June 2007 Volume 18 No. 5 Making a Curved Bead two approaches to sharpening scrapers U IL D E G OF TH W IRE OO SH D P W O M R

A K

H

E

R

W

E S

N

• •

Founded 1990 www.gnhw.org The Newsletter of the Guild of New Hampshire Woodworkers

rounding an edge • making a cabriole leg snake oil • birds mouth joint • laser cutting • tool review

photo by Bill Truslow

Jun 2 BIG Brian Sargent – contemporary night stands Jun 24 Summer Trip … New Date – p3 Jul 28 GSWT Aug 4-12 NH Craftsmen’s Fair Sculpting a Sept 22 Annual Meeting … Sanbourn Mills Farm Contemporary Leg president’s message by Dave Anderson  Shop Safety

t’s late spring now and we are are obvious but bear repeating. Others use it? almost into summer. While many are matters of attitude and mindset. • Are your lights and of us will shift our focus from outlets on separate working in the shop to graduations, • Alcohol or prescription drugs = no shop time. circuits so you Iweddings, vacations and the ever present • Is your first aid kit up to date, full and able to don’t go dark with yard work, we all will try to squeeze in handle a traumatic injury? cutters and blades a little woodworking time. With all • Fire extinguisher charged and up to date? still moving if a breaker trips? of the demands on our time and the • Is there adequate ventilation for the finish • Have you read the instruction manual along distractions around us buzzing through you are using or do you have the appropriate with the safety precautions page on all of your our heads, extra care is in order. It’s time respirator? power tools? to talk about shop safety. • Is the shop floor free of slippery sawdust and We all know the message that shavings and are walkways and work areas If you can answer yes to all of the Norm Abram gives about safety glasses free of tripping hazards? items I’ve listed, you’ve made a good so I won’t bother with that one. ‘Nuff • Is there a dust collection or is there a respirator start toward being safe. I like to think said. But think about distraction and to protect you against wood dust inhalation? that the most important rule in the shop fatigue. These are to my mind the • Are you fully alert, rested and mentally for safety is: If you are uncomfortable most subtle and yet real cause of most prepared to give your woodworking full with an operation and the little voice in accidents when you get beyond the attention? your head is talking to you – listen. Find obvious technique errors. Think three • Dull tools give worse wounds and can also ruin another way, abandon the idea, but don’t or four times about going into the shop projects. Is everything sharp? go ahead as you originally planned. If and working if you are tired, drowsy or • Have you planned tablesaw rip cuts to be out you think it’s unsafe, it is, and there is have a lot of other things weighing on of the line of any kickbacks? Are you using probably an accident waiting to happen. your mind. The project will still be there feather boards, board buddies, anti-kickback I hope you find this little discussion next time, and even if you don’t get hurt, pawls or some other safety device? helpful and that it provokes some your chances of making an error greatly • Are all of your machine guards installed and thought on your part. It’s by no means a increase when tired. working properly? comprehensive discussion of safety, but What follows is a list of some of • Do you have push sticks, push blocks and it’s a starting point. the things we need to think about and other devices to keep hands away from cutters, Work safely, enjoy your summer check out to see if our shop itself is safe blades, and knives? and I hope to see you all at Sunapee in and ready for work. Some of these items • Do you have hearing protection, and do you August.

U IL D E G OF TH W IRE OO SH D P W O M R

A K

H

Steering Committee E

R

W

E S

N •

President Dave Anderson 603-887-6267 [email protected] • Vice President David Frechette 802-633-2561 [email protected] Scholarship Committee Secretary Greg Benulis 978-314-5815 [email protected] Selection Committee John McAlevey 207-273-2535 [email protected] Treasurer Peter James 603-435-8133 [email protected] Selection Committee Peter Breu 603-647-2327 [email protected] At Large Peter Breu 603-647-2327 [email protected] Selection Committee Jack Grube 603-432-4060 [email protected] At Large Jack Grube 603-432-4060 [email protected] Member Peter Bloch 603-526-6152 [email protected] At Large Jon Siegel 603-768-5882 [email protected] Member Bob Jarrett 978-456-3928 [email protected] At Large George Saridakis 978 549-1807 [email protected] — Please send all applications to John McAlevey, Selection Committee Chair At Large Bob LaCivita 603-942-1240 [email protected] At Large Andy Young 603-672-9558 [email protected] Volunteer Positions At Large Caleb Dietrich 603-556-1629 [email protected] Books Tony Immorlica 603-673-9629 [email protected] At Large John Whiteside 603-679-5443 [email protected] Membership DJ Delorie 603-463-5996 [email protected] Old Saw Editor Jim Seroskie 603-673-2123 [email protected] Old Saw Mailing Syd Lorandeau 603-542-5295 slorandeau@verizon. net Past President Roger Myers 603-773-9634 [email protected] Shirts/Hats Peter James 603-435-8133 [email protected] Programs Sal Morgani 603-772-1006 [email protected] Small Meetings Open Position Sunapee Fair Coordinator Wendy Mullett 603-332-1039 [email protected] SubGroups Sunapee Raffle Coordinator Jim Dimick 603-228-1131 [email protected] BIG Bob LaCivita 603-942-1240 [email protected] Video Librarian John Pitrone 603-894-5893 [email protected] GSWT Jon Siegel 603-768-5882 [email protected] Video Recording Peter Bloch 603-526-6152 [email protected] Period Furniture John Whiteside 603-679-5443 [email protected] Web Master DJ Delorie 603-463-5996 [email protected]

The Guild of New Hampshire Woodworkers – Bringing together the diverse interests of the New Hampshire woodworking community. “The Old Saw” is published five times per year. To join the Guild, go towww.gnhw.org and click on “Membership “ to download an application form. announcements 

Sunday, June 24th, 2007 – 10:00 am Guild Summer Trip at Japanese Tools in Pepperell, MA

ave you ever wondered Director of the Shizutani Directions from Manchester, NH if Japanese tools were School. He is a graduate of the Hright for you? Do the chisels North Bennett Street School Take the Everett Turnpike south really hold an edge better of Boston. He was a resident Everett Turnpike becomes US-3 than western chisels? Does of Japan for 12 years (1987- Take the 111/111A exit –EXIT 5W toward Nashua/Pepperell, MA sawing on the pull stroke 1998), studying traditional Take the RT-111W exit- EXIT 5W toward RT-111A/Peperell, MA give you more control than Japanese crafts, especially Turn Right onto NH-111 (Crossing into MA) – 7.3 miles pushing a western type saw? urushi (lacquering); fluent Turn Left onto Hollis St/MA-111W – 0.7 miles Well now these and any Japanese speaker; Teacher of Enter next roundabout and take 1st exit onto MA-113 – 0.9 miles other questions on Japanese Kuri Mono ( Japanese dug Turn Right onto Jewett St – 1.5 miles tools and joinery can be out objects) techniques. He Turn Left onto Shattuck St.– 0.1 miles answered by an expert if is an avid edge tool sharpener 51 Shattuck St., Pepperell Ma. 01463 — 1-877-692-3624 you participate in this years and has demonstrated his Guild Summer Trip. techniques all over the US. On Sunday June 24th He will be opening his shop for us he will set up 10 stations where we can try our hand at Guild members will be going and school for us and will sharpening blades. to Japanese Tools of Pepperell, give demonstrations on the This is one trip you don’t want to miss. Get your car pools MA. proper use of Japanese tools, set up. Plan to arrive at 10 am. Bring your lunch and a chair. Harrelson Stanley with joinery techniques, and You can access a map on the web at his wife Sayuri is Owner/ sharpening. As a special treat www.japanesetools.com. Click on Contact Us. – Sal Morgani

Sunapee Fair Guild Luthiers August 4th – August 12th, 2007 June 10th, 2007 – 1:00 - 4:00 pm

s most of you already o you know what this The organizational know, the Guild of picture shows? Are you meeting will be on Sunday, ANH Woodworkers has the Dintrigued? Then this new June 10 from 1-4pm in privilege of having one of group is for you! Fremont, NH. We will the largest booths at the The Guild Luthiers is a decide as a group when and Sunapee Fair (besides the new Guild subgroup that how often we want to meet, food tent) and it’s no small will be devoted to discussing what topics we want to cover, challenge to be able to staff the building of stringed and so forth. Come and get such a large booth for the instruments. Bring a guitar in on the ground floor (or nine days of the fair. or a fiddle to the meeting, the opening notes). To sign Although it may seem because we also plan to up, contact John Whiteside at a bit premature to solicit spend some time jamming [email protected] or volunteers now, we will and trading licks. 603-679-5443. need almost 100 people to effectively manage the booth during the nine days of the fair. related craft. We also need We need volunteers volunteers to sell raffle tickets willing to do demonstrations for the items donated by such as woodturning, some of our members, and to dovetailing, toolmaking, help answer questions about furniture part making, scroll the Guild, its programs, and sawing, woodcarving, and how to join the Guild. almost any other wood Continued on Page 25 Write to [email protected] with your questions 

Epoxy – Are there advantages Urethane is similar to varnish in in wood thickness will be on the inside Q and disadvantages using that its thinner is often mineral spirits of the piece. epoxy coatings and adhesives (West and one or more synthetic resins. It is In joining a table skirt to the legs I system specifically)? How about durable but is often plastic looking. leave about a half inch shoulder at the water proof glues vs standard yellow Modern lacquer is made in many top so the tenon isn’t exposed at the top glues? – Harvey Best formulations and with a combination of of the leg. The bottom of the skirt has strong solvents. Like shellac, lacquer has no shoulder in order to make the tenon Marty Milkovits replies: In a nut the ability to burn in, that is, one coat as long as possible. Some antique work shell, epoxy is extremely strong and dissolves into the previous coat, giving has a variable shoulder on the inside water proof. It’s great for filling voids exceptional depth to the overall finish. that corresponds to variations in stock and is very versatile. Mix only what you Traditional shellacs and lacquers thickness, but the outside shoulder need because they have a short pot life. have long been used for their clarity, is constant, having been set with a However all epoxies are not created decorative appeal and versatility. Varnish marking gauge. The driving reason equal. They all have been engineered for and urethane are good choices when in sizing tenons is maximum gluing specific applications. You cannot use durability is the key factor. These days, surface – shoulders provide stability one type of epoxy in all cases. You need almost all the finishes, even shellac, can against racking, so you must balance the to do your homework before buying the have formulations using water as their two. stuff. vehicle rather than solvents. I generally Yellow glue (Titebond) is great for favor solvent based finishes for high end Finish on Figured Wood almost all indoor applications. For work and water base for less demanding Q – I am building several heavily outdoor applications, I use Titebond applications such as cabinet interiors. figured maple tables. What would III, even though they claim it is you recommend for the surface waterproof, it cannot be submerged for Tools Turing Dark – Why finish to highlight the figuring and any length of time. I have not found any Q do my tools turn dark from not significantly change the color? single part glue that is truly waterproof. my skin? – Anon Also what type of fill (epoxy or other) Waterproof glue can be used in any would you recommend for the knot indoor application. A Resorcinol Bob LaCivita replies: Tools turn dark holes and other features? – Anon resin glue is a generally a good choice, because of acid in your skin. Everybody although it has a short pot life. has this but, some people have more Harvey Best replies: I would then others. This is always a question in recommend a light sanding with 180 Best Finish – What are a school situation when some students sandpaper as a preparation for a wash Q the functional differences have nice bright tools and others are coat of shellac. The shellac I prefer is a between shellac, varnish, urethane, darkening and they were bought on the one pound cut using super blond flakes and lacquer finishes? How do I decide same day. The darkening even varies dissolved in alcohol; a fresh mix no which is best for any particular from person to person. more than 48 hours old. Using a good project? – Peter Bloch China bristle brush I spread the shellac Haunched Tenons – When as quickly as possible in the direction of Gary R. Wood replies: I like to Q using haunched tenons to the grain without over-brushing. The distinguish finishes by their solvents join table rails to legs, should there blond shellac will highlight the grain and resins. Alcohol solvent dissolves be a shoulder at the top and bottom without adding significant color. shellac gum resin and so shellac is never or just on the sides? – Dave Frechette For filling knots and voids in the alcohol proof even when completely surface I try using shellac sticks to cured. Shellac is, however, a flexible and Al Breed replies: I align mortises with blend and fill with a color to match protective film that can be repaired by tenons by using a marking gauge set to the grain. Follow up with sanding up careful application of more shellac. the mortise width and referenced to the to 220 grit and top coat with lacquer or Modern varnishes may use alkyd outside of the piece. Using these marks, polyurethane. resins and often have mineral spirits I cut the tenons on a dado blade or by as their vehicle or thinner. Once the hand, and set the mortising machine to Marty Milkovits replies: Several thinner is evaporated, there is a durable chop the mortise. This way, the outside of coats of oil, each given sufficient time film that is resistant to most liquids, heat the joint will be flush and any difference to dry and rubbed back will give a depth and scratching. Continued on Page 25 beginner’s corner by Bob Oswald

Rounding an Edge

familiar with. The discussion of features better to have a more powerful 1/2˝ one that follow will hopefully help you in as your only router. the decision making process. Router features include: What Else Do You Want to Do – In making your choice, you want to consider • Fixed vs plunge base. Fixed is the most future applications to the extent that common but if you can get an add-on you can. I have a Bosch 1617EVS 21/4 plunge base, it’s a great bonus. Plunge base Horsepower Variable-Speed Router. I allows you to start the router over the work like it and only mention it here to give and when ready, push the bit into the work. you a starting point. It has electronic But it takes a little extra coordination. variable speed and a nice depth adjustment. Dual collet wrenches and outers – so much to know; so • Depth adjustment – the most useful feature both 1/4˝ and 1/2˝ collets are standard. I Rmany variations – probably more is being able to easily and accurately set the bought a package that also included than any other tool. I think it is the cutting depth. Without a good system, it’s a plunge base and carrying case. Use most universal tool in the shop. It has a tedious and inaccurate process to get the this one to trade off the features it has unique capabilities and can duplicate depth set properly. against others you review. the functions of many other tools. As a drill press, a plunge router is a precision, • Pistol grip or knobs on the base – pistol grip Choosing the Bit – So you’ve selected the blind hole drill. As a tablesaw, it can is nicer for extended use, a lot of cutting or router, now you need a bit. A round over make dados. It can trim curved and where you need more accurate control. Buy bit will make a smooth radius corner complex edges better than a bandsaw. it if it’s a bargain. where the round comes out flush with It’s amazing! the flat. If you want a fancier look, a I want to put a rounded edge on a • Trigger switch or slide switch – trigger on plaque I am making. I know I need a the handle is very convenient for higher Continued on Page 24 router. There are so many. Which do production cutting and for safety. I buy? What else do I need? For this project, the two items you need are a • Dual collet – this gives you the freedom to router and a round-over or a beading buy some specialty bits that may only come bit. with a 1/2 “ shank. Routers basically fall into two types – standard and plunge. Standard is • Speed control – very nice if you plan to use the most common. It differs from the larger bits for projects like edging cabinet plunge router in that the plunge allows doors. The larger bits need to run slower. Bearing the router motor to sit above the work and be pushed down into the work. • Soft start – nice, especially when hand held Typically, plunge routers cost more. or with large diameter bits. It reduces the Roundover Bit jerk at startup. Which Router to Buy – Routers come in dozens of models in many brands • Dual wrenches vs locking rotor – either one from Bosch, Makita, Porter Cable, works. The dual wrench where one grabs Delta, Dewalt and more. The brands the shaft is easier to locate than rotating and models are distinguished from the shaft until the lock is engaged. each other by a number of features. Features are typically convenience If you are going to remain at the items – some more important than hobby level for a long time, a small others. They generally add to the price, 1/4˝ router will serve you well. If you Bearing so shop your way as high as you want are going to cut a lot of larger pieces, to go. It’s best to talk to a sales person, furniture and cabinets, you would be read magazines or go with what you’re Bead Bit April 14th, 2007 by Brad Weeks Making a Cabriole Leg Dan Faia at the Homestead School in Newmarket, NH

Conversely, a bull’s-eye, which has the grain direction running side to side, produces a topography type contour line pattern on the knee. After the introduction, the fun began. Dan described the steps necessary to construct a cabriole leg with a pad foot. The basic procedure is as follows: • Layout • Rough cut the legs • Turning the foot • Cutting the mortises • Cutting off the transition blocks from the top of the leg • Shaping the leg • Adding transition blocks

Layout A paper copy of the plywood cabriole leg template was passed out during the meeting. Even though the template was for a leg that was 17˝ long, this template could be used for any length. Dan noted the knee and ankle areas stay the same. The distance between the knee and ankle changes the length of the cabriole leg. ue to weather delays versatility of the cabriole leg has The template was copied onto the inside legs of a Din March, the much been its greatest asset. Multiple square blank. Again, pay particular attention to the anticipated Cabriole Leg small feet, such as a Trifit, Slipper, grain direction you have selected for the project. You meeting occurred instead, in April Chippendale, or Queen-Anne, do not want to have the grain direction on one leg a with great weather and attendance. can be used with this leg. In bull’s-eye and flow lines on another. The template did A large crowd assembled at the addition, the knee of the leg can not account for the extra length of wood that needs Homestead School to listen and be supplemented with a shell to be left at the top of the wood blank which will be observe Dan Faia step us through carving or acanthus leaf. Students used later for the transition blocks. the making of a cabriole leg. at North Bennett construct a stool Dan’s wealth of knowledge which models four cabriole legs comes from being a graduate of with different types of feet. the North Bennett Street School. Dan stresses the importance Dan now teaches at his alma mater of grain direction. One example and supplements his knowledge of poor grain direction would be by building custom furniture. a bull’s-eye offset from the knee He has recently authored an of the leg. Great care must be article, Porringer-Top Tea Table, in taken in selecting the lumber. Dan Fine Woodworking’s June edition. recommends using 12/4 lumber Coincidently, a portion of that that is rift sawn. Although this article describes the steps he takes task to find rift sawn lumber may in constructing a hand-shaped be time consuming, the rewards cabriole leg. are worthwhile. According to Dan, the first Once the lumber has been known book about cabriole legs selected, the grain direction (flow was published in France between lines or bull’s-eyes) will determine 1769 and 1775. The cabriole leg the look of the leg. Flow lines became prominent in America will produce vertical lines on the during the Georgian Period and leg if the end grain runs from the is still used today. Perhaps the inside corner to the outside corner. photos by Jeff Fleisher 

demonstrate cutting the mortises, people prefer to leave a bridge at the ankle area on he did stress the importance of the first cut. You chose which method works for you. paying attention to laying out and With the scraps removed, the leg reveals its rough cutting the mortises on the inside shape. legs. Prior to shaping, one good way to hold the leg for hand work is to secure the leg in a pipe clamp which Cutting off the Transition Blocks is secured in a bench vise. Fair the sides of the leg first With the foot turned and the to get rid of bandsaw marks. A spokeshave works well mortises cut, one step remains for this task. A #49 Nicholson rasp also works well before shaping the leg. The extra especially for the tight curves. length on the wood blank that The leg is now ready for shaping, but how do you will be used for the transition hand shape a number of cabriole legs to look the blocks can now be cut off. Mark same? A former teacher at North Bennett School, the transition blocks before you Will Neptune, developed the 5/7 rule. The basis of

Dan Faia do this. Dan uses a simple line this rule allows the individual to layout the areas of down the front of the wood blank wood to be removed by scribing pencil lines onto the Rough Cutting the Legs for reference. Two transition leg in a systematic way. The cabriole leg used for this blocks are cut from the top of Again, the chamfers of wood to be removed can demonstration had already been the blank above the mortise. The be done with either a chisel, rasp, spokeshave or a rough cut to 2 5/8˝ square by 17˝ first transition block will be cut combination thereof. The curve on the back of the long from a 12/4 board. What was directly above the mortise which missing from this wood blank was will then be located on the side the extra length needed for the of the leg that will be most visible. transition blocks. The importance This transition block will have of this will be described later. grain direction and color that Suffice to say you should add at should better match the knee of least 3˝ for each transition block the leg. Obviously, the further the which will increase the length of transition block is cut away from this wood blank from 17˝ to 23˝. the knee, the harder it may be to match the grain between the Turning the Foot transition block and knee. The Now that the wood blank has second transition block will be been prepared, a marking gauge located on the side of the leg that was used to find the center on will not be noticed as much such the ends of the blank. If the blank as the side view of a table. Now was not perfectly square using a you can cut the legs to their final marking gauge will find the true length. center of the blank. The wood blank was mounted on the lathe to Shaping the Leg turn the foot. The location of the The shape of the legs has maximum diameter of the turned already been drawn on the wood foot was about 5/8˝ up from the blank. The remaining wood at the bottom. A spindle gouge was used top of the post is not cut away at to make the transition from the this time. By leaving the wood foot’s maximum diameter point at the top post for now, it makes to the fillet. Dan uses a skew to it easier to have a flat surface to create a V-cut on top of the foot to work from in cutting out the leg help locate the toe. The bottom of profile. the ankle could also be turned at The shape of the leg was cut this stage but Dan chose to shape out on the bandsaw. The pencil the bottom of the ankle with a lines drawn for the profile of the chisel later on in the process. leg are not sawn away. As you are bandsawing near the top of the Cutting the Mortises knee area, more wood is left for At this stage, the mortises shaping later on. Dan prefers to for the aprons should be cut re-attach the scrap wood from the while the wood blank is still first side of the leg with tape to aid square. Although Dan did not in cutting the second side. Some  ankle was shaped with a chisel. With the shaping done, scribe For a two hour class, there was a wealth of A rasp or scraper can be used to the apron location onto the inside information presented. With the notes I took, and yes smooth out the final finish. post. The waste blocks on the front my hand was wore out from writing at the end, my of the leg post are now sawed off. hopes are to be able to reproduce beautiful cabriole legs on future projects in my shop. Shape the Transition Blocks The meeting concluded with a PowerPoint The final step was not presentation about the North Bennett Street School. demonstrated but the process was Thanks Dan. described in detail. The transition blocks help make the transition from the vertical leg to the apron. The grain is orientated vertically to match the leg. With the block held in place, the profile of the knee is drawn onto it. The blocks are cut to rough shape, attached with glue, and trimmed to final form. Typically, the transition blocks are added after the piece has been assembled. The final form can be shaped with a sharp chisel and finished by scraping, filing or sanding smooth. The top of the transition block and the top of the knee are made flush by using a shoulder plane. By laying the shoulder plane body against the apron, run the plane across the top of the knee and transition block. Finally, the curves underneath the transition blocks are smoothed out with a rasp.  by Brian Sargent Sculpting a Contemporary Leg

joinery into the leg while everything is square. On this leg, we need a round tenon for attaching the leg to the top and a round mortise for the stainless steel stretcher that connects the four legs together at the base. I use a machine called a multi-router that uses templates to cut the round tenon. The placement of photo by Bill Truslow tenons on the top of the leg is determined by using the leg profile template. his article will show how tapers in two plans, both two halves to 17/16˝ thick x The round mortise is Tby using some of the from top to bottom. The leg 31/4˝ wide x 29˝ long. done on the drill press using methods used to make a has an inside and outside. I then glue-up the two the bottom of the leg as a cabriole leg, you can make a The inside is concaved and halves as accurately as reference. The depth of this contemporary sculptured leg. the outside is convexed. possible. I’m already at my mortise is critical. So again by The process starts with Now that we have the finished thickness after the using the leg profile template designing of the leg itself. basic design, we have to plan gluing-up. Now I only have we can see how deep to drill This leg evolved from an out how to make the leg. to joint one edge square the mortise in the 27/8˝ wide elliptical leg that I used on Just as with the cabriole leg, with the top surface and rip surface using the glue seam a chest of drawers in 2003. there is a sequence to cutting the width to 3˝ wide. Then I as a center line. The sculptural element was this sculptured leg out, so square one end and cut the Now comes the fun part. inspired by a client that one must think through the leg to the finished length of We need to trace the profile wanted me to design a pair tentative process of making the leg template using a stop of the leg on to the 3˝ wide of night stands for him. This the leg. This is not always – all the legs are the same face of our leg blocks. The client had some very free completed in one sitting. length. reference point for the profile form sculptures throughout Sometimes one has to sleep At this point, we are template are the backside of his home. So for the night on it. already to machine any the leg at the bottom and the stands to work in his home, The leg will come out of I felt the need to have a a 27/8˝ thick by 3˝ wide by sculptured element in them. 27˝ long block. The legs for I use 1/4˝ thick and 3/4˝ wide the night stands are Marado, pieces of wood of varying which is only available in 4/4 length to come up with and 8/4, so I had to glue up shapes that I design in my two pieces of 8/4 to get my furniture. All we need to get 27/8˝ thickness. It is important started is a one dimensional to select the wood for color shape or the profile of the leg and grain as this seam runs in this case. The profile shape down the center of the leg. will be used to make jigs and After the selection of stock as a template to bandsaw out and keeping the pairs of the legs. This leg basically each leg together. I mill the Templates for the shape of the leg photos by Brian Sargent

top. We are going to bandsaw leg. Lay the back side of the the inside the leg. We need leg and jigs on a 3/4˝ piece to bandsaw to within a 1/16˝ of plywood and clamp your of the line. sandwich together at the Next we have to make bottom only. At the top drill a template that will help a small hole large enough to clean-up the bandsaw marks get a #6 screw through the and be used as a guide for round tenon and screw the making the concave inside top of the leg block to the 3/4˝ of the leg. This is done by piece of plywood and clamp cutting two pieces of scrap the plywood to your bench. MDF or plywood 3/4˝ thick Now as we said earlier, the by 3˝ wide by 27˝ long. leg is tapered in two planes Now trace the inside leg so the concaved inside of the profile only onto the two leg must be tapered from Bottom of the leg with the shape of the leg traced onto it jig boards using the same top to bottom. The finished reference point as you did width of the leg is 23/4˝ at the on the leg blocks. Then bottom and 13/8˝ at the top. bandsaw out the inside leg So we need to lay this out on profile. Then screw the leg the inside face of the leg so template onto one of the jig we can see this taper. blocks and use a router and You will need a router and a bit with a bearing to give a fence that mounts to your you a jig that matches your router and a 11/2˝ diameter template exactly. cove bit. The depth of the You will then use this jig concave is 1/4˝ at the bottom to clean up the bandsaw cut and a 1/8˝ at the top of the on our leg blocks. To do this, leg. This translates into a 43/4˝ you will need a router bit radius that needs to be drawn with a bearing that has at on the bottom and top of the least 2˝ of cutter length and a leg so you can line up your Top of the leg router table. You must screw router and fence to know the one of the templates that you depth of the concave radius just made to the leg block across the width of the leg. referencing the back side of The trick to getting the the block. Place the screws concave taper is elevating near the edge of the backside the top ends of both of the of the leg, so the screw holes jig pieces 13/64˝. This setup is don’t end up showing in the for roughing out the inside finish leg. You should only be of the leg. You only need to taking off the 1/16˝ that you reset your router fence three left when you bandsawed times and make a total of out the inside of the leg. It five passes per leg – once will take two passes to clean down the middle and two up one leg because your leg passes down each side. You is 27/8˝ thick and you only will also have to adjust the have a 2˝ cutter. depth three times also. Top of the leg with the concave inside & the taper cut off on both sides Now we are ready to set When you run the router up our jig for convexing the on top of the jig, the fence leg usually out of poplar to for the shape of the back inside of the leg. runs on the outside of the make sure the taper depth is of the leg. By tracing the Take the two jig pieces jig and you press the front right and to get comfortable template onto the bottom you made and a leg block and of the router base down as with the jig. and top of the legs, I have a make a sandwich with the leg you push forward. It takes After all of the legs are guide to remove the material block in the middle. Line up a little getting use to having roughed out on the inside, it with my spoke shave. the back and the bottom of the front of the router base is time to shape the back side The next step is to the leg just like you did when in contact with the jig. I of the leg. I used a French bandsaw the taper on the you routed the inside of the always make up one extra curve to make the template leg using the bandsaw. By 12

placing the back side of shape of the leg. You will the leg on the bandsaw, the find that you can easily get inside curve will be face up. lost in the process. When I The line that was used for the get close to the desired shape tapered concave jig should with the spokeshave, I use still be visible. Just leave the 80 grit sandpaper wrapped line when you bandsaw off around a 1/4˝ thick piece of the taper. cork to smooth everything Next flip the leg on its together. My final sand is side and trace the curve of 220 grit. Now you have a the back of the leg onto the sculptured leg. leg and bandsaw it out. Just remember to enjoy Now for the hand work. the process. Jig for routing the inside of the leg To hold the leg for the hand work, I use a bar clamp and a hand screw clamp. The bar clamp holds the leg and the hand screw clamp holds the bar clamp. I then clamp the hand screw to the bench. I like to start with the inside of the leg. First, I grind a scraper to 41/2˝ radius – just a little smaller than I roughed the leg to. I do this because when you tip the scraper to cut, it matches the finished radius. The secret to shaping the inside of the leg is to stay focused and keep your The routed inside of the leg awareness on the outside of the leg because this is your guide. To do the back of the leg, I use a spokeshave. The key to this is remembering that the leg is tapered and there is more stock to remove from the bottom than the top. Keep looking at the bottom of the leg where you traced the template. This will keep your mind focused on the The finished leg

Clamping jig for shaping the leg Legs roughed out & ready for shaping by hand by Will Neptune

ost of the MA, who explained that Mwoodworking a higher wattage laser can I do isn’t very different travel faster, reducing the than what has been done depth of burning. He also in shops since the late 19th provided the service of Century. The machines most checking the CAD drawing people use, and working by file and adapting it to run combining hand and power the machine. The cost is tools, would be recognized based on cut time without by earlier generations of a set up charge, so it can be woodworkers. But it is cost effective with very small also true that technology orders. continues to change. I’ve One of the main seen how CNC routing has advantages of this method is changed kitchen cabinet that no clamping or fixture shops. setup is needed. This was a A recent job prompted me many inside corners. I did leaf tips and the inside major advantage given the to investigate laser cutting. I one half of a back as a test, to corners would need to be design of the chair back I was had heard of marquetry being see how long it would take to filed sharp by hand. making. The cutting table can cut by laser, but I didn’t realize jig saw and then file the edges. This led me to laser handle a 4´ x 4´ and the parts that much thicker parts can It was clear that a set of ten cutting. The trade off was the are simply laid on the table also be cut. The chair backs required a different answer. I burning of the edges but with using registration marks. The for this job, designed by the looked into subcontracting all the corners cut to finished splats are laminated with 3/32˝ Architect Ivan Bereznicki, to a CNC routing shop, but shape. I found Vadim Daskal mahogany on a 1/2˝ baltic are intricately pierced with there was a risk of chipping at Boston Lasers in Woburn birch core. I also ran a test on 5/8˝ solid mahogany thinking this method might be helpful for other jobs as well. Initially, I was worried about the issue of burning, but I was able to sand past the darkened edge pretty quickly. I measured the width of sections before and after sanding, and it removed from 0.015˝ to 0.025˝. My friends seem to think it’s funny that I have gone “high tech”, but I’m always looking for new tricks. Laser cutting may not be the answer in every situation, but for a job with intricate piercings, it’s worth a look. The edges may need sanding, but the shapes are perfect, and it sure beats threading a jig saw blade through all those holes. photos by Will Neptune by photos by Jon Siegel Re-Thinking Scrapers

new ways to use the scraper and a new way to sharpen it

everal decades ago, takes about one second, and Swhen I became with turning the machine frustrated at how quickly my on and off, the total time is scraper dulled, I abandoned about four seconds. I use the the traditional method of blade exactly as it comes off sharpening for a quicker the belt! The four-second way. I discovered that a belt method obviously eliminates sander could sharpen my sharpening procrastination, scraper blade in four seconds so you never let the scraper instead of four minutes. get dull in the first place, you are investing almost nothing Figure 1 – A belt sander with 150 or 180 grit sharpens a scraper in 4 sec. The Four Second in the re-sharpening effort, Sharpening Method and sharpening becomes The conventional method more of a continuous process of sharpening scrapers as it should be. involves several steps, and If you want to be initiated with practice most people into the four-second method, can do it in a few minutes. you have to let go of some of For beginners it takes much the old scraper myth. This longer. This gives rise to might be difficult since they sharpening procrastination have been part of the scraper which is never a good thing conventional wisdom for a with scrapers. long time. The goal is to produce a burr which is: Scraper Myth #1: The first and biggest myth is 1. Extremely sharp that a scraper needs a burr. 2. Just the right size (which includes possibly zero) For centuries carvers and Figure 2 –Broken glass has no burr but scrapes wood extremely well. 3. Even and smooth cabinetmakers used broken 4. Reproducible quickly (four glass to scrape.Obviously, seconds seems good) glass can’t have a burr, because it has no malleability. I use a 150 or 180 grit That is, if you rub a burnisher sanding belt. I hold the on glass, it does nothing. On blade in line with the belt a metal blade, the “turning” (scratches are parallel with of a burr involves bending blade), and create a square (literally cold forming) the edge. Thus both sides receive metal; and this requires the same grind with the same malleability of the metal. burr, so I can use both edges So what does a scraper before needing to sharpen need if not a burr? It needs again. I swipe the blade fairly blunt angle of grind twice over the belt, turning (60 to 100 degrees) with an it end-for-end. Each swipe edge that is extremely sharp. Figure 3 –Scraper holders are good for big jobs. 15

photos & drawings by Jon Siegel, David Siegel A scraper does not separate process produces a burr on wood by wedging under it its own. The idea of removing Re-Thinking Scrapers like a plane. It penetrates by that burr, only to reinstate it pressure only. That means with a burnisher is circular that if the edge is sharp logic and a big waste of time. enough, the pressure at the Beginners inevitably point of contact will be great go wrong with burnishers enough to cut a layer of wood because they operate on the even if the edge is presented principle, “If a little’s good, at a negative rake angle, as then a lot’s better.” This all scrapers are. Because it thinking is deadly when works by pressure, the edge putting a burr on a scraper. is subjected to extreme wear, – Drawing 1 (next page). and a scraper does not stay sharp very long even under Scraper Myth #2: the best conditions. This is A card scraper should be flexed during use to create a why the four-second method Figure 4 – Very useful push method. is such a great advantage slightly convex cutting edge. by allowing sharpening to occur in a totally integrated Corollary to Myth #2: continuous way. Scraping has to be torture on Having said all that, it your thumbs. If your thumbs is clear that sometimes a have ever felt tortured from scraper can benefit from a trying to flex the scraper burr, as long as that burr is blade for a prolonged extremely sharp, extremely period, then you must have smooth, and has a controlled wondered if there is a better size and shape. The benefit way. Yes, there is a very easy of a burr is that it allows the solution: simply grind the blade to be presented at a edge to the curve you need different angle than it would (like you do with a plane be if it had no burr, and this iron), and then you don’t can be advantageous. For need to flex the scraper. But example, if you are using the the issue of how to hold the scraper in a holder such as a scraper blade is much bigger Stanley #80, then you have than this. Read on. Figure 5 – Holding the scraper in the palm of your hand. no control over the angle of presentation, but you can Scraper Myth #3: control the aggressiveness A scraper blade must be pre- by using more or less burr. I sented to the work at a nega- use these holders for rough tive rake angle. scraping to remove machine marks, but for the finishing If you are used to thinking strokes I hold the blade in of the burr on a scraper as a my hand. little curl of metal in the I no longer burnish scraper shape of a hook, then you may blades (or woodturning be locked into thinking that scrapers). Burnishing a the only way to work it is to scraper with hard steel drag the blade at a negative produces unpredictable rake angle – Drawing 2. But results, because the a scraper with a tiny burr malleability of the metal is that points straight down extremely variable from one will work in either direction. blade to the next. Also, the The advantages of the grinding, filing, or whatever push option are huge. For is used in the sharpening one thing, it allows you to Figure 6 – Pressure applied easily with the heel of the hand. Edge Face Edge Face Edge Face

Wood Surface Wood Surface Wood Surface

Drawing 1 Drawing 2 Drawing 3 Scraper burnished too much will not cut. Scraper sharpened and burnished the Scraper after grinding (no burnishing) has a conventional way is very aggressive. small burr which cuts in either direction.

Figures 7 & 8 –Light finishing cuts with a reciprocating motion. push and pull the scraper The problem with this the one handed grip allows or the short side of the blade. in a reciprocating motion method is that it requires you to hold the work with This method goes back to (the same way you use you to hold the scraper with one hand, and scrape with the two handed fingertip sandpaper), and this action two hands on the tips of your the other. The one handed grip, and is meant for light removes the fuzziness from fingers in an ergonomically grip is reversible: pull toward touch finishing. The great the wood better than going unsatisfactory way. If you you using your finger tips for advantage of the flip-flop in one direction only. Second, turn the scraper 90 degrees increased pressure, or push stroke is that the fibers of it allows you to lay the blade and sharpen the short side, away using the heel of your the wood are bent back and nearly flat on the work for a then the blade fits into the hand for a more aggressive forth which breaks them off more accurate planing action palm of your hand! You can cut. cleanly, and gives a fine finish for jobs such as removing a still use the other hand as free from fuzz. spot of glue – Drawing 3. an assist, by placing it over Finally, I’d like to describe your right hand. It is also a method which is great for Scraper Myth #4: important to grind the top to getting the final finish on the Sharpen a rectangular a rounded shape and pad the wood. It’s called the flip-flop. scraper on the long side of top edge with tape to make it You can use this whether you the blade. comfortable. For quick jobs, have sharpened the long side shop shavings by Garrett Hack Scrapers Another Approach surface. I see any time saved I have many sizes of sharpening is balanced by scrapers for these jobs, some the extra time sanding. very small, some with square My sharpening method corners such as for working is not that tedious. A couple in a rabbet, some slightly of things are important. A curved or angled. I cut out light burr will cut just as new shapes when I need to effectively as a heavier one with tin snips, sometimes and can be laid down and from old hand saws. reformed a number of times Where I have really with a burnisher (in seconds). come to rely on scrapers is And you need to prepare the for shaping. My favorites edge by filing and honing are scratch stocks, small photos by Garrett Hack by photos to a polished and very profiled scrapers held in sharp square edge first. A a wooden stock or fence, hat piqued my as it is, creates a fresh edge smoothly polished burnisher ideal for cutting delicate Winterest about that cuts well, but not with is also important and a light moldings and very precise Jon’s scraper sharpening the polish I aim for. I tried touch with it, to essentially grooves for inlays. Recently technique was that it takes different grits of sandpaper, roll on the burr smoothly I was shaping a cove on the him four seconds – a few diamond stones, and a very and evenly. I’ve written about underside of a curved table swipes against a spinning fine jeweler’s file, all with this in past Shop Shavings. edge in very dense and hard sanding belt and he’s done. quick results. The sharpening While I prefer to plane to work ebony. None of Knowing his understanding process creates a serrated when I can, scrapers are my planes or spokeshaves of hand tools, metalworking, burr, one that left dozens invaluable for shaping and could handle the changing and cutting geometry, I of tiny streaks across the for reaching into tight spots grain orientation. A scraper expected that whatever surface. And it’s probably a such as to scrape out a tiny I filed to fit the cove could, he was doing worked. So little ragged too, since some bead of glue. A scraper can and although it cut slowly, why was I spending closer areas of the edge cut more take light even cuts without the finished shape was very to four minutes with my aggressively. The edges didn’t the risk of gouging the surface consistent. A bit of Jon’s “Re- more traditional honing last any longer than the ones as a chisel gone astray might. Thinking” to the edge kept and burnishing on a burr I create. I’m just careful to round any it cutting well. Only for the method? I had one more clue to corners of the scraper I don’t final passes where I wanted The difference is in the the quality of the cut from want to cut into and mar the super smooth did I take the finished edge. Which really the two different sharpening surface unintentionally. And time to hone the edge and comes down to the question techniques – by wetting the a scraper will cut smoothly burnish on a fine burr. of what you are trying to do surface to see how much working across or against the with your scraper. I want to the grain raised. Off a sharp grain if I have to. cut finished surfaces as close plane the grain doesn’t raise to the polish and glisten of at all. My scrapers when that of a sharp plane. I don’t they start to dull pull up like to sand if I can help it. some fibers, which swell My scraper edges do this when wet and can be felt as a for me, but the nature of slightly rough surface. With these edges being somewhat Jon’s scraper, there was even fragile, they never last long more grain raising going enough. That’s fine, because on; I could even feel some on flat work I don’t rely on of the streaks. But it can get a scraper for more than the job done, leveling areas smoothing small areas of of tear out or challenging tearout anyway. grain, followed by wetting Jon’s method, as quick and sanding for a beautiful bent lamination technique Making a Curved Bead

by Bob LaCivita

I have developed a simple After you have cut through, system for making the mold and take it to the table saw and rip the bending the piece from the waste inch off. Keep the arch waste. This stock of the curved door rail. will be your mold or form. (See Photos 2 & 3) Step 1 – Lay out the curve on the rail. Be sure to mark your center Step 3 – Take the waste arch and lines. In this case it is an arch that cut a concentric circle about 2˝ is 180 degrees of a circle. Make smaller then the one that was sure the rail is wider by at least an routed using a bandsaw or jigsaw. inch. (See Photo 1) Attach it to plywood or any other inexpensive material. I generally Step 2 – Set up a plunge router use scrap plywood. Then add a 4˝+ with a bit that is the thickness of straight piece to either side of the your bead plus the cauls. I used arch creating a semi-circle with a 5/8˝ straight bit. You can use a two long legs. When the piece larger bit and adjust the cauls is bent, the straight section will accordingly. This gives me 3/8˝ for give you a 90 degree reference to the bead and 1/4˝ for the cauls. cut the miters with a miter box or Attach the router to your circle tablesaw. Wax the mold and cauls making jig and set up the jig on with paste wax and let it dry. (See the rail stock. The pivot point of Photo 4) the jig should be in the center mark intersection and the edge Step 4 – Select your lumber and of the router bit is just touching saw it fairly close to thickness and the arch line. Make several passes about 1/4˝ wider than the depth of to rout out your arch. Do not your bead. In this case I am using cut through the edge of the rail four laminates at a thickness of (remember that extra inch). If you 0.093˝ or 3/32˝ x 1˝. I saw the stock rout through the rail edge, the about 1/16˝ thicker and plane it wood will move on your final pass down to 3/32˝. A thickness sander and a few choose words might is a great way to make laminate come out of your mouth. strips if you have one.

A

ver the years I have built many cabinets that Ohave a cock bead molding either around the inside of the stiles and rails or applied to the door, or drawer edges. A number of these have had curved rails. I have made them either from solid stock or laminated pieces. When using solid stock, you always end up with short grain which may break over time. When making a 180 degree arch, it most likely will break. In most cases, I laminate the curve reducing the chances of failure to a very low percentage. 19

photos by Bob LaCivita 1 4

2 5

3 6

I make 1/8˝ thick cauls in this case. The bend is small I let it dry overnight before I make my final piece. at this point. Apply glue to and the open time is minimal just to be safe. A note on I do not have a formula for the proper surfaces and start meaning the glue will not lamination. The tighter sizing stock to a curve. It clamping from the center set before I finish clamping. the radius of the curve the is experience and art. (See working your way down You can use any glue you feel thinner your laminate stock Photos 5 & 6 and Figure A) either side until it is void of comfortable with. Hide glues has to be. I usually make a A few facts. More open joints. I used PVA glue will not work. test with the same species laminates decrease spring 20

7 B

C 8

back. Bending 180 degrees Step 6 – Set up a straight above the table. Using a V set up a 5/32˝ quarter round plus sometimes causes router bit in a router table fence rout a rabbit 1/16˝ deep bit and round over the inside spring in. Figured wood and have it protrude 3/16˝ in the outside curve. Then edge (Whiteside makes this with short grain may router bit). I finish break even in very the outside edge thin dimension. Do with a block plane not force laminates and sandpaper. (See because they are too Photos 8 & 9 and thick. Figures B & C)

Step 5 – Remove your Step 7 – Using the stock from the mold. straight sections as Scrap off the excess a reference, I cut my glue and plane or miters and fit the joint one edge, make bead to the case. sure it is square to the face. I saw the This is a nice remaining edge off simple detail I think with a tablesaw to the you will find easy to desired thickness 23/32˝. make. With a little Check and make sure fore thought and it fits in the arch. Now creativity, you can you are ready to start adapt this method to the bead shape. suit your needs. by Dave Frechette through wedged mortise and tenon joint Birds Mouth Joint

it. This means that we will wedges you will have for switch between the joints as each tenon (one or two). Let we go along. us assume two. The extra added to each side of the Design mortise will be the width of The first step is to make the wedge on the outer end a measured drawing of the and should be about twice entire project or, at the least, the thickness of the saw of the joinery. There are blade used to cut the kerf a few design decisions to in the end of the tenon. So make. The first is what size if you have a saw blade that table you wish to make and is 1/32˝ thick, the extra width the materials you wish to of one side of the mortise use. The second is the size would be 1/16˝ and the wedge and spacing of the tenons. I would taper from 1/16˝ to used 1/2˝ stock and made the 1/32˝. You also must account tenons square. The tenons for the grain of the mortise may be flush or left proud because you want to wedge which should affect the against the end grain of the length of the sides and the mortise, not the side grain. he mortise and tenon joint has a history as long as joinery. shelf. This is purely a matter Otherwise you might split TIt is a substantial joint. The birds mouth joint also has a of taste. The birds mouths the mortise board. long history. It is seen frequently in Asian joinery, both modern can be on the front of the Next you must design and antique. table or front and back. your birds mouth. I use a 45° While the birds mouth is primarily a decorative joint, it When doing the drawing angle from each side of the does add strength when compared with the butt joint that it remember that the tenons shelf but any angle would be replaces. That strength derives from an increase glue surface will be wedged so you need acceptable. It is a matter of between two side grained pieces as opposed to an end grain to to allow room for the wood taste. Using a 45° angle, the side grain joint. to expand. The two edges birds mouth on a 1/2˝ piece of To illustrate the joints, we will consider the joining of a of the mortise will have to stock will be 1/4˝ deep. There shelf to the sides of a four board table (the boards consisting of be beveled with the wider is no reason that you could two legs, a top and a shelf ). The top is attached with a wedged opening on the outside of not get fancy in your design through mortise and tenon. the board. as long as the male end will Our concern is the attachment of the shelf to the legs. This You can calculate the slide straight into the female could be done with a butt joint, a dado, a sliding dovetail or a width of the outside hole end in the same fashion the mortise and tenon joint to name but a few possible methods. by first deciding how may tenons go into the mortises. All have advantages and Grain Grain disadvantages. In this case, we will use the through mortise Wedged Mortise & Tenon and tenon with wedges for it’s mechanical strength and the birds Grain Grain mouth for it’s decorative enhancement of the joint. We will proceed Birdsmouth through the project in stepwise fashion as one would actually do Marking mortises 22

Transfer Design Tenons Once the design is done, the Now mark both shelf ends and joinery is transferred to your the top of the side board ends for flattened and squared boards. On the tenons and the birds beaks. Lay each side and the top, lay out the them against the corresponding location of the mortises and the mortises and make sure up is birds mouths. When laying out up and everything lines up true. the mortises, you must lay them Remove the waste. There are at out on both sides of the board. This least three ways to do this. I used will allow you to begin cuts from them all and found manual to be both sides and reduce chipping. satisfying but routing gives the Make sure you know which side best result in the shortest time. is inside and which side is outside because the mortise openings are Manually – Rip saw down the different sizes. The birds mouth sides of the tenons and the birds Completed mortises must be on the inside. I usually beak. make the birds mouth opening Crosscut the end of the boards about a 1/2˝ long. without birds beak to the tenons. Remove most of the waste Mortises & Birds Mouths between tenons with the drill Finally, you can cut out the press or a coping saw. mortises and the birds mouths. Finish the joint with your The traditional way to do the chisels. Or, chop all the waste out cutting is to chop everything out with chisels and forget the saws with a chisel and this will work and drills. well. Remember to start from Tablesaw – Using a dado blade each side. or a blade that leaves a flat base in Alternatively most of the the groove, set the height of the waste can be removed with the blade to the depth of the tenon. drill press. To do this, mark the Using a backer board and a Birds mouth center of each mortise on each support adequate for the length of side. Since I have little courage the sides, cut away the waste using in the side board mortise. They should extend nearly and a great capacity for error, I a cross cut sled or sliding table. to the bottom of the tenon. Some people drill a small then take a very small bit and drill Router table – Using a bit with a hole at the bottom of the cut to prevent splitting. all the way through from one side flat top, set the height of the blade Since I have not split a board yet, I do not do this. in the center of each mortise. This to the depth of the tenon. serves to confirm that I have put Using a backer board and a Wedges my markings in the correct place support adequate for the length of Cut the wedges. You may have considered using a on both sides and gives me a place the sides, cut away the waste. contrasting wood to highlight the wedges. Plane the to start the larger bit. wedge board to the width of the tenon. The wedge Once my confidence is restored, Create the birds beak by sawing grain should go with the length of the wood so you take a brad point or forstner bit just away the waste. Cut a hair outside are hammering on end grain. Draw a line across the slightly smaller then the mortise the line to leave a little for final board at the depth of the wedge (a little longer then and drill all the mortises about fitting. Too big is a nuisance. Too the tenon). half way down. Flip the boards small is a real problem. Draw a line on an angle from the end of the board and repeat. The holes should line Test fit the boards and trim to the depth line to outline the first wedge. Move up. Now all you have to do is clean to get a good fit. Do the tenons over the width of a saw kerf and the width of the end up the remaining waste with your first. Once they are going in of the wedge and draw a vertical line to the depth line. nicely sharpened chisel. Again do smoothly, you can refine the birds Repeat across the board making sure you have extra not forget that you are making beak. There should be room on the wedges (some will deform and some will hide when beveled edges on two sides of the beveled side because you will close you are ready to use them). mortises so you will not be cutting this space with wedging. Using a hand or bandsaw, cut out the wedges. straight down as you are used to. Now cut kerfs in the tenons to This is great practice for cutting straight. The last cut Once the mortises are accept the wedges. These should should be across the depth line and should free the completed, chop out the birds be parallel with the top so the wedges from the board. Trim as needed with a chisel. mouths with a chisel. wedging is against the side grain 23

photos by Dave Frechette

Test fit Marking tenons

Routing tenons Cutting wedge kerfs in tenon ends

Cutting tenons on a tablesaw

Glue Up The next step is to glue up. Do your dry fit and Cutting wedges get all your clamps, etc. out. Do not drive the wedges in during the dry fit as you will never get them out. Move fast and glue all the boards in place. When clamped together, cover the wedges in glue and drive them home. Clean up the excess glue and let the whole thing dry. Saw off any wedge ends that protrude beyond the tenon ends. Smooth the ends of the tenons with a block plane. Admire your work. Glue up tool review by Peter Breu

Foot & Ear Relief

First and foremost, they are very good are thick enough to be very comfortable at reducing noise with 26 dB noise without being too soft. They stay put reduction. They are extremely light (2 since they are locked together (but come oz!) and very comfortable. They slip on apart easily). And this specific mat is and off easily, and rest on the neck almost quite light so you can pick them up and unnoticed (until my wife complains at move them around as you need. dinner about that silly orange necklace). Contact www.therubberman.com and The foam cuffs are replaceable, and ask about their “Tru-Light” flooring if lastly, they are not too expensive ($20. you are interested. They were about $25 at Woodcraft) I have used mine for a for a 3´ x 4´ mat at the show. Shipped year now and don’t start anything in the to your door will be more due to their shop until they are on. weight. If you can wait until November Now, for those of you, who like me, and the next horse show, I’ll pick some work on a concrete floor all day, here up for you! Peter Breu 603- 647-2327. is a product I got out of the horse barn. You have all seen rubber floor mats in various shapes, sizes and prices. Last

photos by Peter Breu Peter by photos year at a horse show I bought a set of mats that are substantially better. They can’t live without these! The older I are solid black rubber with interlocking Iget, the more I worry about losing edges. I put them around my bench and my hearing with all the noise from the couldn’t be happier. I had previously machines in a small basement shop. I used mats with holes, but they were must have tried at least six different more expensive and the holes filled with kinds of hearing protection, but shavings and were hard to clean. A the new ZEM headset is really a big broom or shop vac makes quick work of step above the rest for several reasons. cleanup with the horse stall mats. They

Rounding an Edge – continued little step at the edge and at the surface vibration and have more cutting power and fine tune it. I usually set the depth a as shown in the picture is done with a when driven by a heavier router. tiny bit shallower than flush so you don’t beading bit. I strongly recommend carbide bits. have a ridge that has to be sanded out. Typically, you can achieve the result They last many times longer and their You will never notice the round over with one bit by changing the diameter extra price is well justified by their being slightly less than perfectly aligned of the bearing which is available in kits extended life. if you do this. of several sizes. A roundover bit comes in different radius cuts, from 1/8˝ to Adjusting the Bit – With the bit firmly Making the Cut – Tear out is a significant larger than 1/2˝. clamped into the router collet, the issue when cutting across the end grain. When adjusted properly, the bit will depth of cut needs to be adjusted. With I cut the side grain first and then the cut a rounded edge on the board, both the correct bearing on the bit, it will be end grain. The side cut gives some relief on the end grain and on the straight properly set for a flush cut on the depth to the end grain cut where the router grain sides. A roundover bit will be of the edge. To set the bit for a flush cut terminates. However you can still get available with a 1/4˝ or 1/2˝ shank. on the surface of the board, you adjust tearout so as you approach the end of If you already have a router, you the depth of the router. Lay the router the first side cut. Continue around the would buy the shank size to match on the board and adjust the height so corner into the end grain at least a the router. It’s the fashion today to use the bit is as close to flush as you can. little bit. If you stop the side cut and 1/2˝ bits. They are sturdier, produce less Make a test cut on a scrap of wood then restart the end cut, there is a good chance of splintering. Rust Removal, Part One by Peter James Snake Oil

I purchased a gallon and Or you can order direct from Evaporust at: brought it home to try. The www.evaporust.com. product works by the method I will end by saying that I have no affiliation with of chelation. Chelation in this anyone involved in manufacturing or selling the case, for those of us who are not product described above. I was really skeptical about chemists, is some sort of magic it until an atomic physicist friend in Tennessee said that pulls the rust from the iron that he uses it and recommends it. or steel, but leaves the solid metal In my next article, I will lay out directions for and does not damage the paint. It electrolysis using a common battery charger and does not appear to remove plating. washing soda available at the grocery store. This product eliminates the use of some of the harsher chemicals and acid solutions. I have tried it on several items and it does work. photos by Peter James Peter by photos Take a look at the before and after photos. ften times when wandering I took the plane apart and Oaround flea markets and soaked it for about two hours in used tool sales, we see a really nice the solution and as you can see, hand plane or chisel, only it is the results are amazing. I did not caked in rust. I have picked these do any scrubbing other than to use up and sometimes purchased them an acid brush to work some dirt because the price was right, but out of the corners. After removing then wonder how to clean this up from the bath, clean with alcohol without removing all the original to remove the remaining solution. paint or japanning. A good coat of wax will prevent Last summer while attending rust from forming again. a tractor show, I came across a The product is available locally vendor selling a product called from: “Evaporust”. Now, normally I would have written this off as just Eventors another snake oil salesman, except PO Box 83 that I have purchased various 195 Silver St. products from this gentleman over Dover, NH 03821 a period of about twenty years and they have always lived up to his 603-742-2262 hype. email: [email protected] Before & After

Ask This Old Saw! – continued Sunapee – continued that cannot be achieved with any I’ve learned over the last few Please contact me top coat. months that the majority of work at 603-332-1039 or To enhance the figure, use a involved in running the Guild [email protected]. light coat of dye and rub back, comes from less than 10% of its Or, you can contact John followed by a top coat. For ease total membership – which is now Whiteside at 603-679-5443 of application, durability and over 500 members. or [email protected] repairability, lacquer is hard to beat. This is the one time when you if you can help out this year. Conversion varnish is extremely can do something to give back to – Wendy Mullett durable but is not very forgiving the Guild by volunteering for a for repairs or touch-ups. day (or more) at the Sunapee Fair. meetings and events 26

April 14th, 2007 by Wayne Cardoza

Goosebay Sawmill & Lumber Tour photos by Tony Immorlica

thousand board feet of mostly expensive log isn’t really suitable for veneer but still oak lumber per day to its current can make beautiful lumber. incarnation as a specialty mill In case you dream of stumbling over beautiful sawing much smaller amounts of lumber while buying cord wood, Carl showed us high value wood. The production how to spot birds-eye figure from the outside of circular mill equipment was the log. It is usually necessary to have some bark recently sold and has been replaced removed, but the figure is amazingly clear. It by a modern bandsaw mill capable looks as though the log has been lightly pecked by of sawing boards up to 28 inches woodpeckers. The odds are probably a thousand to wide. He currently concentrates one, but you could get lucky. No one knows exactly on birds-eye and curly maple along what stress or other condition causes the birds-eye with slabs for table tops and other figure to occur. specialized products. His mill Carl’s property includes a log yard used by other handles longer logs than most high brokers. This gave us the opportunity to see many volume operations, thus making species and grades of logs. It gives him the option him popular with boat builders of picking and choosing his logs, especially the large who need keels and other long ones that can otherwise be difficult to acquire, and timbers. Carl also has a vacuum makes a small operation much more feasible. kiln which can dry his work much Carl gave us many insights into the businesses arl Mahlstedt has run more quickly than a traditional of logging and of running a sawmill. If you think it CGoosebay Sawmill & oven while treating the wood might be a welcome change from an office job, first Lumber for 30 years. If you more gently. The kiln contains examine the pile of paperwork necessary to import haven’t been there, it is an excellent aluminum plates between the lumber from South America and then export it to source for domestic and exotic layers of lumber. Steam circulates Canada. At the end of a fascinating two hours, we hardwoods, especially birds-eye through the plates to heat the had a much better appreciation for everything that and curly maple. If you need a 25 wood while a vacuum pump draws goes into getting lumber from the forest to the foot mahogany board or maybe a out the moisture. On the day we workshop. photo by Wayne Cardoza 4 inch slab of mahogany about 3 visited, it contained walnut slabs by 6 feet, this is the place to get it. along with some maple. Turning stock is another specialty. Carl and his assistant gave He also had a huge pile of spalted us a lesson in lumber grading maple when we visited. – both plywood and hardwoods. Carl gave us the history of his While you may be familiar with mill, starting from when it was a grades as a retail customer, you production mill doing 15 to 20 probably haven’t heard about them from the perspective of a sawmill operator who must start by grading logs and gambling on the lumber grades that result. Carl showed us logs and told us stories of both good and bad gambles. These included logs bought as high value that turned out to be worth far less. On the other side, he showed us the initial cutoffs from the most highly figured wood he had ever seen. That log was quickly resold for a very high price. Carl also benefits from other’s mistakes since much of his birds-eye maple logs are “rejects” bought from veneer mills who find an meetings and events www.acworthian.org/Acworth_Carving_Club.html 27 by Gretchen Abendschein Acworth Carving Club The Acworth Carving Club meets every Monday night in the stone studio Grant built next to his house on Tucker Road in South Acworth. The Carving Club is affiliated with the Guild of New Hampshire Woodworkers, of which Grant is a founding member. Grant instructs members of the carving club in a wide array of individualized woodcarving projects from signs, plaques and clocks, to more complicated endeavors such as a trunk with carved panels that Matt Robinson is making, and a dulcimer that Daniel Sanville has spent numerous hours carefully carving and constructing. Make sure to keep an eye out for Seth’s original sign carved in the shape of a hand that points the way to the ball field in South Acworth. On behalf of the Rec Committee, n the first Monday in March, Seth Knight Mary Lord Opresented a hand carved “Ball Field” sign thanked Seth to Mary Lord, Chair of the Acworth Recreation for his fabulous Committee. sign that she Earlier last winter the Acworth Rec Committee described as had asked local woodcarver, Grant Taylor, if he knew “pure Acworth”. of anyone who might be interested in making a sign Mary said, to direct out-of-towners to the ball field in South “When you see Acworth. Grant posed the question to the Acworth a sign like this, Carving Club and Seth volunteered his services so he you know you’re could get more practice carving signs. not in Walpole anymore!” meetings and events 28

March 24th, 2007 by Jim Forbes Granite State Woodturners meeting at Peter Block’s shop in New London, NH photos by Jim Seroskie

recommended using an oxyacetylene torch. The technique Jon demonstrated uses high carbon steel formulated for water quenching and designated as “W-1” or drill rod (also known as AISI 1095). He brought stock to the meeting so we all could leave the demonstration with material known as Martensite, rather than slow to practice on. Later Dave would cooling it and allowing the reformation demonstrate his technique using oil of softer crystal forms of the steel. Jon quenched high carbon steel designated showed that by cooling the rod from “O-1”. Both steels are readily available red hot to room temperature in about and low cost. Also these two alloys have two or three seconds in a tin of water, well known and predictable properties to the resultant rod would be too hard to he March meeting of the Granite lend themselves to this simple process. cut with a file. Jon then took us through TState Woodturners was once again Jon’s skill as a teacher shown brilliantly the tempering procedure for those held in the spacious workshop of Peter as he succinctly took the class on a occasions that the tool is too brittle and Bloch in New London; although with (history-physics-economics-astronomy- needs to be softened slightly to relieve the big draw that these meetings have cultural evolution and metallurgy) some of this brittleness. Time limitation been getting of late, there was standing lesson of iron and steel from the Big prevented much discussion of handle room only. Bang, bronze and iron ages, through Continued on Page 32 The meeting began with a moment the Darby and Bessemer processes even of silence to recognize the loss of long including an explanation of why there time GNHW member and fellow are no native woodturners on the moon woodturner Roland Hok. (“just a theory”). His models of crystals The presentation “Making made from Styrofoam balls were helpful Woodturning Chisels” was in two parts – in understanding the structural change the first by GSWT President Jon Siegel that iron undergoes when heated and and the second by Guild President Dave the absorption of carbon into the iron Anderson. crystal. Jon started the presentation by Jon demonstrated that by heating restating the subject – how you can make the end of the rod to cherry red (about woodturning chisels with materials and 1450°F) the alloy would change its equipment you probably have in your crystal structure from body centered own shop now. The practical maximum cubic to face centered cubic and become size of the chisel is limited only by the non magnetic. Thus Jon recommended heat source available to you. A single using a magnet as a temperature propane torch (blue bottle) will work up indicator until you get used to “reading to about 5/16˝ diameter. Two torches will the colors”. Jon drew an IT (isothermal cut the heating time in half. And MAPP transformation) curve to show the need gas (yellow bottle) in half again. To make to very quickly drop the temperature to chisels in 1/2˝ diameter or larger, Jon trap the carbon in the crystal structure meetings and events 29

April 7th, 2007 by Michael Gregowske

Beginner & Intermediate Group photos by Jim Seroskie meeting at Bob LaCivita’s shop in Nottingham, NH

how the angle of the gain was running, then imagined what would happen to a dog hair when we petted it based how we would plane the board. Would it stick up (wrong direction) or lay down (correct direction.) Bob hand drew the arch on each of the end grains using a pencil and down the length using a wooden marking guage. We used these lines to cut the curves. We started with a wooden bodied plane and learned how to adjust it using a hammer to tap on the knocker (a metal rivet at the front of the plane body). Bob likes this plane because it is light in weight and removes lots of waste. No fine adjustment are available! en of us gathered in Bob LaCivita’s The metal bodied plane has the fine Tshop to continue work on the adjustment to “Just” reach the lines. To cabinet. be successful, you need to check your The cabinet already had one-piece marks at both ends and the side – often. paper! Here is a use for it! Sanding the sliding dovetails and sockets. The sides We tended to put much more pressure filled area fills the paper. (stiles) are held to the top and bottom on the plane at the far end of the stroke! We used a router to create the rabbet (rails) with the sliding dovetails. The To correct, we had to take shorter that will accept the back of the cabinet. sockets (on rails) start out about 1/32˝ strokes at the starting or end closest to We used a rabbeting bit with a bottom wider at the back to allow dry fitting us. Bob showed how to use a finger on bearing. Bob’s set came with different and removal. the side of the plane as a fence to keep size bearing so we could have adjusted This sessions design goal was to our strokes uniform and consistent. the width of the cut by changing it. soften the look of the cabinet by cutting We leaned to be very gentle around We were careful to route the insides of curves on the both of out side surfaces knots and unusual grain changes to the rails and stiles! We used a chisel to of the stiles (on the width and depth) avoid chipping and tear out. We were square the ends of router cuts. To find and on the rail fronts and sides. able to remove all the band saw marks out what to remove, we dry fitted the We did the stiles with jointer (jack) and come close to a “finished surface” cabinet and marked the corners were planes. First Bob showed us how to (still needs some sanding). We used sand the router entered/exited. It left a round find the direction of the gain by petting paper on the surface to create a visual section that needed to be removed to the dog. We looked at the board to see indication (it looked white) of where to create the square corner. apply a card scraper or plane With the cabinet assembled, we to clean up some rough could see were to put the three curves spots. on the rails (base and top). One curve To create a smooth is at the front and two others for each surface in and around the of the curved stiles. We plan to put a knots, we used “burn sticks” cove shape on the outside of the curves, or solid shellac to fill the so we measured and planned for this as voids. Bob had a small flat a part of making our marks. We found iron similar to an electric the center of the bottom rail – this is our soldering iron that heated maximum radius. Then we measured the shellac. Once in liquid out the width of our cove router bit at state it was applied to the the center of each stile to get the end voids. Save your old sand Continued on Page 33 meetings and events 30

April 21st, 2007 by Caleb Dietrich photos by Jim Seroskie Guild Meeting Jim Robinson’s shop in Nottingham, NH

served as a teacher at the institute, and focused his business on repairing and producing world class, award winning, stringed ith the barn doors opened wide, instruments. Wand the warm morning sun Like his business, the Renaissance instrument is quartersawn Canadian hinting the rainy season had passed, Strings workshop has been set up for spruce, used for its acoustic qualities. Guild members gathered for the March the specific work Jim does. The meeting Hand split spruce is also used in the meeting in Jim Robinson’s recently was held on the ground floor, in the rib assembly, and ebony or rosewood completed workshop. The weather machine room, which is spacious given is used for the fingerboard and other seemed to set the mood as members the moderate machines the craft requires. components. socialized, exchanging stories of recent On the lower level Jim also partitioned Jim’s process begins with detailed projects. a space to serve as his showroom. drawings. He then fabricates an After a few short discussions about The area upstairs would seem to be aluminum half-template used in the the business of the Guild and a break Jim’s haven. The bench room is where he construction of the rib assembly. The for lunch, Jim began his presentation does the detailed hand work. The space spruce belly and maple back are made with a little history of his woodworking also lends itself to the rigorous finishing of two thin, tapered and book-matched past. He went back through three process Jim uses. pieces. The glued panels are fitted to generations of woodworkers to talk With a majority of the members slightly overhang the rib assembly. They about his great grandfather who he slightly mystified, but very intrigued by are then worked extensively by hand, credited for introducing the craft into the luthier’s craft, Jim gave an overview thinned and formed until the individual the Robinson bloodline. of the process. He started by talking pieces are tuned, like a drum, to the Jim, himself, has been a woodworker about the materials he uses. Holding ideal note of F sharp. for over 25 years. He proved to be a up a quarter sawn wedge of European After covering the construction of quick study when he began to follow figured maple which couldn’t have Continued on Page 33 his passion for violinmaking in 1995. totaled more than two board feet, he In 1999 he took up formal training talked about the wood’s attributes, it’s under Karl Roy at the UNH Violin beauty (which was apparent to all in the Craftsmanship Institute. Since, he has room) and then told that the small piece cost upwards of $180. With the shock I think most of us experienced came an added appreciation of how much goes into his work at every level. Figured maple is used for the back panel, the skin on the contoured rib assembly and the beautifully carved neck. The belly or top panel of the meetings and events 31

May 12th, 2007 by John Whiteside Period Furniture meeting at Marty Milkovitz’s shop in Mason, NH

on the scale of the Guild Turning and Joinery symposia of recent years. At our meeting first we got to inspect Marty’s explosion proof finishing booth. Instead of drawing air out, Marty has a huge fan in the attic that blows air in through the large hole behind Dave Macrae in the photo. We also heard about and saw samples of Marty’s favorite finish for his commercial work, which is a with the first being a dye stain such as two-part conversion varnish. NGR or analine. More interesting, deep, He finished a large sample and three-dimensional effects can be board with conversion thus achieved than simply using a can of varnish and in different places, one of the popular pre-mixed hardware lacquer and shellac. Then he store stains. treated the different finishes Near the end, the discussion turned with common household to mordants, which are stains produced spills such as water, alcohol, by chemical reactions, such as ammonia. ammonia, and (maybe not One such technique involves mixing so common) lacquer thinner. iron filings with nitric acid. It turns out The conversion varnish that is an old and still popular technique certainly seems to hold up with gunstock makers. At this, Marty he PFG finished off the 2006-2007 well. pulled out a musket he had made during TGuild season in fine form with a Many members brought sample his previous career as a gunsmith, and meeting, attended by 20 members, at boards of their favorite finishes. It on which he treated the stock in exactly Marty Milkovitz’s shop in Mason, NH. appears that everyone has their own this way. Sal Morgani was very excited Our topic was stains and finishes and to opinion – perhaps next year’s Finishing as his next project is a musket. Marty did our delight, President Dave Anderson Symposium will resolve all the issues. mention that there is even less money announced that next year there will be Meanwhile, some say linseed oil in custom gunmaking than there is in a large all-Guild finishing symposium enhances figure while others say it is not furnituremaking! necessary. Some The 2007-2008 PFG season starts feel tung oil dries on Saturday, September 8. GSWT better than linseed President Jon Siegel has offered to give oil and some say a demonstration on turning period no. Some prefer furniture parts. He asks that we give him long varnishes some idea of what we would most like – some short. to learn. My vote is turning footpads on One area Queen Anne legs. Let me know what of agreement yours is! was that more To receive meeting locations and dramatic staining directions to PFG meetings, contact John results can be Whiteside at [email protected] had by overlaying or 603-679-5443. Meetings are held multiple coats of on the second Saturday of September, photos by John Whiteside by photos different stains, November, January, March, and May. U I L D E G OF 32 TH W IRE OO SH D P W O M R by John McAlevey

A K

H

E Joiner/Planer …

R

W

E S

N • • Robland 12” Joiner/ &OR3ALE Scholarship Planer in excellent Scholarship Report condition. Comes with HSS, carbide and uild scholarships were awarded has become a true master craftsman disposable knives. 220 v, 3 hp. This is a great Gin March to Ted Blachly, Ned specializing in making windsor chairs. machine! – $975. Gelinas and Lou Yelgin. The point of my history lesson is that Peter Breu: 603-647-2327 Ted’s scholarship will go towards with hard work and determination Going Out of Teaching Sale … his attending The Furniture Society Guild members can become excellent conference in Victoria British Columbia woodworking craftsmen. It would be an understatement for me to say that I have accumulated a lot of “stuff” at in June and Ned will be taking a I would like to appeal to all former and Pinkerton. What I needed for equipment wood turning class at The Homestead current scholarship recipients to donate and supplies in the shop grew over the Woodworking School. Lou Yelgin was a piece of their work to the Guild’s raffle past 18 years with the projects I offered to awarded a Bloch/Noyes Grant. He will at the Sunapee Fair. The raffle is an my students. It would not be fair for me to spend seven days working with David important component in raising money leave all of this for my replacement. So I have Sawyer at his shop in East Calais, VT for the Scholarship program. The planned a “going out of teaching” sale. making a windsor rocking chair. David scholarship committee would also like to Sawyer is known as one of the premier see scholarship recipients step forward The sale will include a lot of turning equipment, supplies and stock. windsor chair makers in the world and and volunteer their time working at the this is a terrific opportunity for Lou to guild booth either as a demonstrator or The sale will be 9:00 – 1:00 (no early birds) on work with one of the true masters of his as someone to meet and greet the public Saturday, 6/9. From 9:00 – 11:00 the sale is craft. and answer questions about the Guild open to all. From 11:00 – 1:00 it is open only A little bit of New Hampshire and woodworking in general. Guild to NEAWT teachers. The stuff that I don’t sell woodworking history – Dave Sawyer members will find this to be a very between 9:00 – 11:00 will be discounted or began his woodworking career in rewarding and educational experience. donated to schools. New Hampshire making wood rakes, The Guild Sunapee Fair Coordinator Jack Grube: [email protected] pitchforks, apple ladders, firewood totes is Wendy Mullett. Wendy’s phone and ladder back chairs from green wood number is 603-332-1039 and her email harvested from his land in Quaker City. is [email protected]. with Wendy and Jim and try to give In the late 1960’s and early 1970’s, he The Sunapee Raffle Coordinator something back to your wood guild. demonstrated and displayed his work is Jim Dimick and Jim’s phone As the current scholarship selection at the Mt. Sunapee Craftsmen’s Fair. number is 603-228-1131. His email is committee chair, I would like to ask Over time, as his skills developed, he [email protected]. Please get in touch members for their ideas on how the scholarship committee might better server the membership? If anyone has Finishing Symposium in 2008 any thoughts on how the program might better serve Guild members, ur April, 2008 meeting will be an all day symposium on the order of the please let me know either by email OJoinery Symposium two years ago. We are looking for input on topics or USPS mail. The next deadline for you would like to see presented, as well as presenters and possible vendors at a Scholarship applications is November trade show. Please contact me with your ideas – remember, this is your guild! 1. Applications are available from me at Peter Breu [email protected] or 603-647-2327. [email protected].

Woodturners – continued but then oil quenches in 120°F to 140°F and McMaster.com. Both sites have making or setting the blank into the oil (peanut or walnut) - maintaining detail time and temperature information handle, but we did review the shaping the oil temperature in a mini-crockpot. on heat treating, tempering and full and sharpening of the flute and bevels After hardening (in the 66 - 68 Rc annealing as well as a full range of sizes with recommended sources for grinding range) he draws back the brittleness by available in both “W-1” and “O-1”. wheels, including grit sizes, and arbors tempering at about 350°F to 400°F in We had a lengthy question and for lathe set-up. the electric kitchen oven for half to one answer period particularly on High Dave Anderson took over the hour depending on the cross section. Speed Steel and powdered metal, but discussion to explain his process for using This will bring the hardness back down were eventually drawn back to the “O-1” steel to make his marking knives to the 61 to 64 Rc range. Dave referred premise of the meeting – tools that you and awls. He buys fully annealed stock, us the temperature-hardness charts can make tonight in your own shop. heats it the same as Jon with propane available on line at MSCDirect.com 33

BIG – continued the curves using a plane. We took the step was to cut the rails close on the points of our arch. For the stile arches, cabinet apart – remember the tapered bandsaw (remember the curve we drew we used a grade school compass. We set sockets? They allow us to take it apart on them?) and clamp them to the jig. the width needed, then used the pivot without breaking anything. To mark Then clamp the set to the workbench point to follow the arch of the stiles. the curve on the front we need three leaving the edge to be cut in front and This was important to the uniform hands to hold an “Adjustable Spline” in off the bench. We used the router with look we want in the final product. place at the three points we had marked. a straight bit and a bottom bearing for Remember we hand created and cut The spline was made by Hoyle Product, the cut. The jig was on the bottom and Fillmore, CA (www.hoylegrips.com). the bearing rode on the jig to give an Now we need to make a jig! Scrap accurate and smooth curve. plywood was sized to be identical to There is more to come at the next the length and width of the rail. The meeting on June 2 from 9:30 am to three front curve marks were transfered about noon. Please email or phone Bob to the jig and the spline was used to if you plan to attend. mark the curve on the jig. The curve was cut on the bandsaw and smoothed using a block plane. Bob felt a belt sander would be difficult to handle and too easy to take off too much. The next

Guild Meeting – continued the instrument’s body, Jim went on to has developed methods to achieve the mineral oil and a rag to give a worn tell about inlaying the binder, setting “dark” sound he prefersthough every look. From there, he sets a pace of three the sound post and a number of other instrument will have a little of its own coats a day, polishing between each. He details. Jim emphasized that every step personality, its own distinct sound. continues for at least a week. At that of the process can affect the sound of With the instrument almost point they are well on their way to final the instrument. Through experience, he completely assembled, scraped, assembly and music making. and lightly sanded, Jim begins the The guild members who visited lengthy finishing process by giving Renaissance Strings were able to see the instrument a tan. If the weather Jim’s fine work up close. For those who cooperates, the instrument will spend were unable to attend and anyone still days out yellowing in the sunshine. If curious, pictures and more information not, it is tanned in a cabinet under are available at www.renstrings.com. artificial sunlight. If necessary, Jim will also use diluted yellow food coloring to further the process. At this point, Jim begins applying the many coats of varnish that give his instruments a rich, aged look. He uses very light coats, wiping the initial few with pumice, bulletin board 34

NH Furniture Masters Association offers students a unique opportunity to sculptural terms and opened my eyes There will be an interactive preview of expand and refine their furniture making to new possibilities. David, on the other the Masters’ 2007 auction pieces. This skills, beginning with foundational hand, has taken me much deeper into is an opportunity to see the Masters’ structural studies and continuing his style. As a result, I’ve increased my newest creations and meet the makers through personal design expression. understanding of his techniques and in person. Individuals in the program are provided processes. Working with each of them with a flexible program of study that has been a tremendously rewarding August 1-30, 2007 allows them to explore specific areas process. Since beginning my studies, I’ve New Hampshire Historical Society Library of interest through intensive one-on- gained a much greater appreciation for 30 Park St., Concord, NH 03301 one experiences with New Hampshire the complexities of the entire furniture www.nhhistory.org Furniture Masters, right in their studios. making process. Who knows what else Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30-5:00 p.m. As a result, students gain not only lies ahead?” Admission is free. valuable technical knowledge but also The New Hampshire Furniture firsthand experience with the day-to- Masters currently teaching in the There will be a silent auction and an day structure of a working studio. Studio-Based Learning Program are: opening reception. In addition to offering students a Jon Brooks, Tim Coleman, Jeffrey flexible curriculum and intimate access Cooper, Garrett Hack, David Lamb, Thursday, August 2, 2007 to established masters, the Studio- Marty Milkovits, Terry Moore, Jere Doors open, 5:30 p.m. (Please note: time Based Learning Program also offers Osgood, Brian Sargent, Jon Siegel, and subject to change; please call (603) 898- students the opportunity to develop Bill Thomas. 0242 or go to www.furnituremasters.org to an understanding of what it means to The New Hampshire Institute of confirm.) work at the highest level of mastery in Furniture Making was established to furniture making, refine their design promote the growth of fine furniture The Annual Auction will take place appreciation and experience, gain a making through public education and Sunday, October 21, 2007. greater understanding of materials, Studio-Based Learning Programs and construction principles and finishing to preserve and extend three centuries Wentworth-by-the-Sea Hotel techniques. of tradition in fine furniture making 588 Wentworth Rd., New Castle, NH 03854 “As in an apprenticeship, the student in New Hampshire. Additional www.wentworth.com has the advantage of using the master’s information on the Studio-Based studio as a classroom, working in a one- Learning Program may be obtained Auctioneer: Stephen H. Schofield, on-one learning environment,” notes by calling 603-229-5907 or by visiting NEW TIME!! Doors open at 3:30 p.m. for a Furniture Master Jon Brooks. “The the NH Furniture Masters Association “Meet the Masters” preview. Silent auction Studio-Based Learning Program offers website at www.furnituremasters.org. begins at 4:30 p.m. students a wide variety of stylistic choices while passing on time-honored Beginner & Intermediate Group Tickets to the event are $75 per person information in a personal and unique This year, Bob LaCivita is taking and entitle the holder to attend the setting that is unavailable in today’s BIG participants through an entire gala reception and auction and receive educational institutions.” project. The project is a small cabinet with a 2007, four-color commemorative “The Studio-Based Learning a drawer and two doors. auction catalogue. Program provides students with a The next BIG meeting isJune 2. The To purchase tickets or obtain rare opportunity to learn from a very meeting location is at Bob LaCivita’s additional information, visit talented group of furniture makers,” shop at 365 Stage Road (Rt 152) the Association’s website at notes current program participant Nottingham, NH from 9:30 am to noon. www.furnituremasters.org or telephone Andrea Young. “The masters work in Please email or telephone (before 9 pm) 603-898-0242. many different styles, so as a student, if you plan to attend. you have the opportunity to study with Bob LaCivita NH Institute of Furniture Making the makers whose creations speak most 603-942-1240 or [email protected] The New Hampshire Institute personally to you. When I started in of Furniture Making (NHIFM) is the program, I purposefully chose to Granite State Woodturners currently seeking applicants for its work with two masters whose styles The next meeting of the Granite Studio-Based Learning Program, a are dramatically different: Jon Brooks State Woodturners will be July 28 from three-year, intensive program designed and David Lamb. Because I’m from 9 am to noon. The location and topic is to educate serious furniture designers New England, David’s classic forms TBA. Contact DJ Delorie to be added and craftsmen in the art of fine furniture were more familiar to me, while Jon’s to the e-mail notification list. making. sculptural approach was quite different. DJ Delorie: [email protected] The Studio-Based Learning Program Jon has really pushed me to think in bulletin board 35

condensed from the Concord Monitor Personal Notes

uild member, Roland Hok of experimented with pottery, carpentry, GConcord died Feb. 15, 2007, wood turning, milling lumber, brewing while traveling in Bijapur, India, of an hard cider, raising cows and sheep, apparent heart attack at age 74. He was building wood-fired saunas and bread an ophthalmologist with wide interests ovens, and growing shitake mushrooms in farming, evolutionary biology and on logs. He took as much satisfaction life sciences, music, woodworking, from learning how to do new things as alternative energy, and politics. from the results of his endeavors. Born in Brooklyn, NY, to Anton and Roland took pleasure in hard work. Rose Hok, immigrants from Bohemia With help from his wife Kitty and and Slovakia, Roland attended P.S. 102 other farming friends, he cultivated an and Fort Hamilton High School. As a abundant organic garden and would the seasonal gathering of hay. Relying teenager, he went to Camp Rising Sun, often come in covered from head to toe on his experience with an ever-growing which shifted his view of the world by with sweat and dirt. He grew beds of collection of farm equipment, he focusing on a service ethic, intercultural raspberries and blueberries, and found provided mechanical support to a understanding, and opportunity outside joy in picking and sharing them with network of friends living close to the of New York. He graduated from neighbors and friends. He loved to dig earth. Harvard College in 1955, and McGill potatoes and stack firewood with his Roland was a man of enormous Medical School in 1959. Roland grandchildren, Ben, Russell and Sam generosity, curiosity, and humility interned at St. Vincent’s Hospital in O’Donnell. who brought magic and joy to family New York City, then worked in a mobile A local old-time Yankee farmer, and friends with his loving heart, his medical clinic for the African Research Martin White, taught Roland about music, his tractor hayrides, his wooden Foundation in Kenya. traditional farming and contributed hot tub, his ridiculously huge bonfires, Roland loved working with his to his enduring interest in tools and his homemade Christmas punch, his hands, and his broad curiosity led him machinery. Roland, neighboring wisdom, his endless jokes and laughter, to try many different projects. He farmers, and friends came together in and his smile. He taught us well.

Period Furniture Meetings are held on the second scheduled for September 8. GSWT To get on the email (or phone) list to Saturday of September, November, President Jon Siegel has offered to give receive meeting notifications, contact: January, March, and May. The next a demonstration on turning period John Whiteside: 603-679-5443 Period Furniture Group meeting is furniture parts. or [email protected]

Suppliers offering discounts to Guild members Tools & Supplies Wood Products Big Tree Tools www.bigtreetools.com 888-TURNING Classic Designs www.tablelegs.com 800-843-7405 Brentwood Machinery www.brentwoodmachine.com 800-582-7229 GH Evarts www.ghevarts.com 603-763-4525 Chester Tool Works www.chestertoolworks.com 603-887-6267 Goosebay www.goosebaylumber.com 603-798-5135 Gary R Wood & Co. www.garyrwood.com 603-523-4337 Highland Hardwoods www.highlandhardwoods.com 800-442-1812 Lie-Nielsen Toolworks www.lie-nielsen.com 800-327-2520 Maine Coast Lumber www.mainecoastlumber.com 800-899-1664 Rockler – Cambridge, MA www.rockler.com 617-497-1136 Northland Forest Products www.northlandforest.com 603-642-8275 Rockler – Danvers, MA www.rockler.com 978-774-0241 The Millwork Shop www.t-n.com 603-643-3658 Rockler – Salem, NH www.rockler.com 603-898-5941 Wolfgang’s Wood Strafford, NH 603-664-7691 Williams & Hussey www.williamsnhussey.com 800-258-1380 Woodcraft – Newington, NH www.woodcraft.com 800-234-3818 Schools Woodcraft – Woburn, MA www.woodcraft.com 781-935-6414 Homestead Woodworking www.woodschoolnh.com 888-659-2345 Western Tool Supply www.westerntool.com 603-627-4957 McLaughlin Woods www.experiencewoodworking.com 603-783-9700 The Breed School www.allanbreed.com 603-749-6231 Services The Windsor Institute www.thewindsorinstitute.com 603-929-9801 Navis Pack & Ship Center www.gonavis.com/nh1063 603-424-1035 The Wood Finishing School www.patinarestoration.net 978-363-2638 Each supplier offers a minimum 10% discount to current GNHW members – some restrictions may apply. Ads are displayed in “The Old Saw” on a rotating basis. MINUTEMAN PRESS ® “The Old Saw” is printed by MinuteMan Press • 88 Main St, Nashua, NH • 603-883-4890 • www.nashuaminuteman.com Furniture Making Classes Enjoy a mini apprenticeship with some of America’s best 10% discount for Guild members woodworkers! 45 Goslin Rd 313 Montvale Ave Come into the woods... Newington, NH 03801 Woburn, MA 01801 www.experiencewoodworking.com

nää‡ÓÎ{‡În£n Çn£‡™Îx‡È{£{ 336 Baptist Road Canterbury, NH Except machinery, power tools & already discounted items 603-783-9700 10% annual discount for GNHW

10% Discount on Stock Items to Guild Members 52 BALD HILL ROAD Wolfgang’s Wood NEWMARKET, NH 03857 HOMESTEAD Specialty Native Woods WOODWORKING SCHOOL Alan S. Mitchell Strafford, NH Director – HARDWOOD DISTRIBUTION CENTER – 603-664-7691 10% Discount to GNHW Members Route 125 • Brentwood, NH P.O. BOX 426, KINGSTON, NH 03848 10% Off to GNHW Members PHONE: 603-659-2345 Email: [email protected] TEL 1-800-442-1812 • 603-679-1230 • FAX 603-679-1960 TOLL FREE: 1-888-659-2345 Web: www.woodschoolnh.com

603-929-9801 CLASSIC DESIGNS We Care! www.thewindsorinstitute.com by MATTHEW BURAK www.ghevarts.com TEL (603) 763-4525 SOLUTIONS FOR THE PROFESSIONAL WOODWORKER e 10% Discount Windsor Table Legs, Columns, Cabinet Feet to Guild Members Windsor Chair Kits & Parts Non-Sale Lumber Items Only Institute in Hampton, NH GH Evarts & Co., Inc. 10% Discount to Kiln Dried Hardwood Lumber Build a Family GNHW Members From Our Sawmill Near Lebanon, NH Heirloom with Mike Dunbar 1.800.843.7405 10% Discount for Sack Back Class & www.tablelegs.com Route 4A • West Springfield, NH Catalog Supplies purchased in Sack Back Class

10% discount to members! The Wood Finishing School 603-798-5135 978-363-2638 www.patinarestoration.net The Millwork Shop Sawmill & Lumber www.goosebaylumber.com at Trumbull-Nelson Construction Co., Inc. Learn wood finishing 83 Dover Rd (US Route 4) individually or as part of a group Rt. 120 - Hanover, New Hampshire Chichester, New Hampshire Twenty-seven years experience Milling Services, Hardwoods & Plywoods (10 Minutes from I-93 Concord • Take exit 15 east) Contact Nate Carey – 603/643-3658 Specializing in Bird’s Eye & Curly Maple 10% Discount for Guild Members Fax 603-643-2924 • [email protected] • www.t-n.com Green & Kiln Dried Bowl Blanks & Turning Squares Teaching & Class Instruction Only 10% discount to GNHW Members Rare & Hard to Find Domestic & Imported Hardwoods Bruce Hamilton Antique Restoration

MAINE COAST LUMBER, INC MILL OUTLET STORE • 10% DISCOUNT FOR GUILD MEMBERS 17 WHITE BIRCH LANE The Breed School YORK, ME 03909 Northern and Appalachian Hardwoods (207) 363-7426 • (800) 899-1664 Ash • Basswood • Birch • Cherry • Maple • Mahogany • Oak • Poplar • Walnut American 18th Century Furniture 4/4 - 16/4 Rough or Surfaced Kiln Dried Lumber By Hand Fixed and Special widths • FSC-certified wood from well-managed forests HARDWOOD PLYWOODS - HARDWOOD LUMBER SOFTWOOD LUMBER - MELAMINE 13 Liberty Street, South Berwick, ME 03908 MARINE PLYWOODS EDGE BANDING - VENEER - MDO - MDF PARTICLE BOARD - CUSTOM MOULDINGS 15% Discount to GNHW Members! DOVETAILED DRAWERS - TARGET COATINGS www.allanbreed.com • 603-749-6231 www.mainecoastlumber.com visit www.northlandforest.com for stocking info email: [email protected] All guild members receive a 10% discount 36 Depot Road, Kingston, NH • 603.642.8275 Each supplier offers a minimum 10% discount to current GNHW members – some restrictions may apply. Ads are displayed in displayed Ads are “The Old Saw”restrictions may apply. listing. GNHW members – some complete rotating basis. to current See page 31 for a on a 10% discount supplier offers a minimum Each