Haida Gwaii Trip Planning Guide OURS BEGINS

WHEN YOU’VE REACHED THE EDGE OF YOUR WORLD, HAiDa GWaii TRip PLanniNg GUiDe OURS BEGINS.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 37 HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE WELCOME TO HAIDA GWAII

aida Gwaii is a treasure. The wild beauty strikes months to a year lead time. Accommodation varies from deep in visitors and residents alike - come here with rustic "off the grid" cabins to modern lodges and re- Hcuriosity and respect – you will always be welcomed treats, as well as camping in old growth or on the beach. back to the edge of the world. All accommodation is small scale and intimate and every time you book you are talking to an owner who cares We hope this guide will make planning your trip easy. about the quality of your experience. One way to think of Haida Gwaii, is as a village of 4,200, hardy, unique characters who live in seven neighbour- There are no chain stores, fast food franchises or large hoods spread up and down the islands. The ocean and hotels on the islands. Here we live at a pace that is rich the forest are our larder, the ferries our connection to with unique experiences. Winter is the social season, the mainland, and the ferry lineup is where we socialize full of concerts, artisan fairs and coffee houses. We re- and politic – with coffee cup in hand. connect, regroup, and plan for high-season tourism in the summer, but love to see visitors all year long. For a trip to remember, book your accommodation, excursions and travel well in advance, we recommend six

SANDSPIT VISITOR CENTRE QUEEN CHARLOTTE VISITOR CENTRE

The Sandspit Visitor Centre is located inside the Sand- The Centre is located in heart of Daajing Giids Queen spit Airport. The staff members have firsthand informa- Charlotte and is part of the Destination BC Visitor tion about local amenities plus special events, like the Services Network. It is seven days a week throughout Moresby Market, Loggers Sports Day and the Sandspit the summer, and has special hours during the off-season Wild Harvest Festival. The Centre also carries work - contact the Centre for specific hours. The Centre also by local artisans and merchandise with a Haida Gwaii carries work by local artisans and merchandise with theme. Ask us about the world-renowned Gwaii Haanas a Haida Gwaii theme. Surrounding the Centre is an Haida Heritage Site, National Park Reserve, and Nation interpretive garden and picnic area to relax and take Marine Conservation Area. The Centre is part of the in the fresh air. Destination BC Visitor Services Network. 250-559-8316 250-637-5362 • Airport, K'il Kun Sandspit 3220 Wharf Way, Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte lovehaidagwaii.com/the-sandspit-visitor-centre queencharlottevisitorcentre.com

PORT CLEMENTS MUSEUM & NORTHERN HAIDA GWAII VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE INFORMATION CENTRE

Visitors to Haida Gwaii must stop at the Port Clements The Village of Masset operates the Northern Haida Museum. The museum is run by the Port Clements His- Gwaii Visitor Information Centre which is located at torical Society, made up entirely of volunteers who have Mile 0 of the Yellowhead Highway. The Centre is open a passion for preserving and sharing Gamadiis’ unique daily from 9 a.m to 5 p.m., from mid-June through history. Guests are invited to take an interpretive tour mid-September. Stop in and find local art and mer- or browse the displays on their own. The Port Clements chandise, enjoy free Wi-Fi access, a public washroom, Museum is open daily June to September from 10:00 and a telephone access. a.m. to 4:00 p.m. During the rest of the year it is open Saturdays and Sundays, 2:00 - 4:00 p.m. 250-557-4576 250-626-3982 545 Bayview Drive, Gamadiis Port Clements "Mile 0" Highway 16, Masset lovehaidagwaii.com/port-clements-museum massetbc.com

38 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE

ARRIVING BY AIR Air service is available daily from Vancouver and Prince Rupert. For schedules and fares please check with the following carriers. • AIR CANADA Vancouver (YVR) to K'il Kun Sandspit (YZP) • PACIFIC COASTAL AIRLINES Vancouver Airport, South Terminal (YVR) to Masset (ZMT). • INLAND AIR Kxeen Prince Rupert to Masset. ARRIVING BY WATER

BC FERRIES provides regular scheduled sailings from Prince Rupert, year-round. Connector service is available in Prince Rupert to the Inside Passage route, to or from, Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, or north, with Alaska's ferry system. Arrive at terminals two hours in advance. Check for current conditions and changes in schedule at bcferries.com. Many of the communities have marinas, boat ramps and services for recreational boaters. For the small craft harbour in Sandspit K'il Kun, call 250.637.5700; for Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte call 250-559-4650; for Gamadiis Port Clements, call 250-557-4295 and for Masset, call 250-626- 3995.

ON ISLAND VEHICLE RENTALS

K'IL KUN SANDSPIT: Budget Car Rentals 250-637-5688 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE: The Long House Gift Shop (National Car Rentals) 250-626-3833 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE: Budget Car & Truck Rentals 250-559-4641 Island Auto Rentals at 250-559-4118 Haida Gwaii Vehicle & RV Rentals at 250-637-1202 MASSET: National Car Rentals 250-626-3833 • Rustic Car Rentals at 250-626-3756 TAXIS

HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE & DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE: Gwaii Taxi & Tours 250-559-2380 or cell 250-637-1162 MASSET & NORTHERN HAIDA GWAII: Mile Zero Taxi service 250-626-7971 BIKE & SCOOTER RENTALS

MASSET: Masset Bikes 250-626-8939 • North Beach Surf Shop 250-626-7873 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT: Sandspit Visitor Centre 250-637-5362 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE: Echo Bay Lodge 250-637-1758 • Green Coast Kayaking 250-637-1093 Homegrown Adventures 778-488-0555 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE: Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals 250-640-6474

GoHaidaGwaii.ca 39 HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Should I get travel insurance? How safe is it to bike around the Islands? Travel insurance and/or trip cancellation insurance is rec- Cycling is a great way to experience Haida Gwaii, either ommended. Transportation to the Islands and tours on on the paved highway or gravel backroads. Most drivers Haida Gwaii can be postponed or cancelled due to weather are courteous, aware of cyclists and will give you wide and sea conditions. This applies year-round. berth. Road and touring bikes are fine on the highway, Are there public transit buses on island? but if you are going off-road a more robust bike is recommended. If you are venturing into the backcountry, check There is no public transportation on-Island but most com- road conditions and logging activity at a local visitor cen- munities have taxi service. tre before you head off. Are all roads on Haida Gwaii passable for a Is it necessary to book tours in advance or camper? A small vehicle? Are there unpaved is it easy to book them when we arrive (e.g. roads? excursions to Gwaii Haanas National Park Re- There is about 140 km of paved highway on the Islands serve, Haida Heritage Site, Naikoon Provincial and an extensive network of unpaved roads; some suit- Park, etc)? able for a camper-van over short distances, and some All tours, especially to Gwaii Haanas, should be booked not. Please enquire locally at a visitor centre or the in advance. Naikoon Park does not take bookings as the Forests, Lands, and Natural Resource Operations (FL- campgrounds at Tll.aal Tlell and Agate Beach are on first NRO) office - call 250-559-6200 or see the website come, first served basis. See page 77-79 for more infor- https://www.for.gov.bc.ca/dqc in Daajing Giids Queen mation. Charlotte on the state of the roads and logging activity. I would like to go to Gwaii Haanas, how can I Is it OK to drive my vehicle on the beach? get there? All visitors are advised to keep their vehicles off the beach- There is no road access to Gwaii Haanas. The only es. Every year, vehicles get stuck out in the sand and are way to access the park is by float-plane or boat. See irreparably damaged by the incoming tide. Irresponsible page 77-79 for more information. For a list of licensed driving also causes damage to the sensitive beach environ- tour operators, including float-plane service, go to: ment, river crossings, clam beds and more. Better to explore https://www pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/visit the beach with your feet or by bicycle. Additionally, rental companies will not allow you to drive their vehicles on the beaches. Make sure you check and abide by those direc- tives, because there could be expensive fines if you forget.

EMERGENCY SERVICES Gaw Tlagee Gamadiis/Tll.aal HlGaagilda Skidegate K'il Kun Masset/North End Port Clements/Tlell Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte Sandspit 1-800-461-9911 AMBULANCE 250-626-3991 250-626-3991 250-559-4421 250-559-4421 NORTH END RCMP NORTH END RCMP SOUTH END RCMP SOUTH END RCMP 250-626-5511 250-557-4450 250-559-4488 250-637-2222 Masset Fire Port Clements Fire Queen Charlotte Fire Sandspit Fire 250-626-5222 250-557-4439 250-559-8300 Old Massett Fire Tlell Fire Skidegate Fire 1-800-663-5555 REPORT A FOREST FIRE 1-877-952-7277 (RAPP) REPORT ALL POACHERS & POLLUTERS Marine VHF Channel 16 or 1-250-363-2333 CANADIAN COAST GUARD

40 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED TRAVELLING ON LOGGING ROADS

urn your lights on! Day or night, the more visible you are, the better your chances of avoiding trouble. Use your headlights at all times. For- Test roads are not built to the same standards as public highways. For example, they often have sharp, blind corners and narrow sections. All drivers must be prepared to react to unexpected conditions and to be able to stop safely. For your own sake, stay alert and always be ready to take evasive action. Industrial activities on these roads are always changing - expect the unexpected. Remember, dust means traffic.

Logging trucks use all or most of the road width because of their size. Due to their size, they just can’t manoeuvre the way personal vehicles can. Please give logging trucks and other industrial traffic the right-of-way. Loaded logging trucks definitely have the “right-of-weight”! When you see a logging truck or any other heavy equipment coming, get to a turnout and let the oncoming vehicle pass by. You may find turnouts on either side of the road — whichever side it’s on, get to it and wait until it is safe to proceed. Before you go, let someone know where you’re heading and when you expect to return. If you do get lost or stranded, stay with your vehicle! It will provide shelter until help arrives, and generally, rescuers can find it more quickly than they can an individual in the woods. Forest road users must be prepared for emergencies; there are no hospitals, restaurants, telephone booths or gas stations nearby. Be sure to take the following:

• Emergency food and water • Extra fuel/fire extinguisher/axe

• Navigational/communication aids • First aid kit/warm clothing/ (maps, compass, charts, and fully sleeping bags charged GPS, cellular or satellite phone, VHS or hand-held radio, • A tool kit/shovel/tire emergency battery chargers) repair kit

A WORD ABOUT MOBILE DEVICE ACCESS ON HAIDA GWAII

obile device coverage on Haida Gwaii is good in some locations and “iffy” in others. You can pick up a reliable signal in the area around Xaana MKaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet – Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, K'il Kun Sandspit – and up coast to about Gandll SkahlGaal St. Mary’s Spring. After that your bars drop rapidly.

Further north there are a couple of spots where texts can be picked up but the next most reliable spot is at the end of Wiggins Road in Tll.aal Tlell. Your phone will chirp again at Gamadiis Port Clements and then just south of Masset. Service in the area around the entrance of Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet is reliable, but as you head out to North Beach, service thins out. Check out the centerfold map for locations, and remember, the back-country is a signal-free area – enjoy!

GoHaidaGwaii.ca 41 HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE Photo— Guy Kimola

ACCESSIBLE ATTRACTIONS

aida Gwaii cannot yet be designated as wheelchair-friendly, but communities are working toward that goal. HThere are a number of attractions and activities that are accessible to people with limited mobility. • Hl'yaalang Waagusd North Beach area offers easy • Installed in spring of 2019, a new beach-access mobil- access to the beach with parking immediately beside ity mat is now installed on the beach at Misty Mead- the beach. The beach might prove challenging as the ows Campground in Tll.aal Tlell. This mat is designed ground is often soft depending on wind and tides. The to float above the sand and give a firm surface to move area has many places to sit and enjoy the surf in close a wheelchair along. proximity to a parked vehicle. Washroom at the Hiellen campground: • The coastal ocean-side drive from Tll.aal Tlell to Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte features gor- • Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole at Hl'yaalang Waagusd and geous views of the open ocean from the roadside. a tour of the monumental poles in Gaw Tlagee Old At Halibut Bight rest stop: Massett is an enjoyable and easily navigable north island tour. The monumental poles in Gaw Tlagee can • Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre and be viewed from the roadside, and the Kwahtsiisda is a Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum at Kay Llnagaay 20-minute walk (each way) via a wheelchair-accessible were designed to be wheelchair-accessible. Although boardwalk from a parking lot. At the trailhead: the inside of the centre is accessible, the outside area where the monumental pole tours are conducted has • In Masset, the Daal Kaahlii Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary proven difficult to some due to the gravel covering. and Nature Centre are also wheelchair-accessible to Tours at the Centre include the monumental pole, Gyaa some degree. The centre and bird-watching tower next K’id Naay carving house, Haida canoe and weaving to it are easily accessible via the walk and drive along tours. Cemetery Road. • The Queen Charlotte sea walk is located in central • An easy pathway runs from the Port Clements Museum Dajing Giids Queen Charlotte. It provides a stunning to the waterfront at Sunset Park in Gamadiis Port Cle- view of Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet and ments. The level gravel trail was designed to be wheel- Queen Charlotte Harbour at the Visitor Centre, the chair accessible but it can be challenging at times if Queen Charlotte Community Centre. Washrooms the chair tires are narrow. The 6 km, 1 hour (one way) available at the Vancouver Island Regional Library path leads to a bird-watching tower that is wheelchair Queen Charlotte branch library: accessible up to the first level. • In spring/summer 2020, wheelchair accessible • Gamadiis Port Clements has also improved the Kiid boardwalk is being installed at the Louise Dover trail K'iiyaas K'yuu Golden Spruce Trail to make it wheel- in K'il Kun Sandspit. This will allow level access for the chair-accessible. The trail takes about 20 minutes to walk first 150m of the trail, leading to a viewing platform each way. This is an inspiring old-growth rainforest trail. and information site. Washroom at the trailhead:

42 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE Photo— Gregory Gould

SAMPLE ISLAND ITINERARY DAY 1 DAY 4 Welcome to Masset. Grab a hot coffee, check out local On the road to the south end to explore Tll.aal and the artisans and galleries, take a stroll around Daal Kaahlii artisan shops and galleries on Wiggins Road; hike out to Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary. Pick up a rental car and the Pesuta shipwreck (10 km, 4 hour round trip) or take groceries in town. Check in for a couple of nights at a the Anvil Trail loop (5 km, 2 hour loop). Stop for lunch and cozy place in town or a B&B situated along Hl'yaalang then head down to HlGaagilda Skidegate. Watch for kun Waagusd North Beach. Head out to Taaw Tlldawee Tow Grey whales along KandaliiGwii Hecate Strait. Check out Hill (30 minute drive). Spend the afternoon acclimatizing HlGaa K'aayhllna Balance Rock and the artisan galleries of to a slower pace – sink your feet into the sand and HlGaagilda. Spend a night in the village or check out the consider your next few days. great options in Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte. DAY 2 DAY 5 Explore Taaw Tlldawee and Hl'yaalang Waagusd. In the Gwaii Haanas exploration day! Take a Zodiac boat day morning, climb Taaw and enjoy unparalleled views of tour with a local tour company. Soak in the re-opened Siigee Dixon Entrance. Have a picnic lunch and then head hotsprings, meet the Haida Watchmen and learn about back to Masset; grab a coffee and spend the afternoon the poles at K’uuna Llnagaay. If you’re lucky you’ll see a exploring local galleries and shops. Tour Gaw Tlagee Old variety of whales and of course many different types of Massett and watch for the gyaa'aang monumental poles sea and songbirds. situated throughout the village, stop by the Haida art and gift shops. Take dinner at one of the local options DAY 6 and then back out to the beach to enjoy a lingering Explore HlGaagilda Skidegate and Daajing Giids Queen sunset. Spend a night or two at a B&B, walk out onto the Charlotte. Visit the beautiful Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii beach and look at the stars or enjoy the rain on the roof. Museum. Browse the shops of Daajing Giids and meet with locals at one of the cafés, or for a change of pace, DAY 3 hike up Kuu Jad TlldaGaaw k'yuu Sleeping Beauty trail Drive to Gamadiis Port Clements (1/2 hour). Pick up some and take in the 360 degree view from the top. Given the groceries and spend the night in the village. Explore the new ferry schedule you can even take off for an after- Port Clements Museum and walk on the Rainbow Wharf noon in K'il Kun Sandspit — walk the Louise Dover Trail, for incredible views of the inlet and west coast moun- check out the new mural art at SuperValu and consider tains. Drive out to the Kiid K'iiyaas K'yuu Golden Spruce spending the night at a B&B. Trail (four kilometres from town, on a gravel road). The trail is just 20-minutes long and features large monu- DAY 7 mental ts'uu red cedar and Kiid Sitka spruce. It is a real- Prepare for your departure. Think about all the places ly lovely walk along the Yaaguun Gandlee Yakoun River. that you weren’t able to get to and make plans to return Head to Tll.aal Tlell for dinner and a walk along the Tll.aal to Haida Gwaii. Our winter season here is a whole other Gandlaay Tlell River. experience – watch waves pound the shore, try surfing and kite surfing or enjoy a day in front of a wood stove by the window, with a good book while an impressive storm blows away outside.

GoHaidaGwaii.ca 43 HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE

UNDERSTANDING THE TIDES

idal currents occur in conjunction with the rise and TIDES IN HAIDA GWAII fall of the tide. The vertical motion of the tides near K’IIS GWAAY Compared to predictions for Prince Rupert the shore causes the water to move horizontally, Langara Point HL'YAALANG T 10 min early MASSET 20 min late WAAGUSD creating currents. When a tidal current moves toward North Beach 5 min early the land and away from the sea, it “floods.” When it moves toward the sea away from the land, it “ebbs.”

Tide tables are essential for exploring the beaches of GAWÉE SDAA GAW KAAHLII Masset Inlet Haida Gwaii. We have extreme tides here, up to 7.3 metre Alexandra Narrows Flood starts 2:50 after low Flood starts 0:15 after low (24 foot) tidal variation. Booklets are published annually Ebb starts 0:10 after hight Ebb starts 2:30 after high by the Canadian Hydrographic Service and they provide GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS instructions on the use of tables to determine daily tides Low 3:05 later High 2:50 later (time and height) for specific locations.

JUUS KAAHLII Juskatla For Haida Gwaii you should have: Low 5:15 later High 4:45 later SK’IILUU • Canadian Tide & Current Tables Volume 7: KAAHLII “Queen Charlotte Sound to Dixon Entrance” Nesto Inlet 10 min early QUEEN CHARLOTTE DAAJING GIIDS or go to waterlevels.gc.ca or tides.gc.ca Low 20 min later High same as Prince Rupert Tide tables provide information on the time and height SKAATS’INSII of the tide. It’s important to remember there are factors Dawson Harbour 15 min early that can increase the effects of the tides, such as your KUUGAHL location and storms. DAA.ULGAAY McCoy Cove Skidegate Narrows Low 15 min later (Floods west) High 5 min later Learn to read tide tables before traveling along the West Beacon Flood starts 3:20-3:50 after low K’YAL GAWGA beach. Rogue or sneaker waves can appear at any time Ebb starts 3:00-3:30 after high Pacofi and on any beach. East Beacon Low 10 min later Flood starts 1:50-2:50 after low High same as Prince Ebb starts 1:30-2:30 after high Rupert Rip tides can form on any beach with surf. They are often found near jetties or between sand bars. If you are TAA SUU GWAAY K’AAS Tasu Sound East Copper caught in a current that pulls you quickly from shore, 20 min early Island Same as swim parallel to the beach to break out of it. Prince Rupert

Estimated using predictions from the Canadian Hydrographic Ser- vice. Estimates are unofficial and may vary significantly from reality. Use with caution.

From Haida Fisheries Program / GANGXID KUN Crawford Ecological Consulting Cape St. James Low 10 min early High 5 min early

44 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE

TSUNAMIS & EVACUATIONS

tsunami is a natural hazard consisting of a series of When disaster hits, there won’t be time to buy emergency long, surge-like waves generated when a large volume supplies. Ensure you have emergency kits for your home, Aof ocean water is rapidly displaced. Most tsunamis are workplace and vehicle. They should all contain food, water caused by major subduction earthquakes, where there is and supplies for a minimum of 72 hours. A week or longer significant displacement of the ocean floor. Tsunami waves is better. Information on building these kits can be found contain considerable energy; they can travel rapidly further here at emergencygov.bc.ca/PreparedBC. Do not return to inland compared to ordinary coastal waves. A tsunami may low lying areas to gather your belongings. People should not look like a wave at all, but will have very strong currents wait until they get notification that the tsunami warning under its surface. has been lifted or as instructed by emergency officials be- Tsunami are a challenging hazard to respond to. The arrival fore returning to low-lying areas. time of the wave generated far out at sea can be predicted fairly accurately, however, the intensity of the wave when it TSUNAMI SIRENS reaches shore is more difficult to predict, particularly in real Tsunami sirens are located in the communities of Daajing time during an event. Giids Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, Masset and While a distant tsunami will likely allow time for an official Gaw Tlagee Old Massett. The warnings sound like an air- tsunami warning to be given, a local tsunami can reach the raid siren. shoreline in minutes and may NOT allow for an official warning to take place. Every Tuesday at 7pm, the Village of Masset tests their emergency sirens; the fire department call-out warning is EVACUATION NOTIFICATIONS first, and the tsunami warning siren is second. The Village If you are near the coast and feel a major earthquake mak- of Queen Charlotte and HlGaagilda test their sirens every ing it difficult to stand, you must “Drop, Cover, and Hold third Thursday in October on “Shake Out BC” day. Please On" and then evacuate to higher ground immediately with see shakeoutbc.ca for more information on this province- your 72hr emergency kit. High ground is considered any- wide earthquake drill day. thing over 10metres above the high-water mark. If you are unfamiliar with the area, ask your accommodation provider ON HAIDA GWAII, EMERGENCY NOTIFICATION CAN BE: about evacuation spots and muster points. In late 2018, BC • If you feel a prolonged earthquake large enough to Hydro poles were painted with blue arrows to indicate the make standing difficult path to evacuation areas. • Tsunami Siren If a tsunami threat (or any other emergency such as flooding or wildfires) is identified, authorities will notify the • Continuous vehicle horns or police/fire sirens public via Environment Canada EC Alert, VHF 16, broadcast • AlertReady: all LTE cell phones, radio, TV media, and direct to all LTE cell phones through AlertReady • EC Alert — the BC Emergency Alerting System — in the impacted area. The Haida Gwaii Emergency Management system will • ePACT call out: SMS, phone, email (only if registered also send alerts via SMS, phone, email to those that have at epactnetwork.com/en/signup/haidagwaiialerts) registered with the ePACT service epactnetwork.com/en/ • VHF 16 signup/haidagwaiialerts. • If you feel an earthquake you can check the Pacific Tsunami Notification Centre website for real-time warnings: ptwc.weather.gov

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GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT SIIGEE Dixon Entrance Hlkyaan k’ust’aan K’yuuwaas

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n recent history Gaw Tlagee the land around Haida master carvers continue to fill Gaw will provide a glimpse into the diverse medi- IMasset inlet was a busy metropolitan trad- Tlagee’s skies with gyaa'ang monumen- ums Haida have mastered. ing centre, crowded with canoe traffic. A rich tal columns, as they have since the arrival natural ecosystem supported 11 Haida village of kaaydaay trees up to 14,500 years ago. sites found in and around Gaw Tlagee. Please show respect to these living community members. Today the village of Gaw Tlagee sprawls across three of these, including Gad Gaywáas Visitors also will find the village filled with at its north end, Ts’ágwaals towards its woven, painted, carved, engraved, and ham- centre, and K’áayang towards its south. mered masterpieces. A stop at a gift shop MASSET To TAAW Tow Hill Masset Airport Sanctuary Walking Path Penna Rd CEMETERY DR

N Daal Kaahlii Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary

TOW HILL RD Northern Haida TRUMPETER DR Gwaii Hospital Pintail Cres & Health Centre, Teal Cres Brant Cres Pharmacy NORTHWEST DR Swan Cres Dogwood Cres Cedar Cres Balsam PARK DR Cres Alder Cres To Gaw Tahayghan Elm Cres Fir Cres McBride St Old Massett Elementary GTNS Charles St Tahayghen Dr Hemlock Cres High School Mallard St BURGESS AVE Spruce Cres HODGES AVE Maple Cres Old Beach Rd Pine Cres Wilson St Masset Harbour Orr St COLLISON AVE Masset VIC Dixon Entrance CHRISTIE ST MAIN ST McLeod St Maritime Museum McDonald St

Cook St DELKATLA ST Millard St HARRISON AVE Wallace St GAW KAAHLII Massett Inlet To TLAGA GAWTLAAS Masset YELLOWHEAD New Town 16 GAMADIIS Masset Wharf Sea Plane Port Clements Base

ust uptown you will find the relatively You will find a visitor centre, hardware, elec- Depending on the season and the day, you Jyoung community of Masset, which trac- tronics, groceries, adventure-gear, marine may be in for some incredible bird watching. es its name to a similar origin as Old Massett. sports equipment, credit union, gas station, Daal Kaahlii offers you the chance to see Registered in 1907, Masset's roots lie primar- repair-shop, restaurants, hotels, library, post some rarer species and perhaps even catch ily in fishing, logging and the military. The office, coffee shop and B&B’s. Masset Airport some once-in-a-lifetime phenomena. Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum will open is a quick five-minute drive north. a window into Masset's maritime roots. All Right behind Masset is Daal Kaahlii Delkatla. kinds of vessels arrive and depart from Mas- You can encircle its leisurely 5.6-kilometre set Harbour, including local fishing charters. trail and roadway in about 45 minutes.

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SGANGAN ANDLEE GANDLEE Sangan River Sangan Dr

ANDLEE

G Naikoon Ave ANDLEE K'YUU TSAAWAN G G ANDLEE HL'YAALAN 'LNGEE IDLII HL’YAALAN TOW HILL RD Chown River SG White Creek Hiellen Longhouse HL'YAALAN G GALGUUSD IDLII Village Hiellen River Limberlost Ave TOW HILL RD Agate Beach SG Campground White Creek trail TugwaalBeach Keyhole Access To Masset YAAGUN Eagle Road Yakan Point (IR) TAAW Tow Hill Community CFB Masset Tow Hill Kiosk & Beach Access Beach Access N Ops/Skonun Point“Elephant Cage” SIIGEE Dixon Entrance

HL'YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH & HL’YAALANG HIELLEN Gaanuwee Supernatural Beings inhabit You will find Hl’yaalang village on the east- You will find numerous cabins and campsites Sall corners of Haida Gwaii. You can find ern bank of Hl’yaalang Gandlee. K'iygang the in the area, plus gift shops and a coffee bus. many of them very easily. Just a half-hour Haida canon of oral histories confirm, this Every year a few visitors lose their vehicles drive east from Masset you will find Taaw village is one of the many villages existing during a drive on the beach, to the annoy- Tlldawee Tow Hill. You can drive a gravel below and above it, where SGaanuwee live. ance and at times amusement of Islands res- road through old-growth forests, then Sprawling sandy and stony beaches, old- idents. Don’t risk being “that guy”. Do not follow a boardwalk to Taaw’s foot. With a growth forests and diverse bog ecosystems take rental vehicles out on the beach, and do flooding tide and strong swell you will see characterize the surrounding area. In our not drive above the high tide mark or on sen- Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole throwing sea physical realm, many neighbouring villages sitive razor clams beds. Be respectful of the spray high into the air. concentrated along this coastline. environment you are in.

drive 35 minutes south up Gaw Kaahlii To Masset Ryland Rd AMassett Inlet will carry visitors through Nyeholt Rd bogs and cedar forests, past Gantl’ Gadaas Industrial Park Rd To Tll.aal Pure Lake to Gamadiis Port Clements. This Tlell Grouse St is one of seven village sites that flourished around Yaagun Kaahlii Stl’ang, an estuary at YELLOWHEAD 16 the mouth of Yaagun Gandlee Yakoun River to HIGHWAY 16 the west. With Gámdas Gandlee to its east, Jasper St Froese Sub Cedar Ave E the modern village of Gamadiis lives among abundant natural ecological wealth.

Water St Dyson St Port Clements The modern village at Gamadiis was founded Museum & in 1907 under the name Queenstown. Res- N Info Centre idents later changed the name to Port Cle- BAYVIEW DR ments in 1914. You will find a grocery store, Boat hostel, restaurant and bar, gas station, post Harbour Village Office Port Clements office, library and docks. Some residents also Community Park St Park St Park maintain businesses in adventure tourism, Hemlock St including kayaking and fishing outfits. Be Tingley St certain to stop at the Port Clements Museum Spruce St to see a terrific collection of objects that de- Yakoun St Sunset Park RV & Campground fined Haida Gwaii’s recent history. Cedar Ave W Hemlock St To: Rainbow K ’iid K’iyaas (on pavement) On the west side of town you will find RV and Wharf BAYVIEW DR Gravel walking path Golden Spruce trail (on active logging roads) camping sites at Sunset Park, a two-kilometre trail along berry-filled waterfront, and AlderWilliams Ave St BAYVIEW DR a walk through old-growth at Kiid K’iiyaas K’yuu Golden Spruce Trail. The gravel road GAW KAAHLII Masset Inlet Sunset Park Trail leading west out of Gamadiis turns south to a vast network of logging roads. These roads will lead you to Chaahluu Kaahlii Ren- nell Sound and Yaagun Yakoun Lake. It can be easy to get lost! It is recommended to always have accurate maps, proper emergency gear GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS and a VHF radio tuned to the signposted fre- quencies.

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TLL.AAL TLELL

brisk 20-minute drive south Beach Access KANDALIIGWII from Gamadiis Port Clements Pesuta / East Beach trailhead Hecate Strait Awill bring you to Tll.aal Tlell. Beitush Rd Tll.aal Gandlaay the Tlell River winds To Gamadiis Port Clements Andrews Place Rd over 55 kilometres inland. Salmon return to spawn and support residents, just as they did when the site was a Misty Meadows Campground N bustling Haida village, several thousand years old. Several daa.a house founda- Naikoon Park Headquarters tions are only around 150 years old; a Tlell testament to the area’s natural wealth. Fall Fair Grounds These houses were classic monumen- HIGHWAY 16 tal cedar structures. In summer, Haida gathered in the area before departing for the mainland in canoe armadas. TLL.AAL GANDLAAY Tlell River YELLOWHEAD 16 Today gorgeous shorelines, old-growth forests, rich rivers and beautiful birds draw beachcombers, hikers, fishers and birders alike. More serious hikers can access East Beach Trail on Richardson Tll.aal Gandlaay’s north shore. You can Ranch Vet Richardson Rd Clinic & also settle for the day hike through Feed store old growth to the sand dunes and along the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail. As well, the Anvil Trail will take you through the flourishing rainforest along Tll.aal Gandlaay’s southern banks. Wiggins Rd Hungry hikers can enjoy fine dining at a restaurant and bar along Tll.aal Gandlaay. Sleepy ones can rest at a lodge resort, some divine glamping options, choose from several bed and Anvil trail breakfasts, or settle in at the Misty Meadows provincial campground. The next morning the local coffee house will Tlell Fire Hall & Tlell Farmer's get you started off right. To remember Market your adventures, a few artisan stores and studios accessed off of Wiggins road will connect you with talented local artists. Brandt Rd To HlGaagilda Skidegate Photo: Guy Kimola

52 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE

HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE K'yuu K'uu7an K'yuu Huudjuu

Sk'aadgaa Naay Elementary School T'iis K'yuu

Sdal K'iiwaay

Council of the K'yuu Xaa7ans Hlt'alga K'yuu Balance Rock Rd Haida Nation aa Hlt'alga K'yuu Skidegate HlG Office K'aayhlina K'iiwaay St'aajuu K'yuu YELLOWHEAD GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu andll K'aadllgas K'yuu Sdaala K'iiwaay HIGHWAY 16 G Guulaay K'iiwaay 16 Spirit Lake trail SGiidagids K'iiwaay Xuuya K'yuu aa K'iiwaay Stlaay K'yuu HlGaa K’aayhllnga uud K'yuu G K'ang K'ihl K'yuu Balance Rock litl'xid K'iiwaay uudang.aay 'Laa HlG G HlGaagilda K'iiwaay Front St SHIP Building

T'am Gandlaay K'yuu Skidegate Small Hall Taana Naay K'yuu

KANDALIIGWII Hecate Strait

N 'Laana Xaajuuwaay K'yuu To Daajing Giids waas K'yuu Queen Charlotte K'aaG ud G HIGHWAY 16 SGAAY.YAS Haida Heritage Centre, Jewell Island Gwaii Haanas Offices, Haida Gwaii Museum

isitors arriving at GuhlGa Llnagaay the inlet’s beautiful swimming beaches, You will also find comfortable Skidegate Landing can drive four but please show respect to this SGaana accommodations, a grocery store, gas Vminutes north to get to HlGaagilda Supernatural Being. station, galleries, coffee house and stores Skidegate. The village’s primary Haida To explore the woods you can hike on HlGaagilda. name means “Place of Stone”. The mod- GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake KAY LLNAGAAY ern village stretches across four separate Trail, right behind HlGaagilda. A carved village sites including K’uust’an Xaana to cedar panel and longhouse shelter mark From HlGaagilda you can drive two minutes the north, HlGaagilda towards its centre, the trailhead across from the George south to Kay Llnagaay. Haida have lived at and ‘Laana Xaajuuwaay and HlGaaxid Brown Recreation Centre, which will lead Kay for millennia. Today it is home to the at its south. Haida history here reaches you on a 45 minutes to 1.5 hour walk Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage back to the late glacial age, when ice through a diversity of forest habitats. Centre and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii sculpted the hills and eskers now hid- Hikers will likely see some of Haida Museum, which safeguard a world-class den beneath thick rainforests. You can Gwaii’s mammalian, amphibian, avian and collection of Haida objects. see the clearest signs of these vanishing myxogastrian inhabitants. beings along the coasts where they left Another minute drive along the highway trails of boulders, called moraine depos- Just as in Gaw Tlagee, Haida have will bring you to the BC Ferries terminal at its, behind. filled HlGaagilda with carved cedar GuhlGa Llnagaay Skidegate Landing, from monuments, which you will see which visitors can reach K'il Kun Sandspit HlGaa K’aayhllnga Balance Rock throughout town. Please admire these and Kxeen Prince Rupert. represents one of these boulders, living community members respectfully. delicately set in place by a powerful glacier. Visitors are welcome to explore

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DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE To HlGaagilda Skidegate

3rd Ave Haida Gwaii Hospital & OCEANVIEW DR Pharmacy

1st St Queen 2nd Ave Charlotte Wharf Way Visitor Causeway Centre

2nd Ave Main Wharf 2nd St

3rd St 3rd Ave 2nd Ave 4th St Bay St

NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu 5th St Gore Brook Trail 6th St OCEANVIEW DR

2nd Ave XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAY GidGalang Skidegate Inlet Kuuyas 8th St Naay

7th St Gwaay Sgaaguuds 9th St Gooden Island

10th St 2nd Ave

3rd Ave Giiyang Gwaay Village Office Robertson Island To Haydn Turner Campground, N Rennell Sound

nother ten minutes south will laundry, public library, post office, the north shore of Tl’lnaa Stl’lng, the Abring you to Daajing Giids Queen convenience store, gas station and eastern end of TllGaduu GawGa Kagan Charlotte. The modern village spreads credit union. Bay. While visitors sometimes decide to across three Haida village sites, with To the village's eastern end, hikers can camp there, you should be aware that Daajing Giids towards its eastern access Regier Lake Trail via Forestry Hill. residents often use the area for late downtown centre, Kwahgawgid Llnagaay The trail leads you up the slopes behind night fires and to sight rifles in. farther up-inlet, and Xaana at its Daajing Giids to Regier Lake. A little far- western extremity. Daajing Giids is BACKROADS AND QUEEN ther west NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore CHARLOTTE MAINLINE just one of dozens of village sites that Brook Trail covers easier ground, looping proliferated in the rich and protected behind the village. You will find a trail- Towards the western end of Daajing waters of Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay head at the top of 8th Street. The trail Giids you can turn north to drive the Skidegate Inlet. exits behind "the Fishbowl", a cul-de-sac Queen Charlotte Mainline, which leads You can explore the many islands, coves, a little farther west. You can also walk to Yaagun Yakoun Lake and Chaahluu rivers and narrows by hiring charters through old-growth forests at Kaahlgwa Kaahlii Rennell Sound. QC Main will lead based out of the harbour at Kyahjuu Gandlaay K'yuu Crabapple Creek Trail. you into a network of logging roads GawGa Queen Charlotte Harbour or While exploring forests behind Daajing that are variously maintained. These are the boat launch at Chaana GangGaaw Giids, be certain to watch for trail mark- working logging roads, please check in Gandlaay Muncord Creek. You can get ers carefully! A whole network of "back- with Forest, Lands, Natural Resources on the water in kayaks or powerboats. yard trails" and deer paths can lead the Operations and Rural Development of- Float planes also fly out of Kyahjuu unfamiliar astray. fice. Visitors should bring a trusty map, GawGa should you prefer to skip the emergency gear, a properly tuned VHF Campsites are available at the western radio and some good sense. waves and get to your destination end of town at Haydn Turner Camp- by air. In Daajing Giids you will find a ground and Kagan Bay Recreational Site. hospital, visitor’s centre, grocery store, At the end of the gravel road, called restaurants, accommodations, camping, Honna Road, you can launch boats on 54 GoHaidaGwaii.ca HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNING GUIDE

K'IL KUN SANDSPIT

Sandspit Airport Sandspit Airport Loop Trail N

Radio Rd XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAY Skidegate Inlet Tacan Rd

BEACH RD Blaine Shaw Rd

Beban Rd Agnes L Mathers Christina Pl Elementary School School Rd

Dover Rd Mountain Ash Rd

Park Rd Spruce Rd

Spur Rd COPPER BAY MAINLINE

Louise Dover BEACH RD Trail To Gaats’iiGundaay Alliford Bay Ferry Sandspit Harbour To Diinal GawGa ALLIFORD BAY RD Gray Bay

he sunny village of K'il Kun Sandspit A drive south along gravel logging roads Tis one of the many dozens of village will bring you to ‘Laana GaayGaagings sites that flourished along the inlet’s Copper River Village, where Haida southern shore. Gorgeous beaches, still maintain a fishing village. Further mountain hikes, rivers and forests dis- south you will find popular campsites tinguish the surrounding country. Just at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay. With more on the west end of town you will find backroads navigation you will find the head of Haans Creek Trail, where K’aayxada TlldaGawaay Mount Moresby you can explore a little of this beauty. and neighbouring HlGuu K’aw.was TlldaGaaw Mosquito Mountain, both of In town you will find a boat launch, which have popular trails. The difficult restaurants, a grocery store, hotel, and remote climbs are well worth the library, airport, hostel, B&B's and the rewards at their peaks, where you can post office. A number of fishing and admire stunning views of Haida Gwaii’s adventure tourism outfits will get you eastern and western coasts. Always ready for your next adventure in Gwaii make sure to carry emergency gear Haanas. These outfits can drive you and use good sense when setting out along the network of logging roads to for these adventures. Photo: Flavien Mabit Gawu Kuns Moresby Camp, an important Haida historical site that is many thousands of years old. Many adventures into Gwaii Haanas start at the boat launch there.

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GWAAY HAANAS GIINAA.GA GYAAGANG.NGAAY DANG GYAAGANG.NGAAY GYAAXA GWAII HAANAS LEGACY POLE Monumental poles Raised at: Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Bay of Haida Gwaii Date raised: August 15, 2013 Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw fter the trees arrived in Xaayda Gwaay Haida Assistant carvers: Gwaai Edenshaw, John Brent Bennett and StllnGa Gwaii, SGaanuwee Supernatural Beings showed Tyler York Haida kuuniisii ancestors how to carve gyaa'aang Figures (bottom to top): K'aal, A Xuuajii, Five Good People Standing monumental poles. The Haida word for monumental pole Together, Nang Kilsdlaas, Kuuya is related to the word gyaa'aa stand up. After Haida GyaaGandal, 'WaasGo, Xaa, K'awkaa, Gina Ga Kyahts'as HlGunuhl, and carve, dance, and raise them, gyaaGang or gyaa'aang Ts'aag become living community members.

Gyaa'aang bring communities together and span generations. They remind people of a household's powerful TANG.GWAN OPEN OCEAN lineage, celebrate the wealth and provision of a genera- Date raised: 2014 Raised at: Sandspit K'il Kun tion, or honour the memory of an esteemed community Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy member. They can be said to be divided into three gen- Jones, Jason Goetzinger eral categories: gwaaygiiGang crest poles, 'waahlGahl gyaaGang or ‘waahl’ahl gyaa’aang potlatch poles, and saahlin gyaaGang or saahlang Xaad mortuary poles. While such events are rare, Haida and their coastal neighbours also raise gyaa'aang to ridicule a person for behaving shamefully.

Haida carvers bring countless other creations into existence, including interior house columns, smaller decorative pieces, model houses and poles. Haida carve gyaa'aang primarily with ts'uu Western red cedar, but sometimes use other materials such as argillite. They XAANA KAAHLII NGAAYSDLL also cast figures and poles in other material such NAAY GYAAGANGAAY as bronze, resin, silver and gold. Haida carvers most Raised at: Queen Charlotte Daajing Giids, at Xaaynangaa Naay Haida often bring their creations into our world for specific Gwaii Hospital purposes, to honour kuuniisii, someone's lineage, or Date raised: June 23, 2018 sGaanuwee. Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony You will find gyaaGang throughout Haida Gwaii. We en- Greene, Kuuhlanuu Billy Yovanovich, StllnGa Tyler York courage you to admire our living community members Figures (bottom to top): Taan and from a respectful distance. Western Doctor, SnaanGa, Nang Kilsdlaas, Weeping Infant, Laada’s Self-portrait, SGaaga, Ts’aag, tllga Kyahts’ii XaaydaGaay PLEASE NOTE: There may be inaccuracies in the descriptions and spellings in this section: GyaaGang.nGaay monumental poles. We encourage carvers and knowledge holders to contact the Communications Department of the Council of the Haida Nation to update this section: call 250-559-4468 or email [email protected]

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XUUYA RAVEN TS’AAHL Date raised: June 12, 2015 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Location: Queen Charlotte Daajing Location: Kay Llnagaay Giids at Kwahgawgid, Gidgalang Lead carver: Stlin’ll Garner Moody Kuuyas Naay Secondary School Figures (bottom to top): Ts’ing, K'aa Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Gwaay, Taan, Xuuya, Ts'aag Jones, Jason Goetzinger

TS'AAG EAGLE HLKINUL Date raised: June 12, 2015 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Location: Queen Charlotte Daajing Location: Kay Llnagaay Giids at Kwahgawgid, Gidgalang Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw Kuuyas Naay Secondary School Figures (bottom to top): ChaaGan Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Xuuajii, Hiilanga transforming into Jones, Jason Goetzinger human, St’aw, Ts'aag, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as with SGaana

HLGAAGILDA K’UUNA Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 Location: Kay Llnagaay Location: Kay Llnagaay Lead carver: Gaahyaa Norman Price Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, ts'il XaaydaGaay Sding, Ts'aag, Kaagan, sding SGaana, Maat, Xuuya, Kung Xuuya, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as with Taawla and Kwiiawah, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as

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T’AANUU WEEPING WOMAN OF Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 T’AANUU Location: Kay Llnagaay Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald Lead carver: Gaahyah Norman Price Sr Wilson Assistant carver: Vicky Moody Figures (bottom to top): SGaana, Xuuya, Guujii, K’aaxada, Ts'aag

SGANG GWAAY CHIEFTAINSHIP POLE TO Date raised: June 4-9, 2001 HONOUR MATRIARCH KII'ILJUUS BARB WILSON Location: Kay Llnagaay Lead carver: Laada Tim Bokyo Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald White, Eric Wilson Wilson Figures (bottom to top): Taan, Ts’ing, K’yaaluu, Ts'aag

GIDANSDA JIMMY WILSON STRONGMAN MEMORIAL Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate Sk’aadgaa Naay Elementary School Lead carver: Bert Wilson and Joe Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko Mander Assistant carver: Gordy Mills

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GIDANSDA PERCY WILLIAMS WIIGAANAD SID CROSBY MEMORIAL NAA ‘UUWANS Date raised: Summer 2017 Date raised: May 1, 2011 Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Location: K’uust’an Xaana 'Laana Gaahllnaas the Ball Field Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko and Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw Jason Goetzinger Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii holding SGaana, Xuuya, K’aaxada, Ts’aag, Daajing sgilgaay

GUD AD KIIGAWAAY XAAD XILAA GYAAHLAANG GYAAGANG.NGAAY GYAA’AANG BORN TOGETHER CLAN POLE MEDICINE STORY POLE Date raised: July 31, 2016 Date raised: May 18, 2009 Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate in Location: Masset in front K’aa’diya front of Dave’s Take-out Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital Lead carver: St’inll Garner Moody Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony White Greene, Laada Tim Boyko, StllnGa Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White and Tyler York T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White Apprentices: Jerome McDonald, Yaahl iiwaans Bryce Williams, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl SGwaansang Eugene Davidson, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White Finishing assistant: Tak'iitaayaa Corey Bulpitt

EAGLE AND BEAR MOTHER YAAHL RAVEN ENTRANCE MONUMENT Date raised: 1993 Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Date raised: June 21, 2010 the entrance to GuuhlGa Siiwaay Location: Masset at K’aa’diya K'yuu Spirit Lake trail Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital Lead carver: Dick Bellis Lead carver: Cooper Wilson

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GUUD EAGLE ENTRANCE GUUD AD YAAHL MONUMENTS MONUMENT Date raised: June 21, 2010 Date raised: June 21, 2010 Location: Tlaga Gawtlaas New Town Location: Masset at K’aa’diya Lead carvers: Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital Giits'anaagaas Todd White and Lead carver: Nang K'iida Leegas Ga'uu Derek White Jordon Seward

7IDANSUU MORRIS WHITE WIIAA CHIEF MATTHEWS POTLATCH MONUMENT Date raised: 2003 Date raised: 1995 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett in Old Massett front Tluu Xaada Naay Lead carver: Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart and skil qaat’la.aas Reg Davidson Kihlguulans Christian White Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek White, Laada Tim Boyko, Giits'anaagaas Todd White

KIHLGUULANS FAMILY CENTRE POLE GEOFFREY WHITE MEMORIAL Date raised: June 21, 2010 Date raised: 2006 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett in Old Massett front Tluu Xaada Naay Lead carver: Lead carver: Kihlguulans T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White Christian White Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White, T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bulpitt, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl sGwaansang Eugene Davidson Figures: The monument features a shark at the bottom. The t'aaw copper shields represent Geoffery White's siblings. A white raven sits atop the monument.

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SKILAY MEMORIAL HEALTH CENTRE MONUMENT Date raised: 2003 Date raised: June 21, 2010 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Gwaii Trust Old Massett at the Old Massett Building Village Council Administration Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart Building Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko

RAVEN HOUSE AMANDA EDGARS MEMORIAL Date raised: 2010 Date raised: 1992 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Old Massett Old Massett Village Council Administration Lead carver: Paul White Building Lead carver: k'aajuu Xial Donnie Edenshaw

K’YAALUU EAGLE HOUSE ST. JOHN’S CHURCH Date raised: 2010 Date raised: 1969 Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Location: Gad Gaywáas at St John’s Old Massett at the Old Massett Anglican Church in Gaw Tlagee Old Village Council Administration Massett Building Lead carver: Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw Guud San Glans Robert Davidson

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K’AADSNEE SHARK HOUSE YAN EAGLE Date raised: 1986 Date raised: 1973 Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball Tlagee Old Massett field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Lead carver: Lead carver: skil qaat’la.aas Reg Davidson HlGawangdlii Skilaa Lawrence Bell

STAASTAS 7IDANSUU MORRIS TAAW WHITE MEMORIAL Date raised: 2016 Date raised: 1999 Location: Taaw Tow Hill Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White Tlagee Old Massett Assistants: Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White and and eagle by Diana White Kihlguulans Christian White Figure: a portrait of Taaw

YAN RAVEN HAAPII Date raised: 1973 Date raised: 2016 Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball Location: Taaw Tow Hill field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White Lead carver: Assistants: HlGawangdlii Skilaa Lawrence Bell Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White and Diana White Story: Haapii is the hero who killed a beast living atop Taaw. The creature’s helpers, a kun whale and Guud eagle, left their marks at Taaw in the form of the blowhole and the scratches on the rocks in front of Taaw sdaal Tow Hill.

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YAAN POLE Date raised: 1991 Location: Yaan Yan Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart

HL’YAALAN SOLSTICE POLE Date raised: June 21, 2017 Location: Hl’yáalan 'Llngee Hiellen village Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian White Assistant carvers: T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White, Ga'uu Derek White, Hak’wanan Jay Bellis, Janeka Bell, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White, Shane Bell, Skilaaw Captain Stewart-Burton, Jaadaa Haanaas Tiffany Boyko, ShayIana Brown, Liihang Langaa Paul Byron Finishing assistants: Gunii Roger Smith, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bullpit Figures (bottom to top): kilslaay holding t’aaw in the arms of his wife, Xuuts, two Xuuts gidalang in ears, Ts’ing, Xuaajii GidGalang, Sgyamsun blue mountain hawk, Sparrow Hawk, hlk’yan K’uust’an, Xuuajii transforming, K’uuxan in its mouth, two more hlk’yan K’uust’an, man wearing Guud K’al, Nang kilslaas, iihll.ngas kyahjuu llGaayGa, nang jaada kyahjuu llGaayGa

GoHaidaGwaii.ca 63 64 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII KUNxaLas Haida Heritage Site BY GRAHAM RICHARD AND KII'ILJUUS BARB WILSON

uuya Raven then came to the mouth of Tllgiimi Bentick Arm. Looking sea- Xward Jiila Kuns appeared half out of the water. Xuuya wanted her. He built three canoes and paddled out to her but each time she disappeared below the surface. So Xuuya found Xuuya tluuGa Giant vetch in the grass on shore. He picked a pod of the plant and wedged it open with sticks. When he paddled out to her in this vessel Jiila Kuns remained within reach and he brought her aboard.

Xuuya brought Jiila Kuns to Gawu Kuns barren bedrock runs into stretches of the head of Cumshewa Inlet, where he sandy beach and all along the shore, had a house he had taken from beaver. river mouths flow from beneath dense She and Xuuya had five daughters who forests. became mothers of Kuustak Eagle clan, the matrilineal descendants of the Eagle Creeks run through thicket-covered under- moiety, and five sons, one of whom was story, draining marshy and estuarine areas. Kaagwaal Stone Ribs. There are many Monumental cedar, hemlock, and spruce other pieces to this story, suffice to say once drew this plentiful water from river at least four clans still identify her as banks, which hosted a wide diversity of their supernatural ancestress. For thou- life including birds, mammals, arthropods sands of years her descendants lived in and mollusks. The lake, Gawu Kuns Siiwaay Hlkinul Kaahlii Cumshewa Inlet. enables unique understory ecosystems to thrive, including deep beds of moss and At the eastern tip of the inlet’s north- thick berry-bushes that carry numerous ern side a point called Kunxalas Cum- medicines and flowers. Every year salmon shewa Head, meaning ‘hole in nose’, return to enrich the old growth rainforest. juts out from the inlet’s lip. In 2008, the Council of the Haida Nation formally es- Neighbouring marine areas are home to tablished Kunxalas SGaagiidaay Kuuyada xuud Harbour seals and kay Stellar sealions Kunxalas Haida Heritage Site, naming the that sunbathe on the rocky reef at Kal area after this prominent feature. The Guuda Gwaay.yaay Cumshewa Island. From protected area stretches from Hlkinul their haul-out the bulky animals plunge ChiiGas.sgii Fairbairn Shoals – its south- into the sea to patrol nearby kelp forests ern extent – to K’aasda GawGa Copper and eelgrass meadows that run thick with Bay in the north. A total of 157.2 square Gayda sandlance, iinang Pacific herring, kilometres are protected and includes xaaguu halibut, and sGaahlan cod at var- 33.6 km2 of marsh and forest and 123.6 ious times of the year. Shellfish mark the km2 of ocean and intertidal areas. sandy bottom amongst a forest of kelp.

Glaciers carved the areas rugged hills The shallow shoals are just one of several over thousands of years, heaving rock- rich ecosystems within the Haida Heritage piles into massive drumlins atop beds Site. Our Haida kuuniisii ancestors set of shale. These high slopes transition hooks in these fishing grounds, and hunted to beaches which then slowly taper into xuud and kay in turn – the bones of these the ocean. Rocky outcrops are part of larger animals once cluttered nearby islands. Looking west in Kunxalas. Photo — Flavien Mabit the rugged coastline, which is littered with glacial erratics. In some areas,

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 65 66 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Haida kuuniisii ancestors regularly cleared areas with fire. Berry bushes favoured the nutrient-enriched soil, thickened with ash and grew abun- dantly. This practice is just one example of a resource-management system kuuniisii sustained throughout the area. Surrounding villages used traditional laws to manage cultivation, fishing, hunting and forestry. The area’s ecological wealth makes gathering resources for ‘waahlGahl potlatch possible and the harvesting of food and resources is crucial to long-term social stability with timescales that stretch back thousands of years. This legal institution celebrates and reinforces deep respect for Haida Gwaii, enabling Haida lineages to manage resources intergenerationally.

In areas like Kunts’ii Sheldens Bay wa- terfowl gather in huge flocks every year Above: Sunset along the beach Kunxalas seashore. in an open, grassy estuary. Visitors can Opposite, clockwise: Tide is out in Dogfish Bay. A collection of shells collected along Diinal GawGa Gray drive there although the logging roads Bay. An active logging road. A gyaaGang monumental pole. can be rough. But the end of the road All photos – Flavien Mabit brings a view that opens to a wide, rocky bay. At the site’s northern edge, a broad river drains through the estuary into the sea.

Further south, visitors can drive to Diinal GawGa Gray Bay, another site our Haida kuuniisii once occupied. At the bay’s northernmost extremity, the salmon river Diinal Gandlaay Gray Bay Creek helped to sustain the neighbouring Haida village of Kunts’ii Llnagaay. Today, campsites run along the edge of a long sand-and-pebble beach. The shallow, sloping bottom is perfect for swimming and a tall evergreen forest shelters campsites from wind and rain.

Throughout thousands of years of Haida occupation, these forests have grown thick with culturally modified trees and middens. All through the area some ts’uu Red cedar tower on high hills, bearing the marks of the sustainable management regime kuuniisii used to guarantee the wealth of future generations. � Above, clockwise: Forest access road to Diinal GawGa Gray Bay. Hiking along the shores of Kunts'ii Sheldens Bay. Waves crash between Secret Cove and Dogfish Bay. Taking a photo of taan bear.

All photos – Flavien Mabit

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 67 68 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Trees BY GRAHAM RICHARD

After the Last Glacial Maximum 19,000 years ago, Haida Gwaii deglaciated over the course of just 6,000 years. The Haida k'iygang canon of oral histories tell of kuniisii ancestors living in grass houses and catching fish from shore during this era.

By about 15,500 years ago Haida Gwaii was significantly deglaciated and by about 14,500 years ago willows, grasses, sedges, and berries filled these areas turning them into a dwarf-shrub tundra – Haida Gwaii was transforming into a coastal rainforest.

Haida kuniisii ancestors lived through this transformation and ensured future generations would uphold respectful harvesting protocols for these beautiful plants. Throughout millennia Haida have harvested plants in accordance with the strict management policies and legal restrictions still honoured by the current generation.

Today the results of this process are all around us and the forests you walk through during your visit hold a diversity of plants and animals. Following are descriptions of the most prominent and recognizable trees found in the forests of Haida Gwaii.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 69 TS’AHL GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL LODGEPOLE PINE

The first ts’ahl pine a r rive d at SGuuluu Jaads Saahlwaay, a small is- let near ‘Laana DaaG ang.nga Swan Bay Village. Pollen found in the fossil record aligns with this story indicating that ts’ahl was the first tree to return to Haida Gwaii 14,500 years ago.

Ts’ahl grows to approximately 50 metres and its pitch and bark are medicinal. Its thin, reddish-grey bark curls tightly and naturally when torn away and can be used as a cast to hold broken bones in place.

KAL GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL RED ALDER

Kal Red alder is known for preparing dis- turbed ground for a succession of evergreens. In spring, broad green, elliptic leaves grow from spry, flexible branches. Their leaves turn a startling bright yellow before falling and building of soils.

The pollen record shows kal Red alder was scattered throughout Haida Gwaii’s forests before 14,000 years ago and since then it has become the most common deciduous tree on the Islands.

When it is torn away, the bark layer turns red or bright orange. Kuuniisii ancestors soaked this in water along with cedar bark to dye clothes. Darkening fishing lines with this dye also camouflaged the gear from the wary eyes of fish.

Today Haida use kal to smoke fish and carve utensils. It is also a popular material for mask-carving.

70 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII KIID GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL KAYD HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL

SITKA SPRUCE

Over 13,000 years ago kiid Sitka spruce arrived. At that time, small stands of trees were inter- spersed with open land unlike the forest today.

These giants reach up to 100 metres high and five metres thick. As children of Haida Gwaii quickly learn, kiid’s needles are very hard and sharp and protrude from branches at all angles. Thin grey bark breaks up into scales, appearing not unlike the crust of a frozen river.

Kiid wood tends to be dense and straight-grained, making it an excellent building material. The knots and branches make ideal fishing hooks and the dried wood is great in a fire. The smoke carries no unappealing flavours making it ideal for preparing fish.

Kiid’s most cherished provision, however, might be its roots. Weavers collect the straightest roots possible, then remove bark and clean thin lay- ers of residual casing away to reveal each root’s glossy smooth centre. Weavers may then split larger roots along the centre. Spruce root baskets and hats are of the highest quality, and can be entirely waterproof.

K’AANG GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL

WESTERN HEMLOCK

With the return of k’aang hemlock Haida Gwaii began to resemble the rainforest of today. K’aang can easily grow to 60 metres and up to 80 metres. In contrast to the spiny-branched kiid spruce, k’aang’s needles are softer and thinner. Needles generally appear in two rows on branches that appear to pour from the tree. The pitch is medicinal, treating wounds and infec- tions effectively. There are many uses for k’aang’s straight-grained lumber and hard knots including fishing hooks, boxes, utensils, dishes, spears, snares, weirs, wedges, and children’s bows.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 71 TS’UU GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL RED CEDAR

ALSO CALLED: WESTERN RED CEDAR, PACIFIC RED CEDAR, GIANT ARBORVITAE, WESTERN ARBORVITAE, GIANT CEDAR, SHINGLEWOOD

Often growing to 60 and 65 metres and to a maximum of 70 metres, ts’uu Red cedar is equally impressive to its cousin sGahlaan. Ts’uu typically lives for well over a thousand years with a currently known maximum age of 1,460 years.

Branches grow glossy, yellow-green scales when viewed closely are arranged in four or- derly rows. Each set of four interlocks with the next set like shingles. This gives the appearance of even braids that hang in wide, sweeping shrouds from bowing limbs.

Since its return ts’uu has become the centre of Haida life. Straight-grained ts’uu is easily split into planks, posts and house beams. The rot-resistant and easily-worked wood is the main material in bentwood-boxes, harpoon and spear shafts, furniture, whistles, fish weirs, and a wide variety of smaller items.

After its arrival, ts’uu bark became the primary material used in Haida clothes and has been woven into mats, hats, cloaks, baskets, ropes, fishing line, fishnets and ceremonial items ever since. Cedar-bark cloaks are especially beautiful, and put the ingenuity, skill, and spirit of kuniisii ancestors on full display.

72 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII SGAHLAAN GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL SGAAHLAN HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL

YELLOW CEDAR

ALSO CALLED: NOOTKA CYPRESS, ALASKA CYPRESS, NOOTKA CEDAR, YELLOW CEDAR, ALASKA CEDAR, AND ALASKA YELLOW CEDAR

SGahlaan Yellow cedar typically grow to 20–40 metres but can reach 50 metres and are common- ly 1,000 to 1,500 years old. The bark peels ver- tically in brittle strips and these grey shreds bow slightly away from the trunk. Grace- ful, downward-sweeping branches lend this tree a dignified elegance and charm. Beneath is a layer of soft lustrous yellow inner bark, which is harvested and woven into fine hats, mats and blankets.

In spring, round powder-blue cones appear and trans- form into brown-centred cones. In the right conditions sGahlaan will grow straight and tall which is perfect for carving into paddles, digging sticks, adze handles, dishes, sculp- tures, masks, and rattles.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 73 HLGIID GAW TLAGEE XAAD KIL HLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL

WESTERN YEW ALSO CALLED: PACIFIC YEW, CALIFORNIA YEW, OREGON YEW, AMERICAN YEW HlGiid yew likely returned about 9,000 years ago. While small in stature it is of utmost importance. At two to fifteen metres tall, hlGiid is very much part of the forest understory. The tree can grow in very shady conditions and is scattered, usually in damp areas, throughout old-growth forests.

HlGiid is distinct in appearance. Shredded, pa- per red bark covers a twisting trunk and flat needles sit in tidy rows along each branch. The needles are long and narrow, tapering like canoes at either end.

The majority of hlGiid bear either male or female cones but a few individuals bear both male and female pollen-producing and seed-producing fruits. As they approach the end of their lives, male hlGiid can transition to become females.

Though a conifer, the tree is unique in its pro- duction of berry-like fruits. Each bright reddish-pink fruit surrounds a single, hard and very poisonous seed. Fruits form in a cup-shape around the seed and resemble large huckle- berries. While the fruit is edible, crushing and eating a few seeds accidentally can be deadly. Still, the fruits remain an important food for birds – enjoying the fruit and discarding the seeds.

The wood is durable, dense and heavy. It’s ideal for carving into items including tools like adze handles, harpoon shafts, spears, sewing needles, knives, dishes, boxes and masks. Heavy yew clubs and paddles are prized for their du- rability. The wood is also tensile and flexible, making it ideal for bows. It is so closely associated with bows that the word hlGiid, means both ‘bow’ and ‘yew tree’.

74 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII WHy we LOvE hAiDa GWAii

Beng Favreau QUEEN CHARLOTTE DAAJING GIIDS Island resident for 12 years. Reasons for living here — people, nature, tranquility. K’aajuu G’aaya Gregory N. Williams HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE There are many, many reasons I love Haida Gwaii. A couple are, we all have clean running water and we all take care each other.

Hilang Jaad Xyalaa Leslie Brown GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT I live in Haida Gwaii because my children learn more culture from art and form line. They learn the culture of our people and why we want to protect our homeland.

Donald 'Duffy' Edgars GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT Haida Gwaii is the most beautiful place to live. And the people are the friendliest in the world.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 75 GWAII HAANAS Make your connection. Faites votre connexion. Hla gudGii sGaagid.

pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas

HAIDA NATION 76 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Photo: Jags Brown GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA RESERVE AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE

WELCOME TO THE ISLANDS OF BEAUTY independent travelers. July to mid-August is the busiest travel period, so if you plan to visit during this time, verify the waii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine availability of your Gwaii Haanas dates before finalizing your Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage travel plans. Site is a wild place. With no road access, stores, G Are you travelling independently or on a guided trip? If you cell phone coverage and little signage, it is a true wilder- would like to take a guided trip, book your trip directly with ness experience. a licensed tour operator. See pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaii- Gwaii Haanas is not only home to a plethora of unique sub- haanas/visit/guides/voyagistes-operators for a list of licensed species and environments, it is also home to Haida. Today the tour operators. If you are travelling independently (in your own Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada boat, personal or rented kayak) you will need to make a reser- manage Gwaii Haanas through a cooperative agreement. They vation and attend an orientation. work together through the Archipelago Management Board, which protects Gwaii Haanas from sea floor to mountain peak. HAIDA WATCHMEN PROGRAM Gwaii Haanas visitors can paddle kayaks or catch the wind sail- For millenia Haida posted watchmen at strategic positions ing through waters alongside sGaana killer whales, skul Pacific around villages to keep an eye on the village and anyone white-sided dolphins and kay Steller sea lions. They may see approaching. The current Gina Ga Ga Kyahts'as Haida Gwaii pods of kun humpbacks breaching and flicking their tail flukes Watchmen Program began in 1981 as a volunteer initiative de- as they gorge on the bounty of the Gwaii Haanas marine area. signed to protect Haida villages and other important cultural Visitors can float through GaysiiGas K'iidsii Burnaby Narrows, sites in Gwaii Haanas. Today, Watchmen welcome visitors and teeming with intertidal life, and see a vast array of different act as guardians protecting the villages from spring until au- species at lower tides. tumn at: Haida have lived among the sGaanaGwaay supernatural beings K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans of Haida Gwaii at least since the end of the ice age, and have T’aanuu Llnagaay Tanu managed Gwaii Haanas to maintain its ecological integrity for Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Bay at least 14,500 years. Kayak along shorelines teeming with sea stars, walk amid towering, century-old monumental poles and Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring Island soak up the moss-shrouded magic of 1,884 islands and islets. SGang Gwaay Anthony Island In the summer, activities range from one-day guided boat trips to extended boating or kayaking adventures. Listen as Haida Watchmen share oral histories and stories which have been passed down through generations. PLANNING YOUR VISIT Monumental poles at SGang Gwaay, a UNESCO World Heritage Gwaii Haanas balances recreation with protection of the nat- Site, and K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans stretch into the sky telling ural and cultural features that attract people. With this in ancient stories. The poles are maps of Haida lives and lineages mind, the number of visitors entering Gwaii Haanas each day and form a connection with the supernatural, displaying crests is limited. Available space is distributed between guided and associated with certain families and people.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 77 Photo: Guy Kimola Photo: Guy Kimola FEATURED TRAILS PROTECTED AREAS FEATURED ForTRAILS specific trail information see PROTECTED AREAS For specific trail informationBCParks.ca see or gohaidagwaii.ca. HAIDA NATION BCParks.ca or gohaidagwaii.ca. HAIDA NATION 1 1 TaawTaaw TlldaweeTow Hill & TowKwahtsiisda Hill Blow Hole OF HAIDA GWAII 1 1 TaawTaaw TlldaweeTow Hill & TowKwahtsiisda Hill Blow Hole OF HAIDA GWAII 1 2 Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife 1 2 Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife 3 East Beach 3 East Beach Trail Marker design – Ben Davidson

Trail Marker design – Ben Davidson 2 4 K’iid K’iiyaas Golden Spruce CO-MANAGEMENT K’iid K’iiyaas Golden Spruce Taaw TlldaweeTlldaweeTowand Tow the Hill Kwahtsiisdaand Kwahtsiisda Blow BlowHole Hole– Nee – KunNee Kun CO-MANAGEMENT 2 4 Taaw TlldaweeTlldaweeTowand Tow the Hill Kwahtsiisdaand Kwahtsiisda Blow BlowHole Hole– Nee – KunNee Kun The Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 5 Pesuta Photo: Guy Kimola The Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 1 5 Pesuta Photo: Guy Kimola eighteen terrestrial and marine protected areas 1 eighteen terrestrial and marine protected areas 6 Anvil 6 Anvil across Haida Gwaii. This amounts to one-third across Haida Gwaii. This amounts to one-third 7 Yaagun Yakoun 7 Lake Yaagun Yakoun Lake of the Islands – just over 224,000 hectares of the Islands – just over 224,000 hectares 8 Bonanza Beach 8 Bonanza Beach (553,516(553,516 acres). acres). Combined Combined with with Gwaii Gwaii Haanas Haanas 3 3 9 Gregory Beach 9 Gregory Beach NationalNational Park Park Reserve, Reserve, National National Marine Marine Conser Conser- - 10 Dover 10 Dover vationvation Area Area Reserve Reserve and and Haida Haida Heritage Heritage Site, Site, 4 4 11 Secret Cove 11 Secret Cove fifty-twofifty-two percent percent of of Haida Haida Gwaii Gwaii is protected is protected and and THE THETRAIL TRAIL MARKER MARKER 2 2 managedmanaged collaboratively. collaboratively. 5 TrailsTrails throughout throughout the Protected the Protected Areas areAreas marked are marked 2 5 2 CAMPGROUNDSCAMPGROUNDS Bridge on the trail to the Pesuta – Naay Kun with the salmon/trout head reflective symbol. Tll.aal Tlell Bridge on the trail to the Pesuta – Naay Kun with the salmon/trout head reflective symbol. Agate Beach and Misty Meadows Photo: Flavien Mabit YAHGUDAANGYAHGUUDANG Tll.aal Tlell Agate Beach and Misty Meadows Photo: Flavien Mabit YAHGUDAANGYAHGUUDANG There are two main shapes that make up Haida 6 campgrounds are subject to a nightly There are two main shapes that make up Haida 6 campgrounds are subject to a nightly • Use the principles of ‘Leave No Trace’ camping. art, the ‘ovoid’ and ‘U’ shapes. Within many 9 8 fee – June 1 to September 30. • Use the principles of ‘Leave No Trace’ camping. art, the ‘ovoid’ and ‘U’ shapes. Within many 9 8 fee – June 1 to September 30. classical designs you will find the salmon/trout 1 Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach • Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that classical designs you will find the salmon/trout 1 Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach • Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that head like this one used along the trails. Haida art 7 2 Misty Meadows you may encounter along your route and report head like this one used along the trails. Haida art 7 2 Misty Meadows you may encounter along your route and report uses the design to fill spaces in eye balls, wings, 3 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation uses the design to fill spaces in eye balls, wings, 3 3 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation body parts, etc. There are thousands of different and BC Parks. waysbody this common parts, etc. design There element are thousands can be used. of different 3 and BC Parks. & Watchways for thisthis reflective common marker design as element you walk can the be used. 10 PICNIC PADDLING • Respect sensitive plants growing in coastal 10 Make sure you understandPICNIC the risks & PADDLINGof Islands’Watch trails for this reflective marker as you walk the water sport activities. • sand Respect ecosystems sensitive and plants do not growing trample in or coastal Photo: Guy Kimola Make sure you understand the risks of Near Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas Islands’ trails 1 Gantl’ Gadaas waterPure Lake sport activities. Photo: Guy Kimola Photo: Flavien Mabit pick sand them. ecosystems and do not trample or 11 3 4 Near Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas 2 Kwiid Suu Mayer 1 Lake Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake Photo: Flavien Mabit pick them. • 11 3 4 3 Yaagun Suu Yakoun 2 Kwiid Lake Suu Mayer Lake • Avoid travel in the forest during high winds. • • Avoid travel in the forest during high winds. 4 Diinal GawGa Gray 3 Yaagun Bay Suu Yakoun Lake • On exposed beaches always be aware of the 4 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay • tideOn andexposed never beachesturn your alwaysback to bethe aware sea. Make of the PROTECTED AREAS sure you have an up to date tide table and tide and never turn your back to the sea. Make 14 Protected Areas were designated know how to interpret it. through vaiousPROTECTED political mechanisms byAREAS sure you have an up to date tide table and the Haida Nation, Province14 Protected of BC Areasand were designated know how to interpret it. federal government.through vaious political mechanisms by Foreshore at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas • BeBe Taan Bear bear Aware! Aware. Taan Taanbear can be encountered can be encountered the Haida Nation, Province of BC and Photo: Guy Kimola throughout Haida Gwaii. Always store your CONTACTS EMERGENCY NUMBERSfederal government. Foreshore at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas • foodBeBe BearTaan trashBear bearAware! properly Aware! Aware. Taan andTaan Taanawaybear bear canfrom can be your be encounteredencoun- encountered Photo: Guy Kimola teredthroughout throughout Haida HaidaGwaii. Gwaii. Always Always store your store COUNCIL of the HAIDA NATION – PROTECTED AREAS campsite. Keep dogs under control and pay CONTACTS RCMP EMERGENCY NUMBERS attention yourfood foodtrash to trash yourproperly surroundings, properly and away and especially awayfrom yourfrom near your • 250 559 4468 Queen Charlotte • 250 559 4421 COUNCIL of the HAIDA NATION – PROTECTED AREAS Masset • 250 626 3991 salmon campsite.campsite. rivers. Keep dogs under controlcontrol andand paypay • haidanation.ca RCMP attention to your surroundings, especially near • 250 559 4468 Ground SearchQueen & Rescue Charlotte – contact • 250 559 4421 attention to your surroundings, especially near closest RCMP salmon rivers BC PARKS Masset • 250 626 3991 • Use salmon fire rings rivers. if provided and never leave • haidanation.ca Naikoon Park Headquarters in Tlell BC AMBULANCEGround Search & Rescue – contact your fire unattended. Please ensure it is closest RCMP • 250BC 557 PARKS 4390 1 800 461 9911 • completlyUse fire rings extinguished if provided before and you never leave. leave • BCParks.ca Naikoon Park Headquarters in Tlell Canoe near Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach – Nee Kun your fire unattended. Please ensure it is OBSERVE, RECORD,BC AMBULANCE REPORT Photo: Guy Kimola • Use care and attention driving on active • 250 557 4390 Fish & Wildlife 1violations, 800 461 littering 9911 or completly extinguished before you leave. OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL logging roads. • BCParks.ca pollution – 1 800 465 4336 Canoe near Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach – Nee Kun • 250 626 3337 OBSERVE, RECORD, REPORT Photo: Guy Kimola • Use care and attention driving on active • oldmassettvillagecouncil,com RAPP – Report AllFish Poachers & Wildlife & Polluters violations, littering or • TSUNAMIS are rare and dangerous. If you feel OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL logging roads. 1 877 952 7277pollution – 1 800 465 4336 the ground shake strongly for more than 30 • 250 626 3337 Conservation Officer – Cell #7277 GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, seconds or notice the tide dropping rapidly and • oldmassettvillagecouncil,com RAPP – Report All Poachers & Polluters • TSUNAMIS are rare and dangerous. If you feel NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA MARINE EMERGENCY1 877 952 7277 drastically, immediately move to higher ground. Prince Rupert Coast Guard the ground shake strongly for more than 30 RESERVE, and HAIDA HERITAGE SITE Conservation Officer – Cell #7277 GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, 250 627 3081 • VHF 16 • Cell #727 secondsYahguudang or notice is the Haida the tide concept dropping for respect rapidly and • 877 559 8818 • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanasNATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA MARINE EMERGENCY Board walk leading to Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole – Nee Kun [drastically,for the immediately land, sea and allmove living tothings. higher ground.[ RESCUE CENTRE RESERVE, and HAIDA HERITAGE SITE 1 800 567 5111Prince Rupert Coast Guard 250 627 3081 • VHF 16 • Cell #727 Yahguudang is the Haida concept for respect • 877 559 8818 • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanaass• parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanas Board walk leading to Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole – Nee Kun [ for the land, sea and all living things. [ RESCUE CENTRE 1 800 567 5111 78 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanaass Photo: Guy Kimola Photo: Guy Kimola

FEATUREDFEATURED TRAILS TRAILS PROTECTED AREAS For specific trail information see PROTECTED AREAS BCParks.caFor specific or gohaidagwaii.ca. trail information see BCParks.ca or gohaidagwaii.ca. HAIDA NATION 1 1 TaawTaaw TlldaweeTow Hill & TowKwahtsiisda Hill Blow Hole HAIDA NATION 1 1 TaawTaaw TlldaweeTow Hill & TowKwahtsiisda Hill Blow Hole OFOF HAIDA HAIDA GWAII GWAII 1 2 Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife 1 2 Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife 3 East Beach 3 East Beach Trail Marker design – Ben Davidson 2 4 K’iid K’iiyaas Golden Spruce CO-MANAGEMENT Trail Marker design – Ben Davidson Taaw TlldaweeTlldaweeTowand Tow the Hill Kwahtsiisdaand Kwahtsiisda Blow BlowHole Hole– Nee – KunNee Kun CO-MANAGEMENT 2 4 K’iid K’iiyaas Golden Spruce Taaw TlldaweeTlldaweeTowand Tow the Hill Kwahtsiisdaand Kwahtsiisda Blow BlowHole Hole– Nee – KunNee KunThe Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 5 Pesuta Photo: Guy Kimola The Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 1 5 Pesuta eighteenPhoto: Guy Kimola terrestrial and marine protected areas 1 eighteen terrestrial and marine protected areas 6 Anvil across Haida Gwaii. This amounts to one-third 6 Anvil across Haida Gwaii. This amounts to one-third 7 Yaagun Yakoun Lake of the Islands – just over 224,000 hectares 7 Yaagun Yakoun Lake of the Islands – just over 224,000 hectares 8 Bonanza Beach (553,516 acres). Combined with Gwaii Haanas 8 Bonanza Beach (553,516 acres). Combined with Gwaii Haanas 3 9 Gregory Beach National Park Reserve, National Marine Conser- 3 9 Gregory Beach National Park Reserve, National Marine Conser- 10 Dover vation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, 4 10 Dover vation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, 4 11 Secret Cove fifty-two percent of Haida Gwaii is protected and 11 Secret Cove fifty-two percent of Haida Gwaii is protected and THE TRAIL MARKER 2 managed collaboratively. THE TRAIL MARKER 2 managed collaboratively. Trails throughout the Protected Areas are marked 5 Trails throughout the Protected Areas are marked 2 5 CAMPGROUNDS with the salmon/trout head reflective symbol. 2 CAMPGROUNDS Bridge on the trail to the Pesuta – Naay Kun with the salmon/trout head reflective symbol. Tll.aal Tlell Agate Beach and Misty Meadows Bridge on the trail to the Pesuta – Naay Kun Photo: Flavien Mabit YAHGUDAANGYAHGUUDANG There are two main shapes that make up Haida Tll.aal Tlell Agate Beach and Misty Meadows Photo: Flavien Mabit YAHGUDAANGYAHGUUDANG 6 campgrounds are subject to a nightly There are two main shapes that make up Haida 6 campgrounds are subject to a nightly • Use the principles of ‘Leave No Trace’ camping. art, the ‘ovoid’ and ‘U’ shapes. Within many 9 8 fee – June 1 to September 30. • Use the principles of ‘Leave No Trace’ camping. art, the ‘ovoid’ and ‘U’ shapes. Within many 9 8 fee – June 1 to September 30. classical designs you will find the salmon/trout 1 Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach classical designs you will find the salmon/trout 1 Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach • Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that head like this one used along the trails. Haida art • Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that head like this one used along the trails. Haida art 7 2 Misty Meadows you may encounter along your route and report uses the design to fill spaces in eye balls, wings, 7 2 Misty Meadows you may encounter along your route and report uses the design to fill spaces in eye balls, wings, 3 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation body parts, etc. There are thousands of different 3 3 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation body parts, etc. There are thousands of different 3 and BC Parks. ways this common design element can be used. and BC Parks. ways this common design element can be used. PICNIC & PADDLING Watch for this reflective marker as you walk the 10 PICNIC & PADDLING • Respect sensitive plants growing in coastal Watch for this reflective marker as you walk the 10 Make sure you understand the risks of • Respect sensitive plants growing in coastal Islands’ trails waterMake sport sure activities. you understand the risks of sand ecosystems and do not trample or Islands’ trails Photo: Guy Kimola water sport activities. Near Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas sand ecosystems and do not trample or Photo: Guy Kimola 1 Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake Near Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas Photo: Flavien Mabit pick them. 1 Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake Photo: Flavien Mabit 11 3 4 pick them. 11 3 4 2 Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake • 2 Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake • 3 Yaagun Suu Yakoun Lake • Avoid travel in the forest during high winds. 3 Yaagun Suu Yakoun Lake • Avoid travel in the forest during high winds. 4 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay 4 Diinal GawGa Gray Bay • On exposed beaches always be aware of the • On exposed beaches always be aware of the tide and never turn your back to the sea. Make tide and never turn your back to the sea. Make PROTECTED AREAS sure you have an up to date tide table and PROTECTED AREAS sure you have an up to date tide table and 14 Protected Areas were designated know how to interpret it. through14 Protectedvaious political Areas mechanisms were designated by know how to interpret it. the Haidathrough Nation, vaious Province political of mechanisms BC and by federalthe government. Haida Nation, Province of BC and Foreshore at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas • BeBe Taan Bear bear Aware! Aware. Taan Taan bear can can be be encountered encountered federal government.

Foreshore at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay – Kunxalas Photo: Guy Kimola • BeBe Taan Bear bear Aware! Aware. Taan Taan bear can can be be encountered encountered

Photo: Guy Kimola throughout Haida Gwaii. Always store your throughout Haida Gwaii. Always store your CONTACTS EMERGENCY NUMBERS food trash properly and away from your CONTACTS EMERGENCY NUMBERS food trash properly and away from your COUNCIL of the HAIDA NATION – PROTECTED AREAS campsite. Keep dogs under control and pay COUNCIL of the HAIDA NATION – PROTECTED AREAS RCMP campsite. Keep dogs under control and pay • 250 559 4468 RCMP • attention to your surroundings, especially near Queen Charlotte 250• 559 4421 attention to your surroundings, especially near • 250 559 4468 MassetQueen • 250 Charlotte 626 3991 250 559 4421 salmon rivers. • haidanation.ca Masset • 250 626 3991 salmon rivers. • haidanation.ca Ground Search & Rescue – contact closestGround RCMP Search & Rescue – contact BC PARKS closest RCMP • Use fire rings if provided and never leave BC PARKS • Use fire rings if provided and never leave Naikoon Park Headquarters in Tlell your fire unattended. Please ensure it is Naikoon Park Headquarters in Tlell BC AMBULANCE your fire unattended. Please ensure it is • 250 557 4390 1 800BC 461AMBULANCE 9911 completly extinguished before you leave. • 250 557 4390 1 800 461 9911 completly extinguished before you leave. • BCParks.ca Canoe near Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach – Nee Kun • BCParks.ca OBSERVE, RECORD, REPORT Canoe near Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach – Nee Kun Photo: Guy Kimola OBSERVE, RECORD, REPORT •Photo: Guy Kimola Use care and attention driving on active Fish & Wildlife violations, littering or • Use care and attention driving on active OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL Fish & Wildlife violations, littering or logging roads. OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL pollution – 1 800 465 4336 logging roads. • 250 626 3337 pollution – 1 800 465 4336 • 250 626 3337 • oldmassettvillagecouncil,com RAPP – Report All Poachers & Polluters • TSUNAMIS are rare and dangerous. If you feel • oldmassettvillagecouncil,com 1 877RAPP 952 – 7277Report All Poachers & Polluters • TSUNAMIS are rare and dangerous. If you feel 1 877 952 7277 the ground shake strongly for more than 30 Conservation Officer – Cell #7277 the ground shake strongly for more than 30 GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, Conservation Officer – Cell #7277 seconds or notice the tide dropping rapidly and GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, seconds or notice the tide dropping rapidly and NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA MARINE EMERGENCY drastically, immediately move to higher ground. NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA MARINE EMERGENCY drastically, immediately move to higher ground. RESERVE, and HAIDA HERITAGE SITE Prince Rupert Coast Guard RESERVE, and HAIDA HERITAGE SITE 250 Prince627 3081 Rupert • VHF Coast 16 •Gua Cellrd #727 Yahguudang is the Haida concept for respect • 877 559 8818 250 627 3081 • VHF 16 • Cell #727 Yahguudang is the Haida concept for respect • 877 559 8818 Board walk leading to Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole – Nee Kun for the land, sea and all living things. • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanas [ for the land, sea and all living things. [ • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanas RESCUE CENTRE Board walk leading to Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole – Nee Kun [ [ 1 800RESCUE 567 5111 CENTRE 1 800 567 5111 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 79 • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanaass • parkscanada.ca/gwaiihaanaass

NOTICE TO VISITORS IF YOU ENCOUNTER A HAIDA OBJECT • Haida have lived on Haida Gwaii since at least the time of the glaciers. After millenia of occupation and stewardship, Haida kuuniisii ancestors have left signs of their presence throughout the Islands. These objects and physical alterations to the landscape and supernatural sites connect this current generation with kuuniisii.

The Haida Nation collectively holds If you encounter an Haida object: Title and Rights to this territory. In recent years Haida have sought to • Do not touch, move or alter have Canada recognize this fact in the object or its location Canadian courts. Haida use the signs • Photograph the object where kuuniisii placed throughout Haida it is Gwaii as evidence of our long-term • Take photos of the occupation and stewardship. surrounding terrain and To recognize the Haida connection to context kuuniisi; our long-term management • Describe the object in notes of Haida territorial lands and waters; • Describe the surrounding area and the importance of preserving evidence, visitors are asked not to look • Describe where the object for Haida objects. is compared to prominent landmarks Removing Haida objects from the • If possible, take a GPS landscape without permission vio- coordinate at the find location lates both Haida and Canadian law. • Mark the object’s position on Should you encounter a Haida object a map during your visit, here is how to act respectfully. Kindly deliver this information to a Council of the Haida Nation office as soon as possible.

CHN Gaw Tlagee Old Massett CHN HlGaagilda Skidegate Reception #1 Reservoir Road 504 Naanii Street, Old Massett Box 98 Box 589, Masset, Haida Gwaii Queen Charlotte, Haida Gwaii V0T 1M0 V0T 1S0 p.250.626.5252 p.250.559.4468

[email protected] [email protected]

IITL' KUUNIISII OUR ANCESTORS Haida law forbids anyone to disturb the human remains of our kuuniisii. If you know of or find human remains, contact CHN Heritage and Natural Resource Department immediately at 250.626.6058. Photo — Gregory Gould

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 81 HAIDA WORD GUIDE

LAND & SEA GAW TLAGEE HLGAAGILDA XAAD KIL XAAYDA KIL Fish eggs Tsaay Chaay Northern abalone Galgahlyaan GaalGahlyan Cassin’s Auklet Hajaa Haaja Pacific herring 'Iinaang Iinang Harlequin duck Sasaa K’iigee K’ayda k’uuxawuu Pelagic cormorant K’yaaluu K’yaaluu Pine marten K’uu K’uuxuu Salmon berries Sk’awGaan Sk’awGan Haida Gwaii goshawk Sdads k’un Stads k’un Red cedar Ts’uu Ts’uu Cedar bark Giid Ts’uu k’al Grizzly bear Xuuts’ Xuuajii BEINGS The Haida canon of K’iygang K’aaygang.nga XAAYDA KIL AND oral histories XAAD KIL CONSONANTS Matrilineal descendants of the Yaalaa Kayxal Lips p, b, m, w raven moiety Respected one Kilslaay Kilslaay Back of t, t’, d, n, ts, ts’, j, s, Matrilineal teeth tl, tl’, dl, hl, l, l’ descendants of the Guuda Kuustak eagle moiety Hard palate y, ch Ancestors Kuniisii Kuuniisii One Whose Voice is Obeyed or Nang Kilslaas Nang Kilsdlas Soft palate k, k’, g, ng, x, w Supernatural Raven Supernatural Being SGaanuwee Kiidas k, k’, G (in Xaayda Uvula Kil), x ITEMS & EVENTS Monumental pole Gyaa’aang GyaaGang Glottis G (in Xaad Kil) Expert carver K’id ‘leegaa ‘aayaagaa Gya k’id llGaayGa Raven’s Tail weaving Yaahl Kuu Xuuya K'iida Grandmother Naanii Nanaay Copper shield T’aaw T’aaGuu Make it right Tll yahdaa Tll yahda (Balance) Grandfather Chinaay Chiinaay Respect Yahgudang Yahguudang Potlatch 'Waahl’ahl 'WaahlGahl VOWELS Thank you Haw’aa Haawa

92 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE BY JASKWAAN BEDARD

aida language, known as Xaad Kil in the North and Local efforts have produced a large number of beginner Xaayda Kil in the South of Haida Gwaii, is a defining speakers, as well as an emerging intermediate class of learn- Hfeature of who we are as a people. A century ago, one ers. Community members of all ages have opportunity to learn could hear Haida in every aspect of daily life – a way of life at a variety of levels. There are so many bright spots but to go intrinsically connected to the land, sea, animals, and histo- further the next steps will take a monumental effort and what ry of this place. There is a value beyond measure that can is required to bring the language back to fluency surpasses be attributed to each word spoken, every sound repeated the ability of current funding models. At present, there is little that reverberates off our ocean and trees. infrastructure funding for Indigenous language education, pro- gramming or community efforts to strengthen the language. The language is a ‘language isolate’ meaning that it is a family of its own and not related to any other language, near or far. It is a convoluted system. Indigenous language efforts should Our distinctive way of looking at the world is reflected in our be directly funded by the very government that engineered language and the multitude of its nuances can only be de- its demise. Instead, there is no official stream for funding lan- coded by fluent speakers. Speaking the language allows us to guage under the Band Council system, but often communities continue a way of knowing the world that connects with our will nestle programs under this umbrella as a necessity to ap- ancestors and to the land. ply for grants. Communities are also left competing amongst one another for language project funding. With grant based As a visitor to Haida Gwaii you are sure to note the array of funding and the large scope of work needed to create new Haida language signage throughout the Islands. Street signs, fluent speakers, an unrealistic workload is constant for only building names, signs marking river crossings and culturally a few people. There is no coordinated provincial or federal important place names can all be read in both dialects – process that supports Indigenous language learning and de- Gaw Tlagee Old Massett in the north and HlGaagilda velopment that is even near the support given English and Skidegate in the south. French. When really, what is required is consistent long term funding that will support language efforts to bring – in our When we consider the signage, you could believe that the lan- case – Haida into the world and ‘make right’ the efforts to guage is well on its way to a status of strength and triumph. destroy the language in the first place. For sure, every victory in the use of the language deserves to be celebrated and held up, and there are many victories in our Though the reality of bringing a language back is daunting language community. Yet, it may surprise you to know that the gains have been made locally, provincially and federally. On Haida language is still defined as Critically Endangered by the Haida Gwaii, the Skidegate Haida Immersion Program, the UNESCO, meaning that most Haida fluent speakers are in our Haida Gwaii Mentor Apprentice Program, and the First Na- great-grandparent’s generation with few new fluent speakers. tions Languages Program Certificate classes are flourishing, We are at a tipping point. to name a few initiatives. Provincially, the current government has committed a major increase in funding to the First Peoples There are precious few fluent speakers who have spoken the Cultural Council (FPCC), a Crown funding agency for Indige- language since birth. They are known as ‘Heritage Speakers’. nous language and culture initiatives. Also of note is the fed- There are also many who know and understand the language, eral government’s adoption of the Indigenous Languages Act but because of the violent nature of the Residential and Day (2019), a result of Indigenous advocates and leadership lobby- School experience have difficulty speaking it today. These ing for decades. With ‘reconciliation’ on the national agenda community members are known as ‘Silent Speakers’ fortunate- there is hope that things will continue to change for the bet- ly many of them have learned to speak with adequate support ter, albeit the pace needs to pick up and funding streamlined. and a safe space like the Skidegate Haida Immersion Program We are working against the clock, as fluent speakers are aging (SHIP). and with every passing we lose a house full of knowledge. A complex web of factors has brought our language to this The Haida language is a beautiful living treasure. The flu- place. The history of suppression and oppression by succes- ent speakers, learners, and teachers all have invested im- sive Canadian governments is a story hundreds of other Indig- measurable parts of themselves to carry on the legacy of enous Nations have experienced. These acts came veiled as iitl’ kuniisii our ancestors. The depth of meaning in our lan- an educational effort through the horrific legacy of Residen- guage is precious. To hear the language is an honour and tial and Day schools. The damage the “schools” inflicted upon testimony to the strength of Indigenous resilience. It does our communities is still felt today in every part of Indigenous not exist as a curiosity for visitors or as a cameo for ‘reconcil- life. Today the historical policy enacted through Residential iation.’ The value of our language, or any Indigenous language, Schools is accepted worldwide as an attempt to destroy In- cannot be calculated economically but our work to upend the digenous cultures. Fortunately, that didn’t happen and the colonial legacy of language-loss holds true meaning and is of language survived with our people. high value.

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 93 Haawa to all of the hardworking Haida Gwaii businesses that support Kaats'ii hla This is Haida Gwaii

ACCOMMODATION ARTISANS CAMPING & RVS HL'YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH MASSET DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Agate Beach Campground ...... 91 Dave's Custom Carvings...... 84 Haydn Turner Campground...... 22 Haida Gwaii Beach Cabins...... 84 Islandwise Essentials...... 18, 83 Hiellen Longhouse Village ...... 84 CULTURAL & NATURE CENTRES Highwater House...... 84 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT MASSET Sunfish Studio...... 19 Nature Centre at Delkatla...... 84 MASSET April's White Raven House...... 91 TOURS & CHARTERS KAY LLNAGAAY Christie Street Cabins ...... t83 MASSET Haida Heritage Centre...... 6 Copper Beach House...... 83 Haida Gwaii Fishing Charters...... 19 Delkatla Boathouse...... 83 Highlander Marine Services ...... 22 EVENTS Hidden Island RV...... 84 Tow Hill Marine Tours...... 84 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Ocean House...... 4 Edge of the World Festival ...... 86 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Budgies Backpackers & Kayakers...... 82 ATM & FINANCIAL SERVICES Smilies Guesthouses ...... 82 MASSET & Sunset Park RV & Camping ...... 86 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Atlas Ocean Tours...... 82 Northern Savings Credit Union...... 89 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Green Coast Kayaking ...... 15 Cacilia's B&B ...... 83 Gwaii Land Tour Company...... 16 FERRY SERVICES Haida Gwaii Glamping Co...... 85 Haida Style Expeditions...... 7 BC Ferries...... 8 Haida House...... 4 HomeGrown Adventures ...... 13 Misty Meadows Campground...... 91 Northwest Fishing Team ...... 17 GAS / SERVICE STATION Sitka Cottage ...... 85 Ocean Edge Adventures ...... 16 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Richardson Ranch Guesthouses...... 23 Sail Piraeus ...... 14 Angela's Place...... 82 Riverside B&B ...... 22

K'IL KUN SANDSPIT HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE Gwaii Land Tour Company...... 16 Taaw Naay Gas Station ...... 23 Jag's Beanstalk...... 23 Sandspit Adventures...... 14 Moresby Explorers ...... 11 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Charlotte Tire...... 22 Abalone Eyes House...... 20 TAXI & SHUTTLE SERVICES Absence of Time House ...... 20 GAW TLAGEE MASSETT AREA & MORE GALLERIES & GIFTS Chateau Norm...... 18 Mile Zero Taxi...... 87 Duffy's Guesthouses...... 21 GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT April's White Raven House...... 91 Echo Bay Lodge ...... 19 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE Gracie's Place Hotel...... 22 Gin Kuyaas Haida Art Studio & DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE & Gifts ...... 84 Gwaii Adventure Campers ...... 20 Eagle Transit (YZP shuttle)...... 17 Sarah's Haida Arts and Jewelry ...... 91 Haydn Turner Campground...... 22 Gwaii Taxi & Tours...... 14 Hecate Inn...... 22 Misty Harbour Inn...... 19 MASSET Chown River Gallery...... 89 Premier Creek Lodging ...... 21 SANDSPIT K'IL KUN North Beach Apparel...... 88 Sea Raven Motel...... 17 Sandspit Bus...... 9 North Beach Surf Shop...... 88 Skyfall Cottage ...... 21 Spruce Point Lodge ...... 20 CAMPING & RVS Sword Fern Inn ...... 20 HL'YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH TLL.AAL TLELL AREA The Last Resort...... 19 Agate Beach Campground ...... 91 Crystal Cabin & Gallery ...... 12 The Lookout Guesthouse ...... 22 Sitka Studio...... 85 MASSET K'IL KUN SANDSPIT Hidden Island RV...... 84 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE Sandspit Inn...... 11 All About U Arts...... 7 Longhouse Gift Shop ...... 23 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS KXEEN PRINCE RUPERT Sunset Park RV & Camping...... 86 Crest Hotel...... 10 KAY LLNAGAAY Haida Gwaii Museum Trading House...... 6 TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Misty Meadows Campground ...... 91

94 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII Haawa to all of the hardworking Haida Gwaii businesses that support Kaats'ii hla This is Haida Gwaii

GALLERIES & GIFTS LOCAL INSTITUTIONS RESTAURANTS & FOOD TRUCKS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Gwaii Trust Society ...... 46/47 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT Charlisle ...... 20 Haida Gwaii Institute ...... 5 Sandspit Inn ...... 11 Funk It...... 21 Haida Gwaii Trader...... 82 Haida Heritage Centre...... 6 SEAFOOD PROCESSING HARDWARE & REPAIR STORES HaidaNation.ca...... 87 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE MASSET Indigenous Business Intercity Packers...... 8 Development Services ...... Inside Cover Haida Gwaii Co-op Hardware...... 90 MARINE TRANSPORTATION SPORT RENTALS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Highlander Marine Services ...... 22 MASSET ACE the Helpful Place...... 15 Masset Bikes ...... 83 Rocky's Equipment Sales ...... 18 MUSEUMS North Beach Surf Shop ...... 88 MASSET GROCERIES, MARKETS & MORE Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum ...... 88 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE MASSET Green Coast Kayaking ...... 15 Field's ...... 88 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Haida Gwaii Co-op...... 90 VEHICLE RENTALS Masset Market...... 83 Port Clements Museum ...... 86 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE The Long House Gift Shop...... 2 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS KAY LLNAGAAY Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals...... 13 Bayview Market ...... 82 Haida Gwaii Museum ...... 6

DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE TLL.AAL TLELL AREA PARKS Budget Rent-a-Car...... 22 Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store...... 82 Gwaii Haanas National Park...... 76 Naikoon Provincial Park...... 78-79 Charlotte Tire...... 22 Gwaii Adventure Campers ...... 20 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA PHARMACY Island Auto Rentals...... 20 Field's ...... 88 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Haida Gwaii Co-op...... 90 Forbes IDA Pharmacy ...... 15 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT Budget Rent-a-Car...... 22 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT SuperValu Sandspit ...... 14 PROFESSIONAL SERVICES VETERINARY, FEED STORE DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE TLL.AAL TLELL AREA Haida Gwaii Designs & Signs...... 20 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Haida Gwaii Animal Hospital/ McElhanney ...... 16 Richardson Ranch ...... 85 Isabel Creek Store...... 15 RESTAURANTS & FOOD TRUCKS HEALTH & WELLNESS VILLAGES MASSET Sandspit Community Society...... 9 HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA Mile Zero Dining Room & Daddy Village of Masset ...... 89 Kim Goetzinger Massage Therapy Clinic ...... 22 Cool's Public House ...... 87 Village of Port Clements...... 86 The Ground Gallery & Coffeehouse...... 88 DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE VISITOR CENTRES Sun Studio ...... 2 GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS Angela's Place Social Cafe...... 84 Port Clements Museum...... 86 LIQUOR STORES & BC CANNABIS DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE TLL.AAL TLELL AREA DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Howlers Private Liquor Store...... 19 Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store...... 82 Queen Charlotte Visitor Center ...... 18 The Rural Leaf...... 19 Haida House...... 4

GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS K'IL KUN SANDSPIT HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA Bayview Market ...... 82 Sandspit Visitor Centre...... 9 Jag's Beanstalk...... 23

TLL.AAL TLELL AREA DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store...... 82 ADVERTISING INQUIRES: Blacktail ...... 17 contact Alanah Mountifield J&T Family Restaurant ...... 21 K'IL KUN SANDSPIT Oceanview Pub & Grill ...... 22 [email protected] SuperValu Sandspit...... 14 Queen B's Cafe ...... 20 or call 250-559-8050 Sapporo Japanese Restaurant...... 23

KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 95 Work inside the Gyaa K’id Naay carving house at Kay Llnagaay.

Photo — Jags Brown

96 KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII NORTH-END HAIDA OWNED BUSINESSES GIN KUYAAS SANDY’S SEAFOOD JAMES HART CARVING SHED Haida arts & gifts Fish & chips Carver - wood [email protected] | 55 Raven Ave 250-626-7219 | 175 Raven Ave 397 Cemetery Rd | 604-612-8901

SARAH’S HAIDA JORDON SEWARD HAIDA ART SHERRI DICK HAIDA WEAVER ARTS & JEWELLERY Haida art - traditional & digital Weaving - Raven’s Tail, Chilkat Gift shop 55 Raven Ave 607 Loop Road | 250-626-7503 250-626-5560 | 387 Eagle Ave [email protected] NAKITA FISHING CHARTERS GEORGIA BENNETT - RAVEN’S EAGLE TALON ADVENTURES Fishing charters (sport fishing) TAIL WEAVER Kayak rentals 250-626-7648 Raven’s Tail weaving 778-361-0199 | 245 Eagle Ave [email protected] 250-626-5152 | 202 Eagle Ave HAIDA CARVER STUDIO MERLE ANDERSON SAMUEL’S STORE Carvings HAIDA WEAVER Convenient store 249 Eagle Rd | 250-626-9262 Weaver 145 Raven Ave 380 Eagle Ave | 250-626-9345 BERNARD KERRIGAN’S HAIDA ART HAIDA CANOE TOTEM AND DESIGN Carver - jewellery, argillite MILES EDGARS CARVINGS Carving shed 367 Eagle Ave | 250-626-5576 Carver - argillite 207 Eagle Ave | 250-626-7780 139 Raven Ave | 250-626-5501 WIND SPIRIT ART & TLUU XAADA NAAY EAGLES FEST LODGE CANOE PEOPLES HOUSE Lodging & accommodations Haida artist studio 50 Raven Ave | 250-626-6072 107 B Raven Ave | 250-626-7780

SK’WA KANSGAD NAAY HIGHWATER HOUSE Accommodations and tours Lot #1 Limberlost Place | 778-260-1707

IBCGWAAY NAAY ISLAND HOUSE Accommodations / Culture & nature tours 250-626-9699 | 1545 Main St TAAW K’YUU DELKATLA HOUSE TOW HILL ROAD Accommodations 1573 Delkatla Road | 250-626-8955

SPACE 6TWO6 Event venue space 2072 Collison Ave | 778-867-3464

LADYBIRD’S BOUTIQUE Vintage boutique 2072 Collison Ave | 778-867-3464

GAW TLAGEE MASSET OLD MASSETT HAIDA ARTISTS AROUND THE ISLANDS RAVEN PEARSON KEN HANS J. BELLIS HAIDA ART Painting Carver - wood; painting - Regalia, painting - traditional [email protected] canvas Haida arts [email protected] [email protected] JOHN BRENT CARVING Carver - wood, jewellery; LEON RIDLEY SKILAAW CARVING paintings Carver - cedar wood Carver - wood, argillite [email protected] Work at Sarah’s, Gin Kuyaas, 250-626-9590 [email protected] SOUTH-END HAIDA OWNED BUSINESSES JAMES HART CARVING SHED JAGS BEANSTALK WAYNE WILSON HAIDA ART TIM BOYKO ARTS Carver - wood Coffee shop & accommodations Carver - jewellery gold & silver, Carving - gold, silver, wood, argillite 397 Cemetery Rd | 604-612-8901 250-559-8826 | 100 Hwy 16 argillite 226 Front St | [email protected] 250-559-4760 SHERRI DICK HAIDA WEAVER LONG HOUSE GIFT SHOP [email protected] OCTOPY INC & COTTAGE RENTAL Weaving - Raven’s Tail, Chilkat Gift shop Limited Edition Prints; carving - wood, 607 Loop Road | 250-626-7503 250-559-8013 | 107 Front St GITKINJUUWAS HAIDA ART jewellery Carver - wood, argillite, copper, 250-559-8449 NAKITA FISHING CHARTERS JONES FISHING CHARTERS gold & silver, painting, photography, Fishing charters (sport fishing) Fishing charters Paddle Blanks MATHEW RIDLEY 250-626-7648 jonescharters.com 179 3rd Ave | 250-637-1301 Carving - wood, drawing, painting [email protected] [email protected] 402 Skidegate Heights | 250-559-8762 TONY GREENE MULTI MEDIA HAIDA MERLE ANDERSON HAIDA GWAII SCOOTER RENTALS ARTIST CONRAD COLLISON HAIDA WEAVER Scooter rentals Carving - metal, drawings, and Carving - leather, argillite Weaver 176 2nd Ave | 250-640-6474 paintings on argillite and wood 405 Skidegate Heights | 380 Eagle Ave | 250-626-9345 314 4th Ave | 250-559-0023 [email protected] GARNER MOODY HAIDA ART MILES EDGARS CARVINGS Carver - wood, argillite, metal KEENAWAII’S KITCHEN JIMMY JONES CARVING Carver - argillite 226 Front St. | 250-559-8864 Traditional Haida Food Dining Carving - wood 139 Raven Ave | 250-626-5501 237 Hwy 16 | 250-559-8347 774 Mountainview Dr | 250-559-7707 ALL ABOUT U ARTS Art gallery GEOFF GREENE HAIDA ARTIST HAIDA ARTIST DUSTIN CROSS 248 Hwy 16 | 250-559-7864 Acrylic and multi-media paintings Carver 237 Hwy 16 | 250-559-8347 778-361-0274 THOMAS GREENE TRADITIONAL [email protected] HAIDA CARVER DAVE’S TAKEOUT Carver - jewellery, metal Food & Beverage 211 Front St | [email protected] 112 Front St | 250-559-8782

HAIDA STYLE EXPEDITIONS NELSON CROSS CARVINGS Tour operator - Gwaii Haanas boat Carving - jewellery, t-shirts tours 2255 Front St. | 250-559-0005 #2 - 2 Beach Rd | 250-637-1151 IBG

HLGAAGILDA HIGHLANDER MARINE SERVICES LTD SKIDEGATE Marine services 1409 Oceanview Dr | 778-260-1707

HAIDA INKK Tattoo DAAJING GIIDS [email protected] 778-260-4655 QUEEN CHARLOTTE

SKIDEGATE INLET RETREAT Accommodations [email protected] | 778-877-7385

Indigenous Business Development business development organizations PAULA LAWSON Services provides entrepreneurial (including those associated with the Beadwork and business training to indigenous Western Canada Business Service communities. IBDS networks with Network) to promote collaboration and 250-559-7707 Indigenous communities and other sharing of best practices and services.

RON CASEY haidagwaiifutures.ca/ Carving - wood masks indigenousbusiness 778-260-1178 [email protected] Gwaliga Hart catches a wave at Hl’yaalang Waagusd North Beach.

Photo — Marcus Paladino Super, Natural British Columbia® is a trademark of Destination BC Corp.