Classic Plan Coopered Door Cabinet in This Plan You’Ll Find

“America’s leading woodworking authority”™ Classic Plan Coopered Door Cabinet In this plan you’ll find:

• Step-by-step construction instruction. • A complete bill of materials. • Construction drawings and related photos. • Tips to help you complete the project and become a better woodworker.

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Copyright Woodworker’s Journal © 2015 www.woodworkersjournal.com WJC205 esigner Craig Moro recently thumbed through James DKrenov's The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking, which inspired him to try a coopering project. The result, which we offer here, makes a unique cabinet that adapts to a vari­ ety of uses, depending on how you choose to customize the interior. From materials he had on hand, Craig chose an appealing combination of basswood, butternut, and a bit of rosewood. He derived the chip-carved knotwork on Craig designed his cabinet with two drawers the door from a centuries-old Persian design. and three shelves, but you can easily adapt the interior to any number of uses.

Woodworker's Journal Before You Start Craig coopered and sized the door BILL OF MATERIALS first, then fit the cabinet to it. He fine- tuned the fit of the door to the cabinet when it came time to hang it. Craig PART W MTL. QTY. chose basswood for the door both CABINET A Door* ** %" 7" 22y2" B 1 for its stability and its carvability. If 7 B Top/Base* •%*" 6%" 8 / " BN 2 you don't intend to chip-carve the dec­ 8 orative knotwork on your door, you C Sides* "/«" 5%" 22%" BN 2 may want to choose a more richly D Back* 14" 6'5/,6" 23%" BP 1 grained material. E Shelves* %" 4%" 6,5/,G" B 3 Craig used offset knife hinges for hanging the cabinet door. Straight DRAWERS F Front-small* %" 2%" 63/B" BN 1 knife hinges or pivot hinges would also G Front-large* %" 4%" 6%" BN 1

3 3 work, provided they mount on the H Back-small* %" 2 /8" 6 /e" B 1 ends of the door and remain mostly 3 1 Back-large* %" 4%" 6 /e" B 1 invisible. If you select brass knife 5 hinges, you may want to choose a J Sides-small* Vi" 2%" 4 /,6" B 2 5 wood for the door pull that comple­ K Sides-large* %" 4%" 4 /,e" B 2 6 ments brass. Craig opted for bronze- L Bottoms* Vi" 3 /„" B'/ia" BP 2 finish hinges because they go well with the rosewood he used for his pull. M Door pull* 5/11 %" 1%" R 1 3/11 N Mounting cleats* /o 2Vi" 6%" H 2

Cooper the Door 'Parts cut to final size during construction. Please read all instructions Step 1. Face-joint and plane a 10 x 28" before cutting. 3 9 n piece of /t"-thick basswood to /i6 **Part edge-glued from narrower stock. thick. Joint one edge, then select the better face and mark it "outside." MATERIALS LIST

Step 2. Tilt your tablesaw blade to B-basswood %" dowel stock;'/«" dowel stock; oil finish. 5° from perpendicular. Bevel-rip the BN-butternut (For other supplies, see Sources listed at following widths in sequence: P/ie", BP-birch plywood end of article.] 3 l'y,6", 1%", r /16", and 1%»". Note: R-rosewood Bevel the two outside pieces—the l%o" H-hardwood widths—on the inside edge only, leav­ ing the outside edge square. (See figure 1 for an end view of the beveled parts.) For the three interior parts, bevel-rip Figure 1 Bevel-rip the door parts in sequence 0 r-O one edge, then turn the piece end for OS. 5 end (without flipping it over) and bevel- r*-^ c: rip the opposite edge. Now, number 90° 85° 85° f>° 85° 90° 9/16" \ 1 ][ i the parts in sequence and mark the -19/16"- -113/16". -Vie,"- -113/16"- 19/10"-— outside face on each. Step 3. Joint the mating (beveled) the form edges to prevent edges of all door parts. (Craig set his any glue squeeze-out from jointer to remove V32" of stock. Rather adhering it to the door. than attempting to set the jointer fence Step 5. Apply glue to the to match the 85° bevel, he bevel- mating edges of the door ripped one edge of a 2x4 carrier board parts and place them in the to 85° and adhered each part to it with form. (We started with the double-faced tape for jointing .) middle and adjoining pieces, Step 4. Make the clamping form then added the two outer and wedges as described in "Making parts.) Align the ends of the the Clamping Form" on page 5. . Test- parts, then insert the wedges fit the door parts in the form, aligning to apply uniform clamping the ends. Insert opposed wedges along pressure. Work carefully to keep the door aligned square both sides of the form to squeeze the Photo A: Clamp the door parts into the form using joints tight (photo A). Adjust the form's in the form. Allow the glue to opposed wedges, then check to make sure the door fit as necessary. Varnish and then wax dry for 12 hours. is square to the form. Woodworker's Journal W hole Exploded View 3/e"deec 5/16" round-over

3/8" dowel 17/16" long

3/8" hole 3/4" deep

5/16" round-over

V4"-dia. bullet catch

Woodworker's Journal Step 6. To trim the door edges, first Step 7. Remove any twist from the remove the door from the form. Next, door edges. If you have an 8" jointer, make a carrier as shown in figure 2 one light pass should be sufficient. and photo B. Center the door on the Otherwise, cut two sheets of 100-grit carrier and clamp as shown. With sandpaper into 2"-wide strips, then your blade set at 90°, rip equal tape the strips end-to-end in two amounts of stock from both edges to lines 5I/2" apart. Next, place the door 7" final width. on the sandpaper strips crown side

Figure 2 Photo B: Square the door on the carrier and 1/2 x 9/16 x 2" block used clamp firmly. Note that we sized the cross shims at both ends to support the door under the clamps at the first joints. up. Applying light pressure, slide the door back and forth along the sand­ paper strips until you've sanded away all unevenness and made solid con­ tact all along both edges. Step 8. Using a sliding cutoff table on your tablesaw (or miter gauge with extension), square one end of the door. Then, crosscut the other end to 22W long. Step 9. Plane or sand both faces of the door to remove the facets and cre­ 6_ line-up marks ate a smooth curvature. A flat plane or sanding block will work fine for the Make a carrier outside face. For the inside face, to trim door edges make a sanding block that roughly matches the door's curvature. Note: You may elect not to remove the tiny facets on the door's inside face. Making the Clamping Form

Crosscut a 1" length from the same end of all five door trace the arc onto one blank where shown on the drawing parts. Align and edge-glue the cutoffs in sequence using below. Using a straightedge, extend the outside facets of cyanoacrylate glue. Note: You'll use this glue-up to make the arc to add 54" of width on both edges. Then, square a a template for tracing the coopered arc onto the clamp­ line from each end of the arc to the top edge of the blank. ing form blanks. Bandsaw the cutout on the marked blank, staying as Cut three 13%" lengths of 1x4 pine stock. Using the tem­ close to the line as possible. Note: The cut needn't be plate you just made from the door part cutoffs, center and absolutely precise. Test-fit the coopered template in the cutout to make certain the door will Making forms for clamping the coopered door fit. Now, use this blank as a template to make cutouts in the two remaining Insert opposed wedges ' Cut 12 wedges to clamp door parts blanks. Bandsaw both to shape. Approx. 1/2" From %" plywood, rip and cross­ ^ End view cut two 3'/2x24" sides. Assemble 3.1/2" the forms and sides, placing one form at each end and centering 1x4 form 13/16"•- J^ 13/4" the third between them. From 1" stock, cut twelve 5/IGX3" Step 1: Edge-glue door-part cutoffs, then use Insert a pair of opposed as template to establish shape of cutout wedges in both gaps on each wooden wedges. If necessary, sand clamping form (12 wedges total) the mating edges to ensure that the Step 2: Cut blanks to shape wedges slide smoothly.

Woodworker's Journal Now, Build the Cabinet Step 1. Face-joint and plane a 7x20" piece of 5/4 butternut stock to 15/i6M thick. Joint one edge. From this piece, crosscut the top and base (B) 7 to 8 /8" long. Step 2. Using a set of trammel points, lay out the rounded front edge of the top by drawing a centered W/2" radius that peaks 6V2" from the back edge. To do this, temporarily adhere a 9" length of scrap stock to the back edge of the top as shown in figure 3. Scribe the arc on the top blank. Note: This radius does not quite match the door's radius. Step 3. Stack the top and base blanks using double-faced tape. Bandsaw the front edge to shape, keeping your blade outside the line. Sand to the line using a disc sander, then separate the pieces. Step 4. To make the sides, face- joint and plane a 51/2x48" piece of 4/4 butternut to lVle" thick. Joint one edge, then rip the stock to 5/4" wide. To determine the length of the sides, add

77/0"- Vs" to your door length, then crosscut Front View Side View the two sides (C) to this dimension. (Ours measured 225/s" long.)

-63/8" -43/8"- 11/4" Small Drawer 3/8" -29/16"- 1/2 1/4'H r- r -^ -1/4" 1/4 Y a _i M 1 3/8" 11/32 21/32 " 3/4" 15/16 " d^16" © 5/l6"-^t^ -ij/8" 15/16 ' 21/32" 1/4" 7/32" »/4" _1 T Side view T 1/8

-43/8"- 3/8- 1/4" 1/2h lj. n 1 .. Vs" 5/8" 1/4" 7/32" H/,6 d?Zi" 52i"[^ T 1/8" 5/8" (g) 11/16" 7/0' 1/8" —r 5/8" 11/16" 1/8" d3/8" 5/ii"^ 7/8'

5/8" 11/16 78" 1 f ' 1/8 Large Drawer Front view i/4" Side view 7/32"

Woodworker's Journal Figure 3 Laying out the radius Chip-Carved Full-sized on the top/base Knotwork pattern Set trammel ,— point here —

Temporarily adhere scrap piece here,—»- then draw center- line and mark centerpoint at 8' from back edge of®

6V2"

Step 5. Select the outside face on each side and rout a 5/ie" round-over along the outside front edge of these two parts. Next, round over both ends and the front edge of the top and base (along both faces) in end-edge- edges, and press the side down firmly of the top and base as dimensioned on end sequence. to transfer the hole centerpoints to the the Exploded View. To start and stop Step 6. Using a doweling jig, lay base. Repeat this procedure to mark the groove, scribe a pair of layout out and drill four %" holes %" deep in the dowel holes on the opposite side of lines on the back face of each work- both ends of the sides where dimen­ the base and then on the inside face of piece and a pair of corresponding sioned on the Exploded View detail. 3 3 M the top. Drill these /s" holes %" deep. lines on your router table's fence. From A" scrap, cut a 5x6!/2 rectangle Step 8. Using a 54" straight bit, cut Step 10. Lay out and plunge-rout to use as a fence for transferring the a y4n-deep groove along the inside face stopped dadoes for the shelves in hole centerpoints. Center it on the of the sides %" in from the back edge. both sides. (For locations, see the base from side to side, align the back (See the Side View drawing page 6 e Front View drawing.) Start the edges, then clamp it to the base. and the Exploded View.) Note: Save dadoes 54" from the front edges and Step 7. Insert dowel centers in the this setup for the following step. rout to the back grooves. Square the four holes in the bottom end of a side. Step 9. Using the same setup, rout stopped front end of each dado with a (See figure 4.) Place the side tight a stopped groove along the inside face sharp chisel. against the fence, align the back Step 11. Dry-assemble the top, bot­ tom, and sides, temporarily using V2" Figure 4 Transferring dowel lengths of dowel. Check for square hole centerpoints and twist. Measure the inside, add the Lay out 6V2" inside cabinet width on top/base, then clamp fence along layout line depth of the grooves, and cut the back -Press side © firmly against (D) to fit from 54" birch plywood. fence before transferring Step 12. For the three shelves (E), dowel hole centerpoint surface a 5x24" piece of basswood to 54" thick. Joint one edge, rip it wide -3/a" dowel center enough to fit the dadoes, then cross­ cut the shelves to fit. Insert the Top/base ® (front view) -Transfer hole centerpoint to top/base ® shelves and back without glue, disas­ -6V2" (inside width of cabinet) - sembling the sides, top, and bottom 11/16" (thickness of side ( just enough to do this. Check for fit, and adjust if necessary.

Woodworker's Journal Make the Dovetailed trace its outline using a Photo C: To position hinges on sharp #3 pencil. (See door ends, offset the pinned sec­ Drawers photo C for location.) tion to clear the edge. Use par­ ing action to cut the hinge gain Step 1. Measure the two drawer Note: The entire hinge in the door's end grain. openings in your dry-assembled cabi­ arm should lie over the net. Subtract Vie" from the width and door, while the shorter, depth and Vs" fromth e length (side-to- pinned segment should side dimension). Using these dimen­ clear it completely. Re­ sions, cut drawer fronts (F, G) for the peat this step to mount upper and lower drawers from !4"-thick the hinge on the bottom I butternut. From %"-thick basswood, end of the door. Mark cut backs (H, I) for the drawers to the the depth of the hinge same dimensions. Now, cut two sides leaf on the edge of the (J, K) for each drawer from '/V'-thick door for both hinges. basswood stock. Carefully score the out­ Step 2. Select and mark an outside line in the end grain with face on each drawer part. Then, lay a sharp knife, then use a chisel to score Step 6. Dry-assemble the cabinet out and cut through dovetails on the the depth line. and attach the door. Check the door parts as dimensioned on the Drawer Step 2. Carefully pare the hinge for fit and action. If the door binds as drawing on page 6. . gains to depth using a W' chisel. you open it, plane a bit of stock from Step 3. Dry-assemble the two Next, fit the hinges in their gains. the back of its hinged edge. Now, drawers to check for fit, and adjust as Using a Vix bit, drill the screw holes, remove the door from the hinges. necessary. Measure the interior then temporarily screw the hinges to Step 7. To install the bullet catch, dimensions, adding %e" to the width the door. drill a 14" hole in the bottom end of the and length for groove depth. (This Step 3. Lay the dry-assembled cab­ door using a doweling jig. (For loca­ leaves an extra Vie" of groove depth.) inet on its back. Tap the top and bot­ tion, see the detail on the Exploded From W'-thick plywood, cut two draw­ tom slightly to loosen them, creating View.) Tap the spring-loaded half of er bottoms (L) to these dimensions. clearance for the hinges. Center the the catch into the hole, then reattach Step 4. Using a 14" straight bit, rout door from side to side in its opening, the door to the hinges. With the door W-deep stopped grooves (stopping and insert Vie" spacers top and bottom closed, establish and mark the loca­ Vs" from both ends) along the inside to center the door vertically. Add W tion for the mating half of the catch in faces of the drawer sides %" from the spacers to shim the hinged edge of the base. Temporarily disassemble bottom edge. (See the Small Drawer the door out from the cabinet. (Craig the cabinet, then drill the hole in the front view drawing.) Rout identical used pasteboard from the back of a base using your drill press. Insert the through grooves along the inside note pad.) Now, draw a faint line along catch, then reassemble the cabinet. faces of the fronts and backs. the hinged edge to mark the door's Step 5. Transfer the full-sized location on the edge of the side. Chip-Carve the Optional Finger Cutout pattern shown on the Double-check the door's position, Knotwork Drawer drawing to the center top then secure it with masking tape. edge of both drawer fronts. Bandsaw Step 1. Transfer the full-sized Step 4. Close the hinges, aligning Knotwork pattern on page to the and sand the cutouts to shape. Then, the two leaves precisely. Trace 7 finish-sand the inside faces of all door face where dimensioned on the around the pinned segment of the Front View drawing. drawer parts. hinge (as much of it as you can) to Step 6. Glue, assemble, and clamp establish the hinge's location on the two drawers. After the glue has the top and base. Remove the dried, sand the joints flush. Next, rout door, then remove the hinges from the Vs" and Vie" round-overs on the the door. drawers where shown. Then, finish- Step 5. Temporarily disassem­ sand the exterior drawer surfaces. ble the cabinet. Position the hinges on the top and base, then Now, Hang the Door trace around any parts that you Step 1. Position one of the knife couldn't reach before. Score the hinges on the top end of the door hinge gains, this time using a chis­ where shown on the Exploded View. el for the straight lines. Cut the (To mail-order hinges, see Sources gains to depth (photo D). Then, drill screw holes and attach the Photo D: Attach hinges to door, position door on listed at the end of the article.) Center cabinet, align both hinge leaves, and mark hinge the hinge between the faces, then hinges to the cabinet. location on the top ana base. Then, cut cabinet gains as shown.

Woodworker's Journal dadoes in one side. Apply intermittent Figure 5 Cutting order and Door Pull beads of glue to the back groove— direction for removing each chip Full-sized pattern avoiding the shelves, which must float freely—then assemble the back to the Note: Cut in clockwise direction if right- handed, counter clockwise if left-handed. side. Apply glue to the dowels on one Make stop cuts ©and (2) first. Hold 1/2" Pull (0) 3/4" end of the cleat and insert them into knife at a constant 65° to the chip the holes in the side. Assemble the you're removing. WT) opposite side to these parts, applying Side view glue as before. Now, glue, assemble, 1 -1 1/4" and clamp the top and bottom to the 3/16" • ! sides and back. Check for square, 1/4" ^^\__^5/6" I then allow the glue to dry. Step 3. Finish-sand all surfaces that es/te" Note: Cut along j still need it to 220-grit. Remove dust thick outer lines only. Thin inner Top view with a tack cloth or compressed air. lines indicate Step 4. Apply your choice of finish. contour of the profile to shape. Sand the pull to 220- (Craig mixed two parts tung oil with completed carving. grit, breaking the corners only slight­ one part satin varnish, then thinned ly. Glue and clamp the pull to the door. this blend 1:1 with mineral spirits. He Step 2. Using a sharp chip-carving Step 5. To make the two mounting- applied three coats to all surfaces, knife, remove each chip by cutting in cleats (N), cut a 5x7" blank from %"- rubbing between coats with a fine the order and direction shown in fig­ thick hardwood. Tilt your tablesaw flexible abrasive pad.) ure 5. blade to 20° from perpendicular, and Step 5. Drill and countersink two bevel-rip the blank in half. Measure u/!;-i" shank holes centered between the width across the back of the cabi­ the ends of the wall cleat. Attach the net between the sides, then crosscut cleat (beveled edge up) to the wall in the cleats to fit. your chosen location, driving a pair of Add the Door Pull and Step 6. Using a doweling jig, drill #8x2" flathead wood screws into a 1 Wall-Mounting Cleat two W holes %" deep in both ends of stud. Note: If you can't locate the cleat the mounting cleat. Note: You'll use over a stud, use an appropriate wall- Step 1. Lay out and cut a centered l { 5 the remaining piece for the mating mounting fixture. \ty Ax.W mortise Ae" deep in the rightwall-mounte d cleat. Insert dowel cen­ edge of the door where dimensioned ters in the holes, then disassemble Project designer and builder: Craig Mow on the Side and Exploded Views. the cabinet enough to fit the cleat Illustrations: Don and Karen Panli Note: Because of the difficulty of Photos: SludioAlex between the back edges of the two Produced by: Doug Cantwell clamping a coopered door, Craig pares sides. (See the Side View for loca­ out the mortise waste without clamp­ tion.) Square the cleat to the sides ing (which is not difficult in bass- with its beveled edge down. Then, wood), then squares the corners. If press both sides firmly to transfer the you use a harder wood, clamp the hole centerpoints. Disassemble the door securely, since you'll need to do cabinet and drill 54" holes %" deep in more chopping than paring. the sides. Step 2. To make the door pull (M), l 3 3 Step 7. Cut, groove, and chamfer A" first cut a Ax Ax6" blank from a dark, dowels n/i6M long. Glue them into the richly grained wood. (Craig used cleat holes, leaving UAJ[ protruding. rosewood.) Cut a Vix'A" tenon W long on one end, locating it 3Aen from one face. Test-fit the tenon in the mortise, Assemble the Cabinet, and adjust as necessary. Then Apply Finish Step 3. Transfer the full-sized Step 1. Finish-sand the shelves, Door Pull side view pattern shown the back, and the inside faces of above to one face of the pull blank. the top, bottom, and sides. Next, cut, Using a half-round rasp or oscillating groove, and chamfer sixteen %X17/IB" spindle sander, form the two arcs dowels, then glue them into the holes along the edges. in the ends of the sides, leaving "/!«" Step 4. Transfer the Door Pull top protruding. view pattern to the appropriate edge, Step 2. Glue, assemble, and clamp then bandsaw the profile, staying the cabinet. To do this, first assemble wide of the line. Carve and/or file the the shelves (without glue) into their Woodworker's Journal