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WWD.Diesel.outerwrap.FINAL.adj.ink.indd 1 2/5/09 3:40:37 PM WWD.Diesel.innerwrap.FINAL.adj.ink.indd 1 2/5/09 3:39:15 PM PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO W Gauntlet Running the pages 6to15. For more on the season, see Robert Lee Morris’ necklace. gauntlets, a leather belt and accessories: long fur coat, worn with dramatic a bold-shouldered vicuña ultraconstructed. Here, languid, while others were Some shapes were very for investment dressing. that made a clear case a striking fall collection mid-Eighties on Monday in Donna Karan revisited the Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Women’s Newspaper Daily •February Wear 17,2009•$3.00 •TheRetailers’ Daily GIORGIOTAKES FIFTH w Giorgio Armani brings a new democratized retail concept to a vast space on Fifth Avenue and56thvast spaceonFifth Street,pages16to17. D TUESDAY

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2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 WWD.COM Gianni Versace Items Headed to Auction By Luisa Zargani neoclassical and Empire interior in the designer’s signature color scheme of blue and gold, mosaic MILAN — Sotheby’s London will auction Gianni floors and paneling, sculpture and silver works, WWDTUESReady-to-Wear/TextilesDay Versace’s furniture, paintings and art works on March 18th and 19th century paintings, a collection of FASHION A design idea 18 in a sale that is expected to raise more than 2 mil- paintings on glass, miniatures and a vast array of Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera and Tuleh led the lion pounds, or $2.86 million at current exchange. works of art depicting Roman emperors. from Olson 6 Sundberg pack as the fall collections as New York Fashion The 550 lots were collected by the design- “The house in Moltrasio is a Proust house, Week ramped up. er at his early 19th century residence, Villa whereas the ones in Milano and Miami are more Kundig Allen. Fontanelle, in Moltrasio, on the shores of Lake Batman.…” the late Versace once said of the GENERAL Como. Highlights of the sale include life-size villa versus his other properties. “It is the house Giorgio Armani opens an immense Fifth Avenue casts of Antonio Canova’s Pugilists, which were that really belongs to me, reflecting a mirror 1 flagship today inside a glass structure that he arranged in Versace’s bedroom and are esti- image of all that I am, for better of worse.” calls “very New York.” mated at between 20,000 and 40,000 pounds, Versace bought the abandoned villa in 1977 or $28,696 and $57,393, excluding buyer’s pre- and completed the restoration, including the 2 Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. will take over its mium; a pair of Italian cherry wood break- landscaping of the three surrounding acres of Southeast Asia wholesale and retail distribution front bookcases by Karl Roos after designs by ornamental gardens, in December 1980. from Dickson Concepts International next year. Giuseppe Valadier, circa 1814, and originally To mark the sale, Sotheby’s will re-create Sotheby’s London will auction Gianni Versace’s commissioned by Princess Pauline Borghese for some of the villa’s rooms in its New Bond Street 2 furniture, paintings and art works on March 18 in a the Library at Palazzo Borghese in Rome, es- galleries, down to the designer’s bedding and sale expected to raise more than 2 million pounds. timated at 60,000 to 100,000 pounds and 80,000 detailed arrangements. The exhibition will run to 120,000 pounds, or $86,089 to $143,483 and March 12 to 17. 4 EYE: Matthew Williamson is not one to put work $114,786 to $172,180, and the tempera on canvas Later this month, another major art collection before pleasure, so he had two parties before his “Hercules at the Crossroads Between Vice and assembled over the years by Yves Saint Laurent fall collection showing today was even finished. Virtue,” estimated at between 25,000 and 40,000 and Pierre Bergé is to be sold in Paris by Christie’s Celebrating 100 years in North America, Cartier is pounds, or $35,870 and $57,393, painted in Italy in association with Bergé’s own Paris auction 18 launching the Trinity collection Wednesday on the in 1820 and attributed to Pelagio Palagi. house, Pierre Bergé & Associates. The collection Villa Fontanelle, which was one of Versace’s fa- comprises works by Goya, Mondrian, Matisse and 3.1 Phillip Lim runway. vorite retreats for over 20 years, welcomed guests Léger, bronze and Renaissance art objects, as well French beauty giant L’Oréal posted 2008 net prof- such as Princess Diana, Madonna, Sting and Elton as a collection of furniture by Eileen Gray, Pierre 19 its that fell 26.6 percent year-over-year to 1.95 John, and was sold last year to a Russian multi- Legrain, Jean-Michel Franck, Pierre Chareau and billion euros, or $2.87 billion at average exchange millionaire for an estimated 35 million euros, or Eugene Printz and is expected to fetch up to 300 RTW: Seven firms brainstormed on what’s next for $55 million. The property was embellished with a million euros, or $440 million. s 22 the Seventh Avenue scene, preferably something more like George Jetson than garmento. TEXTILES: Bad weather, a struggling global 24 economy and a scheduling conflict cast a pall on Polo Will Move Distribution the Première Vision and Texworld fairs in Paris. MAGIC is included as a Section II in this issue. Classified Advertisements...... 26-27 For Southeast Asia In-house To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. By Marc Karmizadeh porate strategy to take licens- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 es back in-house, which has FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with NEW YORK — Polo Ralph proven a successful strategy to one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and Lauren Corp. will take over its better control the quality, dis- August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Southeast Asia wholesale and tribution, image and growth Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, retail distribution from Dickson of the company as a whole. In President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Concepts International Ltd., recent years, Polo has taken Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail effective Jan. 1, 2010. back licenses for footwear and Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Dickson Concepts will Polo Jeans, Lauren by Ralph SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR serve as Polo’s licensee for Lauren, and its European and SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new the region until then. Japanese business. and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks At Polo, the Southeast Asia Roger Farah “Today’s announcement after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 region is made up of China, represents a significant stra- Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, tegic step for our company as we continue to de- visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that Taiwan, the Philippines and Thailand. velop our business globally,” Lauren, the compa- offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or The move is in line with Polo’s overall cor- ny’s chairman and chief executive officer, said. information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, “The appetite for our brand UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, and products in Southeast AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, Asia is strong and growing, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS and we expect to build on SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. the momentum by reinforc- ing our luxury lifestyle positioning and elevating our distribution in the region.” DAILY In Southeast Asia, Dickson [The media] talks HILLDUN Concepts sells Polo merchan- “ dise through approximately QUOTE too much, demands too IS IN FASHION 40 freestanding stores and nearly 100 shop-in-shops. much and advises too much. I think Roger Farah, president and FACTORING chief operating officer, called everyone needs to get back in line. ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING the region “a dynamic, emerg- ” ing market with incredibly — Giorgio Armani, in New York for the LETTERS OF CREDIT strong growth characteristics.” opening of his Fifth Avenue flagship. Page one. PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING “We are grateful to Dickson Concepts for en- abling us to establish Polo Ralph Lauren as a premier Y-3 TODAY ON (212) 244-2600 lifestyle brand throughout 225 W 35TH STREET, NY NY 10001 the region over the last two decades, and we look forward to working closely with .com them on a smooth transi- WWD Tim Moore Jeffrey Kapelman Christina Malleos tion,” Farah said. “The work Gary Wassner we will undertake to develop • Ongoing coverage of New York Fashion Southeast Asia is similar to Week, including men’s and women’s what we’ve done successfully reviews, parties and Fashion Scoops (310) 706-4142 in Europe and are currently • Full runs of show from 500 ROSECRANS AVE., SUITE 500 executing in Japan. With con-

NO all the collections trol of our distribution, we e

MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266 NT intend to leverage our world- e • Videos of key shows C class managerial, marketing • Backstage beauty and merchandising capabili- TALAYA Brittany Stapelmann • Featured images from the

ties to deliver significant rev- BY

enue and profit growth over New York Fashion Week scene HOTO

the long term.” P • WWDBlog on dinner with Ashley Dupré it’s show time

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Natalia Vodianova with her For more, son Lucas and husband see WWD.com. Justin Portman.

Local Color MAtthEW WILLIAMSoN is not the sort of stiff who puts work before pleasure. the British designer had not one but two parties before his fall collection — which he’s showing today — was even finished. Barry Diller and on friday night, Glenda Bailey hosted a dinner at private club Diane von Furstenberg norwood for williamson, attended by Joy Bryant, Santigold, Becki Newton and Rachel Zoe. the evening started off standard enough, but by Italo midnight it had turned into a boozy lovefest with williamson making multiple Zucchelli speeches and ready to give away gowns. at Club Matthew Williamson with “After dinner, Joseph [Velosa, chief executive] and i are going to Sandwich. Lindsay Lohan in his design. trot down to the store. if you come with us, you might get a free dress,” he said as he laughed and tied a scarf around his head. “i have a show to do in two days and i’m fine. the point i’m trying to make is, thank you, Glengla. i mean, Glenda.” “Call me whatever you like. You’re so much fun,” said Bailey, who then proceeded to give a speech of her own and quote winston Churchill. on sunday night, williamson opened up his new Meatpacking District store to much of the same crew, plus Lindsay Lohan, who mugged for the cameras in two different dresses during the bash. it was her last stop on the fashion week circuit, because she was jetting back to Los Angeles to continue working on the self-tanner she’s developing with her fashion and beauty company stay Gold. “And in 2011, i’ll be Lucy Liu in doing more clothing,” she said. 3.1 Phillip Lim. Across the street, Diane von Furstenberg held her traditional post-show dinner at her headquarters, which was, reassuringly in these times, the same as it always is. the menu was indochine and the crowd was the usual suspects of Fran Lebowitz, Natalia Vodianova, Francesco and Alba Clemente and a mix of socials and editors. for dessert, von furstenberg brought out a Patricia Field chocolate cake in honor of Marisa Berenson’s 62nd birthday. uptown, Patricia Field was celebrating her 67th with a Japanese-themed dinner at Amalia. Lucy Liu and Pat Cleveland were greeted by geishas and led into a cherry blossom-garlanded back room. there, field held court in a shimmery silver number, having just returned from Athens, where she was working with Anna Vissi (Greece’s answer to Madonna). “the best present is being here with everyone,” said field. over at the rose Bar, Erin Fetherston gathered her friends for a post-show bash, featuring a concert by rock band ivy League. “i go s Santigold [here] all the time and just hide in the corner,” said Zoë Kravitz, who in Matthew then held court at a table in the middle of the room. Williamson. Meanwhile, the remainder of the fashion flock mobbed norwood, where Club sandwich, a party that was transplanted from paris for fashion week and is due to go monthly starting in March, took place. the music was old-school prince and the outfits in the crowd of mostly boys ranged from almost nothing at all to suspenders, clown glasses and sky-high Louboutins. Zoë Kravitz in Alexander Wang stylist Annabelle tollman went like Courtney Love in a pink bustier. “i’ve only seen Joy Bryant in Matthew Williamson Erin Fetherston. at Club Sandwich. one other person wearing one and it was a he,” said tollman. “we gave each with Becki Newton in vintage.

other a wink.” RUDD SCOTT BY OTHERS ALL EICHNER; STEVE BY VODIANOVA FURSTENBERG, VON IMAGES; SUSSMAN/GETTY AMY BY KRAVITZ CELESTE; JIMI BY PHOTO LOHAN

eye on beauty

WWD’S neWeSt aDVeRtISInG oPPoRtunIty

6 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

The Sophisticatescollections/fall Donna Karan: “For me,” Donna Karan wrote in her program notes, dealing with fashion’s new reality Donna Karan “begins with reflecting on our core essence.” Well, ’09 mirror, mirror on the archives. That reflection reached back to the mid-Eighties with crystal transparency for a collection that was both pretty and ponderous. The big question facing designers this season was NEW whether to do mega fashion or go the investment- dressing route. Karan fell firmly in the latter camp, even if the “investment” at retail will be considerable — these are pricy clothes. She worked the sensual side of cozy with day looks that revive the notion of power dressing as something positive and chic. It’s hard to YORK argue with a beautiful vicuña coat or a grandly collared crushed velveteen jacket belted over one of Karan’s sexy jersey gems. As for that beautiful signature draping, it came in skirts and dresses that poured, twisted around and caressed the body, sometimes baring the back to reveal an alluring little underpinning. Such supple fare found contrast in slick, mannish suits. Evening offered similar duality, ultralanguid or hyper-constructed, and both were pure glam. In fact, Karan’s entire lexicon was well represented, the Eighties shape, shoulders and attitude tempered by the artier elements of cut and embellishment that she introduced later on. Here, her favorite details were studding and ribbon work, and her extras, bold Robert Lee Morris baubles, some in leather and wood, and big fur gauntlets that gussied up simple coats. Yet attractive though Karan’s lineup was — and it was plenty — it had problems, and not only its sense of familiarity. More importantly, in her determination to provide what she called strength and security, Karan didn’t quite deliver the happy fashion diversion for which these times cry out.

Carolina Herrera: Has anyone ever seen Carolina Herrera with a hair out of place or less than impeccably turned out? As a pillar of good taste and proper attire, she believes women should make the effort, a mantra she certainly applied to her fall collection. “I think women have to look good,” she said of this season’s starting point. Donna Karan “We cannot forget that fashion is for your eye.” Thus, she gave us plenty to look at with a lavish lineup that drew on Carolina 18th-century architectural details and tony textiles. Herrera Long, lean and nipped at the waist was the dominant silhouette, which suggested an elegance emanating from the Victorian era, particularly in sharp riding jackets worn over fishtail skirts. Though dressed up by daytime standards, the day looks, including skinny, slouchy silk pants and blouses, were some of the strongest, but this collection’s focus was on formalwear. Gowns were slim with volume at the bottom, some with leg-of-mutton sleeves and covered buttons that ran up the back were practically prim. Others cut away at the shoulders and back for discreet sex appeal. Where Herrera struggled was with the balance between refinement and artsiness. The rich jewel tones — emerald green, bronze, violet and teal — were lovely, but the combination of overtly intri- cate constructions and the extravagant baroque fabric mixes sometimes overwhelmed with their opulence.

Tuleh: Bryan Bradley wound decadent romance through his fall collection, seamlessly working brocade and fur, chiffon and wool knits into cropped jackets and tiered skirts. The fabric and print mash-up — orange silk camouflage lined the fur-trimmed hood of a green wool jacket, for instance — could have made for a problematic conceit, but he worked it beautifully. Meanwhile, his venue — the Roubini Casa showroom — certainly had no shortage of scenery, what with the queen-for-a-day front-row armchairs and mammoth modernist paintings, not to mention plush rectangular rugs with swirling, geometric patterns from Bradley’s new collaboration with Roubini. (There’s nothing like a little double-marketing.) For the clothes, Bradley was inspired by the intellectual glamour of Russian socialite Tatiana Liberman (immortalized in the 2005 book “Them,” written by her daughter Francine du Plessix Gray). He thus sent forth drawing-room looks, yes, but with a more youthful aura than in previous seasons: starchy striped shirts tucked under floral- printed coats looked crisp, and a series of short chiffon and sequined cocktail dresses had a subtle dose of sex appeal. Lest Bradley’s uptown woman feel slighted, however, there were plenty of gowns — a blue column, its bodice draped into a rosette, was gorgeous. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS MAKING THE ROUNDS: With President’s Day a national holiday and A flash of skin, luxe fur the first family off back home in Chicago, or a long, lean silhouette White House social secretary all added up to pure Desiree Rogers took the chance glamour in New York. to head to New York and attend her first New York

The Sophisticates Fashion Week. s s Rogers, who Carolina Herrera Tuleh wore a Carolina Herrera gown to the inaugural balls, sat in the front row at the designer’s show

Monday morning NER and later raved H about it to WWD: EVE EIC “The fashions T

were amazing. S BY I do like her work, but this photo collection was Desiree Rogers at very different Carolina Herrera. from what I have seen in the past. I particularly liked the dresses for daytime that were a classic silhouette, but had a bell sleeve and were a little shorter, just below the knee. Those are easier to wear than the long ballgowns.” Rogers was in Manhattan for the day and also hit Donna Karan — by which time she’d changed from a skirt into black pants (“It’s really chilly here,” the Chicago native said), and Thakoon, where she warmly embraced Ikram Goldman, owner of the Chicago boutique Ikram, who is considered First Lady Michelle Obama’s unofficial stylist. The two women exited hand in hand as they crossed over the rows of benches. “I don’t like this part,” Rogers said. “But I’m good, I’m good.” Goldman was greeted with more than a few camera flashes and tape recorders at Thakoon and earlier at Maria Cornejo. She declined comment about Obama. The new mother of twin sons was equally evasive about any retail expansion plans. Asked if she will open more stores, she said, “I don’t know. I never thought I would have twins.” Meanwhile, Rogers headed back to Washington first thing this morning. She’ll then no doubt dive right in prepping for one of the first social functions of the new Obama White House, the Governors’ Ball on Sunday, which will have an expanded guest list this year. And given the stimulus package, no doubt all the governors will arrive hat firmly in hand.

Salma Hayek and François-Henri Pinault last fall. FEUGERE ANE NI PH O E T S BY GIANN VANNI PHOTO O BE MY VALENTINE: PPR chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault and INSEE AND GI

H actress Salma Hayek tied the knot in Paris’ tony Left Bank neighborhood RGE C

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J September 2007. Hayek’s publicist confirmed the marriage but declined S BY further comment.

PHOTO For more Fashion Scoops, see page 20 8 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

Thakoon s collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Thakoon: Calling something “interesting” isn’t always a compliment. But there’s no better word to apply in its most positive sense to Thakoon Panichgul’s fall collection, which was beautiful from beginning to end, as he pulled off clothes that were clever but never overwrought. At its core, the collection was full of lady-fied pieces — shift dresses, silk blouses and polished jackets, such as a double-faced wool style, one lined with feathers, another done as a cape. Panichgul elevated such classics to quirks of construction. Specifically, he worked a bow motif — structured and chic, not sweet — into the back of a trim black jacket and the front of A-line skirts. As he has shown in seasons past, Panichgul loves a print. This time he went for a witty, navy-and- ivory confetti version on a shirtdress, and ruffle print that was playful on a tiered, ruffled dress. But the collection also had its glam side, as seen in seductive sheer inserts on silk dresses and some flamboyant furs. Here, he played into the season’s emerging fanciful fuzz moment with a bright green and orange fox cape dyed like the wings of a King Parrot. EICHNER AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE

Thakoon CENTENO, TALAYA AQUINO, JOHN BY PHOTOS WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Yeohlee Jonathan Saunders

Betsey Johnson

s Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese: Of all the ideas outlined in Tracy with all the requisite curves, structure and of sequins. What looked fresh was a knit ensemble; a Reese’s show notes — romance, understated surprising seaming, has never cared much cropped cable-knit sweater and satin corset over a poin- glamour and post-Impressionistic portraiture for the latest “It” anything. But since this telle skirt that ballooned over a crinoline, as well as among them — eclectic was the most accurate is a season full of folds and asymmetrical some graphic color-blocked sweaters à la the Eighties. description. Indeed, Reese’s collection was less layers, it just might be her moment. At the Yes, there’s an appetite for Johnson’s sense of fashion about a unified theme than a lot of pretty pieces. core of her fall collection was the designer’s fun — she will be partnering with Opening Ceremony She started out strong with sweet, abstract print- basic black catsuit, the perfect foundation for a reissue of past hits. ed dresses, many shown under graphic coats, and for a knockout double-faced wool and angora from there had all the angles of a well-rounded con- cape, long sarongs and a white patent leather Jonathan Saunders: While no one wants these troubled temporary wardrobe covered. Delicate, filmy silk coat in cascading triangles. Less complicated times to dampen the creativity of designers, Saunders’ tops were paired with pinstriped trousers. Draped but just as impressive were the sleek, tailored collection begged the question, Just who are these futur- jersey dresses made for a louche touch, and easy pantsuits and coats, rendered simply in a rich istic cyber-diva clothes for? The uberdramatic shapes, outerwear abounded. If the flashy gold brocade suit black denim. Even Yeohlee’s restraint reflects the metallic fabrics, the six-inch, crystal-covered boo- seemed out of place, the rest of the collection was plenty of thought. ties — it was all just too much. Sure, there are women flush with Reese’s signature flirty frocks and plenty out there who will appreciate the jackets with exagger- of other retail-friendly fare. Betsey Johnson: Betsey Johnson transformed her ated shoulders, often topped with structured capes, and Seventh Avenue showroom into a Fifties malt Saunders’ winning pixilated prints, but, except for a Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng, who has built her small but shop and served up some of her favorite recipes: sleek suit and a streamlined gown or two, this lineup steady business on ingenious architectural shapes pouf skirts, corsets, classic rose prints and plenty will be a hard sell. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

Natorious

Zero + Maria s Cornejo t

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo’s collection was all about “joy.” Not merriment in twist-front silk shirts in a tempting range of tones. Natori showed cozy knits and a burst-at-the-seams sort of way, but the designer’s own personal pleasures. To wit: lighter animal-patterned cardigans. And there were perfect sheaths, the best in a an embellished silk dress that featured images of her cat Grey, who she adopted in gray rayon and spandex jersey. But the most fun news here was the extras she is now July. Or a draped, one-shouldered frock with a print resembling arty brushstrokes selling for the first time: big stone pins in clear or bright colors and bone-buckled that was actually based on a blurry iPhone photo taken from a moving car. But satin belts, timely touches that make a good thing even better. for all that whimsy, the lineup was cool and urban to the core. Cornejo played up tailoring and construction with some great outerwear — the opening hooded jacket, Jill Stuart: One half expected “Borderline” to start playing at Jill Stuart’s show, which for one — and touched upon her youth in Eighties London with punk looks, as in was full of leather and lace and all things 1983 — remember shredded, tiered skirts? the standout tartan mohair cape. And though Cornejo was less successful with the In some instances, the disheveled diva look worked — as with a black lace dress and aggressive black lacquer bouclé pieces, her hits far eclipsed the misses. skinny pants paired with bloused-sleeve tops, which struck a louche vibe. But the freshness of Stuart’s signature dresses often got snuffed out under chiffon layers Natorious: When Josie Natori first entered the world of ready-to-wear with Natorious and fringe. in 2008, it seemed a less viable venture than it does now. Rather than simply offering some pretty, wearable items, this season the designer has created a real collection, Y-3: Guests arriving at the Y-3 show had to circle the perimeter of a soccer field one that offers a wardrobe: chic sturdy toppers; cotton and silk suits, and pretty — with a game in full swing — before getting to their seats. It couldn’t have been WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 11 WWD.COM

Jill Stuart

For all collections’ complete run of show, see WWD.com thomas iannaccone giannoni and giovanni t s Y-3 centeno, talaya asha antonov, p

by Photos Matthew Ideeën Ames a better set up for Yohji Yamamoto’s spotless women’s collection of sportswear and snappy tailoring. There were Academy of Art University: sharp jackets — some trimmed with velvet, others in military If one goes by the casting cuts or cropped — and even better outerwear: the simple at Friday evening’s show toggle coat, puffy parka or a more dramatic flyaway number highlighting its graduate with zipper accents. Punching up everything was the students’ collections, it collaboration with Brooklyn street artist Momo, who hand- seems the Academy of painted pieces for a graphic bent. This was the designer at Art is aiming to be taken his youthful and clean-cut best. Perhaps an influence was the seriously by New York’s launch of Y-3 children’s, which even had the typically reticent fashion crowd. Karlie designer taking a finale bow, surrounded by a coterie of Kloss, Chanel Iman, Edythe adorably dressed pint-sized models. Hughes and Anja Rubik In men’s wear, Yamamoto took a decidedly commercial tack, hoofed it for the school, sticking to athletic and military-inspired shapes. (No more of drawing cheers from a last season’s man dresses.) Major volume was pumped into student-heavy crowd. bright cocoon coats and fatigue pants, while Momo’s painted But about the clothes: decorations toned down the machismo of the silhouettes. Emily Melville A collaboration among and Ivanka San Francisco’s Britex Matthew Ames: Matthew Ames may be under the radar — his Georgieva Fabrics and 15 students line, now in its sixth season, is sold at Takashimaya — but yielded several strong and judging from Sunday’s elegant, Eastern-influenced show Britex voluminous looks, notably (funded by an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award), this Fabrics a mohair coat and wool Brooklyn-based designer ought to get ready for the klieg lights. Project crepe dress; elsewhere, Taking cues from what he called the “purity of fabric,” Ames Heather Howard and Cat crafted cocoon coats and harem pants, ponchos and intricately Janky worked whimsical wrapped dresses in rich materials, from Ultrasuede and silk prints — mossy-green crepe to cashmere corduroy. Volume and asymmetry were key, trees, pale faces — onto as with a one-shouldered black dress, pleated in the back, and shirtdresses, and their a cream silk dress gathered at the bodice. His clean palette textured, burnout print and the focused collection was like a gust of fresh air. pea coat showed technical savvy. The best was saved Ideeën: Add Junko Hirata and Atsuko Yanase of Ideeën to the for last, though — a series list of young, edgy downtown designers. For their first fashion of terrific, fluid silk dresses week showing — this is their fourth season — the duo flaunted and printed wool coats by prowess in everything from denim (coolly dyed to resemble Emily Melville and Ivanka water’s reflection) to tailoring (sturdy wool flared coats) and Georgieva, whose nine looks knit-and-fur combos (a kicky flapper dress gone Goth). And in putty and cream hues though there were too many avant-garde ideas, there was a looked entirely appropriate softer side, too — pretty, languid tops with ruffle inserts. on those hotsteppers. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 WWD.COM t more from the shows... Andy & Debb Rachel Comey: No doubt Comey’s loyal nerdy- chic customer will be snapping up her versatile Gerlan Jeans fall outing, highlighted by cheeky prints — top- collections/fall hatted doormen hoisting umbrellas, anyone? — on lovely silk dresses paired with piled knits (alpaca ribbed tops, wool cardies). ’09 Costello Tagliapietra: Known for their delicate draping and pleating, this season Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra applied their techniques not only to jersey dresses, but also to Ultrasuede versions. NEW

United Bamboo: Designers Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki translated their love affair with architecture and origami into a smart collection defined by a subtle protective YORK feeling in voluminous, cocoonlike coats and stiff jacquard dresses.

Costello t Andy & Debb: Andy Kim and Tagliapietra Unconditional: Philip Stephens was feeling Debbie Yoon managed to deliver aggressive — an attitude seemingly at odds a butterfly-themed sportswear Rachel Karen with his signature cuddly knits — though collection that was virtually Comey Walker he pulled it off in sporty black-and-white gimmick-free by keeping the pieces, some with “protective” cocoon references subtle: curved Carlos shapes and biker details. hemlines, bow-shaped Miele draping and a wing print Araks: Araks Yeramyan crafted easy separates, reminiscent of stained glass. such as a wrap blazer or tapered trousers, out of corduroy and washed wool in a pretty lineup Karen Walker: Karen Walker offered that had a light and airy feel — not unlike the more dresses than usual, though it was lingerie for which she’s known. her separates and the eclectic mix of textures — a black and white speckled Shelly Steffee: Inspired by horses and their blazer paired with a jersey T-shirt elegant athleticism, Shelly Steffee worked and heathered sweatshirt trousers, for accents such as braiding and superthin leather example — that held the spotlight. details into a versatile lineup, which even featured some multifunctional pieces like a VPL: Victoria Bartlett took an off-kilter jacket and romper combo. approach to her signature sporty layered look with asymmetric cuts and terrific Thuy: Thuy Diep’s collection was a largely knits that were quirky and cool. uneventful parade of dressy separates and frocks, though at times her formula worked, as in an James Coviello: A pretty frock goes a long way, iridescent twisted seam mini paired with a tank to Vienna in this case, where James Coviello and a sharp-shouldered black coat. found inspiration for his graphic print dresses that were sashed or accented with artsy beads, Akiko Ogawa: Showing a tougher side, Akiko then topped with a ladylike coat. Ogawa updated her usual tricks — i.e., ombré dyeing and handkerchief hems Frank Tell: In the sea of black, hard rocker Frank — and crafted an edgy-chic, sculptural looks, Frank Tell’s romantic ruffled blouses Tell Ruffian collection that featured fuzzy sweaters and flirty party dresses stood out. and wool skirts. Jeremy Ruffian: Brian Wolk and Claude Morais found a nice Laing E.Y. Wada: In their fashion week harmony between military prep and downtown cool debut, Eunyoung Song and Shuji in black and gray separates, but struck a sour chord Wada channeled a bygone Joan by the end, with froulike puffed shoulders, allover Crawford in a Forties-flecked, MITRA ROBERT ruching and unfortunate feather pieces. secretary-chic collection — complete with ample shoulder Walter: Walter Baker offered up more of the street- volume, naturally. chic stuff his contemporary girls love — cool swingy knits, liquid leggings and grungy flannel tops. Adrienne Vittadini: Classic American sportswear lives on

Carlos Miele: With Brazilian Miss t at Vittadini as creative director instrumentalist Max de Castro Sixty Kristiina Salminen looked to the

riffing down the runway, Miele’s house’s heritage, working knits GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND latest had great flavor, from day into cocoon-shaped outerwear dresses with an architectural bent to and tweed-esque suiting.

flowing geometric-print gowns — GIOVANNI his only misstep: bolero overload. Organic by John Patrick: A blue painterly print sack t Mara Hoffman: Mara Hoffman and VPL dress and full-skirt trench lent Klee Van Schoonhoven delivered a a schoolgirl sophisticate air to strong collection with an ethnic John Patrick’s lineup, rendered in black bent that featured knits layered and brown organic wools and cottons over fitted separates as well as without a hint of hippie. ERICKSEN, CHINSEE, KYLE the beautiful chiffon gowns they Erin do so well. Nicholas K Fetherston Gerlan Jeans: Former print designer Gerlan Marcel took over Patricia Field’s Nicholas K: Designer Nicole downtown home to showcase her Kunz showed a women’s Erin Fetherston: Dolls and Form: Designer Jerry Tam does asymmetry colorfully fun streetwear, which ranged lineup of grungy separates drummers marched Erin Fetherston’s well, and while a double placard blazer and from hoodies and sweater dresses to — including slouchy jackets runway in a precious mix of baby dolls, the draped cloaks were nice, in the end this skinny jeans and Ts, all emblazoned and cargo shorts — and the bows and button-up jackets that, while outing was more of the same. with graphic arrows, doll faces and occasional dress, the best of which fun for a show, were too much of a toy basketweave prints. were plaid. In men’s wear, the desert- story in the end. Edition by Georges Chakra: For his first rtw GEORGE CENTENO, CALABRESE, TALAYA

grunge vibe (evocative of “Mad Max”) collection, the couturier got stuck in flashy Bodkin: Eviana Hartman’s eco-conscious collection JOHN gave a tough edge to cardigans with Twinkle by Wenlan: Wenlan Chia took a Fifties partywear, affixing plastic butterflies and for the Brooklyn-girl-about-town looked anything functional features, double-breasted drive-in-loving gal and gave her a dose of unwieldy bows to gowns, though several but recycled, with a fresh, color-blocked dress and plaid shirts and rugged outerwear. downtown cool for her lineup, which included sequined looks — including the strapless silks blessed by the Dalai Lama himself. flirty printed dresses and skinny pants, all silver minidress — had just the right spark Jeremy Laing: Full of ideas, Jeremy paired with her chunky knits. for evening. Rozae Nichols/Rozae by Rozae Nichols: It’s those Laing sent out some intriguing jacquard special and sometimes obscure details that keep pieces with leather sleeves or hemlines Miss Sixty: Sheena is a punk rocker, and so Poleci: The avant-garde aesthetic that Rozae Nichols’ fans enthralled, such as hand-

of varying lengths that, when paired were Wichy Hassan’s girls in all their acid- creative director Janice Levin-Krok was going painted ribbons peeking from the seams of a JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA with flowing silks, nailed his masculine- wash and lace-print denim glory, not to for worked well by day — a sculpted skirt main collection coat and the beautiful photo of feminine aesthetic, though many looks mention leather jackets, shaggy furs and here, a mohair and silk column there — but a vintage lightbulb printed onto a shift from her

would have benefited from a paring down. tabloid-print dresses. spelled disaster for evening. secondary line. PHOTOS BY Congratulates

on a Great Show!

CYNTHIA ROWLEY LEGWEAR SALES INFO: 48 West 38th Street 3rd Floor New York, NY • Tel: 212.391.4143 14 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

WITH AN EMPHASIS ON TAILORING, Z Zegna explored the lighter side of masculine power as Finedesigners showed looks rangingand from prep-street hybri ds toDandy deconstructed sportswear. Z Zegna

Z Zegna: Transferred to a dark space filled with thumping dance beats, Z Zegna’s show was a departure in numerous ways. It featured plenty of the modern tailoring expected from the brand, but with a sense of dandyism and even frivolity. The audience was transported to a city sidewalk just after a downpour. The textiles and surfaces in the collection ranged from superslick to totally matte, with fabrics that evoked wet asphalt in between. In lieu of an intellectually meaty philosophy or art movement for inspiration, creative director Alessandro Sartori simply spoke about helping men look elegant, masculine and powerful without taking anything too seriously. To meet the first part of that objective, he devised a silhouette with hard-charging broadness in the shoulders and elongated top coats. He used stiffer fabrics that held their voluminous shapes. And the spotlighted accessory was an oversize doctor’s bag that verged on luggage. collections/fall But Z Zegna topped each look with a domed hat with curled sides, which added a touch of insouciance, as did large buttons and short ’09 neckties at times. Some jackets had paths of random buttons paved on them. Others featured dense rows of decorative safety pins. Z Zegna “Each look has some fun behind it,” Sartori NEW said. He had the models splashing through real puddles on the runway. That alone looked pretty fun. YORK

For all collections’ complete run of show, see WWD.com WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 15 WWD.COM

Corpus Tim Yigal Hamilton Azrouël RA T MI T ER OB AND R O EN T A CEN Y ALA T E, ST , JIMI CELE O AQUIN N OH J

Z Zegna photos by more from the shows... Buckler

Victor Glemaud

Loden Dager Loden Dager: This collection was heavy on knits and Corpus: For their first presentation, Corpus designers and evident even at his disorderly presentation. (With half hunting references and oddly overdecorated with buttons. Ecco Domani Fashion Fund winners Jerrod Cornish and an hour still to go, beer-fueled models were freely Keith Richardson demonstrated how far they’ve come from abandoning their stations.) The most recognizable form Spurr: This thoroughly commercial but undistinctive denim and T-shirts. In men’s, their special blend of East of the Tim Hamilton Man is a carefully coiffed young collection combined sartorial elements with versatile Coast prep and West Coast street was best represented by troublemaker in a parka thrown over jersey layers — sportswear and puffers. outerwear such as a duffel coat with buckled leather straps one of them striped — in a palette of black, white, red in lieu of toggles, a velvet puffer vest and an all-black or electric blue. Buckler: Channeling a Dorian Gray theme, Andrew Buckler varsity jacket extended to knee length. A sophisticated showed a literal lineup of models that progressed from blazer was cut from a workwear plaid. The collection had a Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël’s outstanding sense of layering youthful denim looks to more mature, sophisticated high degree of texture, especially the knitwear. Everything really shines in the fall-winter season. His deconstructed tailored outfits. still relates to jeans, staying close to Corpus’ roots. jerseys, chunky aged knits and washed leathers added As for women’s, the Corpus girl is street smart and up to a carefree yet distinctive look, while long johns Sergio Davila: The pattern combinations in this incoherent borrows from her boyfriend, so the designers offered her and belted sweater coats imparted a cozy, loungewear mix of suits and sparkly knits failed due to a lacking sense femmed-up options for fall, such as a plaid silk blouse feeling. For this presentation, Azrouël acknowledged of scale. and a full skirt in black techno fabric. his customer’s artistic, downtown sensibility and commissioned a three-dimensional wall from Dror Victor Glemaud: Victor Glemaud’s form-fitting knitwear Tim Hamilton: It has taken a bit of time, but Tim Benshetrit and the artist Dov Talpaz, whose works were came in a muted range of textured solids, and many were Hamilton has established some continuity, which was also printed on garments. pretreated with moth holes. 16 WWD, tuesday, february 17, 2009

Men’s underwear.

The bar.

Giorgio’s

Kind of Town The sculptural grand staircase.

By Alessandra Ilari and Marc Karimzadeh who were my idols in the Seventies.” Armani knows well what the challenges are, describ- He recalled once having an area at Bergdorf ’s “so ing fashion as “overly inflated and the expectations one “Sophia Loren said grazie to America when small you could maybe only sell 10 dresses in there. And has from it, excessive.” she received the Oscar; this is my way of saying merci to Bendel is the one store I looked at with so much attention “Every year, one feels the pressure of increasing the first market to open up to my world.” because it was a small but very sophisticated store.” sales by 20 percent but I’m not sure that’s right,” he said. So says Giorgio Armani, referring to his new Armani/5th Of course, much has changed since those days, and the “Maybe all one should do is find a stable positioning [in Avenue megaflagship that opens today — an immense designer’s 43,000-square-foot store is another symbol of the market] and defend that position because other- store he called “very New York,” based inside a glass the strength of his business. Although the global economy wise you venture into a market that isn’t yours anymore. structure on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 56th Street. has nose-dived since the designer’s announcement to in- Everyone started doing everything lately and at the first The store imports the drama of the city to its inte- vest here a year ago, Armani has no regrets. That said, signals of recession, the consumer says ‘Who needs an- rior, which is marked by a striking, sculptural grand mirroring the gloomy times, he decided to nix a post- other Armani bag?’” staircase. It also brings Italy’s fashion giant to a part of opening bash complete with a runway show and dinner, Determined to send out a clear message of change, Manhattan that is home to significant stores by some of contributing the sum to a charity he plans to unveil at a the store represents his interpretation of the current Armani’s countrymen, including Gucci, Prada, Versace, press conference today. The press conference will be fol- trend for mixing genres and juxtaposing items in differ- Fendi, Bottega Veneta and, a few blocks down, Diesel, lowed by a store opening party that is expected to attract ent price brackets. which is also opening today. Alicia Keys, Victoria Beckham, John Mayer, Josh Hartnett, The four-level store develops vertically, spanning The Armani store’s design capitalizes on the corner Martin Scorcese and Emile Hirsch, among others. from casual to posh. It carries Armani’s multitiered location, and the glass structure offers views up Fifth “One must go on. [This store] is an act of courage and world, allowing shoppers to dabble with a vast assort- Avenue, to Henri Bendel across the street, to Bergdorf faith towards America, a country that has supported me ment of labels and categories, including the first U.S. Goodman and to Central Park a few blocks up. The loca- from the very beginning,” he said. “I think an entrepre- Armani/Dolci corner stocked with refined pralines, pre- tion resonates with Armani on an emotional level. neur should demonstrate a certain degree of bravery, serves and teas. “It is a very important location, next door to Bergdorf even in difficult times, and I certainly wasn’t going to Armani designed capsule collections for Giorgio Goodman and Henri Bendel’s, which in the Seventies change my plans.” Armani and Emporio Armani that are exclusive to were my idols, so you can imagine how filled with emo- Armani declined to reveal how much the store cost, the store. The signature range for men and women in- tion I am,” the designer said, sitting in a curved ban- or first-year sales projections, but admitted, “It’ll take cludes python jackets and blue cashmere T-shirts and quette in the store’s top floor restaurant on Monday. “At quite a few years to recuperate the costs. But I’m inter- limited edition jeans, in white and blue, bearing the 75, I got to Fifth Avenue, across the street from those ested in making the store work.” “Armani/5th Avenue” logo. The leather goods selection WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 17 WWD.COM

on the ground fl oor. The second fl oor offers Giorgio Armani women’s clothing, accessories and beauty products, and Emporio Armani men’s wear and women’s shoes. The third fl oor showcases Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani men’s wear and accessories, Armani/Casa, the Armani/Dolci bar, and a full-service restaurant. “This store is an experiment for me as well. I’m still learning how to dose the various products but I do think it’s quite exceptional,” said Armani. When queried about the validity of drawn-out seasons and early deliveries, which, among other things, have led to furs in store windows in July and to ever-earlier markdowns, Armani defi nes it as a “gran casino,” or a big mess. “People are adverse to it. I’ve always main- tained that’s not my history, or Europe’s for that matter, but we had to adjust to the fl ow,” said Armani. “I think now is the reality check to see if the wheels put in motion 20 years ago by U.S. department stores are still valid.” For his part, he plans on revising the delivery windows to better refl ect consumers’ needs. Armani also took a dig at the press, which he deems “too powerful. [The media] talks too much, demands too much and advises too much. I think everyone needs to get back in line,” said Armani. He resents how magazines show an improba- ble dress on a page and make it look good thanks to the photographer, the model, the hair and makeup, and so forth. “But in reality that product is what it is,” said Armani. Here and below: His arrival on Fifth Avenue is giving a further Inside Armani on Fifth Avenue. boost to a stretch already heavy on Italian fl agships. “Italians are very bright and very dynamic, and in Ginza in Tokyo, for instance. The Italians are very present and very brave, and perhaps it’s because they have product that sells well, which is not a bad thing,” Armani said. “Perhaps it’s not too much in the sense of ‘fashion’ but they sell pretty well, and this must be told to a certain part of the American press, which protects all the foolish things which are too much. This is my message.” Nonetheless, he has been noticing an air of change in New York since arriving on Saturday. “I see less people walking around, and I see that people are not so full of pride anymore,” he said. “I see people are more careful now. I always thought that sooner or later, this tenden- cy to do things ‘too much’ would have created STEPHEN SULLIVAN some problems. Saying that, it might sound like I am contradicting myself because I have cre-

PHOTOS BY ated this space. It’s not a small boutique that is 15 square feet or Giorgio Armani something.” He added the store was planned several years ago, and is also a way for him to show his ongoing commitment to the American market. Armani’s love affair with the U.S. harkens back to the early Eighties. “I’ll never forget my fi rst show at Rockefeller Center when at the end of the show the audience was silent. I was about to faint when a loud and hearty applause broke out. It was amazing,” recalled the designer. He still enjoys going out in New York City. After arriving on Saturday, Armani dined at Scarpetta and went to the night- offers glossy asphalt gray python accessories with satin “There are still the luxury club Cielo. And on Sunday night, lining, plus maxi hobo bags and oblong rigid clutches in brands like Prada, Gucci, there is he had dinner at Pastis. “Instead napa with a croc effect. still Bergdorf ’s and Takashimaya, of going to a chichi restaurant For men, Armani envisioned crocodile messen- and next to them, there are some where I have the feeling of being ger bags and briefcases with a detachable case for brands that are maybe easier to Giorgio Armani, there I was one BlackBerrys, iPhones or pens. access and more affordable,” of many customers,” said Armani, The designer spun more edge into Emporio Armani he said. “That is why I decided who has a penthouse in New York exclusives with Lurex or silicon effects on leather blou- to mix together Emporio with on Central Park West. “People sons and a slew of fi ve-pocket jeans with leather labels. Giorgio Armani.” were saying hello to me, waving at The special offerings extend to eyewear and watches. Armani once again turned to me, but it’s a part of New York that The designer hopes the exclusive products and the architects Doriana and Massimiliano Fuksas to create I love, to be part of the community.” store’s layout will encourage consumers to spend. the glass cube, whose main concept is that of fl uidity. On his next trip, he will have his own eatery serving Giorgio Armani and Emporio share the same fl oor But he’s quick to point out it was a group effort, because modern Italian fare. “I hope the next time I come, I will space, deliberately void of partitions to avoid psycho- he would never allow one of his stores to become some- have dinner here,” Armani said of the restaurant. “This logical barriers. one else’s architectural “object of desire.” restaurant is very special and in a special location. I “Today even a wealthy woman is careful about how Curved walls and tables exude a sense of movement, think it will work very well in the day, but hope it will much she spends for a basic garment,” said Armani. a feeling that is heightened by a grand staircase made also become a destination for the evening.” “This store allows me to showcase my lines in the with rolled calender steel and covered in a plasticized In fact, it’s among his favorite parts of the store — best manner possible, to refl ect my taste. Department material that enhances its sculptural, vortex-like form. that and the staircase, which Armani believes has the stores have too many fi lters when it comes to choosing The color scheme “is very Armani” with a sea of towering appearance of the dinosaur skeletons at the which and how the items are displayed, and sometimes beige, black lacquered details, fl ashes of glossy metal American Museum of Natural History. the result isn’t always good,” he claimed. and special lighting. “The restaurant with the opening to Fifth Avenue is Armani chose Fifth Avenue because, while it may be Sportswear by EA7, Armani Jeans and selections something exceptional, and then the great staircase that less exclusive in character than comparable addresses, including underwear and swimwear from Emporio could look disproportionate actually gives power to the he says it has a democratic mood, which the designer Armani are on the lower level, while Giorgio Armani space,” he said. “A smaller staircase would have looked is certain represents the future. His store on Madison accessories and fragrance and Emporio Armani too small. I hope in the evening, people here in New Avenue will remain open. sportswear, accessories and fragrances are available York will say, ‘Let’s go have dinner at the dinosaur.’” 18 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 WWD.COM MEMO PAD HEAVY LUNCH: The rain and blustery weather didn’t stop an Mendoza and In Style managing editor Ariel Foxman, Cavalli worked to take the trends outlined in the contemporary book Oscar-worthy pool of stars from coming out in Los Angeles said business at his nightclub in Florence is OK (a club and translate them into the classic catalogue, as well. Both on Friday to support V-Day, a global movement to end in Dubai is due to open but does not have a confirmed catalogues will be mailed in the first week of March. The violence against women. Hosted by feminist playwright date), and hoped people would seek out adult playtime Want It book has a circulation of 300,000 while the classic Eve Ensler and Glamour, the luncheon at the Four Seasons to help ease concerns over the economy. “[The world is book will land in about 75,000 homes. — Jean E. Palmieri hotel was full of celebrities like Anne Hathaway, Anne in] a little bit of a crisis,” said Cavalli. “I feel that when Archer, Charlize Theron, Kerry Washington, Camryn Manheim, you have such a moment, the best medicine for crisis is READING TEENAGERS: The rise of social media has laden Jessica Alba, Maria Bello, Rosario Dawson, Hollywood to have fun.” Meanwhile, Roberts reflected on fashion’s media professionals with extra anxiety: Just what happens heavyweights Sherry Lansing and Pamela Wagner and an resilience in times of recession, pointing to designers to an editor or a seasoned reporter — not to mention even more head-turning surprise guest: California First Alexander McQueen and John Galliano who flourished during journalistic standards — when information is increasingly Lady Maria Shriver. The annual luncheon spotlights a Britain’s financial woes in the Eighties and early Nineties. being transmitted by person to person through Facebook, “I’ve been through so many recessions,” the British editor Twitter, and whatever else is around the corner? Nowhere said. “In a funny way recessions are a new thing in this is the social media rubric more relevant than with teenage country. There’s always been a bounty of prosperity and girls, whose changing habits have led to the recent good times, and so it’s kind of a bit of a shock here when dissolution of several magazines aimed at them. this happens. However, England has survived for years With her collaborations with teenage girls over the past and years and years as a victim of a recession. Recessions few years, editorial consultant Amy Goldwasser is taking bring out the best in people, bring out the spirit of a stab at a working theory. Goldwasser, whose current gig competition against the odds. And out of recessions come is freelance editing at Elle, conceived of a platform for great things.” — Stephanie D. Smith teenage girls’ writing, edited as one would a professional’s story. The first permutation was quite traditional: “RED: MAKING A COMEBACK: In its ongoing effort to become more Teenage Girls in America Write on What Fires Up Their Lives of a fashion authority in men’s wear, Saks Fifth Avenue Today,” published in 2007 and recently out in paperback. will reissue stand-alone men’s catalogues this spring. After Hundreds of submissions were whittled down to 58 and a hiatus of several years, the upscale store will offer both then edited by Goldwasser, launching a national tour of a classic book and a contemporary mailer, the latter of readings, social networking and blogs, an upcoming theater Anne Hathaway, Jessica Alba, which will be centered around the store’s latest Want It adaptation in Los Angeles, and most recently an online Charlize Theron and Eve Ensler at campaign of the season’s trends. “This is keeping with the trendspotting newsletter. the V-Day Luncheon in Los Angeles. initiative to continue growing men’s wear at Saks,” said Though more than one marketer would likely jump at Photo by wireimage by Photo Tom Ott, senior vice president and general merchandise the possibility of effectively targeting this demographic, particular issue of violence against women; this year’s manager of men’s. for now the newsletter is editorially oriented. It comprises focus was rape in the Democratic Republic of Congo The 64-page classic catalogue offers 12 pages of a entertainment and shopping recommendations produced and the event honored Dr. Denis Mukwege, winner of the style guide where the store asks by the girls who wrote for the book, U.N. Human Rights Prize for his work to heal the women men to answer a few questions edited by Goldwasser. Through the of Congo. The subject matter kept most attendees from about their lives and then makes end of this month, it will be sent touching their meals. “People were just pushing food recommendations on what they out to subscribers of I Heart Daily, around on their plates; this is so heavy but so important,” should wear. To help him when a free e-mail newsletter founded by Hathaway said. “I’m actually stepping outside to get a he does come into the store, Ott former ElleGirl editors Anne Ichikawa drink.” Theron was introduced to Ensler through the U.N., said Saks will display “talking and Melissa Walker, and then it and said she was planning an education and outreach trip signs,” which tout the benefits is expected to take on a life of its through Africa at the end of March. But the star power of a particular trend, such as own, with its own distribution and a wasn’t the weightiest thing in the room. “I assume you slimmer dress shirts or suits. broader contributor base. guys are digesting a lot more than the meal,” Dawson said The contemporary Want It mailer Goldwasser hopes to one day use to guests after Mukwege spoke. — Anne Riley-Katz centers around the work of street this combination of user-generated artist-turned-Barack Obama- and edited model for a print POSITIVE THINKING: Despite the economic dark cloud portraitist Shepard Fairey, whose magazine, which she believes will looming over New York Fashion Week, Vanity Fair fashion images will be used in all Saks add “both a much-needed element and style director Michael Roberts and Roberto Cavalli stores as well as on shopping bags of curation to the Internet DIY remained optimists at the Friday book signing for “Fighters and in an online video. culture and introducing the prize of and Flowers,” a photo book shot by Roberts of Brazilian The men’s catalogues also mark publication — forever, in a beautiful martial artists wearing looks by Cavalli. In between signing the debut of Eric Jennings, who print mag, for all your friends to books for guests including Eva Chow, Padma Lakshmi, joined the store as men’s fashion see.” In the meantime, it’s for all of Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo, Miss Universe Dayana director last August. Jennings s A look inside Saks’ contemporary mailer. your friends to fwd. — Irin Carmon

ringed bracelets, earrings and rings accented with diamond stars and launches this month in cartier boutiques. retail prices start at about $1,700. in April, a more com- Cartier to Unveil New Trinity Line prehensive collection will debut, featuring an oversize bracelet with pavé diamonds and chain necklaces. prices for these start at about $850. By Sophia Chabbott “[cartier] has accomplished so much in the last 100 years, imagine what the next 100 years will bring,” said frédéric de narp, presi- As pArt of this yeAr’s celebrAtion of 100 yeArs dent and chief executive officer of cartier north America. “We of conducting business in north America, cartier will are celebrating the cartier centennial in America with diamond launch a new trinity collection Wednesday on the 3.1 stars for the stars of America.” phillip lim runway. Debuting the jewelry on lim’s rock ’n’ roll-themed fall col- the trinity ring was originally conceived in 1924 and has lection is cartier’s attempt to celebrate its past, while moving since become one of cartier’s signature pieces, in addition to into the future. lim became acquainted with the brand through the love bracelet and the tank watch. With influential wear- its charity initiatives a few years back and ever since has begun ers over the years such as yves saint laurent, Jean cocteau, adding pieces to his personal collection. David bowie and Madonna, the ring is made of three interlock- “i have always loved cartier,” said lim. “My favorite piece of ing rings of white, rose and yellow gold representing friendship, jewelry is a love bracelet that i have been wearing for 14 years now love and fidelity, respectively. and i never take it off. for me, it is always about the combination of de- the new line is divided into two subcollections. the first, called A look from Cartier’s sign, materials and taste. i also look for brands that have strong, consistent trinity 100 collection to celebrate cartier’s centennial, comprises three- new Trinity collection. value and heritage.”

EYE on SHoPPInG

WWD’S nEWEST ADVERTISInG oPPoRTUnITY WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 19 WWD.COM Topshop Staying True to Roots for U.S. L’Oréal 4th-Qtr. Profits Drop By David Moin By Jennifer Weil ficult and we are prepared for this. Topshop isn’t about to alter its formula for its U.S. debut, despite Confidence because the cosmetics some anxiety as a result of construction delays, logistical complexities and the weaken- PARIS — French beauty giant L’Oréal market has always shown resilience at ing economy. posted 2008 net profits that fell 26.6 per- times of crisis, and because L’Oréal’s That assurance came from Topshop’s flamboyant owner Sir Philip Green, in an in- cent year-over-year to 1.95 billion euros, fundamentals are strong and our fi- terview at Gramercy Park Hotel on Monday, where he outlined plans for the trendy or $2.87 billion at average exchange. nancial situation is robust. But also U.K.-based chain’s first U.S. store: a 40,000-square-foot flagship set to open April 2 at 478 The decline stemmed partly from resolve, because thanks to our prod- Broadway in SoHo. a difficult comparison due to the sale Green said building the store, at a cost of $20 million to $25 million, has been “a of Sanofi-Aventis shares resulting in slightly tortured process” and “more effort than acquiring a company.” Yet he empha- a capital gain of 643 million euros, or For more on L’Oréal, sized consistency in the strategy, which entails providing newness via almost weekly $945.2 million, in November 2007. see WWD.com. shipments, a wide range of items covering the wardrobe, value as defined by “designer L’Oréal’s full-year revenues came looks” at moderate to better prices, and amenities more apt to be seen at luxury stores in at 17.54 billion euros, or $25.81 bil- including style advisers and the Topshop To Go mobile home shopping service. lion, up 2.8 percent. On a like-for-like Then there’s his “no sale” policy, he told WWD. “This is going to be all about con- basis, the company’s sales increased tent — great product.” 3.1 percent in 2008, which was below Topshop can drive business the 4 percent comparable revenue without heavy discounting, growth forecast made by the company Green said, noting that when the in October. That forecast in turn had retailer did run a sale the week been lowered from a 6 percent target after Christmas, “Seventy per- set in August. cent of the product we sold was At constant exchange rates, at full price anyway. It was our L’Oréal’s revenues grew 6.6 percent biggest week in our history.” last year. Currency fluctuations nega- The key is fresh deliveries — tively impacted the company’s busi- about 150 items every seven to ness by 3.8 percent. 10 days are being promised for By geographic zone, the firm’s SoHo, compared with 300 or so sales in North America dropped 6.6 weekly at its London flagship. percent to 3.74 billion euros, or $5.5 “We have the network to do billion (and by 4.8 percent on a com- that,” Green said. “Consumers parable basis); in Western Europe, will see very regular newness. sales rose 1.8 percent to 7.38 billion We pride ourselves on having a euros, or $10.86 billion (and declined world-class global supply net- 0.3 percent on a like-for-like basis), work. We have people traveling and in the rest of the world they reg- 24/7 around the globe, and our istered a 12.5 percent uptick to 5.24 own in-house design.” billion euros, or $7.71 billion. On a Depending on the item, there constant basis, that area’s growth was could be anywhere from 200 to 13.8 percent. 10,000 sku’s in stock. But re- “In an environment made very dif- gardless of what it is: “We want ficult in 2008 by the economic crisis, to sell out and sell out quickly,” L’Oréal is proving resilient and is con- Jean-Paul said Mary Homer, Topshop’s tinuing to grow in terms of sales, net Agon managing director. “If it’s gone earnings per share and market share,” in a week, that’s great.” For more on Topshop stores, As far as the styles and sizes see WWD.com. offered in the U.S. “We’ve done a lot of testing over the last BEAUTY BEAT year. We are not going to change anything,” Green stated. said Jean-Paul Agon, the firm’s chief uct innovation momentum, the unique The U.K.-based retailer, executive officer. “With annual sales quality of our brand portfolio, our JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY among the world’s largest pri- growth of 3.1 percent like-for-like possibilities for geographic expansion vate fashion chains with about and 6.6 percent at constant exchange and our determination to strengthen $1.8 billion in annual volume, rates, L’Oréal continued to strengthen our business drivers and control our We’re a leader in delivering is also banking on Kate Moss. its positions in 2008 and increased its costs, we are confident in L’Oréal’s “ For the third consecutive year, worldwide market share. ability to successfully weather this content, delivering trend. Moss has an exclusive line at “In a year when the downturn adverse economic climate and to even — Sir Philip Green,” Topshop Topshop this season. Green in markets was combined with the emerge stronger than before.” said she will attend the SoHo adverse impact of currency fluctua- Lindsay Owen-Jones, L’Oréal’s opening. tions and costs in raw materials, the chairman, said, “The board of direc- He cited other exclusive “ranges” in the store, including a new line launching April group’s net profit held up well, and tors’ proposal to pay a dividend of 28 from Barbara Hulanicki, founder of the famed Biba collection, and currently an in- growth in net earnings per share of 3.8 1.44 euros [or $1.84 at current ex- terior designer in Miami. percent based on reported figures [to change] expresses our confidence in Topshop also features the in-house designed Hope and Glory group inspired by 3.49 euros, or $5.13] and 6.8 percent at the group’s solidity and our legitimate British post-war nostalgia, eccentric country dressing, knickerbockers and nods towards constant exchange rates is practically concern to achieve the right balance.” the Edwardian dandy; the Memphis group of rodeo-inspired embellished pieces, with in line with the target announced in In fourth-quarter 2008, L’Oréal’s studded splatter-bleached denim jeans, HotPants, Mexican-style embroidering and cow- October,” continued Agon. revenues rose 4.7 percent to 4.63 bil- boy shirts, and the Nouveau Sport urban sportswear group with billowy tops, luxurious “We are tackling 2009 with realism, lion euros, or $6.11 billion at average silk harem pants and plastic space age platforms. confidence and resolve,” he added. exchange for the period, versus fourth- Green also hopes to showcase one or two young American designers in the store and “Realism because the economic en- quarter 2007. On a like-for-like basis, work with established designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg and the CFDA in the vironment will certainly still be dif- they fell 0.6 percent. selection process. While focused on SoHo, it’s not too soon for Green to be thinking about a North America rollout, though no additional units have been determined. “I don’t think we are going to be overly aggressive,” Green said. “Twelve to 15 flagships — that’s sort of my thinking. We are not thinking several hundred outlets….I like Miami. Los Angeles is OK. H&M Comps Slip 1 Percent Las Vegas would be good. I think we will go to Boston. Maybe we need another store in New York,” possibly Fifth Avenue. But no other real estate is set at this point. By Ellen Groves Canada, he added, “is on our radar.” Even with the economy tanking, real estate prices dropping, Green advised that “Even in a market like this, great locations are PARIS — Fast-fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz on Monday reported a 1 percent never cheap.” drop in comparable-store sales in January, but overall revenues for the month, A rollout depends on the performance of Topshop in SoHo, and Green is determined including new stores, were up 9 percent. to get the logistics right, he said. It’s been the downfall of several other British retail- The company did not break out actual sales figures. ers that have opened in the U.S. and withdrew not long after. With Topshop entering Although posting its best monthly percentage gain since July 2008, it is also the U.S., comparisons to other chains known for fashion at mainstream prices are in- the first negative figure for the month of January since at least 2006. However, evitable. Asked how Topshop differentiates from Target, Green replied, “I would say… the decline in same-store sales was the smallest drop in six months. fashion…. Is that horribly rude? We’re a leader in delivering content, delivering trend. The Swedish giant had 1,741 stores at the end of January, compared with We want to own our own content. We never do anything for money specifically. We want 1,524 at the end of January 2008. The latest tally includes 25 Monki and to make money, but we do it in our own way. Target is selling a different market. It’s not Weekday doors, under the Swedish Fabric Scandinavien business that H&M where our business is.” acquired last year. Still, Green considers all fashion retailers competition in one way or another. H&M H&M will continue that pace of expansion, with plans to open 225 stores and Forever 21 are strong competitors, though Topshop is priced about 20 percent worldwide this year — including its first in Beijing, and also a focus on the U.S., higher than H&M and 25 percent above Forever 21. Abercrombie & Fitch, American France, Italy, Spain, the U.K. and Germany — that will create 7,000 jobs. Eagle Outfitters, Banana Republic and Anthropologie are heavily on Topshop’s radar, H&M last week said Karl-Johan Persson, 34, grandson of H&M founder Erling Homer noted. Persson and son of its chairman of the board, Stefan Persson, will become its “We have a broad customer base, from 15- to 50-year-olds,” she said. “It’s an awful next chief executive officer. Persson will take the post on July 1, succeeding Rolf cliché, but fashion is ageless. We firmly believe that.” Eriksen, who will retire this year. 20 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

FASHION SCOOPS COCO ON FILM: A top model in the second he focused on helping up-and-coming designers JAPAN BOUND: The fast-fashion stakes in Tokyo are rising. row of a major show is an unlikely who can’t afford to have shows at the tents Forever 21 has secured a large property formerly housing a sighting. But mannequin fans need not during fashion week,” Bass explained. “He New Balance store right next to Hennes & Mauritz’s Harajuku fret: Coco Rocha’s audience status at sounded very knowledgeable and trustworthy, flagship. The store will be the California-based brand’s first in Carolina Herrera Monday morning was I had no reason to believe he was scamming Japan. The building is currently sporting a “Forever 21 Coming thanks to her new gig at E news. The me.” Bass, who was scheduled to show her fall Soon” sign soliciting career opportunities. red-tressed model is doing backstage collection at the West Side Loft on Wednesday interviews this season (along with gracing at 8 p.m., has managed to pull together some BACK IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Eager to get back into fashion, Matteo a few catwalks) for the television channel. extra funds from friends and family and will now Marzotto has bought Vionnet, the legendary French couture And she seems to be enjoying the other show at Mr. West Lounge at 559 West 22nd house, according to industry sources. Further details were side of the runway. “Last night I was in Street on the same date and time. Parrish was unavailable at press time and Marzotto could not be reached the front row of Miss Sixty. We kept trying also scheduled to present her line at West Side for comment. But the 42-year-old had been looking to make a to make the girls laugh,” she said. “It Loft. She will now show her line at Greenhouse fashion deal for the last year, ever since he left Valentino, where worked really well.” at 150 Varick Street today at 11 a.m. he was chairman for six years. Vionnet, which still holds a spot Coco Sodaliscious Clothing has opted to postpone its in fashion’s history thanks to a body-clinging bias cut invented SCAM ARTIST: Ron Smith, a man who bills Rocha show until a later date. All designers involved by Madeleine Vionnet in 1922, is a company whose turnaround himself as a business manager at a show and said they have been trying to reach Smith in has been tumultuous. Sophia Kokosalaki left in May 2007, just production and public relations firm Mischa hopes of getting their money back but he never a year into her creative director post, and was replaced by Marc called S30 PR, seems to be scamming Barton returned their calls. Audibet, who bid adieu a year ago, after only one season. Arnaud young designers yet again this season. at Miss Smith’s first scam was reported back in de Lummen, chief executive officer of the brand, said last June Smith was assigned to work on shows for Sixty. September 2007 when he pulled the plug on a

that a private investor had taken a “small” stake in the house designers Julianna Bass, Allison Parrish STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY group fashion show he organized at the Hudson and that he was looking for additional investors. and Cindy Renee Mathieu of Sodaliscious Hotel, disappointing participants who got word via Clothing. That was until he alerted the designers via text an e-mail that read, “Show is not happening. Best, Ron.” One IT’S A JUICY BIRD: The Juicy Couture girls have cooked up a new line message on Saturday morning saying, “After tirelessly going designer involved in that show in 2007 was Vengsarkar Budhu, they are showing to retailers at The Bowery Hotel this week, WWD over the details of the show and the other designers show and who gave Smith $5,500 to participate. He said he received has learned. Called simply “Bird,” the collection is expected to the fact that all funds were not paid in, we have to cancel the Smith’s e-mail that the show was canceled the day before it was include chic, rocker-inspired pieces that retail at a higher price point show.” Bass, who said she gave Smith $7,500 toward show supposed to take place. Budhu said he has never recovered the than Juicy Couture. According to the company, it’s for the girl who production costs, said Smith first called her after she was money and has been unable to reach Smith. Repeated calls to grew up wearing Juicy and is now looking for more sophisticated profiled in a new designers story in WWD last June. “He said Smith’s cell phone by WWD were not returned. apparel. The line, which is designed by Juicy co-founders Pam Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, is being kept under wraps for now, with Juicy officials declining comment.

eye on Hot SPotS

Milla Jovovich and Paz de la Huerta PHOTO BY ELIZABETH LIPMAN PHOTO BY

COLOR PURPLE: A horde of black-clad fashion folk took over the dining room of Soho House for Purple Magazine’s eye on travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. dinner on Sunday night, sponsored by Audemars Piguet. Hosted by Purple’s editor, Olivier Zahm, it drew a crowd of the magazine’s fans, including Patricia Arquette, Milla Jovovich, Lola Schnabel and Paz de la Huerta. Also in the mix were Mischa Barton and Jared Leto, who had a young model in tow and looked like he was auditioning to play Kurt Cobain. A newly single Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, as well as Pamela Love, Terry Richardson and Waris Ahluwalia rounded out the group, who dined on family-style dishes of roasted salmon, risotto and chicken. Artist Terrence Koh, wearing WWDeyeSCOOP mirrored leggings from Martin Margiela and a fake cigarette pin from the pop-up store that is in his art space, Asian Song Society, until Friday, said sales at that retail space, at least, were doing all right. “Nothing is that expensive,” he eye on relaxation said, “so I think that’s why people are buying.” Afterward, partygoers headed to Club Sandwich at rival club Norwood. Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in PEET EXPERIENCE: Longtime Thakoon fan Amanda Peet, who went to Columbia with his stylist Tina Chai, made front of the industry’s power players — inﬂuential, afﬂuent an appearance in his front row on Monday. The actress just wrapped a film withJohn Cusack, “2012,” directed by Roland Emmerich (“The Day After Tomorrow” and consumers — as they plan their weekend. “Independence Day”). “It’s about the end of the world,” she said, deadpan. Besides working on the film, which will come out in November, Peet has been hanging out with husband David Benioff and daughter Frances Bean. “She likes to put my shoes on,” said Peet, “and her Coming this spring dad’s, though they are about the same size as she is.” eye on dining

SONG CYCLE: Designer Brian Reyes’ after party is more like an afternoon tea since it’s from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. following his show on Thursday. But those who attend the fete, hosted by Poppy Delevigne and Lauren Remington Platt as well as Gilt Groupe, will be treated to a midday surprise: a performance by Niia. The young singer and pianist, a Massachusetts native who trained as a classical Want to be a part of the action? musician, was discovered by Wyclef Jean. She sings on his Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. single “Sweetest Girl (Dollar Bill)” and her mentor will be in the audience on Thursday to cheer his protégé along. Also there will be longtime Reyes fan Rachel Bilson.

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MISS SIXTY’S FANS: There was the typical explained Gigi Guerra, director of brand marketing CANINE FRIENDS: Roberto Cavalli is no stranger when it comes photographer mosh pit at the Miss Sixty Minka Kelly and Kristen Bell for Madewell. There’s a vintage feel to the to animals. He frequently likes to pepper his collections with show at the tents on Sunday night, where at the Miss Sixty show. Madewell for Shopbop collection, which consists an animal print here and there (or everywhere) and he and his this season’s front-row lineup included of ex-boyfriend and vintage flare jeans, both wife Eva share a home with a family of pets that includes two Mischa Barton, Kristen Bell, Minka Kelly priced $200; a station skirt, $130; switchyard dogs — a Bichon Frise and a St. Bernard — two monkeys, seven and an off-duty Coco Rocha. Barton, shorts, $130; a dispatch vest, $125; a workwear parrots, three cats, one iguana and more horses than the couple the first to be escorted from backstage, jacket, $138, and a boilersuit, $125. “Shopbop. cares to remember. This spring, however, the designer is giving arrived with girl-about-town Harley Viera com picks different brands that we want to align his canine friends a special treat with Roberto Cavalli Pets. The Newton. “She follows me around like a with — brands that embody our same spirit and clothing collection for dogs will include special velour tracksuits, lovesick puppy dog,” joked the actress sensibility — yet introduce us to new and fresh puffer jackets, a satin-trimmed bathrobe, silk printed shorts and of her plus-one for the evening, before demographics,” said Erin Crandall, head buyer for even some shearling jackets. There are also accessories like a adding, “Seriously, we’ve been best Shopbop.com. The collection is the site’s first full- quilted dog carrier bag, collars, leashes and a patent leather dog friends for a while now.” fledged design collaboration and Madewell’s first passport wallet. Cavalli’s designs maintain a tongue-in-cheek As for her plans for the duration of project with another distribution channel. quality. For instance, the jaguar print is actually made up of New York Fashion Week, Barton said, small paw prints upon closer inspection. “It’s about glamour, “I’m just here to be in the city and see GUITAR HERO: With “American Idol” alum Katherine fun and just a little dash of flash,” Eva Cavalli said of the line, friends.” And she was spotted a few McPhee seated front row at Brazilian designer which launches next month. She expects her own dogs to be hours later doing just that at Soho House, Carlos Miele’s show on Monday, music was in the sporting all of the pieces. “They’re the fit models, and I’ve tested where Olivier Zahm was hosting a dinner air. But the designer had another musical prize in the whole collection on them,” she said. “In this sense, they’re for Purple Magazine. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY store for guests, which included Carine Roitfeld, quite spoiled. Then again, you Eugenia Silva and Angie Everhart. Miele flew in know, being part of the DENIM LINK: Madewell wants to further its audience. The J. friend and musical phenom Max de Castro from São Paulo Cavalli family has its A look Crew-owned brand is collaborating with Shopbop on a limited to strum along to the recorded music he helped orchestrate. advantages.” from the edition premium denim collection under the Madewell for “Max is one of the most talented musicians from Brazil,” said Roberto Shopbop label. “The same girls shopping us are shopping Miele. “I have not met any anyone who is able to mix Brazilian Cavalli Pets Shopbop,” said Kin Ying Lee, design director for Madewell. “We rhythms with international music the way he does.” collection. see it as the go-to denim destination.” The collection starts McPhee, clearly intrigued by de Castro’s riffs, tried to focus selling Feb. 20 on Shopbop.com, in select Madewell stores and equally on the looks trotting down the runway. “I didn’t know on madewell1937.com. “We worked with Shopbop to create a [Carlos] before, but I got all these beautiful dresses to wear,” denim specific collection inspired by our workwear heritage,” she said. “It’s always fun going out and getting dressed up.”

A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND: It used to be diamonds, but these days it could be Spanx. Kate Winslet was wearing her Spanx High Falutin’ footless panty-hose shaper the night she nabbed two Golden Globes for best actress and best supporting actress. And it seems a good luck charm that works so well can’t be left behind. Representatives from the company have confirmed Winslet has requested a spread of shapers from their new Haute Contour collection to consider for the Academy Awards, as well. “You never know until they walk out on that red carpet,” a Spanx representative cautioned. “But we have a great relationship with Kate.” The shapewear company to the stars (Gwenyth Paltrow and Jessica Alba are fans too) has set up shop at the Bryant Park Hotel this week eye on Hot SPotS to preview the fall collections from its Spanx, Haute Contour by Spanx and Assets by Sara Blakely lines.

HE LEFT HIS HEART…: San Francisco is dear to the Maramotti family — it’s the first U.S. location of a Max Mara store, which debuted in 1988. On Friday, the company celebrated the relaunch of the 175 Post Street flagship after a remodel and doubling in size to 3,900 square feet. Fittingly, and in keeping with the Maramotti’s love of art, store walls in the bright, high-ceilinged space were decorated with pieces from photographer Paolo Simonazzi’s “Tra la Via Emilia e il West” retrospective. At first glance, the large color images appear as iconography from the American West — remote gas stations, rural diners and Harleys set eye on travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. against big skies and open landscapes — but they are actually of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy. The trompe l’oeil is Simonazzi’s reflection on the region’s Americanization, including as a hotbed for Italian rock ’n’ roll. Similarly, 21 years ago, Max Mara Fashion Group chairman Luigi Maramotti drew comparisons between Italy and San Francisco, where Italians immigrated in the mid-1800s during the Gold Rush and where Italian is still spoken in North Beach, the city’s Little Italy. “Mr. Maramotti thought the Max Mara brand made sense in WWDeyeSCOOP this market,” said U.S. marketing director Alisha Farmer. RENZO JETS IN: Even amid New York’s fashion week frenzy, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso found time to make a West eye on relaxation Coast cameo over the weekend. Rosso flew in from New York Friday evening to host his daughter Alessia’s 23rd birthday celebration at West Hollywood nightclub Guy’s, Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in where about 90 guests, including Rosso’s son Stefano, reveled late into the evening, sipping Champagne and front of the industry’s power players — inﬂuential, afﬂuent dancing to loud tunes spun by the club’s DJ. Alessia Rosso — who appeared to thoroughly enjoy the company of the evening’s hard-partying crowd — has lived in Los consumers — as they plan their weekend. Angeles for about two years, and is studying film and TV production, an experience that may soon come in handy as her father said he plans to launch a media outlet under the Diesel brand in the future. “I’m glad she’s here, I love California because it’s got a different energy and is Coming this spring so incredible,” Renzo Rosso said. “The most important eye on dining people are here, and you can meet them in a friendly way not possible in New York City.” Despite the California love, the elder Rosso didn’t linger in the Golden State, jetting back to New York the next evening for Diesel’s Black Gold show and the brand’s Fifth Avenue store opening today.

CROSS YOUR LEGS: The lines were long at the tents on Sunday night, but not just for the shows. Following the Want to be a part of the action? Miss Sixty show, only one out of about 20 Port-o-Johns Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. was open for business. Attendants on scene said there was an issue with the water supply, the same issue many in line were themselves wrestling with. Eventually the bathrooms were shut down completely.

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22 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009

Ready-to-Wear Report In a Galaxy Not So Fa r Away Architects And fAshion designers Are kindred spirits of sorts, so action as each runway model takes her turn. who better than those who build buildings to envision a futuristic new York fashion With the fashion crowd trooping off to Lincoln center for the shows starting next scene? year, sYsteMarchitects picked up on an idea that was quashed when the cultural WWd asked seven firms to brainstorm on what’s next for seventh Avenue, prefer- landmark was built. Architect philip Johnson’s proposal to complete the entry square ably more george Jetson than garmento. pentagram dreamed up a “horizontal sky- with a colonnade was nixed by his fellow designers. sYsteMarchitects modernized scraper” with rooftop runwaylike structures connecting buildings so that “the fashion the concept by suggesting a new colonnade would house fashion week’s main runway, world gets a home where it deserves one; far above the street, high in the clouds.” with the street as a muted backdrop. By chance, tsao & Mckown, diane Lewis Architects nYc and hok sport were An aside worth noting for designers in the throes of fashion week deadlines — with more down-to-earth with their respective approaches. each imagined new York few exceptions, the architects proved they can push the envelope with the best of fashion Week with a cinematic presence that allows passersby to catch some of the them. — Rosemary Feitelberg

HOK Sport’s “knitted” fashion theater with a spiraling runway and capacity for 5,000 people would be ideally located at Seventh Avenue and 38th Street to redefine the fashion district.

SYSTEMarchitects’ Lincoln Square setup borrows from Philip Johnson’s initial, but unused, plan for a colonnade on the site. The firm’s more public approach seems to be in line with Johnson’s fondness for bringing the outdoors in.

Recalling how Manhattan’s Lower East Side once was a bazaar for the garment center, Pentagram’s horizontal skyscraper would consist of six “sideways towers” that would stitch the district back together. Designs such as stripes or stocking mesh would make them identifiable, even from a satellite view. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 23 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report For more futuristic views of New York’s garment center, see WWD.com.

ET AL, ETC. linked Lincoln Center’s namesake with Diane Lewis Architects NYC whipped up a Runway Street and Fashion Robert Moses, who oversaw urban renewal projects Superblock where West 41st Street between Sixth Avenue and Broadway that led to the creation of New York’s cultural center. would be a runway lined with benches.

Tsa o & McKown proposed flanking Lincoln Center’s plaza with jumbo simulcast video screens, to project the indoor events out into the city.

Olson Sundberg Kundig Allen’s idea takes rolling racks to new heights, suspending them in glass elevatorlike structures that also show off the goods or a designer at work. The design includes a trailer hitch and foldable wheels for mobile advertising. 24 WWD, tuesDay, february 17, 2009

Textile & Trade Report

Shopping Première Vision.

Embroideries were a key trend. Paris Fabric Shows Get Squeezed By Katya Foreman and Robert Murphy designer Walter Van Beirendonck. “There’s nothing new, which is a drag, as that was already the case for fall,” said PARIS — Bad weather, a struggling global economy and scheduling that bumped up Jay Ahr’s Jonathan Riss, who disclosed he has just acquired a 300-year-old embroi- against the beginning of New York Fashion Week cast a pall on the Première Vision dery firm based in Beijing. “We’ll be focusing on accessories for next spring.” and Texworld fabric fairs here last week. Scandinavian designer Christina Ribel was frustrated that more effort hadn’t been Visitors attending Première Vision, which wrapped up its four-day run on Friday, made to flag eco-friendly fabrics. were generally disappointed to find a lack of innovative, cutting-edge textiles for “It’s surprising as even the car industry is onto that,” she said. spring. Instead, designers and buyers said they found the dismal economic conditions Closed airports due to extreme weather conditions affected traffic on the opening had prompted mills to play it safe. day, but more significantly, the event’s new earlier positioning, falling the same week “It’s rather a boring season, but there’s lots of cloqué, which is very new,” said as New York Fashion Week’s kickoff, added further turbulence to mills already nego- tiating rough waters. “The timing of the show did not help and I heard that for September it’s going to be the same issue,” said Jacki Deena Tutelman-Bender, director of sales for Ratti USA. “It’s going to hurt the Americans.” The mill showcased a colorful range of digitally printed couture fabrics, from overprinted to mottled silks. “It’s a disaster,” said Adrian Wildhaber, head designer at Weisbrod Zürrer. “We’ve lost lots of U.S. clients who have fashion week next week. It’s also very early for the Chinese and Japanese.” Key trends included a shift to cleaner, feminine fabrics, with a plethora of light and sheer textiles, as well as textured designs. The season’s ubiquitous flower story is still strong, notably in smudged prints. Important colors included effervescent pastels and brights, especially blues, oranges and greens. Several designers found it a confused season, however. “There’s not a singular line,” said Floriana Zupardo, a fabric buyer for Prada Red Line, who lauded the ranges of Japanese mills Kuroki, Kurabo and Takihyo. Sam Lambert, a designer for London’s Ozwald Boateng, approved the fair’s range of men’s suiting fabrics, notably a waterproof wool by Lometex. Lambert’s budget was up 10 percent. “It’s an exciting time for men’s fabrics, though I’m picking things with a traditional touch,” he said. Bestsellers at Kuroki included a cotton chino fabric with subtle tonal shifts on the weft and the warp, as well as a double-weave denim, featuring a white background with blue, black or brown weaves in front. “You’ll see a lot of the major brands selling that next season,” said a mill spokesman. Libby Gibsome, a researcher for London-based textiles consul- tancy Hodgesellers, noted lots of “humble” creased and worn fabrics with sand-washed and stonewashed finishes. “Colors split into two stories: pure, eco-looking shades opposite strong statement colors such as peacock reds and peacock turquois- es,” she said. Though most designers claimed budgets were stable, mills spoke of customers squeezing prices. “Mills are very conscious of pricing and seem to want to make things work,” said Paula Hian, a Philadelphia-based designer who only works with European mills. However, several visitors who were mainly trend-scouting at the event confessed they were prioritizing Asian mills showing at Texworld. “Our strategy is to buy less expensive fabrics,” said a designer for French supermarket Casino, who requested anonymity. “We’re more after Asian than European.” Hannah Ward, a designer for Jayroma, a supplier to British retail giants Next and Debenhams, said, “It’s price at the end of the day.” Couture fabrics continue to flourish, with business at Jakob Schlaepfer still “very strong,” said a spokeswoman. The mill expects to see some of its embroidered fabrics, notably featuring “big stones” and sequins, surface in some New York collections, such as Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein. “It’s the first time we’ve worked with them in a long time,” she said. “Embroidery is in, but not in a flashy way. Even with stones, the WWD, tuesDay, february 17, 2009 25 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report

Prints were important at Première Vision.

colors are more tone-on-tone.” “We have more clients,” said Keisuke Mitsui of Japan’s Toko Shoji Co. “But busi- Texworld closed its four-day run on Thursday. Fewer buyers attended as firms ness is stable so far. What the customer wants is high quality, not high quantity. They around the world cut expenses. Organizers said 13,733 buyers visited this year com- are asking for more flexibility in order to deal with the economy.” pared with 16,340 last year. The steepest declines by region were the Americas, with Buyers said they wanted sophisticated embroideries and colorful fabrics to spark a 28 percent drop, and Asia, with a decrease of 35 percent. business. Price was a primary motivator, with many buyers saying they were asking Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France, which organizes the show, their regular suppliers to cut their prices to help them weather current turmoil. said textile shows in general have felt a 15 to 20 percent decline in attendance since “This show is really about price,” said Deborah Lloyd, co-president and creative the beginning of the year. director of Kate Spade, who was shopping for fabrics to use in the New York firm’s “In this context, we didn’t do too bad,” he said. upcoming women’s ready-to-wear line. “We need flexibility [in this climate]. We want As with P V, Texworld had to contend with bad weather that closed Paris airports to be able to order small quantities at good prices. But creativity has to come first.” Monday and Tuesday. Stefano Pierattini, technical manager at Smart Yard, an Italian firm that sources With business tanking, buyers said finding special and inexpensive fabrics moti- fabrics for sportswear, said, “Business is not very good. But it was a good year for us vated their visit to the fair, which featured 660 exhibitors from 40 countries. Texworld, because technical fabrics are doing fine. Price is the most important issue.” which convened in the halls at Le Bourget just north of Paris, featured more inex- Sue O’Brien, fabric buyer for Karen Millen in the U.K., said, “We are asking for pensive fabrics from mills from China to South Korea. In the face of quicker fashion more flexibility from our vendors. We are asking for price cuts from everybody. At this cycles and more demanding customers, mills at Texworld emphasized quality and fair, we are looking for alternatives.”

SHIRTINGS aReN’T juST foR SHIRTS aNymoRe! Doing business at Texworld. We at Philips-Boyne Corporation have understood this concept for over 60 years.

We inventory over 3 million yards of the highest quality textiles We want to be able to order small in the New York area. quantities“ at good prices. But creativity Imported 100% cotton; premium long staple, Egyptian has to come first. • Solid broadcloths, Superba®, Corona®, Ultimo® ” — Deborah Lloyd, Kate Spade • Oxfords • Pinpoints For more on textile fairs, see WWD.com. • Tone on Tones, Dobbies, Satin Stripes, Jacquards • Piques • Eyelets invention, and investing in fabric research. • Yarn-dyed Stripes & Plaids With price a greater issue than ever, many buyers said they were • Seersuckers focusing on digging out inexpensive fabrics at Texworld while cut- • Batiste ting back at vendors that show at P V. Buyers said the economy was sure to deal another blow to Europe’s fabric firms, already under • Voile pressure from inexpensive foreign competition. • Gauze Business at Texworld was subdued. Exhibitors reported slow traf- • Swiss Dot fic, especially from the U.K. and the U.S. • Gingham “I think that we’re seeing fewer people traveling now,” said Ayush Murarka, who oversees Ventures, an Indian mill specializing in em- Stretch; Solids, Yarn-dyed Stripes & Piques broideries. “It means that I will be spending more time on the road taking the collection to show clients.” Low Minimums! Exhibitors and buyers emphasized the importance of flexibility to deal with economic uncertainty. Many exhibitors said they were reducing their minimum order amount and that they were scaling Philips-Boyne Corp.® back prices in an effort to spark business. Even if some exhibitors 135 Rome Street Farmingdale, NY 11735 said they had increased the number of clients so far this year thanks Tel: 631.755.1230 • 1.800.292.2830 • Fax: 631.755.1259 to firms looking for more inexpensive fabrics, most said that hadn’t www.philipsboyne.com • [email protected] translated into an increase in business. 26 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2009 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 212.630.3963 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

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Vivienne Tam Sales Manager Int’l designer seeks Sales Mgr. w/min 5 Accessories Company seeks yrs. exp. Must have est’d relationships FOR SALE w/key retailers. Int’l exp. a+. Send re- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Contents of Apparel Manufacturer’s Production Manager Dir. Fine Jewelry & Accessories sume w/c letter to: No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Warehouse for sale. Cutting, shipping, Apparel & Footwear The Venetian/Palazzo Resort locat- [email protected] Premium Women’s & Men’s Apparel Call CLOTHES-OUT: sample room & office equipment. Manage staff to meet company goals & ed in Las Vegas, NV. seeks exp’d. Brand seeks industry leading (937) 898-2975 Call: 631-231-7876 obj. Daily comm w/factories for progress of samples, Manage & negotiate costs buyer to purchase designer jewelry, account executives to support w/factories. WM/Target experience pre- fashion jewelry, watches & designer growth in top-tier Mens & Women’s ferred. Please send resumes & salary specialty retailers in the U.S. req to: [email protected] accessories. 5yrs min. exp. buying jewelry. Minimum five years experience Spaces BOOKKEEPER Sr Buyer - Retail selling premium apparel with PATTERN/SAMPLES Experienced Gmt Industry. Bank Seeking an exp’d. Sr. Buyer of ap- established boutique buyers in the Garment center location. Professional Recs, Maint bank balances, A/P, RA’s, Northwest M/W, Midwest M/W, /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. other bookkeeping duties. Proficient parel to develop, select & purchase Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 excel/word. Assist Controller. Benefits. men’s & women’s clothing, child- and Southeast M regions. Apply to [email protected] ren’s apparel, logo accessories & For immediate consideration, COMMERCIAL Patterns/Samples/Production other related products. 3-5yrs min. Account Executive please forward an updated resume Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. 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Track prod & delivery Experienced sales person Fashion jewelry manufacturer seeks status, send tech packs to factories, track responsible for launching Showrooms & Lofts managing director for factory opera- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, & follow up on samples, etc. Maintain web-based registration, vid- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS tions and business development. weekly shipping status reports & related ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PRODUCTIONS •Minimum 10 years experience in the resp.Wal-Mart/ Target Exp a plus. NYC based Women’s woven/knit co. eo & ecommerce products ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Full service shop to the trade. jewelry industry. Please send resume & salary req to: seeks sales person to bring in new cus- for the wholesale apparel, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. •Good working knowledge of the pro- [email protected] tomer & take over est’d customer. duction process of jewelry products w/min. 5 yrs exp. Email resume to: accessory & gift markets. (e.g. casting, plating, etc.) [email protected] No cap on earnings. Apply •Have experience/relationships with SPORTSWEAR TECH at: www.retailregistry.com US retailers for private label. Min 2 year experience for NJ based co. •Requires relocation to Qingdao, Chi- Please fax resume to: na. 3-4 weeks vacation will be provid- 201-867-7789 KEY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ed for leisure travel. Must have private label exp. in We provide a great compensation Missy/Large Sz Blouses, must have TOP NOTCH SALES package for the right candidate includ- VIGOSS current relationship w/ K-Mart, Sears, Missy better sweater co. seeks aggressive ing living expenses in China. Please Professional chargeback for Dept. JC Penney, Shopko, Catherine, etc. & highly motivated ind. w/dept/chain email resumes with cover letter to: Stores. Pl fax resume to (212) 764-6688 Salary/Comm + benefits.Call: Bruce @ stores following. 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