Land of Plenty Kelowna Has a Bit of All-Season Everything

Inflight Magazine for Pacific Coastal Airlines

Land of plenty Kelowna has a bit of all-season everything

TRUE TRANQUILITY Haida Gwaii lives up to its legend

RIDING THE RAILS A peek into the Cranbrook History Centre

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Features Departments 10 TRUE TRANQUILITY 20 RIDING THE RAILS 4 UP FRONT

Cover: Kasugai Gardens, courtesy of Tourism Kelowna. of Tourism courtesy Gardens, Kasugai Cover: Haida Gwaii lives up to its legend Cranbrook History Centre President’s Message 14 LAND OF PLENTY 6 MEET A PCA EMPLOYEE Lots to do and see in Kelowna 24 WEST COAST FLAVOURS Pluviophiles in Ucluelet 6 AROUND BC 18 ON YOUR BIKE! News from Pacific Coastal New bike trail in Williams Lake 26 MEET A SNOWBIRD Airlines' destinations Captain Logan Reid

Group Publisher Penny Sakamoto, [email protected] - 250.480.3204 Advertising Patty Doering, [email protected] - 250.480.3244 • Ruby Della Siega, [email protected] - 250.480.3222 Managing Editor Susan Lundy, [email protected] Natasha Griffiths, [email protected] - 250.902.8040 Creative Director Lily Chan | Graphic Design Janice Marshall, Michelle Gjerde Annemarie Rindt, [email protected] - 250.480.3244 • Mario Gedicke, [email protected] - 250.891.5627 Published by Black Press | www.blackpress.ca • 818 Broughton Street , Victoria, BC V8W 1E4

SOAR magazine is published six times per year and is distributed on all Pacific Coastal Airlines flights. The points of view or opinions expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or Pacific Coastal Airlines. The contents of SOAR magazine are protected by copyright, including the designed advertising. Reproduction is prohibited without written consent of the publisher.

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July/August 2021 | 3 | pacificcoastal.com LOOKING AHEAD MESSAGE PRESIDENT’S

he last 16- months have been a Canada, masks are still mandatory during challenge for all of us, but it seems flight and on the aircraft. that the light at the end of the tun- As we look forward to a better future nel is getting closer and stronger. and the return of travel, we continue to look ItT was an exciting milestone and great news at new ways to advance and improve our to hear that BC has introduced a four-step business. We recently introduced a new im- restart plan to bring us back together. More proved internet-booking engine and Apple/ and more Canadians are being vaccinated Google wallet electronic boarding passes every day and doing their part to help for a quicker and more convenient online reduce transmission of COVID-19. customer experience. To learn more, you can With the provincial restart plan an- visit our website and check out our blog for nouncement, we are starting to see an more details. increase in reservation bookings as we Thank you again to our customers and continue through the summer months. As partners for their support and patience as part of the initiatives to meet the increased we continue to work through the challenges demand, we have returned our Saturday of the COVID-19 pandemic. Please remem- service to several of our communities. ber to stay safe and stay healthy. I would like to remind our customers that we remain committed to our enhanced safety measures and, as per Transport

Quentin Smith

July/August 2021 | 4 | pacificcoastal.com BC COVID recovery fund aids Indigenous tourism

Nisga’a Museum in the BC Northwest is among the Indigenous tourism projects funded for improvements by the province’s COVID-19 recovery fund. (Nisga’a Lisims Government photo.)

By Tom Fletcher westcoasttraveller.com BRITISH COLUMBIA: minister Melanie Mark calls a prime unique heritage, rural economic With interprovincial travel and area for attracting visitors. recovery, regional tourism devel- tourism restarting in July, the BC “Indigenous tourism is one of opment and tourism dependent government has committed $28 the fastest-growing segments in BC communities. Communities receiv- million from its COVID-19 recovery tourism because it provides oppor- ing funding are Fernie, Grand Forks, funds to assist Indigenous tourism tunities to share Indigenous cultures Kimberley, Prince Rupert, Sun Peaks, development in every corner of the and to experience communities in Lillooet and Powell River. province. a new way,” Mark says. “This fund- Indigenous communities are mak- The program reaches from the ing demonstrates reconciliation in ing their own call on when to receive Nisga’a Museum in the Northwest to action by creating and expanding visitors, based on their COVID-19 the Shuswap Trail Alliance in the Inte- tourism economic development vaccination levels, health services and rior, the Songhees Nation on Vancou- projects with Indigenous Nations other considerations. The province ver Island and the Katzie First Nation and supporting self-determination maintains a list of Indigenous attrac- in the Lower Mainland. With tourism for Indigenous businesses.” tions that are receiving visitors online beginning to recover as pandemic Projects and organizations quali- here: indigenousbc.com/stay-local- gathering and travel restrictions ease, fied under six separate recovery support-indigenousbc assistance is going to what tourism funds: destination development,

July/August 2021 | 5 | pacificcoastal.com MEET A AROUND BC PACIFIC COASTAL EMPLOYEE: MATT

Self-guided Cowichan Valley Wine Position: Cargo Lead at YVR Location: Festival runs in August Vancouver Airport Operations Time with PASCO: About 2.5 years By Jennifer Blyth westcoasttraveller.com Job description: Responsible for the day-to-day cargo operations in and out of our hub at YVR, coordinating time- COWICHAN VALLEY: Twelve mation about safety precautions, and sensitive shipments and making sure all wineries. Thirty-one days. Thirty-six note that some businesses require items are security screened and safe for unforgettable wines. Raise your glass this reservations for all tastings. transportation on our aircraft. summer to the Cowichan Valley Wine What do you love most about this Festival. job? I love working for a smaller compa- The self-guided passport-style festival Campground ny, and getting to know people across invites you to explore 12 award-winning all departments and the other bases. wineries across the Cowichan Val- I've been fortunate enough to complete renamed to ley throughout the month of August. my flight training while working here, and having first-hand exposure to our Explore Cowichan over 31 summer days, recognize First daily operations and being around with your passport and tasting glass. The other aviation professionals has been festival highlights the valley’s unique extremely useful. And there's always place among British Columbia wine Nations someone up to go flying too! regions. By Wolf Depner, westcoasttraveller.com Who is your family? I live with my Cowichan has been designated as a partner Gareth and our little two-year- specific British Columbian sub-GI wine SIDNEY: A small ceremony held in old rescue dog, Angus. He's a Jack region—an important distinction—so May renamed a southern Vancouver Russell and Italian Greyhound mix (we you know your wine was produced with Island campground in a move think), so equal parts of boundless en- recognizing Indigenous culture and ergy, mischievous and super chill. at least 95 per cent Cowichan-grown grapes. It’s part of what makes the Val- connection to the land. Where were you born and where ley’s winemakers and wine so special. SMONECTEN—the new name did you grow up? I was born and Participating wineries include: Averill of McDonald Campground—will raised in Horsham, Sussex in the UK before spending periods of time in Creek Vineyard; Blue Grouse Estate continue to serve as a seasonal Parks Bristol, Linköping and then London. Winery; Cherry Point Estate Wines; Da- Canada campground in Gulf Islands I moved to Canada in 2017 and have mali Winery; Deol Estate Winery; Divino National Park Reserve. been based in Vancouver since then. Estate Winery; Enrico Winery; Glenterra Jonathan Wilkinson, minister What are your hobbies outside of Winery; Rocky Creek Winery; Unsworth responsible for Parks Canada, said that the job? Anything that enables me Vineyards; Venturi-Schulze Vineyards; Parks Canada and Indigenous peoples to get outdoors—dog-friendly hikes, and Zanatta Vineyards. are partners in conserving the natural beach days or trying to remember how All events will follow the current and cultural heritage of the region to ski is always a fun time. I’m a big fan health protocols. Check with each loca- while sharing their stories. of the various breweries around Mount “The renaming and enhance- Pleasant and Strathcona areas too. tion before arriving for the latest infor- July/August 2021 | 6 | pacificcoastal.com Welcome to the amazing world of insects, arachnids and their many legged friends!

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July/August 2021 | 7 | pacificcoastal.com ments of SMONECTEN Campground will help Canadians gain further appreciation of local Indigenous culture, while ensuring New bridge is good news WSANEC community members of all ages see their culture and language reflected back on these lands of enduring signifi- for Cape Scott hikers cance,” he said. The new name comes from the local SENCOTEN (pro- PORT HARDY: Northern Vancouver Island’s Cape Scott nounced sen chaw thun) language and means “fir pitch place.” Trail has a brand new bridge in place after local crews installed a WSANEC Leadership Council chair Don Tom welcomed the replacement bridge at Hansen’s Lagoon, upgrading the previous renaming of the site, a place where local First Nations would one that washed away during the winter’s heavy weather. harvest various materials. The Cape Scott Trail is now accessible and can be used to “As these places were taken from WSANEC people, new reach Nels Bight and Guise Bay. names were placed on the landscape and our presence in the The most popular camping destination in the park, and a eyes of settlers was diminished,” he said. “But within WSANEC good base for those exploring farther, Nels Bight is just shy of culture, this information was never forgotten. We held it tight 16 kilometres from the trailhead—about six hours hiking time, to our chest waiting for people to listen once again. Today, I am one-way. Hikers are rewarded with a beautiful 2,400-metre- proud to see the government begin the process of listening long sandy beach that’s 210 metres wide at low tide. by taking these small steps toward preserving and honouring Guise Bay, 20.7 kilometres from the trailhead, presents a WSANEC culture and history.” one-way hiking time of about 7.5 hours. Another beautiful The park now includes wood panels, which carvers from all beach with good camping possibilities, the bay is sometimes four First Nations on the Saanich Peninsula (Tsartlip, Pau- popular with endangered sea otters. quachin, Tseycum and Tsawout) have crafted. The displays show how the site was once a place to gather liquid pitch, also known as sap, from Douglas fir trees to start fires, patch canoes, Living Lakes Canada heal wounds and light lanterns. SMONECTEN features 49 drive-in and walk-in campsites launches photo challenge just north of the Town of Sidney; it's May 15 to September 30. People also frequent the area for forest walks. BRITISH COLUMBIA: This summer, Living Lakes Canada is calling on BC residents to get involved in the Lake Biodiversity Photo Challenge to help raise awareness around the health of BC’s freshwater lakes. Simply snap a photo of your favourite lake(s) and submit it to the contest for a chance to win prizes from Kicking Horse Coffee and Lush. Photo submissions will be CLEAN, SAFE, accepted until July 31 and displayed in an online gallery and shared on social media. RELIABLE SUVs There will be one winner for each cat- egory: Most Biodiverse, Public Favourite and Most Impactful. Win- ners will be chosen by Earth Rangers President Tovah Barocas and an- Ta Ta Lake, East Kootenays nounced at the end of Lakes Appreciation Month in July. Photography: Tyler Cave Tyler Photography: Canada is home to two million freshwater lakes, but not all of them are monitored regularly or even photographed, which makes it hard to tell how these lakes have changed over time. Lakes are subject to impacts such as shoreline development, changing nutrient levels, and water levels. Photos provide refer- • Major Credit Cards Accepted • Fast and easy check-in & check-out ence points that can help determine the scale at which human • Friendly Reliable Service • Custom packages available activity or natural occurrences are impacting these water • Located at Bella Coola Airport including Pick-up and Drop-off bodies. These issues, combined with the impacts of climate • Access to Anahim Lake via road services change, make community-based water monitoring efforts like Bella Coola Vehicle Rentals photo documentation even more important. Stephen Waugh Submit your photos by email to lakeblitz@livinglakescanada. [email protected] ca, via the online submission form at lakeblitz.livinglakescana- 250.982.2146 • Cell/Text: 1.250.957.7072 bellacoolavehiclerentals.comhttp://bellacoolavehiclerentals.com/ da.ca or by using #LakeBlitzPhoto on social media.

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July/August 2021 | 10 | pacificcoastal.com This region, about a two-hour flight Pacific Northwest in 1774. Then we Haida northwest of Vancouver, offers a sight four transient killer whales. For unique blend of ancient Indigenous half an hour, I watch in wonder as the Gwaii lives up culture, unspoiled nature and ocean- magnificent dorsal fins of the male going adventures. orca, two females and a calf surface One morning, Cascadia pulls up over and over. to its legend within eyeshot of Garcin Rocks, a And that’s just one day. Off-ship Story and photos by Lucas Aykroyd Steller sea lion rookery. More than excursions provide even more wildlife 200 sea lions are hanging out, mating, viewing. diving and barking. They sound like Bald eagles soar overhead during eathered, intricately aspiring death-metal vocalists and a morning kayaking expedition with carved totem poles smell like fishmongers. Maple Leaf Adventures naturalist face the sheltered bay After snapping some vivid photos, Trudy Chatwin, who is always happy in SGang Gwaay. Breath- we move on. We promptly spot a pod to point out ancient murrelets or Wing deeply, I gaze at this abandoned of humpback whales. A fin whale — tufted puffins. Curious seals pop their village in Haida Gwaii, an isolated northern the world’s second-largest whale after heads out of De la Beche Inlet, brim- British Columbia archipelago with more the blue whale — surfaces nearby ming with lion’s mane jellyfish with than 450 islands. and spouts. Standing at the prow, I long tendrils. Passing by little water- Walter, the native Haida watch- feel the spray caress my face. falls, we enter a natural grotto, where man leading my tour group, takes Even more surreal, hundreds of a rainbow appears, before we paddle us up the hill to view the remains of Pacific white-sided dolphins surround back to Cascadia. a six-beam longhouse with corner the boat moments later, leaping out Later, we head out in a skiff on posts. Mossy logs overhang a deep of the glittering ocean like madcap Burnaby Narrows, featuring one of the indentation in the ground. synchronized swimmers. world’s richest and most biodiverse “The roof consisted of big cedar “I’ve never seen anything quite like intertidal zones between Moresby planks held in place with rocks,” he this,” expedition leader Mike Jackson Island and Burnaby Island. Just off a explains. says. beach blanketed with black mussels, Next, Walter recounts a supernatu- Early that afternoon, we’re prepar- Mike suits up for cold water snorkel- ral tale about children transforming ing to stop at Hotspring Island and ing. Diving in, he carefully retrieves a into bears. relax in 44-degree-Celsius pools over- giant sea cucumber, a red sea urchin, SGang Gwaay — a UNESCO looking Juan Perez Sound, named moon snails and other specimens for World Heritage Site since 1981 — is after the first European to explore the our viewing pleasure. the closest thing to Easter Island’s awe-inspiring statues that I’ve ever experienced in Canada. True tranquillity abounds. “I’ve never seen anything quite like this,” expedition leader Mike Jackson says.

I’m on a week-long cruise with Maple Leaf Adventures, an eco- friendly luxury tour operator based in Victoria. Every itinerary is slightly different, based on weather, wildlife sightings and guest preferences. Cascadia, a 138-foot expedition-style catamaran, which was recently reno- vated and debuted in BC waters in 2019, welcomes up to 24 travellers. Happily, blue skies dominate on this June trip. Southern Haida Gwaii is federally designated and protected as the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, a National Marine Conserva- tion Area, and a Haida Heritage Site.

July/August 2021 | 11 | pacificcoastal.com There are plenty of ways to relax while sailing. Sometimes, I soak up a nature presentation by Mike or Trudy. Other times, I socialize with other guests while sipping a Maple Leaf ISA specially brewed by Spin- nakers, Canada’s oldest brewpub, founded in Victoria in 1984. Reading a book from the onboard library is always a good option in this WiFi-free zone. John Vaillant’s The Golden Spruce (2005) compellingly documents how a logger felled a huge Sitka spruce, sacred to the Haida people, as an ill-conceived environmental protest. I sleep peacefully in my well-appointed cabin, which includes a hot shower, natural soaps and sham- poos, and other perks. Gifts for sale range from Susan Musgrave’s A Taste of Haida Gwaii cookbook ($40) to eagle-adorned Even more surreally, hun- To keep Gwaii Haanas pristine and silk scarves ($80) by Haida artist respect its Indigenous heritage, trip Dorothy Grant. My favourite gift, dreds of Pacific white-sided permits and an orientation on safety and though, is simply spending time in dolphins surround the boat cultural history are required for visitors. Haida Gwaii. It has inspired legend- For those fortunate enough to sail on ary BC art. moments later, leaping Cascadia, there’s also a hearty helping of At Tanu, we visit the burial site of out of the glittering ocean creature comforts. Bill Reid, who carved the iconic Jade like madcap synchronized Chef Mara Jernigan concocts an Canoe statue at Vancouver Interna- excellent daily menu, burgeoning with tional Airport. We also tour the vil- swimmers. BC-sourced ingredients. Lunch might lage of Skedans, whose longhouses consist of chicken curry with brown bas- and mortuary poles were immortal- mati rice, or lamb chili with coleslaw and ized by Victoria artist Emily Carr in corn bread. Dinner could feature crisp her moody paintings and her 1941 duck confit with puréed white beans and book Klee Wyck. roasted Brussels sprouts, or sablefish with I’m more of a wordsmith than an steamed carrots and Chinese cabbage. artist, but visions of Haida Gwaii will The lavish desserts and post-outing linger in my mind for many years to snacks are a story in themselves. come.

Photo by Dave Hollis, courtesy Maple Leaf Adventures.

July/August 2021 | 12 | pacificcoastal.com July/August 2021 | 13 | pacificcoastal.com KELOWNA KELOWNA Land of Plenty (to do and see)

Biking on Knox Mountain. All photos courtesy Tourism Kelowna This Okanagan town has a bit of all-season everything

elcome to Kelowna. The largest city in the interior of Brit- orchards and vineyards, sandy Urban and rural, nature ish Columbia and along the shores of beaches and superb amenities. and culture, playtime and Okanagan Lake, Kelowna’s name origi- Kelowna has miles of beautiful downtime: Kelowna isn’t nates from the Syilx/Okanagan peoples parkland and several sandy beaches Wjust one destination. It’s a whole bunch of word for grizzly bear. Kelowna is cradled that provide wonderful opportuni- them, located in one uniquely beauti- within a glorious range of mountains ties for boating, swimming, water- ful place that should be explored in all and is a sanctuary filled with pristine skiing, windsurfing and fishing in seasons. lakes, pine forests, abundant gardens, the summer. As well, you can hit

July/August 2021 | 14 | pacificcoastal.com Kelowna isn’t just one unique shops and a vibrant cultural life the golf courses in the area some of all year long. the most picturesque in the coun- destination. It’s a whole Any time, any day, any season, try. Many golf courses also offer bunch of them, located in Kelowna and the Okanagan Valley offer amazing dining experiences that a world of things to do. The options range from casual to gourmet. one uniquely beautiful place are endless and there’s something for With courses that range from that should be explored in everyone. easy-going to ego-shattering, there is something in Kelowna for every Wine all seasons. skill level. Build your own golf pack- Kelowna is the birthplace of wine- age, view sample golf packages or making in British Columbia; it’s known book tee-times to experience the the links at one of the many golf for its top-quality wines that regularly mild weather, stunning scenery and courses nine months out of the year. win national and international awards. more than 19 exceptional courses In cooler months, the snow-capped With over 40 wineries within a 20 that make Kelowna a must-play mountains and pine-filled forests are minute drive, you’ll find plenty of terroir destination on every golf enthusi- a haven for skiers, boarders, snowmo- to swirl, sip and savour. The area has five ast's list! bilers and outdoor adventurists of all unique wine trails: Kelowna’s Southeast types and levels. Bench, Lake Country's Scenic Sip, West- Farms, Orchards & Markets Orchards and vineyards thrive side Wine Trail, Lakeshore Wine Route Kelowna’s agricultural roots go within a 10-minute drive from the and Downtown Grapes & Grains. Explore deep. You want fresh? You've come downtown core and provide year- the wine country where you will find an to the right place. Kelowna is inter- round seasonal delights. You can abundance of culinary experiences as nationally renowned for its locally pluck ripe cherries or juicy peaches well as unforgettable winery and vine- grown fruit and produce. from trees or spend a day sampling yard events throughout the year. Each season is celebrated with award-winning internationally ac- special festivals. Stop at a roadside Golf claimed wines. fruit stand. Visit a farm or orchard. Averaging over 2,000 hours of sun That’s not all. Kelowna’s growing Gorge yourself on cherries, bob every year, Kelowna offers one of the Cultural District covers several blocks for apples and stomp grapes. The longest, driest golf seasons in Canada. in the downtown area and features a region’s micro-climate and predis- Vineyards, orchards, semi-desert terrain, concentration of galleries, museums, position for a long, hot growing rolling hills and expansive lakes make theatres, artists’ studios, fine dining, season mean you can tour stun-

Quails Gate Winery Dinner in the Vineyard.

July/August 2021 | 15 | pacificcoastal.com Kayaking Okanagan Lake. ning floral gardens, take tractor tours region. Many beaches are equipped lakeside resorts along the shores of of orchards, and stroll vineyards. with playgrounds, concessions and Okanagan Lake and family-friendly bathrooms. hotels with pools and waterslides, Farm to Table Dining Enjoy the lake from a stand-up there are many options. Here in Kelowna and the Okana- paddleboard (SUP), wake boat, If easy beach and lake access is gan Valley, farmers and chefs take sailboat, pedal-boat, charter boat, top of your list, consider the historic pride in their commitment to quality flyboard, kayak, or canoe—boats Eldorado Resort with its charming and share a passion for locally grown are available for every kind of water boutique hotel that is perfect for food. Because the farms and restau- enthusiast. Okanagan Lake's water couples, or the more urban resort rants are so close together, chefs can temperature in July averages 19 to hotel that’s a fit for a family. The Delta pick products at just the right mo- 23C (69 to 71F). Hotels by Marriot Grand Okanagan ment to create tasty works of art, all The lake is welcoming and refresh- Resort is conveniently located down- in the same day. So go eat local and ing during the summer but it also has town within easy walking distance give it a taste. mysteries—creatures, hidden coves to all amenities. The Cove Lakeside Lake Activities and tombs. Search for Ogopogo, hike Resort located on the western shores Stunning Okanagan Lake spans Paul's Tomb trail at Knox Mountain or of Okanagan Lake features all suites, 135 kilometres (84 miles) from north snorkel in the crystal clear water of making your stay feel like home away (at Vernon) to the south (at Pentic- the quiet, secluded bays. from home. Hotels with pools and waterslides ton). Kelowna sits just about half way, Where to stay and the east and west sides of the make for a perfect family-friendly Want a budget-friendly vaca- lake are connected by the wondrous stay. Try the Comfort Suites, newly tion with the family or a couple’s five-lane William R. Bennett Bridge, built Hyatt Place Kelowna, Coast Ca- getaway? Rest assured knowing one of very few floating bridges in pri or Prestige Beach House. All have that lodging in Kelowna will exceed the world, suspended over the lake great amenities including breakfast, your expectations, wants and needs. floor almost 200 feet below. parking and convenient locations to From outdoor camping at provincial Okanagan Lake is known for its easily explore Kelowna and area. and regional parks to cosy bed and beaches with over 30 throughout the breakfasts with lake and valley views,

July/August 2021 | 16 | pacificcoastal.com Kayaking Okanagan Lake.

July/August 2021 | 17 | pacificcoastal.com On your bike!

Sugar Cane youth, along with WLFN councillor Shawna Philbrick, are all smiles as they take some new mountain bikes for a test ride Monday afternoon. (Angie Mindus photo - Williams Lake Tribune) Williams Lake First Nation breaks ground on multi-use bike trail project By Greg Sabatino westcoasttraveller.com

s the sun peeked over the The morning’s ceremony—led during COVID,” Sellars told the Williams mountaintops above Chief Will- by traditional drumming and sing- Lake Tribune. “And it’s starting with this Yum Campground just south of ing from community member David trail here … this is part of a really cool Williams Lake earlier this spring, Archie—kicked off construction of vision and I couldn’t be more excited. Athere was excitement in the air. a multi-use connector trail joining Mountain biking is going to be a Williams Lake First Nation Chief Wil- the Chief Will-Yum Campground to valuable tool for us—getting people lie Sellars, joined by James Doerfling the Sugar Cane community across out onto the land and doing physical of Jimco Services, Thomas Schoen, Highway 97. activity —incorporating other things CEO of First Journey Trails, and Sugar Phase 1 of the project would see into our culture and tradition.” Cane Archeology’s Marvin Bob, broke the construction of a 1,750-metre hik- Doerfling, a professional, world- ground on a new vision for the na- ing and biking trail. class mountain biker now turned trail tion to bring members onto the land “It’s about getting people out onto builder, is heading up the machine- through recreational mountain biking the land, and how important that is, built construction of the trail, while and hiking. which has become very apparent Schoen is managing the project. Once

July/August 2021 | 18 | pacificcoastal.com WILLIAMS LAKE

complete, the single-track trail will be suitable for all “We are following their recommendations and this new trail types of bicycles and will also allow for winter snowshoe is a step in creating a much larger trail network in and around or fatbike activities. The trail will also include some ad- the T’exelc community.” ditional infrastructure, including a viewing deck. Schoen said he’s been involved in trail development for Doerfling said the bi-directional trail will be a the WLFN for years, and noted it was sad to lose three popular green—or beginner—trail, with dirt features that will trails in 2017 wildfires. make it fun for advanced mountain bikers as well. “Starting to rebuild and create additional trails is something Construction time will be roughly eight to 10 weeks, I’m excited and passionate about,” he said. making a summer-time launch likely. The trailhead, The long-term goal is to build a network of trails that equipped with parking access, will act as a launching members can use for running, walking, hiking and riding as a pad for future gravity flow trails and a mountain biking springboard to finding additional ways to keep youth active trail network to connect to, with even the potential for a and busy. commuter trail stretching to 150 Mile House. Schoen, a longtime trail builder, said following the devastation of the 2017 wildfires and the destruction of some of the mountain biking trails in the area, the project marks a new beginning. “These trails have such a profound impact on community members and non-community members,” Schoen said. The trail also puts into motion the results of a com- prehensive community master trail plan for WLFN. CRANBROOK, B.C. “We circulated a survey to collect stakeholder input Spacious rooms & suites from WLFN community members,” Schoen said, noting 1908 Cranbrook Street N (Hwy3/95) an overwhelming majority of community members 1-888-489-4600 thought new trails would enhance their quality of life.

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July/August 2021 | 19 | pacificcoastal.com CRANBROOK Riding the rails

Cranbrook is a true rail town. A peek into the Cranbrook History Centre By Hans Tammemagi

an you imagine Garry An- tra rich. “It was like discovering the Railways played a significant role derson’s surprise when he Tomb of Tutankhamun,” Garry said. in the early days of Canada before spread paint remover onto the He was hooked! From 1975 to highways and air travel domi- wall of a railway car he had re- 2013, Garry scoured the continent to nated. It’s appropriate that such a cently acquired,C and slowly a beautiful collect and renovate 26 additional rail fine glimpse into that historical pe- black walnut wood, inlaid with a delicate cars, many of them historic treasures, riod is displayed in Cranbrook, as this rose, appeared? ultimately establishing what is con- small city was created in 1898 be- Research revealed that the railway sidered the finest railway museum cause of the railway, and long car he had obtained for the price of in North America. He was executive trains continue to roll regularly scrap metal to display at the mu- director of the museum during this through its western edge. seum in Cranbrook’s downtown rail- time, and also a formidable fundrais- The Canadian Museum way area was the Argyle, the dining er—since acquiring and renovating of Rail Travel was renamed the Cran- car of the famed 1920s Trans-Canada rail cars is far from a cheap busi- brook History Centre in 2013 and Limited, a special CPR train that was ness. In 2007, he received the Order of now contains displays of paleontol- richly appointed to transport the ul- Canada in recognition of his work. ogy and Cranbrook’s history.

July/August 2021 | 20 | pacificcoastal.com The museum presents an important and fas- cinating look into our nation’s past. For example, seven of the museum’s rail cars comprise a complete set of the Trans-Canada Limited, the only one in existence today. (Limited meant it only stopped at major cities.) The 1929 Trans-Canada Limited was the pinnacle of luxury and the ultimate way for the rich to travel. The seven luxuriously appointed cars were constructed of steel but with a rich finishing in black walnut and mahogany inlaid with elegant designs. Sumptuous meals were prepared and consumed. The décor included stained glass, observa- tion platforms and plush velvet. Social life centred on the dining car and the solarium lounge car at the end. It was a deluxe five-star hotel on wheels with no comparable service in its day and no equivalent today. Running on CP tracks between Vancouver and Montreal, the train did not pass through Cranbrook. Another exclusive aspect of the museum is its enormous size. Each of the 27 cars is approximately 90 feet long and weighs about 90 tons, which dwarfs the typi- cal museum artifact. The cars occupy three tracks about 100 metres in length and together with many additional historical buildings, the Cranbrook museum is probably one of the physically largest in the country. Sleeping car on the Trans-Canada Limited. Caring for such a huge, unique collection of rail cars, most with extremely fragile and valuable interiors, is challenging. The first phase of providing protection from the elements has just been completed with a permanent roof that shelters about a third of the railcars. The next two phases, estimated to take about five years, will complete the roof and add walls and heating/cooling. ITALIANLove FOOD? The museum also obtained four cars from the even older fabled Soo-Spokane Train De Luxe, which started in 1907 and was also luxuriantly finished and intended “Come Twirl with u for ultra-rich travellers. An express service, it made few Italian family style dining stops as it ran between Spokane and Minneapolis, featuring our traditional passing through Cranbrook and Sault Sainte Marie. Colander Special Garry’s detection and persuasion skills were cru- cial in tracking down two of the rail cars—which had Pasta and More been converted to lake-side cottages in Minnesota— Shopping at Waneta Plaza? and convincing the owners to part with them. The Try the Colander Express purchase price, transportation and renovation costs River Belle were enormous, but Garry pulled it off. Renovations banquet facility revealed a luxurious Art Nouveau interior design dé- cor. Although the train ran partly in the USA, it was The owned by CPR and formed an important part of Cran- brook’s early history. The 1927 Strathcona was a special executive car reserved for dignitaries and it carried people such as Princess Elizabeth and Prince Phillip, Winston Lunch: 11:30 am - 2pm Weekdays Churchill, John and Jackie Kennedy, CP Rail execu- Dinner: 4:30 - 8:30pm Daily tives and many other VIPs. The car usually travelled For Reservations 250-364-1816 with a partner car, the Mt. Steven, and went wherever 1475 Cedar Avenue, Trail, BC in Canada the passengers wished to go. There were

July/August 2021 | 21 | pacificcoastal.com Slow down and see more! usually additional cars, not as luxuriously appointed, for and operated until 1971. The oak-panneled Grand Cafe, the dignitaries’ entourage. As an example of its opulence, though, was saved, along with the massive oak fireplace ice was used for cooling in the summertime—a 1930s ver- from the formal dining room, and reconstructed in Enjoy Fuel Freedom as sion of air conditioning. Cranbrook. The goals were to expand the CPR historical These trains are far from ordinary. They represent the experience and give Cranbrook a glamorous heritage you explore Penticton by most beautiful, historic passenger trains ever operated space that can hold several hundred people for special in Canada and show that our country in the first half of events. foot, pedal or paddle. the 20th century had one of the highest levels of train Today, you can wander through the History Cen- design, interior decor, construction and operations in the tre and reminisce about the days when railroads were world. Not only did they provide a rich lifestyle but they the king of the land. were faster than any transcontinental train in the USA. This If You Go visitpenticton.com collection is of international importance. The Cranbrook History Centre offers three tours: 1) The museum also has two locomotives, a water tower, @visitpenticton | #visitpenticton The Trans Canada Limited; 2) the Soo-Spokane cars; 3) a freight shed and the Elko station. The pièce de résis- And an overview of how trains changed from the early tance, however, is the Royal Alexandra Hall. CPR’s el- 1900s to modern times. egant Royal Alexandra Hotel was built in Winnipeg in 1906 cranbrookhistorycentre.com

July/August 2021 | 22 | pacificcoastal.com Slow down and see more! Enjoy Fuel Freedom as you explore Penticton by foot, pedal or paddle. visitpenticton.com @visitpenticton | #visitpenticton

July/August 2021 | 23 | pacificcoastal.com UCLUELET

Flavours of

the Chef Warren Barr and West Coast Lily Verney-Downey. Pluvio restaurant flourishes amid a blossoming Ucluelet By Susan Lundy

e’re in Ucluelet on Warren, but who is also hands-on in the a campfire at the water’s edge, why Vancouver Island’s west dining room. “Did I just see food plated shouldn't it look like one? coast, settling into seats on a bed of sticks and stones?” Still trying to decide my own at Pluvio restaurant's She nods and smiles. This is my first meal, I watch Warren plate a ring Wchef’s table. In front of us, Chef Warren inkling that the dinner at Pluvio— of succulent-looking butter-soaked Barr and his sous chefs seem immersed named fourth best new restaurant in scallops, my absolute favourite food. in choreography as they spin and dance Canada just six months after opening in “Would it be possible to make that around the kitchen, transforming food the spring of 2019—will be unique. for me without butter?’ I ask (regret- into cuisine that has our mouths water- It’s riveting sitting at the chef’s ting my dairy allergy). ing. table watching the transformation of Warren hesitates and then shakes Suddenly, I spot something out ingredients from raw to edible art. The his head. “No,” he says. “But I can add of the corner of my eye. plating is so unique but so obvious. Why some scallops to your plate.” “Excuse me,” I say, pulling aside wouldn’t you serve smoked spruce- At first, I’m taken aback because Lily Verney-Downey, who owns flavoured candied salmon on a beach most restaurants meet this request. Pluvio along with chef-husband setting of stones and sticks? It tastes like But suddenly I am thrilled. Here is a

July/August 2021 | 24 | pacificcoastal.com “I want Ukee to be known as having the best … a small humble town that people take pride in.” chef so proud of his creations, he’s Ucluelet Brewing Company and not willing to compromise. Foggy Bean Coffee Co. Ukee This is the second time today I’ve may not have the Pacific met a sky-high personal standard Rim’s signature long sandy and it says something about Uclue- beaches, but a hike on let. Once considered the slightly the Wild Pacific Trail offers dowdy cousin of hip Tofino down breathtaking, wild-sea vis- the highway, Ucluelet (or Ukee as it’s tas and a relaxing immer- known locally) now bursts with its sion in a lush rainforest. own flavour and personality. Ukee is And there’s lots to do in not “Tofino Lite:” it stands alone as a this booming town that’s must-do destination. filled with young, creative A few hours before our dinner people. at Pluvio, we stop by Pacific Rim Back at Pluvio, the theme Distillery, where Luke Erridge creates that local-is-best continues to uniquely flavoured gin and vodka, emerge as Chef Warren presents using four-generations worth of his us with several courses of inspired family’s whisky-making techniques. Canadian cuisine, rich in seasonal Spirits don’t get more hand-crafted and wild ingredients—many foraged than this. Everything is fermented from nearby forests and coastlines using Luke’s own wild yeast cul- or grown in Pluvio’s own garden. ture, propagated in nearby Barkley The wine and cocktail list is similarly great place to experience local Sound. He hand-forages all nine inspired, with the wines carefully se- sea life showcased in exhibits botanicals used in his Lighthouse lected, frequently from lesser-known, designed to inspire respect for Gin, and everything is made on-site small-batch wineries. Finally, even ocean habitats. Some of the at a distillery hand-built by Luke and the name celebrates the site: “Plu- displays are interactive and his grandfather. viophile: (n) a lover of rain; someone the entire experience is both The spirits are made in small who finds joy and peace of mind educational and entertaining. batches—each is unique—and during rainy days.” The aquarium has a a unique when we visited, Luke had little Our meal is peppered with sur- catch-and-release program, stock left. At the time, just three prises, both in the flavours and pre- and consistently releases more select restaurants carried the spirits sentation, and we leave completely animals than it collects as ba- (Pluvio was one), and Luke had no satiated with the flavours of Ukee. bies are born and new animals intention of ramping up production. arrive through the facility’s In fact, he seemed a bit reluctant Here are some other things to water system. to sell one of the last bottles of check out in Ucluelet: his hand-crafted vodka to any old • In addition to Pluvio, another bloke. excellent spot to dine is located “If you say you’re going to mix right next door: Heartwood it with Coca Cola, I probably won’t Kitchen features West Coast fla- sell it to you,” he laughs. For sure, his vours served up from an expan- GETTING THERE gin and vodka are meant for sipping sive, vegetarian-friendly menu straight up. The flavours are that with lots of gluten-free options. Pacific Coastal Airlines unique. For breakfast, try The Blue Room provides year round service “I want Ukee to be known as across the street; for waterfront between Vancouver Interna- having the best … a small humble happy hour, drive out to Float tional Airport's South Termi- town that people take pride in,” he Lounge at Black Rock Resort. Be nal and Tofino-Long Beach says. sure to drop by Zoe’s Bakery; it’s Airport. To this end, top-notch hand- another local hot spot. See pacificcoastal.com crafters are sprouting up around • The Ucluelet Aquarium is a town, including the brand new

July/August 2021 | 25 | pacificcoastal.com VANCOUVER ISLAND Meet Snowbird Captain Logan Reid By Darcy Nybo Photos Contributed

hen Logan Reid was a child, his family would drive from their home in Central Saanich to Comox Wfor the air show. Much to Logan’s delight, they went every year. “I was inspired about aviation by going to those air shows,” he said. “I loved the noise and the thunder and the grace of watching the planes fly through the air. Those were the first seeds planted for me to want to be a pilot.” When Logan was 13, he joined the 676 Kittyhawk Air Cadets at the Victoria International Airport. “It was one of those things that seemed interesting and it turned out to be a great exposure to the aviation industry,” he recalls. “The beauty of the air cadets is that it provides access to so much experience that most people don’t get. My first experience in a glider was that it was graceful and eerily quiet.” While the glider was peaceful, Logan wanted to fly jets and go as fast as possible. “I moved from Central Saanich (near Sidney) in 2008 when I went Captain Logan Reid to Royal Military College in Kingston, Ontario. You need to have a degree to be a pilot and I got mine in aeronauti- He flew with them in 2019 and, in Logan, his wife and his son get cal engineering.” the 2020/2021 season, advanced to back to Vancouver Island whenever Logan met his wife in Victoria in become the lead solo. possible, although not recently given 2010 when he was posted to Comox Living away from family has been travel restrictions. 442 Squadron. hard, but Moose Jaw provides a solid “We were be back in Comox in May “We had a long-distance relation- base for Logan, his wife and their for training. The Snowbirds’ schedule ship until I was done college and three-year-old son. started in June this year and we fly all we’ve been together ever since.” “It’s very demanding to be married over Canada. It’s such a big season for The couple moved to Moose Jaw to me. In normal times, we [Snow- us, as we didn’t fly our 50th season in once Logan graduated. Then in 2018, birds] travel a lot and have little time 2020, so we’ll be doing it in 2021. To after his first tour as a flight instruc- at home. My wife is very supportive be performing in front of the North tor, he tried out and was accepted and a great mom to our little guy. He’s American public is a huge privilege. into the famed Canadian Snowbirds. also getting excited about airplanes.” I’m looking forward to remaining with

July/August 2021 | 26 | pacificcoastal.com the team through 2022.” the skill, professionalism and team- “We have a 30-minute air show In talking about his family, he de- work of the Canadian Forces.” that has a beginning, middle and scribes his mom as a “hesitant” fan. These shows are the result of end. In the beginning, nine planes do “She worries and it’s hard for her thousands of hours of experience aerobatics together. In the middle, to watch me fly 1,000 kilometres an and training. we call it specialty maneuvers when hour at another airplane and miss it “There are a lot of complex seven planes break off and the two by 30 feet. She’s still very supportive, aerodynamics involved. We judge solos do their head-on crosses. The though, and watches the shows our rates of movement from the rest of the formation conducts other every year.” lead jet, and the lead aircraft also specialty maneuvers, one right after Logan isn’t sure what he’ll do af- calls out commands as to how they the other. The end of the show is ter the Snowbirds, which is normally are manipulating their plane,” he when the solos rejoin the seven and a three- to five-year posting. all nine planes fly in tight formation “Every time I visit the island, I “I loved the noise and the and do things like splits, loops and imagine myself finding a way to get rolls. back. There are so many options thunder and the grace of “It’s not just watching airplanes out there to anyone in the aviation watching those planes fly dance in the sky. The visual aspect industry. Anyone with a skill set in of the smoke trails, the music we do that industry is fortunate. The Cana- through the air. our routine to, and the flying are all dian Armed Forces have a base in amazing to experience.” Comox, a unit in Pat Bay and a naval explained. “In Moose Jaw, we spend Logan was looking forward to base in Esquimalt.” time in looser formations and then coming back to the island for train- Representing the Canadian get tighter as we get more comfort- ing. Forces is something that brings able with our references. We get to “Vancouver Island is the Squad- Logan great satisfaction. a point where we can fly with six- to ron’s second home. We love going “I love visiting the small towns” eight-foot spacing between wings. to Comox; it’s valuable training for us he said. “One year in Killam, Al- Sometimes we fly with four feet of and we love the community.” berta, the whole town shut down overlap—that’s when the outboard The Snowbirds’ schedule is subject to watch us and we were able to wing of one aircraft will be only four to change due to COVID-19. Please meet the town’s people and have a feet from the inboard wing of the google Snowbirds 2021 schedule for barbecue with them. Some people other aircraft. You do a lot of training current dates and places you can see never get to meet a member of and trust building.” them perform. their military. It’s an honour to show The result is a show like no other.

July/August 2021 | 27 | pacificcoastal.com July/August 2021 | 28 | pacificcoastal.com July/August 2021 | 29 | pacificcoastal.com MASSET PRINCE GEORGE ALBERTA BRITISH COLUMBIA

Haida Gwaii ANAHIM LAKE

BELLA COOLA WILLIAMS LAKE BELLA BELLA

Hakai Pass

Broughton Archipelago

PORT HARDY KAMLOOPS

CAMPBELL RIVER KELOWNA

POWELL RIVER COMOX CRANBROOK PENTICTON

CANADA TOFINO VANCOUVER SOUTH TERMINAL TRAIL

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA VICTORIA WASHINGTON

MAIN PACIFIC COASTAL HUB

AIRPORTS

PACIFIC COASTAL ROUTES

July/August 2021 | 30 | pacificcoastal.com