Mihriban Kalkanci Different Approaches in Bathrobe Manufacturing: New Concept Pestemal Bathrobes, an Irreplaceable Element of Hammam Culture DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.1318

Pamukkale University, Abstract Denizli Vocational School of Technical Sciences, In the present study, bathrobes manufactured from terry towel fabric in the scope of home Denizli, Turkey textile and new trend bathrobes made from pestemal with a 650-year long history were com- E-mail: [email protected] pared in terms of their fabric utilization efficiency in the garment manufacturing process. Terry towel fabric bathrobes have a significant market share in home textile. The present study aimed to investigate and compare the fabric utilisation efficiency of pestemal bathro- bes and terry towel fabric bathrobes in pattern and spread cutting processes. The effect of the properties of towel fabric and the pestemal bathrobe on the fabric cutting process in garment manufacturing was investigated. Within the scope of this study, marker plans for 3 different selected bathrobe models were prepared by taking the widths of terry towel fabric and pestemal fabrics into consideration. As a result of the investigations, ideal fabric widths of coiled fabric for , and hooded bathrobe models for the cutting process were determined as 152, 163 and 158 cm, respectively. For pestemal bathrobes, an ideal spreading plan was suggested according to the weaving method reported. In the light of these findings, relevant suggestions concerning fabric utility efficiency were drawn for manufacturers concerning garment manufacturing processes using both fabric types. Key words: pestemal, newly designed bathrobes, towel fabric, fabric efficiency, terry woven fabrics, fabric utilisation ratio, productivity.

Introduction Buldan counties. The fame of these fab- rics also reached royal families and be- Home textile products, as the core of the came ceremonial clothes, , , textile and garment manufacturing in- , and the bridals of sultans’ fami- dustry, are the ones preferred in terms of lies [3-4]. aesthetic and functional aspects. Among home textile products, towel and towel Bathrobes manufactured from pestemal fabrics are the prominent products used in Turkish bath culture have substituted for drying purposes. On the other hand, for those made out of traditional tow- pestemals have advantages over towel el fabrics; and the demand for pestemal fabrics, such as a shorter drying peri- bathrobes has been increasing day by od and their light weight, as new trend day. The “pestemal” (pesh-te-mahl) was products. Pestemals, a traditional product a large towel fringed at both ends and known for centuries, have been further wrapped around the torso, from below developed and demand for these products the armpits to about mid-thigh, worn tra- has increased. ditionally as a woman made her way to a “kurna” or marble basin. The pestemal In the world home textile market, the would be striped or checked, a colored largest commercial share belongs to the mixture of and , or pure cotton, towel and bathrobe trade – 25%. In 2015, or even pure silk [5]. the share of towel and bathrobe consti- tuted 40% of the overall home textile ex- Wasiak & Snycerski’s investigation con- port of Turkey [1]. Whereas the largest cerned the influence of the type of raw exporter was China, who exported half material, fabric structure, as well as the of the total world towels and bathrobes, water absorption ability and handle of followed by Pakistan, India and Turkey, terry woven fabrics. The aim of the study respectively [2]. The manufacturing of was to find out how the level of two usa- regional hand woven products in Deniz- bility features depends on the kind of raw li City, the most concentrated towel and material as well as on the woven fabric’s bathrobe manufacturing area in Turkey, structure and finish [7]. has centuries-long history. Of hand wo- ven fabrics in the past, the most popular Considering their end uses, towels should were the and fabrics of garments display certain properties such as appro- as worn by the warriors in the Troy mov- priate hydrophility, softness, and dimen- ie, woven products of Kızılcabölük and sional variation (dV), of which hydrophil-

90 Kalkanci M. Different Approaches in Bathrobe Manufacturing: New Concept Pestemal Bathrobes, an Irreplaceable Element of Hammam Culture. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018; 26, 4(130): 90-96. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.1318 The most remarkable properties of traditional pestemals are that they are handwoven and their original tufts are specific to fabric manufactured in rectangular pieces. As is illustrated in Figure 1, the original handmade tufts of pestemal are positioned at the hem lines and sleeve hems of bathrobes. Due to this necessity, it is not possible to maintain meters of woven fabric in a mass manufacturing form. There are wide varieties of pestemal manufactured in a rectangular shape, starting from a width of 60 cm. Pestemals can be found available in widths of 80, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110 and 120 cm and in lengths of 100, 110, 140, 150, 160, 170 and 200 cm. ity is the most important quality param- eter. Since towels are frequently washed for hygiene, dimensional variation after washing is also an important property [8].

In one experimental study, the relation- ship between towel performance (hy- drophility and dimensional variation properties) and selected physical & pro- duction parameters such as pile height, aerial density, type of softener etc. was obtained. For this purpose, the degrees of hydrophility and dimensional varia- tion after washing selected towel sam- ples were tested according to the relevant standards, and the results obtained were analysed [9].

Pestemal is a cloth used in traditional outerwear for women in Buldan. It is worn as a . The width of the peste- mal is the garment’s length. The cloth’s wide sides are the waistline and hemline of the garment.Figure Today 1. the Pestemal use of pestemal bathrobe examples as traditional women’s wear is decreas- Figure 1. Pestemal bathrobe examples. ing. However,Pestemal some old women is stillmanufactured wear in different varieties with or without colour using different the pestemal [10]. The patterns of woven clothes could also useful because of reasons such as being be in different varieties such as striped, 100% cotton, quick drying, light weight, The pestemalingredient is also used as Turkishrecipes bath suchbordered as and 100 jacquard% cotton,motifs etc. Pestesilk,- breathable,bamboo, comfortable poly-co andtton, healthy bamboo-cotton blends, cloth. Both are rectangular and of mals from the Buldan and Kızılcabölük when evaluated in terms of the clothing plain weave,linen with cottonor linen-cotton or silk threads territoriesblends. are referred due to their pat- comfort features mentioned. used as the warp and weft. Some prop- terns and colors as “Herringbone Peste- erties of pestemal are as follows: width mal”, “Sea Pestemal”, “Saraylı Peste- 81.73±1.33The cm, length patterns 130.79±1.64 of cm,woven clothes could also be in different varieties such as striped, bordered mal”, “Hammam Pestemal (Şekerci)”, a) number of warps 62.96±0.98/5 cm, num- “Flume Pestemal”, “Rainbow Pestemal”, ber of weftsand 73.69±1.32/5 jacquard cm, motifs weight andetc. “Karagöbek Pestem Pestemalals from (This is the called Buldan and Kızılcabölük territories are referred per square meter 138.41±6.04 g/m2, and “Karagöbek” because when the cloth is thickness 0.64±0.02due to mm their [11]. patternswrapped and around colors the waist, as the “ blackHerringbone or Pestemal”, “Sea Pestemal”, “Saraylı dark stripe on the fabric coincides right The most remarkablePestemal properties”, “ Haof tradimmam- at the Pestemal belly level.)” ( Figure(Şekerci) 2). They”, are “Flume Pestemal”, “Rainbow Pestemal”, and tional pestemals are that they are hand- usually manufactured in natural, blue, woven and their original tufts are specif- green, yellow, orange, dark blue, red, b) ic to fabric“ manufacturedKaragöbek in rectangular Pestemal purple (This and beige is called colours. “Karagöbek” because when the cloth is wrapped around pieces. As is illustrated in Figure 1, the original handmadethe waist, tufts of thepestemal black are orOn darkthe other stripe hand, towel on fabricsthe fabricare ex- coincides right at the belly level.)” (Figure 2). positioned at the hem lines and sleeve pected to display certain performance hems of bathrobes.They areDue tousually this necessi manufactured- characteristics owing in natural,to their usage, blue, green, yellow, orange, dark blue, red, purple ty, it is not possible to maintain meters namely softness, hydrophility, warp and of woven fabric in a mass manufacturing weft tensile strengths, and colour sensi- form. Thereand are widebeige varieties colou of pesters.- tivity against sea water, sweat, washing mal manufactured in a rectangular shape, and friction [6]. starting from a width of 60 cm. Peste- c) mals can be found available in widths of The drying properties of the fabrics are 80, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110 and 120 cm and also important in order to remove ab- in lengths of 100, 110, 140, 150, 160, 170 sorbed liquid from the body in a short and 200 cm. time and to provide comfort. The rate of drying, or in other words, the drying Pestemal is manufactured in different time, which determines the rate at which varieties with or without colour using sweat or moisture in the fabric evaporates different ingredient recipes such as 100% from it, determines the properties of the 3 cotton, silk, bamboo, poly-cotton, bam- fabric, such as the moisture content, sur- boo-cotton blends, linen or linen-cotton face energy, and relative humidity of the Figure 2. Examples of a)“Şekerci Pestemal”, blends. air [12-14]. Pestemal bathrobes are very b)“Stripped Pestemal”, c)“Sea Pestemal”.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 4(130) Figure 2. Examples of a).“Şekerci Pestemal”, b.)“Stripped91 Pestemal”, c.)“Sea Pestemal” FigureFigure 2.2. ExamplesExamples of a).“Şekerci Pestemal”, b.)““StrippedStripped PestemalPestemal”,”, c.)c.)““SeaSea PestemalPestemal””

OnOn thethe otherother hand,hand, toweltowel fabrics are expected to displaydisplay certaincertain performanceperformance characteristicscharacteristics owingowing toto theirtheir usageusage ,, namelynamely softness, hydrophility, warpwarp andand weftweft tensiletensile strengths,strengths, andand coloucolourr sensitivitysensitivity againstagainst sea water, sweat, washing andand frictionfriction [6].[6]. TheThe dryingdrying propertiesproperties of the fabrics are also important inin orderorder toto removeremove absorbedabsorbed liquidliquid fromfrom thethe bodybody inin aa shortshort time and to provide comfort .. TheThe raterate ofof drying,drying, oror inin otherother words,words, thethe dryingdrying time,time, whichwhich determines the rate at which sweatsweat oror moisturemoisture inin thethe fabricfabric evaporatesevaporates fromfrom itit,, determinesdetermines thethe propertiesproperties of the fabric, suchsuch asas thethe moisturemoisture content,content, surfacesurface energy,energy, andand relativerelative humidityhumidity of the air [12-14]. Pestemal bathrobesbathrobes areare veryvery usefuluseful becausebecause ofof reasonsreasons suchsuch asas beingbeing 100% cotton, quick drying, lightlight weight,weight, breathable,breathable, comfortablecomfortable andand healthy when evaluated in terms of the clothing comfort features mentioned. healthy when evaluated in terms of the clothing comfort features mentioned. In the present study, it was aimed to determine the optimum fabric width for the In the present study, it was aimed to determine the optimum fabric width for the manufacturing process of modern bathrobes made from traditional pestemal. To that end, the manufacturing process of modern bathrobes made from traditional pestemal. To that end, the fabric utilisation efficiency rates of pestemals manufactured in the market in standard widths fabric utilisation efficiency rates of pestemals manufactured in the market in standard widths were investigated for the three most commonly traded bathrobe models; and it was attempted were investigated for the three most commonly traded bathrobe models; and it was attempted to estimate the optimum pestemal size for minimum fabric wastage. The material of the to estimate the optimum pestemal size for minimum fabric wastage. The material of the present study comprised 3 distinct bathrobe models manufactured from regional hand present study comprised 3 distinct bathrobe models manufactured from regional hand wowen pestemals in Buldan and Kızılcabölük counties of Denizli City, and bathrobes of the wowen pestemals in Buldan and Kızılcabölük counties of Denizli City, and bathrobes of the same model but made out of terry towel fabrics, selected in order to compare fabric same model but made out of terry towel fabrics, selected in order to compare fabric utilisation efficiency of pestemal, in which a computer-aided pattern preparation system utilisation efficiency of pestemal, in which a computer-aided pattern preparation system 4 4

manufacturing companies and the rele- Measures /Sizes S M L

A Length from back-middle 110 110 110 vant manufacturing companies was used. B Closed chest 53 57 61

C Shoulder width 12,5 13 13,5 Measures /Sizes S M L D Shoulder + arms’ lengthMeasuresA Length /Sizes from68 back -middle71 S 11073 M 110 L 110 Models E Arms’ lengthA LengthB fromClosed back chest55,5-middle 58 110 59,553 110 57 11061 Measures /Sizes S M L F Armhole B ClosedC chestShoulder width27 28 53 12,529 57 13 6113,5 A Length from back-middle 110 110 110 Within the scope of the present study, C ShoulderD Shoulder width + arms’ length 12,5 68 13 71 13,573 G B Closed chest 16,5 17,5 53 18,557 61 D ShoulderE Arms’ + arms’ length length 68 55,5 71 58 7359,5 three different bathrobe models in most Distance fromC middleShoulder of width 12,5 13 13,5 H E Arms’F lengthArmhole 44 45 55,5 2746 58 28 59,529 shoulder to beltD ShoulderG Wristband + arms’ length 68 16,5 71 17,5 7318,5 F Armhole 27 28 29 demand, whose technical drawings and I length/widthE Arms’ lengthDistance from160/5 middle 170/5 of 55,5 180/558 59,5 G WristbandH 16,5 44 17,5 45 18,546 F Armholeshoulder to belt 27 28 29 dimensions (for S, M and L sizes) are J Packet width/lengthDistance from middle20/21 of 20/21 20/21 GH WristbandI Belt length/width 16,544 160/517,5 45170/5 18,546180/5 K Off skirt shoulderJ Packet to belt width/length 65 70 20/2175 20/21 20/21 Distance from middle of exhibited in Figures 3-5, were evaluated. L Moulding widthHI Belt Klength/width Off skirt 5 5 160/544 655 170/5 45 70 180/546 75 shoulder to belt J PacketL width/lengthMoulding width 20/21 5 20/21 5 20/215 I Belt length/width 160/5 170/5 180/5 K Off skirt 65 70 75 J Packet width/length 20/21 20/21 20/21 L Moulding width 5 5 5 FigureK 3.Off Kimono skirt bathrobe model65 70 75 Method L Moulding widthFigure 3. Kimono5 bathrobe 5 model5

The research was conducted in two stag- Figure 3. Kimono bathrobe model es and respective results evaluated. Figure 3. Kimono bathrobe model

Figure 3. Kimono bathrobe model and measures. Widths of terry towel fabric

and pestemal

Dimensions / Sizes S M L A Back length 110 110 110 The most appropriate fabric widths were Dimensions / SizesB Closed chestS M 53L 57 61 Back length C Shoulder 110width 110 12,5110 13 13,5 investigated for the same model and size A DimensionsD Shoulder / Sizes + Arms’ length S 68 M 71 L 73 B Closed chestA BackE lengthArms’ length53 57 110 55,561 110 58 11059,5 Dimensions / Sizes S M L characteristics of bathrobes manufactured C Shoulder widthB ClosedF chestArm hole12,5 13 53 13,527 57 28 61 29 A Back length 110 110 110 D Shoulder + CArms’ Shoulder lengthG Wristband width 68 71 12,5 16,573 13 17,5 13,518,5 from terry towel fabric and pestemal in B Closed chestDistance from Shoulder to53 57 61 E Arms’ lengthD ShoulderH + Arms’55,5 length 58 68 59,544 71 45 73 46 C Shoulderbelt width 12,5 13 13,5 order to determine their individual effi- E Arms’ length 55,5 58 59,5 F Arm hole D ShoulderI Belt + Arms’ length/width27 length 28 68 160/529 71 170/5 73180/5 F Arm hole 27 28 29 G Wristband E Arms’J lengthPocket en/boy16,5 17,555,5 20/2118,5 58 20/21 59,520/21 ciencies in the fabric spreading and cut- G WristbandK Off skirt 16,5 65 17,5 70 18,575 Distance fromF ShoulderArm hole to 27 28 29 H Distance from Shoulder44 to 45 46 ting processes. The widths of terry towel belt GH Wristband 16,544 17,545 18,546 belt Belt length/widthDistance fromFigure Shoulder160/5 4. Shawl to170/5 -collar 180/5 bathrobe model fabric and pestemal were compared. To I HI Belt length/width 160/544 170/545 180/546 belt J Pocket en/boyJ Pocket en/boy 20/21 20/2120/21 20/21 20/21 20/21 I Belt length/width 160/5 170/5 180/5 that end, first the widths of hand woven K Off skirt K Off skirt 65 70 65 75 70 75 J Pocket en/boy 20/21 20/21 20/21 and machine-made pestemals manufac- K Off skirt 65 70 75

Figure 4. ShawlFigure-collar 4. Shawl bathrobe-collar model bathrobe model tured in Buldan and Kızılcabölük Coun-

Figure 4. Shawl-collar bathrobe model ties, Turkey were established by arrang-�

ing interviews with pestemal manufac-

turers. In order to determine the widths of

Figure 4. Shawl-collar bathrobe model and measures. terry towel fabrics, manufacturers from

Denizli weaving industry, Turkey were

interviewed.Measures / Sizes At the stageS ofM determiningL A Back length 110 110 110

appropriateB Closed chest fabric width,53 57necessary 61 siz- Measures / Sizes S M L C Shoulder width 12,5 13 13,5 esD forShoulder terry + Arms’ towel length fabric68 bathrobes71 73 were A Back length 110 110 110 B Closed chest 53 57 61 E Arms’ length 55,5 58 59,5 plannedF Arm hole in S, M and27 L as28 1-1-129 assort- C Shoulder width 12,5 13 13,5 G Wristband 16,5 17,5 18,5 D Shoulder + Arms’ length 68 71 73 ment amounts for cutting plans. In terms Distance from shoulder H 44 45 46 E Arms’ length 55,5 58 59,5 of manufacturingto belt pestemal bathrobes, F Arm hole 27 28 29 I Belt length/width 160/5 170/5 180/5 G Wristband 16,5 17,5 18,5 theJ cuttingPocket width/length process was20/21 planned20/21 20/21 for each Distance from shoulder K Off skirt 65 70 75 H 44 45 46 to belt modelL Moulding for widtha single size5 without5 73an assort- Pocket length from I Belt length/width 160/5 170/5 180/5 mentM in the case of usage57 57of pestemales57 J Pocket width/length 20/21 20/21 20/21 shoulder K Off skirt 65 70 75 inN originalHood length dimensions32,5 (on33 the33,5 basis of L Moulding width 5 5 73 O width 29,5 30 30,5 Pocket length from the fact that one classic bathrobe is made M 57 57 57 shoulder out of 2 pestemales). N Hood length 32,5 33 33,5 O Hood width 29,5 30 30,5 Alternative pattern-marker production of pestemal fabrics Figure 5. Hooded bathrobe model Figure 5. Hooded bathrobe model and measures. An alternativem pattern layout plan on

spread fabric for pestemal bathrobes and the respective efficiency were investigat- Figure 5. Hooded bathrobeIn the model present study, it was aimed to de- of the present study comprised 3 distinct termine mthe optimum fabric width for the bathrobe models manufactured from re- ed in order to overcome difficulty caused by the position of original tufts on the manufacturing process of modern bath- gional hand wowen pestemals in Buldan made from traditional pestemal. To and Kızılcabölük counties of Denizli hemline and sleeve hem. that end, the fabric utilisation efficiency City, Turkey and bathrobes of the same rates of pestemals manufactured in the model but made out of terry towel fabrics, Results and discussion market in standard widths were investi- selected in order to compare fabric util- gated for the three most commonly traded isation efficiency of pestemal, in which Widths of terry towel fabric bathrobe models; and it was attempted to a computer-aided pattern preparation and pestemal estimate the optimum pestemal size for system (KonsanCAD, Turkey) employed On the basis of information gathered minimum fabric wastage. The material in model-pattern departments of garment through interviews conducted with the

92 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 4(130)

exhibitsexhibits thethe efficienciesefficiencies ofof kimono,kimono, shawlshawl collarcollar andand hoodedhooded bathrobebathrobe modelmodelss mademade outout ofof terryterry towel towel fabric fabric with with respect respect to to fabric fabric widths widths in in the the graph. graph. TableTable 1 1. .Fabric Fabric efficiency efficiency of of terry terry towel towel fabric fabric bathrobe bathrobe during during marker marker making making process process, ,and and unit unit quantities quantities KimonoKimono B Bathrobeathrobe ShawlShawl C Collarollar B Bathrobeathrobe HoodedHooded B Bathrobeathrobe FabricFabric Witdh Witdh UnitUnit Quantities Quantities UnitUnit Q Quantitiesuantities UnitUnit quantities quantities EfficiencyEfficiency EffıcEffıciencyiency EffıciencyEffıciency (cm)(cm) ( (Unit Unit Fabric Fabric ( (U Unitnit Fabric Fabric ( (Unit Unit Fabric Fabric (%)(%) (%)(%) (%)(%) UUtilizationtilization) )(cm) (cm) UtilizationUtilization) )(cm) (cm) UtilizationUtilization) )(cm) (cm) 150150 231231 86,4086,40 230230 87,3087,30 250250 87,8087,80 151151 226226 87,7087,70 237237 87,5087,50 249249 87,4087,40 152152 223223 88,6088,60 235235 87,9087,90 247247 87,7087,70 153153 222222 88,1088,10 234234 87,6087,60 244244 88,4088,40 154154 221221 87,3087,30 233233 87,5087,50 243243 88,2088,20 155155 222222 87,6087,60 231231 87,8087,80 242242 87,9087,90 156156 219219 86,8086,80 229229 87,7087,70 237237 88,8088,80 157157 215215 86,8086,80 228228 87,6087,60 236236 88,7088,70 158158 213213 87,8087,80 227227 87,5087,50 234234 89,0089,00 159159 212212 88,4088,40 224224 88,2088,20 233233 88,9088,90 160160 211211 87,9087,90 223223 87,1087,10 232232 88,5088,50 161161 210210 87,8087,80 222222 87,9087,90 231231 88,1088,10 162162 209209 87,4087,40 220220 87,6087,60 230230 88,3088,30 163163 208208 87,3087,30 219219 88,5088,50 228228 88,8088,80 164164 207207 87,5087,50 217217 87,8087,80 227227 87,9087,90 165165 206206 87,7087,70 215215 88,3088,30 226226 88,3088,30 166166 204204 87,1087,10 214214 87,3087,30 225225 88,2088,20 167167 203203 88,3088,30 213213 87,9087,90 224224 88,3088,30 168168 202202 87,9087,90 212212 87,8087,80 222222 88,4088,40 169169 201201 87,9087,90 211211 87,5087,50 220220 88,5088,50 170170 200200 87,6087,60 210210 87,9087,90 219219 88,7088,70 UUnitnit F Fabricabric U Utilizationtilization (cm) (cm) = = Length Length of of marker marker / /Efficiency Efficiency of of marker marker x xn numberumber of of a assortsortmentment s izesize. . companies, the widths of terry towel fab- rics woven for bathrobe manufacturing 90.00 89.50 Kimono varies in the range of 150 cm and 170 cm. 89.00 On the other hand, the standard dimen- 88.50 Shawl sions of pestemals used in bathrobe man- 88.00 collar 87.50 Hooded ufacturing are in a wide variety, ranging 87.00 between 80 cm and 170 cm. In the phase 86.50 of investigating the most optimal fabric 86.00 widths for effective usage of fabrics, var- Fabric utilization ratio, % 85.50 85.50 ious widths were examined by means of 150 152 154 156 158 160 162 164 166 168 170 the CAD systems employed in garment manufacturing. Fabric width, cm

Figure 6. Efficiency of terry towel fabric bathrobes for marker plans In the process using the CAD system, the FigureFigure 6. 6. Efficiency Efficiency of of terry terry towel towel fabric fabric bathrobe bathrobes sfor for marker marker plans plans following steps were included: 3.3.1.21.2. .Efficiency Efficiency of of p pestemalestemal b bathrobeathrobe n 1st Stage: Designing model patterns in were considered, the difference between original pestemals were included in the a computer environment. 88 unit quantities was estimated at 8 cm. pattern cutting plan prepared end-to-end n 2nd Stage: Organising models in series. That is, an 8 cm saving for a bathrobe in CAD design for the placement of parts n 3rd Stage: Preparation of cutting plans during the cutting stage would provide of the pattern of a bathrobe in a single (pattern layout on fabric spread) by 80 meters of saving when 1,000 pieces size. Hence this method did not allow an taking assortment amounts accepted of bathrobes are manufactured. Figure 6 assortment of bathrobe sizes; thus they for each terry towel fabric bathrobe exhibits the efficiencies of kimono, shawl were laid out one by one. For instance, model into consideration. In the man- collar and hooded bathrobe models made 2 pieces of pestemals of 80 x 160 cm di- ufacturing process of the pestemal out of terry towel fabric with respect to mensions were considered as the pattern bathrobe, in the case of pestemals of fabric widths in the graph. length, and thus the dimension was de- originally rectangular shape (in fact termined as 320 cm. The efficiency per- a classic bathrobe is manufactured Efficiency of pestemal bathrobe centage in the pattern cutting process was from 2 pieces of pestemals), spread Table 2 exhibits efficiency results of ex- estimated at 85% for a S size bathrobe. M cutting plans are prepared for each aminations conducted on pestemal bath- and L sizes were not able to be laid out model according to the relevant sizes robes whose pattern cutting plans were in this plan. The empty boxes in Table 2 without an assortment. made according to Figures 3-5. Due to suggest that no layout was possible even n 4th Stage: Determining efficiency (%) the obligatory position of original tufts with a single size in a given pestemal di- and unit fabric dimensions (cm) for on sleeve hems and hemlines, 2 pieces of mension. the cutting process of a fabric spread for both pestemal and terry towel fabric by considering different fabric Table 1. Fabric efficiency of terry towel fabric bathrobe during marker making process, and widths. unit quantities. Note: Unit Fabric Utilization (cm) = Length of marker/Efficiency of marker x number of assortment size. Efficiency in terry towel fabric bathrobe Kimono bathrobe Shawl collar bathrobe Hooded bathrobe As a result of these studies, efficiency Fabric Unit quantities Unit quantities Unit quantities witdh, Efficiency, Effıciency, Effıciency, findings relevant to the cutting fabric (unit fabric (unit fabric (unit fabric cm % % % spread process for terry towel fabric utilization), cm utilization), cm utilization), cm bathrobes are exhibited in Table 1. Ac- 150 231 86.40 230 87.30 250 87.80 cordingly the most efficient fabric width 151 226 87.70 237 87.50 249 87.40 for the kimono bathrobe model was 152 223 88.60 235 87.90 247 87.70 152 cm based on the dimensions given 153 222 88.10 234 87.60 244 88.40 in Figures 3-5. The most efficient fabric 154 221 87.30 233 87.50 243 88.20 widths were determined for shawl-collar 155 222 87.60 231 87.80 242 87.90 and hooded bathrobe models – 163 cm 156 219 86.80 229 87.70 237 88.80 and 158 cm, respectively. According to 157 215 86.80 228 87.60 236 88.70 the unit quantities displayed in Table 1, 158 213 87.80 227 87.50 234 89.00 the unit dimension for the kimono bath- 159 212 88.40 224 88.20 233 88.90 was 231 cm when the width of the 160 211 87.90 223 87.10 232 88.50 fabric was 150 cm, which decreased to 161 210 87.80 222 87.90 231 88.10 200 cm when the fabric width was in- 162 209 87.40 220 87.60 230 88.30 creased to 170 cm; accordingly the as- 163 208 87.30 219 88.50 228 88.80 sociated efficiency of the cutting fabric 164 207 87.50 217 87.80 227 87.90 spread process increased from 86.40% 165 206 87.70 215 88.30 226 88.30 to 87.60%. Using fabrics of 150 cm and 166 204 87.10 214 87.30 225 88.20 170 cm width on the same type of towel 167 203 88.30 213 87.90 224 88.30 weaving loom is not possible. According 168 202 87.90 212 87.80 222 88.40 to Table 1, when the highest (88.60%) 169 201 87.90 211 87.50 220 88.50 and lowest (86.40%) efficiency rates 170 200 87.60 210 87.90 219 88.70

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 4(130) 93

According to Table 2, there are different % 90 original pestemal dimensions relevant for kimono, shawl collar and hooded 85 bathrobe models. Thus the greater the 80 bathrobe size, the larger the pestemal utilisation rate is. Therefore the efficien- 75 cy of pestemal increases. Pestemal di-

70 mensions of 90 x 190 cm, 92 x 190 cm, 100 x 180 cm and 114 x 180 cm were 65 the ones exhibiting highest efficiency among the three models in comparison 60 with other dimensions. Appropriate pes- 55 temal dimensions for the pestemal hood- ed bathrobe were 110 x 180 cm, 100 x 50 180 cm and 114 x 180 cm. When 90 x 190 cm pestemal was used for the bath- 45 robe, fabric utilisation efficiencies for S, 40 M and L sizes were estimated at 84%, 90 x 92 x 95 x 100 x 110 x 114 x 116 x 118 x 120 x 122 x 160 x 165 x 170 x 190 190 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 180 200 200 200 79% and 75%, respectively. When con- sidering that efficiency rates obtained Kimono S M L Şalyaka S M L Kapşonlu S M L with different sizes of terry towel fabric Figure 7. Fabric utilisation efficiency (%) for pestemal bathrobes with respect to different pestemal sizes Figure 7. Fabric utilisation efficiency (%) for pestemal bathrobes with respect to different bathrobes were 86% and above, it could 3.2 Alternativepestemal marker sizes. plan for pestemals be clearly seen that fabric the utilisation In textile facilitiesTable 2. Efficiency in the Denizliof pestemal territory, bathrobe pestemaland unit quantities.es are not woven in fabric rolls, which yield non-discrete manufacturing Kimonobecause bathrobe of the tufts positionedShawl-collar on hemlines bathrobe and sleeve Hooded bathrobe Unit quantities Unit quantities Unit quantities Pestemal hems. The fabric utilisation (unitefficiency fabric of traditionalEfficiency, pestemal% (unit, offering fabric numerousEfficiency,advantages % (unit fabric Efficiency, % dimensions utilization), cm utilization), cm utilization), cm in the bathrobe manufacturingS MprocessL , wasS foundM toL be lowerS Mby 5 Lto 10%S onM averageL inS M L S M L comparison with80 x those160 manufactured320 from85 terry towel fabric.320 Therefore in88 order to enhance 320 88 80 x 168 336 80 336 85 336 85 fabric utilisation80 x 170efficiency,340 alternative pa78ttern layout plans340 were prepared. 80 As a result of340 80 85 x 168 336 77 336 79 336 79 various trial layouts88 x 170 prepared340 in the CAD 76system to increas 340e efficiency, it 77was seen that the340 77 most appropriate90 x 190layout was380 the380 one380 exhibited75 79in Figure84 3808, in 380which380 directional79 84 layout89 and380 380 380 79 84 89 92 x 190 380 380 380 72 75 79 380 380 380 75 79 83 380 380 380 75 79 83 special weaving95 xallow 180 ed 360tufts to360 be 360position70 ed 72on hemlines,75 360 sleeve360 hems360 71and pocket73 76 hems360. 360 360 72 74 79 96 x 160 320 83 360 360 360 72 75 78 360 360 360 72 75 78 The 30 to 40 cm98 x 170gap allowed340 for the formation80 of tufts in320 the special weaving83 report would320 83 allow tuft formation100 x 170 just 340 the same as with75 origi nal pestemal 340 es. Such a layout77 also enables 340 77 100 x 180 360 360 360 74 78 83 360 360 360 75 79 85 360 360 360 79 81 83 patterns to be102 laid x 175 out in350 an as350sortment . 70Processing75 2 pieces350 of350 pestemal 75es spread80 one on350 350 75 80 104 x 170 340 72 340 75 340 75 another increases106 x bathrobe 170 340 manufacturing costs70 due to increasing340 labou r and72 fabric wastage. 340 72 108 x 170 340 68 340 71 340 71 110 x 180 360 360 360 53 60 65 360 360 360 60 65 70 360 360 360 60 65 70 112 x 175 350 350 51 57 350 350 57 60 350 350 57 60 114*180 360 360 360 72 76 80 360 360 360 76 80 84 360 360 360 76 80 84 116 x 180 360 360 360 70 74 78 360 360 360 74 78 82 360 360 360 74 78 82 118 x 180 360 360 360 68 72 76 360 360 360 72 76 80 360 360 360 72 76 80 120 x 180 360 360 360 66 70 74 360 360 360 70 74 78 360 360 360 70 74 78 122 x 180 360 360 360 64 68 72 360 360 360 68 72 76 360 360 360 68 72 76 125 x 160 320 68 320 72 320 72 130 x 160 320 65 320 70 320 70 135 x 160 320 62 11 320 68 320 68 140 x 160 320 59 320 66 320 66 145 x 160 320 56 320 64 320 64 150 x 155 310 53 310 58 310 58 156 x 156 312 50 312 55 312 55 160 x 200 400 400 400 47 50 53 400 400 400 50 53 56 400 400 400 50 53 56 165 x 200 400 400 400 44 47 50 400 400 400 47 50 53 400 400 400 47 50 53 170 x 200 400 400 400 41 44 47 400 400 400 44 47 50 400 400 400 44 47 50

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efficiency values of pestemal bathrobes with the same size characteristics were lower even with the most appropriate pestemal widths.

The graph in Figure 7 exhibits the fabric utilisation efficiencies of pestemal bath- robes when the most appropriate fabric widths were used for each of the three models. Hence in terms of the best ef- ficiency rates obtained from 2 pieces of original pestemals, the most appropriate dimensions allowing S, M and L sizes to be laid out individually were 90 x 190 cm and 100 x 180 cm. As can be seen from the graph, single size layout on fabrics in 160 x 200cm, 165 x 200 cm or 170 x 200 cm dimensions yielded a low ef- ficiency rate, such as 40-43%. Owing to the substantial amount of fabric wastage, Figure 8. Pattern layout plan for weaving process with assortment the utility of these given dimensions in Figure 8. Pattern layout plan for weaving process with assortment. bathrobe manufacturingTable was not 3 foundexhibits fabric utilisation efficiency rates and unit quantities for specific pestemal appropriate. weaving in an assortedrectional layoutdistribution and special form. weaving Due toFor the the shawlspecific collar patternand hooded layout bathrobe, unit quantities allowed tufts to be positioned on hem- models, no pattern layout was made for Alternative marker plan for pestemals remain constant;lines, and sleeveas the hems fabric and widthpocket increases,hems. 159 fabric cm and utili160 cmsation widths. efficiency Thus a 5 to decreases. For In textile facilities in the Denizli terri- The 30 to 40 cm gap allowed for the 8% increase in efficiency was observed tory, pestemales are notthe woven shawl in fabric collar formationand hooded of tufts bathrobe in the special models, weaving no withpattern respect layout to the layoutwas mademethod for on the159 cm and 160 rolls, which yield non-discrete manu- report would allow tuft formation just basis of dimensions. facturing because of thecm tufts widths. positioned Thus the a same 5 to as 8% with increase original pestemales. in efficiency was observed with respect to the layout on hemlines and sleeve hems. The fab- Such a layout also enables patterns to be Conslusions ric utilisation efficiencymethod of traditional on the basislaid out of indimensions. an assortment. Processing 2 pestemal, offering numerousadvantages pieces of pestemales spread one on an- Conventional fabric varieties have been in the bathrobe manufacturing process, other increases bathrobe manufacturing disappearing in parallel with substantial was found to be lower by 5 to 10% on costs due to increasing labour and fabric advancements in industry. Accordingly average in comparison with those manu- wastage. traditional fabrics and clothes are being factured from terry towel fabric. There- modernised (e.g. products with jacquard fore in order to enhance fabric utilisa- Table 3 exhibits fabric utilisation effi- and dyed yard as and design el- tion efficiency, alternative pattern layout ciency rates and unit quantities for spe- ements are being developed to replace plans were prepared. As a result of var- cific pestemal weaving in an assorted classic pestemal) to utilise them as ious trial layouts prepared in the CAD distribution form. Due to the specific clothing etc., and they still prevail in system to increase efficiency, it was seen pattern layout, unit quantities remain our contemporary times. These products that the most appropriate layout was the constant; and as the fabric width increas- Table 3. Fabric utilisation efficiency of bathrobes madeare with 500-1000 specially g lighter woven than pestemal towel ,bath and- relevant unit one exhibited in Figure 8, in which di- es, fabric utilisation efficiency decreases. robes, absorb water 2-8 sec. faster, and quantities

Table 3. Fabric utilisation efficiency of bathrobes made with specially woven pestemal, and relevantPestemal unit shawl quantities. collar Pestemal kimono bathrobe bathrobe Pestemal hooded bathrobe Pestemal kimono bathrobeUnit QuantitiesPestemal shawl collar Unitbathrobe Quantities Pestemal hooded Unit bathrobeQuantities Fabric width, Assortment Unit quantities Unit quantities Unit quantities cm Fabric Efficiency,( Unit Fabric Efficiency Efficiency, ( Unit Fabric ( Unit Efficiency,Fabric (unit fabric utilization), (unit fabric utilization), (unit fabric utilization), % % % widthcm Utilization) cm (%) Utilization) Effıcıencycm Utilization) Effıcıency 159 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 82.4 (cm) Assortment (cm) (cm) (%) (cm) (%) 160 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 81.7 161 S-1,M-1,L-1 159 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 81.0 192 20382,4 78.6 209 78.7 162 S-1,M-1,L-1 160 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 80.6 192 20381,7 77.2 209 77.3 163 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 79.3 203 76.4 209 76.5 161 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 81,0 203 78,6 209 78,7 164 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 78.8 203 75.5 209 76.1 165 S-1,M-1,L-1 162 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 78.2 192 20380,6 74.3203 77,2209 209 75.6 77,3 166 S-1,M-1,L-1 163 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 77.3 192 20379,3 72.2203 76,4209 209 75.0 76,5 167 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 76.4 203 71.8 209 74.5 164 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 78,8 203 75,5 209 76,1 168 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 75.5 203 71.3 209 73.8 169 S-1,M-1,L-1 165 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 73.4 192 20378,2 70.7203 74,3209 209 73.2 75,6 170 S-1,M-1,L-1 166 192 S-1,M-1,L-1 71.7 192 20377,3 70.3203 72,2209 209 71.8 75,0 167 S-1,M-1,L-1 192 76,4 203 71,8 209 74,5 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 4(130) 95 12

they dry faster as well. Since pestemal 3. Kalkanci M, Dünden Günümüze “Buldan is lighter, users do not feel extra weight Bezi”,1st International Regional “Bez” when they wear products made with Days (Today Old Times/Textiles) Sym- them. Additionally these fabrics main- posium, 2012, Istanbul, Turkey. tain their characteristics and quality af- 4. Can Y. Geçmişten Günümüze Kızıl- st ter long-term usage. Furthermore they cabölük Dokumacılığı, 1 International are preferred because of their natural Regional “Bez” Days (Today Old Times/ texture, as they do not contain chemical Textiles) Symposium, 2012, Istanbul, substances. Turkey. 5. Yılmaz Y. Hıstory Of SPA Industry In Turkey, Spa Tourism Textbook – IP Moreover, when the environmental 2010, Section 3, Prešovská univerzita v impacts of a bathrobe made with ter- Prešove, Slovak Republic. ry towel fabric containing natural cot- 6. Ünal ZB. Dokunmuş Havlu Kumaşların ton fibre throughout its economic life Üretim Parametreleri ve Performans are considered, it is realised that they Özelliklerinin Optimizasyonu, Çukurova are not as environmentally friendly as University, MSc Thesis, 2007 they are believed to be. For example, 7. Fronczak-Wasiak I, Snycerski M. Use in order to manufacture a bathrobe of Properties of Terry Woven Fabrics. FI- 1.5 kg weight, 6 kg cotton needs to be BRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe harvested from land, which is processed 2004; 12, 1(45): 40-44. on special weaving machines, incurring 8. Koç E, Zervent B. An Experimental Ap- numerous operations. The whole manu- proach on the Performance of Towels – facturing process of a terry towel fabric Part I. Bending Resistance or Softness bathrobe requires 150 L of water and Analysis. FIBRES & TEXTILES in East- a substantial amount of chemical sub- ern Europe 2006; 14, 1(55): 39-46. stances. The findings of the study pres- 9. Koç E, Zervent B. An Experimental Ap- ent that cotton fibre, which is the most proach on the Performance of Towels commonly consumed natural fibre, is Part II. Degree of Hydrophility and Di- not so environmentally friendly a fibre mensional Variation. FIBRES & TEX- as expected [15]. When it is considered TILES in Eastern Europe 2006, 14, 2(56): 64-70. that a pestemal bathrobe weights about 10. Erdogan Z. A research on Weaving and 0.4 kg, it can be foreseen that there will Some Physical Properties of Woven Ma- be less water and chemical substance terials Produced in Buldan, Ankara Uni- needed in its manufacturing process. In versity, Graduate School of Natural and our current times in which environmen- Applied Science, Dept. of Home Eco- tal and public health have gained promi- nomics. Ph.D. Thesis, Ankara, Turkey, nence, the bathrobe and similar products 1996. have become especially important. 11. Erdogan Z, Söylemezoglu F, Kahvecio- glu H. The Use of Traditional Buldan Environmentally-friendly products can Weavings In Interior Design, Proceed- be manufactured that incur savings in ings of the 4th International Scientific terms of energy, raw-material and labour, Conference, Jelgava, Letonya, 2009. as well as reduce chemical wastes with 12. Skenderi Z, Salopek Čubrić I, Srdjak an adverse environmental impact. From M. Water Vapour Resistance of Knitted cloth comfort point of view, pestemals Fabrics under Different Environmental do not disappoint customers as they have Conditions. FIBRES & TEXTILES in a shorter drying period and are light Eastern Europe 2009; 17, 2(73): 72-75. weight. Traditional fabrics which have 13. Wu H Y, Zhang W Y, Li J. Study on Im- survived numerous centuries through proving the Thermal-Wet Comfort of various fashion and design factors could Clothing during Exercise with an Assem- maintain their popularity and relevance bly of Fabrics. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2009; 17, 4(75): 46-51. and contribute to regional cultures. How- 14. Yang K, Jiao M J, Chen Y S, Li J, Zhang ever, pestemal-style products inherited W-Y. Analysis and Prediction of the Dy- through Turkish traditions and customs namic Heat - Moisture Comfort Property are required to be woven more efficiently of Fabric. FIBRES & TEXTILES in East- and perfectly by blending today’s tech- ern Europe 2008; 16, 3(68): 51-55. nology. 15. Güngör A, Palamutçu S, İkiz Y. Pamuklu Tekstiller ve Çevre: Bir Bornozun Yaşam Döngü Değerlendirmesi, Tekstil ve Kon- feksiyon, 2007/4, pg. 279-283. References 1. http://usaktso.org/ 2016.pdf . 2. http://www.dunya.com/havlu ihracati- 2017. Received 24.05.2017 Reviewed 22.03.2018

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