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ISSN: 1309-3851 the the 2014 december complete + LUXURY TIMEPIECES PANERAI: guide to go guide to ... an TOP CONTEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS ART STARS MUSIC & CLASSICAL JAZZ EVE YEAR’S NEW CELEBRATE more d much ® ® Istanbul December 2014 the guide

14 SIGHTSEEING & museums Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events.

22 Galleries National and commercial art galleries.

26 entertainment & NIGHTLIFE The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs.

36 shopping Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores

50 dining Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine

66 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information. Tips for getting around town.

Contents on the cover 6 HOT DATES 26 ASTOUNDING FLAMENCO Panerai: Time and Elegance Don’t miss concerts by powerful British Consisting of seven brothers, Los Vivancos songwriter Morrissey, excellent pianis İdil Biret perform a wild flamenco show at Cemal Reşit Rey STAY IN TOUCH and programme in memory of Rumî. Auditorium. Get your tickets early! Follow us on twitter @where_istanbul

12 BOSPHORUS DELICACIES 72 MY PERFECT DAY Like us on facebook.com/ Enjoy an unforgettable seafood dinner at the Murat Ünal, general manager of Arte Gioia, whereistanbulmagazine peaceful Bosphorus restaurant Limani, shares some of the most pleasant spots in Where is the largest global prepared by Chef Selçuk Gönen. İstanbul. publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and operating in 76 cities worldwide.

december 2014 I WHERE İSTANBUL 1

Your traveling companion since 1936® ® WELCOME Editor's Letter wheremagazine

WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDiTORIAL The countdown to 2015 has begun! EDITOR Dilek Koç Yet another year is coming to a close, and the last days of 2014 are filled with concerts, MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı exhibitions and fairs. It’s the month to catch some of the top names in classical music, Contributing editor Emma Levine englısh edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer including Joshua Bell, İdil Biret, the Borusan Philharmonic Orchestra and the Munich Designer Tijen Tezel Chamber Orchestra (p. 27). World-famous jazz artists appear at Nardis Jazz Club, İş contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal Sanat Cultural Center and the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall (p. 27). deputy edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr During this last month of the year, the streets are already overflowing with reminders photo edıtor Sami Atalan of the season, with beautiful giftware and brilliantly decorated windows. consultant Aynur Koç responsıble edıtor Aslı Koç The museums have opened a host of new exhibitions to visitors, including modern ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT works by Turkish photographer Şahin Kaygun at İstanbul Modern, and Karanlıkta SALES DIRECTORS Gökkuşağı (‘Rainbow in the Darkness’) (p. 24), an exhibition focusing on social issues, Zeynep Sezer [email protected] at Salt (p. 25). The exhibition Eski İstanbul Fotoğrafları Koleksiyonu (‘Old İstanbul Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya Photographs’ Collection) at the will make you feel as if you’ve witnessed the [email protected] city’s past first-hand (p. 18). busıness development & marketıng marketing dırEctor Mahmut Bölükbaş The arrival of cold weather never makes a dent in İstanbul’s bustling life. The bars and [email protected] nightclubs in Karaköy and Şişhane are full to overflowing as always. Check out their productıon many food and entertainment alternatives for a unique way to send off 2014. productıon manager Aybüke Kevser assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak Every corner of the city offers something to be fascinated by, but don’t leave the city controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen without seeing İstanbul from the Bosphorus, having , tasting lokum ('Turkish delight'), trying the winter-only drink , and touring the Eminönü district with its many historic bazaars. where (c), cee & dıvısıon Wishing you a Happy New Year full of beauty and love, United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky regıonal manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul

Managing Director Morris Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted by turkuvaz matbaacılık yayıncılık A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.59 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, . Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey

4 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İstanbUl WHERE 57 Where now | CALENDAR DECEMBER Admire the well-preserved Byzantine 1 mosaics at the Musuem (p. 16) Enjoy İdil Biret’s classical piano recital at 2 Enka İbrahim Betil Auditorium (p. 27) See contemporary artworks in many media HOT DATES 3 by Şahin Kaygun at İstanbul Modern (p. 24) Ascend the landmark to see 4 the best views of İstanbul (p. 15) SUNDAY Choose Turkish CDs and fashions from busy 5 shopping street İstiklal Caddesi (p. 38) Enjoy traditional fasıl music at a restaurant 6 in the historic Çiçek Pasajı ('Flower Passage'). Don’t miss English singer Morrissey’s concert 7 at the Volkswagen Arena (p. 28) 7 Taste seasonal seafood and traditional at MORRISSEY 8 Limani Restaurant (p. 12) English singer songwriter, and former Haggle for carpets, silks and ceramics at the famous frontman of powerful alternative band 9 Grand Bazaar (p. 38) The Smiths, Morrissey performs his Take a tour of Topkapı Palace, and see how the poetic songs in a powerful concert at 10 Ottoman sultans lived (p. 19) Volkswagen Arena (p. 28). Enjoy a brilliant concert by the French-Belgian 11 chanteuse Viktor Lazlo (p. 27) View the group exhibition Karanlıkta Gökkuşağı 12 ('Rainbow in the Dark') at Salt Galata (p. 25) Spend a lovely evening with a laid-back vibe 13 at Ritim Galata (p. 53) Savour a delicious breakfast overlooking the 14 Bosphorus at Yeniköy Gazebo (p. 53) TUESDAY Join local fashionistas in Nişantaşı, with İstanbul’s 15 best Turkish designer boutiques (p. 38) Catch the celebrated violinist Joshua Bell in 16 concert at (p. 27) Find your favourite Oriental rugs and carpets 2 17 at Nakkaş emporium (p. 41) Enjoy the Şeb-i Arus programme at Zorlu Center İDİL BİRET 18 PSM, commemorating Prophet (p. 40) Considered one of the finest Visit the stunning Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque pianists of her generation, 19 with its ornate tiled interior (p. 20) and possessing an extensive Have lunch at the landmark restaurant Pandeli, knowledge of the Romantic period, 20 nestled inside the Spice Market (p. 64). Turkish pianist İdil Biret performs Visit the new Hisart Living History and Diorama works by Chopin and Scriabin, 21 Museum reflecting historic events (p. 16) among others, at the Enka İbrahim Explore the mysterious , dating Betil Auditorium (p. 27). 22 back to Byzantine times (p. 15) Enjoy Spanish, French and Italian cuisine at TUESDAY 23 the stylish restaurant The Galliard (p. 59) Spend a fun-filled day at the contemporary 24 shopping mall İstinye Park (p. 39) Take part in the St. Anthony of Padua Church’s 25 Christmas service (p. 14) Treat yourself to a relaxing soak and massage at 18 26 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Baths (p. 45) Do your holiday shopping at Mall of İstanbul, IN MEMORY OF RUMî 27 than relax in the cinema (p.39) Mevlânâ, better known in the Western world as Rumî, is now known Enjoy a delicious Sunday brunch with fruity throughout the world via translations of his books, Masnavi and the 28 cocktails at Ortaköy The House Café (p. 54) Divan-i Kabir. On the 741st anniversary of his death, or reunification Explore the busy streets of Karaköy with its with God, his book is brought to life through the voice of actor, 29 traditional workshops. narrator and television host Okan Bayülgen, and the semâ ritual with Tour the tile art exhibition Troyalı Hektor music by Ottoman composer Dede Efendi. Don’t miss this moving 30 ('Hector of Troy') at the Rahmi Koç Museum (p. 25). programme at Zorlu Center PSM. See out 2014 with the special New Year’s Eve 31 concert at Nardis Jazz Club (p. 27).

6 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2014

Panerai: TIME AND ELEGANCE Manufacturing top-of-the-line watches since 1997, prominent Italian brand Officine Panerai presents its new models to the delight of anyone with a passion for fine timepieces.

Special Edition: Radiomir The new Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso – 47mm is a special edition of great elegance, combining the deep blue of the

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Abdi İpekçi Cad. Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. www.panerai.com

Special Edition Set The Special Edition Set (PAM000785) is inspired by design, the two watches feature brown leather two models: the Luminor Black Seal, and Luminor bands with contrasting ecru stitching, and buckles Daylight created in 1996. Although inspired by a that harmonize elegantly with the case. 1996 production, the new watch stands out with A limited edition of 500 units, the watches are important technical features. Each watch features offered in a special set that includes a booklet the excellent quality of P.5000 manual-winding about military equipment of the Royal Italian Navy mechanical movement. Faithful to the original in special forces.

8 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 9 www.wheretraveler.com 13 Where Nonow || İSTANBULROYAL LONDON in 2014

LİMANİ

Selçuk Gönen Which items on the menu would you Executive Chef recommend? They should definitely try our fish kokoreç, grilled octopus and Tell us about your stuffed miniature calamari. restaurant’s decor and Does your hotel have any special events menu. for New Year’s? There’s a gala dinner in our Limani is a fish restaurant ballroom, with dishes created by master on the most beautiful section of the chefs, featuring a show by famous Turkish Bosphorus. Our menu features pop singer Candan Erçetin. Another fresh seafood, delicious local alternative is the New Year’s party specialities, and seafood at Diba Bar, with music served dishes prepared with which comes from my own region. up by a great DJ. wild herbs and spices. What are your favourite places in the Located alongside What are your thoughts city during your free time Street food, Tarabya Marina, our about ? absolutely! When I have time, I go around restaurant is the Turkish cuisine is a synthesis Istanbul and try to taste different street perfect place to take of cuisines from many foods. in the singular beauty different cultures, with rich, of the Bosphorus. The widely varying flavours in Haydar Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. décor is fish themed every part of the country. My www.thegrandtarabya.com. inside! favourite Turkish dish is keşkek, T: 0212 363 3300.

12 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS Sightseeing Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) The largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after a basilica once located nearby. Built during the reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Open daily between 09:00 am and 18:30 pm Admission fee: TL 20. www.yerebatan.com. Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Cad. 1/3, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. F5. Cistern Of Philoxenos (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. The Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. www.binbirdirek.com. İmran Öktem Sok. 4, Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1001. F5. Dolmabahçe Palace Museum (Dolmabahçe Sarayı Müzesi) Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Western influence in Ottoman architecture in the late 18th century. Design contains eclectic elements from the baroque, rococo and neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence during the early Republican Period and hosted many high level foreign guests before being converted into a museum. Daily open except Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 40. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7.

Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend A Magnificent the region from outside attacks. The tower has Best Christmas Ceremony a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the and the city. The restaurant located Christmas at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and İstanbul’s largest and oldest Catholic church, set just off the busy İstiklal international dishes. Daily 9am-8.30pm. Mass Admission fee: TL 18,5. www.galatatower.net. Caddesi, St Anthony of Padua, and has a large local community Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, , Each year the church is attending its regular Mass services. Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. decorated with Christmas trees, Galata Mevlevihanesi vibrant ornaments and ribbons, eaturing a distinctive red brick facade, Francis of Assisi was built by Catholic monks Founded in the late 15th century, this Mevlevi lodge with ornate circular windows, the in 1230, in the Galata district. Burned twice, and hosts the city’s most famous is a fine place to acquaint yourself with the Islamic church was built in neo-Gothic style in 1639 and 1660, it was rebuilt each time Christmas mass, complete with a Mystic philosophy and practices which hold such F an important place Anatolia’s cultural heritage. by İstanbul-born Italian architect Giulio on the same site. After the great fire of 1696, full chorus. Operating as a museum since the last quarter of Mongeri. Its which consumed the the 20th century, this historical site consists of interior walls are entire district, the church three floors, including the Semâhâne, where the partially covered was rebuilt in its present dervishes perform their famous ritual whirling by mosaics. Beyoğlu location, set dance. The museum’s collection also includes calligraphic panels, musical instruments, costumes İsmet İnönü and back off the busy Istiklal and other items from Mevlevi culture. Marshall Fevzi Caddesi. Dedicated in Daily open except Mondays 9am-7pm. Çakmak. Around 1724, again to St. Francis, Museum Pass Point

the sides, soldiers the new church served www.galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. and the people foreign Catholic palace Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 4141. D5. celebrate victory servants and merchants in the Turkish and their families. Museum (Aya İrini Müzesi) War of Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray. Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating The first church back to the 4th century. It is the second largest dedicated to St. Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only

14 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 december 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 15 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. among the finest examples of Byzantiane art. Daily events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. except Wed 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. events. Requires prior appointment by phone. TL Museum Pass Point Ayvansaray Mah.

20. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Sapphire Observation Deck Kariye Camii Sok. 26, Edirnekapı, Fatih. A hot destination since the day it opened, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 0480. F5. T: 0212 631 9241. C2. Sapphire’s observation deck offers a stunning 360° Hagia Sophia Museum panorama that takes in the Galata Tower, Hagia Doğançay Museum (Ayasofya Müzesi) Sophia, the Bosphorus and more. Daily 10am- Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor 10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, . his world-renowned son Burhan Doğançay. Free of Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most T: 0212 268 8383. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). charge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and www.dogancaymuseum.org. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Turkuazoo fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. of art, history and architecture, it served two Turkey’s first public aquarium, Turkuazoo is situated Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping centre. In Hisart Living History and church of the Byzantine Empire and 477 years as addition to observing marine life, visitors can Diorama Museum mosque - before being converted into a museum also experience one of the most breath taking Over its six floors, this huge new museum presents in 1935. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 25. activities of a life time; Diving with Sharks. Mon-Sun historic military and ethnographic artefacts 10am-8pm. www.turkuazoo.com. Forum İstanbul from civilizations and events that shaped world Museum Pass Point Ayasofya Meydanı, Shopping Center, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. 5/5, history using miniature scale models (dioramas). Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2015. Exhibits include depictions of Roman, Byzantine, İstanbul Aquarium Shopping Centre Map (p.42). Seljuk and Ottoman Empires, plus the Turkish The İstanbul Aquarium is the world’s largest War of Independence, and World Wars I and thematic aquarium, and has received huge positive Yıldız Palace, Şale Mansion II. The museum is home to the world’s most response from the public. Daily 10am-8pm. (Yıldız Sarayı, Şale Köşk) comprehensive collection of dioramas, with mamy www.istanbulakvaryum.com. Şenlikköy Mah. Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most hundreds on display. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm, Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, . fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman Sun noon-6pm. Admission TL 20. architecture. It consists of three main buildings T: 0212 444 9744. Off map. www.hisartmuseum.com. Hürriyet Mah. constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located Cemil Bengü Cad. 21, Çağlayan. Jurassic Land in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two T: 0212 296 9804. Off map. Jurassic Land invites you to discover the world sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm of the dinosaurs, where these most magnificent II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu İstanbul Archaeological Museums creatures – the last of which died out 65 million 9:00am-5pm. www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri) years ago – come back to life. Designed in an fee: TL 10. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist ‘edutainment’ concept combining fun and T: 0212 259 8977. A8. Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts education. Daily 10am-8pm. Museum Pass from the many civilizations that have left their Advantage Point (%15 discount on tickets) marks upon history. It is also the first museum www.jurassicland.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe museums founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 8088. Adam Mickiewicz Museum foremost of its kind in the world. It is actually three Shopping Centre Map (p.42). Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, different museums under the same administration: who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque organize the Polish troops on the allied side. Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and This mosque, designed by Mimar Sinan, resembles Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), which together form a small Hagia Sophia, and is adorned with famous Tue-Sun 9.30am-4:30pm. Admission free. Serdar Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, . an outstanding attraction in the city. tiles of the period. It also includes a külliye, or www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. complex consisting of a Turkish bath, a tomb and a T: 0212 237 2545. B5. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point (10% madrassah. , Beyoğlu. D5. Aşiyan Museum discount at the Shop and Café)

Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been at the Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and belongings of other prominent members of the İstanbul Modern centre of many myths. According to one, it was Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions built by an emperor to protect his daughter who he Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of charge. Tue-Sat 9am-4pm. Bebek, Aşiyan Yolu 15, and events held with the support of private saw die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved individuals, institutions and establishments as well Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map. futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and as local governments through joint projects. bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, Museum Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and (Beylerbeyi Sarayı Müzesi) Admission fee: TL 17. www.istanbulmodern.org. warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. foundations and most of the lower storey of the previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously tower were built during the reign of Mehmet II, and it was generally used in summers, particularly to İstanbul Railway Museum it took its final shape during the reign of Mahmut host foreign heads of state including the Prince This collection of 300 rail-related items explores II. Daily 9am-00:30am. Museum cafe 9am-6:45pm. of , King of , Shah of and all aspects of the Turkish Railways, including items Live music-dinner (Reservations required) 8:15pm- French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a from the original . Tue-Sat 9am- 12:30am. Museum Pass Advantage Point (25% off cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu 5pm. Sirkeci Train Station, Eminönü. adult tickets and 20% discount on Breakfast/Lunch/ 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Abdullahağa Cad. T: 0212 520 6575. E5. Dinner/Brunch purchases) Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. Off map. Museum for the History of Science and www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. D7. Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) Technology in Islam (İstanbul İslam Miniatürk First built as part of a monastery in 534, this Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi) Covering an area of 60,000 square metres, is the only remaining structure from a larger This museum displays modern copies of inventions Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world, complex. Since its construction, it has seen major and discoveries by Muslim scholars which were displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major renovations in the 11th and 14th centuries. The used for centuries but largely forgotten. The structures in the Turkish and former Ottoman modern building consists mostly of the portions displays illustrate clearly how works of Islamic region. Open daily between 9:00 am and 7pm. renovated during the Ottoman and Republican science in areas including astronomy, geography, Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. periods. Its magnificent mosaics and frescos are mathematics, optics, medicine, chemistry,

16 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. the . A work by sculptor Nadia of Ahmet I in the 17th century. The palace in its T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. Arditti to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish current form was built at the order of Abdülhamid soldiers fallen while defending their country greets II in 1880, who wanted his seat of government TBMM Department of National Palaces visitors at the entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm, beyond the reach of bombardment from the sea. Art Museum Fri&Sun 10am-2pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Items exhibited today originally belonged to The Apartment of the Heir Apparent at www.muze500.com. Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli the palace, including Abdülhamid II’s personal Dolmabahçe Palace, itself an architectural symbol Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik Arcade), Karaköy. belongings and gifts presented to him, and of the princes’ adoption of a free lifestyle, has T: 0212 292 6333. D5. products of the Yıldız Porcelain Factory still been converted into a world-class museum. located on the palace premises. Wed-Mon 9am- Opened in March 2014, the museum displays 202 Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) 6pm. www.yildizsarayi.com. Admission fee: TL 8. paintings depicting the late Ottoman Empire. Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the Museum Pass Point Yıldız, Beşiktaş. 174 of the works are from the National Palaces Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat T: 0212 258 3080. A8. Collection; the remaining 28 are from Topkapı of government of the Ottoman Empire and Palace. Tue-Wed 9am-5pm. Fri-Sun 9am-5pm. the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was MOSQUES Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. organised as a museum during the reign of Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until İstanbul’s mosques are among the most The Museum of Innocence 1924. It consists of several sections, including outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. The Masumiyet Müzesi (‘Museum of Innocence’), the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of Each has a unique history and architecture, and inspired by the 2008 novel of the same name the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan is open to visitors at vario times of the day. by Nobel prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, is the first Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), The following is a list of some of the highlights. museum in history inspired by a novel and made the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the Most open daily from dawn to sunset. reality. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require No admittance during the Friday prayer times A New Epoch With Every Step TL 25. Museum Pass Advantage Point (30 % off additional ticket purchase. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the The Hisart Living History and Diorama Museum exhibits original artefacts from a 2,000-year-old slice of world history. Through adult tickets, 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop Admission fee: TL 30. Harem, 9am-6pm. mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; and Café) www.masumiyetmuzesi.org. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point women should cover their heads. hundreds of dioramas (miniature scale models), the museum tells the story of significant eras, from the Eastern Roman Empire to Çukurcuma Cad. Dalgıç Çıkmazı, 2, Beyoğlu. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. the Byzantine and Seljuk Empires, and all the Ottoman periods. More modern-era historic periods from around the globe include Eyüp Sultan Mosque T: 0212 252 9738. C5. T: 0212 512 0480. E5. major events from World Wars I and II, the Turkish War of Independence, Korean War, the Operation and the Vietnam and Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden The Quincentennial Foundation Yıldız Palace Museums Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Ayyub Gulf Wars (p. 16). Museum Of Turkish Jews (Yıldız Sarayı Müzeleri) El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi) Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions Arab siege of . Mehmed II ordered (Also Known As Jewish Museum) and villas representing the last examples of the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the technology and architecture were discovered, Panorama 1453 History Museum Sadberk Hanım Museum Historical documents, information and objects Ottoman palace architecture. The first building location. The first mosque, which was completed reached Europe via various routes, and gradually Witness the conquest of İstanbul 560 years later Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in in the area was constructed during the reign in 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure absorbed into those cultures. Wed-Mon 9am- and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. museum is located in a renovated old waterfront 6pm. Museum Pass Point Gülhane Parkı İçi, Open daily between 8am and 6pm Admission fee: mansion. Exhibiting a collection of archaeological

Eminönü, Fatih. www.ibttm.org. TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Mah., artefacts, it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra T: 0212 528 8065. E5. Topkapı Kültür Parkı Panorama 1453 Tarih Müzesi Award for its modern museum practices. Thu-Tue Topkapı, Zeytinburnu. T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. 10am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 7. Museum Pass Mustafa Kemal Museum Advantage Point (You can buy the ticket with a This three-storey house in the Akaretler Row Pera Museum special discount) www.sadberkhanimmuzesi. Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, org.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 25/29, Sarıyer. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between museum hosts three permanent collections T: 0212 242 3813. 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his including Anatolian weights and measures, Off map. mother Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan Kütahya tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, Sakıp Sabancı Museum and his adopted son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now consisting of 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, The main building of this museum is a villa built in a museum displaying Atatürk’s belongings and Sun 12am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Museum 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince historical items from the time. Daily 9am-4pm. Pass Advantage Point (20% off adult tickets and Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive Admission free. Süleyman Seba Cad. Akaretler 10% discount on Perakende Artshop and Pera family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950. In Café) www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Sıraevler, 36, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3329. A7. 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. Military Museum (Askeri Müze) C5. its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this Press Museum (Basın Müzesi) The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and building serves today as the Military Museum. Transformed into a museum in 1988, this is the painting collection. Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am- 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the 6pm. 10am-8pm, Wed 10am-8pm. Free entrance collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited at Wednesdays. Museum Pass Advantage Point tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era includes lithography samples, platen machines, (TL8 for adult ticket and 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop) www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. 3 and 4pm. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: free. Divanyolu Cad. 76, Çemberlitaş. Off map. TL 4. www.tsk.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 2, Harbiye. T: 0212 513 8458. . Santralistanbul T: 0212 233 2720. B6. Rahmi M. Koç Museum The first power plant in the Ottoman Empire, Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) The first major museum in Turkey dedicated this complex was later upgraded in keeping with Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among to the history of transportation, industry and advances in technology and served İstanbul until the most important worldwide with its rich communication. Located on the shores of the 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within collection of 40,000 items. Barges, marine Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands the campus of a private university, the historical uniforms, manuscripts, scale models, standards, of objects from gramophone needles to ships building has recently been renovated to serve maps, paintings, sultans’ seals, coats of arms, and aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- as an art and culture centre. Highlights include galleys, navigation tools and weaponry. Tue-Fri 8pm. Admission fee: TL 12,50. Museum Pass the old engine rooms preserved to establish 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: Advantage Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% an Energy Museum, plus contemporary art TL 6. www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr. Deniz Müzesi discount on gift shop purchases) exhibitions and cultural events. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm,

Komutanlığı, Barbaros Hayrettin Cad.Beşiktaş. www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 15. T: 0212 327 4345. B7. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. www..org. Eski Silahtarağa

18 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 19 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan. Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in 1660, it was reopened in 1665. Eminönü. E4. churches AND Churches and synagogues hold an important place in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which has served as capital of three major empires over 1,600 years. The following are the most important of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their history and architecture. Synagogues require a permit, available from the İstanbul Chief Rabbinate. T: 0212 293 8794.

Armenian Patriarchate Just a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Seafaring History Sevgi Sok. 6, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. B4. Home to the largest and varied collection relating to Turkey’s fascinating maritime Ayios Dimitrios Church history, The Naval Museum houses a major world collection. In addition to illustrating Unusually for a 16th century Greek Orthodox Turkish naval history, the museum also owns an outstanding collection of historic church, it displays clear Ottoman architectural galleons and imperial vessels (p. 18). influence. Formerly the church of Ayios Athanasios, it is said to have changed its name when an icon of St. Dimitrios was brought here from a small church in the Kasımpaşa district. Kurtuluş Square, the last constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 Kadırga in 1507, this mosque was commissioned bus stop on Kurtuluş Cad. Ateşböceği Sok. 2, Şişli. and 1800. Eyüp. T: 0212 418 9393. A1. by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha T: 0212 250 6248. Off map. to Mimar Sinan for his wife. Its interior features Hirka-i Şerif Mosque İznik tiles and special hand-carvings, with a mihrab Beth Built in 1851 by Sultan Abdülmecid in Ottoman covered with calligraphic tiles. Şehit Mehmet Paşa Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious style, to house the Hırka-ı Şerif (the cloak of the Yokuşu, Kadırga, Eminönü. F4. services under the Neve Foundation. It is Prophet Mohammed presented to him by Uwais al- the most active synagogue in Turkey. Qarani) this mosque is open throughout the month Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque Bomonti, Kazım Orbay Cad.Efe Sok. 29, Şişli. of Ramadan. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Fatih. One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. T: 0212 631 6453. D2. and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly admired structure by all visitors. An example of Church Of St. George Of Fener Greek Nuruosmaniye Mosque classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind Orthodox Patriarchate Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this to be originally built with six minarets, and stands The centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this mosque was completed during the reign of his out on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It church hosts many relics including the column on brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its is also known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik which Jesus was whipped and remains of three baroque style and the three-dimensional stone tiles that adorn its interior. Entering the structure great saints. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Dr. Sadık patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. through one of its three gates, visitors are greeted Ahmet Cad. 35, Haliç. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone by its rich and colourful ornamentation including Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, engravings, tiles and stained glass windows Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street Eminönü. T: 0212 513 0692. E4. that complement the grandeur of its exterior. and İstiklal Street in , this church is a Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 4468. Ortaköy Mosque F4/F5. synthesis of Byzantine and modern architecture Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was Süleymaniye Mosque with a cruciform plan and twin bell towers. commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the Daily 9am-5pm. Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. Balyan. The structure underwent restoration Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550- T: 0212 244 1358. C5. between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure 1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is The most famous Jewish synagogue in the city. White stone was used for walls, mosaic and actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), , weddings, funerals, brit milahs, bar/bat marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. also including a madrasah (religious school), mitzvahs as well as high holidays are celebrated Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 359 5908. A9. library, hospital, bath, soup kitchen, treasury here. Büyük Hendek Cad. 67, Kuledibi, Beyoğlu. and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the Rüstem Paşa Mosque T: 0212 293 7566. D4. This mosque in the Tahtakale area, near the mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres Egyptian (Spice) Market, was commissioned to the in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with St. Anthony Of Padua Church famous architect Sinan by the daughter of Sultan the windows on the mihrab wall executed in with Roman Catholic church with the largest Suleiman the Magnificent. Begun in the year 1561, stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the it is a classical Ottoman structure, adorned with T: 0212 532 0623. E3/E4. church is between the two apartment buildings beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles bearing floral where priests reside. Reinforced concrete Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Camii) construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by and fruit motifs. Tue-Sun 9am-12pm, 1pm-5pm. Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Hasırcılar Çarşısı, Eminönü. F4. Bazaar (Spice Market), this mosque in the centre Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm. of a complex is one of the most glorious of the Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Mosque İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was With a single dome and minaret, and built in T: 0212 244 0935. commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by C5.

20 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 GALLERIES GALLERIES between the real and virtual, our increasing ceramic and sculptural pieces in Çamurun alienation from nature and construction of virtual Fısıldadıkları (‘What the Mud Whispers’). worlds in its place, Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.derinliklerart.com. Teşvikiye Cad. Nar Apt. 59, www.bozluartproject.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 45/131, K:2 D:2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 291 8255. A6. İsmet Apt. D:1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 7232. A6. Depo İstanbul C.A.M Gallery From 4 Dec: In Bir Bürokratın 24 Saati (‘24 Hours To 21 Dec: Yusuf Aygeç and Furkan ‘Nuka’ Birgün of a Bureaucrat’), Cemal Erez’s paintings depict divide the canvas down the middle and join their measures that those in power follow in order to personal worlds in their joint exhibition Koklayarak preserve their own power. Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. Duyuyorum (‘Sensing Through My Nose’). Tue-Sat www.depoistanbul.net. Tütün Deposu, Lüleci 11am-6.30pm. www. camgaleri.com. Şair Nedim Hendek Cad. 12, Tophane. Cad. 25A, Akaretler. T: 0212 245 7975. Off map. T: 0212 292 39 56-57. Off map. Daire Sanat Doğançay Museum To 6 Dec: Candan Öztürk focuses on meek To 7 Jun 2015: In recognition of the museum’s individuals and their states of mind, in her first solo 10th anniversary, the exhibition Picture the World: exhibition Güç ve Boşluk (‘Power and Oblivion’). Burhan Doğançay as Photographer is a collection The exhibition also includes film scenes that tell of of nearly 100 photographs by Burhan Doğançay. SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM bygone eras. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Mon-Sun 10am-6pm. www.dogancaymuseum.org. Joan Miró, Kadınlar, Kuşlar, Yıldızlar www.dairesanat.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 76A, Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. Tophane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5259. (‘Women, Birds, Stars’) p. 25 C5. Ekavart Gallery Derinlikler Art Gallery To 12 Dec: Mercan Dede’s exhibition Kadim Zaman Esra Vardar Argun exhibits her new Makinesi (‘Veteran Time Machine’) consists of his Anamed To 13 Dec: To 7 Dec: Unutulmuş Krallık Antik Alalah’ta Arkeoloji ve Fotoğraf (‘Forgotten Kingdom: Archaeology and Photography in Antique Alalah’) consists of archival photographs documenting excavations by English archaeologist Sir Leonard Woolley. www.rcac.ku.edi.tr. İstiklal Cad. 181, Merkez Han, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 6000. C5. Arter To 4 Jan 2015: Göçebe Bakış - Güneydoğu Asya’dan Çağdaş Sanat (‘The Roving Eye - Contemporary Art from Southeast Asia’) presents works which examine the artists’ cultures from multiple backgrounds, and reflect their personal viewpoints. Tue-Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sun noon-8pm. www.arter.org.tr. İstiklal Cad. 211, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3767. C5. Beyoğlu Akademililer Art Centre To 20 Dec: Kader Genç focuses on fragments of Tracing its Own History: nature and human themes in his exhibition Karanlık Işığı Çevreler (‘Dark Surrounds the Light’). Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-8pm. www.akademililer.com. İstanbul Archaeological Museum’s exhibition Mendel - Sebah: Müze-i Balo Sok. 37, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0229. C5. Hümayun’u Belgelemek (‘Mendel-Sebah: to Document the Imperial Block Art Space Museum’; to 11 Jan 2015) tells the story of the 1,860-page catalogue To 12 Dec: In their joint exhibition Cast Away, German artist Katharina Fengler and American prepared by French archaeologist Gustave Mendel. This important artist John von Bergen transmit stories of being marooned on an island. through their works on work was done in order to document the rich collections of the paper. Tue-Sat 11am-6.30pm. Archaeological Museum, formerly known as the Müze-i Hümayun. www.blokartspace.com. Faik Paşa Cad. 22, D:2, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 8382. C5.

orking for nine years, Mendel of the foremost photographers of the period. Borusan Contemporary created an excellent documentation Prepared under the curatorship of Prof. To 22 Mar 2015: Ortak Zemin: Toprak, Su, Hava (‘Common Ground: Soil, Water, Air’) – the second of the museum’s collections, Dr. Edhem Eldem to tell the story of this W of the ‘Selections from the Borusan Contemporary which was much more important piece of the museum’s history, Collection’ exhibition series centres upon the comprehensive and the exhibition is set up quite simply: It theme of Water. The works feature representations detailed than any presents 10 artefacts along with their of water in a natural and cultural context. Sat-Sun before it. At the same glass negatives, the line drawings based 10am-8pm. www.borusancontemporary.com. Perili Köşk, Baltalimanı Hisar Cad. Rumeli Hisarı, Sarıyer. time, the catalogue on the photographs, and their written T: 0212 393 5200. Off map. made systematic descriptions from the catalogue. Human and Cats use of line drawings Bozlu Art Project In his painting and sculpture exhibition Catrospectif at Gallery Selvin (from 18 Dec), Through images of trees in a medium by Georges Payraud, Cankurtaran Mah. Alemdar Cad. From 19 Dec: Feridun Oral illustrates the place that cats hold in our lives, examining their attitudes which combines painting and photography, based on photographs Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. Ali Alışır’s solo show Sanal Manzaralar (‘Virtual toward humans, as well as humans’ thoughts about the feline creatures (p. 24). by Sebah & Joaillier, two T: 0212 520 7740 Landscapes’) deals with feelings of being stuck

22 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 23 GALLERIES GALLERIES

(‘Orientalism in Polish Art’) displays orientalist recent works that look through the mysterious Salt Galata in his solo exhibition Link. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. window of the East upon the relationship between trends in Polish paintings, design, textiles and To 18 Jan 2015: Part of a continuing series of www.sodaistanbul.com. Şakayık Sok. 37/1, graphic works. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. time and space. Mon-Fri 11am-6.30pm. events recognizing the 600th year of Turkish-Polish Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 8988. A6. www.ekavartgallery.com. Askerocağı Cad. Ritz www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, relations, Karanlıkta Gökkuşağı (‘Rainbow in the Fairs Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. x-İst Carlton Otel, Süzer Plaza 15, Gümüşsuyu. Dark’) features works by several foreign artists Ali Elmacı illustrates the tactics those in T:0212 252 8131. B6. Pg Art Gallery focusing on modern art in the post-secularism To 20 Dec: authority use to shape the new generation through Reysi Kamhi’s solo show Dear Universe period. Tue-Sat 12pm-8pm. www.saltonline.org. PLAST EURASIA G-Art Gallery From 6 Dec: educational policies, in his solo exhibition Onu addresses subjects including nothingness, flow and Bankalar Cad. 11, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 2200. D5. The 24th İstanbul International Plastics To 26 Dec: Onlar’ın Diliyle Ben (‘“I” in their Own Öldür Beni Güldür (‘Kill Him Make Me Laugh’). submission, through large-scale works blending Industry Fair brings together buyers and Words’) presents striking designs and works on Soda Mon 11.30am-7.30pm. Tue-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. manufacturers in the plastics industry paper by nine artists from Belgium and Turkey, oil paints and ebru (paper marbling), collages and To 13 Dec: South Korean artist Seo Young Deok www.artxist.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. from Asia, the Middle East, the Balkans depicting themes of ‘human-animal’ and ‘inhuman paintings on tree trunks. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. highlights our lives in an age of infinite information 42/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 7784. A6. and Europe. animal’. Mon-Fri 11am-6.30pm. www.pgartgallery.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 76/B, www.plasteurasia.com www.g-artgalericom. Tomtom Mah. Kumbaracı Tophane. T: 0212 252 80 00. C5. 4-7 Dec. Yokuşu, 37/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 6622. C5. Pinelo Gallery Tüyap Fair and Convention Center Gaia Gallery To 3 Jan 2015: Actor Güven Kıraç catches the To 20 Dec: Arda Yalkın focuses on themes including unique details of human faces in an avant-garde war, politics, assimilation and the conflict between style in his exhibition Yüz Buldum (‘Faces’). 2nd İSTANBUL DESIGN BIENNIAL the individual and government, in his exhibition Turnacıbaşı Sok. 33/2, Korur Apt. Beyoğlu. Outstanding designers, architects, Deep Fried Dreams. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.pinelogallery.com. T: 0212 249 7871. C4. academics and cultural institutions meet www.gaiagallery.com. İstiklal Cad. Elhamra Pasajı, at this biennale, affording an excellent Piramid Sanat 130 D: 501, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 4973. C5. opportunity to check out their current To 20 Dec: Türk Çağdaş Sanatı’nın Devrim Yılları: design projects. Gallery Selvin 80’ler (‘The Revolution Years of the Modern Turkish http://2tb.iksv.org/index.asp To 14 Dec: Mahmut Karatoprak presents paintings Art: the 80s’) presents works created during to 14 Dec. and designs in his exhibition El Yordamları (‘Hand the 1980s military regime by 10 Turkish artists, Galata Private Greek School Techniques’). From 18 Dec: In his painting and born in the 1950s, who stood up against political sculpture exhibition Catrospectif (‘Catrospective’), oppression. www.piramidsanat.com. Feridiye Cad. Feridun Oral creates an ironic world in which cats 23 - 25, Taksim. T: 0212 297 3115. B6. are the heroes. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Proje4L - Elgiz Museum of www.galeriselvin.com. Arnavutköy Dere Sok. 3, Contemporary Art Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 7481. Off map. To 27 Dec: The exhibition 52-62 presents works Gallery Selvin 2 by Turkish sculptors born between 1952 and 1962. To 14 Dec: İnsan Kara Bir Leke Değildir (‘Human Wed-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-4pm. Yüzün Mülkiyeti is Not a Black Stain’), an exhibition of sculptures www.elgizmuseum.org. Meydan Sok. Beybi Giz (‘Ownership of the Face’) by Ozan Ünal, features carved wood and iron Plaza, Maslak. T: 0212 290 2525. Off map. pieces. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.galeriselvin.com. Arnavutköy Cad. 20/A Rahmi M. Koç Müzesi Çanakkale Destanının İlk Halkası Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 7481. Off map. To 27 Feb 2015: – Troyalı Hektor (‘The First Link in the Legend Galeri Zilberman of Çanakkale – Hector of Troy’), opened in To 10 Jan 2015: A native of Iraqi Kurdistan, London- commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the based artist Walid Siti illustrates his changing face SODA Victory at Çanakkale. It tells the story of Troy’s in parallel with the war in the Middle East, in his Seo Young Deok , Link, p. 25 legendary commander Hector through paintings exhibition Yeni Babil (‘The New Babel’). on tiles, canvas and vases, and the love between Tue-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat 12pm-7pm. Paris and Helen plus the struggle between Achilles www.galerizilberman.com. İstiklal Cad. 163 Mısır Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, Antrepo 4, Karaköy. and Hector. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Apt. K:3 D:10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1214. C5. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. İstanbul Archaeological Museums Mixer To 11 Jan 2015: Mendel-Sébah: Müze-i Hümayun’u To 14 Dec: Berkay Buğdanoğlu exhibits recent Rampa İstanbul Belgelemek (‘Mendel-Sébah: Documenting paintings on chaos, in his solo show Chaoskampf`. To 27 Dec: Artist Çağdaş Kahriman presents the Archeology Museum’) tells the story of the Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. design, animation and video pieces created over 1,860-page catalogue which French archaeologist www.mixerarts.com. Tomtom Mah. the past two years. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Gustave Mendel prepared in order to document Boğazkesen Cad. 45, Tophane. www.rampaistanbul.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 21A, the vast collections Müze-i Hümayun (the Imperial T: 0212 243 5443. C5. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 327 0800. A7/B7. Museum, later known as the Archaeological Museum). Tue-Sun 9am-7pm. Nesrin Esirtgen Collection Rodeo Gallery No:4 presents the annual group www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. İstanbul Arkeoloji To 19 Dec: To 13 Dec: Eftihis Patsourakis’ exhibition Zaman Müzeleri, Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu exhibition with works selected from the Nesrin ve Işık Üzerine İşler (‘Doings on Time and Light’) Esirtgen Collection by Turkish artists. Sok. Gülhane, Fatih. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. presents his most recent works, alongside new www.nesrinesirtgencollection.com. pieces by designer Michael Anastassiades. Tue-Sat Birdy 2214 İstanbul Modern İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163 K:5 D: 17, Beyoğlu. (‘Birdy 2214’) 10am-6pm. www.rodeo-gallery.com. Sıraselviler In recognition of the centenary of T: 0212 243 7853. To 4 Jan 2015: C5. Cad. 49 D:1, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5800. C5. Turkish cinema, the exhibition Yüzyıllık Aşk (‘One Notre Dame de Sion Fransız Lisesi MARKA 2014 Hundred Years of Love’), aims to examine cinema in Sakıp Sabancı Museum Photographer, painter and poet Daniel Now in its 15th year, this international brand Turkey from the viewpoint of the audience. To 30 Dec: To 1 Feb 2015: The major new exhibition Kadınlar, Colagrossi displays drawings of food that he conference sets the trends for the marketing To 15 Feb 2015: Şahin Kaygun has played a Kuşlar, Yıldızlar (‘Women, Birds, Stars’), reveals the From Nature prepared himself, along with recipes, in Çizgilerle world and plans the future courses of leading role in exploring new horizons in Turkish mature style of Spanish artist Joan Miró, when Kader Genç creates portraits inspired by the realities of nature, in his exhibition Karanlık Işığı Yemekler (‘Food Drawings’). Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. brands. photography. This exhibition includes Polaroid women, birds and stars became a major part of his www.nds.k12.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. 127, Harbiye. Çevreler (‘Dark Surrounds the Light’). On display at Akademililer Arts Centre (to 20 Dec), the www.markaconference.com works representing his first experimental expressive language. Tue-Sun 10 am-6pm, Wed T: 0212 219 1697. self-portraits present viewers with an infinite space for exploration, reminding them of the 18-19 Dec. interventions in photographs from the 1980s when B6. 10am-8pm. www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. Hilton İstanbul Bomonti the medium was new in Turkey, plus more recent Pera Museum Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. queries and confrontations within their own egos (p. 23). works. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10 am-8pm. To 18 Jan 2015: Polonya Sanatında Oryantalizm Off map. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i Mebusan Cad.

24 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 25 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT www.icec.org/tr. Gümüş Cad. 4, Harbiye. CRR Jazz Orchestra - Elif Çağlar, 24 Dec, T: 0212 373 1100. A6. 8pm: The orchestra with guest soloist Elif Çağlar performs jazz arrangements of anonymous Turkish Zorlu Center PSM folk songs. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi The double Pinchas Zukerman, 8 Dec, 9pm: Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Grammy award-winning violinist displays his unshakeable technique and skill. Farid Farjad, ENKA İbrahim Betil Auditorium 6 Dec, 9pm: Known as the ‘man who makes the İlhan Şeşen, Kürşat Başar, Burçin Büke, 16 Dec, violin cry’, Farjad’s performance includes western 8.30pm: This promises to be an unusual concert classical works plus compositions of Persian of varied styles, brining together words and music music. Joshua Bell, 16 Dec, 9pm: The celebrated by Şeşen, Başar on sax, and Büke on piano. American violinist presents another astounding www.enkasanat.org. Sadi Gülçelik Spor Sitesi, performance. Fazıl Say Mesopotamia Symphony, İstinye. T: 0212 276 2214. Off map. 20 Dec, 8.30pm: Gaining international acclaim with concerts on five continents, Fazıl Say İş Sanat Cultural Center presents his Mesopotamia Symphony. Anthony Strong, 16 Dec, 8pm: The young www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. English jazz superstar Strong performs jazz takes on classics including Cheek To Cheek and For T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. Once In My Life. www.issanat.com.tr. CONCERTS: JAZZ İş Sanat Kültür Merkezi, İş Kuleleri, 4. Levent. T: 0212 316 1083. B6. CRR Concert Hall Nardis Jazz Club Viktor Lazlo, 11 Dec, 8pm: Known for her AYO Flapper Swing Band feat. Önder Focan, 2 Dec, powerful, haunting voice, the Belgian-French 2 Dec, 8pm. 9.30pm: The group draws its repertoire from singer songwriter, AKA Sonia Dronier, infuses İş Sanat Cultural Center Django Reinhardt and jazz from the 20s and 30s. Latin songs with an engaging jazz flavour. (p. 29)

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL CRR Concert Hall Sublime An Enchanting Musical Journey with Flute and Harp, 5 Dec, 8pm: Bülent Evcil, Çağatay Akyol Singer and Emre Günay combine for a varied programme Enchanting audiences with her amazing which travels from Bach to Ravel, Irish airs to stage performances, Norwegian singer tango and Japanese melodies. Simone Kermes and guitarist Ane Brun performs an - Concerto Köln Baroque Concert, 9 Dec, 8pm: Soprano Kermes and the Concerto Köln Baroque acoustic set at KüçükÇiftlikpark Ensemble presents a brilliant programme of (12 Dec). Her concert features album baroque music. Jordi Savall: Bab-ı Ali Voices of songs tracks including Temporary Dive İstanbul, 16 Dec, 8pm: Influenced by the music and It All Starts with One, plus covers of the Mediterranean and the Balkans, Savall presents the many cultures of İstanbul through of songs by prominent artists such as music. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad. Leonard Cohen, The Beatles and The Wildest Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Eurythmics (p. 29). ENKA İbrahim Betil Auditorium İdil Biret, 2 Dec, 8:30pm: One of today’s top pianists, specialising in the Romantic period, Flamenco Show Ever performs compositions by Chopin and Scriabin. www.enkasanat.org. Sadi Gülçelik Spor Sitesi, Seven brothers from Spain make up Los Vivancos, and İstinye. T: 0212 276 2214. Off map. bring their stunning programme of fiery flamenco dance to İş Sanat Cultural Center Munich Chamber Orchestra, Alice Sara Ott, Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall (19-20 Dec). 13 Dec, 8pm: The prominent European chamber orchestra performs Mozart and Beethoven, with The latest show, Best of Vivancos, combines great names and their experience in the guest pianist Alice Sara Ott. www.issanat.com.tr. the finest sections of their previous show martial arts are all brilliantly reflected İş Sanat Kültür Merkezi, İş Kuleleri, 4. Levent. T: 0212 316 1083. Aeternum and their world premiere show on stage, making for a powerful B6. 7 Hermanos. Continuing in the flamenco dance experience. Kadıköy Süreyya Opera tradition they learned from their father Pedro, Borusan Quartet – Russian Night, 29 Dec, 8pm: The string quartet presents a night of Russian Los Vivancos have now turned flamenco Darülbedayi Cad. Harbiye. classics, with compositions by Borodin and into a spectacle and an artform, having T: 0212 232 9830. Shostakovich. www.sureyyaoperasi.org. performed for more than one million people www.crrkonsersalonu.org Bahariye Cad. Caferağa Mah. 29, Kadıköy. in 35 countries worldwide. The show includes T: 0216 346 1531. Off map. symphonic music recorded in and Lütfi Kırdar Convention and high-energy rock, for a red-hot spectacle. Exhibition Hall Los Vivancos present physically daunting Borusan İstanbul Philharmonic Orchestra, moves within an enchanting aesthetic. Barış için Müzik Orkestrası 13 Dec, 3:30pm: Conducted by Sascha Goetzel, the orchestra The epic atmosphere, previous work with performs works by Ravel, Mozart, Bizet and more.

26 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 27 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

Dilek Sert Erdoğan - Moments, 6 Dec, 10.30pm: They join London-based Oi Va Voy for an amazing One of the most powerful female soul vocalists morrıssey performance where it’s hard to sit still! GusGus, in recent years performs from her most recent 7 Dec, 7pm. 13 Dec, 10pm: The Icelandic electronic house album Moments, which was released last year. Volkswagen Arena (p. 28) group perform their favourite high-energy Q & A numbers. Asmalı Mescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 3, Turkish-Finnish Jazz Night, 9-10 Dec, 9.30pm: An entertaining evening with colourful solos Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 7368. C5. and group performances by Finnish and Turkish Josua Sayos Beyoğlu Hayal Kahvesi musicians. Su İdil Band, 12 Dec, 10.30pm: Su Los Vivancos, carrying the brilliant fire İdil and her group specialise in jazz, R&B, funk Shining Stars Presents: Kadebostany, 12 Dec, The eclectic group, with of flamenco through the blood of and soul styles. İpek Dinç Yüce Band, 13 Dec, 10:30pm, 13 Dec, 10pm: musicians from countries including Poland, , seven brothers from Spain, performs 10.30pm: The band plays well-known jazz pieces Kazakhstan and Romania, creates a vibrant sound plus Latin and funk numbers. Dolce, 19 Dec, two nights at the Cemal Reşit Rey on violin, accordion, sax, guitar, banjo and more. 10.30pm: The group presents a broad repertoire Concert Hall. We spoke with Josua ranging from its own arrangements to gospel and www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Meşelik Sok. 10, Sayos of Los Vivancos about his love musicals, along with impressive choreographies. Taksim. T: 0212 245 1048. C5. of flamenco, as well as İstanbul, Selen Beytekin Project, 20 Dec, 10.30pm: CRR Concert Hall Beytekin presents an entertaining programme where he has performed several times Einstürzende Neubauten-Lament, 3 Dec, 8pm: over the years. of jazz. Kamil Erdem Akustik Quintet & İmer Berlin art collective Einstürzende Neubauten Demirer - J.J. Johnson Anısına, 24 Dec, 9.30pm: presents their Lament tour, performing new works The quintet and Demirer focus on compositions focusing on World War II. by famous trombonist J. J. Johnson never before www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad., performed in Turkey. Yeni Yıl Özel Konseri, 31 Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Dec, 10.30pm: Meltem Ege, Bulut Gülen, Önder Focan, Kağan Yıldız and Ekin Cengizkan join Haliç Convention Center onstage for a magnificent New Year’s Eve concert. Funda Arar – Volkan Konak, 6 Dec, 8pm: The www.nardisjazz.com. Kuledibi Sok. 14, Galata. powerful Turkish pop vocalists join hot Black Sea T: 0212 244 6327. D5. singer Volkan Konak in a concert of their most popular songs. www.haliccc.com. Taşkışla Cad. CONCERTS: POP, Harbiye. T: 0212 373 9900. B6. TURKISH & WORLD İş Sanat Cultural Center Ayo, 2 Dec, 8pm: Considered one of Europe’s Volkswagen Arena top pop vocalists, the German-born Ayo sings Morrissey, 7 Dec, 7pm: With his powerful stage folk-soul pieces from her albums, including the performance and poetic, edgy compositions, the 2013 release, Ticket to the World. English singer-songwriter and one-time Smiths frontman promises an unforgettable evening. UNIQ İstanbul, Maslak Ayazağa Cad. 4, Sarıyer. T: 0212 350 91 00. Off map. JAY JAY JOHANSON 5 Dec, 10:30pm. Babylon his band performs an energetic mix of bolero, Valentin (p. 29) Latin with a Hint of Jazz Known for his song salsa, cha-cha plus plenty of surprises. Parov What does dance mean to you? Guts, 5 Dec, 11:30pm: Performing love songs with her velvet voice since the 80s, Viktor Lazlo (real name Against My Computer, the French DJ puts in a Stelar Band-Oi Va Voi, 13 Dec, 6pm: Hailing Dance is a mode of expression in which we from Austria, the band is one of the country’s most passionate performance. Ayhan Sicimoğlu – Sonia Dronier, who took the name of the character in the film Casablanca) takes the use our bodies as instruments. Just as in entertaining and energetic musical phenomena. Latin All Stars, 6 Dec, 11:30pm: Sicimoğlu and stage at the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall (11 Dec). Her performance includes her music, we can create powerful expressions of original Latin-inspired songs with jazz infusion, such as The Beguine and My Name is grief, joy and every emotion in between. Billie Holiday (p. 27). What is your favourite flamenco artist? I worked for some time with Joaquin Cortes. He is a wonderful dancer who uses his body www.issanat.com.tr. İş Sanat Kültür Merkezi, Nejat Eczacıbaşı Binası, Sadi Konuralp Cad. 4, in an aesthetic and masculine style, and I had İş Kuleleri, 4. Levent. T: 0212 316 1083. B6. Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0841. C5. great fun working with him. Garaj İstanbul Valentin Which dancer do you admire most? Gripin, 6 Dec, 11pm: This Turkish rock band, Jay Jay Johanson, 5 Dec, 10:30pm: This hot Of course that is our father Pedro, who we are based in Istanbul, performs their new songs to a Swedish vocalist’s musical influences vary from all in awe of, and we all grew up in this awe. mainly young audience. Tomtom Mah. Yeni Çarşı trip-hop to electro and indie. Maslak Sheraton Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. 11/A, Galatasaray, Otel K:3, Büyükdere Cad. 233, Üç Yol Mevkii, Tell us about your show in İstanbul. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. Maslak. T: 0212 285 9035. Off map. This will be the finest sections from our two previous shows, 7 Hermanos and Aeternum. KüçükÇiftlik Park The Norwegian singer- DANCE With the music recorded from Aeturnum in Ane Brun, 12 Dec, 9pm: songwriter and guitarist presents an acoustic particular, we will stage an epic flamenco CRR Concert Hall performance of her classic songs. Known as the show! Los Vivancos, 19-20 Dec, 8pm: www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 5, ‘Princes of Flamenco’, Los Vivancos present What are your impressions of İstanbul Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6. the best of their two shows, 7 Hermanos and We have collected wonderful memories in Salon IKSV Aeternum. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. Darülbedayi Cad., Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Istanbul over the past six years. Every spot Kiasmos, 6 Dec, 9.45pm: Combining piano in İstanbul is surrounded with history, and it and electronic music, Ólafur Arnalds and Janus İş Sanat Cultural Center is truly magical. Ortaköy, the Bosphorus and Rasmussen perform their music project Kiasmos. Trisha Brown Dance Company, 20 Dec, 8pm: Owen Pallett, 19 Dec, 9pm: Performing a many The American post-modern dance ensemble, Hagia Sophia are especially impressive. Trisha Brown Dance layered musical blend ranging from classical to created by choreographer Brown, puts on another Company CRR Concert Hall synth-pop, electronic and futurism, the Canadian dazzling performance. www.issanat.com.tr. Darülbedayi Cad. Harbiye. 20 Dec, 8pm. İş Sanat Cultural Center vocalist puts on an astounding polyphonic İş Sanat Kültür Merkezi, İş Kuleleri, 4. Levent. www.crrkonsersalonu.org. (p. 29) performance. www.saloniksv.com. T: 0212 316 1083. B6.

28 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 29 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE kaşkarıkas, and croquettes. Mon-Sat 7.30pm- immigrants from Crete. Try the special shrimp and MEYHANE & FASIL 2am. www.zarifi.com.tr. Çukurluçeşme Sok. 13, sea bream . Mon-Sat 5pm-12am. Elmadağ Meyhanesi Sıraselviler, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 5480. C5. www.sidika.com.tr. Şair Nedim Cad. 38, Beşiktaş. Keeping traditional meyhane culture alive, this T: 0212 259 7232. A7 / B7. charming meyhane serves a selection of traditional Turkish, Greek and Armenian mezes, and almost modern meyhanes certainly something you haven’t tried before. Every Aheste Bars & Clubs Friday and Saturday a live band plays old classical This warm, retro-style restaurant offers 20 different 29 Food Bar Turkish favourites as well as modern popular songs. mezes from Turkey, Iran, Armenia and Greece, Ulus 29 Lounge’s new reincarnation, 29 Food Bar Mon-Thu 6:30pm-12am. Fri & Sat 6:30pm-1am. including favourites such as calamari with , maintains its impressive elegance with its stylish www.elmadagmeyhanesi.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. sweetbreads and artichoke confite. There are live décor and objects d’art. Must-tries include their Pak Apt. 30/A, Elmadağ, Taksim. jazz performances to enhance the evening. asparagus tempura and Peking duck roll; they also T: 0212 241 0320. B6. Daily 9am-1am. www.ahestegalata.com. make a mean Bloody Mary. Hacı Mimi Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. 30A, Beyoğlu. Daily 12pm-2am. www.group-29.com. Galata Meyhanesi T: 0212 245 4345. C5. Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı içi 71/1 Ulus. This meyhane serves the flavours of Turkish cuisine T: 0212 265 6181. Off map. as well as fasıl music, with a four-member group Duble Meze Bar including violin, kanun, oud and drum providing Duble is on the terrace of a building given to the 360istanbul Suada Club a quintessentially Turkish atmosphere. Mon-Sat Italian musician Giuseppe Donizetti, as a gift by Unique delicious cuisine, a warm ambience and 7.30pm-00.30am. www.galata.com.tr. Sultan Abdülmecit. The menu specialises in mezes a wonderful Bosphorus view combine with great Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 5/A, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. made with seasonal vegetables and seafood. music and house cocktails like the lifeguard and T: 0212 293 1139. C5. Wed, Fri and Sat nights are livened up by the music Pink Bikini in a lively, tropical atmosphere. of DJ Aslı Köse. Sun-Thu 7pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6.30pm- Daily 10am-1pm. www.360istanbul.com. Garibaldi Meyhanesi 2am.www.dublemezebar.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. Suada Club, Kuruçeşme Park, Beşiktaş. Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, this Beyoğlu 85A, Palazzo Donizetti, Pera, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 2636623. Off map. meyhane serves a rich selection of Turkish mezes T: 0212 244 0188. C5. and features a fine group of musicians playing the Anjelique best of Turkish classical music for a classic İstanbul Sıdıka Three-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a evening out. www.garibaldi.com.tr. With its quiet music and simple, wooden interior, combination of restaurant, club and bar. The sea- Mon-Sat 10am -1am. Perukar Çıkmazı 3, İstiklal Cad. Sıdıka’s menu is based on healthy Aegean cuisine. level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, Beyoğlu. T: 0535 719 0343. C5. There’s special focus on the cuisine of Cunda, an while the middle and top floors serve fine French island across from the town of Ayvalık, settled by dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes by Gurme Boncuk You’ll find home-style dishes and fresh fish in this nostalgically-decorated meyhane in a bustling street. Favourites on the menu include salt-cured and red snapper ‘kokoreç’. Mon-Sat D. www.gurmeboncuk.com.tr Asmalımescit Sok. 29, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 528 9891. C5.

Kalamata Meyhane Sortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple interior become even more inviting with live music performances five days a week. The venue is run by Elegant one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza Turkish Nightlife at its Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. address Daily 7:30pm-4am. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 258 8788. Off map. Best: Mor Meyhane Mor Meyhane is the ideal Latife Hanım Meyhanesi address for your celebrations, This meyhane with its ‘Republican’ theme is full of Passionate about fine food and non-stop entertainment? from New Year’s Eve to photographs of Atatürk and modern women of the Valentine’s Day, birthday new Turkish Republic, with Turkish classical songs Mor Meyhane supplies all that in its Beyoğlu and Kadıköy locations. playing round the clock. The meze selection is quite parties, weddings, or any varied; make sure to sample the topik and . uests experience a real feast, from special occasion. Sun-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am. fresh mezes to hot appetizers that www.latifehanim.com. İstiklal Cad. Bekar Sok. 22/A, Gappeal to both the palate and the Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 0068. C5. eye, main dishes and a wide selection of Safi Meyhane seasonal fruits. This modern meyhane in Şişhane serves mezes in In addition to the tempting menu, the the bar as well as the dining room. Home-style dishes feature for lunch, and the mezes include venue provides muic performances new flavours plus the venerable classics. Music including fasıl ensembles, soloist Mustafa ranges from 70s and 80s Turkish pop and classical. Ertürk, an Orientale show and DJs, providing www.safimeyhane.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, a colourful programme ranging from Şişhane. T: 0530 240 4908. C4. traditional to popular Turkish music and Zarif Bir Meyhane A Booming Good Time! dance. Operating at the entrance to this venue presents the İstanbul’s newest electronic music venue Kloster brings prominent guest DJs from original meyhane experience with its menu, music, cities including London, Amsterdam and Berlin. Featuring an amazingly colourful Tepebaşı Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 83/1, Beyoğlu. fasıl ensemble and blue-and-white décor. The menu stage, the three-storey club also hosts special themed parties. T: 0212 293 9821. offers delicious traditional meyhane-style dishes like stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries, the Armenian Hüseyin Mah. Kamer Hatun Cad. 22, Beyoğlu. T: 0533 258 9393. Kuşdili Cad. 99, Kadıköy T: 0216 345 8484 speciality topik made from lamb, courgette dish www.mormeyhane.com

30 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 31 NIGHTLIFE

well-known DJs. Daily 6.30pm-4am. from the 80s and 90s dominate the sounds during series of exhibitions and performances, presenting www.anjelique.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane weekends. Mon-Sat 5pm-1.30am. Milli Reasürans the finest examples of Turkish culture. The brick Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. A9. Çarşısı, 47-48, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. and stone building with its high central dome hosts T: 0212 343 0241. A6. many fascinating events including the Mevlevi Arabesque Sema Ceremony (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 7.30pm) A refreshing departure from the typical Lebanese Çubuklu 29 and the Hodja Pasha Dance Show (Tue & Thur restaurant with its predictable hummus, belly Overlooking the Bosphorus, Çubuklu 29 occupies 8pm, Sat & Sun 9pm) performed by the Hocapaşa dancers and oriental glitz, Arabesque successfully a spacious building illuminated by lanterns. In Dance Team. www.hodjapasha.com. Ankara Cad. combines the oriental spirit with contemporary addition to its pool open during the day. Tandoori Hocapaşa Hamamı Sok. 3B, Sirkeci. nightlife. With walls decorated by famous Beirut lamb, with and grilled meatballs are T: 0212 511 4626/4636. E5. graffiti artist Yahya Muhakkin. Daily 8pm-2am just some of the specialties on offer. Taşkışla Cad. 19, Demokrasi Parkı Yanı, Maçka. Daily 6pm-3am. www.cubuklu29.com. Indigo T: 0212 231 0356. B6. Barbaros Cad.Paşabahçe Yolu 22, Çubuklu. Known as a temple of electronic music, this club T: 0216 322 2829. Off map. offers a vibrant programme based on alternative Babylon and electronic music, with new sounds and Enjoy concerts, an extensive menu, cocktail Fenix İstanbul reflecting the developments in the world of pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world This restaurant and nightclub, with a magnificent music. Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.babylon.com.tr. high-ceilinged bar decorated with palm trees, www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. serves dishes from around the world. One of the Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. T: 0212 292 7368. C5. city’s most elegant spots, it offers some of the T: 0212 244 8568. C5. finest food and DJ performances anywhere. Babylon Lounge www.fenixistanbul.com. Thu-Sat noon-4am. Jolly Joker İstanbul One of New York’s most cutting edge music Sun-Wed noon-2am. Nispetiye Cad. 79, . With its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this venues, Babylon Lounge is a place where young T: 0212 265 5588. Off map. is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and Turkey. Among the many genres performed are develop new ideas and projects. With its own Fosil live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone With its unusual retro décor and unique cocktails house and techno. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-2am. and everyone making good music. such as Libido and Oh Papatya, Fosil is the perfect www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. place for a night of rock music, from Jim Morrison Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. Jurnal Sok. 4, Asmalımescit. to Elvis, The Beatles and Guns N’ . T: 0212 245 3800. C5. Mon & Tue 4pm-midnight. Wed-Sat 4pm-4am. Kiki www.fosil.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K:3, Cocktails made with homemade syrups, a Biber Bar Karaköy. T: 0507 812 8531. D5. comfortable environment and great music come Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks together at this gastropub featuring Italian, with jazz or lounge music in the background. The Garajistanbul Spanish and world cuisine. DJs play every night. menu of mainly İstanbul and Southern American A contemporary performance arts centre located Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri & Sat 5pm-5am, Sun cuisines includes to burgers, salads, tapas, in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc 5pm-midnight. www.kiki.com.tr. Kiki Sıraselviler, filet mignon and chicken shish . theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. Sıraselviler Cad. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5373. C5. Daily L & D & N. www.biberbar.com. Daily 8:30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom Kiki Ortaköy, Osmanzade Sok. 8, Ortaköy. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Off map. Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. T: 0212 258 5524. Off map. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. Bird Kloster Unique flavours from world cuisines are served up Gaspar The work of a host of talents, this venue is one in a warm atmosphere dominated by music from Located in an old three-storey, high-ceilinged of the latest on İstanbul’s nightlife scene. With a the 50s and 60s. The menu here features mostly building this Karaköy venue is always full to capacity of almost 2,000, and featuring three large meat dishes with impressive portions, such as overflowing thanks to its quality French food floors and a terrace, it welcomes top local and tartare and green curries, with their own special and great music. Mon-Thu 10am-12am. Fri&Sat foreign DJs and outstanding names in electronic cocktails. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm. www.bird.com.tr. 10am-4am. Müeyyeyzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. music. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Kamer Hatun Cad. 10, Meşrutiyet Cad. 103, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. Arapoğlan Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 6660. D5. Beyoğlu. T: 0533 258 9393. C5. T: 0212 245 7085. C4. Gold Bar Le Fumoir Pavillion Bleu Lounge & Grill Gold Bar has a brilliant, six-metre long aquarium. This Bar In The Çırağan Palace Kempinski With a Bosphorus view and comfortable ambience, The main area, available for small parties, is İstanbul boasts a splendid view directly onto the Bleu serves tempting cocktails and gourmet flanked by a comfortable seating area with low bosphorus. With palm trees, water pipe service flavours all day long. In addition, they feature a sofas. This welcoming venue also features a lush and comfortable seating, the venue exudes different style of live music every day of the week. green terrace, a perfect place to take a pleasant Romance Savour, premium cognacs, malt whiskies, Daily 10am-2am. www.ritzcarlton.com. break from the bustle of city life. Daily 9am-2am. exclusive wines, champagnes, and cocktails. Ritz Carlton, İstanbul, Askerocağı Cad. 6, Şişli. Every Wed&Fri 7pm-11pm Lounge / Chill Out DJ Daily 7/24. www.kempinski.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, T: 0212 334 4188. B6. sessions. www.editionhotels.com. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. Off Map. The İstanbul Edition Hotel, Büyükdere Cad. 136, Chilai Levent. T: 0212 317 7700. Off map. Limoncello Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue Named after the famous Italian liqueur, this brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife Hayal Kahvesi exclusive boutique nightspot boasts colourful with its unusual contemporary décor and This popular venue hosts live performances by furniture under trees, fresh fruit cocktails, bold dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The different bands every night. and performances by top name DJs. Tue-Sat three-floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. 10pm-3am. www.limoncello.com.tr. Süleyman Seba bistro, lounge, bar, dining room, pastry shop, Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. Cad. 34, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 9822. B7. c h a r c u t e r i e a n d a r t g a l l e r y . M o n - S a t 1 0 p m - 2 a m . Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 60, Bebek. Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 4pm-4am. Lucca T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. Spacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café Corridor Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of This dark and intimate bar located in the deepest T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. corner of the Milli Reasürans Çarşısı (market) hosts This is one of İstanbul’s most popular bars, and art shows and photographic exhibitions. House Hodjapasha Culture Center popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 10am- music during weekdays changes to 80s tunes later This cultural centre located in the historic in the evening; alternative rock and popular hits Hocapaşa Hamam presents an ever-changing

32 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE

top floor. Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am. Kuruçeşme. Sortie welcomes its guests with Turkish overlooking the Bosphorus, are followed by live www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. music on Wednesdays and R&B on Sunday nights. percussion and dance shows. The deluxe drink T: 0212 258 0777. A9. Daily 7pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr. Muallim Naci menu serves a host of original, tempting cocktails. Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. Off map. Daily 11pm-5am.Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Kuruçeşme. Nublu T: 0212 236 7256.Off map. One of New York’s most cutting edge music Suada Club venues, Nublu is a place where young musicians İstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge Hittpera create, discuss, meet the masters, and develop from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this new ideas and projects. Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and www.nubluistanbul.net. Voyvoda Cad. 2/1, Karaköy Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location nonstop entertainment. Tue-Sat 11:30pm-4am. Meydanı, Karaköy. T: 0212 249 7712. D5. in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palace is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 594 1139. C4. Nupera for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage Club entertains its guests throughout the summer Off Pera de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of with live performances. www.suadaclub.com.tr. A popular venue for musicians and actors, Off restaurants, a bar and private club with an open Pera provides a nonstop programme of Turkish Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. terrace during the summer – something for music. This pop spot in Beyoğlu’s Asmalımescit GusGus everyone. Daily 6pm-12am. Fri&Sat 6pm-4am. Sultana’s 1001 Nights Show neighbourhood holds different themes through 13 Dec, 10pm, www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, Venue offering authentic Turkish-themed shows. the week: Tuesday nights with Asu Maro, selections Babylon, p. 28 Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring from classical, opera and famous musicals by shows that begin with belly dancing, followed by Güvenç Dağüstün on Wednesdays. Orient Bar folk dances and a harem show. . Daily 4pm-4am. Gönül Sok. Canova Apartmanı Breakfast, Turkish and Mediterranean treats and a 2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 51/B, Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. 14/A, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 249 2697. C4. wide variety of snack dishes served on an elegant. Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. The meals are complemented by original cocktails Scotch Disco T: 0212 219 3904. B6. Masquerade Club plus domestic and foreign wines served all day. With a 20-year history, this venue offers Turkish Famous R&B singers and DJs from Turkey and Daily 10pm-2am. www.jumeirah.com. Pera Palace Supper Club music and DJs, offering the unique experience of abroad perform music from around the world Hotel Jumeriah, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this the music halls of the 1980s. Serves beer and fresh at this new club with a capacity of 2000. Making Beyoğlu. T: 0212 3774000. C4. nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and popcorn. Daily 10:30pm-5am. house music, and an alternative menu. Daily www.scotchclub.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 29/1, a name for itself with its unusual concepts and Pop 11:30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 5696. A6. performances, Masquerade creates a visual and This venue in Nupera has something to suit every Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. musical celebration. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 11pm-5am. taste, playing top hits from the 80s to the present. Şamdan Etiler Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı No:38/26 Gayrettepe. With its informal atmosphere and great selection Topless Teras Offering a magnificent interior and selections T: 0212 347 1347. Mobile: 0533 027 0387. of drinks, Pop has become one of the most popular This popular İstiklal Caddesi meeting spot at the from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular mas queradeistanbul.com. Off map. spots in Pera. Wed, Fri, Sat 12am-4am. top of the Fitaş building boasts a terrace with a entertainment spot at night. The evening starts Members İstanbul www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı. magnificent view over the Golden Horn, with a with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the An impressive-looking Bosphorus nightspot where, T: 0212 245 6070. C4. host of special events including tango dances on night progresses. Daily 8:30pm-5am. Wednesday nights. Daily 5pm-2am. İstiklal Cad. 12, www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. the excellent DJs play mostly Turkish hits, with the Public House K:6, Fitaş Binası. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2451. C4. Office: İhsan Aksoy Sok. 5/8, Çamlık, Etiler. fun continuing until the crack of dawn. This cosy pub is ideally equipped to host parties T: 0212 257 3042. Off map. Tue-Sat 10pm-4am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. and other special events. The cold and hot snacks, Unter, Karaköy T: 0212 236 7357. Off map. shots and pitcher cocktails are delicious. Unter’s ground floor is a café, the next is a lounge, Zelda Zonk Minimüzikhol Daily 8am-2am. Asmalımescit Mah. 9, Beyoğlu. and the top floor a party space. Try the Caipiroska Newly opened on the upper floor of the Gradiva If you’re out to avoid ‘subculture’, set your own T: 0534 211 6062. C4. cocktail with Jaegermeister, and the long relaxed Hotel overlooking the Golden Horn, Zelda Zonk Sunday breakfasts. Private overnight parties with has a simple menu, but after 11pm it turns into a trend and dance to world music, local sounds and Reina electronic beats, then check out this new spot music by DJs promise great entertainment until bar with DJ performances until dawn. Mon-Sat Gazing over the Bosphorus, you can begin dawn. Tue-Thu 9am-12am, Fri 9am-2am, Sat 9am- 10pm-4am.www.gradivahotels.com. Bankalar Cad. in hip Cihangir. DJ performances, special events your night out dining in one of its six different and a very unique atmosphere created by to its 2am, Sun 9am-10pm. www.unter.com.tr. 2/1, Karaköy. T: 0530 382 3822. D4. restaurants featuring diverse themes. Kemankeş, Karaali Kaptan Sok. 4, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. unusual decor. 11pm-4am. www.minimuzikhol.com. Entertainment every night with chill out, pop and Zilly Pera T: 0212 244 5151. D5. Sıraselviler Cad. Soğancı Sok. 7, Cihangir. Turkish pop music. Very glamorous; phone to make Falling somewhere in between a disco and T: 0212 245 1996. C5. reservations. Daily 7pm-4am. www.reina.com.tr. W Lounge nightclub, Zilly is one of Istanbul’s most popular Mojo Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. A9. One of the trendiest spots in İstanbul, hosting a music spots. Sporting a 70s atmosphere, Zilly keeps Just off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented by multitude of parties accompanied by fine music. the fun going until dawn with old and new Turkish Sofyalı 9 Extensive menu, stylish decoration and ambiance. songs. Tue-Sat 11pm-4:30am. Meşrutiyet Cad. 69, artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its alternative Very popular two-storey restaurant with the rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as well as live Tue-Sat 24 hours. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Beyoğlu. T: 0533 575 3397. C4. atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean . Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. music by local and foreign bands on Mon-Sat Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 T: 0212 381 2121. B7. 10pm-4am. Daily 12am-4am. meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. wıne bars www.mojobeyoglu.com. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, www.sofyali.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2927. Rouge C5. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. TURKISH MUSIC Located near , this classic wine Nardis Jazz Club Sortie Cahide On5 bar has over 260 Turkish and foreign wines, A true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live Located in the old Bosphorus neighbourhood of Guests are given different J&B keys with accompanied by local cheeses, appetizers and music nightly modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz designs based on the concept of each room at main courses. Pleasant atmosphere, with walls works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and Cahide, which takes a very unique approach filled with art. Daily 10am-2am. Lamartin Cad. 11/3, chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Sat 8:30am- Guts to entertainment. Bellboys take guests and Taksim. T: 0212 237 0190. B6. 1:30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Galata Kulesi Sok. 8, 5 Dec, 11:30pm, their luggage to the selected rooms. Fairy tale Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. Babylon, p. 28 characters approach in an erotic and humorous Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique way. In the wee hours, Cahide’s show team Owned by the Anemon Hotels, Sensus doubles Nomads as a wine and cheese shop. Close to the historic At Nomads, dishes are served with bread on presents a wet dance performance under a shower. Daily 7pm-2am. Kadırgalar Cad. Maçka Demokrasi Galata Tower, this typical wine bar boasts large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s exclusively local cheeses and wines. Daily 10am- Parkı içi 2, Maçka. T: 0532 513 7789. B6. sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a 10pm. www.sensuswine.com. Anemon Hotel bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with Club Albüm Galata, Bereketzade, Büyükhendek Cad. 5, pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the Turkish pop parties every night, at this nightspot Kuledibi. T: 0212 245 5657. D4.

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Brand New Designs Sparkling Designs for the New Year Enchanting Hollywood celebrities, Australian designer For anyone in search of famous brand name evening gowns and dazzling Alex Perry’s collection stands out designs for a brilliant New Year’s Eve, Beymen awaits! with its metallic tone designs that fit close to the body and he 2014-15 autumn-winter gown collection emphasise its natural lines. is setting the trends for the season, with Tsequinned embroidery, metallic tones and lace detailing. The long, form-fitting dresses by Reem Acra, Rene Ruiz and Nicole Miller are sure to be a centre of attention for any New Year’s Eve event. Offering a feminine silhouette and eye- catching style, Tadashi Shoji stands out from the crowd with its special lacework. Elie Saab’s 2014- 15 collection is the top choice of trendsetting personalities including Nicole Kidman and Catherine Zeta Jones, adding delicate, feminine lines with floral motifs and burgundy, black and plum tones.

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36 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 SHOPPING SHOPPING

galleries. With its national and international brands, Demirören İstiklal SHOPPING CENTRE MAP pleasant cafes, restaurants and quality nightlife, Opened upon the rebuilding of the Sin-Em Han, it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s home in the 1930s to the famous Saray pudding elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, metre venue is home to a host of famous shops Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn to, a quick dolmuş ride from Taksim Square. A6. technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. Daily 10am-10pm. www.demirorenistiklal.com. T: 0212 249 9999. İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. SHOPPING CENTRES C5. Galleria Akasya Acıbadem A major shopping centre featuring world This largest shopping mall on İstanbul's Asian side brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, offers famous world brands, 10 movie theatres, a entertainment, sports activities and striking concert hall, a theatre, and Kidzania, where children interiors. Daily 10am-10pm. can meet, play and take part in over 60 different www.galleria-atakoy.com. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. activities. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ak-asya.com. T: 0212 559 9560. Off map. Çeçen Sok. Koru Etabı, Koru Kule, K:36, 192, Acıbadem. T: 0216 428 3132. Off map. The city centre’s largest shopping mall lets you Akmerkez shop any time you want. In addition to a slew Offering the best local and foreign brands in of top-rated stores, it also boasts cafés and an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an restaurants offering flavours from around the array of entertainment and social venues, Joker world, a movie theatre, state theatres and the Fun Entertainment Park promises a good time for Lab Entertainment World for children. Daily 10am- children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at 10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com. Büyükdere Cad. the Ulus entrance, serves Italian cuisine. 22/A, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map. Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. İstinyePark Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. Major Shopping Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the In addition to the top brands this shopping place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Shopping Centre Map (p.40). centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, Areas Aqua Florya Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, Akaretler Row Houses This shopping mall offering world-class brands and demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over Built in 1875 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz, the entertainment hides an added surprise: The İstanbul stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. beautiful Akaretler Row Houses has a new lease on Aquarium, the largest thematic aquarium in the world. including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. life since its huge renovation. New life has been Learn about aquatic life in the world's oceans, lakes and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition breathed into this Beşiktaş neighbourhood and it’s Çukurcuma and rivers, and enjoy a meal at one of the many cafes to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie now one of İstanbul’s foremost cultural quarters, World-renowned for its antique shops, this and restaurants overlooking the Marmara Sea. theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. offering a host of colourful art galleries, stylish area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman Daily 10am-10pm. www.aquaflorya.com.tr. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, cafés and restaurants, and a tempting selection neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered Şenlikköy Mah.Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5555. of designer shops. Officially named Şair Nedim through the streets. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat-Sun T: 0212 574 5900. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Caddesi, this sloping street, with the W Hotel as 9am-7pm. Çukurcuma Cad. Firuzağa Mah. Forumİstanbul a prominent landmark, is lined with commercial Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. City’s In addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an galleries such as Rampa, Art On Gallery and T: 0505 709 3857. C5. City’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and style. Galerist, and design house Autobahn. Find luxury Leading national and international brands, extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of jewel-encrusted pieces at Sevan Bıçakçı, tasteful Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and linens and household items at Haremlique, and Alongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 biggest aquarium. The mall also boasts a 10-screen movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, prepare for the Big Day at Vakko Wedding. Should to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is one of movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of you need a break after all that browsing and peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: shopping, tempting treats await at stylish Cafe lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. delight (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural Jurassic Land, an 8000- family entertainment Minyon (part of W Hotel), or taste top Turkish wines www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am- paired with cheeses at Corvus. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. www.akaretler.com.tr. Süleymen Seba Cad. rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a 10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products Maçka, Beşiktaş. B7. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. and other food items are available. Mon-Sat Guidelines Shopping Centre Map (p.42). Bağdat Caddesi 8:30am-6:30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. Named after Murat IV’s successful campaign to This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Kanyon recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s İstiklal Caddesi establishments recommended by the editors of Major shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the Where Magazine and includes regular theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye primary neighbourhood of the foreign community advertisers. atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world and Caddebostan is especially well known for its as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented gradually attained a European look with the arrival MAP LOCATIONS performances and dazzling colours and sounds. Note that the references in bold at the end of by local youth and business people. Many top of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early Galata, eventually forming a new community in each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates Turkish and world brands have at least one shop on the street maps on pages 70-71. breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. here. Well served by public transportation, this 17th-century İstanbul. The allure of the street www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. faded in the 1970s but was followed by major bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes T: 0212 317 5300. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major information is an excellent place to go window shopping and Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, Mall of İstanbul people watching. Off map. varies between 8% and 18% and is generally restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors Offering both indoor and outdoor street shopping, Covered (Grand) Bazaar Beyoğlu. C5. can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 this mall contains around 350 shops, elegant Built in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s to 13% of these amounts, respectively. gourmet restaurants, cinemas, arts events and Nişantaşı oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking Look for shops with signs for Global Refund MoiPark for children. One of Turkey’s largest Nişantaşı is both a lively and bustling in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. Each (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund shopping malls, it also features the Traditional neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive (T: 0212 546 0790). street in the Bazaar is named after the specific Art Street offering examples of Turkish art. shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak Daily 10am-10pm. www.mallofistanbul.com.tr.

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Sapphire historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the SHOPPING CENTRE MAP At 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting city's tallest combined shopping mall and the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and andresidential building; it’s also Turkey’s first foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings stamps. Eminönü, Çadırcılar Cad. 103-203, in the world. Combining western, traditional and Beyazıt. E4. modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern shopping experience with prestigious world brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. Bookstores www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Eski D&R Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. T: 0212 268 8080. Offers a broad selection of books, music, films, Shopping Centre Map (p.40). electronics, games, gifts and stationary in a Trump Towers Mall modern and relaxed atmosphere, with 45 stores This mall that offers shopping, movies, a place to throughout İstanbul. Check website for the nearest perform music, a gym and a convention hall also store. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dr.com.tr. has a play center and ice skating school for kids. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K:1, Daily 10am-10pm. www.trumpistanbul.com.tr. 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. Karkuyusu Sok. 19, Şişli. T: 0212 348 7867. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Vialand Turkey’s first world-class mega theme park offers Carpets a host of different entertainment alternatives including a show centre, shopping centre, a 5000- Agora Halı seat auditorium plus a train, a roller coaster and This amazing store’s 18,000-piece private other rides and theme zones. www.vialand.com.tr. collection includes regional carpets such as Old Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Mah. Eyüp. T: 0212 618 9797. Kazak, , Sivas, and Uşak, plus the Off map. exciting Contemporary Art collection. www.agorarug.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. Zorlu Center Türbedar Sok. 9, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 528 7441. E4. This mall in the heart of the city is home to luxury boutique stores including Beymen, plus Turkey’s Loomart first outlets of brands such as Brooks Brothers, When it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin, Pomellato, Stella committed to the best in carpet design. Its McCartney and Superdry. The venue also has 14 huge collection includes unusual antique pieces cinemas, including two VIP cinemas with 1,600 from Kerman, Konya and (Iran), funky seats each. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zorlucenter.com. contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Beşiktaş. colours, and woven kilims. Some of its larger T: 0212 444 9496. Off map. creations as the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence of the President of Turkey! Daily 8:30am-7:30pm. www.loomart.com. On the boutiques floor of ANTIQUES AND The Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu, Askerocağı Cad. 9, COLLECTIBLES Elmadağ. T: 0212 252 5095. B6.

Horhor Antique Centre Mevlana Rug Store This seven-storey building is famous with local Carries the best collection of carpets from each antique collectors, and each object here has a region of Turkey. Carpets of wool on wool, wool Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. story, from armour worn by an English knight in on cotton, silk on silk also carries semi-old and Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 1000. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French old carpets from all around the world with a staff aristocrat. Daily 10am-6pm. www.horhor.com. since 1950. Daily 7:30am-9:30pm.Sultanahmet Mah. Marmara Forum Optimum Kırk Sok. 24, Horhor, . E2. Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 1260. The Marmara Forum shopping centre is home to Bringing the outlet concept into the city centre, F4. world brands, and brings new ideas and trends Optimum İstanbul serves nearly nine million visitors Khaftan Art & Antique Nakkaş A delightful venue hosting a collection of fine to Turkey. In addition to famous men’s, women’s a year in the bustling neighbourhood of Kadıköy In İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. and kids’ clothing and lingerie brands – including on the Asian side. In addition to famous brands remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, Massimo Dutti, Benetton, Mango, Lacoste, DKNY, like Tommy Hilfiger, Fracassetti and Diesel, you’ll restored 6-century Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, GAP and Armani Kids – you’ll also find top national find local brands like Derimod, Vakko and Atasay. offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the engravings and maps collected both in Turkey and international jewellery brands like Atasay, There’s a huge daylit food court and open-air tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this terraces, plus a 540 m2 ice skating rink. and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by Gülaylar, and Swarovski. The mall is also column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting Daily 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings home to 15 cinemas, and the largest Food Court shopping adventure. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. İstiklal Sok. 10/4, Yenisahra, Ataşehir. and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-8pm. in İstanbul, with 65 different cafes and restaurants. www.khaftan.com. Sultanahmet, Şifa Hamamı Sok. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 13, T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. And not forgetting the two separate terraces with 16, T: 0212 458 5425. F5. F4 / F5. views of the Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm. Palladium Portakal Art And Culture House www.marmara-forum.com.tr. Osmaniye, Largest shopping centre in İstanbul’s Asian side. The Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts Çobançeşme, Koşuyolu Bulvarı 3, Bakırköy. In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and Clothing – Children and culture for three generations, since early 20th T: 0212 414 9494. an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey Miki House Shopping Centre Map (p.38). century provide art consultancy services for private residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a Japan’s most famous and prestigious children’s museums, institutions and special collections. Metro City colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall brand, Miki House is a favourite for boys and girls Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm. www.rportakal.com. Accessible by subway, this shopping centre also houses world-renowned brands including aged up to ten years old. There’s a vast choice of Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 8, Nişantaşı. offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, items from clothing, bags and packs, a wide range T: 0212 225 4637. A6. is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. of shoes, toys, hats and other accessories. and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart- www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Sahaflar Çarşısı Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mikihouseturkey.com. casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am- Halk Cad. 8/B, Yeni Sahra, Kozyatağı. The oldest market to have survived from Ottoman Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. 24/B, Nişantaşı. 10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, T: 0216 663 1500. Off map. times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the T: 0212 236 3649. A6.

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Gucci Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 35-1, Nişantaşı. Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, T: 0212 230 3752. A6. luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear SHOPPING CENTRE MAP collection and much more. Daily 10am-7:30pm. BCBG Max Azria www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, The choice of many Hollywood celebrities like Paris Hilton, Carmen Electra, Eva Mendes and Teşvikiye. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. Sharon Stone, Max Azria caters to women who H&M prefer a modern style. Extensive product line Operating in cities around the world since 1947, offers casual wear to evening dresses, shoes and H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, handbags. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. women and children at attractive prices, and also www.bcbgmaxazriagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. Bostan Sok. 4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 2242. A6. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Brandroom Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands Massimo Dutti inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von The perennial choice of people unwilling to Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, compromise on their appearance in a busy Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania 211/310, Etiler.T: 0212 282 0939. and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of Shopping Centre Map (p.40). cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Mavi Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. Appealing to a vast range of tastes in jeans and casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand Bottega Veneta also offers exclusive concept products for special Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. designs offering elegance and luxury. www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. Shopping Centre 235/238, Etiler. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre Clothing – Men Clothing – T: 0212 282 0423-24. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). 463, Sarıyer.T: 0212 335 6790. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Corentte Men & Women Network Known for its made-to-measure shirts and suits, Network is a global brand inspired by the Chanel Armani plus silk and cashmere neckties, the company multicultural character of the 21st century, World-renowned French brand Chanel offers Armani’s İstanbul branch offers the trendsetting uses fabrics from famous brands such as Charles introducing new trends for men and women. a wide range of products from ready-wear to brands Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Clayton, Loro Piana, Valentino, Dormeuil, Vitale Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.network-tr.com. accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel Jeans, EA7 and Armani Junior all in one place. Barberis Cononico, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, Fratelli Italia De Delfino. www.corentte.com. You’ll also find a wide range of accessories T: 0212 236 6579. A6. Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı. including watches, glasses, perfumes, jeans, celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi lingerie and jewellery. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 41, Ralph Lauren T: 0212 247 0445. Off map. Cad. Nazen Apt. Maçka. T: 0212 368 6300. A6. Nişantaşı. A6. Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets Damat/Tween give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph Dior The Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists Burberry Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the Highly distinguished world brand with John of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool Clothing for women, men, children and babies classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ralphlauren.com. İstinye jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the www.damat.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 63, Nişantaşı. www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Sarıyer. choice of top world personalities. Daily 10am- T: 0212 241 5516. T: 0212 343 8550-51. A6. A6. T: 0212 345 7012. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). 10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, Sarıyer. Ermenegildo Zegna Dolce & Gabanna Tom Ford T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). The brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport The creation of Italian designers Domenico One of the world’s most prestigious brands, famed and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, this famous brand for its outlandish, unique styles, this store presents Escada friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic dazzles the eyes with its brilliant designs. The new one of the designer’s most astounding collections Prestigious international fashion house offering colours appeal to both sight and touch. collection makes heavy use of wool with black, gold in a contemporary atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am- luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. and lamé designs. Daily 10am-10pm. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad 46/B, Nişantaşı. collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. www.dolcegabbana.com. Zorlu Center, Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7575. A6. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3398. T: 0212 241 6500. A6. Off map. Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 247 8483. A6. Zara Hugo Boss Emporio Armani Spanish brand offering men’s, women’s and Fendi Bringing together modern accessories and casual ’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara The Italian brand has launched a new boutique and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. which will house handbags, shoes, small leather inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, glasses and watches while renewing itself with the Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.zara.com. Metro City goods, watches, jewellery. Daily 10am-10pm. bodycare products and more, under lines including appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 00 44. Zorlu Center, Koru Sok. 2, 180, Beşiktaş. and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss Shopping Centre Map (p.38). T: 0212 999 9810. Off map. Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. www.emporioarmani.com. İstinyePark Shopping www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Centre 519, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6110. Louis Vuitton İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Clothing - Women Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and T: 0212 345 6001. accessories from the famous monogrammed Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Barbara Bui Giorgio Armani leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Reflecting the energy and strength of the urban La Misura The miraculous Italian line that shapes fashion with www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, A leader in custom tailoring, La Misura designs a its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its woman, Barbara Bui has represented sophisticated Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. A6. wide range of made-to-measure suits, tuxedos, casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily Parisian style for 27 years. This season’s collection coats, shoes, accessories and more. 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı embodies a powerful rock spirit, and sculptural Max Mara www.lamisura.com.tr. Levent Cad. 54, 1. Levent. Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. designs. Mon-Thu 10am-8pm. Fri & Sat 10am- Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic T: 0212 283 0022. Off map. T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). 8.30pm. Sun noon-8pm. St. Regis İstanbul, styles, providing a casual look for women of all

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ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.maxmara.com. Boyner Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6. T: 0212 296 0012. GAMZE SARAÇOĞLU—A member sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and of the Fashion Designers Association, Saraçoğlu has Miu Miu worked for brands like Zara, Marks & Spencer and housewares departments offer a vast selection of Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu Apple. Inspired by life and humanity, her designs are local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the all expressions of her joy and positive outlook. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. www.gamzesaracoglu.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5070. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Isparta Palas 19/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 6973. İPEK Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Bağdat Cad. 360, Sarıyer. T: 0212 329 8158. KRAMER—İpek Kramer is an important brand in Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). haute couture nightwear in Turkey. www.ipekkiramer. com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 363, Harvey NicholS Prada Etiler. T: 0212 282 0143. GÖNÜL PAKSOY—Creativity Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this Considering fashion, luxury and style a mission that that bears the marks of Turkish culture and history. ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over Kapalıçarşı, Kürkçüler No:22/46 Beyazıt goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, From clothes to accessories, shawls, pillows and 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer Tel: +90 212 527 5553 and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the slippers, all of her designs are unique, special and labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear, Nişantaşı, Teşvikiye Cad. Atiye Sok. world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. reflective of her inner world. Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 1, cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also No:1/A Nişantaşı Tel: +90 212 258 5911 - 12 www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. Teşvikiye. T: 0212 236 0209. ÖZGÜR MASUR—Always including premium brands. Daily 10am-10pm. striving for innovation and uniqueness in his collec- www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Çemberlitaş, Mollafenari Mah. T: 0212 368 8450. A6. tions, Özgür Masur is especially noted for his low Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. Tavukpazarı Sok. No:27 Çemberlitaş necklines, miniskirts and shorts, and finely-crafted, Tel: +90 212 514 4014 - 34 Saint Laurent T: 0212 319 1155. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Known For His Designs Aimed At Daring, Feminine bold, brilliant and sexy designs. www.ozgurmasur. [email protected] Women, The French Designer’s Shops Offer A com. Ihlamur Yolu Cad., Can Apt. 11/5, Nişantaşı. Vakko T: 0212 233 0678. ÖZLEM SÜER—With avant garde, This leading Turkish brand presents its own Range Of Bold Pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. neo-romantic designs, Özlem Süer offers alternatives interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features and women’s sections were built to the same www.ysl.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. ATIL KUTOĞLU for day or night. Party dresses, bridal gowns, concert women’s wear while remaining true to its superior Turkish delight, cologne, candles, confections, plan. Daily 7am-12am. Cankurtaran Mah. Ayasofya Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3390. Off map. designs and boutique designs in over 60 shops fabric and manifacturing quality. cards and very special fabrics. Daily 9am-8pm. Meydanı 2, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 3535. F4. abroad. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Salvatore Ferragamo Daily 10am-10pm. www.vakko.com.tr. www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 15, www.ozlemsuer.com. Özlem Süer House: Büyükçiftlik Creativity and passion have been passed down Turkish Designer İstinyePark, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 501/504 İstinye. Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5738. Özlem Süer T: 0212 345 5832. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Homewares through generations in the Ferragamo family, and Bağdat Cad. Plaj Yolu Sok. 12, Suadiye. Stores Suadiye: Kanyon Shopping Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 138/140, Mevlana Ceramic with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore T: 0216 445 9043. DERVİŞ-RAŞİT BAĞZIBAĞLI— Alhammam Levent. T: 0212 353 1080. A single store seeling their own line of quartz Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker A46—Stylish brand and destinations for women In addition to his achievements as a haute couture Shopping Centre Map A world of accoutrements of historical and Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, and ceramic plates, vases and tiles, all made for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the who want to remain elegant both day and night. designer, Raşit Bağzıbağlı is also on his way to (p.40). modern hammam culture including soaps, www.a46.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. AV Z011 AV 1002, Zincirlikuyu. locally. Every item includes its own certificate of brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great transforming his ready-wear brand B. Rushh into a authenticity. Daily 7:30am-9:30pm. copper products, scrubs and luffas, peshtemals, 42, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 9031. ARZU KAPROL— global brand. www.rasitbagzibagli.com. Levent Cad. T: 0212 708 3333. Off map. success. Daily 10am-8pm. Sultanahmet Mah. Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. towels and hammam bowls. An excellent place Arzu Kaprol couture reflects femininity, comfort and 34, 1.Levent. T: 0212 283 8772. SİMAY BÜLBÜL—The Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 517 1260. to find the perfect gift or to treat yourself. private use. www.arzukaprol.com. Serdar-ı Ekrem brand’s personality is infused with an urban feel of F4. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. Cad. Kamondo Apt. 22, Galata, Beyoğlu. Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm. www.alhammam.com.cn. the streets, reflected by those who wear them. Her Gift & Collectables Moser T: 0212 252 75 71. ATIL KUTOĞLU—With an emphasis Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye Cad. 10, Sofçuhan Girişi, Stella McCartney earthy designs feature unusual cuts, tooled leather on materials like silk, cotton, wool, cashmere and Cashmere House Find some of Europe’s best crystal, porcelain Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 512 2002. E4. The daughter of former Beatles member Paul and ragged details. www.sim-ay.com. Bereketzade Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite and silver here, boasting some of the world’s top leather in his collections, Atıl Kutuoğlu has a long Mah. Kuledibi, Kuleçıkmazı 17, Galata. McCartney, the British designer is known for latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and celebrity names as its fans. The collections include Armaggan list of international customers including Jessica T: 0212 292 7899. SONGÜL CABACI—Appealing to her creations for famous personalities including Kashmir, as well as genuine silk shawls produced Kosta Boda, Meissen, Orrefors, Georg Jensen, Venue offering its exclusive products that Alba, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Naomi Campbell and the woman in search of an elegant, avant-garde look, Madonna, Jude Law and Gwynneth Paltrow. in the Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide Haviland, Daum and Lalique. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. reinterpret the inspiration of Anatolia through Elizabeth Jagger. Known for his sleek eveningwear. Cabacı creates designs that epitomise the blending variety of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. www.moserturkey.com. Ebulula Cad. 47, 1.Levent. modern designs created in its own workshops. The Daily 10am-10pm. www.stellamccartney.com. www.atilkutoglu.com. Teşvikiye, Bostan Sok. 9/2, of plastic arts and fashion. www.songulcabaci.com. limited editions include jewellery and home textiles Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 260 6067. Hacı Mimi Mah.Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. Hoca Ali Yokuşu, www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. T: 0212 280 30 24. Off map. collections as well as custom clothing produced T: 0212 306 3396. Off map. BAHAR KORÇAN—World-renowned designer Bahar 25/1, Galata. T: 0212 245 9136. 49-51, Grand Bazaar, Beyazıt, Fatih. E4. Koçan uses handwoven silk, Japanese wool textiles, Paşabahçe Boutique using natural dyes—all exhibited in its seven-storey V2K Designers organic cotton and bamboo fiber plaits. Gali Collection, The The right address for delightful premium building. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and www.baharkorcan.org. Şahkulu Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem This home and marine collection features glassware, with special collections such as www.armaggan.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. Sok. Seraskerci Çıkmazı, Ferah Apt. 5, Galata, nature-inspired forms alongside contemporary Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 6292. A6. under its collection. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6855. CENGİZ ABAZOĞLU— hand-crafted silver jewellery. View the fine silver Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, This exclusive store's new Nuruosmaniye outlet www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 31/1, Starting as a designer of leather and ready-to-wear collection, and Gali-designed slippers to ward off as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and presents a wide variety of specially designed brands, this designer then opened his own workshop Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. the evil eye. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. objects, such as jewellery, naturally-dyed textiles, A6. where he features his haute couture collections. His www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all Valentino first boutique in Nişantaşı. www.cengizabazoglu.net. Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5242. under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home The Italian fashion designer’s elegant shops offer T: 0212 234 0138. A6. T: 0212 353 0730. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). ÇİĞDEM AKIN—Original and distinct designs pre- to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the haute couture designs dominated by red and pared for special days carrying all the features made Godiva Tash Corner Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art black, collectors’ pieces, women’s accessories and for individuals who follow the trend. Abdi İpekçi For a wonderful romantic moment or a surprise A warm, welcoming shop offering handmade Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. glasses. Daily 10am-10pm. www.valentino.com. Cad. Erkan Apt. 28/4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 248 1177. treat, this world-famous Belgian chocolatier is the designs, from silver and semiprecious stones, to www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. DENİZ KAPROL—One of Turkey’s foremost brands sweetest choice. Creating the finest chocolates imported earrings, necklaces and bracelets in Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. T: 0212 306 3392. Off map. in jewellery and accessory design, Kaprol embel- since 1926, Godiva’s tradition and legendary many colours and styles. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. Beymen Home lishes her elegant designs with meticulously chosen flavour await you. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12am- Kapalıçarşı, Koltuk Kazancılar Sok. 27, Eminönü. precious stones, and creates personal designs for her Leading world brands in everything from 6pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ünsal Apt. 6-4, B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 528 69 72. E4. Department Stores customers. The necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings decoration to home textiles, lighting to table T: 0212 246 4186. A6. and brooches in her exclusive collections are sure to design as well as one-of-a-kind products by Beymen impress. www.dkaprol.com. world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, Hiref Hammams Bağdat Cad. Noter Sok. Lütfiye Apt. 21/3, materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world of Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 386 8600. DİLEK HANİF—The Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now added first Turkish designer to present her own couture col- its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections to its (Bath of Roxelana) Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. feminine details that will never go out of fashion. lection at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Commissioned in 1556 to Mimar Sinan by Sultan offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Leading international brands also available. www.dilekhanif.com. Maçka Cad. Ralli Apt. 37/2, www.hiref.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Suleyman I, this hamam was named after his wife www.beymen.com.tr. Nişantaşı, Mon-Sat 10am- Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 3723-24. ELİF CIGIZOĞLU— Chakra Kanyon Shopping Centre 50-51, Levent. Hürrem Sultan, popularly known as Roxelana. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. Introduces volume even to the most classic garments The Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam has recently Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that T: 0212 353 5450. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). T: 0212 3734800. A6. Zorlu Center, Daily 10am- with the added origamic details. www.elifcigizoglu. been restored and reopened as one of the most softens when washed, in a variety of colours and com. Teşvikiye Cad. Alhamra Apt. 28/3, Nişantaşı. 10pm. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3300. Lokum İstanbul important treasures in the Ottoman-Turkish bath patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra ATIL KUTOĞLU Off map. Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s tradition. It was the first bath in which the men’s in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection

44 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 45 SHOPPING

and Montegrappa and jewellery by GARDIN. Daily quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, global brands including Armani and Dolce & 10am-10pm. www.artegioia.com. İstinye Park, the jewellery collection features the utmost in Leather & Fur Gabbana. One of the most widely known stores İstinye Bayırı Cad. R410, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6506. craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. Desa in the Grand Bazaar, it is also a favourite of many Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Akmerkez, www.tiarajewellery.com. Yavuz Sinan Mah. Established in 1972, this brand now operates with celebrities. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm. Nispetiye Cad. 116, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1901. Ragıp Gümüş Pala Cad. 69, Unkapanı. 73 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to www.kocderi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kürkçüler Çarşısı Shopping Centre Map (p.40). T: 0212 526 6363. F5. leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, 22/46, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 5553. E4. cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, Bvlgari Tiffany & Co. coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. Kuzu Deri Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and Renowned for its rare and magnificent diamonds, www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am- Keeping up with fashion with the finest leather and Tiffany & Co. has for decades been the world’s T: 0212 232 1290. Bağdat Cad. 443/A, Suadiye. 9pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, A6. fur goods since 1960, Kuzu Deri also has branches premier jeweller and America’s finest house of T: 0216 416 4368. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. in France, , Norway and Russia. Check out design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking Centre 398, Sarıyer. T: 0212 245 6739. their special new designs in their Zeytinburnu and Cartier Boutique designers and glamorous collections. Mon-Sat Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Nuruosmaniye stores. www.kuzu.com.tr. Bab-ı Ali Watches, wedding and engagement rings, 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Derishow Cad. 7/A Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 513 5898. F5. diamond jewellery and other luxury items are Atiye Sok. 9/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 8346. A6. Establishment providing fine leather products and available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat different designs for its customers since 1987. 10:30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi Urart Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye Perfumery İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out with its unique, modern designs that draw upon Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, Jo Malone Chopard Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5908. and interpret the very special works of Anatolian Try and choose the best perfumes from a broad World-renowned brand in jewellery and watches, civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). range of products from Jo Malone, which adheres Chopard has established itself as a landmark with www.urart.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. Koç Deri to the philosophy that perfume should match the its custom design products. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, T: 0212 246 7194. Established in 1968, Koç Deri manufactures for person’s skin and character. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Sat 10:30am-4:30pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 13/A, A6. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1775. A6.

Damas NIKE Since its founding, this brand has followed the Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 444 9496. trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and New Year’s Collections timepieces, and successfully represented world- Every one of Vakko’s New Year’s gift collections are carefully selected limited also available. Drop by for an alternative look at Yazzma renowned brands. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. editions; the perfect way to send your New Year’s wishes (p. 45). houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. This shop selling shawls, scarves, kaftans, slippers Büyükdere Cad. Kanyon Shopping Centre Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, and pillows in a riot of colours has something to 185/135/136, Levent. T: (0212) 353 0975. Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. suite any taste. The authentic products fit not only Shopping Centre Map (p.40). classic decor, but modern homes as well. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Gasia Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. www.yazzma.com. Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design Crate & Barrell Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok. 58-60, Eminönü. jewellery, specializing in 24 karat hand hammered With shops in , Mexico, Dubai and T: 0212 524 6841. E4. Singapore, this American furniture, decor and products. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.gasiajewelry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21/1, home accessories chain now has an İstanbul Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 2715. branch, offering stylish, comfortable products. Jewellery A6. Daily 10am-10pm. www.crateandbarrell.com.tr. Arte Gilan Zorlu Center, Levazım Mah. Koru Sok. 242, For those in search of fine watches, jewellery The number one name in haute couture jewellery in Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6575. Off map. and pens, this shop offers the ultimate in luxury Istanbul, Gilan brings the brilliance of the Ottoman, Akasya Acıbadem, Acıbadem Mah. Çeçen Sok. K:1, design. The high-prestige items include watches Roman and Byzantine eras back to life. 371, Üsküdar. T: 0216 510 5757. Off map. by Greubel Forsey, Cartier, IWC, Ulysse Nardin, Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com. Four Seasons Franck Muller, Montblanc, Graham, Corum, Bovet Hotel İstanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, Dantell and Girard-Perregaux; pens by Montblanc, OMAS Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 2163. Off map. İstinyePark A wonderful new place for fine bed linens, Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 459, Sarıyer. tablecloths, towels, pillows, napkins and bathrobes, T: 0212 345 5008. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). including the Dreamy Whites, Everyday Glamour, Spring Garden, Ecclechic and signed Tuvana Sevan Bıçakçı Büyükçınar’s Tuvanam For Dantell collections. Award-winning designer offering much sought- Special exclusive design accessories also available. after pieces, particularly the unique and highly Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dantell.com. valuable ring designs. Flawless handmade Teşvikiye Mah. Şakayık Sok. 56/17 Nişantaşı. diamond jewellery and special collections echoing Turkish handiwork have captured the attention of T: 0212 224 0867. A6. collectors worldwide. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Haremlique www.sevanbicakci.com. Barbaros Bulvarı, Zorlu Company offering own production of luxury Center Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6633. Off map. linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, Tektaş Watches & Jewellery upholstery and home accessories for the finest Offering luxury watch and jewellery designs homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am- by Patek Philippe, Audemars-Piguet, Breguet, 7pm. www.haremlique.com. Zorlu Center Koru Sok. Chopard, de Grisogono, Breitling, Gucci, Caran 2/194, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3843. Off map. d’Ache and Swiss Kubik. Daily 10am-10pm. İznik Works www.tektassaatcilik.com.tr. Kanyon Shopping A homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 1/9, 4. Levent. T: 0212 353 0555. İznik Works offers the centuries-old glory of Turkish Shopping Centre Map (p.40). tile and pottery making. The finest examples of Tiara İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the GIVENCY ‘DAHLA DIVIN’ Tiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection store. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.iznikworks.com. Sephora, İstinyePark Shopping Centre, of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. 82-84, Eminönü. L326-327, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of T: 0212 522 4242. F5. contemporary artists. Made of the highest

46 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 47 SHOPPING

bags, accessories, shoes, flats and boots in its single location. Daily 10am-10pm. Watches www.toryburch.com. Zorlu Center, IWC Schaffhausen Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Off map. The famous luxury watch brand presents its Pilot’s watch celebrating the history of aviation. Other notable models include Aquatimer Diver; the Turkish Delicacies Da Vinci; Ingenieur, celebrating technology and Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir engineering; and the Portofino, created in honour An international brand with an extensive exports of 1930 Portuguese sailors. Mon-Sat10.30am- network spanning the world from Japan to New 6.30pm. www.iwc.com/turkey. Mim Kemal Öke Zealand, the Middle East, , the United Cad. Altın Sok 4/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 4604. A6. Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish delight or lokum,hard candies, pastes, halvahs Panerai and dragees. Daily 8am-8pm. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, Opened in 1860 in the city of Florence as a watch- making workshop and a shop, Panerai has its Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804. C5. roots deep beneath the sea. Providing sensitive Bebek Badem Ezmesi measuring instruments for the Italian Army, the Sweet shop famous for its and company specialised in diving watches for special Örge Tulga Jewellery Design pastes. Products are always fresh and made from operations of the Undersea Commandos. Mon-Sat top-quality ingredients. Daily 9:30am-8pm. Nuruosmaniye Cad. Alibaba Türbesi Sok. 9am-6:30pm. www.panerai.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. Feyzullah Han 21/22 Çemberlitaş. A6. T: 0212 263 5984. Off map. T: 0212 62 8246 Faruk Güllüoğlu Wedding Clothes Popular both in Turkey and around the world, www.jomalone.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 33, Nişantaşı. Güllüoğlü in Karaköy has served traditional Turkish Beymen Bridal T: 0212 231 4416. A6. and other sweets for two centuries with the Beymen offers a host of bridal dresses to women preparing for that special day, and is Turkey’s La Déesse same meticulous care at every stage in the process. Turkey’s first ever perfume design boutique, La Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. exclusive source for top designers including Lanvin, Déesse is perfect for anyone who wants to create Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4, Karaköy. Christos, Amsale, Kenneth Pool, Romona, Keveza, his or her own special fragrance. You can also T: 0212 293 0910. D5. Valentino and Albertta Ferretti. Daily 10am- find the world’s most exclusive brands, including 8pm. www.beymen.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Keiko Mecheri, which was inspired by Turkish Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. The origins of coffee culture throughout the delight. www.ladeesse.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 31/2, world today can be traced back to Turkish coffee. Vakko Wedding Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 0001. A6. For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as Vakko style meets designer wedding gowns by Sephora green to be taken home, roasted in pans, world-renowned fashion brands including Oscar More than 10,000 brand-name products in a then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie by variety of categories from makeup to skin-care pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process Elia Saab, Marchesa, Vera Wang, Monique Lhuillier, plus exclusive secret formula products unique to had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of Reem Acra and Valentino, to create an epic Sephora. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sephora.com. coffee. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cad. Tahmis Sok. 66, www.vakko.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 27, L326-327, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. E4. Akaretler. T: 0212 258 6608. B7. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Shoes & Bags Christian Louboutin This season, timeless French designer Louboutin is renowned for his high-heeled, red-soled shoes. The Summerissima is one of the many striking shoes from the collection. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12am-8pm. www.christianlouboutin.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7870. A6.

Deriden Local distributor of world-famous brands inc DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. www.deriden.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi Sok. 1, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 7666. A9.

Giusseppe Zanotti Design Glamorous women’s footwear by this Italian designer is excellent for social functions with its dressy style that emphasizes femininity. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giuseppe-zanotti-design.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/26, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0745. A6.

Tory Burch Shıseıdo This U.S. designer, who made a name for himself Sephora, İstinyePark Shopping Centre, with his flats named after his mother Reva, offers a L326-327, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. luxurious collection of leather and patent leather

48 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 DINING best of İstanbul dining

Park Fora Since 1996, Park Fora has been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you instantly feel on entering its waterfront terrace. In keeping with the exclusive ambience, it’s matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. www.parkfora.com

Tapasuma Located in the Sumahan Hotel in Çengelköy on İstanbul’s Asian side, Tapasuma possesses a calming atmosphere, mainly thanks to its location overlooking the Bosphorus, plus its striking design with its attractive stone walls. In addition to seasonal fish, Tapasuma’s menu offers unusual Turkish and Mediterranean dishes and bite-size Turkish mezes. Some of its outstanding items include shank of Thracian lamb , and cooked on a griddle. Boat service from Kuruçeşme is available. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. www.tapasuma.com

The Galliard Special New Year Treats Christmas Bringing the fine dining and bar concept to Istanbul, The Galliard sports a simple, elegant design dominated by handmade crafts and selective art pieces. Tom’s Kitchen İstanbul, styled as an English brasserie, features Pudding Its extensive menu offers selections from Western Mediterranean, French, The traditional Christmas Spanish and Italian cuisines, plus a choice of 52 different cocktails. And that’s not exquisite dishes created by British Michelin-star chef Tom Aikens. Pudding includes a variety all – The Galliard also features live music. of dried fruits and nuts, plus Nispetiye Cad. Etiler Apt. 104/C, Etiler. T: 444 0 223 (reservations). he first branch outside London, Tom’s quintessential Christmas spices www.thegalliard.com Kitchen in İstanbul’s Zorlu Center also of , nutmeg and Tserves classic French dishes with a ginger. contemporary touch. Always using seasonal fruits and vegetables and top ingredients, this new eaterie offers something Vogue to appeal to Overlooking the sparkling Bosphorus from the top floor of BJK Plaza, Vogue every taste, plus Restaurant & Bar offers guests a staggering array of cuisines, from Mediterranean a special New to sushi. The elegant restaurant, with a stylish warm-toned interior, includes an Year’s Eve menu award-winning wine cellar for the perfect wine to accompany your meal. featuring some Spor Cad. 48, BJK Plaza, A Blok K:13. Akaretler, Beşiktaş very special items. T: 0212 227 2545. www.voguerestaurant.com Zorlu Center, Bulvar Katı AVZ, 134, Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 66 77. www.tomskitchen.com.tr

50 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 ADVERTISEMENT DINING DINING

heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra steak Tartare, and ‘Café de Paris’ filet mignon. Limonata Apartment attraction to this restaurant overlooking the HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. from an impressive selection of cocktails at the HHHH Daily L & D. www.zumarestaurant.com. unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. CAFE Bostan Sok. 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. A6.

Café Wien NaN Şişhane brıtısh European-style coffee and cakes made in house, NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 way to unwind; the wood-dominated, minimalist Tom’s Kitchen pastries and 18 coffees and to choose from, décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add Tom’s kitchen serves comfort food favourites in a including the famous Viennese blend. The warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world relaxed and environment, from breakfast to dinner. “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite. cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout. Menu highlights include fish pie, steak tartare, HHH Daily B, L & D. www.cafewien.com. www.nanşişhane.com Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, shepherd’s pie. HHH Daily B & L & D. Maçka Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. Şişhane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0174. C5. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 233 7860. A6. Ritim Galata T: 0212 353 6677. Off map. Çinili Cafe This café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a Serving Assyrian and regional specialities plus distinct historical atmosphere with its lively mood bıstro original dishes, this comfortable spot in the Grand and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal Bazaar is a boutique café also offering antiques spot for a break on your tour of Galata. Galata Mangerie Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul and specially designed giftware. The menu T: 0212 292 4929. C5. and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and includes sweet treats like apple pie and homemade wine list to match, plus a commanding view of cakes, and lunch dishes of mantı, hummus and Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the stuffed köfte from Turkey’s southeast. CAFE, restaurant& BAR lamb and hand-cut salad, the skewered Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Kapalıçarşı, Halıcılar Cad. 97, shrimp and Mangerie burger. HH Daily B, L & D. Eminönü. T: 0212 520 9504. E4. Ada Bosphorus www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69/3, It is an ideal place to relax while sampling Fes Café delicious dishes while enjoying a stunning view Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café with its of the Bosphorus. The space is open and airy and Nişantaşı Brasserie Ottoman -and- contemporary style interior, is an breakfast on the terrace overlooking the water is a With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı ideal spot for a coffee break without having to special treat. HH Daily B&L&D. Brasserie is one of İstanbul’s most popular spots. leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar. www.adakitapcafe.com. Muallim Naci Cad. The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern HH Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 1, Kuruçeşme. tastes, including French soup, duck’s liver, Halıcılar Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. E4. T: 0212 263 9003. Off map.

spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese with decor brought from Japan. Stars on the menu AEGEAN style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried include tofu salad and calamari crepes, and for dishes. HHHH Daily L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. dessert, green tea ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. Lokanta Maya Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı A warm, simple restaurant with a menu focusing T: 0212 231 6200. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. on Aegean and Mediterranean specialities, Maya B6. B6. uses only fresh seasonal ingredients. Some of the Hori P.F. Changs favourites include chicken liver pate, marinated sea With its traditional Japanese menu, serene music This Chinese bistro is famed for its delicious food, bass and fish croquettes. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. and lush green garden, Hori is everything you authentic décor and fine service, and the majestic www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeş Cad. 35 A, would want in a Japanese restaurant. The menu horses that greet its guests at the door. Exotic Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. includes sashimi, sushi and fried and steamed flavours in portions large enough to share are HHH Manzara selections. Daily L & D. www.hori.com.tr. accompanied by a good choice of wines, special Grand Hyatt Hotel, Harbiye Mah. Taşkışla Cad. 1, cocktails, sake and beer. HHH Located in the Conrad İstanbul, the 275-capacity Şişli. T: 0212 230 9000. B6. www.pfchangs.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. 94, Etiler. Manzara Restaurant specialises in cuisine from the T: 0212 358 6060. Off map. Mediterranean, with astounding city views., it also Miyabi Sushi offers multiple alternatives for business dinners The elegant restaurant serves top-class Japanese Shang Palace and group events. Daily B, L&D. food in a modern atmosphere. Featuring natural Exciting classical and innovative Chinese dishes www.conradistanbul.com.tr. Conrad İstanbul, wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide are served alongside information on the cuisine. Cihannüma Mah. Saray Cad. 5, Beşiktaş. variety of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH Favourites include Peking duck, filet mignon slices T: 0212 310 2525. Off map. Daily L&D. Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, marinated in Chinese wine, and ginger seafood. Akatlar, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 0222. Off map. HHHH Daily L & D. Sinanpaşa Mah. Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, Beşiktaş. Miyako ASIAN & Far EASTERN T: 0212 275 8888. B7. Award-winning restaurant offering three fine Asian Banyan dining experiences: sushi bar, Teppanyaki cuisine Wagamama The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for plus tatami room. The Japanese garden adds a Extensive menu offers distinctive asian flavours. its varieties from 20 countries. Menus further Asian touch. Sake is served warm or cold to A big hit with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a include with Vietnamese-style vegetable accompany the meal. HHHH Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. D. pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. chili sauce, Singapore-style and sushi. www.swissotel.com.tr. Bayıldım Cad. 2, HHH Daily L & D. www.wagamama.com.tr. HHHH Daily L & D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. Swissôtel The Bosphorus, Maçka. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3/2, Ortaköy. T: 0212 326 1100. B7. Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. T: 0212 259 9060-70. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Maromi Dragon Restaurant The restaurant has been an Istanbul hit since the Zuma Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a day it opened, enhanced by a mystical atmosphere Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the

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Gazebo T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. Revma Balık anglerfish ricado and profiteroles with are Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı Located in an old seaside mansion in Yeniköy, Located in the beautiful Bosphorus quarter of just a few of the highly-recommended treats. This historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every Arnavutköy Balıkçısı Guidelines with magnificent Bosphorus views, Gazebo offers Arnavutköy, and boasting an impressive view, HHH Daily L & D. www.surbalikarnavutkoy.com. weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed A cozy restaurant with simple, unpretentious This directory, grouped by category, is a at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be flavours from all corners of the globe. Must-try Revma Balık serves original house mezes and fish Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. dishes include the filet mignon with Cafe De Paris decor complemented by nostalgic photos of the compendium of establishments recommended prepared by expert chefs. HHH Daily L & D. by the editors of Where Magazine and includes dishes in a welcome, homely atmosphere. Menu T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. sauce, Lebanese kebab, and lamb shank. B, L & D. Arnavutköy waterfront. The menu includes cold www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. Tersane Cad. mezes like mackerel with soy sauce, salt-cured regular advertisers. highlights include octopus beğendi, hot wild www.gazebo-ist.com. Köybaşı Cad. 75, Yeniköy. Tapasuma Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 1371. D4. and sea bass salad, and hot appetizers like sauteed greens platter, sea bass wrapped in chard, and T: 0212 299 8487. Off map. Tapasuma serves traditional Turkish treats in hot monkfish, fried calamari and fish croquettes. MAP LOCATIONS fried shrimp pastries. Daily L & D. Note that the references at the end of each list- and cold tapas form, along with fresh fish from Noi Restaurant & Bar HHHH Daily L & D. www.arnavutkoybalikcisi.com. www.revmabalik.com Arnavutköy, Bebek Cad. french ing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 70-71. the Bosphorus and a range of mezes. Enjoy the Set up as a glassed-fronted, enclosed winter 1. Cadde 4, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 0525. Off map. No:7, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 5060. Off map. panoramic views on the shores of the Bosphorus Brass garden, this restaurant offers an excellent GENERAL information Balıkçı Sabahattin Sur Balık Arnavutköy – there’s also a boat service available from Combining two types of contrasting cuisine in panoramic view of the city. Start the day with its Reservations for most restaurants are strongly Extensive fish menu and excellent service, Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old Kuruçeşme. HHH Daily L & D. www.tapasuma.com. luxurious simplicity, the menu at Brass offers delicious breakfast spreads including homemade advised. Check when booking that the restau- located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. such treats as bouillabaisse and filet mignon with granola, or enjoy dinner of global cuisine. Daily rant will accept your credit card. Value Added near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, photographs. Sea bass marinated with , béarnaise sauce, miso soup, tofu and tuna tataki B, L & D. www.noiistanbul.com. Otlukbeli Cad. Off map. is especially good with rakı, and the but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash salad, and a selection of Asian desserts. Bebekköy Sok. 4, Etiler. T: 0212 287 1506. Off map. pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly gratuity is common. Guests can also enjoy live jazz performances HHH The House Café recommended. HHH Daily L & D. (Fri&Sat). Daily 11am-11pm. PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & The House Cafe was established in 2002 at an www.balikcisabahattin.com. Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sok. www.martiistanbulhotel.com. Abdülhak Hamit Cad. BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. apartment building in Teşvikiye. In a short period of 1, Cankurtaran, Fatih. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. 25/B, Taksim. T: 0212 987 4020. C5. time, the cafe became a success with its seasonal Bebek Balıkçı index to abbreviations La Brise Brasserie and fresh ingredients providing food, wide range B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & This restaurant located in the upmarket A brasserie with an Art Nouveau décor, La Brise of beverages and cosy environment. dinner only. neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves offers always seasonal cooking and a great www.thehousecafe.com. a full array of seafood, with specialities including selection of drinks. Unmissable dishes include The House Cafe Ortaköy, Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy, PRICES grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. Prices per person for three courses and coffee, steak tartare, duck confit and Chateaubriand. T: 0212 227 2699. Off map. HHHH Daily L & D. www.bebekbalikci.net. no alcohol. HHH Daily L & D. www.brasserielabrise.com. The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 10-11, Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. H – TL 0-30 per person Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11A, Nişantaşı. Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 2377. A6. HH – TL 30-60 per person T: 0212 263 3447. Off map. T: 0212 244 4846. A6. HHH – TL 60-90 per person HHHH Chef Mezze – over TL 90 per person La Petite Maison contemporary Located actually in the Bosphorus, this restaurant With a menu that takes you to the French European offers fresh seafood plus Middle Eastern, Riviera, this restaurant with high ceilings and Mediterranean and Aegean mezes. Shrimp risotto aioli. It also boasts incomparable views of the a formal garden is pure French. The cuisine Circle Brasserie and linguini with lobster are two of the most- Prince’s Islands. HHHH www.galatalibalik.com. focuses especially on the dishes of Nice and the Located in the Mualla Hanım Mansion, Circle ordered specialties. Daily L & D. HHHH Plaj Yolu Sok Suadiye Park, A Blok 18, Kadıköy. Mediterranean; the grilled lamb sautéed in herbs is Brasserie offers casual fine dining in a romantic www.chefmezze.com. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, T: 0216 410 3959-69. Off map. one of the stars of the menu. Daily L & D. atmosphere, directly on the sparkling waters of the Kuruçeşme. T: 0530 067 5040. Off map. www.lpmistanbul.com.tr Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. Bosphorus. The menu offers a tempting variety, Kıyı 33/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0232. A6. Çengelköy İskele Restaurant from asparagus risotto to lamb shanks, octopus A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for marinated in wine sauce and delicious . wood-paneled décor and photographs and the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. HHHHDaily B, L & D. www.circle.com.tr. Köybaşı paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate INTERNATIONAL Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early Cad. Daire Sok. Mualla Hanım Yalısı, 5/A,Yeniköy. club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming 360 İstanbul Restaurant&Bar T: 0212 262 8455. HHH Daily L & D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev Off map. its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled Commanding a full panoramic view of İstanbul Cad. 186, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. including Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. Nicole calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, DJ and live performances combined with great Nicole occupies an elegant terrace with a view sea bream, haddock and gurnard. HHH Daily L & D. Limani of the Historic Peninsula, the Prince’s Islands and www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. This comfortable restaurant on the shores of the cuisine, and contemporary interior at the top of beyond. The chefs create new interpretations Çengelköy İskele Gazinosu Sok. 4, Çengelköy. Bosphorus specialises in fresh seasonal fish with a 19th- century building. Try the Zen soup for of classic flavours, with fresh vegetables from T: 0216 321 5506. Off map. traditional sauces. Look out also for favourite items starters, then choose from mains like filet mignon Feriköy’s organic market, focusing on freshly- such as octopus yahni: oven-baked octopus with with chili and bitter chocolate, or lamb confite, and Del Mare top it off with the “death by chocolate” dessert. caught local seafood and native Kıvırcık lamb. vegetables. HHH The Grand Tarabya, Haydar Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a HHHH Daily L & D. www.360istanbul.com. HHHH Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K:8, Beyoğlu. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. www.thegrandtarabya.com. T: 0212 363 3300. Extensive Italian and Greek menu: Try specialities T: 0212 251 1042. T: 0212 292 4467. C5. C5. including mussel ravioli, paella, and fish on mashed Off map. . Also accessible by boat from Kuruçeşme Agatha Restaurant Nopa Park Fora The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera Among the cafés you’ll find this elegant restaurant on the European side. HHHH Daily L&D. Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and with a long bar, vertical gardens on its walls, a www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 53/4, Çengelköy. high-quality service. Appetizers include salted Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express glass ceiling and an exclusive cocktail menu. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. Recommended dishes include exotic seafood calamari. Fishcakes and salt-baked fish highly Eftalya Very good wine list. HHH Daily B, L&D. specialities, plus beef ribs roasted for 12 hours, and recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. With a maritime-themed interior complete with Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, lamb shank menu for two. HHHH Daily L, D & N. mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy www.parkfora.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4. Atiye Sok. 6, Nişantaşı. T:0212 327 5868. A6. appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. Topuzlu Parkı 54-A, Ortaköy. Be sure to try the and onion salad, fried T: 0212 265 5063. A9. Bej Karaköy

calamari and seasonal fish varieties. HHH Daily L With a menu offering both Turkish and European Poseidon & D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, cuisine and fresh fruit cocktails, this French-style FISH & SEAFOOD Seafood at its best against a magnificent view Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map.Suadiye, restaurant stays open into the night on weekends. Akıntıburnu of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, Kazım Özalp Sok. 60, Suadiye. Make sure to sample the salads and desserts. This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, T: 0216 350 0152. Off map. HH Mon-Thu 10am-12am, Fri & Sat 10am-2am. glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines Sun 10am-5pm. Kemankeş Cad. Fransız Geçidi seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel Galatalı Balık and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from İş Merkezi, 11 A, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 7195. C5. with soy sauce, baked shellfish and Galatalı Balık serves Cunda cuisine (from Turkey’s Gaziantep. HHHH Daily L & D. are some of the favourites. HHH Daily L & D. northwest coast) including Aegean wild greens, www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet Cafe Sofa 1. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. calamari with almond tarator and mackerel with Paşa Cad. 58, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map. This delightful café with a simple, home-style

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Galata Kiva 32, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7333. B8. www.robins.com.tr. Galip Dede Cad. 56, Galata, selections and 37 tempting dishes, both Turkish One of the most notable products of the Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 9443. D5. and international. HHH Daily L & D. Wed-Sat L, D & La Torre multicultural Ottoman civilization is its cuisine. Kiva N. www.sekizistanbul.com. Kuloğlu Mah. Gazeteci Exclusive Located in Le Méridien İstanbul Etiler, Sarnıç offers the perfect opportunity to rediscover the Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 8924. C5. secret flavours of Anatolia. Also with a branch on featuring creative takes on Mediterranean and A restaurant dating to the Repuclican period the Asian side. HHH Daily B, L & D. Galata Tower Turkish cuisine by award-winning chefs. Try the housed in a cistern at the end of an old Ottoman Sky Bar Meydanı, Şahkulu, Şah Kapısı Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. stuffed köfte with cheek of beef, and the crab street. Favourites include shrimp cocktail, crepe A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza tartare appetizer. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 292 98 98. C5. Bosphorus, paçanga börek, Karsky Oriental, and Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of www.latorre-restaurant.com.tr. Le Meridien desserts like fried bananas and pineapple with the city, featuring international cuisine and fine Globe, The İstanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Cad. 39, Etiler. ice cream. Daily D. www.sarnicrestaurant.com. service. HHH Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com. This smart hotel restaurant offers an innovative, T: 0212 3840000. Off map. Soğukçeşme Sok. 26, Sultanahmet. tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, interactive dining experience. The restaurant T: 0212 512 4291- 0212 513 3660. F4. Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. serves four major world cuisines: western-style Masa Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed Grill, Mediterranean, Asian and local specialities. Sekizİstanbul Starboard Restaurant by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as REVMA BALIK Daily B, L & D. Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Hotel & A popular spot with simple white décor, regulars Enjoy al fresco dining complemented by a and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate Bebek Cad. 7, Conference Center, Silahşör Cad. 42, Bomonti, Şişli. love the delicious treats from its pizza oven, snack spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. The souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by T: 0212 375 3000. Off map. Arnavutköy, celebrities. HHH Daily L & D. Beşiktaş. Huqqa www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. T: 0212 263 5060. This world cuisine restaurant overlooking the İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, Sarıyer. www.revmabalik.com Bosphorus is dominated by lively décor featuring T: 0212 345 5323. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). pastels and geometric designs. The menu includes both regional Turkish and Italian dishes; the Pizza Midpoint Select varieties from international cuisines, warm Funghi Carnaval and Oreo Dream are décor, offers a menu of dishes from around the T: 0212 243 2103. D5. architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among well worth a try. No alcohol. HHH www.huqqa.com. world. In addition, it also serves its special coffee the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin Compass Roof Restaurant&Bar Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. and cocktails day and night. HHH Daily B, L & D. taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and Located in the Titanic Hotel in , this spot T: 0212 265 0666. Off map. www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. offers many special flavours ranging from seafood Cad. 41-41 A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. İst Too HH Daily B, L & D. www.midpoint.com.tr. Abdi to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of This spot between Dolmabahçe Palace and the İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9401. Can Oba Restaurant cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant A6. Naval Museum serves fine Japanese, Southeast It may be small in size but it’s huge in quality. This and charming modern ambiance. HHH Daily D. Nikol Asian, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, including restaurant offers delicious dishes created by chef Kaptan-ı Derya Cad. 37, Titanic Business Hotel, This concept shop and kitchen turns out a good selection of sushi and noodles. Can Oba and his team, including their signature Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. chocolates, pastries, organic cookies, snacks, Mon-Sat L & D. HHHH www.shangri-la.com. fish soup and seafood with a tempting choice of salads and more. Take a close look at the décor; Delicatessen Shangri-La Bopshorus, Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, sauces. Mon-Sat L & D. Hoca Paşa Sok. 10, Sirkeci. everything in this modern vintage venue is for sale! Featuring dishes that combine Turkish tastes, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. T: 0212 522 1215. D6. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.nikolgalata.com. Serdar-ı local ingredients and international delicacies, Ekrem Sok. 9, Galata. T: 0212 251 5158. Cantinery the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, Kız Kulesi (Maidens Tower) D5. Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with This restaurant, featuring decor by American sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish Park Şamdan superb 360-degree view, the Maiden’s Tower designers Roman & Willams, offers a wide range of courses as well as an extensive wine list. HHH A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers serves as a coffee house during the day and innovative dishes including lobster burger, shrimp Daily B, L & D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international carpaccio, codfish gyoza and cheesecake. Nişantaşı, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. international delicacies. Wide variety of local and cuisines. Live music by local and international The fresh Italian-style breads baked daily are T: 0212 225 0604. A6. Pera, Asmalımescit Mah. foreign liquors and cocktails. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service especially delicious. Daily B, L & D. Zorlu Center, Oteller Sok. 10-B, Beyoğlu. www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 14, departing from Salacak on the hour. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365. Off map. T: 0212 244 8455 - 56. C4. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. HHH Daily L & D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak A6. Cipriani Divan Brasserie Beyoğlu Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. Parlé This international restaurant chain is, famous for The brasserie is residing on top of a renovated This elegant and sophisticated restaurant serves Kitchenette its unique approach to world dining. The interior han (large commerce building). With a terrace fine international cuisine in its own unique style. A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, is striking with its and earth-toned interior overlooking the Bosphorus and the historic Highlights of the menu include filet mignon with Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic old city the restaurant is a choice for extended Cafe De Paris sauce, roast duck and seafood salad including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. HHH Daily L & D. luncheons, after-work cocktails, and dinner dates. with goat cheese. HHHH Daily L & D. pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and www.cipriani.com. Edition Hotel, Levent Mah. Divan Brasserie’s menu is a journey through Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. exclusively produced house wines, and Büyükdere Cad. 2/1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 317 7787. and international classics. T: 0212 353 6340. HHH Off map. Off map. HH Mon, Wed, Sun L&D. Thu-Sat L&D&N. oils. Daily B, L & D. www.kitchenette.com.tr. www.divan.com.tr Tom Tom Mah. İstiklal Cad. The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer Picasso Restaurant City Lights Merkezhan, K:5 & 6, 181, Beyoğlu. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented Commanding a breathtaking Bosphorus view from T: 0212 243 2481. on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. C4. La Delicatesse Restaurant the roof of the Taksim Ceylan Intercontinental HHH Daily L & D. www.barcelo.com. Looking for something different? Hotel, City Lights adds live music, delicious food, Divan Brasserie Bebek Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı. fine wines and a great selection of cocktails. If it’s The brasserie offers breathtaking views and a menu Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the T: 0212 631 1212. Off map. an exclusive evening you’re after, look no further. that combines the best of Turkish and international seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with HHHH istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. cuisine, including classic and modern flavours, family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with Remina Restaurant Intercontinental İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, complemented by an extensive wine cellar. care and love. HHH Daily L & D. In one of the most beautiful spots on Kalamış bay, Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. HHH Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Cevdet www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, Remina serves a tempting selection of international Paşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. dishes. Try their pepper cream soup, Chalcedon Colonie burger, and basil-parmesan bread fresh from the Laledan This neo-bistro concept restaurant’s dark coloured Divan Brasserie Kalamış oven daily. HHH Daily B, L & D. Wyndham İstanbul, seating and hanging lamps blend well with its This is an excellent choice for those looking to Boasting an open buffet breakfast with over 250 Fener Cad. 38, Kalamış. T: 0216 400 0000. Off map. bright atmosphere. Boasting its own in-house escape the city’s hustle and bustle, a safe haven items with 80% organic ingredients, and Arab, charcuterie, the kitchen turns out favourite dishes of calm and elegance where you can enjoy Asian and sushi corner between 6.30am and 11am. Robin’s Galata from around the world. Pizzas from a wood oven, Divan chefs’ most enticing specialities, against a Legendary Çırağan Brunch on Sundays from 12pm- With one of the finest views of the Galata Tower, Asian specialities, grilled meats, and desserts such backdrop of white sailboats riding at anchor. 4pm. Laledan Restaurant serves an all-day dining this restaurant welcomes you with its warm, serene as crème brûlée are just a few of the offerings. HH Mon-Fri B, L & D; Fri & Sat B, L, D & N. menu, with delicious comfort food and regional decor. The decidedly French-influenced menu Daily L, D & N. www.colonie.com.tr. www.divan.com.tr. Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, specialties. HHHH www.kempinski.com. includes lobster, foie gras and entrecote among its Kemankeş Cad. 87/A, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. Kalamış. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. most popular selections. Daily L & D.

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soup, line caught sea bass filet, mixed sea-food warm, welcoming environment. HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.ajiahotel.com. the most impressive offerings are their artichoke plate. HHHH Daily B, L & D. 6am-11pm. HHH Daily L & D. www.jamieoliver.com. Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa mücver in cheese fondue, and talaş börek on a www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9300. Off map. bed of beef. Or stop by in the evening and enjoy Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 4059. A9. T: 0212 353 6808. Off map. live music along with their signature passion fruit Bloom cocktail. HHH Daily L, D & N. Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye Carluccio’s Mezzaluna This high-ceilinged spacious venue has another Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 6666. A6. The İstanbul branch of this restaurant, named after Mezzaluna serves cold appetizers and carpaccios, surprise – a wide green terrace filled with famous chef Antonio Carluccio himself, serves thin crust pizzas baked in a wood oven, and fresh grapefruit, olive, pomegranate and orange trees. Galliard, The authentic Italian flavours in a relaxed, authentic hand-made pastas all in a colourful, cheerful The stars of the menu include dishes cooked in Serving predominantly Spanish, French and Italian atmosphere. Check out their gourmet market. atmosphere. HHH Daily L & D. their stone oven; try beef tas kebabı, and köfte with cuisine, specialities at this contemporary elegant HHH Daily B, L & D. Kanyon Shopping Centre, www.mezzaluna.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, kashar cheese, to name just a few. HH restaurant include homemade pastas, plus their Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0545. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3142. A6. Daily B, L & D. Ambarlı Dere Cad. 6, Ortaköy. special bread with , and wine. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). T: 0212 288 6582. Off map. Tue-Sat L, D & N. Sun & Mon L & D. Mirror www.thegalliard.com. Nispetiye Cad. 104, Etiler. Cento Per Cento This venue includes both a restaurant and bar in Flamingo T: 444 0 233. Off map. With a concept based on everyday Italian food, a minimalist interior. Predominantly Italian menu Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on Italian takes starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s also offers delicacies from world cuisines. Chill-out centre stage at this high-end restaurant, which Halat Restaurant easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef’s cosy, groove, acid jazz and beach house music converts into a nightclub after dinner. Items include Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical between 4pm-8pm and after dinner. HHH pizzas, pastas and risottos, plus desserts including restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the Daily L & D. www.mirrorbistro.com. Suadiye Park, chocolate mousse, chocolate tart and tiramisu. sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on highlights. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. A Blok 2, Kat: 3, Suadiye. T: 0216 464 2710. Off map. The Prosecco cocktail comes highly recommended. Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. HHHH Mon-Sat L, D & N. www.flamingoist.com. foreign wine list. HHH Daily L & D. Morini Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı.T: 0212 232 6202. A6. Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 232 6868. B6. www.halatrestaurant.com. Rahmi Koç Museum, From the décor to the quality service, Morini is Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. Da Mario pure New York. The home-made pastas reign Floripa T: 0212 369 6616. B2. With a typical southern Italian atmosphere supreme here; the favourite of celebrities such as This restaurant, café and bar in , on one and delicious Mediterranean dishes including Catherine Zeta Jones, Brad Pitt and Heidi Klum, its of the loveliest spots on the Bosphorus, welcomes Lacivert homemade fresh pastas and pizzas from the wood dishes are created by Michelin-star chef Michael you with its Mediterranean food including salads, Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with oven. Extensive wine list. HHHH Daily L & D. White. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B & L & D. pastas, and pizzas cooked in a real wood oven. a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant RANCHERO www.istanbuldoors.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Its vast breakfast menu makes it the ideal place to delights its guests with seasonally changing menus Reasürans Çarşısı 53, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8550. Dilhayat Sok. 7, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5186. Off map. T: 0212 353 6767. Off map. spend a long, relaxing weekend morning; at night and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out Floripa turns into a bar featuring great DJ sets. of the sea, from calamari to octopus, and Del Mare Papermoon HHH Daily B, L, D & N. www.d-ream.com.tr. shrimp as well a vast selection of fish. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its İstanbul sunset. HHH www.hilton.com.tr. This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı Cad. No:4 Sarıyer. Brunch on Sundays. HHHH Daily L & D. delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh Daily D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 287 6220. Off map. www.lacivertrestaurant.com. Körfez Cad. 57/A, Try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations seafood dishes. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Çırağan Cad. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 413 4224. fish on mashed eggplant. Also accessible by boat Off map. 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. Frankie View Point Restaurant from Kuruçeşme on the European side. HHHH Boasting three different sections, choose from the La Mancha T: 0212 310 1500. B8. www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel Daily L & D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 45/1, Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. terrace, city lounge and main restaurant. Among Serving a mix of Italian, Moroccan and Spanish Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Sultan Restaurant Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the Eataly palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. Ristorante Italia With 24 branches including New York, Chicago and kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish HHH Daily B, L & D. www.pointhotel.com. With a simple, grey-dominated decor and art-lined several Italian cities, this new venue of the market- and world cuisines. HHHH Daily L & D. walls, the menu here features traditional Italian Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. restaurant chain offers top-quality Italian cheeses, www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel, dishes created by Chef Massimo Bottura. Tue-Sun 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. pastas, sauces and more. Featuring fine food and Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. L & D. www.osteriafrancescana.it Zorlu Center, quality shopping, Eataly scores high points with its T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. Vogue Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. Vogue Restaurant & Bar, located on the top floor pizzas and desserts HHH Daily 10am-11pm. Turkuaz Restaurant of BJK Plaza, welcomes guests once more with its Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. www.eataly.com.tr. Restaurant offering delightful international refurbished décor and delicious food. Serving high T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. lebanese HHH flavours. Daily B, L & D. quality Mediterranean cuisine plus a lengthy sushi www.dedeman.com. Dedeman İstanbul, Emporio Armani Ristorante Al Bushra menu, it offers a host of dishes from Chilean sea Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. This casual dining spot features a cafe and bar on Nestled on the 9th flor of Hilton İstanbul, Al Bushra bass to lamb shanks. HHHH Daily L&D. its lower floor. The furniture, dominated by ivory promises a delightful and unforgettable dining T: 0212 337 4500. A7. www.voguerestaurant.com. Akaretler Spor Cad. 92, and black, is accompanied by Armani sparkle on experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes Tuti BJK Plaza A Blok K:13, Beşiktaş. the wall. The menu features outstanding traditional by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking In the middle of the city, this stylish restaurant T: 0212 227 4404. B7. Italian and Mediterranian flavours including Bosphorus view. HHH Daily L & D. boasts a menu with world flavours, plus a fine wine scallops with cream sauce, capesante and classic www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet cellar with over 200 selections. HHH Daily B, L & D. Italian panna cotta. HHH Daily L & D. İstinye Park Cad. K:9, Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, ITALIAN 519, İstinye, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6140. Taksim Meydanı. T: 0212 334 8300. B6. Antica Locanda Shopping Centre Map (p.40). MEDITERRANEAN Ulus 29 The former bakery of the Taxiarchis Greek Fratelli La Bufala Flavours from around the world by international Orthodox Church – İstanbul’s largest Ottoman- Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is 34 Restaurant chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes era Greek church – is now a restaurant serving also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste Personalised service with live kitchen shows plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. traditional Italian food. Favourite menu items the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and form just part of the exclusive atmosphere at 34 Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking include the Sardinian-style potatoes with mint and you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram Restaurant. Its ‘Food under the Sun’ concept, HHHH stuffed homemade fagottini. HHH Wed-Sat L & D; A Welcome Break! required. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat-Sun D. portions. Delicious! HHH Daily L & D. based on Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, In the heart of the Grand Bazaar, Çinili Cafe gives the immediate impression of an art www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, Tue-Sat D; Sun L. www.anticalocanda.com.tr. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Kar Kuyusu Sok. ensures a unique dining experience. Daily L & D, museum. This boutique café serves regional fare, with dishes including mantı, hummus Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Off map. Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. Trump Towers Mall, Zemin K:13 Şişli. Taşkışla Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu. Off map. T: 0212 347 99 00. Off map. T: 0212 368 1234. C4. and stuffed köfte, with apple pie, homemade cakes and cookies to finish – or just to enjoy Veranda Grill & Bar for an afternoon coffee. Reflecting the spirit and décor of the Grand Bazaar, the cafe also Enjoy a wonderful combination of alfresco dining Aqua Jamie’s Italian A’jia Restaurant with a Bosphorus view, and select Turkish and One of the most talk-about restaurants in İstanbul With a creative menu featuring authentic gourmet With its unique fusion of contemporary sells antique coins, jewellery, kilims and giftware, all in a welcoming atmosphere. international dishes including delicious and with its master chefs, unparalleled service and dishes made with the freshest ingredients, Jamie’s interior design and 18th-century architecture Kapalıçarşı, Halıcılar Cad. 97, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 9504. fresh charcoal-grilled fish and burgers. Or head to excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly menu includes delicious köfte, chicken with in a spectacular Bosphorus-front location, this the bar for a wonderful cocktail with a breathtaking Mediterranean and Italian dis hes, minestrone , and treats from around the world, in a restaurant has a reputation for quality service.

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and a modern design, Ali’s menu is devoted mainly of local specialties, including döner kebab. Daily B to kebabs and meats. Specialities include their & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker signature Ali Kebap and the traditional pumpkin Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. dessert served with tahini and ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. Arap Camii Mah. Tersane Cad. 45/ 4, Ph Pub A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and Grifin Han, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 1011. C5. desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH Peymane pub on the lobby floor. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Located in a five-storey registered historical www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, building, the restaurant also contains a charcuterie The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. with fine cheeses and cold meats. Above the T: 0212 370 2020. A8. entrance is a VIP salon, with an indoor dining room on the top floor. The kebab grill lends an elegant decorative touch. HHH Daily L & D. sPECIAL SPOTS www.peymane-lacucina.com. Tophane, Tomtom, Boğazkesen Cad. 65/1, Tophane. T: 0212 244 0955. Mahalle Located on the top floor of City’s Nişantaşı Beyoğlu, Meşrutiyet Cad. Evliya Çelebi Mah. 94/A, shopping centre, Mahalle offers a variety of Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 5314. C5. services under one roof from a butcher to a flower shop, greengrocer, bookstore and coffee shop. new anatolıan There’s something for every need and occasion. Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. Mikla NOI Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. Mikla opened in October 2005. The initial idea was Otlukbeli Cad. Bebekköy Sok. 4, Etiler. T: 0212 287 1506. to create a refined but contemporary “İstanbullu” Trump Cadde Restaurant. Both the menu and the general feel Located on the terrace floor of Trump Towers of the Restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian Shopping Centre, this is home to event spaces plus cuisine, La Mancha offers a delicious variety stuffed with meat and ; the modern menu background of Mehmet Gürs. HHHH Mon-Sat D. brands including Limonata, Bali Bey, Nezih Kebap, of hot and cold tapas dishes, fresh seafood features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Rumi , Fiorucci, PapaBubble and Plus and Costalatele alla Toscana, along with 150 crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala Cad. 94, K:7, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. Kitchen. It’s an ‘avenue with a view’ which creates wine selections and cocktails. Daily L & D. sauce. HHH Daily L & D. www.topazistanbul.com. C4. the carefree spirit of the street. www.lamancha.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 107, İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. Karkuyusu Sok. Şişli. T: 0212 3487867. Off map. Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 1144. Off map. T: 0212 249 1001. B6. ottoman

Mia Mensa Sir Winston Brasserie Asitane Restaurant This restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Italian This elegantly and meticulously decorated venue Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an steakhouse cuisine plus international dishes, is enhanced by really stands out. On the menu, Italian pizzas, exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 Maçka Günaydın Et Restaurant its enchanting Bosphorus view. Try the flounder pastas and risottos are paired with traditional wines ‘Book of Feasts’. The menu offers specialties like With a wood-dominated, historic feel, this spot with lemon sauce, the four-cheese pizza and the from Turkey’s Urla region. Try their delicious salads, soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa serves a variety of kebabs and meats. Try the tiramisu. HHH www.miamensa.com. and chicken, meat and fish marinated in a special börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and smoked meat platter, succulent steaks and the Muallim Naci Cad. 64/C, Kuruçeşme. sauce for a feast fit for a king – and top it off with a -scented for dessert. HHH Daily L & D. hand-churned HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 263 4214. HHH Off map. splendid dessert. Şair Nedim Cad. 3, Beşiktaş, www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, www.gunaydinet.com. Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Akaretler. T: 212 259 9919. B7. Müzedechanga Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. C2. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 258 1203. B7. The restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus X Restaurant Deraliye Restaurant N Burger views and centuries-old pine trees, with an New venue located on the 6th floor of the This restaurant serves the finest that Ottoman This cosy restaurant’s menu includes the Nusret excellent menu to match. Be sure to try the fresh İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. Mainly cuisine has to offer, very close to the Basilica Burger, Lokum Burger and Sucuklu Burger, along blackeyed peas with tarator, filet mignon Mediterranean menu offers risottos, pastas, pizzas Cistern and Topkapı Palace. Try the stuffed with a selection of köfte and meats. The tulum with green bulgur pilaf, tortellini with spinach and and desserts plus Turkish dishes. HHH Daily L & D. vine leaves with sour cherries, lamb neck with cheese salad and baklava are some of its most lor cheese, mosaic pastry and chestnut tiramisu. www.xrestaurantbar.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, prunes, and almond dusted with powdered popular dishes. Daily L & D. www.d-ream.com.tr. HHH Tue-Sat L & D, Sat-Sun B. Şişhane. T: 0212 244 7101. . Daily L & D. www.deraliyerestaurant.com. C5. Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 57/A, Reasürans Çarşısı, Nişantaşı. www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sok. 10, Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Yelken Restaurant T: 0212 231 2470-71. A6. Off map. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7778. F4. Boasting lovely Bosphorus views, this modern Nusr-Et Orange Restaurant restaurant serves an excellent selection of classical Matbah In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, Turkish fish dishes plus original Mediterranean Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine. flavours including moules marineieres, surf and Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and turf, seafood linguini and paella. HHH Daily L & the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic are cooked to order. HHH Daily L & D. Nispetiye southern Mediterranean specialties promise D. www.yelkenrestaurant.com. Köybaşı Cad. 58, buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. a delightful experience. HHH Daily B, L & D. Cad. 87, Etiler. T: 0212 358 3022. Off map. Yeniköy. T: 0212 262 9490. Off map. HHH Daily B, L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. The Market @ Bosphorus İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. T: 0212 514 6151. F4. Minimalist design meets classic Turkish and world T: 0216 570 0038. Off map. MEXICAN cuisine, with classic meats, steaks and burgers, plus Tuğra Restaurant Sunset Grill&Bar Ranchero A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical foie gras and a selection of seafood. Daily B, HHH This well-known İstanbul venue offers a Presenting fine Mexican cuisine with authentic Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish L & D. Kuruçeşme Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an tableware and kitchen equipment shipped from classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 4111. A9. exclusive wine list and Mediterranean cuisine. Mexico, its extensive menu includes real tortillas waterfront. HHHH Daily D. Try Something Thai! Steak N More Istan’bull Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining and tortilla chips made fresh daily. HH Daily www.kempinski-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, The restaurant that introduced İstanbul to Thai cuisine, ÇokÇok’s architecture and Synonymous with its chef Fikret Özdemir (p. 4), this night with a DJ. Booking required. HHHH Mon-Sat L&D. www.ranchero.com.tr. Reasürans Çarşısı 53, Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Beşiktaş. authentic décor creates the magical atmosphere of Asia. Boasting a wide selection of restaurant concentrates mostly on meat and fish. L & D. www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8550. A6. T: 0212 258 3377. B8. All dishes are made from 100% Turkish meat, plus Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. delicious dishes, the service is fantastic, and a lounge bar with Chillout and World Music its local cheese and wines. Try the piri piri shrimp, completes a great evening out. Topaz MODERN OCAKBAŞI PUB lamb shanks, and künefe for dessert. HHH Daily L Chic restaurant offering traditional and modern Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 292 6496. & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Hotel, Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine. The traditional Ali Divan Pub Elmadağ www.cokcok.com.tr. İstanbul Şişli, 19 Mayıs Cad. 12, Şişli. Turkish menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard With a view of the historic peninsula, high ceilings The extensive and tempting menu includes a range T: 0212 375 0000. Off map.

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daily. HH Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Atiye Sok. rakı menu offers 33 different varieties. As in any Tue-Sun B, L & D. Zeyrek Mah. thaı 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. meyhane, the mezes reign supreme; they also serve İbadethane Arkası Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. a very good kadayıf pastry for dessert. T: 0212 532 2778. ÇokÇok Thai Restaurant & Bar D3. Çintemani Restaurant HHH Mon-Sat L&D. Kemankeş Mah. Fransız Geçidi Rich authentic Thai menu in a sophisticated Named after one of the most important motifs in 53/8, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 0993. D5. setting. Created by an award-winning female Thai traditional Ottoman art, this venue is open all day. TURKISH (MODERN) chef, designed by renowned Singaporean architect Menu inspired by the most distinguished dishes of Raika Boğaziçi Borsa Kay Ngee Tan, and managed by a London-trained the Mediterranean and Ottoman Court cuisines. The immensely varied cuisine of Anatolia is HHH A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s management team. Daily L & D. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily 6:30am-11pm. served in an innovative presentation, with strong updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton, İstanbul, emphasis of seasonal ingredients. Located on T: 0212 292 6496. cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. C4. Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 334 4188. the terrace floor of The Marmara Taksim, and Off map. Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the Pera Thai boasting a panoramic view of the city, the bar with Günaydın entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. Outstanding presentation of Thai cuisine, which its magnificent view is the perfect spot for early This simply-decorated two-storey restaurant, with HHH Daily L & D. www.borsa.com. has risen to prominence in recent years. Jazz and evening get-togethers. HHHH Daily L, D & N. a spacious garden, serves delicious kebabs and Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre, ethnic music tunes provide a smooth ambiance for The Marmara Taksim Hotel, 20/F, Taksim. other grilled meats. The mainstays of the menu Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. A6. dinners. Original flavours and exotic atmosphere T: 0212 2433773. C5. are the fındık (an appetizer-sized version Borsa from Thailand brought to guests in a simple Refik Restaurant of the familiar ‘Turkish pizza’), stuffed köfte and A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s interior decorated with authentic objects. Mon-Sat One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, chopped kebabs, including their special pistachio updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish L & D. HHH www.perathai.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial kebab. HHH Daily L&D. Kazım Özalp Cad. 58, cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. 74/A,Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 5726. C4. atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, ‘Albanian style’ Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 417 9209. Off map. Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. Karaköy Lokantası its delightful specialities. HHH Mon-Sat D. TURKISH HHH Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Located across from the customs house, this www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Sarıyer. Bir Tat Et Lokantası restaurant looks like a French bistro from the Sofyalı Sok. 6, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. T: 0212 345 5333. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). This warm and inviting spot serves all types of outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its Seasons Turkish cuisine. Its menu is especially famous for its turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives Core Grill & Bar Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded offal including , liver and sweetbreads. the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia’s restaurant by glass. Seasons Restaurant serves Turkish Daily L & D. Kalfa Çeşme Sok. 16, Koşuyolu. include mezes like mashed broad beans and is bright, relaxed and friendly. Ingredients from specialities featuring local products, inc Braised T: 0216 553 6664. Off map. smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish various cuisines blend harmoniously with Turkish Artichoke, Hengel Ravioli, cold cress-nettle soup . HHH Daily L & D. Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, dishes, with the chef’s specialties including chicken Casita and puff pastry with lamb ragout. HHHH Daily B, Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5. schnitzel with kadayıf pastry and their Core kebab. Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling L & D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. HH Daily L & D. www.radissonblu.com. served with yoghurt, and tripe soup, Casita also Ma’na Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia, Yakut Cad. offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme A nostalgic venue with a meyhane atmosphere, Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3000. E5. Ataşehir. T: 0216 579 1100. Off map. kebab, mushroom casserole and “paper serving Turkish delicacies with Turkish semi- Sofyalı 9 doll” dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours classical music in the background. The impressive Dai Pera Turkish and Greek tunes provide the background to Blending İstanbul’s vast history of Balkan, warm conversation, while at least 25 mezes tempt Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian the taste buds - from classics like chard stuffed elements with a modern vision, the venue offers with mince meat, çoban , fincan pastry traditional İstanbul flavours including white and ‘Albanian style’ diced fried liver, to seafood with meat, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı delicacies like mussels in red wine sauce, grilled and quince dessert. HH Mon-Thu 9am-2am. shrimp and octopus. Daily L, D&N. Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. www.sofyali.com.tr. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. C5. 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3810. C4. İstanbul and its Cuisine Divan Lokanta Located in a building that was used as a prison until the late Ottoman period, Surplus Yanyalı Fehmi Divan Lokanta creates an innovative menu by Restaurant serves popular Turkish dishes. Boasting a 360º view that encompasses the This historic restaurant serves a variety of Ottoman combining the best of Turkish and Mediterranean Golden Horn, Galata, the Bosphorus and most of the Historic Peninsula, Surplus offers and Turkish soups, braised dishes and pilafs. dining, plus Divan’s signature dishes. The delicious traditional dishes including Tatar mantı, satır köfte and grilled lamb. Popular dishes include pinto bean , lamb copper-leaf bar and ceiling-hung glass sculptures stew, and a special Ottoman palace shimmering golden red set the tone in an inviting Ragıp Gümüş Cad. 54, Kat 3-4, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 1002. dessert. Mon-Sat L & D. www.fehmilokantasi.com and elegant atmosphere, with countless vintage www.surplus.com.tr Yağlıkçı İsmail Sok. 1, Kadıköy. T: 0216 336 3333. wines in illuminated racks. HHH Daily L & D. Off map. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Yeni Lokanta Münferit Surplus Rustical, and decorated simply with tiles, trees FerahFeza This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at With views of both the historic peninsula and Pera, and flowers, Yeni Lokanta serves traditional dishes With décor alluding to the local artisan tradition, the entrance of the Galata Residence. The menu this restaurant serves fine Turkish cuisine. Must-try made with ingredients from Anatolia. The bulgur this new venue boasts two breezy terraces offers a combination of traditional and modern dishes include the roast lamb, satır köftesi and lamb salad with sour cherries, mantı filled with dried overlooking Galata Tower and the Historic flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled taraklık. HHH www.surplus.com.tr. eggplant and with are some Peninsula. Favourites on the menu include salmon shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, Ragıp Gümüş Cad. 54, Kat:3-4, Eminönü. of the must-try offerings. HH Mon-Sat L & D. in vine leaves with tahini sauce, and bean casserole poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek T: 0212 520 1002. E5. www.lokantayeni.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66, with grilled octopus. HHH Daily B, L, D & N. of beef with . HHH Mon-Sat D. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 2550. C5. www.ferahfeza-ist.com. Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, 19, Taksim. T: 0212 252 5067. C5. Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. D5. TURKISH (tradıtıonal) Zeyrekhane Rocca Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally part of a Gile Restaurant Beyti Offering classic Turkish and Mediterranean For Lovers of Asian Food monastary, and entered through old wooden Young chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş add Frequented by kings, prime ministers, celebrities Miyabi Sushi Japanese Grill Bar serves top-class Japanese food in a modern, elegant houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of a contemporary edge to familiar flavours, creating specialities with a modern presentation in three and high society, this restaurant enjoys worldwide atmosphere. Featuring natural wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide variety of Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other new flavours such as filet mignon with fenugreek, menus: From the Sea, From the Land and From the fame for its meat dishes. An indisputable master of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish 24-hour lamb shank, and Saroz shrimp grilled over Marketplace. Dishes include lamb tartar, lakerda meat cookery with a dish named after him, owner red pine. HHH (salt-cured bonito) and the chef’s special desserts. Beyti Güler handpicks the ingredients. Its chorcoal Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Akatlar, Beşiktaş. cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic Daily L & D. interior filled with original paintings, imperial www.gilerestaurant.com. Şair Nedim Cad. Daily B, L & D. HHH www.raffles-tr.com Raffles grilled meats are divine. HHH Tue-Sun L & D. T: 0212 352 0222 edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and ornate tiles, Akaretler, Sıra Evler B Blok. 14, Akaretler. İstanbul, Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. www.beyti.com. Orman Sok. 8, Florya. all originals.www.zeyrekhane.com. HHH T: 0212 327 1166. A7/B7. T: 0212 924 0200. Off map. T: 0212 663 2991. Off map.

62 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 63 DINING DINING

Darüzziyafe Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9/A, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu Kandilli Borsa Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, and Far Eastern cuisines. HHH Daily L & D. www.borsarestaurant.com. Adile Sultan Sarayı, Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. T: 0216 460 0304. Off map.

Kaşıbeyaz Bophorus Don’t be misled by its thoroughly modern 21st- century decor; this restaurant serves traditional Turkish cuisine. Dominated by meat and kebabs, the menu also features home-style dishes and a variety of sautéed and fried dishes. Daily L & D. www.kasibeyaz.com.tr Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. T: 0212 299 5000. Off map.

Konyalı Kanyon Konyalı is run by the fourth generation of the family, Mehmet Eren Doğanbey. Exclusive concept and ambiance, the fine menu and luxurious presentation on gold-plated service all add up to a memorable meal. HH Daily L & D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, A warm and inviting Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. T: 0212 353 0450. Shopping Centre Map (p.40). meeting spot Köşebaşı Cantinery, located in the popular İstanbul shopping mall Zorlu Center, offers selections This internationally-recognized chain restaurant from international cuisine prepared with its own unique style. Combining the spirit of offers meat dishes from Adana and Tarsus region a cafeteria and bistro, Cantinery works with seasonal specialities. Some of the must-try based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, dishes include the lobster burger, sand smelt tempura plus their outstanding pizzas. Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and halvah are especially good. Playground Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365 available for the kids. HH Daily L & D. www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, T: 0212 230 3868. A6. reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. Hamdi Et Lokantası Mabeyin Located in the Süleymaniye complex and A classic İstanbul dining experience, this Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. to experience select Turkish dishes along with panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 Ideal choice for those who want to combine history delicious sherbets and desserts. HH Daily L & kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and poppy seed with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 4, kebab are highly recommended. HHH Daily L&D. cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. HHH Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. Daily L & D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 7, Kalçın Sok. 11, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 5424. D4. Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. Develi Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, Develi offers Havuzlu Lokanta Nar Lokanta a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine Experience five centuries of history in this With its menu of traditional Turkish and Ottoman Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring specialities, Nar Lokanta celebrates the Ottoman kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, , and exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among culinary tradition. Outstanding dishes include Antep style stuffed dried . HHH its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, stuffed köfte, palace-style mantı, and şekerpare Daily L & D. www.develikebap.com. roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. HH Mon-Sat with figs and poppyseeds.HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, www.narlokantasi.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 41, K:5, Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 522 2800. E4. T: 0212 527 3346. E4. Feriye Lokantası Pandeli Historical building that housed a police station a Hünkar Nişantaşı An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. On tıme, every tıme cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb liver, tandoori lamb stew and lamb casserole with during a visit to the old city and the markets. yasarogluxury, sınce 1980 fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience HH Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, winter. HHHH Daily L & D. www.feriye.com. try the lamb’s trotter soup, hünkar beğendi and Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. E5. Çırağan Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. semolina halvah. HH Daily L & D. Mim Kemal Öke Safran Off map. Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent Hacı Abdullah Lokantası Kanaat Lokantası Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and A long-established restaurant with a 121-year Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary prepared daily including meat dishes, Turkish music every Wed and Fri. HHH Daily D. tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Intercontinental meat dishes as well as soups and pilafs. No alcohol. HH Daily L & D. Daily 6:30pm-11:30pm. İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. 444 0 925 HH Daily L & D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, T: 0212 368 4444. B6. [email protected] I www.yasaroglulimousine.com 64 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency, Medical Emergency Ambulance Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. Medline Private ambulance service. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 331 2000-444 1212. American Hospital Vehbi Koç Foundation American Hospital is a foundation-owned, acute general care hospital. Each year the Hospital serves 150.000 patients, providing a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over 500 active and visiting physicians. The Hospital is accredited by the Joint Commission International. www.amerikanhastanesi.org. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 444 3777. Medamerican Outpatient Clinic MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the American Hospital. The clinic offers a wide array of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care services. www.medamerikan.com. Cemil Topuzlu Cad. 46 Çiftehavuzlar. T: 0216 468 2555.

Emergency, Dental Dentistanbul First and only dedicated dental hospital in Turkey. Specialised and experienced staff, fully equipped operating room, ambulance and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. Yıldız Cad. 71, Beşiktaş. Ask The Concierge T: 0212 444 0347. Pharmacies Pharmacies are open during day until 7:30pm. This month we speak with Zeki Yusufoğlu, Every day, a different pharmacy remains open for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every concierge at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul. neighbourhood. The names of the night pharmacies are displayed on the window of Emirates Atatürk Airport Sabiha Gökçen Airport T: 0216 585 5000. every pharmacy. Pharmacists can check blood www.emirates.com. Şişli Plaza, 19 Mayıs Cad. 5/7, The first and largest of İstanbul’s two airports www.sabihagokcen.aero. pressure, dress minor wounds and provide A Blok K:8, Şişli. T: 0212 315 4545. this is situated 24km west of the city centre, on LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE ow would you define İstanbul? of the city with us. The Atatürk Arboretum recommendations on medical assistance. the European side. With both international and Gulf Air Sabiha Gökçen Airport: International Terminal İstanbul is an enchanting city, with is a little corner of heaven in Sarıyer; the www.treczane.com. domestic flights operating round the clock, it www.gulfair.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 131, Harbiye. Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8802. Domestic boasts fully equipped emergency health services. a magnificent location where two streets of Balat are redolent with history; Useful Numbers T: 0212 231 3450. Terminal Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8650. H The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi continents meet. It’s a place where every İstanbul’s highest hill, Aydos; and the İstanbul Directory, 11811. KLM is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy step brings you face-to-face with the Florence Nightingale museum, are all Turkcell Directory, 11832. www.klm.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145, Atakule A Blok luggage. Regular shuttle buses run by ground historic and the modern definitely worth a trip. Avea Directory, 11855. K:14, Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1900. services provider Havataş approx every 30 mins AIRPORT TRANSFER Vodafone Directory, 11842. Havataş: Offers shuttle services to and from the If your guests had only one day in İstanbul, Where would you send your guests for Lufthansa depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, Same Area Calls, just the 7 digit number. airport every half hour between Atatürk Airport- where should they go? They should good nightlife? Our hotel lounges Le www.lufthansa.com.tr. Etiler and Bakırköy. Check for schedule. Area Codes in İstanbul, Europen Side: 212, Taksim and Sabiha Gökçen Airport-Kadıköy / Atatürk Airport International Terminal, Yeşilköy. Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. definitely see Süleymaniye and Rüstem Fumoir Bar and Pavilion are excellent. If Asian Side: 216. Sabiha Gökçen Airport-Taksim. T: 0212 354 8888. www.havas.com.tr. Paşa Mosques, both masterpieces by the they want to head out into the city, then From Area to Area, 0+area code+number Atatürk Airport Enq T: 0212 463 3000. www.havatas.com.tr. T: 444 44 36. famous Ottoman architect Sinan. They I’d recommend clubs like Reina, Sortie and International, 0+0+ country code+area Pegasus Airlines www.ataturkairport.com. should also see Hagia Sophia Museum, Billionaire. For those wanting to hear local code+number. www.flypgs.com. T: 0212 444 0737. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE GETTING AROUND the ancient Hippodrome and the Basilica music, then Turkish style nightclubs like Singapore Airlines Atatürk Airport: TAV-(International and Domestic Cistern, legacies of the Roman and Sahne İstanbul, Album and Sess would be airLINEs www.singaporeair.com. Terminals Lost Luggage Office) T: 0212 465 3000. Buses EGS Business Park Plazaları B2, K:8, 278, Yeşilköy. T: The City buses and Bus Rapid Transit systems are Byzantine periods.. good choices. Air France Sabiha Gökçen Airport 0212 463 1800. run by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality. www.airfrance.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145 Atakule A Located on the Asian side, Sabiha Gökçen Airport What if they want to have the Where do you like to go during your free Payment is with the İstanbul Kart – an electronic Blok Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1919. Turkish Airlines (THY) is 40km from Kadıköy, 12km from and 50km quintessential Bosphorus dining time? I always love a visit to the Historic card purchased for a deposit fee at sales points. www.turkishairlines.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. from Taksim. A smaller airport, this has some Peninsula, and prefer to stroll in Beyoğlu Anadolu Jet Valid on buses, trams, metro and ferries, it is easily experience? I would send them to a Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. international flights but mainly domestic flights, www.anadolujet.com.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. charged at machines located in many stations, and high-quality venue on the shore of the and İstiklal Caddesi in the afternoons. I T: 0212 444 0849. plus all the budget airlines. Transport to and from Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 2538. provides half-price transfers. Ticket prices vary enjoy taking a bicycle ride or a long walk the airport include city buses, and taxis. As the Bosphorus. Some of the best include according to distance. www.iett.gov.tr. along the waterfront on Sunday mornings. Atlasjet airport is far away from central locations, ground Park Fora, Sur Balık and Poseidon; or for airports Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, www.atlasjet.com. T: 0212 444 3387. services provider Havataş also runs buses to and breakfast, Sütiş in Emirgan and Kale Kafe in My favourite places to visit are the Küçüksu Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720. British Airways İstanbul has two major international airports; one from Kozyatağı and Taksim. Rumeli Hisarı. Mansion and the Hidiv Mansion. www.britishairways.com.tr. Maslak Mah. Bilim Sok. on the European side and the other on the Asian Havataş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. Ferries Please share a little-known, hidden corner 5, K:15, Şişli. T: 0212 367 9292. side. www.havas.com.tr. City ferries operate out from Sirkeci, Eminönü

66 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 67 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS

Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Yalova-Yenikapı • Pendik- Budget T: 0212 528 6821. Branch, At Meydanı 31, Greece, www.greekembassy.org.tr. Turnacıbacı Yalova-Pendik. www.budget.com.tr. T: 444 4722. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1800. Sok. 32, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 8290.

INTER-CITY SEABUS LINES Eurocity Rent A Car Tourism Information Offices , www.germanembassyank.com. Bosphorus Line: Beşiktaş-Kadıköy www.eurocityrentacar.com. Atatürk Airport Sultanahmet, At Meydanı, T: 0212 5181802 - İsmet İnönü Cad. 16/18, Gümüşsuyu. International Arrivals Terminal, Yeşilköy. 0212 5187454. Taksim, Hilton Hotel entrance, PRINCES’ISLANDS SEABUS LINES T: 0212 334 6100. T: 0212 603 6266 - 68. Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 233 0592. Kabataş-Kınalı-Burgaz-Heybeli-Büyükada-Bostancı. Yeşilköy, Atatürk Airport, Yeşilköy. India, www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Interlimousine T: 0212 4653151 - 0212 4653547. 18/7, Dörtler Apt. Elmadağ. T: 0212 296 2131. BOSPHORUS TOURS www.interlimousine.com.tr. Inter Kat Otoparkı, Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu Altı, Harbiye. Italy, www.consistanbul.esteri.it. Boğazkesen Half- and full-day Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands T: 0212 444 9977. TOURISM polıce Cad. Tom Tom Kaptan Sok. 15, Tophane, Beyoğlu. Tours. T: 0212 252 5437. Rentel Yerebatan Cad. 6, Sultanahmet. İdo Nostalgic Bosphorus Tours Providing a top-notch car rental service to T: 0212 527 4503. Japan, Büyükdere Cad. 209, Tekfen Tower K:10, 4. • Eminönü Dep. 10:35am - 1:35pm • Beşiktaş Dep. İstanbul’s visitors with its expert rental staff. Levent. T: 0212 317 4600. 10:50am - 1:50pm • Anadolu Kavağı Dep. 3pm - Dependable, well-equipped luxury car fleet, V.I.P. 5pmT: 444 44 36. chauffeured vehicles, rental and VIP transfer Korea, Kaptanpaşa Mah. Piyale Paşa Bulvarı, services, with efficient, quality service. BOSPHORUS TOURS Orta Doğu Plaza K:19, Okmeydanı, Şişli. Bosphorus Tours By Private Boats www.rentel.com.tr. Irmak Cad. Kaşkaval Sok. 21, T: 0212 368 8398. Half-day tours on private boats. Historical venues Private Bosphorus Yacht Tours Beyoğlu. T: 0212 444 1 434 such as the Çırağan Palace and Beylerbeyi Palace These VIP yachts will give you a Bosphorus Malaysia, Halaskargazi Cad. 150, Çankaya Apt. may also be included in the programme. experience like no other. Recommended by K:4, D:7, Şişli. T: 0212 247 1728. www.plantours.com. T: 0212 234 7777. sıghtseeıng Istanbul’s finest hotels including the Swiss Hotel, Russia, www.turkey.mid.ru. İstiklal Cad. 219, Four Seasons, The Ritz Carlton and more, our Swissôtel Big Bus Tours Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 5101. yachts will give you all the comforts of a 5-star Owned by the hotel, The İstanbul, extends the Big Bus Tours provides the perfect introduction and Karaköy piers all day long to the Bosphorus, minutes. www..gov.tr hotel as you enjoy the beauty of the Bosphorus. Konaklar Mah. Çamlık Cad. elegance of Swissôtel to the Bosphorus as well to İstanbul, a city that straddles two continents: , the Asian side, and Princess Islands. A special occasion in one of our yachts will go Akasyalı Sok. 6, 4. Levent. T: 0212 281 9140. TRAIN HOURS with its fine decor and food service. Brunch, lunch Europe and Asia. This carefully designed tour Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr. for the latest from special to unforgettable. Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme and dinner served during the tours. takes people to the major landmarks and historic www.southafrica.org.tr. updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851. www.kiraliktekneler.com. Arnavutköy Mah. , Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme 6am-12am. T: 0212 326 1100 ext. 8272. sites. www.bigbustours.com. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. 22, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 251 Alarko Holding A.Ş. Muallim Naci Cad. 69, Bindirdirek Mah. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. Yeşil Apt. 1/5, Metro Kazlıçeşme-Ayrılık Çeşmesi 6am-11:40pm. 5272. Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 5200. Sea Taxis Sultanahmet. T:0212 283 1396. The underground railway in Istanbul has 4 Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme www.deniztaksi.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4498. Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sok. 16, 1. Levent. European lines (3 in service, all will be extended; 6am-7am (10 min) consulates T: 0212 270 7410. 1 under construction); 2 Asian lines (1 in service, 7am-10am(7min) Su Samuru SPECIAL TOURS With their specially built boats and a well-trained will be extended; 1 under construction), with 65 10am-4pm (10min) İstanbul Walks Argentina, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cad. 9, K: 16, Switzerland, Büyükdere Cad. 173, 1. Levent team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service stations inservice. www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. 4pm-8pm (7min) The only travel agency which organises more 34367, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 243 1170. Plaza A Blok K:3, Levent. T: 0212 283 1282. year round. www.su-samuru.com. 8pm-12am (10min) than 40 İstanbul tours in English, inc the Istanbul -Aksaray-Atatürk International Airport T: 0533 777 7718. Azerbaijan, Sümbül Sok. 17/1, Levent. United Arab Emirates, M1A: Aksaray, Emniyet/Fatih, Ulubatlı/Topkapı, Classic, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace, the FEES T: 0212 325 8042. www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. Bayrampaşa-Maltepe, Sağmacılar, Kartaltepe/ Jewish Quarter, Blue Mosque Area, Bosphorus İstanbul Kart/Akbil electronic ticket Büyükdere Cad. Meşeli Sok. 11, 4. Levent. Kocatepe, , , Terazidere, HELI SERVICES Cruise, Walk in Asia and much more. China, www.chinaembassy.org.tr. Kireçburnu and all others: T: 0212 317 9257. Davutpaşa/Yıldız Teknik Üniversitesi, , www.istanbulwalks.com. Şifahamamı Sok. 1, K:1, Mah. Mısırlı Cad. Memduhpaşa Yalısı 6/8, Sarıyer. Full rate: 2,15 TL Student: 1,10 TL Disabled, Helicopter Tour Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 6300-01. T: 0212 299 2634. Zeytinburnu, Bakırköy-İncirli, Bahçelievler, Ataköy- 65 Years and over: Free of Charge Helicopter Tour offers touristic heli tours over the , www.britishembassy.org.tr. Şirinevler, Yenibosna, DTM/İstanbul Fair Center, Meşrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Transfer Fees: city and rents its helis for any destination. The Finland, Yeni Çamlık Cad. Ayaz Sok. 5, 4. Levent. Airport T: 0212 334 6400. Full rate: (1st transfer) 1,60 TL company has three types of tour with different TOURISM T: 0212 283 5737. Esenler, Menderes, Üçyüzlü, Bağcılar, Kirazlı (2nd transfer) 1,50 TL content and length; the small tour, the big tour and M1B- City Tourim and Culture Directorate USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. (3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 1,30TL the mega tour. www.helicoptertouristanbul.com. France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal M2-Yenikapı-Hacıosman www.istanbulkulturturizm.gov.tr. Main Office, Alay İstinye Mah. Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, İstinye. Student: (1st transfer) 0,45TL, T: 0533 969 0977. Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 334 8730. Yenikapı, Vezneciler, Haliç, Şişhane, Taksim, Köşkü, Gülhane Parkı içi, Eminönü. T: 0212 335 9000. , Şişli/Mecidiyeköy, Gayrettepe, Levent, (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 0,45TL 4.Levent, , İTÜ Ayazağa, Atatürk Oto Sanayi, Taxis Luxury Darüşşafaka, Hacıosman The bright yellow taxis are available around the transportation -Başakşehir clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best Metrokent, Başak Konutları, , Turgut Özal, to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues Yasaroglu Limousine & Luxury Services İkitelli, Sanayi, Olimpiyat Ziya Gökalp Mah, İstoç, and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, Based in İstanbul, we offer unforgettable Mahmutbey, Yeni Mahalle, Kirazlı with the same tariff now for both day and night. experiences in luxury services. Together with Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, the top model luxurious vehicles all the time, TRAMS AND FUNICULARS and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries professional and presentable drivers fluent in Istanbul is served by three separate tramway to agree a price in advance. at least a foreign language and all the luxurious systems. The Asian side has a heritage tramline, These are a safe mode of transport day and night. transportation solutions such as private aircraft, whereas the European side has both a heritage yacht and helicopter, Yasaroglu Limousine & tramline and a modern tram system. Istanbul is Train Luxury Services has been offering the best quality also served by two underground funicular rail- SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION service since 1980. 444 0 925. ways, of very different ages and styles. TCDD station located on the European side. [email protected] MARMARAY Visitors may buy tickers at the counter here for all www.yasaroglulimousine.com We let our customers enjoy the beauty of the and customer satisfaction with our unparalleled A major transportation infrastructure project of destinations to Europe and elsewhere in Turkey. Bosphorus to the fullest. We work with Turkey’s VIP Bosphorus Tour. In short, we love our work. 76km-long commuter rail system, Marmaray’s Trains to anatolian Turkey depart from Haydarpaşa RENT A CAR elite agencies and companies as well as İstanbul’s We know that the Bosphorus is worth seeing and 13.6 km railway part is opened in Oct. 2014 and; station near Kadıköy on the asian side. five-star hotels. Our portfolio also includes experiencing. The full beauty of the Bosphorus is connecting European and Asian sides of Istanbul For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 527 0050. Airport Tours ultra-luxury yachts to meet our customers’ needs. hidden in the details, and the details are hidden in via a 1.4 km immersed tube tunnel beneath Seabuses www.airport-tours.com. Atatürk Airport Den Den Yachts guarantees the finest conditions Den Den Yachts. the Bosphorus. Marmaray joins the stations at International Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 465 4550. Seabuses operate on 19 lines, and serve 32 points. Yenikapı, Sirkeci and Kazlıçeşme in Europe with www..com.tr. T: 0212 444 4436. the stations at Üskudar and Ayrılık Çeşmesi in Avis Arnavutköy Mah. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. No:22 Beşiktaş /İstanbul Tel: +90212 251 52 72 Mobile: +90533 447 10 47 www.avis.com.tr. T: 444 2847. Asia, making it possible to cross from Old Istanbul FAST FERRY LINES www.kiraliktekneler.com • [email protected] • [email protected] in Europe to Üsküdar in Asia in a matter of Yenikapı-Bursa-Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Bandırma-

68 WHERE İstanbul I December 2014 December 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 69 Central Istanbul Map

T: +90212 251 52 72 www.kiraliktekneler.com [email protected] [email protected] ∆ PRIVATE YACHT RENTAL [ WHERe IN Ista nbul] My Perfect Day

Which of İstanbul's historic venues Do you have any favourite galleries or impresses you most? museums? Dolmabahçe Palace, with its architectural The Sakıp Sabancı Museum, which has features and aesthetics, is a work of art and hosted many outstanding collections, is one one of the most beautiful structures on the of my favourite places to visit. The Museum’s İstanbul skyline. It has left a mark on history, collection of calligraphy, paintings and and when you tour it, it takes you on a journey furniture is made up of classic works, and is back into history. Even the fine wrought genuinely worth seeing. Another favourite of ironwork along its Bosphorus shore is beautiful. mine is Rampa Gallery.

What are your favourite places to shop? İstinyePark is comfortable with its open-air design, and Akmerkez is great because it has some of my favourite shops. Which shops? I would never want to be without Beymen and Hugo Boss! Murat Ünal (General Manager of Arte Gioia)

What is your first choice in İstanbul for Arte Gioia has the world’s best Turkish and Ottoman cuisine? brands of watches, jewelry and For Ottoman cuisine, the first place to come pens for the enthusiast. One of to mind is Hünkâr; it preserves its spirit with both its flavours and its fine presentation. My the best addresses in town that favourite dishes there are the Hünkâr Beğendi offers this beautiful collection is and the tomato pilaf. managed by Mr. Murat Ünal. We had a nice chat with Mr. Ünal to talk about his favorite locations of İstanbul.

Any particular neighbourhood that you The brand for stylish kids especially enjoy? İstanbul is a city where every street, shore Tesvikiye Mah. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. No:24/B Nisantası, lstanbul Tel: 0212 236 36 49 and corner holds its own secrets. I love the Which of İstanbul’s fish restaurants do you Bosphorus; it’s where I spent my childhood feel most at home in? www.mikihouse.co.jp and so it’s full of memories for me. Emirgan, The first restaurant that comes to mind is [email protected] Please with its woods, mansions and many Balıkçı Kahraman. Not only do they prepare instagram/mikihouseistanbul ask your fascinating stories, is one of my favourite turbot better than any other restaurant in concierge neighbourhoods to stroll. the city, their tomato salad and their amazing for more olive oil are addictive! details

72 WHERE İstanbul I DECEMBER 2014 www.wheretraveler.comwww.wheretraveler.comwww.wheretraveler.com 83