DECEMBER 2014 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO® istanbul ® ISSN: 1309-3851 ISSN: PANERAI: LUXURY TIMEPIECES CELEBRATE NEW YEAR’S EVE JAZZ & CLASSICAL MUSIC STARS TOP CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITIONS + ... anD much more Istanbul December 2014 the guide 14 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events. 22 GALLERIES National and commercial art galleries. 26 ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs. 36 SHOPPING Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores 50 DINING Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine 66 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information. Tips for getting around town. Contents ON THE COVER 6 HOT DATES 26 ASTOUNDING FLAMENCO Panerai: Time and Elegance Don’t miss concerts by powerful British Consisting of seven brothers, Los Vivancos songwriter Morrissey, excellent pianis İdil Biret perform a wild flamenco show at Cemal Reşit Rey STAY IN TOUCH and programme in memory of Rumî. Auditorium. Get your tickets early! Follow us on twitter @where_istanbul 12 BOSPHORUS DELICACIES 72 MY PERFECT DAY Like us on facebook.com/ Enjoy an unforgettable seafood dinner at the Murat Ünal, general manager of Arte Gioia, whereistanbulmagazine peaceful Bosphorus restaurant Limani, shares some of the most pleasant spots in Where is the largest global prepared by Chef Selçuk Gönen. İstanbul. publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and operating in 76 cities worldwide. DECEMBER 2014 I WHERE İSTANBUL 1 Your traveling companion since 1936® ® WELCOME Editor's Letter wheremagazine WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDITORIAL The countdown to 2015 has begun! EDITOR Dilek Koç Yet another year is coming to a close, and the last days of 2014 are filled with concerts, MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı exhibitions and fairs. It’s the month to catch some of the top names in classical music, CONTRIBUTING editor Emma Levine ENGLISH edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer including Joshua Bell, İdil Biret, the Borusan Philharmonic Orchestra and the Munich DESIGNER Tijen Tezel Chamber Orchestra (p. 27). World-famous jazz artists appear at Nardis Jazz Club, İş contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal Sanat Cultural Center and the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall (p. 27). DEPUTY edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr During this last month of the year, the streets are already overflowing with reminders Photo edıtor Sami Atalan of the season, with beautiful giftware and brilliantly decorated windows. consultant Aynur Koç RESPONSIBLE edıtor Aslı Koç The museums have opened a host of new exhibitions to visitors, including modern ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT works by Turkish photographer Şahin Kaygun at İstanbul Modern, and Karanlıkta SALES DIRECTORS Gökkuşağı (‘Rainbow in the Darkness’) (p. 24), an exhibition focusing on social issues, Zeynep Sezer [email protected] at Salt Galata (p. 25). The exhibition Eski İstanbul Fotoğrafları Koleksiyonu (‘Old İstanbul Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya Photographs’ Collection) at the Pera Museum will make you feel as if you’ve witnessed the [email protected] city’s past first-hand (p. 18). busıness develoPment & marKetıng MARKeting DIREctor Mahmut Bölükbaş The arrival of cold weather never makes a dent in İstanbul’s bustling life. The bars and [email protected] nightclubs in Karaköy and Şişhane are full to overflowing as always. Check out their Productıon many food and entertainment alternatives for a unique way to send off 2014. Productıon manager Aybüke Kevser assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak Every corner of the city offers something to be fascinated by, but don’t leave the city controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen without seeing İstanbul from the Bosphorus, having Turkish coffee, tasting lokum ('Turkish delight'), trying the winter-only drink boza, and touring the Eminönü district with its many historic bazaars. WHERE (C), CEE & TURKEY DIVISION Wishing you a Happy New Year full of beauty and love, United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky REGIONAL manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul Managing Director EuroPE MORRIS Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted BY TURKuvaz matbaacılıK YAYINCILIK A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.59 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey 4 WHERE İSTANBUL I DECEMBER 2014 DECEMBER 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İSTANBUL WHERE 75 WHERE NOW | CALENDAR DECEMBER Admire the well-preserved Byzantine 1 mosaics at the Hagia Sophia Musuem (p. 16) Enjoy İdil Biret’s classical piano recital at 2 Enka İbrahim Betil Auditorium (p. 27) See contemporary artworks in many media HOT DATES 3 by Şahin Kaygun at İstanbul Modern (p. 24) Ascend the landmark Galata Tower to see 4 the best views of İstanbul (p. 15) SUNDAY Choose Turkish CDs and fashions from busy 5 shopping street İstiklal Caddesi (p. 38) Enjoy traditional fasıl music at a restaurant 6 in the historic Çiçek Pasajı ('Flower Passage'). Don’t miss English singer Morrissey’s concert 7 at the Volkswagen Arena (p. 28) 7 Taste seasonal seafood and traditional meze at MORRISSEY 8 Limani Restaurant (p. 12) English singer songwriter, and former Haggle for carpets, silks and ceramics at the famous frontman of powerful alternative band 9 Grand Bazaar (p. 38) The Smiths, Morrissey performs his Take a tour of Topkapı Palace, and see how the poetic songs in a powerful concert at 10 Ottoman sultans lived (p. 19) Volkswagen Arena (p. 28). Enjoy a brilliant concert by the French-Belgian 11 chanteuse Viktor Lazlo (p. 27) View the group exhibition Karanlıkta Gökkuşağı 12 ('Rainbow in the Dark') at Salt Galata (p. 25) Spend a lovely evening with a laid-back vibe 13 at Ritim Galata (p. 53) Savour a delicious breakfast overlooking the 14 Bosphorus at Yeniköy Gazebo (p. 53) TUESDAY Join local fashionistas in Nişantaşı, with İstanbul’s 15 best Turkish designer boutiques (p. 38) Catch the celebrated violinist Joshua Bell in 16 concert at Zorlu Center (p. 27) Find your favourite Oriental rugs and carpets 2 17 at Nakkaş emporium (p. 41) Enjoy the Şeb-i Arus programme at Zorlu Center İDİL BİRET 18 PSM, commemorating Prophet Rumi (p. 40) Considered one of the finest Visit the stunning Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque pianists of her generation, 19 with its ornate tiled interior (p. 20) and possessing an extensive Have lunch at the landmark restaurant Pandeli, knowledge of the Romantic period, 20 nestled inside the Spice Market (p. 64). Turkish pianist İdil Biret performs Visit the new Hisart Living History and Diorama works by Chopin and Scriabin, 21 Museum reflecting historic events (p. 16) among others, at the Enka İbrahim Explore the mysterious Basilica Cistern, dating Betil Auditorium (p. 27). 22 back to Byzantine times (p. 15) Enjoy Spanish, French and Italian cuisine at TUESDAY 23 the stylish restaurant The Galliard (p. 59) Spend a fun-filled day at the contemporary 24 shopping mall İstinye Park (p. 39) Take part in the St. Anthony of Padua Church’s 25 Christmas service (p. 14) Treat yourself to a relaxing soak and massage at 18 26 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Baths (p. 45) Do your holiday shopping at Mall of İstanbul, IN MEMORY OF RUMî 27 than relax in the cinema (p.39) Mevlânâ, better known in the Western world as Rumî, is now known Enjoy a delicious Sunday brunch with fruity throughout the world via translations of his books, Masnavi and the 28 cocktails at Ortaköy The House Café (p. 54) Divan-i Kabir. On the 741st anniversary of his death, or reunification Explore the busy streets of Karaköy with its with God, his book is brought to life through the voice of actor, 29 traditional workshops. narrator and television host Okan Bayülgen, and the semâ ritual with Tour the tile art exhibition Troyalı Hektor music by Ottoman composer Dede Efendi. Don’t miss this moving 30 ('Hector of Troy') at the Rahmi Koç Museum (p. 25). programme at Zorlu Center PSM. See out 2014 with the special New Year’s Eve 31 concert at Nardis Jazz Club (p. 27). 6 WHERE İstANBUL I DECEMBER 2014 WHERE NOW | İSTANBUL iN 2014 PANERAI: TIME AND ELEGANCE Manufacturing top-of-the-line watches since 1997, prominent Italian brand Officine Panerai presents its new models to the delight of anyone with a passion for fine timepieces. Special Edition: Radiomir The new Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso – 47mm is a special edition of great elegance, combining the deep blue of the ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING dial and alligator strap with the warm glow of the case made of 5Npt red gold with a copper alloy. Faithfully preserving the style of the first watch, created by Officine Panerai for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy in 1936, this is a special edition created in just 200 units.