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Guide De La Grande-Bretagne En Jeans VIVRE EN JEANS! nouveau décontracté et libre informé et exigeant le style jeans s'est imposé! • des lieux nouveaux • des adresses pas chères • des renseignements pratiques w des informations précises • des «trucs» inédits Vous cherchez . la ludothèque? . le bar à bons vins ? . le groupe antinucléaire actif? . la station-service de nuit? . la bonne musique pour danser? . le marché de produits bio? . une bière chinoise? . un artisan auvergnat? . un atelier d'enfants ? . le musée insolite? et tout le reste : Barcelone et les Baléares en jeans Côte d'Azur en jeans France en jeans Grèce en jeans Londres en jeans New York en jeans Paris en jeans Rome en jeans U.S.A. en jeans collection dirigée par Henri Le More une production . hachette-guides bleus/éditions de cléry GUIDE DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE EN JEANS GUIDE DE LA' fiRANDE- BRE1AQNE EN JEANS texte de DavidJrWORT et Gabrielle VARRO Illustrations par Anne SAUSSOIS Une production Guides Bleus Éditions de Cléry 284 bd Saint-Germain 38 bd de Port-Royal 75007 Paris . 75013 Paris Nous voulons remercier toutes les personnes et tous les organismes qui ont allégé et égayé notre préparation du Guide de la Grande-Bretagne en jeans, spécialement : Michael et Cheryl Thompson, Bruce et Daniel Bennet, Peter Bradley, Charles van Tassel, Mike Broussine, Irving Rodgers, Sue Peter, Jon Skillings, lan et Fran Robertson, Sally Varlow, Edith Varro, Alain Fournier, Henri Le More, tous les services de la British Tourist Autority en Grande- Bretagne et l'Office de tourisme britannique à Paris. Un grand merci à madame Cook et à madame Kate Catleugh. Nous n'oublions pas les T.I.C. à travers la Grande-Bretagne qui ont été avec nous patients et cour- tois et tout à fait « best of British », et nous remercions Britanny-Ferries, les Chemins de Fer britanniques, Town- send Thoresen et la compagnie Seajet. Une pensée attendrie pour les Student Unions et leur accueil fraternel! Enfin, comment ne pas parler des Grands-Bretons eux-mêmes (et nous ne ferons que ça d'ailleurs!) et du plaisir d'être chez eux, que ce soit dans leurs pubs, dans leur maison ou dans leur campagne; Thank you everybody! Les commentaires de nos lecteurs et utilisateurs seront les bienvenus et toute correction, addition ou nouvelle infor- mation sera appréciée par les auteurs. @ 1981 Hachette et Éditions de Cléry Table des matières Introduction 9 1. arriver - partir 11 Traverser la Manche. — Voyager en avion, 17. — Voyager en train, avion ou en car, avion, 18. — Voyager en stop, 19. — Et pour le cavalier seul, 19. — Voitures particulières, 19. — Quelques adresses utiles avant de partir, 20 — et quelques adresses utiles en arrivant, 21. 2. se déplacer 23 Voyager sur l'eau, 24. 3. la Grande-Bretagne de A à Z 27 Acheter, 27. — Adventure, 29. — Alternative G.B., 29 — Auberges de jeunesse en G.B. Y.H.A., 30 — Au pair, 31. — Autoroutes et « A » Roads, 31. — Autostop, 31. — Bière, 33. — B&B, 33. — Breakfast, 34. — Buffs, 34. — Ceilidh, 35. — Hogmany, 35. — Climat, 36. — Cricket, 36. — Cyclisme, 36. — Drogues, 37. — Étudiant en G.B., 37 — Faux amis, 38. — Gastronomie, 39. — Gay Great Britain, 40. — Gazon, 41. — La loi et la coutume, 41. — Money, 42. — Jumble sale, 42 — Pêche, 43. — Pubs, 43. — Séjour linguistique, 44. — Sheep dog Trials, 46. — Skittles, 47. — Thé, 47. — Téléphone, 47. — Tourist Information Centres, 48. — Le travail, 48. — Whisky, 49. — Zoos, 50. 4. l'Angleterre du Sud et du Sud-Est 51 Approche, 51. — D'un point à un autre, 51. — Arundel, 53. — Brighton, 54. — Canterbury, 54. — Chichester, 56. — Dover, 56. — Folkestone, 57. — Portsmouth, 58. — Rye, 60. — Winchelsea, 61. — Southampton, 60. — Les villes du Medway, 62. — The New Forest, 62. — Isle of Wight, 63. — Winchester, 66. — Quelques « events », 68. — Séjours inhabituels, 68. — Des endroits méritant un détour, 69. 5. le West Country 71 Approche, 71. — D'un point à J'autre, 72. — Bath, 73. — Bristol, 75. — Dartmoor, 77. — Exeter, 79. — Exmoor, 81. — Plymouth, 82. — Salisbury, 84. — Quelques endroits méritant un détour, 88. — Cornwall, 90. — Falmouth, 91. 6. le Pays de Galles 95 Approche, 95. — Se loger au Pays de Galles, 99. — Brecon Beacons, 99. — Cardiff, 100. — Carmarthen, 103. — Colwyn Bay, Llandudno, Conwy, 104. — Machynlleth, 106. — The Menai Strait, 107. — Bangor, 107. — Caernarfon, 107. — Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, 108. — Rhyl, Ruthin, Llangollen, 109. — Snowdonia National Park, 110. — Swansea et le Gower, 111. — Séjours avec activités de toutes sortes, 112. — Endroits méritant un détour, 114. — A faire, 116. 7. le Centre de l'Angleterre 119 Approche, 119. — D'un point à un autre, 120. — Quelques auberges de jeunesse, 120. — Gloucester, 121. — The Cotswold Hills, 121. — Oxford, 122. — St Albans, 124. — Stratford-upon-Avon, 125. — Windsor, 125. — Worcester, 126. — The Wye Valley, 127. — Lieux de séjour inhabi- tuels, 128. — Quelques endroits méritant un détour, 128. — Comment se divertir dans la région, 129. 8. le Nord-Ouest de l'Angleterre 133 Approche, 133. — La région des lacs, 135. — D'un point à l'autre, 136. — Buttermere, 137. — Cockermouth, 137. — Carlisle, 138. — Chester, 139. — Hawkshead, 142. — Keswick, 142. — Ambleside et Windermere, 143. — Séjours spéciaux et activités dans le Nord-Ouest et la région des lacs, 146. — A faire dans la région des lacs, 147. — Events dans la région des lacs, 150. — A visiter, à voir, à acheter, 151. 9. l'Écosse 155 Approche, 155. — Aberdeen, 160. — Edimbourg, 160. — Fifeshire, 170. — Fort William, 171. — Glencoe, 171. — Glasgow, 172. — Gretna, 177. — Highlands & Islands, 177. — Thurso, 178. — Inverness, 178. — Loch Lomond, 180. — Loch Ness, 181. — Moffat, 182. — Nairn, 183. — Newton Stewart, 184. — Oban, 185. — Peebles, 186. — Skye, 187. 10. le Nord-Est de l'Angleterre 189 Approche, 189. — Northumberland, 191. — Tyne and Wear, 192. — County Durham, 193. — Yorshire et Humber- side, 195 - Beverley, 195. — Harrogate, 196. — Richmond, 196. — Skipton, 197. — Thirsk, 197. — York, 198. — Yorkshire Dales, 204. — Séjours avec activités, 205. — Endroits méritant un détour, 206. — Quelques « events », 208. 11. l'Est de l'Angleterre 209 Approche, 209. — The Broads, 210. — Bury St Edmunds, 213. — Cambridge, 214. — Colchester, 219. — Ely, 220. — Felixtowe, 221. — Great Yarmouth, 221. — Ipswich, 222. — King's Lynn, 224. — Lincoln, 225. — Lowestoft, 228. — Norwich, 229. — Séjours spéciaux et activités dans la région, 234. — Quelques « events » dans la région, 235. — Endroits méritant un détour, 236. 12. Londres 239 Approche, 239. — Se déplacer dans Londres, 242. — Dormir à Londres, 245. — Manger à Londres, 248. — Boire, 253. — Se distraire à Londres, 255. — Que faire à Londres, 259. — Voir à Londres, 259. — Promenades et excursions, 266. — . Acheter à Londres, 268. — S.O.S, 273. 13. lire sur la Grande-Bretagne 275 INTRODUCTION Qu'est-ce donc que ce pays, cette petite île baptisée Grande, qu'on peut atteindre à la nage, mais dont la culture et les gens sont si différents et si littéralement insulaires qu'un jour de brouillard, la BBC annonça : « brouillard sur la Manche, continent isolé »... ? Pourtant c'est cet isolement même qui fait de la Grande- Bretagne un pays de tant d'intérêt. Ses envahisseurs et conquérants multiples ont marqué à travers les siècles le caractère aussi bien que l'architecture britanniques et cela les rend passionnants. Mais depuis la conquête normande (1066), l'insularité a consolidé le tout, en protégeant l'originalité de l'île (les pubs par exemple sont restés) et en la défendant des influences extérieures (bien évidemment tout cela a énormément changé depuis l'entrée de la Grande-Bretagne dans le Marché Commun, mais il faut toujours conduire à gauche...). Beaucoup de gens, quand ils pensent à la G.-B., pensent à Londres; certes, c'est la capitale du pays et une des grandes capitales du monde ; mais elle n'est pas l'ensem- ble du pays, elle n'en est même pas représentative. Ses monuments, le clos normand de la Tour de Londres qui a 900 ans, et les Maisons du Parlement du xixe s., ses cérémonies royales, ses musées, sa vie nocturne, etc., attirent le touriste, mais le pays en tant que tel possède un attrait tout aussi réel, sinon aussi développé par l'industrie du tourisme. La variété de la campagne anglaise, ponctuée de demeures seigneuriales, d'églises monumentales, de champs et de villages parfaitement entretenus (l'Anglais se préoccupe énormément de l'extérieur de sa maison comme de l'intérieur), de montagnes comme les Pennines, de landes (Exmoor, Dartmoor...) traversées de ruisseaux glacés, de lacs resplendissants, de ports de pêche et de plaisance scintillants, de moutons et de bétail broutant, de toits de chaume et de toits d'ardoise ou de tuiles... se déroule tel un travelling alléchant et séduisant, et vous attire vers les plages de sable fin ou de galets sur fond de falaises blanches qui accueillent le voyageur arrivant dans l'île. Cette spécificité est en quelque sorte exacerbée dans le Pays de Galles, tout à fait différent en tout cas de l'Angleterre. Son histoire est forcément tout autre, consis- tant en un conflit continuel avec l'Angleterre jusqu'au xvie s. quand le mariage entre les familles royales créa la Maison des Tudor dont la vaste silhouette de Henri VIII est la mieux connue. La langue galloise a toujours persévéré et même dominé, et la différence incarnée dans le bilinguisme et la biculture est partie intégrante de la personnalité galloise. Entre les grandes vallées, la plaine côtière et l'île d'Anglesey dans le nord-ouest, le Pays de Galles est une série de montagnes dont de larges zones sont pratiquement vierges. Ces montagnes vêtues de forêts, cachant des lacs-miroirs et de minuscules chemins font la joie du marcheur hardi ou du voyageur qui cherche à tout laisser derrière lui. Pourtant les distances, si petites en réalité, lui permettent de rejoindre la « civilisation » des villes ou des côtes dès qu'il se sent dépassé par la grandeur de la nature..
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