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OUR READERS Stefaniuk, Farid Subhanverdiyev, Valeria Many thanks to the travellers who used Superno Falco, Laurel Sutherland, Andreas the last edition and wrote to us with Sveen Bjørnstad, Trevor Sze, Ann Tulloh, helpful hints, useful advice and interest- Gerbert Van Loenen, Martin Van Der Brugge, ing anecdotes: Robert Van Voorden, Wouter Van Vliet, Michael Weilguni, Arlo Werkhoven, Barbara Grzegorz, Julian, Wojciech, Ashley Adrian, Yoshida, Ian Young, Anne Zouridakis. Asli Akarsakarya, Simone Appert, Alik Arzoumanian, Marc Bokma, Ido Brickner, Yuliono Budianto, Silvio Calvi, Linda Camp- AUTHOR THANKS bell, Erik Carapetian, Francisco Chong Luna, Sonny Colin, Roslyn Coltheart, Greg Corn- John Noble well, Marco Crisafulli, Andrew Cullen, Paddy Special thanks to Sofo Ghoghoberidze, Davison, Michiel De Graaff, Evan Decorte, everybody at Dodo’s, William Dunbar, Tuta C Denton Brown, Janine Downes, Randell Balavadze, Hans Gutbrod, Tim Blauvelt, Roza Drum, Michael Falvella, Andreas Fertin, Shukvani and family, Regina Jegorova, Giorgi Richard Frank, Damien Galanaud, Kees Gardava, Roma Tordia, Besik Basaria, David Geselschap, John Gilchrist, Steve Goldberg, Luashvili, Jason Thake, Felix Tomlinson, Miri Irena Grzegorczyk, Xavier Guezou, Rainer and Itamar Shinin, Svea and Joerk, Funky Hamet, Graham Hamilton, Judith Harrison, Henning, Christian Portelatine, Anthony Jim Holroyd, Henry Howard, Mabon John, Schierman, Eka Chvritidze, Dan Bingham- Benzi Kahana, Patricia Knox, Dvir Koenig- Pankratz, Kate Ortenzi; Natalia Bakhtadze, stein, Jorg Lauberbach, Maxime Leloup, Ed Tamuna Giorgadze, Nutsa Totadze (GNTA); Lunken, Petter Magnusson, Marcel Medek, Information Centres all around Georgia; Alan Alex Miller, Andy Mitchell, Giorgio Mori, Ilka Saff ery, Nutsa Abramishvili (EPI); and, above Morse, Alejandra Navarro Rueda, Emily Nel- all, supercolleagues Danielle Systermans and son, Greg O’Hern, Kimberly Palmer, Esther Michael Kohn. Parigger, Mario Pavesi, Wladimiro Perez Ortigosa, Niklas Petersen, Vieri Riccardo Michael Kohn Salvadori, Steve Rigden, Taguhi Sahakyan, In Armenia, thanks to Gevorg Babayan, Gohar Tony Schneider, Ben Schottland, Barbara Mirzoyan, Nick Wagner, Taguhi Sahakyan, Schumacher, Christopher Sexton, Betty Gor Aleksanyan, Lennart Lehmann, Nyree Smallwood, Silvia Spies, Lene Steen, Victoria Abrahamian, Syuzanna Azoyan and the staff Georgia Georgia Naomi ess, ess, Helen Christinis, Helen Christinis, Parker to Thanks Odijk, Alison Ridgway, Sophie Sophie Ridgway, Alison Odijk, Splatt Cartographers Assisting Toro, di Xavier Julie Dodkins, Nguyen Jacquie Leversha, James Research Cover Research Image Internal Vauconsant Aude Content Language Vladisavljevic Branislava Ryan Evans, William Gourlay, Gourlay, William Evans, Ryan Yvonne James, Kate Hall, Imogen Rawl- Kirsten Paton, Trent Kirk, Gerard Nelly Rukhadze, ings, Walker Hydrology and EarthSystem ograph: Ananuri ograph: fortr 11, 1633–44. 11,

cation’, cation’, fi Imogen Imogen Janet Janet (p84), W Korall, Imagebroker. Korall, W (p84), in this guide are the images of Many Planet Lonely from licensing for available www.lonelyplanetimages.com. Images: Sandy, Ilqar, Martin, Andrei and friends, and friends, Andrei Martin, Ilqar, Sandy, Kha- and Mevlud Samid, Zahid, John, Sander, families, and Ismailov the Haciyev led in Laza, years. 15 memorable for Elliott Mark and to ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Fin- MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updated (2007), TA McMahon & BL layson Climate Köppen-Geiger the Map of World Classi Sciences, phot Cover Susan Susan Chris Girdler Alex Alex Leung Kerrianne Southway Kerrianne rey, rey, ff Jackey Coyle, Tasmin Waby Tasmin Coyle, Jackey Managing Cartographers Cartographers Managing Amanda Sierp Persoglia, Adrian Layout Managing Designer Editors Assisting Evans, Kate Bain, Carolyn Austin, Kristin Jones, Andi Harding, Paul Coordinating Editors Coordinating Carto- Coordinating grapher De- Layout Coordinating signer Editors Managing Editor Senior

Tinson Angela Bannister, Paterson . Cheers to fellow travellers travellers fellow to Cheers . guidebook was guidebook was Georgia, Armenia & & Armenia Georgia,

Armenia Now Katie O’Connell, Glenn van der Glenn van O’Connell, Katie Knijff Commissioning Editors Editors Commissioning

THIS BOOK Lonely This 4th edition of Planet’s Azerbaijan John by and written researched and Danielle Michael Kohn Noble, edition The previous Systermans. Michael John, by written also was This guidebook was and Danielle. Planet’s in Lonely commissioned by and produced office, London the following: Taleh, Zaur, Fiona, Tanya in Ivanovka, Mark, Mark, in Ivanovka, Tanya Fiona, Zaur, Taleh, Humbat in Ganja, and Kelly Dustin Rebecca, Rustam, Aliheydar, BMW, and his $100,000 and Larissa Amanevi, and friends in Askar Danielle Systermans Danielle Saadat, Ian, to thanks many many, Many, Je Mason, and Micah Vasif, Narmin, at Gibbs Steve Cheng, Edward Laue, Franziska gang Armenia’s Khachatourian. and Chris special deserves volunteers Corps Peace of their respective me in guiding for recognition (Yeghegnadzor), Beckey in particular: cities, Mary (Sevan), Hayley (Stepanavan), Greg and (Goris) Patrick Lizzie (Kapan), (Dsegh), and Baigal to always as My love (Goris). Zoe Molly.

318 BEHIND THE SCENES NOTES 319 320 Stepanakert 270 art galleries, see museums Tbilisi Ferris wheel 38 Art-Gene Festival 17, 41 Ananuri 84 arts Anhogin, David 165-6 Armenia 190-1 animals 290 Azerbaijan 262-3 archaeological sites Georgia 112-14 Armaztsikhe-Bagineti 56 Artsruni, Vahan 191 Erebuni Fortress 134 Aşәbi Keyf 258 İmamzadә 255-6 Ashot I 188 Naxçivan City 255 Ashotsk 170-1 Nokalakevi 67 Ashtarak 149-50 Old Gabala 237 Astara 254 A Tigranakert 275-6 Ateşgah Mәbәdi 224-5 Abanotubani 33, 41 Uplistsikhe 59 atheism 288 Abashidze, Aslan 72 Vani 64-5 ATMs 12 Abkhazia 68-74, 109, 111, 280, 285 architecture 14, 291-2 Atsunta Pass 90 Abşeron Peninsula 224-7, 226 Areni 173-4 Avlabari 34-5 accommodation 294-5, see also Argishti I 124, 134, 145 Ayas Nautical Research Club 154 individual locations Arkhoti 88 Azerbaijan 23, 198-268, 200-1 apartment rentals 135 Armash Fish Ponds 152 accommodation 198, 264, 266 online bookings 295 Armenia 23, 121-97, 123 activities 266 Achara, see Adjara accommodation 121, 193 airlines 304-5 activities 14, 16-19, see also individual activities 193-4 architecture 292 activities airlines 302 arts 262-3 Armenia 193-4 architecture 291-2 Baku (Bakı) 202-24, 203, 204, Azerbaijan 266 arts 190-1 208-9, 10 Georgia 116 business hours 194 border areas 259 Adishi 81 cinema 190, 280 business hours 266 Adjara 72-9 climate 121, 295 central Azerbaijan 248-50 Agarak 186 costs 122 cinema 280 Agdam 275 culture 187-8, 280-1, 287-8 climate 198, 295 Aghitu 180 customs regulations 194 costs 199 Aghmashenebeli, Davit, see David dangers 194 culture 280-1, 287-8 the Builder drinks 192 drinks 263-4 Ağrı Dağ, see Mt Ararat economy 280-1 economy 260, 280-1 agriculture 289 environment 289-90 environment 289-90 air travel exchange rates 122 exchange rates 199 to/from the region 300-1, 302, food 121, 192 food 242, 263, 264 304 highlights 123 highlights 200-1 within the region 305 history 188-90, 282-6 history 260-1, 282-6 Ajara, see Adjara internet resources 122 language 312-13 Ajaria, see Adjara language 311-12 menu decoder 265 Akhali Shuamta 97 menu decoder 195 money 267 Akhaltsikhe 106-7 money 122, 196 Naxçivan 254-9 Akhtala 169 names 187 northern Azerbaijan 228-33, 229 Alaverdi 168 northern Armenia 152-73, 152-3 northwestern Azerbaijan 233-48, Alexandropol 170 planning information 121-2 229 altitude sickness 309 politics 187-8, 280-1 planning information 198-9 Amberd 150 population 280 politics 260, 280-1 amusement parks postal services 196 population 280 Batumi Ferris wheel 72 religion 281 public holidays 267 Borjomi Mineral Water Park 102 southern Armenia 173-86 religion 281 Haghtanak Park 132 telephone services 197 southern Azerbaijan 250-4, 251 Qabaland 237 travel seasons 121 telephone services 267 travel to/from 122 travel seasons 198 travel within 305-7 travel to/from 199 000 Map pages visas 122 travel within 305-7 000 Photo pages Yerevan 9, 124-45, 126-7, 130-1, 9 visas 199, 268 INDEX A-D 321 9 , 2-3 282 see also also see 11 embassies monasteries & monasteries mountaineering safety see brandy see see see see 129, 155 129, convents individual regions individual Armenia 191 112 Georgia 18-19 High Fest 48 Theatre Rustaveli charts 295 charts Jvari Church 55-6 Church Jvari 149-50 churches Gorge Kasagh 174 Noravank 56 Church Samtavro 148-9 Church Surp Gayane Cathedral Lusavorich Surp Grigor 291 149, Surp Hripsime 129 Church Surp Sargis 149 Church Surp Shogahat 54-5 Cathedral Svetitskhoveli 34 Cathedral Sameba Tsminda 88, Church Sameba Tsminda 276, Church Vankasar 127 Church Zoravar 291 147, Cathedral Zvartnots Armenia 190 262 Azerbaijan 113-14 Georgia D Dartlo 92 Dartlo 189 Dashnaks 296 religious dates, 89 Pass Datvisjvari 283 95, the Builder 64, David Bek 185 Davit 100-1, 10, Gareja Davit dance 3 dance dangers, 12 saving daylight 292 35, Michele 33, Lucchi, De 167-9 Canyon Debed Dilijan 157-8 with 298 travellers disabilities, 294 discounts 191 drama cognac, cognac, 152-3 conservation consulates, climbing, climbing, convents, 234 coppersmithing 285-6 281, 188, 111, 109, corruption 13 codes country 259 Culfa 287-8 280-1, culture 266 regulations customs 305 cycling cinema 280 228 Qala Çirax 295, 16-19, 12, climate see also also see monasteries monasteries cycling see individual individual see see also also see churches & churches see see 128-9 Shuamta 97 Shuamta cathedrals cathedrals locations literature 104-5 & convents 96-7 288 Yerevan Brandy Company Company Brandy Yerevan Uplistsikhe 59-60 Uplistsikhe 107 Qvabebi Vanis 107-8 Vardzia Armenia 197 267 Azerbaijan 119 49, Georgia 273 Nagorno-Karabakh 309 health 296 holy dates & Dzveli Akhali Shuamta 95 Cathedral Alaverdi 244 Albanian 33 Anchiskhati Basilica Sioni 60 Ateni 60 Cathedral Bagrati 71 Zealot Simon the of Church 148 Echmiadzin C Car 247 306 303, 13, travel car cathedrals, bicycle travel, travel, bicycle 290 birds 290 116, bird-watching 113 poets Blue Horn 285, 284, 283, 281, books cave cities 292, 292, cities cave Byurakan 150-1 Byurakan border areas 259 areas border 305 303, crossings border Borjomi 102-4 National Park Borjomi-Kharagauli 288 263, 192, 15, brandy pipeline 260 BTC 199 122, 27, 12, budget Buduq 231 44 jumping 41, bungee 305-6 301-3, bus & minibus travel hours, business Cavid, Hüseyn 256 Hüseyn Cavid, 176 caving 298 13, phones cell 112 Irakli Charkviani, Ilia 113 Chavchavadze, Alexander Prince Chavchavadze, 92 Chesho with 295 travel children, 283, 277, 260-1, 188-9, Christianity & cathedrals churches , 204 , 212 203 228 226 ğ ttar 262 ttar 10 ә , 74 ) 202-24, ) 202-24, 10 , S ı

ә , 204 225 ran 251 ran ә n 247-8 eron 227, 227, eron ә ş nk 218, 218, barmaq Da barmaq ixov 227 ixov ә 208-9 hlulzad ş Abanotubani 33, 41 33, Abanotubani 150 Amberd 273 Iranian Quba 230 Hamami 207 Bay Taza 145 Roman Ab Nabran 233 Nabran 155 Noratus 153 Sevan Ş Adjara 72-3 72-3 Adjara 254Astara 71 Gagra Gonio 78 L Old City 10, 204-6, 211, 213, 215-16, 215-16, 213, 211, 204-6, Old City 10, shopping 220-1 204-10 sights 221-3 to/from travel within 223-4 travel 212, tours walking accommodation 211, 213-14 211, accommodation 295 climate 221 dangers drinking 218-19 219-20 entertainment 210-11 & events festivals 214-18 food history 202 221 access internet 221 services medical metro ә B ballooning 41 ballooning 113 Nikoloz Baratashvili, 196 bargaining 89 Barisakho bathhouses 298 13, bathrooms Batumi 72-8, beaches 78 beaches Baku Commissars 165 Baku Commissars Bakuriani 105-6 Balak Babluani, Gela 114 Gela Babluani, III 109 Bagrat 185 Axel Bakounts, Baku (Bak Azerbaijan Democratic Republic 261 Republic Democratic Azerbaijan 275 cave Azokh Berd 162 Berd Be Becho 83-4 263 beer 115, B 322 drinks 15, see also brandy, wine film, see cinema history 109-12, 282-6 Armenia 192 Fizuli (Varanda) 275 Kakheti 92-100 Azerbaijan 263-4 food 15, see also individual locations language 313-14 chacha 99 Armenia 121, 192, 15 media 118 beer 115, 263 Azerbaijan 242, 263, 264 menu decoder 117 Georgia 115 Georgia 114-15 money 118 oghee 161 khachapuri 45 planning information 26-7 Dsegh 167-8 menu decoders 117, 195, 265 politics 108-9, 280-1 INDEX Duman, Nikol 276 piti 242 population 280 Dumbadze, Nodar 113 fortresses religion 281 DVDs 294 Amberd 150 Samtskhe-Javakheti 101-9, D-H Dzveli Shuamta 97 Ananuri 84 103 Boloraberd 175 street names 34 E Erebuni Fortress & Museum 134 Tbilisi 30-54, 30-1, 36-7, 6-7 travel seasons 26 Echmiadzin 148 Gonio-Apsarus Fortress 78 ecology 289-90 Gori Fortress 58 travel to/from 27 economy 280-1 Gremi 96 travel within 305-7 Әfәndiyev, Elçin 262 Lori Berd 165-6 visas 27, 119-20 Egoyan, Atom 190 Nariqala Fortress 34 western Georgia 60-8, 61 Eldarov, Omar 262-3 Nukha Fortress 238 Georgian Military Hwy 84-9 Әliyev, Heydar 260, 261, 281, 286 Shah Bulart 275-6 Ghshlagh 276 Әliyev, İlham 281, 286 Tmogvi Castle 107 Giorgi III 107, 108 electricity 294, 295 Fountains Sq 206 Giorgi the Brilliant 110 embassies 295-6 Füzuli, Mehmed bin Suleyman 262 glaciers Armenia 194 Chalaadi 81 Azerbaijan 267 G Gergeti 87 Svaneti 83 Georgia 116-18 Gabala International Music Festival 18 emergencies 13, 113, 141, 199 glasnost 190, 285 Gagra 71-2 in Armenian 312 Golden Fleece 65 Gamsakhurdia, Konstantin 113 in Azeri 313 Gonio 78 Gamsakhurdia, Zviad 32, 111, 285 in Georgian 314 Gorbachev, Mikhail 285 Garni Temple 145 in Russian 311 Gori 57-9 Gavar 155-6 entry points 303 Goris 180-3, 182 gay travellers 296 environmental issues 289-90, 300 Goshavank 160 Geghard Monastery 8, 145-6, 8 Erekle II 284 Göy Göl Town 250 Gәncә 248-50, 249 ethnographic museums grape harvest 96 Gәncәvi, Nizami 248, 262 Ethnographic Museum Complex Great Caucasus 79-92 225 geography 289 Gudauri 84 Ijevan Local Lore Museum 161-2 geology 289 Gül, Abdullah 187 Museum of History & Georgia 22, 26-120, 28-9 Gyumri 169-73, 171 Ethnography 80 Abkhazia 68-74, 109, 111, 280, 285 Open-Air Museum of accommodation 26, 115-16 Ethnography 39 Adjara 72-9 H Ushguli 83 airlines 301 Hacı Cәfәr 292 etiquette 280-1 architecture 291-2 Hadid, Zaha 292 events, see festivals & events arts 112-14 Hadrut 275 export permits 220 Haghartsin 159-60 cinema 280 Harichavank 173 climate 26, 295 health 308-9 F costs 27 Fellini, Federico 113 Heydar Әliyev Cultural Centre 292 culture 280-1, 287-8 festivals & events 16-19, 296, see also Heyerdahl, Thor 244 dialling codes 119 individual locations High Fest 18-19 drinks 114-15 Gabala International Music hiking 290, see also walking economy 280-1 Festival 18 Azerbaijan 231, 232, 239 environment 289-90 Kakheti Grape Harvest 18 Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park exchange rates 27 104-5 food 26, 114-15 Juta 87-8 000 Map pages Great Caucasus 79-92 Nagorno-Karabakh 273 000 Photo pages highlights 28-9 northern Armenia 157, 159, 162 INDEX H-M 323 8 bus & minibus see 11 n 225-6, 227 n 225-6, Xatun 255, 292 255, Xatun ә 233 ә k ә ә z ә travel r rd Borjomi 102 Borjomi 102 67 Samegrelo Akhtala Monastery 169 Monastery Akhtala Armenian 11 185 Bgheno-Noravank 100 Bodbe Convent 276 Dadivank Gareja, Davit Armenia 197 267 Azerbaijan 119 Georgia 273 Nagorno-Karabakh Armenia 195 265 Azerbaijan 117 Georgia ә ә Gandzasar 276 Gandzasar 145-6, 8, Monastery Geghard Gelati 64-5 161 Goshavank 159-60 Haghartsin 169 Monastery Haghpat 173 Harichavank 155 Hayravank 166 Hnevank 148 Echmiadzin of Holy See 149 Hovhannavank 95 Monastery Ikalto 156 Monastery Kecharis 151 Monastery Virap Khor 167 Convent Kobayr 100-1 Lavra Marmashen 173 67 Martvili Monastery 63-4 Motsameta 96 Monastery Nekresi 174 Noravank 71 Monastery Afon Novy 149-50 Saghmosavank 168-9 Monastery Sanahin Sapara Monastery 108 153 Sevanavank Shamshadin 162 monasteries & convents monasteries Mestia 79-81 Mestia Anastas & Artyom 169 Mikoyan, springs mineral minibus travel, Mirzaani 100 Mirzaani 298 13, mobile phones 157 villages Molokan Mömin M measurements 294 measurements 308-9 services medical Meghri 186 275 Monte Melkonian, menu decoders M bus & minibus see 90 252 bi 238 ә l 62 ә travel, travel, 250-1 ı ran 251-3, 251-3, ran ә c 234-6 ı travel 244 nk kit 244 Armenian 125 262 Azeri 113 Georgian 125 Matenadaran 206 Museum Literature Nizami Armenia 194 118 Georgia Armenian 195, 311-12 Armenian 195, 312-13 265, Azeri 313-14 117, Georgian 310-11 Russian ş ә ә M L Lenin, Vladimir 35, 57, 134, 189, 255 189, 134, 57, Vladimir 35, Lenin, L Khevsureti 89-90, 89-90, Khevsureti Lerik 253-4 Lerik 296 travellers lesbian literature 306 transport local 254 longevity 165 Berd Lori 206 Tower Maiden’s 297 maps Marmashen 173 marshrutka 275 Martuni 156, Masall Lagodekhi Protected Areas 101 Areas Protected Lagodekhi Lah 125 Matenadaran 275 (Askeran) Mayraberd Khachaturian, Aram Aram 190 Khachaturian, 202 Shirvanshah I, Khalilullah Ç Khan Haci 183 Khndzoresk 151 Monastery Virap Khor III 107 King Giorgi Ki 129 125-7, Yervand Kochar, 190 Robert Kocharian, 66 National Park Kolkheti 190 189, Komitas 89 Korsha 81 Lakes Koruldi 292 Kumayri 60-3, Kutaisi 78 Kvariati Lake Ritsa 71 152-3 Sevan Lake 15 landscape 310-16 languages 232-3 231, Laza 297 matters legal L ki) 239, 292 ki) 239, 9 Şә see also individual individual also see 233-4 ı 258, 258-9 258, ll ğ ı xana 233 xana 280, 285 280, locations ә l car 303 car 308 health 297 advice travel government 308 health 296 holy dates Oreti Lake 91 Lake Oreti Armenia southern 184 Armenia 196 267 Azerbaijan 118-19 Georgia ә lisu 244-5 smay landa K J I itineraries 20-1, 27, 122, 199 122, 27, 20-1, itineraries 236 Ivanovka Ketevan, Queen 96 Queen Ketevan, İ 309 & stings bites insect 296 insurance 296 access internet 122 13, resources internet 81 Iprari 288 283-4, 277, Islam 260, İ Kazbegi, Alexander 85, 113 85, Alexander Kazbegi, 276 Kelbajar K Karavansaray ( Karavansaray 276 Karvachar 84-6, Kazbegi 8, Kakheti 92-100 18 Harvest Kakheti Grape Gia 112 Kancheli, 185-6 Kapan 179, 134, 132, 17, War Karabakh James Bond Oil Field 227 James 65 Thessaly of Prince Jason, Mikheil 113 Javakhishvili, Jermuk 178-9 87-8 Juta 291 55, Church Jvari 84 Pass Jvari Ijevan 160-1 Ijevan Arsen 95 Ikaltoeli, İ history 282-6, 282-6, history 306 hitching Adolf 261 Hitler, holidays 296 holy days riding 14 horse 309 hypothermia 324 monasteries & convents continued Niko Pirosmanashvili State Oshakan 150 Surp Grigor Bardzrakash Museum 100 outdoor cafes 139 Monastery 167 Nikol Duman Memorial Tatev Monastery 184, 11 Museum 276 P Tegher Monastery 150 Nizami Literature Museum 206 palaces Tsitsernavank Monastery 277 Nobel Technological Museum 73 Palace of the Shirvanshahs 206 money 12, 297 NPAK 129 Xan Sarayi 238, 255 Mongols 110 Sergei Paradjanov Museum 129

INDEX Paliashvili, Zakaria 112 monkey colony 70 Sighnaghi Museum 97 Paradjanov, Sergei 113, 129, 190, 284 Morchiladze, Aka 113 Stalin Museum 57-8 paragliding 41 mosques State Art Museum 207

M-R perestroika 261, 285 Batumi 73 State Museum of Armenian Peter the Great 284 Bibi Heybәt Mosque 227 History 128 phone services, see telephone Blue Mosque 129 State Museum of Wood-Carving 129 services Cümә Mәscid 230 Stepantsminda History Museum 85 photography 297-8 Cümә Mosque 292 Tsitsernakaberd (Armenian Pipoyan, Lilit 191 Qәbәlә 292 Genocide Memorial & Pirosmani 97, 100 motorcycle travel 303 Museum) 133-4 Pirosmani, Niko 113 mountaineering 290 Uzunömürlülәr Muzeyi 253 Pirqulu 233 Azerbaijan 235 Yerevan Museum 129 planning 12-13, see also individual Mt Kazbek 89 Yervand Kochar Museum 125-7 regions Mt Aragats 151 music calendar of events 16-19 Mt Ararat 259, 289 Armenian 190-1 Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan’s Mt Babadağ 235 Azeri 262 regions 22-3 Mt Chaukhi 87 Georgian 112 itineraries 20-1, 27, 122, 199 Mt Kazbek 89 muğam 262 travel seasons 12 Mt Mtatsminda 38 rabiz 191 politics 280-1 Mt Ushba 81 Mustafazadeh, Aziza 262 Armenia 187-8 Mtirala National Park 78-9 Mustafazadeh, Vaqif 262 Azerbaijan 260 Mtskheta 54-7, 56 Mütәllibov, Ayaz 261 Georgia 108-9 muğam 262 Poti 65-6 Mughni 149 Mutso 90 Prometheus cave 64 museums 35, see also ethnographic museums Pshavela, Vazha 113 N public holidays, see holidays Artsakh State Museum 270 Nabran 233 puppet theatre 48, 207 Cafesjian Museum 124 Nagorno-Karabakh 23, 269-78, 270 Putin, Vladimir 112 Carpet Museum 207 conflict 260, 261, 274, 275, 277, Erebuni Fortress & Museum 134 280, 285 Historical Museum 207 Nardaran 226 Q Hovhannes Tumanyan Museum 127 Nariqala Fortress 34 Qala 225 Ivane Javakhishvili Samtskhe- national parks & reserves 64, 66, Qarabağlar 259 Javakheti History Museum 106-7 104-5, 228, 290 Qax 244 Kutaisi Historical Museum 61 Naxçivan 254-9 Qazimov, Alim 262 Martiros Sarian Museum 125 Naxçivan City 255-8, 256 Qәbәlә 236-7 Matenadaran 125 Nәrimanov, Nәriman 261 Qızılqaya 232 MIM 207-10 Noah’s Ark 258, 282 Qobustan 227-8 Museum of Fallen Soldiers 270 Noratus 155 Qriz 231 Museum of Georgia 35 Noravank 174 Quba 9, 230-1 Museum of History & Ethnography 80 Nova, Sayat 190, 284 Qum 244 Museum of Modern Art 129 Novy Afon 71 Museum of Russian Art 125 R National Art Gallery 128 O rabiz 191 National Folk Art Museum of Odzun 168 rafting 41, 290 Armenia 125 Oğuz 237-8 religion 288, see also Christianity, National Gallery 35 Ohanavan 149 Islam Old Gabala 237 Romanov, Duke Mikhail 102 Rose Revolution 32, 111, 286 000 Map pages opening hours, see business hours under individual locations Roshka 89 000 Photo pages Ordubad 259 Russo-Turkish War 284-5 INDEX R-V 325 , 40 282 164 travel agencies travel 90 hiking, walking hiking, see 9 , see also see 212 Socialist Republic 285 Republic Socialist 2-3 Armenia 196 118 Georgia archaeological 142, 150 142, archaeological 142 50, bird-watching 232 quad bike 212, 172, 134-5, 40, walking Armenia 197 Armenia 268 Azerbaijan 119 Georgia 272 Nagorno-Karabakh wine 98, 99, 236 99, wine 98, 172 Armenia 142, 100 91, 50, Georgia U V Vani 64-5 Vani 276 Vank 276, Church Vankasar 156 Vardenis TV 101 Udabno 180 Ughtasar 298 278, ordnance unexploded 59-60 Uplistsikhe 287 kingdom Urartu 14 centres urban 82-3 Ushguli 308 vaccinations 206 Vahid 46 38-9, Vake 163-5, Vanadzor Tsunda 107 Tsunda 167 127, Hovhannes Tumanyan, 113 Davit Turashvili, 282 280, 187, Turkey 90-2, Tusheti Timur (Tamerlane) 110 (Tamerlane) Timur 97 Queen Tinatin, 298 13, toilets information tourist tours, Truso Valley 88-9 Valley Truso 156-7 Tsaghkadzor Akaki 113 Tsereteli, 96-7 Tsinandali 88, Church Sameba Tsminda train travel 306-7 travel train Federated Soviet Transcaucasian agencies travel 301-5 13, the region to/from travel 305-7 13, within the region travel 309 diarrhoea traveller’s 188 III 151, Trdat trekking, 6-7 , 11 7 , 40 36-7 , 80 175 30-1 224-5 ı uz 238 lan 225-6 ğ ә 283-4 Armenia 197 267-8 Azerbaijan 119 Georgia 191 Armenia 139, 219 Azerbaijan 114 48, Georgia 18-19 High Fest Akhaltsikhe 106 106 Akhaltsikhe Quba 230 O Tbilisi 33 accommodation 42-4 accommodation 41 activities 295 climate drinking 47 47-8 entertainment 41-2 & events festivals 44-6 food 31-2 history 49 access internet 49 services medical shopping 48-9 32-9 sights 49-50 offices tourist 50 agencies travel 50-3 to/from travel within 53-4 travel 40, tours walking üv T Svaneti 6, 79-83, 79-83, 6, Svaneti Tbilisoba 19, 41 19, Tbilisoba 15 teahouses 189 Soghomian Tehlirian, 298 services telephone Abuladze 114-15 Tengiz 113 movement Tergdaleulebi 190 Levon Ter-Petrossian, theatre 275-6 Tigranakert, 283 Tigranes Armen 190 Tigranyan, time 12 taxi travel 306 travel taxi Tbilisi 30-54, Suraxan 54-5 Cathedral Svetitskhoveli 41 swimming synagogues 173-86, Syunik 113 Galaktion Tabidze, 171 Talin 107-8, 80, 64, 59, 35, Queen Tamar, 180 Vank Tanahati 184-5 Tatev 184, Monastery Tatev Surp Hripsime Church 149, 291 149, Church Surp Hripsime Ş 103 Kazbegi 272 see 240 t 228 ı 286 232 233 15, 112, 115 112, 15, ı ğ 286 277 261, 286, 286, ki 238-44, ki 238-44, Maiden’s Tower 206 Tower Maiden’s 91 Omalo Zemo Bakuriani 105 Gudauri 84 80 Ski Station Hatsvali irvan National Park 228 National Park irvan 227 Beach ixov amax ahda S Samegrelo 67 67 Samegrelo 101-9, Samtskhe-Javakheti supras stone towers 79 towers stone 114 Robert Sturua, Sukhumi 69-70 Sumqay Stepanavan 165-7 Stepanavan Stepantsminda, spa cures 178, 266 178, cures spa 110 St George 151 the Illuminator St Gregory 188 150, Mashtots St Mesrop 109 100, 88, St Nino 54, 251, 110, 59, 57-8, 35, Joseph Stalin, 270-3, Stepanakert Seljuks 283 Seljuks 153-5 Sevan 165 Stepan Shahumian, Shamshadin 162 Shatili 89 Shenaqo 92 285 111, Eduard Shevardnadze, Shia Islam 288 Shushi 273-4 Sighnaghi 97-100 Ş Sisian 179-80 Ş 275 Skhtorashen 290 skiing 170, smoking 294 87-8 Sno Valley 285, 280, 112, 85, Ossetia South Salaxov, Tahir 262 Tahir Salaxov, Ş 149 Sardarapat 281 187, Serzh Sargsyan, 125 Martiros Sarian, 275 Sarushen 64 Reserve Nature Sataplia 303-5 travel sea Şә safety 297, 298 297, safety 277 Bako Sahakyan, Ş Saakashvili, Mikheil 111-12, 281, 281, Mikheil 111-12, Saakashvili, Rustaveli 35-6, 42-3, 46 42-3, 35-6, Rustaveli 113 95, Shota Rustaveli, 326 Vardzia 107-8 Sardarapat 149 Yerevan 9, 124-45, 126-7, 130-1, 9 Vayk 177-8 Sisian 179 accommodation 135-7 Vayots Dzor 173-7, 175 water, drinking 13, 141, 309 activities 134-5 Verisheen 181 weather 12, 16-19, 295, see also climate 295 video systems 294 individual regions courses 135 visas 299 websites see internet resources cultural centres 141 Armenia 197 wildlife, see animals, birds drinking 138-9 Azerbaijan 268 wine 283 emergencies 141 INDEX Georgia 119-20 Armenia 160-1 entertainment 139-40 visual arts Azerbaijan 236 festivals & events 135 Armenia 191 Georgia 99 food 137-8 V-Z Azerbaijan 262-3 tours 98, 99, 236 history 124 Georgia 113 women in the region 3, 91, 153, 173, internet access 141 182-3, 224, 280, 281, 288 Vorontsov, Count 102 itineraries 128 Women’s Day 17 music 124-5 Vurğun, Sәmәt 262 women travellers 299 postal services 141 work shopping 140-1 W Armenia 197 sights 124-34 walking 14, 116, see also hiking Georgia 120 tours 134-5 Baku 212, 212 World Heritage sites 291 travel to/from 142-4 Becho 83 travel within 144-5 Dilijan 157 Yesenin, Sergei 225 Gergeti 87 X Xan Sarayı 292 Lerik 254-5 Xınalıq 9, 231-2, 9 Z Mestia 81 Zaqareishvili, Levan 114 Tbilisi 40, 40 Zaqatala 245-7, 246 Tusheti 91 Y Zenon 95 Ushguli 83 Yanar Bulağ 254 Zorats Karer 180 Vardzia 107 Yanar Dağ 226-7 Zoroastrians 224 war memorials Yeghegis 177 Zugdidi 66-8 Şahidlәr Xiyabani (Martyr’s Lane) Yeghegnadzor 174-6 Zvartnots Cathedral 147, 291 207 Yenokavan 162-3

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These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram or supporting conservation d Train projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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