ITALY 2017-18

www.liberoguide.com 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com

Mapei -Città del Tricolore i n t ro

Match day at Juventus unpunished, a blight on the game. In need of their regular revenue, some clubs do little to rock the boat with their hard-core fans, the ultras.

Given Italy’s huge distances – it’s 1,200km between and – visiting support is often scant. Only the most loyal make it as far as , on the southern coast of , closer to Italy is the home of calcio and classy ranking teams. Sampdoria, Parma and respective city rivals, Torino and Lazio, Tunisia than to mainland Italy. clubs of great tradition – many still Fiorentina all made European finals. remain in arenas originally adapted playing in ageing communal for Olympic showcases. Average home seasons. Visit or on a Station to station from the pre- and immediate post-war AC and Internazionale have gates for either in 2016-17 were in the match day and you probably won’t notice Italy is well served by leading budget eras. since been sold to Chinese backers 20,000 range. anything different. Not so in . airlines easyJet (www..com) and struggle to fill the San Siro, one and (www.ryanair.com), from Crowds are down, revenues too. The of football’s great stadiums and most A single-stadium The only other city where a single the UK and other parts of , and 1990 World Cup, played out when the famous . arrangement also applies to two other club is demonstrably worshipped is within the country itself. From the UK ultra movement and all its imaginative cities, and , whose title , enraptured by Fiorentina provinces, flybe (www.flybe.com) and pageantry were at their height, The main success story has been wins belong to the past. despite a lack of silverware. Jet2 (www.jet2.com) also go to major seems a very long time ago. Juventus, record (and current) Italian destinations. champions who built their own If any club is going to break the Juventus Just as many stadia have barely Back then, Milan was the football stadium on the outskirts of their home monopoly, it’s Napoli, whose credible changed in decades, some attitudes (www.britishairways. capital of the world, the derby city of Turin. AS Roma are following title challenges and reasonably healthy seem stuck in the dark ages. Terrace com) flies to some Italian 20 cities. was a ferocious affair between two high- their example in Rome. Each of their crowd figures now date back several racism goes on unnoticed and Cash-strapped national carrier

liberoguide.com 2 ITALY 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com

Pescara and Cesena have reached Serie drop from to D – the bottom-

A without setting the world alight during placed finishers, plus two decided by i n Udine Bergamo the regular season in . playout between those between 16th and

th t MILAN 19 positions at season’s end. The three lowest finishers in drop ro Verona automatically to Serie B, whose top two is the highest level of the Lega Turin clubs go up. The last promotion place is Nazionale Dilettanti (www.lnd.it), a decided by play-offs between the next six network of amateur leagues stretching Genoa Sassuolo/ Reggio Emilia finishers, unless the team finishing third down six flights to the . has a 14-point margin over the one in In theory, the lowliest village outfit can fourth. As this is extremely unlikely, play- ascend to Serie A. Bologna offs take place, first a one-leg preliminary round, the lower-placed teams away, then The Italian Cup, (www. Florence semi-finals and final of two legs. legaseriea.it/it/tim-cup/calendario-e- risultati), is less prestigious than its Four teams drop down from Serie B to counterpart in England or . It Serie C, the bottom three automatically. has no pre-qualification process – of ROME If the team finishing 18th has a minimum the 78 teams, the nine from Serie D four-point lead over the 19th, they stay up. are chosen by the Lega, usually the If not, 18th and 19th play off over two legs second-placed finishers from last – or rather playout as term such season. The 24 from Serie C are the NAPLES Benevento relegation deciders. highest-placed non-promotees from the previous May. Categorised into three 20-team regional leagues (Girone A, B and C), Serie C is Until the quarter-finals, each round Cagliari Crotone the last professional division – it’s also is seeded but, unlike in , referred to as Lega Pro (www.lega-pro. in favour of the higher-ranked club, (www.alitalia.com/gb_en) has Italy’s extensive network of access to the group stage of the com). which gets home advantage. Ties are a few routes left. As of 2018, Milan- motorways (www.autostrade.it/ Champions League. Fifth means the decided over one game, extra-time based Air Italy (www.airitaly.com/en) autostrade_en-gis/percorso.do) is Europa League group stage, sixth, Only each regional group winner goes up and penalties, apart from the two- is picking up the slack. interspersed by regular toll gates Europa League second qualifying to Serie B, everyone else down to tenth legged semi-final. (www.aiscat.it/inautostrada_en/ round. The Italian Cup winners (see (!!) place reaches the byzantine play-offs. A cheap, extensive rail system is pedaggio.htm?nome=pedaggio), below) also qualify for the EL group For these, the First Round is one match, The final is usually played at Rome’s run by Trenitalia (www.trenitalia. priced about €9 per 100km. Payment stage. any drawn games decided by previous . com), competition provided on high- is possible by credit card. league position. Then come two-leg speed intercity lines by Italo (www. Serie B (www.legab.it) consists of 22 knock-outs. The winners gain a berth in the Europa italotreno.it/en). There is no national Tables & trophies teams, and those finishing between League – unless already through to the bus carrier, only random regional The top four finishers of the 20-club third and eighth make the promotion Amateur Serie D consists of nine regional Champions League. If so, the runners- services. Serie A (www.legaseriea.it/en) gain play-offs. The likes of Benevento, leagues, each with 18 clubs. Nine clubs up do not qualify for Europe.

liberoguide.com 3 ITALY 2017-18 www.liberoguide.com

Torino FC tickets The same goes for purchases from Contents

the biglietteria at the stadium, usually 5 Benevento i n possible on a match day. Given the 6 comparatively low crowds, availability is 7 Bergamo t never too problematic these days. Few 8 Atalanta ro club shops distribute tickets. 9 Bologna 10 Bologna FC Re-sale agency viagogo (www.viagogo. 11 Cagliari it/Biglietti-Sport/Calcio/Serie-A) is also 12 very active in Italy. 13 Crotone 14 FC Crotone The most expensive tickets (around 15 Ferrara €50-60) will be in the Tribuna Centrale, 16 SPAL then Tribuna Laterale or Distinti (around 17 Florence €30-40). The cheapest (around €20) are 18 Fiorentina behind the goals in the , usually 19 Genoa indicated Sud or Nord. This will be with 20 the ultras. Away tickets are rarely sold 21 Genoa on the day. Prices usually rise by at 22 Sampdoria least 15% for games against the Milan 23 Milan giants or Juventus. 24 San Siro 25 AC Milan Match-day sales are common, though 26 Internazionale not for visiting supporters. 27 Naples 28 Napoli Season’s dealings Teams taking part in Champions updated schedule for both Serie A Welcome to liberoguide.com! 29 Rome Serie A begins in late August and League fixtures the following midweek (www.gazzetta.it/Calcio/Serie-A) The digital travel guide for football fans, 30 Stadio Olimpico finishes in mid to late May. There’s a often play league games on the previous and Serie B (www.gazzetta.it/Calcio/ liberoguide.com is the most up-to-date 31 Lazio two-week break in January. Saturday rather than Sunday. Serie-B). resource, city-by-city, club-by-club, to 32 Roma the game across Europe. Using only 33 Sassuolo/Reggio Emilia Sunday is calcio day, though there Serie B runs from late August to the Entry level original photos and first-hand research, 34 Turin are usually a couple of games on a third week of May, with play-offs and Nearly all clubs distribute online most taken and undertaken over five seasons, 35 Juventus Saturday, at 6pm and 8.45pm. Sunday playouts into mid June. Most games are of them using either listicket (www. liberoguide.com has been put together 36 Torino is also staggered, usually with a game played on Saturday at 3pm, usually with listicket.com/ticketing/home.html) or to enhance every football weekend and 37 Udine at 12.30pm and at least one marquee one fixture on Friday evening and one ticketone (www.ticketone.it). Both also Euro night experience. From airport to 38 Udinese fixture at 8.45pm, straddling the main on Monday evening. have outlets across Italy. arena, downtown sports to hotel, 39 Verona kick-off time of 3pm. Kick-off for liberoguide.com helps you get the best 40 Stadio Bentegodi midweek fixtures is 8.45pm, often with Milan sports daily Gazzetta dello Sport You will need to provide ID details or, if out of your visit to football’s furthest 41 Chievo one game at 6pm. (www.gazzetta.it) provides a regularly going in person, show your passport. corners and showcase stadiums. 42 Hellas Verona

liberoguide.com 4 ITALY 2017-18 Benevento www.liberoguide.com/benevento

Hotel President Benevento Benevento

Bar La Buca

Benevento Rione Libertà, on the restaurant. Reliable Grand Hotel same side of the river as the stadium Italiano has been in the same family a 15-20min walk away. Journey time is since 1923. 90min. A local bus service runs from the main train station through town, Beer but timetables are a complete work Bars dot the sidestreets off main corso of fiction. There’s a taxi firm by the Garibaldi. On via Capitano Pasquale station, phone number +39 0824 50341. De Juliis, Il Tricorno is a classic bar/ pizzeria, decked out in Benevento Bed flags. On via Capitano Salvatore There’s no lodging around the stadium. Rampone, the Agora is an equally The nearest hotel, business-friendly rustic Benevento hang-out. Craft beer, the nearby Santa Maria degli Angeli, From Arrivals, an Alibus runs every UNA Il Molino on via dei Mulini, is TV sport and food share the limelight at Benevento became the Gennaro Meomartini, 20-30mins to Napoli Centrale station decent but isolated. Alter Ego at via Giuseppe Manciotti 16. after the lawyer who funded its (€4, journey time 15min). A train to East of Naples in rural , modernisation. Both grounds are Benevento then takes 1hr 45min, In the historic centre, Albergo della Right on the main street, Bar La Buca Benevento is an old Roman city, south of the river Sabato, a 15-minute changing at Caserta onto the swish Corte on vico Papa Vittorio III is a cosy at No.70 is a handy spot to plot up and home of Benevento Calcio, the tenth walk from the historic town centre. Frecciargento. Online prices are €18. spot with doubles in the €50 range. read the day’s Gazzetta. incarnation of the city’s main football The main train station for the sleek Alternatively, there’s also a direct Also close, the Hotel Villa Traiano on club. Frecciargento service from Caserta is regional train from Napoli Centrale, viale dei Rettori exudes old-school Of the pubs, Sherlock on viale dei at the diagonally opposite end of town, also 1hr 45min, single €6. class, near the Arch of Trajan. The Rettori has TV football and ales from Based at the , the north-west of the centre. President by the Teatro Massimo is the Whitstable Bay stable, while Witches made it to Serie A in 2017 Benevento station is north-west of equally classic. near the Teatro Romano, warren-like then contrived to lose every single Bearings the city centre, a 10min walk along Good Fellows concentrates more on game until December.Opened in 1979, The nearest airport is Naples, 93km viale Principe di Napoli into town. Towards the train station, the standard European beers. Near the station, Ciro Vigorito honours a deceased (58 miles) west of Benevento and 6km Alternatively, regional train company Antiche Terme Hotel overlooks the Tavola Calda Bar Legend offers benefactor, just as previous ground, (3.5 miles) north-west of Naples itself. EAV runs from Napoli Centrale to river, best viewed from its elevated outdoor seating and TV football.

liberoguide.com 5 ITALY 2017-18 Benevento Calcio www.liberoguide.com/benevento-calcio

Excellent Café ID is required for all ticket purchases c Cal Benevento in Italy.

For all information, contact the club at [email protected]

For most Serie A fixtures, it’s €25 in the Curva Sud or Nord, €30 along the sidelines in the Distinti, and €48-€60 in the Tribuna Inferiore and Superiore. For under-10s, you pay a reduced price of

€14-€34. io Benevento station Shop The Benevento Calcio Store (Mon- Sat 9.30am-1.30pm, 4.30pm-8.30pm) is at via del Pomerio 43, behind the Trajan Arch in the centre. Replica shirts, baseball caps, flags and scarves Stadio Ciro Vigorito sparkle in bright red and yellow. Stalls are set up at the ground on match days. who have also brought the stadium up Alternatively, the regional EAV train Tickets are sold at the Mirage bar on Benevento Calcio to scratch. A two-tiered arena set close from Napoli Centrale (90min) goes to downtown piazza Roma. Another outlet Bars to the pitch, it has seen capacity rise to Benevento Rione Libertà, on the same is the Tabaccheria Collarile at piazza The Ponte Santa Maria degli Angeli Setting unwanted records for runs of 16,867 individual seats. side of the river as the stadium, 15-20 San Modesto 36, on the same side of across the river provides access to two defeats in Serie A, Benevento Calcio minutes away. The train terminates at the river as the stadium. Both open on pre-match bars. Excellent Café has a (beneventocalcio.club) have ensured Four stands are backdropped by the Benevento Centrale. There are 11 trains Sundays. shaded terrace by the roundabout. On that their first season in Italy’s top flight hills of Monteguardia. The main stand is a day (not Sundays or holidays), the last the corner of via Girolamo Vitelli, Sweet in 2017-18 will not be followed by a divided into the Tribuna Superiore and one back to Naples from Benevento At the stadium, the ticket offices behind Café offers a large tap of Peroni and second. Inferiore, with the Distinti opposite. The around 8pm. the main stand operate Mon-Fri, 10am- chairs on the pavement. home end is the Curva Sud, away the 12.30pm & 3pm-6pm, and also on the Until a goal from George Pușcaș won Curva Nord, half also allocated to local Local buses are unreliable. Sat before a match day. Further down via Santa Colomba the promotion play-off at the Stadio support. towards the stadium, Caffetteria Ciro Vigorito in June 2017, Benevento A taxi between main station and Online sales are through Listicket Melgrace is handy but bland. had only ever experienced lower-flight Transport stadium should cost around €10-€12. (listicket.com/ticketing/home.html). football since 1929. The stadium is poorly served by public At the Esso petrol station by the transport. It’s a 20min walk from the Tickets For match-day sales, try Mirage first stadium, the Ewa Café sells snacks Behind these recent achievements are centre, or 40min from the main train Even with stadium capacity at 16,000, before trekking all the way to the and alcohol, its terrace facing the main the Vigorito brothers, Ciro and Oreste, station. availability is rarely a problem. stadium. stand.

liberoguide.com 6 ITALY 2017-18 Bergamo www.liberoguide.com/bergamo Bergamo Bergamo

Home of one of Italy’s most enduring clubs, Atalanta, Bergamo is an affluent city in divided into Upper and Lower Towns. Its local economy has benefitted from its status as a budget- air hub convenient for nearby Milan. Birreria Bergamo Alta The team owes its origins to wealthy Swiss emigrés who founded a Foot Ball Club Bergamo in 1903 – although A more conventional B&B is the Atalanta were actually formed in Accademia, on via Baracca, halfway October 1907. between town and the stadium, close to the equally affordable Santa Caterina Their first pitch was in via Maglio del on via Alberico da Rosciate. by the railway lines, the other side of today’s station. After World War I, On piazzale Repubblica, the Excelsior Atalanta moved out to Daste, towards San Marco is a traditional four-star today’s budget airport of Orio al Serio. while revamped four-star Hotel Piemontese offers a convenient bed At the time there were two rival teams, opposite the station. Atalanta and Bergamasca, forced to play-off to access the Lombardy division Beer of the league in 1919. Upper Town haunts near the funicular Hotel Excelsior San Marco won it but by the following stop include Tucans, the Fly Pub and February, the two clubs had merged, the Birreria Bergamo Alta, with seven adopting black and blue as a symbol of Atalanta went on to play more than Bearings Bed beers on tap. Near the Basilica, Pub the union. 50 seasons in Italy’s top flight. Local Orio al Serio Airport is 3.5km (2.5 miles) The Bergamo Tourist Office Sant’Orsola on the street of the same rivalries around Lombardy include south-east of Bergamo, just outside the (visitbergamo.net/en) has a hotel- name shows sport a-plenty. Thus Italian football had another , AC Milan and Inter. city limits. It also serves Milan 45km booking service. Nerazzurri to complement the ones in (28 miles) away. An ATB Airport bus In the Lower Town, the key place is Milan. The club offices and store are located (every 20mins; €2.10/€3 on board, €5 Taking advantage of the early-morning the evening-only Ritual Pub (via San out in Zingonia, south-west of the city. with 24hr city transport) takes 20mins budget-air traffic, locals have converted Francesco D’Assissi 1), off the main In 1928, Atalanta moved to a new to reach Bergamo train station and then their flats for tourist accommodation, drag from the station. stadium north-east of town, first named Relegated from Serie B in 2013, onto the High Town. The same company such as Early Leaving Bergamo after a Fascist martyr, Mario Brumana, AlbinoLeffe, a merger of Albino and runs city buses, €1.25 a single ticket, Airport, the nearest lodging to the Near the station, the Escondido aka today called the Stadio Atleti Azzurri Leffe, also play at the Atleti Azzuri €3.50 a day pass. A taxi (+39 035 451 stadium. Airport transfer is included in Guarany (viale Papa Giovanni XXIII) is a d’Italia. d’Italia. 9090) to town should cost around €15. the price. locals’ spot that screens matches.

liberoguide.com 7 ITALY 2017-18 Atalanta www.liberoguide.com/atalanta

Tickets A

Tickets are distributed at local lotto talanta outlets, including viale Papa Giovanni XXIII No.58 and via Giuseppe Garibaldi, both central. Online sales are taken care of by Listicket.

At the stadium, the ticket offices on pizza Goisis are currently closed – on match days, use the ones on viale Atalanta Store Cesare. Remember that you need to show ID in order to purchase. Curva Sud (sectors S09-S17), while sectors DN4-DN7, DN9) are for away You’ll pay around €50 for the best fans, accessed where piazzale Goisis seats in the Tribuna Centrale, less than meets via del Lazzaretto. €25 for a seat in the opposite Tribuna The main stand, Tribuna Centrale, is Creberg and less than €20 for a place accessed via piazzale Goisis, while on the Curva Sud or Pisani. the cheaper Distinti Nord seats are between the Curva Pisani and main Shop stand. The facing Creberg Stand on Atalanta have no store in town, only at viale Cesare contains both covered the Orio Center out by the airport. You’ll and uncovered seats. find it on the first floor – turn left as you exit the escalator. Transport The best option is the pink No.6 bus Bars Atleti Azzuri d’Italia that not only stops at Stadio but goes The best two bars are on viale Cesare, around the ground; Nos. 9A and 9B behind the Tribuna Creberg. In the Europe after nearly three decades. – the current ground feels stop at Stadio, on piazzale Goisis. wonderful Bar Stadio (No.16E), old Atalanta Atalanta started out in 1907, merging somewhat outdated. These set off from Porta Nuova, at locals leaf through the day’s sports with Bergamasca in 1920 and adopting the far end of the main road (viale paper beneath black-and-white images Competing for more than half-a-centu- the colours of black and blue as a Despite talk of a new stadium, the Papa Giovanni XXIII) that leads from of Atalanta in the post-war era. Across ry in Serie A and enjoying purple patch- symbol of the new union. needs of Atalanta – and third-flight the station. Turn right at the end for the road, built into a newspaper kiosk, es in the late 1940s and late 1980s, groundshare side AlbinoLeffe – are very Fermata 101, by via Camozzi 28, a cabin-like café (No.15) is filled with Atalanta Bergamasca Calcio (www. The club moved into a new stadium modest indeed. beside the UGF Banca. Bus No.3 runs Atalanta souvenirs. atalanta.it) have a long tradition but a in 1928, today’s 25,000-capacity to Stadio from the funicular stop in the near-empty trophy cabinet. In 2016-17, Atleti Azzuri d’Italia. Despite gradual Atalanta fans occupy the Curva Nord Upper Town. No bus runs directly from On piazzale delle Olimpiadi, in the La Dea (‘The Goddess’) enjoyed an un- modifications – a roof over the East (Federico Pisani) on via Fossoli/piazzale the train station to the stadium, a walk Villa Sport, Garden offers a full menu, expectedly good season, qualifying for Stand and the disappearance of the delle Olimpiadi, and one half of the of at least 30mins. including a €25 Bergamasco special.

liberoguide.com 8 ITALY 2017-18 Bologna www.liberoguide.com/bologna

On via Galliera, the Atlantic offers three- Bologna star lodgings, also found on via della Zecca at Albergo Centrale. La Magnolia B&B at via Andrea Costa 45 has cheaper rooms halfway between town and the ground.

Empire By the stadium at via Porrettana 31, B&B Meloncello is a smart studio more suited Bearings to culture seekers. Bologna’s Airport 6km (3.7miles) north-west of town, connected Beer by regular BLQ shuttle (€6, journey Pubs abound in student-focused time 20mins) to the train station. The Bologna, particularly on and around same company runs city buses (€1.30 via Zamboni, where you find The single from tabacchi/€1.50 on board, €5 Cluricaune and nearby Empire. giornaliero day pass). Football-focused Celtic Druid sits on via A taxi (+039 051 372 727) to the station Caduti di Cefalonia in the heart of town. should cost €15 plus baggage, €18 at night. There’s another pub hub between the Basilica and the western edge of the Bed city centre. On via del Pratello, the Bologna Welcome has a room-booking Birreria del Pratello overflows with service. Opposite the station stand German brews while bohemian Mutenye nH Bologna de la Gare upscale Starhotels Excelsior Bologna schedules and follows TV matches. and four-star chain Mercure Bologna their number was Antonio Bernabéu, Under Hungarian coach Árpád Weisz, Centro. Nearby, BrewDog on via San Valentino Bologna brother of Santiago who would later Bologna became Italy’s top club in is the Bologna branch of this global transform Real . the run-up to war, before Weisz was Towards town, NH Bologna De La Aberdeen ale chain. On via , The A one-club city, Bologna has celebrated murdered in Auschwitz. A plaque on Gare offers late Sunday check-outs Irish Times is the oldest pub in town, and more titles than Rome, Florence or Still under foreign influence, Bologna stadium wall is dedicated to his memory. while on via dell’Indipendenza, Hotel puts up a maxi screen for big matches. Naples – but most were pre-war and the played a successful Danubian style, Internazionale screens matches in the last came in 1964. winning titles and moving to a new The city’s importance to the Italian bar. On the same street, Grand Hotel On the other side of the station, where stadium, the Littoriale (later named game was recognised when Bologna Majestic Già Baglioni lives up to its via Serlio meets via Raimondi, the Black Bologna FC date back to 1909. Dall’Ara), built in 1927. It staged two was chosen as a 1990 World Cup venue. billing while Tre Vecchi feels old-school. Fire Pub shows pay-TV games in HD. The game was first played here by games for the 1934 World Cup, including This was where scored In the same Zan Hotel group, Il Canale international students, based in the city a classy duel between the Austrian his famous last-minute goal against on via Bertiera is more basic, as is Finally, opposite the station, AB is a of Europe’s oldest university. Among Wunderteam and . Belgium. nearby Paradise Bologna. simple bar that also sells BFC souvenirs.

liberoguide.com 9 ITALY 2017-18 Bologna FC www.liberoguide.com/bologna-fc

Tickets go on sale two weeks ahead, FCBologna online from the club or via vivaticket, either online (bolognafc.vivaticket.it/eng) or from its local outlets, including at Bologna Welcome on piazza Maggiore.

On match days, the ticket offices on via Andrea Costa and piazza della Pace open 3hrs before kick-off. Stadio Renato Dall’Ara In all cases, ID must be presented. The home end, the Curva Bulgarelli, is on via Andrea Costa. Home fans also Shops occupy the Curva San Luca opposite, The Bologna FC Official Store (Mon- while away fans are allocated sectors Sat 10am-7.30pm, match days) at the A and B alongside, the Curva Ospiti, stadium is on via dello Sport. In town, accessed on via Menabue. Laterali there’s more Bologna merchandise at seats in the Distinti provide a good view. the BFC Store (daily 10.30am- Tribuna Coperta is the covered main 7.30pm) in the Galleria Cavour. stand. Bologna’s current second kit features Stadio Renato Dall’Ara Transport a red-and-blue sash created from 100 Bus No.21 runs from the train station star BFC names. champions while Bologna had suffered (on the right of the forecourt as you exit) Bologna FC the loss of long-term president, Renato to Stadio, a journey of about 15mins Bars Dall’Ara – the players couldn’t attend and a dozen stops. Bus No.14 also On via Andrea Costa, the Pizzeria Bologna FC (bolognafc.it/en) are a the funeral. Led by captain Giacomo runs along Andrea Costa, from central San Gennaro (No.172) and Ciclope hallowed name in Italian football whose Bulgarelli, Bologna triumphed 2-0. Rizzoli, while No.20 from Rizzoli calls at restaurant (No.190) stand either side of glory days came before the war. Success the Dello Sport stop by the away end. the stadium, with the fish-oriented La has been all too rare since – and Bulgarelli also helped the Rossoblù Langouste (No.210) further along. relegation all too frequent. to two Italian cups but Bologna would Tickets never again challenge for the title. The club advises to buy tickets in Behind the Curva San Luca, Billi Bar Bologna FC Store Formed in 1909, Bologna were one of advance, €60 (€70 on the day) for the 1833 has been serving coffee and cakes the first clubs to challenge the early The Stadio Renato Dall’Ara was Tribuna Coperta, €35/€40 in Distinti and since its name suggests. Genoa-Milan- hegemony. originally named the Littoriale after an president who died before the 1964 title €15/€18 in the Curva Bulgarelli. Under- On piazza della Pace, Bar Maratona elite rank of Roman soldier. A grand play-off, the stadium was modernised 18s are charged half-price. displays a signed shirt while at via In 1964, the Rossoblù faced Inter in a arena of classic red brick, it welcomed for the 1990 World Cup with the red Porrettana 55, Caffetteria San Luca has title play-off. Days before, the Milanese Mussolini for its opening fixture in 1927. brick, portico and Marathon Tower still If Milan, Inter, Juve or Roma are in town, a back restaurant and football chatter side had been crowned European Renamed the Dall’Ara after the club in place. then prices rise considerably. out front.

liberoguide.com 10 ITALY 2017-18 Cagliari www.liberoguide.com/cagliari Cagliari In town,chic T Hotel on via Giudicati offers a spa while the mid-range 4 Mori is convenient for port and station. B&Bs line via Garibaldi, where you find the upscale Cagliari Boutique Rooms.

At the budget end, Hostel Marina off via Manno is set in a former 16th-century The Cork monastery.

Beer Sardinian beer Ichnusa is brewed near Cagliari. Sample it around the Old Town, Marina and Poetto Beach.

To catch the match, try the Germanic Bier Keller on viale . Another option is Old Square, on corso Vittorio La Paillote Emanuele II, Irish-themed with Sky TV. The Cork is in similar vein, on via single), and bus and trolleybus network Alighieri. run by CTM (€1.30 single, €2 integrato Antico Caffè ticket combined with a metro journey). Many brews are provided at Il Merlo The €3.30 integrato day ticket is valid for Parlante (via Portoscalas 69) and the In 2017, the was put era of the late 1960s and early 1970s. metro and bus. Beer Garden on via Angioy. Cagliari up beside it, while a permanent stadium Although the Rossoblù haven’t come is built instead. The quick-fix Sardegna close to a since, their recent Cagliari station is by the waterfront, Locals gather at the Antico Caffè on Capital of Sardinia, Cagliari is the only Arena will be taken down in 2021-22. long stint in Serie A has kept a fan base close to the centre but a steep walk. piazza Constituzione. There’s a prime place to have landed the Italian title hungry yet loyal. Stadio Sant’Elia is further down the view from hilltop cocktail bar Libarium off the mainland. In the near 50 years Cagliari first played at via Pola, near waterfront, a bus or taxi journey away. Nostrum on via Santa Croce. since, flagship club Cagliari have the railway station. As a port city, the Bearings maintained a regular presence in the Sardinian capital was open to foreign is 7km (4 miles) Bed Old Cagliari players frequent fish top flight despite the lack of a regular influence and the first game was played north-west of town, served by a railway The Cagliari Tourist Office lists hotels. restaurant La Stella Marina di home ground. between local students and Genoese link (€1.30, 7min journey time) every Montecristo (via Sardegna 140). sailors in 1902. 20min to Cagliari station. A taxi (+39 The nearest lodging to the stadium The Sant’Elia stadium, inaugurated 070 400 101) should cost €20. is Bed & Breakfast Elia’s, bright and In summer, head for Emerson at Poetta for the first match after that 1970 With the introduction of non-Sardinian contemporary. Also close is the four- or, at Cala Fighera, La Paillote with championship win, was the base for players in the late 1920s, Cagliari made Public transport consists of the two-line star Hotel Panorama, with a pool and its own beach. Both are owned by ex- England’s group matches for Italia ’90. Serie B in 1931 before their golden ARST Metrocagliari network (€1.30 aptly panoramic restaurant. Cagliari star François Modesto.

liberoguide.com 11 ITALY 2017-18 Cagliari Calcio www.liberoguide.com/cagliari calcio

Sardegna Arena c Cagliari Cal

Cagliari 1920 Store io

Transport For major fixtures in 2017-18, it’s €30 to Bus No.6 runs from central via Dante, sit in the Curva Sud or Nord, €45 in the viale Regina Margherita and via Bonaria Distinti Laterale, a sideline seat towards close(ish) to the station to the Sant’Elia/ the corner flags. You pay €70 nearer the Sardegna Arena. From focal piazza halfway line in the Distinti Centrale. The Giovanni XXIII near the Opera House, best seats are in the Tribuna Centrale, you can also take bus No.3, journey time either Blù (€80) or Rosso (€100). around 15-20min. Everywhere but either Curva, it’s €15-€20 cheaper for women, under-18s and over- A taxi from Cagliari station shouldn’t take 65s, and €15 anywhere for under-12s, Sardegna Arena more than ten minutes, the fare around availability willing. €12. The title won at the Amsicora, the Incoming owner Tommaso Giulini, For lesser opposition, prices drop down to Cagliari Calcio new champions then moved to the a Milanese entrepreneur, oversaw Tickets & shop €12 for a place in the Curva, and €10-€15 Sant’Elia. Controversial businessman promotion back to Serie A in 2016, The club has two outlets, the main one at cheaper elsewhere. Forever linked with the landmark acquired the club then the move into the Sardegna largo Carlo Felice 76, the Cagliari 1920 title win of 1970 and the iconic striker in 1992. Behind the scenes, chaos Arena. Store (daily 9am-8.30pm), close to the Bars who helped achieve it, , reigned. Along with a rapid changing Old Square pub in town. There’s a smaller Over the Canale Palma by the Hotel Cagliari (cagliaricalcio.net) are the of coaches, Cagliari saw the closure Occupying the former car park of the shop (daily 9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm) in the Panorama, the Cafè Etnico (via Rockfeller flagship club of Sardinia. of the Sant’Elia followed by a long- Sant’Elia, the ground is an all-seater piazza L’Unione Sarda mall by Santa 39) is a convivial spot serving light snacks, running saga to find a new one. holding just over 16,000, 3,000 places Gilla station, one stop/1.5km north of a 15min walk via pedestrian walkway Founded in 1920, the Rossoblù have covered in the main stand. Two tiers Cagliari main train station. Tickets (ID from the stadium, itself set in a desolate, spent a third of their history in the top Now Cagliari are back at the Sant’Elia sit behind each goal, the Curva Sud required) are sold as well as red-and- bar-free wasteland. Away from Sant’Elia flight, first gaining promotion the very complex, a rapidly erected Sardegna and Curva Nord, away fans allocated a blue merchandise. but on a spit of land close to the former season that Riva came on board, 1963- Arena opened in September 2017 to section of the Nord. stadium of Is Arenas, La Marinella is a 64. Six years later, Riva’s goals brought serve the club until 2021-22 while a There are also online sales through quality, calcio-centric, seaview restaurant the Scudetto to Cagliari. new Sant’Elia is constructed alongside. The new Sant’Elia will hold 21,000. Listticket (www.listicket.it). popular with locals on Serie A Sundays.

liberoguide.com 12 ITALY 2017-18 Crotone www.liberoguide.com/crotone

Mara entrance for the Marrelli Hospital, the Crotone stadium an easy stroll away.

By the bus station, the B&B Margherita is well located for the stadium.

On via Vittoria, the Concordia is an old- school mid-range Italian hotel while B&B Vittoria on via Luigi Settino is comfortable.

On the seafront, four-star Palazzo Foti Palazzo Foti feels grand. Further along, nisí provides upscale B&B accommodation.

Beer Seafront viale Cristoforo Colombo buzzes with busy bars. Main pub The Bounty packs on big-match nights. Alcatraz No Way Out next door is a bar/ club for a younger crowd. Exodus On Colombo, La Casa Cantoniera is at the seafront, the club moved to its There are more flights to Lamezia, Terme and often at Catanzaro Lido. a busy restaurant with TV football Crotone current ground in 1946. 105km (65 miles) west of Crotone. Online, a single ticket is around €30- prominent. Opposite, Archito pizzeria Crotone-based Autolinee Romano runs €40. The train station is near the bus also shows the game. La Gassa Crotone is way down in the toe of Italy. Fortunes changed when the Vrenna a bus service (not Sun) at 6am (direct) terminus and stadium, 15-20min from d’Amante next door attracts a party Once part of Ancient Greece, and home brothers, Raffaele and Gianni, took and mid-afternoon (via Catanzaro) from the city centre. crowd. Cos’è Pazz offers pizzas galore to FC Crotone, it is closer to Corfu over the club. With more backing and the airport, journey times to Crotone and calcio. In between, the Columbus than to the nearest major Italian city of influence, Crotone sealed promotion to 2hr 15min/3hr. There are more services Taxi Crotone (+39 328 432 7731) is Natural Bar provides organic food and Naples. Serie A in 2016. The surprise defeat of between the airport and Catanzaro, central and offers airport transfers with football. Lazio provided unexpected salvation at again not Sundays. Lamezia, around €100. The is near Crotone the end of 2016-17 – the same may be On the beach, Lúys is a DJ spot while bus and train stations, overshadowed by needed in 2018. The bus terminal is on via di Vittorio Bed Exodus serves bathers in summer. a hospital. During the promotion season near the stadium. Romano also operates The nearest lodging to the stadium Tastefully retro Mara is a must. Panzibar of 2015-16, supporters checked in as Bearings local services, tickets €1.50. is modest B&B La Pietra Preziosa lends a Latin touch. patients to see the match below. Crotone’s Sant’Anna Airport closed in on via Bologna by the hospital. Half- Crotone itself has a bar quarter ranged 2016 but should reopen later in 2018. It is From Napoli Centrale, it’s a 5hr-6hr guesthouse, Il Tulipano (via dei Iapigi, off In town, the biggest screen for football is around a lively beach. First based here located 15km (9.5 miles) south of town. journey to Crotone by train, via Lamezia via dei Greci, +39 329 047 9193) is by the at sleek Bar Manhattan, on via Tedeschi.

liberoguide.com 13 ITALY 2017-18 FC Crotone www.liberoguide.com/fc-crotone

FC Crotone FC Crotone tickets CrotoneFC

Now in Serie A for two seasons running, FC Crotone (fccrotone.it) have climbed higher than any side representing this seaside town in Calabria.

Having performed the great escape to stay up in 2017, the Pythagoreans now need to find a few more angles to achieve similar in 2018.

Before Crotone’s promotion in 2016, Crotone was very much a soccer backwater.

In 1946, the Stadio Ezio Scida was completed, named after a team captain who had lost his life in a transport Stadio Ezio Scida FC Crotone mural accident. After decades of lower-flight football, the ground was adapted for Serie A use. Increasing capacity to Transport the Serie A season of 2017-18 is below Shop On main via Giovanni Paolo II, modest 13,500, since raised to an all-seated From Crotone train station, walk down 10,000. Stalls around the stadium proffer Tropical Bar by via dei Romani displays 16,000, the revamp saw the Curva Nord viale Stazione until you reach a small red-and-blue flags and scarves. For a its Crotone colours – a pleasant back fenced-off for away fans. roundabout, the junction with via di Advance sales are distributed online by wider selection of merchandise, near terrace overlooks the stadium. Vittorio, site of the main bus station. Listicket. the ground at corso Giuseppe Mazzini Part of the main stand, Tribuna 49, Corky Sport/Zeus stocks Crotone Still on via Giovanni Paolo II, by the Principale, is covered – the rest is open Those arriving by train should turn right On match days, a ticket office operates shirts and tracksuit tops. It closes on roundabout, the American Bar is a to the elements. into via di Vittorio, those by bus, turn left near the stadium on via di Vittorio, by Sundays, even match days. standard Italian spot for coffee and out of the terminus and straight down. Krotonlandia just inside the Parco delle sticky cakes. The home end furthest from the main You’ll see the stadium over the road to Mimose. For online and direct purchases Bars road, the temporary-looking two-tier your left. From town, the stadium is a you will need to supply ID. Drinking spots surround the stadium. On the other side of the ground by the Curva Sud, is named after Giorgio 15min walk. The best is by the ticket office, just hospital, Il Gattopardo is a regulars’ Manzulli, a Crotone fan who died in The cheapest seats are in the home inside the entrance to Krotonlandia on bar where via Bologna and via XXV tragic circumstances. Tickets Curva Sud, €25, rising to €35 and €45 via di Vittorio. A kiosk operates outside Aprile meet. Venture down via Bologna Despite a modest capacity of 16,000 in the Distinti. It’s €60-€80 to sit in the while the Bar delle Mimose displays for pocket-sized Aladin, and, usually Opposite the main stand is the Tribuna games rarely sell out, not even for top main stand. Prices rise by €10-€50 for Crotone shirts and has a gazebo where more lively and calcio-focused, Bar La Distinti. opposition. The average attendance for games with Juve, Inter, Milan or Roma. a TV shows Serie A news all afternoon. Capasa.

liberoguide.com 14 ITALY 2017-18 Ferrara www.liberoguide.com/ferrara

Also on this side of the Castello, the Ferrara Hotel Europa dates back to 1861 when it hosted royalty.

For something cheaper, the Albergo San Romano comprises 15 comfortable rooms between the castle and the canal.

Beer Birraria Giori On via San Romano in the centre, Birra Frara purveys its own artisanal Tickets are €1.30, a giornaliero day pass beers. The wonderful Antico Cafè, at €3.50, from newspaper kiosks. via Bersaglieri del Po 25E, also offers lesser-known brews. This cosy, bare- Radio Taxi Ferrara (+39 0532 900 900) is brick hidey-hole shows its SPAL support a reliable local service. with flags and team photos.

Bed Anglophile corner bar Il Molo on via The nearest lodging to the stadium is the Contrari establishes pub credentials with Hotel Orologio, a four-star close to the football scarves and TV sport. canal, with a spa, bar and restaurant. Sebastian Pub Beneath the Castle, Birraria Giori On main viale Cavour, functional four- dates back to 1881, a bar/brewery set In recent years, the club merged with viale Cavour by the Castello Estense in star Hotel Astra is still within easy reach. in a pretty gazebo, outside tables set Ferrara nearby Giacomense to become SPAL the city centre. Journey time is 60min, on historic cobblestones. Opposite, the 2013, at the initiative of incoming owners, single €16. Closer to town, Hotel Touring has SKY Caffe Divino specialises in rarer ales and Ferrara is a UNESCO World Heritage laminate magnates the Colombarinis. Italia in each room, a spa and quality fine . Site a half-hour train ride from Bologna. An Aerobus also runs every 11min from breakfasts. Half- or full-board deals Tourists stroll its picturesque historic Recent success has seen a rapid the airport to Bologna station (25min), available. Main Street sits on viale Cavour, with centre, around moated medieval Castello rebuilding and expanding of the tickets €6. Paulaner and Sardinian Ichnusa on Estense. Comunale, now called Stadio Paolo On the main square, Annunziata is sleek draught, and football screened. Mazza, with more work to follow in 2018. From there, the fastest train to Ferrara and chic. Nearby, equally classy Hotel Successive promotions thrust local club (€4.75) is every 1-2hrs and takes 30min. Ferrara fills a former 15th-century Near the canal on via Darsena, SPAL Ferrara into Serie A in 2017, a first Bearings The slower service, same price, takes tavern. L’Archibugio sets up a big screen outside since 1968. The nearest airport is Bologna 45-50min. on popular Serie A afternoons. Nearby, Guglielmo Marconi is 51km (32 miles) Around the castle moat, the Hotel de atmospheric waterside Sebastian Pub Their stadium, a classic Stadio south-west. The Bus & Fly service sets From Ferrara station, the stadium is a Prati has been in the hospitality trade for offers decent beer, quality pizzas and TV Comunale hemmed in by green- off from Arrivals every 2.5-3hrs, heading 5-7min walk, the city centre 15min away. nearly a century but doesn’t feel dated football aboard a German sea shuttered housing, opened in 1928. for Ferrara station near the stadium and Local buses are run by ami Ferrara. or jaded. trawler hauled all the way to Ferrara.

liberoguide.com 15 ITALY 2017-18 SPAL www.liberoguide.com/spal

La Coccinella and Centrale. Prices increase by €5 on SP match days. AL

For less attractive visiting sides, prices reduce to €23 in the Curva Ovest, and €32-€50 on the sidelines, again with a €5 levy on match days.

Ladies, over 65s and under 16s are charged around €10 in all sectors. Stadio Paolo Mazza Shops The main SPAL Store is at via Voltapaletto 17 (Tue-Sat 9.30am-1pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm) near the cathedral. A match-day outlet also operates at corso Piave 28, behind the Tribuna Sud.

Replica shirts come in three varieties, starting with light blue and white SPAL stripes.

Promoted to Serie A in 2017, SPAL Bars Ferrara are a grand old name in two promotions in as many seasons, rebuilt to contain 3,800 seats and a Tickets Home fans gather at the Bar Piave the Italian game though with little necessitating the expansion of the TV screen. Home fans still gather in Tickets are put on general sale online (corso Piave 77), between stadium and silverware to show for it. Stadio Mazza from 7,000 to 13,000. the Curva Ovest on via Ortigara. VIPs through VivaTicket ten days in advance. station, with quality beers and burgers, are housed in the main Tribuna Sud and occasional DJs. Based at the fifth-oldest ground still As workmen laboured to get the Stadio on corso Piave. Both these stands are VivaTicket also distributes through operating in top-class Italian football, ready for August 2017, SPAL played roofed. Coop stores, tobacconists and bars in Closer to the stadium, the Bar Fortezza SPAL hark back to a long-lost era of their first home game at Bologna, a Ferrara. If tickets are left over on match on the sidestreet of the same name has communal stadiums in Italian town 3-2 win over Udinese crowned by a In December 2017, a loan of €1.8 day, they are distributed through the that match-day essential, a gazebo, but centres, hemmed in by residential 94th-minute goal from Bologna loanee million was announced for further Biglietteria Centrale on corso Piave, is otherwise standard-issue. buildings. Luca Rizzo. stadium expansion to 16,000 seats. which opens for two hours from mid- morning. ID must be provided. Best spot by the stadium is wonderful The Comunale was later renamed Having modified their ground to Transport La Coccinella, where via Ortigara meets Stadio Paolo Mazza after the sporting accommodate 1,600 away fans in a The stadium is an easy walk from For top opposition, advance admission Cassoli. Decked out in blue and white, it director during the club’s golden era. temporary metal structure along via Ferrara station. Cross the road is €35 in the home Curva Ovest and runs a decent kitchen with a daily menu In the wilderness for half a century, Montegrappa, SPAL returned home. opposite, to corso Piave. Passing Bar away Curva Est, €50-€75 along the but is otherwise ideal for affordable pre- from 2016 SPAL managed to achieve The Gradinata Nord on via Cassoli was Piave, you see the ground on your left. sidelines in the Gradinata Laterale match .

liberoguide.com 16 ITALY 2017-18 Florence www.liberoguide.com/florence

Florence Grand Hotel Baglioni Floren c e

Hotel Berna

renamed Stadio Florence retains its 1932 look thanks to a kind refit for Italia ’90. Ridolfi was also behind If Genoa or Turin is the cradle of the the Coverciano national training centre modern Italian game, then Florence, east of Campo di Marte. The Museo del home of Fiorentina, is its historic Calcio there is worth a visit. source. , an early form of football/rugby, was played across A World Cup venue in 1934, the 16th-century Italy. Piazza Santa Croce, Comunale witnessed Fiorentina win where the game is still staged every the title in 1956 and again in 1969. The June, was its Wembley. current Fiorentina usually finish there or thereabouts – more often, thereabouts. Calcio is the Italian name for modern- Busier Pisa is 82km (50.5 miles) from the Lombardia slightly cheaper. The similarly sport-centric Lion’s Fountain. day football, but Florence lacked the Bearings Florence. A taxi (+39 050 541 600) to sumptuous B4 Astoria Firenze on via Finnegan on via San Gallo is proudly industrial drive of Turin for the sport to Underused is 8km Pisa station is €10. An hourly bus (online del Giglio is where Milton composed Irish-owned. develop. (5 miles) north-west of town. €14) from Pisa airport to Santa Maria parts of ‘Paradise Lost’. has direct budget connections with Novella takes 70min. The Old Stove on via Pellicceria covers It wasn’t until 1926 that Fiorentina were Luton and Gatwick. A Volainbus (€6, The riverside Balestri on piazza all bases for pints and Prem coverage. formed, at the instigation of Marquis €10 return, €1.20 extra for a day ticket) Bed Mentana is a nice mid-range choice The Tartan Jock on corso dei Tintori Luigi Ridolfi, the first president. He leaves every 30mins for Florence bus The nearest hotels to the stadium are while the two-star Santa Croce on via Dè offers TV soccer as does the James was also head of the local Fascist terminus via the main train station of the two-star Ungherese on via Amici Bentaccordi is also near the Arno. Joyce (Lugarno Cellini 1) on the opposite Federation, seeking to propagate Santa Maria Novella (journey time 20- and the grandiose Palazzo Lombardo riverbank. Perhaps the best is lived-in sporting excellence. 25mins). Ataf also runs city transport on viale dei Mille. Beer Uncle Jimmy’s on via dei Pescioni, with of buses and trams (single €1.20, €2 on Expat magnet Florence is dotted with a big screen. The embodiment of Ridolfi’s dream board, 24hr €5). Near Santa Maria Novella, lodgings pubs. The first to set up, near Santa was the groundbreakingly modernist run from two-star Hotel Berna to Maria Novella station, was the Fiddler’s Of the Italian bars, busy FRienDS at stadium built by . Still A taxi (+39 055 4390) from airport to top-notch Grand Hotel Baglioni Elbow, with big-screen football and borgo San Jacopo 51 is set between used by Fiorentina today, the later town (15mins) should cost €20-€25. Firenze. The Roma is also convenient, happy-hour beers. Nearby is the No.27 and No.29.

liberoguide.com 17 ITALY 2017-18 Fiorentina www.liberoguide.com/fiorentina

7.30pm, cash only), where via degli Fiorentina Anselmi meets via Pellicceria.

Online sales are distributed through Ticket One.

ID is required in all cases.

For the most games, you pay €20 in the Curva Fiesole/Ferrovia, €40 in the Maratona, and €50-€55 in the Maratona Pizzeria Da Graziano Stadio Centrale, Tribuna Parterre and Tribuna Laterale. Prices rise for marquee by the tower of the same name. The opponents. lower tiers of each sideline, Parterre di Maratona and Parterre Tribuna, suit Shops neutrals. At Fiorentina Point (viale Manfredo Fanti 85A) by the stadium, you can find Transport original red-and-white Fiorentina shirts, A train leaves Santa Maria Novella laptop bags and Fiorentina earrings. station for Campo di Marte every Fiorentina Point 15mins (€1.50), 5mins/1 stop away. It The Fiorentina Store Duomo (daily usually sets off from outer platform 18. 10am-8pm) in town (borgo San Lorenzo When film producer Mario Cecchi Gori A superb example of pre-war stadium At Campo di Marte, take the walkway 9R) has a smaller selection. Fiorentina became president, headline names architecture, the towards the floodlights. This is the arrived, in particular , was devised by star architect Pier Luigi Ridolfi athletics stadium – the Stadio Bars Champions only twice, Fiorentina (en. ‘Batigol’, the fans’ idol. Nervi with the 1934 World Cup in mind. Artemio Franchi is behind. On viale Fanti by the stadium, the violachannel.tv) have an importance Bar Marisa (corner via Carnesecchi) in the Italian game beyond the extent Huge wage bills led to bankruptcy. Refurbishments for the 1990 World Cup Tickets displays Batigol-era photos over the bar. of their silverware. Flagship club President Diego Della Valle formed a included a new lower tier and a sprucing The Fiorentina ticket office (Mon-Fri of Florence, the Viola have a huge new club forced to play its way out of up of Nervi’s concrete. 9.30am-1pm, 2.30pm-6.30pm, from The splash from ‘Stadio’ after the ’56 fan base, and a bitter rivalry with the fourth flight. They became ACF 9.30am match-day weekends) near the title win stands out amid the four walls Juventus. Fiorentina, and returned to Serie A in Viola fans occupy both ends, the north stadium at via Settesanti 28r/corner via of Fiorentina history in the Pizzeria Da 2004. Curva Fiesole considered the home Duprè offers advance and match-day Graziano Stadio (Fanti No.3er). The Italian title of 1982 escaped Viola one. Opposite is the Railway End, the sales. clutches thanks to a dubious penalty Often challenging for Europe, even Curva Ferrovia, with away fans in the By the rugby ground on viale Paoli, in Juve’s favour. Fiorentina later sold Europa League semi-finalists in 2015, settore ospiti (OS1-3, accessed through Other outlets include the age-old Rugbier is a Bierstube, with Riegele their star talent, , to Fiorentina remain a potent force but gates 13 and 14) at the Ferrovia end of kiosk in the city centre, il chiosco degli lager from Augsburg and Bavarian the Turin giants. rarely a title challenger. the Marathona, the stand dominated sportivi (Tue-Sat 10am-2pm, 3.30pm- specials.

liberoguide.com 18 ITALY 2017-18 Genoa www.liberoguide.com/genoa

Genoa Genoa G enoa

Genoa, the cradle of the modern Italian game, is home to Serie A and city rivals Genoa and Sampdoria.

The between them is named after the historic lighthouse once overseen by the uncle Merged, then separated, then merged of Christopher Columbus. The fixture again as Sampdoria in 1946, this is played at the ground shared by the new club moved in to share the Luigi two clubs, the Luigi Ferraris Stadium. Ferraris with Genoa.

The Genoa Cricket and Athletic Club Bearings were formed in 1893 by and for British Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo airport expatriates. A certain James Spensley is 7.5km (five miles) west of town, opened its football section and initiated linked by Volabus (every 30-45mins, the inaugural Italian Championship journey time 30-45mins) that calls between Genoa and Turin. Spensley at both main stations, Principe and kept goal as Genoa won six of the first Brignole, straddling the old town seven titles. Two of their competitors in centre. Tickets (€6 on board, €5 online) the burgeoning top flight were Andrea include one onward journey. Tickets for Doria and Sampierdarenese, also the bus network and one-line metro local. connecting the two stations are €1.50, or €4.50 for a 24hr pass. Brignole Originally based in Campasso on the station is almost walking distance from city’s western outskirts, the Genoa the stadium. Nearer to the stadium on via Borgo In the same family, style and location as Near San Bernardo, Mangiabuono (vico club moved to Marassi, on the east degli Incrociati is stylish B&B il Borgo di the Savoia is the equally classic Hotel Vegetti 3r) is a pesto-with-everything bank of the Bisagno river, where a A taxi (+39 010 5966) from the airport Genova. Continental, while more modest three- eatery run by a rugby-mad Anglophile. ground was opened in 1911. has a fixed rate of €7/€8 per person, star Vittoria is tucked away in its own with three people travelling. The many lodgings near Principe Station little square. Also recommended are the Bavarian A regular stage for Italian range from the historic, five-star Grand Hofbräuhaus on via Boccardo and the internationals, it was renamed the Bed Hotel Savoia Genova to the family-run Beer friendly Fabrique bar with its Samp and Luigi Ferraris after a legendary Genoa On piazza Verdi by Brignole Station, two-star Hotel Balbi. The nearby Hotel Genoa nightlife is concentrated in little Inter paraphernalia by the docks. player who perished in World War you’ll find four-star Hotel Moderno della Posta is similarly affordable. Even downtown hubs such as piazza delle I. Andrea Doria played alongside, Verdi and renovated three-star Hotel cheaper is the Bernhoef (via Balbi 15, Erbe, site of beer temple 28 Erbe, and Pubs include the time-warp Britannia occasionally meeting Sampierdarenese Brignole. A cheaper option, on nearby +39 010 247 2166), a basic bargain- nearby piazza San Bernardo, site of (vico Casana 76, signposted on via Roma) in the Ligurian leagues. via Vincenzo, is basic I Capricci. basement find. contemporary BaR MoReTTi. and the Tartan Pub (via Invrea 13).

liberoguide.com 19 ITALY 2017-18 Stadio Luigi Ferraris www.liberoguide.com/stadio-luigi-ferraris

Stadio Stadio L Luigi Ferraris

The Luigi Ferraris, known by its original name of the Marassi, is a grand old man Ferrari uigi of Italian football. This 36,600-capacity red-brick landmark by the dried-up Bisagno river is one of Europe’s most enduring football arenas. Genoa transport

Occupied by Genoa since its opening in 1911 and shared by Sampdoria since 1946, the Marassi is where Italy have played many an international, before and s after the war. It also saw action in two World Cups, the - fixture of 1934 and four games for Italia ’90. Here Costa Rica beat Scotland, and David O’Leary scored the winning penalty for Stadio Luigi Ferraris Ireland over in a shoot-out. Stadio Luigi Ferraris

With one wooden grandstand opened in Genoa occupy the Gradinata Nord, east bank of the Bisagno to the Monnet- Shops of pizza slathered in pesto and Edilio 1915 and a complete ground of 51,000 Sampdoria the Gradinata Sud, both sets Stadio stop, and back via Brignole Genoa and Sampdoria have their (No.104) is a decent-quality restaurant capacity created by 1934, the then of fans fill most of the ground except, from the Bobbio 5/Stadio stop. On own outlets. Near the stadium at via specialising in fish. Comunale began to look something like of course, for the derby. In all cases but match days, circular buses KM and Casata Centuriona 4, the store Off Side a modern-day stadium after a two-tiered the derby, away fans are allocated one SM via Brignole run from waterfront proffers merchandise from both sides. Grandiose Villa Piantelli (No.8), once stand was built in 1951. end of the main Tribuna nearest the piazzale Kennedy and Principe station occupied by aristocratic Genoese Gradinata Nord, sectors OL3, TL5 and respectively. Bars families, is now a now multi-purpose With the stadium squeezed between PL5. Access is through Ingresso 6 on via By the river on via del Piano, the Bar cultural centre, tucked away in the river, a prison and tight residential Monnet nearest the river. Tickets del Tifoso (No.18) is a tiny spot for pre- a hidden courtyard backed up to streets, further development wasn’t Genoa and Sampdoria have their own match revelry. the stadium. The first-floor bar is considered until the World Cup of 1990. Transport ticketing arrangements and distribute decorated with pre-war photographs of Brignole station is a 15-20min walk online through Listicket. On match days, Turning right into via Centuriona, Genoa and its football culture. The Marassi’s present-day look dates up along the Bisagno – head up via the botteghini stadio on via Monnet the Bar Vittorio (No.7r) is a handy from this 1989 revamp: the four solid Canevari via the underpass, the other opens from 3-4hrs before kick-off. pitstop before you reach corso di Most days of the week and before corner towers in distinctive red, a higher side of the station to the main forecourt. Stefanis behind the stadium, where Genoa games, the Little Club Genoa pitch and a new upper tier. Several buses run via Brignole up the ID is always required. Pizzeria Derby (no.79) offers squares 1962 on via Claravezza is also open.

liberoguide.com 20 ITALY 2017-18 Genoa FC www.liberoguide.com/genoa

Despite the departures of Diego G enoa Genoa Milito and , Genoa have maintained a top-flight spot – but too Italy’s oldest club, Genoa Cricket & often only just. Football Club (genoacfc.it/it) have a heritage dating back to 1893 – September A promising campaign under Gian Piero 7 to be precise, when members of an Gasperini saw Genoa finish sixth in 2014- expat social circle met at via Palestro 10. 15 – only to miss out on Europe through bureaucratic ineptitude. That evening, mine-owner and British consul Sir Charles Alfred Payton Stadium and associates founded the Genoa Genoa have been playing at the same Cricket & Athletic Club, revised to the Luigi Ferraris Stadium since 1911, their Genoa Cricket & Football Club when fans occupying the Gradinata Nord. the influential Dr James Richardson Spensley formed the soccer section four Tickets years later. They would adopt the red- Genoa distribute tickets from their outlet and-blue quarters still worn today. (Tue-Sun 10am-7pm) at via al Porto Antico 4 by the port. Online, it’s through In 1898, Genoa won the first Italian agency Listicket, which also has outlets championship in Turin, and then around Genoa, including at corso Buenos another six before Milan and Juventus Aires 67 and via Paolo Giacometti 60, came to the fore. It took the arrival of both in the Brignole/stadium area. ex-Blackburn winger Willy Garbutt for Genoa’s fortunes to swing back. As On match days, the botteghini stadio on manager, the first of many in Italy known via Monnet opens 3-4hrs before kick-off. Genoa Store as ‘Mister’, Garbutt took Genoa to three In all cases, you need to provide ID to buy more titles, returning to coach the club a ticket. in the 1940s. Garbutt instigated fitness The shop stocks T-shirts bearing the conceived attraction also features a training, paid transfers and arranged Prices are set at €20 in the Gradinata club’s vintage badge, fishing hats, bottle display of trophies and some 200 videos. matches with foreign opposition. Sud, the Nord generally filled with Genoa openers, sunglasses and crash helmets, ultras. It’s about €30 in the Distinti, and as well as kits of storied red and blue. Bar With heavyweight Czech striker Tomas €40-€80 in the main stand, the Tribuna. Behind the Gradinata Nord on via Skruhavy, Brazilian Branco and popular Across ten rooms and two floors, Claravezza, the Little Club Genoa 1962 libero Gianluca Signorini, Genoa Shop & Museum the museum (€5/€3.50-€4 reduced) is a small bar decked out in souvenirs snatched a fourth-place finish in Serie The Genoa Store & Museum (Tue-Sun covers 125 years of club history, from from the Pope’s visit and the A in 1991 and went on a UEFA Cup run, 10am-7pm) have moved to the club’s ‘Mister’ Willy Garbutt to the present day. victory of 1992. It’s open most weekday past Liverpool, before coming up against city-centre HQ at via al Porto Antico 4 by Divided into sections (‘Games, shirts lunchtimes and before Genoa games Genoa Museum Ajax in the semi-finals. the port. and players’, ‘Supporters’), this well next door.

liberoguide.com 21 ITALY 2017-18 Sampdoria www.liberoguide.com/sampdoria

Tickets Sam General sale starts a week before the game. Sampdoria distribute tickets through Sampdoria Service Center p doria (Mon 9.30am-1pm, Tue-Fri 10am- 6.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1pm, Sun 10am- 1pm) at via Cesarea 97r, near piazza del Cavalletto behind Brignole station. Hours vary for home and away games.

The club also distributes online through Listicket with outlets at Sampdoria corso Buenos Aires 67 and via Paolo Giacometti 60, both in the Brignole/ Forever linked to the great side of stadium area. the early 1990s that won the league and made three European finals, On match days, the botteghini stadio Sampdoria (sampdoria.it/en) are the on via Monnet opens 3-4hrs before result of a post-war merger between kick-off. Andrea Doria and Sampierdarenese. In all cases, you need to provide ID to Both clubs dated back to the 1890s, buy a ticket. often playing in rival championships, until a forced merger by the Fascist With the Gradinata Sud occupied by Sampdoria Point authorities in 1927 formed the united, season-ticket holders, prices for a and quickly disastrous, La Dominante modest Serie A game are around €20 Genova. Soon after, each reverted back Sampdoria were transformed by oil only to lose to Barcelona thanks to a further European appearances seem a in the Gradinata Nord, €25 in Distinti to being a separate entity before another magnate Paolo Mantovani, who made memorable strike in long way away. and €30-€60 in the main Tribuna. For merger in 1946 created Unione Calcio a handful of wise investments in the extra-time. Off the pitch, the club has passed to derbies and top opposition, prices will Sampdoria. With it came a new shirt 1980s. With stars and film producer Massimo Ferrero, whose rise by about €5-€10. (and, subsequently, a new nickname, I up front, Srečko Cup wins and European runs kept Roma credentials have little convinced Blucerchiati, ‘The Blue-Ringed’), the blue Katanec and in coming, but the era would be best Samp fans of his suitability for the role Shops of Andrea Doria combined with the white, midfield, in defence remembered for the sudden death as owner and president. There are two main Sampdoria Points, red and black rings of Sampierdarenese. and in goal, Samp of Mantovani and the high-scoring one behind the Gradinata Sud at the went on to win their only scudetto tactics of – tactics that Stadium stadium (via Casata Centuriona 20A), Sampdoria also agreed a groundshare in 1991 – in a league also featuring ultimately led to relegation. Their fans occupying the Gradinata Sud, one at central via Cesarea 107r. with Genoa at the Luigi Ferraris Maradona’s Napoli and Baresi’s Milan. Sampdoria have been groundsharing Current away kit is the classic Samp Stadium, one that remains in place A year later, Samp made it to the final Derby wins under the Luigi Ferraris Stadium with Genoa rings on white, the third choice plain today. of the European Cup at Wembley, endeared the coach to supporters but since 1946. navy blue.

liberoguide.com 22 ITALY 2017-18 Milan www.liberoguide.com/milan

Arena Civica M

Milan ilan

Fashion centre Milan has always been a glamorous football metropolis. Built on its two great clubs – AC Milan and Internazionale – the capital of Lombardy has been at the forefront of the Italian game for a century or more.

The venue they have shared for half that time is one of the world’s great football arenas, the San Siro.

Behind the scenes, Chinese money is taking over these venerable institutions. Average attendances are up, from 40,000-plus in 2016-17 to 50,000-plus in 2017-18.

442 Sports Pub The San Siro replaced the venerable , opened in 1807, later named after revered football writer Bearings Milan’s city transport comprises Long in place and also convenient scarves and TV screens. Also close Gianna Brera. In the 1960s, the San Milan has two airports. Malpensa is three metro lines, buses, trams and are the four-star Montebianco and to Gerusalemme metro, the Offside Siro, AC Milan and Inter were in their 48km (30 miles) north-west of town, trolleybuses. A single ticket is €1.50, a two three-stars close to each other, Sports Pub is worth a visit, with a pomp. The Inter icon was Sandro a 45-minute journey to Centrale (€10) daily (biglietto giornaliero) €4.50. the Hotel Oro Blu Milano and Hotel wall of pennants, a large screen and Mazzola, Milan’s Gianna Rivera, and main train station on the half-hourly Lido. Near Gerusalemme metro terrace. high society gathered for the big Malpensa Express. Linate is 8km (five Around the city centre, RadioTaxi 02- station, UNA Scandinavia is swish and matches. This was echoed 25 years miles) south-east of town, connected 6969 (+39 02 6969) is as good as any. business-friendly. Walking distance from Duomo, the later, with key Dutch stars winning to M1 San Babila by regular city bus 73 Football English Pub is hidden away European Cups for Berlusconi’s or X73 (€1.50, tickets from the Hudson Bed By Stazione Centrale is a cluster of on narrow via Valpetrosa, off via Torino. Milan, and Lothar Matthäus turning News kiosk at the airport), journey time Hotels near the San Siro also serve convenient mid-range lodgings, two in Amid the football paraphernalia are out for title-winning Inter. Milan was about 30 minutes. the nearby trade fairs. The closest is the Starhotels chain, Anderson Milan Hurst-era West Ham programmes and the centre of the football universe, B&B Hotel Milano San Siro, a hostel- and E.c.h.o.. classic Panini stickers of old AC and confirmed by its hosting of the curtain- Many budgets use Bergamo’s Orio hotel hybrid, overlooking the stadium Inter stars. raiser for Italia ’90. al Serio 45km (28 miles) from Milan, on via Achille. Also nearby and equally Beer connected with Milano Centrale spanking new is the Meliá Milano, a Highly recommended is the 442 Sports Close to Repubblica, The Friends is Whether Chinese-run Milan can regain by bus every 30-60 mins, journey time high-design Spanish chain equipped Pub at via Procaccini 61, with an one of the better of the many other these glory days is another matter. 50 mins. Tickets are €10, €5 online. with its own spa. interior of themed tabletops, football pubs in town.

liberoguide.com 23 ITALY 2017-18 San Siro www.liberoguide.com/san-siro

San Siro

orange (arancio) along the sidelines. Siro San There, a decent seat in the second row is about €40-€50.

Shops The San Siro Store (9.45am-6.30pm, match days 2hrs before kick-off, 1hr after final whistle) is accessed through gate 14. Merchandise of both clubs complements San Siro’s own brand, MSS.

Tour & Museum Tours in English and Italian (inc Museum €17, 6-17s €12, free under 6s) run every 30 mins (daily 9.30am- 5pm, till 6pm in summer, variations on match days) from gate 8, where you’ll find the San Siro Museum (€7, 6-17s €5, under 6 free), with shirts down the ages, trophies and player models. San Siro San Siro tickets Bars Pirelli’s San Siro was laid out like added, as well as a third ring. An Tickets On the Hippodrome side of the ground San Siro traditional grounds in England – all-seated capacity of 80,000 – and an The biglietteria nord ticket offices face are two lively kiosks: Chiringuito perhaps the influence of Pirelli’s official name of the Stadio Giuseppe gate 1. The circular building housing Milano, offering chupitos and cocktails; The San Siro (www.sansiro.net) is formative years in contact with the Meazza – remain to this day. the biglietteria sud is by gate 14. and Ortobello, decorated with old home to AC Milan and Internazionale, English founders of his Milan club in There’s another biglietteria by gate 7. records. Each has the feel of a pop-up city rivals who have shared the stadium the early 1900s. Fans hang over the pitch in steep-sided To buy tickets, you must show ID. bar, with sparky staff and clientele. for 70 years. tiers – you can smell the turf near the After the war, Inter moving in to touchline. This intimacy provides one Inter and Milan also have their own By the stadium, Baretto 1957 Milano Milan president Piero Pirelli groundshare and the San Siro came of Europe’s liveliest atmospheres, with separate ticket arrangements. displays the red star of Heineken and commissioned this iconic football back in style. In 1955, the stadium was Milan in the Curva Sud, Inter in the fills quickly on match days. arena in 1925 – no running track and revamped, given another tier and its Curva Nord. The San Siro comprises three rings, with four stands making a rectangular distinctive candy-twist appearance 1 anello closest to the pitch and A short walk from San Siro metro, on shape around the pitch. Despite three around the outside. Transport therefore priciest, 3 anello highest up via Federico Tesio, the Old Tenconi Pub major overhauls, the San Siro has not San Siro metro is on the M5 line, and cheapest. Each sides is colour- is a fine choice, with several tap beers. lost its shape, its style or its staying For the 1990 World Cup, a plexiglass direct from Garibaldi, one change from coded, blue (blu, AC) and green (verde, Next door, La Barchetta is a classic power. roof with distinctive red girders was Centrale. The station is by the stadium. Inter) behind each goal, red (rosso) and Italian restaurant – booking advised.

liberoguide.com 24 ITALY 2017-18 AC Milan www.liberoguide.com/ac-milan

Milan Store further information, send an email to A C [email protected]. M Casa Milan ilan ilan The Casa Milan is an all-in-one complex containing a store, museum, gallery and restaurant. Accessed through the lobby, the Mondo Milan Museum (daily 10am-7pm, €15/free under-7s) is a disappointing display of trophies and videos – if you’re going to visit one football museum, go Match day, Milan to the one at the San Siro.

Round the other side of the building, the Cucina (Mon-Fri 8am- 8.30pm, Sat, Sun 10am-8.30pm) comprises two dull rooms dotted with TV screens and perspex chairs in club colours and a limited menu at three mealtimes, breakfast included. Cucina Milanello No memorabilia, no classic archive photos, no buzz around the bar. onwards, lifting six titles in just over was eventually offloaded by long- acmilan.com) or in person at the Casa AC Milan a decade, as well as five of their term owner and sugar daddy Silvio Milan (daily 10am-8pm). Branches of Next door are the modern Milan Store overall haul of seven European Cups/ Berlusconi, whose own political career TicketOne agencies also distribute, (daily 10am-8pm) and ticket office (see Prestigious AC Milan (www.acmilan. Champions Leagues. Until the Spanish had hit the skids. Star players were including Box Office Duomo at piazza Tickets left), and a gallery area for com/en) re-entered the international giants upped the ante, no-one was sold, gates dropped and Milan became Duomo 1 and Teatro Nuovo on piazza Giovanni Cerri’s striking portraits of arena in 2017-18. After years of bigger than Milan. The stadium the mired in mid-table. San Babila in Milan. Milan legends. mediocrity and managerial changes, club built in 1926, the San Siro, is and and one of the most protracted buy- remains one of the finest arenas in the The Rossoneri, however, remain a On match days, leftover tickets go on To reach the Casa Milan, take the M5 outs in football history, the Rossoneri world, intimate yet capable of holding class act – as illustrated by the sleek sale at the San Siro biglietterie 3hrs metro line to Portello – it’s four stops have a new owner/chairman in Chinese 80,000. The club they have shared it Casa Milan club HQ, with museum, before kick-off (see San Siro, also for from the San Siro. It’s a 10min walk entrepreneur Li Yonghong, and a new with since 1947, Internazionale, form shop and ticket office, at Portello. pricing). With 80,000 capacity and from the station. coach in . Average half of a city rivalry like no other. See average gates of 50,000, availability home gates have even broken 50,000. San Siro. Tickets shouldn’t be a problem, except for The Milan Megastore (Galleria San Three weeks before match day, tickets derby games with Inter. Carlo, corso Vittoria Emanuele, daily But this is all relative. Milan dominated But Milan’s last title was won in 2011. go on general sale. Through the club, 10am-8pm) is the club’s city outlet, the Italian game from the late 1980s Plagued by severe debt, the club this is either online (https://tickets. In all cases, ID is required. For near M1 San Babila towards Duomo.

liberoguide.com 25 ITALY 2017-18 Internazionale www.liberoguide.com/internazionale

Inter Store I Internazionale nternazionale

In line for a Champions League place for the first time since 2011, Internazionale (www.inter.it) are clambering back onto the international stage thanks to investment from the Far East.

Backed by €270 million of Chinese money from Suning Holdings, and by Inter Store Indonesian media mogul Erick Thohir, now club chairman, Inter are no longer dependent on former owner Massimo Duomo (piazza Duomo/Galleria Moratti, the last of an old-school Vittorio Emanuele) and Mondadori , who poured €1 billion of his Milano Duomo (piazza del Duomo 1). own money into the club in the 1990s and 2000s. There should also be sales on the day at the San Siro ticket offices though Formed in 1908, Internazionale have availability will be scarce for the Milan spent their entire history in Serie A, derby and the visit of Juventus. winning it 18 times. The Nerazzurri have enjoyed several periods of pulling the strings, Inter won With Juventus resurgent, managers Tickets & shop Online, you can purchase through dominance, most notably the Grande consecutive European Cups in the mid- of the quality of Tickets and merchandise are available the club website (www.inter.it/en) Inter side of the mid 1960s and the 1960s but gained a grim reputation for and Roberto Mancini failed to make at the Inter Store Milano (daily 10am- biglietteria. five-time title winners between 2006 influencing referees behind the scenes. headway. 8pm) at Galleria Passarella 2, near and 2010. Each of these teams, under San Babila metro. In all cases, ID is required for and José Mourinho, The club’s lack of involvement in the Now under Luciano Spalletti, whose match-ticket purchase. For further won the European Cup/Champions refereeing scandal of 2006 saw the figurehead captain scored The ticket office inside has shorter information, email [email protected]. League. Serie A title revert to them by default. a hat-trick in the Milan derby, Inter working hours of Thur-Sat 10am- A year later they won it outright – today attract 60,000 crowds, eager to 7.30pm. For major Serie A opposition, you Ground-sharing the San Siro with although with Juventus demoted to see a top-four Serie A finish. pay €50 for a half-decent seat in the AC after the war, and backed by oil Serie B. Inter also distribute at the San Primo Verde, Secondo Arancio or millionaire Angelo Moratti, Inter Stadium Siro ticket office (Mon-Fri 9.30am- Primo Blu areas of the stadium. For matched Milan for silverware. With Incoming coach José Mourinho Inter moved into the San Siro in 1947. 12.45pm, 2.15pm-5.45pm) near gate lesser teams, prices drop to €25 in the mercurial manager Helenio Herrera gained a title in his first season then, Their fans traditionally occupy the 14. VivaTicket sell advance tickets at Secondo Blu, €40 in the Primo Arancio installing a strict system remarkably, won a historic treble in Curva Nord. For transport and bar outlets across Italy. In central Milan, and €50 for a good seat in the Tribuna and midfield icon 2010. details, see San Siro. these include Feltrinelli Milano Arancio.

liberoguide.com 26 ITALY 2017-18 Naples www.liberoguide.com/naples

Bar Nilo di Alcide Carmine Naples Palazzo Esedra, its sleek look dating N a p to the 1930s. Cheaper options nearby include mid-range, 15-room Leopardi, close to Campi Flegrei station, with a le

roof garden for breakfast in summer. s

Around Stazione Centrale, hotels abound. A great budget choice is B&B Viva Napoli at via 40. It’s best accessed through the station via the complex containing the Hotel Stelle, a polished four-star.

Exiting the Stazione Centrale through the main façade, to your left, the Starhotels Terminus Naples provides four-star comfort, as does the UNA Hotel Napoli at the far end of piazza Garibaldi.

Beer The main pub hub is around the crisscross of streets in Vomero, near Vanvitelli metro. Closest to the station, The triumph and demise of Diego Napoli Centrale station (journey time a confusing array of trains. The L’Oca Nera Irish Pub puts football first. Naples took the city from communal ecstasy 15min), terminating at the port. Out of Metropolitana is essentially one line, Pick of the pubs is the Penny Black, on to despair. As everything unravelled the airport terminal, the bus stop is a M1. M2 is run by Trenitalia, who provide via Alvino Enrico. In the same vicinity If ever there was a one-club city, it’s and the club became bankrupt, film signposted 5min walk. Tickets (€4 on old trains to Campi Flegrei, home of on via Giovanni Merliani, you’ll find Naples. Everywhere you look there’s producer Aurelio De Laurentiis stepped board) are valid for 90mins, including Napoli. The lines cross at Garibaldi, the most pub-like branch of the local a light-blue shirt. Maradona hasn’t in. The rest has been the stuff of an onward journey. within the Stazione Centrale complex. Murphy’s Law family. returned, but his former club SSC Napoli movies, last-gasp promotion and a Tickets and day passes are available at are enjoying their best spell since Diego return to European football. All the From Napoli Centrale, the stop is machines and newspaper kiosks. An The classic pizzerias of the Centro took them to two titles 30 years ago. script now requires is the Serie A title to across from the main entrance. A taxi Orario (€1.60) is valid for 90mins; the Storico include landmark Da Michele – set the alight. (+39 081 8888) should offer a fixed price Giornaliero (€4.50) is a day pass. always with queues out the door. Napoli are putting in a serious challenge to town – €16 to the station/centre, €23 for the Serie A title in 2017-18. Gli Bearings to Fuorigrotta in the stadium area. Bed Don’t miss daytime-only Bar Nilo di Azzurri have also revived the Italian Naples Airport is 6km (3.5 miles) The Naples Tourist Office (www. Alcide Carmine (via San Biagio dei domestic game, bouncing back from north-east of town, connected by the Unico Campania issues TIC tickets inaples.it) has a database of hotels. Librai 130), near piazza San Domenico bankruptcy. Alibus that runs every 20-30mins to for the Metropolitana, buses and The closest to the stadium is grandiose Maggiore, a shrine to .

liberoguide.com 27 ITALY 2017-18 Napoli www.liberoguide.com/napoli

Napoli N a p

The flagship club of the calcio-crazy city oli of Naples is enjoying their best spell since the heady days of Diego Maradona 30 years ago. SSC Napoli (www. sscnapoli.it) have become the neutral’s favourite and at the forefront of the mini-revival of Serie A. Caffetteria Monnalisa A first Scudetto since 1990 wouldn’t go uncelebrated at the Stadio San Paolo, a huge, two-tier bowl of built in an area of extinct volcanoes known as Campi Flegrei.

Holding 85,000, the San Paolo was modified for Italia ‘90. A roof was added, lifted over the stands to allow a view of Stadio San Paolo the hills beyond.

Capacity was then reduced to the (Napoli Centrale) six stops away. At Marino 15A); and the 1926 Napoli Shop Posillipo. A spot in the Distinti for €50 sunny terrace Caffé Cumana right by current 60,000 after a terrible storm in Napoli Centrale, head down to the lower (piazza Gabriele D’Annunzio 32; Mon- allows for comfort and a good view of Mostra station. 2001. level, and platform No.2 for Line 2/ Sat 10am-1pm, 4pm-8pm) behind the the action on and off the pitch. direction Pozzuoli-Bagnoli-Formia back of the stadium. Cafés are found along via Giambattista Today’s San Paolo comprises two (every 10-15mins) at the far end. A Shops Marino and around piazza Gabriele sweeping ends, home Curva A and newsagent at the top of the lower On match days until lunchtime, one There is one official Napoli outlet d’Annunzio, where the Caffetteria home Curva B, Napoli ultras in each. escalators sells single tickets (€1.30) of the bunker-like botteghini (usually (daily 8am-9pm), located at Centrale Monnalisa (No.48) has a back bar Away fans in the Settore Ospiti are that you should stamp in the little No.3) opens for sales on the via Tansillo station. At the stadium, you’ll find Blu plastered in Kodak images of Napoli squeezed between B with main Tribuna machine facing the shop. It’s a 15min side of the stadium. Tickets are not Point Sport (Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm, stars. Posillipo. Opposite, the Distinti along journey, mainly through tunnels. usually sold from official outlets in the 4pm-8pm) at via Giambattista Marino the sidelines allows for comfortable run-up to kick-off. 15A; and the 1926 Napoli Shop (Mon- For just a calcio-centric corner bar, gawping at the pageantry at each end. Tickets Sat 10am-1pm, 4pm-8pm) at piazza nearby Bar Azzurro (via Tansillo 52) In all cases, show ID to buy tickets. The club distributes online but only D’Annunzio 32, behind the ground. is decked out in Napoli iconography. Transport There are now two ticket outlets near through its Italian-language site. Round the corner, the Caffeteria degli Campi Flegrei, a 10min walk to the the stadium: Blu Point Sport (Mon-Sat Bars Azzurri (via Giambattista Marino 15A) stadium across palm-lined piazzale 9.30am-1.30pm, 4pm-8pm) beside the Average prices run from €30 in the Kiosks, huts and cabins dot piazzale by Blu Point sports a cool back-bar Tecchio, is directly linked to Garibaldi Caffeteria degli Azzurri (via Giambattista Curva A/B to €90 in the Tribuna Tecchio, the most convivial being the design displaying classic Serie A shirts.

liberoguide.com 28 ITALY 2017-18 Rome www.liberoguide.com/rome

Rome R ome

For the farewell game of Roma icon in 2017, Rome’s Stadio Olimpico was packed to bursting. Planes flew over the arena with banner messages, city buses indicated their reverence for this one-club captain. IVO a Trastevere No other city can do it like the Eternal City, one of Europe’s great football destinations. via Marsala 5 outside Termini. A direct Fiumicino-Termini bus service is also But in many ways, Totti’s farewell only provided by Terravision (online €5). served to show how moribund the rest of the Serie A season had become, the A City Airport Taxi from Fiumicino into pomp of the 1990s long gone. town has a fixed fee of €48.

Like Milan, Rome is a stadium-share city. Lesser-used Ciampino Airport is 12km Roma represent downtown Testaccio, (7.5 miles) south-east of town, served by rivals Lazio the suburbs of Parioli and the same bus companies to Termini, SIT beyond. The Olimpico is north of the and Terravision (online price €5, journey Vatican, near the Tiber. time 45min).

AS Roma have plans for their own A City Airport Taxi from Ciampino has a 60,000-capacity stadium in Tor di Valle fixed fee to the city centre of €45 but the Rome in south-west Rome, on the site of a standard rate you should find outside is racecourse built for the 1960 Olympics. €30. Bed Central Hotel Rome Garden (via Fiddler’s Elbow (via dell’Olmata 43) Bearings Flagging down a taxi or finding a rank Convenient for the Olimpico, elegant Nomenita 28) forms part of a local are typical of the expat genre. The Old The main airport of Leonardo da Vinci- works out cheaper than calling one three-star Hotel delle Vittorie sits near chain. Good for location and price, Hotel Trafford offers ‘soccer and beer’ at via Fiumicino, 35km (22 miles) south-west – such as Radio Taxi (+39 06 3570). piazza Giuseppe Mazzini. Further out Raffaello (via Urbana 3) is within easy Angelo Erno 61. of the city centre, is connected by from the city, the Hotel Farnesina is also reach of Termini. Leonardo Express train (€14, 30min Rome’s transport system consists of two handy for the stadium. The Bar San Calisto, in the square of the journey time) every 15min to the main metro lines, buses, trams and suburban Beer same name in Trastevere, is a lived-in station of Termini. From Termini, trains. A BIT single ticket (€1.50) is valid The other side of the Vatican, near Roma The Druid’s Den (via di San Martino local with calcio and boxing iconography. trains leave from outer platform 28. for 100mins. A 24hr pass (€7), 48hr pass S Pietro station, upscale Starhotels Ai Monti 28), Irish-owned Finnegan Nearby, IVO a Trastevere (via di San Alternatively, a regular SIT shuttle bus (€12.50) and 72hr pass (€18) are also Michelangelo is a four-star boutique near Cavour metro, football-oriented Francesco a Ripa 158) is a homely (online price €6) takes 90min to reach available. lodging with a modern feel. Highlander (vicolo di San Biagio 9) and football hang-out.

liberoguide.com 29 ITALY 2017-18 Stadio Olimpico www.liberoguide.com/stadio-olimpico

Stadio Olimpico Stadio O lim p i c La Pizza del Buongustaio o

see today. Despite the sheer scale of national games, either online or the place – and a running track – on from outlets around town. AS Roma its night the Olimpico can be one of organise their own online sales. Both the loudest and most colourful football clubs also have their own outlets – see arenas in the world, as the Rome derby AS Roma and Lazio. will testify. In all cases, you need ID for purchase. Transport From Ottaviano station on metro line Bars A, veer away from the Vatican in the On the city side of the river, by the Stadio Olimpico distance and into via Barletta, for the No.2 tram terminus on piazza Mancini, No.32 bus stop in the middle of the Pizzeria ‘Il Derby’ allows you to gawp facto national stadium will soon be final of 1934. A mile away across the street. The infrequent No.32 heads at autographed photos of Totti while Stadio Olimpico abandoned by Roma. With the green Tiber, il Duce was planning a grand north, past the Flaminio Stadium, and your slice is being prepared. light given to the Stadio della Roma sports complex: il Foro Mussolini. after 15mins passes the Olimpico at All roads lead to Rome – or so it seems in December 2017, Roma’s departure the stop LGT M.llo Diaz (De Bossis). A string of outlets hugs the river on when you stride up the grandiose from the Olimpico is set for 2020. Although Mussolini’s vast project the stadium side of Duca D’Aosta walkway to the impressive Stadio never came to pass, the grand Fascist An easier journey might be to Bridge. These include friendly La Pizza Olimpico. Stage for the Olympic Until that day, Lazio fans will fill the entrance remains, with its walkway take regular tram No.2 from Ple del Buongustaio, the cabin-sized Games of 1960, the World Cup final of Curva Nord with noise and colour, and hallmark obelisk. An open bowl Flaminio/P de Popolo (metro line A) River Café, and the more bar-like Big 1990, Euro 2020 Group A games and Roma fans the Curva Sud – and never inaugurated in 1953, the 54,000-seater to the terminus at Mancini. You then Stefano’s, with table football. a quarter-final, and many a major the twain will meet. arena was surrounded by the Foro just have to cross the bridge with the European final, the Olimpico remains Italico sports complex. Olimpico ahead of you. In the sports complex around the the shared home of Lazio and Roma. In 1928, the national stadium was in stadium, the Circolo del nearby Flaminio, where Mussolini Host of the 1960 Games, the Olimpico Tickets Tennis on viale dei Gladiatori has a A 70,000-capacity bowl in Rome’s opened the Stadio del Partido Nacional was overhauled for the 1990 World The listicket/ticketone agency restaurant overlooking its tennis courts green northern reaches, Italy’s de Fascista. It then hosted the World Cup Cup. The result is pretty much as you distributes tickets for Lazio and and the Olimpico.

liberoguide.com 30 ITALY 2017-18 Lazio www.liberoguide.com/lazio

then dominated the headlines, not to L azio azio mention crowd trouble.

Making yet another Italian Cup final in 2017, the fourth in nine years, Lazio qualified for Europe through the back door, goals from blazing a path to the quarter-finals of the Europa League. Lazio Style 1900 Tickets & shop to sell Signori to win the Italian Cup Of the handful of Lazio outlets in and make the UEFA Cup Final, both in and around Rome, the one at via May 1998. Guglielmo Calderini 66C is closest to the stadium, near piazza Mancini by Keeping inspirational Roberto the No.2 tram terminus. Considering Mancini up front, Cragnotti then spent the club’s stature, Lazio Style 1900 millions on , Marcelo (Mon 4pm-8pm, Tue-Sat 10am- Salas and Sérgio Conceição, only to 1.30pm, 2.30pm-8pm, match days lose the title to Milan by one point. 5hrs before kick-off) is very modest Compensation came with winning the indeed, stocking a few replica shirts last European Cup Winners’ Cup, 2-1 and Lazio-branded knick-knacks. Stadio Olimpico over Real Mallorca, in 1999. It also acts a ticket office (Tue-Sat 10am-1.30pm, 2.30pm-7pm, match Lazio struck up a bitter rivalry with Eriksson sold Vieri for Juan days 5hrs before kick-off). Lazio Roma but moved in to groundshare the Sebastián Verón and found the right Stadio Olimpico when it opened in 1953. balance. Trailing until the last game Tickets can also be bought online SS Lazio (sslazio.it/en) may not earn of 1999-2000, Lazio took advantage of through listicket and from its outlets much sympathy in many quarters From 1992, tomato-sauce millionaire a Juve slip-up to take the title at the around Rome. because of the shocking reputation of and financier Sergio Cragnotti death. Cragnotti had got his crown. their right-wing following, but the club transformed the club, bringing I Paul The Lazio faithful gather in the Curva has managed to keep up with Italy’s best Gascoigne, Alen Bokšić and, most of all, Finances remained shaky. Cragnotti Nord, where tickets are around €20. over the past two decades and counting. . ‘Beppe’ was the hero resigned halfway through the 2002- Along the sidelines in the Tribune of the Curva Nord, his 20 goals a season as coach. Lazio finished runners-up, 03 season, and Lazio only bounced Tevere and Monte Mario, they rise to Lazio were founded in 1900 by Luigi pushing Lazio into a title-challenging then third, as the salary bill spiralled. back thanks to the coaching skills of €40-€60. For under-16s, prices are Bigiarelli, adopting the light-blue- role, and back into Europe. Still after that elusive title, Zoff brought Roberto Mancini. €10-€15 cheaper. and-white colours of the Greek flag. in Czech star Pavel Nedved and young A fan base grew in Rome’s green-belt As club president, hired defender . It took the Fiscal uncertainty, an exodus of star For lowly opposition, online tickets northern outskirts. adventurous tactician, Zdenek Zeman, cool head of coach Sven-Göran Eriksson players and a match-fixing scandal can drop to €10, even for adults.

liberoguide.com 31 ITALY 2017-18 Roma www.liberoguide.com/roma

Roma AS Roma Store R oma

Totemic one-club captain Francesco Totti may have retired in 2017 but AS Roma (asroma.com/en) are still leading contenders in the Italian game. For four AS Roma Store seasons running, the Giallorossi have achieved a top-three spot in Serie A and made the knock-out stages in Europe. AS Roma Store

In 2017-18, Roma reached the quarter- finals of the Champions League for the first time in a decade.

Shortly before, the green light was given to the Stadio della Roma, a new stadium at Tor di Valle in south-west Rome, out towards Fiumicino airport. 6pm) at via Appia Nuova 130 near Re di A 52,500-capacity Colosseum-inspired Roma metro station. circular arena, the club’s new home is due to open for the 2020-21 season, The club has its own English-language just under a decade after the gradual online distribution service (asroma.com/ takeover of Roma by Boston-born en/tickets/buy-tickets). billionaire James Pallotta. On match days Roma distribute a few The move will leave eternal city rivals screen for live projections of the match. The two main ones both also operate as the second kit is white with red-and- hours before kick-off from the Foro Lazio as the sole tenant of the Stadio Inside, Roma hope to recreate the Curva ticket outlets. The AS Roma Store (daily yellow markings, the third choice black. Italico office on viale delle Olimpiadi, in Olimpico, after a groundshare that dates Sud of Olimpico lore. 10am-7pm) at piazza Colonna 360 in the the same sports complex as the stadium. back to the stadium’s opening in 1953. Tridente area of town contains a ticket There’s also a line in retro tops from the The Stadio della Roma will be office (10am-6pm, match days vary) on Falcão era. In all cases, ID is required for purchase. Set on the site of the Tor di Valle yet another stadium owned by its the upper floor, the walls decorated with racecourse, alongside Mussolini’s model occupants, following the lead of classic images from Roma history. Note A smaller store/ticket outlet is found at The home end, the Curva Sud, is usually district of EUR, the new stadium will Juventus and Udine as Italy moves away the rare shot of the line-up of Serie A via del Corso 25 (Mon-Sat 10am-8pm), sold out. In the Curva Nord opposite, a form part of a leisure complex known as from its municipal shackles. winners from 1941-42. near the piazza del Popolo. seat is €25, reduced price €18 for over- Roma Village. While the arena will take 65s and under 14s. Along the sidelines, in the inspiration for its exterior design Tickets & shops Downstairs, items such as branded jeans, Match tickets are usually put on sale the Tribune Tevere and Monte Mario, it’s from the Colosseum, around it will be a There are now 16 Roma stores (!) and crash helmets and skateboards bear three or four weeks before the game. €60/€42, rising to €80/€60 in the prime mock of the Spanish Steps and a huge around Rome. Roma’s emblematic wolf logo. Currently, There’s also a Ticket Point (daily 10am- spots.

liberoguide.com 32 ITALY 2017-18 Sassuolo/Reggio Emilia www.liberoguide.com/sassuolo-reggio-emilia

Tickets Sa Viva Ticket (www.vivaticket.it) provides advance sales, online and through ss outlets such as Kukkuma Bar/Tabacchi uolo/ in the I Petali complex by the stadium and the Tabaccheria Panciroli at via Panciroli 21A in the city centre. R On match days, a biglietteria operates eggio E by the stadium car park. Sassuolo/ ID must be presented. Average prices are €10 in the Tribuna

milia Reggio Emilia Sud (home) and Nord (away). It’s €20- €30 in the Tribuna (Est), and €25-€55 in It is the miracle of Sassuolo. From the main stand, Tribuna Ovest. For the 2013-14, the smallest town in Italy to be most attractive opposition, prices rise represented in Serie A since the war has to €30 behind the goals and €30-€105 rubbed shoulders with Milan, Rome and along the sidelines. Turin. Sassuolo Calcio (sassuolocalcio. it) even qualified for the group stage of Admission is reduced for women, over- the Europa League in 2016-17. 65s and, amazingly, under-30s. Bar Luana Home games take place 30km from Beer Sassuolo at the 20,000-capacity Mapei Parma station, connected by bus No.6 Emilia-Guastalla regional FER rail line, Bed In Sassuolo, the Bar Luana by the Enzo Stadium-Città del Tricolore on the (€1.20/€2 on board, every 30mins, 5mins/2 stops from Reggio station. It The only hotel near the stadium is the Ricci stadium at piazza Risorgimento is outskirts of Reggio Emilia. 15min journey time). The train from runs hourly during the week, four times four-star, business-oriented Cristallo, decked out in green-and-black scarves, Parma to Reggio Emilia (€2.90) takes a day at weekends (12min journey time). across the main strada Tangenziale. shirts (‘Sasol’) and souvenirs. Sassuolo fans occupy the Curva Sud, 15mins. In town, the two-star Ariosto (via away ones the Curva Nord. The Tribuna Local buses in Reggio Emilia require a San Rocco 12, +39 0522 437 320) is Apart from outlets at the I Petali mal, Ovest contains the press and VIP A Reggio Emilia taxi (+039 0522 452 545) €1.50 ticket from a machine, €2 (exact convenient for the bus to the stadium. there are no bars at the stadium. seats, with Tribuna Est on the opposite charges €55 to/from , and change) on board. The four-star Hotel Posta by the sideline. Centrale Superior has the best €40/€51 between Sassuolo and Reggio main square is historic. The four- The nearest café is sleek La Nave (via spots – Est Laterale the cheapest. Emilia. At weekends, the No.5 runs every star Europa, stands by the disused Gramsci 1), in a little hub of shops 30mins from downtown Teatro Ariosto, Stadio Mirabello, home of Reggiana where main roads meet. Also here Transport The stadium is on the north-eastern which stops at via Duo and via Ruini until 1995. Convenient San Marco are café/bakery L’Antica Macina and The nearest airport is Parma 50km (31 outskirts of town, with its own stop, near the stadium. A taxi from the station is a three-star directly opposite the superior restaurant Trattoria del miles) away, 2.4km (1.5 miles) from Reggio Stadio Giglio, on the Reggio should cost about €12. station. Buontempone.

liberoguide.com 33 ITALY 2017-18 Turin www.liberoguide.com/turin

Turin T

Turin urin

Home of Italy’s most successful club as well as its most revered, Turin is a football city steeped in myth and tragedy. Juventus and Torino both gained new stadia in modern times, Juve’s an all-seater on the northern Murphy’s outskirts.

With strong local support, Torino played at the from its opening in 1926. Unveiled nearby seven years later, the Stadio was later named the Comunale.

The Filadelfia hosted the great Torino side of the 1940s, decimated by a Murazzi plane crash into the Superga Basilica outside town. The Filadelfia was later abandoned, only recently revamped for as its focus but screens soccer, too. training games. Alongside, the Shamrock Inn is another favourite, while over the road nearer Torino moved to the nearby Comunale, Bearings Bed Porta Nuova train station is surrounded Porta Nuova, the 1870 Huntsman has reconfigured for the 2006 Winter is 16km (ten miles) north By the , the Hotel by hotels. TV screens and pool. Nearby, behind the Olympics, then for football. In 2016, of town, a short drive to the Juventus Master is a handy three-star. Also corso, the Jumping Jester opens by day, it was renamed the Stadio Olimpico Stadium. An express train (€3.70) runs close is the family-run Hotel Castello In the city centre, the Grand Hotel when tables fill with diners. in honour of the fallen every 30mins to Dora station towards the is set in a 17th-century building. On Sitea is elegance itself, with a gourmet side. city centre, journey time 20mins. A taxi the same side of the city as Juventus, restaurant. Near station, the Isle of Skye (+39 011 5737 or +39 011 3399) to town the Hotel Residence Sporting shares has a full range of Tennent’s beers as Juve adapted the unloved and distant should cost €40 and take 30 minutes. space with the Maffei Sports Centre, Beer well as Sky HD. , scene of the epic Italia its pool, tennis courts and football The Po-side strip of bars, the Murazzi, ’90 semi-final between England and The main train station is Porta Nuova, pitches. between the bridges of Umberto I There’s another hub of sport-friendly West Germany. The successful Juventus south-east of the centre. From there, and Vittorio Emmanuele I, is the main faux pubs between piazza Castello and Stadium set the precedent for a club- trams run to Juventus or Torino. Public By the Olimpico, the Bed & Breakfast nightlife hub. the Mole tower. Roar Roads has rare owned arena in a land of crumbling transport consists of a metro, trams Stadium provides affordable comfort. beers and TV football. On the next street municipal sports grounds. In 2017, it and buses. A single ticket is €1.50, a day The four-star Hotel Cairo is also within Of the pubs, on corso Vittorio Emanuele over, the Shakespeare is more pub-like was renamed Allianz Stadium. pass €5. easy reach. II, Murphy’s (aka ‘Six Nations’) has rugby and puts calcio first.

liberoguide.com 34 ITALY 2017-18 Juventus www.liberoguide.com/juventus

Juventus Store Shops Juventu The main Juventus Store (daily 9am- 9pm) is by the club museum. It’s the largest of its kind in Italy, with shirt- printing and retro tops galore. In town, there’s a Juve store (daily 10am- 7.30pm) on the corner of Garibaldi and s XX Settembre by the Garibaldi stop on the No.4 tramline.

Tours & Museum Behind the Tribuna Est, the Juventus Museum (Mon, Wed-Fri 10.30am-6pm, Thur-Sun & hol 10.30am-7.30pm, returning all the way back to Porta match days from 9am-10.30am) costs Nuova station. Tram No.3 from piazza €15, €12 or under-16s/over-65s, free Repubblica runs close by. for under-6s. Trophies sit backlit on wall after wall while the club history Tickets is told in film, photo and football shirt Tickets go on general sale via Listicket, form. either online (www.listicket.com) or at Lis outlets throughout Italy. In tours (Mon, Wed-Fri 11am, Turin, these include the agency at corso 12.30pm, 2.45pm, 4.15pm, Sat, Sun & Stati Uniti 9 beside Hotel Italia. ID is hol every 30min) can only be purchased Allianz Stadium required before purchase. If you’re as part of a combined museum ticket buying in person, there’s a €2 levy. (€22/€18 reduced). in Italy where ageing state-run stadia and Tribuna Nord on via Druento, Juventus are the norm. Being built around the behind each goal, Tribuna Ovest and For an average Serie A fixture, it’s €35 Bars 41,500-capacity Allianz Stadium is the Est Centrale on strada Comunale di (€20 under-16s) for a seat in home On strada Comunale di Altessano, by Juventus (www.juventus.com/juve/ J-Village of a training centre, office, Altessano by the Area12 mall contain Tribuna Sud, or Tribuna Nord, €65 (€35) via Sansovino, L’Elite features photos of en/welcome) now dominate the Italian hotel and concept store. Italian football the best seats along the sidelines. for a better seat in the Tribuna Nord, the stadium while New York opposite game, as they did in the 1970s, 1980s is at last joining the 21st century. Visitors are allocated the north corner while prices in the sideline Tribuna Est is filled with TV screens. Nearer the and 1990s. Six straight have between the Nord and Est stands or Ovest range from €75-€120 (€40- stadium at strada Altessano 146, been interspersed with two Champions The adjoining Area12 mall contains a accessed through via Druento. €60). Alby and neighbouring Millegusti are League finals, and defeats to the Juventus megastore, while a Juventus standard choices. Spanish giants in 2015 and 2017. Museum was opened in 2013. Transport On match days, there are two ticket The Juventus Stadium is north of town. offices by ingresso C, one by ingresso B By the ground in the Area12 mall, you’ll Juventus can also point to the ongoing The compact stadium comprises the On match days, tram No.9 runs from and three by ingresso D, E and F on via find eateries such as the Old Wild West success of their self-owned arena, rare home Tribuna Sud on corso Grosseto on Turin’s metro line before Druento. and Wiener Haus.

liberoguide.com 35 ITALY 2017-18 Torino www.liberoguide.com/torino

Granata Store T Torino orino

Taking the bull of Turin as their symbol, disgruntled members of Juventus met in December 1906 to form Torino (wwwtorinofc.it). Among them was coach , who led Torino for ten years before his World-Cup winning stint as national team manager.

It was Pozzo who helped form the 3.30pm-7.30pm, Tue-Fri 10am-1pm, Grande Torino side of the 1940s, 3.30pm-7.30pm, Sat 10am-7.30pm) at lighting up Torino’s beloved old Campo piazza Castello 10. It’s hidden away in Filadelfia. Before a fifth title, a plane an arcade, opposite door 9. carrying the team flew into the hilltop Basilica of Superga outside Turin. Pozzo Another store operates on corso Agnelli had to identify the bodies. by the stadium, the smaller Point Stadio Olimpico (Tue-Fri 10am-1pm, The Granata later moved from Filadelfia 3.30pm-7.30pm, match days) at 24A. to groundshare with Juve at the Comunale, pipping their city rivals to win Bars an emotional league title in 1976. The nearest outlet to the stadium is a kiosk on corso Sebastopoli directly Revived and rebuilt for the Winter opposite the main ticket office, the Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino Olympics of 2006, and converted Bar-Paninoteca Olimpico, with tables thereafter for use as a football ground outside, and bottled beers. by Torino, the Comunale became the The nearby Filadelfia, meanwhile was station to corso Agnelli, the main cheapest tickets in the Curva Maratona Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino, holding revamped and reopened in 2017 as a street that runs parallel to the Stadio or Primavera are as cheap as €10, Close by, where corso Agnelli meets 28,000. club HQ and training ground. Olimpico. This is closer to the stadium rising to €15 in the Distinti Granata. A corso Sebastopoli, the Serafina is a and also allows access to the club decent seat in the Poltroncine Granata contemporary version of a classic retro The Marathon Tower distinctly rises high Transport shop. is €30, €60 in the Tribuna d’Onore and Italian café/eaterie. over the home end, or Curva Maratona Arriving into Porta Nuova station, turn €90 in the Tribuna Grande Torino. For (or Curva Nord, yellow). Visiting fans are left into via Sacchi, and cross the tram Tickets A-category opposition, prices rise at By the Filadelfia stadium, the Piatto allocated a section between the opposite tracks for the No.4 stop. It takes 10-15 The main ticket office is on corso least 20%. Sprintvia is the best choice of pre- Curva Primavera (green) and the Distinti mins to reach the rond-point of San Sebastopoli (Mon-Fri 10am-1pm, 2pm- match imbibery, one part bar, one part Granata (red). The best seats are found Gabriele. Walk right down via Filadelfia 6pm and 2hrs before kick-off). You Shops restaurant, decorated with archive in the Tribuna Granata, suitably also – left takes you to the old Toro stadium. must provide a valid passport before The main Toro outlet is in the city photos of the Grande Torino side of the named the Tribuna Grande Torino. Tram No.10 runs from Porta Susa purchase. For lesser opposition, the centre, the Granata Store (Mon 1940s, plus framed shirts.

liberoguide.com 36 ITALY 2017-18 Udine www.liberoguide.com/udine

Hotel Principe The Little Box U dine

Hotel Friuli Convenient for stadium and city centre, Hotel Suite Inn on via di Toppo is more four-star than three.

Beer Udine is the historic home of Moretti.

Al Vecchio Stallo on via Viola is a lovely rustic spot decked out in vintage paraphernalia. The excellent Osteria Bed Pierimortadele is on via Bartolini near The regional Tourist Office (turismofvg.it) the Udinese store. It’s real football hang- Udine has a room-booking function. out – though without a TV.

north-west of town by the motorway that away. Bus No.E51 runs every 1-2hrs, Two three-star hotels are located Recently closed The Little Box may Udine links Venice with , shifted focus taking 1hr to reach the bus terminal in opposite the station: the Principe used find a buyer to revive this popular away from Moretti Park. Udine, near the train station on viale by Italian rail staff; and the Europa. Also spot. The Black Stuff on via Gorghi is Set in Italy’s far north-east, close to Europa Unità, 2km south of the city close to the station on piazzale Giobatta the city’s main pub. The bare-brick, Slovenia, the Adriatic and the Alps, Udine Reopened in 2016, the stadium is the centre. Tickets (€4.75) are sold from Cella is the Hotel San Giorgio, with more restaurant-like I Piombi on via is the main city of Friuli. With Germanic second in Serie A to be owned by the club the machine or at the info desk in rooms in the €100 range. Manin attracts a discerning but pub- and Slav influences, Friuli has its own who play there. A sponsorship deal with Arrivals. seeking crowd – with TV football, too. language and its own . Udine is car firm Dacia helped pay for it. In the On via Giosuè Carducci, you find upscale Also central, Il Delser at via Cavour 18 home to Moretti beer. The brewery once top flight since 1995, Udinese have no Udine is served by local buses. A ticket lodgings at the Ambassador Palace. has football on TV and a party feel on owned the club, who first played at Stadio immediate local rivals. Most away trips (biglietto orario) is €1.25 from the main Under the same umbrella, the Friuli on Saturday nights. Moretti. are a trek – Udine to Crotone is 1,200km. office opposite the train station, or €2 viale del Ledra and Astoria on piazza XX on board. A day pass (giornaliero U-24) Settembre offer mid-range comfort in North of the centre, Bire at piazzale This club, now , are Bearings is €4.35. Taxi Udine (+39 0432 505 858) downtown locations. For a quality stay, Osoppo has its own beers and a large TV. Italy’s second oldest, formed in 1896. Friuli-Venezia-Giulia Airport aka ‘Trieste charges €15 from the train station to Al Vecchio Tram is a designer spot on via Nearby at viale Volontari della Libertà 12, The opening of the in 1976, Airport’, is close to Udine 44km (27 miles) the stadium. Brenari. Old Pub keeps the focus on Serie A.

liberoguide.com 37 ITALY 2017-18 Udinese www.liberoguide.com/udinese

Tickets are also available at the U stadium on match days for a €5 levy. dine

In all cases, ID is required for

purchase. s e

Standard prices for the Tribuna Centrale and Laterale along the sidelines are €35-€50, €25 for the Distinti and €15 in either end, the Udinese Curva Nord and Sud. Shop Udinese (udinese.it/eng) are the At the Udinese Store (Tue-Sat Zebrette, the Little Zebras, their black- 10.30am-12.30pm, 3pm-7pm, match and-white stripes representing Udine days) at the Dacia Arena, souvenirs since 1896. include bandanas, baseball caps and frilly pennants. Second kits are Mired in the lower reaches of Serie currently canary yellow. A since the retirement of the prolific , Udinese at least There’s a smaller downtown outlet now have their own stadium. The Dacia (Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm, 3.30pm- Stadio Friuli Arena, the former Stadio Friuli, was 7.30pm) at via Portanuova 1. unveiled in 2016. Behind a sleek, diamond-patterned affordable than those in the Tribuna Tickets Bars Di Natale bowed out the same year, after exterior, the Dacia Arena puts football as Centrale (Nord/Sud). The main ticket office is by the Outlets surround piazza Rizzi just scoring a goal every other game over the focus, the old running track removed Udinese Store (Tue-Sat 10.30am- behind the Carnera sports hall. Best 12 seasons. Striking partners, including and stands up close to the pitch. Transport 12.30pm, 3pm-7pm, match days) at is supporters’ hangout Bar allo Stadio Alexis Sánchez, came and went, each Two buses serve the stadium from Udine the stadium. There’s a city-centre (via delle Scuole 6), decorated with time Udinese selling on at a profit. With the Curva Nord and Tribuna Est station: the No.9 to the north side of the Udinese Store/ticket office (Tue-Sat images of Antonio Di Natale, signed ready for 2015-16, and the Curva Sud ground; and the more frequent No.2 to 9.30am-12.30pm, 3.30pm-7.30pm) at shirts and hooped evidence of Celtic’s Behind this policy is Giampaolo Pozzo. unveiled that December, capacity piazza Rizzi, which drops you by the Bar via Portanuova 1, between the Castle visit here. Udinese’s long-term owner has a reached 25,000. allo Stadio at the church square. You’ll and the Palazzo Antonini/Banca football empire, stretching from Granada see the floodlights behind the bank by d’Italia. On the other side of the church, to Watford. Away fans are allocated sectors Q1/2 the bus stop. Trattoria Nuovo Fiore is a pleasant and R1/2 in a corner of the Curva Sud Listicket, which distributes online, osteria with a terrace. Nearby, tucked When Italy’s bid to host Euro 2016 fell nearest the main Tribuna Centrale. Both take about 15mins from the station also has outlets around Udine and down narrow via Milano, at No.7, through, Pozzo went ahead and built the Home fans are in the Curva Nord. and both skirt the historic centre. A taxi region. One is right by the castle at via homely Osteria da Dalia 3.0 serves club a new stadium all the same. Seats in the Distinti Centrali are more should cost about €15. Mercatovecchio 33. affordable local wines and tasty eats.

liberoguide.com 38 ITALY 2017-18 Verona www.liberoguide.com/verona

Hotel Torcolo Verona V erona erona

Caffè Anselmi

Bentegodi, particularly their own Curva Verona Sud, while Chievo’s were allocated the traditional away end, the Curva Nord. The lesser-known of Italy’s cross-city Both sets fly yellow and blue flags, the groundshares is Verona – the top-flight colours of the city of Verona adopted by derby between century-old Hellas both clubs. Verona and upstart rivals ChievoVerona is a fleeting phenomenon. Chievo play the role of happy underachievers. Hellas and their Chievo represent the suburb of the notoriously right-wing have a bigger same name, 4km west of town tucked gripe with Veneto rivals . inside the river Adige. Their fairytale rise from park football to Serie A was Bearings Halfway between station and stadium Cattaneo 10), the standard San Micheli sports. Nearby Hartigan’s, tucked inside even backed by a local cake company. Verona Villafranca (Catullo) Airport and walking distance to either, the (via Valverde 2), the comfortable a courtyard off vicolo Disciplina, is the With Chievo maintaining their top- is 5km (3 miles) south-west of Verona, Hotel Piccolo and adjoining Martini on Bologna (piazzetta Scalette Rubiani) main Irish bar. flight status, this rather odd city rivalry, connected by ATV Aerobus (€6) to via Giulio Camuzzoni are part of the and the low-cost Albergo Trento (corso the Derby della Scala, is reenacted Verona train station every 20mins, mid-range Hotels Verona group that Porta Nuova 36) and Hotel Torcolo (via Also big on beer is the Caffè Anselmi whenever Hellas drift into Serie A. journey time 15mins. ATV also runs also includes the nearby Porta Palio Cattaneo 11). The Hotel Europa (via on piazza delle Erbe while, alongside, the city bus network – it’s €1.30 for a on viale Galliano. Across from it on via Roma 8) is a handy three-star in the bloom provides plenty of screen action The stage is the Stadio Bentegodi, single ticket (€2 on board), €4 for a day Longhena, the Hotel San Marco is a spa same convenient vicinity. and outdoor seating. Equally upscale is home of Hellas since it opened in 1963, pass. A taxi (+39 045 532 666) from the hotel with pool. Vini Zampieri (via Alberto Mario 23), with and renovated to stage Belgium’s airport should cost about €26-€30 to In town, tourist magnet Verona has Beer fine wines and football paraphernalia. group games for Italia ’90. By then, town. plenty of hotels, though all might be Once an unpretentious football pub, the Chievo had already moved in, soon after booked for summer’s opera season. Re Carlo da Barca (via Carlo Cattaneo Finally, don’t miss a peek into the gaining professional status. Bed 12/corner vicolo Disciplina) has upped Patagonia (via San Nicolò 43), an ice- The first Serie A derby came in 2001. The Verona Tourist Office (tourism. All within a short walk of the Arena the ante on its gastronomic offering cream parlour themed after Argentine Hellas fans occupied most of the verona.it) has a hotel-booking service. are four-star Colomba d’Oro (via while keeping its fine beers and TV football.

liberoguide.com 39 ITALY 2017-18 Stadio Bentegodi www.liberoguide.com/stadio-bentegodi

Stadio Bentegodi Stadio Bentegodi Stadio Bentegodi

Opened in 1963 and now showing its age more than five decades later, the Stadio Bentegodi is shared by Hellas Verona and ChievoVerona, occasional Serie A rivals.

Named after the local patron who backed Hellas more than a century ago, the Bentegodi is over the river from the town centre, in the western district of Borgo Milano. The original Bentegodi, Stadio Bentegodi where Hellas Verona first played in the early 1900s, was a field near downtown piazza Cittadella, a short walk from the Arena.

Between 1915 and 1928, Hellas played at Porta Palio, near the riverside hotel of the same name, then moved back to the original Bentegodi after a merger with Stadio Bentegodi two other local clubs.

When the new Bentegodi was being Attracting record crowds during Hellas The Curva Sud is the home end for 95 also serve Chievo and the No.90 links Bentegodi, all behind the Tribuna Est on built, Hellas had only spent one brief Verona’s title-winning season of 1984- Hellas fans, the Curva Nord on via with focal piazza Brà. Walking from the the stretch of piazzale Olimpia between season in Serie A but the civic pride 85, and used by Chievo a year later, the Leonardo da Vinci is for Chievo’s. Press station takes 15-20mins –follow the left- via Fra Giocondo and via Sansovino – are dictated that a modern, municipal Bentegodi saw a number of renovations and VIPs are allocated the Tribuna Ovest hand side of the stream up as far as via Hellas strongholds. sporting arena should complement the before the 1990 World Cup, namely a alongside piazzale Olimpia. Tribuna Est Fra Giocondo, then turn left. historic one in the main square. new pitch and extensions to the roof and offers cheaper sideline seats. Just round the corner on via Sansovino, third tier. Tickets at No.20, lounge bar Atipico is a All-seated with a running track, the Transport Each club has its own ticket outlets, contemporary revamp of the lovely old 42,500-capacity Bentegodi was modern Capacity is currently just under 40,000 The nearest bus stops are piazzale either in person or online. Both sell at café that once stood here. and progressive, a step ahead of the but Chievo rarely take up more than a Olimpia/via Palladio, served by Nos.11, the ground on the day. ID is required. Comunale stadia built under Mussolini. quarter of the seats, Hellas rarely more 12 and 13 that run every 15-20mins from Near the via Palladio bus stop en route Its curtain-raiser was a Serie B game than half. The stadium comprises four Porta Nuova main train station leaving Bars to the stadium from the station, the between Hellas and Veneto rivals tiers: tribuna/curva superiore; poltrone; from platform C near the stream to the The main bars around the stadium – Corner Café offers quality coffee and Venezia shortly before Christmas 1963. poltronissime, and parterre. right of the forecourt. Bus Nos.11 and the Stadio, Olimpia, The Den pub and Italian football glossies.

liberoguide.com 40 ITALY 2017-18 Chievo www.liberoguide.com/chievo

Chievo Chievo fans Chievo

ChievoVerona (chievoverona.it/en) come from the modest suburb of the same name tucked inside the Adige river north- west of downtown Verona.

Here local enthusiasts formed a football club in 1929, playing at the bottom of the Italian league hierarchy until the arrival of Shop Luigi Campedelli in 1964. The ChievoVerona store (Tue-Fri 3.30pm-7pm, Sat 10.30am-1pm, 2-6pm) Head of local cake company Paluani, is at the Bottagisio Sport Center, via Campedelli steered Chievo (then AC Perloso 14, over a narrow waterway Cardi Chievo) up to Serie D, the highest about 50 metres from the main road in amateur level. It took another ten years the Chievo part of town. for the club to reach the fourth-flight Serie C2, when Chievo moved from their Merchandise includes the current kits modest pitch by the river to the Stadio of yellow-and-blue, white with a sky- Bentegodi. blue stripe, and green with a yellow- and-blue stripe. Bedfellows Hellas, who had previously paid them scant attention, called Chievo Bars the ‘Flying Donkeys’ – a reference to Chievo fans meet at specific venues Chievo fans mules flying before Hellas play Chievo around piazza Chievo. Prime spot is in Serie A. Myth and reality became ever La Pantalona (via Aeroporto Angelo closer in 1989, when Chievo reached Chievo then stormed to the top of Serie On match days, tickets are sold For the visits of Hellas and the biggest Berardi 80/82), by the pitch where the Serie C1. A and, for six crazy weeks, sat atop from Biglietteria A, in the Palazzina names, prices rise to €30 in either end, club played before moving up to the the lot. Masprone at the south-west corner of €50 in the Poltrone and €100 in the Stadio Bentegodi. A yellow-and-blue Campedelli died suddenly in 1992, leaving the stadium. Poltronissime. flag above the Café Hausbrandt sign his son Luca in charge. Remarkably, Chievo finished a respectable fifth, leads into a bar of Chievo revelry on promotion came two years later, setting then seventh, then ninth. The current For most games, the quality seats in Women and men over 60 and under 26 match days. By the Chievo shop on up a first clash with Hellas, in Serie B. Serie A run dates back to 2008, the club the Poltronissime will cost €60-€65, are charged more or less half-price. a spur of via Perloso, the bar at the remaining close to its community roots. decent ones in the Poltrone €25-€30. Under-15s pay €15 for top fixtures, €5 Bottagisio Sport Center is also popular. The Derby della Scala continued to be In the home end, the Curva Nord, it’s for A2 category games and can see A3 played throughout the 1990s before coach Tickets €20-€25, the same for away fans in matches for free. Just off piazza Chievo at via Puglie 79, led Chievo to an unlikely Advance online sales are dealt with by the Curva Sud. There are discounts for Bar Da Tommaso is another Chievo promotion in 2001. ticket one. ladies, seniors and juniors ID is required for purchase. hangout, with pizzas sold by the portion.

liberoguide.com 41 ITALY 2017-18 Hellas Verona www.liberoguide.com/hellas-verona

Hellas Store Bought in advance, a ticket for a H standard Serie A game is €40-€65 in ella the Poltronissime seats, €25-€32 in the Poltrone and €18 behind the goals

in the home Curva Sud and away Curva s Nord. V erona Prices are reduced for women, over- 60s and under-16s, by about €10-€15. Under-14s are charged €2. For match- day sales, prices rise by about €2-€5. Shop

After relegation in 2016, Hellas bounced The Hellas Store is at via Cattaneo 2, back under former Napoli midfielder on the corner with via Oberdan. There’s . also a match-day outlet at the stadium behind the Tribuna Est. Stadium Hellas have played at the Stadio Kits come in various combinations Bentegodi since its opening in 1963, of blue and yellow, with variations of occupying the Curva Sud on via Fra T-shirt including images of the Stadio Giocondo (gates/cancello 18-19). For the Bentegodi and a composite image of bigger games, Hellas fans take up most Hellas in the 1980s. of the 37,000 capacity. Bars Stadio Bentegodi Tickets Around the stadium, the main bars, During the week before the game, behind the Tribuna Est on the stretch arrival of coach . Hellas Hellas subsequently flopped in Europe, tickets go on general sale through of piazzale Olimpia between via Fra Hellas Verona hit the heights, leading Serie A for a few financial woes resulting in relegation Vivaticket, both online (vivaticket.it) Giocondo and via Sansovino, are all rounds in 1982-83 – and staying there and two changes of name. Worse was to and through outlets such as Boxoffice Hellas-focused. The main one is Stadio, Italian champions in 1985, Hellas in 1984-85. With 1986 World Cup stars follow in 2007 – not only with relegation Verona, near the historic Arena at via immediately facing the stadium, covered Verona (hellasverona.it) gained Hans-Peter Briegel and Preben Elkjaer, to Serie C1 but a subsequent season at Pallone 16. in Hellas scarves and images of the promotion to Serie A in 2013 and 2017. Hellas steamed ahead, beating Napoli the bottom of the lower flight. Bentegodi in its 1990 pomp. Despite a long history and significant fan and Milan. A draw in Bergamo sealed From 11am on match days, tickets are base, the club has spent twice as many the title. This was the first season that Hellas scaled back up to Serie B, gaining distributed from the Hellas Verona On the corner of Sansovino, Olimpia seasons in Serie B than in the top flight. league referees were chosen at random, Serie A status in 2013. In 2014-15, old Ticket Point at Parcheggio A at the also displays Hellas support while at a factor cited by many as the reason soldier became the oldest Bentegodi. the other end of piazzale Olimpia, the After a solitary cup final appearance in for a topsy-turvy table free of dubious Serie A in history and modest Bentegodi is another popular 1976, a golden decade began with the influence. keeping Hellas in a mid-table position. In all cases, ID is required. pre-match spot.

liberoguide.com 42