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Issue No. 257 Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing investments, and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in and pean Championships in , Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Undersized sterlets are a frequent sight at markets and restaurants around Serbia despite being protected by law. Photo: Dragan Gmizic SERBIA’S APPETITE FOR STERLET DRIVES UNIQUE STURGEON TO THE BRINK The sterlet sturgeon of the outlived the dinosaurs, but can the ancient species survive Serbian appetites and the illegal trade that serves them?

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+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 But, Klacar said, the Alliance is unlikely to emu- stand on Kosovo and the course of EU-mediated late the success of DOS, “especially with its em- negotiations between Vucic and his Kosovo coun- Opposition Bloc phasis on Kosovo”. terpart, Hashim Thaci. “My impression is that 2018 and 2019 are very Jeremic, president of the United Nations Gen- different from 1999 and 2000,” he told BIRN. “What eral Assembly in 2012-13, stated as much when he Serbia’s in Serbia Veers this coalition could do in the short term is to gain said the Alliance’s main policy will be to resist Ko- support of about 20 percent, [of the electorate]” sovo’s bid to join the United Nations. too little to topple the Progressives of President “We must draw a red line and unite against the rule Aleksandar Vucic. of the Progressives, who have started preparing the Appetite Right in Risky Bid [Serbian] public to agree to Kosovo’s UN membership,” RED LINES Jeremic told a party event in Belgrade in early July. The EU has made clear that a deal to finally settle for Sterlet for Power The Alliance for Serbia is the brainchild of for- relations between Serbia and Kosovo, though not mer Belgrade mayor Dragan Djilas. It has garnered necessarily involving Serbian recognition of Kosovo Serbian opposition parties, from centre-left and far the support of the People’s Party of former foreign as a state, is central to Belgrade’s bid to join the bloc. minister Vuk Jeremic and the once-mighty Demo- Drives Unique right, ponder joint, tougher stand on Kosovo issue, cratic Party, formerly headed by Djilas. The Sloga RIVALS OR COLLABORATORS? trade union is also involved, among others. A for- in a risky attempt to topple the ruling Progressives. mal deal is still being negotiated. Political analyst Cvjetan Milivojevic said that Sloga leader Zeljko Veselinovic, who is ru- opposition parties would have little problem Sturgeon to moured to be the first chairman of a rotating Alli- agreeing on the lack of democracy, media free- Filip RUDIC Alliance representatives say about Kosovo is ac- ance presidency, said talks were progressing “bet- dom and the need for free and fair elections. But ceptable for us, but I must get better acquainted ter than anyone could have expected.” He said consensus on Kosovo was more surprising. nascent opposition bloc in Serbia is with their opinions and plans.” Kosovo was an issue on which “consensus has “I notice that they, to my great surprise ... reached the Brink making overtures to right-wing par- The DSS, whose former leader Vojislav Kostu- been reached”, but that it was just one of 30 points agreement on other important topics,” he told BIRN. ties and mulling a more hard-line nica beat Milosevic in a presidential election in of a joint programme still being finalised. One party conspicuous by its absence from the stance on Kosovo, opposing the 2000 as the candidate of a united, 18-party oppo- In recent weeks, party officials and experts Alliance negotiations is the Free Citizens’ Move- Dragan GMIZIC, Iva SAVIC where in the world, with catches de- agreement with Pristina in a bid to sition bloc, has long taken a hard line on Kosovo have indicated the Alliance will likely take a tough ment of former ombudsman Sasa Jankovic. The clining for centuries in the Upper and unseatA the ruling Progressives. and is vehemently opposed to any concessions Movement made clear in April it would not join betted by market Middle Danube and more recently the The prospect of the Alliance for Serbia – so far that would contribute to its further acceptance as any bloc that included the likes of the far-right traders and restau- Lower Danube. centred around several moderate opposition par- an independent state. Dveri and has said it would work to consolidate rant owners, fisher- Overfishing is the main culprit, but ties – broadening its ranks to the likes of the right- Some analysts warn the strategy risks making more liberal, social-democratic groups. men in Serbia are man-made changes to the river have wing Healthy Serbia party, Dveri and the Demo- the Alliance target of criticism and over-estimat- “Many people are not indifferent to what comes flouting restrictions also contributed, particularly since cratic Party of Serbia, DSS, harks back to a coalition ing the importance of Kosovo to voters two dec- What this coalition could [after Vucic],” Jankovic wrote in the Danas daily on the fishing of Dan- the construction of the hydroelectric that took power with the ousting of Slobodan Mi- ades after it broke away in war. do in the short term is to on July 18. Aube sterlet, an investigation by BIRN power plants Iron Gate 1 and 2 on the losevic in 2000, only to quickly fall apart. “They stand the risk of exposure to potential “Will Serbia be nationalistic… or will we live in a civ- shows, threatening the survival of a Danube between Serbia and The Alliance is hardening its stance on Kosovo attacks from the ruling coalition, especially for gain support of about 20 il society that respects and protects national identity unique species of sturgeon prized for in the 1970s and 1980s halted seasonal in opposition to efforts by the European Union to including right-wing parties with dubious records but does not value it above the equality of all?” its meat and caviar. migration from the Black Sea to the up- nudge Serbia towards a binding agreement that on human rights,” said Bojan Klacar, director of the percent [of the electorate]. Milivojevic said the Alliance and Jankovic’s The sterlet has lived in the Danube per course of the river. Sturgeon still mi- may clear the path to a seat at the United Nations Centre for Free Elections and Democracy, CESID. Free Citizens could end up complementing one for more than 200 million years as the grate downstream from that point. for Serbia’s former southern province. Klacar likened the Alliance strategy to that of another and drawing more to the ballot box. only member of the sturgeon family that The river has lost the Atlantic Stur- A meeting of Alliance leaders on Mount Zlati- the Democratic Opposition of Serbia, DOS, which “I don’t think they are competitors,” he said. “It’s does not migrate from the Black Sea. geon, while the Ship Sturgeon is on the bor on July 18 gave an indication of its future di- defeated Milosevic in 2000. Hundreds of thou- a clear situation. In the future elections, a part of For most of the 20th century its num- verge of extinction. The Beluga, the rection. Conservative DSS leader Milos Jovanovic sands took to the streets to demand Milosevic ac- Bojan Klacar the (hitherto no-show) votes would go to the Alli- bers were in decline; classified as ‘vul- Russian Sturgeon and the Starry Stur- attended, and told media the next day: “What the cept the result, ending his rule. CeSID ance and part to the Movement.” nerable’. Conservation efforts in some geon are no longer present in the Upper countries along the Danube saw sterlet and Middle Danube. numbers recover from the 1980s on- That has left the sterlet, the only non- wards, but overfishing persists in Serbia, migratory sturgeon, as the most com- hurting the sterlet’s ability to reproduce mon sturgeon in the river; even then, Removal of illegal nets used by poachers. Photo: Dragan Gmizic and threatening with environmentalists the 20th century saw the sterlet popu- say are potentially “unthinkable” conse- lation also fall by about 70 per cent, ac- fishermen frequently come to his res- in the areas under its control for 2018 efforts were limited by a lack of person- quences for the river . cording to the International Union for taurant, Baracka, offering illegal catch. and 2019. nel and weak deterrent given the mild Unlike , Romania, and the Conservation of Nature, IUCN. “The price poachers offer is always Serbia’s Assistant Minister of Environ- punishment dished out by the courts. , Serbia has stopped short of a According to official statistics from lower than the price offered by legal mental Protection, Jasmina Jovic, told According to data provided by the blanket ban on the fishing of sterlet and Serbia’s Ministry of Environmental Pro- fish farms or by those fishermen who BIRN that the ministry supported the Ministry of Environmental Protection, other sturgeon species. Since 2005 in Ser- tection, the quantity of sterlet caught in have a licence,” he told BIRN. “Many res- step taken by Srbijasume and indicated in 2017 Serbia’s notoriously over-loaded bia, sterlet fishing is banned only during Serbia has been steadily falling, from taurants buy illegally-caught fish and that a nationwide ban was possible. and inefficient courts processed only the March-June breeding season and all roughly 22.5 tonnes in 2011 to nine take the risk.” “Every request that takes into consid- 8.5 per cent of all reported offences. In year round for specimens smaller than tonnes in 2017. eration that protection of the environ- the majority of those cases where the 40 cm so as to allow them to reproduce. But conservationists say the num- PROTECTING PROFITS ment, meaning wild species and their defendant was found guilty, they were BIRN reporters, however, have found bers do not reflect the scale of poaching habitats, is justified because it initiates handed fines of between just 5,000 and fresh sterlet on sale in markets and res- in the country. Illegal fishermen often resort to vio- the process of re-evaluating the exist- 10,000 dinars (€40-80), a small price to taurants during the breeding months Serbia’s Ministry of Agriculture says lence to protect their profits, according ing measures of protection and sustain- pay given how much a fisherman can ex- in the capital Belgrade and the Danube some 5,000 tonnes of fish in total are to state fisheries inspectors. able use, in this case that of sterlet, and pect to earn from a decent sterlet catch. river towns of , Backa Palanka caught each year and the Ministry of Several inspectors, who spoke to establishing new protection measures A rapid decline in sterlet numbers and Smederevo, with many of the fish Environmental Protection estimates BIRN on condition of anonymity, said such as a ban on fishing,” Jovic said in a could impoverish its genetic diversity, on offer smaller than 40 cm. that poaching accounts for some 20 to they experienced verbal and physical written response. the so-called ‘bottleneck’ phenome- Costing between 10 and 15 euros per 30 per cent. But environmental activ- abuse on a daily basis, with each saying “The Ministry of Environmental Pro- non, bringing the species one step clos- kilogram, the sterlet represents a valu- ists and fishermen believe the illegal they had been attacked with a weapon tection plans to conduct an analysis of er to extinction. able catch for fishermen in a country fishing industry is in fact double the at least once. They never patrol alone at all the facts and measures regarding Dr Gorcin Cvijanovic, an expert in where the average monthly income af- size of the registered catch, at some night. the preservation and sustainable use evolutionary biology, genetics and ter tax is roughly 450 euros. 10,000 tonnes. “Almost anyone in the villages by the of sterlet.” ecology at the , In June, the World Wildlife Fund The WWF and the United Fisher- river could be an illegal fisherman,” one said that while there was no reliable ev- (WWF) in Serbia said it had become men of Serbia, an association of fisher- inspector told BIRN. ENFORCEMENT idence yet of such a ‘bottleneck’, “there “impossible for the species to repro- men, said in December last year that “The poor economic situation push- is no doubt that fishing pressure on this duce and sustain consistent numbers” the restrictions on sterlet fishing were es many men to the riverbank because Any ban, however, would have to be species is extremely strong and that a and called for a complete, five-year ban frequently flouted and that the fish that is the easiest way to feed a family. enforced. permanent ban on fishing should be in Serbia on all sterlet fishing. usually ended up in restaurants, where But some of them turn it into big busi- Radu Suciu, head of the Sturgeon Re- introduced.” “If poaching continues at this level, fisheries inspectors of the Ministry of ness: they are very well organised and search Group at the Danube Delta Na- Cvijanovic said breeding locations the sterlet could become extinct in Ser- Environmental Protection are unable armed.” tional Institute of Tulcea in Romania, should be placed under “strict protec- bia,” said Professor Branko Miljanovic, to conduct checks. In March 2017, when BIRN reporters said that despite a total ban on sturgeon tion”. an ichthyologist from the University of BIRN found photos on the joined a river patrol 20 km upstream of fishing in Bulgaria and Romania, the Otherwise, the disappearance of the Novi Sad. pages of at least seven restaurants offer- Novi Sad, inspectors found 200 metres recovery in the population has been sterlet from the Danube could have far- “If one species from the river food ing undersized sterlet, which, accord- of unmarked, illegal fishing nets in the weaker than expected due to lax en- reaching consequences for “clean wa- chain disappears – and the sterlet is in ing to Dr Mirjana Lenhardt of the Insti- waters near the Beocin cement factory. forcement. ter, air, food and climatic conditions,” the middle of that chain – the conse- tute for Biological Research, are caught When they eventually caught up Professor Miljanovic, of the Univer- said Duska Dimovic, Serbia Programme quences for the whole ecosystem are deliberately by fishermen because with the culprits, they discovered sev- sity of Novi Sad, told BIRN that in Serbia Manager at the WWF. unthinkable.” they are preferred by diners. Sterlet is eral tonnes of illegally caught sterlet. the existing laws could already cut ille- “That is why it is necessary to im- Serbia’s Assistant Minister of Envi- commonly known in Serbia as ‘Danube In 2016, Serbia’s northern neighbour gal fishing if they were enforced. prove the laws that regulate the pro- ronmental Protection, Jasmina Jovic, snacks’. Hungary joined Ukraine, Romania and “Law enforcement could reduce il- tection of the fish stock, strengthen the told BIRN that the situation was under “This is a fish for kings and queens,” Bulgaria in banning the fishing of stur- legal fishing of the sterlet by hindering work of inspection services, change the review and a nationwide ban possible. said Ivica Kovac, a chef and restaurant- geon. their open sale,” he said. way we consume fish so that it is sus- owner in the northern Serbian town This June, Serbia took a small step However, in a report last year, the en- tainable, and preserve healthy fish in STURGEON UNDER SIEGE of . “Sterlet live in deep fresh in that direction when Srbijasume, forcement division of the Ministry of healthy rivers.” water, so in every bite you can taste a the state agency that manages public Environmental Protection and the pub- Highly sensitive to changes in their unique mix of fish, shellfish and .” forests and roughly 100 kilometres of lic enterprises of Voda and This story was produced as part of the habitat, the sturgeon is regarded as the Kovac, who has written three cook- Serbia’s 588-km stretch of the Danube, Vojvodinasume, which manage the BIRN Summer School of Investigative most endangered species of fish any- books on river fish specialities, said announced a total ban on sterlet fishing largest fishing areas in Serbia, said their Reporting programme. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Much Loved Tourist Train Gets th New Departure 57 October Salon The popular “Romantika” tourist The Road train has a new departure point: Top- to Bring Star Artists cider Station, after Belgrade’s central railway station officially closed on July 1. The train, which transports to Belgrade Less passengers in a 1930s style puffing steam train, runs from Belgrade to in brief Belgrade The legendary and content, the extraordinary richness the historic town of of contemporary artistic expression,” the in Vojvodina. The next ride is on July Japanese artist and 28, starting at 9:20am, and returns curators said. Travelled: to the capital at 6pm. Return ticket activist is showing There will be a total of 68 local, regional costs from 308 to 444 dinars [around her work at this year’s and international artists. Among them is 2.6 to 3.8 euros] depending on what October Salon, which Yoko Ono, the famous 85-year-old Japa- class carriage you choose. You can nese experimental and avant-garde artist American even take your bicycle, free of charge. is focusing on diversity and a peace activist, who was also the sec- Train rides to Sremski Karlovci take and the ‘richness of ond wife of ’ John Lennon. place every last Saturday of the Ono’s installation, “Arising”, showcases month. For more information visit contemporary artistic www.zeleznicesrbije.com/turisticki- verbal testimonies and photographs of Students in voz-romantika. expression.’ eyes of women who have suffered gender violence. Ono also called on women from Lack of Public Transport Ivana NIKOLIC all over the world, including Serbia, to par- Drivers ‘Dangerous’ ticipate by sending their personal stories. th Belgrade he 57 October Salon, Serbia’s “Write a statement about any sort of vio- Media reports say a total of 218 leading contemporary arts re- lence you suffered as a woman. Send a pho- drivers left city’s Public Transport view, opens on September 15 and to of your eyes and your story,” Ono said. that there had been a war here, two dec- Company, GSP, last year, and another T Yoko Ono will be one of the star artists to visit Belgrade for the Salon. Photo: UN photo / Mark Garten While most 101 quit from January to April 2018. lasts until October 28, at several locations Apart from Ono, there will be a lot of ades ago. It seemed they had mistaken Trade union representatives say the across the city: the Cultural Centre of Bel- renowned artists such as Takashi Muraka- tenberg, Darka Radosavljevic and Nebojsa to prepare… and by giving more money for American Serbia for Syria. GSP is short of more than 200 new grade, Belgrade City Museum, the Serbian mi, Olafur Eliasson, Anselm Kiefer, Helen Vilic, Rene Block, Lorand Hegyi, Bojana a bi-annual concept of the salon,” Vladan “I’d heard of the region, but only be- drivers, as all the current drivers now Academy of Sciences and Arts, U10 Gal- Marten, Larry Bell, as well as Serbian ones, Pejic, Branislava Andjelkovic, Johan Pous- Vukosavljevic, former Belgrade cultural students looking to cause I read a book about the siege of work more hours than the law pre- lery and Remont Gallery. such as Ivan Grubanov, Marija Calic and sete and Celia Prado, Galit Eilat and Alenka secretariat and Serbia’s current Culture during my freshman year of scribes. “Ever since the working hours This year’s slogan is “The Marvellous Vladimir Velickovic, to name but a few. Gregoric, Branislav Dimitrijevic and Mika Minister, said in October 2014. spend a semester high school,” Maeve Rogers, a gradu- were prolonged from seven to eight Cacophony” and according to the curators The city of Belgrade established the Hannula, Red Min(e)d, Nicolaus Schaf- The decision sparked an outcry among ate from Wooster College in Ohio, said ... there have been more accidents, Gunnar B. Kvaran and Danielle Kvaran, the October Salon in 1960 as a local exhibition hausen and Vanessa Joan Muller. art historians, culture experts and many abroad opt for when asked what she knew of the Bal- because the drivers are exhausted. Salon “will explore worldwide artistic pro- of the best fine art works. The festival has The October Salon was held annually October Salon team members, who said the kans before attending the SIT Peace Mortality rates and the number of professional diseases have increased duction, looking into diverse art scenes since hosted many prominent artists and until 2014, but then Belgrade's authorities move broke a decades-long tradition and London, and Conflict Studies programme in the as colleagues often work more than and different generations of living artists”. curators after becoming an international decided to hold the exhibition every two did not represent the salon’s core values. . “That was my only context for 40 hours a week,” Nikola Antic, from “It will bring together a constellation of event in 2005. years to improve the quality. For more information about the exhibi- or Barcelona, the region.” the SOS trade union, told the media. works that express, through their forms, Among the internationally recognised “We are ready to ensure [improved qual- tions and authors, visit www.oktobarskisa- structures, materials, techniques, devices artists who have appeared are Anda Rot- ity] by giving more time [to the organisers] lon.org. Belgrade offers a LURE OF THE UNKNOWN City to Start Phasing Out rich and rewarding Trolley Buses A book here, a story there and maybe even a family member who lived in City authorities say that more than 80 Belgrade to Name Street After Zionism Founder Herzl experience for the trolley buses operating seven lines will Belgrade when it was still be replaced by electric buses in the more adventurous. are some of the only academic and per- next few years. Goran Vesic, the Dep- A street in to the historical relations between the ily suffered a tragic loss on February Herzl now rejected his early ideas sonal connections students have with uty , has said that in two countries and two peoples that 7, 1878, when Theodor’s older sister about Jewish emancipation and as- Alexis TRAUSSI the Balkans. two years’ time, the city will purchase the Belgrade go back longer than 25 years of official Pauline suddenly died of typhus. After similation and came to believe that the The wars of the 1990s are not a regu- 80 electric buses, which will add to the diplomatic relations.” her death, the family moved to , Jews must leave Europe and have their or many students wonder- lar part of our academic learning. We current fleet of five operating under municipality of Andrea Radulovic, head of the city’s where young Theodor studied law. own land. He became convinced that ing which college to attend may hear about the Balkans in college, the name of Eko 1 and connecting commission for monuments and He at first became a member of the the only way for Jews to escape anti- in the United States, the op- but only then as a one hour class des- and Belville. “The is to be purchase of electric buses is especially named after the names of squares and streets, said the German nationalist organization Albia, Semitism was by the establishment of tions offered for a semester tined to be forgotten by the time gradu- important because they will replace commission had accepted the Israeli which had the motto Ehre, Freiheit, a Jewish state. abroad can sway them into ation rolls around. initiative back in September 2017. Vaterland, “Honour, Freedom, Father- His ideas spread rapidly, soon at- Fchoosing one school over another. For those who do travel to Belgrade the trolleys,” Vesic said, adding that father of the modern some other big cities, such as , “Herzl was born ... in a secular Jewish land” – but later resigned in protest at tracting international attention. Seen by some as little more than to study, it is the unknown that prob- have the same plans. Belgrade’s trolley Zionist movement. family originating from nowadays the organization’s anti-Semitism. His most important book, Der a three-month vacation, the study ably lures them. buses first saw the light of day at the Zemun ... The house of the Herzl family His legal studies at the universities of Judenstaat (The State of the Jews), abroad programme comes with a pleth- “It’s someplace not many people I city’s May Day parade in 1947. Ivana NIKOLIC was built in 1910 and still stands in the Vienna and Salzburg did not last long. published in February 1896, called for ora of stereotypes – drunk students on know from the US have gone to and I centre of Zemun,” Radulovic informed He soon devoted himself to journalism the Jewish people to leave Europe, the beach, intoxicated students yelling also wanted to go somewhere to study Next Half-Marathon Set for September elgrade City Assembly on July the assembly on July 23. and literature, working as the Paris cor- preferably for their historic homeland in European clubs, boozy picnics in abroad in a region I had not previously 23 agreed to name Prilaz, a In addition to the family's home, respondent for the Viennese newspa- of Palestine. famous parks and inebriated students visited,” said Andi Regalbuto, who at- The second Belgrade half marathon Bstreet in the Zemun area, after the graves of Herzl’s grandparents lie per Neue Freie Presse and sometimes Herzl was also the chairman of the ruining the lives of the locals. You get tended the same programme as Rogers. will take place on Sunday, Septem- Theodor Herzl, whose grandparents in the Jewish section of Zemun’s old also visiting London and . first Zionist Congress, which took place the picture. Chitra Balakrishnan, who spent two ber 30, at 10am, at the intersection and father lived in Zemun, which back cemetery. He also wrote several comedies and in Basel, Switzerland. Throughout Another common belief is that most months studying in the Balkans, said: of Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra and in the 19th century was part of the Habs- Herzl was born on May 2, 1860, in the dramas. his life he promoted his Zionist ideas, students who opt to hit the road have “I’ve never been anywhere in Europe Resavska, the organisers have an- burg Empire. Jewish quarter of Pest, later Budapest, According to some sources, Herzl believing that at some point in the 20th only the ‘Big Three’ destinations in that wasn’t a huge tourist attraction.” nounced. There will be two races, The initiative to honour Herzl, who in Hungary, and died on July 3, 1904, in first embraced Zionist ideas after the century, a Jewish state would finally mind: London, Paris and Barcelona. But while the more adventurous stu- covering 10 km and on 21 km, popu- was also a journalist and a playwright, Reichenau an der Rax, a town in Lower “Dreyfus affair”, in which a Jewish be born – earning him the subsequent They are accessible, they have featured dents might see it as exotic, Belgrade larly known as “Belgrade 10” and Students are encouraged to independently explore Belgrade’s sights. Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Traussi “Belgrade 21”. For more information came from the Israeli embassy in Austria. French army captain was unjustly nickname “Visionary of the State”. His on many a big screen and television offers only a few study abroad op- about registration, which is already Serbia because, it said, “Herzl’s origins His father, Jakob, was born in Zemun convicted of spying for . The remains were moved from Austria to and, most likely, they are full of people tions, and the rest of Serbia fewer still. possible, see: www.bgdmarathon.org/ are connected to Zemun and that but moved to Pest where he became a incident was widely seen as revealing Jerusalem in 1949, soon after the state who speak English, a major draw for A simple Google search produces just peace and conflict in the Balkans for economic status, I still feel like I live in a their eyes to the world around them. halfmarathon-registration.aspx. [naming a street after him] would point successful businessman. The fam- the depths of anti-Semitism in . of Israel was established. American students short on foreign a handful of programmes. They speak, hours and hours now. I love that they bubble,” she said. “I think that studying abroad can cre- languages. however, to what is most important to a include as much experiential learning “Being in Belgrade has made me ate more globally-minded people, and There is some truth to the notion of city or place. as possible; I know the positive impact even more aware of this… because I’m I wanted the opportunity to become the Big Three: according to the NAFSA The Peace and Conflict Studies pro- that can have on someone’s learning surrounded by people who live in the one,” said Rogers. “I was lucky enough Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Association of International Educators, gramme of the School for International experience.” city rather than the people who were to have the opportunity made available +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] in a report on students who studied Training (SIT) focuses on “peacebuild- handpicked by my college.” to me and I couldn’t pass it up.” Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight abroad in 2015-16, “an overwhelming ing, post-conflict transformation, and HOME AWAY FROM HOME Studying in Serbia offers an expe- Regalbuto said she had made friends majority of U.S. study abroad takes the impact of international interven- rience for students who tend to up- she would be sure to visit again. place in Europe, with 40 percent of stu- tion on state building, human rights, Another aspect of experiential learn- end the usual stereotypes regarding “I’m very grateful for my time in Bel- dents studying in just five countries, the and transitional justice in the Balkans” ing is a homestay, which is exactly what Americans. They believe that studying grade,” she said. “I miss Belgrade and I HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU , , Spain, France through experiential learning. it says: students stay at the homes of lo- abroad, no matter the country, opens will surely find my way back soon.” Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL and Germany.” Students work not only in the class- cal Belgraders who, in turn, help show Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 Where does that leave the rest of room in Belgrade but travel to the Bos- them around the city, provide a roof HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Europe and a city like Belgrade, which nian capital Sarajevo and Kosovo’s Pris- over their head and give them a feeling ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Address: 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU boasts a rich culture and history, a tina too, in order to get a comparative of family far from home. ONCE ””, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” RESTAURANT DVA JELENA growing tourism industry and which is take on post-conflict studies. SIT sees the homestay as the back- Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT KOVAČ CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 practically unknown to Americans? “Sitting in a classroom and reading bone of their programmes around the Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 modern ethno restaurant Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF Sadly enough, many students do not about something is one thing, but with world, and students rave about it. Address: , Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE even know where, or, possibly, what this programme I was able to learn “I’ve enjoyed my homestay a lot be- Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 Serbia is. about things and then see them, or cause it’s given me a much better idea Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST “Oh… I heard it was really cold there,” meet people who were from the region of what life is like in Belgrade,” said MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA one student remarked when I said I was and could provide a better understand- Balakrishnan. “It makes me feel like I’m HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 going to study in Serbia. It took me a ing than I ever could have gotten from a living here rather than only visiting or Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 moment to realise she thought I was go- classroom in Ohio,” said Rogers. touring.” ing to Siberia. Regalbuto agreed: “I learned so, so “Although my college campus tries Another student once asked me if much in such a short period of time,” to create a diverse student body in Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com civil war was raging. They didn’t know she said. “It’s incredible. I speak about terms of genders, ethnicities, and socio- 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT COMMENT My Small, Thin Serbian Wedding

one of the most important days of our In a culture lives? Hell no! Last but not least – money. If I had famous for 'the thousands of euros to spend on some- thing, it definitely would not be on a bigger the better', svadba for 300 people. It would be something exotic and sunny, with as I opted for a few people around as possible. Now, finally, let me tell you how I did it. tiny wedding I'd always dreamed of getting mar- ried in the tiny little church in Herceg ceremony Novi's Old Town. I'd always dreamed of an exclusively small number of guests, without a consisting of me, my future husband and our best men. (I didn't know I would white dress, the have a one-year-old son for that occa- sion!) And I'd always dreamed of a wed- obligatory 300- ding lunch at the Gradska Kafana res- taurant, whose huge balcony overlooks plus guests – and the beach where I learnt to swim and the city where I learned what a family loss is. all the other I did it exactly as I had dreamt it. Or similarly. There were ten of us. Apart from Balkan wedding my husband, our son and I, there were: my husband's best man with his wife and necessities. daughter, my best man, my brother, my sister-in-law and our best friend. Ivana NIKOLIC No kissing 300 people for 900 times, no worrying about my make-up (ac- 've always loved weddings – our tually I didn't have time to do it prop- Serbian and Balkan-style ones, erly because we were late for the cer- kicking off at dawn and lasting un- emony), no worrying about whether til the dawn next day, if not longer. I would ruin my white wedding dress Whoever's been to Serbia or any- with red wine (because luckily I didn't Iwhere else in the Balkans, and has had a have a proper wedding dress which I chance to attend a wedding or svadba, am not a fan of, I wore a dress from my Lack of Cash Stifles knows what I'm talking about. 2014 graduation party instead). As for those who have never experi- Although large weddings are a Serbian tradition, intimate weddings are often more enjoyable for the bride and the groom. Photo: Courtesy of Ivana Nikolic Most importantly, no months of plan- enced it, let me try to describe it. tears as well. Bride cries, her mother women, and legend has it that the one Why? ning ahead of the trip. It was Wednes- There are a bunch of different cus- cries, her father cries. She's leaving her who catches the bouquet will be the Firstly, it is exhausting. day, June 6, when we agreed to rent Serbia’s Innovation toms, depending on in which part of the parents' nest. next one to marry. Secondly, it requires planning at a van and leave for Montenegro on country you are. What is more or less The next stop is a registrar at the local We've now reached around 3pm, least a year before the actual date and Friday, June 9. So, on Thursday, June the same, however, is this: the bride's municipality, where the future spouses the time when the svatovi – Serbian for I deeply hate planning anything. What 7, I called the church in Herceg Novi guests gather at her parents' house at will finally say "yes" to each other, caus- wedding guests – go to a restaurant for if something happens unexpectedly, and arranged our wedding as well as 9 or 10 in the morning, and so do the ing another avalanche of tears, this time the central party, where they will most such as storms, deaths or little acci- our son's baptism for June 10. Then we Drive groom's. (For all the female guests, this from a wider audience (but most com- probably stay until the morning hours. dents such as a broken leg? had a day to find proper wedding rings. is preceded by visits to the hairdress- monly from mom, dad, sisters, aunties We should not forget another im- Thirdly, the number of people at- The vendor at the jewellery store said Although start-up pitch events and co-working spaces are flourishing in Belgrade, scarce funding still remains an issue. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic er's as well as make-up artists). A lot of and grannies). After they kiss and sign portant point – the number of guests, tending. If we have, let's say 300 he had never had future newlyweds rakija, different snacks and loud music, wedding papers, the newlyweds stand which is usually from around 300 up- guests, which is the average for a Ser- coming one day before a wedding; ap- But while the figures are great, so are RED TAPE work and have to provide company the Fund's alumni in finding additional preferably playing live, are essentials. next to the registrar's table, so that each wards (by this point I assume you un- bian svadba, I will have to kiss and parently the purchase of wedding rings The figures for the challenges to further growth. stamps." funding to development their products At around noon, the groom and his and every person can come, kiss them derstand I am talking about an average be kissed 900 times (don't forget that also requires planning and fitting! Serbia’s tech The latest edition of the Global In- Innovation in Serbia is a hot topic, One model of direct involvement beyond the early stages. This forces guests leave the house party for the on the cheeks three times and say "con- wedding). we Serbs kiss three times). I will have As for those 300 guests, none of novation Index, published this month, thanks to targeted government policies from the state that was welcomed by many Serbian entrepreneurs to seek bride's place, where he and his brother grats!" But, even though I do love attending to freeze a smile and pray to God my them even knew we were getting mar- sector look great, noted the difficulty small Serbian and a growing number of private cen- the entrepreneurial community in Ser- backing in Sofia, London or . or a best man are supposed to "buy" her After the registrar, some couples svadbas, I have never ever dreamed of make-up withstands all those lips and ried. I only posted the photos after companies have in obtaining loans, tres for IT and entrepreneurship like bia was a grant programme of the Ser- One local option is the Western from her brothers or cousins. As soon go to church for a religious ceremony, getting married like that myself. It is one face movements. More importantly, the ceremonies. Why should anyone but so do the the low intensity of local competition, StartIt and Impact Hub. bian Innovation Fund. Balkans Enterprise Development & as the trade is done, party number two lasting from half-an-hour to more than thing to be a guest or a simple observer why so many people? Do they really know that? I strongly believe a wedding low levels of high-tech imports and Serbia can already boast a few IT Already in its fifth cycle since 2012, Innovation Facility, launched by the starts at the bride's place, again with lots an hour. And then, of course, the bride and another completely to be the main all care about us? Do we really want should be as small and intimate as pos- challenges to meagre spending on digital technol- champions, such as Nordeus, Fishing- and with the sixth cycle closing soon, European Investment Fund, European of rakija and music, but this time with throws her wedding flowers to the character of the show. or need all of them to be present for sible, not vice versa, as my culture has it. ogy. Booker, Trilateral and Seven Bridges the programme provides up to 80,000 Investment Bank and the European further growth. Despite its potential, Serbia spends Genomics. The industry, however, con- euros to roughly 20 innovative Serbian- Union, which provides capital to high- relatively little on Research & Develop- tinues to be dominated by outsourcing owned micro or small businesses eve- potential local businesses. Srdjan GARCEVIC ment as a proportion of its GDP – just 0.9 companies lured to Serbia by the low ry year. Early-stage start-ups have been A lack of funding, Vojvodic warned, per cent in 2017, compared to 4.25 per wages paid to programmers. the main beneficiaries. often conspires with a risk-averse Published by ddressing business cent in Israel, 2.75 per cent in Finland The public and private players may The winning projects are chosen by mindset in Serbia to stifle even the most leaders at this year's and 2 per cent in fellow former Yugo- differ occasionally on how to develop an independent panel of foreign and determined innovators. Business Fo- slav republic . the sector, most notably over govern- Serbian experts. "In some industries, like Israel, the rum – Serbia's Davos The Index – compiled by Cornell Uni- ment subsidies to attract Continental's While most of the recipients so far US or Scandinavia, failure is not treated – Prime Minister Ana versity, the INSEAD graduate business R&D centre to the second city of Novi have come from the IT industry, the pro- as the worst thing in the world, but as a BrnabicA stressed that Serbia needed school and the UN's World Intellectual Sad this year, but there are many points gramme also covers a wide range of pro- learning mechanism," he said. an economy "based on innovation, not Property Organisation – ranked Serbia of agreement. jects and organisations from across Serbia "Here, that mind-set is missing, but also just investment". 55 out of 126 countries in terms of inno- Nevenka Rangelov, an editor at and across different fields, including bio- due to relative financial scarcity people It was a statement that reflected her vation performance, behind regional StartIt, which promotes entrepreneur- technology, construction and robotics. here don't have the luxury of failing re- government's growing focus on entre- peers Slovenia (30), Bulgaria (37), Croa- ship particularly in information and peatedly and then building a multi-mil- A LEADING PROVIDER OF NEWS AND ANALYSIS IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE preneurship and innovation – not just tia (41), Greece (42) and Montenegro communications industry under- INSTILLING THE lion-dollar company at the sixth attempt." big-ticket foreign investments – as a (52), though Serbia did feature among scored the value of public programmes ENTREPRENEURIAL But the talent is there, he said. way to ensure sustainable growth, in- 20 countries where innovation output in Serbia to boost IT education, from MIND-SET "Recently the Fund's expert team spired by the vibrant tech-scenes that outperforms a country's development courses to retrain workers to the intro- concluded that if we had the resources have helped transform the economies level. duction of programming classes for The Innovation Fund provides business we could finance at least twice as many for in-depth analysis, investigative reports, of Israel, Estonia, Finland and other in- "The greatest obstacle for innovators schoolchildren from the age of 11. training to help prepare start-ups for the projects based solely on their qual- features, interviews, commentary and profileson the latest novation nations. is the lack of money and easily avail- Such initiatives will help address a global market, but Vojvodic said its great- ity. There are more than enough qual- business and political headlines. With growth rates for the IT indus- able capital," said Vladimir Vojvodic, shortage of skilled IT workers in Serbia, est value was in the finance it provides to ity candidates. What's missing is a suf- try of some 20 per cent annually since a senior associate at the government- she said. But government regulation, Serbia's cash-strapped innovators. ficient amount of money." 2016, there is hope. founded Serbian Innovation Fund, the lack of a fully independent judici- Even with such grants and an increase The sector now accounts for about which provides grants to innovative ary and suffocating red tape were sti- in private initiatives, Vojvodic said, there 10 per cent of Serbian GDP and exports micro or small businesses. fling growth, Rangelov warned. is still not enough cash to go around for Srdjan Garcevic is a consultant, have already exceeded €1 billion this "That is crucial in the early stages of "We need a bureaucracy that is more Serbia's blossoming IT industry. writer and the host of Pokretaci podcast OTHER BIRN SERVICES: year, according to Finance Minister commercially-minded technological attuned to the needs of entrepreneurs, He highlighted the lack a venture which promotes entrepreneurship in the Sinisa Mali. development," he told BIRN. so that they don't choke on the paper- capital scene in Serbia as an obstacle to Serbia. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 9 REGION FACES Macedonia’s About town with… The Trials of Growing Western ADRIANA ESPINOSA JANKOVIC up Serbian Abroad Espinosa Jankovic is the owner of Wolf Yoga Company, Belgrade’s first hot yoga Belgrade-born but Progress studio in Dorcol. Born in Mexico City, she moved to Belgrade Australia-raised 18 months ago. She lives in Vracar, together with her Sofija Stefanovic Leaves Russia two dogs, Romeo and Francesco. has delighted read- MORNING ers with her mem- Dismayed oir of growing up I like to wake up early, at around six. The first Greece-based Russian businessman as ‘the Serbian girl’ thing I do is make some As Macedonia Ivan Savvidi – who some media named coffee, take the dogs for a as one such financier of trouble – later in Australia – and walk and have a small breakfast. moves closer denied the allegations. Afterwards, I go to Wolf Yoga or Pilates 23 for an as the ‘Aussie kid’ Russia also rubbished the reports active morning class. Our favourite daily morning towards NATO as idle speculation. On July 18, Foreign activity is going to Kalenic Pijaca, the best market in Serbia. Ministry spokesperson Maria Zakharo- and the EU, va called the allegations “groundless”, of Belgrade. They have everything you need: from and designed to “fuel anti-Russian sen- fresh fish and fruits to a variety of nuts and plants. relations with timent”. And everyone is so friendly there! Sometimes I Nina PANTELIC “Such statements bring into question get another coffee at Przionica [Dobracina 59], a Moscow have the sincerity of the Macedonian gov- nice and hidden coffee-roasting place, or at Coffee hough it sounds premature ernment’s wish to build friendly rela- Dream [various]. Their muffins are great. to write a book of memoirs in taken a nosedive tions with the Russian Federation,” the your mid-thirties, such is not the – with more Russian embassy in stated a day On a lazy Sunday morning, I like to have breakfast Tcase for Belgrade-born, Austral- earlier. at one of the many cosy restaurants that Vracar ian-raised Sofija Stefanovic, whose life is In fact, Macedonia does want friend- has to offer. There is a cute place called Marenda packed to the brim with stories of growing trouble expected ly relations with Russia – but believes [Skerliceva 30] that I often go to, and Smokvica up in two very different cultures. Moscow should accept that there is no [various] is always a good option as well. Recently Her first encounter with life Down Under ahead. alternative for Macedonia to joining I discovered Homa Bistro [Nevesinjska 11]. They came at the tender age of five, when her NATO and EU, Zaev responded. have a breakfast buffet during the weekends that father, who worked in tech, became part of Sinisa-Jakov MARUSIC He insisted that he had only been is cheap and very tasty. the brain drain after obtaining an Austral- passing on Macedonian police findings, ian visa in 1988. ussian attempts to pre- after they had detained several partici- In this pre-internet era, the family's AFTERNOON Sofija Stefanovic now calls New York home, but still enjoys Photo: Kat Burdick vent Macedonia’s rapid pants in violent protests in front of Mac- knowledge of the continent was more or “Yugo” films, music and food. progress towards NATO edonia’s parliament in June 17. less limited to Crocodile Dundee and to During the afternoon, I usually go to the yoga membership and the start Before this exchange, Macedonia brochures from the Australian embassy. The 1990s were a turbulent time for an ambitious project intending to explain studio to do some administrative tasks and meet of EU accession talks will annoyed Russia in March when it ex- While Stefanovic's father already had a Yugoslavs everywhere, both at home and Yugoslavia's troubled history in under ten up with the manager. Walter [Strahinjica Bana Rlikely increase in the run-up to the cru- pelled an unnamed Russian diplomat gut feeling about the impending wars in the abroad. And in a place as far away as Aus- minutes. cial referendum on the country’s agree- out of solidarity with Britain over the 57] is just around the corner, so I often go there former Yugoslavia, her mother did not. She tralia, complex situations and coverage of She adds voice-over narration to footage ment with Greece, observers say. Skripal poisoning scandal. for lunch, for some cevapi, kajmak and a sopska was less keen on moving to the other side the wars in Yugoslavia were often reduced of herself at the age of two on Belgrade's They say Russia may try to use the The government in Skopje also said salad on the side. Afterwards, I pick up the dogs at of the world, which she viewed as terrible, to sound bites. Boulevard of Revolution, posing on the sensitive mood in Macedonia, where its expulsion was also based on evi- home and take them for a long walk, for example and impossibly far away. A common response to discovering that hood of her parents' red Fiat, stating dra- voters have to support changing the dence that he – or she – had tried to ob- through Tasmajdan park. Fast forward a bit, and all four Ste- Stefanovic was Serbian was: "Oh, so you're matically that she was born in Belgrade, country’s name to solidify the country’s tain classified information. fanovic's, including Sofija's younger sister, one of the bad guys." and plans on dying there. Euro-Atlantic prospects – stirring up na- Moscow threatened retaliatory ac- When I don’t have to work that evening, I often had transitioned to Australia. Although Australia is a land made up of And, yet, Stefanovic recognizes that, after tionalist and anti-Western resentment. tion, and again urged Macedonia not end up at Pampour Bar [Njegoseva 28]. This is Stefanovic recalls several moments of foreigners, several-generational Austral- so many years in Australia, English already While few experts believe Russia to to join NATO, insisting it would harm my favourite place for a glass of wine. The women culture clash that stand out: "I remember ians often know little about ex-Yugoslavs, comes easier to her than her native Serbian. be in any position to stop Macedonia’s relations with Moscow and the region’s that work there are very sweet, and the service my mother being overwhelmed at the seeing "Yugos", as they're commonly The rest of her book is a mélange of integration into Euro-Atlantic struc- stability. and atmosphere are excellent. Another great supermarket. WHY were there so many known, just as "immigrants", and choosing memories, told as she lived them. tures, they still advise caution – not- Russian ambassador Oleg Scerbak, place for wine is Pastis Bistro [Strahinjica Bana products? Hundreds of different yogurts to to remain ignorant about their culture. From attempting to create a Belgrade ing that harsh statements and moves in March 29, noted more ominously 52b]. I order red, white or rosé, depending on the choose from. She hated it." Others know several ex-Yugos person- version of the Baby-Sitters Club, to hilarious from either side could worsen already that, in case of a war between Russia Moscow-Skopje relations are strained after PM Zaev, accused a Russian-linked Greek Photo: AP Photo/ Boris Grdanoski Culinary variety and diversity often ally and, based on these interactions and but awkward language misunderstandings businessman of trying to incite protests in Macedonia. temperature and time of the day. strained relations and hinder econom- and NATO, Macedonia would now be plays a part in those first anecdotes of experiences, associate the Balkan nations with her mother, Stefanovic's book strikes ic cooperation. seen as a legitimate target. strongly against the deal, deeming it a all counts and are our protectors,” Pen- immigrant encounters. At one point, Ste- with everything from cevapcici to sporting an emotional chord with anybody from ex- IMPORTANT NOT TO ALIENATE I love to hang out in my own neighbourhood, but Skopje-based political analyst and national capitulation. darovski added. A MAJOR TRADE PARTNER fanovic's mother is horrified to discover, on heroes to – or to the Yugoslav Yugoslavia who has ever lived in the "West." on my days off, I like to explore other parts of town former Moscow correspondent Mirce PLAYING ON NATIONALIST While VMRO DPMNE insists it is a He says that this propaganda reso- purchasing parsley for chicken soup, that wars themselves. These days she calls as well. If the weather is nice, I go to Zemunski Adamcevski says relations with Russia FEARS ABOUT ALBANIANS pro-Western party, some of the other, nates especially strongly among right- Economic observers, meanwhile, Australians like to perfume their food (she Stefanovic points out that, like many im- home, but remains a proud representative Kej to enjoy the view, river breeze, and some ice will only get worse in the short term, be- smaller groups that oppose the deal do wing Macedonians, even though the point out that while Macedonia’s top later found out that the parsley was actu- migrant minorities, "Yugos" struggle with of her Serbian culture. She enjoys Yugo cream. My dogs like to walk around there, too, but fore they improve. After a decade of gridlock caused not hide their preference for close ties main right-wing VMRO DPMNE party economic partners are Germany and ally cilantro). stereotypes, language, and cultural differ- films and music, and introducing "non- Moscow “will not take a more benev- by the Greek blockade, Macedonian fi- to Russia. insists on its firmly pro-Western creden- other European countries, Russia is still this might have something to do with them get- Life in Australia proves different in many ences, which can be frustrating. Yugos" to Kafana, a Serbian restaurant in olent attitude towards Macedonia until nally unlocked its stalled EU and NATO Macedonia’s National Coordinator tials. one of its top ten trading partners. ting vanilla ice cream. other ways: "School was strange… in some It seemed a bit unfair, she puts it, because NYC's East Village. Macedonia actually becomes a NATO membership bids on June 17, when for NATO, Stevo Pendarovski, said Rus- “I expect Russian influence to be Data from Macedonia’s State Statisti- ways very relaxed – all the kids sat on the she felt like she didn't quite fit in anywhere – Stefanovic is delighted by the positive member”, Adamcevski predicts. it signed a historic agreement with sia has a long-term interest in slowing boosted in the run-up to the next two cal Office show that trade exchanges EVENING ground, the teachers … would praise kids but was still encumbered with the "burden reactions to her book from readers, many “We know that Russia is against Mac- Greece. the Euro-Atlantic integration of all the key steps following the process of rati- with Russia between 2013 and 2017 for just trying, even if they got the answers of representation" – having to represent of whom grew up as immigrant children edonia’s NATO accession, so this means Under the terms of the agreement, Balkan countries, and in trying to break fication of the agreement with Greece marked a slow but steady increase, One of my favourite evening activities is din- wrong!" both her cultures. In Australia, she is "the themselves, and lived through similar ex- the possibility exists of Russia doing Macedonia is to change its name to the up cohesion between these countries … the referendum and the [subsequent] ranging between 170 and 200 million ner and drinks with friends. On a warm summer Moreover, she was bullied initially for Serbian girl"; in Serbia, she is "the Aussie periences. everything it can for the ‘name’ referen- Republic of – con- and the West. required constitutional changes,” he euros per year in total. night, I like to drink cocktails and watch the sun- not speaking English, something she took girl." She continues to champion the stories of dum to fail,” he added. ditioned by a successful referendum “In the case of Macedonia, they find added. Macedonian exports to Russia, main- set at Boho Bar [Mali Kalemegdan]. La Taqueria especially to heart: Hence, the title of her book, Miss Ex-Yu- immigrants by hosting the This Alien Na- slated for autumn – to make it more dis- fertile ground, mostly because they Another Skopje-based political ly agricultural products, wine, canned [Gracanicka 7] has amazing Mexican tacos, "I love language, and I'm a nerd, so I felt goslavia, which opens with a scene in 2005, tion reading series at Joe's Pub in New York. PRO-KREMLIN tinct from the northern Greek province play on the line of Orthodoxy,” Pen- analyst, Ljupco Ristovski, advises cau- food and pharmaceuticals, amounts to guacamole and nachos. The owner is Mexican, humiliated when I couldn't express myself, when 22-year-old Stefanovic finds herself A monthly event, it gives a voice to people FORCES ACCUSED OF of Macedonia. darovski noted. tion on the part of Macedonia, when it roughly a third of the total trade, with so he knows what he is doing. Od Usta do Usta and when people saw me as dumb. I still re- in an empty Melbourne nightclub, which is with immigrant backgrounds, encouraging PLOTTING VIOLENCE In return, Greece lifted its years-long Russians and Macedonians share comes to the use of rhetoric towards Russian exports of energy derivatives [Brace Nedic 7] is a nice place as well with a bit member that feeling of hopelessness, and hosting a pageant for young women of Yu- them to share and celebrate their stories in blockade of its neighbour’s Euro-Atlan- a common Orthodox Christian faith – Russia. to Macedonia accounting for the rest. of a hipster ambiance. It has delicious food and a I can only imagine what it was like for my goslav descent. front of a live audience. Relations plummeted to a new low tic membership bids. although Macedonia is also home to a “Knowing Russia’s geostrategic The last decade has also seen an in- lovely courtyard. parents, who were adults, and who were She is surrounded by stale smoke and Stefanovic recently became a mother, last week after Macedonian Prime As a result, the EU this summer grant- large Albanian Muslim minority. goals, we need not act angrily or crease in Russian investments, which the looked down on for having accents. Being hairspray, as well as the other girls, many making this a very big year for her; she Minister Zoran Zaev accused Greek ed a conditional start to Macedonian “The West is portrayed [among Or- harshly. We need to build up our own Macedonian-Russian Economic Cham- an articulate person, and suddenly not of them refugees, all speaking a mixture of finds herself speaking Serbian to her baby When I crave a sweet dessert, I either go to JaM businessmen allied to Russia of pay- accession talks for next year. thodox Macedonians] as the protector position and do our homework to ber estimates have totalled 90 million eu- being able to express yourself is hard, and English interspersed with the odd "Yugo" who has just started eating solid food – en- [Knez-Miletina 25-27] or Dokolica Bistro [Kralja ing troublemakers to stir up violence in NATO meanwhile extended a direct of the Albanians, along the lines of – speed up our Euro-Atlantic integra- ros. Some of the biggest investors include something immigrants deal with all the phrase, all sharing a strange sensation of joying the traditional Yugo-tastes of Cokoli- Milutina 1]. Dokolica’s chocolate soufflé is really Macedonia in the run-up to the crucial membership invitation that will be- ‘They gave them a second state’ [mean- tion,” he said. energy giants Lukoil and Stroytransgaz. time." mixed identity. no, Smoki, and the occasional paprikas. good. FishZelenis in Beton Hala is another recent referendum – which is expected to take come effective once the country votes ing Kosovo] – ‘and now will give them Ristovski agreed that, as the refer- Economic expert Krste Shajnoski says Naturally, by the time Stefanovic – still a She has chosen to participate not out discovery. They serve the most original desserts place in autumn. for the change of name and makes con- a third’ [meaning the Albanian parts of endum day approaches, Russia “will a fragile economy like Macedonia’s can- child – and her family return briefly to Yu- of desire to become a beauty queen, but Sofija Stefanovic's autobiography, 'Miss Zaev said his government had re- stitutional changes to implement it. Macedonia],” he explained. try to accomplish its geostrategic posi- not afford to be picky about choosing be- like ice cream and sweet, milky burek. goslavia in 1990, she has become acclima- rather to document and incorporate the Ex-Yugoslavia', was published in April 2018 ceived reports that Greek businessmen However, a key problem for the gov- This discourse notes that, when the tions and aspirations to the full” – but tween Western and Russian investments tized to this Western system. Back in Bel- competition as part of her university docu- by Atria Books (Simon&Schuster) in the US who are “sympathetic to the Russian ernment in Skopje is that the main op- West mediated a settlement to an eth- thinks also that, “at this point, Russian – and should embrace them all equally. If I want to go out and dance, I like to meet up at grade, she feels like an outsider once again mentary class. and by Viking (Penguin Random House) cause” had paid Macedonians sums position VMRO DPMNE party, as well nic Albanian uprising in 2001, ‘they attempts come too late” and cannot “We are a small country that needs fresh Gastronaut Bar [Gospodar Jevremova 23]. During at school, readjusting to a culture she has The plan is to use this experience and in Australia. It can also be found in audio ranging from $13,000 to $21,000 to as several smaller parties, like the pro- also changed our constitution – while now derail Macedonia from its chosen capital and new employment,” Shajnoski the day, it is a coffee deli, but at night, they organ- slowly forgotten, and in which she is now interviews with the young competitors to format, as read by the author. At the time of “commit acts of violence”. Russian United Macedonia party, are the Russians have been close to us on path. told Voice of America last month. ise a lot of cool events with live music and DJs. known as the "Aussie" kid. help create a context for her student film – this article, it is only available in English. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT OUT AND ABOUT

Where Else?

Out among the knights of olden times Meet grilled meat in Leskovac Feel the Love in Vrnjacka Banja Blow your own trumpet in Guca Just Out Festival is held from August 24 to 26 in the Monastery, which Stefan Lazarevic built 600 years From August 27 to September 2, barbecue lovers can enjoy the biggest annual cel- This year marks the twelfth Lovefest, held from August 2 to 5 in Vrnjacka Banja. An Brass bands from around the world will be competing at the Guca Trumpet Festival from August 9 to 12 ago in Despotovac in central Serbia. Just Out celebrates medieval life and invites children and adults alike to ebration in Leskovac, a town in the south of Serbia. During Rostiljijada (or “barbecue festival, which seeks to celebrate young talent in music and the arts, in Guca, a town of 2,000 people in western Serbia. This competition, which has run for nearly 60 years, experience what life was like for the knights who might have lived near this monastery. Knights from dozens of week”), the main streets are closed to traffic and over 200 barbecues are set up, all the performers will be on one stage, so festival attendees will not have to move attracts over 600,000 visitors a year. The organisers held a series of elimination heats earlier in the year, so countries like Romania, Bulgaria, and Montenegro will come to the festival, and on the first night form a proces- sending up a thick aroma of barbeque throughout town. In the past, about half a around and miss some of the best acts. Some of the top performers this year are Ger- only a few dozen of the best bands will be competing. In the first part of the festival, previous winners will sion, carrying flags and walking in formation. They will display the duelling and fencing skills of the medieval million guests have visited the festival. Several competitions take place among grilled man DJ Marcel Dettmann, Jamie Jones from Wales and Dubfire from the US. In 2012, play songs while folk dancers dressed in bright colours dance to traditional tunes. In addition to the musical period. Children can participate in workshops with knights, where they learn skills like archery, fencing, and meat chefs from Serbia and abroad. At the 2016 festival, a grill master created the the Serbian Ministry of Youth and Sports recognised Lovefest as the largest youth performances, the festival includes an exhibition, a book fair, a sports competition and other art programs. pottery. Throughout the festival, there will be several medieval craft projects and museum exhibits, while musical world’s largest burger, weighing 63 kilogrammes. There are ample opportunities to festival in the country. This year, Lovefest is holding a special deal whereby the fourth The trumpet forms part of most celebrations in rural Serbia, and the festival allows thousands of people to performances present an unusual opportunity to hear modern and medieval music blended together. Just Out will sample the grills that Leskovac is famous for, which are made with a special type of of every three tickets purchased is free. A ticket for one day costs 18 euros and can be observe different styles of local music. Admission to all events is free. To find out more about arranged ac- provide food and drink, such as venison and wine from the Serbian countryside. As well as educating the public beef mixed with spices. During the festival, Leskovac also organizes other cultural purchased online at: shop.lovefest.rs/product-category/festival-tickets. commodation during the festival, email: [email protected]. about Serbia’s medieval history, the festival also seeks to clean up the area around the Manasija monastery that activities, such as fashion shows, carnivals, and , to enjoy while feasting on has suffered from flooding. the meat. Attendance is free.

a sarcophagus and lead water pipes, re- sent those discoveries, while enabling searchers knew they were onto some students and young Serbian and in- Taking the Iron Road significant findings. ternational scholars to study ancient heritage of the in Serbia IMPERIAL REMAINS with help of the latest scientific meth- ods and technology. Through Serbia Some preliminary research was Meanwhile, Pop Lazic's dedication and done at Glac in 1994, but due to finan- the work he has done as co-director of cial problems, years had to pass before the Glac Project has already been an in- With Serbia busily and January 26 January 1699, which the work was restarted. In 2017, theb spiration for many young archaeologists. ended hostilities between the Ottoman University of Sydney and the Archaeo- "I remember when I just enrolled to upgrading its long- Empire and the Holy League, a coalition logical Institute in Belgrade began their study archaeology and I desperately of various European powers including joint Glac Project to discover more wanted to explore ancient ," re- neglected railway Habsburg Austria. about the site. called Svetlana Gojkovic, a young ar- Early in the evening you return on "What we have found are the re- chaeologist from Sremska Mitrovica lines, there has the same train back to Belgrade. On the mains of several Roman buildings," and conservator at the Glac Project. way, you can enjoy a drink in the train's said Pop Lazic. "Stefan came to me, looked into my never been a better bar or just relax and watch the land- "According to all our physical find- eyes, stamped his foot on the ground time to catch some scape changing. More information on ings, supported by the results of mag- and said: 'You have under the schedule is available on Srbijavoz's netic and laser scanning of the ground your feet, girl, where do you want to go of the country’s website: (www.srbvoz.rs/eng/roman- at the Glac locality, what we have here from here?' And my mind was set, then tika.html) are the remains of the complex of an and there," Gojkovic added. most interesting Imperial ," he added. UP THE MOUNTAINS The Glac Project team's findings are A LOT TO LEARN sites by train. ON 'SARGAN'S EIGHT' supported by a written document by Aurelius Victorfrom the 4th century AD, Co-researcher Dr Alan Dearn of Syd- Fabian VENDRIG This 760 mm narrow-gauge railway indicating that "Emperor Maximian ney University, who is also in charge line between and Sar- erected the in proximity to Sir- of the Project Glac educational pro- hen the last train gan Vitasi, called "Sarganska osmica" mium, where his parents used to work gramme, said it is important to reach left Belgrade's old ("Sargan´s Eight") in southwest Serbia as day labourers". out to local people living in the Sremska main railway sta- was once part of the Belgrade-Sarajevo "Our excavation confirmed numer- Mitrovica area, especially young people. tion on June 30, an line, which closed in 1974. ous examples of imperial building in "We are not here just for not research era came to an end: With the help of Serbian film direc- Glac, developed in luxury construc- and conservation, which are of course theW main railway station had served the tor , Serbian Railways tion materials coming from all over the essential, but also to give young people city since it opened on August 23 1884, reconstructed the track. The track was Mediterranean, such as red and green here a chance to know better the his- after the first railway line in Serbia to built over the Sargan mountain pass porphyry from Egypt and the Pelopon- tory of their town," he explained. Nis was completed. and, in order to reach needed height nese, and marble from Tunisia, Greece "However, we learned that they do Belgrade's new station, "Beograd Cen- difference of 300 meters, it was built and Italy," Pop Lazic explained. not know that much. They are quite tar", also known as "", is further in the form of a figure eight, hence the "Comparing results of our work here proud about Sremska Mitrovica, but from the city centre than the old one name. to previous findings in the Sirmium when it comes to some historical facts, and is still in development. The train passes through beautiful imperial palace, imperial villas in Felix there is a lot to learn still." The reconstruction of Serbia's rail- landscape and at one point you can see Romuliana [a complex of and The Glac Project team has already ways is currently in full progress, with the railway line below you, or above temples built by Emperor Galerius near done a test tour around the archaeo- the line from Belgrade to Novi Sad and you, depending on the direction of trav- Zajecar in eastern Serbia] and logical sites of Sremska Mitrovica with (and then to Budapest) as the el. Along the railway track you will also Tracing Emperors’ [Emperor 's villa 20 local students. most important project. see some restored railway stations and near Nis in southern Serbia], we can "We talked about how Glac can be Once reconstruction is finished, the Golubici station, which was used as Footsteps in the ‘Mother presume that we are standing at yet an- a part of their future. When I look at passengers should be able to travel at a backdrop in Kusturica's film, Life is a other site of imperial Roman construc- Mitrovica I see some fantastic people, speeds of 200 km per hour. The esti- Miracle. tion in Serbia," he said. lots of enthusiasm and commitment, mated travel time between Belgrade The tourist train departs daily in the of Cities’ and with some coherent strategy and Budapest will be cut to around Former royal train station in Topcider where trains depart for the scenic, but long, ride to Bar in Montenegro. Photo: Fabian Vendrig summer season from Mokra Gora to HISTORY UNDERFOOT this town could be completely trans- three hours, although it is not known Sargan Vitasi and then back. In winter, in the northern part of the Maximians' Villa where white marble hand was found. Photo: Courtesy of Stefan Pop Lazic and Glac Project formed," Dearn said. yet when this will be possible. Belgrade to the Adriatic port of Bar in the train in the morning and return by day/night train to save time. The timeta- there are some scheduled departures. Due to the limitations of the project's "It is also the case with whole of Ser- Meanwhile, Serbian Railways has Montenegro. The 476 km-long journey nightfall. itself is a charming ble can be found on Srbijavoz's website: The best thing to do is to check the site Milan RADONJIC of ancient Roman city of Sirmium, the budget, it is the last day of the team's bia and its Roman legacy that needs to bought new rolling stock: electrical takes almost 12 hours – excluding rela- small town in western Serbia and sites (http://www.srbvoz.rs/bg_pg_vi.pdf) of Serbian Railways, which operates The town of birthplace of Maximian and ten other work for 2018 at Glac, and a recently- be presented better. This heritage could trains, called "Flirt", from the Swiss tively frequent delays and break downs worth visiting there include the local the train: (www.srbvoz.rs/eng/nostal- Sremska Mitrovica here is an element of self- Roman emperors. discovered mosaic on the northern bring so much to this country if there company Stadler and diesel trains from – but is well worth it: many travel guides museum. Nature lovers can take a hike RIDE THE 'ROMANTIC gia.html) contained pride in Stefan Sirmium was one of the four major part of the site is covered with nylon. It would be a vision and some consisten- Russia's Metrovagonmash. praise this railway for its beauty. along the gorge. TRAIN' TO VOJVODINA is built on the ruins Pop Lazic's resolute but Roman cities and military camps in the will be lifted for our camera before sand cy grounded in historical understand- Despite these announced changes, It took the Yugoslav government is one of the most popular OTHER TRIPS: careful steps as he comes period between the 3rd and 6th centuries is poured over it for protection, until the ing of this locality," he added. traveling by train still requires a bit of 24 years to build the line, which fi- tourist destinations in Serbia and is best During summer, you can take the Ro- VRSAC AND PRAHOVO of the ancient to welcome us in Glac on AD, spreading over some 100 hectares, next season's work begins. Unfortunately historical locations in patience in Serbia – but patience is re- nally opened on May 28 1976. When reached via the stations at Branesci or mantic Train (Romantika voz), which Beside the trips described above, Tthe outskirts of Sremska Mitrovica. with an estimated 200,000 inhabitants, "This rain is just killing us," said Pop La- Sremska Mitrovica and the surround- warded: it is a far more comfortable you know that the train passes 254 Uzice, from where you can take public runs to the town of Sremski Karlovci, a day trip from Belgrade to Vrsac, an Roman city of This is because Pop Lazic, a research- and was also known as the 'Mother of zic, carefully lifting up the covering for us ing villages are still plagued by illegal way to travel through the country than tunnels and crosses 435 bridges, you or private transport. near Novi Sad and the Fruska Gora Na- interesting town near the Romanian Sirmium, known er from the Belgrade Archaeological In- Cities'. to take photos of the ancient artwork. digging for treasure, and even today, it by bus. Travellers see more of the land- can understand why the work took If you want to do the whole journey tional Park. The train leaves Belgrade border, in Vojvodina, is worth taking. stitute, and his fellow researchers from It has been known since the 19th Cen- A carefully crafted white marble is easy to spot people with metal detec- scape and can even enjoy a tipple on so long. The highest point of the rail- to Bar, which is an adventure itself, re- from Topcider in the morning, using The diesel train will bring you there in as the ‘Mother the University of Sydney, believe this tury that Glac, on the right bank of the hand was also found here, a part of a tors searching for pieces of history to board. It brings a sense of adventure, re- way line is 1,023 metres above sea member that trains to Bar no longer old-fashioned railway carriages from less than two hours, and with five trains is a very special place – a place where River, was a historic site. At first, statue of a still-unknown Roman god, so sell on the black market. calling the early days of the famous Ori- level in Kolasin, Montenegro. You also leave from the main railway station but the 1930s. Two hours later, you reach a day you can be flexible. While there, of Cities’, and an some 15 centuries ago stood the villa of everything indicated that this was the it is presumed that this part of the site is "One of the ways to solve this problem ent Express, which used to cross Serbia cross the Mala Rijeka viaduct in Mon- from the station at Topcider, which was Sremski Karlovci. try some of the local wines, especially Emperor Maximianus Herculius (also former camp of Khagan Bayan I, who a part of a large hall where the emperor could is to legalise individual research, during its legendary journey from Paris tenegro, which, with a height of 198 formerly solely used by the royal fam- From there, it is an easy walk to the as there is no pressure about driving archaeological known as Maximian, who came from a successfully besieged Roman Sirmium would host and impress his guests. but with obligation to declare all findings to Constantinople. metres, is also the highest viaduct in ily and, later, by President Tito. town centre, where you can sample home. team now aims humble background and rose through in 582 AD. Eventually the Glac Project, in part- which could be rewarded by the state Europe. Topcider can be reached easily by some tasty local specialties. Both the More careful plans are needed if you the ranks to become co-ruler of the Ro- In 1915, during , Austro- nership with the Museum of Srem and both financially and in terms of social FROM BELGRADE If you are unable to undertake the from the old railway station and, old Catholic and Orthodox churches want to travel from Nis to Prahovo in to excavate and man Empire with the emperor Diocle- Hungarian soldiers came upon a mosa- the Institute for Protection of Cultural recognition for the finder," said Dearn. TO THE SEA AT BAR whole journey, the line offers a few of course, by taxi or car. It is advisable are worth visiting. You can also walk eastern Serbia close to the border with tian. ic of some 80 square metre in size while Monuments in Sremska Mitrovica, "This would give an incentive to peo- interesting stops along the way, such to take the train by day, so you can fully to the "peace chapel". Here, the historic Romania and Bulgaria, another ride display its ancient The entire town of Sremska Mitro- digging trenches. When years later, the aims to establish an educational centre. ple to search, but at the same time to The most beautiful railway trip in the as Valjevo and Zlatibor. Valjevo is a enjoy the view, but there is also a night Treaty of Karlowitz was negotiated be- that passes through some of Serbia's vica, some 55 kilometres to the west of remains of a building with an apse in As well as further exploring the site, cherish and protect this amazing world region is definitely the journey from perfect day trip by train: you can take train. You could do a combination of a tween November 16 November 1698 most beautiful landscapes. imperial wonders. Belgrade, is constructed on the ruins white marble were found, together with its main purpose will be to better pre- heritage." 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 13 BELGRADE INSIDER ARTS

Nature Photography Exhibition by Milan BITEF Returns With Zivkovic The renowned photographer and longtime editor-in-chief of the magazine Refoto, Arts in brief Milan Zivkovic, has donated Apocalyptic Theme all his nature photographs from Serbia to the Natural History Museum in Belgrade. nd His works will be on display The 52 BITEF from July 24 to September 30 at the Natural History festival explores the Museum Gallery (Mali Kale- somber themes of megdan 5). Entrance is free. Sculptors Exhibit at political, social and individual decay, A group exhibition of the works of Serbian sculptors through some of opens on July 26 at the Cvijeta Zuzoric Pavillion Europe’s most ac- (Mali Kalemegdan 1). The exhibition, organised by the Sculpture Department of complished avant- the Serbian Artists Associa- tion, will be on display until garde theatre pro- August 13. Entrance is free. ductions. Army Ministry Ensemble Tackles ‘Don Giovanni’ David GALIC The Art Ensemble of the Minis- he Belgrade International try of Defence “Stanislav Bin- Theatre Festival, BITEF, re- icki” will perform Mozart’s Don mains one of the most im- Giovanni, with the New York portant theatre events in Metropolitan Opera’s Gregory the region. After 52 years, it Buchalter leading the orchestra. The performance takes place Thas put Serbia high up on the theatrical at the Kombank Hall (Decanska map of Europe. Throughout that period 14) on Saturday, July 28 at Bitef has consistently been a relevant, 9pm. Tickets cost between and even an essential, contributor to 1,500 dinars (13 euros) and A scene from Odilo. Obscuration. Oratorio. directed by Dragan Zivadinov from Slovenia. Photo: Nada Zgank Serbian and European culture. As an 3,000 dinars (25 euros). institution, it has not hesitated to ques- formance setting the vibe of the festival. Maja Pelevic’s Bollywood offers a The festival closes with Requiem for Arts and Crafts on tion current dogmas and beliefs, and to This year’s prologue is a play direct- theoretical examination of our most L by Les Ballets C de la B from , Show at Zemun Quay shake up the status quo with its careful- ed by the Slovenian director Dragan urgent global political challenges. It is choreographed by Alain Platel and ly curated programmes, selected by top Zivadinov, one of the most prominent produced by the National Theatre in scored by Fabrizio Cassol. The score The Popular Tradition As- theatrologists, authors and directors. figures of the Yugoslav avant garde in Belgrade through Philosophical Thea- combines Mozart’s Requiem with Af- sociation, in cooperation with This year’s BITEF runs from Sep- the 1980s and particularly of the Neue tre, a side programme curated by the rican funeral music and is performed the Go Zemun collective, is tember 13 to 22 and will host ten plays Slowenische Kunst movement. Croatian philosopher Srecko Horvat. by an ensemble of African musicians organising a showcase of in various venues around Belgrade, This time, Zivadinov is abandoning The Estonian Theatre NO99 brings playing to the footage of a dying white handiwork by local residents, including the Yugoslav Drama Thea- his “cosmokinetic theatre” and “encap- NO43 Filth. With its apocalyptical ele- woman, creating thus a “black requiem including knitwork, jewelry, Junkers JU 52 arrived to the museum after being captured by sneaky Yugoslav Partisans. Photo: Wikimedia / Wusel007 ceramics and more. The items tre, National Theatre, Belgrade Drama sulations” for the more “down-to-earth” ments, it marks the transition to the for a white world”, of sorts. of show will all be available Theatre, Bitef Theatre and Sava Centre. theme of , revisiting the deliber- second concept of the programme – a In addition to the main programme for purchase. The craft fair The slogan of this year’s festival, ately forgotten figure of Odilo Globocnik, world without human beings. and the Philosophical Theatre, BITEF on the Zemun Quay riverside “World Without Us”, has a threefold a Slovenian who was one of Hitler’s clos- The remaining three pieces are actu- will again include side programmes promenade lasts from August A History of Yugoslavia, From the Cockpit meaning. It contemplates a world with- est confidantes, in a performance piece ally installations with no performers at such as the Conference on Fine Arts, 3, starting at 9am, to August out “us” as the “good people,” which is entitled Odilo. Obscuration. Oratorio. all. BITEF Polyphony, BITEF Library, 5, closing at 9pm. where most politically-themed projects After Suite # 2, Joris Lacoste returns Eternal Russia, by Marina Davydova, Showcase of Serbian Theatre, Interna- Belgrade - The City the following year at the Air Force women working the land to lift the tail to maintain the fleet so Yugoslavia Mitrovic pointed to the Orao (Eagle), are represented. The second meaning to Bitef with Suite #3 “Europe”. This con- suggests that the only thing constant and tional Educational Programme of Fes- in Which I Create Belgrade’s Aviation Headquarters in Zemun. of the aircraft so he could take off again. turned to domestic production. built in cooperation with Romania and refers to a world literally devoid of peo- sists of 28 audio recordings, from every- “eternal” in Russia is authoritarianism. tival Management and Presentation of Museum boasts Within three years, the first major As the engine started the gusts lifted "You can see the results here," said the first Yugoslav-designed plane to ple, as a result of an imminent apoca- day conversations to political speech- PA’AM, from Israel, shifts the narrative to Bitef’s Digitalization. Gallery (Knez exhibition of World War II fighter planes their skirts up, or so the story goes. Mladenovic, giving the example of the break the sound barrier in 1984, then lypse. The third context is the context es, each corresponding to one of the 28 more intimate dimensions, with a spec- Mihailova 40) is one of the a collection as was held at the old Bezanija airport and Ikarus S-49, built within a year based on the small, silver-coloured Ikarus 451, of death – of being gone from this world. member states of the European Union. tacular lights-and-video installation. Tickets for Requiem for L, which will few galleries in Belgrade over the following decade the museum's RAF TO LUFTWAFFE the pre-war Rogozarski IK-3. an experimental aircraft designed The slogan, as well as the themes, Oliver Frljic will present not one but In Nachlass, a masterpiece of stage be performed in Sava Centre, are avail- that remains active to overcome the negative impact of throughout the summer. unique as the collection of airplanes, gliders, replicas Tito's balancing act between East and point to the atmosphere of looming two performances. Gorki – Alternative design by the Swiss Vidy Theatre, [word able now and cost from 1,200 dinars [10 On Thursday, August 2, the and documentation rapidly expanded, Spread over two levels, the museum West is visible in the aircraft on display, G-forces on the pilot. destruction that haunts contemporary for Germany? tackles the rise of the far missing?] Stefan Kaegi of the Rimini euros] to 2,500 dinars [21 euros]. gallery will organise a group country that put it outgrowing the Zemun site. houses more than 50 military planes, from the American jets of the 1950s "The cockpit is very long and narrow, European societies. It is no wonder that right in Germany, while Six Characters Protokoll, the audience walks from one exhibition entitled, Belgrade In 1969, a design competition for a gliders, helicopters and aircraft parts, flown by Yugoslav air force pilots, to because the pilot had to steer in prone so many artists find this idea pressing in Search of an Author, an interpreta- carefully crafted cell to another, each Tickets for the rest of the plays and - The City in Which I Create together. new museum building was won by some grounded, others dangling in the the Soviet MiG-21 that arrived in 1962 as position," he said. Thanks to the advent and are urgent to express it. tion of the famous play by Luigi Piran- representing real people’s memories, performances will be made available from 2018, curated by Marina Sarajevo-graduated architect Ivan air. Each tells a story, said curator Darko relations with Moscow improved. of the anti-g suit, however, the plane The festival, as usual, opens with a dello, again explores the nature of the ideas about death and ways they want August 27. Prices will range from 1,700 Milovanovic Kusic. Admis- Mandy DUIJN Straus, the man behind the iconic Mladenovic, pointing to a tail part of a While Yugoslav pilots considered the was never fully developed. “prologue,” an introductory play or per- radical right in European societies. to be remembered. dinars [15 euros] to 2,500 dinars [21 euros]. sion to the gallery is free. Holiday Inn Hotel in the Bosnian capital WWII German Junkers bomber. American models not too reliable, the MiG Mitrovic ended his unofficial tour ith its glass curves, and the General Post Office in Addis He described how bad weather was regarded as one of the best fighter with the Galeb (Seagul), "the best plane Belgrade's Aeronautical Ababa, Ethiopia. forced the plane to land at an airstrip planes of its time, easy to use, cheap to ever built in Yugoslavia" and a veteran Museum looks like Construction began in the mid-1970s that, unbeknown to the Luftwaffe pilot, maintain and very reliable. Yugoslavia was of 6,000 flight hours according to the Wa giant mushroom but dragged on for almost 15 years, was controlled by Yugoslav Partisans. the first country outside the Warsaw Pact sticker on its flank. plucked from another world, or an dogged by technical and financial "They immediately captured the to get its hands on one. The same Yugoslav "During an air show in France, it was over-sized doughnut. difficulties. The planes were positioned plane, repainted it and started using it air force unit might have both a MiG and an unanimously recognised as the best But while buffs might on the ground plan, and the dome built themselves," Mladenovic said. American Sabre within its armoury. training jet in the world," he said. "The go weak at the knees at the sight of the around them. The museum opened its The Junkers remnant is surrounded plane corrects itself when the pilot building, it's the 'rare birds' inside that doors to the public in May 1989. by three other WWII icons not often NATO BOMBING makes a mistake." make this museum on the approach to found together – a British Supermarine Nikola Tesla Airport really worth a visit. WOOD AND CLOTH Spitfire, a Soviet Yakovlev Yak-3 and a The history lesson ends with the GENERAL INFORMATION One of the only museums in the German Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-2. NATO bombing of rump Yugoslavia in world that can boast British, German Every visit begins with a replica "These are some rare birds," said 1999 and features the cockpit canopy Opening hours: every day from 8 am and Soviet classics of World War II side- of the Saric No. 1, a wood and cloth aviation enthusiast and museum regular of an F-16, a part of one of the guided to 5 pm (last entry at 4.30 pm) by-side, the museum tells the story of contraption that marked the start of Mico Mitrovic. "You have to imagine there missiles that struck the Chinese Entrance fee: 600 RSD (300 RSD for over 100 years of aviation history in Serbian aviation history. Built in 1910 by are almost no 'survivors' to be found." embassy in Belgrade and a wing from Serbian citizens) the Balkans with an eclectic collection Ivan Saric of the northern Serbian town The Yak-3 is one of only three such a downed Nighthawk stealth bomber. How to get there: the museum is of aircraft as unique as the country that of Subotica, the flying machine was models left, the other two exhibited The Nighthawk pilot, Lieutenant located 18 kilometers from the city, next assembled it. capable of travelling three kilometres in Paris and Moscow. But, Mitrovic Colonel Dale Zelko, ejected and was to the Nikola Tesla International Airport. The museum traces its own history at a height of 30 metres. said, "this is the only one 100 per cent rescued from a field by the US air force It is easily reachable by car via the E-75 to 1956, when a young historian and Saric himself oversaw construction authentically preserved." the next morning. Mladenovic said he highway and there is space for parking in aviation enthusiast called Cedomir of the replica, which contains a number had visited the museum "at least twice." front. Buses A1 and 72 from the city centre Janic was given a piece of one of the of original parts, such as the propeller EAST AND WEST Asked to name his favourite exhibit, or 607 from take you to first airplanes in the region as he toyed blades that Saric dug out from his attic. aviation enthusiast Mitrovic struggled. the airport in 30-40 minutes. From there, with the idea of opening a museum. Legend has it that engine trouble once Immediately after WWII, Tito leant "It's impossible to choose; there are it is less than 10 minutes by foot to the It became the first exhibit in the forced Saric to land in a field, where, on Soviet technology, but after his split simply too many fascinating planes," museum (which is hard to miss because Yugoslav Aviation Museum, founded on fixing the problem, he asked the with Stalin in 1948 it became impossible he said. of its giant glass dome). 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 15 GOING OUT GOING OUT Summer in the City: Belgrade’s Best Beach Bars CLUBBING All in all, it's safe to say that a trip to This August, cool is unavoidable if you plan on spending the summer in Belgrade. AND LIVE MUSIC off by the water, DASKA I VESLO BEACH BAR cocktail in hand. FRIDAY JULY 27 • Monday , Dom Omladine, • Be Here and There, Serbian FRIDAY AUGUST 17 SUNDAY AUGUST 26 Makedonska 22, 9pm Berklee College of Music This 'beach bar' is relatively new, • Bikini, Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Arsen Dedic Night, Polet, Students , Bitefartcafe • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Sundays: DJ Vuk having opened a couple of summers ago, Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Cetinjska 15, 8pm Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 9pm 10pm Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace and offers a different concept. Meaning • Girls, Boys and Toys, Bitefartcafe • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, Krsmanovica 8, 11pm David GALIC 'board and paddle', Daska i Veslo is Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm TUESDAY JULY 31 WEDNESDAY AUGUST 08 Usce bb, 11pm • Sunday Matinee, Lasta, Bulevar geared towards sporty types interested • Garden Welcome: Milos Starcevic • Belgrade, different Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm hough summer has in renting out a paddleboard that you & John Belk, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Sensual Cruising, Zappa Barka, • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, performers, Usce, 6pm • Leto Matinee, Leto, Bulevar been pretty tame so stand on and paddle around the river. Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Usce bb, 9pm Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, • Alternative STAGE Festm Beer Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm • Surf at Garden, Drugstore, Bulevar • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace 11pm Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 7.30pm far in Belgrade, that There are also paddle boats for those Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Krsmanovica 8, 11pm • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce MONDAY AUGUST 27 doesn't mean we're not who would rather sit, as well as kayaks. • Robert Bergman / Vemic + Guney, • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, bb, 11pm SATURDAY AUGUST 18 in for a scorching August. But given its location, behind Club 2044, Usce bb, 11pm Usce bb, 11pm • Monday Midnight, Hot Mess, TThankfully, there are plenty of places Hotel Jugoslavija, swimming is not • Bucalo, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm THURSDAY AUGUST 09 • Sleparenje, Strafta Club, Usce bb, Usce bb, 11pm where you can cool off, cocktail in hand. recommended due to the fast currents • Letnji LJ – Open Air, WEDNESDAY AUGUST 01 10pm • Jessie Ware, Kalemegdan, 8pm If you're spending the summer in the in this part of the river. But it's still a Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Kultura press. Guti Live (Desolat, • Kollektiv Turmstrasse / • CantOut Fest, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm city and looking for a place to take a dip, perfect place to relax on a lazy bag • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Tranzit AR), Club 2044, Usce bb, 9pm Magdalena / Magit Cacoon, here are a few places you might want to and feel like you've left the city, with 10pm Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm • Beyond Summer Jam 2000, Barutana, Kalemegdan, 11pm TUESDAY AUGUST 28 check out. excellent food and drink. It has a very • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce Strafta Club, Usce bb, 10pm • House Night, Freestyler Club, Usce nautical feel, and has no issue with Usce bb, 11pm bb, 11pm • RnB Thursday Delight, Lasta, bb, 11pm • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace guests arriving in swimsuits. • Pink Champagne, Shake’nShake, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, Usce bb, Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Usce bb, 11pm THURSDAY AUGUST 02 • One on One, Freestyler Club, Usce 11pm • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, If you want to inject a bit of energy • Peppe, Collective & Goran bb, 11pm • Beer Festival Belgrade, different Usce bb, 11pm Many Serbs consider Bela Stena into your summer relaxation, this is the Starcevic, Lasta, Bulevar Vojvode • Ziska, Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Grupa 3, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm performers, Usce, 6pm the best sandy beach on the Danube, place to do it. Misisca bb, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 8pm • Alternative STAGE Festm Beer WEDNESDAY AUGUST 29 not just in Belgrade. A on • Teo Trunk & Nexie, Bulevar • Gisele Jackson & The Brill FRIDAY AUGUST 10 Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 7.30pm the right side of the Danube close to HOT MESS RIVER CLUB Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm Building Project Live!, Tranzit • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Tranzit Pancevo, Bela Stena is a trek from the • Mythologia – Calavera Manya, Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 10pm • Forward Transition, Drugstore, SUNDAY AUGUST 19 Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm city centre but close enough for a day- This is the only major 'splav' (raft) Petru & Teo Trunk, Hot Mess, Usce • Beyond Summer Jam 2000, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce trip. in the city that has its own swimming bb, 11pm Strafta Club, Usce bb, 10pm • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk bb, 11pm It's also pretty easy to get to. Just go pool, which accounts for its popularity. • Roze Poze / Samostalni Referenti • RnB Thursday Delight, Lasta, 10pm Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace • The Real McKenzie’s, Gavez Club, to the port in the Belgrade suburb of The pool is open during the day for / S.U.S, Beer Garden, Ada Ciganlija, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Ada Ciganlija, 7pm Visnjica and take a boat to it directly. swimming and Hot Mess has a lot to offer 9pm • One on One, Freestyler Club, Usce Usce bb, 11pm • Sunday Matinee, Lasta, Bulevar • Aklea Neon & Thunder Moon, bb, 11pm • , Beer Garden, Ada Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm THURSDAY AUGUST 30 The ride costs less than a euro and takes when it comes to eating and drinking. Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Be Here and There Jam Sesion, Ciganlija, 9pm • Leto Matinee, Leto, Bulevar just 10 minutes. But given its beauty, And while it's pretty relaxed by day, • Fuse, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59b, 9pm Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm • Beyond Summer Jam 2000, be prepared for a crowd. On a hot by night Hot Mess is one of the loudest 11pm • Stereo Banana, Zappa Barka, Usce SATURDAY AUGUST 11 • Beer Festival Belgrade, different Strafta Club, Usce bb, 10pm summer's day, it's almost impossible to Hot Mess brings an “Ibiza-vibe” to Belgrade with its pool. Photo: Courtesy of Hot Mess and rowdiest splavs in the city. If you're bb, 10pm performers, Usce, 6pm • RnB Thursday Delight, Lasta, get a spot in the shade. looking for that Ibiza vibe – house SATURDAY JULY 28 • Sleparenje, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Alternative STAGE Festm Beer Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm Many visitors fire up the barbecue. ADA CIGANLIJA dip in the water and returning to their no swimming allowed once the sun music, beautiful people, expensive FRIDAY AUGUST 03 10pm Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 7.30pm • One on One, Freestyler Club, Usce But if you want to sit in a restaurant and tables. It's even encouraged. sets and the lifeguards hang up their cocktails and parties that last deep into • HKLRZ, Grad Cultural Center, Brace • House Night, Freestyler Club, Usce bb, 11pm enjoy some food and drink there are a Known as the "Belgrade Sea," Ada The bars and cafes are many and Speedos. the night, this is the place for you. And Krsmanovica 4, 8pm • Putnik 2: 33.10.3402, WC7, bb, 11pm MONDAY AUGUST 20 • 7th World Music Festival “Todo couple of taverns to choose from. Think Ciganlija is a popular artificial lake a few varied. For the more upscale, try Reziser (Director) and Na Kraju Sveta of course, you have to dress up if you • Beach Alarm Party, Polet, Bagheera, Drugstore, Bulevar • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, Usce bb, Mundo”, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, plastic chairs and Coca Cola umbrellas, kilometres from the city centre. There's Koketa and Petica on the Makiska side (At the End of the World) are other plan to stay after sundown (trousers Cetinjska 15, 9pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm 11pm • Monday Midnight, Hot Mess, Studentski trg 5, 8.30pm with a menu to match – cheap beer, a ton of stuff to do there, from golf to where you can enjoy a cocktail. There's good places to relax, offering reggae or and shirts for guys, cocktail dresses and • LezzGo, Bitefartcafe Summer Stage, • Disco Not Disco, Club 2044, Usce • The Bite, Dom Omladine, Usce bb, 11pm Kalemegdan, 10pm bb, 11pm Makedonska 22, 9pm FRIDAY AUGUST 31 wine, sodas and the traditional Serbian , biking to basketball and, of also, inevitably, the riverside edition of rather than . Na Kraju the like for gals). Be prepared to queue. • Danijel Cehranov All Night Long, • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Garavi Sokak, Gardos, Zemun, TUESDAY AUGUST 21 fare of fish stew and beans. course, there are the bars. Smokvica, the slightly posh cafe chain Sveta is particularly chilled-out. It's pet- But if you just want to go to a cafe that Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 10pm 9pm • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, If you're looking for a beach that The best extend their seating all the that can be found across Belgrade. friendly, offers great freshly-squeezed has a pool, show up early and grab a 11pm • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace 10pm offers a real escape, Bela Stena is the way down to the water, and have no Both are great places to chill during the juices and is conveniently close to Ada's spot close to the water. Hot Mess is open • Spacewalker, Kaldrma Bar, Usce bb, 11pm SUNDAY AUGUST 12 Krsmanovica 8, 11pm • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, best Belgrade has to offer. problem with the clientele taking a day and fun to visit at night, but there's nudist beach, if that floats your boat. from 10 am to 3 am. Skadarska 40, 8pm • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, Usce bb, 11pm • Voiski / LIES/ Delsin, Drugstore, SATURDAY AUGUST 04 • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk Usce bb, 11pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 01 Another New Festival, Roisin Murphy and • Capablanca / 33.10.3402, Club • Marko Nastic All Night Long, Krsmanovica 8, 11pm WEDNESDAY AUGUST 22 2044, Usce bb, 11pm Club 2044, Usce bb, 11pm • Sunday Matinee, Lasta, Bulevar • EWOX, Grad Cultural Center, Brace Belgreat, Arrives Stranglers at Beer Fest • Sleparenje, Strafta Club, Usce bb, • Sleparenje, Strafta Club, Usce bb, Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Krsmanovica 4, 6pm 10pm 10pm • Leto Matinee, Leto, Bulevar Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, et another new festival in the Serbian capital, the Bel- his year’s edition of the popular Belgrade Beer • House Night, Freestyler Club, Usce • House Night, Freestyler Club, Usce Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm 11pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 02 great Festival, will take place on July 27 and 28 at Fest brings the amazing UK electro pop star bb, 11pm bb, 11pm • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce Barutana, an old gunpowred magazine inside Roisin Murphy, who will perform at midnight • VUK, Shake’nShake, Usce bb, 11pm • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, Usce bb, MONDAY AUGUST 13 bb, 11pm • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk • Dooshan, Divolly & Markward 11pm Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace the . The organisers have an- on the first day of the festival. The Stranglers, & Milos Starcevic, Lasta, Bulevar • Harlekin, Dom Omladine, • Monday Midnight, Hot Mess, THURSDAY AUGUST 23 Krsmanovica 8, 11pm nounced a rich two-day programme, with the one of the most popular early punk acts, Vojvode Misisca bb, 11pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Usce bb, 11pm Yroster including big names such as Goldie, Cristian Varela, Tand whose appeal stretched far beyond punk itself, will • John Belk & Nenad Jovanovic, • Abba real Tribute Band, Beer • Kultura pres. Radio Slave TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 04 Ben Sterling and Vinicius Honorio, as well as local musical charge up the beer-loving crowd on the second festival Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 9pm TUESDAY AUGUST 14 (Rekids, UK), Club 2044, Usce bb, and DJs acts such as Kanda Kodza i Nebojsa, Nikola Vran- evening with their classic hits like No More Heroes and • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, Usce bb, • Be Here and There, Bitefartcafe 9pm • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace jkovic, Monochromatic, Bege Fank, Thinker, Feloneezy, Vatra Always the Sun. Riblja Corba, , Aerodrom, 11pm Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 9pm • Sensual Cruising, Zappa Barka, • Beyond Summer Jam 2000, Krsmanovica 8, 11pm and many others. Lollobrigida and Obojeni Programme will represent the • Nezni Dalibor, Museum of • Bane / Kolac / Counterlgnition, Usce bb, 9pm Strafta Club, Usce bb, 10pm Although tickets were initially going to be sold, the festival local scene in what promises to be another wildly success- Yugoslavia, Mihaila Mike Jankovica Fest Club, Gradski park 2, 8pm • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace • RnB Thursday Delight, Lasta, WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 05 organizers later decided that it would be free this year, probably ful edition of the . The festival will take 6, 8pm • , Kontra, Indigo, Zappa Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, in the hope of making a name for the festival and so getting people place from August 15 to 19 at the Usce park in Novi Beograd. En- • Yokono, Dom Omladine, Barka, Usce bb, 10pm • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, 11pm • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, to check it out. trance, as always, is free. Makedonska 22, 8pm Usce bb, 11pm • One on One, Freestyler Club, Usce Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, • Maljciki / Novi talas Tribute SUNDAY AUGUST 05 bb, 11pm 11pm band, Beer Garden, Ada Ciganlija, WEDNESDAY AUGUST 15 9pm • Gemini Brothers (ROM) All Night FRIDAY AUGUST 24 SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 07 • Saturday Hardcore Fever 2018, Long, Club 2044, Usce bb, 11pm • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, 8pm • Sunday Matinee, Lasta, Bulevar Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, • NovaMate Party, Barutana, • Bryan Ferry, Stark Arena, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm 11pm Kalemegdan Donji grad, 9pm Arsenija Carnojevica 58, 8pm SUNDAY JULY 29 • Leto Matinee, Leto, Bulevar • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce • Patricia (Opal Tapes/ Spectra Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm bb, 11pm Sound, USA), Drugstore, SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 08 • WoO, Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Alternative STAGE Festm Beer Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Krsmanovica 4, 8pm MONDAY AUGUST 06 Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 7.30pm 11pm • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk Berklee Alumni and • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk • Beer Festival Belgrade, Usce, • MashUp, Strafta Club, Usce bb, Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace Students in Concert Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Monday Midnight, Hot Mess, 6pm 10pm Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Usce bb, 11pm • RnB DanceHall, Freestyler Club, The Berklee College of Music is one of • Lauren Lane, Lasta, Bulevar • Be Here and There, Serbian THURSDAY AUGUST 16 Usce bb, 11pm TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 10 the most prestigious institutions of musi- Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm Berklee College of Music • Elektricni Orgazam, Zappa Barka, cal education in the world, and a place Voiski (L.I.E.S.) Makes Serbian Debut Bryan Ferry in Concert • BG Matinee – Nexie, Mancha & Students Students Concert, • Beyond Summer Jam 2000, Usce bb, 10pm • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace that gave birth to many big names in Gypsy Jazz Show at Blues & Beer John Belk, Leto, Bulevar Vojvode Bitefartcafe Summer Stage, Strafta Club, Usce bb, 10pm Krsmanovica 8, 11pm jazz, pop and . The BitefArt- The Serbian debut of talented French The legendary crooner and arguably Misica bb, 6pm Kalemegdan, 9pm • RnB Thursday Delight, Lasta, SATURDAY AUGUST 25 Cafe Summer Stage (Mali Kalemegdan 2) producer and DJ Voiski, who is about to The popular bar Bluz i Pivo (Cetinjska Jessie Ware Live in Kalemegdan one of the most suave pop stars ever, • Rock’n’Roll Dance, Dorcol Platz, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11pm WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 11 will organize two concerts, on August 6 drop his latest release Sick Parrots, will 15), serving, as the name suggests, cold Bryan Ferry is coming to Belgrade on Dobracina 59b, 9pm TUESDAY AUGUST 07 • One on One, Freestyler Club, Usce • House Night, Freestyler Club, Usce and 7, to showcase some of the Serbian take place at Drugstore (Bulevar Despota brews to the sound of smooth blues The immensely talented British pop September 7, playing the Stark Arena • , Zappa Barka, Usce bb, bb, 11pm bb, 11pm • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Tranzit alumni and students of this prestigious Stefana 155). To be more specific, the tunes, will host a show by Vladislav sensation Jessie Ware will perform in (Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 58). This 10pm • Sensual Cruising, Zappa Barka, • Beer Festival Belgrade, different • Sleparenje, Strafta Club, Usce bb, Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm institution such as: Vasil Hadzimanov, event will be held in the Garden of Drug- Highlander Cpajak, a classical concert at the Kalemegdan Fortress, by is not the first time Ferry has performed Usce bb, 9pm performers, Usce, 6pm 10pm Marko Djordjevic and Pera Krstajic, Ana store (its summer venue), on July 28, virtuoso. He will give the audience a the Military Museum, on August 27. The in Belgrade but, given his popularity in Krstajic, Katarina Pejak and Ana Protu- starting at 11pm. Tickets will cost about glimpse into the world of gypsy jazz, concert is part of Ware’s European tour these parts, the arena will be surely be MONDAY JULY 30 • Savamaladies, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Alternative STAGE Festm Beer • Cherry on Top, Hot Mess, Usce bb, SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 14 lipac. Tickets cost 400 dinars (3 euros) 700 dinars (6 euros). Local support will featuring music from legends like Django promoting her latest release, Glasshouse. packed. Tickets range from 3,300 dinars Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 7.30pm 11pm per night or 700 dinars (6 euros) for a be provided by Stevie Whisper and and the Rosenberg Trio. The show starts Tickets for the concert cost 2,190 dinars (28 euros) to 4,490 dinars (38 euros), • Monday Midnight – Mooka, Hot • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, • Sajzerbiterlemon / Prototip, • Night, Beer Garden, • Voivod, Maggot Heart, two-day ticket. Matej Rusmir. at 8pm on July 24 and is free. (18 euros). The show starts at 8pm. depending on seating. Mess, Usce bb, 11pm Usce bb, 11pm Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm Ada Ciganlija, 9pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 27 - Thursday, September 13, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

• Exhibition: Aquarelle, Dusan WEDNESDAY AUGUST 15 FRIDAY AUGUST 31 FRIDAY AUGUST 10 Opera, Ballet Djukaric, Singidunum Gallery, Knez Mihailova 40, 4pm • An Author and His City, Italian • Exhibition: Death of Karadjordje • Red Hat, Summer on Gardos, Gardos, and Classical Institute for Culture, Kneza Milosa 56, Petrovic, History Museum of Serbia, Zemun, 9pm WEDNESDAY AUGUST 01 9.30pm Trg Nikole Pasica 11, 5pm FRIDAY JULY 27 SUNDAY AUGUST 12 • An Author and His City, Italian THURSDAY AUGUST 16 SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 01 • Ballet: Blue Elephant, Institute for Culture, Kneza Milosa 56, • Pedjolino, Summer on Gardos, Contemporary Dance Troupe of the 9.30pm • Exhibition: Petar Joncic, Belgrade • Garden Bazar, Dorcol Platz, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm Opera House from Cairo, National Fortress, Stambol kapija Gallery, Dobracina 59b, 1pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, THURSDAY AUGUST 02 Kalemegdan, 3pm • Exhibition: Djordje Stanojevic, MONDAY AUGUST 13 6.30pm • Exhibition: Master 2017, Museum of History Museum of Serbia, Trg Nikole Contemporary Art, Vuka Karadzica SATURDAY AUGUST 18 Pasica 11, 4pm • Pinocchio’s Adventures, Summer SATURDAY JULY 28 18, 7pm on Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm • Exhibition: Belgrade, Singidunum • Exhibition: 60 Years of Radio MONDAY SEPTEMBER 03 • Opera: Don Giovanni (Mozart), Gallery, Knez Mihailova 40, 7pm Beograd 2, Radio Beograd, THURSDAY AUGUST 16 Art Ensemble “Stanislav Binicki”, Hilandarska 2, 6pm • Exhibition: From City to City, Dusan Gregory Buchalter (conductor), FRIDAY AUGUST 03 Gerzic Gera, Grad Cultural Center, • We are waiting for a baby, Summer Kombank Hall, Trg Nikole Pasica 5a, MONDAY AUGUST 20 Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm on Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm 9pm • Exhibition: Spring Garden of Secrets, Nikola Dzafo, Drina Gallery, • Exhibition: Retrospective exhibition TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 04 FRIDAY AUGUST 17 SUNDAY JULY 29 Andricev venac 4, 3pm "Cleaner", Marina Abramovic, MSUB • Exhibition: In Search of Absolute Salon, Pariska 14, 4pm • Exhibition: Nevena Vuksanovic, • Lie to Me, Summer on Gardos, Gardos, • Opera: Don Giovanni (Mozart), Painting, Nedeljko Gvozdenovic, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Zemun, 9pm Art Ensemble “Stanislav Binicki”, SANU Gallery, Knez Mihailova 35, 5pm WEDNESDAY AUGUST 22 Studentski trg 5, 7pm Gregory Buchalter (conductor), SATURDAY AUGUST 18 Kombank Hall, Trg Nikole Pasica 5a, SATURDAY AUGUST 04 • “Berlin kaputt”, Yugoslavian ‘80s WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 05 9pm Movie Production, Studentski Grad • Gangrene Society, Summer on • Exhibition: Crossroads Abstraction, Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana • Exhibition: Heroes of Serbian and Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm SATURDAY AUGUST 11 Gallery ’73, Pozeska 83a, 3pm Djindjica 179, 8pm Spanish Sports, Cervantes Institute, Cika Ljubina 19, 3pm SUNDAY AUGUST 19 • Opera: Eugene Onegin SUNDAY AUGUST 05 THURSDAY AUGUST 23 (Tchaikovsky), Metropolitan THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 06 • Princes, Stories, Pirates and Books, Opera Broadcast, Robin Tacciati • Exhibition: Franko B- a Monument, • “Dorotej”, Yugoslavian ‘80s Movie Summer on Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, (conductor), Deborah Warner Eugster Gallery, Viline Vode bb, 3pm Production, Studentski Grad Cultural • 23rd Tapestry Biennial, Art Pavilion 8.30pm (director), Cineplexx Usce Shopping Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, Cvijeta Zuzoric, Mali Kalemegdan Center, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, 6pm MONDAY AUGUST 06 8pm 1, 7pm MONDAY AUGUST 20

SATURDAY AUGUST 25 • Exhibition: “Djuro Salaj” group FRIDAY AUGUST 24 SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 07 • Conceited Knight, Summer on exhibition, Akademija 28 Gallery, Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm Nemanjina 28, 3pm • Opera: Turandot (Puccini), • “Lov u mutnom”, Yugoslavian • Exhibition: Student of Faculty THURSDAY AUGUST 23 Metropolitan Opera Broadcast, ‘80s Movie Production, Studentski of Contemporary Arts, Belgrade Cineplexx Usce Shopping Center, TUESDAY AUGUST 07 Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Fortress, Stambol kapija Gallery, • Titanic Orchestra, Summer on Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, 6pm Djindjica 179, 8pm Kalemegdan, 3pm • Exhibition: Forensics of the Ancient Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm Age: 20 years of new archaeological SATURDAY AUGUST 25 SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 14 research Vinca, Gallery of Science and FRIDAY AUGUST 24 Exhibitions Technology SANU, Djure Jaksica 2, 5pm • Yu Funk, Museum of Yugoslavia, • 57th October Salon, different • Ljubinka & Desanka, Summer on Mihaila Mike Jankovica 6, 8pm locations, 7pm and Events WEDNESDAY AUGUST 08 Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm • “Kraljevski voz”, Yugoslavian FRIDAY JULY 27 , Studentski • Exhibition: The Immaterial Cultural ‘80s Movie Production SATURDAY AUGUST 25 Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Theatre • Exhibition: Sculptors of Serbia, Heritage of Serbia, Ethnographic Museum, Studentski trg 13, 2pm Djindjica 179, 8pm • Marriage Love, Summer on Gardos, Art Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzoric, Mali FRIDAY JULY 27 Gardos, Zemun, 9pm Kalemegdan 1, 10am SUNDAY AUGUST 26 • Exhibition: Single Frames, FRIDAY AUGUST 10 • Good Man, Summer on Gardos, Johannes Mundinger, Kvaka 22, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm SUNDAY AUGUST 26 • Food Fest, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina • “Laf u srcu”, Yugoslavian ‘80s Ruzveltova 39, 5pm Movie Production, Studentski Grad 59b, 1pm SATURDAY JULY 28 • Hansel & Gretel, Summer on • Exhibition: Kenya, Tanzania, Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm SATURDAY JULY 28 Djindjica 179, 8pm Uganda: 1937-1939, Museum of • Lovers, Summer on Gardos, Gardos, • Exhibition: Dr Jelena Ignjatovic, African Art, Andre Nikolica 14, 3pm MONDAY AUGUST 27 MONDAY AUGUST 27 Zemun, 9pm Belgrade Fortress, Stambol kapija Gallery, Kalemegdan, 3pm SATURDAY AUGUST 11 SUNDAY JULY 29 • Snow Queen, Summer on Gardos, • “My Part-time Dad”, Yugoslavian • Exhibition: System Error, Jana Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm ‘80s Movie Production, Studentski Stojkovic, Pro3or Gallery, Koce • Food Fest, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina • The Frog Prince, Summer on Gardos, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Popovica 9, 4pm 59b, 1pm Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm THURSDAY AUGUST 30 • Exhibition: Milija Nesic, Zepter Djindjica 179, 8pm SUNDAY JULY 29 Museum, Knez Mihailova 42, 3pm MONDAY JULY 30 • Do not Close your Eyes, Summer on TUESDAY AUGUST 28 Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm • July’s Vinyl Market, Dom Omladine, SUNDAY AUGUST 12 • Jack and the Beanstalk, Summer on Makedonska 22, 10am • Roxy Music Lecture, Studentski Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm FRIDAY AUGUST 31 • Art Market, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 4pm Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana MONDAY JULY 30 • Exhibition: Rulers and Wives, Djindjica 179, 7pm THURSDAY AUGUST 02 • School for Lovers, Summer on Konak knjeginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime • “Jos ovaj put”, Yugoslavian ‘80s Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm • Exhibition: Illusive Reality, Jelena Markovica 8, 5pm Movie Production, Studentski Grad • Life is a Loto, Summer on Gardos, Jovanov, Atrijum Gallery, Knez Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Gardos, Zemun, 9pm FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 13 Mihailova 56, 3pm MONDAY AUGUST 13 Djindjica 179, 8pm • Exhibition: Belgrade performance SATURDAY AUGUST 04 • 52nd Belgrade International Theatre art scene - One insight, Dom • Exhibition: Secession, Jovan Cvijic WEDNESDAY AUGUST 29 Festival (BITEF), opening, 8pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 5pm Museum, Jelene Cetkovic 5, 4pm • I am singing my own Blues, Summer • “How I Was Systematically on Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 9pm SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 14 TUESDAY JULY 31 TUESDAY AUGUST 14 Destroyed by an Idiot”, Yugoslavian ‘80s Movie Production, Studentski MONDAY AUGUST 06 • 52nd Belgrade International Theatre • Poetry Night, Ivan V. Lalic, Polet, • Exhibition: Muni, Paja Jovanovic Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana • Adventures of Boca Zloca, Summer Festival (BITEF), Yugoslav Drama Cetinjska 15, 7pm Museum, Kralja Milana 21/IV, 4pm Djindjica 179, 8pm on Gardos, Gardos, Zemun, 8.30pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm

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Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Printing: stamparija d.o.o. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight BIRN editorial team: COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, [email protected] Circulation: 2,000