Shirak Regional Office 24

GIUMRI

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GIUMRI (“Gyumri”) GIUMRI (Gyumri) “The Anabasis” as did the Greek historian Copper Bronze Age Excavations dug as recently Herodotus writing of the area in his 4th c.

¶ÛáõÙñÇ as in 2005 have uncovered 1500-900 BCE History. The Anabasis recounted the epic journey INTRODUCTION gravesites in the city of Giumri itself, inside the by Xenophon and the “ten thousand” who After surviving “Black Fort” (South Tower). marched through Armenia en route to the Black Yerevan’s rampant Sea in 401 BCE, describing part of the territory By Rick Ney growth and swirling In Giumri, prehistoric excavations include the they marched through as Gumnias, or current Maps & Graphics by Rafael Torossian dust, you will find South Tower (Black Fortress), Cherkezi Dzor, the Giumri. Edited by Bella Karapetian welcome respite and area of poultry farm, Vardbagh & the Turbaza. warm hospitality in

Giumri. The capital of Kumaiyri – Urartu, Greek & Roman Giumri Armenia during the The mythical beginning of Giumri is recorded by Russian era (1821- the 5th c historian Movses Khorenatsi, who 1918), Old Kumaiyri, recounted that the founder of the Armenian present day Giumri, is a nation, Haik, sent his grandson Aramis with all living museum of grand his family, to a fertile land above Mt. Aragats, architecture and joie de vivre, a place of parks where the waters flowed. The place he resided and promenades, its distinct red and black tufa was called Shirak after him. The place was called buildings a hallmark of a bygone age, Armenia’s Kumaiyri. Belle Époque. Giumri was enriched as an

important outpost of the Russian Empire, and fortunes were made catering to the Tsars and spent on opulent dwellings and public buildings.

Most of these buildings have survived, over 1000 forming the largest collection of intact historic TABLE OF CONTENTS buildings in the Caucasus.

The Medieval Era GIUMRI It is just now that Giumri has re-emerged as a With the advent of Christianity, Gregori HISTORY (p. 4) serious destination. Once Armenia’s Second City, Lousavoritch is known to have established Map of Giumri (p. 7) with a population of around 250,000, the city churches in Kumaiyri, on the ruins of pagan Map of Old Center (p. 10) suffered tremendous loss in the 1988 earthquake temples he had torn down. Among these are the which immediately killed 24,000 people and sites of the current S. N’shan and Yot Verk (7 NAVIGATING THE CITY devastated much of the Soviet style ‘new city’. wounds) churches in the city. WALKING TOURS (p. 6) Most of the old center survived, and a growing

economy and cultural life have rejuvenated much Kumaiyri was also mentioned by the 8th c. CE SIGHTS (p. 11) of the city (though it must now bow to Vanadzor writer Ghevond Yeretz (Leon the Priest) writing of MONUMENTS & PARKS for bragging rights as second most populated city the city in relation with the rebellion against the MUSEUMS in Armenia) and make this a must-see The historical beginning of Giumri starts with Arab Umayyad and then Abbasid dynasties. THE ARTS destination. You may have to start your trip in Assyrian descriptions of the area and a cuneiform

THEATRE Yerevan, but for some clean air, real history, inscription for the Urartian King Argishti I (8th c Kumaiyri remained a backwater during the heady FILM lively humor and warm hospitality, visit Giumri. BCE), which can still be found on a mount at days of Bagratuni, Kamsarakan, Pahlavuni and ART GALLERIES/MUSEUMS Vahramaberd Village (Marmashen), near Giumri. Orbelian rule (8th-13th cc), as the great city of CHURCHES HISTORY The inscription reads "By the Glory of Khaldi, the Ani and the regional capital of Kars took focus Giumri’s history is contemporary to that of god Argishti says: I invaded the land of the away from the small town of Kumaiyri. Much of PRACTICALITIES (p. 17) Yerevan’s though the city to the south has Yeriakhi tribe, invaded Irdaniuni city up to Giumri’s fascination and later attempts to In And Out claimed the title of oldest in the country. Truth Ishkikulu land". It further refers to the people of recapture Ani’s glory days are traced to this time, Around be told, though, Giumri’s is just as old, and may Kuliaini, the city’s first name. and to the people who descended from these two Tour Agencies, Guides even be older than its hot cousin, its location in great medieval cities, especially in the 19th c as Communication the upper elevations making inhabitation Urartian artifacts in Giumri include fragments of Turkish pogroms and mass murders accelerated Maps, Money, Film, Clinics, Etc. preferable in the Stone Age to its still smoldering belts and clay found on the grounds of the in Western Armenia, forcing hundreds of Overnight (p. 19) cousin to the south. hospital on Shirakatsi Street in Giumri (known as thousands of Armenian descendants o emigrate Food & Drink (p. 20) White hospital among Giumretsis). Telman to the city, giving birth under Tsarist protection to Evidence of developed human activity and the Khachaturian made the excavation. These RESOURCES (p. 21) a new Golden Age in the country, and Giumri. first large settlement in Giumri (on the hills to the findings are considered to be casual and currently

west of the modern city, around Sev Ghul or are preserved in the National Museum of History. Empire City The most remarkable period of Black Tower) is placed to around 5000 BCE, development was during the 19th c. when Shirak about the same time as that to the south. The Greek historian and military leader Xenophon (ca. 430-355) mentions Kumaiyri in his book, became a part of the Russia Empire, and Shirak Marz: Giumri: page 4 of 23 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition

Kumaiyri its regional center. The area was a copy of the famous cathedral of Ani, crowned retook Alexandropol for the Soviet Union, By the 1980’s the city had reached 250,000 and absorbed into the Empire in 1804, during the first the skyline and marked the highpoint of declaring a Soviet Republic in 1921. was a major industrial production center for the Russo-Persian war. The Russian period initiated a monumental construction in the city. Soviet Union. The petty corruption that had period of tremendous growth and development Soviet Period existed in the country since before the for the city. A heretofore-feudal society was In 1899, the Tbilisi-Alexandropol, later the If Giumri’s growth in the 19th c was impressive, Communists became rampant as a general pushed into the industrial revolution, creating an Alexandropol-Yerevan-Persia railways made that of the Soviet period was extraordinary, if economic and political malaise engulfed the extraordinarily rich and educated class of citizens, Giumri/Alexandropol a major point on the line, never as architecturally beautiful. Both the country. While not in all cases, construction was a new Golden Age. Chosen for its strategic further feeding its growth. The city reached an population and heavy industrialization increased a prime target, with engineers approving sub location along the Akhurian Valley, Kumaiyri held extraordinary level of sophistication in design, 8-fold within the next forty years. code designs and contractors skimming off the a huge fortress still used by Russian soldiers with over 1000 surviving samples of the period as supplies when building apartments and offices. guarding the Armenian frontier. Military testament. A love of culture also ensued, with In 1924 the city was renamed Leninakan in This and Leninakan’s status as a Closed Military barracks established in the city include Poligons, art galleries, design firms, theatres and musical memory of the leader of the Russian Revolution city had terrible consequences in 1988. Severski and Kazachi Posts, sites of several entertainments imported from Russia and Europe. on Lenin's death. With the decision to make prehistoric excavations. Yerevan the new Earthquake At the end of 19th century Alexandropol was capital, most of the The 1988 earthquake shook the By 1837 the city had grown enough it was equal in importance to Tbilisi and Baku, these money in the republic city on December 7, instantly granted an imperial visit by the Russian Czar cities also Armenian centers in the Caucasus. went to that city and killing 10,000 people as row after Nicholas I, who was said to have renamed the Giumri’s citizens (“Giumretsi”) delight in this fact, its grand designs for row of Soviet buildings (the “New town Alexandropol after his wife, Alexandra proud of a time when their city dwarfed the then the new face of Soviet Leninakan”) collapsed on its Feodorovna. However others note the name was village of Yerevan, which was its backwater town, Armenia. Considered inhabitants. The scenes of actually derived from the Russian Saint Alexandra much as Giumri once was for Ani. At a time a military strongpoint destruction were followed by (also the name of the church in the Alexandropol when Yerevan was barely two streets long, and so a closed city, horrific tales of agonizing deaths Fortress in the city). The city was also referred to Giumri had a complex grid of streets, running and Giumri fell into 2nd city and attempts at recovery, as well as ‘Alekpol’ in local dialect. In 1840 Giumri was (then) modern sewerage drainage and the finest status, but was spared as heroic actions by people all formally granted status as a city, and in 1850 it shops, theatres and colleges in the State. the demolition of the over the world to bring aid to the became the capital of the “Alexandropol Region of historic district. The destroyed city. Locals are still the Caucasus State of Yerevan”. The Belle Époque in Giumri was complimented by face of Soviet Giumri unable to speak of the horrors of writings of the poet Avetik Isahakian, its gusans went first into the that event without coming to (bards) and folk singers (Jivani, Sheram, Fahrad, construction of the tears and any mention of the Khaiyat and others). The Armenian opera “Stalin Shenks” on G. event or the help that followed is “Anush” was first performed in Alexandropol in Njdeh poghota, which often followed by “let’s talk of 1912. The city was famous for its schools and carefully complemented the Belle Époque something else”. colleges where Armenian, Russian, Latin and buildings in the Old Center. The worst designs Greek languages were taught along with were reserved for the Brezhnev and late Soviet In addition, following the earthquake and philosophy and sciences. The development of periods, far from the center. Armenia’s independence and war with Azerbaijan education fomented a freedom movement and over the Armenian enclave of Nagorno Karabakh, underground cells, culminating in the events of Giumri/Leninakan faced the same sacrifices as all the entire economy collapsed and all supplies of the Russian revolution and eventual usurpation of Armenia during the Second World War. With a gas to the country were halted by Turkey and the by the Soviet State. population of 2 million, Armenia contributed Azeris. Years of suffering followed, with a mass 650,000 soldiers, 315,000 of which died during exodus of Armenians, a migration out of the Genocide the 6-year conflict. Some say 30% of the male country as large as that into the country following Giumri was host to thousands of refugees population of Giumri died. the 1915 genocide. From somewhere around 3.5 escaping the genocide, the greatest influx coming million, Armenia experienced the loss of 1.5 from nearby Kars. Like Giumri, Kars owed much An industrial boom began after the war, creating million, and Giumri fell from 250,000 to barely to and perhaps derived its people from the old jobs for 50,000 people in Giumri. Huge textile 125,000 now. The Armenian Belle Époque city of Ani. It is likely that people from Kars and heavy industry factories were built, as were Giumri / Alexandropol was a major center for outnumbered the native population, and to this the wretched “Khrushev” buildings that surround Most of Giumri’s able-bodied population left the trade and craft. By 1860 the number of day people make a distinction between “Karsetsi” the old city. Workers from through the Soviet city in pursuit of work, most to Russia. So many craftsmen in the city reached more than 5,000, and Giumretsi”. Union came to Giumri to staff the factories, one have gone to Russia that there is joke running busy constructing the unique Giumri architecture, street that housed Russian girls working the around quoting Russia’s President Putin saying of with its ornamental use of black and red tufa and Following the collapse of the Russian Empire and textile factories becoming a popular haunt of Armenia’s president, “Who is the president of florid carved wood, rivaling that of Tbilisi and the short-lived First Republic in 1918-1920, the young men and nick-named “Syphilis Street”. Armenia? I am the real president of Armenia”. Baku while sharing the same “Armenian Belle Red Army reentered the area through Lori and And in fact, there are more Armenians in Russia Époque” designs. The construction of then in Armenia, as there are more in the USA. Amnaprkitch (all savior) Cathedral in 1858-1876,

and black ornamental tufa hallmarks of the and referring to locations as “Gagik’s street”, it is Giumri Now Armenian Belle Époque. impossible to get completely lost in the Old Finally, thirteen years after the earthquake one Center, where you will spend most of your time. Armenian donor, along with a Norwegian Agency, You will rarely find yourself more than 10 minutes Before and After finally started a comprehensive project to rebuild walk from any point, 15-20 minutes if you hike all and construct new housing. Within 3 years 90% the up to Aznavor Square. Most Giumretsis mark their lives by “Before the of earthquake victims were finally housed in Earthquake” and “After the earthquake,” even the What is called the Old Center is anchored by permanent housing, with around 1000 people young born after 1988 still recounting the epic Freedom Square and Haghtanaki Blvd., with its remaining in domiks (metal shipping containers) struggles of those horrific times as if they were their historic streets spanning outwards from these two 13 years after the earthquake. own. Even now they cannot go forward ion their points. lives without knowing that they replace someone who was lost, someone who died, in ‘the earthquake’.

It is hard to imagine how horrible the events of 1988

was except if you lived through it, and even the most graphic description of bodies crushed by the weight of three floors of apartments, or those surviving the To the west of the square, up Gai and Sheraz tremors only to succumb the subzero temperatures Sts., are still more historic buildings and Gorki of the worst winter in memory, can conjure the true (Central) Park, with its magnificent view of the horror of the event. Still, some images survive, Russian built “Black Fort” (South Tower), Mother searing my imagination with their awful details. Armenia statue and the Turkish border. Follow Ozanian p., which skirts the outer edge of the One friend told me one of her worst visions of the park, and you will pass the Stadium, the Black earthquake came afterwards, as the shock wore off Fort itself and end up at Mother Armenia. and people began to comb the city for lost relatives and friends. She came with her uncle to the square South of Freedom Square is All Savior’s Park, in front of the old Univermag, which had collapsed in The Russian Chapel, Giumri’s Shuka, more the earthquake (and is now a new college and bank), Haghtanaki (Ð³ÕÃ³Ý³ÏÇ ) Blvd is the most historic streets and the Bus Station (Aftokaiyan). but became the focus of the entire city, the square in likely street you will enter the city by car from front converted into a giant outdoor morgue, as body Yerevan. The street is home to the Old Giumri Just north of Peace Circle is Sayat Nova p., after body was brought and laid out on the frozen museum and Berlin Gast Haus. The streets just which runs up to Independence Square. The area ground, ringing the Lenin statue. Survivors came to east are filled with historic homes in this area are west of here includes the Giumri State Theatre, the square like specters in the snow, some frantically still inhabited by working class locals. The streets the Poloz Mukuch tavern, Beer Factory and S. The 19th century jewels in the Old Center are a searching for lost loved ones, other collapsing in the are narrow and asphalt is mostly nonexistent, but Grigor Lousavoritch. much happier story: surviving mostly intact from snow as they found the body of someone they knew, they are filled with the bustle of family life and the earthquake, the historic heart of the city, with doubling up in agony and moaning in pain. friendly atmosphere. Historically important, this its beautiful Armenian Belle Époque design, has WALKING TOURS is also a real neighborhood. There are two walking tours of Old Giumri. The been salvaged and is a walking museum of over “Everywhere. Throughout the city. You cold go no tours highlight some of the incredible architecture 1000 structures, the largest collection of intact where but people were crying, screaming. Wailing,” Freedom Square - ²½³ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³Ï of Old Giumri, or “Alexandropol” as it was called historical buildings in the Caucasus. she said. “It is a vision I can never forget. is one block west of Haghtanaki, and is the heart during its heyday in the Russian Imperial period.

Silence. And then the choked-off tears and a soft, of the city, with its fountains, Cinema, the Yot Each a unique story, these buildings and their Giumri’s economy is mostly based on remittances steady drone in her voice, “Let’s change the subject. Vert Diocese Church and the reborn All Savior designs make up what is called the Armenian from family members working abroad ($1 Let’s talk about something else.” Cathedral. Art galleries and museums are Belle Époque. billion+), with that money being used to create located in this area, along old Abovian and small shops and businesses and a steadily Shahumian streets to the north, with historic To see the tours, open the Giumri Walking Tour improving standard of life. With reconstruction, neighborhoods found on both sides of these PDF. life in the city has become more predictable, and After independence in 1991, the city was streets, past Rustaveli p. and up to Alex the gentle demeanor of the Giumretsi, and their renamed Giumri, but locals still use Leninakan, Manugian p. fabled humor and hospitality, has rebounded. remembering a pleasanter time and better life.

Giumri’s “little vernisage” is the pedestrian-only Overlooking the potholes and lack of paving in Rizhkov, northeast of the square, which leads to the side streets (or maybe because of he lack NAVIGATING THE CITY Gorki Street and Peace Circle and Sayat Nova paving) you can imagine an older time, the red Despite local’s notorious puncheon for ignoring district. The Train Station is at the eastern end of street names (forget about street name changes) Gorki Street, a 15-minute walk from the Circle.

GIUMRI MAP LEGEND (Full Map and Center)

See next two pages for legend, which covers all three maps: North, South and Center.

GIUMRI MAP LEGEND (Full Map and Center)

OVERNIGHT 6. Dvin 9. Alhmas 10. Dghiak 12. Isuz 36. Arax 57. Berlin Gast Haus 67. Yerazank – Ani District

B&B 27a. Melsida’s B&B 29. Satik’s B&B

FOOD & DRINK 1. Garun Restaurant 13. Di Napoli Restaurant & Shara RestaurantS 16. Khaits Ishkhan Restaurant 19. Kilikia Restaurant 27. Ravenna Restaurant 34. Poloz Mukuch Tavern 35. Jrahars Bistro 41. Café Khudozhnik (Melsida’s) 42. 38 Gorku’ 49. Vanatur Restaurant – Georgian 50. Siro Khariskh Restaurant 51. Kalinka Bistro 53. Kamar Bistro 54. Kumaiyri Restaurant 55. Oasis Restaurant 59. Phaeton Alek Restaurant 66. Parvana Restaurant / Motel 68. Cicilia Bistro – ANI District 69. Venezia Bistro – ANI District

OUTDOOR CAFÉ 38. Café Flamingo 39. Café Robinson Crusoe 45. Café Monte Carlo

BUS - MARSHRUTNI TAXI 65. Aftokaiyan

TRAIN 28. Railroad Station

MUSEUM, ART GALLERY 14. Museum of Nature 31. Mher Mkrtchian Home-Mus. 32. A. Isahakian Home-Mus. 33. Kumaiyri Preserve 37. Hovhannes Shiraz Home-Mus. 42. Aslamazian Sisters Home-Mus. 52. Style Art Gallery 60. Mus. Of National Architecture 61. Merkurov Home-Mus.

GIUMRI CENTER MAP GIUMRI MAP LEGEND (Full Map and Center)

z MONUMENT, SITE 5. Lord Byron 7. Charles Aznavor Square 15. Lenin 20. “Haiyuhi” 23. Avetik Isahakian 26. Armen Tigranian 55a. Gusans 57. Zoravar Andranik 63. Garegin Nzhdeh 64. Mother Armenia / Hayastan

CHURCH 21. S. Grigor Lusavorich 30. S. N’shan 47. S. Astvatsatsin (“Yot Verk”) 56. Amnaprkitch Cathedral 62. “Pelpelan Zham” Russian

THEATRE 22. Adjemian Dramatic Theatre 44. Puppet Theatre 46. Hoktember Cinema

SHOPS, SHUKA

STADIUM

INTERNET, PHONE, POST

GOVT. OFFICE 17. Shirak Regional Office 24. Giumri Mayor

APOTEKA

CLINIC, HOSPITAL 2. Maternity Hospital 3. Italian Hospital 4. Samarit Hospital 8. Diagnostic Center 11. Austrian Children’s Hospital 18. #2 Polyclinic 25. Children’s Dental Clinic 40. #1 Polyclinic 48. #2 Dental Clinic 70. Int’l Red Cross – ANI District

CEMETERY

SIGHTS the tower is usually closed, but take along a guide to gain entry (Stepan Ter Margaryan can When the Southern Caucasus were added to the Russian Empire (late get you in). 1820’s) the immediate concern was for the protection of the new border, MONUMENTS & PARKS The tower was the subject of excavations the and the defensive barriers required to secure the hundreds of km of Giumri has several monuments and parks worth summer of 2005 when the new owner (who frontier. The existing medieval fortresses, among them Akhalkalaki, visiting, the most interesting within walking wants to convert it into a performance complex Akhaltsikhe, and Giumri, were no longer up to the challenge of protecting the border against much more modern adversaries. Russian military distance of the Old Center. and hotel) uncovered a central well and Russian engineers decided to construct a new line of defense systems, anchored on artifacts. Further excavation showed a complex the town of Giumri. The design of 10 outer defense structures was of burial chambers from the 15th – 10th ordered Tsar Nikolai I in the early 1830s, and on June 21, 1835 the Tsar centuries BCE. The owner seems willing to signed a decree approving the design of the new Giumri fortress. preserve the valuable archeological finds and incorporate them into his renovation plans. Construction began in parallel with the design of the fortress. At the end of October 1837, during a familiarization trip to the Southern Caucasus,

RED FORT - Î³ÑÙÇÑ ÔÁÕÉ (closed to the Tsar visited Giumri to study the progress of the new fort and while here, ordered the fort to be renamed Alexandropol Fortress and the city visitors) Alexandropol. Following military regulations, the new fortress was This massive fortress is really a complex of forts, designated a Class II fortress with Class I artillery armament. Around barracks and Army administrative buildings, all 15,000 military personnel cold be accommodated in the huge compound.

inhabited by the Russian military. The Russians But the site has a much older history. Early 20th c excavations showed still protect the frontier with Turkey, and locals settlement on the grounds from at the 3rd millennium BCE, while the first warily accept their presence. The fort is the most casual findings were made during construction of the fortress in 1875, likely candidate for significant archeological finds which uncovered a burial site named “Warrior’s Grave” because of the going back the beginnings of settlement in the weapons found at the site. The rich finds were unfortunately taken to St. Giumri area, and there is an outstanding Russian Petersburg where they currently reside at the Hermitage (along with much of Armenia’s great historical artifacts the Russians acting much like their Church within the compound, but Russians forbid British cousins by confiscating the histories and treasures of the great MOTHER ARMENIA entry to any but the most trusted (connected) civilizations of the near east). Later excavations include the same area by This mammoth sculpture, erected in 1975, dwarfs individuals. German historian Emil Rosler (1900) and B. Khalatsiants (1908); and the surrounding landscape and can be seen from systematic excavations in 1983-84 and 1998. What these digs revealed rd th th the South Tower (a.k.a. “Sev Ghul”) and more GORKI (CITY) PARK - ¶ÁÑÏÁÕ /Ù³Õ³Ù³ÛÇÝ/ was a 3 millennium BCE settlement, an Iron Age necropolis and a 6 -5 cc BCE settlement from the early Armenian (Yervandian/Orontic) period. easily at the rotunda in Gorki Park. The statue ½μÁË³Û·Ç was designed by Ara Sargsian and Yerem This beautiful oasis on the Western edge of the South Tower (Sev Ghul). In 1834, the first drawings of the defensive Vardanian (architect Raphael Yeghoian) and is 18 city has been a green space for centuries, first as South tower were made, with construction perhaps starting at the same m tall. However with the base it soars a full 41 a family cemetery and Military park, then as the time. The tower served as both a watch for the Akhurian valley and a military prison. The tower is truly round, its massive circular walls lined meters into the air. The statue received main public park for the city. The park has a with living quarters, jail cells and storage rooms. A deep well was dug in immediate complaints from Turkey when it was number of statues, including busts of writers the middle of the compound, supposed to supply drinking water. By the erected, the Turks calling the statue of a Avetik Isahakian and Hovhannes Shiraz, a 1870s the well was abandoned and slowly filled up with rubble and dirt, victorious Armenian Women a political wooden totem, several carved tufa pieces and a and at the end of the Soviet Union (1990) the Russian army deserted the provocation. It is in plain sight of the Turkish wonderfully kitsch Soviet era statue of a woman South Tower and for 14 years it sat vacant, vandalized and in danger of border and villages up and down the Akhurian rower. May she stand forever! falling apart. In 2005 the site was sold to a local businessman to develop the huge monument into a cultural/entertainment center (see picture). valley. If you want to get close, it is a 15 minute Plans On completion of the project the tower will become a “Festival and walk from Gorki Park. A couple of roadside Concert” centre with concert stage, museum, swimming pool and a small Khorovatz joints lie at the entrance to the hotel. monument steps. 2006 excavations. The government requires developers to sponsor SOUTH TOWER - Ê¢ ÔÁÕÉ (“SEV GHUL” OR excavations of historic property they wish to build on and excavations of “BLACK SENTRY”) Sev Ghul began in 2005 and will conclude in the fall of 2006. The Referred to as Sev Ghul, this is really the South excavation of the well recovered cannon shot, military uniform fragments Tower for the much larger Red Fort complex to (shirts, boots), pieces of kerosene lamps, horseshoes, porcelain, ceramic and glass. So far 21 meters of debris and artifacts have been cleared from the north. The tower guarded the southern the well, with still more left to uncover. Most importantly, a series of approaches and there was one of three towers prehistoric graves were found less than a meter under the inner compound originally, guarding the Yerevan, Kars and floor, a 9th-6th c BCE necropolis. Totems, vases and jewelry were found Akhaltsikha roads. If necessary the fort could with the skeletal remains, curled in a fetal position, their heads turned to hold 15,000 soldiers and their supplies. From this face the setting sun. The positioning of the body towards the East is vantage point you can see the entire Akhurian credited by church historians to Grigor Lusavorich’s attempts in the 4th c CE to break with the pagan tradition, bu in fact it began sometime around Valley, the Turkish Border, the city and beyond to the 6th C BCE, conclusively dating these remains to the previous period. the slopes of Mt. Aragats. It is not an easy hike The necropolis underwent extensive digs in 2006. (Source: Stepan Ter- to sev ghul (15-20 minutes from Gorki Park), and Margaryan)

GUSAN STATUE - ¶ÁÕË³Ý»ÑÇ ²ÑÓ³Ý is just Shirak TV. The building’s façade has some of seventeen, when his father was beaten by a outside the main entrance to Gorki Park, and Talking the talk interesting early Soviet carvings. Just above the Turk. Andranik retaliated by beating the man commemorates two of Giumri’s most famous 19th theatre is an enclosed atrium with band shell and who attacked his father, and was forced to run century gusaneri (bards), Sheram (1857-1938) Giumretsis are famous for their humor, dialect restaurant and above that the Rotunda, a neo- away. He joined the guerilla campaign, becoming and Jivani (also Djivani, 1846-1909). Sheram and special way of phrasing words and classical monument overlooking the Akhurian a leader in the 1880's. and Jivani can be considered the fathers of sentences, which the rest of the country Valley and Mother Armenia. contemporary Armenian folk songs; their delights in listening to. To the first-timer Andranik led raids against Ottomans, and the compositions are now played at most Armenian speaker, the differences may be impossible to Turks grew to fear him, saying that, "bullets celebrations, especially weddings. hear, but locals and Yerevantsis love to kid never touched the Pasha." In reality he was shot each other over whose dialect is “correct”. during battles, but survived all wounds. A From the end of the Middle Ages until the 19th seminal battle for Andranik was fought in 1901 at century, folk music was profoundly influenced by Descendants of immigrants from historic Arakelotz Vank in Mush Region, where he led a the tradition of the gusan, the famous of whom Kars, in present-day Turkey, the denizens of group of 30 that repelled 3000 Turkish soldiers. was Harutiun Sayatian, also known as Sayat Giumri speak a dialect of Armenian the Andranik's successes included the First Balkan Nova (1712?-1795). Most Armenian musicians linguists believe is the same as that spoken by War, pinning down 10,000 Turkish soldiers at consider the gusan as their intellectual guides the Bagratunis kings of medieval Ani. Maritsaget with only 250 men. In 1913, the and gusan songs are still passed from generation Bulgarian King Ferdinand conferred on Andranik to generation in many households. Giumri Phrases for the road (and to impress the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel and made him an the locals with): honorary citizen of the country. The word gusan was used at the beginning of the Andranik did not trust the Young Turks, who rose Christian era to refer to bards who sang Inch Khes? (How are you?) to power just before and during the First World Armenian legends, especially that of Muraneh War. His fears were confirmed when they (the eponymous mother of all Armenians) and Tzo (guy, as in “hey guy”) instigated the Genocide of 1915. Leading forces her son Gisaneh, from which the word gusan against them, he encouraged Russian came from. In the 17th-18th cc, the word was Up jan (brother jan) involvement and their invasion of Ottoman replaced by Ashugh, a variation of the Arabic HAGHTANAKI BOULEVARD Ur kertas? (where are you going)? controlled Armenia. word ‘ashiq which can be translated as "lover" or This tree lined boulevard will be your first entry "passionate" and which has a strong mystical point into Giumri if you come by car from He repelled additional attempts to invade significance. Inch guzes? (what do you want?) Yerevan. The Museum National Architecture and Southern Armenia and waged decisive victories in Urban Life and Merkurov Museum are located at Zangezur (“Ringing Gates” or entrance to Vayots The gusan developed urban music, exploring Dzer Karnis?! (are you kidding?!?) the south end of the boulevard, as is the large Dzor and Siunik). secular topics: romance, philosophy, epics and statue of Andranik mounted on a horse and lyric poetry. The tradition was to transmit songs Um guzak? (on telephone, “who do you collection of busts in the central median. Andranik left Armenia following the 1918 Batumi from master to an apprentice through oral want?”) Agreement, which removed the territories of repetition, much like other folk arts. What could Zangezur and Nagorno Karabakh from Armenia, not be transmitted was the gusan skill in Andzrev gukah (“It’s raining”) as well as Armenian lands taken in Turkey. improvisation, both instrumental and sung. The Feeling the politicians had betrayed the Armenian most gifted attained this ability and generally Twists on common phrases: cause he refused to honor the agreements, and signed their poems by mentioning their names at exiled himself to Paris, where he died in 1927. the end of the last verse. I want … Yerevan: “yes uzum em…” ROW OF BUSTS: ARMENIAN Attend any wedding, and you are sure to hear a Giumri: “usem ge …” REVOLUTIONARIES sample of the gusan art form, including the songs Sponsored by the Dashnaktsutiun (ARF) party, of Jivani and Sheram. This is… this row of bronze busts at the base of Yerevan: “ais eh…” Haghtanaki Boulevard are of famous ARF Giumri: “sig …” Armenians: GORKI (CITY) PARK - ¶ÁÑÏÁÕ /Ù³Õ³Ù³ÛÇÝ/

½ΜÁË³Û·Ç Gevorg V (1847-1930, Katoghikos during This beautiful oasis on the Western edge of the genocide and early Soviet era), city has been a green space for centuries, first as wonderfully kitsch Soviet era statue of a woman D’ro D'rastamat Kanahian (1884-1956, a family cemetery and Military park, then as the rower. May she stand forever! Armenian General during Genocide and Turkish main public park for the city. The park has a ANDRANIK STATUE - ²Ý¹Ñ³ÝÇÏÇ ÑÁÕß³ÑÓ³Ý invasion of 1918-1920. Aligned himself with number of statues, including busts of writers One the leaders of the Freedom Fighter There is a large building near the northern Germans during WWII in failed attempt to win Avetik Isahakian and Hovhannes Shiraz, a movement. Andranik Ozanian was born in 1865 entrance built in the early 20th century, first a Armenian independence from Soviets), wooden totem, several carved tufa pieces and a public club, then a theatre and now home to in Shopin Garahisar. Trained as a carpenter, Andranik followed his father's trade until the age

Smbat Makhluto, Sako Sevkaretsi (Sargis trial was a sensation, the court of Berlin finding gang, continues to support Armenia’s Tsovanian, 1870-1908, leader of the Armenian him innocent.), development, in particular with earthquake relief MUSEUMS resistance in the late 19th century – hero of to Giumri and Spitak. The unremarkable statue Rostom (Stepan Zorian, 1867-1919, leader of the defense of Shamshadin and Ghazakh in the square is of the chanteur himself. MUSEUM OF NATIONAL ARCHITECTURE AND the Russian rebellions of 1903-1904, rebellion during rebellion of 1905), URBAN LIFE IN GIUMRI & THE MERKUROV of 1905 and resistance during WWI, a defender GAREGIN NZHDEH SQUARE - ¶³Ñ»·ÇÝ HOUSE STUDIO, 47 Haghtanaki, Tel. 23-600, Peto Giumretsi (Alexander Petrosian), of Baku during Soviet aggression.) 21-281, 23-148, email: [email protected]. Open ÜÅ¹»ÑÇ ÑÑ³Å³Ñ³Ï every day except Monday, 10-5. Admission 1000 Garegin Nzhdeh (Ter-Harutiunian, 1886- At the intersection of Terian and Yerevanian, this KHAGHAGHUTIAN CIRCLE - Ê³Õ³ÕÁÕÃÛ³Ý AMD includes both museums. 1957, leader of Armenian resistance to Soviet is the first statue to greet you when you arrive ÛÕ³Ï domination and the ceding of Siunik/Zangezur from Yerevan by car. Nzhdeh (1886-1955) is The Museums Located in the same complex at to Turkish control in 1920-21), associated with Armenia’s freedom fighters and MAIDEN FOUNTAIN the bottom of Haghtanaki pta. are two interesting fight for independence during the tumultuous Aram Manukian (1879-1919, leader of The Circle, at the northern end of Haghtanaki museums, each of which serves as a kind of years of 1915-1921. He is first known as one of resistance to genocide in Van, minister of Bulvar where it crosses Gorki poghots, is bookend and starting point to the exploring the the men who joined Andranik during the first interior in first republic), encircled on its northern end with early 20th city. They are both small (the much larger Balkan War and he soon became a commander century buildings, including an “Arabesque” collections are mostly in storage, the buildings Nikol Duman (Ter-Hovhannissian, 1867-1919, for one of Andranik's units, fighting by his side. fantasy that locals continue to debate the merits still under repair after extensive damage during leader of resistance in Baku and Yerevan Nzhdeh led Armenian & Yezidi volunteers in battle of. The park is a favorite of pensioners, often the 1988 earthquake). during 1905 rebellion), against the Turks during WWI and, with Andranik, found sunning in warm weather. The park also repulsed both Red Army and Turkish attempts to has a WC and two cafes: Flamingo and the more The DZITOGHTSIAN HOME AND MUSEUM - Aghbiur Serob Vardanian (1864-1899, one smash through Zangezur (‘Ringing Gates’), the famous Robinson, where tables are located in of Armenia’s 19th c. Freedom Fighters, gateway to the South of Armenia. Mustafa Kamal ÒÇÃÁÕÓÛ³Ý ÎÁÕÝ-Ã³Ý·³Ñ³Ý is located in an tree houses. organized resistance to 1895 Hamid (‘Ataturk’) the leader of the reorganized Turkish historic Giumri mansion built by the Dzitoghtsian massacres, esp. in Taron district, stopping family, which immigrated into Giumri from government, wanted to claim the Armenian lands Turkish and Kurd attacks. Andranik first joined as part of a Pan Turkish empire stretching from Western Armenia in the late 1800s. Wealthy the resistance in his brigade), the Mediterranean Sea to the Afghan border. members of the most prestigious guild in Giumri, Andranik and Nzhdeh repulsed these attacks and the Dzitoghtsians lived their lives among the Gevorg Chaush (Ghazarian - d. 1907, preserved Siunik for Armenia, though they could highest echelons of society and were true member of Armenian resistance, died at battle not prevent Lenin from ceding the Armenian representatives of the Giumri Belle Époque. of Solukh), inhabited Nagorno Karabakh to the Azeris.

Kristafor Mikayelian (1854-1905, leader in Nzhdeh continued his struggle for Armenian the Armenian resistance of the 19th c., independence, even joining Andranik in fruitless credited with forging alliance between various negotiations with the Germans during World War factions of resistance, published the Feydaiyin II. Imprisoned as a counter-revolutionary, journal Droshak), in 1901 Kristafor ran Nzhdeh died in a Gulag in 1955. In 1983 a group Operation Potorig, of Armenian intellectuals spirited Nzhdeh’s essentially to remains to Armenia. Part of his remains (the extort large sums little finger of the right hand and vertebra), were of money from secretly buried on the slope of Mt. Khustup in richer Armenians Siunik, according to his wishes. The rest of the for revolutionary remains were hidden for 4 years, and in 1987 action. He died INDEPENDENCE SQUARE - ²ÝÏ³ËÁÕÃÛ³Ý buried in within the church grounds of while testing hand ÑÑ³Å³Ñ³Ï Spitakavor, which remains a place of pilgrimage grenades in a plot The square and statue are dedicated to (what for nationalists and those who remember the to assassinate the else?) Independence & Freedom of the Armenian commander.

Sultan). nation. It is located between Sayat Nova and SHUKA - ÞÁÕÏ³ Garegin Nzhdeh pts. Giumri’s Shuka is the oldest and largest in The entrance is upstairs; take the archway to Simon Zavarian Armenia. The Shuka broadly encompasses both the right of the Phaeton Alek restaurant, which is (1866-1913, CHARLES AZNAVOR SQUARE - Þ³ÉÉ sides of Shahumian & Tsulukidze Pts. south of on the lower level facing the street. Once leader of the ²½Ý³ÍÁÕÑÇ ÑÑ³Å³Ñ³Ï Freedom Square to the Bus Station and the upstairs, go to the far right door at the end of the ARF), western side of Haghtanaki Blvd. The Shuka sells courtyard to enter the museum. Admission (1000 This square, surrounded by governmental and everything from food to nuts and bolts, sellers AMD) includes both museums and permission to educational buildings, is named after French Soghoman line the streets and the market stalls in the main make photographs. singer Charles Aznavor, one of the first Western Tehlirian (1896-1960, Armenian who in 1921 Shuka building at the north end of Shahumian. Armenians to provide humanitarian aid to assassinated Talaat Pasha, one of the There are a few sellers of handcrafts, but it is The museum is divided into two sections, each on Armenia on a large scale. The popular singer, organizers of the genocide. Tehlirian’s entire more likely to find that on Rizhkov. opposite sides of the upper courtyard with family was killed during the genocide and his discovered by Edith Piaf when he was in a street

Shirak Marz: Giumri: page 13 of 23 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition collections showing the life and times of Giumri toddlers in to keep them from wandering around long room while photos of his family and friends artists represented. Nothing else like it in through time, especially its golden era in the 19th the room. line the walls of the other side. Among the items Armenia. The ground floor is also used as an century. Collections include contemporary on display is his bed, and an early map of the exhibition hall. Open every day except Monday, artwork, carpets and urban artifacts from Giumri, Across the next hall are three rooms holding Soviet Union, during the 1920s Civil War, and the 10-5. Donation. and are a great way to get acquainted with the the original furniture used by the small version of a Lenin Statue, in plaster. The city’s unique history. Dzitoghtsian family, starting with a second room, a long immaculately white gallery dining/study area, then a lavishly decked out features his extensive collection of death masks The first room displays an exhibition of living room (replete with red velvet curtains and of famous Soviet personages, models for his photographs of famous people. Among them are exquisitely hand made furniture) and finally a sculptural work. Among the persons shown are photographs of Margaret Thatcher, Ronald bedroom with a mannequin of one of the Plekhanov, Sverdlov and the grand master, Reagan and Jacques Cousteau. Dzitoghtsian’s daughters, forlornly looking out he Vladimir Lenin himself. The exhibition is a window to her beau on the street below. macabre for some, but fascinating for others, The second room displays photographs of old especially Lenin’s death mask, through which it is Giumri, a map model and 19th c maps of Old The ground floor houses the Phaeton Alek possible to see the effects of he stroke that Alexandropol, as well as the city rest, adopted in restaurant (on page 21), a taste of grand old eventually killed him. 1843. Next room has an odd display of keys on Giumri with prices to match. the wall, documents form the early period as well THE TWO SISTERS (ASLAMAZIAN SISTERS) as a very well done Diorama of the old city, In the same building on the S end is the GALLERY (MUSEUM) - ²ËÉ³Ù³½Û³Ý ÙÁÕÛÑ»ÑÇ showing the current center before it was torn MERKUROV HOUSE STUDIO - Ø»ÑÏÁÕÑÁÍÇ Å³ÏÏ»Ñ³ËÑ³Ñ, 232 Abovian p. is a real down to make way for the Soviet Square. The ÎÁÕÝ-³ÑÍ»ËÏ³ÝÁÓ, 47 Haghtanaki p., Tel. 23- treasure. The newly reconstructed museum is detailing is quite good and one only wishes they 600, 36-720, e-mail: [email protected]. classic Old Giumri: black tufa building opening up would tear down the square and rebuild this 19th to a flower-laden garden hemmed in on two sides c Armenian Agora. Backtrack to the ticket room with porches featuring lovely wooden lattice SHIRAZ HOUSE MUSEUM, 101 Shahumian, Tel. and make a left where a gallery of modern art is work. The museum features the work of Mariam 25-142, memorial museum dedicated to exhibited. and Yeranuhi Aslamazian, two artists who Hovhannes Shiraz, a 20th century writer of managed to transcend the strict constructs of classic Armenian Poetry. Born Hovhannes Onnik Across the courtyard and through the narrow Social Realism while leading independent lives Garabedian three days after the beginning of the white doors are the ethnographic exhibitions of within and without the Soviet Union. Mariam genocide, Shiraz grew up on the streets, barefoot Giumri artisans, customs and homes. The first Aslamazian died in 2006 at age 99, and is and starving. room features photographs and samples from interred at the Pantheon in Yerevan. In 1935, Shiraz published his first work, 19th-early 20th c Giumretsis, featuring "Beginning of Spring", establishing his fame. The Shushanik Khurghinian (see Other Sites novelist Adrbed named the poet "Shiraz", since below), the poet Avetik Isahakian and other "this youth's poems have the fragrance of roses, famous artists. The room also displays musical fresh and covered with dew, like the roses of instruments used by some of the gusans and folk Shiraz." singers revered in the 19th c. The next room has displays of items connected to Giumri’s In 1937 Shiraz entered the Armenian Literature festivals and celebrations, including intricately Department of Yerevan's State University, where engraved wedding invitations (with the note The three room collection forms the house he studied until 1941. Until his death on March “Please, no gifts” featured on them), a shadow museum of a Giumretsi sculpture best known for 14, 1984, Shiraz published many books, mostly puppet display and, hanging from the ceiling, creating the old statue of Lenin on Republic poetry, but also quartets, parables and decorations used during Lent or Bari Gentan, a Square in Yerevan. The statue was considered translations. He enjoyed wide recognition both I holdover from the pagan era. There is a tree one of the best representations of the father of Armenia and abroad, and is considered one of the branch wrapped with colored ribbons and Russian Communism, though before its demise greatest Armenian poets of the 20th century. His decorated with candy, walnuts and dried locals loved to show visitors how, at a certain poems relate to Ararat, Motherhood and the pomegranate, and some stick figures, dolls angle, Lenin appeared to have an erection Armenian Homeland: dressed in bright colors with a large pomegranate pointing to the then statue of Stalin on top of the A contemporary of Picasso, Gaugin and Martiros "As long as you never have a hut in the at the bottom, stuck with seven feathers. The city (torn down and replaced with Mother tradition was to take one feather out each week Sarian, Mariam’s paintings evoke the dramatic, fatherland, Armenia after Krushev’s famous diatribe against colorful themes of the times. While critics argue You are just a forgotten orphan under a foreign of Lent, for good luck. Stalin in the 1950s). the relative strengths of her paintings, her moon." exquisite ceramic plates are universally The next two rooms show a “typical” The statue has long since been carted away to The home museum is hard to understand without household in old Giumri, with furniture and proclaimed masterpieces. The museum also become a piece of kitsch art piece for a European highlights ceramics done by Yeranuhi Aslamazian. knowing his work or Armenian, still the museum appliances. Note the wooden stool with a hole restaurant, but Merkurov’s work is on display, is worth a stop for the pretty garden, eclectic carve in the center. I thought it was a 19th c This is a must-see spot, for the extraordinary beginning with artifacts from his studio, placed work on display and the bohemian lifestyle these architectural details and the enthusiastic staff. baby’s toilet, but nope, it was used to place in careful placed casualness on one side of the Open every day except Monday, 10-5. Donation.

Mandakian, who despite their being separated archeological history. The director, Hamazasp remained his muse throughout his life. Other Khachatrian and his staff can be found at rooms have displays of Ani, where the writer was excavations around the marz in the summer, and married, Isahakian’s translations (Valeri Briusov, seem to enjoy explaining their work. Museum Alexander Blok, Boris Pasternak, Mandelstein), a Closed, offices open in season at odd hours, when copy of the last poem written by Charents, they are back from excavations. dedicated to Isahakian, musical compositions composed to Isahakian’s poems and displays THE ARTS about his death, funeral and tributes by other The arts have a long history in Giumri, culture writers. never being far from any discussion. Even during the years following the earthquake when nothing KUMAIYRI HISTORIC DISTRICT, 66 Jivani, p., else seemed to work, the theatre, galleries and Tel. 23-434, consists of the entire center of the museums were among the first public buildings to city and its historic buildings, making up reopen, art deemed a right by each citizen. Alexandropol or Old Giumri. Call the office for the entire Historical District. Call up the District Director Zhorair for one of the most entertaining The museum houses a collection of original walking tours you could hope for. You need AVETIK ISAHAKIAN HOUSE MUSEUM - furnishings, belongings and clothing used by the translator, but his knowledge is unsurpassed, as ²Í»ÏÇÏ ÆË³Ñ³ÏÛ³ÝÇ ÎÁÕÝ-Ã³Ý·³Ñ³Ý, 91 Isahakian family at the time the writer lived is his wickedly funny quips about those who lived Shahumian, open 10-5 Tues-Sun, 300 AMD, is there, and is an ethnographic treasure chest. before and now in the historic district of the city. dedicated to one of Armenia’s most famous Rooms are well stocked with some extraordinary poets, known for his lyrical style and political antiques, and clothing dating back to the early MHER MKRTCHIAN MEMORIAL MUSEUM - force. The museum is actually dedicated to 19th c, (the carved mirror and chest ion the main ØÑ»Ñ ØÏÑÃÓÛ³ÝÇ ÎÁÕÝ-Ã³Ý·³Ñ³Ý, 30 Isahakian’s early life, the house shared by his living room is worth the price of admission Rustaveli, museum dedicated to the life and work father and uncle and where he spent his youth. alone), as well as Isahakian’s desk and of one of Armenia’s most beloved actors, Frunzik It is paired with his Yerevan house-museum (his handwritten notes from his office. Hanging above Mher Mkrtchian. Known for his large nose and later years) to give a full picture of an his desk is a picture of Khachatur Abovian, whom comic roles, Mkrtchian nonetheless led a tragic extraordinary figure in Armenian literature. Isahakian called “my first teacher,” along with personal life. An actor in both film and theatre, Isahakian (1875-1957) spent his formative years pictures of the writer at his mother’s home village Mkrtchian performed Shakespeare, Western and in the house, before embarking on an education and a copy of a German Bible, which Isahakian Armenian plays, but was best known for his roles and writing career in Tbilisi, at the turn of the translated. in the Russian cinema: “Mimi No”, “Aibolit 66”, century the cultural center for Armenians in the “Kavkas skaya plenitsa” and perhaps most Giumri has produced an inordinate number of Russian Empire. Isahakian was a controversial Other rooms are a bedroom with the cradle the famously, “Mer Mankutian Tango” (The Tango of artists for its size, a fact Giumretsis delight in figure, arrested twice for his convictions before a writer sued as a baby, a wonderfully preserved our childhood) with Galia Novents. Fantastically reminding anyone who will listen: Opera period of self-exile in Europe to study in Leipzig kitchen and pantry with antique utensils, and the successful and one of he most famous comedians Composer Armen Tigranian, Painter Minas and travel before and during WWI. Returning for tonir room, where the family baked lavash. The of his time, Mkrtchian was driven to drink over Avetisian, poets Avetik Isahakian & Hovhanes the October Revolution, Isahakian became a tonir room where Isahakian was born is also laid the loss of his wife’s and son’s minds and the Shiraz and actor Frunzik Mher Mkrtchian are driving force in the revival of Armenian culture in out as it would have been in his days. Isahakian death of his daughter in a car accident right after among the famous Armenian artists who called the Soviet Union, recruiting writers and artists loved to tell guests that his mother bore him her marriage. By the end of his life he refused Shirak home. Tigranian’s opera “Anush” was first from abroad and playing an active role in creating under the window in that room. It was a hard all roles and was consumed by drink. Open every performed in Giumri, in 1912, a fin de siecle the Armenian Academy of Sciences. Among his birth, and Almast Isahakian reportedly called out day except Monday, 10-5. Donation. ornament for a golden age. more famous works are "Yerker u Verker" (Songs “Avetis! Avetis!” (Good news! Good news!), and Wounds), "Abu Lala Mahari," "Im Hokin" (My which is how he got his name. The other side of SHIRAK REGIONAL MUSEUM - ÞÇÑ³ÏÇ ART GALLERIES & STUDIOS Soul), "Maiyrikis" (To My Mother), "Kishehr" the house was used by his uncle’s family, and is »ÑÏÑ³·ÇÏ³Ï³Ý Ã³Ý·³Ñ³Ý, 118 Miasnikian now a series of photo and document galleries of (Night), "Kuzes Linem" (You Want Me To Be), p., Tel. 30-134, 22-847, 22-799, fax: 33-034, STYLE ART GALLEY - Ä³Ù³Ý³Ï³ÏÇÓ Isahakian’s entire life and work. Among the “Usta Karo”, "Hayrenigits Heru" (Away From My Email: [email protected]. The Shirak Regional ³ÑÍ»ËÏÇ Ã³Ý·³Ñ³Ý, 12 Gai p., Tel. 22-011 is works on display are copies of his poem “Abu Lala Fatherland), "Tarinehr Heto" (Years Later). It is Museum is an heroic effort, continuing to operate a remarkable place in Giumri: a private art Mah’ari” (Life is Absurd), considered one of his said the Russian composer Sergei Rachmaninov in tiny quarters after its premises were destroyed gallery with no governmental support! Run by best works, written at time when the passionate was so taken with Isahakian’s 'The Little Willow,' during the 1988 earthquake. The large collection the colorful and enigmatic Artush Mkrtchyan, the young man was trying to fathom the meaning of he rushed to set it to music 'because,' he said, is housed in a number of domiks around town, gallery is a hallmark to the days when cutting life. Others include a copy of his first book, 'the melody was inherent in the verse.' the staff still hoping for allocation of space or edge art was the norm in Giumri, and it hosts “Yerker u Verker” photos of Isahakian and Perj construction of a museum to display them in. The exhibitions by artists around the world. Proshian, Komitas and members of Tumanian’s staff continues research and excavations and are Vernatun. One picture in the corner is of easily accessible to the more serious-minded On exhibit when we visited were several piece Isahakian’s first love, a 15 year old Shushanik tourist who wants to delve deeper into Shirak’s made up of blue bottles (the largest entitled

“Democracy”) and an installation piece by Sargis, Arman Tadevosian, 47 Vardan Achemyan, e- visit in itself, the façade highlighted with huge throat being cut. The bell tower domes remain which takes up an entire room with a huge mirror mail: [email protected], works from his home pictures of famous Armenian films and actors, from the 1988 earthquake, helping to save the on one end, silky blue lighting and a vaguely and private studio. “At present I apply one including Sergei Parajanov’s "The color of church structure (See Walking Tour). Kabuki-like kimono made from old Armenian method in my art, where people are correlating Pomegranate" and Armenia’s “Anna Maniani”, fabrics. Strips of film covered the corners and with the surfaces. The individual with the time he Galia Novents, appearing with Mher Mkrtchian. the kimono. Amazing stuff anywhere, let alone lived through, and the place he resided is at the Films on weekends, times announced in front of Giumri. heart of paintings.” the building. 500-1000 AMD. Popcorn just 50 AMD! Private Studios THEATRE

ADJEMIAN STATE DRAMATIC THEATRE - ²Ó»ÙÛ³ÝÇ ³ÝÍ³Ý Ä»Ï³Ï³Ý ¸Ñ³Ù³ÏÇÏ³Ï³Ý Â³ÏÑÁÝ, 4 Sayat Nova, 2-25-38, 2-13-32, is famous for being the best theatre in Armenia, producing such writers as Mkrtich Armen (Heghnar Akhpiur”), actors Artavasd Pashaiyan, Tsolak Amerikian, Levon Zorabian and Armen Armenian. The theatre continued performing

after the earthquake and despite the emigration of its best actors, continues to produce dynamic Amnaprkitch (All Savior) - ²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇã, 14 5 plays and is still considered among the best in Abovian, (under reconstruction). Constructed the country. Partly this is to do with Giumretsi’s between in 1843-1877, the cathedral is based on character and love of culture. Audiences make the 8th c. cathedral of Ani, which was destroyed known their displeasure over poor performances, in the Middle Ages and represents the obsession pushing actors to greater levels of expertise (one Giumri had with Ani during its heyday. The Alex Manukian, 28 a Trdat Tchartarapet, Apt 8, anecdote is remembered: an actor once CHURCHES church was a concert hall I Soviet times and is (tel. 3-30-32), email: announced his work was still “in progress” and being rebuilt, preserving the original details in the [email protected], works with someone in the back of the house retorted “one Giumri has some interesting churches, including a modern construction. (See Walking Tour). synthetic arts from his private studio. “In my rehearsal would have been nice”). Noted plays in few working establishments. Squirrel your way into the building site and you works I try to make syntheses of different styles. the repertory are Shakespeare’s “12th Night Diocese Office, Armenian Church, 2-37-77 may just get a tour of the reconstruction process.

It helps my mind and imagination’s free (Vartan Adjemian, lead actor), “Ara Gheghetsik & I was lucky enough to be taken by workers to the conveyance. Very often I try to analyze the Shamiram”, “Yerkir Haireni”, “Kandats Ojak”, top of the building, a stunning view of the city. reality around me with the help of synthetic art. “Kourash Mairik”, “Artavast”, “Char Vokjeh” and The need of self-expression by means of “Korata”. The theatre performs its repertory in S. GRIGOR LUSAVORITCH - ÊÁÕÑμ ¶ÑÇÙÁÑ Armenian during the winter season. Watch for reproducing art emerges every moment, every ÈÁÕË³ÍÁÑÇÃ, 62 Jivani, (closed) touring productions from Yerevan and outside second, unwillingly. One has only to see it, feel it Armenia, which occasionally perform here. and shape it in an appropriate formulation.” S. HRIPSIMEH - ÊÁÕÑμ ÐÉÇÅËÇÙ», Austrian Performances are in evenings, with weekend District, F. Werfel h'raparak. matinees. Performances are announced in front

of the theatre. 700-1000 AMD. OUR LADY OF ARMENIA CONVENT, 6 E.

Charents, Ani District, 3-43-38, ALIKIAN PUPPET THEATRE OF GIUMRI - [email protected]. The convent for Sister Arusiag ¶ÛÁÕÙÑÇÇ ²ÉÇÏÛ³ÝÇ ³ÝÍ³Ý ÎÇÏÝÇÏ³ÛÇÝ Sajonian and her orphanage. Perhaps the only Â³ÏÑÁÝ, 131 Abovian, 2-17-85, has been a part woman in Armenia government officials are really of Giumri’s landscape. Puppets run the range for afraid of, Sister Arusiag is relentless in her work traditional marionettes to more experimental to give destitute children a decent life. She has presentations, and you may be torn between worked miracles in Armenia, creating an oasis of which is more fun to watch: the show or the kids ASTVATSATSIN (YOT VERK) CATHEDRAL - security and hope in a sea of misery. Her in the audience. Performances are matinees, ²ËÏÍ³Í³ÍÇÝ /ÚÁÃÍ»ÑÙ/ »Ï»Õ»ÓÇ, Freedom summer camp in Tzakhghadzor is legendary, and weekends, and 12.00-15.00. 200-500 AMD. Square, (under reconstruction). Giumri’s working includes accommodations for tourists (the money church and bishopric See, Yot Verk is not FILM from which goes to support her work). Never remarkable but a living, breathing church, with afraid to ask for help, this Philly native leaves no weddings, baptisms and prayers ever continuing. Russian-dubbed films are shown daily at the stone unturned in her efforts to protect the Pigeons in front are for ritual sacrifice. Buy one children that cross her door. This is a Must Go to HOKTEMBER KINO THEATRE on Freedom and set it free if you can’t stand the thought of its Square, 2-32-86. The opulent building is worth a

Shirak Marz: Giumri: page 16 of 23 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition see how aid should be done, be prepared to in the old Feudal System and the Genocide SHUKA, flows down Shahumian, Tsulukidze and contribute something. The Glass Box combine in her poetry into powerful Haghtanaki pts S of Azatutian square, and is a commentaries on her times and at times, sadly, mixture of open-air food stalls (with some of the EVANGELICAL BAPTIST, 16 Romanos Melikian, Giumretsis are proud people; proud of their on the plight of modern Armenian women. The best blue cheese and lavash in the country), 4-16-51. history, their humor, their heritage, and house still stands on Pushkin Street in the East of mterks, kiosks and small bakeries, as well as he especially, of their city. They may have been Old Giumri. ubiquitous car parts, hardware and shinaniut S. Hagop Mtsbinetsi - êáõñμ Ð³Ïáμ ØÍμÝ»óÇ, on the down and outs for a decade or so, but (construction) stores. Everything is here, and P Sevak, Ani District. that hasn’t stopped them from crowing about The MODERNIST GLASS BUILDING on the everything on sale. Bargaining is hard and if you their city, their unique way of living North end of the Freedom Square is causing an have a good translator as a good (better if you (“Giumretsis may be Armenians,” one uproar of criticism and debate even as it reaches have a local Giumretsi) you can catch the fast its opening date in late 2006. A large glass and furious repartees between buyers and sellers, Giumretsi told me with a sly smile, “but we façade looking like shattered glass pieces welded spiced with some real Giumri humor (watch out, have ‘made of good quality’ stamped in our together with thick slabs of red metal, set against they can be spun your way in a flash). Great way passports.”). They are especially proud of polished jet black tufa walls, is already an icon, to spend an hour, and to buy some good cheap their historic buildings with their ‘Armenian even as locals decry its place next to the Soviet eats. Belle Époque’ design, and watch with concern Rococo Hoktemberian Cinema and the Late as new buildings are erected over the ruins of Medieval Yot Verk Cathedral. Despite their hard Handmade Carpets can be bought by the old, sometimes with modern designs luck, Giumretsis are fiercely proud of their contacting Stepan Ter Markarian (tel. 093-86-61- clashing along with the old. cultural heritage and this extends to their 18). Stepan will put you in touch with local architecture, and it seems everyone has an carpet makers. All designs, including some Open debate is often heard over cups of opinion about the reconstruction efforts in the fascinating modern carpets with ancient coffee at one of the city’s cafes (or mugs of city, from street cleaners to the new oligarchs. Armenian petroglyphs on display at Berlin Gast beer at the Polos Mukuch Tavern) about the Haus.

latest attempts to reconstruct the city, with Stone Crafts can be purchased at Berlin Gast scorn and praise heaped on several buildings Haus, or at local craftsmen studios, including one PELPELAN ZHAM RUSSIAN CHAPEL - ÄÉÅÉ³Ý going up in the heart of the city. The most of the most famous, at Samvel “Hassan” who Ä³Ù ÈÁÕË³Ï³Ý »Ï»Õ»ÓÇ, intersection of hotly debated building is the Modernist Glass carves all types of stone into all kinds of shapes. Nalbandian and Terian. The Russian Orthodox building with fire engine red frames that is Call Parvana taxi (tel. 3-02-33, 3-02-44, 4-10- chapel was built in 1879-80 and used in being erected between the Hoktemberian 44, 091-50-11-33) and tell them you want Alexandropol’s heyday as a funerary chapel. The Cinema and Yot Vert Cathedral on the north “Samvel Hassan Kari Tsegh”. church was nicknamed “Pelpelan Zham” side of Freedom Square. It will be home to an (Shimmering Chapel) due to its once gleaming electronic store (ts architect wants it to be silver roof. There used to be a Russian cemetery used as a modern art museum), but no matter next to the building, but it was replaced in the what name goes up on the marquee, the 1950’s by the Russian military by a children’s locals will be quick and decisive in giving it the play area. name it will go by the rest of its life. Most do not like the building on first look; it clashes S. N’SHAN, 117 Abovian. Built by the city, this neighborhood church was first named S. Mariam with the church, it is not Alexandropol, it is too Church, but when another, newer church in the much like Yerevan. A welcome change from Yerevan’s hideous center was named the same, the parishioners monstrosities rising in dust clouds over the ruins were forced to change theirs. They chose S. But already they are claiming the building as of historic neighborhoods, Giumretsis “own” their N’shan (Saint Sign). If doors are open, go inside her own, even with their criticism, and city with a patriotic fervor few Armenian to see the simple yet elegant design. whatever nickname they eventually give it (I communities muster (see inset) and it is not am told by the end of the grand opening unusual to be asked your opinion about particular OTHER SITES night), it will be—loved or hated—theirs, and design projects, then spend the next hour securely a Giumri landmark. defending your position. Be prepared for a In the East side of Old Giumri (opposite of debate if you offer an opinion counter to the Haghtanaki Boulevard) there a re number of questioner, and for a lively debate to ensue, PRACTICALITIES early Marxist movement until it clashed with her interesting houses, much like those in Slobodka drawing in people around you. This is community view of women’s rights. Her works were required (see Walking Tour 2). Among these is the activism at its best. Area Code: 312 readings in the Soviet Armenian school system, birthplace and early home for SHUSHANIK Long Distance: 0312 + local number pat of which explains her fall from grace and KHURGHINIAN (nee Polpochian, b. August 18, SHOPPING From abroad: +(374) 312 + local number relative obscurity, but her views on women’s 1876, d. Nov. 24, 1927), considered Armenia’s Mobile Phones: 091 Armentel, 093/094 Viva Cell first feminist writer and a avid proponent of the rights and especially her horror at their treatment

International callers: Armentel +(374) 91 + By Bus, Minivan Khorenatsi Pghts. and the Giumri aftokaiyeran. give them satisfaction, we ordered a taxi for number, Viva Cell +(374) 93 or 94 + local Buses run daily to Yerevan, Vanadzor, 1300-1500 AMD. 13,000 AMD tel. 3-04-40, 3-04-50). number Akhalkalaki, Tbilisi and Batumi. Less frequently, Unless otherwise noted, local numbers require buses run to and from Iran, Russia and Turkey. Vanadzor minivans run between the Vanadzor Vanadzor-Giumri taxis run on order, around the (0312) prefix if calling long distance, or Buses run relatively on time, though they may aftokaiyeran and the Giumri aftokaiyean. 1000- $15. +(374) 312 if calling from abroad. wait until they are filled before they leave. 1200 AMD. Georgia-Giumri taxis run on order, around $60 IN AND OUT Yerevan buses run daily between the Yerevan Akhalkalak, Tbilisi and Batumi minivans run each way to Tbilisi. Aftokaiyeran on Admiral Isahaakov p. and the between their respective bus stations and the Giumri aftokaiyeran 2 blocks south of the Giumri Giumri aftokaiyeran. Prices vary, from 2000 AMD Shuka. Several buses a day travel this route, at for Akhalkalak to 5000 AMD to Batumi. AROUND 800-1000 AMD. By Car On foot is the best way to savor the city’s unique Vanadzor buses run daily between the Vanadzor Giumri is located on the M1 highway, 120 architecture and warm hospitality. As opposed to and Giumri aftokaiyeran. Several buses a day kilometers northwest of Yerevan, 59 kilometers Yerevan, where pedestrians are a target sport, run this route at 800-1200 AMD on their way to west of Vanadzor, and 50 kilometers south of the Giumri’s drivers are polite and generally obey Akhalkalaki & Tashir. Georgian border. The highways are in good traffic laws. In the center, no two points are condition easily traveled from Yerevan within 2 more than a 15 minute walk away, with a hike up International Bus hours in a soviet vehicle, 90 minutes if you like G. Nzhdeh a hefty 20 minutes. Even the more Akhalkalak, Tashir, Tbilisi and Batumi buses run your drive nerve-wracking. Petrol stations and hardy travelers who want to hike to Mother from their respective bus stations and the Giumri rest stops/kebab stands proliferate the southern Armenia or the Black (South) Tower, will find it aftokaiyeran. Daily from 800 – 1200 AMD to end of the highway (those around Agarak an easy 30 minute stroll from Freedom Square Tbilisi, catch separate bus in Tbilisi to Batumi combine excellent cooking with stunning views of (the Turkish border is another 30 minutes, but (around $10). Mt. Ararat), and regularly beyond Talin. The closed). highway to Kars in Turkey is currently closed though discussions on opening the border Taxis are frequent and cheap, at 200 AMD + 100 Giumri-Istanbul bus runs regularly on Fridays By Plane continue ad vomitum. AMD/km, you rarely spend more than 600-800 (tel. 22-311, 40-932). Fare is $30 plus $15 for Giumri’s Airport is located 7 Km from the city AMD between destinations. Catch one on the border crossing, plus whatever the Georgian center (Taxi 1000 AMD from city center, 1000- By Taxi street or call ahead to pre-order: “LUX” (tel. 3- patrols manage to wring from your pockets along 2000 AMD from the airport). Armavia provides 04-40, 3-04-50), “MAP” (tel. 3-06-96), “SAMBA” the way. In Istanbul, the bus arrives and flights to Moscow Vnukovo and Domodedevo Yerevan-Giumri (tel. 3-00-93). Another is Parvana, which has 8 departs from the Otto Gari (Otto Gari No: 5/A Airports, several times a week. This is the From Yerevan, taxis to Giumri are located in the volgas and very polite, safe drivers. “PARVANA” Aksaray ). Istanbul tickets bought at Emniyet cheapest way between Moscow and Armenia, parking lot beside Kino Hairenik (Kino (tel. 3-02-33, 3-02-44, 4-10-44, 091-50-11-33) Kesebirler Turizm, Kucuk Langa Cad. Emniyet, with flight and taxi to Yerevan cheaper than most Rossiya) at the corner of Agatangeghos and has the best rates for exploring the regions: tel. (0212) 632-7874, (0212) 32 8461, mob: flights to Yerevan only. Note you need a Russian Movses Khorenatsi Pghts. Taxis normally charge Marmashen 1500 AMD, Jajur 2000 AMD, Amassia (0535) 716-2384, (0535) 770-8272, email: visa. O/W $150-200, R/T around $300-350. 8000 AMD for up to four passengers, though be 5000 AMD, Tsoghamark 2500 AMD, Artik 4500 [email protected]. Contact Anahit at Bazmankiun 2-22-19, (091) prepared to bargain. Our first taxi driver asked AMD, Mantash 5000 AMD, Pemzashen 5000 AMD,

21-92-23) for schedule and to book a flight. for $40 then bargained down. If your party is Voskehat 2000. Also has best price from Yerevan: The bus runs via Yerevan, Vanadzor (tel. 22-790 less than 4, you will still be charged the full fare, 12,000 AMD w/o receipt. Lusine), Kilikia Avtogayan (tel. 54-07-56) and By Train and some drivers will still try to wait for more Trabzon (tel. 0462-325-5522) The Yerevan-Giumri train (elektrichka) is the paying passengers to fill the car! Buses and Minivans are less frequent, and most economical way to arrive in Giumri (480 follow the main routes between city districts. 50 Russia, Iran, buses run on charter. Ask at a tour AMD), if it can be a squeeze with one class You can also order a taxi by phone. The going AMD for buses, 100 AMD for minivans. agency, your hotel or B&B for details. seating. Notoriously late, still be there early in rate is 12,000 AMD. Most Yerevan taxi services case it experiences one of its occasional “on time” provide this service, but we called Kalina (tel. Tour Agencies, Guides Minivans (Marshrutni Taxis) also run daily to and blips. The Yerevan-Giumri train runs every 010-555-333). Also try Parvana in Giumri (tel. 3- Bazmankiun, 6/3 Khaghaghutian Oghak (tel. from Yerevan, Akhalkalak, Tbilisi and Batumi, and day from Yerevan (08.00) and to Yerevan 02-33, 3-02-44, 4-10-44, 091-50-11-33) at 22219, 37201, mob. 091 21 92 23 / 71 46 56), is can be a more comfortable way to travel, though (21.40). The train is often delayed, but be there 12,000 AMD. an international service company specializing in they pack them in with luggage and supplies, and in case it is on time or early. The Giumri Train facilitating business, visits and translation leave only when hey have enough passengers. If Station is located on Kaiyeranamerts H’raparak From Giumri, taxis to Yerevan are at the services. It also happens to be run by some you want more room, offer to by several seats for (Railway Station Sq.), at the intersection of Gorki Aftokaiyeran (bus station). Bargaining is harder enterprising young professionals, who can book you and your stuff. There are no set schedules, and Tigran Mets p. (Tel. 21-002), and is a 15- here, and gets harder the later in the day, when flights, land travel, B&B stays and tours. Anahit minivans leave when they are full. minute walk from Freedom Square or Berlin Gast chances of finding a return passenger are more and her “cadre” seem to be able to cover just

Haus. remote. We failed to get anything close to 8000 about any need a traveler may have, with aplomb Yerevan minivans run between the Kino Rossiya AMD (the best we got was 9,000 AMD but wait and good humor. Great find for the adventure or parking lot at Agatangeghos and Movses for another paying passenger) and rather than specialist traveler. As an NGO, Bazmankiun has

Shirak Marz: Giumri: page 18 of 23 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition friends and networks throughout the area, Fire – 101 of the old city, you can’t beat Ashot or Zhora; ask casual user. The Tennis Training Center, 28a including Shirak tours, below. Police – 102 if they are free (5000-10,000 AMD). Repin p. 3-49-09 has tennis courts you can Ambulance service – 103 reserve by calling ahead. City Research Center, 12 Gai p. tel. 2-20-11 Rescue Hot Line - 118 ATM, Bank, Exchange (ask for Ashot or Armine to help), is not a tour Gas emergency service – 104 ATM or money transactions can be done at OVERNIGHT agency but they have loads of information about Trunk Line – 107 Ardshininvestbank (ATM) 7 Gai p. tel. 2-46- old Giumri and sell postcards and maps. For a Telephone directory information – 109 47, ACBA Bank, 18a Shirakatsi p. 3-78-81, After paying the extortionate prices in Yerevan, personalized tour of the old city, you can’t beat Unibank, 1 Haghtanaki, tel. 3-30-55 and your pocket book will find relief in Giumri, with Ashot or Zhora; ask if they are free (5000-10,000 Phone, telegraphs Converse Bank, 4b G. Nzhdeh Sq. tel. 4-20-95. clean, friendly hotels starting around $55 for a AMD). The Post Office is located on Independence Sq. Exchange points are scattered around the city. double, and B&B’s from only 5000 AMD. You will at the end of Sayat Nova p. Phone cards, long One of the best is near the large food Market in be forgiven for wondering why you ever stayed in Shirak Tours, 25 Haghtanaki p., (tel. 23148, distance calls (USA, Russia 150 AMD per minute) front of the Dzitoghtsonts Museum. Rates vary by Yerevan when Giumri provides so much more for 37559), is a well-regarded agency attached to and post drops can be made here. Postal a few drams. the money. the Berlin Gast Haus. Also book travel and delivery is slow and unreliable. arrange regional tours. Talk to Volodia (cell. 093- Film ** denotes recommended venue 22-10-40). Telephone Service shops are scattered around A Kodak shop is on Gai p. just off of Freedom the city, on the main streets. 150 AMD per Square. Development, Film, batteries, CD-R Shirak Competitiveness Center (SCC), 16 G. minute to USA and Russia. disks. Nzhdeh p. tel. 3-39-61 fax: 3-39-16 email: [email protected] is an NGO dedicated to the Internet Consulates development of Giumri and the Shirak region. As Several services provide dial up, computer usage Russian Federation Consulate, 5 G. Nzhdeh, such the center has created several useful and slow SMS/VOIP services. Venues and prices tel. 3-45-33, 3-72-61, fax: 3-45-42. Visas pamphlets and maps of Giumri, including a rather fluctuate rapidly, ask at your overnight for the arranged here, difficult staff, best to go through a long walking tour of the city and a video latest place. travel agency. promoting the area. A friendly place to get Arminco has offices at 5a Vazgen Sargsian & 6 information including events and changing Pharmacy Rizhkov p. (tel. 36329), emails: venues. Apothecaries (Armenian: deghatuner) can be [email protected], [email protected] found throughout the city. There is a 24 hour Tour guides include Stepan Ter Margaryan 4+1, 22 G. Nzhdeh, 3-45-49, email: Apoteka on Rizhkov p., another one block off of (093-86-61-18), a working archeologist who [email protected] Freedom Square at the corner of Gai and deftly introduces Shiraks's 5000 year history to Ghorghanian pts., others on Shahumian/Abovian Msnet Club, 59 Gorki, URL: even the most casual of tourists, including recent pts. (Giumri Shuka) and G. Nzhdeh p. finds on the way. We were lucky enough to visit www.armnet.narod.ru, email: during the excavation at the South Tower (Black [email protected] Clinic, Hospital HOTELS fort) where Stepan and his colleagues had just Hope Link, 2 Tigran Mets (tel. 35059), tickets, For a medical emergency, dial 103. Hotels run the gamut from the best in Armenia to uncovered 9th century BCE graves. basic tours. There are a number of clinics and hospitals in the rent-by-the-hour venues (your, er, um, city, your lodging will know the closest and best secretary). Women are not safe in the cheapest Almer, 4 Haghtanaki p. (tel. 22551), tickets, for tourists. Three are the Red Cross (Danish) venues, but men can find a cheap (if noisy) place basic tours. Clinic on 5th street in Ani district, the 2nd to crash. polyclinic on Khrimian Hairik p. in the Center and MAPS, MONEY, FILM, CLINICS, ETC. the Italian Polyclinic on Shirakatsi p. Rock Bottom Avstriakan Dghiak (Hambardzumik), G. Nzhdeh p. Maps, Postcards Dental 3-07-77, 5 kilometers from Center. Cheap digs, SCC, 16 Garagin Nzhdeh p. 33-916 or 33-961, In the old center on Khakhaghutiun circle there is red light hotel. Not for women. Around 5000 has printed several pamphlets helpful to the a Dental clinic named “Stomalux” and another is AMD, cheaper by the hour. visitor. Included are a fold out map, brochure, on Gorki street, “Stomadent”. walking tour and video highlighting pats of the Dvin, 2 Margaret Thatcher (Ani District), tel. 3- city and region (1000 AMD +). Sports, Exercise 00-58, 5 kilometers from Center. Red light hotel Shirak Football Stadium on Ozanian p. (below far from center. An Int’l agency accidentally Maps of Armenia and the Caucasus are also Gorki City Park) hosts sports competitions and booked a group of 7 women here, who spent 6 available at Berlin Gast Haus and the Knigi soccer matches. The Body Building nights fighting off the men-folk. Not safe. shop on Charles Aznavor Square (2000 AMD +). Federation, 1 Aram Khachatrian 2-24-08 is into SGL/DBL 5000 AMD, or rent by the hour (call girl serious development of competitive body- negotiated). Maps and Postcards of Giumri can be found at building, but they will allow access to facilities for COMMUNICATION City Research Center, 12 Gai p. tel. 2-20-11, a small donation. Aragats Sports Center, Mher Yerazank, 2 Minas Avetisian (Ani District), tel. ask for Ashot or Armine. For a personalized tour Mkrtchian, 3-10-59 also allows access for the 091-42-49-55, five kilometers from Center, used

Shirak Marz: Giumri: page 19 of 23 - TourArmenia © 2007 Rick Ney ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition for late night trysts, next to mafia style bistro. various venues around town. Apartments and Not safe. 5000 AMD private houses include breakfasts, hot water, dial up phone, and all the comforts of a Giumri home. Inexpensive-Moderate A little pricey at 5000 – 8000 AMD per person **Lchap, 8 Gharsi p. (next to pool at base of depending on the venue but Anahit is a wealth of Mother Armenia Statue), tel. 3-03-59, 500 m information and has a great personality. English. from Gorky Park and Center. New Melsida’s B&B, Sayat Nova / Tigran Mets pts. restaurant/motel (2006) built around a lovely (Center), tel. 2-13-56 (to get there go north on courtyard with flowers, roses, trees and a Sayat Nova from the old center and as you enter fountain. Clean rooms with SGL/DBL at Ankakhutian Square, turn right on Tigran Mets 10,000/15,000 AMD. Get it while it’s new! following the S side of the square, then take the

first archway just past the academy and go Parvana Restaurant/Hotel, Odanavakayan pta, straight into the alley. Melsida’s is the third tel. 4-22-99, has rooms to let as part of the metal gate on the left). The B&B is in a three- restaurant complex. Rooms are decent enough, story private house, accommodations on second and cheap enough at 10,000 for overnight. Often floor, with private balcony and entrance. The used by diners sleeping off hangover and late rooms are basic and will leave some people cold. night trysts (tell the manager you are a tourist Alhmas, 1 G. Nzhdeh p. tel. 3-94-44 (091) 42- The courtyard is sparse (there is a dog kept overnighter). DBL at 10,000. Old Center / Independence Square 73-24.s 1 kilometer from Center. Basic, clean locked up in a kennel) and could use some

rooms slightly over decorated like most hotels in flowers, but the view from the balcony is nice. 21/16 Club, 25 Gorki, tel. 3-21-16, Voskeh Blur, Monkekan Spozaigee (Children’s Armenia, on busy, dusty street. Café in same Still, this ain’t the Shangri La. Facilities on the [email protected], Part of Arax Hotel, disco / Park and RR), tel. 2-49-59 (hotel), 3-61- building. Amenities include hot water, air- ground floor, there is a half bath on the second restaurant, Armenian food, local mafia on the 23(restaurant). Small but decent hotel built conditioning, Satellite TV, direct dial phone. floor though when we checked it did not work, side - $$$ above the Children’s park and RR in a pretty SGL/DBL for $50/70, but they will bargain down the water tank unable to fill the toilet reservoir. park setting. 400 m from the gates to Gorki Park 28 Gorku Srjaran, 28 Gorki, the owners depending on how empty they are. Melsida says she will fix it for 2007, which will and Old Center. Ask for the Bird’s Nest Room renovated the front of the old City Baths into a make all the difference. 3500 AMD which (my nickname), a DBL on the third floor with Isuz, 1 G. Nzhdeh pta., tel. 3-33-69 Fax: 3-03- pleasant café/restaurant with Armenian/Russian includes breakfast. Has washing machine, can do spectacular views of the city and Turkey. Fun 69,1 kilometer from center. 12 western standard food - $$ laundry and ironing for 5000 AMD for entire load. tacky with kitsch furnishings (and oo-la-la, look rooms, 8 double and 4 suites, including a tidy at the nude cupie doll on the Deluxe room!). kitchenette, a satellite TV and a mini bar. Edera, 104 Gorki, tel. 3-88-33, dark dining rooms Satik’s B&B on Ghorghanian p. (Old Center), tel. Friendly staff, cheap rooms have no windows, SGL/DBL/TRIPLE for $60/70/120 for tête-à-têtes, Armenian food - $$$ 2-42-32. The B&B is in a traditional building and others have great views. All rooms DBL at is popular with Peace Corps volunteers, but too Flamingo Cafe, Khaghaghutian Oghak (Peace 8000/10,000/15,000. Expensive expensive at 8000 AMD. Circle) Park, tel. 2-49-74, Café food, pretty - $ Arax, 27 Gorki p. tel. 3-58-15, email: [email protected], Old Center. Overdone décor Garun, 1 Marmashen, tel. 3-77-03: Khorovatz - Moderate-Expensive in the Soviet Rococo style, rooms are surprisingly OTHER $$

basic, OK clean. Amenities include hot water, air- There are numerous possibilities in the town, **Berlin Gast Haus, 25 Haghtanaki p. tel. 3-76- conditioning, Satellite TV, direct dial phone. A most of which are found by simply walking Jrahars (Mermaid), 79 Jivani, tel. 2-17-51, Good 59, 2-31-48; fax 3-03-86, e-mail: favorite haunt of New Armenians carousing until around and asking. The accommodations vary Khorovatz - $/$$ [email protected], web: late at night. Though no one seems to be there. . from the most basic to fairly good digs if your www.berlinhotel-gyumri.am, Old Center. Still the **Kalinka, 4 Rizhkov, tel. 2-38-93, . SGL/DBL/STE at $100/150/200. luck plays out. A good basic rate for bed and best hotel in Giumri for clean rooms, friendly and [email protected], good basic Russian/Armenian breakfast is between 3500 - 5000 AMD. efficient service and price. Founded by the food in upstairs café with artwork as light shades B&B, APARTMENT German Red Cross to support their medical - $ Some of the best deals in town can be B&Bs, FOOD & DRINK services, the no-smoking hotel has comfortable, though they are pricey and cannot compete with **Kamar, 14 Gai, tel. 2-39-83, Excellent food in clean rooms with hot/cold water, air-conditioning, lodging like Voske Blur of Lchap. Located in a traditional underground Giumri bistro, internet connection, direct dial phones, satellite $ - 1000-2000 AMD private homes and apartments in the Old Center, Armenian /Russian food. Two of us had three TV, restaurant and minibar. Breakfast included. $$ - 2000-3500 AMD these run the gamut from basic but cozy to a courses with beer for less than 4000 AMD. A real Too bad they don’t expand to include an $$$ - 3500 + AMD taste of historic Giumri with wrought iron find - $ affordable, clean hostel; the hotel is a bit high balconies and rococo ceilings. Heating, hot water with SGL/DBL at 27,000/32,000. Accepts Visa ** denotes venues we liked when we ate there. Kebab, 10 meters S on Jivani p. from Gorki p. and dial up phones are standard on all venues, as CC. Look for the small sign on the building opposite is breakfast cooked to your order. After Yerevan’s exorbitant process you will find the Mterk shop at the SW corner of Gorki and

Giumri a pleasant surprise on your pocket book. Jivani, then ask as you walk. Private house cooks Anahit at Bazmankiun (Old Center), tel. 2-22-19, We rarely spent more than 2400 AMD per person up khash, kebab, khorovats, and kievski kutlet - 091-21-92-23, 091-71-46-56, email: for multi course meals, and often got by for less. $ [email protected]. Provides lodging at Thank God!

Kumaiyri, 246 Abovian, tel. 2-11-62, Mafia its own chef). We ordered 4 with the yummy “Compositions of Domed Structures in Georgia "The Ancient Civilization of Urartu: An favorite, Khorovatz - $$/$$$ Khachapuri Imertia and a few salad dishes and and Armenia” (R. Agababian, Yerevan 1950) Archeological Adventure," Boris B. stuffed ourselves silly for 2000 AMD per person. Piotrovsky (New York: Coules Co. 1969) Mersita’s Artist Café, behind the Commerce Tasty - $/$$ “The History of Armenian Architecture” (V. College on Hakobian p. Great Khash, 1000 AMD - Arutunian, Yerevan 1985) "The People of the Hills," by Charles Burney & $. David Marshall Long (London: Baylis & Son, G. Nzhdeh / Aznavor Sq. “Armenian Architectural Monuments” (V 1971) Millennium, 46a Khrimian Hairik, tel. 3-07-37, Arutunian and S. Safarian, Moscow, 1951) Wedding party venue, fun if want to watch one Di Napoli, 1/5 G. Nzhdeh, tel. 3-30-74, "The Armenians," by John M. Douglas (J. J. and can get in. - $$ Food/service good, Arm/Rus menu - $/$$ “”Architettura Armena del quarto al Winthrop Corp., 1992) diciannovesimo secolo,” P. Cuneo (Rome, Monte Carlo, 71 Gorki, tel. 2-13-86, **Kilikia, Bistro, 22 G. Nzhdeh, tel. 3-88-78, 1988) "The Armenians, Their History and Culture," by Armenian/Russian menu - $$$ Good Armenian food, great prices - $/$$ Ara Beliozian (AGBU Press, 1980) “Armenian Civil Architecture (Dwelling Houses Oasis Gorki, (Central) Park, tel. 2-15-32, family Parvana, Odanavakayan pta, tel. 4-22-99, and Public Buildings),” O. Khalpakchian "Histoire de l’Armenie," by Pardejian restaurant by the Rotunda, winter garden, Khorovatz, good food, friendly atmosphere. Lots (Moscow, 1971) Armenian food - $$ of weddings on weekends - $$-$$$ "Zoroastrianism in Armenia", by James Russell “Ereruyk Basilica,” N. Marr (Yerevan, 1968) “Armenian Khachkars” (Editions Erebuni, 1978) Phaeton Alek, 47 Haghtanaki, tel. 3-29-88, Shara, 1/5 G. Nzhdeh, tel. 3-55-63, same owners Armenian/Russian menu - $$ and food as Di Napoli - $/$$ “”Domed Cross Compositions in Armenia and the Byzantine Empire in the 5th to 7th “Armenian Medieval Churches,” Swiss Institute for Technology, Department of Architecture Centuries,” S. Mnatsakanian (Yerevan, (ETH, Zurich, 1996) 1989) “Architecture of the Soviet Armenia,” “Materials on the History of Armenian (Stroysdat, Moscow, 1986) Architecture,” T. Thoromanian (Yerevan, Vol. 1, 1948) “Russian Arkitektura Sovietskoy Armenie 20th Century,” (Sovietakan Grogh, Yerevan, “Old Armenian Architecture,” N. Tokarsky, (Yerevan, 1946) 1980) “Armenian Architecture in the 4th to 14th “The Armenians: A Colossal Bibliographic Centuries,” N. Tokarsky (Yerevan, 1961) Guide to Books Published in English,” (Armenian Reference Book, 1993) “Armenian Architecture,” A. Zarian (Yerevan, 1996) “A Brief History of Armenia,” Rev Sarkis Papajian, Mid-Cal Publishers, Fresno 1974. “A History of the Armenian People, Vol. 1,” George A Bournoutian (Mazda Publishers, "Armenia and Armenians, ” Dennis R. Papazian, The University of Michigan, Costa Mesa) Poloz Mukuch, 75 Jivani, tel. 3-45-11, Bistro Dearborn, September 8, 1987. Tavern, Pub Grub and snacks - $/$$ Ani District, Red Fort “The Armenian People, From Ancient to Modern Times, Vol. 1,” Richard Hovannisian (St. "A Very Brief History of Armenia,” Christopher Cicilia, P. Sevak: Chap eats in Ani District - $ J. Walker, Printinfo, Yerevan 2003 Ravenna, 7 Sayat Nova, tel. 3-10-04, Martin’s Press, New York) [email protected], Tea house with sweets and **Khaits Ishkhan, 1 Red Fort, tel. 3-82-59, “Armenia Traveler Encyclopedia,” K. S. sandwiches - $ Excellent farm-raised fish, can be expensive but “Armenia, A Journey Through History,” Arra Avakian (The Electric Press, Fresno) Khudaverdian, S. S. Arevshatian, V. N. Robinson, Khaghaghutian Oghak (Peace Circle) worth it - $$-$$$ Beliy, Sh. G. Khachatrian, A. V. Kakosian, E. Park, tel. 2-49-74, Outdoor café and Khorovatz, “The Heritage of Armenian Literature, Vol. 1 L. Melkonian (Armenian Soviet musicians, singers, don’t let the belly dancers Venezia, 4a P. Sevak, tel. 3-68-91, mafia From the Oral tradition to the Golden Age,” Encyclopedia, Yerevan 1990) deter you, this is a fun place where your table is hangout, Khorovatz - $$+ Agop Hacikyan, editor (Wayne State "Forests and Their Significance for up in the trees - $/$$ University Press, Detroit) Mountainous Armenia, V. Gabrielyan, A. Siro Khariskh (Love’s Anchor), Haghtanaki pta, “Byzantium The Early Centuries,” John Julius Nalbandyan, N. Darbinyan, Yerevan, 2001 tel. 4-10-40, Armenian food, OK -$$ Norwich (Knopf, New York) "Unique Geological Monuments of Armenia: **Vanatur / Vratsakan Khohanots, 1 Rizhkov, tel. RESOURCES “The Byzantine Empire, A Political History Guidebook for tourists, ” Ashot Avanessian, 3-01-92, Georgian food, khachapuri, upstairs has 1025-1204,” Michael Angold (Longman, Edward Malkhassian and Sergey private dining rooms, downstairs like Bistro. The READINGS London and New York) Nazaretyan, Armenian Foundation of food is excellent, we have been four times and it Seismic Protection Yerevan 2000, "The Armenians," Sirapie Der Nersessian (New never wavers. The jumbo size Khinkali (100 AMD “Early Christian Architecture of Armenia,” York: Praeger Publishers, 1970) ONLINE each) is the largest we have seen anywhere, Murad Hasratian (Yerevan 2000) including Georgia, and is a house specialty (with

Regional Plant Genetic Resources in the Caucasus and travelers, whom he believes will be the basis of Margaryan & the folks at the Institutes of History Central Asia www.cac- Armenia’s entry into the open world. In 2000 he and Archeology branches of the National Alexandrapol Database biodiversity.org/arm/arm_biodiversity.htm began dividing his time between Armenia and Academy for their help on pointing me to original www.alexandrapol.org/ caring for a parent in Texas, both of which he sources and exhaustive original information on “State of the Environment 2000" Armenian Studies Web Site considers the richest experiences of his life. destinations; to Tigran Nazaryan for introducing enrin.grida.no/htmls/armenia/soe2000/eng/ me to his Giumri (Leninakan), and to Assia armenianstudies.csufresno.edu/ Rafael Torossian (research, maps, and Nazaryan for sharing her home, hot cups of tea, Architecture graphics) has been collaborating with Rick on Sev Ghul insights and humor; to Boris Gasparyan for TourArmenia since 1996, providing some much www.gyumri.am/i/photos/crc/sevberd www.armenian.ch/armenia/Pages/ETHZ/ detailed info of prehistoric material; (General): to needed reality checks and commentary along the Tigran Nazarian and Christine Karapetian, for Shirak Regional Museum www.thais.it/architettura/default.htm way. In his other life Rafael designs flash their insightful comments, advice, and www.shirakmuseum.am/ sequences, ads, graphics and web sites for TWRI, Information, Guides challenging ideas; to Gagik Gurjian from the for a variety of sites and content management Gyumri.am www.gyumri.am/ Ministry for Historical Preservation, who has ArmeniaGuide.com projects. In a previous life Rafi was a field and been showing me the intricacies of Armenia’s Virtual Ani www.virtualani.freeserve.co.uk/ track athlete, setting the All Armenia record (still Maps of Armenia (to buy) cultural monuments and their influences since unbroken) for the 60 meter dash, then as Ani www.mapsworldwide.com/sec.asp?secid=29 1992, leading me to some of the mot amazing Assistant to the Minister for Sports, serving www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/196705/ places and events I have been, as well as to the (surviving) 6 ministers, before meeting Rick, ani.htm Maps of Armenia (to look) large vat of killer Voskevaz wine in his garden; when they worked together on several www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/doc404?Open to Sam Stepanian for his support; to Arminco, humanitarian aid projects managed by the Urban Institute www.urbaninstitute.am/ Form&cc=arm&rc=3 Andranik, Grisha Saghian and Vahan Yerkanian Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for for their help in creating the first CD version and History, Culture, Background Visa Information, Foreign Ministry Democracy and Development. In a world where continuing support, link ups and links to culture www.armeniaforeignministry.com/ engineers are taxi drivers, Rafi became the www.armenian.ch and more; to ArmeniaNow.com for letting me finance manager for these projects, creating the E-Visa share this with their world; and to R and L. TMB. www.armgate.org first multi-denomination accounting system for www.armeniaforeignministry.am/eVisa/ USAID projects in the Caucasus, tracking Hye Etch www.hyeetch.nareg.com.au/ NOTICE: Though intended to provide www.virtualarmenia.am currency that inflated at one time 150% per day. information about Armenia, this guide in no way Eastern Asia Minor and the Caucasus in Rafi is an Honored Coach of the Republic of News, Literature is meant to be a recommendation or guarantee of Armenia and lives in Yerevan, a proud Yerevantsi Ancient Mythologies the kind of experience you will have in your who did not leave during the dark years of 1991- rbedrosian.com/mythint.htm www.ArmeniaNow.com travels. Places and prices change—often 1995. overnight—as do services and quality. That great Armenian History www.abrilbooks.com place we found one time can completely change www.armenianhistory.info/index.htm Bella Karapetian (Editing, Translations, Russian www.stvartanbookstore.com the next, or start price-gouging once it learns it is Edition) first met Rick in 1993 when she came to Exhaustive Armenian History becoming popular. Some simply disappear. We www.littlearmenia.com the American University and worked in his office penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Gazetteer/ strive to make this guide as accurate as possible as Faculty services Manager and Special Events Places/Asia/Armenia/_Texts/KURARM/home. Armenian House Literature www.cac- at the time of writing, but often by the time of Coordinator. There she had the chance to use her html biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm printing things have changed, and we begin the remarkable patience and good humor with wide- process of updating. We do not guarantee any Armenian Highland eyed professors wanting to know where the service, price or venue listed herein, nor the type www.armenianhighland.com/ nearest shopping mall was (God give us patience ABOUT THE AUTHORS of experience you will have in your visit. Neither and a good dose of Pantalgin). She then worked Ecology Rick Ney (author) first came to Armenia in 1992 the authors nor the publishers assume at the World Food Program in Armenia as to work at the American University of Armenia. responsibility for the services provided by any Geophone Voice of the Earth administrator and Program Officer. In her In 1993 he began his work in humanitarian aid business listed in this guide; for any errors or www.geophone.nm.ru/ previous life Bella worked with International and development for USAID-funded projects at omissions; or any loss, damage, or disruptions in architects at ArmStateDesign Institute as an the Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for your travel for any reason. No fee, service, or Biodiversity of Armenia www.nature- information program assistant and translator. She Democracy and Development, the latter as discount of any kind was received by any ic.am/biodiv/index%20eng.html is currently Executive Director of the NGO Historic Caucasus Region Director. This morphed into business listed here for inclusion or Armenian Houses. History and architecture are Masis.am Mountains writing about Armenia for various publications, recommendation. Advertisements included in her true loves and she has traveled to China, www.masis.am/mounts/?lang=eng which became the first English language complete TourArmenia guides pay for inclusion, the income Thailand, Malaysia, Italy, Germany, and Lebanon guide to Armenia in 1996 (online) and 1998 (CD- used to defray cost of publishing. Their inclusion Masis.am Flora www.masis.am/ and throughout the former Soviet Union. Bella ROM). It has since become an online resource, is in no way meant to be a recommendation by tops this off by maintaining her membership in PGRCAC www.cac- visited by more than 24 million unique visitors TourArmenia or its authors, and do not the World Esperanto Association. Saluton! biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm (www.TACentral.com and necessarily represent the views of the authors on

www.TourArmenia.info). Rick is passionate about their services. TourArmenia is written by an Birds of Armenia Project www.cac- Thanks to: (Region): Ashot Mirzoian, Armine Armenia’s deep history, amazing ecology, and opinionated author with distinct views about the biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm and the City Research Center; to Stepan Ter- making the country accessible for independent country and traveling in Armenia. The views

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