103 © Lonely Planet Publications ’ (welcome again). karibu tena karibu 255 Freddie Mercury; humankindFreddie Serengeti; Mt Kilimanjaro; Serengeti; 34.5 million Swahili and English Dodoma Tanzanian Shilling (TSh); Tanzanian 943,000 sq km Area Area Birthplace of Capital Country code for Famous cloves; ; Nyerere; Money €1 = TSh1424 US$1 = TSh1176; Population

Despite all this, Tanzania is remarkably unassuming and low-key, and thus far has remained is remarkably unassuming and low-key, and thus far has remained all this, Tanzania Despite – the northern most popular areas safari circuit around Arusha and the Zanzibar The with themselves, you visit, the highlight inevitably winds up being Tanzanians Wherever FAST FACTS FACTS FAST Few areas of the continent captivate the imagination as does Tanzania. Snowcapped Mt as does Tanzania. the imagination of the continent captivate areas Few the horizon, flamingos stand sentinel in salt pans Kilimanjaro towers majestically over the Ser- and the hoof beats of thousands echo over of Ngorongoro Crater, end hot, dusty afternoons of legend, where In many ways, this is the Africa engeti Plains. skies star-studded enfold the hills, of sunset and velvet-black abruptly in glorious blazes ruins of ancient Swahili sands and moss-covered white caress breezes where dot the shoreline. city-states enviably untouched by the tribal rivalries and political upheavals that plague many of its While it’s ideal for exploring in combination with the other countries covered neighbours. than enough attractions to be a journey on its own. in this book, it also has more easily and are and restaurants, sealed main roads and an array of hotels Archipelago – have head adventure, time, and for more loop. With more East African into a larger incorporated path, surrounded by a you’ll soon find yourself well off the beaten south and west, where and amenities. development from Western that is far removed Tanzania that you’ll want to come and dignity. Chances are warmth, politeness their characteristic will say ‘ to which most Tanzanians back for more, Tanzania TANZANIA hotels close. ary roads are and many coastal impassable of life. The downsideisthat somesecond- enjoy landscapes thatare green andfull dation costs, have and things toyourself can often save onaccommo- substantially March May you through rainy season, aroundthe holidays.Duringthepluses and manyhotels charge sur- high-season temperaturestourists, though are higher late DecembertoFebruary there are fewer are fullandairfares mostexpensive. From this isalsowhenhotels andparklodges finished andtheairiscoolest.However, late June andOctober,whentherainshave sons, butthebesttimetotravel isbetween December andintoJanuary. the shortrains rains towns. 30°C. See p621 forclimate charts formajor December andMarch above theycan soar as Njombe,MbeyaandArusha. Between dropping lowerinmore areas elevated such JuneandAugust,sometimes 27°C between plateau, temperatures range from20°Cto 25°C and29°C.Onthecentralhighland midity andtemperatures averaging between coast, conditionsare hu- tropical,withhigh are marked regional differences. Alongthe est fromDecembertoMarch, butthere are fromJunetoOctoberandthewarm- thecountry,coolestmonths Throughout CLIMATE &WHENTOGO HIGHLIGHTS 104

Chimpanzees Tanzania canbevisited duringallsea- or serene inlandlakes. lands, thepalm-fringed mainlandcoast pick of beach –fromidyllicoffshore is- Beaches Picture-perfect Mountains Majestic Mafia orKilwaKisiwani. Zanzibar, thecenturiesonwinds backthrough Exotic Islands life inthewild. inthesounds,scentsandrhythms ofself Serengeti toremote Katavi, your- immerse Wildlife Safaris esque villages intheUsambara range. manjaro andMeru oramblepastpictur- There are withthelong tworainyseasons, National Parks. at Mahale orGombeStream Mountains TANZANIA ••Highlights (masika) ( p250 ) Meet thechimpanzees frommid-March toMay, and ( p249 ) Followthemonsoon 9 Fo world-famous From (p91) (mvuli) ( p250 ) ScaleMtsKili- duringNovember, ( p249 ) Take your TAA became theTanganyika African Na- now celebrated as Saba Day)and the introduced on7July1954 (ananniversary Anewinternal constitution wassation. formed into aneffective political organi- leader ship, theTAA wasquicklytrans- asitspresident. Under his resentment against colonialpolicies. asachannel forgrass-roots which served the AfricaAssociation (TAA), fledgling political scenewasdominated by politicalrole,andsoon Tanganyika’sportant operatives begantoplayanincreasingly im- known –graduallysolidified.Farmers’ co- ganyika –asmainlandTanzania wasthen decades, thenationalistmovement inTan- of 1905(see p235 ). Duringthefollowing ence canbetracedtothe of TanzanianThe earliestseeds independ- StruggleforIndependence The of see colonial-eradevelopments, p28 . millennia,andanoverview and subsequent three millionyears ago. Formore onthese zanian plainsandsurroundingareas over ancestors mayhave roamingtheTan- been Kenya andEthiopia,showthatourearliest together witharchaeological findsfrom OlduvaiGorgeprints unearthednear ( p200 ), of humankind.Hominid(humanlike) foot- Tanzania’s historybeginswith thedawn HISTORY In 1953theTAA elected ateacher named LONELY INDEX PLANET HOW MUCH?

Street snack(mishikaki) Souvenir T-shirt Safari Lager Litre ofbottledwater Litre ofpetrol taxiride Short Papaya per personentry Serengeti NationalPark entry Plate ofugali per day Midrange safari TSh300 TSh500 TSh500 TSh1040 TSh1500 US$200perperson TSh10,000 www.lonelyplanet.com TSh500 TSh200 US$50 tan, andthemassacre orexpulsionoftan, most the topplingof thegovernment andthesul- the rulingZPPP-ZNP to coalition, leading Okello initiated aviolentrevolution against a month,Ugandan immigrantnamedJohn government. two minoritypartiesthatformedthefirst dependence inDecember1963,itwasthe by theBritish.As in- aresult, atZanzibari Party (ZNP),bothof which were favoured Nationalist the sultanate-oriented Zanzibar zibar &Pemba People’s Party (ZPPP)and the ASPwere twominorityparties,theZan- radical Afro-Shirazi Party (ASP).Opposing main pushforindependencecamefromthe aBritishprotectoratebeen since1890,the Nyerere aspresident. asarepublic,1962 itwasestablished with became independentandon9December minister. On9December1961 Tanganyika government, requesting Nyerere tobechief agreed of totheestablishment internal self- eral legislative elections,and in 1959Britain supported candidates decisively wongen- was independence. In1958and1959,TANU- of tional Union(TANU), withtherallyingcry www.lonelyplanet.com This government didnot lastlong.Within Archipelago, which had On theZanzibar One of thefirst items onTANU’s agenda with stops in Kilwa, Lindi, Mikindani andMtwara. Lindi,Mikindani with stops inKilwa, National Parks;and Mbeya withstopsenroute andRuaha atMikumi or followthecoast south, Tanzaniaor northeastern viathewestern Serengeti; your waysouthwestbetween Morogoro make With amonth, combineany of theabove itineraries; travel Victoria betweenLake andnorthern One Month beaches aroundPangani enroute to/fromtheUsambaras. itineraries suggested under‘OneWeek’: staylongeronZanzibar;gotoPemba; relax onthe followed byaweekchillingoutonZanzibar.Kilimanjaro, Alternatively, youcanexpand onthe circuitorclimbing For theclassicbush-and-beach itinerary,spendaweekon thenorthern-safari Two Weeks Area.and therest oftheweek inandaroundtheNgorongoroConservation a wildlife safariandafew nearLushoto; dayshiking orspendadaytwo inornearArusha parks;splititbetween in Arusha,divideyourtimebetween acoupleofthenorthern-circuit NationalPark orMikumi Reserve andtheremainder oftheweekonZanzibar. Foraweekstarting Arriving inDaresSalaam,spendaday there gettingoriented, acoupleofnightsatSaadani Game One Week exploring themwell,ratherthantrying tofittoomuchintoonevisit.Here are afew suggestions. Getting aroundTanzania time,soit’sbest tochooseoneortworegions takes andconcentrate on TANZANIA TRAVELS ‘uhuru naumoja’ (freedom andunity). Abeid Karume. ofcomprised ASPmembers andheadedby Council,which was Revolutionary Zanzibar wasreplacedtan byanentityknownasthe of theislands’Arab population.Thesul- October). United Republicof Tanzania thefollowing Republic of Tanganyika (renamed the of unionwith Karume, creating theUnited program. a coldwarresponse totheASP’ssocialist ing spiritof pan-Africanism, andinpartas was motivated inpartbythethenprevail- from theoutset, bymanyZanzibaris sented to thisday. nance of Tanzanian politics,which endures marked thebeginning of domi- theCCM’s new unionconstitutionon27April1977, tion). Thismerger, which wasratifiedina Cha Mapinduzi Party (CCM; of theRevolu- the ASPintoanewpartyknownas Chama andcombinedTANUa one-partystate and mainland, Nyerere formationof authorised ing fromthemerger of theislandswith tosubduethe ongoing unresteffort result- by Aboud Jumbe. Shortly thereafter, inan when hewasassassinated and succeeded On 26April1964Nyerere signedanact Formation of the union,which wasre- Karume’s government lasted until1972, TANZANIA ••History

105 TANZANIA TANZANIA Tanzania 106 0 200 km 0 120 miles

TANZANIA TANZANIA To Kisangani Mubende Mt Stanley Jinja To Soroti To Lodwar (5109m) KAMPALA Butembo Kasese Entebbe Kisumu Tana To Kisimayo; Mt Kenya Mogadishu U G A N D A (5199m) Ssese Garissa Lake Islands Edward Kisii Mbarara Naivasha River L A K E DEMOCRATIC Mutukula REPUBLIC OF Thika ὈὈὈNkurungu THE Ibanda V I C T O R I A Kabale Tarime Kitui GR Rumanyika Masai Mara Kyaka NR NAIROBI Orugundu GR Musoma River Goma Mara RWANDA Ikorongo Kajiado Grumeti Magadi Rubondo B6 GR GR Lobo Island NP Ukerewe Bunda Gitarama KIGALI Grume Kibungo Nansio Speke ti River K E N Y A Burigi GR Lake Gulf Seronera Natron Namanga ὈὈButare RusumuὈBiharamulo ὈὈὈ Serengeti Falls GR Sengerema NP Ngorongoro Biharamulo Magu s Maswa CA nd Kobero Geita la Mt h Tsavo Galana Lusahunga B163 ig Kilimanjaro River Maswa H (5896m) GR Ngorongoro Mt Meru BURUNDI Nyankanazi er Crater (4566m) Arusha NP B6 t Voi ra Lake C Karatu BUJUMBURA Lake Arusha Moshi Taveta Eyasi Makuyuni E B3 Manyara NP P Kibondo a Lake Manyara Kwa Kuchinja a Kahama Shinyanga s r e Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈMbulu ὈὈὈt Ὀ B8 M Kigosi Lake e 4°S Tarangire Same o GR Balangida r MOMBASA ὅὅὅ Pang u Mkomazi Nzega Babati NP Sambu n n Mt Hanang t GR Makamba Moyowosi Sekenke (1570m) a (3417m) ani B1 i GR Lake A n Nyanza-Lac Wembere Babati M a a s a i s ὅὅὅ r River Bereko Swamp Usambara Lunga Lunga Kasulu c Gombe S t e p p e Lushoto Horohoro Stream Lake B6 Kolo M Mountains Kigoma NP Nyagamoma Singida ὅὅὅ Kondoa Mombo www.lonelyplanet.com Kaliua Uvinza Tabora o Amani Wete L a k e Ujiji Tanga

u Korogwe ὈὈLake Kipalapala ὈὈὈ Chake Muheza River Sagara ὅὅὅ n Handeni Segera Chake

Malagarasi Ugalla A104 Pemba

t Pangani a

B8 Sikonge Manyoni i A14

River Ugalla River n

Meia Meia Mkata Zanzibar GR s Lagosa 6°S Saadani Mahale DODOMA Zanzibar GR Town Mountains NP Kongwa Kwadihombo Mpwapwa ὈὈὈὈMpanda ὈὈὈ ὈMsata Bagamoyo Tanzania www.lonelyplanet.com Kisigo Mikese T a n g a n SumbwaὈὈὈSitalike ὈὈὈ A7 Chalinze Morogoro Kitunda Kisigo Katavi River Kilosa DAR ES NP Rungwa GR Chipogolo u r Msumbisi SALAAM y i k a Rungwa GR River ver u s Ri Makatapora g n Matombo t u Moba Rukwa l Rungwa M GR U Dutumi 40°E Namanyere B6 Nyangolo Mikumi Mikumi Ruvu Ruaha NP NP Msembe Kisaki Mafia B8 Kipembawe A7 Mloka Island DEMOCRATIC Kibiti Lake Ruaha River Iringa Udzungwa REPUBLIC OF Sumbawanga Rukwa Mountains Mang'ula 8°S NP B2 Kilindoni THE CONGO ὈὈὈὈGreat ὈὈὈὈὈὈUtete River Ifakara Mohoro Souther Kasanga Makongolosi Hi n Ruaha Selous I N D I A N ghlan Lupiro ds GR O C E A N Chunya Little Kipatimo Kasesha Makambako Gap Mbeya Range Mahenge Kilwa Kivinje Mpulungu Nangurukuru Mbeya A104 Makambako Mbala Mt KilomberoValley Kilwa Masoko Rungwe Kitulo Taveta Malinyi Uonga NP Songo Mnara Tukuyu (2960m) Pande Island Tunduma Njombe ὈὈ Matema ὈὈὈ Itungi

B4 River Liwale

Karonga L 10°S M Z A M B I A Isoka i Lindi v Mbwemkuru River o Mnazi Mmoja i Kasama u n (Mingoyo) B2 n barangandu Mtwara g

t s M Nachingwea Mikindani a

t B5 i o

n Msangesi

Livingstonia n Makonde Kilambo

s e GR A19 Plateau ὈὈὈSongea ὈMasasi Palma L a k e Nangomba Liuli Lukwika- Newala Lake Lumesule GR Bangweulu Mbamba Bay Tunduru R Moçimboa iv r Chiwanda e da Praia e Mzuzu Nkhata r Masuguru iv Bay R

Mueda a a s a y N Lupilichi ma w Ruvu g Mpika n a 12°S LEGEND u L CA Conservation Area Cóbuè Ὀ GR Game Reserve ( L a k e M a l a w i ) NP National Park NR National Reserve Metangula M O Z A M B I Q U E TANZANIA

Kanona M A L A W I Metoro Pemba Mfuwe Montepuez Lichinga

To Kapiri Mposhi Chipata 107

To Lusaka To Blantyre

LILONGWE To Nampula TANZANIA TANZANIA work ontheland. bers, whileeach individualwasobligated to held incommonandshared amongmem- reliance. goodsandtoolswere Basic tobe African lines,withanemphasisonself- agricultural collective runalong traditional was the Thepolicy’scornerstone and self-reliance. committed Tanzania toapolicyof socialism led tothe Arusha Declarationof 1967,which university graduates intheentire country. ence there were tobeonlyahandfulof said neglected,also been sothatatindepend- Archipelago.the Zanzibar Educationhad lar bythemainland’slackof controlover plaguedinparticu- cally fragile,itsstability was economicallyfounderingandpoliti- Nyerere took thehelmof acountrythat SocialistExperiment Great The 108 Mwinyi. Mwinyi tried to distance himself himself Mwinyi. Mwinyi tried todistance handing over power to Zanzibari Ali Hassan the socialist experiment.In 1985heresigned, with 1980, amid continuingdissatisfaction Nyerere wasre-elected toafifth term in Democracy Debuts of exports. andsisal and ) andsharpdropsin thevalue Tanzania,customs unionbetween Kenya AfricanCommunity(an economicand East rising oilprices, the 1977break-up of the a combinationof factors, includingsteeply capacity. Thedeclinewasprecipitated by dustry limpedalongatlessthan 50%of agricultural productionstagnated andin- a failure. Per incomeplummeted, capita health care. itwas Economically,however, the countryandexpandingeducation and dependence, andiscredited withunifying wide ly acclaimedinthedaysfollowingin- pulsory resettlement waswidespread. unsuccessful, andresentment towardscom- Yetto socialservices. thisapproach wasalso andimprovethe agriculturalsector access tomodernise planned villages inaneffort was resettled, often forcibly,intoover 7000 1978, 85%of Tanzania’s ruralpopulation 1973and of direct statecontrol.Between unrealistic, andwasabandonedinfavour follow theirexample. Thisapproach proved would pand inthehopethatotherpeasants progressive farmers were encouraged toex- In theearlydaysof the This inauspicious beginning eventually This inauspiciousbeginningeventually Tanzania’s experimentinsocialismwas TANZANIA ••History (familyhood)village –an ujamaa system, economic and religious frictions, bothon was the unmasking of underlying political, multiparty politicshadon Tanzanian life One of that theintroduction of theeffects Tanzania Today balloting inlate 2005. following another criticalpoint onZanzibar tensions have continued tosimmer,reaching onlymodestatbest,and this fronthasbeen progresssolution tothecrisis. However, on the archipelago andnegotiating along-term was signedaimedatendingthe strife on agreement dialogue. through An accord CUF initiated renewed attempts toreach theisland. porarily flee deaths andcausingmanyPembans totem- force, resulting dozen inatleast several government units responded security with onstrators greatly outnumbered thepolice, On Pemba, where aCUFstronghold dem- tions illegal,buttheywere heldanyway. The government declared thedemonstra- for demonstrationstoprotest theresults. troversial. InJanuary 2001theCUFcalled con- theballotingwasagainhighly ever, how- OnZanzibar, Mkapa andtheCCM. decisive victoryforincumbent president with out incidentonthemainland,witha working ontheislandsleft. ance wassuspendedandmostexpatriates foreignensuing uproar, assist- development incumbentSalminAmour.ing CCM Inthe resudespite official believed tohave won Hamad, Shariff candidate, Seif waswidely The oppositionCivicUnited Front(CUF) universally denouncedforitsdishonesty. presidency was the votingforZanzibari Archipelago, however, ing. OntheZanzibar 62% of thevote in relatively smoothballot- Mkapa,won underBenjamin land, theCCM, 1995 inanatmosphere of chaos. Onthemain- oppositionparties. legalise and in1992theconstitutionwasamendedto erated themove towardsmultipartypolitics, pressure from Western donornations,accel- ropean communismintheearly1990s,and presidency wasunpopular. Thefallof Eu- of change remained slow,andMwinyi’s an economicrecovery program.Yet thepace from Nyerere andhispolicies,instituted In thewake of and theviolence,CCM In October2000theelectionsproceeded The first electionswere heldinOctober lts margin ally the pre www.lonelyplanet.com sidential seat sidential seat favour- be given agentle reminder should you for- Greetings are and you’ll probably essential, place apremium onpoliteness andcourtesy. subtle but strongsocial code. Tanzanians front ininterpersonal dealings. ( opposite ) – theyrarely cometothefore- Archipelago at recent ontheZanzibar events political differencesAlthough flare up–look side byina relatively easycoexistence. minimal, withChristians andMuslimsliving permeate society. Religiousfrictionsare also opment sinceindependence. ate outlookthathascharacterised its devel- andmoder- thestable forward, maintaining thatTanzaniahigh willcontinuetomove in theshortterm. chances However, are situation mayresult insomegrowingpains of theopposition. Progressing beyondthis entrenchment of andsplintering theCCM steps backwardsinrecentseveral years with tohavenia. Ifanything,thisseems taken the future of multipartypoliticsinTanza- eign Minister. Perhaps more significantis by CCM’s Jakaya Kikwete, theformerFor- elections, which were woninalandslide ing anotherterm inthe2005presidential was constitutionallyprevented fromseek- that have plaguedsomeof itsneighbours. would disintegrate intothetribalconflicts unlikelyconsider ithighly thatthecountry eration andbalance,mostobservers for themselves intheregion for theirmod- mainland. Tanzanians have earnedaname and ethnictolerance,particularlyonthe with comparatively of levels high religious whole remains reasonably wellintegrated, situation notwithstanding –Tanzania asa most visibleexample. Yet –theZanzibar involving thearchipelago are perhapsthe Archipelago.and theZanzibar Thetensions themainlandthe mainlandandbetween www.lonelyplanet.com nian, andthe primary identificationisalwaysas aTanza- accordingtotribe; themselves attheoutset existent. It’srare foraTanzanian toidentify neighbours, tribalrivalriesare almostnon- IncontrasttoKenyaattributable. andother harmonious andunderstated is demeanour to thisfactthatthecountry’sremarkably aTanzanian,It takes alottoruffle and it’s NationalPsyche The CULTURE THE The workings of society are oiled bya On thepoliticalfront,President Mkapa ujamaa ideals of JuliusNyerere around apotof pump orriver. Mealtimes typically centre outside andwater drawn fromanearby roofing of corrugated tinorthatch, alatrine zanians isof cinderblockormudbrick, with areas of DaresSalaam,homeformost Tan- in poshresidentialWestern-style houses some impressive, you’llsee side. Although inevitable home? First callout insideaTanzanianWant totake apeek Daily Life (brother); or mama are frequently addressed as rural areasand strangers curtsey, byaslight ‘I holdyourfeet’), often accompaniedin elders witharespectful zanian children are trainedtogreet their of yourlistener andhisorherfamily.Tan- without first enquiringastothewellbeing get intoaquestion thisandlaunch straight ing a small children spending much of their daywork- thebeat, withwomenand rural rhythms set and withsauce, served or asimilar staple - and/or -based national dish) its ownflag. 2005 thearchipelagoeven beganflying of thepiethantheynowhave. Inearly with abitmore autonomyandalarger share Zanzibar, mostZanzibariswouldbehappy rently callingfor acompletely independent the ZanzibarArchi pelago. other nonunionmatters onthe islandsof education for respon sible fence, whiletheZanzibargovernment is and tele communications systems andde- over foreign andmonetarypolicy,postal (CUF). istheCivicUnited Front opposition party popular vote terms. forfive-year The major seat NationalAssembly are elected bydirect dent andmembersoftheunicameral295- (CCM; Party oftheRevolution).The presi- dent andtherulingChamaChaMapinduzi cracy, executive powerrests withthepresi- In Tanzania’s demo- fledglingmultiparty GOVERNMENTAL AFFAIRS Although noseriouspoliticiansare cur- The uniongovernment hasjurisdiction , in the case of, inthecase an olderwoman; ‘karibu’ shamba ndugu TANZANIA ••TheCulture ugali (welcome),andstep in- (farm plot). (relative orcomrade). ‘hodi’ (the stiff and doughy anddoughy (thestiff shikamoo , infrastructure and , thenwaitforthe dada (literally, (sister); kaka 109

TANZANIA TANZANIA men. Village administrators (knownas cupation forwomen,andbreadwinning for everyone. Child-raisingistheexpected oc- munity) isassumed,andcelebrationsinvolve helping outothers inthe community begins.Doors are alwaysopen, hard toknowwhere thefamilyendsand the it’ssometimes plays acentralrole,although berculosis, orwithsilence. deaths are commonlyexplainedawayastu- real publicdiscussionislimited, andAIDS boards andpublicawareness campaigns, rate hasprompted aspate of bill- followingindependence.chieftaincies a legacyof Nyerere’s abolishmentof local rangehowever, fromweaktonon existent – ior communitymembers. Tribalstructures, withothersen- decisionsinconsultation tant oversee things,andmakeon Zanzibar) impor- tinent) and Arabic populations, concen- Asian (primarily from theIndian subcon- pot are small buteconomically significant Persia (Iran). FillingoutTanzania’s melting scendants of immigrants fromShiraz in rican population considerthemselves de- onPemba.these Members of thenon-Af- zibar Archipelago, with aboutone-thirdof or aboutonemillion people,live ontheZan- linguistic family. ethno- Eyasi), belongtotheKhoisan Lake and, more theHadzabe distantly, (around Gorowa andBurungi,whilethe Sandawe as are thetinynorthern-centraltribesof northwest of Manyara, Lake are Cushitic, who live inthearea aroundKaratu and Nilo-Hamitic orNilotic origin.TheIraqw, groups (allinnorthernTanzania) are of smaller manjaro). TheMaasai andseveral (aroundMtKili- Bukoba) andtheChagga (southeastern Tanzania), theHaya (around Victoria),theMakondeand southernLake the Sukuma(wholive around Mwanza origin,thelargestBantu groupsincluding third of population. thetotal of themcombinedaccountingforonlyone- most tribesare very small,withalmost 100 Europeans andmore. Despite thediversity, to120tribalgroups,plusAsians,close , Tanzania’s withthebloodof heartpulses Population 110 As elsewhere intheregion, familylife While Tanzania’s 8%adult HIV/AIDS About 3%of Tanzania’s population, total The vastmajority of Tanzanians are of TANZANIA ••Religion jamaa (clan,com- shehe shehe folk tales. yangu works are the autobiographical style. Amonghis best-known Swahili prose ofsponsible forthedevelopment amodern andwasalmostsingle-handedly re-poet, Tanga, is considered thecountry’snational ert (1909–62).Robert, whowasbornnear renowned andwriter poet Shaaban Rob- Tanzania’s literary scene isdominated by Literature ARTS andHinducommunities. tiny Christian ago isalmostexclusively SunniMuslim,with ary activitysincethemid-19thcentury. acentreMoshi, which hasbeen of mission- concentration isinthenortheast around routes. Oneof theareas of Christian highest the inlandtownsthatlineold caravan traditionally foundalongthecoast andin of and Ismailis.Muslimsare Hindus,Sikhs religions. There are alsosmallcommunities tian. Theremainder followtraditional 40%and45% arelim andbetween Chris- About 35%to40%of Tanzanians are Mus- RELIGION Archipelago.Zanzibar Mt Kilimanjaro,theMwanzaregion, andthe ambara andPare theslopesof Mountains, theUs-Salaam andthesurroundingcoast, populated areasmost densely are Dares cally fromonearea tothenext.Among square kilometre, thisvaries radi- although erage populationdensityis39people per about 4.9%peryearinDaresSalaam.Av- ber of citydwellers issteadily growing,at of population. thetotal dwellers constitutingonlyaboutone-third countries insub-SaharanAfrica,withurban plus asmallEuropeancommunity. trated inmajor citiesandalongthecoast, The population of the Zanzibar Archipel- The populationof theZanzibar Tanzania isoneof theleasturbanised and Babati, in north-central Tanzania.and Babati,innorth-central live inclosestproximity Eyasi aroundLakes Cushitic, They(Bantu, Nilo-Hamitic, Khoisan). main conti nent’s ing indigenousinhabitantsfromallofthe Tanzania istheonlyAfrican countryboast- AFRICA’S MELTING POT (My Life), collections of and several ethnolinguistic families www.lonelyplanet.com However, However, the num- the Maisha Maisha found inawidevarietyof shapesandsizes, and, of course, varying lengths), the type of strips of thumb pianowithmetal tion womenwriters of Swahililiterature. dren’s books,wasoneof thefew first-genera- (Hardships) playsandchil- aswellseveral whoauthoredBalisidya, thenovel Boy, many shortstories,including and TolowaMarti Mollel,whohasauthored and for Sun; Palangyo, whowrote thenovel of English- worksincludePeter UK’s Booker Prizein1994. during WWI,madetheshortlistfor novel in1948.His nah, whowasbornonZanzibar contemporary writers is Abdulrazak Gur- dramatist EbrahimHussein. Shafi, Mbeleand short-storywriter Joseph novelistworks includeZanzibari Shafi Adam authorsOther notable of Swahili-language ered thefounderof Swahilipopularliterature. (Graveyard of theAncestors), andisconsid- fame withhis bari Muhammed SaidAbdulla, whogained www.lonelyplanet.com pany singing).Others includethe church choirs andothergroupstoaccom- with grainkernels that’sfrequently by used instruments isthe One of themostcommontraditional musical & Dance Music Other contemporary Tanzanian authors One of Tanzania’s mostwidelyacclaimed Almost aswell-knownRobertisZanzi- is in Swahili, while secondary-level anduniversity is in English. is in Swahili, instruction school with anadditionaltwo yearsrequired foruniversity entrance. Primary-school instruction years ofprimary school,which are free and–intheory –compulsory,plus fouryearsofsecondary although muchofthis initialmomentumhassincebeen lost. free and compulsory.Bythelate 1980sTanzania’s literacy rate was oneofthehighestinAfrica, offered government assistance tovillagesbuildtheirownschools and madeprimaryeducation During theearlyyears ofhispresidency hesetaside14%ofthenationalbudget foreducation, success forhisphilosophy ofsocialismandself-reliance layinhavinganeducated populace. This tothelegacyof JuliusNyerere, isdueinlarge part to whowasconvincedthatthekey average about70%foradults) are somewhat higherthanthoseinmanyneighbouring countries. 7% ofstudentsenrolled.Yet, statistic,literacy despite rates thisrathershocking inTanzania (which Tanzania hasoneofthelowestrates ofsecondary-school enrolmentintheworld,withlessthan BACK TOBASICS aretelling of alocalMaasai legend. May WilliamKamera (knownforhispoetry Today Tanzania’s educational system is looselymodelled onthatofBritain.There are seven Paradise, Tales of the Wairaqw of Tanzania which is set in East Africa inEast which isset ngoma Mzimu wawatu wakale kayamba marimba (drums).Drumsare (ashaker made (xylophone) The Orphan Dying inthe mbira Shida (a );

of undiluted andoften unmixed enameland tinctive characteristics of thestyleisits use chrome background.Oneof themostdis- coloured againstamono- animalmotifsset in asquare format,andfeature brightly inga paintingsare traditionallycom posed mand fromtheEuropeanmarket. Tingat- who beganitinthe1960sresponse tode- artistEdwardSaidiTingatinga, self-taught Tingatinga, which takes itsnamefromthe Tanzania’s best-knownschool of paintingis Painting or dances. with mostcorresponding toparticulartribes weddings. ‘Harusi’, whichatTanzanian isstillastaple who diedin2004,wasknownforhissong In additiontohisAfro70band,Balisidya, figure fromthe1970swasPatrick Balisidya. Orchestra SafariSound(IOSS).Apopular Mlimani Park International anditsoffshoot see p39 . Otherwell-knowngroupsinclude Ongala andhisOrchestre SuperMatimila, Remmy Ongala(‘DrRemmy’);formore on of thecountry’smostfamousmusiciansis inNairobiandelsewhere.at nightclubs One herebands thatstart later goingontoplay the mostdynamicinregion, withmany oneofmusic scenehastraditionallybeen p142 for more on and theMakua. (who are famousfortheir in theinitiationceremonies of theMakonde southeast, where role itplaysanimportant Thanks to state subsidies,Tanzania’sThanks tostate See See p39 formore on localmusic.See The mainplaceformasked danceisinthe taarab TANZANIA ••Arts music. mapiko masks)

111 TANZANIA TANZANIA focuses on the annual wildebeest migration. ontheannualwildebeest focuses was shotinbothTanzania andKenya, and including nia’s wildlife have filmedonlocation, been Gardner andGraceKelly. and Katharine Hepburn andHumphrey Bogart; and inDaresSalaam. are inthesoutheastonMakonde Plateau country’s major centres of Makonde carving see ebonywoodcarvings; stylised p40 . The and highly Africafortheirbeautiful East throughout known are Makonde Tanzania’s &Woodcarving Sculpture 1951 classic at leastinpartTanzania includethe filmsshot titles mentionedinthatsection, more. for p38 of those othercountriesintheregion. See genous filmindustryholdsitsownwith Despite itsminiscule size,Tanzania’s indi- Cinema contemporary Tanzanian artists. ya Sanaa( p124 ) alsohostsexhibitionsby contemporary Tanzanian artscene. Nyumba the bestplacestoget acquainted withthe . the vendors alongHurumziStinZanzibar’s Slipway ( p124 ), alsoinDaresSalaam, and es Salaam.OthergoodspotsincludeMsasani Society ( p124 ) nearMorogoroStores inDar ings isattheTingatinga Arts Cooperative their characteristic shinyappearance. paints,whichhigh-gloss give thepaintings 112 Rift Valley. Edging thisis a narrow, low- of thegeological fault known asthe Great theeastern andwesternbetween branches 900m and 1800minaltitude, andnestled plateau,tral highland averaging between Much of themainlandconsistsof acen- lakesthe deep of theWestern RiftValley. by theIndianOcean, andtothewestby the sizeof theUK.It’sbordered to theeast over 943,000 sqkm,oralmostfourtimes Tanzania Africa’slargest –East country–is Land The ENVIRONMENT Art Centre Art Numerous documentaries aboutTanza-Numerous documentaries In additiontotheTanzanian-produced Mawazo ArtGallery( p123 ) and The bestplacetobuyTingatinga paint- TANZANIA ••Environment Mogambo

(Msasani Slipway,DaresSalaam) Africa: TheSerengetiAfrica: The African Queen, The African (1953),withClarkGable,Ava (1994),which are among starring Wasanii orchid species –is another highlight. –bursting with over 50 Arc range are impressive of stands baobab. in theworld. Southandwest of theEastern plants, many of which are found nowhere else forest provide home toarich assortmentof range, where smallpatches of tropicalrain- the continentsurpass Tanzania’s Arc Eastern If you’re interested inplants,few placeson PLANTS more onendangered species, see p74 . green pigeon andtheUsambara weaver. For the Udzungwaforest partridge, thePemba places). SpeciesuniquetoTanzania include Crater, Natron,amongother andLake Magadiflamingos (Lake intheNgorongoro Wami rivers), Victoria)and fisheagles(Lake Amani), bee-eaters (alongtheRufijiand various typesof kingfisher, hornbills(around are over 1000speciesof birds,including antelopes.both roanandsable Ruaha NationalParks hostpopulations of herds.Kataviparks, andforitsbuffalo and and zebrasfoundespeciallyinits northern also knownforthelarge herdsof wildebeest Ngorongoro Crater ( p199 ). Thecountryis inSerengeti NationalParkseen ( p193 ) and cats, especiallylions,which are routinely largest onthecontinent,andforitslarge its elephantpopulation,which isoneof the on p73 . Tanzania for isparticularlynotable African animalsmentionedunderWildlife cies andsubspecies,includingallthe‘classic’ wild animalsare representatives of 430spe- Among Tanzania’s more thanfourmillion ANIMALS Wildlife (forming theborderwithMozambique). the Wami,Pangani andtheRuvuma Other major waterways includetheRuvu, region.drains theSouthernHighlands Great RiftValley innorthernTanzania. fromthesideof thatrises the Highlands, a range of knownastheCrater volcanoes, orSouthernArc).ThereHighlands isalso (the Southern central andsouthernsection Arc),andanopen,rolling(the Eastern into asharplyrisingnortheastern section Tanzania’s ranges mountain are grouped Victoria basin. the enormous,shallowLake strip,andinthenorthwestis lying coastal Complementing thisterrestrial wealth The largest river istheRufiji,which www.lonelyplanet.com the countryiscovered by reserves, see see reserves, p76 . letsyoumixbeach andbush. Reserve lar interest tobird-watchers. SaadaniGame National Park Victoriaisof inLake particu- its large herdsof wildlife. RubondoIsland andremotezees, Katavi NationalPark, with where themaindrawcardsare thechimpan- andGombeStreamtains NationalParks, over larger areas. just asimpressive, it’s often although spread more of awildernessfeel andthewildlife is Mostareasthat thenorthdoes. tend tohave tothenumberof close visitors see doesn’t ceiving increasing attention, itstill although re- –hasbeen GameReserve and theSelous National Parksand UdzungwaMountains sibility of itswildlife. concentration,diversitythe high andacces- the northerncircuit’smainattractionsare visited. Inadditiontothenaturalbeauty, well equippedwithfacilitiesandheavily sult, allof placesare these easilyaccessible, jaro NationalParks andtheNCA.As are- Manyara, Tarangire, Arusha andKiliman- so-called northerncircuit:Serengeti, Lake ism have almostexclusively focused onthe protected marinereserves. Area (NCA),twomarineparksandseveral theNgorongoroConservation life reserves, areas includes14nationalparks,13wild- Tanzania’s unrivalledcollectionof protected National Parks&Reserves www.lonelyplanet.com tional Parks Authority All parksare managed bythe NATIONAL PARKS fees forNgorongoro Crater andSaadani and thefollowing table. Guide and vehiclesee cash. For accommodation andguidefees, paid inhard currency, preferably US dollars –must be individual parklistingsfor details 250 4082;www.tanzaniaparks.com) good drainage. the Serengeti Plainandotherareas thatlack bushland andthickets, whilegrasslandscover dry centralplateau iscovered withsavanna, ous typesof woodland, where themainvegetation isvari- Away from the mountain ranges,Away fromthemountain much of For an overview ofFor anoverview themajor parks and In western Tanzania are Mahale Moun- The ‘southerncircuit’–Ruaha,Mikumi Until recently, andtour- development Brachystegia

(Tanapa; (Tanapa; tree. Much of the miombo % . Entry fees – see . Entryfees –see 027-250 3471,027- Tanzania Na- or‘moist’ es Salaam) 286 6376,022-2866064;cnrNyerere &ChangombeRds,Dar concessions. many others have as hunting leased been with touristinfrastructure. Large areas of are theonlyreserves Saadani andSelous –shouldbepaidinUSdollarsdetails cash. rine parks, see rine parks,see p240 and p247 ForinformationonTanzania’sreserves. . ma- Upanga, DaresSalaam) OlympioSt, 0420, 022-2150621;[email protected]; as a result of agricultural andcommercial 3500 sqkmofnia loses forest land annually wealth. According tosome estimates, Tanza- tion continue towhittleaway atthenatural anddeforesta- degradation, desertification anderosion,soil efforts, per conservation tage sites, see p25 ), limited resources - UnescoWorldHeri-form, includingseveral country (about39% isprotected insome proportions of protected landof anyAfrican TanzaniaAlthough hasoneof thehighest Environmental Issues ism’s The Ministryof NaturalResources&Tour- MARINE PARKS &RESERVES &Tourism ofNaturalResources Ministry administered bythe is managed byTanapa, are wildlife reserves butname,and national parkineverything With theexceptionof Saadani,which isa WILDLIFE RESERVES for aTanzania-registered car). day foraforeign-registered car(TSh10,000 andvehiclewalking safaris) fees of US$40per day (US$15forovernight andUS$20for - 20(MtKilimanjaro 10 Other costsincludeguidefees of US$10per 5 - Banda orHut 30(Gombe 50 (Serengeti, Resthouse (5-15yrs) 30 Hostel 10 - Special campsite (16yrs+) Ordinary campsite Accommodation US$ accommodation, see p249 . Forgeneralsections. informationonpark are given inthose GameReserves Selous US$ Stream 20) Katavi) Arusha,Ruaha, 50) Marine Parks & Reserves Unit Parks &Reserves Marine . Fees individuallistings for –see TANZANIA ••Environment oversees marineparks and Wildlife Divisionofthe

( %

( % 022-215

113 022- TANZANIA TANZANIA making for made fromabatter similartothatused you’re likely tojustfind Western-style restaurants. Insmallertowns to places toeat,ranging fromlocalfoodstalls sold; tap water should be avoided.sold; tap Tanzania’s option is street food. are andoften inthe evening, closed the only meal isat noon;inruralareas, manyplaces Themain fish withriceor another staple. chicken, or beef formal restaurants) serving bar, lookfor treat, especiallyinthesoutheast.OnZanzi- tiny, thickpancakes –are anothermorning bua if youare outintheearlymorning. ring bubblingpotsof itonthestreet corners millet orotherflour. Watch for ladiesstir- uji, bags. Many Tanzanians theirdaywith start usually drunkwithastrawout of plastic tured milkproductssimilartoyogurt, are Refreshingstalls. everywhere, grilledover atstreet thecoals (marinated meatkebabs) are foundalmost is dish national unofficial Tanzania’s FOOD &DRINK zania issues isthe eral lodges andothertouristdevelopments. communities are nowstakeholders insev- andlocal munities directly inconservation, madeinrecentbeen years toinvolve com- made inhaltingthispractice. areas, significantprogress although hasbeen on thearchipelago andinmainlandcoastal threat, aserious both fishing hasalsobeen andPembaZanzibar nowgone. Dynamite forestthe tropicalhigh thatonce covered on theoffshore islands,withabout 95%of ecosystems. Deforestation isalsoaproblem the northerncircuit–threaten wildlife and –especiallyin and inappropriate visitoruse clearing. Inthenationalparks,poaching 114 more on what you can do to help, see more onwhatyoucandotohelp,see p19 . ( mishikaki ing toforeign palates than p41 . Otherfavourites –mostmore appeal- For more onthisandotherlocalcuisinesee % In major towns,there’s of agoodselection Bottled water and soft drinks are widely The best local contact on environmental onenvironmental The bestlocalcontact On thepositive side,great progress has a thin, sweet porridge athin,sweet madefrombean, 022-211 2518; [email protected]; Garden Ave)022-211 2518;[email protected]; Garden DARESSALAAM••History –smallricecakes vaguelyresembling

Arusha vitambua , (www.wcstarusha.org; BomaSt); mtindi Wildlife Conservation SocietyofTan- Wildlife Conservation mkate wakumimina, . mtindi and mgando and hoteli ugali mgando (small,in- . –include Mishikaki Dar esSalaam abread Vitam- ugali , cul- . For .

Dodoma in1973. thelegislaturealthough wastransferred to undisputed political andeconomic capital, Since then thecityhasremained Tanzania’s moved to Dar esSalaam. fromBagamoyo the colonialadministration wasofficially than thedhowport inBagamoyo. In 1891 bour asabetter alternative forsteamships viewed Dares Salaam’s protected har- colonial government,the German which for zibar totheinterior, and thenasaseat missionaries making theirwayfromZan- significance, first forChristian asastation 1880s thatDaresSalaamassumed new dhow porttothenorth.Itwasn’t untilthe overshadowed animportant byBagamoyo, and thetownsunkagainintoanonymity, died the harbourbegun,thansultan of Peace). of Nosoonerhaddevelopment and namedthesite DaresSalaam(Haven land harbourintoaportandtrading centre, thearea’s decidedtodevelop in- Zanzibar Sayyid Majidcoast. Inthe1860sSultan of village, oneof African manyalongtheEast Dar esSalaamwasjustahumble fishing Until themid-19thcentury,what isnow HISTORY ferry rideaway. (see p126 –justashort ), orheadtoZanzibar beaches northandsouthofaccessed town days. several busy foratleast and goodrestaurants tokeep mostvisitors there are historicbuildings,shops enough While there’s nottoomuch toactuallydo, tiestoitsSwahili roots. influences, andclose triguing mixof African,ArabicandIndian able place,withapicturesque anin- seaport, Dar esSalaamisadown-to-earth,manage- butname.in everything Yet, despite itssize, Salaam isTanzania’s major city,and capital and anarea of more than1350sqkm,Dares With apopulationof nearlythree million % DAR ESSALAAM can beachallenge. elsewhere intheregion –findingonecold isusuallynoproblem,but–as ing abeer various Kenyan beers. Find- andGerman and Lager Kilimanjaro labels,plusCastle array of beers includesthelocalSafariand For abreak fromthebustle,tryeasily 022 www.lonelyplanet.com Office out bythe short jauntaway. beaches tothesouthandnorthare only a butmuch Oyster better near Bay, Beach, dential areas of andMsasani. Oyster Bay diplomaticandupmarketdeveloping resi- Bridge, thefast- then, after crossingSelander upper-middle of classsection Upangaand from here alongthecoast,youfirst reach the north Proceeding Gardens andState House. streets Botanical withtheNationalMuseum, Askari monument,are shady, tree-lined neighbourhoods of Kariakoo andIlala. Mmoja Park are butcolourful therougher scents fromthesubcontinent.Westof Mnazi is chock-a-block withIndiantraders and Samora Ave, aroundIndiaandJamhuri Sts, Askari monument.Thearea northwestof Samora Ave fromtheclocktowerto reaus, shopsandstreet vendors, runsalong The congested centre, withbanks,forex bu- ORIENTATION www.lonelyplanet.com The Maps unwieldy tomanage whilewalkingaround. ofgood overview thestreet it’s layout,though 2pm Mon-Fri) The city’smainstretch of isatCoco sand On theothersideof town,northeastof Africa’s majormetropolises. be treated tosea breezes andglimpses ofthewater, andit’seasytoforget you’re inoneofEast near thecoast, andagenerally languidatmosphere. onMsasani Peninsula, Tothenorth, you’ll style houses liningunpaved patches ofcoconutpalms intheareas roadways, smallmarkets, outlying neighbourhoods tothesouthandwestmood changes,withunassumingSwahili- buildings, although everything’s stillrelatively small-scaleand manageable,even on foot.Inthe it’s agoodplaceto stockupandgetthingsdoneifyou’ve beenontheroad forawhile. in understandingTanzania, level, asit’sthecountry’spolitical andeconomichub.Onapractical pace andsofter edgethannearbyNairobi.DaresSalaam alsomeritsavisitifyou’re interested sive with anotablyslower moneychangersinthecentralarea, ‘Dar’isalaid-back placeatheart, affection forit.Awayfromthecongestion,noiseandsomemoderatelyadmit toacertain aggres- pared withotherAfrican urban areas. Manylong-term visitorswould–albeit grudgingly –even the city( p126 ) are easilyaccessed,andhave plentyofaccommodationpossibilities. yourself here andsouthof forthenight andare thebeachesnorth unhappyabouttheprospect, sary toovernight inDaresSalaamthanksto frequent flightsandferry connections. Ifyoudofind overland. Even circuitparkswithZanzibar,it’snotusuallyneces- ifyou’re combining thenorthern (KIA),orbyflyingintoEntebbe andthen entering (Uganda)orNairobi(Kenya), TanzaniaAirport It’s quite easythesedaystobypass DaresSalaamentirely International byusingKilimanjaro SKIP DARESSALAAM? Dar es SalaamCity Map &Guide

The centralarea isdominated byconcrete andanever-increasing numberofglitzyhigh-rise Yet, whileyou’llfindfew peopleravingaboutthecity,it’sreally notthatbad,especiallycom- (Map (Map 18; c p118 ; , iswidelyavailable andgives a Surveys & Mapping Division Map Sales DivisionMap &Mapping Surveys nr Kivukoni Front &Luthuli St; nr Kivukoni h , put 8am- fiction, travel guides, Africa titles,mapsandmore. travelguides,Africa fiction, & SamoraAve) Dar’sbestbookshop,withclassics,modern Cliff Hotel,MsasaniPeninsula); sula); Msasani Slipway Traffic police Baypolicestation Oyster Flying Doctors/Amref policestation Central Emergency Centre; Map p118 ; OhioSt) Nyumba yaSanaa Council British Alliance Française Centres Cultural Idea A Novel Bookshops INFORMATION maps atthetouristinformationcentre. For somethingsmaller,tryoneof thefree africaonline.co.tz; AliHassanMwinyiRd) Toure Dr) North ofCocoBeach;forMsasaniPeninsula.Toure Dr)North cnrOhioSt&SamoraAve).britishcouncil.org/tanzania; Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Railway Station. Sokoine Dr)NeartheCentralLineRailway Near the Central Line Railway Station. Near theCentralLineRailway emergency evacuations; see emergency evacuations; p625 formembershipdetails. www.amref.org; AliHassanMwinyiRd,Upanga)For Nairobi emergency Sea CliffVillage •• Orientation DAR ESSALAAM••Orientation ( (Map (Map (Map (Map p118 ; % Mp p118; (Map % (Map (Map 260 1088; www.anovelidea-africa.com) 260 1088;www.anovelidea-africa.com) p116 ; (Map (Map p116 ; (Mwalimu JuliusKNyerere Cultural 254-20-315454, 254-20-602492; Mp p118; (Map 16; Sea ; p116 Mp p118; (Map Msasani Slipway,Penin- % % Mp p118; (Map Steers 211 1747;SokoineDr) % 211 6574/5;www (Map (Map Cliff Village, next to Sea Cliff Village, next % % 213 1406;afdar@ p118 ; % 211 6610, 211 5507; 266 7332; cnr OhioSt

115 TANZANIA ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

TANZANIA Dar esSalaam 116 (7km); NorthernBeaches(25km) University ofDaresSalaam New WorldCinema(3.7km); Carvers' Market(3.5km); Club(1.5km);Mwenge To VillageMuseum(1km); Park (245km);Arusha(635km) (195km); MikumiNational Chalinze (110km);Morogoro To UbungoBusStation(6km); 4

6 1 3 2

5 DAR ESSALAAM Morogoro Rd Morogoro DARESSALAAM Mikocheni

INFORMATION Belgian Embassy...... Barclays ATM...... (see29) Alliance Française...... (see3) Aga KhanHealthClinic...... (see30) A NovelIdea...... (see30) A NovelIdea...... (see29)

IST MedicalClinic&International Democratic Republicofthe School...... Irish Embassy...... Indian HighCommission...... French Embassy...... CongoEmbassy...... Burundian Embassy...... (see7) New 14 Ilala

Uhuru St

Bagamoyo Rd Kawawa AC 26 Pugu Hills (15km); Kisarawe (25km) To TazaraTrain Airport (10km);

Station (4km);

23 17 Rd

Ursino St Msasani 27 Msasani

Bay

Old

8

Bag

Rashidi a Kawawa Rd Rd moyo 12 Kariakoo

Kinondoni Kinondoni Rd Kinondoni

1 25 6 5 4 3 2 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Kimweri C5 B2 B2 B4 B4 C5

Namanga Nyerere Rd Ave

33

Amani St 16 31 Msimbazi S Dar esSalaam 29

e 20 13 Yacht Club 35 l a 22

n er B

d C r St e 4

e Chole Rd Ali Hassan Ali Ghuba Rd k Oyster 5 Gerezani St Peter's 32 Bay

United Mindu St Church

3

Ru Mwi Haile Lumumba St Lumumba Selassie Rd

34 Nations

Masaki vu

Rd nyi sa 6 Rd M

Upanga sani Peninsula

Kaunda Msasani St 19 11 R 18 d 30 ὈὈ ὄ ὄ See CentralDaresSalaamMap(p118) Bibi Titi Mohamed Rd 7 Ke Oyster ny Central Line 9 Bay 28 24 Band at Railway

Station Dr Coco Beach

10 t Selander

2 a Oyster 21 Bridge

ari St Msimbazi Dr Bay

Rd

Bay Kilwa Toure Dr 15 1 Some MinorRoads not Depicted To Temeke(3.5km); (250km); Kilwa Masoko (320km) Ὀ Ὀ

2km 1mile 0 0 Ocean Rd Ocean INFORMATION (cont) Protea DaresSalaam aaaaJnto aiSad. B3 Daladala Junction&TaxiStands.. Tingatinga Centre&Morogoro Shopper's Plaza& Seaside ForexBureau...... (see30) Rwandan Embassy...... Oyster BayPoliceStation...... Kenyan HighCommission...... Kearsley Travel...... (see30) Italian Embassy...... Scandinavian BusTerminal...... Evergreen CarRentals...... Daladalas toKisarawe...... Stores...... Seacliff Village...... Msasani Slipway...... New MsasaniClub...... (see12) California Dreamers...... Turquoise...... (see 30) Sweet Eazy...... (see18) Shoprite...... (see 29) Supermarket...... Saverio's...... La TrattoriaJan...... Garden Bistro...... Addis inDar...... Swiss GardenHotel...... Souk...... (see 29) Sea CliffHotel...... Apartments...... Palm BeachHotel...... Oyster BayHotel...... Msimbazi CentreHostel...... Msasani SlipwayApartments...(see29) Hotel Karibu...... Courtyard...... Akana Lodge...... Kariakoo Market...... US Embassy...... Ugandan HighCommission...... Standard CharteredATM...... (see27) TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES www.lonelyplanet.com Salaam Bay Dar es Kigamboni D To Zanzibar; 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 Pemba B5 C1 B3 B5 B3 A6 B3 C5 A3 B6 A3 B3 C5 B3 A3 B5 B6 B6 B6 B3 B1 B2 B4 A3 A3 B3 B1 A3 Dr; perhrTSh1000; Tanganyika. campusoftheInternationalSchool on theMasaki 9am-noonSat)AWestern-run clinicfound 6pm Mon-Fri, RuvuSt; 0744-783393; [email protected]; port; port; Samora Ave; perhrTSh1000; doctors oncall. doctors orbyappointment)Western 12.30pm &2-4.30pmMon-Fri, Village,MsasaniPeninsula;0748-911111; Seacliff times at newsstands downtown. times atnewsstands available fromtop-endhotels, andsome- International newspapers andmagazinesare Media Café Internet Mealz Kool Surfing Café Hotspot Internet TSh500; Café Alpha Internet Access Internet Wizara yamambondani Immigration Office www.lonelyplanet.com Galaxy Forex Bureau Forex Galaxy Upanga Rd; Outlet LocalCurrency Coastal Travels’ Express American Samora Ave. tered aroundthecentre of townonornear best rates forexchange; there are manyscat- and Forex bureaus give thefastest service Money Centre Medical Regency Clinic IST Medical HealthClinic Khan Aga gency service. All listingshere provide 24-houremer- Services Medical med Rd. St) InUpanga,justoffBibiTiti215 2966;Allykhan Moham- St. Mon-Sat, 9am-10pmSun)JustoffJamhuri 9am-7pm Sat,9.30am-2pmSun) applications, until3pmforvisacollection) cnr GhanaAve &OhioSt; to the right asyou exitcustoms. to the right US$1500 againstanAmex card. stolen checks,butissues US-dollartravellerschequesupto to Citibank;nocashadvancesandreplacement of next Travels, UpangaRd)AtRickshaw [email protected]; transaction; higher amountsavailablewith advancenotice. transaction; UptoUS$500per commission) usingVisaorMasterCard. draw Tanzanian shillings(ordollars, foranadditional6% h h open for allflights) Cashand travellers cheques; h 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) (Map (Map p118 ; perhrTSh500; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat)With- 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, h Mp p116; (Map Mp p118; (Map (Map (Map (Map (Map p118 Ave;; Garden perhr 8am-9pm Mon-Sat,10am-6pmSun) (International Arrivals Area, Air- (International Arrivals h (Map (Map p118 ; Groundfl,JMMall, Mp p116; (Map Mp p118; (Map h p118 ; 8am-1pm Mon-Fri forvisa 8am-1pm Mon-Fri

Mp p118; (Map % 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, % cnr Pamba Rd&Sokoine 211 0960,4094; 260 1307/8,24hr % % h % 260 1484,24hr Mp p118 ; (Map 215 0500, 8am-10pm h 211 8640/3; h 8am- 8am- customs; cashandtravellerscheques. Airport; Airport; cheque, andhasanATM. St&SokoineDr)Changescashandtravellers Azikiwe h Australia. placed callsfromUS$2.50perminutetoUSA,Europe and Ave; Tanzania Tourist Board Information Centre Tanzania BoardInformationCentre Tourist es SalaamGuide and thetouristinformation centre. The schedules etc;available fromtravel agencies airline monthly magazinewithtidetables, What’s Happening inDares Salaam Information Tourist House Extelecoms hours atnearbyshops. arepost office. Cards sold duringbusiness front of andthemain House Extelecoms areCardphones everywhere, including in Telephone postoffice Main Post Standard Chartered NBC Barclays tered perdayatNBC. andTSh300,000 Char- atStandard perweek TSh1,000,000 a limitof perdayatBarclays, TSh400,000 All ATMs give card,to shillingsonaVisa ATMS Bureau Forex Seaside Royal Palm Bureau Forex National BankofCommerce Bureau Jamani Forex Samora Ave; p118; brochures andcity information. mapsand St,withfree tourist Sat) JustwestofZanaki tors, see tors, see p92 . and trekFor information onsafari opera- Agencies Travel Msasani Slipway. next to Holiday Inn (Garden Ave). toHolidayInn(Garden next (SamoraAve);Sokoine Dr);Shoppers’Plaza;JMMall and Azikiwe St & Sokoine Dr) and next toUbungoBus Terminal. St&SokoineDr)andnext Azikiwe 10am-1pm Sun&holidays) Royal Palm Hotel,OhioSt; restante. 4.30pm 11.30am-6pm) Cashandtravellerscheques. ATMs (cnr atallbranches,includingheadquarters h % Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat)Stamps,lettersandposte Mon-Fri, h 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat)Operator- 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, OppositeMövenpickRoyalPalm Hotelandat DAR ESSALAAM••Information 212 0373,2131555;www.tanzania-web.com; open for all flights) Straight ahead asyouexit open forallflights)Straightahead h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map (Map (Map p118 St&Samora ; cnrBridge hasmore of thesame. At NICLife House(cnrOhioSt& p118; (International Arrivals Area, (InternationalArrivals (Map (Map p116 Village; ; Seacliff h

Cash andtravellerscheques. Mp p1 Mövenpick p118; (Map 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, Maktaba St; Maktaba (NBC; Map (NBC;Map p118 ; cnr h 8am- isafree (Map (Map

Dar 117 TANZANIA Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

TANZANIA [email protected]) Amex agent. [email protected]) northern and southern safari circuitdestinations. andsouthernsafari northern especially recommended fortraveltoZanzibar,and UpangaRd)Flights aroundthecountry; [email protected]; Rickshaw Travels Travels Rickshaw p116; p118; Travel Kearsley Travels Coastal Afri-Roots Central DaresSalaam 118 daladala a rather thantaking take a taxi, At night leave your valuablesin areliable hotel safe. carrying bags orcameras, and,ifpossible, Take theusualprecautions, trytoavoid bag snatching vehicle through windows. markets andfor andbustrainstations, for pickpocketing, particularlyatcrowded gings andthefts. During theday,watch out ithasitsshareNairobi, though of mug- many otherbigcities intheregion, notably Dar esSalaam isconsidered tobesafer than DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Ohio St); cycling, hiking andcamping inandaroundDaresSalaam. cycling, hiking

Mnanzi Mmoja

17

Park St Olympio Lumumba St Lumumba 1 3 2 CENTRAL DARESSALAAM

Kisutu 28

Band St Band DARESSALAAM••Dangers&Annoyances

13 % % Bibi Titi Mohamed Rd Mohamed Titi Bibi Upanga St

Upanga

Uhuru St Uhuru Jamhuri St 260 0538,0467) Ave);211 5026,Garden Lindi St Chagga 45

(minibus) or walking, andavoid Allykhan St

(

St Bibi Titi M % Mosque St Mosque Rd Nyerere AC

36 Libya St Central Line 0744-459887; www.afriroots.co.tz) Budget

(www.kearsleys.com) (www.kearsleys.com)

Railway Mp p118; (Map

St ohamed Rd Station

Morogoro Rd Morogoro Mp p118; (Map Indira Ghandi Rd Zaramo Tower Clock Mövenpick RoyalPalm Hotel

Kisutu St

29 Railway St Railway

56

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44 Mchafukoge St Zanaki Samora Ave Jamhuri St %

% 6 M

ission St ission Sokoine Dr St Maktaba 10 Seacliff Village 211 7959,7960; 42 47 211 0960,4094; 55 40 7

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50 Hassan Ali Mkwepu St Mkwepu 46 Rd 37 51 Holiday Inn 57 41 32 9

Mansfield St 2

Anglican Church St Alban's 33 St Ohio B 39 22 (Map (Map p118 ; (Map (Map 31 12 35 Golf Course Cathedral St Joseph's Monument 52 Old Post 48 (Map (Map Askari Office

Ghana Ave 1

Pamba Rd Pamba Azikiwe St 16 Azikiwe ὈὈ ὈὈ

53 Garden Ave 54 43 26 58 15

14 38 Mirambo St Mirambo h St;adult/child/studentUS$3/1.50/2; 7508; ShaabanRobert The National Museum the city, p126 ) orpointsfurtherafield. beaches are justsouthandnorth of those swimming escape tothebeach (theclosest tokeep youbusyuntilcan be enough of modestselection attractionsshould wise great forbrowsing(see p124 ), anditsother- andmarketsDar esSalaam’scraftstands are &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS packed withlocals). only safe onweekend afternoons, whenit’s (which is Ocean Rd,andonCocoBeach walking alonealongthepathparalleling discoveries of and Sokoine Dr. Samora Ave Gardens, between Botanical the and British colonialperiods. It’snear slave trade,and theGerman the Zanzibar including theShirazi of civilisation Kilwa, scattered displaysonvarious othertopics, man) fromOlduvai Gorge ( p200 ), plus Lutheran Church Azania Front 4 3 5 30 23 9.30am-6pm) Samora Ave 18 National Museum

Sokoine Dr

Botanical

Gardens Shaaban Robert St Robert Shaaban 27

ὈὈ ὈὈ Kivukoni Front Kivukoni 25 ishometothefamous fossil Kivukoni 0.3miles 500m Chimara Rd 0 0 Zinjanthropus 19

Mp p118 ; (Map Luthuli St

www.lonelyplanet.com Magogoni St Magogoni 49 % (nutcracker Dar esSalaam House State D 24 212 2030,211

Bay (600m); South Rd Ocean To Kigamboni Beach (2km) To Zanzibar; Pemba a taxi (TSh5000). a taxi 30minutes) (TSh200, ortakethe museum andget transport stand at off New Posta centre; take theMwenge ances (see p123 ). often traditionalmusicanddanceperform- come isintheafternoon, whenthere are various partsof Tanzania. Thebesttimeto dwellings meanttoshowtraditional life in is acollectionof authenticallyconstructed US$3/1.50/2, camera/videoUS$3/20; St;adult/child/student cnr NewBagamoyoRd&Makaburi Ocean Rd) www.lonelyplanet.com markets, head tothe For agentle initiation intoDares Salaam’s Markets seum The centrepiece of the open-air Museum Village Unit...... Commission...... (see23) Marine Parks&Reserves Malawian High Main PostOffice...... Local CurrencyOutlet...... (see8) Kool Surfing...... Kearsley Travel...... (see27) Hotspot InternetCafé...... (see40) German Embassy...... (see4) Flying Doctors/AMREF...... Extelecoms House...... Dutch Embassy...... (see4) Coastal Travels...... Citibank...... Central PoliceStation...... Canadian HighCommission...... British HighCommission...... British Council...... Barclay's Bank&ATM...... INFORMATION Commission...... Mealz InternetCafé...... Mozambique High Traffic PoliceHeadquarters...... InformationCentre...... MapSalesOffice...... Surveys &MappingDivision ATM...... (see27) Standard CharteredBank& Standard CharteredATM...... (see40) Standard CharteredATM...... Royal PalmForexBureau...... (see31) Rickshaw Travels...... (see7) Rickshaw TravelsBranch...... (see31) Regency MedicalCentre...... ATM...... National BankofCommerce& Tanzania TouristBoard American Express...... (see7) Alpha InternetCafé...... A NovelIdea...... (see38) The museum is10km northofThe museum thecity ( % , near Kivukoni Front. It’s fairly 270 0437;www.homestead.com/villagemuseum/; fish market 21 12 11 10 13 15 14 20 19 18 17 16 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A3 B2 A2 B1 B2 B1 B1 B3 C2 C1 C2 B1 B2 A1 C1 C2 B2 B3 C2 C2 A1 daladala h Hotel...... Wizara yamambo yandani...... loe...... B2 Baraza...... (see 27) Alcove...... Al-Mahdi TeaHouse...... YWCA...... YMCA...... Safari Inn...... (see28) Mövenpick RoyalPalm Luther HouseCentreHostel...... Kibodya Hotel...... Inn...... Holiday Inn...... Harbour ViewSuites...... (see40) Tanzania...... National Museum...... Hippotours &Safaris...... (see41) Fish Market...... Zambian HighCommission...... Club Bilicanas...... Kibo Bar...... (see31) Cynics Café&WineBar...... (see2) Steers...... Shoprite...... (see 40) Serengeti Restaurant...... (see31) Épi d'Or...... Dar ShanghaiRestaurant...... (see30) Chef's Pride...... Mwalimu JuliusKNyerere Wildlife ConservationSocietyof ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES CulturalCentre...... (see41) 9.30am-6pm) Village Mu- Village

Mp p118; (Map from

assortment of shops. Peninsula),of Msasani bothwithagood or Sts) Kariakoo Market Kariakoo friend totake you tothehuge, sprawling ment, get areliable driver taxi orTanzanian Indian Oceandelicacies.Formore excite- pastrowsofwatch fishauctionsorbrowse calm asurbanmarkets go,andyoucan which depart from theiroffice at 7.30am (free, duration isfrom twoto three hours), tion Society of Tanzania’s ( p113 ) bird walks duction is ononeof the Wildlife Conserva- it outside thecentre of town. The bestintro- variety of birdlife, especially onceyoumake Dar esSalaam boastsasurprisinglyrich Bird Walks Western-style shopping,try ables, andwatch outforpickpockets. For DAR ES SALAAM •• Sights & Activities DAR ESSALAAM••Sights&Activities , Tanzania’s largest; don’tbringvalu- Seacliff Village Seacliff 23 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 22 B2 C2 B2 A2 A2 B2 B1 B1 C2 A3 A2 C1 B2 C2 D3 C2 B1 Airlines...... (see30) Swiss International Stesheni TransportStand...... Airways...... South African Skylink...... (see 2) Royal Coach...... (see45) ...... Oman Air...... (see40) Old PostaTransportStand...... New PostaTransportStand...... MV SafariBookingOffice...... Moçambique...... (see40) Linhas Aéreasde KLM...... Kenya Airways...... (see50) Hertz...... (see 31) SouthernBeaches...... Ferry toKigamboni& Mawazo ArtGallery& JM Mall...... SHOPPING Café...... (see32) Yemenia YemenAirways...... (see2) Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Tawfiq...... (see 45) Archipelago...... Ferries toZanzibar ...... (see2) Emirates Airlines...... EgyptAir...... Dar Express...... Daladalas toTemeke...... ...... (see8) British Airways...... (see31) Avis...... (see 2) ...... Air India...... Nyumba yaSanaa...... TRANSPORT

(Map (Map p116 ; cnrMsimbazi&Mkunguni (bothatthenorthern end Msasani Slipway 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 40 48 58 57 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 119 A3 B1 B2 B2 B2 B3 B1 D3 B3 B3 B2 B1 B2 B3 A2 A3 B2 B1 B1

TANZANIA TANZANIA playground. ( p124 ), withice-cream cones andasmall Slipway shopping;andMsasani head off leave yourchild withananny whileyou Hotel ( Cliff to Sea p122 ), where youcan and south of town. Pugu Hills( p128 ), and atthebeaches north credit cards. es Salaam ( p126 ). Alltop-endhotels accept head forthebeaches southornorthof Dar the urbancrush. To avoid thecityentirely, Peninsulaon Msasani are a break from from theairport (about20km),thehotels ortravellinging fortaxis, thedistance lodging isanyway. Ifyoudon’tmindpay- the citycentre, which iswhere most budget cheaper andmore convenient in tostay If you’re relying onpublictransport,it’s SLEEPING supervised pecially theirwater parks(see p127 ); the include thebeaches northof thecity,es- With youngonesintow, gooddiversions FORCHILDREN DAR ESSALAAM month. on thefirst andthelastSaturdayof each 120 The closest places forcampingareThe closest at out for: Sometowatch anybigcity,DaresSalaamhasitscomplementofhustlersandconartists. Like SCAMS DARESSALAAM••DaresSalaamforChildren

should beabletogetawaywithunderUS$50. down aslowyoucan.InitialdemandsmaybehighUS$300,butifyou’re savvy,you insist ongoingtothenearest policestationbefore payinganything,andwhittlethebribe stantly hightailingitintheopposite direction ifyousmellthisscamcoming. Ifyou’re caught, purchase ofillegaldrugs. Oncethey’ve arrived, there’s often littleyoucando,otherthanin- times not)suddenlyappearandinsistthatyoupayahugefineforbeinginvolved inthe Before you’ve themloose,policemen (sometimeslegitimate, hadachance toshake some- those mostinneedwhenchanneledthroughregistered charitiesorchurches. who have signedontohelpthemwithdonations. Yourmoneyhasabetter chanceofreaching usually involvingbeingarefugee fromsomewhere –andshowingyoualistofallthepeople regaling area) youwiththeirtaleofwoe– Anyone (especially whostarts aroundtheport Tanzania orZanzibar). Anyone whotriestosellyouayellow-fever vaccinationcard(nolongerrequired toenter there’s nosuchthingasadiscounted andyou’lljustgetcaughtlater ticket, on. officeswithpromisesofdiscountedsigned) ticket tickets. Unlessyouhave aresident permit, to persuadeyoucomeintotownwiththem–oranywhere otherthanthereal (andwell- Anyone whotriestosellyouZanzibarferry atdiscounted tickets resident prices,orwhotries upaconversationMen whowanttostrike andtrytosellyoumarijuana( play area at Sea Cliff Village, next Cliff atSea lar, Jambo Inn hasfans, flyscreens in the ner from the SafariInn, and alsopopu- evening. It’soff Libya St. evening. Rooms have fans,andare sprayedeach utu, onthewestern edge of thecity centre. .com; s/dTSh10,000/16,500, dwithair-conTSh26,500; shared bathroomUS$10/13) shared bathroomTSh9000/12,000) around themainpostoffice. busy Kisutuarea ortheequallybusy area Most budget lodgingisclustered aroundthe BUDGET City Centre d withair-con TSh24,000; LibyaSt;s/d TSh12,000/16,000, [email protected]; canteen. Men andwomen are accepted. Rooms have mosquitonets,and there’s a from theYWCA,andmarginally quieter. accepted, andfoodisavailable. courtyard are quieter. Men andwomenare the street Roomsaroundtheinner noise. convenient centrallocationmakes up for are clean,withnet,fanandsink, the post office, andagoodbudget Rooms deal. Jambo Inn YWCA Safari Inn Safari YMCA YMCA ) Apopulartravellers’ hauntinKis-

Mp p118; (Map Mp p118; (Map (Map (Map p118 ;

Mp p118; (Map % % 213 5457;UpangaRd;s/dwith 212 2439; Maktaba St;s/dwith 212 2439;Maktaba % % a bangi Around thecorner www.lonelyplanet.com 211 9104;safari-inn@lycos 211 4293, 0686;jambo ) Around the cor- Just upfromthe or ganja ). US$185/210; 2416; www.movenpick-daressalaam.com; OhioSt;s/dfrom off (TSh2500 inataxi). off (TSh2500 andask tobedropped transportstand Posta take theBuguruni It’s about2kmsouthwestof thecitycentre; isreasonableweekends, butotherwise value. of DaresSalaam.It’snoisy,especiallyon and acanteen,allrunbytheArchdiocese with tworoomssharingbathroomfacilities, singles withfanandnet,breezier doubles St; dTSh9600) small restaurant. windows, erratichot-water suppliesand a www.lonelyplanet.com Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel RoyalPalm Hotel Mövenpick MIDRANGE &TOPEND in attractive groundsnearthe golfcourse. It’scentrallylocatedand acafé-patisserie. are fitness andbusinesscentres, restaurants fornonguests),therethe pool(TSh10,000 Inadditionto rooms andtop-notch service. ment isDaresSalaam’sclassiest,with plush 286 3204; Kawawa Rd;s/dTSh8500/12,000) 286 3204;Kawawa no food. of SamoraAve near theclocktower;there’s It’s inabusyarea off thesouthwestern end downstairs. ( p123), extra charge) atDarShanghai Restaurant and air-con, andbreakfast is available (at east of thepostoffice. Roomshave fan,nets located, abouttwoblockssouth- Centrally 6247; [email protected];SokoineDr;s/twUS$20/25; Luther House Centre Hostel Hostel Luther HouseCentre Msimbazi Centre Hostel Hostel Msimbazi Centre Hotel Kibodya .mkombozi.org; Moshi) .com; Dares Salaam), involved, include good initialcontacts Tanzania’s youthandsimply raisingawareness. If you’re interested inlearning more oringetting of expellingpregnantthe practice girls inschools,formulatingfairemployment standardsfor United toendcorporalpunishment and NationsConvention of theChild,seeking ontheRights plus basiceducation. Somealsodoadvocacyworkonvarious issues,includingpopularisingthe suchasresidential,don’t, inthemeanwhile offering healthandcounselling programs, services reintegration forthosechildren whohave families,orfoster care oradoptionforthosewho of children whoseekhelpatoutreach programs. These programsgenerally seekcommunity have droppedoutofschoolandturnedtothestreet asanalternative. areOthers fleeingviolenceorstressful livingsituationsathome,lackaccesstoeducation,or boys–onthestreets.children andyouths–particularly Someare orphans, often duetoAIDS. In Tanzania, asinso manyotherplacesintheworld,there are distressingly highnumbersof TANZANIA’S CHILDREN STREET While there are few statistics,thescopeofproblem ishinted atbythelarge numbers ais Large, no-frills roomswithfans. Mp p118; (Map

) Boona Baana Centre . Thisfive-star establish- daladala (Map p116 ; p116 (Map % Mp p118 ; (Map Mp p118; (Map fromtheOld 211 7856; Nkrumah 211 7856;Nkrumah Tiny, stuffy % 286 3508, Dogo Centre forStreet Children % % (www.boonabaana.org; DaresSalaam) a 211 212 )

bureau. Breakfast isextra. Mall, withanATM, supermarket andforex are spotlessandgoodvalue;belowisJM connections andabusinesscentre. Rooms city ortheharbour,kitchenette, broadband lers’ studioapartmentswithviewsover the Chartered Bank. andnextto Standard the NationalMuseum ness centre. It’sonaquietsidestreet near amenities,includingabusi- and thestandard ant andpopularplace,withmodernrooms usually ahitwithchildren. bished) andalarge free-form pool that’s refur-rooms (askforonethathasbeen withreasonablequirky placeinOyster Bay less Internet accessandarestaurant. wire- butspaciousroomswith TV, spartan completelybeen renovated, andnow offers ai SamoraAve;.harbourview-suites.com; steUS$90-140; It’s in Upanga, just off UnitedIt’s inUpanga,justoff NationsRd. with small,spotlessroomsandhelpfulhosts. cosy B&Binaquiet,leafyneighbourhood, Swiss Garden Hotel Swiss Garden MIDRANGE Msasani Peninsula&Upanga ai www.pbhtz.com; AliHassanMwinyiRd;s/d/trUS$55/80/90; karibu.com; Haile Selassie Rd;s/dUS$80/90; HaileSelassie karibu.com; Ave;-inn.com; Garden s/dUS$144/160; [email protected]; Mindu St;s/dfromUS$50/70; [email protected]; Mindu Holiday Inn Harbour View Suites Harbour View Hotel Karibu Hotel Palm BeachHotel ) ) ThisDaresSalaaminstitutionhas New andvery nicebusinesstravel- DAR ESSALAAM••Sleeping

Mp p118; (Map

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Mp p118; (Map and % % (dogodogo@cats-net Mkombazi 213 7575;www.holiday % 260 2946;www.hotel ai % % 212 2931,2130985; 215 3219;swiss 212 4040;www as ) Apleas- (www i

121

) ) A A TANZANIA TANZANIA [email protected]; Toure Dr; s/dUS$100/120; -dar.com; OceanRd;s/d fromUS$109/129; left attheAkanasignpost. RdpastShopper’sBagamoyo Plaza,then north of the citycentre: gonorthonOld meals available onrequest. It’sabout7km ones nextdoorinanannexe, andlocal-style rooms inaprivate home,withafew smaller ais apt fromUS$100; Ali HassanMwinyiRds;fullyserviced % are available. over thebay.Discounted long-term rates sink andrefrigerator, andsomehave views Slipway.Allhaveat theMsasani ahotplate, Slick, modernapartmentsinagoodlocation don’t have flyscreens. don’t like air-con, note thatthewindows Bridge.It’s 1kmsouthof Ifyou Selander better (brighter)onesontheupperlevel. rooms aroundasmallcourtyard, withthe Dark andheavily furnishedbutcomfortable neighbouring annex. the lessappealing,viewlessrooms inthe fitness centre restaurants. Avoid andseveral Peninsula,ern tipof Msasani plusasmall overlookingsetting theoceanatnorth- Sea Cliff Hotel CliffHotel Sea TOP END 122 around the grounds. Although the hotelaround thegrounds. Although is permanent scaffolding for the seemingly shops and eateries somewhat compensate –anditscollection offrom the seafront The location of thisplace –acrossthe road ais seacliff.com; Toure Dr;s/dwith/withoutseaviewUS$180/160; r US$80,dayUS$60; long-term rentals are possible. the fitnessandbusiness centres; short-and andaccessto All comewithkitchenette, TV Bridge.compound justnorth of Selander s/dUS$50/70; www.akanalodge.com; 0893; [email protected];aptUS$80,dayuseUS$60; doorstep. you have alltheSlipwayrestaurants atyour the centre of theshoppingarea. Formeals, enette) in atthisadjoiningestablishment also hashotel-style rooms(withoutkitch- Msasani SlipwayApartments Souk Protea DaresSalaamApartments Protea Courtyard Courtyard Oyster BayHotel Oyster Akana Lodge Akana 266 6665;[email protected]; & cnrHaileSelassie DARESSALAAM••Eating Mp p116; (Map ) ) Sea Cliff hasanexcellent,breezy Cliff Sea Modernapartments inasecure (Map p116; (Map Mp p116; (Map (Map (Map p116 ; a %

Mp p116; (Map ) % The same managementThe same 260 0893;[email protected]; % 213 0130;info@thecourtyard % 260 0380/7;www.hotel 270 0122,2775261;

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dishes, and Chinese cuisine. dishes, andChinese fare,standard plus pizzas,Indianandveg budget hotels. Thelarge menufeatures ofwithin easywalkingdistance theKisutu andpopularlocaleateryA long-standing p124. and chips, also andother localfare. See upplates of chickencultural centre, serving eatery intheNyumba yaSanaacraftsand from TSh2000; TSh3000; TSh2000; about 5kmnorthof thecitycentre. Tea House isthetiny a goodplacetostart andJamhuriarea around Zanaki Sts,where and lotsof localatmosphere, headtothe For inexpensive Indianfoodandtakeaways BUDGET City Centre try on Sunday.Forself-catering, sula. Mostplacesinthecentre are closed the citycentre Penin- andontheMsasani erately pricedrestaurants scattered around ofDar esSalaamhasagoodselection mod- EATING astheyvaryconsiderably). look atseveral, of theroomsare surprisinglyOK(take a better valueplacesinthispricerange, some often overlooked forthemore modern and h per’s Plaza,OldBagamoyoRd) and fast food. popular South African chain, with burgers (Msasani Slipway) Centre Nyumba yaSanaa Steers Chef’s Pride Pride Chef’s from TSh2000; Épi d’Or AUTHOR’S CHOICE passing scenealongbusySamoraAve. andwatchthe sit inair-conditioned comfort and whilethere are noseabreezes, youcan ofthecitynearcornerBridgeSt, heart Eastern dishes.and otherMiddle It’sinthe including large, crispysalads,andhummus cious breads, pastriesandlightlunches, cosy French-run features bakery-café deli- 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pmSat) 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, (JM Mall, SamoraAve Mall, St); &Mission (JM h h

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St; buffet TSh17,000-22,000; Palm Hotel,OhioSt; St; mealsfromTSh5000; tarian dishes. tarian ofcuisine, includingadecentselection vege- heavy IndianandChinese décorandtasty Saturday evenings. andmusic on Thursday and race seating, and Swahilicuisine,relaxing outdoor ter- restaurantof features thisZanzibar Thai ervations recommended. ervations signposted off MgombaniSt.Advance res- and agoodrange of vegetarian dishes. It’s damom and ofin ahotsauce butter, onion, chilli, car- accompanied by a hard-boiled served egg Hostel Centre building. House It’s behindSwissAirlinesintheLuther lection, reasonable pricesandfriendly staff. food,withawidemenuse- bet forChinese Ethiopian food, with of DaresSalaam’sinsidertips ifyoulike from TSh6000; juices andcoffees, yogurtandcakes. plusgood Sts, withsandwichesandsalads, OhioandUpanga bank,between Barclay’s h Luther HouseCentre Hostel, SokoineDr;mealsfromTSh3500; &WineBar Cynics Café MIDRANGE &TOPEND www.lonelyplanet.com Sweet Eazy Msasani Peninsula andálacartea full-course buffet dining. Next doortotheMövenpick, thiseatery has salad stations. stations. salad your-own omelette sandwich, and pasta, withdesign- toTSh10,000, around TSh6000 good-value lunchfor specialonweekdays meals fromTSh3500; seafood grillsandSwahili cuisine. seafood andálacarteeon buffet, diningfeaturing pizzas, grillsand seafood. Shops; Toure Drive) dinner) Ave;Garden meals fromTSh6000; 9pm Fri) 9pm Fri) wiches &saladsTSh3500-6000; Addis inDar Saverio’s Bar Kibo Dar Shanghai Restaurant Restaurant Shanghai Dar Baraza Serengeti Restaurant Serengeti Alcove breakfast, lunch&dinner,closedSunlunch) Apopularplacewithasmalllunch- A great littleplacetucked innextto (Map (Map p118 ;

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% lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) 213 7444;SamoraAve; meals (Map p118; (Map h 213 7575;HolidayInnHotel, 270 0393;Old BagamoyoRd; % h 211 2416;MövenpickRoyal doro wat 0745-754074; OysterBay breakfast, lunch&dinner) Mp p118; (Map 0741-266299; 35Ursino 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to h % breakfast, lunch & % Features a 213 8422;sand- 211 2416;Ohio % Thebest (chicken 213 4397; Good Dark, One 7pm Mon-Sat; sie Rd) Turquoise and Saturdayevenings. A well-stocked bar,andmusiconThursday dishes. and Italian loyal groupof regulars with itsgoodpizzas placethat attractsa homy, long-standing cliff Village cliff Village music onweekends. an ice-cream shopandawaterside setting. fromburgerswith everything tosushi,plus some Fridayevenings. Rd; dinnerdaily,lunchSat&Sun) Upmarket Western-style disco. Upmarket 14) n www.naomba.com. and ( p124) the bulletinboard atNyumbayaSanaa town, check thelistingsmagazines( p117 ), For thelatest onwhat’sgoingaround ENTERTAINMENT St) h to quench yourthirst. but there are afew nevertheless goodspots made theirwayintolocalDaresSalaamlife, Neither thecafénorpubscenehave DRINKING California Dreamers California ages onweekends. TSh5000 only get going after 11pm.Admission aver- discover allithas tooffer. Most nightspots ittakesAfrican musicscene, though timeto Dar esSalaamholds itsownintheEast Nightclubs a great placeforamiddaybreak. (Map (Map the YMCA grounds. den innicegar- dishesandgrillsserved nental for deliciousTurkishcuisine. Kimweri Ave;Kimweri mealsfromTSh4000; 8.30pm Wed) 782770; UpangaRd; Mawazo Art Gallery & Café &Café Gallery Art Mawazo There’s of agoodselection eateries at Sweet Eazy Garden Bistro Garden Garden Bistro Garden Cynics Café & WineBar Cynics Café Kibo Bar Kibo Épi d’Or La Trattoria Jan La Trattoria Upmarket sportsbaratthehotel. 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to9pmFri) 16; M p116 ; bandas Apopularspotforadrink,withlive Mp p116; (Map (Map p118; (Map (Map (Map ( A small, bright artgallery-caféin Asmall,bright sasani Slipway; DAR ES SALAAM •• Drinking DAR ESSALAAM••Drinking a Map Map p118 ; MövenpickRoyalPalm Hotel,Ohio (thatched-roof huts).

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Good coffee andjuices, and Mp p116; (Map a p116; Map

Mp p116; (Map % h (Map (Map p116 ; Ali HassanMwinyiRd) % Toure Dr; 213 6006;SamoraAve; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,until 260 0979;mealsfromTSh5000) h % (Map p118 ; p118 (Map % all day) h Indian andconti- %

h 260 0800; Haile Selassie 260 0800;HaileSelassie Mp p118; (Map 260 0800;HaileSelas- Live musicon all day) 255 7640,2668739; MsasaniSlipway lunch &dinner) isalsogood, % , including % 213 8422; h 0748- 7am- 123 Sea- A

TANZANIA TANZANIA the bustling Friday andSaturday;inSinza,justoffNewBagamoyoRd. Friday Rd; Rd,OysterBay; Stores, HaileSelassie p118; Western films. Bagamoyo Rd,Mwenge)Dailyscreenings ofIndianand dances of individualtribes. the casional specialprogramshighlighting aswell,and alsohasoc- and mostweekdays from 2pmto6pmonweekendsfor TSh2500 St) .com/villagemuseum/; cnrNewBagamoyoRd&Makaburi SaturdayandSundayevenings. Friday, SaturdayandSunday. Friday, clientele; the USembassy,andwithamoderatelyupmarket Craft Market Market Craft For souvenirs, trythe SHOPPING Centre Cultural Mwalimu JuliusKNyerere &Dance Traditional Music New WorldCinema Msasani Slipway Council British Cinemas New MsasaniClub Lions Club Club Bilicanas 124 sula; other traditional dance events aroundtown. other traditionaldanceevents days, andisthebestplacetofindoutabout ditional danceperformancesat7pmonFri- alr & aé (p123 ) Café & Gallery more, isMawazo agoodplacetostart Art and paintings,woodcarvings high-quality Peninsula,of Msasani Rd.For Chole justoff the atmosphere calm.It’sonthewestern side elsewhere intown,butqualityisgoodand head tothe stroll amongtheir wares. Forwoodcarvings, where youcanwatch theartists atworkand Sanaa to town, Sam Nujoma Rd.Closer it’s five minutes onfootto theleft,down dala the carving isdone. Takethe carving theMwenge howsomeofdors, andyou’llbe abletosee Rd.It’spackedNew Bagamoyo withven- Hotel; Occasional free also culturalfilms. See p115 . The museum hosts The museum The bestplaceforTingatinga paintings is Village Museum Museum Village h DARESSALAAM••Shopping h from New Posta tothe end,fromwhere fromNew Posta Nyumba yaSanaa,OhioSt) h

8am-6pm) (Map (Map p118 ; Ohio St,next Sat &Sun) daily) (Sheikilango Rd)Lotsoflocalflavour,beston (Sheikilango

(Map (Map Mwenge Carvers’ Market Market Mwenge Carvers’ Tingatinga Centre Tingatinga Centre isa localartists’ cooperative (Map (Map p118 ; MkwepuSt) (Map (Map p118 ; , neartheVillage off Museum (Map (Map p116 ; MsasaniPeninsula) Movies . Pricesare here higher than (Map (Map p116 ; OldBagamoyo Rd)Near p116 ; (www.darcinemas.com; New ( % Msasani Slipway, Msasani Penin- Msasani Slipway Weekend Msasani SlipwayWeekend . % 270 0437;www.homestead ngoma This centre hastra- toMövenpick Royal Palm 211 6574/5;SokoineDr)

Mp p1 Morogoro p116; (Map performances h More ofthesame. 8.30am-5pm) (Sam Nujoma Nyumba ya dala- (Map , Upanga Rd,cnrAliHassanMwinyi&BibiTiti Mohamed Rds) .cc; UpangaRd) City Centre .com; Ground Fl, JM Mall, Samora Ave).com; GroundFl,JMMall, ZanAir Yemenia Yemen Airways Airlines Swiss International Airways South African Air Precision Oman Air deMoçambique Linhas Aéreas KLM Airways Kenya Ethiopian Airlines &IndiaSts) Plaza, cnrKisutu Airlines Emirates EgyptAir Coastal Aviation Airways British Air Tanzania Air India AIRLINE OFFICES minal), about700mfurtherdowntheroad. charters departfromTerminal One(‘old’ter- andmost flights) (including mostZanzibar from town).Many onsmallplanes flights terminal, andthefirst oneyoureach coming departfromTerminalflights Two(the‘new’ andallinternational Most domesticflights zania’s internationalhub. anddomesticflight Dar esSalaamInternational AirportisTan- Air THERE&AWAY GETTING have goodselections. national departures lounge attheairport shopsintheinter-the lastminute, several some of theartistsatwork. parts of thecountry;youcanalsowatch textilesthat sells andcraftsfromvarious www.fasttracktanzania.com. SamoraAve)4600; Groundfl,JMMall, AtFast-Track Travel, Mövenpick RoyalPalm Hotel,OhioSt) Ohio St)Opposite MövenpickRoyal Palm Hotel. cnr BibiTiti Mohamed&Ali HassanMwinyiRds) Opposite MövenpickRoyalPalm Hotel. tre 284 4239;ATC Building,OhioSt) h & BibiTiti MohamedRds) Airport) Airways. with Kenya Luther House,SokoineDr) Mp p118 ; (Map If yousave yourcraftshoppinguntil 6am-midnight); (Map (Map p118 ; ( % (Map (Map p118 ; Mp p118; (Map Mp p118; (Map Mp p118; (Map 284 3297; www.zanair.com; Terminal One,

% Airport Airport Airport % Mp p118; (Map Mp p118; (Map 212 1718;cnrSamoraAve &Pamba Rd) Airport (Map (Map p118 ; City Centre (Map (Map p118 ; ( ( 213 9790/1;UpangaRd)Together % % % % % % ( ( 284 3547;Terminal Two); 211 7959/60;aviation@coastal 215 2642;cnrAliHassanMwinyi 211 0333;SamoraAve) 284 4239;Terminal Two; % % 213 5660;omanair@cats-net Mp p118; (Map % % Mp p118; (Map www.lonelyplanet.com 211 7044; Raha Towers, 211 7044;Raha 284 3293;Terminal One);

Mp p118; (Map % % 211 3666,9376/7; 211 3820,2844082; (Map (Map p118 ; 211 6100;Haidery 211 7063;OhioSt) % % % 212 6036; 211 8411, % 211 8870; City Cen- 213 Pemba, see p154 and p157 . around tocollect paymentforthefavour. later whenthetoutor hisbuddiescome with them,you’re likely tohave problems get resident-rate tickets andget on theboat resident to rates. it’seasyenough Although chase ferry tickets foryouatless-expensive ‘cheaper’ ferry tickets, orwhooffer topur- area, whowanttotake youintotowntobuy steer youtofake booking offices intheport Also,avoidUS$5 porttax). touts whotryto fee istheticket price(which includesthe icates’, departure taxes andthelike. Theonly trying tocollectextrafees for ‘doctors’ certif- dows, anddon’tfallfortoutsatthe harbour ing before dawnthenextday). ( and opposite thebackof JMMall. ferry terminal, just downfromtheZanzibar Star aretures dailyat7am ( fromZanzibar all ferries are Cathedral. opposite StJoseph’s costs US$20oneway.Theticket windowsfor four hours. Itdepartsdailyat12.30pmand called the the extramoney).There’s alsooneslowferry intheair-cona seat hold,butisn’tworth and costUS$35/40regular/VIP (VIPgets you Bus ( departingdailyat7.30am laam toZanzibar, Sea Express There are four‘fast’ferry trips(on ZANZIBAR &PEMBA p118; (Map hours). Tickets are soldatthe 25to30 Mtwara (US$25includingporttax, Dar esSalaam,andat2pmTuesdayfrom Safari, The onlyconnectionisontheailingMV MTWARA Salaam andMtwara. andPemba;es Salaam,Zanzibar andDares routesThe mainpassenger are Dar between Boat www.lonelyplanet.com tion at Ubungo, about 8kmwest of town part from and arrive at the main bussta- except Scandinavian ExpressAll buses de- Bus Sea Express Sea Express For information on ferry connectionsto Only buyyourtickets attheticket win- Travelling intheotherdirection, depar- ) and4pm( ), 10am( which departsat8amSaturdayfrom % Flying Horse, or 212 4504/6;SokoineDrive) ) and10pm( ), 10.30am( Sea Bus Sea Bus Sea Bus ), 1pm( ) dailyfromDaresSa- ). Alltake 1½hours which takes almost Sea Star Flying Horse Sea Bus MV Safari office MV Safari attheport, ), 2pm( Sea Star, ), 4pm , arriv- Sea Sea

DAR ES SALAAM •• Getting There &Away DAR ESSALAAM••Getting daily departures toArushaat9am. Royal Coach while 7am, 8amand9am(allTSh14,000), to Arushadepartingat6am(TSh12,000), www.scandinaviagroup.com; cnrMsimbaziSt&Nyerere Rd) dela Rd. west of thecitycentre, justoffNelson Man- 1 from Temeke about5kmsouth- busstand, 1 Transport toKilwa Masoko alsodeparts 1 Tunduma 17,000 1 1 Tanga 7500 1 Songea 17,000-19,000 Nairobi 38,000 Mwanza 44,000 1 Mombasa 19,000 3 Mbeya 18,000-20,000 2 Kyela 18,000-20,000 3 50,000 Kampala 3 8500-10,000 Iringa Dodoma 7500-10,000 2 (perday) Frequency Arusha 15,000-24,000 (TSh) Price Destination Ubungo. centre. alsopassby AllScandinavian buses tothecity calmer thanUbungo,andcloser tures andticket bookings,which ismuch has itsownterminal forarrivals,depar- buy tickets itself. insidethebusoffice in Kisutu,neartheLibyaStpostoffice. Only offices (listed following),mostof which are For departures, booktickets atthebus-line you’ll have acheaper fare taxi toyourhotel. worth doing,asitwillbelesschaotic and – whichuntil thebusline’stownoffice is onthebuspastUbungo can sometimesstay ArrivingatDaresSalaam,you TSh10,000. Taxis fromthecitycentre to cost TSh8000 localtransportstands. andOldPosta Posta dalas and trytoavoid arrivingatnight. an eyeonyourluggage andyourwallet, hustle,sokeep with theusualbus-station on MorogoroRd.It’sasprawlingplace Malawi, see p256 . es SalaamandKenya, Uganda, and Zambia tween Dar esSalaam, Mbeya and Kapiritween For information about theTazara line be- Train Scandinavian Express Scandinavian Express For information about buses between Dar between For informationabout buses Dar Express to Ubungo (TSh200) leave toUbungo(TSh200) fromNew Mp p118; (Map

(Map p118 ; Libya St) Libya p118; (Map % Mp p116; (Map 212 4073;LibyaSt) runs daily buses runsdailybuses % 218 4833/4; Dala- runs

125 TANZANIA TANZANIA Railway St&SokoineDr) Railway .tz; cnr Nyerere & Nelson Mandela Rds) .tz; cnrNyerere &NelsonMandela Azania FrontLutheran Church. Azania stand alsoleavefromhere; askfor‘Temeke the Central Line Railway Station. the CentralLineRailway Stesheni Old Posta New Posta Main toTSh200. cost TSh100 stops: driver isreally goingtoyourdestination.Rides window, butroutes vary,soconfirmthatthe gage. First andlaststopsare showninthefront flowing andare toboardwithlug- difficult Daladalas Transport Public es Salaam. offer specialbusinesspackages within Dar Most of therental agencies listed on p263 &Motorcycle Car bargaining abilities. dependingonyour toTSh10,000, TSh8000 hour. Much better are which taxis, cost thetripcantake over Intraffic stand. an Ndege) transport departfromNewPosta from thecitycentre. Dar esSalaamInternational Airportis12km To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING Kigoma andMwanza,see p265 . DaresSalaam, Linetrainsbetween Central see Mposhi (Zambia), p265 . Formore on 126 and Haile Rds. Selassie PeninsulaMsasani onthecorner of Msasani Azania Front LutheranChurch) andonthe Azikiwe St andSokoine Dr (opposite the pick Royal Palm Hotel, onthecorner of Village). Cliff toSea (TSh5000 at TSh2500 insula start trip withinthecentre. Fares Pen- toMsasani Taxis charge pershort toTSh2000 TSh1000 Taxi southwest of the ferry terminal. a taxi). a taxi). southwest fromthecitycentre in (TSh5000 station Vigunguti, U/Ndege orBuguruni. andare transportstands, Old Posta marked post office. The Taxi opposite Möven- ranks includethose Tanzanian Railways Corporation (Central Line) Tanzanian Corporation (Central Railways AROUNDDARESSALAAM••SouthernBeaches

Tazara station Mp p118; (Map Daladalas (Map (Map p118 SamoraAve St)Off ; Algeria near (Map (Map p118 ; SokoineDr)Justdownfromthe (Map (Map p118 St)Infront ofthemain ; Maktaba are invariablypacked to over- % departfromtheNewand isinthecitycentre just

211 7833; www.trctz.com; cnr 211 7833;www.trctz.com; ( Daladalas % Daladalas 286 5187;www.tazara.co isabout6km (marked U/ toTemeke bus mwisho ’. .kipepeovillage.com; s/d/trbandaUS$50/65/95) .kipepeovillage.com; .com; campingUS$4,s/dbandaUS$13/20) Breakfast isnotincluded. beach, allwithbalconiesandmosquitonets. cottages linedupabout200minfromthe boni onthebeach, hasaCultural Tourism village, 13kmsouthofGezaulole Kigam- Gezaulole toKipepeoand Gendayeka. TSh2000 Taxisoff. from Kigambonicharge about Kigamboni; ask the driver todropyou the otherside, koni FrontandKigamboni village. Onceon theeasternthe daybetween endof Kivu- fiveTSh100/800, minutes) runs throughout The Kigamboni ferry (perperson/vehicle THERE&AWAYGETTING Village Kipepeo SLEEPING &EATING andsurf. and wantsomesand an easydaytripifyou’re intown staying spot toDaresSalaamforcamping.It’salso The beach southof Kigamboni istheclosest % Kigamboni 25km southare afew exclusive resorts. reached inafew minutes byferry. About boni, which isopposite KivukoniFrontand The budget placesbeginsouthof Kigam- south yougo,andmakes getaway. aneasy more attractive, tropicalandrural thefurther The coastline south of DaresSalaamgets SOUTHERN BEACHES SALAAM AROUND DARES Pride restaurant (p122). not secured. Make Chef’s bookingsthrough a padlockisrequired asmostbungalowsare ties. Womeninparticularshould note that site. No-frills bungalowswithshared facili- on thebeach 700msouthof KipepeoCamp- person withshared bathroomTSh10,000) and simplebeachside is onthebeach. Ithasarestaurant-bar, agrill Kipepeo is8kmsouthof theferry dock. there’s of fee fordayuse aTSh3000 thebeach. Kipepeo Campsite Kipepeo Gendayeka BeachVillage Gendayeka 022

( daladalas %

( % 282 0877,0744-276178;www bandas 282 0877;www.kipepeocamp www.lonelyplanet.com

(camping TSh5000,rper head southfrom . Onweekends, Asimpleplace Thiscampsite Raised Raised bandas perpersonwithshared bathroomTSh7000) amboni charge aboutTSh7000. TaxisAkida’s Garden(TSh400). fromKig- the driver todropyouatthe turn-offfor andask dock towardsKimbijiorGezaulole, and SindaIslandtripscostTSh5000. are perperson about TSh7000 perhalfday, Dar esSalaamonpublictransport.CTPfees it’spossibletovisitasaday tripfrom start, nearby.Withanearly sublime KimBeach, bungalows totheexclusive Kutani south andaroundthebendfromRas activities canbearranged. bungalows andbird-watching andother commodation isinbarefoot-luxury-style getaway withoutleaving themainland.Ac- asyoucanget toatropical island as close andasmalllagoon,comesabout sea excursions andwater sports. spacious luxurycottages andafullarrayof manicured lawnsoverlooking Ithas the sea. also There’sposted themainroad. about1kmoff vance bookings. and goodfishing.Bothlodges requiring ad- tropicalsurroundings secluded laam boasts This capeabout30kmsouthof DaresSa- Kutani Ras at pointis SindaIsland.Thestarting to nearby out life peopleand sails of the localZaramo Program (CTP),which introducesyoutothe www.lonelyplanet.com lands canbe arranged at Diving around Bongoyo and Mbudya Is- Activities avoid Dar esSalaamentirely. ifyouwantto them as abase day, oruse thatyoucanvisitforthe enough also close make arelaxing break fromthecity.They’re beaches, they otic ambienceof Zanzibar’s weekend getaways. Whilethey lacktheex- Rd are linedwithresorts andare popular Dar esSalaamand eastof New Bagamoyo The beaches about25kmnorthof central % BEACHES NORTHERN US$140/240; ( 410) % Take a a Take For more of aresort atmosphere, headjust Ras Kutani Ras Akida’s Garden Akida’s 022 isanintimate retreat the between set 0744-410033; www.proteahotels.com; s/dfullboard 0744-410033; www.proteahotels.com; camping daladala ais

(TSh2000) (www.selous.com; s/dfullboardUS$308/

( % fromtheKigamboniferry underthepalmson ) 0744-505725; campingTSh2500, , spread acrosslarge, Sea Breeze Marine Marine Breeze Sea Amani BeachClub , sign- AROUND DAR ES SALAAM •• Northern Beaches AROUND DARESSALAAM••Northern

6pm, Tue womenonly) of road. along thisstretch muggings several been asthere Don’twalkthough, TSh1500). have forthe remaininga taxi 2kmorso(about Junction stop,where tolookfor you’ll need Silver onuntiltheKunduchi Sands, stay tothe hotels For a taxi (fromTSh2000). Africana Junction, fromwhere youcanfind Mwenge towards Tegeta at anddisembark White Sands,continue via toMwenge.New Posta ForJangwani and about TSh15,000/25,000. [email protected]; adult/childTSh4000/3800; [email protected]; ais discounts; .hotelwhitesands.com; s/dUS$105/120,weekend on weekend evenings. excursions canbearranged. There’s adisco fishingand conies. Windsurfing,deep-sea minifridge andsmallbal- Rooms have TV, s s/dfromUS$90/115; 320875; www.jangwani.com; lawn, andarestaurant. fast. There are aroundasmall alsoroomsset that comewithmosquitonetsand break- facilities withhotwater, anddormbeds a taxi. more. Take a water slides,bumpercars, videoarcadesand Silver Sands. moyo roadisthesignposted turn-off for About 3kmfurthernorthalongtheBaga- posted road. turn-off fromtheBagamoyo Sands Hotel are reached sign- viathesame Jangwani Breeze Lodge andWhite Sea &Away There Getting Lodge Breeze Jangwani Sea Sleeping &Eating Centre Dive a US$3, pervehicleUS$2,dmUS$9,ordinary/deluxe rUS$30/45; Sands Hotel ( below ). ments. water slidesandotherDisney-styleamuse- weekend buffets. draped courtyard,andarestaurant with the roadfrombeach), abougainvillea- somewhat over-furnished rooms(allacross Taxis fromthe city centre/airport cost Silver Sands Beach Hotel SandsBeachHotel Silver Take a a Take There are water parks,withpools, several White Sands Hotel SandsHotel White ) ) A tidy establishment with comfortable if withcomfortable Atidyestablishment The bestbudget choice, withcamping Kunduchi Wet‘n’Wild ) daladala

A sprawlinghotel onthebeach. (www.seabreezemarine.org) daladala isthelargest, withpools, fromDaresSalaam’s ( % toMwenge andthen 264 7621,2113678;www ( %

( % ( % 265 0567/8;camping daladala 265 0326,0332; 264 7215,0741- atWhite h ai from

9am- 127 TANZANIA TANZANIA can bearranged. from theairport(about20minutes away) ing inadvancebyphoneoremail.Pick-ups tomakeany time,butyou’llneed abook- dated. Thecompoundisopenforvisitingat and overland truckscannotbeaccommo- Large groups other meals(mealsTSh7000). and arestaurant withvegetarian dishesand camping, fourspaciousensuite side backingontoaforest There’s reserve. Pugu Hills. the railroadtracks. Continue2kmuphillto at adirtpathabout50mbeforeturn right roadtotheleft,continue 1.2km,then sealed vehicle, fromtheoldAgip follow the station on foot);askforBwanaKiki’s place. By up toPuguHills(about15minutes further your left,where there isadirtpathleading 200m, totheendof atinygroupof shopson roadforabout continue alongtheKisarawe about 7kmpasttheairport).From here, (about7kmbeforestation and Kisarawe, ask thedriver todropyouat theoldAgip Pugu Hillscampinggroundandrestaurant, from Nyerere Rdattheairportturn-off. For bazi StinKariakoo (DaresSalaam),and Daladalas &Away There Getting photos. cautionwhentaking use full time. nearby,so There’s base amilitary worked asateacher before entering politics School, whereSecondary JuliusNyerere a historicalperspective, asthesite of Pugu Puguisalsoof interestconservative. from here have remained quite traditionaland proximity tothecity,manycommunities andbustle. Despitefrom urbannoise its eral smallforestandoffers reserves, abreak wooded,withsev- It’slightly past Kisarawe. southwest of DaresSalaamandextends The Pugu Hillsarea beginsabout15km PUGU HILLS 128 and snorkelling. per person TheTSh1000 a decent array of fish andenjoyable diving system. Theyboast pristinepatches of sand, part of the Dar es SalaamMarine Reserve of Dar esSalaam,were gazetted in1975as vini and Fungu Yasini, thecoast justoff The islandsof Bongoyo, Mbudya, OFFSHORE ISLANDS Panga- das US$50) hills.com; entryTSh2000,campingTSh6000,4-6personban- Pugu Hills ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••History ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO is a good, breezy place set onahill- isagood,breezy placeset to Kisarawe leave toKisarawe fromMsim-

( % 0744-565498, 0744-394875;www.pugu bandas mainland first made thetrip across the peoples fromthewhen Bantu-speaking ofleast to the start thefirst millennium, The archipelago’s historystretches backat History challenging diving. ture, someattractive offshore islandsand fers anintriguing, largely undiscovered cul- to itsattractive, hillyterrain, theislandof- dom visited andvery laid-back. Inaddition spots left. are stillsomequietandrelatively unspoiled places have becomevery there developed, fine, white-sand beaches. many Although and strikingcoralformations edged by abounding inmarinelife sea, lar turquoise squares. Anotherdrawcardisitsspectacu- shops, bazaars, mosques,courtyardsand quaint its whitewashed, coral-raghouses, zibar’s mainattractionisStoneTown, with islands hasitsowndistinctcharacter. Zan- islands andisletsoffshore. of Each themain Pemba tothenorth,plusnumeroussmaller tion, thearchipelago isalsomadeupof the United Republicof Tanzania. mainland withwhich itislinked aspartof pelago isacomplete change of pacefromthe beaches andpristinecoralreefs, thearchi- labyrinth of narrowstreets, topalm-fringed From exoticStoneTownwithitsfascinating The lure of the‘spiceislands’islegendary. ARCHIPELAGO ZANZIBAR Reserve Bongoyo IslandMarine price of excursions. entryfee isusually includedinthe reserve lunch). mum fourpeople,includingentryfees and 2.30pm or4.30pm(US$10return, mini- returning at10.30am,12.30pmandeither way dailyat9.30am,11.30amand1.30pm, no accommodation. ming here isnottidedependent.There’s the beach; bringyourowndrinks.Swim- mealwithlocalson can arrange aseafood beach andsomeshortwalkingtrails.You (except onholidayweekends) stretch of the mostpopularof theislands,withaquiet The islandof Pemba, incontrast,issel- gets mostof theatten-While Zanzibar About 7kmnorthof DaresSalaamis A boat to Bongoyo departs Msasani Slip- toBongoyodepartsMsasani A boat www.lonelyplanet.com

(admission TSh1000) , 1964 Abeid Karume, president of theASP, which then assumed power. On12 April a bloody revolution instigated bytheASP, wereuary 1964, thesultans overthrown in independence. Justonemonth later, inJan- gainedits December 1963, when Zanzibar tectorate. Thisarrangement lasted until 10 rulingunderaBritishpro- Omani sultans bar becameindependent fromOman,with wasformally partitioned.Zanzi- sultanate begantoweaken, andin1862the Zanzibar the endof theslave trade, Omani ruleover ing Europeaninterest Africaand inEast cated his courthere fromthePersian Gulf. ofthat inthe1840sSultan Omanrelo- the interior, andtradereached such apoint slaves, ivoryandcloves. outfor set Caravans on theislandagainflourished,centred on andtrade the upperhandonZanzibar, By theearly19thcenturyOmanhad gained the routingthatthey the mid-16thcentury,gave the , andthenbyOmaniArabs, who,in amenable rest stoponthelong journeyto an first bytheBritish,whofoundZanzibar dominance didn’tlastlong.Itwaschallenged control.Yetunder Portuguese Portuguese and then Pembagolden age, asZanzibar fell 16th centurytemporarily interrupted this still characterises thearchipelago today. came IslamandtheArabicarchitecture that tiles. Alongwiththetradefromeast while importingspices,glassware andtex- asIndiaandAsia,wood toplacesasdistant supplyingslaves,city-state, gold,ivoryand becameapowerful blossomed. Zanzibar links withArabiaandthePersian Gulf the archipelago cameintoitsown,astrade UngujaUkuu. probably alsoatZanzibar’s onPemba settlements they established and to make Africa,where theirwaytoEast tury Shirazi traders fromPersia alsobegan to beZanzibar. From aroundthe8thcen- Menouthias, which manyhistoriansbelieve tury, andmakes reference totheislandof were already bythe1stcen- wellestablished alongthecoast thattrading settlements mariner’s guide,documentssmallArabic ofThe Periplus the Erythraean Sea, date by traders andsailors fromArabia. had likely visited earlier been ataneven andPembaZanzibar channels. Theislands www.lonelyplanet.com From themid-19thcentury,withincreas- The arrivalof intheearly the Portuguese the12thand15thcenturies Between probably deserved. anearly Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

the United Republic of Tanzania. becameknownas fragile fromthe outset, yika (mainlandTanzania) andtheunion, signed adeclaration of unitywith Tangan- cession of leaders followed, culminating in until resigning in1984. Asuc- Zanzibar Aboud Jumbeassumed thepresidency of Znia Archipelago Zanzibar Utete Usambara (195km) To Morogoro Saadani Mkomazi Wa ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Karume wasassassinated in1972, and GR GR mi Pangani ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO •• History ••History ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Zaraninge

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129 TANZANIA TANZANIA if you’re flagged down inisolated areas. duchi, on thesoutheast coast, and don’t stop Jambiani between the section andMakun- avoid isolated stretches of road,including or locked. sealed leave valuables inyourhotel safe, preferably dawn andhours. As arule,it’sbestto walking aloneinStone Townduringthepre- orwalkinagroup. Alsoavoidtake ataxi Town, inZanzibar If yougooutat night beach, andkeep yourvaluablesoutof view. lated areas, especiallyisolated stretches of troublesome; see p133 . beaches. Townandalongthe especially inZanzibar and thelike occurwithsomefrequency, place, incidentsof robberies,muggings remains arelativelyWhile Zanzibar safe Dangers &Annoyances issues. madeatresolvinghas been theunderlying ing the2005elections,andlittle progress times, withviolenceleadingupto anddur- broken thishasbeen several calm, although andCUFhavethe CCM restored afragile then, renewed atdialoguebetween efforts incidents onPemba inJanuary 2001.Since the 2000elections,andresulting violent rary hiatusthiscreated wasshattered by andCUF.the CCM thetempo- However, cluded withabrokered agreement between Commonwealth secretary general con- since.simmering ever national elections(see p108 ), andhave been thetwopeaked inthedisputedbetween 1995 onPemba.which hasitsstronghold Tensions pelago are andtheoppositionCUF, CCM president. of AmanAbeid Karume, sonof the first controversial2000 withthehighly election 130 If you’ve hired abicycle ormotorcycle, Take the normalprecautions: avoid iso- In 1999negotiationsmoderated bythe Today thetwomajor partiesinthearchi- ognition, we’ve usedZanzibar. Zanzibar Town.Inthisbook,foreaseofrec- (which alsoincludesPemba), aswellfrom the islandfromZanzibarArchipelago and isoften usedlocallytodistinguish nameforZanzibar, Unguja istheSwahili UNGUJA VS ZANZIBAR ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO Papasi (street touts)canalsobe travels. visory site (see p624 ) before planning your idea tocheck your government’s travel ad- andPemba,tensions onZanzibar it’sagood less atmospheric section ofless atmospheric section Ng’ambo, which east of Stone Townis thebustling but much bordered to the eastbyCreek Rd.Directly and surrounded onthree sides bythesea byfaristhe oldStoneTown, known section the first stopformost travellers. Thebest- island, istheheart of thearchipelago, and Town,onthewestern sideof the Zanzibar Orientation requirements forthearchipelago. there are to visitZanzibar; visa noseparate take youwherever youwanttogo. dalas, network of cheap, slowandcrowded bike hire andthere’s isquite affordable, a Pemba. andmotor- taxi OnceonZanzibar, and Zanzibar between timesweekly several Pemba andTanga, connections andboat Town, Zanzibar between also dailyflights Town.There arees SalaamandZanzibar dailyferries Dar plusseveral between flights isvery easy,withdaily toZanzibar Getting &Around There Getting ethereal shadesofand thesea turquoise. beaches where ispowderywhite thesand easy reach, collectionof isanunsurpassed architecture. Justbeyondhere, andwithin its labyrinthinealleywaysandfascinating Townistheold StoneTown,with Zanzibar centre andcommercialhub.Attheheartof zibar Town,theisland’smainpopulation long after you’ve finishedyourvisit. deniable allure thatwillcontinuetocaptivate hasanun- quickly backtoreality –Zanzibar island’s ever-present street toutswillpullyou likely won’tlasttoolong–hasslesfromthe and heavily ladenscents.Whilethis reverie west coastof rhythms India, withitssensual gone dayswithitscaliphs tothe andsultans, cient kingdomof Persia, totheOmanof by- transported of thousands miles:tothean- land onto andyou’llfindyourself Zanzibar, Step off theboat(orplane)frommain- % ZANZIBAR Given theongoinghistoryof political A Tanzanian (see visa p255 ) isrequired Most peoplewhovisitarrive first atZan- 024 orfaster private minivans,thatwill www.lonelyplanet.com dala- Znia (Ungula) Zanzibar www.lonelyplanet.com 4 6 1 3 2 5 ZANZIBAR Mangapwani Caves See Enlargement Mangapwani To Pemba

(50km)

AC Z

a

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i Zanzibar

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Chukwani Chumbe C

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Mahonda l Mkokotoni Mbweni Kipange Donge Mdogo Kisauni Ras Nungwi Selem To Dares Salaam Popo Persian Baths Kendwa Minazini Fuoni (70km) Fumba Kidichi Kinyasini Kwale Mbale Mkwajuni Koani Mkunguni B Nungwi Chaani New Pungume M enai Town B ay Tunguu Dunga Mchangani Sume Uzini Bungi Matemwe Mwanahaza Mchangani Miwi Mnemba Unguja Pwani Ukuu Jendele Umbuji Conservation Area Kiwengwa Vundwe Menai Bay ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Uzi Pete 0 0 Chwaka Pongwe Jozani Forest Murogo Bawi Uroa Nyange Kizimkazi Dimbani Ras Uroa Jozani Mkunguni C hwak Kizimkazi Kitogani B ay Kufile Michamvi Kikutani Pange Changuu 2 miles Mtoni MarineCentre& Mbweni Ruins...... (see4) MchezaBar...... Mbweni RuinsHotel...... Mtoni Palace...... Maruhubi Palace...... Livingstone House...... Zanzibar TouristCorporation...(see1) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Michamvi Peninsula Ras Michamvi 4 km Ras Kizimkazi Kibuteni 6miles 10km 0 0 Mtende Stone Town Makunduchi Pingwe Chapwani Zanzibar Bwejuu Dongwe Paje Town Mbweni Jambiani Kibweni D 1 2 4 I NDA O CEAN 5 3 Ng'ambo Mtoni 5 4 3 2 1 Kisauni

D1 D2 D1 D1 D1

131 TANZANIA TANZANIA post office. hr TSh1000; hr TSh500; Shangani Internet Café Shangani Internet Café Internet Macrosoft TelecentreHasina Soft Town, includingthefollowing: There are dozensof Internet cafés inStone ACCESSINTERNET Zanzibar Gallery BOOKSHOPS Information ontheother.Zanzibar mapoftailed StoneTownononesideand The widelyavailable MaCo maphasade- MAPS arein thissection inStoneTown. beaches. Almostallthelistingsmentioned enroute tosomeofyou’ll passthrough the 132 until about 8pm Monday through Saturday, until about8pm Monday through There are manyforex bureaus –mostopen MONEY Group Zanzibar Medical Shamshu &SonsPharmacy MEDICAL SERVICES Mon-Sat, 9am-11am Sun) Sun) AtShanganipostoffice. 223 2200; cnr Kaunda &VugaRds; 223 2200;cnrKaunda hr TSh1000; and maps, including travel guides and Africa titles. and maps,includingtravelguidesAfrica ofbooks 7pm Mon-Sat,9am-1pmSun)Alargeselection Rd&GizengaSt; cnrKenyatta swahilicoast.com; 223 3814; Market St; 223 3814;Market (west of) themarket. (west of) 9am-1.30pmSun)Justbehind 9am-noon &3-8.30pm Fri, not eating or drinking inpublicplaces. not eatingordrinking adan, youcanrespect localsensibilitiesby DuringRam- shorts. slacks orknee-length and Formen,itmeansshirts length shorts. oratleastknee- preferably slacks,skirts women, thismeansnosleeveless tops,and offence atscantilycladWesterners. For cially regarding dress, asmanylocals take hassles byrespecting localcustoms,espe- You’ll gainmore respect andhave fewer Muslimsociety. Zanzibar isaconservative, DRESSING FORSUCCESS ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO h h h 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) 8.30am-10pm) JustdownfromShangani 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm Sat& 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map p134 ; h 9am-8.30pm Mon-Thu &Sat, (Map (Map p134 Rd;per ; Kenyatta (Map (Map p134 Rd;per ; Kenyatta (Map (Map p134 ; (Map (Map p134 ; HurumziSt;per Mp p134 ; (Map % h 223 2721;gallery@ 9am-1pm &5-8pm % % 223 3134, h 223 1262, 9am- changes cashandtravellerscheques,hasanATM. Costs Shangani post office Collection Robin’s TELEPHONE office post Shangani POST and restaurants fromMarch close to May. ing uponfoodinStoneTown.Many hotels If you’re budget, onatight consider stock- ficult tofindamealforlessthan TSh4000. and atthebeach budget hotels itcanbedif- to NewYear holidayperiod. plements duringAugustandtheChristmas and top-endhotels charge sup- peak-season US$8/16 persingle/double. Many midrange the cheapest placesitwon’tgomuch below at even able tonegotiate discounts,although you’lloften orforextended stays, season be and divingorsnorkelling. Duringthelow food), plusextrafortransport,excursions day forfood(unlessyoustickonly tostreet peraccommodation, andfromTSh8000 for on atleastUS$10toUS$15pernight budget.to workabitkeep toatight Plan thanonthemainland,soyou’llneed higher tobeexpensive, need pricesareit doesn’t come lookingforrock-bottom prices.While isnottheplaceto Zanzibar er’s paradise, Despite as abackpack- itsinitialappearance Bureau Shangani Forex deChange Queens Bureau NBC rates similartothoseintheDaresSalaamoffice( p117 ). at Coastal Travels;dollarsorshillingsonVisaMasterCard Inn,andrunby toZanzibarSerena Shangani St)Next Outlet LocalCurrency Coastal Travels’ pay theequivalentinshillings. budget places,it’susuallynoproblem to quoted indollars, butespeciallyatthe be paidforinUSdollars, andpricesare must ficially, accommodationonZanzibar are better thanelsewhere ontheisland.Of- to shoparound,andrates inStoneTown minimum of vary,soitpays hassle. Rates change cashandtravellers cheques with a and often alsoonSunday –where youcan TSh1800 perminute, andcard phones. 8.30am-9pm Sat&Sun) Operator-assisted calls from Fri, Also hasposterestante. 8pm Mon-Sat) Internationalcallsfor US$2perminute. Prices are awayfromStoneTown, higher (Map (Map p134 ; ShanganiSt) Justbefore thetunnel; Mp p3 Knat Rd; Kenyatta p134; (Map (Map (Map Mp p134; (Map (Map (Map p134 Rd) ; Kenyatta 14; K ; p134 (Map (Map p134 Rd) ; Kenyatta www.lonelyplanet.com h enyatta Rd,Shangani) 8am-10pm Mon- (Map (Map p134 ; h 9am- .org; HurumziSt) Tours&Safaris Madeira Fernandes Tours&Safaris Tours Eco +Culture anyone outsideclaimingtobestaff.) payments insidetheoffices, andnotwith the following.(Onlymake bookingsand and ferry tickets, agencies totryinclude For excursions aroundtheisland,andplane TRAVEL AGENCIES Corporation Zanzibar Tourist transport schedules, etc. tidetables zibar quarterly free The TOURIST INFORMATION www.lonelyplanet.com Suna Tours Sama Tours [email protected]; VugaSt) [email protected]; Livingstone House. in 8630; [email protected];Bububurd)Headquarters ern edgeofForodhaniGardens. Green hotel. .ecoculture-zanzibar.org; Hurumzi St)OppositeEmerson& Baghani House Hotel; all price ranges. Baghani HouseHotel;allprice Rd,opposite [email protected]) JustoffKenyatta paying atalegitimate office, andget areceipt. then give youthe discountthatwould have beenpaidto thetoutsascommission. a better chanceofgetting adiscountonyour hotel roomifyouarrive alone, sincethehotel can quite tempting attimes,won’tgetyouanywhere. Anotherthingtoremember isthatyouhave hassled, apolite butfirmapproachusually worksbest–yellingorshowing irritation,although arrange onewithyour hotel oratravel agency. Foranydealingswiththe you’ve arrived atyourhotel. Ifyouwantaguidetoshow aroundStoneTown,it’sbetter to ably beoutsidewaiting foryoulater. Ifyou’re notinterested inthis,explainso(politely) once ongoing workforthem asyourguide,soifyoudouseone tohelpyoufindahotel, he’llinvari- legitimate, andonceyouare for’,hasslesfromtoutsusuallydiminish. ‘spoken taxi. This willcostyoumore, andtaxidrivers lookforhotel commissions aswell,butmostare where theyknowthey’ll getabetter commission. yousomewhere itwithagrainofsalt, as itcouldwellbethattheyjustwanttotake is full,take ditional, asmanyhotels paycommissions. Iftheytell youyourhotel ofchoicenolongerexistsor for, andyourpricerange.go orwhatyouare Youshouldn’thave looking topay anythingad- the ferry dockforthefirsttimeanddon’tknowyourwayaround),tell themwhere youwantto fortroubleifyouarrangeanythingwith them. which meansyouare justasking ing onesare involved withZanzibar’sdrugtrade,andare desperate fix, formoneytheirnext and whileafew canbehelpful,others canbeaggressive andirritating. Manyofthemore annoy- papasi In ZanzibarTown,you’ll undoubtedly as withstreet comeintocontact touts,knowninSwahili PAPASI has information on cultural events, hasinformationonculturalevents, When arranging tours andexcursions, never paymentsonthe street make –besure you’re One otherthingabout using arrivalsareaAnother strategy andhead straightfora yourwayoutoftheport is tomake ofatout(andthey’re hardtoavoidifyou’reIf youdodecidetousetheservices arrivingat (ticks).They are notregistered guides,althoughtheymaycarry(false)identificationcards, Mp p134; (Map Mp p134; (Map Mp p134; (Map % % Recommended inZan- Mp p134; (Map 223 7344)Atthesouthwest- 223 3543;samatours@zitec Mp p134; (Map Mp p134; (Map % 223 0366;www % papasi: % 223 0406; % 223 0666; 223 mostare hopingthatyourstayontheisland willmean Hotel; budget. Rd)OppositeMazsons [email protected]; Kenyatta tours on the archipelago and beyond. It’s off Malindi St. tours onthearchipelagoandbeyond.It’soffMalindi Awiderangeofhigh-qualityupmarket .zantours.com) women in ing cupstoattractcustom,oragroupof long-spouted potfastened over coals,clack- hanging verandas, acoffee vendor withhis Quran, abeautifuloldmansionwithover- full of children chanting verses fromthe streets bringssomethingnew,beitaschool theless, each twistandturnof thenarrow oronCreek Rd.Never-either theseafront soonerorlater, you’llendupon because, youcan’tgetlost –although lostforlong spend dayswanderingaroundandgetting ble of cobbledalleywayswhere it’seasyto Stone Townisitssoul, withamagicaljum- If Townisthearchipelago’s heart, Zanzibar Sights Zan Tours Tropical Tours cultural melange cometolife: Arabic-style sip. Alongtheway,watch theisland’s rich lamic women)sharingajoke andlocalgos- ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO (Map (Map p134 ; bui-bui Mp p134; (Map % (garmentswornbyIs- 223 3042,3116;www papasi, % 223 0868,0747-413454; ifyou’re being

133 TANZANIA ὄὄ ὄὄὈὈ ὄὄὈὈ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ

TANZANIA Znia Town Zanzibar 134 4 6 1 3 2 5 ZANZIBAR TOWN ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••ZanzibarTown ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO (70km) To DaresSalaam See Enlargement

0 Shangani St Ὀ Ὀ ὄὈὈ ὄὄὄὈὈ ὄ ὈὈ Ὀ Zanzibar Channel 59 AC

Shangani

Shangani 1 St Square Kelele 60 64

Kenyatta 76 39

17 Rd

Shangani Baghani Court

High Gizenga St Gizenga 100 m 56

Ὀ Ὀ ὄ ὄ Ὀ Ὀ St 78 74 35 14

Vuga Pipalwadi Old British 26 Consulate 46 67

75

Ca 53

Mnazi Mmoja

34 Kaunda Rd Kaunda 12 70 thed

42 Keny

Hospital atta Rd

St ral B 11

15 3 55 8

St Baghani St Baghani 65 61 6 32 37

7 Vuga Rd Vuga 63 36

57 47 St Gizenga

33

Hamamni 73 Museum Hurumzi 13 Soko 77 62 21

9

40 45 Muhogo Muhogo

69 20 Soko

St

Rd Nyumba St

St Mizingani 44 To MbweniRuins 27 22 Mkunazini 41 Airport (7km)

23 Hotel (5km); ya Moto St Moto ya 50

Hurumzi Cha 24 New Mkun New

Hu nga

St ru Rd

5 m Mkunazini

2 Baza 4 Old Customs Cricket Grounds zi

Mnazi Mmoja St Zanzibar Channel azini Rd azini 43 House 49 ar 18 Ὀ ὄ ὄ 54

Big Tree Mapinduzi Rd Mapinduzi Creek Rd 71 81 19

48 Kip

80 Gardens Jamhuri

66 To Pemba 10 St onda 28 200m 0.1miles 0 0

31 Malindi www.lonelyplanet.com 25 Immigration Customs & Rd

To Matemwe(50km); 83 Darajani St St Malindi

To JozaniForest(35km); Kokoni St Malindi 30 72 Nungwi (60km) Makunduchi (65km) D East CoastBeaches;

Kizimkazi (60km); 79

68

Ng'ambo Malawi Mlandege Afrique Ciné

Creek Rd 16 Rd 29 Funguni 38 82

St 58 52 51 Rd www.lonelyplanet.com Museum of History & Culture &Culture ofHistory Museum el-AjaibBeit –home tothe BEIT EL-AJAIB (HOUSEOFWONDERS) itsmajor features. tosee putting inaneffort ply lettingitunfoldbefore you,it’sworth with lively street-side vending stalls. bazaarswork, andbustlingoriental alternate ings boastingornate balconiesandlattice- rub shoulders withIndian-influencedbuild- withtheirrecessed innercourtyards houses who had tried to seize thethrone after the who hadtried toseize bin Barghash, which was to force Khalid British naval bombardment, theobjectof nial palace. In 1896itwasthe target of a (r1870–88) asaceremo- Barghash tures inZanzibar. Itwasbuiltin1883 by 3pm Sat&Sun) Rd;admissionUS$3; Mizingani Ijumaa Mosque...... Hamamni PersianBaths...... Forodhani Gardens...... Darajani Market...... &MakusuraniGraveyard.... Beit el-Sahel(PalaceMuseum) Collection...... Museum)NaturalHistory Beit el-Amani(PeaceMemorial (PeaceMemorialMuseum).. Beit el-Amani Anglican Cathedral...... Aga KhanMosque...... Zanzibar MedicalGroup...... Zan Tours...... Tropical Tours...... Suna Tours...... Shangani PostOffice...... Shangani InternetCafé...... Shangani ForexBureau...... Pharmacy...... Shamshu &Sons Sama Tours...... Robin's Collection...... Queens BureaudeChange.....(see12) NBC Bank&ATM...... Madeira Tours&Safaris...... Macrosoft InternetCafé...... Languages...... Institute ofSwahili&Foreign Hasina SoftTelecentre...... (see13) Fernandes Tours&Safaris...... Eco +CultureTours...... Outlet...... History&Culture...... NationalMuseumof Wonders)&Zanzibar Beit el-Ajaib(Houseof Bahari Divers...... Coastal Travels'LocalCurrency SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION While thebestpartof StoneTownissim- –isoneof thelargest struc-

h 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 20 19 21 Mp p134 ; (Map 1 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 C3 C4 B3 D4 C3 C6 C6 C4 C3 A5 D3 B2 B4 B2 B2 B1 C4 B4 B2 B1 B2 C4 C5 B5 C4 A2 B1 B4 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Zanzibar National Mr Mitu'sOffice(SpiceTours).. One Ocean/TheZanzibar Old Fort&ZanzibarCultural Hotel Kiponda...... Hotel International...... Haven GuestHouse...... Garden Lodge...... Florida GuestHouse...... Flamingo GuestHouse...... Emerson &Green...... Dhow Palace...... Clove Hotel...... Chavda Hotel...... Beyt al-Chai...... Bandari Lodge...... Baghani HouseHotel...... Victoria Hall&Gardens...... State House...... St Joseph'sCathedral...... DiveCentre...... Old SlaveMarket...... (see19) Old SlaveChambers...... (see54) Centre...... Old Dispensary...... Msikiti waBalnara...... Café-Restaurant...... Archipelago Amore Mio...... Zanzibar SerenaInn...... Warere TownHouse...... Victoria House...... Tembo HouseHotel...... Shangani Hotel...... St Monica'sHostel...... Mazsons Hotel...... Manch Lodge...... (see47) Malindi Lodge...... Malindi GuestHouse...... Jambo GuestHouse...... SLEEPING EATING % 223 0873; Stone Town.There’s also alife-sized erb, wornbywomen) andthehistoryof prov-wraparound, incorporating aSwahili smaller displayson plus and19th-century Zanzibar, civilisation dhow culture of theIndianOcean,Swahili Insideareuntil hisdeath. exhibits onthe theupperfloorasaresidentialused palace it wasrebuilt, Hamoud Sultan (r1902–11) dicate infavour of After a British nominee. death of Hamad Sultan (r1893–96),toab- Mon-Fri, to3pmSat &Sun) Mon-Fri, (Map p134 Rd;admission US$3; ; Mizingani el-Ajaib,Just north of theBeit is BEIT EL-SAHEL (PALACE MUSEUM) the sultan’s residencethe sultan’s until1964 when the with coconutfibres and woodenpegs). without nails,the planksheldtogether only vessel made(a traditionalSwahili sailing ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO 29 31 52 51 50 49 30 58 57 56 55 54 53 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 61 60 59 48 D2 B6 B6 B4 B1 B4 B1 A2 A2 C4 B5 B5 B5 C5 C4 B2 C4 B2 A2 D2 B2 D3 D2 B5 B1 B2 C5 B2 D3 D2 C5 C3 D3 ZanAir...... (see 16) Transport Stand...... Traffic Police...... Riverman Hotel...... Precision Air...... (see53) Oman Air...... Kenya Airways...... (see53) Ferry Tickets...... Coastal Aviation...... (see1) Asko Tours&Travel...... (see13) Air Tanzania...... Zanzibar Gallery...... Memories ofZanzibar...... (see12) Twinkling Stars...... (see59) Culture MusicalClub...... (see45) Starehe Club...... Garage Club...... Dharma Lounge...... (see75) Africa HouseHotel...... Sweet Eazy...... Street Food...... Shamshuddin's Cash&Carry.... Restaurant...... Sambusa TwoTables Radha FoodHouse...... Passing Show...... Monsoon Restaurant...... Mercury's...... Restaurant...... Livingstone Beach La Fenice...... Fany's GreenRestaurant...... TopRestaurant...... (see43) SHOPPING TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Emerson's &GreenTower China PlateRestaurant...... kangas . This palace served as . This palace served (printed cotton

Beit el-Sahel h 9am-6pm mtepe 77 80 79 78 63 67 66 65 64 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 76 75 83 82 81 62 135 B1 C3 D2 B1 D4 D3 C4 B2 B4 C3 B1 A2 D4 C4 B5 B1 D3 B3 B1 A1 B1 B1

TANZANIA TANZANIA h the Africa(UMCA),sities’ MissiontoCentral Constructed inthe1870sbyUniver- MARKET ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL & OLDSLAVE dance performances. Inside isanopen-airtheatre formusicand International FilmFestivalZanzibar (ZIFF). Centre Zanzibar Cultural partiallyrenovatedit hasbeen the tohouse fence Inrecent againstthePortuguese. years chapelPortuguese byOmaniArabsasade- originally builtaround1700onthesite of a (Map p134 ), amassive, bastionedstructure el-AjaibJust southof theBeit istheOldFort OLD FORT where someof are thesultans buried. niture. OutsideistheMakusurani graveyard, whom clearlyhadvery different tastes infur- roub (r1911–60),andhistwowives, each of quarters binHa- of Khalifa thelastsultan, The 3rdfloorconsistsof themodestliving Barghash. underSultan duced toZanzibar as pipedwater andelectricitywere intro- 1896, duringwhich modernamenitiessuch focus ontheperiodoffrom1870to affluence autobiography. Theexhibitsonthe2ndfloor toEurope,andlater wrotewith aGerman an princess whoeloped cess Salme,aZanzibari to 1870.There isalsomemorabiliaof Prin- formative periodof thesultanatefrom1828 sultanate. totheeraofdevoted theZanzibar dynasty wasoverthrown. Nowit’samuseum 136 dral The spires of ST JOSEPH’SCATHEDRAL entrance isnextto StMonica’sHostel. are stillheldatthecathedralonSundays; the under StMonica’sHostel nextdoor. Services market todayother thansomeholdingcells nothingremainsRd, although of theslave site of theoldslave market alongsideCreek Africa. Itwasbuiltonthe thedral inEast even when the front entrance is closed.) The whenthe front entrance isclosed.) even gate of the church, which isusually open, zenga St, thentake thefirst to the back right adjacent streets. (Follow Kenyatta RdtoGi- tofind inthenarrow confinesofdifficult the zibar byferry. Yet thechurch isdeceptively travellerssights whenarrivingatZan- see The ground floor displays details ofThe groundfloordisplaysdetails the 8am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Anglican cathedral ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO (Map (Map p134 ; Cathedral St St Joseph’s Roman Catholic cathe- St Joseph’sRomanCatholic wasthefirst Anglicanca-

(Map (Map p134 , andtheofficesof the ) are oneof thefirst ; admissionTSh1000; and small displays of localartists’ work. boutiques andshops, Trust, andnow houses renovatedbeen bytheAga Charitable Khan Indianmerchant.century by awealthy It has rently closed. el-AjaibCulture atBeit ( p135 ), andare cur- of NationalMuseum History& Zanzibar are intheprocessof beingmerged withthe a decayingnaturalhistorycollection. Both the smallerbuildingacrossroad housed from itsearlydaysuntilindependence, while ahistoryofpreviously contained theisland walk fromtown, or take a‘B’ TouristCorporation.Youcan the Zanzibar his lastexpedition. Thebuildingnowhouses herestone alsostayed before on off setting journeys tothemainland.David Living- aries andexplorers before their theystarted mission- bymanyEuropean asabase used Near theport, OLD DISPENSARY (Map p131 ; BububuRd) About 2kmnorthof town, LIVINGSTONE HOUSE up The larger of thetwobuildingsthatmake (PEACE MEMORIALMUSEUM) BEIT EL-AMANI sion TSh500) century, these inthelate 19th Barghash Built bySultan HAMAMNI PERSIANBATHS made ifyouare appropriately dressed. exceptionsmaybe in active although use, to enter manyof themosques,asthey’re all Ijumaa Mosque Mosque Khan Ali binSaidin 1890. Others include the larged in1841andextended againbySeyyid Map p134 ), originallybuiltin1831,en- waBalnara Msikiti The oldestof StoneTown’smosquesis MOSQUES in 1998,andisstillactive use. architect celebrated itscentenary Beranger, cathedral, which wasdesignedbyFrench unlock thegate. get in,askthecaretaker acrossthealleyto were thefirst publicbaths onZanzibar. To Mizingani Rd) Mizingani Beit el-Amani , which are nolonger functioning, wasbuilt attheturnof the20th (Map p134 ) andtheimpressive (Map p134 ). It’snotpermitted baths

(Malindi Minaret Mosque; (Map (Map p134 &Creek Rds) ; cnrKaunda wasbuiltaround1860and (Map (Map p134 ; HamamniSt;admis- Old Dispensary www.lonelyplanet.com Livingstone House daladala

Mp p134; (Map . Aga Aga

also have opposite Sharouk abase Guest bank. They isnear NBC Town. Theoffice around the islandsoffshore from Stone that primarilyorganises divesfriendly outfit is stillfresh. heat andthecrowds,wheneverything Rd, andatitsbestinthemorning,before the plastic tubstoautospares. Creek It’sjustoff ens of from everything smallshopsselling oured pilesof fruitsand vegetables, anddoz- vendors hawkingtheirwares, col- brightly ing withthestench of fish,theclamourof of withoccasionalwhiffs spicesmix- senses, Darajani market (Map p134 ofThe dark,narrowpassageways chaotic ) MARKETDARAJANI island istostopby One of intolife thebestwaystoease onthe FORODHANI GARDENS www.lonelyplanet.com include thefollowing: snack orlunch. Recommended operators to US$50perhalf day,often including a Tripsaverageonly accessibleby boat. US$20 ting agoodmask. Mostsnorkelling sites are it,payparticular attention toget-selecting hire costs fromUS$5toUS$15;whenyou’re erators alsooffer snorkelling. Equipment see p138 . Mostof the archipelago’s dive op- For more ondivingaroundthearchipelago, DIVING &SNORKELLING Activities opposite. House, the public,asisState to during theBritishera. Todayit’sclosed Kaunda thelegislative Rd,housed council nally acrossfromMnaziMmoja on hospital The imposingVictoriaHall, which isdiago- HALLVICTORIA &GARDENS 415011; www.zanzibar-diving.com) the OldFort. The gardensare opposite alongtheseafront ing andmenstrollingalongthewaterfront. ofabout theevents theday,children play- with womensittingonthegrasschatting The gardensare point, alsoasocialmeeting naan chapati), athick,deliciouslocalversion of pizza(rolled-up,omelette-filledZanzibari grilled upsuch delicaciesas ens of vendors serving when thegrassyplazacomesalive withdoz- turi Gardens;Map p134 ) intheevening, Bahari Divers Bahari , pluspilesof andmore. chips, samosas pweza (octopus),plates of goatmeat,

Mp p134; (Map Forodhani Gardens % isasmall, family- 0748-245786, 0747-

assault theassault (Jami- computers. cameras, prescription masksandSuunto bank–hires underwater tunnel andNBC –justdownfromthe Town. Themainoffice along theeastcoast,aswellaroundStone Village ( Beach p146 ), andorganise dives branches, includingatMatemweseveral decade of experienceonZanzibar. They have is aPADI five-star centre withmore thana % of theAnglican cathedral: townnear The followingplaces are ontheeastern edge Mkunazini BUDGET Sleeping formoreBusara; informationsee p253 . clude MwakaKogwa,theZIFFand Sautiza see on Zanzibar; p624 . Otherfestivals in- Muslim holidaysare celebrated inabigway Festivals &Events ( interest. ofwell asruinsandothersights historical day excursions as take insomeplantations, half- in thewild–on‘spicetours’. These cloves, vanillaandotherspiceslooklike sible tovisitthem–learningaboutwhat still dotthecentre of theisland.It’spos- bar’s economyastheyoncedid,plantations While spicesnolonger dominate Zanzi- SPICE TOURS Pemba. ( House p156 ) inWete fordivingaround US$12/24/36, s/d with private bathroomUS$28/32 US$12/24/36, s/dwith private [email protected]; s/d/trwithshared bathroom [email protected]; Mkunazini St; s/[email protected]; Mkunazini expensive restaurant nextdoor. ing some withasmallveranda, andan in- cathedral, withspacious rooms,includ- old, ramblingplace nexttotheAnglican no troubletojustshowupinthemorning. it’susually to bookadayinadvance,though isincluded).It’sbest at Mangapwani Beach and return byabout2.30pm(later, ifastop Theydepart about9.30am you’ve justseen. with someof the spices local foodseasoned in agroupof 15,andincludealunch of Ciné Afrique. Tours costUS$10perperson % St Monica’sHostel To organise things,try Centre ZanzibarDive One Ocean/The Flamingo Guest House ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO 223 8374,0748-750161;www.zanzibaroneocean.com) 223 4636) , signposted offMalawi Rdnear

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TANZANIA TANZANIA willing to negotiate onprices. forward rooms andaTV. They’re often 138 US$10/20) bathroomwith shared bathroom US$8/16,withprivate 20/30; [email protected]; s/d/trwith shared bathroom US$15/ Jambo Guest House around theNjaoGap. Island.Mostdivesners, especiallyaround Misali are andtothenorth tothewestaround Misali, with anemphasisonwallanddriftdives, thoughthere are somesheltered areas for begin- channel withasteeply droppingshelf. Becauseof this, divingtends tobemore challenging, many easilyaccessedsites forbeginner andmidrangedivers. Whilesomesites are and northeast. challenging,chance toseepelagics there tothenorth are shipwrecks offshore from StoneTown,andforfairlyreliable visibility,highfishdiversity andthe Diver, andspecialitycoursesincludingunderwater photographyandnavigation. many operatorsalsooffer othercourses, includingAdvancedOpenWater, MedicFirst Aid,Rescue 10% ifyouhave yourownequipment,andfor groups. Inadditiontoopen-water certification, andfromaboutUS$50foranightdive. package, Mostplacesdiscountabout single-/double-dive day Professional Association ofDive (PADI) Instructors open-water course,about US$45/75fora Costs are somewhatcheaper onZanzibarthanPemba. topayfromUS$350forafour- Expect Costs, Courses&Planning 2mm are finefromaroundDecembertoMarchorApril. 4mm suitsare recommended forsomeareas duringtheJulytoSeptember winter months,and in February andMarch,withtheaverage about26°C.Throughout, 3mmwetsuitsare standard; September toNovember duringthelullbetween theannualmonsoons. Onbothislands,the calmest timeisgenerallyfromaround monsoon windsblowfromthenorth. from thesouth,butcalmandclearasglassaroundNovember tolate February whenthe example, thesoutheastern seas canberougharoundJuneandJulywhenthewindisblowing the bestoverall, factor. althoughagain,conditionsvaryandwindisanimportant OnPemba, for water temperatures are alsowarmer. Julyor August throughtoFebruary orMarchtend tobe However, even inMarchwhen duringthisperiodyoucanhave somegooddays,particularly is generallytheleastfavourabletimebecauseoferraticweatherpatterns andfrequent storms. Diving ispossibleyear-round, althoughconditions varydramatically.Late Marchuntilmid-June Seasons theRedSeaorThailand.than inplaceslike travel –often foruptoanhour–manyofthedive sites. Andpricesare considerablyhigher archipelago exclusively arrangement,you’llneedto fordiving,isthatunlessyoudoa live-aboard ranges of25mto30m.Anotherthingconsider,ifyou’re aseriousdiver andcomingtothe visibility isn’tasreliable asinsomeareas oftheworld,althoughsometimesyou’llbetreated to tocombinewildlife safariswithunderwaterthe opportunity exploration.Onthedownside, include thepossibilityofwalldives, especiallyoffPemba; thefascinatingculturalbackdrop;and barracudasandsharks. draws cluding shadowymantarays,hawksbillandgreen Other turtles, with amagnificentarrayofhardandsoftcorals,diverse ofseacreatures, collection in- The archipelago’sturquoisewaters astheyare are fromabove, justasamazingbelowthesurface DIVING THEZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO For more ondiving,see p619 . Dive operatorsare listed bylocationelsewhere inthischapter. Zanzibar,whichisacontinental island,PembaUnlike isanoceanic islandlocated inadeep As fordecidingwhere todive: Zanzibarisknownforthecoralsand very generallyspeaking, Water temperatures rangefromlowsofabout22°CinJulyandAugust tohighsofabout29°C a No-frills but fine,withstraight- ) Just aroundthe corner from Fla-

Mp p134; (Map % 223 3779;jambo are afew more good places: South of Mkunazini, off Soko Muhogo St, Soko Muhogo opposite. roomsandanIternetand coffee, clean café Jambomingo GuestHouse, hasfree tea www.lonelyplanet.com with shared bathroomUS$10) off Kaunda Rd. shower, andanagreeably green locationjust cious rooms,includingaquadwith itsown ahead. as youexit theport;it’s just twominutes a common kitchen andfridge. Turn right discounts for stays ofdiscounts forstays over twodays. next toCulture MusicalClub,andthere are bathroom –andsolicitousproprietors. It’s few asthey’re alldifferent) –manywith the corner from Bandari Lodge.the cornerfromBandari race. It’sjustminutes from theport,around with hotwater andfan –plusarooftop ter- rooms –somewith smallbalconiesandall have bathroom. withoutthekitchenette;though some rooms ner fromHaven andsimilar, GuestHouse, .wareretownhouse.com; s/dUS$20/40) son US$15) VugaRd;rperper- 0747-411335; [email protected]; around VugaRd: Near thesouthernedge of StoneTown, Vuga kitchenette. freeletin board, coffee andtea andasmall www.lonelyplanet.com clutch of lodges: five-minute walkfromtheport,isanother On thenorthernsideof town,andabouta Malindi value. the upstairs roomsare spaciousandgood Court–isconvenientfrom theHigh and egory, butthelocation–diagonallyacross somewhat pricierthanothers in thiscat- walls andatmosphericrooms. upstairs US$25/40/50) Rd;s/d/trdownstairsUS$15/25/35, Kaunda zanlink.com; r perpersonUS$12) s/d US$15/25) with private bathroomUS$25/40; with private [email protected]; s/dwithshared bathroomUS$20/30, [email protected]; Funguni Rd; s/dUS$15/25; yahoo.com; r per personUS$10) yahoo.com; Malindi Lodge Malindi Garden Lodge Garden Bandari Lodge Bandari Haven GuestHouse Haven Florida GuestHouse Florida Lodge Manch Malindi GuestHouse Malindi Victoria House Victoria Warere TownHouse Warere Small,cleanrooms(check outa Cleanrooms,atravellers’ bul-

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are recommended. Kenyatta It’sjustoff Rd. ings. Advancebookingsandreconfirmations furnish- –darkwoodandZanzibari staircase reachedmost ontheupperlevel, viaasteep mospheric hotel hascharacterful rooms – US$45/55) bathroom shared bathroomUS$18/35/45,d/trwithprivate NyumbayaMotoSt;s/d/trwith [email protected]; zanzinet.com, BaghaniSt;s/dUS$70/90) has arestaurant. fridge andfan.Italso rooms, mostwithTV, post officewithcluttered butcomfortable An unpretentious placeopposite Shangani the corner from Baghani House Hotel. House the cornerfromBaghani only).It’sjustaround restaurant season (high tele phone andminibar,arooftop barand a range of bland, carpeted roomswithTV, quiet, reliable hotel withsomeperioddécor, .zanzibarhotel.nl; HurumziSt;s/dUS$30/45,familyrUS$55) .zanzibarhotel.nl; choices. Outside theShangani area are more several Elsewhere inStoneTown Rd;s/dUS$65/80) [email protected]; Kenyatta Shangani. Most midrange placesare inornear Shangani MIDRANGE House. just aroundthecornerfromMalindi Guest water andcheaper annexroomsnearby;it’s Clean andnicelydecorated, andwithhot race for breakfast, drinksand views. small square below. Ontherooftop isater- small balconies withviews downontothe nets andfan.The familyroomsalsohave peach, Clove has good-value rooms with Painted shadesof inpleasing lavender and waterfront. There’s alsoarestaurant. cation, tucked the away inasmalllanenear soulless rooms. forits that gosomewaytocompensating lobby woodworkandaconvenient location Mazsonsstanding hasimpressively restored [email protected]; sUS$40,dUS$50-60) [email protected]; s/d US$45/60; [email protected]; zanlink.com; Kenyatta Rd; s/dUS$60/80; Kenyatta zanlink.com; Chavda Hotel Mazsons Hotel Mazsons Clove Hotel Clove Baghani HouseHotel Kiponda Hotel Hotel International Hotel Shangani Hotel ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Spotlessroomsinaconvenient lo-

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TANZANIA TANZANIA .emerson-green.com; HurumziSt;rUS$165-200) .emerson-green.com; .tembohotel.com; s/dfromUS$85/95; Jacuzzi-style baths. andraised inthedistance, views tothesea splurge, tryoneof suites, theSultan with signed, andallwithperioddécor. Fora Inn, withsixrooms,each individually de- Serena good newplaceopposite Zanzibar the hotel isafavourite withtourgroups. breakfast.and abuffet Noalcohol isserved; andfridge. Thehotel alsohasarestaurant TV views –innewandoldwings.Most have a location, andmodernrooms–somewithsea tractively restored building has awaterfront the amenities,andabusinesscentre. onthewater, plushroomswithall setting upmarket accommodation,withabeautiful Town’smost isZanzibar telecoms House, intherefurbished Serena, Ex- The Zanzibar zanlink.com; s/dUS$60/90; zanlink.com; Sq;sUS$75-200,dUS$100-225) towninn.com; Kelele Emerson &Green Hurumzi Inn Zanzibar Serena Shangani TOP END there’s arooftop terrace. fridge andsmallbalcony, Most have TV, a few, andavoid onthelowerfloor. those somearen’tless rooms,though bad.Check a forex bureau, arestaurant andrathersoul- multistorey placeisjustoff KipondaSt, with 140 tions thatmake agreeable if youwant bases Just outside Stone Town are afew more op- Outside Stone Town It’s justoffKenyatta Rd. lobby andsmallbutwell-appointed rooms. inthetastefully restoreddécor, afountain another classicplacewitholdZanzibari of the OldFort. windingblockseast in itsheyday.It’sseveral must haveidea of like been whatZanzibar all are decadentlydecorated togive youan has itsownprivate rooftop – and teahouse roomisunique–oneeven stitution. Each of in- character andhasbecomea Zanzibar that have completely restored been –isfull & Green –intwoadjacenthistoricbuildings zanzinet.com; Kelele Sq;s/dfromUS$210/265; zanzinet.com; Kelele Tembo HouseHotel Dhow Palace Beyt al-Chai ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO

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traditional music. urday, withabackdropof onTuesdayandSat- becues (TSh17,500) grills,andwaterside andmeat bar-seafood The mainrestaurant here offers arange of dishes fromthesubcontinent. thalis, lassis, tunnel. Themenu–strictlyvegetarian –has small sidestreet justbefore theShangani This great littleplaceistucked awayonthe TSh5000-10,000; on the waterfront near NBC bank. on thewaterfront NBC near town where youcanget foodlate It’s atnight. destinations. It’salsooneof thefew spotsin is oneof StoneTown’smore popularevening and variedentertainment offerings, thisplace ing ambience,goodThaiandAfricancuisine, sipping sundowners. bar andaterrace that’saprimelocationfor are grillsandpizzas, a well-stocked seafood Town’s mainwaterside hang-outs.Onoffer just afew blocksaway),thisisoneof Stone vocalist Freddie Mercury (whowasborn [email protected]; mealsTSh8000-TSh20,000; reservations are required.reservations course of deliciouslocaldelicacies. Advance where theproprietors after bring outcourse small, family-run restaurant off Kaunda Rd, this dishes,it’shardtobeat tic Zanzibari rumzi St;mealsUS$25-30; p134; your ownalcohol. There’ssweets. nobar,butyoucanbring per, plusanarrayof homemadecakes and coconut curry,andorange andginger snap- www.lonelyplanet.com meals TSh10,000; h TSh3000-6000; looking thewater. It’s justnext toNBC. onabreezy 1st-floor terrace over-served traditional musicanddance. toabackdropof areSunday, meals served tions are OnFriday,Saturdayand essential. out.Themenuisfixed,evening andreserva- ence itoncewas,stillmakes anenjoyable that itisnolonger theintimate diningexperi- institution, andwhileitspopularitymeans rooftop restaurant hasbecomeaZanzibari Mercury’s Mercury’s Sambusa TwoTables Restaurant Emerson’s & Green TowerTopRestaurant Emerson’s &Green Radha FoodHouse Radha China Plate Restaurant China Plate Sweet Eazy Mtoni Marine Centre Mtoni Marine 10am-midnight) % 0747-423266; www.emerson-green.com; Hu- 0747-423266; www.emerson-green.com; h

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TANZANIA TANZANIA be prepared forratherflattouristdisplays. although withdinnerTSh10,000), (TSh5000, the Garage Club. ofwith agoodselection music.It’snextto outside. across fromTembo wait Hotel; taxis House See also See p140 sports barthatdrawsamainlyexpatcrowd. small shopsandcraftdealers. isGizengaSt,whichto start islinedwith excellent buystobefound.Thebestplace someofthrough thekitsch, there are some craft shopping,andifyoucansortyourway Stone Townhaswonderfullyatmospheric Shopping tional ings from7pmto10pm,there are tradi- On Tuesday,Thursday andSaturdayeven- TRADITIONAL MUSIC&DANCE occasional reggae nights. happenatall),with (sometimes itdoesn’t a 142 swahilicoast.com; cnr Kenyatta Rd&GizengaSt; cnrKenyatta swahilicoast.com; 7pm Mon-Sat,to1pmSun) Wed-Mon) Mcheza Bar Starehe Club Starehe Club Garage Dharma Lounge Zanzibar Gallery something livelier, head tothe a groupcalled theTwinkling Starsplaysfromabout 6pmto7.30pm onTuesday andFriday. For guitarsandsynthesisedsound. with keyboards, primarily traditional instruments,and‘modern Today mostZanzibaris distinguishbetween‘old thefirstlady of chipelago, andBiKidude, Hamoud binMuhammedencouraged formationofthefirst it hadbeenintroducedfromArabia. However, itwasn’tuntilthe1900s,whenSultanSeyyid double meaningsintertwined. There is alsoalwaysasingerinvolved, withthemescentringaround love, andmanypuns themselves areformalised. The performances quite iskey. anevent, andaudienceparticipation free; Indian influences. strains of No visittoZanzibarwouldbecomplete withoutspendinganevening listening totheevocative MUSIC TAARAB taarab ) ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO Zanzibar’s first lounge, andonlycocktail Zanzibar’s For an introduction to For anintroduction Famous Taarab ngoma h Stone Town’smaindisco. Diagonally performances isduring theFestival performances of theDhow Countries ( p253 ) in July. Tue-Sat) -style musicwasplayedinZanzibaras earlyasthe1820satsultan’spalace,where taarab,

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h 9am- A taarab taarab taarab 334582) Next to Zanzibar Serena Inn,andattheairport. toZanzibarSerena 334582) Next southeast oftheBigTree. Together withPrecision Air. Oman Air Airways Kenya Coastal Aviation Air Tanzania the following: onOmanAirviaMuscat. from Zanzibar Mombasa. DaresSalaam, Nairobiand Zanzibar, Kenya Airwayshave direct between flights connections toNairobi,andPrecision Air/ andDaresSalaam,with Zanzibar between Pemba (US$80).AirTanzania fliesdaily Aviation dailyto/fromTanga also goes via (US$130) andthenorthernparks.Coastal Pemba GameReserve (US$70), Selous laam (US$55),Arusha(US$140toUS$175), withDaresSa- connectZanzibar ZanAir Aviation withCoastal Daily flights and AIR &Away There Getting and more, inadditiontoitsbooks. antiques souvenirs, textiles, woodcarvings, a selection ofa selection jewellery,textiles andcurios. zanzinet.com; Kenyatta Rd) zanzinet.com; Kenyatta Diagonally acrossfromTembo Hotel. music,whohelped popularise

(Map (Map p134 ; Vuga Rd;admissionTSh1000, sometimes Airline offices in Zanzibar Towninclude Airline officesinZanzibar There are direct international connections ofZanzibar Memories ’, whichexpands ’, whichisplayedby anorchestrausing Mp p134; (Map taarab Mp p134; (Map Mp p134; (Map (Map (Map p134 ; clubs,thatitbecamemore % taarab taarab Just downtheroad,with % 223 8308; Mizingani Rd)Just 223 8308;Mizingani

% 223 0213;ShanganiSt) ( www.lonelyplanet.com % % singeronthear- ’s traditionalbase 223 4521; Kenyatta Rd) 223 4521;Kenyatta 223 3112,0747- 223 9376;memories@ taarab clubs.

opposite CinéAfrique. the mainland. Also see the mainland.Alsosee p261 . Allow from10to48hours ormore toreach aretains generally unwillingtotake tourists. Tembo Hotel ( House p140 cap- ), though other routes, askaroundatthebeach behind DaresSalaamandZanzibar.between For the earlymorninghours. when theboatdocksinDaresSalaam take care withyourvaluables,especially the at onthe Zanzibar tickets get can atravel You port orthrough agent. Ifyouleave p157. and p154 andPemba, Zanzibar nections between see and DaresSalaam,see p125 . Forferry con- For ferry Zanzibar connectionsbetween BOAT ZanAir Air Precision www.lonelyplanet.com South Africa, or a Zanzibar permit. Zanzibar permit. Zanzibar South Africa, oraZanzibar licence, alicence from Kenya, Uganda or driver.work out agooddealwith ataxi and not that much more expensive justto the islandis,it’soften more straightforward moped accidents. breakdowns are fairly common, asare cycle hire. Pricesare reasonable, although It’s easytoarrange car,mopedormotor- CAR &MOTORCYCLE on location. the islandcharge aboutUS$30,depending somecharge.though Hotels elsewhere on airport pick-upsforconfirmedbookings, Manyhospital. StoneTownhotels offer free ing fromthecorneropposite MnaziMmoja thisroute, depart- No 505buslinealsodoes depending onyournegotiatingskills. The totravel TSh10,000 theminataxi, between to Townanditcosts TSh6000 Zanzibar The airport isabout7kmsoutheastof TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Salaam. the ticket attheTazara inDares station Tazara fee; youpayfor lineforaTSh1000 makesglican Cathedral, bookingsforthe Riverman Hotel (Map p134 ), neartheAn- TRAIN Next to Mazsons Hotel. toMazsons Next Foreigners are notpermitted ondhows You’ll need eitheraninternationalYou’ll need driving Mp p134; (Map Mp p134; (Map % Flying Horse 223 3670) Just off Malindi Rd, 223 3670)JustoffMalindi Considering how small % 223 4521; Kenyatta Rd) 223 4521;Kenyatta night ferry, night livery, butdon’tpayanyadvancedeposits. payment isusuallyrequired atthetimeof de- sonable condition,andtake atest drive. Full motorbike orvehicle you’re hiringisinrea- some one alongwhocancheck thatthe If you’re notmechanically minded,bring in frontof themarket, nearthebusstand. Shangani orbyaskingaround postoffice; Rd) 422841; [email protected];Kenyatta 510 Mtoni/Kidatu 509 Chukwani 505 Airport 504 Fuoni 502 Bububu 501 Amani (marked 326 Kizimkazi 324 Bwejuu 310 Makunduchi ‘U/Ndege’) 309 Jambiani 308 Unguja 214 Uroa 206 Chwaka 121 Donge Ukuu 118 Matemwe 117 Kiwengwa 116 Nungwi 101 Mkokotoni Destination Route to Jambiani). routes: Commonlyused Town (eg aboutthree hours fromZanzibar andalltakethan TSh1000, plentyof time 3pm or4pm.Noneof theroutes costmore ones backtoStoneTowndepartingbyabout there are vehicles several daily,withthelast tinations, includingallthemainbeaches, Rd opposite Darajani market. Formostdes- towns ontheisland,leaving from Creek with peopleandproducelinkallmajor Open-sided pick-ups DALADALAS through can hire anyof through thetourcompanies; US$50 toUS$70foraSuzuki4WD.You a moped,US$30formotorcycle,andfrom anytourcompany. orthrough for TSh6000, traffic policeoffice onthespotat permits canbeobtained to Paje, Bwejuu andJambiani onthe east Private minivans run daily toNungwi and PRIVATE MINIVAN Daily hire rates average aboutUS$25for ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Zanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Asko Tours&Travel Asko

(Malindi, cnr Malawi &Creek Rds) cnrMalawi (Malindi, (daladalas)

Mp p134; (Map , nextto packed %

0747- 143 TANZANIA TANZANIA Bububu road andareBububu road signposted. previous scale. Theruinsare justwestof the coveredervoirs with water lilies–hintatits race, anoverhead aqueductandsmallres- columns thatonce supported anupperter- theremainingalthough ruins– primarily harem. In1899itwasdestroyedbyfire, hislarge in1882to house Barghash Sultan Town,wasbuilt by 4km northof Zanzibar The once-imposing Maruhubi palace,about MARUHUBI PALACE the groundsof theMbweniRuinsHotel. amidlushgardens in School forGirls,set mospheric ruinsof theUMCA’s StMary’s theat- dating tothe1880s,youcansee still functioningStJohn’s Anglicanchurch, for freed slaves. Inaddition tothesmalland as a settlement thatwasused mission station Town, wasthesite of a19th-centuryUMCA Mbweni, around5kmsouthof Zanzibar MBWENI in spicetours (see p137 ). Town,manyof which areZanzibar included There are anumberof historicalsites around Ruins AROUND ZANZIBAR toTSh2000. Town tripscostTSh1000 with thedriver before getting intothecar. Taxis don’thave meters, so agree onaprice TAXI driver noryourmoneyagain. neitherthe trip inadvance,asyoumaysee agreed on.Also,don’tpayforthereturn taken tothedestinationyou’doriginally ityourself,andinsistonbeing until yousee anythingaboutahotel’sDon’t believe status perperson.and costsanegotiableTSh3000 1½ totwohours toanyof thedestinations, 8amand9am.TravelTown between takes vans willpickyouupatyourhotel inStone the daybefore youwanttotravel, andthe anytravela badidea. Bookthrough agency with toutsmeanthatasplurge isn’t onataxi competitionandhassles stiff coast, although 144 ing with a balconied exterior, an observation ing with abalconied exterior, anobservation build- its heyday the palacewas abeautiful century, are just northeastof Maruhubi. In Saidas hisresidenceSeyyid intheearly 19th The ruins of Mtoni palace, builtbySultan MTONI PALACE ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO nightlife, and staying at relativelynightlife, and staying inexpen- other travellers,For meeting enjoying some beach isamatter youchoose of preference. abundant fromDecember toFebruary). they mayalsohave (most lotsof seaweed Depending ontheseason, white coralsand. tected bycoralreefs offshore andhave fine, mainland. Theeast coastbeaches are pro- onthefrom bumpingalong dustyroads and built-up,all offer awonderfulrespite some haveAlthough becomeovercrowded along theisland’seastcoastandto north. hassuperb beaches, withthebest Zanzibar Beaches and Mangapwani village. Daladalas asmallsignfortheslaveuntil yousee cave. gapwani village. Continuetowardsthe sea a dirtroadforabout8kmtowards Man- fromwhereto Chuini, youhead leftdown was abolishedinthelate 19thcentury. holding pentohideslaves after thelegaltrade cave slave the slave trade. Northof here isthesobering inconnection with used pool, supposedly first isalarge coast. There are actuallytwolocations.The Townalongthe 20km northof Zanzibar The Mangapwani caves are located about Caves Mangapwani downanunpaved3km walkeast road. Bububu junction,fromwhere it’sabout a test thewaters. Take a502 lavishlySultan’s garbedcoterie disrobing to the with abitof imagination,youcansee ruins, they’re ratherunremarkable now,but point.Like island’s highest theothernearby builtin1850forhisPersianSeyyid, wife atthe Town, are anotherconstructionof Sultan The Persian Baths, northeastof Zanzibar KIDICHI PERSIANBATHS Said-Reute’s it oncemusthave looked byreading Emily youcanget ofwalls, although anidea how mains of Mtoni’sgrandeurotherthanafew abandoned,andtodaynothingre-had been turret andamosque. Bythemid-1880sit are signposted tothewest. forabout2km,fromwhereturn-off theruins Continue northpasttheMaruhubi palace Everyone has afavourite, andwhich north pastBububu Follow themainroad , a dank, dark cell that was used asa , adank,darkcellthatwasused also run between StoneTown alsorunbetween Memoirs of anArabian Princess natural cave www.lonelyplanet.com withafreshwater daladala tothe . from theairportorStoneTown. youcanarrangepolice station; free transport dirt trackheadingwestfromtheBububu onrequest.and meals It’sattheendof the that hasairyno-frills rooms near thebeach .bububu-zanzibar.com; s/dUS$15/30) of theBububupolicestation. the dirttrackheadingwestfromjustnorth via zibar Townforswimming.It’saccessed town in placetoZan- Bububu, istheclosest This modeststretch of 10kmnorthof sand, BUBUBU (FUJIBEACH) all of thebeaches istidedependent. you cantake adipatanytime,swimming KendwaNungwi (andnearby where Beach), fortowards PwaniMchangani. Except main area isthebeach northof Kiwengwa thelargeIf you’re seeking resort scene,the Pongwe orthenorthernendof Kiwengwa. much quieter atmosphere, tryMatemwe, out andquieter thaninthenorth.Fora anywhere ismore –buteverything spread est stretches of palm-fringed you’llfind sand coast are alsopopular–andamongthefin- east coast.BwejuuandJambiani on theeast Nungwi inthenorth,followedbyPaje onthe sive accommodation,thebestchoices are www.lonelyplanet.com and at Nungwi InnHotel, and aforex bureau There’s Internet access at AmaanBungalows Information water andsmall patches of beach. overlookingfew onlow cliffs hotels set the side of thepeninsulaismuch quieter, with a where itcanget quite crowded. Theeastern are justnorthandwest of Nungwi village, better beaches, andthecentre of alltheaction want togive it awideberth.Mosthotels, the place tobeonthe island;others willlikely atmosphere. Forsometravellers it’stheonly collection of andadefinite party guesthouses, another world,withblaringmusic, amotley few stepsandenter backfromthesand into woodenracksnearby.Yetdries onneat take a repairing theirnetswhilethemorning’s catch beach, fishermensitintheshade white-sand each otherwithfullforce. Onthebeautiful where traditionalandmodernknockagainst island’s major touristdestinations.It’salso tip, isadhow-building centre and oneof the northernmost This bigvillage, atZanzibar’s NUNGWI Bububu BeachGuestHouse isabudget haunt

( % 225 0110;www ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO [email protected]; s/dUS$20/40) US$104/177) housezanzibar.com; s/dUS$60/84,d/q familycottage bandas, spot topitch atent; italsohassomebasic to Cholo’s. andmeals(orderearly). It’sjustnext sand, Low key, no-frills withclean, roomsonthe and ahoneymoon chalet. familycottages withminifridge,sea-facing views,plusafewtages, larger somewithsea withadozenunassumingcot- ing thesea, on asmalloutcropoverlook-Nungwi. It’sset you cometoon the placideastern sideof US$15/25) hotel atNungwi, withalow-key ambience, bathroom US$10) sea viewsUS$50/75; bungalows.com; standardsUS$25-40,dUS$30-60,s/d with eastern side. Most placesinthiscategory are onNungwi’s Sleeping &Eating–Midrange TopEnd walk of each other. All thebeach placesare withinafew minutes Scuba Do NungwiBeachHotel Ras following: p138 operators includethe . Locallybased see For more ondivingaroundZanzibar, Diving travellers cheques atbadrates. at AmaanBungalowsthatchanges cashand US$235/350; nungwi.com; s/dfullboardUS$195/270, withseaviewfrom around TSh5000). restaurantsrooms, plusseveral (meals accommodation, includingnicer sea-view and thebiggest of place, withvariouslevels Beach Hotel. nungwi.com) APADI Nungwi centre basedatRas five-star Sleeping &Eating–Budget onlyPADIKendwa’s Rocks. ofKendwa divecentre; justnorth Bungalows. friendly, justaroundthebendfrom Amaan agreeable shoestring option. agreeable shoestring Jambo Brothers Union BeachBungalows Ras Nungwi BeachHotel Ras Mnarani BeachCottages Cholo’s Baraka BeachBungalows Baraka Amaan Bungalows NexttoJambo Brothers, andanother plusNungwi’sbestbar. (

% (camping US$5;bandasperpersonwithshared Thissmalllodge isthefirst place

h 0748-415179; www.scuba-do-zanzibar) 0748-415179; www.scuba-do-zanzibar) Very chilled out,andtheonly Jun-Mar) i

(s/d withshared bathroomUS$15/25) ) Atthecentre of activity,

The mostupmarket ( ( % %

(s/d withshared bathroom (

( % 224 0026;www.amaan % ( 223 3767;www.ras % 224 0494;www.light 0747-415569; baraka 223 3767;www.ras Smalland 145

TANZANIA TANZANIA -sands-hotel.com; dUS$40-70) cottages.com; s/d/tr/70/90/105; splurge. that are tothebeach, andworththe closer ard bungalowsplussomenice‘deluxe’ rooms budget places,andabitquieter, withstand- western endof Nungwi,after thecrushof side bar and restaurant. cheapest have hotwater –andagreat beach- have bathroom andfan,allbutthe abovetages onasmallcliff thebeach –all best, withcheery, good-value ensuite cot- at Nungwi,where disappears. itessentially tideyoustillhavehigh some beach –unlike shore are somereefs forsnorkelling, andat crush of activityandaccommodation.Off- and more spread out,withoutNungwi’s hours, thebeach isquieter thanatNungwi, moon parties,whenit’slouduntil thewee its full-moonparties.Apartfrom thefull- other thingsforitslaid-back atmosphere and long, widestretch of knownamong sand To thesouthwestof Nungwiis Kendwa, a KENDWA go viaprivate minivan( p143 ). Zanzi butmosttravellersbar Town(TSh700), Nungwiand Bus 116runsdailybetween Getting There &Away bungalows.com; sUS$50-90,dUS$60-130) Cottages. south of MnaraniBeach rooms inthemainlodge. It’sabout1km andlessexpensive ‘gardenview’ ing thesea, airy chalets nestledonahillsideoverlook- 146 US$35/55) .com; 2-3person bungalowUS$75, s/dUS$30/45,club Sands White Sleeping &Eating edge of centralNungwi. (US$10perdayextra).It’sonthe eastern use all withnets,smallporches andkitchenette bunga ation, withspotless,comfortable lows, good midrange choice forquietandrelax- guesthouse is set justbehind agrove is set guesthouse of palm than attheothercentralNungwihotels. and thebeach, withmore spaceandquiet storey cottages overlooking amanicured lawn eastern edge of Nungwi centre –hastwo- zanzinet.com; s/dUS$65/85; Smiles BeachHotel La Rosadei Venti Cottages Flame Tree Baobab BeachBungalows ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO Friendly and family-run, this small

( %

0747-480987; www.zanzibar-white ( %

( %

( 0747-411314; www.rosazanzibar % a 224 0472;smilesbeachhotel@ Oneof Kendwa’s 224 0100;www.flametree ) h Smiles–onthe

(www.baobabbeach Jun-Mar; Jun-Mar; Atthenorth- a ) A US$50/75) s/dUS$40/60,withseaview [email protected]; .com; bandasperpersonUS$12,s/dfromUS$30/45) board US$200-350; www.matemwebeach.com; s/dfromUS$65/100,stehalf side bar-restaurant. tothewater andabeach-pricier onescloser overlookingsmall cliff thebeach, plussome biggest full-moonparties. stone andthatch versions nearbyandthe somecooler wooden bungalowsonthesand, Kendwa classic,withbeach Matemwe BeachVillage Matemwe Sleeping &Eating Mnemba, which liesjustoffshore. fordivingandsnorkellingbest base around of onZanzibar. thefinestsand It’salsothe The long,idyllicbeach at Matemwe has some MATEMWE walk tothebeach. of Nungwi),fromwhere it’sabouta2km for Kendwa Rocks (afew kilometres south have the116 depending ondemand.FromStone Town, near AmaanBungalowsafew timesdaily Alternatively, inexpensive boatsgofrom care as there have somemuggings. been low tideinabout25to30minutes, buttake You canwalktoKendwa fromNungwiat Getting There &Away rooms inthemainfamilyhouse. simple butspaciousbungalows,orsmaller trees leadingdowntothebeach, withafew coast divingas well.In Stone Town,book it in Stone Town, you canget insome east- branch here, which ifyou dive means with Dive (see Centre Zanzibar p137 ) hasa storey ‘shamba suites’. OneOcean/The veryplunge pool,plus several nicetwo- also aplushhoneymoon suite withitsown cosy bungalowswith smallverandas. There’s anagreeablysetting, low-key ambience and ommended beachfront placehasaseaside views. There’s awaterside restaurant. back of therowinfront),butafew have sea to thebeach. Mostfacethegarden(or the rows of roomsonahillsideslopingdown con US$55; hotmail.com; dcottagesUS$35-45,beachfrontwithair- Amaan Kendwa BeachResort Amaan Kendwa Sunset Bungalows Kendwa Rocks Kendwa Huge andsprawling,withthree a ) Straightforward cottages ona Straightforward daladala

h ( %

Jun–mid Apr; ( 0747-415475; www.kendwarocks %

( dropyouatthesign 223 2350;sunsetbungalows@ % www.lonelyplanet.com 223 8374,0747-413656; bandas,

a ( % ) Thisrec- 0747 492552; simple A r perpersonwithshared bathroomUS$10) Jun–Easter; thatched) budget option, with Kiwengwa. place torelax. It’satthe farnorthernendof bience istranquil, andthelodge isanideal and agoodstretch of beach. Theoverall am- aroundagarden,aswellsuperbcuisine set plussomeequallynice‘lodge rooms’ the sea, overlookingthatch cottages onasmallcliff withtastefully decorated stone-and- choice, sea viewfromUS$110/205; US$40/70) s/dvillaUS$30/50,bungalow.matemwevillas.com; with transportarrangements. OneOcean,whichthrough can alsohelp www.lonelyplanet.com son withshared bathroomUS$15, dUS$50) ( and south. there are somequieter stretches tothenorth large, resort Italian-run hotels, although wide beach, much of which isoccupiedby Kiwengwa village isspread outalongafine, KIWENGWA about 2kmof Matemwe Bungalows. Village hotel ontheway,andstoppingwithin (two hours), passingtheMatemwe Beach Daladalas Getting There &Away including renovated. There’s arestaurant. with achoice of rooms; allhave recently been Village andMatemweBeach Bungalows, suites, includingoneforhoneymooners. rave reviews. There are alsomore luxurious pamperedteel, atmosphere andconsistently their ownveranda andhammock–agen- –allwith bungalows linedupalongthesea a relaxing, upmarket placewithspacious 1km northof Matemwe Village, is Beach from thebeach inMatemwe village. away very set simpleroomsinalocalhouse .matemwe.com; s/dfullboardUS$250/400; beach at lowtide). Alternatively, you can walk southof Kiwengwa centre (along the change. It’sonthebeach about20minutes en suite double, arestaurant andabook ex- % Reef View Reef Matemwe Bungalows Matemwe The cosyandintimate There places, are shoestring alsoseveral Matemwe Baharini Villas Baharini Matemwe 0747-414166; www.zanzibar.org/star; dgardenlodge/ Onthebeach Matemwe between s travel here dailyfromStoneTown bandas Mohammed’s Place

( ) % Matemwe Bungalows,about 0747-413294, 414030;banda perper- sharing facilities, plusan

s makuti ( %

( ) % Shooting StarLodge isanexcellent 027-250 2799;www

0747-417768; www ( % (palmleaf– , withthree istheonly 0747-431881; h mid- ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO

www.tamarind.nu; s/dUS$40/60) www.tamarind.nu; beachside bonfires. barwithevening simple and Pongwevillage. There are ahandfulof Hotelof justsouthof sand PongweBeach laid-back budget haunton alovely stretch atmosphere of thanthose itsneighbours. sive groundsandaquieter, more subdued of thenicerKiwengwa resorts, withexpan- ask the junction (just toMwembe Radu Stadium) to take bus501 (Amani but usually youneed times you canget thisat Darajani market, times daily.Some- Town and Uroaseveral Stone Town. can organise excursions toMichamvi or ambience. There’s arestaurant, andstaff views, asmallporch homy and apleasing, of aplacidpine-fringed beach, allwithsea value bungalows withinjustafew metres for families.Accommodationis in good- hotels ontheeastcoast,andanidealchoice ( p148 ), justtothesouth. of similarappealtothatatnearbyChwaka and seldom-visited stretch of beach that’s This centreless village liesonan attractive UROA as youcanget. tropicalparadise tothequintessential close backed vegetation, andisaboutas bydense of Kiwengwa, isdotted withpalmtrees and This quietarcof beach, about5kmsouth PONGWE zanzibar.com; dhalfboardUS$240-510; to betaken there. pay the117busdriver extra aboutTSh1000 PongweBeachHotel to StoneTown. fishingorexcursions fishing anddeep-sea withsuch yourself pursuitsamuse asgame panoramas atyourdoorstep, you can is good,andwhenyoutire of theturquoise spaciousandbreezy, thecuisine sea-facing, ofpalms onthebestsection beach. Allare bed),nestledamongthelarge Zanzibari cluding onehoneymoonbungalowwitha .santamaria-zanzibar.com; sUS$25-35,dUS$35-50) .com; s/dUS$70/110) The 214 Tamarind BeachHotel The attractive, intimate andunassuming Bluebay BeachResort Santa Maria CoralPark Santa Maria daladala makuti bandas daladala hasjust10bungalows(in- driver), where youcan pick

( % runs between Zanzibar Zanzibar runsbetween

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isoneof theoldest ( 224 0240/1;www.bluebay % 223 7154,0747-411191; 0747-432655; www ais

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147 TANZANIA TANZANIA US$35-50) .com; bandawithshared bathroomUS$20-25,bungalow on thebeach,plusarestaurant andadive centre. tastefullyfurnishedcottages view US$80/90)Comfortable, .pajedivecentre.com/arabiannights; s/dUS$70/80,withsea Japanese cuisineavailable withadvanceorder. edgeofPaje, withsushiandother beach atthenorthern placehidden amongthepalmson 35) Alow-key s/dfromUS$25/ .geocities.jp/paradisebeachbungalows/; in agroup. perpersonto KizimkaziforaboutTSh15,000 Many hotels inPaje organise dolphintrips phere, it’squieter though thaninNungwi. places here, andsomewhatof apartyatmos- Town.There’s acluster offrom Zanzibar juu andsouthtoJambiani joinswith theroad Tarmac where roadnorthtoBwe- thecoastal Paje isawide, white beach attheendof the PAJE eastcoast. others onZanzibar’s est beach isbelowaverage compared with charm. hasasleepy Themod- consequence ceive days, andasa toomanyvisitors these re- Town,doesn’t dueeastofBay, Zanzibar Chwaka, asmallfishingvillage onChwaka CHWAKA Stone Townisabout4pm. Uroa. Thelastdeparture fromUroabackto sometimes continuesnorthwardsasfar up the214.Alternatively, bus206(Chwaka) 148 Paje by Night GuestHouse Kitete Paradise BeachBungalows the beach. on .com; s/dfrom US$25/40)Asmallguesthouse right standard s/dUS$35/40, large dwithhot water US$60, US$45/60, withair-conUS$55/72; Arabian NightsGuesthouse Party. CoastBeach East an all-night currentlybar, andSaturdayevenings feature beds.There’s awell-stockedwith Zanzibari bandas of beach. insimple You can sleep pineson anicesection the palmsandcoastal main attractionsatthisplacenestled amid Town. Zanzibar viewsandbalconies. with sea the beach, andnicertwo-storey cottages onasmallhillside infrom bungalows set Kinazi Upepo Kinazi BayResort Chwaka Other recommendations: timesdailyto/from Bus 206runsseveral ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO onlowstilts,orinlarge bungalows Goodvibesandgoodvalueare the ( %

( 0747-460710; www.pajebynight.net; % ( % 0748-655038; www.kinaziupepo

224 0226;www.kitetebeach ( % ( ( % % as 224 0289;s/dwithfan 223 1387;www 224 0190/1;www ) hassimple makuti place.net; s/dfromUS$25/40) sea viewUS$80/90; s/drUS$65/75, s/dbungalowwith .sunrise-zanzibar.com; Sunrise Hotel & Restaurant Hotel Sunrise thesign. you see trackuntil just keep headingupthesandy banda inaseaside dinners (forguests only)served zibari owner,cooks upgreat breakfasts and some withprivate bathroom.Eddy,theZan- are afew more house, roomsinaseparate palms. Downstairs isatidysingle,andthere andthe tree double,opentothesea house hasawonderfulupstairs Robinson House palms directly onthebeach. Thetwo-storey pealingly designedroomsnestled amid the style getaway, ithasasmallcollectionof ap- Getting There &Away bungalows’ andarestaurant withapizzaoven. Mustapha’s Nest Mustapha’s Sleeping &Eating listen tothebreezes rustlingthepalmtrees. and to dootherthanwanderalongthesand mellow atmosphere andnothingmuch more much lesscrowdedthanNungwi,witha It’s very spread out,quieter thanPaje, and north of Paje onalong,palm-shadedbeach. The large village of Bwejuu liesabout3km BWEJUU about 3pm. with thelastdeparture fromPaje leaving at and StoneTownenroute to/fromBwejuu, Paje timesdailybetween Bus 324runsseveral setinfromthebeach, a courtyard place knownforitsbar,withstraightforwardroomsaround 2-/4-person ‘junglebungalow’US$70/100)Afairlyraucous just acrosstheroadfrombeach. diversions. It’ssouthof Bwejuuvillage, and like bike hire, drumminglessonsandother and familyare helpfulinsortingoutthings Meals are taken family style,andMustapha bathroom andallwiththeirowntheme. decorated rooms,somewiththeirown mosphere andavarietyof simple,creatively at- welcoming placehasalaid-back Rasta with private bathroomUS$20-25) with private /mustaphas/; rperpersonwithshared bathroomUS$10-15, are worth the extra money, andare muchnicer thanthe theextra are worth a highly regarded restaurant. Thebeach-facing bungalows rooms andbungalows setarounda smallgardenarea, and Other recommendations: Robinson’s Place . It’satthenorthern endof Bwejuu;

s ( %

( ) The Belgian-run Sunrise has ) TheBelgian-run Sunrise % 224 0069;www.fatflatfish.co.uk 0747-413479; www.robinsons ARobinsonCrusoe– www.lonelyplanet.com ( % makuti Thischilled-out, 224 0170;www -roofed ‘jungle s -zanzibar.com; s/d half-boardfromUS$155/250; roomshavetheirownbalcony. upper-level bungalows. Somehaveabathroom,andthe two-storey butnice bathroomfromUS$40)Pricey with private -bungalows.com; rwithshared bathroomfromUS$30, Getting There &Away thewater.beachside barandaraisedrestaurant overlooking OK bungalows(theonesclosesttothewaterare better),a US$45/50) bathroom s/d withshared bathroom US$20/30,with private bathroom US$8/16) local fare. where youcanarrange grilledfishorother In Michamvi, there are afew simple at anytimeof return). day(aboutTSh15,000 oryoucanarrange(TSh1000), tohire one departing Michamvi intheearlymorning opposite Karafuu Hotel) toChwaka,usually (on thenorthwestern sideof thepeninsula Local boatscrossfromMichamvi village past Bwejuu,there’s nopublictransport. few upmarket retreats theonlyoptions.Once budget accommodationdisappears, witha about4kmnorthof Bwejuu,Beginning MICHAMVI PENINSULA here aswell. Bwejuu village, andprivate minivanscome StoneTownand dailybetween Bus 324goes Palm Twisted Bwejuu Evergreen of Bwejuuvillage. It’sonthebeachabout3kmnorth rooms, whichare dark. www.lonelyplanet.com Oasis BeachInn Sleeping &Eating seas. at turquoise thanspendafewworse dayshere gazingout budget accommodation,andyou could do down thecoast.There’s of agoodselection Jambiani stretches kilometres several Beach JAMBIANI at someof the othereast-coastplaces. atmospherethe hectic,homogenised found amenities andactivities,aminimum of rooms withshared bathroom. the beachside has simple butdecent Oasis of the beach. and a convenient at thenorthern end setting spotless rooms, abreezy terrace restaurant, Breezes BeachClub Breezes Blue Oyster Hotel Blue Oyster ) isaplushresort, withafull range of This German-run place has pleasant, placehas pleasant, ThisGerman-run ( %

( Oneof thecheapest places, % 0747-438121; s/dfromUS$15/25) ( % 224 0259;dUS$25,s/d with shared

(

% ( % 224 0273;www.evergree 224 0163;www.zanzibar.de; 0747-440883; www.breezes bandas ai ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO

osyhocm sd US$15/30) s/d [email protected]; .mountzion-zanzibar.com; s/d/trUS$25/50/65) Jambiani, nearMtZionLongBeach. for children. It’satthefarnorthernendof large toaccommodate extra beds enough beds, and most porches andZanzibari decorated cottages, allwithshady attached with nicely andItaly fusion of Zanzibar minifridge. There’s restaurant. aseaside ani. Mosthave bathroomandsome have a Simple roomsatthesouthernend of Jambi- the sea, andthere’sthe sea, arestaurant. overlookingaround agardenontinycliff Inn.Roomsareani justafter Kimte Beach side placeisatthesouthernendof Jambi- majiwe.net; s/dUS$100/140; bathroom US$30) dm US$10,dwithshared bathroomUS$25,withprivate and evening bonfires.and evening good vibe,andabeachside barwithmusic about halfaminute’s walkfromthebeach, a place hasroomsonthelandsideof theroad, biani, thisfriendlyandlaid-back Rasta-run person forhire of poor-quality snorkelling per people,plus TSh2500 with uptoeight Bungalows ( p150 perboat ) forTSh40,000 Kizidi perperson,from TSh15,000 asdoes tels atPaje and Jambiani alsoorganise tours depending ongroup size. Someof theho- Stone Townfrom aboutUS$20perperson, touroperatorscan beorganised through in phins thatfavour thenearbywaters. Trips the south.It’sknown mainlyforthedol- to thenorthand KizimkaziMkungunito adjoining settlements: Kizimkazi Dimbani This smallvillage actuallyconsistsof two KIZIMKAZI Stone Town(1½hours). Jambiani isreached bybus309from Beach Getting There &Away of Jambiani village. food.It’sabout1.5kmnorth wood, andtasty plusabarbuiltaroundpolished drift- sand, no-frills They alsohave acoupleof lessexpensive large, lushgardensjustupfrom thebeach. around less stone-and-thatch bungalowsset placewithnicelydecorated, spot- Rasta-run Shehe Bungalows Mt ZionLongBeach Kimte BeachInn Kimte Gomani Bungalows Hakuna Majiwe Hakuna makuti bandas Atthesouthernendof Jam-

( ( ( % %

% (

% ( % ais 224 0149;rperpersonUS$15) 0747-454505; www.hakuna 224 0212; www.kimte.com; 224 0212;www.kimte.com; 0747-439001, 439034;www This spiffy beach- Thisspiffy 224 0154;gomanibunga directly onthe ) Apleasing Another 149

TANZANIA TANZANIA normally included intheprice. theJozanientryfee isn’t at Jozani,although Town. Many Kizimkazidolphintours stop or withanorganised tourfromZanzibar reached viabus9 or10,viachartered taxi bar Townoff theroadtoPaje. Itcanbe threatened population. it couldspread, endangering thealready the monkeys were tocatch ahumanillness, your safety andthe safety of theanimals.If recommend than3m–bothfor nocloser –parkstaff nottogetimportant tooclose in theearlymorningandlate It’s evening. colobus monkey. particular foritspopulationsof therare red andisknownin forest leftonZanzibar, Cool andlush Forest Jozani and Mkungunitotheleft. come toanotherfork;Dimbaniistheright 5km). As youapproach Kizimkazi,you’ll heading towardsKizimkazi,orwalk(about togetneed outandwaitforanothervehicle duchi) asfarKufilejunction,where you’ll (Kizimkazi) direct, ortake 310(Makun- To get here fromStoneTown,take bus326 Getting There &Away to get inandoutof theboatstosnorkel). stronger (andifit’stoowindy,difficult windsmaybe noon isalsogood,although calmer andthesuniscooler. after- Late time isearlymorningwhenthewater is recommended. Ifyoudogoout,thebest many of thetourboats,andtheycan’tbe by used tactics due tothehunt-and-chase ful, thetours are often quite unpleasant, equipment. Whilethedolphinsare beauti- 150 sive assortment of corals, fish andmangrove Ukuu tothe east,is hometo animpres- villages of Fumba tothewest and Unguja Tranquil Menai fringed bythesleepy Bay, Bay&Unguja Ukuu Menai restaurant. and twinordoublebeds.There’s alarge overlooking thewater, withnet,hotwater Accommodation isinno-frills cottages ern endof thebeach inKizimkaziDimbani. h s/d/tr US$30/40/50) Jozani isabout35kmsoutheastof Zanzi- thered colobusareThe besttimestosee Kizidi Restaurant &Bungalows Restaurant Kizidi 7.30am-5.30pm) ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••AroundZanzibar ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO isalarge placeonthenorth- isthelargest area of mature Jozani Forest Jozani

(adult/child US$8/4;

( % 223 0081; www.menaibaybungalows.com; s/dUS$30/50) Also knownasPrison Island, CHANGUU Islands Offshore beachlodge.co.tz; s/d US$177/284) tion Area protected aspartof the breeding area.islets, andasea-turtle It’s forests, and deserted someidyllicsandbanks sion US$5,payableinUS$ only) and arestaurant. just infromthebeach, anicestretch of sand, ant cottages scattered aroundleafygrounds to atleastthe8thcentury. dating earliestsettlement, site of Zanzibar’s dolphins.UngujaUkuuwasthe times tosee offshore,islets andsandbanks andsome- get away, plus thechance aroundthe tosail sion, although it’s abit overrated.sion, although Nearby Today theisland ispushed as adayexcur- slaves and later asaquarantine station. ‘recalcitrant’ todetain It wasoriginally used Town. easy boat ridenorthwestof Zanzibar snorkelling onadhow. orsailing a placidbeach andthechance for diving, cottages well-spacednearthe water, plus Fumba BeachLodge BayBeachBungalows Menai not theotherwayaround... is theywhochoosetointeract withpeople, their whereabouts cannotbepredicted. It member thatthedolphinsare wildand water quietlyandwithoutsplashing. Re- decide toswimwiththem,getintothe tion, especiallywhentheyare resting. Ifyou range, besatisfiedwithpassive observa- chase thedolphinsorapproachatclose thanforcingtheboatoperatorto Rather encourage themtoapproachyourboat. guaranteed. Shoutingandwavingwon’t time andpatience,sightingscan’tbe dolphins intheirnaturalenvironsrequires Town: aswithotheranimals,viewingthe on thewallofWWFofficeinZanzibar watch thedolphins,heedadviceposted several boatsoftourists. Ifyouwantto beleaguered dolphinsbeingchasedby and it’snotuncommontoseeagroupof things have gotten outofhandthesedays, dolphins, forKizimkazi’s Unfortunately WATCHING THEDOLPHINS

(admission US$3)

( % , andoffers arelaxing liesabout5kmand an www.lonelyplanet.com 0747-860504; info@fumba Menai BayConserva- Menai hasmore nice

( Changuu % 0747-413915; haspleas-

(admis- fers fromStoneTown. andprovidesgalows alongthesand, trans- s/d fullboardUS$245/300; Camping isn’t permitted. Camping Mkokotoni andStone Town. daily between request amodest fee. There’s onebus atleast inNungwi, whowillprobably lage chief) tion inMkokotoni, orfrom the to get permission first fromthepolicesta- tling fishmarket. visiting, it’sbest Before andwhich isknownforitsbus- Zanzibar, village, which liesjustacross thechannel on including lunch. usually at ChanguufromaboutTSh15,000, withastopenroute run daytripstoBawi about 40minutes. Various touroperators Hotel charge thetriptakes fromTSh15,000; boats fromthebeach nearTembo House snorkelling equipmentwithyou.Fishing tobringfood,drinksand so you’llneed snorkelling. There’s however, nothingelse, of offers Changuu, abeautifulbeach and kilometresTown andseveral southwest Tiny about7kmwestofBawi, Zanzibar BAWI for areturn daytrip. Tembo Hotel foraboutTSh15,000 House hire afishingboatfromthebeach near range anexcursion. Alternatively, youcan tortoises. known foritslarge familyof imported giant yourowngear.you’ll need Changuuisalso is areef offering somenovice snorkelling; www.lonelyplanet.com out the day between Tumbatuand out thedaybetween boat). Alternatively, through- localboatssail (fromUS$35toUS$50per aboat ganise Nungwi, where thehotels canhelpyouor- easily visited asadaytripfromKendwa or no accommodation,buttheisland canbe populated bytheTumbatupeople. There’s northwestern coastandis Zanzibar’s off The large islandof Tumbatu is situated TUMBATU agreeable getaway fromStone Town. waters,surrounded bycrystal and makes an Town. It’s is about4kmnorthof Zanzibar and tombsof colonial-eraBritishseamen) as Grave Island,thankstoitssmallcemetery This tiny,privately ownedisland(alsoknown CHAPWANI Zanzibar Towntouroperators canar-Zanzibar Chapwani IslandLodge h

Jun-Mar) (www.chapwaniisland.com; hascosybun- shehe Mkokotoni (vil-

person, includingtransfers and food. advance arrangement only)costUS$70per bookings are Dayvisits(alsoby essential. and isoften rented outinitsentirety. seldom disappointed. seldom venture across thechannel fora visit are bour to the south.Yet tourists who those visible andmore politically powerfulneigh- overshadowed itslarger, more byZanzibar, visited andlong go’s ‘other’island, seldom lies hilly,verdant Pemba – the archipela- darkwatersdeep, of the Pemba channel About acrossthe 50km northof Zanzibar % PEMBA ( nonprofit nature reserve. run as IslandCoralPark,Chumbe aprivate, educationprograms.It’snow environmental tive centred aroundanecolodge andlocal the site of animpressive ecotourisminitia- claim, includingfromtheUnited Nations,as tuary, theislandhasgainedwidespread ac- first marinesanc- was gazetted asZanzibar’s ing withfishlife. Since1994,whenthereef topristineconditionandabound- is inclose water coralreef alongitswestern shore that Town,hasanexceptionalshallow- Zanzibar This uninhabited island,12kmsouthof CHUMBE lots of colourful smallerspecies. reeftuna, barracuda,morayeels, sharksand sites, with ahuge arrayof fish,including bestdivingandsnorkellingof Zanzibar’s coral reef canbevisited byanyone. It’sone isprivately owned,thesurrounding itself have themoneytoenjoyit.Whileisland who forthose the ultimate tropicalparadise Tiny Mnemba, justnortheast of Matemwe, is MNEMBA rain is hilly,fertile and heavily vegetated. US$230/400) hawksbill turtles. 370 speciesof fish,groupsof dolphins,and the island’ssurroundingwaters hostabout the seven wonderfullyrustic the seven overnight staying trip, although inoneof Mar) Mar) perpersonall-inclusivefromUS$585; .ccafrica.com; % Unlike flat, sandy Zanzibar, Pemba’sUnlike Zanzibar, flat,sandy ter- In additiontonearly200speciesof coral, The exclusive Chumbe Islandcanbevisited asaday 024 is aplaygroundfortherich andfamous, 223 1040;www.chumbeisland.com;s/dall-inclusive ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••PembaZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO is highly recommended. ishighly Advance Mnemba IslandLodge eco-bungalows h

(www 151 Jun-

TANZANIA TANZANIA 1964, President Karume Pemba closed to became aBritishprotectorate. Zanzibar, until 1822. In1890Pemba, together with gained theupper handandgovernedbasa, rui, arivalgroup of inMom- Omanisbased theMaz- long,however, Before Portuguese. the islandanddriven awaytheremaining familyofsaidi OmaniArabshad taken over Bythe lateto Mombasa. 17thcenturytheBu- ing tributes. As aresult, manyPembans fled by ravaginginhabitants townsanddemand- to subjugateearly 16thcenturyandsought its date fromatleastthe9thor10thcentury. Shirazi presence onPemba to isbelieved years thousand ago.as earlyseveral The they migrated fromthemainland,perhaps It’slikelyabout itsoriginalinhabitants. that at anearlierdate, little isknown although tohave zibar andisbelieved settled been Pemba isgeologically much olderthanZan- History there’s littletransportoffmainroutes. travelling aroundindependentlyistime,as Pemba’s charm. Themainrequirement for whichor lesstoyourself, isabigpartof covered’ andyou’llstillhave thingsmore ing. Much of the island isrelatively ‘undis- thisisslowlychang-fairly basic,although and infrastructure isforthemost part surrounding waters offer rewarding diving. andsomeidyllicoffshoresand islets,andthe thereHowever, are afew goodstretches of the coast,Pemba isnotabeach destination. skills of thetrade. cures the Africaseeking ortolearn in East still make theirwayhere fromelsewhere voodoo andtraditionalhealers, andpeople dominance. economic foundationforthearchipelago’s thatprovidedtions andagriculturalbase, the it wasPemba, withitsextensive clove planta- zibar heldswayover Africancoast, theEast much of of theperiodwhensultans Zan- Khuthera the Arabtraders referred itwaseven toas farm plotscovers thehillsides. Inthedaysof coves,sand whileinland,apatchwork of neat ing onlyoccasionallyontostunningwhite- mangroveDense swampslineitscoast,open- 152 Following the in Following the Zanzibar attacked PembaThe Portuguese in the Tourism onPemba isstillinitsinfancy, Thanks tothemangroves liningmuch of Pemba longrenowned hasalsobeen forits ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Pemba ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO or‘theGreen Island’.Throughout al Pemba back tonormal. then, mosthave returned, anddaily life is theisland (see people to flee p108 ). Since dozendeathsleast several andcausing many tions, tensions againpeaked, resulting inat 2001, inthewake of theOctober2000elec- infrastructure badlyneglected. InJanuary as 95%insomeareas andother androads considering that illiteracy rates are ashigh and frustrated. Thiswas hardlysurprising, Pembans feeling increasingly marginalised and relations deteriorated thereafter, with sions peaked during the1995elections, the situationcontinuedtobestrained. Ten- untilthe1980s,although mained closed antigovernment Theislandre- sentiment. foreigners strong tocontain inaneffort (50km) To Zanzibar PEMBA Matumbini

Makubwa P Ras Mkumbuu Matumbi e m b

Makongwe a C h a n Watoro Beach Kokota n e

Uvinje l Panga ya Misali Njao Gap Kigomasha Fundo Peninsula Tondooni Chake Njao Panza Changaweni Verani Bay Mkoani Mtambwe Wambaa Funzi Mkuu Ras Kigomasha Ngwachani Jombe Kinyasini 12miles 20km 0 0 Wete Vumawimbi Chake Wesha Forest Kengeja Ngezi Konde Beach Mtambile Kiweni Daya Nyala Gombani Limani Ziwani www.lonelyplanet.com Tumbe Chwaka Mzambarauni Ruins Kiwani Kendwa Maputo Piki Hamisi & Usubi Ole Chwaka I NDA Mtangani O CEAN Pujini Likoni Pujini Ruins Msitu Mkuu Karume Ras Kiuyu Airport Vitongoji Kangagni Kojani Forest Mbuyuni Kiuyu Beach (skewered meat),grilled best inChake Chake –which sell kets –foundinall themajor towns,but ing venues are Pemba’s lively mar- night themain eat- from hotels andguesthouses, towns exceptforafew touristresorts. Away There’s noaccommodationoutsidemain Information down inatwo-storey white building. and take thefirst thebureau right; is100m Head northfromthetowncentre for1km just outsideChake Chake inMachomane. from theBureau &Environment of Lands &Environmentisavailable sion forLands A map(1:100,000)putoutbytheCommis- MAPS most of theferries arrive. the north,andMkoaniinsouth,where The onlyothertownsof anysizeare Wete to the western coast,isPemba’s maintown. Chake Chake, inthecentre of theislandon Orientation www.lonelyplanet.com Fundu Lagoon best suited for experienceddivers. challenging, most divingaround Pemba is As currents are often strong,and conditions as well can arrange these, option, andmost of thefollowing operators live-aboard arrangements are anappealing from maintowns tomostof the dive sites, Pemba’s mainactivity.Given the distances Other thanexploring theisland,divingis DIVING Activities Lagoon ( p154 ), andmainly forhotel guests. ‘Fully conditions; based atFundu catered’ diving infive-star cept asnoted. diving andaccommodationlisted here ex- US dollars. topay cashforall You’llneed so comeprepared cash andbringenough heremoney, andeven facilitiesare limited, to themainlandorNairobi. inMkoani,butit’sbetterpital toget yourself midday onFriday. prayers fromabout4pmor4.30pm, andat 4pm, andalmosteverywhere shutsdownfor on theisland. and localbrew there’s littlealcohol available and otherdelicacies.Otherthanhotel bars Chake Chake istheonlyplacetochange There government isaChinese-run hos- operate from8amtoMost businesses ( % 223 2926;www.fundulagoon.com) pweza sailing charters (octopus) mishikaki .

moored in Njao Gap, northwest ofWete. northwest moored inNjaoGap, booking office in Chake Chake (Map (Map Chake officeinChake booking p155 ). SY Jambo; arrangementsontheschooner the island,andlive-aboard .mantareeflodge.com) Divingatarangeofsitesaround catamaran Zanzibar,togetherwithitssistership,the and northern arrangementsaroundPemba offers sailingandlive-aboard the island. ploring thesouthern andcentralpartsof it, anditmakes forex- areasonable base alongway toredeeming goes guesthouse itsgoodbudgetand boringtown. However, andremainsat development avery small allattemptsani hasmanaged off to fight itisPemba’sAlthough major port, Mko- Mkoani are paved. various stages of repair; routes nosecondary MkoaniandWetebetween are Tarmac in arranged inChake Chake. The mainroads pick-up trucksthatyoucancharter –best bar orthemainland,butthere are plentyof are noregular asthere taxis are onZanzi- an additionalfee withthebusdriver. There walk, rely onsporadicpick-ups,ornegotiate inter fromwheresection, you’lleitherhave to routes, take oneof tothenearest thebuses smaller ones.Toreach these destinationsoff connects thethree maintownsand several easy butslow.Aploddinglocalbusnetwork Chake. OnceonPemba, getting aroundis rive attheisland’sonlyairportnearChake from themainlandtoWete. ar- Allflights there are ferry alsoweekly connections Mkoani isPemba’s mainferry port,and &Around There Getting Wimbi Nyota Pemba Afloat Lodge Reef Manta only lightly travelled.only lightly areDistances relatively are shortandroads of bicyclesavailable thesingle-speed locally. and spares, unlessyou’re content withone bike tobringyourown(mountain) need way toget you’ll aroundtheisland,although emergencies. road, andis bestavoided except in dire The government ison themain hospital INFORMATION outfit basedaboardtheyachts Pemba issmall,and cyclingisanexcellent ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••PembaZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO based at Manta Reef Lodge( Reef basedatManta p157 ). There’s a Julia (www.zanzibarsail.com) The (www.zanzibarsail.com) . (www.pembaisland.com)Anexcellent ( % 0747-424637, 423930;www Karibu and Sitra, Wimbi Nyota whichare

153 TANZANIA TANZANIA with aflag. from theportinasmallbrownbuilding get in.It’s500mupthemainroad stamped and togotheimmigrationoffice need you’ll from anywhere otherthanZanzibar, ifyou’reboat arrivals.Otherwise, coming 4pm. The zibar at3pm,andthentoDaresSalaam at departs Mkoaniat12.30pm,reaching Zan- by 10am.Intheotherdirection, theboat ing DaresSalaamat7.30amand Zanzibar depart- Salaam andMkoaniviaZanzibar, Saturday inbothdirections Dares between intheoryonMonday,Thursdaysails and but it’s more than theother comfortable ‘1st class’ couches; there’s noextra charge, to get to theportearlyto get oneof their run, try at about 6am. Ifyoutake thenight 10pm, reaching Pemba thenext morning hours). are Departures at from Zanzibar 4pm and5pm(US$25,sixtoseven between Thursday andSaturday, reaching Zanzibar ani, departingMkoani at10amTuesday, and Mko- Zanzibar between times weekly ally more reliable bar/Dar esSalaam,includingport tax. Pembaeconomy classbetween andZanzi- issporadic.Thefare isUS$45/55in service food in the evenings bytheport. food intheevenings thereto findmeals,although isdecentstreet has Mkoani’sbestcuisine,itcanbedifficult to nearbybeaches. north of includeexcursions Mkoani.Rates boatmooredfortable off thecoastof Pemba, full boardUS$88/176) The fitful Boat THERE&AWAYGETTING Jondeni GuestHouse SLEEPING &EATING 154 with private bathroomUS$25/30) with private mail.com; dmUS$10,s/dwithshared bathroomUS$15/20,s/d walk about800muptothetopof thehill. here, head leftwhenexitingtheport,and excursions elsewhere ontheisland.Toget tion onPemba, andcanhelpyouarrange have lotsof Staff meals (TSh6000). informa- withclean,no-frillshouse, roomsandgood the momentisthisgoodbackpackers’ guest- The immigration officer usually meets all usuallymeets The immigrationofficer The much less comfortable andmargin-The much lesscomfortable Apart from Jondeni Guest House, which Apart fromJondeniGuestHouse, Floating Beach Resort Floating BeachResort ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Pemba ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO MS Sepideh Sepideh Fifteenroomsonacom- isgoodwhenitruns,but

Serengeti (

% ( % (www.floatingbeach.com; s/d 245 6042;jondeniguest@hot 0741-414343, 0747-420243) Theonlychoice at also sails three alsosails

tickets and island excursions;atthe mainjunction. tickets ( Pemba Island Reasonable Tours& Safaris Pemba Island Reasonable &Tours Travel Partnership Centre Adult Computer INFORMATION Mkumbuu. some ruinsatnearby Ras and thehospital, an 18th-centuryfort near dence of itspastotherthantheruinsof centuries, there islittlearchitectural evi- occupiedfor ithasbeen town. Although looking Chake Chake isPemba’s Bay, main Lively Chake Chake, onaridge set over- Chake Chake luxuriate at The mainreason tocome Wambaa isto Wambaa over toKiweni(aboutTSh2000). metres tothewater andthentake aboat from where you’llhave towalkafew kilo- youcanfindpick-ups toKengeja,Mtambile, Chake junction.From roadtoMtambile butafive-star resortstay, isplanned. colonies.There’ssome sea-turtle nowhere to demic birdspecies,andanestinggroundfor coast. It’shometofive of Pemba’s sixen- Pemba’sland thatliesjustoff southeastern Kiweni (Shamiani onsomemaps)isanis- Kiweni Chake Chake. tochangeFor Wete, you’llneed vehicles in themain road. port, upthehillandjustoff isabout200m eastofThe busstation the from Chake Chake two hours). (TSh700, thedayto/ Bus No303runsthroughout Bus inWete.House in Chake Chake, andwithSharouk Guest also arrange tickets travel through agencies ing offices attheportinMkoani. Youcan statement. Bothboatshave theirmainbook- isanover- ‘comfortable’ although seating, h .fundulagoon.com; s/dfullboardfromUS$475/670; also place/receive internationalcalls here. Mkoani–Wete road,opposite thetelecombuilding;youcan plus perminuteTSh300; team. sort, with % Take anybusalongtheMkoani–Chake mid-Jun–mid-Apr) 0747-435266) Next door,and more of thesame. 0747-435266) Next all theusualamenitiesplusadive Fundu Lagoon , Pemba’s onlyfive-star re- h (connection fee TSh1000, (connection 8am-8pm) Onthemain ( www.lonelyplanet.com %

( 245 2278)Ferry % 223 2926;www

Cae Chake Chake i .com; dm/d US$23/68, rwith shared bathroom US$53-82; www.lonelyplanet.com Pemba Island Hotel Pemba IslandHotel SLEEPING &EATING tillery town pastthesleepy An easybike rideaway,about6kmeastof SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Corporation Zanzibar Tourist People’s BankofZanzibar Vitongoji. are some tiny,baobab-dotted the buildingwithflag. onthe2ndfloorof information. It’satthemainjunction, cheques toadailylimitofUS$200.Atthemain junction. also run a cheaper annexnearby. 100m downhill fromthe bank. Theowners about longer It’s ontheWesharoad, stays. race restaurant anda10%pricediscount for minifridge and hotwater, arooftop ter-TV, budget value,with smallroomswithnets, a [email protected]; s/d/twUS$20/35/50; Fairgrounds 1 3 2 (15km) Ras Mkumbuu To Wesha(7km); Chake CHAKE Old Mission Lodge Old Mission Channel ) ) Jetty This lodge is inarestored Quaker mis- New andspotless, thishotel isgood

INFORMATION Tours&Safaris...... (see3) Pemba IslandReasonable Partnership Travel&Tours...... Adult ComputerCentre...... fie...... B3 Office...... Manta ReefLodgeBooking (admission TSh1500; AC 7

( % 13 ( %

12 h 245 2786;www.swahilidivers Pemba EssentialOilDis- Changescashandtravellers 5 6 245 2215,0747-435266; 4 3 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) 10 Come here for tourist Comehere fortourist 9 3 2 1 1 2 B3 B2 8 14 beaches SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES epesBn fZnia...... B2 People's BankofZanzibar...... Ruins ofOldFort...... Market...... Zanzibar TouristCorporation...... B 11 Pujini Ruins(10km);Mkoani(30km) near To KarumeAirport(6km); Main Post Office , other local delicaciesatrock-bottom prices. and after Pemba yogurt. Island Hotel, sells a fish and other standard fare.fish andotherstandard This homylocalhaunt offers goodriceand pweza the main junction,where youcan get grilled US$6 anddinnerforUS$12. credit cardsplus10%.Lunch isavailable for of thebank.Notravellers cheques accepted; road inthetowncentre, about200mnorth nondivers here stay aswell.It’son themain ings. It’sprimarilyadive butplentyof base, floors, tinyshared ceil- bathroomsandhigh priced roomscomplete withcreaky wooden with spacious,rusticandsomewhat over- inthecentresion house of Chake Chake, Meals canbearranged. (TSh4000) wake-up callfromthemosquenext door. Included inthe price isanearlymorning Lodge, withclean,no-frills roomswithnets. ment onthemainroadnorthof OldMission Maziwa Halisi, downhill from thebank There’s alsoalively market night around Le Tavern Afay Restaurant Afay ) Areliable establish- tatty butslightly ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••PembaZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO 7 6 5 4 M achomne (octopus), A3 B3 B2

( % 245 2660;s/dwithair-conUS$25/30;

400m 0.2miles 0 0 To Wete TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING ZanAir...... Transport toWesha...... (see4) Transport Stand...... MV SepidehBookingOffice...... (see3) Coastal Aviation...... (see2) A2 Maziwa Halisi...... Afay Restaurant...... Pemba IslandHotel...... Old MissionLodge...... Le Tavern...... maandazi (meals TSh2000; (25km) (doughnuts) and (doughnuts)

h To BureauofLands& Environment (500m); D Pemba EssentialOil lunch &dinner) Distillery (700m); Vitongoji (6km) 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 B3 A3 B3 B2 B2 B2 155

TANZANIA TANZANIA Beach andNgezi. Beach masha, including stopsatVumawimbi Chake Kigo- turn between Chake andRas Chake andWete; andUS$25toUS$30 re- Chake; Chake US$10one waybetween MkoaniandChakeprices: US$15between either of thetravel agencies. Somesample Chake theOldMissionLodge through or andmotorbikesCars canbehired inChake Car &Motorcycle to Chake(TSh5000 Chake centre). least onevehicle incomingflights meets transport toandfromtheairport, butat is Pemba’s onlyairfield. There’s nopublic Karume Airport, about6kmeastof town, To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING when buyingyourboatticket. departure time. Bookaplaceinadvance two hours before the front of Partnership Travel &Tours about departures andarrivals.Itdepartsfrom in connectingwith Mkoani (TSh1000) There’s ashuttlebusfromChake Chake to Weteviathe‘new’(eastern)road Weteviathe‘old’road 335 Konde 334 306 303 Mkoani Destination Route prices onallaveraging TSh700): Main routes includethefollowing (with Bus Both Air THERE&AWAYGETTING 156 and to thesoutheast are some mangroves. fine, white and asmallvisitor centre, sands northeast of theisland is waterstal andstunningcoral reefs. Onthe from Chake Chake, surrounded bycrys- This little patch of lies offshore paradise Misali near thepostoffice, and between Pembabetween andTanga (US$55). daily alsogoes Salaam (US$85).Coastal (US$70), withconnectionsontoDares Chake Town between Chake andZanzibar 2162, 0747-418343) ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ••Pemba ZANZIBARARCHIPELAGO ZanAir

( % , opposite ZanAir, flydaily , opposite ZanAir, 245 2990) Sepideh Coastal Aviation , onthemainroad Mbuyuni Beach ’s scheduled Sepideh

( % , with 245

Conservation Area Conservation reef were gazetted asthe bathroom US$10/20, with private bathroom US$20/40) bathroom US$10/20, withprivate Sharouk Guest House SLEEPING &EATING Divers also helpwithbooking ferry tickets. where isSharouk which can GuestHouse, Ngezi forest andelse- Vumawimbi Beach, The bestplacefor arrangingexcursions to INFORMATION with hills,villages andlotsof bananatrees. Chake Chake toWete viaZiwaniispretty, plore northernPemba. The roadleadingfrom makes fromwhich anagreeable toex- base The lively port-andmarket-town of Wete Wete Chake Chake return. costsTSh10,000 small villages andmangroves. hire Car from lowing theroadsoutheastpastfarm plots, than amoundof earthinmanyplaces. palace–nowlittlemore rounding Rahman’s framed bywhatwere oncetheramparts sur- he meted out.Themainarea of interest is with crueltyduetotheharsh punishments ForPembans,guese. hisnameissynonymous 15th century,priortothearrivalof thePortu- bin Abdul whoruledPemba Rahman, inthe of theinfamousMohammedIt wastheseat ruins of atowndatingfromthe14thcentury. Pujini are theovergrown andatmospheric About 10kmsoutheastof Chake Chake at Ruins Pujini TSh45,000 per personTSh45,000 return. ortravelguesthouses agencies fromabout you canarrange excursions Misali through withyou.Alternatively, you’llneed ever food ordrinkontheisland,sobringwhat- perpersonTSh40,000 return). There’s no owners totake you over (about toMisali in Wesha,youcannegotiate withlocal boat Once ing. HiringacarcostsaboutTSh6000. the People’s inthemorn- of Bank Zanzibar which departsChake Chake frominfrontof northwest of Chake Chake, viabus305, isnotpermitted. Camping underwater andterrestrial nature trails. for diving; see for diving; see p137 . In 1998theislandandsurroundingcoral The bestwaytoget here isbybicycle,fol- To get totheisland,headfirst toWesha,

( % 0747-417333)

(adults/students US$5/3)

( has a base justopposite has abase % www.lonelyplanet.com 245 4386; s/dwith shared Misali Island Marine Island Marine Misali Bahari Bahari , with This the Wete postoffice,aboutthree hours before Tours &Travel, nearthe off themainroad tures andarrivals,departingfromRaha connectswith (TSh1000) road viaOle)and324(Wete toKonde). 334 (Wete toChake Chake alongthe‘new’ Chake Chake alongthe‘old’roadviaZiwani), updated informationonboth. Sharouk isthebestplacefor GuestHouse hours).8am onWednesday(US$20,eight bar at10pmFriday,anddepartingWete at and Wete, departingZanzi- Zanzibar tween is aneasywalk. drop youatthejunction, fromwhere Tumbe reputedly justascruelhis father. (see med binAdbulRahmin opposite ), and main road.Harun wasthesonof Moham- ily atthesignposted ‘Haruni’ site, eastof the bathroom US$15/20, with private bathrooms/dUS$25) bathroom US$15/20,withprivate hours). The scruffy hours). Thescruffy and Tanga at10amSunday(US$25,five rently departsWete at10amWednesday Wete andTanga (onthemainland).Itcur- changinga constantly schedule between The small THERE&AWAYGETTING this placediagonallyopposite. the unlikely thatSharouk’s event isfull,try meals intown(mealsTSh4000). clean roomswithnetandfan,thebest road atthewestern endof town,hassimple, justoff themainwelcoming guesthouse, www.lonelyplanet.com of Africa more East than the lowland ble for resembling rain thehighland forests covered wideswathes of Pemba. Itisnota- the much larger natural forest thatonce forestThe small, dense at Ngezi ispartof Ngezi market cove, andisthesite of Pemba’s largest The large village of Tumbe liesonasandy Tumbe Chwaka areChwaka someovergrown in. is brought cially inthemorningswhenday’s catch if you’re inthearea, it’sworthastop,espe- A shuttlebusfromWete toMkoani The mainbusroutes are 306(Wete to Take the335busandask driver to Bomani GuestHouse About 2kmsoutheastfromTumbeat Sepideh . There’s nowhere oreat,but tostay Takrima ’s scheduled departure time. sails roughly weekly on weekly roughly sails

Aziza ( % 245 4384;s/dwithshared sails weekly be- weekly sails Sepideh ruins , primar- depar- fish In ec (below). Beach to combineNgezi withavisittoVumawimbi is Better toTSh2000. an additionalTSh1000 ing todropyouattheinformationcentre for to 4kmwalk.Busdrivers are sometimeswill- take thebustoKonde,fromwhere it’sa3km Konde andTondooni.Viapublictransport, beneath theshadyforest canopy. with ashortnature trailthatwindsitsway s/d fullboardUS$170/240; ( is torelax onbeautiful Peninsula inPemba’s northwestern corner The mainreason tocomethe Kigomasha Peninsula Kigomasha protected bat uniquetotheisland.Theforest isnowa being thehomeof thePemba flyingfox –a aswellfor forests foundonZanzibar, Archipelago –but it’sstill quite low-key as circuit and theZanzibar northern safari Tanzania’s most popular attractions –the Northeastern Tanzania islocated between TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN all thewayup. walk orpaythe driver extratobringyou of Manta fromwhere Reef, to you’llneed Makangale village, about4km or5kmsouth pick-up dailyinthemorningfrom Konde to site ZanAir. there’s Otherwise, atleastone on themainstreet inChake Chake, oppo- here, stopbyManta bookingoffice Reef’s lodge canhelpyouorganise diving.Toget cabins,andthe rusticsea-facing fortably the openocean.Accommodationis incom- viewsover topwithspectacular windy cliff and thesuperblysituated masha peninsulaare Hitching isslowgoing. ate aliftwithoneof theKondebusdrivers. Chake Chake. Alternatively, trytonegoti- bicycle fromKonde,orviahire carfrom with you. bring whatever foodanddrinkyou’llneed small fishingvillage, there’s nothinghere, so the peninsula’seastern side. Otherthana % Ngezi isalongthemainroadbetween On thenorthwestern endof theKigo- The bestwaytoget toVumawimbiison 0747-424637, 423930;www.mantareeflodge.com; reserve NORTHEASTERN TANZANIANORTHEASTERN

(admission TSh4000; h Panga yaWatoroBeach mid-Jun–mid-Apr) Vumawimbi Beach Vumawimbi Manta Reef Lodge Reef Manta

h 8am-4pm) , ona 157 on

TANZANIA TANZANIA the Catholic mission. the Catholic Internet, try nextdoor,changesfinance Bank, cash.For at thetownentrance. TheNationalMicro- There’s acardphoneatthetelecom building Information weekend excursion fromDaresSalaam. nearby beaches make it anagreeable dayor charm longhistory,sleepy and Bagamoyo’s buildings are inanadvancedstage of decay, mac roadfromDaresSalaam.While most spurred alongbycompletionof agoodTar- which itisonlynowbeginningtorecover, intoaslowdeclinefrom Bagamoyo sending wastransferredthe capital toDaresSalaam, against thecolonialgovernment. In1891 it wasthesite of thefirst major uprising Africa,andin1888 of East capital German here. wasthe From 1887 to1891Bagamoyo Livingstone, beganandendedtheirtrips explorers, and includingBurton,Stanley to theinterior, andmanyof theEuropean for missionariestravelling fromZanzibar asawaystation itserved Later with thesea. caravan route Tanganyika linkingLake can coastandwastheterminus of thetrade Afri- dhowportsalongtheEast important Sleepy wasonceoneofBagamoyo themost % BAGAMOYO sonable timeframeandbudget. and thewestern Usambaras withinarea- areaswith inlandmountain such asAmani and thebeaches northorsouthof Pangani – attractions–Saadani GameReserve coastal Arusha, andit’squite possibletocombine frombothDaresSalaam and ily accessed venture furtherafield.Mostplaces are eas- touristloopbutdon’thavestandard timeto thanthe thing more off-the-beaten-track area toexplore ifyou’re lookingforsome- far astourismisconcerned.It’sarewarding 158 the beach isthe colourful cially thearea along Ocean Rd. Nearby on moyo doors, Zanzibar-style carved buildings andnarrowstreets dotted with colonialWith itscrumbling German-era Sights &Activities can helpwithguides andexcursions. the mainjunction attheentrancetotown The small 023 NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN ••Bagamoyo iswellworth aleisurely stroll, espe- 4MSK

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(per hrTSh2000; port h , where you central Baga- 9am-6pm) at the entrance to the Catholic mission. the entrance to theCatholic running parallel tothe beach, just southof grounds and arestaurant. It’s on theroad with cottages scattered around expansive This isone of thebetter-value beach places, admission free, donationsappreciated; yahoo.co.uk; rfrom TSh10,000-20,000) yahoo.co.uk; with bougainvillea blossoms. with bougainvillea Look forthethatched entrygate covered direction.be abletopointyouintheright Sanaa, andisunsignposted. Anyoneshould few minutes onfootafter passingChuo Cha meals. It’sjustinfromtheroadto the left,a frills roomswithfan,andthepossibility of verted withasmallgarden,clean,no- house homy, thisisthebestbudget bet–acon- overgrown butintriguing performances. sional traditionaldancinganddrumming national dancecompanyandsite of occa- Travellers Lodge Travellers MIDRANGE NicePlace Mary BUDGET Sleeping &Eating www.college-of-arts.org) (College ofArts; Mission a mango-shadedavenue is the can watch boatbuilders atwork,orvisit the roadtoDaresSalaamis Town enroute toWestminster Abbey. body waslaidbefore beingtaken toZanzibar Nearby isthechapel where Livingstone’s valuables. in agroupandwithguide, not carry reputation soit’sbesttowalk formuggings, routes, andespeciallythebeach route, have a runningpastChuochathe road Sanaa. Both There’s longer aneasier,slightly route along metres inlandandlookforthestonepillars. the beach apparently ends,goafew hundred village intothemangrove swamps.Where along thebeach forabout5kmpastKaole the 15thcentury.Toget here, headsouth land Tanzania), andsome gravestones from century mosque(oneof theoldestonmain- TSh35,000/45,000, s/d beachcottageTSh45,000/55,000) .com; campingwithshower TSh5000,s/dgardencottage TSh1500) Further southalongthebeach are the About 2kmnorthof townandreached via About 500msouthof along Bagamoyo fish market , withanexcellent . These includetheremains. These of a13th- .

( % ( % 244 0077;www.travellers-lodge 0744-024015; maryniceplace@ www.lonelyplanet.com museum Kaole ruins Kaole Holy Ghost Catholic Holy GhostCatholic Chuo chaSanaa , homeof the h Simple and

( % 10am-5pm)

(admission 244 0010; .

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159 TANZANIA TANZANIA beach atthesouthernendof town. cheaper roomssharingfacilities.It’sonthe en suite roomswithZanzibar-style bedsand run placehasalarge, thatched restaurant, SAADANI GAME RESERVE RESERVE SAADANI GAME hours) theday. throughout 1½moyo andDaresSalaam(TSh1000, Chalinze). northofDar esSalaam–Arushahighway, (65kmwestonthe fromMsata Bagamoyo mac. Witha4WDit’salsopossible toreach Salaam, andaneasydrive alonggoodTar- isabout70kmnorthofBagamoyo Dares &Away There Getting Lazy Lagoon TOP END 160 River, where you’re hippos, likely to see to explore further afield. and isagood choice ifyoudon’t have time Dar esSalaam asanovernight excursion from time. It’s alsoeasilyaccessed the same where youcanenjoythe beach andbushat laxing, it’soneof thefew spots inTanzania approval by Parliament). andre- Laid-back but name(awaitingfinal park ineverything patch of wildernessthatis a national coastal tiny a1000-sq-km Saadani GameReserve, About is 70kmupthecoastfromBagamoyo TSh24,000/30,000) bathroomshared bathroomTSh12,000,d/trwithprivate beachhotel.com; campingwithshowersTSh3000,d from TSh4000). from TSh4000). cuisine isvaguelyFrench, (meals andtasty location justnorthof Travellers Lodge. The a few no-frills beach tothewater), blocks (askfortheonecloser compound. You canleave yourvehicle inthefisheries it’s justashortboatrideover tothelodge. Mbegani Fisheriescompound,fromwhere tothe follow signsfromthemainhighway peninsula. Toget here Lagoon byroad, Lazy 10km southof onthesecluded Bagamoyo 240; s/dfullboard&boattransfers.tanzaniasafaris.info; US$160/ a with fanTSh26,000/32,000,air-conTSh34,000/42,000; .com; bandasperpersonwithshared bathroomTSh9000,s/d Bagamoyo BeachResort Buses and minibuses ply between Baga- plybetween andminibuses Buses To the south of the reserve istheWami To the south of the reserve Badeco BeachHotel ) NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN Reserve ••SaadaniGame Fineandfriendly,withroomsintwo s ) Arelaxing, upmarket placeabout

( % This long-standing German- Thislong-standing 0748-237422, 0744-237422;www

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( % 244 0018;www.badeco 244 0083;bbr@baganet and a seaside andaseaside US$290/500; s/dfullboard&parkfeeswww.saadanisafarilodge.com; 0741-323318; www.saadani.com;s/dfullboard US$255/350) Zanzibar). Coastal Aviation Coastal Zanzibar). flies between Saadani, US$75 one way Dar–Saadani, via and Saadani (US$50one wayZanzibar– connect Dar, Zanzibar flights Daily ZanAir AIR &Away There Getting ing site. Nochildren years undereight old. guided walkstoanearbygreen-turtle nest- for excursions aroundthecamp,including vehicle there’s andboatsafaris, thechance a low-key, way.Inadditionto comfortable isveryaries, andeverything plush,butin on thebeach justoutsidetheparkbound- das Accommodation isinluxuriousraised other relaxing forexploringSaadani. base tropicalhideawaymakesThis secluded, an- Lodge Saadani Safari Sleeping US$20/5 peradult/child. costs guides costUS$10perday.Camping per adult/child aged five to15years, and costsUS$20/5 perday Entry tothereserve Information drives andwalks. boat tripsalongtheWamiRiver andwildlife and (rarely) lions.Themainactivitiesare elephants,Lichtenstein’salso see hartebeest youmay andwithsomeeffort monly seen, merkops andkingfishers. are Giraffes com- fish eagles, ham- flamingos (inthedelta), crocodiles andmanybirds,includinglesser latrines andbucket showers. side theparkin Saadani village. Ithaspit ispossibleatthisbasic campout- Camping sandbank. walks andsnorkelling excursions toanearby ontheWamiRiver,safaris vehicle safaris, excellent. Leisure-time pursuits includeboat friendlyand helpful,andthecuisineis staff mosphere isunpretentious andcomfortable, overlookinghouse asmallwaterhole. Theat- sundownerdeck,andatreewith araised directly onthebeach. There’s arestaurant cottages isset nine cosyandcomfortable from which toexplore thearea. of Each the only lodgingwithinthepark,andafinebase Warthog Camp Warthog Tent Lodge Safari WithaView hiddenawayamongthecoconutgroves s ) Thisbeachside retreat isthe

(camping US$8,tentrental US$10)

( % 022-277 3294,0741-555678; www.lonelyplanet.com

( % 022-211 0507, ban- , close to town. close land, ascan anyof the hotels. river andexcursions toMaziwe cruises Is- the riverfront canhelp organise town tours, you couldbecollected bythelodges. Mkwaja five (TSh5000, hours), fromwhere There’s Tanga alsoadailybusbetween and per vehicle each way(aboutonehour). Tides ( p162 ) provide transfers forUS$100 gaji. Tent WithAViewSafariLodge andthe northern gate atMli- only) tothereserve’s road(4WD continue southalongarough to first crossthePangani River byferry, then the remaining 60kmfromthere toSaadani. by bus,butthere’s nopublictransportfor It’seasyto getArusha highway. toMandera 50km northtoMandera village alongthe Chalinze ontheMorogororoad,andthen one way(aboutfourhours). Dar esSalaamforaboutUS$200pervehicle, Both lodges provide roadtransportto/from ROAD one way,minimumtwopassengers). (US$130 GameReserve Saadani andSelous www.lonelyplanet.com Program office adically functioning banksareThe closest inTanga. Thespor- Information 10km offshore is ofera, andoldhouses Indiantraders. About colonial ways, buildingsfromtheGerman the river, where there door- are somecarved faded intoanonymity. Tanga andDaresSalaam,Pangani again end of the19thcentury,focushadshifted to Bythe andMombasa. Bagamoyo between slaves andivory,oneof thelargest ports Tanganyika,Lake amajor export pointfor come aterminus of thecaravan route from just oneof dhowportstobe- many coastal Pangani. fromobscure Itrose beginningsas charmingly dilapidated Swahili outpostof About 55kmsouthof Tanga isthesmalland % PANGANI sion TSh1000) at lowtide,andthere’s nofoodordrink. can snorkel. Theislandcanonlybe visited It’s not safe to walkalong the beaches To reach SaadanifromPangani, youneed From DaresSalaam,theroute isvia The mostinteresting area of townisnear 027 , a small sand islandwhere, asmallsand you

( h Maziwe Marine Reserve Reserve Marine Maziwe 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Pangani Cultural Tourism Tourism Pangani Cultural (admis- on gaining abilities. pending onroadconditionsandyour bar- Tanga de- toTSh25,000, costTSh20,000 where it’sjustashortwalk.Taxis from from Pangani, fromTanga), TSh800 from mbe village atthePeponi turn-off (TSh500 and askthedriver todropyou nearKigo- ning alongthePangani–Tanga route coastal in advanceifpossible. Take anybusrun- inthe and ifyou’llbestaying If you’re camping,bringsupplieswithyou, US$40, discounted family & backpacker rates) US$40, discountedfamily&backpacker campingUS$4,dbanda 540139; www.peponiresort.com; s/d/tr US$25/35/45) its own and onwardconnections,thecamphas helpful withinformationaboutexcursions complete thepicture. Theproprietors are cuisine andanearbyreef forsnorkelling ing groundandablutionblocks.Tasty largerseveral five-person chalets, acamp- to simple,breezy double about 19kmnorthof Pangani. Inaddition pansive groundsonalong,goodbeach ing andtraveller-friendly inex- placeset US$30/40, sluxurytentsUS$51-60,d US$60-84) campingUS$5,s/dbandas [email protected]; of theriver aroundUshongo. onthesouthernside road),orthose coastal tion (where theroadfromMuhezajoins the beaches tothenorthof themainjunc- Few travellers intown,mostpreferring stay PANGANI &NORTH of town. of thebeaches runningnorthandsouth isonone yourself The bestplacetobase Sleeping &Eating main junction. Five minutes’ walk away isa inland, andjust northofbungalows set the commodation isinlarge, fadedtwin-bedded the other beach placesare better value. Ac- Tinga Tinga isa reasonable choice, though of themainjunction. and issignposted about3kmnorth the sea, of overlooking excursions. It’sonalowcliff stone camps. Theresafari are alsosomesmall luxury tents of thesortyoufindinupscale ern coast.Mostaccommodationis inraised upmarket accommodation alongthenorth- This good-value istheonly establishment NORTHEASTERN TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Pangani Argovia TentedArgovia Lodge Peponi HolidayResort Tinga Tinga Resort bandas, mashua agoodrestaurant andarange Thefriendlyand low-key (motorised dhow) for sails. dhow)forsails. (motorised

( %

( % 263 0022;campingTSh4000,

( % 263 0000,0748-783613; bandas 0748-202962, 0741- bandas , there are Arelax- , book 161

TANZANIA TANZANIA cost US$20return. other excursions. Pick-upsfromPangani ona sails canarrange very openandnatural.Staff bathroom US$21/42/60) s/d withshared bathroom US$18/36,s/d/trwithprivate surrounding streets. but tryPangani’s lively markets night in the east of There’s theCustomsHouse. nofood, facilities. It’sonthewaterfront just road, cheapest place,with no-frills roomssharing lows are madeentirely of is aboutaslaid-back asitgets. Thebunga- andarestaurant,out alongthesand, and row of agreeably rusticbungalowsstrung beach about2kmnorthof theTides, hasa half boardUS$110/150) Beach Lodge. Beach just infromthe beach southof Emayani you’ll have mostspotstoyourself. the immediate vicinityof Ushongo village, tide dependent,andapartfromthearea in getaway. Swimmingisn’t wonderful coastal south of Pangani aroundUshongo makes a The long,palm-fringed beach about 15km SOUTH OFPANGANI St; s/dwithshared bathroomTSh2500/4000) overlooking thewater. restaurant-bar gazebo(mealsaboutTSh4000) 162 Ushongo and for charter ZanAir flights. There’s an airstrip within about1km of AIR &Away There Getting between DaresSalaamandArusha. between connections totheScandinavian Express bus where andto/fromSegera, there areserve, can transfers to/from Saadani GameRe- Pick-ups fromPangani canbe arranged, as side retreat, it’shardtobeatthevaluehere. island. Forahoneymoonlocation,orbeach- can sortoutexcursions, includingtoMaziwe rooms. There’s abeachside bar,andstaff billowing mosquitonets,andlarge bath- wonderful, withhuge bedssurrounded by the coconutpalmsalongbeach –are bungalows–linedupamid ine. Theseven cious, breezy bungalowsandexcellentcuis- mixes locationwithspa- anintimate seaside lodge.com; s/d/trUS$63/79/100) Coco BeachResort Tides &Lodge InnRestaurant View New River Emayani BeachLodge NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN ••Tanga

( % ngalawa 0748-225812; www.thetideslodge.com;s/d Thisunpretentious place Small, serviceable cottages Small,serviceable

( % (outrigger canoe) and (outrigger canoe) ( % 0741-333449; camping US$6, Emayani,onthe 250 1741;www.emayani makuti, Thisisthe and are

(Jamhuri (Jamhuri 9pm) Come here forInternet access. 8am-12.15pm Sat &Sun)Opposite themarket. Mkwakwani Rd; MD Pharmacy Kaributanga.com Information Mombasa. a convenient stopenroute toandfrom itmakesspecial detourto visit,although charm. There’s littlereason tomake a atmosphere semicolonial andfaded sleepy, seaport, still animportant Tanga hasa of market,until thecollapse thesisal and One of Tanzania’s major industrialtowns % TANGA the day(TSh200). totake amotorcycle)throughout enough and there are boats(large smallpassenger perperson/vehicle),daily (TSh100/4000 6.30amand6.30pm runs intheorybetween Pangani andcycledowntoUshongo. north, andabout3.30pmgoingsouth. (6km fromUshongo) dailyabout7amgoing Mweravillage thatpasses Game Reserve) Tanga andMkwaja (attheedge of Saadani natively, there’s abusthatruns between Pangani, allthehotels dopick-ups. Alter- nections infrequent. or Korogwe,buttheroadisworse andcon- from where there are connectionstoTanga reach Pangani fromMuheza(TSh1000), a Tanga–Arusha bus.It’salsopossibleto at about6.30amsoyoucanconnectwith Thefirst departs Panganirainy season. hours), of exceptduringtheheight the 1½ with aboutfive daily(TSh1500, buses Tanga are viatherehabilitated road, coastal PanganiThe bestconnectionsbetween and ROAD Zanzibar. Mkokotoni, onthenorthwestern coast of regularly PanganiDhows sail between and BOAT toSaadaniandTanga).and Coastal toSaadani to nearbydestinations(ZanAir check with,asbothhave scheduled flights AviationCoastal are thebestlinesto The vehicle ferry over thePangani River Another possibilityistohire abike in To Ushongo andthebeaches southof 027 ( h % 8am-12.45pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.45pm &2-6pm Mon-Fri, (Sokoine St; perhrTSh500; 264 4067;cnr SokoineSt& www.lonelyplanet.com h 9am- Tanga air-con TSh7000/10,000; by theSea. Rd issignposted about500mbefore Inn tion onTanga. fromHospital Theturn-off are helpfulwithexcursions andinforma- and anicegardenrestaurant. Management lutions, powerpoints,awell-stocked bar secure campinginalarge yard,spotlessab- [email protected]; AmboniRd;campingUS$4) [email protected]; Kiboko Restaurant, Bar & Campsite Bar&Campsite Restaurant, Kiboko BUDGET Sleeping TanzaniaTourcare NBC www.lonelyplanet.com per day). pergroup with arrangingguidesforexcursions(TSh10,000 and ant; helpfulwithinformationonnearbyattractions, h about twohours. for theprice. Meals canbearranged; allow they’rerooms, although value fairenough ern edge Kazone, of andvery Ras run-down waterside onthesouthwest- pleasant setting changes cashandtravellerscheques,hasanATM. To BusStation(200m); AsadHotel Chumbageni

(200m); Tongoni Ruins(20km); Goan St Goan Peponi Holiday Resort (30km); Rd Mombasa 1 3 2 TANGA ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Inn bytheSea 8am-5pm Mon-Sat)JustdownfromPatwas restaur- (cnr Bank & Sokoine Sts) Just west of the market; (cnrBank&SokoineSts)Justwestofthemarket; Mombasa (170km) Horohoro (70km); To AmboniCaves(8km); Dar esSalaam(355km) Muheza (37km); To Airstrip(2.5km); Pangani (50km) Ocean BreezeHotel...... Kiboko Restaurant,Bar&Campsite.... Inn bytheSea...... Hotel KolaPrieto...... Tourcare Tanzania...... NBC Bank&ATM...... MD Pharmacy...... Kaributanga.com...... haMsu...... B3 Shia Mosque...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Kilimanjaro Rd

Mombasa Rd AC

Sokoine (Market) St (Market) Sokoine Independence Ave Independence St Anthony's

Cathedral Ring St Ring

( ( %

Jamhuri % Port Rd Port Park a Ὀ 264 4614;HospitalRd;rwithfan/ Uhuru Park 264 4111;MkwakwaniRd;

Taifa Rd ) Railway St hasa InnbytheSea Train Station Ngamiani

(Closed) Eckernförde Ave Eckernförde Tanga Bay See Enlargement 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

( D3 D2 D2 D3 C3 C3 C3 D3 Mkwakwani Rd % B 264 4929;jda Coastal Aviation...... (see5) SD Supermarket...... Patwas Restaurant...... Food Palace...... aiRn...... D3 Taxi Rank...... TRANSPORT EATING Guinea Rd Good,

Ring St Arab Rd Arab Usambara St

Custom὆὆ ὆὆ St 5 Swahili St multistorey buildingjustoffTaifa RdintheNgamianiarea. Functional roomswithviewsoverthebusstand;it’sina efficient service and,despite thebland service efficient has goodmodernrooms(nonetsorscreens), Ocean Breeze Hotel Ocean Breeze Panori Hotel Panori MIDRANGE Hotel Asad Ras Kazone, andfollowthesignposts. Ras meals. Takeand tasty Rdeastto Hospital and anoutdoorrestaurant withslowservice rooms inthenewwing,allwithnetsandfan, midrange choices. There are clean,modern public transport),thisisoneof thebetter dential area about3kmfromthecentre (no a vated wingTSh18,000/22,000,inoldTSh15,000/18,000; s/dinnewwingTSh25,000/30,000,oldreno- Kazone; Ras Sts; rwithfan/air-conTSh7000/12,000; 500; the towncentre. andoneofthebetterbudgetchoicesin east ofthemarket, are onthescruffyside,butOK,andmanyhavenets. It’sjust Other recommendations: Hotel KolaPrieto Hotel ) a

Hospital Rd Ifyoudon’tmindthelocation,inaresi- NORTHEASTERN TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Tanga

Bombo ὈὈὈ

Makongoro Rd ) This centrally located high-rise hotel Thiscentrallylocated high-rise ( 13 12 11 10 % Stadium

C2 C3 D3 Jamhuri ( 3 Park % 264 4711,6801;dTSh12,500; Hospital Bombo 264 6044; [email protected]; 264 6044;[email protected];

BankMarket St ( 11 2

4 Mkwakwani Rd % 12 0 0 ( 0.3miles 0 0

% Eckernförde Ave Eckernförde Tower St 264 4445;cnrTower&Sokoine Tower 264 4206;IndiaSt;rTSh25, Clock 8

Sokoine (Market) St (Market) Sokoine Amboni Rd 9 7

Guinea Rd India St India a

13 Independence Ave Independence D 1 ) Roomshere 0.1 miles Tanga

Yacht Arab Rd Arab Usambara St Club 200 m

Ring St 500 m Kazone To Panori 10 6 Ras (300m) a Hotel Custom St 163

) TANZANIA TANZANIA Mon, breakfast, lunch&dinnerTue-Sun) market. and helpfulowners. It’sjustsouthof the lassis place, andthebestrestaurant inTanga, with TSh1500; tarian selections. tarian dian snacksandmeals,includingsomevege- choice, thisplacehasanarrayof In- tasty hours). ing ineach direction at10am(US$25,five Tangatween andWete on Pemba, depart- The boat BOAT ( There are with dailyflights AIR &Away There Getting wiches and green pepper-sauce, kingfishcurry,sand- portions of such delicaciesasprawnswith huge menufeaturing awell-stocked baranda Garden seating, accommodation withafew culinary gems: Tanga compensates foritsdearthof good Eating sensation’. with the‘finesthospitality ofpromise itsbusinesscardtoprovide you agoodjobofambience, does fulfillingthe 164 seven hours). three To Lushoto (TSh4000, seven ures about6am and11am (TSh9000, between five8am and 3pm(TSh6000, hours). depart Tanga few every hours about between otherlines andseveral Leo Raha Otherwise, fourhours;to TSh10,000, book inadvance). about12.30pm(TSh7000 from Mombasa) on Scandinavian, departingTanga (enroute To DaresSalaam, thefastest connectionis BUS not farfromHotel KolaPrieto. theShiaoffice isoffIndiaSt,near mosque, Coastal’s inataxi). Korogwe road(TSh2500 airstrip isabout3kmwestof townalongthe and Pemba/Dar es SalaamUS$55/100).The andPembaZanzibar Tanga (onewaybetween behind themarket. % Food Palace Kiboko Restaurant &Bar Restaurant Kiboko For self-catering try For self-catering Patwas Restaurant To Arusha, there are atleastthree depart- 264 6548) NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN ••AroundTanga , fresh good-value juices,tasty, meals h Takrima 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) between Tanga, between Dar esSalaam, mishikaki

( % sails roughly weekly be- weekly roughly sails 264 6816;SokoineSt;

(Mkwakwani Rd;mealsfrom kiboko . See also . See p163 . SD Supermarket

Anunassuming (meals fromTSh3000) - (hippo-)sized Anothergood Coastal Aviation

h (Bank St) lunch , board). From here, theruins are about1km get out atthe turn-off (lookfor arusty sign- wards Pangani roadand along thecoastal tradingport. coastal or 15thcentury,when Tongoniwasamajor tombs are estimated todate from the14th Africancoast.Boththe mosqueandthe East the largest collection of such tombs onthe 20 overgrown Shirazi pillar-style tombs– crumbling remains of amosqueandabout ruins roadarecoastal thetime-ravaged About 20km southof Tanga alongthe Tongoni Ruins stone caves Long thesubjectof locallegend, these Amboni Caves AROUND TANGA Tanga aboutnoon. passes navian busfromDartoMombasa road. the coastal are the day along throughout smallbuses Arusha busandtransfer atMombo. departingby7am,oryoucan take any buses to four hours), there are acoupleof direct the touristofficeinTanga. River. Guidescanbe arranged locallyorat caves stretch westalong theMkulumuzi on foottoKiomonivillage, fromwhere the forestry office. Fromhere, it’sabout2.5km turn-off forthecaves, which isnearthe towards Ambonivillage andget out atthe charterOtherwise ortake a ataxi, bicycleridefromtown. road, andaneasy west of Tanga theHorohoro–Mombasa off yourfeetbat droppingsoff afterwards. toavoid topick needing shoes wear closed persist. Ifyouvisit,bringalongatorch, and of themreaching allthewaytoMombasa that theirextent wasmuch smaller,rumours concluded a1994survey British. Although during the1950sasahide-outfrom have bytheKenyan used been Mau Mau tend upto200kmormore, andare to said brochures. all it’smadeouttobeintheTanga tourist an interest it’s not inspelunking,although excursion for anyone with guing, off-beat To get here, take anyvehicle heading to- For Mombasa, see see For Mombasa, p257 ; theScandi- To Pangani 1½hours), (TSh1500, there The caves are located about8kmnorth- The caves were toex- originallythought

(admission TSh2000)

(admission TSh2000) . Theyinclude the www.lonelyplanet.com make anintri- daladala Tongoni lime-

along theroadleadingtowardsmarket. leave fromthemainjunction ture Reserve via MuhezaandTanga). toAmaniNa- Buses DaresSalaamandMombasa between buses (for nexttoHoteling office Ambassador road towardsTanga. % KOROGWE including thegrubby way. There are afew intown, guesthouses Pangani branch themainTanga off high- andto the roadstoAmaniNature Reserve Muheza isascrappyjunctiontown where % MUHEZA lift backintheafternoon canbedifficult. asfindinga anearlystart, east onfoot.Get www.lonelyplanet.com rainy season. round, paths get very muddy during the Kilindi, the Ziguaandthe Mbugu. lated, withthe maintribesthe Sambaa,the Bothrangesdeveloped. are popu- densely eastern Usambaras, around Amani, are less and have the better roadnetwork,whilethe western Usambaras are themostaccessible ranges bya4km-wide valley.The separated Arcchain,cient Eastern are dividedintotwo ofexploring asaseries daywalks. lage, orrelaxing inonespotanddoing your hereleast aweek hikingfromvillage tovil- It’seasilypossible tospendat highlights. ambaras are oneof northeastern Tanzania’s ing paths andpicturesque villages, the Us- coolclimate, wind- With theirwidevistas, MOUNTAINSUSAMBARA (d TSh7500) 40,000; service). passenger (no is ‘old’Korogwewiththetrainstation Totheeast guesthouses. andseveral stand town, knownas‘new’Korogwe,are thebus transport junction.Inthewestern part of Korogwe isof littleinterest otherthan asa with shared bathroomTSh2500/3500) the main highway andisunmissable. the mainhighway andminifridge. It’son rooms thathave TV restaurant and withspiffy (mealsTSh4000), There’s aScandinavian Express busbook- While the climate year- iscomfortable which areThe mountains, partof thean- Parrot White Motel For somethingcheaper, try 027 027 a , opposite thebusstand. ) isalarge roadsiderest stopwitha

( % Hotel Ambassador Hotel 264 1068;s/dTSh30,000/ onthemain Travellers Inn Travellers

(s/d

at Amaniandthe Amani withyour owntent andsupplies. mation centre. day) canbepaidhere, orattheSigiinfor- Entry andguidefees (US$20pergroup Amani. centre office in atSigi,andthereserve Nature Reserve, Guide toTrails Routes inAmani andDrive hours. Theyare inthebooklet, detailed to theoffice. isnext office. The RestHouse to thereserve main fork,ignoring the‘resthouse’ signpost, pastthe once inAmani,continuestraight RestHouse, Centre Amani Conservation the Sigiinformationcentre. Toreach the is opposite supplement. TheSigiRestHouse a goodideatobringfruitandsnacks asa areTSh5000) available it’s atboth,though Meals (breakfast lunch TSh2500, anddinner and rusticatmosphere are better atAmani. ginally more whilethe setting comfortable, rooms atSigihave bathrooms and are mar- bathing, andfiltered water fordrinking.The at Sigi.Bothare good,withhotwater for House Rest Centre the runs twoguesthouses: The SLEEPING &EATING ( At Sigi,there isagood INFORMATION inclined. ornithologically orbotanically forest paths, andaworthwhiledetourforthe walksalongshady place withsomepleasant eastern Usambara It’sapeaceful mountains. located westof Tanga intheheartof the Reserve Amani Nature This often overlooked is nature reserve one truck or busdaily from Muheza to in bad shape (4WDonly). There’s atleast kilometres,for thefinal seven which are a dirtroad thatisinfair conditionexcept Amani is 32kmnorthwest of Muhezaalong THERE&AWAYGETTING fee perpersonUS$30,vehicleUS$5) plants andmore. plants andanimals,history,localmedicinal withinformationaboutthearea’sHouse, h NORTHEASTERN TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••Muheza Most trails take between oneandthreeMost trailstake between Camping The main 8am-6pm) Amani Conservation Centre Centre Amani Conservation

(US$5) at the old Station Master’s attheoldStation reserve office reserve ispossibleatboth Sigiand on sale attheinformation onsale (rwithshared bathroomTSh5000) Sigi Rest House Rest Sigi

( % Amani Conservation Amani Conservation information centre 027-264 0313;entry ( % isatAmani. 027-264 0313)

(r TSh5000) 165 A

TANZANIA TANZANIA before starting out. before starting the street,thattheyare checkhereofficial firsttoverify Ifwould-beguidesapproachyouon for arranginghikes. to thebank,andagoodspot the smallroadrunningnext ternet access; on the main road, next toTumainiternet access;onthemainroad,next Restaurant. few days. hours to several andrangeand bananaplantations, froma paths thatweave pastvillages, cornfields wonderful walkingalongwell-worn foot- The hillssurroundingLushotooffer some ACTIVITIES InformationCentre Tourist (minimum US$40commissionfortravellerscheques). On themainroad;changescashandtravellers cheques Bank National Microfinance Office ELCT INFORMATION to becomethecolonialcapital. istrators, slated andwaseven atonepoint favoured vacationspotforcolonialadmin- asitwasthenknown)a Wilhelmstal, into thesurroundinghills. baras andmakes forhikes anexcellent base age. It’sthecentre of the western Usam- with bananaplantsandothertropicalfoli- rounded bypinesandeucalyptusmixed in afertile valleyatabout1200m,andsur- town nestled Lushoto isaleafyhighland % Lushoto the mainroad). on 2km furtheralongtotheleft(staying Amaniisaboutsignposted totheright; Bulwa the finaljunction,where you’llsee therouteuntil Muheza, isstraightforward about 6.30am.Ifyou’re drivingfrom direction, Amani transportusuallypasses noonand2pm.Goingintheother between yond A andKwamkoro,about9kmbe- (TSh1500) Sigi, sometimescontinuingontoAmani 166 through villagesthrough andforests from Lushoto to cheese, yogurt andbread. is Irente Farm, where youcanbuy fresh En route and shortly before theviewpoint to theplainsbelow; campingispossible. glican church andoffers wideviewsdown the roadrunning southwestfromtheAn- (about 1½hours return), which beginson An easystarter hike isto era,Lushoto(orDuring theGerman There’s also agood three- tofour-day hike 027 NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN ••UsambaraMountains mani, and usually departing Muheza mani, andusuallydepartingMuheza (perhrTSh2000; h ( ( % h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat)In- 264 0132)Justdown 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Irente viewpoint Irente

Lushoto guesthouses, guide and village-development guesthouses, ing camping oraccommodation in basic (less ina group)onmultiday hikes, includ- per personpay about TSh25,000 perday vary depending onthehike, butexpectto can offer suggestions forotherroutes. Rates Thetouristoffice setting. beautiful cliff-top Mtae (6km) Irente Viewpoint To IrenteFarm(5km); Anglican 4 1 3 2 5 LUSHOTO Church , asmallvillage north of Lushoto with a Lawn's Hotel...... Tourist InformationCentre...... National MicrofinanceBank...... ELCT Office...... Bus Stand...... Tumaini Restaurant...... (see6) White HouseAnnex...... View PointGuestHouse...... Usambara Lodge...... Tumaini Hostel...... New TeacherSafariniClub...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Catholic Prison Church A Ὀ Ὀ 9 Market 10 8 5 Park 0.2miles 300m 0 0 2 To KaribuniLodge(1km);StEugene's www.lonelyplanet.com 7 1 3 Hostel (2km);Soni(15.5km); 6 To MullersMountain 4 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B A4 A4 A4 B3 B4 A4 B5 B4 A4 B4 Mombo (31km) Lodge (16km); Mtae (65km) TSh1500; Point Guest House rooms andbucket showers, including grubby the market, allwithserviceable, TSh10,000/17,000) Irente Viewpoint Campsite Viewpoint Irente budget hotels nearthebusstand. thepark,away from theclutchtion near of Teacher Club Safarini just before Annex,and White House dm US$6,s/dfromUS$12/16) room TSh5000) 6000) the mainroadneartelecom building. value roomsinatwo-storey compoundon here, withafew longhallwaysof reasonable- near by the edge of theescarpment, andatthe Karibuni Lodge Karibuni Budget SLEEPING &EATING waterproof clothes. wet inLushoto,sobringajacket andwarm, fees, butexcludingfood.Itgets chilly and www.lonelyplanet.com TSh6000, s/d with private bathroom Sh7000/8000) TSh6000, s/dwithprivate directly opposite Annex. White House TSh30,000/35,000) bathroombathroom TSh14,000/18,000,withprivate .com; campingwithhotshowerTSh4500,s/dshared bus todropyouatthehospital. andissignposted; askthe district hospital 1.5km southof thetowncentre nearthe meals andacracklinghearth.It’sabout (some withbathroom),abookswap,tasty forest, hasacosy,woodsyfeel, large rooms ers’ surroundedbyasmallpatch of house, lots of space. withlargehowever, lawns,hotshowers and tiges of rustic charm. It’sidealforcamping, days,butstillretainsquite ves- fadedthese the entrancetotownhasroomsthatare next door,andhasinexpensive meals. and goupthehill. headoverstand: thesmallbridge, turnleft order. It’sfive minutes’ walkfromthebus frills roomswithhotwater, andmealson r withshared bathroomTSh6000) There are lotsof near basicguesthouses At Irente Viewpoint,there’s campingat Tumaini Restaurant Tumaini Hostel White HouseAnnex White Lawn’s Hotel Usambara Lodge More no-frills rooms,andagoodloca- Irente Farm Irente h breakfast, lunch&dinner) , diagonally acrossfrom and ( ThisLushotoinstitutionat Functionalityisthetheme www.karibunilodge.com; campingUS$3, www.karibunilodge.com;

( ( % ( %

% (rwith shared bathroom TSh3500) (s/d withshared bathroom3500/ ( % 264 0005/66;www.lawnshotel 264 0094; [email protected]; s/d 264 0094;[email protected];

264 0031;r withshared bath-

Thissmallbackpack- ( 264 000;campingTSh2000, % (d withshared bathroom

. (camping TSh2500) 264 0027;mealsfrom Thisisjust NORTHEASTERN TANZANIANORTHEASTERN ••UsambaraMountains No- , on View View New , 30,000/40,000) the Montessori Centre. before Lushoto;askthebustodropyouat Eugene’s about3km isalongthemainroad andjamarecheese soldonthepremises. St are available andhomemade (TSh5000), port theirworkwithlocalchildren. Meals an orderof sisters andprofits go tosup- tothetowncentre.range close It’srunby hills, andisthebestaccommodationinthis showers andbalconieswithviewsover the rooms,allwithgood,hotcomfortable one is if youhave yourowntransport.Themain situated forwalking,andreasonable options ambo village are more several places,allwell TSh30,000/40,000/50,000/70,000) campingTSh3500,s/d/tr/q [email protected]; shared bathroom,andacampingarea. also afew lessappealingcementhutswith orinnearbycottages. Therehouse are ily homestead withrooms inthemain about 10am. stopforarestbuses break, beginningfrom Mombo junction,where alltheDar–Arusha on themainroadabout1kmwest of the The placetowaitisatNewLiverpool Hotel, of thelarger express toDaresSalaam. buses andthengettown onthemainhighway, one faster) get abustoMombo,thejunction can take adirect busfrom Lushotoor(often ther DaresSalaam,MoshiorArusha, you hour). Ifyou’re goingfromLushototoei- one LushotoandMombo(TSh1000, tween there are hours), alldepartinginthemorning,and six toTSh8000, and Arusha(TSh7000 toninehours) seven es Salaam(TSh8000, Tanga three (TSh4000, tofourhours), Dar travelDaily buses Lushotoand between THERE&AWAYGETTING Hostel St Eugene’s Midrange from Tanga to within around 2kms that goes There’sthe Migambo road. adaily busto/ the left.Mullers isabout1km furtherdown you’ll reach, themainroadto about1kmoff posted. Swiss Farm Cottage isthe first one Migambo, where allthree lodges are sign- junction andcontinue forabout7kmto to Magamba, atthe signposted turnright road headinguphill andnortheastof town About 15kmoutsideLushotonearMig- For thelodges near Migambo,take the Mullers MountainLodge Mullers daladalas Thisquietplacehasspotless,

( % throughout thedaybe- throughout 264 0055;s/d/steTSh18,000/ , asprawlingfam-

( % 264 0204;mullers

167 TANZANIA TANZANIA US$45/90) bathroom with shared bathroomUS$35/70,withprivate .maneno.net; campingpertentUS$10, s/d fullboard US$4, s/dUS$14/18; 663205; [email protected]; campingpertent Salaam–Arusha highway. to Lushotobranches themainDares off the Usambara where Mountains theroad Mombo isthejunction townatthefootof % Mombo Lushoto. Maweni Farm oratthetouristofficein and otherdestinationscanbearranged at some attractive butterflies. Hikes tothese 30 minutes awayonfoot,andishometo It’s knownfornearby awhileintheUsambaras.you’ll bestaying ture, butmakes agood change of paceif Lushoto road,lacksLushoto’sinfrastruc- Tiny Soni, abouthalfwayalongtheMombo– % Soni around 2pm. or 10amandreaching theMigamboarea at of thelodges, departingTanga atabout9am 168 group inthis region is thePare (Asu). two ranges: north and south. The maintribal and like the Usambaras theyare divided into baras, are also partof Arcchain, theEastern The Pare northwest of Mountains, theUsam- PARE MOUNTAINS if you’re intheirrooms. staying tion; Maweni Farm provides free pick-ups to reach via MomboandLushoto, andiseasytween about 2km. at themainSonijunctionandfollowitfor Lushoto, take thedirtroadbranching left guides fororganising walks.Comingfrom also sometented overpriced.spacious, although There are the mainjunction.Roomsare no-frills and inramblinggroundsabout3kmfrom is set main highway andissignposted. main highway for free fromMombo. the It’sabout1kmoff swimming pool, and willcomecollectyou has camping,rooms, food,abarand of about15km westof themountains town, Tembo Lodge & Campsite FarmMaweni Soni isabouthalfwayalongtheroad be- 027 027 NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA NORTHEASTERN ••Pare Mountains This atmospheric old farmhouse Thisatmosphericoldfarmhouse daladala

s ( % bandas, ) 264 0426,0748-608313;www This place,atthefoot fromeitherdestina- Kwa Mungu

plusmealsand ( % 264 1539,0748- hill,about quiet compound, andarestaurant. muddy. to May longrains,whenpaths becometoo any timeof year,exceptduringtheMarch highway. via Mwangaalongthesame North Pares, theCTPisatUsangi, reached Forthe Moshi ontheArusha–Darhighway. inSame,105kmsouthofthe CTPisbased FortheSouthPares,camping fees andmeals. for twopeopleperday,includingaguide, work of theCTP,which charges TSh25,000 camping. most accommodationiswithvillagers, or ception of Hill-TopTonaLodge inMbaga, are forthemostpartvery basic.With theex- can accessthebesthikes. to eitherUsangi orMbaga,fromwhere you Pares) getting organised, andthenheadup (for thenorthPares) orSame(forthesouth to explore atMwanga istospendanight and arrange Thebestway thingsyourself. tobeself-sufficient youwillneed though Usambaras, theyoffer rewarding hiking,al- fortourismasthe accessible ordeveloped highway stopatSame onrequest. highway Otherwise, on theDar esSalaam–Arusha Most buses THERE&AWAYGETTING Elephant Motel SLEEPING &EATING speaking guideforarrangingtreks. where there’s aknowledgeable English- or headdirectly toHill-TopTonaLodge, askatElephant Motel, Ifit’sclosed, stand. Building, diagonallyacrossfrom thebus isinthePadecoThe CTPinformationoffice for excursions intothePares thanasabase. the townismore point asastarting suitable Pares. There’s littletouristinfrastructure, and ( Same % Same way about1kmsoutheast of town. good meals,anda TV. It’son themainhigh- up rooms, acavernous restaurant serving accommodation, with fadedbutreasonable bathroom TSh3500/5000) s/d TSh15,000/20,000) The Pares at canbevisited comfortably Organised hikingisdoneintheframe- Lodging andfoodinthePare Mountains thePareAlthough are Mountains notas Amani LutheranCentre 027 sah -may) isthemaintowninSouth

( % Same’smost‘upmarket’ 275 8193;www.elephantmotel.com; Simpleroomsaround a

( % www.lonelyplanet.com 275 8107;s/dwithshared US$10) .com; campingUS$5,rperpersonwithshared bathroom when classes are not in session. Otherwise, are Otherwise, when classes notin session. days), the highest intheParedays), thehighest Mountains. top of 2463mShengena Peak (two orthree surrounding hillsandvillages, andtothe offers hikes tothe Mkomazi GameReserve, Mbaga, about30kmsoutheastof Samenear Mbaga 11am and2pm. port leaves about Samemostdays between 2½hours).8am (TSh4000, ToMbaga,trans- sha andSame,departingArushaataround morning. There isadirect Aru- busbetween es SalaamandMoshi,leaving Sameinthe travelminibuses Same,Dar dailybetween www.lonelyplanet.com serves as a ground here withwater, andthe school and accommodation. There’s acamping whereis theCTP base, you’ll find guides is concerned for hikinginthis area. centre of thenorthPares and isthebestbase Usangi, inthehills eastof Mwanga, isthe Usangi gela Guesthouse butnoisy accommodation, trytheclean sions inthenorthernPares. Forovernight get toUsangi, pointforexcur- thestarting reason tocomehere istochange vehicles to Themain Dar esSalaam–Arushahighway. Mwanga isabout50kmnorthof Sameonthe Mwanga near theSamebusstand. oneway;askatSafariGrill, about TSh40,000 in Same. Hiringavehicle uptoMbagacosts toovernightSalaam, you’llprobablyneed day.ComingfromDares Mbaga thesame togetneed abusby8aminordertoget to two tothree hours). FromMoshi,you’ll departing Samebyabout2pm(TSh2500, SameandMbaga,withthelastone tween per day).Meals are available forTSh2500. village-development fee US$2perperson cost US$6pergroupof uptothree people; tages andreasonable hikingprices(guides simplecot- with goodviews,helpfulstaff, the main highway near thenewmarket. near the mainhighway Top TonaLodge The rustic former mission house ofThe rusticformermissionhouse The mainpointof interest asfarhiking There are oneortwovehicles dailybe- is oneof inthePares, thebestbases hostel

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(camping &dmper personTSh3000) 0744-852010; tona_lodge@hotmail , about1kminfrom , which Hill- An-

School. the driver todropyouatLomwe Secondary fourhoursing (TSh5000; fromArusha).Ask there’s adirect bus,departinginthemorn- and Usangi. FromArushaandMoshi, with thenorthernparks. for wildlife watching, which can’tcompare fers forwildernesswalking,ratherthan appealing primarilyforthechance itof- destination– safari albeit very off-beat track, Mkomazicanmake aninteresting in thearea andwanttoget off thebeaten Ifyou’re these. tosee takes luckandeffort it zebrasandantelopes,raffes, although ing. Otheranimalsincludeelephants,gi- into thearea fromSouthAfricaforbreed- for itsblackrhinos,which were introduced ya’s Tsavo WestNationalPark, isknown which iscontiguouswith Ken-The reserve, sharply withthemoistforests of thePares. itsdrysavanna landscontrastingtains, border intheshadowof thePare Moun- spreads alongtheKenyanGame Reserve The completely undeveloped Reserve Mkomazi Game Mkomazi there’s asimple can bearranged at be accompaniedbyanarmedranger, which to mainattraction.You’ll need the reserve’s about 5kmeastof Same).Walkingtours are Gate (themainentrancetothereserve, atZange can bearranged withparkstaff to theblackrhinobreeding area atKisima embodies what is for many quintessential embodies what isfor manyquintessential plains of the Serengeti, northern Tanzania packed Ngorongoro Crater and thevast peaks of MtKilimanjaro, thewildlife- With features includingthe snowcapped TANZANIANORTHERN several basic several Gate.Zange Forovernighting, there are can beginawalking safari. Gate, fromwheredrop youatZange you ment isplannedtoopensoon. Amore upscaledevelop- self-sufficient. Gate. tobecompletely Forall,you’llneed including atIbaya,about15kmfrom Zange TSh4000) Several pick-ups go daily between Mwanga pick-ups godailybetween Several Reserve entrycostsUS$20perday.Visits Reserve Daladalas nearthemainmosque. between Same andMbagacan between camping grounds guesthouse NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN

reserve headquartersreserve (rwithshared bathroom

(camping US$20) 169

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, TANZANIA TANZANIA rock art. seldom-visited Mt Hanang, andintriguing ing Cultural TourismPrograms ( p264 ), the are someinexpensive alternatives, includ- thingsabit, thereyou don’t mindroughing amidrangeto planonatleast budget. If costly region, you’llneed andforsafaris, caveat isprice–thenorthTanzania’s most an increasingly hub.Themain important national Airport (KIA), which isbecoming where AfricaviaKilimanjaro Inter- inEast also direct airaccessfrom Europeandelse- tions inmanyifthemajor towns.There’s plenty of accommodation anddiningop- easy. Thetouristinfrastructure isgood,with everyone. lands offer hikingfor rugged butsatisfying the barren landscapesof theCrater High- panoramasfromitssummit; and sunrise stately MtMeru beckonswithunforgettable waterbirds filltheairatserene Eyasi; Lake be foundanywhere. life watching, which isamongthefinestto Africa. Themaindrawisof thewild- course Tanzania Northen 170 (35km) Ukerewe To (45km) To Shinyanga (60km) To Mwanza Speke Gulf Victoria NORTHERN TANZANIA Magu Lake Exploring northernTanzaniaExploring isrelatively Yet there’s much more. Haunting callsof NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Moshi Mwadui Bunda ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Maswa Musoma

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Monduli R (2660m) i f t (1570m) Ngahari V a l l e y (Mawenzi Rd;perhrTSh1000; (Mawenzi ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Longido Mt Meru (4566m) Namanga Arusha

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B1 n s .com; M tr with private bathroomTSh10,000/15,000/20,000) tr withprivate NewSt;rwithshared bathroom TSh8000,s/d/ yahoo.com; .com) of which organise hikes fortheirguests. Protea Hotel AishiMachame ( p173 ), both outof yourself base townatKilemakyaroor sure someonewillbearound.Alternatively, with foodandwater; callinadvance to be tobeself-sufficient basic, andyouwillneed ro’s Machame trailhead.Everything isvery nearKilimanja- Moshi–Arusha highway alia village about14kmnorthof themain rustic farmhouse setting orcamping. setting rustic farmhouse ina with daysspentinthebushandnights to 11days(aboutUS$1700all-inclusive), two persons) range fromhalfaday(US$75) road. Rides(which require aminimumof ations 16kmwestof theMachame Moshioff of amidcoffee afarm,which plant- isset h and manyIndiantraders. mosques vour, withaHindutemple, several Mawenzi Rd,which hasavaguelyAsian fla- especially thearea aroundthemarket and mosphere, andmakes aninteresting walk, Moshi isfullof activity andat- Central Sights &Activities international calls;neartheclocktower. building TTCL bank Standard Chartered 4-5pm Tue) Headhere ifyou’re ill. Lema Rd; Shanty TownDispensary www.lonelyplanet.com Buffalo Hotel BUDGET Sleeping directly behind Hotel NewCastle. entrance isonasmallstreet off Mawenzi Rd, and hot water, andagoodrestaurant. The roomswithfan,nethas straightforward Hotel andpopularBuffalo long-standing Shop ( p173 ) canhelpyoufindaguide. attheCoffeeeasy-to-follow footpaths. Staff Kilimanjaro’s lowerslopesare alllinked by Machame andothertownsabove Moshion ( right ) isagoodwaytobeattheheat. Tourism Program Tourism Makoa Safaris Safaris Makoa A dipinthe25m Kindoroko Hotel Kindoroko Another optionisthe The area outsideMoshiisbeautiful,and 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,to4.30pmSun) has horseback riding safaris based out based hashorseback riding safaris awenzi Rd;s/dfrom US$15/30; h 9am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to12.30pmSat, 9am-5pm Mon&Wed-Fri, (cnr Boma & Mawenzi Rds)Localand (cnrBoma&Mawenzi

( %

( ( % %

275 2775;buffalocompany2000@ ( % 027-275 7033) 0744-312896; www.makoa-farm pool ( 275 4054; kindoroko@yahoo % (Rindi Lane)ATM.(Rindi

(adult/child TSh3000/1500; 275 1601,1418; i Machame Cultural Cultural Machame attheYMCA , based inKy- , based ) Kindoroko’s The

roundabout between Kibo andTaifaroundabout betweenKibo Rds. oftheclocktoweron It’snorth over Kilimanjaro. US$10/13; as Kindoroko Hotel. as Kindoroko convenient centrallocation.Underthesamemanagement Small, cleanrooms,plusabarandrestaurant anda Rd;s/dwithshared bathroomTSh4800/9600) Mawenzi camping US$3) of thecentre alongtheMarangu road. a restaurant-bar. It’sabout1.5kmnortheast area topitch yourtent, grubbyshowers and is conveniently located, withasmall,shaded A&A Hill StAccommodation A&A Hill (TSh2000 inataxi). (TSh2000 west of thetowncentre on theArusharoad cilities andakitchen. It’s about3kmnorth- rooms inarustic annexe withshared fa- Across thestreettaurant. are somebudget new winghave balconies–andagoodres- leafy, expansive grounds–theonesin This placehasspotless good-value roomsin dropped offattheturn-off. dala the Marangu road;take aKiboroloni are welcome. It’sabout5kmfromtownoff onorder.TSh4000) andgroups Overlanders andmeals(about blocknearby, in aseparate camping, roomsinalarge or familyhouse Lutheran UhuruHostel MIDRANGE YMCA roomsaroundasmallcourtyard. Clean, no-frills bathroom TSh10,000/12,000) TSh5000/8000, withprivate &LiwaliSts;s/dwithshared bathroom cnr Market Lutheran UmojaHostel DaCosta Hotel and arestaurant. includeaforex bureau choice. Other services central locationmake itajustifiablypopular spotless, good-value rooms,rooftop barand US$41/54; Lane; s/dcottage US$54/67, s/dr Rindi kilionline.com; TSh20,000/30,000) campingTSh5000;s/d 3365; [email protected]; below. There’s nobreakfast. near thebusstand,withaninexpensiverestaurant just 12,000) Sixcleanroomswithfaninaconvenientlocation St;s/d/trTSh7000/10,000/ [email protected]; Hill US$35/45, inannexe withshared bathroom US$14/19; Toure Rd;s/dUS$16/22, innewerwing hostel.org; Sekou Other recommendations: Bristol Cottages Bristol Golden ShowerRestaurant Honey Badger Cultural Centre Honey BadgerCultural fromthetowncentre andasked toget ( % s a NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Moshi 275 1754;Taifa Rd;s/dwithshared bathroom Thisinauspiciouslynamedplace ) Spartan, noisyrooms,somewithviews ) Spartan, ) Bristol has spotless, modern ( % Enclosed grassygroundsfor Enclosed

275 5159; [email protected]; 275 5159;[email protected]; ( % ( %

275 5083, 2833;briscot@ ( % ( 275 0902;[email protected]; %

275 4084;www.uhuru ( % 275 3455;sajjad ( % 275 1990;Taifa Rd; 275 4608, dala- 171 i

)

TANZANIA TANZANIA

Moshi 172

Sekou Toure Rd Toure Sekou Kilimanjaro Impala Hotel(1.5km); Shanty TownDispensary(1.5km); To LutheranUhuruHostel(700m); 4 6 1 3 2 5

MOSHI Rd NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Moshi Arusha (80km) Kilimanjaro InternationalAirport(45km); KIA Lodge(45km); Machame (26km); Kyalia (21km); Protea HotelAishiMachame(16km); Makoa Farm(15km); To Umbwe(14km); Airport (3km) To Moshi

Kicheko.com...... Zara TanzaniaAdventures...... Shah Tours...... Mosque...... Mountaineering...... Moshi Expeditions& Hindu Temple...... Clock Tower...... Akaro ToursTanzania...... TTCL...... Standard CharteredBank&ATM...... NBC Bank&ATM...... ProjectOffice...... (see18) Kilimanjaro PorterAssistance Kilimani Pharmacy...... Immigration Office...... Fahari CyberCafé...... (see15) Executive BureaudeChange...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Pare Ave Pare AC

Kenyatta St Liwali St Liwali 29

Taifa Rd

21

Chagga St Chagga Arusha Rd Arusha

Kawawa St 14 13 12 11 10 3 4 2 1 9 8 7 6 5 C4 C3 C4 C4 D4 C5 C3 D3 C3 C4 C4 D3 B4 C4 B3 B 28 Selous St

Market

Salzburger Café...... Safari Supermarket...... Indotaliano Restaurant...... Hole intheWallSupermarket...... Hill StFoodSnacks&Takeaway.....(see15) Coffee Shop...... Chrisburger...... YMCA...... Philip Hotel...... Lutheran UmojaHostel...... Kindoroko Hotel...... Kilimanjaro CraneHotel...... Hotel DaCosta...... Buffalo Hotel...... Bristol Cottages...... A&A HillStAccommodation...... SLEEPING EATING Aga Khan Rd Khan Aga Rd Sokoine

4

Hill St Hill

Liwali St Liwali Market St

Riadha St Riadha Boma Rd Boma 18 2

25

Chagga St Chagga 20

Makinga St Makinga 30

17 Horombo Rd Horombo 33

New St 15

26 Nkomo 41 Rindi Ln Rd 22 42 27 Mawenzi Rd 16 6 14 1

Ghalla St 34

31 Rengua Rd Rengua 32 39 10 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 29 28 27 26 25 24 400m 0.2miles 0 0 Cathedral 7 3 TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Scandinavian Express BusOffice...... Royal CoachBus Office...... Riverside Shuttle...... Precision Air...... Impala Shuttle...... Davanu Shuttle...... Dar ExpressBusOffice...... Central BusStation...... Akamba BusOffice...... Air Tanzania...... Our Heritage...... Pub Alberto...... (see24) hhIdsre...... C6 Shah Industries...... Catholic 13 B5 B5 C5 C5 C5 C3 C5 D2 C3 B5 C5 D3 B5 C5 C4 43 24 12 37 9 To GoldenShowerRestaurant Badger CulturalCentre(5km); & Camping(1.5km);Honey 40 36 Dar esSalaam(555km) 5

Marangu (40km); Rindi Ln Rindi Kibo Rd 38 35 www.lonelyplanet.com 23 8 11

Marangu Rd 19 Old Moshi Rd Uru Kaunda St Rd D Train Station Kibosho (12km) To Kilemakyaro Lodge (7.5km); To Key’sHotel (Closed) 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 (400m) C3 C4 C5 C4 C3 D3 C3 C4 D3 C4 C5 C3 C5 rooms are available. day spot torelax ifyouhaveanightflightorearlyarrival; anagreeable bungalowsmake The thatched,upmarket US$100/136; trailhead, well-appointedtrailhead, rooms,walking ings justbelow Kilimanjaro’s Machame in thearea, lushsurround- with beautiful, The Aishi Machame istheclassiest hotel Rd; s/dUS$72/83; taxi). ina town off theKibosho road(TSh6000 It’sabout6kmfrom compensates. distance withviews ofsetting Kilimanjaro inthe undistinguished, but thebeautifulhilltop –are stone rondavels fine,though withTV .tz; UruRd;rUS$50,air-conplusUS$10; tower roundaboutinShantytown. restaurant. It’sabout4km fromtheclock in primandtranquilgrounds,plus agood market optionoffers well-appointed rooms Philip Hotel Philip ofparallel toandjusteast OldMoshiRd. restaurant. It’sonasmallsidestreet running andlarge beds.Downstairs isa nets, TV with advancenotice. snacks,anddinner small restaurant serving newer roomsinatwo-storey block,and a Charteredto Standard bank.There are also others withfans–inquietgrounds justnext cottagesattached –somewithair-con and www.lonelyplanet.com Impala Hotel TOP END KIA Lodge are soulless. fanandnet location, butthetwin-beddedroomswithTV, Lane&HoromboRd;s/dUS$30/40)Acentral cnr Rindi safari.com; s/dUS$65/110) safari.com; 6941; [email protected]; s/dUS$115/145; and abar. price,plusarestaurantings) forthesame smaller rondavels (circularAfricanbuild- manjaro trek withthehotel. There are also are discountsforguestswhobookaKili- are spaciousandhigh-ceilinged, andthere ellers foryears. Roomsinthemainbuilding quiet sidestreet, popularwithtrav- hasbeen about 1kmnortheastof theclocktowerona con US$60; St;s/dUS$30/40,dwithair- jarocranehotels.com; Kaunda Protea Hotel Aishi Machame AishiMachame Hotel Protea Kilemakyaro Lodge Kilemakyaro Other recommendations: Key’s Hotel Key’s Kilimanjaro CraneHotel Kilimanjaro a ( % s (

% ( )

% Good-value rooms, withfans, ( 255 4194; www.kialodge.com, s/d 255 4194;www.kialodge.com, ) This is located at Kilimanjaro airport. airport. ) ThisislocatedatKilimanjaro % s 275 4746/8;[email protected]; 275 3443/4; [email protected]; Lema 275 3443/4;[email protected]; 275 2250;[email protected] ) Central Moshi’s onlyup- Central

Roomshere –inensuite ( %

( 275 4925;www.kilimanjaro % 275 1114;www.kiliman ( % as 275 6948, ) Key’s, s )

about TSh3000; Fri, 8am-2pmSat)Goodburgersandsnacks. Fri, carvings andothercrafts. carvings leather workshop. the railwaytracks; italsooffers tours of its project. gotoachurch meals.Proceeds and light homemade breads, cakes, yogurt,breakfast assortmentofGood coffee, plusadelectable self-caterers. from TSh1000; plates oflocalfastfood. Chrisburger; Moshi’smostpopularbar.Chrisburger; d US$96-132,dayUS$60) Some placestotryforcrafts: Shopping Supermarket Safari Hole intheWallSupermarket Pub Alberto Chrisburger Café Salzburger Eating &Drinking ing nearby. in thesurroundingarea, andhorseback rid- 3km southwest of thetown centre along the There’s also thesmall about 50km west of townoff themainhighway. manjaro International Airport (KIA),about to Moshi landatKili- Almost all flights AIR &Away There Getting Italian cuisine.Italian tablecloths andagoodmixof Indianand Hotel,rant, opposite has chequered Buffalo Hill Street FoodSnacks&Take Street Away Hill rooms where youcanarrange afarmstay. has afew lovely, rusticguestcottages and (see horseback ridingsafaris p171 ), butalso fordoing roundings. It’sprimarilyabase Machame and isinequallybeautifulsur- just downtheroadfromProtea Hotel Aishi selection ofselection good,cheap dishes. vests, Austrianbar décor onthewallsanda with waitresses sportingfaux-leopard-skin Africa atthisplace,which comescomplete TSh3000-6000; Shah Industries Industries Shah Indotaliano Restaurant Indotaliano Restaurant Our Heritage FarmMakoa Also recommended: Coffee Shop NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Moshi ( ( % h h h h

(

%

( 275 0419; Kibo Rd; 275 0419;Kibo 6pm until dawn Tue-Sun) Next doorto 6pm untildawnTue-Sun) Next % 10am-11pm) 7am-midnight) (Hill St) (Hill 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to4.30pmSat) 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, ( % 0744-312896; www.makoa-farm.com; (Riadha St)Ditto. (Riadha Just southof townover 275 2707; Hill St;snacks&meals 275 2707;Hill 275 0681; Kenyatta St;meals 275 0681;Kenyatta A good selection of Agoodselection Thisscenicplaceis ( % This homyrestau- (Solanki’s; NewSt) For (Solanki’s; 275 2195;NewSt;meals The Alpsmeet h (Hill St)Cheap (Hill 8am-5pm Mon- 173

TANZANIA TANZANIA roundabout; is inKahawa neartheclocktower House are gathered before and head disembarking for the area of where thestation thetaxis hassles, watch Tominimise their offices). of at the otherlinesthat let youdisembark is agood reason totake Scandinavian orone quite intimidatinggetting offthebus(which take advantage of newarrivals,anditcan be of toutsanddisreputable typeswanting to Mawenzi ischaotic Rd.Thestation andfull in thetowncentre Market between Stand transport leaves fromthemainbusstation 6.30am and11.30am. clock tower. Departures fromMoshi are at p257. to waitanhourinArushatransit; see you’llneed one of though theshuttle buses, in advance. TheotheroptiontoNairobi is of which godaily,andshouldbebooked lines are Scandinavian andAkamba, both thebest toTSh32,000), Mwanza (TSh22,000 tures and9am. at7.30am(TSh14,000) usually arrives intime,aswelllater depar- that departing Moshiat6.30am(TSh12,000) DarExpress hasabus ferry toZanzibar, to DaresSalaamintimefortheafternoon is often fullybooked. Ifyou’re tryingtoget vian bus,which comesfromNairobiand inArusha,exceptthe1pmScandina- start All for luxurybus)andat1pm(TSh24,000). forordinarybusandTSh24,000 (TSh15,000 at10amparting at8.30am(TSh17,000), at 10.15am,andScandinavian Express, de- Royal Coach departingMoshi (TSh17,000) and Marangu onehour). (TSh700, oneto1½hours)day toArusha(TSh1000, the runthroughout andminibuses Buses BUS ( Tanzania (US$135)andEntebbe on Zanzibar necting KIAwithDaresSalaam(US$130), sional charters. There are con- dailyflights extension of Market St,which handlesocca- 174 an office neartheclocktower. shuttle opposite, intheTHBbuilding,and Nairobi (US$209). (via Shinyanga, US$140toMwanza)and necting KIAwithDaresSalaam,Mwanza % Except forthe lineslistedExcept following,all and toTSh17,000) To Nairobi(TSh8000 To DaresSalaam,thebestlinesare NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Marangu 275 3495;OldMoshiRd)

Davanu shuttle ( %

( % 275 1786; Kibo Rd) 275 1786;Kibo 275 5205; Rengua Rd) 275 5205;Rengua Riverside shuttle Riverside (cnr Old Moshi & Mawenzi Rds) (cnr OldMoshi&Mawenzi has daily flights con- hasdailyflights isjustnorthof the (Boma Rd) , which has Precision Air Precision isjust Impala Air

clock towerroundabout. around thecornerfromBuffaloHotel. South of the bus stand, opposite the Hindu temple. South ofthebusstand,oppositeHindu Park from Marangu Gate asfar asMandara can do aday hike inKilimanjaro National US$15 per person perday, withlunch). You waterfalls nearby (about lifeChagga and see shorter cultural walkstoexperience local treks, andcanalsohelp youfindguidesfor Most Marangu hotels organise Kilimanjaro Information lowerslopes. on themountain’s surroundings and somehikingpossibilities agreeable atmosphere, highland cool,leafy withan placeinitsown right, also apleasant if you’re trekking ontheMarangu route. It’s Moshi, andisaconvenient overnight stop Mt Kilimanjaroabout40kmnortheast of Marangu isasmalltownonthe slopes of % MARANGU the busstation. and atthebusstation. There are neartheclocktower, stands taxi TAXI &DALADALA on KLM. arrivingpassengers They alsowaittomeet and coordinated departures. withKLMflight at6pmdaily ing fromtheirMoshioffices have ashuttleto/fromKIA(US$10),depart- Riverside time(TSh2000). flight andImpala twohoursdeparting fromtheiroffices before port to/fromKIAformostof theirflights, Air Tanzania andPrecision Airhave trans- TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Scandinavian Express Royal Coach Dar Express Akamba can justarrive andboard. your ticket, sothat thenextmorningyou day before withoutyourluggage andbook When leaving the Moshi,gotothestation justtoget a taxi, awayfromthestation. for to walk,it’sworthpayingtheTSh1000 bus door. Even enough ifyourhotel isclose rather thangetting inthefrayby caught overstraight andlookforadriver there, bus standandjustdownfromthemosque. Bus officesincludethefollowing: 027 ( % (cnr Aga Khan Rd & Kaunda St)Oppositethe Rd&Kaunda (cnrAga Khan (Old MoshiRd)OppositeKCNUHotel,offthe 275 3908; cnr New & Makinga Sts)Just 275 3908;cnrNew&Makinga ( % Daladalas 275 1387; Mawenzi Rd) 275 1387;Mawenzi www.lonelyplanet.com departfrom .com; rperpersonUS$50) camping US$5,s/d/trUS$25/40/60) face, with a slightly pretentiousface, withaslightly feel, spacious of theMarangu hotels, atleast on the sur- isprobablythe mostupmarket Capricorn s camping withhotshowersUS$3,s/dhalfboard US$70/100; posted near Capricorn Hotel. posted Capricorn near of hillandsign- downasteep themainroad rondavels andchalets. It’sabout700meast tents forhire, andafew four- tosix-person andtheretained, are hot-water showers, but thegroundsare green andwellmain- of thehotel’s fullyequipped climbs. dation discountsare available ifyoujoinone sive groundsandinvitingrooms.Accommo- you reach comingfromMoshi,withexpan- with shared bathroomUS$10) per personUS$12) fireplace usefee TSh500,rondavelperpersonUS$10, chalet campingUS$8,perpersonday [email protected]; Campsite Coffee Tree BUDGET Sleeping &Eating fice isthe per guide,arranged attheparkgate). US$60 perperson forparkfees, plusUS$10 Hut (abouttwohours up,onehourdown; www.lonelyplanet.com Marangu Hotel Marangu MIDRANGE off to Capricorn Hotel. off toCapricorn road totheparkgate, shortlybefore theturn- days.It’salongthequite run-downthese placesinMarangu,shoestring butroomsare junction. green area of about700meast themain rooms clustered aroundasmallenclosed midrange prices–hasarowof small,no-frills budget hotel atheart,masqueradingbehind camping US$5,s/dUS$32/52) h about 1.5kmwest of themainjunction. dows, spaciousrooms andarestaurant. It’s wooden flooring, large old-fashioned win- is signposted near Capricorn Hotel. is signposted Capricorn near restaurant. and It’sjustoffthemainroad, withreasonabletablishment roomsanda Babylon Lodge Kibo Hotel Kibo At themainjunction,behindpostof- Bismarck HutLodge Nakara Hotel Nakara Capricorn Hotel Capricorn ) 8am-6pm). This long-standing placeisthefirst Thislong-standing hotel Marangu Internet Café Internet Marangu

( Pricesare forcamping, high % (

% (

% ( ( % 275 6591/4;www.maranguhotel.com; % 275 1308; www.kibohotel.com; 275 1308;www.kibohotel.com;

275 1315;www.babylonlodge.com; Areliable midrange es- ( %

275 6571;www.nakara-hotels 275 1309;s/d US$85/120) ( % Thisisoneof thefew TherusticKibohas 275 6513,6604;kiliman 0744-318338; rperperson The Babylon – a – TheBabylon

(per hrTSh2000; NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN onMtKilimanjaro ••Trekking The companies. not tips) are handled directly by thetrekking other camping. Guideand porter fees (but route, andUS$40 perperson forall per night US$50 per person ontheMarangu pernight costs for treks Camping onthemountain. is aUS$20rescue fee perperson per trip cost US$50perperson andthere pernight, or travellers cheques. Huts(Marangu route) per day,andmust bepaidinUSdollars, cash Park entryfees are US$60/10peradult/child Information twin summitsof KiboandMawenzi. ows andabarren lunarlandscapeto the lushrainforest, through alpinemead- rises themountain farmlands onthelowerlevels, Fromcultivatedmost magnificentsights. peak inAfricaandoneof thecontinent’s At 5896m, Mt Kilimanjaroisthehighest KILIMANJARO TREKKING ONMT walk (5km). to you’llneed gate Otherwise, (TSh300). here, there are sporadicpick-upstothepark they dropyouatthemainjunction.From Marangu InMarangu andMoshi(TSh800). thedaybetween runthroughout Minibuses &Away There Getting 3km northof themainjunction. worth theprice,andarestaurant. It’sabout rooms thatare OKbutdon’tquite seem Lonely Planet’s about trekking check onthemountain, out preparation.with theright Formore details pensive) andonlyworthdoing undertaking, ence. Yet (aswellasex- theclimbisa serious ofneed ropes ortechnical climbingexperi- walk allthewaytosummitwithout the preparation, withtheright cause, youcan each more year,andiseven attractive be- continue another2.5km. Lutheran church, leftatthefork,and stay main junction,goabout2kmtotheMamba Rongai route trailhead.Head atthe right of Marangu, more orlessenroute tothe gardensabout4kmeast amidpleasant set and arrange culturalwalksinthe area. It’s localfood(mealsUS$4toUS$6) huts’, eat where ‘Chagga inmodernised youcansleep s/d US$20/40) www.yellowpages.co.tz/jungle/index.htm; campingUS$5, A trek up‘Kili’lures hundreds of trekkers JungleLodge Banana Jungleisaprivate home, Banana Trekking inEast Africa

( % 275 6565,0744-270947;

.

175 TANZANIA TANZANIA 6605/2) counted on. park gate, qualityandavailability can’tbe some cold-weathergear attheMarangu ment. Whileyoucanhire bagsand sleeping proof cold-weather clothingandequip- your gear andbringafullrange of water- what thetimeof yearitis,sowaterproof are frequently very coldandwet,nomatter trekker dependingonthelengthof thetrek. companies allowtwotothree porters per for trekking companylistings.Mosttrekking at leastoneporter (fortheguide).See p92 aguideand independently, andyou’llneed in Marangu. and theattractive Other possibilities includethe route andsummitsvia theWestern Breach. ofthe toptofinal section the Umbwe of theMachame route, which switches near a‘short’ or‘economy’versionwho trytosell reputable operator. Alsobeware of operators and properlyequipped,going witha only beconsidered ifyouare experienced covered iniceorsnow,andtheroute should (uptheWestern Breach)section isoften rect way tothesummit.Thetop,very steep Umbwe route ascent before approaching thesummit.The hut fees.) the Marangu route,topaythe butstillneed a day’swalkapart.(Youcanalsocampon of spaced a series three ‘huts’(bunkhouses) on allexcepttheMarangu route, which has tocamp continue tothesummit.You’llneed begin onthelowerslopes,butonlythree There are atleast10trekking routes that ROUTES 176 route isbriefly described later. Marangu route for descent. The Marangu route. Treks the ontheRongai route use Shira Plateau routes descendvia theMweka dorosi route). and challenging days.Theincreasinglysix orseven popular Otherroutesacclimatisation. usually take recommended ishighly extra night tohelp returnnight package, atleastone although popular, isusuallysoldasafive-day, four- Kilimanjaro NationalPark Headquarters Kilimanjaro Weather conditionsonthemountain It’s notpermitted toclimbKilimanjaro The Trekkers onthe Machame, Umbwe and NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN onMtKilimanjaro ••Trekking islocated atthe Marangu route Marangu ismuch steeper, withamore di- Machame route Machame Shira Plateau route Shira Plateau , which isthemost park gate hasagradual

Rongai route ( h (orLon- 8am-6pm)

( % 275

the main peaks of Kiboand Mawenzi. Crater (two hours return) forgood views to Hut (2700m) youcanvisit nearbyMaundi of asection forest.through From Mandara The pathbeginsat 1980mandascends (7km, 4-5hr,700mascent) MANDARA HUT STAGE 1:MARANGU GATE TO Route Marangu and porters have particularlygood. been on more forthelonger routes, oriftheguide guide, andUS$15each fortheporters. Plan commonly fromUS$40toUS$60 forthe porters. FortheMarangu route, tipsare for thetrek, dividedamongtheguides and about 10%of amountyou’ve thetotal paid of income. As aguideline,planontipping and dependontipsastheirmajor source imal wages fromthetrekking companies, beforebe weighed off. youset their ownfoodandclothing);your bagswill upto15kg(not includingbags weighing panies isfairlycommon.Porters will carry working forsomeof thelessreputable com- ‘sharing’ofthough permitsamongguides ties, andshouldhave permitsshowing this, be registered withthenationalparkauthori- trekking company.Guidesare required to are compulsoryandare provided bythe Guides andatleastoneporter (fortheguide) GUIDES &PORTERS problems withhutbookingsandparkfees. barely adequate meals,mediocre guidesand treks. expect Ifyoucutthingstooclose, day Marangu route climb,more forlonger toparkfees forafive-ber thatUS$520goes builtin. acclimatisation trekkers, andshouldhave anextradayfor route shouldonlybedonebyexperienced way toreach thetop.Don’tfallfor this–the as aquickandcomparatively inexpensive priceasMarangu,about thesame andbilled route isoften soldbybudget operators for ataboutUS$950.TheUmbwe routes start quality tripsontheMarangu/Machame pect topayfromaroundUS$800.Better- daysontheMachameto seven route ex- cluding parkfees. Forbudget treks of six Marangu atabout US$750in- route start five-dayStandard four-night treks upthe COSTS Most guidesandporters receive onlymin- Whatever youpayforyourtrek, remem- www.lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὄὄ ὈὈὈὈὈὄὄ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ Klmnao Area Kilimanjaro www.lonelyplanet.com but the paths are easy tofollow toHorombo The terrain isundulating and steep inplaces, of nearthestart open moorland. meeting the forest and thenazoneof giantheather, parallel pathsTwo roughly run through (11km, 5-7hr,1000mascent) HOROMBO HUT STAGE 2:MANDARA HUTTO National Park Arusha (23km) Usa River(3km); To KILIMANJARO AREA Arusha ὄ ὄ Western Breach Ash Pit (5896m) Kibo Uhuru Peak Stella Point Map (p189) National Park See Arusha

Eastern Icefields Barafu 5600 Gillman's (5680m) Hut Point Mweka Hut Londorosi

(3100m) Village 5200 Sanya

(5182m) Meyer 4800 Sanya Hans Cave Juu (4700m) ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Londorosi Kibo Hut School Hut

Gate

International Airport (KIA) (4750m) Kilimanjaro 4400 La Ukoyo Shira (4394m) Jiwe Machame

Gate Machame Plateau Shira Peak Village Last Water (3962m)

Point

Route

Shira Hut T

(3840m)

h Marangu e

Village Machame Mt Kilimanjaro Kyalia

Route National Park S TANZANIANORTHERN onMtKilimanjaro ••Trekking

2miles 0 0 a

Site ofArrow Route d Glacier Hut Mt Kilimanjaro Barranco (3950m)

Umbwe (4800m) d Hut Last Water Umbwe Rock

Village

Contour Interval400metres l

Route e Point Horombo Hut Mawenzi 1:200,000 (3700m) Mawenzi (4400m) Mweka Village Western Breach ing the landmark Last Water Point anding the landmark Last more popular one to thewest. After pass- The path dividesafter Horombo, withthe (10 km,5-7hr, 1000mascent) STAGE 3:HOROMBO HUTTOKIBO night. acclimatisation Hut (3700m),agood placetospendanextra Kibo Hut

Moshi Marangu Hans MeyerPeak Mweka Uhuru Peak

Route (5896m) (5149m) 4400

3200Ὀ Ὀ

3600 4000 Rongai Peak (5149m)

Hans Meyer Route 4 km Salaam (530km) To Dares

Route Rongai Hut (2700m)

Mandara Marangu See Enlargement Nairobi (236km) To Namanga(85km); Marangu Village Maundi Crater

0 0 Route Marangu Gate(1980m) Kilimanjaro National Park Headquarters& Himo Loitokitok K ENYA Mombasa (250km) To Voi(110km); Chala Lake Taveta 12 miles To Tsavo 20 km

(99km)

177 TANZANIA TANZANIA Kibo toHorombo istwotothree hours. two hours from there toKiboHut.From about oneto1½hours, andit’sanothereasy still befrozen,making thewalkingsafer. and thesnowonpathtoUhuru Peak will thescreebecause slopeuptoGillman’s Point fromthecrater rim, and thesunrise as tosee the moststrenuous –justafter so midnight thisstage – point.It’susualtostart highest edge of thecrater rimtoUhuru Peak, Africa’s views, it’sanothertwoto2½hours alongthe Gillman’s Point(5680m),withspectacular becomes steeperanddecidedlyaslog. From slope toHans Meyer Cave (5182m),where it From KiboHutthepathzigzagsup ascree descent) (4km, 7-8½hr,1200mascent;plus14km,4½-7hr, 2200m DESCENT TOHOROMBOHUT STAGE 4:KIBOHUTTOUHURUPEAK & Wateror oneof Points). theLast water (which mustbecarriedfromHorombo and Mandara, andlacksareliable supplyof hours toKiboHut(4700m). (pointed rocks),fromwhere it’soneto1½ Ukoyo easternand rougher pathatJiweLa crossing theSaddle,itjoinswithsteeper 178 way point. gate, with Mandara Hutat aboutthe half- The final dayretraces theroute toMarangu (18km, 5-7hr, 1900mdescent) GATE STAGE 5:HOROMBOHUTTOMARANGU The return fromUhuru to Gillman’s takes Kibo Hutismore basicthanHorombo two weekstoreach fromKathmandu. metres higherthanEverest whichtrekkers BaseCamp intheNepalHimalaya, often atleast take routes offered bymostoperators. Anotherperspective onitall:UhuruPeak isseveral hundred ofthedailyaltitudegainsabove climb is aboutone-third 3000monthestandardKilimanjaro medical adviceistoincrease sleepingaltitudebyonly300mperdayonceabove 3000m–which top. Anddon’tfeel companies:standard daywiththetrekking badlyaboutinsistingonanextra atrek andthenneedtocomedownwithouthavingreached tostart the expense andeffort planning yourtrip,itwillseemarelatively insignificant savinglater onifyou’ve gonetothe do. alotwhen you’re daymayseemlike AlthoughpayinganadditionalUS$150orsoperextra dayontothe‘standard’climbitinerary,nomatteradding atleastoneextra whichroute you tantly, allowyourselfenoughtime. Ifyou’re interested inreaching thetop,seriouslyconsider die onthemountain.Comeprepared withappropriate footwearandclothing,mostimpor- because theyascendtooquicklyandsuffer fromaltitude sickness. Andevery year afew trekkers many hundreds oftrekkers reach UhuruPeak withoutmajordifficulty,manymore it don’tmake Whatever While route youchoose,remember isaseriousundertaking. thatclimbingKilimanjaro SERIOUS BUSINESS NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Arusha map of Old photocopied Arusha (TSh5000). MaCo puts outa good, widely available MAPS and thebus stations. trial areas, themarket, somebudget hotels To thewestare thecommercial andindus- andcraftshops. companies, airline offices immigration, government buildings,safari the valleyare mosthotels, thepostoffice, small NauraRiver valley.Totheeastof bythe Arusha isdivided intotwosections Orientation sha andMeru people. wheat andmaizeestates tended bytheAru- the year. Surroundingit are manycoffee, and enjoysatemperate climate throughout 1300m inaltitudeatthefootof MtMeru, Tanzania andamajor tourismcentre. vation Area. As of such, capital it’sthesafari tional Parks, andtotheNgorongoroConser- Manyara,Lake Tarangire andArushaNa- site of theRwanda genocide tribunal. attempt atregional collaboration–andthe AfricanCooperation–arevivedfor East of theTripartiteit’s theseat Commission of thiseconomic andcustomsunion.Today, Tanzania, Kenya andUganda were members ters of AfricanCommunity when theEast and fastest-growing towns.Itwasheadquar- Arusha isoneof Tanzania’s mostdeveloped % ARUSHA The townsitsinlushcountrysideat about Arusha isalsothegateway toSerengeti, 027 www.lonelyplanet.com on call24hours. Rd, Plot54)JustoffOldMoshiRd;labtestsandadoctor .co.tz; BomaRd;perhrTSh1000; Accident AirRescue &EMERGENCIES MEDICAL SERVICES Patisserie Hotel New Safari Rd, oppositeCoastalAviation. KamNet Impala Hotel ACCESSINTERNET Immigration Office IMMIGRATION OFFICE Information Tourist InformationCentre. town mapsare available free fromthe TTB www.lonelyplanet.com Simeon Rd) h hotel.com; cnrMoshi&OldRds;perhrTSh5000; 7.30pm Mon-Sat,8.30am-2pmSun) tain Explorers Connection campaign toimprove conditionsfor porters. isthe Another goodcontact with theUK-based and ifyouseeexploitative treatment, Alsogetintouch tell thetouroperator whenyougetback. operator, tell themthis is aconcern.Beaware ofwhatgoesonaroundyouduring yourtrek, ensure that theyaren’t conditions are exploited fair. andthatworking atrekking Whenselecting load ornotgettingthejobatall. isfacedwiththechoiceofcarryinganoverly loads,sothattheporter who weighporters’ heavy threadbare clothing.) Equallyconcerningare caseswhere unscrupulousguidesbribethe rangers been given byclientsattheendofatrek, sellitandthencontinueclimbingthemountainin of themore good-qualityclothingandequipmentthattheyhave enterprising totake porters among some said,it’scommonpractice from themountain’soften coldand wetconditions. (This to workwithoutpropershoesorequipment,andadequateporters protection atnight toagreefor porters toback-to-back treks withoutsufficientrest inbetween. It’salsocommonfor of manythetrekkers whosebagstheyare carrying. Duetostiffjobcompetition,it’scommon safe tosaythateven thebest-paid earnonlyapittanceincomparisonwiththe salaries porters with noguarantees ofasalarybeyondthepresent job. The workishard,rates are lowandit’s abuseandexploitationbecoming aseriousconcern. side, too,withporter comes totips,andhighertipsare expected here thanelsewhere intheregion. Yet there’s another have guidesandporters areputationKilimanjaro forbeingaggressive anddemandingwhen it FAIR PLAY Assistance Project promote fairtreatment oftheir staff. listsoftrekDa Costa in Moshi.Boththey, aswellTourism Concern,keep operators who at www.hec.org/club/properporter.htm#guidelines, or visit their pay andconditions. onporter tour operators toestablisha code ofconduct Seetheirguidelines andlobbieslocal arranges informalEnglishlanguagetraining opportunities donations toporters, 8am-11pm) Porters dependontourismthemountain fortheirlivelihood,Porters butasatrekker youcan help are whoworkonKilimanjaro localresidentsMost oftheporters whoworkfreelance, usually (perhrTSh1000; (SokoineRd;perhrTSh1000; ( % ( 250 2398,8448/51;www.impala % ( (AAR; h 250 3261;www.newsafarihotel Tourism Concern h ([email protected]) 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri; % 8am-7pm) JustoffBoma h 250 8020; Haile Selassie 250 8020;HaileSelassie 24hr)

(IMEC; www.mountainexplorers.org) h 7.30am-

(www.tourismconcern.org.uk), (www.tourismconcern.org.uk), , a nonprofit group that channels trekking clothing , anonprofitgroup thatchannelstrekking Cash shillingsanddollarsoncredit cardsatpoorrates. hotel.com; cnrMoshi&OldRds; h phones. & holidays)Domesticandinternationalcalls,card sentative, butdoesn’tissuetravellerscheques. Sokoine Rd)TheAmexrepre- rickshaw.africaonline.co.tz; TTCL TELEPHONE Standard Chartered NBC Barclays There are ATMs: several Travels Rickshaw Palace deChange Bureau Kibo Impala Hotel MONEY Moona’s Pharmacy Sokoine Rd; MasterCard. 8am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-2pmSun) (SokoineRd)Visa;alsochangestravellerscheques. (Boma Rd; (Sopa Lodges Bldg, Serengeti Rd)Visaand (SopaLodgesBldg,Serengeti NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha , whichrunsthe h which hasmounted aworldwide ( 8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to2pmSat) 8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, office % h ( 250 2398,8448/51;www.impala 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-8pmSun % ( %

(Goliondoi Rd)Takes Visa. (Mawenzi Rd) (Mawenzi 250 6655;reservation2@ 250 9800,0741-510590; ne ainl Moun- Inter national Kilimanjaro Porter (Joel Maeda St; Maeda (Joel next toHotel next h 8am-midnight)

179 TANZANIA Ὀ ὈὈὈ

TANZANIA Arusha 180 (Closed) Station Train 4 6 1 3 2 5 ARUSHA NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Arusha Nairobi (260km) Namanga (100km); Longido (80km); To Ngaramtoni(12km); Northern Parks Kolo (275km);Dodoma(470km); Monduli (40km);Babati(175km); Meserani SnakePark(25km); (8km); Regional Air(4km);Tanapa(5km); Kilombero BusStation(1km); To Shoprite&TFACentre(1km); Hotel Equator...... Hotel 7-11...... Flamingo...... Centre House Hostel...... Arusha NaazHotel...... Sunny Safaris...... Safari Makers...... Roy Safaris...... Nature Beauties...... Boma...... Natural HistoryMuseum& Hoopoe Safaris...... Clock Tower...... Arusha DeclarationMuseum...... AICC Building...... TTCL...... TTB TouristInformationCentre.. Standard Chartered&ATM...... Rickshaw Travels...... Police Station...... NCAA InformationOffice...... NBC &ATM...... Moona's Pharmacy...... Main PostOffice...... Kibo PalaceBureaudeChange..... KamNet...... Immigration Office...... Barclays &ATM...... Accident AirRescue...... INFORMATION East AfricanSafari&Touring Co.. SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Wachagga St AB Wapare St Rd Somali 11 42

Lindi St Rd Makongoro

62 Sokoine Rd Sokoine 24

Makua St 60 Colonel Middleton Rd Middleton Colonel

Kituoni50 Rd 69 Stadium

Zaramo St 68 Stadium Rd Stadium 28 63 Bondeni St Market

44

Levolosi Rd Levolosi Ethiopia Rd Ethiopia 37 Mosque 49 St 32

Kikuyu St 27 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Azimo St Mosque 36 C3 D3 F2 A3 B3 D3 E3 A2 F3 D4 E4 F2 E3 F3 B2 C2 F3 F3 E3 A3 C3 F3 B3 B3 F3 E3 F3 F2 D4 43 Mosque

Jacaranda St 16 Swahili St 30 Monument Vision Campsite...... Kitunda Guesthouse...... Impala Hotel...... Hotel Pallsons...... (see63) Hotel FortdeMoines...... Greek Club...... Crystal Club...... Colobus Club...... Via Via...... (see 20) Steers...... Spices &Herbs...... Patisserie...... McMoody's...... Lounge...... (see 34) Khan's...... Jambo CoffeeHouse...... Geekay's Take-Away...... Inn...... Everest ChineseRestaurant & Dragon Pearl...... Dolly's Patisserie...... Big Bite...... William's Inn...... Outpost...... New SafariHotel...... New ArushaHotel...... Monjes Guesthouse...... Minja's Guesthouse...... Lutheran Centre...... L'Oasis Lodge...... Le Jacaranda...... DRINKING EATING

Uhuru Pangani St Rd Arusha-Moshi Seth Benjamin Rd 55 To Ilkidin'ga 67 7 (7km) 8 10 School Rd Naura River See Enlargement Goliond

o i 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 B2 D4 B3 D4 B3 E5 F3 E4 E3 A3 B3 F3 F3 E4 B3 B3 A2 F2 D4 F2 F3 B2 B2 F3 E1 D4 D4 River CD TRANSPORT SHOPPING ZanAir...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Scandinavian Express BusOffice.... Royal CoachBus Office...... Riverside Shuttle...... Precision Air...... Mt MeruHotel...... KLM...... Impala Shuttle...... (see 31) Ethiopian Airlines...... (see 64) Davanu Shuttle...... Dar ExpressBusOffice...... Coastal Aviation...... Central BusStation&TaxiStand.... Arusha NaazRent-a-Car...... (see 25) Air Tanzania...... Air Excel...... Craft Dealers...... Aminata Boutique...... (see25)

Simeon Anglican Church

20 Rd Engira Rd 15 26 Themi To MoivaroCoffeePlantation(6km); 40

Kanisa Rd Kigongoni (8km);Tengeru(10km); www.lonelyplanet.com Serengeti Rd River Arusha NationalPark(35km); Grounds

ὈὈ ὈὈ

Sports Old Moshi Rd Moshi Old 46 Lake Duluti(12km); 22 Mulala (30km); Mkuru (45km); 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 Moshi (80km) 2 KIA (50km); 56 E4 F3 F2 E2 A3 A2 B3 F2 E2 F2 A3 A2 F3 A3 F3 F3 F3

Njiro Hill Rd Haile Selassie Rd (1.3km) Flame Tree 1 33 To 31 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Arusha www.lonelyplanet.com Moshi Rd Course 21 Kijenge Golf 65 70 73 52 45 Catholic Lutheran Church Church

12

Makongoro Makongoro

0 0 Sokoine Rd E 34

Goliondoi 18 Rd 54

Maeda St Maeda

25 St Maeda

Rd Rd Joel Joel 0 0 51

School Rd 5 23 57 58 38 19 6 Karama Lodge(1.5km) 0.1 miles 47 17 Tropical Trails(1km); 4 Some MinorRoads 53 72 9 NotDepicted 13 To MasaiCamp& 3

200 m India St 48

Old Moshi Rd Moshi Old Old Moshi Rd Moshi Old 61 Simeon Rd 66 F 71 64 35 Boma Rd 59 0.2 miles 14 39 29 41 400 m 4 6 1 3 2 5 registered tourcompanies. copies ofa‘blacklist’touroperatorsaswelllist Programs. Thereparks andlocalCulturalTourism are also the postoffice;ithasinformationonArusha,northern h and southern circuit itineraries, Zanzibarandflightcharters. and southerncircuititineraries, national flight bookings. national flightbookings. .africaonline.co.tz; SokoineRd)Fordomesticandinter- display onpostcolonial Tanzanian history, % .com) About5kmwestoftownalongtheDodomaroad. Boma Rd. on TouristInformationCentre at theTTB travellers, andcheck thecurrent ‘blacklist’ registered; get recommendations fromother tour companyyousignupwithis properly you’re bookingonarrival,besure thatany at thenorthernandwestern endsof town.If thebudget andnear hotelsthe busstation include alongBomaandGoliondoi Rds,at ridiculously lowprices.Theirmain haunts ellers byoffering andtreks themsafaris at prey onthegullibilityof newlyarrived trav- street toutsandslicktouroperators who Arusha istheworst placeinTanzania for Dangers &Annoyances Travels Rickshaw Coastal Aviation see p92 . For listingsof andtrekking safari operators, TRAVEL AGENCIES Centre Information Tourist Tanzania Board(TTB) Tourist Tanzania NationalParks Headquarters Information Office (NCAA) Authority Area Ngorongoro Conservation companions. safari whichCentre, are alsogoodspotstolookfor ( tisserie p184 ) andtheTouristInformation There are travellers atthePa- bulletinboards TOURIST INFORMATION tre building. (AICC) the ArushaInternational Conference Cen- the area theMtMeru between Hotel and Old MoshiRdnear theclocktower,andin safe to walk,especiallyover thebridge on The Sights & Activities Fri, to 1pm Sat) Just down from the TTB tourist office. tourist to1pmSat)JustdownfromtheTTB Fri, BomaRd; -crater-africa.org; kongoro Rd;adult/student US$2/1; At night, take a taxi ifyou goout.It’snot take ataxi At night, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pmSat)Justupfrom 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 250 3471,4082,8216;www.tanzaniaparks Arusha Declaration Museum ( % NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha 250 3843;[email protected]; BomaRd; ( ( % % ( % 250 0087; Boma Rd) For northern 250 0087;BomaRd)Fornorthern 250 6655;reservation2@rickshaw 254 4625;www.ngornogoro h 8am-1pm &2-5pmMon- h

( 9am-6pm) % 250 7800;Ma- (Tanapa; (Tanapa; has a

181 TANZANIA TANZANIA 40/40/50) OldMoshiRd;s/d/tw/trUS$30/ [email protected]; Boma Rd;rperpersonwithshared bathroomTSh5000) and signposted alongOldMoshi Rd. southeast of theclocktowerroundabout, all withnetsandbathroom. It’sabout500m a smallblockbuilding inthegardenbehind, andtwinsdoublesin in themainhouse, Everest restaurant. Chinese There’s atriple Old Moshi Rd andabout 1km southeast of in a leafy residential area about 500m off room TSh6000) Rd;rperpersonwithshared bath- [email protected]; Kanisa operatoroffices. post officeandmanysafari ern partof town,withineasyaccessof the All thefollowingplacesare inthegreen east- Roundabout Area Guesthouses &Hotels –ClockTower BUDGET Sleeping Boma Rd;adult/studentUS$2/1; while the 182 Serengeti Rd;dm/s/d US$18/38/49; Serengeti the postoffice inamultistorey building. to Fridayonly.It’sdiagonallyacross from are during regular businesshours Monday prior arrangements, check-in andcheckout There’s nofood,andunlessyou’ve made roomshereput youoff, are goodvalue. the drab,institutionalatmosphere doesn’t passport. day; admissionisfree, your butyou’llneed which Thurs- take placeMondaythrough building, Tribunal forRwandaattheAICC the United NationsInternational Criminal sils. Otherdiversions includethe ministrative orfort),has afew office fos- the oldGerman 300m infromOldMoshiRd. made previous arrangements. It’sabout compound gates shutat10pmunlessyou’ve shared onorder. facilities,andmeals The doubles– with quad, atripleandseveral this no-frills placehasspacious rooms–a ming pool of townontheMoshiroad;and and atTengeru (Saturday),about10kmeast 12km northof townoff theNairobiroad, Ngaramtoni (Thursday andSunday),about Outpost Centre HouseHostel Centre Everest Chinese Restaurant &Inn ChineseRestaurant Everest of theproceedings It’s possibletoobserve Lutheran Centre NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Arusha Clean, good-value rooms behind at theImpalaHotel.

Natural History Museum Natural History ( % Run by the Catholic diocese, diocese, RunbytheCatholic 254 8405;www.outposttanzania.com;

( boma %

( % 250 8857;[email protected]; h 250 2313,3027;aid

(government ad- i 9.30am-5.30pm) ) TheOutpost,

( ( % % markets 250 8419; 250 7540; swim- , in at If yahoo.com; Sokoine Rd;s/d/trUS$30/45/60; yahoo.com; with fansbut nonets. rooms withbland straightforward standard, US$30/35) ing tea, andare goodvalue fordoubles. rooms thatcome with hotwater andmorn- TSh4000) rooms andhotwater. withbasic and family-runestablishment, bathroom TSh6000/8000) about a10-minute walk of thebusstand. area inthewestern partof town,and within placesareThese inthebusy centralmarket Guesthouses &Hotels –Market Area you’ve picked out. youtoahotelor tosteer otherthantheone smooth talkers yousafaris, wantingtosell premises andshouldbeavoided. Watch for catchers companytouts)ontotheir (safari is fineandquite decentvalue,others let fly- town. Whilesomeof theaccommodation pricesarebecause amongthelowestin isn’t great, butmanytravellers here stay isaclutchstation) of cheap places.Thearea (a10-minutethe stadium walkfromthebus ofEast ColonelMiddleton Rdandnorthof Rd Area Guesthouses &Hotels –ColonelMiddleton suite garden bungalowsandarestaurant. rooms inanoldtwo-storey smallen house, the clocktowerroundabout,hasafew dorm listings, andisabitquieter. Colonel MiddletonRdtotheprevious three reasonable value. It’sontheotherside of doubles have onelarge bed)are and clean Short onambience,buttherooms (the facilities. vehicles. fast andlunch, andthehotel hires outsafari snackbarforbreak- stairs isaself-service fan andhotwater –are spotless.Down- is convenient andtherooms–allwithTV, atmosphere isuninspiring,butthelocation passed through. passed just received acoatof fresh paintwhenwe water andcleanrooms,mostof which had Hotel Fort deMoines Fort Hotel Minja’s Guesthouse Minja’s Flamingo Guesthouse Kitunda Arusha NaazHotel William’s Inn Monjes Guesthouse SimilartoMonjes,butwithshared Afew steps upinboth priceand

( %

254 8812; Kikuyu St; rTSh15,000) 254 8812;Kikuyu ( % 250 3578;s/dTSh10,000/15,000

Thisplaceoffers hot

(d TSh4000-5500)

( (r TSh12,000,s/dwithshared ( % % (r withshared bathroom www.lonelyplanet.com 257 2087;arushanaaz@ 250 7406;Pangani St; s/d i Afriendly ) Naaz’s Clean ) value. clean, noisyrooms.Thedoublesare decent multistorey buildingdirectly opposite), with (lookforthewhite At thecentralbusstation and also the base forTropicalTrails( and alsothebase p93 ). ofeast thetowncentre OldMoshi Rd, off and adorm-style hired, andthere are afew no-frills rooms play area. Tents bagscanbe andsleeping plusabarandchildren’sfrom TSh3000), burgers, Mexican dishesandmore (meals arestaurant featuring pizzas, satellite TV, overlanders, withhotshowers, pooltables, is along-timefavourite, andispopularwith just off theDodomaroad. if you’re ill.It’sabout25kmwestof Arusha, andacoupleoftaurant emergency rooms with overlanders, withhotshowers, ares- Masai Camp Masai Camping www.lonelyplanet.com L’Oasis Lodge MIDRANGE person withshared bathroomUS$7; ing US$3,bandaperpersonwithshared bathroomUS$5,rper park TSh3000, per night thereafter TSh2000) park TSh3000,pernightthereafter /SnakePark; campingfirstnightincladmissiontothesnake s/d/tr US$45/50/65) US$65/75/94; rperpersonwithshared bathroomUS$15,s/d/tr packers Moshi Rd. a restaurant in a large justoffOld house Meru Hotel. isdiagonally acrossfromMt the turn-off themain Moshi toNairobiroad; 1km off about 2kmfrom the clocktower,andabout available forthe nonbackpacker rooms. It’s discountsarein roomprices,and volunteer building nearby.Fullbreakfast isincluded facilities, includinghotwater, inaseparate also rustic‘backpacker’ doubleswithshared excellent restaurant (see p184 ). There are Internet connection,andtheLounge, an ‘corporate rooms’withtheirowntelephone/ aroundnicegardens,plus afew set houses of cosyAfrican-style rondavels andairystilt a tent inthetowncentre. and very basic,thisistheonly placetopitch .co.tz; Boma Rd;s/d US$70/95; Meserani Snake Park Snake Meserani Hotel 7-11 Hotel Vision Campsite Vision New Safari Hotel New Safari Le Jacaranda

is (

%

( % ( %

( 250 0358;www.masaicamp.com;camp- Pleasantly faded roomsand Pleasantly % 250 7089;www.loasislodge.com;back- banda 250 1261;ZaramoSt;s/dUS$25/30)

)

(camping US$3) ( Thisgoodplacehasamix % 254 4624;[email protected];

250 3261; www.newsafarihotel ( % . It’sabout3kmsouth- ai 253 8282;www.feinc.net i Small,shaded ) Masai Camp ) Completely Popular

and is nowthe mostupmarket option in the completely renovated,New Arushahas been Directly onthe clocktowerroundabout, the [email protected]; s/d fromUS$140/160; [email protected]; .karama-lodge.com; s/dUS$79/107,day rUS$40) .karama-lodge.com; newarusha.com; BomaRd;s/dUS$60/70; hot showers inroomsthenewwing. restaur ants, asmallgardenarea, andgood, aforex bureau, staff, several with efficient located, isgoodvalue, thisestablishment .moivaro.com; s/dUS$100/136; Impala Hotel TOP END access. securetaurant, parkingand24-hour Internet roomsinacentrallocation,res-has spiffy renovated andrecently reopened, thishotel and continue1.5kmfurther. the edge of town tothesignpost;turnleft Follow OldMoshiRdsouthabout2kmfrom manjaro andMeru. There’s alsoarestaurant. on stiltswithverandas lookingtowardsKili- dation isin12rusticbungalows,each raised nature tothetowncentre. close Accommo- and isagoodchoice ifyouwantproximity to side intheSuyeHillarea justsouthof town, is nestledunderthetrees onaforested hill- turn-off, fromwhereturn-off, it’s another 1km. road eastforabout 8kmtothesignposted in thesurrounding area. Follow theMoshi views. Birdingand village walksare possible all withporches, wonderfullarge bathtubsand ing nooks,arestaurant andspaciouscottages, cosy commonarea with fireplaces andread- hilltop perch about8kmoutsideArusha,a and signposted. 2km southof theArusha–Moshihighway there are surroundinggardens.It’sabout cottages, each withitsownfireplace, and manjaro climb.Accommodationis incosy covering fromjetlagor relaxing after aKili- this isanidealspottospendafew daysre- of about6kmeast coffee plantations Arusha, rooms withgardenviewsare much nicer. astheNewSafariHotel. Thestandards cently renovated, nottothesame though US$140/180/210; ais hotel.com; cnrMoshi&OldRds;s/dUS$72/83; Karama Lodge Karama Hotel Equator Hotel Moivaro CoffeePlantation New Arusha Hotel New Arusha Hotel Kigongoni NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha ) Large, reliable Large, andcentrally

( ( % % s

( %

250 2398,8448/51;www.impala 250 2799; www.kigongoni.net; s/d/tr 250 2799;www.kigongoni.net; ) ( Kigongonihasatranquil % 250 8409,3727;reservations@ 250 0359,0744-475188;www ( % is

250 7777, 250 8870; ( % ) Set amid the Set 255 3242/3;www a ) Alsore- Karama 183 i

)

TANZANIA TANZANIA Sat) no-frills setting. including numerousvegetarian dishes,ina TSh6500; northern edge of town. Lodgemusic. It’satL’Oasis ( p183 ), onthe and backdrop of lounge comfortable seating in generously large portionsagainstarelaxed andserved made andexcellentlyseasoned, and ‘Kilimanjaronachos’; freshly everything grills,pluspizzas tion of meatandseafood agoodselec- gourmet wraps,crispysalads, in Arusha,featuring homemadetagliatelle, TSh4000; and tasty mostly continental cuisine. mostlycontinental and tasty or outdoors overlooking thelushgardens– –bothindoors roundabout hascosyseating about 1.5kmsouthof theImpalaHotel TSh8000; Lounge Eating dens outback. and there’s arestaurant andexpansive gar- town centre. Roomsare of standard, ahigh 184 meet people.meet pean –are agreeable, andit’sagood spot to atmosphere –amixture of localandEuro- Thecuisine and Natural HistoryMuseum. meals from TSh1000; 4107; OldMoshiRd) 8419; OldMoshiRd) TSh4500. TSh4500. and agood-value plate of thedayfor about There’szanian setting. análacarte menu, ternet café; thesimilar meals, bakedsoup, light goods and anIn- ones include the Popular and TSh4000. TSh1500 between pizza andotherWestern-style fastfoodfor areas.seating h try are Twoto toTSh10,000. meals fromTSh5000 restaurants;Chinese they’re allgood,with your fillof Tanzanian fare. you’veEthiopian cuisine,justincase had late) Flame Tree Big Bite Jambo CoffeeHouse Spices &Herbs Via Via Via There are dozensof placesforburgers, There’s competitionamongArusha’s stiff Via Via is set inthegardensbehind Viaisset until 10pm Thislow-key placehasthebestcuisine NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Arusha

h h Everest Chinese Restaurant &Inn ChineseRestaurant Everest h ( %

(meals fromTSh3500;

closed Sunevenings) lunch &dinner) closed Tue) 250 7089;mealsTSh5500-6500; (cnr Somali Rd & Swahili St;mealsfrom (cnr SomaliRd&Swahili ) Europeancaféchic inaTan-

( % andthe , both with pleasant garden , bothwithpleasant

( h % 0744-370474; Njiro Hill; mealsfrom 0744-370474; NjiroHill; Patisserie Patisserie DeliciousIndianfood, 7am-6pm)

250 2279,MoshiRd;mealsfrom (Boma Rd;mealsTSh4000-6000; Theplacetocomefor Dolly’s Patisserie Dolly’s Patisserie Thispopularplace Dragon Pearl

h , which alsohas (Sokoine Rd; snacks& 10am-10pm Mon- h

( ( (Sokoine % % 10am- 254 250 Khan’s h afternoon, pizza,andalively sportsbar. on weekend free evenings; movies onSunday Sun) doma rd; Tengeru market north of townoff theNairobi road,andthe to ArushaNaazHotel, hastextiles. brashest nightclub. grounds of theNaturalHistoryMuseum. it’sinthe music andtraditionaldanceevents; a drink,andtofindoutaboutupcoming Excel, Regional Air). ThereExcel, are also daily engeti National Park Aviation, (Coastal Air andotherairstrips inSer-Air), Seronera sion Air, AirTanzania), Nairobi(Precision Aviation, Coastal (ZanAir, Zanzibar Preci- There are toDaresSalaamand dailyflights AIR &Away There Getting Aminata Boutique town, signposted alongtheDodomaroad. There are large several craftstores westof of craftdealers. Hard bargaining isrequired. Maeda Joel The smallalleyjustoff Stisfull Shopping Sat) Via Via &Entertainment Drinking including gelato andgourmetcoffee. cravingsthing tosatisfy forthingsWestern, Sat) (Sokoine Rd; Rd; town alongtheMoshi road. Away Centre grilled, skewered meat,andsalads. withahugebarbecue bynight, spread of an auto-spares store bydayandapopular chain, burgers; andabranch of theSouthAfrican Mon &Thu) ramtoni market Colobus Club Colourful localmarkets includethe Crystal Club Club Greek Self-caterers shouldheadto Self-caterers For more localflavour, try Just outof townnexttoShoprite is Dancinguntillate. , withplates of rice, h , about2kmwestof townatTFA Centre. 10pm-dawn Fri-Sat)

(India St;mealsfromTSh1000;

(Dodoma rd 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-4pmSun) (Mosque St; mixed grill TSh4500; (Mosque St;mixed grill Steers (Boma Rd) h Apopularexpathang-out,especially h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pmSat,9am-1pm 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, (cnr Old Moshi & Serengeti Rds; (cnrOldMoshi&Serengeti

(Joel Maeda St) Maeda (Joel 11am-10pm Tue-Sun) (Seth Benjamin Rd; (Seth

isoneof thebestspotsfor ), ashoppingmallwithevery-

( (Old MoshiRd;admissionTSh3000; h (

h (Sokoine Rd) Arusha’sloudestand Sat) Thu &Sun) , about10kmeast of www.lonelyplanet.com . ugali , intheentryway h h , about12km and sauce; or andsauce; , withmostly h 7.30am-6pm Mon- Geekay’s Take- Geekay’s from 11pm Fri & from 11pmFri Shoprite ; from 5.30pm McMoody’s h closed

Nga- (Do- TFA ),

airtz.com; Boma Rd) Also handles Kenya Airwaysbookings. BomaRd)AlsohandlesKenya airtz.com; Boma Rd) .com; NairobiRd) ethair.co.tz; BomaRd) Coastal Aviation Air Tanzania Air Excel (US$150). Arusha–Seronera (US$130), Arusha–Mwanza(US$140)and Air. Sampleprices:Arusha–DaresSalaam ing intoKIAincludeKLMandEthiopian ing yourticket. International airlinesfly- verify thedeparture pointwhenbuy- 8km fromtownalongtheDodomaroad; Arushaairport, whileothershighway, use themain MoshiandArushaoff between jaro International Airport,abouthalfway Kiliman- use Regional Air).Someflights National Parks Aviation, (Coastal AirExcel, Manyarayanga), andLake andTarangire toMwanza(Precisionflights Air,viaShin- www.lonelyplanet.com the driver todrop youin frontof the Mt avoid altogether thebus station by asking on thebus),youcan tostay it makes sense budget-hotel area downtown,in which case (andunlessyou’restation in the staying get yourbearings. the lobbyof Hotel 7-11acrossthestreet to –duckinto arriving atthecentral station or– if the first forataxi, time,head straight Ifyou’redeals atthestations. arrivingfor your luggage, anddon’tnegotiate anysafari lar hauntsforflycatchers andtouts.Watch arethe centralbusstation, chaotic andpopu- other pointswestandsouth.Both, especially Shop and toMwanza,Babati rite, for buses of opposite townalongtheDodomaroad, about 2kmwest the Kilomberobusstation, andotherpointsnorth andeast; basa to DaresSalaam,Tanga, Nairobi, Mom- nearthemarket, tral busstation forbuses thecen- Arusha hastwomainbusstations: BUS ZanAir Air Regional Air Precision KLM Ethiopian Airlines online.com; GoliondoiRd) Boma Rd) In Bushbuck Safaris building. In BushbuckSafaris Boma Rd) Airline officesincludethefollowing: If you’re arrivingat thecentralbus ( % ( % ( 250 8062/3; [email protected]; 250 8062/3;[email protected]; % 024-223 3670;www.zanair.com; MoshiRd) ( ( ( 254 8429,2501597;reservations@airexcel % % % ( 250 3201/3; www.airtanzania.com; 250 3201/3;www.airtanzania.com; 250 4477,2541;www.airkenya 250 2818,2836;www.precision % ( % 250 0087;[email protected]; 250 6167,7512;tsm-a@ across fromGoldenRoseHotel. 9am (ordinaryTSh12,000).TheArushaofficeis diagonally ferry docks. There are alsobusesat7.30am,8.15amand here, it’sTSh1500andabout10minutesinataxitothe From terminates atitsofficesinthecitycentre nearKisutu. past UbungobusstationinDaresSalaamuntil thebus to Zanzibar. Ifyou’re tryingto do this,stayonthebus inDaresSalaamtime tocatchthe4pmferry luck, arrive Arushaat6am(luxuryTSh14,000)and,with Buses depart Coach booking officebehindGoldenRoseHotel. Coach booking fromtheRoyal at9am(TSh17,000) dleton Rd)Departures Kampala (Uganda) Kampala TSh15,000/24,000) and 11am(luxuryTSh24,000). or Mwanza,luxuryTSh24,000), 8.30am(ordinary/luxury at 7am(comingfromKampala Rd)Departures & Kituoni Royal Coach Dar Express the following: tions completely. Themainlinesinclude fices, thereby avoiding themainbussta- depart fromandarrive attheirownof- The mainlinesto/fromDaresSalaam all Dar esSalaam via Chalinze. thelonger Tarmacto Dodomauses route change vehicles asmosttransport atBabati, (about 10hours), to butusuallyyou’llneed andontoDodoma Arusha toKolo,Kondoa 1pm. There are occasionaldirect from buses to sixhours), 6.30amand departingbetween four (TSh4000, ArushaandBabati between runthreeMtei tofourtimesdaily linebuses Babati, Kolo,Kondoa&Dodoma pack). (unless youhave anextraordinarilylarge thereyou mayhear, are fees noluggage drop youdirectly atyourbus.Despite what andaskthedriver tothestation to a taxi on yourbus.Forpredawn departures, take rive withyourluggage youcanget straight before, sothatinthemorningwhenyou ar- best thingtodoisbookyourticket theday WhendepartingArusha,the the station. and thesceneismuch lesshecticthanat more andacrossthestreet, thanTSh2000) atthehotel (farestaxis totownshouldn’tbe Salaam andMoshipassbyhere. There are Meru comingfromDares Hotel. Allbuses see also see p259 . Arusha andKampala 17hours); (TSh35,000, Scandinavian dailybetween Express goes Scandinavian Express NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha ( ( % % 0744-946155; Colonel Middleton Rd) 0744-946155; ColonelMiddleton 250 7959,0744-366121; ColonelMid- ( % 250 0153;cnrSomaliSt

185 TANZANIA TANZANIA TSh30,000, moreTSh30,000, atnight. arriving passengers. pala Hotels respectively. Theyalsowait for depart at 6pmfromtheMt Meru andIm- tures andarrivals.They costUS$10,and bus toKIAcoordinated withKLMdepar- in theairportarrivals area. other direction, look for theairlines’buses before departure. scheduled flight Inthe abouttwohoursdeparting fromtheir offices shuttles tobothairportsfortheirpassengers, Both AirTanzania andPrecision Airhave AIRPORT TO/FROM KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL Around Getting junction. transfer atSegera take anyDaresSalaambusand Otherwise, hours). seven 8.30am and11.30am(TSh9000, Tashriff departsArushadailyforTanga at Tanga For more onthisroute see p257 . Nairobi (Kenya) Moshi andArusha). Nairobi shuttles( p257 between , TSh4000 andsafer totake oneoffortable theArusha– onehour). It’spricier,moreTSh1500, com- ArushaandMoshi (aboutday between the runthroughout andminibuses Buses Moshi days. and thetripcantake several western loop,buttheroadisinbadshape, Shinyanga inalarge andvery rugged south- departing Arushaabout3.30pm. US$20 foraKenyan 20hours), transitvisa, plus via NairobiandMusoma(TSh32,000 Scandinavian Express gotoMwanza buses Musoma &Mwanza 16hours).ing Arushaat5.30am(TSh27,500, Hood linerunsadailybustoMbeya,depart- Mbeya there toLushoto. Mombo, andthenget localtransportfrom take anexpress busheadingforDarasfar six hours). It’sfaster butmore expensive to Fasaha departs dailyat6.30am(TSh8000, Lushoto 186 Taxis fromtown toKIA charge about Riverside andImpala shuttleshave adaily The otheroptionistogoviaSingidaand NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••AroundArusha Ilkiding’a, 7km north ofArusha. 7kmnorth Ilkiding’a, ence thetraditionalculture of theArushapeoplearound andthe chancetoexperi- ‘culturalhike’), to athree-day cattle market at Longido, about 80km north ofArusha. atLongido, about 80kmnorth cattle market 10 hours return fromthe mainroad), andvisita Maasai Longido Longido best son here, where youcanarrangetogo canoeing(perper- sorts programof andthere’s anecotourism of aforest reserve, part of Tengeru It’s Saturdaymarket). (knownfor itscolourful 11km eastofArusha,just offthemainroadnearvillage Duluti Lake Ilkiding’a more people),andincludethefollowing: full-day programwithlunch (lessfortwo or perpersonTSh15,000/25,000 forahalf-/ Toursgo withisauthorised.) average about tobesure theoneyou withtheTTB (Check office onstand-by each morning. the TTB totown,guidesusuallywaitat grams close ones;forNg’iresidistant andotherpro- tions. Bookadayinadvancefor the more can alsotell youthebesttransportconnec- ( Tourist InformationOffice p181 ), which culture. Allcanbebooked theTTB through provide anopportunitytoexperience local CulturalTourismPrograms thatganised villages outsideArushahaveSeveral or- Programs Tourism Cultural AROUND ARUSHA toTSh2000. TSh1000 ern endof Makongoro Rd.Townrides cost near NewArushaHotel, andatthe east- southern sideof theclocktowerroundabout oppositestation, MtMeru Hotel, onthe There are aroundthecentral stands taxi bus TAXI SokoineRd) yahoo.com; Arusha NaazRent-a-Car CAR HIRE before departures. scheduled fight about1½hours sha airport,departingAICC buildingtoAru- attheAICC from itsoffice airstrip. Taxis fromtowncharge TSh10,000. where you’llhave towalkabout1.5kmthe road candropyouatthejunction,from Any TO/FROM ARUSHA AIRPORT 4WD) include120free kilometres perday. Hotel; rates (fromUS$80to$120perdayfor Precision Airsometimesrunsashuttle US$20) or take guided nature walks around the lake. The guided nature walks aroundthelake. US$20) ortake contact for this is Green Footprint Adventures forthis isGreen ( Footprint contact p92 ). daladala Hike tothetopofMtLongido (2629m;eightto Hike Come here for walking (fromhalf-daystrolls Comehere forwalking This small and tranquil crater lake liesabout Thissmallandtranquil craterlake headingoutalongtheDodoma Based atArushaNaaz Based

( % www.lonelyplanet.com 250 2087;arushanaaz@ signposted themainhighway. off grounds runningalongtheUsa River, and access.It’sinshaded one withwheelchair cottages’, each withtheirownfireplaces and the gardens.There are alsotwoprivate ‘river fully renovated orin colonial-erafarmhouse rusticroomseitherinabeauti- comfortably heartyfamily-stylecuisineand ble service, has genteel old-worldambience,impecca- of atmospheric,upmarket lodges. Arusha NationalPark, andforitshandful of Arusha,isof interest foritsproximity to about 20km east Moshi–Arusha highway, This tiny,nondescripttownalongthe % Usa River about a1.5kmwalktothelake. you attheTengeru junction,fromwhere it’s dala Via publictransport,have anybusor Ng’iresi walks. cooperative, andsomeshort completely bywomen.Itinvolvesvisitstoalocalwomen’s Mulala Mkuru www.lonelyplanet.com hippos andwater birds. fringed reedsBabati, bytall and home to bati tothe southwestis the tranquilLake 175km southwest of Arusha. Flanking Ba- infertilebati, which isset countryside about for climbsisthe lively market town of Ba- traditional lifestyle. point Thejumping-off whostill followaseminomadic Barabaig, is hometonumerous tribes,includingthe manjaro orMtMeru. The surrounding area done atafraction of thecost of MtKili- reach, makes arewarding trek thatcanbe and,whiletime-consumingtomountain of Arusha. It’sTanzania’s fourth-highest steeply rises from theplainsabout200kmsouthwest (3417m) Hanang Mt Volcanic % Mt Hanang&Babati cottageUS$240; trees.com; s/dUS$125/150,river organise things. timeto water,andallowextra you, includingdrinking with everything (about twohourstothesummit).Bring days,orclimbnearbyMtOlDoinyoLandaree day toseveral rangingfromahalf camelsafaris where youcantake Gate, enjoy somewalking. housesand seeMaasai projects, can visitlocalirrigation Rivertrees CountryInn Rivertrees 027 027 along the Moshi–Arusha highway drop alongtheMoshi–Arushahighway AcamelcampnearArushaNationalPark’s Momela About 30km northeast of Arusha,andimplemented About30kmnortheast A village about 7km north ofArushawhere you Avillageabout7kmnorth ( % 255 3894;www.river dala-

i )

[email protected]; s/dTSh12,000/15,000) [email protected]; Planet’s side. It’sdescribedinmore inLonely detail Katesh village southern onthemountain’s easiest istheJorodomroute, which near starts mit. Themostpopularandlogisticallythe r TSh10,000) TSh5000) bathroom shared bathroomTSh2000/3000,dwithprivate the area atalater date. While someof the peoples, who movedBantu-speaking into more recent ones, were donebyvarious the paintings,particularly someofsay the group also renowned foritsrock art.Others related linguisticallyto South Africa’sSan,a made bytheSandawe, whoare distantly their age. theywere Onetheory maintains with littleknown about eithertheirartistsor the paintingsremains shrouded inmystery, African continent. Thehistoryof mostof looked collectionsof ancientrockartonthe one of themostimpressive andmostover- The tinyvillage of Kololiesatthecentre of Kolo RockPaintings Paa roomsandhotwater;contained tain, try tain, andthemainvillageBabati nearthemoun- InKatesh,petrol station. 75kmsouthwestof TSh2000/3000) stand; and stand; d with private bathroomTSh4000) d withprivate can helpyoufindareliable guide. the LutheranMissionincentre of town office. InKatesh, Kabwogi’s near Restaurant checked or inwithKahembe’s GuestHouse onlygowithaguideafterIn Babati, you’ve or toutspretending tobefromKahembe’s. and fake andKatesh, guidesinbothBabati direction.in theright Watch outfortouts you arrive andyou’llbepointed inBabati when just askforKahembe’s GuestHouse trek. Ifyou’re organising thingsonthe spot, inKateshguesthouse before andafter the ple mealsandaccommodationinabasic climb fromArusha,includingaguide,sim- per person perdayforathree-day Hanang andcharging inBabati, based aboutUS$40 hembe’s Trekking &CulturalSafaris( p92 ), most travellers Ka- organise climbsthrough possible toclimbHanang independently, Modern GuestHouse NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN ••AroundArusha There are routes toHanang’s several sum- Guesthouses in Babati include inBabati Guesthouses

( % orthemore basic 253 1111;swithshared bathroomTSh3000, Trekking inEast Africa Colt GuestHouse , onthemainroadopposite the Dodoma Transport Hotel Dodoma Transport .

( % 253 1088,1377;kahembe

, neartheoldbus ( % Hanang View 253 0030;s/dwith , withself-

. Whileit’s ( % Kahembe’s Kahembe’s Motel Paa- Motel 253 1089;

187

(s/d TANZANIA TANZANIA the south. also bereached fromDodoma,180km to about6amand10am. Kolocanbetween toArusha,departing fromKondoa buses in theotherdirection, there are daily several reaching Koloaboutsixhours later. Going departing Arushaabout6amor7am, and viaKolo, ArushaandKondoa between natively, there’s atleastonedirect busdaily (20kmfurther).Alter-and ontoKondoa there dailytoKolo are smallbuses several connections are fromwhere fromBabati, 275km southwestof Arusha. Thebestbus the busstand. best of which is where there are the numerousguesthouses, est overnight isKondoa,20kmsouth, base the clos- to befullyequipped.Otherwise, however, andno rhinosduetopoaching. however, Therespringers are andbuffaloes. nolions, elephants, klip- , giraffes, probably see scale thanintheother northernparks.You’ll ally quite rewarding, onasmaller though animal species,and wildlife viewingisusu- variety of vegetation zonessupporting many andMtMeru.Momela Lakes Theparkhasa Its mainfeatures are NgurdotoCrater, the most beautifulandtopographically varied. parks, Arusha NationalPark isoneof its it’soneofAlthough Tanzania’s smallest % NATIONALARUSHA PARK TSh2000) (US$60 perdayplustransportcosts). Trekking &CulturalSafaris( p92 ) inBabati (for budget excursions) Kahembe’s through Arusha-based touroperators,through and kilometres of thefirst sites. vehicle (4WD),youcandrive towithinafew Kolo toreach thepaintings.Withyourown towalkabouttwo2½hoursneed from partment of AntiquitiesinKolo. You’ll then withtheDe- guide andapermit(TSh4000) more thanafew hundred years old. others are much more recent, probablynot paintings date backmore than3000years, 188 wide varietyof wader birds.The lakes are they are shallow and alkaline andattract a bird-watching. Like manyinthe RiftValley, Kolo isabout100kmsouthof and Babati The There’s abasic You canalsoorganise tripstoKolo To visit,you’llfirst toarrange need a 027 NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••ArushaNationalPark Momela Lakes near Kolo,forwhich you’llneed New Planet are particularly goodfor camping ground

(r TSh6500)

(camping , near , near r per person full board plus safaris US$295) r perpersonfullboard plus safaris adult/child US$20/5) plus parkfees, plusperpersonparkcanoeingfee cashonly 128) s/d/tr halfboard US$68/98/ -safari-intl.com/momella.html; ters withkitchen facilities. are alsotworesthouses nearpark headquar- NgurdotoGate.shower), andonenear There near MomelaGate (includingonewitha The parkhasfourordinarycampsites, three Sleeping headquarters Gate, about10kmfromthemainroad. huts onMtMeru costUS$20. for allwalks)costUS$15perday,andthe treks onMtMeru. Armedrangers (required US$20 rescue fee perperson pertripfor day. Forcampingfees see p113 . There’s a Entry fees are US$35/10peradult/child per Information preciate thewildlife anddoawalkingsafari. ortwotoap- day, it’sbetter toallowanight row stripof land. whereeven theyare byanar- onlyseparated quite distinctlyfromonelake toanother, them different colours. Birdlife alsovaries a different typeof algalgrowth,which gives varying mineralcontent, each lake supports fed byunderground streams; duetotheir or petrol. north of MomelaGate. days. It’s on theedge of the parkabout1.5km take inbothMeru andKilimanjaro onclear lawns frequented andviewsthat bygiraffes, room décor,awonderful locationonlarge an upscaleambience, creative ‘modernretro’ safaris Green FootprintAdventures ( p92 ) does permitted todescendthecrater floor). of theNgurdotoCraterit’snot rim(though park, andthere isawalkingtrailalong part ing ispermitted ontheMtMeru sideof the on thesoutheastern edge of thepark.Walk- There isanotherentranceatNgurdotoGate, about 14kmfurtherinnearMomelaGate. guides andporters toclimbMtMeru –is andforarranging resthouse reservations, formakingcamp-sitethe maincontact or Hatari Lodge Hatari The mainentranceisatNgongongare much ofWhile youcansee theparkina There’s nowhere intheparktobuyfood Momella Wildlife Lodge This long-standing establishment isjust establishment This long-standing

(per personUS$40,plustransfer fromTengeru US$10,

(

% ( % ontheMomelaLakes. 255 3995; 255 3456/7; www.hatarilodge.com; 255 3456/7;www.hatarilodge.com;

( www.lonelyplanet.com % h 250 6423/6; www.lions 6.30am-6.30pm) Hatari has canoe Park – ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ rsa ainl Park National Arusha www.lonelyplanet.com Colobus Mountain Lodge Ngurdoto Lodge per half/fullday. driver forvisitingthepark for US$30/60 and thelodge canprovide avehicle and able cottages are aroundmodestgardens, set the roadfromMomelaGate. Small,service- north of Hatari Lodge, andabout1.5kmoff area, reasonable budget-style roomsand a restaurant. with bougainvillea-dotted grounds, acamping gare Gate, walkfromNgongon- US$5, s/dUS$35/50) Atwo-minute the roadto Ngongongare Gate. ofthemainhighwayalong It’sabout7kmnorth and Meru. bungalows setonalarge lawnwithviewsofKilimanjaro lodge withattentivehosts andfivespaciousdouble habari.co.tz; rperpersonfullboardUS$150)Anupmarket Rhino Point (4566m) Summit ARUSHA NATIONALPARK Meru Other recommendations: Little Meru (3820m) Ash Cone ( % Meru Summit

3000 Momela Route 255 3701;ngurdoto-lodge@

Jekuk ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὅ

(4566m) 3200

M

o

( u m

mia e %

l Kitoto 3000

a

3400

3200

3800

3600

Hill 4000

4200 3400 R

Topela 4400 Mbogo o 255 3632;camping

Rhino Point u

t

e

River Clearing Itikoni

3400 Tululusia M

e Hill r Ash Cone u 3400 C See Enlargement Rivertrees CountryInn(10km); r a 3200

To NgurdotoLodge(2km); t Usa RiverVillage(10km); er 3000 (3570m) Saddle Hut Njeku Camp Little Meru(3820m) (disused) Mgongo Wa Arusha (30km)

2800 TANZANIANORTHERN ••ArushaNationalPark Tembo Falls Park Headquarters ing upagainatMomela Gate. where theroaddivides, withbothforksjoin- Gate, where youpayyour fees. Thisisalso From here, it’sabout10km toNgongongare national parksignboard,where youturnleft. ArushaandMoshiuntilyou reachtween the 35km fromArusha. Take themainroadbe- The gate to ArushaNationalPark isabout &Around There Getting and Moshi, and get at Usa off River village, Arusha take any bus between Otherwise, hours from ArushatoNgongongare Gate). can drop youattheparkgate 1½ (TSh2000, at 1pm and Ngare Nanyukiat 7am,that north of MomelaGate), departingArusha Arusha andNgarebetween Nanyuki(10km Momela Viewpoint Momela Topela Mbogo 2600 ὅ Momella Gate Njeku Wildlife

(15km); OlDoinyoLandaree(15km)

Via publictransport, there’s adailybus Lodge Outer To NgareNanyuki(8km);Mkuru

Kitoto Rd Hill

(disused) Kitoto Camp Jekukumia Lendoiya 2400

Swamp

Mom Miriakamba Hut Lengasa Lengasa

Ngare Swamp (grassland) Mountain Lodge Lokie Serengeti (2514m) Ndogo

Ngurdoto ela Colobus 0 0 ὅ ὅ ὅ National Park Nanyuki

Route Momela Ngongongare

Park Rd Arusha 2200

River Ngongongare River Hill ὅὅ Lake Longil Contour Interval200metres Gate

Camp

River Route Site

Lake Jembamba Park Rd Park Clearing 4km 2miles 0 0 Itikoni Chai River Senato Pools 2000 Maji Ya 1:80,000 Kinandia Swamp Tululusia Ngurdoto Hill Gate Momela Lakes Maio Falls

Gate (1500m) 1800 Camp Sites Momela Ngurdoto Crater Arch Fig Tree Waterfall ὅὅ ὅὅ 2 miles

Headquarters Outer 4 km Resthouses 1600 Park

Lodge Hatari Rd

189 TANZANIA TANZANIA still need topay hutfees. still need camp, whetherbychoice ornecessity,you’ll ifyou tocarryatent, even a goodidea though often season fillup.Forthisreason,high it’s basis,andduring the first-come, first-served operate ona allthebunkhouses However, blockwithindividualfour-bedhouse rooms. Hut there’s alsoanewlyconstructed bunk- spaced forathree- orfour-day trek. AtSaddle akamba andSaddleHuts),conveniently Lonely Planet’s bining Stages 3and4.Formore see details, trekkers often doitinthree daysby com- ably infourdays(three although nights), crater.shoe Theroute canbedonecomfort- summit alongthenorthernarmof thehorse- tothe ern sideof andgoes themountain Meru. atMomelagate Itstarts ontheeast- The Momelaroute istheonlyroute up Information ous trek isimportant. andacclimatisation crater rim.As withKilimanjaro,it’saseri- exhilarating walkalongtheknife edge of the lower slopes,followedbyadramaticand grassland andlushforest onthemountain’s A trek tothesummittakes youthrough Africa’s mostscenicandrewarding climbs. volcanicconewith oneof spectacular East frequently overlooked bytrekkers, itisa pletely overshadowed byKilimanjaro and inTanzania.mountain com- Although At 4566m, Mt Meru isthesecond-highest MERU TREKKING ONMT and fromaboutUS$50foradaysafari. to doublethisforanall-inclusive daysafari, US$100 pervehicle foradropatthegate, up viewing drives fortheirguestsfromabout Ngare Nanyukivillage. theparkto sporadic pick-upsrunthrough 1km eastof theparkjunction,fromwhere 190 p188 ). Alsoaddin thecosts of food (which are park-entrance, hutand guidefees (see The main costsforan independent trek you cando thingsquite easily onyourown. range fromabout US$500toUS$650. p92 forafour-day forlistings.Rates trip treks alsoorganise treks onMtMeru. See Most companies that organise Kilimanjaro COSTS There are (Miri- twolarge bunkhouses Most of the lodges arrange wildlife- Organised treks are notobligatory, and NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN onMtMeru ••Trekking Trekking inEast Africa . Hut (2514m). The second, shorter option Hut (2514m). Thesecond, floor andthen steeply upto Miriakamba theforestgoing through towards thecrater Gate. Themore interesting oneis atrack There’s achoice of tworoutes from Momela (10km, 4-5hr,1000mascent) MIRIAKAMBA HUT STAGE 1:MOMELAGATE TO Momela Route average perporter. aboutTSh5000 per group.Porter trek tips forastandard perday summit, planonaboutTSh10,000 a goodguidewhohasgonewithyou tothe before reaching thetop.As aguideline,for trekkers themselves are forcedtobailout stages of theclimb,withresult that the guides rushingtheirclientson the early all-too-frequent reports of poorlymotivated propriate pacetothesummit.We’ve heard is conditionalonhimguidingyou atanap- the guidethatyou’lltip,but pay ment as partof yourfixed costs.Make itclearto to thesummit,soit’sworthcalculating tips guide haslittleextraincentive totake you park forguiding.Infact,without tipsa and get noadditionalpayment from the fortheirworkasrangers,monthly salary not includingtheirownfoodandclothing. Porters upto15kg, willcarrypacksweighing and hutfees forporters pernight). (TSh800 also have topaypark-entrance(TSh1500) and given totheporters after thetrip.You with onlyaguide. Thefee ispaid atthegate porter mosttrekkers perday,though goup also available atMomelaGate forUS$5per reasonable range of yourguide. within the route),tostay soit’sadvisable theyknow to showyoutheway(although orelephants,ratherthan park’s buffaloes someof youmeet the to assistyouincase Meru are is armedrangers purpose whose Unlikehimself. onKilimanjaro, guideson paid totheparkratherthanguide at MomelaGate. TheUS$15dailyfee is A guideismandatoryandcanbearranged GUIDES &PORTERS making arrangements before. thenight porters cantake acoupleof hours, it’sworth paying parkfees andarrangingguides thepark)andtransport.Asto stockupnear you shouldget inArusha,asthere’s nowhere Guides onMtMeru receive afixed are optional,are Porters, services whose www.lonelyplanet.com offer impressive viewsof Meru’s Ash Cone. Point,bothof which(3820m) andtoRhino side tripsfromSaddleHuttoLittleMeru ally dry)toSaddleHut(3570m).There are clearings andover stream several beds(usu- someopengrassy mit. Itcontinuesthrough belowthesum- crater anduptothecliffs from where there are goodviewsintothe and MgongoWaTembo (Elephant Ridge), to reach Swamp) TopelaMbogo(Buffalo thetrees gladesbetween pleasant up through From Miriakambathepathclimbssteeply (4km, 2-3hr,1050mascent) SADDLE HUT STAGE 2:MIRIAKAMBA HUTTO some persuading totake theforest route. down theshorter route, anditmayrequire route. Someguidesprefer togoupand Miriakamba, andmakes agooddescent thegrasslandto climbs graduallythrough www.lonelyplanet.com Gate (1½ to2½hours). route down the ridge directly toMomela forest (2½to three hours), ortake ashorter akamba, you caneitherreturn the through Miriakamba (1½to2½hours). FromMiri- From SaddleHut, retrace theStage 2route to (9km, 3-5½hr,2000mdescent) STAGE 4:SADDLEHUTTOMOMELA GATE from SaddleHut. impressive Point,aboutanhour fromRhino in thedark, views atdawnare justas you’re notkeen onattempting thissection to fourhours toreach Meru summit. and bare rockpatches. Continueforthree around theedge of therimover ashscree againtoclimb steeply thenrises slightly Pointthepathdrops of bones.FromRhino Pointismarked byacairnandpile Rhino before givingwaytobare rockandash. a flatarea, bushes upthrough thensteeply ofthis section theroute, sotake care. iceandsnow canoccuron the rainyseason, of trekking anywhere Africa. During inEast the mostdramaticandexhilarating sections of theinnercrater, cliffs isoneofthe sheer theoutertween slopesof and themountain This stage, alongavery narrowridge be- (5km, 4-5hr,1000mascent;5km,2-3hr,descent) & DESCENT STAGE 3:SADDLEHUTTOMERUSUMMIT If the sunrise isyourmaininterestIf thesunrise but across From SaddleHut,thepathgoes NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark Manyara ••Lake Mbu village. at thenortherntipof theparknearMtoWa the roadleadingtoparkgate. ontheescarpmentalong base, microlight them,or directlyone hour)through atthe flying(US$125/255for20minutes/light gram (see p192 ). Youcanalsoarrange micro- the MtoWaMbuCulturalTourism Pro- outside theparkcanbeorganised through two ormore people. Budget culturalwalks dinner underthestars. Prices decrease with son plusparkfees, includingapredrive bush where youcandothis)forUS$130perper- the park(Manyara istheonlynorthernpark forest hikes, drives aswellnight inside village bikingand walks,mountain ganises other northernparks,sobringbinoculars. are scarceatManyara incomparisonwiththe 10 double The parkhastwoordinarycampsites, about Sleeping gate and day. Forcampingfees see p113 . Thepark Entry fees are US$35/10peradult/child per Information in parkborderareas. magnificent RiftValley escarpment,orcycle flyingabovego microlight thelake andthe nally, there’s thechance drives, todonight western escarpmentof theRiftValley. Fi- borderedsetting, tothewestbydramatic other places.There’s alsothepark’sstriking range here atcloser thanatmost observe and itsabundanceof hippos,which youcan perb birdlife, itselusive tree-climbing lions rated ManyaraLake NationalPark are itssu- Among theattractionsof theoften under- % LAKE MANYARA NATIONAL PARK www.kirurumu.com; s/dfull boardUS$165/250) www.kirurumu.com; Kirurumu LuxuryTented Camp Kirurumu LODGES & TENTEDCAMPS low-key tothe natural ambience, closeness sites inthepark.The main gate. There are alsothree special camp per person), and a studenthostel, allnearthe cooking area and,with luck,hotwater. stock upinArusha. to you’llneed in MtoWaMbu; otherwise Green FootprintAdventures ( p92 ) or- Up-close wildlife-viewingUp-close opportunities Basic foodstuffs are foodstuffs availableBasic atthemarket 027 park headquarters bandas withbathroom(US$20 bandas

( ( % % have bedding,a 250 7011, 7541; 253 9112/45) Agenteel,

191 are TANZANIA TANZANIA from themainroad. overlooking theRiftValley, andabout2km southwest of Kirurumu ontheescarpment withalltheamenities.It’s is comfortable, tion –intwo-storey conicalbungalows– but theviewsare great, andaccommoda- is largeSerena andnottheleastbitintimate, hotmail.com) Program office the best organised through cultural walksinthesurrounding area, of theRiftValley escarpment.There are and acaciatrees framedbythebackdrop vege –aprofusiontation of palms,baobabs ness byitslively market, andbyitsbeautiful of isredeemed fromscruffi- Mosquitoes) The touristyvillage of Mto WaMbu(River % Mto WaMbu there are larger several ‘familysuite’ tents. vegetation, andwellspacedforprivacy, The 20doubletents are hiddenawayinthe with viewsof Manyara Lake inthedistance. the parkgate and6kmfromthemainroad, ontheescarpmentabout12kmfrom It’s set regardedthe hallmarksatthishighly camp. surroundings andmemorablecuisineare 192 main road. the market, Lodge, and Sunlight along the bathroom), includingSayari Lodge behind (sharedTSh2500 (with facilities)toTSh6000 in town, allwithbasicrooms fromabout There are inexpensive guesthouses several SLEEPING &EATING TSh4000 perdayforbicyclehire.TSh4000 average perperson TSh25,000 per day,plus main roadopposite the postoffice. Rates person all-inclusiveUS$490-630; village s/dfullboardUS$285/420; www.serenahotels.com; Wa Mbu, off the road to Lake Natron. Wa Mbu,off theroadtoLake cultural walks.EUnotois10kmnorthof Mto birding inthearea, aswellcyclingand Miwaleni.There’sley escarpmentnearLake ofbungalows nestledatthebase theRiftVal- with Maasai overtones andspaciousluxury est atthesouthernendof thepark. 10 intimate inthefor- ‘treesuites’ set house only onewithintheparkboundaries, with Manyara’s mostexclusive lodge, andthe E UnotoRetreat Lake Manyara Serena Lodge Serena Manyara Lake Lake Manyara Tree Lodge Tree Manyara Lake 027 NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN ••Tarangire NationalPark .com; s/dfullboardUS$224/408) at the Red Banana Café onthe Café attheRedBanana ( % 253 9393;mtoculturalprogramme@

( % 0744-360908; www.maasai

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(www.ccafrica.com; per (www.ccafrica.com; Jun-Mar; Jun-Mar; Aclassylodge Cultural Tourism Tourism Cultural

( % 250 4158/3; s ) Lake s )

.moivaro.com; perpersonhalfboardUS$107/133) signposted. It’s about2kmsouthof and themainroad and NgorongoroCrater canbearranged. Manyara toLake and safaris National Park bird calls.Thetents are rusticbutadequate, ting, inagrove of fever trees with thatechoes formerly MigungaForest –isitsset- Camp main attractionof thisunassumingplace– particular – elephants canbe foundhere of hartebeest and– in zebras, wildebeest, of any of herds thecountry’s parks.Large one of concentrations of the highest wildlife AugustandOctober, whenit has between destination, particularly classic dry-season worth longer exploration. Theparkisa it’s well although northern-circuit safari, more thanadayvisit aspartof alarger yara NationalPark, it’soften assigned no the Tarangire River. Like Man- nearbyLake stretches southeastof Manyara Lake around Baobab-studded % Tarangire NationalPark Wa Mbu. Petrolthe parkitself. isavailable inMto US$140 perday.There’s novehicle hire at andwillcostfromabout under Sleeping, can bearranged the placeslisted through to hire avehicle toexplore thepark,which with publictransport,oncethere you’llneed the otherdirection. coming fromArusha,andabout10.30am in MtoWaMbuabout12.30pm which passes are ontheNgorongoroCrater bus( p199 ), northwestern edge of thepark. about US$65oneway.Theairstrip isatthe Manyara ArushaandLake between for offer scheduled daily,ornear-daily, services Aviation,Coastal andRegional Air AirExcel THERE&AWAYGETTING room US$30/45; [email protected]; camping US$5, d/trwithshared bath- driver. costs US$140perdayincludingpetroland Area yara andNgorongoroConservation hirea restaurant. Man- Car tovisitLake hot andcoldwater, cookingfacilitiesand withablution blockswiththe mainroad Twiga Campsite &Lodge Twiga Campsite Lake Manyara Tented Manyara Camp Lake While it’seasytoreach MtoWa Mbu By publictransport,thebestconnections 027 s ) Alarge compoundalong www.lonelyplanet.com

( % ( % 253 9101;twiga 255 3242;www The key lodge withthree rustictented cabins, allwithattached key per personall-inclusive US$175) Alow- conservation.com; s/dfullboardUS$165/250; www.kirurumu.com; ing the Gurusi wetlands in the southwestern part ofthepark. ing theGurusi wetlandsinthesouthwestern part sive option, nestled inagroveofacacia trees and overlook- .com; s/dall-inclusiveUS$505/810) Tarangire’s most exclu- Mar) s/d all-inclusiveUS$350/600; is atthenorthwestern tipof thepark. tions. You can can tions. You Tarangire inoneof thepark’swildestsec- overlooking theswamplandsof southeastern timate onaridge camp,withsixtents set park, so bring what you need fromArusha. park, sobringwhatyouneed sites. There’s nowhere tostockupnearthe headquarters andabout12specialcamp There’s anordinarycampsite nearpark Sleeping warden the day. Forbookings,contact Entry fees are US$35/10peradult/child per Information border areas. drivespossible todowalksandnight inthe which freely,through animalsroam andit’s over 300different speciesrecorded. Octoberand May,especially between with The parkisalsogoodforbird-watching, allows themtomove ontonewgrasslands. until Octoberwhentheshortwetseason www.lonelyplanet.com Naitolia Camp Tarangire Swala the baobabs. It’soutsideTarangire’s border. northeastern bungalows setonlowstilts, orbuilttree house–stylearound 770; elewana.com; US$385/ s/dfullboardinclwildlife drives bungalows. and accommodationintents orthatched River, about10kminsidetheparkgate, overlookingcation onabluff theTarangire large lodge isgoodvalue,withaprimelo- Tarangire Lodge Treetops and signposted offtheMakuyuni road. about 20minutes’ drive fromtheparkgate drives Night areyour safari. alsopossible. It’s doing nature orwildlife walkstogether with ifyou’recamp isagoodbase interested in safarilodge.com; s/dfullboardUS$125/200; safarilodge.com; Tamarind Camp TarangireTamarind Camp Tarangire Safari Lodge Tarangire Safari Tarangire ispartof anextended ecosystem ’s Camp Camp Oliver’s Other recommendations: Intimate andrustic,thiscomfortable h

Jun-Mar) PamperedJun-Mar) with spacious andupmarket, ( % 253 1280/1,2508642). ( % ( ( % also dowalkingsafaris. % 0744-470447, 275451;info@tarangire 250 9816;www.sanctuarylodges 250 2799;www.asilialodges.com;

( h ( % %

( Jul-Feb) 254 4752;www.tarangire % 250 0630/9;info@ Theentrygate 250 7011,7541; Afine,in- senior park s

h ) This NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti Jun- luxury tentsandthechanceforwalksnightdrives. thiscamphasspacious,well-appointed park boundaries, justeastofthe board plusbushwalkUS$295/440)Onarise birdlife. springers and warthogs, aswell asdiverse and Grant’s gazelles,elands, impalas,klip- You’reraffes. Thomson’s alsolikely tosee are about200,000) andlarge herds of gi- zebras (ofas wellcheetahs, which there before theyare fourmonths old. about40%of willdie day, although these over calves 8000 wildebeest are born per rains. AroundFebruary, thecalvingseason, movingstart southinanticipationof the and intheMasai Mara, before theyagain about JulytoOctober,outsidethe Serengeti from thenspendthedryseason, wildebeest ofgrate northandwestinsearch food.The green areas, andformlarge herdsthatmi- concentratebeest onthefew remaining Whenthishappens,thewilde- rains cease. and streams, theydryoutquicklywhen the (NCA). As areas these have few large rivers Area and theNgorongoroConservation over of thesouthernsection theSerengeti ber andMay theherdsare widelyscattered biggest drawcard. and theirannualmigrationistheSerengeti’s large carnivores such aslionsandhyenas, chief herbivores andalsothemainprey of of which there are over onemillion,are the ofin search fresh grassland.Thewildebeest, hoofed animalsare onthemove constantly its vast,treeless plainstens of of thousands largest andmostfamousnationalpark.On inKenya, isTanzania’sNational Reserve sq kmandiscontiguouswithMasai Mara Serengeti NationalPark, which covers 14,763 NATIONAL PARKSERENGETI is inMakuyuni. hire vehicles. placetobuypetrol Theclosest (approximately US$60perseat). Manyara ArushaandLake between flights Air allstopatTarangire onrequest ontheir Aviation,Coastal andRegional AirExcel &Away There Getting Kikoti hicle tothegate),withchanceforwalksandnightdrives. border(about 45minutesbyve- outside thepark’snorthern bathroom andopen-airshower,atree house.It’sjust The Serengeti isalsofamous for itslions, Decem- between During therainyseason There’s nowhere Tarangire inornear to ( % 250 8090; www.tzphotosafaris.com; s/dfull 250 8090;www.tzphotosafaris.com;

193 TANZANIA TANZANIA varied zonesandappreciate itsvastness. much timeaspossibletoexplore thepark’s asideas a chance Trytoset nottobemissed. in few otherplaces.Ifyou’re abletovisit,it’s chrony of nature canbeappreciated here as opportunities, andthebeautysyn- Activities Activities AugustandOctober.between particularly duringthedryseason, good base Serengeti, around LoboandKlein’sGate, isa skirting theWestern Corridor. The northern move northwardssooner,avoiding oronly In particularlydryyears, theherdstend to actual viewingwindowcanbequite short. Mayplace between the andJuly,although the park’sWestern Corridor,usuallytakes of theGrumetiRiver, which runsthrough eastern partof thepark. Thefamouscrossing orinthesouth- of thecampsnearSeronera fromaboutDecembertoAprilis atone base marily interested thebest inthewildebeest, wardingly atanytimeof year. Ifyouare pri- theparkcan bevisitedJune, although re- is greatest aboutDecemberand between The concentrationof wildlife intheSerengeti WHEN TOGO .serengeti.org). ism Warden the hostel shouldbemadethrough day. Bookingsforcampsites, resthouses and Entry fees are US$50/10peradult/child per Information 194 Serengeti BalloonSafaris Serengeti Bookings canbemadein Arushathrough follows a stretch of theGrumeti River. varies depending onthewinds,butoften with linentablecloths. route Theflight the bushunder acaciatrees, complete by afullEnglish champagne breakfast in floating over theplainsatdawn,followed costs US$449per person foraboutanhour This ence theSerengeti isviaballoon safari. An expensive butenjoyablewaytoexperi- other items. mapsandsometimesfilm, among selling andasmallshop atSeronera, tion Centre ism divisionisatSeronera. Ikoma, justoutsidethepark,whiletour- tral Serengeti lodges. .balloonsafaris.com) The Serengeti offers unparalleledsafari There’s isanexcellentVisitors Informa- NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti

( Park headquarters are atFort % , or through any of, or through the cen- 028-262 0091,1515/04;www

( % 027-250 8578; www Tour- atmosphere buffet. attheevening safari rooms andalively end-of-the-day wildlife-viewing areas, modestbutpleasant with agoodlocationconvenient toprime Loliondo, andintheadjoiningNCA. der thepark,especiallyinnortharound it’seasilyarrangedthough inareas thatbor- those attheother Sopa lodges. those comforts, and facilities are ona parwith rooms and twodoublebeds –have all the but rooms –allspacious,with smallsitting derous and architecturally unappealing, full boardUS$180) 254 4795;www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; rper person lows’ withallthe amenities. modation isintwo-storey ‘Maasai bunga- good choice, andvery Accom- comfortable. Wildlife a Lodge, butotherwise Seronera airstrip, andnot as favourably located as explore furtherafield. if youdon’thave thetimeorinterest to easy accesstomostof thepark’sotherzones back’ formostof theyear,withrelatively most crowdedarea, it’salsoareliable ‘fall- centre of thepark.Whileit’sSerengeti’s The mainlodge inthe area isatSeronera, CENTRAL SERENGETI following. and tented campsinthepark,asdetailed Hill Gate. There are alsoanumberof lodges LoboandNaabi sites, includingatSeronera, at Seronera. andbasicfoodstuffs also buysimplemeals and bedding,alarge hostel. Youcan with bathrooms able resthouses atSeronera There are rusticbutcomfort- alsoseveral includingwithwater.to beself-sufficient, formost you’llneed has ashower,though have one pittoiletsandatleast road. Several in thefarwestalongMwanza–Musoma NdabakaGateern Corridorandonenear one atLobo,KirawiraintheWest- in thepark,includingsixaroundSeronera, There are aboutnineordinarycampsites Sleeping sopalodges.com; s/dfullboard US$175/280; s s/dfullboard US$285/420; 4153; www.serenahotels.com; Serengeti Serena Lodge Serena Serengeti Walking intheSerengeti isn’tpermitted, Serengeti Sopa Lodge Serengeti Seronera WildlifeLodge Seronera There are at leasttwodozenspecialcamp ) About 20kmnorthwestof Seronera Thisisthebestoverall value,

( %

( www.lonelyplanet.com %

( % 027-250 0630/39;info@ 027-250 4158, 027-254 4595,027- s ) Pon- wildlife-viewing area. and views over the GrumetiRiver inagood built, with anintimate bush atmosphere, A luxuriouscamp, recently completely re- eegt Ntoa Park National Serengeti .com; s/d full board incl wildlife drives US$385/770; .com; s/dfullboardincl wildlife drives www.lonelyplanet.com Sayari Camp are forthis. Sayari Camp goodcontacts and ing onthelocalMaasai; LoliondoCamp multiday walks)and culturalactivitiesfocus- withwalks(including for combiningasafari part of thepark, totheeast,isalsoideal gust andOctober. Thearea bordering this Au- camps andmakes between afinebase The northhasanexcellentcollection of NORTHERN SERENGETI US$560; Speke Gulf Mwanza (135km) Lodge (15km); To SpekeBay V ictora 4 1 3 2 SERENGETI NATIONALPARK ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Klein’s Camp Migration Camp Migration Musoma L ake Bunda Maswa & NationalPark Ndabaka Gate s Camp Site 15 ) Exclusive and strikingly sit uated AC Seronera WildlifeLodge...... Serengeti TentedCamp...... Serengeti Stop-OverPoint...... Serengeti SopaLodge...... Serengeti SerenaLodge...... Sayari Camp...... Sayari Camp...... Ndutu SafariLodge...... Migration Camp...... Mbalageti...... Loliondo Camp...... Lobo WildlifeLodge...... Kusini Camp...... Klein's Camp...... Kirawira Camp...... Kijereshi TentedCamp...... Grumeti RiverCamp...... SLEEPING Handajega

(www.ccafrica.com; perperson all-inclusive (www.ccafrica.com; 2 Gate Ruana

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Game Reserve Isuria www.kirurumu.com; s/dall-inclusive US$620/840; www.kirurumu.com; and thechance wildlife todonight drives. luxuriouscottages,boundary, witheight just outsidethenortheasternmost park Mar) for cultural activitiesand walking. intheNdutu area,wildebeest andthechance eastern border,withaccess totheherdsof March, it’s justoutsidetheSerengeti’s south- River, while frommid-Decemberthrough ontheMara setting a particularlybeautiful November,From mid-Junethrough it’sin gration, sothatit’s attheheartof theaction. campfollowstheSerengeti mi- tent seasonal s/d all-inclusiveUS$350/600) Ri Ikorongo Fort Ikoma & IkomaGate Park Headquarters 16

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Joins Ngorongoro Conservation Area Map (p198) TANZANIA TANZANIA walks inthesurroundingarea. plus thechance drives fornight andguided simple tents withbathroomsandhotwater, ary and3kmfromIkomaGate. Ithas12 small campisjustoutsidethepark bound- booked through upmarket travelagents. throughupmarket booked Thecampcanonlybe of thebestguidesinSerengeti. camp thatfollowsthewildebeestmigration,withsome per personall-inclusiveUS$480)Ahighlyexclusivemobile s s/dall-inclusiveUS$870/1340; www.serenahotels.com; the Mwanza–Musoma highway about 1km from Ndabaka highwayabout 1km from Ndabaka the Mwanza–Musoma person US$10,s/d US$20/30) Acampingground along .serengetistopover.com; camping US$5,tentrental per move through. May andearlyJuly,whenthewildebeest around intheparkbetween is thebestbase of theSerengeti’s mostupmarket lodges, and tions (alloutsidethepark).Italsohasseveral Serengeti istheonlyarea thathasbudget op- Apart fromtheparkcampsites, thewestern WESTERN SERENGETI Camp Safari Serengeti Lobo WildlifeLodge drivesnight andmultidaywalkingsafaris. the localMaasai. It’salsowellsituated for withsomecultural interactionsafari with a goodchoice ifyouwanttocombineyour hills dotted withhuge granite boulders. It’s amidgrasslandsandwooded boundary, set Wildlife Lodge, andjustoutsidethepark 196 the amenities. tion isin10spaciousluxurytents withall arewildebeest often around.Accommoda- especially primearoundJune–July whenthe bush locationneartheGrumetiRiver that’s sive campsintheSerengeti. It’sin a wild all-inclusive US$630; Serengeti Stop Over Point StopOver Serengeti opulence’. ing describesas an ambienceof ‘colonial with luxurioustents in whatitsadvertis- infeel thanGrumeti,somewhat tamer ismore90km westof openand Seronera, best value in this part ofthepark. best valueinthispart Wildlife Lodge.Ifyourbudgetislimited,it’sthe Seronera board US$180)Welllocatedandsimilarinstandardtothe www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; rperpersonfull .moivaro.com; perpersonfullboardUS$160/213) Grumeti River Camp Grumeti River Serengeti Tented Camp Serengeti Other recommendations: Kirawira Camp Kirawira Other recommendations: ) NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti Kirawira, set on a small rise about on asmallrise Kirawira,set

s ( % ( % ) Oneof themostexclu- (www.nomad-tanzania.com; 027-250 4158/3,028-2621518;

(www.ccafrica.com; perperson (www.ccafrica.com; 027-254 4595,4795; (

% ( % 0748-406996; www 027-255 3242;www This facilities forself-caterers. for US$5)plusafew rooms,arestaurant, andcooking tented accommodation(youcanalsopitchyourowntent It’sapopularbaseforoverlanders,withfunctional Gate. Handajega signposted, andabout2kmfromtheSerengeti’s roadand 18kmeastoftheMwanza–Musoma boundaries, US$65/100; 1231; www.hoteltilapia.com; s/dUS$40/70,withfullboard .com; s/dall-inclusive US$485/770) any timethatyou crossintothepark. topaySerengetiNCA fees, fees you’llneed ble inthesurrounding NCA.Inadditionto western are Serengeti. Walkingsafaris possi- Ngorongoro Craterbetween andcentralor and makes agoodstopifyou’re enroute area aboutDecemberand April, between the enormousherdsof inthis wildebeest It’s especiallywellsituated forobserving the Serengeti inthefarwestern partof NCA. justoutside rustic,withcottages set fortably Serengeti. outcrops in the very remote southwestern amid rocky setting in agood wet-season Kusini Camp SOUTHWESTERN SERENGETI it’s fullof wildebeest. (Decemberto earlyApril),when wet season forwildlifea goodbase viewing duringthe The Serengeti’s southeastern cornermakes SOUTHEASTERN SERENGETI arrangements withthecampinadvance. River. orelsemake You’llneedyourownvehicleforsafaris, oftheMbalageti chalets setoutonalowhillsidenorth luxurytented rooms,plustwo-dozen has comfortable d fullboardr/luxurytentUS$310/550)Thisnewcamp Mbalageti BayLodge Speke Tented Camp Kijereshi lessonsandmore. Swahili US$150 perday,andcanorganiseculturalexcursions, vehicle(withadvancenotice)forabout camp hires asafari roadwilldropyounearby.The the Mwanza–Musoma clean rooms,plusfoodandasmallbar. Anybusalong There’s spacetopitchatentandfewGate. simple, .com; s/dUS$156/210) sions on the lake; for safaris, you’llneedyourownvehicle. forsafaris, sions onthelake; hotel canhelpyouorganiseboat,fishingorbirdingexcur- in spotless,ifsoulless,ensuitefour-personbungalows. The Accommodation isinsimpletentswithshared facilities,or ofMwanza. and125kmnorth Gate southwest ofNdabaka about15km Victoria s/d bungalowsUS$80/100)OnLake africaonline.co.tz; s/dtentswithshared bathroomUS$31/44, Ndutu Safari Lodge Ndutu Safari s ( %

( ) Abudgetplacejustoutsidethepark % 027-254 8632;www.mbalageti.com; ( 027-250 9816; www.sanctuarylodges % Unpretentious andcom- 028-262 1236;spekebay@

( ( % % www.lonelyplanet.com 027-250 2829;www.ndutu 028-250 0127,028-262 Laid-back luxury Laid-back Gate southeastern edge of thepark,and hitching isnotpermitted inthepark. able problemof getting onwardtransport,as you’llhaveget theconsider- outatSeronera, topayparkfees and,ifyou You willneed thewildlife. won’t beabletostopobserve Western Corridor(see p205 you ), although Arusha andMwanzaorMusomaviathe animals istotake abustravelling between ofoption fortryingtoget aglimpse the travellersFor shoestring theonlyother orwiththeirownveorganised safari hicle. on demand. Mwanza andRubondoIslandNationalPark continue ontoSome of flights Coastal’s US$145 andUS$170perperson oneway. ofseveral theSerengeti airstrips forbetween Air allhave fromArushato dailyflights Aviation,Coastal andRegional AirExcel &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com Ndutu isactually just over the border inthe Ndutu and Masekalkaline Lakes (although Olduvai(Oldupai) Gorge,encompasses the entire NCAcovers about 8300sqkmand stretches of plains,bush andwoodland.The togethertiful Crater Highlands withvast related ecosystems consisting of thebeau- just onepartof amuch larger area of inter- The world-renowned Ngorongoro Crater is % NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA ( and usuallyBunda. liable petrolpointsare Mwanza,Musoma plies. Comingfromthewest, mostre- vehicle, comeprepared sup- withsufficient inthepark,soifyouareelse inyourown Wildlife Lodge. It’snotavailable anywhere Crater (Park Village) andatthe Seronera Petrol isalsousuallyavailable atNgorongoro clude Makuyuni, MtoWaMbuandKaratu. the parkafter 7pm. Drivingisnotpermitted in Klein’s Camp. (Western Corridor)andinthenorth near There are otherentrypointsatHandajega Africanresidentsonly toEast orcitizens. buttheborderis open National Reserve, der, isenroute to/fromKenya’s Masai Mara Bologonya Gate, 5kmfromtheKenyan bor- Mwanza alongtheMwanza–Musomaroad. h The mainaccessgates are Most travellers visittheSerengeti with an Petrol pointsenroute fromArushain- 027 6am-6pm)

( h 6am-4pm) , 50km from Seronera atthe , 50kmfromSeronera , about140kmnortheastof Naabi Hill Gate Naabi Hill NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN Area ••NgorongoroConservation Ndabaka Ndabaka

of NgorongoroCrater, and co.tz). % for hundreds of years. are theMaasai, whohave grazedcattlehere (2200m). Themain residents of thearea in Maasai) and of Ngorongoro course, of (2878m,‘Mountain God’ Doinyo Lengai also spelledEmbagai),thestill-active Ol Loolmalasin (3648m),Empakaai (3262m, 3132m),Olmoti(3100m),(Lemagurut, (3216m),Makarotpeaks includeOldeani along theeastern edge of theNCA.The the sideof theGreat RiftValley andruns upfrom thatrises volcanoes and collapsed consist of range an elevated of volcanoes The ruggedly beautiful Crater Highlands Highlands Crater ( Authority Area Ngorongoro Conservation The NCAisunderthejurisdictionof the Information Natron. alkaline Lake of theNCAonKenyan borderisthe Eyasi. Tothenortheast to thesouthisLake Engaruka,and archaeologically important outside theNCA’seastern boundaryisthe as calderas),mostof which are inactive. Just (often volcanoes and collapsed referred to Serengeti) andalongstringof volcanoes good trekking. For allroutes, to you’ll need Tanzania’s most unusual scenery, aswell as visited, itoffers although seldom someof the areaCrater Highlands isremote and Apart from Ngorongoro Crater, much of TREKKING INTHE CRATER HIGHLANDS tion office inArusha.tion office Ngorongoro Crater, withatouristinforma- an ordinary/specialcampsite. fees areCamping US$20/40perperson in this limitisnotcurrently beingenforced. fee perentry,validforsixhours, although Crater, there’s anadditionalUS$100vehicle Todrivewalking safaris. intoNgorongoro Guides costUS$15perday,andUS$20for person perday(discounted forchildren). tivities withintheNCA–are US$30per to visitNgorongoroCrater andforall ac- Lodoare Gate Lodoare National Park. h Entry fees topay –which you’llneed The twoentrypointstotheNCAare 253 9108,7019,7060;ncaa_hq@habari. 6am-6pm) Its headquarters isatPark Village at , ontheborderwithSerengeti

( h 6.30am-6pm) , justtothesouth Naabi Hill Gate Naabi Hill

(NCAA; 197

TANZANIA ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ

TANZANIA of which entry fee. hasaTSh5000 Bythe designated Maasai ‘cultural donkeys. Everything from isusually based care of arranging thecamp sites, guidesand tial foraccessing alltreks). The NCAA takes including water, plushire ave hicle (essen- camping equipment andsuppliesyourself, tice forovernight hikes, aswellprovide all to give onemonth’s no- you’ll need atleast things directly with theNCAA,although entry fees. Alternatively, youcanorganise US$150 perperson perday,includingNCA tour company;expecttopayfrom atleast or vehicle supporttocarrysupplies. thing exceptdayhikes donkeys you’llneed be accompaniedbyaguide,and forany- Area Ngorongoro Conservation 198 Endulen Escarpment Mwanza (375km) Seronera (95km);Musoma(340km); Naabi HillGate(45km); To LakeNdutu&Masek(30km); Eyasi Lake

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NGORONGORO CONSERVATIONAREA 1500

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NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN Area ••NgorongoroConservation

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2100 Lake NatronCamp...... Kudu Campsite&Lodge...... Kisima Ngeda...... Gibb's Farm...... ELCT KaratuLutheranHostel..(see13) Olduvai Museum...... NCAA Headquarters...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 2400 e G

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10 1500 Conservation Ngorongoro Byte's InternetPub&Café...... Simba AOrdinaryCampsite...... Plantation Lodge...... Octagon SafariLodge...... Ngorongoro WildlifeLodge...... Ngorongoro SerenaSafariLodge.. Ngorongoro SafariResort...... (see13) Ngorongoro CraterLodge...... EATING bomas Lodoare Gate Ascent &

Descent Rd Area 11 Olmoti Crater (3100m) Olmoti B

5 1200 Karatu ’, each 3 Munge Oljoro Nyuki 13 H ighlands Nainokanoka P lain S ale C rate

1500 1200 Manyara National Losirua Ὀ Ὀ Lake Park Bulati

2700 Emowoengoilil 1800 Depression

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Nairobi the facilities at Ngorongoro Crater. guide fees. There are no camps apartfrom port costs, involve only theNCAentry and at Ngorongoro Crater and,apart fromtrans- bedone inadayfrom abase All caneasily Oldeani, oratEmpakaai orOlmotiCraters. and lessexpensive, tryhikingatMakarot or Forsomething shorter Ol DoinyoLengai. okanoka, orextended one more daytoclimb but canbecutto three atNain- bystarting Natron.Thistakes nearLake fourdays, Sero tofinishatNgareter andcrossthehighlands justnorthoftion istostart NgorongoroCra- tour operator. a togothrough works outaboutthesame out,intheendit time yousorteverything

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B4 Sero A3 B4 B4 B4 A3 A3 Kitete 6 Ngare SeroVillage Ol Doinyo (2878m) Lengai Selela Natron Engaruka Lake Kerimasi (2300m) 12miles 20km 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com

1500 1800 Bomba Gelai- (2941m) Gelai

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1500 Burko Lumbwa Gelai- pared, especiallyifyou’re camping. crater rim,sobringajacket andcomepre- fore 6pm. vehicles mustbeoutof thecrater area be- (fordescent)at4pm;all at 7am,andclose floor issometimesrestricted. tonegotiate, and access tothecraterdifficult but duringAprilandMay itcanbewetand goro canbevisited atanytimeof theyear, ing theircattle. andyoumaycomeacrossthemtend- rights, crater withlocalMaasai, whohave grazing land onthecrater floor. Wildlife shares the thanks tothepermanentwater andgrass- siderable movement of animalsinand out, ablackrhinoortwo.also see crater’s Chancesare base. goodthatyou’ll lows of Magadi, Lake thesodalake atthe hundreds of flamingos wadingintheshal- gazelles, zebrasandreedbucks, aswell herbivores Thomson’s such aswildebeest, andmanyof theplains elephants, buffaloes and rich birdlife. Youare lions, likely tosee swamps, forests, afreshwater saltpans, lake mals andvegetation, includinggrasslands, its wallsisanastoundingvarietyof ani- the largest calderasintheworld.Within tions. Atabout20kmwideit’salsooneof one of Africa’smost visited destina- East concentrations of wildlife, Ngorongorois viewing opportunitiesandunparalleled With itsblue-green close-range vistas, Ngorongoro Crater www.lonelyplanet.com include thefollowing: travel time down tothecrater floor. They crater rim– ideally positioned tominimise or Arusha. Bring allyoursupplies fromeitherKaratu Ndutu andMasek, Empakaai. andone near sites, includingacluster of sites nearLakes ters. There are alsonumerousspecial camp Gate, andnotfarfrom NCAAheadquar- cover. It’salongtheroad fromLodoare tobe thereenough whenthere’s nocloud good viewsover thecrater ifyou’re lucky showers) andisn’tthatclean,butithas which hasbasicfacilities(toiletsandcold The onlyordinarycampsite isSimbaA, SLEEPING It canget quite chilly andrawonthe The gates downtothecrater flooropen For fee information,see p197 . Ngoron- Despite thecrater’s there’s steepness, con- There are lodges on ornearthe several NORTHERN TANZANIANORTHERN Area ••NgorongoroConservation www.serenahotels.com; s/dfullboardUS$285/420) www.serenahotels.com; ern rimof thecrater. onthesouth- rooms andabeautifulsetting nature walksanddayhikes toOlmoti. shorthikesises fromthelodge, including Green FootprintAdventures ( p92 ) organ- and nearthemaincrater descentroute. of thecrater, pastNgorongoroCrater Lodge in agoodlocationonthesouthwestern rim attractive andperennially is popularSerena the crater. own butler. It’sonthesouthwestern rimof are ultra-top-end, andpricesincludeyour of stylesanddécor. andamenities Service terms of design,withaneclecticcollection camps–isthemostinterestingseparate in .com; rperpersonfullboardUS$180) or direct the NgorongoroCrater. Serengeti) isatNCAAheadquarters, near (inthe Karatupetrol between andSeronera Karatu price. Theonly foraboutthesame in advance. Youcanalsohire vehicles in half/full day;vehicle hire shouldbebooked NCAA headquarters forUS$100/140a You canarrange guidesandvehicle hire at AROUND GETTING Karatu andMtoWaMbu. at 7am.It’salsopossibletoget thebusin Park Village (where vehicles canbehired) hours), departingArushaat10amand seven andNCAAheadquartersstation (TSh4000, Arusha’s centralbus trundles dailybetween The large, white NgorongoroCrater bus THERE&AWAYGETTING vehicle, make sure itcanhandlethem. side, are steep,soifyou’re driving yourown cept theroadfrom SopaLodge ontheeastern vehicles toenter. All roads intothecrater, ex- when theauthorities season crater, timesduring thedry exceptatcertain base for visiting Ngorongoro.base tiful countryside, and makes a convenient Lodoare Gate issurroundedby somebeau- of town about 15kmeast This small,scruffy % Karatu son all-inclusiveUS$630) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge Ngorongoro Crater Ngorongoro WildlifeLodge Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge Safari Ngorongoro Serena Only 4WDsare alloweddownintothe 027 % 253 7058/73;www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania Thislodge –actuallythree

(www.ccafrica.com; perper- (www.ccafrica.com;

( % Straightforward Straightforward may 254 4595,4795,

( % allow2WD 250 4158/3;

The 199 TANZANIA TANZANIA board US$147/208) road and signposted. the cuisine. It’s about5kmnorth of themain and gets consistently goodreviews, asdoes andcosygardenbungalows, fee plantations withwide viewsoversetting thenearby cof- Farm hasarusticatmosphere, awonderful and hasanATM, and that exchanges cashandtravellers cheques lows andabar. Meals can bearranged. pitch your tent, hot-water showers, bunga- south of themainroad,hasalarge lawnto Kudu, atthewestern endof town,andjust Market. ing OlduvaiSupermarket andKaratu Mini- supermarkets along themainroad,includ- petrol station. behind theCrater Highlands advance notice).It’salongthemain road picniclunchesalso dotakeaway (three days style mealsare theattractionhere. They juices,cappuccinoandgourmet- squeezed half/full day. ManyaraLake costsfromUS$110/120per town centre. hire Car toNgorongoroor It’sonthemainroadin from TSh2500. hot showers, overpriced roomsandmeals crowded,campingfacilities, Good, though campingUS$5, s/dUS$65/80) [email protected]; with roomsforaboutTSh3000. andall town, allof standard, aboutthesame inthecentreare basicguesthouses of several In additiontothefollowinglistings,there Budget SLEEPING &EATING 200 Gibb’s Farm Midrange &Top End SLEEPING &EATING habari.co.tz; campingUS$6,s/d/trbungalowsUS$95/100/110) western endof town. good meals.It’sonthemainroadat has simple,cleanroomswithhotwater, and afsat.com; mealsfromTSh4000; TSh16,000/22,000/32,000) hr TSh2000; for food. -lodge.de; s/dhalf boardUS$135/187; Plantation Lodge branch There anNBC isapostoffice, Bytes Internet Pub&Café Internet Bytes For self-catering, there are small several For self-catering, ELCT Karatu LutheranHostel Karatu ELCT Resort Ngorongoro Safari Kudu Campsite &Lodge Kudu Campsite NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN Area ••NgorongoroConservation h

( % 8am-11pm) The long-established Gibb’s Thelong-established 253 4040;www.gibbsfarm.net; s/dhalf

( % TheLutheranHostel , which isalsogood 253 4364/5; www.plantation

Bytes Internet Café Café Internet Bytes ( h %

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% ( 8am-11pm) % 253 4055;kuducamp@

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and acosypub. inattractivetages set grounds,arestaurant place justoff themainroad,withairycot- be 500 yearsat least old. There’s speculation terraced stone housing sites estimated to with complex andmysterious irrigation system is a small village known for itsruinsof a Engaruka, ontheeastern edge of theNCA, Engaruka as the 1.8-million-year-old apelike skullknown ofable documentation ancientlife. almost twomillionyears, itprovides remark- overdown inorderlysequence aperiodof upon layerof volcanicdepositswere laid unique geological history,inwhich layer west of NgorongoroCrater. Thankstoits runningtothenorth- and upto90mdeep isacanyonabout50kmlong Olduvai Gorge of petrolstation. town,behind theTotal In Karatu, isatthewestern end thebusstand THERE&AWAYGETTING lodge.com; rperpersonfullboardUS$100) about 2kmnorthof themainroad. fireplace ambiance. It’s andacosy,highland randas withviewsover the hills,acrackling ingreenset andexpansive grounds, large ve- place, withspacious,well-appointed cottages the museum. per dayfee tovisitOlduvaiGorge, including NCA, there’s anadditional US$2perperson museum. by aguide,which canbearranged at the to godownintothegorge, accompanied toSerengeti. It’spossible theroad just off sapiens provide someof of theoldestevidence excavated fromtheupperlayers of Olduvai Other lesser-known butsignificantfossils about45kmsouthof OlduvaiGorge., to be3.7millionyears oldwere discovered at hominid (humanlike) footprintsestimated man’, referring toitslarge molars. In1972 as The skullisalsooftenevolution. referred to gave toaheated debate rise abouthuman covered byMary in1959andwhich Leakey The mostfamousof Olduvai’sfossilsis Lodge Safari Octagon As fees applying tothe wellas thestandard There’s asmall Zinjanthropus, Australopithecus boisei, inthearea. which means‘nutcracker museum

( % www.lonelyplanet.com 253 4525;www.octagon

which wasdis- ( h Agood,new 8am-3pm) Homo here there’s nopublictransport. to thelake fromMtoWaMbuandArusha; are required. in theCrater Advancebookings Highlands. gai, andcanalsohelpwitharranging hikes fororganisingtact treks upOl DoinyoLen- camping ground.Thecampisthe best con- forward ensuite tents, andanadjoining .com; perpersonhalfboardUS$140/187) but you’ll need aguidefromtheNCAA. but you’llneed possible tohike infromEmpakaaiCrater, afternoon andEngarukaarounddawn.It’s usually departingMtoWaMbuinthelate left neartheEngarukaJuuprimaryschool. Jerusalem justafter Campsite theriver, onthe cluding oneinEngarukavillage, andthenicer sha, oratJerusalem inEngaruka. Campsite thetouristinformationoffice inAru- through theprogramguides masi (2614m).Contact oradayclimbofDoinyo Lengai MtKeri- tours of theruins,atwo-dayhike to MtOl people. Bantu-speaking suggest thatthesite wasbuiltbytheSonjo,a people wholive inthearea today,whileothers were builtbyancestors of theIraqw(Mbulu) about theoriginof they theruins;somesay www.lonelyplanet.com known asHadzapi orTindiga) people, who area, around which live the Hadzabe (also inthe south.It’sahot, dry dero Mountains Eyasi Escarpment inthenorth andtheKi- beautiful Starkly the Eyasiliesbetween Lake Eyasi Lake as the past,soasklocallyforanupdate. There problemshere have security in been 4WD. ficult, andatanytime,you’llneed around thelake’s banks make accessdif- ing much of theyear,swampymarshes 25kmsouth.Dur-Mt OlDoinyoLengai, forclimbingthechallenginga goodbase trackexcursion. It’salsooff-the-beaten and offers arewarding –albeitvery hot– mote, withadesolate, otherworldlybeauty, Thesurroundingarearainy season. isre- flamingos thatgatherhere attheendof the alkaline lake known forthehuge flocksof Natron,ontheKenyanLake border,isan Natron Lake Lake NatronCamp Lake Lake Natron Camp canorganise transfers Natron Camp Lake Pick-ups gosporadicallytoEngaruka, There are campinggrounds,in- several The localCulturalTourismProgramoffers There’s abasiccampingground,aswell

( % 027-255 3242;www.moivaro , withstraight- full boardUS$170/270) habari.co.tz; campingUS$5,s/d luxurytentedbungalow of theoniontrucks. drop you.Alternatively, hitch aliftwithone ing groundsorpayextratohave thedriver from where towalkthe camp- you’llneed ratu andGhorofani twohours), (TSh2500, RoversKaratu. Land Ka- godailybetween camping grounds.Forcamping,stockupin galows overlooking thelake, andseveral bird-watching and justrelaxing about. and Rubondo Island National Park, for koba, the heartlandof the Haya people; nearMwanza; Bu- Bujora Cultural Centre ing number of attractions, includingthe the surrounding region holds asurpris- and havethrough, abentfortheoffbeat, country. Yet, passing ifyoufindyourself behind thatin many otherpartsof the passing visitors, and infrastructure lags watersidesleepy charm, have littletohold tourists; lakeshore towns,apartfroma mous patch onlyatrickleof of bluesees Victoria. TheTanzanian part of thisenor- tooverlookworld, itwouldbeeasy Lake the second-largest freshwater lake inthe If itwere itnotAfrica’slargest lake, and eastern end. main village isGhorofani, atthelake’s north- River nearthevillage campingground.The sive irrigationsystems alongtheChemchem onion-growing centre, andthere are impres- groups.TheareaBantu isTanzania’s main years ago,aswelltheMaasai andvarious of Cushiticorigin whoarrived about2000 the area are theIraqw(Mbulu),apeople hunting-and-gathering traditions.Also in 10,000 years andwhocontinuetofollow are to have believed lived here fornearly paying about TSh15,000 persmallgroup. paying aboutTSh15,000 ing nearbyHadzabe communities;planon easily arranged ifyou’re interested invisit- detour onaNgorongorotrip.Guidescanbe small, Eyasiisgaininginpopularityasa Ghorofani isa Ngeda doum palmsinthebackground,is onthelakeshorein asublimesetting with with asmallspring.About 5kmfurtheron, Although visitornumbersAlthough are relatively Near theChemchem River and2kmfrom

( % 027-253 4128,027-2548840;kisima@ village campingground , withluxurytented bun- LAKE VICTORIA LAKE VICTORIA

(TSh3500) Kisima Kisima 201

, TANZANIA ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ

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250 0343/5; s/dTSh20,000/ % % ( % ( %

250 0096,0128; 250 2620,2273;www ( % 250 2001;rTSh13,500) 250 0061,0754; 42523; cnrUhuru& h 8am-11pm

where it’sa2.5kmwalk(left)tothelake. about From town,take a It’s TSh4000). 8km fromtownand2kmthe airport. from (meals aurant t lawn slopingdowntothelake, andares- with cottages scattered over anexpansive (5% surcharge). in theprice,andcredit cardsare accepted style suites. breakfast Abuffet isincluded and yourchoice of roomsorbungalow- race, abusinesscentre, restaurants several side of Point.Ithasalakeside ter- Capri overlookingsetting thewater ontheeastern Mwanza’s besthotel isinabreezy Central sleep inthemfornoadditionalcharge.sleep are best,andmanagement letthree people trickling hot-water shower,fanandnet– Line train.Upstairs rooms– complete with barked froma40-hour haulontheCentral are easytooverlook ifyou’ve justdisem- is ageing butitsshortcomings andtatty, room TSh12,000/15,000) bath- s/d withshared bathroomTSh4000/6000,withprivate restaurant. andthere’s alsoaterrace-levelhave TV, hotel inthetowncentre. Thebland rooms with five-star aspirationsistheonly‘proper’ TSh50,000/60,000; Rd;s/d cnr PostSt&Kenyatta mwanzahotel.com; s/d TSh7200/8400,upstairsdTSh15,000) off Balewa Rd. off Balewa walk northof theclocktowerroundabout, breakfast It’saboutfive TSh1000. minutes’ suite ones(withhotwater). Breakfast is bathroom (nohotwater), plusnewer en church-run hostel hasroomswithshared Hotel TilapiaHotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND posted. town, justoff theairportroadandsign- Mwanza US$250; .waghill.com; perperson fullboard&transfers to/from .com; Capri Point;d/stefromUS$80/100; .com; Capri s/tw/d US$45/55/60) transfers. lake. The price includes fishing andboat ested hillside on apeninsulajutting intothe Its three bungalowsare nestled intoafor- getaway orifyou’re anangling aficionado. New MwanzaHotel Tunza Lodge Wag Hill Lodge Wag Hill Lake Hotel Lake St Dominic’s (Makongoro) Hostel St Dominic’s(Makongoro)

( %

LAKE VICTORIA ••Mwanza LAKE VICTORIA

(

% s ( a 250 0517,0617;www.hoteltilaplia Anagreeable anglers’ lodge, %

( 250 0658;StationRd;groundfloor % ) ) Agoodsplurge fora daladala Staid and spartan, this andspartan, Staid 256 2215;[email protected]; Thisthree-star place

250 2445,0744-917974; www ( % 250 1070/1;www.new toIlemela,from Lake Hotel Lake

( % ais 250 0830; 203

)

TANZANIA TANZANIA Mwanza 204 Bismark 4 6 1 3 2 5 MWANZA Rock LAKE VICTORIA ••Mwanza LAKEVICTORIA Capri V ICTORA Point TTCL...... Standard CharteredBank&ATM...... Serengeti Services&Tours...... Post Office...... (see10) NBC Bank&ATM...... Karibu InternetCafé...... Fourways TravelService...... FDS Pharmacy...... (see16) Dolphin Tours&Safaris...... DBK BureaudeChange...... (see8) Barmedas.com...... Aga KhanMedicalCentre...... INFORMATION Saa NaneGameReserveOffice...... ( Mwanz L AKE G ulf) 27 Yacht Club 20 Mwanza AC 7 30 Hill Lodge

To Wag Capri Point Rd Customs Rd Customs 13

Station Rd 21 10 Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ To MwaloniPort(2km); L AKEVICTOR A Hotel La-Kairo(4km); 8 Tunza Lodge(8km); 9 Station 10 ( Mwanz Gulf) Train Airport (10km) Ilemela (8km); 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 23 24

5 D5 B4 B4 C4 B4 B4 B4 A6 D4 B4

Rd 11 22 Kenyatta Kenyatta 31 B 15 Mako EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Street Food...... Salma Cone...... Imalaseko...... (see 9) St Dominic's(Makongoro)Hostel..... New MwanzaHotel...... Lake Hotel...... Kishamapanda GuestHouse...... Hotel Tilapia...... Christmas TreeHotel...... Clock Tower...... Kuleana Pizzeria...... 16 3 ngoro Rd 18 for Children'sRights

4 Bantu St Bantu Kuleana Centre

Post St 29 14 Central Lineto Tabora (350km); Kigoma (780km); Dares Kishamapa 17 nda

Salaam (1200km) St Karuta St Balewa Rd 19 Nkrumah St

12 Kenyatta Rd Kenyatta 2 Temple Hindu Temple Hindu 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 Lumumba Rd 11 Nkomo St B3 A6 C5 B4 A4 B4 C2 B4 B5 C4 32 0.2miles 300m 0 0

Mosque Temple St Temple TRANSPORT Scandinavian BusOffice...... Terminal...... Mwanza NorthPort&LakeFerries Ilemela)...... Local TransportStand(Airport& Local TransportStand...... Kamanga FerryTerminal...... Bus Stand...... Auric AirCharters...... (see3) Akamba BusOffice...... Air Tanzania...... Szechuan Mahal...... Street Food...... Street Food...... Precision Air...... Rwagasore St Sheik Amin Mtakuja M a

Nyerere Rd Nyerere c

Rd 28 Footbridge St h

25 Liberty St Liberty e m b

Uhuru St Uhuru a To MwanzaSouth Port(700m); Kikongo &BusisiFerry (30km); R

d www.lonelyplanet.com Market Shinyanga (150km) 6 26 Sukuma Museum&Bujora Hospital Cultural Centre(20km); Serengeti NationalPark D

(140km); Musoma Mitimrefu St Mitimrefu Pamba Rd To Kisesa(17km); 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 (225km) A3 B4 C5 B4 C5 A4 D5 C4 B4 B4 B5 B4 1 Precision Air Precision and to/fromDaresSalaamBukoba on between MwanzaandRubondo(US$70). between TSh6000; [email protected]; Airport) TSh2000; the clocktower. come here. buildingnear It’sintheCCM near NewMwanzaHotel. forChildren’sKuleana Centre It’s Rights. tures here. Profits gotosupportthenearby juices andmore) andgoodvibesare thefea- fresh-squeezedwiches, yogurt,desserts, near theferry terminals. post office, orthearea alongthetrain tracks For street opposite food,trythestalls Eating www.lonelyplanet.com (Uganda) and Kenya depart from Mwanza boats toPort Bell the airport road. Cargo about 2.5km northof the towncentre off radic smaller boatsleaving fromMwaloni, departures are from NorthPort, withspo- near theclocktower. ForUkerewe, most update. soon; checkto start atNorth Port foran Mwanza andBukobaisplanned between information see p262 service . A speedboat (for RubondoIsland). Forschedule andfare Victoria, includingUkerewe andMaisome islandsin Lake Bukoba andwithseveral Passenger ferries connectMwanzawith BOAT laam on There are to/fromDaresSa- daily flights AIR &Away There Getting food here issomeof Mwanza’sbestcuisine. Chinese put youoff, thedelicately seasoned TSh4000; Point;buffettilaplia.com; TSh4000,mealsfrom Capri and fastfood. icecreamdays localsheadhere forsoft-serve restaurants withpricierálacarte dining. a colddrink.Downstairs are other several towhileawayanafternoon sipping excuse lar weekend lunchtime barbecueisanideal .tz; Kenyatta Rd) .tz; Kenyatta Szechuan Mahal Szechuan Salma Cone Ferries Mwanza NorthPort, toBukobause Hotel TilapiaHotel Kuleana Pizzeria Imalaseko

h h h Air Tanzania dinner) 9am-9pm) lunch &dinner)

(Makongoro Rd) (Makongoro ( .

%

(Bantu St; Coastal Aviation ( If the drab exterior doesn’t Ifthedrabexterior doesn’t %

250 0819;[email protected] ( %

Goodfood(pizzas,sand- 250 0517,0617;www.hotel ( % 40339; Kenyatta Rd;mealsfrom 40339; Kenyatta ( TheTilapia’s popu- % h 256 0566;PostSt;meals For self-catering, Forself-catering, 250 0046; Kenyatta Rd) 250 0046;Kenyatta until 10pm) flies twice weekly fliestwiceweekly

( % 256 0443/1; On hot

depart fromthe of themarket; which andAkambabuses, vian office Express, which departsfromthe near themarket, except forScandinavian All departures are fromthemainbusstand BUS centre; see p260 . South Port,about1.5kmsoutheastof the except there’s no2pmferry onSunday. are twohours every from8amuntil6pm, cle, 20minutes). Departures fromKamanga perperson/vehi-and 6.30pm(TSh300/3600 12.30am, 2.30pm(exceptSunday),4.30pm parts Mwanzadailyat8.30am,10.30am, terminal atMwanzaNorthPort,andde- docks justsouthof ferry thepassenger ernmost andmore reliable Kamanga ferry gerema. There are twoferries. Thenorth- MwanzaandSen- Mwanza Gulfbetween tocrossthe west orsouthwest,you’llneed at Kikongo,about25kmsouthof Mwanza. in theoryuntil10pm.Itseastern terminus is Mtakuja St near Majukano Stnear Mtakuja Hotel. border. four hours); somecontinuetotheKenyan day from6amuntilabout2pm(TSh4000, (TSh6000, eight hours). eight (TSh6000, land), there are direct weekly several buses To Muganza(forRubondoIs- (TSh10,500). direct buses weekly from MwanzatoNgara There Kahamaaretween andBenako). also hoursand Kahama eight be- (TSh6000, and Ngara,it’sjustasfasttogoviaShinyanga Rwanda andBurundiborders. To Benako andNgaraforthe andontoBenako sahunga where there are connectionstoBukoba,Lu- fromtinuing toBiharamulo(TSh6500), one takes theferry or flies. where itgets smoother), andalmostevery- (until yougetand rough toBiharamulo, via Biharamulo. Theroadjourneyislong parting in each direction at6.30am. hours),via Shinyanga de- seven (TSh8000, Kenyan costs, about 30hours), transit visa plus to TSh58,000 es Salaam (TSh44,000 US$20 for aKenyan and Dar transit visa) To gobyroadfromMwanzaanywhere The more southerlyBusisiferry operates To Musoma, buses go throughout the gothroughout To Musoma,buses To Geita, there’sTo Geita, adailybus,usually con- To Bukoba,it’sbest todothetripinstages To Tabora, daily Mohammed Transgoes To Arusha and Moshi (TSh32,000 plus To Arusha andMoshi(TSh32,000

( % LAKE VICTORIA ••Mwanza LAKE VICTORIA 250 3315;Rwagasore St) Akamba office Akamba ( % justsouth 250 0272) Scandina-

, off 205 TANZANIA TANZANIA ent, the Quebecois missionary priest who was built in1969 byDavid Fumbuka Clem- The church inthe centre of thegrounds shape of by Sukumakings. thestoolused and the royal drumpavilion, builtinthe ofdwellings, thehouse atraditional healer traditionalSukuma other things,you’ll see worthwhile daytrip fromMwanza. Among TSh3000; Museum) (Sukuma Centre Bujora Cultural AROUND MWANZA near theclocktower. running alongtheairportroaddepart from southeastofstand, themarket, whilethose (for Bujora),departfromtheBugando Hill andIgoma soma road,includingKisesa Daladalas LOCAL TRANSPORT leave fromneartheclocktower. in a taxi). (TSh5000 Mwanza’s airportis10kmnorth of town TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting LinefromDaresSalaam.See Central p265 . Mwanza istheterminus of abranch of the TRAIN and Uganda. if you’re lucky. depart atabout5amandarrive thenextday viaKahamaweekly andShinyanga. Buses mostly viaBiharamulo,withatleastone Monday andThursday fromMwanza. and FridayfromArusha,at6amon Departures are currently at5amTuesday Area, 15hours). Ngorongoro Conservation entry fees forSerengeti NationalPark and Arusha viatheSerengeti plus (TSh23,000, travels Mwanzaand between twiceweekly –go onCoastLine,which safari fleeting two days),traversed byTawfiq, or–fora and gruellingloopviaSingida(TSh30,000, the route. Alternatively, youcantrythelong best lineisScandinavian. Akambaalsodoes plus KenyanTSh28,000 costs),andthe visa the bestroute to isviaNairobi(TSh23,000 206 Cultural Centre Cultural kuma culture, the If you’re interested inlearningaboutSu- See See p257 and p259 toKenya forbuses To Kigoma,there are three weekly, buses LAKE VICTORIA ••AroundMwanza LAKEVICTORIA h fordestinationsalongtheMu- 8am-6pm Mon-Sat,1-6pm Sun)

(http://photo.net/sukuma; admission Sukuma Museum &Bujora Museum Sukuma Daladalas (TSh150) makes a of thecentre, andno-frills day between 8am and6pm. day between Kibara-Kisoria ferry the runsthroughout Kisorya–Ukerewe ferries take ve hicles; the rewe. BoththeMwanza–NansioandKibara- from where it’sashortboatridetoUke- you canget transporttoKibara-Kisorya, atBunda. FromBunda, soma anddisembark take anyvehicle MwanzaandMu- between without backtracking.Viapublictransport, Musoma ortheSerengeti –orviceversa – Mwanza toUkerewe and thenontowards road, which meansthatyoucango from Ndabaka Gate ontheMwanza–Musoma Bunda, about30kmnorthof theSerengeti’s in 2nd/3rdclass,three hours). and Mwanza’sNorthPort(TSh3500/2000 organise excursions. canhelpyou easy walkfromtheferry. Staff in Ukerewe’s maintown,Nansio,andisan It’slocatedwith simpleroomsandmeals. with shared bathroomTSh3000) for 2kmto3kmtheculturalcentre. Bujora) for BujoraPrimarySchool thesign untilyousee along themainroad walkashortway OnceinKisesa, to Kisesa. fromwhere(TSh250), youcanget apick-up Takethe Musomaroad. a meals canbearranged withadvancenotice. cormorant. Keeping themcompany are and fish eagle, heron, stork, ibis,kingfisher have identified here been including the to400speciesexcellent birding.Close for itslovely tranquil atmosphere and its Victoria’s southwestern corner,isknown Rubondo IslandNationalPark, inLake RUBONDO ISLAND NATIONAL PARK dering aroundandlearningaboutlocallife. healers andbirdlife, andisagreeable forwan- beaten track.It’sknownforitstraditional the away fromMwanza’sdust,andwelloff Ukerewe Victoria,well IslandliesinLake % Ukerewe guide isavailable. AnEnglish-speaking founded themuseum. camping TSh1500;rTSh5600) It’s alsopossibletoreach Nansiofrom Ferries Nansio twicedailybetween sail Bujora isabout of 20kmeast Mwanzaoff Gallu BeachHotel Gallu There’s 028 . Turnleftandfollowthedirtroad camping

(TSh2500) ( % is the best place to stay, isthebestplacetostay, withbucket showers; www.lonelyplanet.com 251 5094;www.gallu.net; daladala onthegrounds (Shule yaMsingi rooms

toIgoma (r perperson 256 2215;www.renair.com; ) Ask discounts. aboutlow-season tripsandfishing. include guidedwalks,boat cuisine andarelaxing ambience. Excursions has alakeside cosyensuite tents, setting, tasty it’s better to bring all essentials withyou. it’s better tobringallessentials There’s afew atinyshopselling basics,but just southof park headquarters (atKagaye). some nicedouble The parkhasanordinarycampsite and Sleeping NationalParks.Mountains much better inGombeStream orMahale are observation of andclose-up sightings your primaryinterest ischimps, thechances organise if chimpanzee tracking.However, anyMwanzatravelthrough agency. bookings are bestdoneviaradio,arranged sport-fishingUS$50 perweek fee. Camp-site per day.Forcampingfees, see p113 . There’s a Park entryfees are US$20/5 peradult/child Information the marshes andreeds alongtheshoreline. phibious’ antelopes thatlike tohideamong ‘am- decades ago),aswellsitatungas, elephants (which were introducedseveral chimpanzees, hippos,crocodilesandeven www.lonelyplanet.com of Rubondo), and Maisome (onMaisome southwest of Rubondo), Nkome (southeast doing this are Muganza(on the mainland park headquarters. Themain villages for where youcan arrange pickup with aboat on thelakeshore opposite Rubondo,from travel byferry orbustooneof thevillages The cheapest waytoreach theparkis to BOAT with Arushaand . connectingRubondo flights has twice-weekly three-/five-seater plane. Aviation Coastal also US$300/450 onewayfromMwanza fora any Mwanzatravel agency. Costsare about Aviation ( p205 ), all inMwanza,orthrough Rd) cnr PostSt&Kenyatta Air Charters Air charters canbearranged through AIR &Away There Getting fishing US$265/460; .flycat.com; s/dfullboardUS$175/280,all-inclusiveexcept Rubondo Island Camp Rubondo IslandCamp Both theparkandRubondoIslandCamp

( %

s 250 0096,0128;www.auricair.com; ) Thisintimate luxurycamp bandas , RenAir

( % onthelakeshore 027-254 4109;www

( % or Coastal orCoastal 028-256 2069, Auric Auric historical outingsinandaroundtown. historical andcanorganisecultural tion onnearbyattractions, an essentialstopifyou’re inBukoba. Theyhaveinforma- and placeoppositethemarket, Sokoine St)Akeyed-in TSh2000; per hour. forTSh600 ern edgeoftown;hasa fastInternetconnection Main postoffice Main Tours Kiroyera Bukoba Cybercafé Information en route to/fromUganda. small-town feel, andmakes anagreeable stop tive waterside andatypicalAfrican setting It’s asmallbutbustlingplacewith an attrac- nia’s second-largest Victoria. portonLake Bukoba, homeof theHaya people,isTanza- % BUKOBA leave yourvehicle attheranger postthere. from Mwanza);ifyou’re driving,youcan road(allowafullday by busviaarough tions; see p262 . Nkomecanalsobereached Maisome, there are occasionalferry connec- few ForbothNkomeand basicguesthouses. If youget stuckhere there forthenight, are a butreasonableMwanza alongarough road. there are from direct weekly several buses ofIsland, justeast Rubondo).ForMuganza, TSh10,000 from MaisomeTSh10,000 toRubondo). willgivecaptains youabetter deal(egabout sions inadvancewithparkheadquarters, the ifyousortoutthepermis- Rubondo, though don’tgenerallyless. Localfishingboats enter negotiating youmaybeabletoget itfor Nkome orMaisome, withsome although from Muganza,anduptodoublethis perboat Plan onpayingaboutTSh40,000 inMuganza.a radioatthepolicestation Tilapia canhelpyoucall,andthere’s also office nearHotel Saa NaneGameReserve this way;inMwanza,travel agencies orthe advance toletthemknowyou’llbearriving government Attheeastern offices. edge of buildings Along the lakeshore are some Sights TTCL NBC and hasanATM. operator-assisted calls. You’ll need toradioparkheadquartersYou’ll need in 028 (Jamhuri Rd)Changes cashandtravellerscheques (Jamhuri ( h h , now housing theuniversity and 7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pmSat)For 7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm) Internetaccess. ( LAKE VICTORIA ••Bukoba LAKE VICTORIA % Oppositethelibraryon thesoutheast- (cnr Jamhuri & Kashozi Rds;perhr &Kashozi (cnrJamhuri 222 0203; www.kiroyeratours.com; 222 0203;www.kiroyeratours.com; colonial-era colonial-era

207 TANZANIA TANZANIA River neartheUganda border. ambo joyed adrinkortwowhenfilming Gardner andFrankSinatrareportedly en- functioning innameonly–where Ava room US$20/30) bath- shared bathroomUS$12/18,larges/dwithprivate Aerodrome Rd;d/trwith [email protected]; 12,000) A popular hotel near theport. Rooms have ELCT Conference &TrainingCentre Conference ELCT BUDGET Sleeping thelaketown near istheold Bukoba 208 Yassila Hotel MIDRANGE the lake – and arestaurant. small ensuite doubles –askforonefacing one singlewith shared facilities,several eastern edge of the port.Ithas townnear lake. Breakfast costsextra. grounds alongthe airportroadnearthe rooms andpleasant with clean,comfortable 1 3 2 BUKOBA To Uganda Spice BeachMotel Mwanza (428km) (80km); LAKE VICTORIA ••Bukoba LAKEVICTORIA Kashura Area(3km) Kolping BukobaHotel(3km); To WalkgardHotel(3km); Precision Air...... Bus Station...... Air Tanzania...... New RoseCafé...... Fido DidoSupermarket...... Cosmopolitan Supermarket...... TRANSPORT EATING inthearea northwestof theKagera This small guesthouse isatthesouth- Thissmallguesthouse Ὀ AC ( % A good, long-standing place Agood,long-standing 222 1251; s/dTSh20,000/30,000; Cathedral Lutheran 14

(

% Tupendane St Tupendane

Kawawa 5 15 222 0142;s/dTSh8000/

Rd

Mosque Ismaili Ὀ Kashozi Rd Kashozi Mosque 15 14 13 12 11 10

Mosque

B2 A2 B2 B2 B2 B2 Tower 1 Clock

M Fupi

Lake Hotel Lake St osque (

% Migeyo St St B Temple Sikh

9 Biashara St 13

222 3121;

10 11

Zamzam St Zamzam Jamhuri Rd Jamhuri 12 Mog- Market 3 a –

Ὀ Sokoine St

) 2 4

Arusha St Cathedral Catholic kolpingtz.com; s/d/ste TSh25,000/30,000/40,000) s/d/ste US$30/40/60; taxi). taxi). centre intheKashura area ina (TSh2500 iently located about3kmfromthetown andtelephone. Thehotel isinconven- TV allcomewithfullbreakfast,vary, though conferences. Checkoutafew rooms,asthey primarily atlocalbusinessclientele and place isBukoba’stopof theline,targeted ing onthewestern side of town. about 300msoutheast of thetelecom build- Its roomscome with fan,netandTV. It’s Walkgard Hotel, this isinthetowncentre. management thatruns Run bythesame taurant serves upgood serves taurant minifridge andair-con,TV, andtheres- arranged. oftenalthough noisier, andmeals can be at theWalkgard,similar value tothose competition. Rooms heregives itstiff are hotel isjustnext toWalkgard Hotel, and grills andotherdishes. Walkgard Annex Walkgard Kolping Bukoba Hotel Kolping BukobaHotel Walkgard Hotel Walkgard To SpiceBeachMotel(200m); Yassila Hotel(500m);

Ferry Port(1.5km) Aerodrome Rd 0.2miles 300m 0 0 7 SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Walkgard Annex...... ELCT Conference&TrainingCentre... University ofBukoba...... Lake Hotel...... Colonial-Era Buildings...... (see7) TTCL...... NBC...... Main PostOffice&Internet...... Kiroyera Tours...... Bukoba Cybercafé......

( ais ( % % 222 0935;s/dTSh20,000/25,000) 222 0935; www.walkgard.com; 222 0935;www.walkgard.com; 6 www.lonelyplanet.com tilapia To Airport(300m) ( % ) 8 This three-star 222 0199;hotel@ VICTORIA (Nileperch) D LAKE 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 This B3 D3 C3 D3 B2 B2 B2 B2 B1 tions are on Jaguar/Dolphin; see p259 . to take theferry or fly. way instages viaBiharamulo, butit’sbetter see p257 . andKigoma;formore Lusahunga between not beaccompanied byanarmedconvoy situation, youmayor on thesecurity onward transport fromthere. Depending it’s faster togoBiharamulo andcatch 12hours), atleast but at 6am(TSh13,500, Biharamulo andKasulu, departing Fridays borders. andtheBurundiRwanda or Benako andfrom thereto Lusahunga, ontoNgara from where youcancatch onwardtransport Rd) ( on (TSh87,000) There are to/fromMwanza dailyflights AIR &Away There Getting New RoseCafé Eating www.lonelyplanet.com (Tupendame St) (Tupendame areoffices atornearthe based mulo. Allthebuscompaniesandtheirticket isTarmacsouth, theroad asfarBihara- the waytoKampala inUganda. Heading you cannowgoongoodTarmac roadsall Bukoba’s roadsare getting aface-lift, and BUS p262. see Bukoba andMwanzaontheMV There between is passenger-ferry service BOAT Bukoba Machinery Bldg; Kawawa Rd) Bldg;Kawawa Bukoba Machinery from TSh3500). from TSh3500). the restaurant atWalkgardAnnex(meals Intown,try andslowservice. nice setting Hotel isalsoagoodchoice, withanequally grilled with lake pepper steak, viewsandtasty town’s maingatheringspot,andwhynot, with inexpensive mealsandsnacks. no Bukobaflights. resentative currently inBukoba, although % To Kampala (Uganda), thebest connec- To Mwanza, youcantry makingyour To Kigoma,there’s direct aweekly bus via godailytoBiharamulo(TSh7000), Buses For self-catering, there’s For self-catering, The restaurant atYassila Hotel isthe or 0748-737259; Global Travel, Jamhuri Rd) 0748-737259; GlobalTravel,Jamhuri Cosmopolitan tilapia .

and other dishes. Spice Beach andotherdishes.SpiceBeach (Jamhuri Rd) (Jamhuri

Precision Air Precision (Jamhuri Rd (Jamhuri Alocalinstitution, ) nearby. Fido Dido .

( Air Tanzania % hasarep- bus station Victoria; 222 0861;

(Jamhuri (Jamhuri

edge of thelake. road fromtheCRDBbanknorth along the sula about1.5kmnorthof town;followthe onanarrowpenin- trucks. Thehotel isset It’s alsothemainstopintownfor overland is ideal,withviewsof andsunset. sunrise small stripof outfront,andthesetting sand Rooms here are reasonably clean,there’s a TSh2000). clean roomsand arestaurant (meals from the eastern edge of townwithbasic but child/student US$3/1/2; Tembo Beach Hotel Sleeping &Eating The Sights more all rubbingshoulders. Luo,Taturuwith theKuria,Jita, andmany ing countrysideisameltingpotof cultures, MwanzaandKenya.between Thesurround- and anagreeable stoppingpointenroute of Victoria,iscapital Lake theMara region Quiet Musoma,ontheeastern shores of % MUSOMA Communications Centre CRDB have ATMs. ForInternet, try andthenearby lers cheques, andbothNBC of themainstreet, changes cashandtravel- s/d 6500/8500) bathroomTSh16,500) bathroom TSh11,000,withprivate a parents. ily homeandthegraves of Nyerere andhis photographs. Nearbyare theNyerere fam- personal andalarge effects collectionof early postindependencedays,Nyerere’s memorabiliafrom Tanzania’sIt contains statesman’s life andinTanzanian history. recommended foranyoneinterested inthe southeast of MusomainButiama,ishighly CRDB. return, includingwaitingtime. Taxis(TSh1000). charge about TSh20,000 from where youcanget transporttoButiama restaurant (meals fromTSh3500). centre. Rooms are good value, and there’s a thelake inthe town tween andthebus stand in amultistorey buildingabout halfway be- Hotel OrangeTree Hotel Afrilux Hotel Afrilux The local NBC branch, fourblockssouth The localNBC Take aminibus toNyasho(TSh1000), 028 ) This slightly garish, modern hotel is Thisslightly Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Museum Mwalimu JuliusKNyerere A modest establishment on Amodestestablishment LAKE VICTORIA •• Musoma ••Musoma LAKE VICTORIA

( % h

262 0031;s/dTSh15,000/20,000; (

% 9.30am-6pm)

( ( % h 262 2887;dwithshared 262 2651; Kawawa St; 262 2651;Kawawa daily) , justupfrom , about45km Musoma Musoma

(adult/ 209

TANZANIA TANZANIA transfers US$230) to/fromMusoma perpersonfullboardplus 8840; www.lukubaisland.com; s/d/ste TSh25,000/33,000/60,000; town centre ontheMakoko road. It’sabout1kmfromthe (meals TSh5000). a 1970ssortof way,andthere’s arestaurant town centre. Roomsare fadedbutplushin stars, isthemainupmarket optioninthe sula, which hovers twoandthree between dinavian Express you canchange toKenyan transport. day toSirariontheKenyan border,where hours). There arethe throughout minibuses four about 6amand2pmdaily(TSh3500, Musoma andMwanza,departingbetween connectFrequent andminibuses buses &Away There Getting 210 rooms. andhas mealsand cleanmain highway, is atthe northern edge of townalong the along the mainMwanza–Musoma highway. from thewestern is Serengeti. Thebusstand from Kenya orUkerewe Island,orcoming ifyou’reprobably passthrough headingto/ Bunda isaminortransport hubthatyou’ll % BUNDA centre. orchickenis goodforplantains andchips. favourite, aroundthecornerfromNBC, required. are equipped fishing.Advancereservations chance forhiking,birding, boatingandfully with wonderfullyrusticbungalows,andthe his days.Itmakes anexcellentgetaway, doubtedly where tospend hewouldchoose retreat inthemiddleof Victoriaisun- Lake weresoe amoneyedangler,thisexclusive departing Musomaat2pm). MusomaandDares Salaam,both between forsemiluxury/luxury (TSh42,000/56,000 its Mwanza–Nairobi–DaresSalaam route near Mara DishesFrys,stopsatMusomaon airfield. town andthe is alongtheroadbetween ofsection Musoma. The thetowncentretween andtheMakoko Peninsula Hotel Lukuba IslandLodge Lukuba CN Motel For self-catering, tryKotrainthetown For self-catering, Mara DishesFrys Mara Daladalas 028 LAKE VICTORIA ••Bunda LAKEVICTORIA

( % run throughout thedaybe- runthroughout 262 1064;small/large sTSh6000/9000)

(

% (

% (meals fromTSh1000) 262 0006) 264 0119, 264 2526; Makoko rd; 264 0119,2526;Makoko

( % as IfRobinsonCru- 0744-090100, 027-254 , withitsoffice daladala ) ThePenin- Thislocal stand Scan- room TSh6000/8000, d with private bathroom TSh12,000) room TSh6000/8000, dwith private but slightly lesspretentiousbut slightly a restaurant. ern edge of town,with anicegarden and the better It’sonthenorth- places tostay. Quieter Hotel, thantheStanley andoneof Legho Singida Motel Legho Singida Sleeping &Eating water birds. attract flamingos,pelicansandmany other Kindai(tothe south)–bothofLake which dani (justnorthof town),andthesmaller granite boulders andtwolakes Singi- –Lake Mt Hanang. and It’s alsoapossibledetourfromBabati Arusha viatherugged southwestern loop. if you’re travelling Mwanzaand between toria, butit’slikely it you’llpassthrough Pretty Vic- Singida iswellawayfrom Lake % SINGIDA (d TSh7000) from TSh20,000; ( an Internet café,bothonthemainroad. bankwithanATM,hub. IthasanNBC and former capacity)andaregional transport and nowoperatingatonlyafractionof its 45km northeastof townnearMwadui, of theworld’slargest diamondpipes(about plete anonymitywere itnotthesite of one Shinyanga wouldlikely berelegated tocom- % SHINYANGA post office,ison the northernsideof town. of bank,nearthe themarket, andanNBC 35,000) 2249, 2763004;s/dTSh10,000/15,000,steTSh25,000/ between 6amand8.30am). between three(TSh3500, departures hours, several 7am, bookinadvance)andtoMwanza Tabora sixhours, (TSh6500, departingby dailyto one way).Mohammed Transgoes DaresSalaamandShinyangatween (US$140 local fare. piping-hot plates of andother riceandsauce something lessexpensive try % Stanley Hotel An The surroundingarea isdotted withhuge include Places tostay Shita’s Precision Airfliesfive be- timesweekly 026 028 276 2458; r with fan TSh15,000, with air-con & TV 276 2458;rwithfanTSh15,000,air-con&TV , near the bus stand, andthe similar , nearthebusstand, Internet café Internet

, nearthebusstation. (meals fromTSh2000) a

( ) % , near the train station. For , nearthetrainstation.

(per hrTSh2000) 250 2351; s/dwith shared bath-

( % www.lonelyplanet.com Mwoleka Hotel Mwoleka 250 2526;rTSh11,500) hasinexpensive, Shinyanga Motel Shellatone Hotel is justnorth

( % 276

bathroom TSh3500, with private bathroomTSh10,000) bathroom TSh3500,withprivate and fries. has theusualassortmentof snacks,chicken good juicesandlocaldishes,whileFlorida be arranged. and neartheNSSFcompound;mealscan building, It’sbehindtheTTCL lic diocese. clean, simpleplacerunbythelocalCatho- both directions about6am(14to20hours). Dar esSalaamviaDodoma,departingin also adailydirect Singidaand busbetween it’s better totake thetrain(see p265 ). There’s to12hours),Singida andDodoma(eight but Mt Hanang). alsorunbetween Dailybuses to break orKatesh thetripatBabati (for to10hours),Arusha (eight butit’sbetter mostly unpaved Singidaand route between There are alongthe at leasttwodailybuses &Away There Getting no-frills roomsandarestaurant. A reliable with placenearthebusstand www.lonelyplanet.com caravan route Tanganyika connecting Lake once amajor trading centre along theold shade of mangoandflame trees – was Tabora townbasking inthe –asleepy % TABORA port choices. train, boatandtruck often theonly trans- rugged travel,facilities andrough, with Wherever yougo,expectminimal tourist freshwaterest andsecond-deepest lake. Tanganyika which istheworld’slong- itself, Park, wildKatavi NationalPark andLake and beautifulMahale National Mountains Gombe Stream NationalPark, theisolated renowned chimpanzee research at station on thecontinent. it’samongthebestspots pristine settings, watching wildlife inoneof Tanzania’s most terested inchimpanzees. Forthis,andfor little todrawyouhere –unlessyou’re in- Linetrainand only bytheagingCentral structure, crossed vasttracklessexpanses tier land,withfew tourists,minimalinfra- The westisTanzania’s remote rough, fron- WESTERN TANZANIA Shana Resort,justwest of themarket, has Social TrainingCentre Highlights includeJaneHighlights Goodall’sworld- 026 ( % 250 3464;swithshared A charge return. aboutTSh7000 about 2kmfurtheronfoot.Taxis fromtown fromwheredrop youattheturn-off, it’s heading towardsKipalapalaandhave them train arrivals. someone aroundtoletyouinfor predawn if you’re travelling bytrain,and there is are accommodating Staff from TSh3500). nets, andthere’s arestaurant-bar (meals and best placeintown.Roomshave TV nicelyrestored,has been andisnowthe edge of townalongBomaRd. good restaurant. It’satthenortheastern Clean, quietrooms (allwithnets)anda ingstone memorabilia. Take any adiaryandotherLiv- ithouses a museum, after inUjiji. beingfoundbyStanley Now bus stand admission TSh1500) Rds; s/dTSh30,000/40,000) Orion TaboraOrion Hotel Sleeping &Eating is About 6kmsouthwestof towninKwihara Sights Africa. East town inGerman was constructed, Tabora becamethelargest and Speke. Linerailway After theCentral andLivingstone,Burtonbly Stanley mostnota- itsportals, through ers passed Tippu Tib. Astringof Europeanexplor- the headquarters of infamousslave trader kingMirambo,aswell famed Nyamwezi early daysasKazeh, itwasthedomainof Knowninits andthesea. with Bagamoyo here. tospend at leastaday you’ll probablyneed and Kigoma;ifyou’re travelling bytrain, linebrancheswhere forMwanza theCentral TSh5000/6000) bathroom with shared bathroomTSh3000, s/twwithprivate try lers cheques, andhasanATM. ForInternet, down on the right, nextto thechurch.down onthe right, behind themarket. Thehostel isabout 300m Head just alongLumumba Stand turnright tre andabout 2.5kmfromthe train station. It’snorthwest offast costs TSh1000. the cen- twin-beddedspartan roomswithnets. Break- Livingstone’s tembe Hotel Wilca Hotel Moravian Hostel Today it’s a useful transportjunctionToday it’sauseful NBC Bank MI Internet Café MI Internet WESTERN TANZANIA ••Tabora .

A good shoestring deal,with Agoodshoestring (Market St) (Market

( % , where in1872 hestayed

5397; BomaRd;s/dTSh7200/8500)

( (Lumumba St) % ( % changes cashandtravel-

Theoldrailwayhotel (flat-roofed Arabic-stylehouse; 260 4369;cnrBoma&Station 260 4710;MwanzaRd; tw , justeastof the daladala 211

TANZANIA ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ

TANZANIA Wsen Tanzania Western 212 Kasoge Makamba Bilenge Kasiha (30km) To Bujumbura To Gitega DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF WESTERN TANZANIA Ujiji (15km) THE CONGO Kibirizi BURUNDI Nyanza-Lac

M Kangwena Kigoma Kagunga WESTERNTANZANIA

o Mitumba Gombe Stream n National Park t

s Rutana

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L a k e T a n g a n y i k a k i y n a g n a T e k a L Kasulu

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Ifume Malagarasi Malambo Kirando

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ River

Mishamo River Katavi Mpanda Lake Namanyere Kasanga Wampembe To Lusaka ZAMBIA (800km) Kalambo Moyowosi Mpulungu To Lusahunga(95km); Reserve Biharamulo (130km); Falls Game Kala National

Katavi

Bukoba (300km) Park Mtambo

Sitalike

Reserve Nyagamoma Rukwa River Game Kalambo Sagara

B8 River Lake Chada

Lake Lake Mbala River Moyowosi ὅὅ ὅὅ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Reserve Kigosi Game ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ Sumbawanga Ugalla

Lukima Game Reserve

River Ugalla River

Kaliua River To Lusahunga Mpui Rukwa

(150km)

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Rungwa River River Katambiki Igombe River Igombe B3

To Lusaka Wala River 60miles 100km 0 0 (900km)

Limba Limba Limba Momba Momba Rukwa Tabora Lake Kipalapala

Kahama

Shama River www.lonelyplanet.com

Tunduma Sikonge River River River Isanga Nzega Kipembawe A104

B6

Shinyanga Kitunda Piti River Piti Nyahua River Dar esSalaam Chunya Mbeya Makongolosi To Karonga (300km); Rungwa To Iringa To Singida B6 (820km) To Singida (290km) (60km) Tukuyu (180km) Mwanza (200km) To

bathroom TSh4000, s/d with private bathroomTSh4000/6000) bathroom TSh4000,s/dwithprivate the trainstation. Rd,justafew Station off minutes walkfrom no-frillsLarge, roomsonasmallsidestreet bus stand. food, andaconvenient location nearthe Run-down butreasonable roomswithfan, Tabora h &SchoolSts;snacksfromTSh500,mealsTSh1000; Market AIR &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com south of town. near themarket. Theairportisabout5km Dar esSalaamandKigoma. Theiroffice is between ora five onitsflights timesweekly Air Precision meals. icecream, andlight plussamosas soft-serve snacks, includingfresh pineapplejuiceand market out bathroom TSh8000/9000, d with TV fromTSh15,000) out bathroomTSh8000/9000,dwithTV Uhuru St Rd Mwanza 1 3 2 TABORA Mayor’s Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlour &IceCream Restaurant Mayor’s Aposele Guesthouse Golden Eagle For self-catering, try For self-catering, breakfast, lunch&dinner) 6

Orion Tabora Hotel...... Moravian Hostel...... Hotel Wilca...... Golden Eagle...... Aposele Guest House...... NBC Bank...... MI InternetCafe...... SLEEPING INFORMATION

Salamini St Rufita (

%

Some MinorRoads St not Depicted

AC ( 260 4327; Jamhuri St) 260 4327;Jamhuri

% Ujiji Rd Ujiji Market

260 4818;Lumumba St) ( % 9

Ng'ambo St 2 260 4623; Jamhuri St;s/dwith- 260 4623;Jamhuri ( 10 4 %

8 Market St Agreat stopfor 1 260 4510;dwithshared 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cash & Carry Super- &Carry Cash C2 A1 B1 A1 C2 A1 B1 . Mosque Gongoni St 11 Precision AirOffice...... Bus Stand&Taxi Stand...... Parlour...... Mayor's Restaurant &IceCream Cash &Carry Supermarket...... TRANSPORT EATING stopsatTab-

Balewa St

Lumumba St B

Manyema St

Jamhuri St Jamhuri Cathedral

Catholic School St School

(cnr Temple Hindu 5

Boma Rd Boma middle of the night, ask the taxi drivermiddle of askthetaxi to thenight, Ifyouarrive inthe onward reservation. the dayinTabora, andtoreconfirm your tospend Kigoma andMwanza,you’llneed Tabora byabout9pm.Travelling between 5am, andtrainsfromDaresSalaamreach from KigomaandMwanzaarrive byabout Mpanda reach Tabora about3am,trains and southtoMpanda;see p265 . Trainsfrom for trainsnorthtoMwanza,westKigoma Tabora Linejunction isthemainCentral TRAIN option isthetrain. ToKigoma,theonly ing thedryseason. dur- bythree weekly tofourbuses serviced only), butit’salongslog,andtheroute is to drive Tabora between andMbeya(4WD means anovernight inNzega. It’spossible then catch this abusontoSingida,though Rovers), bydailyLand and is alsoserviced atNzega(which ing east,youcandisembark 7½hours).tion at6.30am(TSh8000, Head- and Mwanza,departingdailyineach direc- TaboraMohammed Transrunsbetween BUS To Kigoma (350km)

Itetemia Rd Stadium 11 10

9 8 Boma Rd Boma B1 A1 A1 B1 Playing WESTERN TANZANIA ••Tabora St Stephen's Field Church To Livingstone's Tembe Kipalapala (10km); & Kwihara(6km); Rungwa (280km)

7 Coronation Rd Coronation To Mwanza

Station Rd (330km) 3 Playing 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Field Kazima Rd Station Train Dar esSalaam(740km)

Fundikira Rd To Dodoma(340km); German Boma D To Airport To Nzega(95km); Mwanza (350km) Singida (275km); (5km)

Kilimatinde Rd Kilimatinde Hill Rd

213 TANZANIA TANZANIA Chimpanzee Safaris Safaris Chimpanzee Mahale National Parks, Mountains contact boat hire, orvisitsto GombeStream and stock upbefore off. setting oneday);and Mpanda(aboutTSh5000, Uvinza Trucksalsorunbetween (TSh2500). where there are toKigoma dailyminibuses lift withalorryfromUvinza toKasulu, from fora town; expecttopayaboutTSh2500 no regular publictransportto/fromthe Linetrain.There’s Kigoma viatheCentral for Zambia ontheMV for Zambia gration formalities fortravellers departing posted attheportto take care of immi- is Animmigrationofficer details. for visa See roundabout near the trainstation. p252 and There are consulates for Information major refugee centre. rundi, thesurroundingarea hasbecomea of theCongo(DR Congo),RwandaandBu- upheavals innearbyDemocratic Republic railway terminus. Inrecent years, withthe Line own withthebuildingof theCentral by Ujiji tothe south,onlycomingintoits much of Kigoma’spastitwasovershadowed and Mahale NationalParks. Mountains For pointforvisitstoGombeStreamstarting Linetrain,andthebest try ontheCentral of thelineifyou’ve slogged acrossthecoun- Tanzanian Tanganyika, portonLake theend tropical waterside It’sthemajor setting. sprawls alongthelakeshore inagreen and The scrappybutagreeable townof Kigoma % KIGOMA For lodgingtry toarrangeneed apermitattheentrygate. areas. TovisittheUvinza factory,you’ll salt still oneof Tanzania’s major salt-producing centuries,andthetownis for atleastseveral Salt productionhaskept Uvinza onthemap UVINZA around atyourhotel toletyouin. wait untilyou’re sure thatthere’s someone 214 .com) www.chimpanzeesafaris.com) www.chimpanzeesafaris.com) Hotel, or Baby Come ‘n’ Call Internet Café Internet Baby Come‘n’Call shared bathroomTSh5000) Uvinza isabouttwo hours southeastof 028 WESTERNTANZANIA ••Uvinza atAqua Lodge. For Internet access, try DR Congo Sunset Tours (Kaya Rd) (Kaya Sibuondo GuestHouse

( inthetowncentre. % , bothsouthwestof the

( % 280 4435/7, 0741-620154; at Kigoma Hilltop Liemba 280 2408;aqua@cats-net Burundi

(Lumumba St;per hr . Toarrange

(Kakolwa St) (Kakolwa

(r with

Beach the lake isthetiny but attractive tion watch forthestatelyGerman-built ing whenthefishingboatspullin.Intown, of townandbestvisited intheearlymorn- fishing village of duce andisworthastroll,asthecolourful so prices may rise alongwithstandards. so pricesmayrise the port.Thehotel isslated forrenovations, 1km westof town, off Kakolwa Ave andpast a very disco. loudSaturdaynight It’sabout down. There’s areasonable restaurant and lake –buttheroomshave becomequite run overlooking alonglawnslopingdowntothe TSh4000) about 1kmfromthesignpostto left. –is withstones,rather than sand though has anATM. TSh10,000/15,000) Jakobsen’s listing, GuestHouse opposite ). There’s campingatJakobsen’s (see Beach BUDGET Sleeping Kigoma’s lively Sights &Activities TSh3000; sleazy bar. grubby, noisy rooms, bucket baths and a town centre, withaconvenient location, St) train station. train station. Zungu Beach Zungu isabout1.5kmfurthertotheright. sen’s uphill forabout2.5kmtothefork;Jakob- head at asignpostreading ‘ZunguBeach’; roundabout andaskthedriver todropyou a Katonga reportedly bilharzia-free. Toget here, take daily fee of andthelake TSh2000, here is private, butnonmembers itfora canuse down avegetated hillside. Thebeach is ily reached via central Kigomain theMwangaarea andeas- away fromtheroad. It’sabout2kmfrom out afew, and formore quiet,askforaroom being abitoutof town.Roomsvary socheck Clean anddecent value,ifyoudon’tmind 2241) changes cashandtravellers cheques, and Several kilometres southwestofSeveral townon Zanzibar Lodge Lake Tanganyika BeachHotel Tanganyika Lake Kigoma Hotel Kigoma at the base of atthebase Lumumba St. isneartheairport,and (admission TSh3000) Oneof thecheapest places inthe h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat)j daladala

(admission TSh500) This hotel’s setting isideal– Thishotel’s setting Baptist Mission Hospital Baptist Mission

daladala (Lumumba St;rwithshared bathroom

market Kibirizi ( % from the train station fromthetrainstation 280 3306;rTSh3500-9500) , reached viasteps , which is2kmnorth aboundswithpro- www.lonelyplanet.com . ust upfromthe –alsotranquil,

( % NBC 280 4894;s/d Jakobsen’s (Lumumba train sta-

( % 280

Kigoma TSh15,000/18,000) food fromtown. tobring alongyour own you’llneed house, supply. For bothcamping andtheguest- with ablutions, agrill,lanterns andawater TSh6000) (camping peradult night owners runa small campingground entirety. Atthenearby beach, thesame opposite ), andgenerally rented outinits out of townnearJakobsen’s (see Beach locatedThis isaprivate well guesthouse www.lonelyplanet.com Kigoma Hilltop Hotel Hilltop Kigoma MIDRANGE &TOPEND and TV, andarestaurant. and TV, lake, cottages withminifridge comfortable onanescarpmentoverlookingsetting the ais pick-up fromUS$90/140; .com; s/dfull-board&airport opposite theTanesco generator. a restaurant. It’satthewestern edge of town, good-value rooms(breakfast costsextra)and additional adult TSh10,000, electricity perhourTSh2500) additional adultTSh10,000, electricity charge per succeeding nightsTSh45,000/30,000 plusextra [email protected]; accommodationperfamily forfirst/ Zungu Beach(6km) Camp site&GuestHouse(5km); Safaris (2km);Jakobsen'sBeach, Hotel (2km);Chimpanzee To KigomaHilltop 1 3 2 KIGOMA Aqua Lodge Jakobsen’s GuestHouse L akeTngyi RepublicoftheCongo...... Consulate ofBurundi...... Baby Come'n'Call...... Zanzibar Lodge...... Lake TanganyikaBeachHotel...... Kigoma Hotel...... Aqua Lodge...... Sunset Tours...... (see7) Post Office...... NBC &ATM...... Immigration Office...... SLEEPING SLEEPING Consulate ofDemocratic Consulate ofDemocratic INFORMATION INFORMATION ) Kigoma’sbesthotel, withaprime AC ( % A long-standing placewithA long-standing 280 2408;[email protected];s/d

( % Generator 280 4435/6/7;www.kigoma Tanesco

( % 0741-534141; ferie 10 10 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 9 9 8 8 7 7 D2 B1 C1 B1 D1 D1 C2 C2 D3 D3 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 B 9 Precision Air...... Ferry Port...... Daladala &TaxiStand...... New Stanley...... Ally's...... TRANSPORT TRANSPORT EATING EATING Gombe StreamNationalPark(2km) To Kibirizi&LakeTaxisto 14

Stanley Rd Shree Hindu and beans),or dinner) disco forpostmealentertainment. chicken/fish plusapopular andotherstaples, price andambience,withreasonable grilled about 5kmsoutheast of thetown centre. Kigoma andKigali (Rwanda).Theairportis Parks, aswell asregular charters between with Mahale and Katavi Mountains National connecting KigomawithArusha,and weekly Safaris ( opposite charter) hasseveral flights Air Precision Salaam andKigoma,usuallyviaTabora, on There are Dares between five weekly flights AIR &Away There Getting New Stanley Eating Kigoma and Mpulungu (Zambia); see see Kigoma andMpulungu (Zambia); p260 . The venerable MV Lake Ferries BOAT ite, with pipinghot Kaya Rd

Mandir Kakolwa Ave Kakolwa Ally’s This is several steps upfromAlly’sin Thisisseveral 3 (Lumumba St;mealsTSh1000) Station WESTERN TANZANIA ••Kigoma Train 15 15 14 14 13 13 12 11 11 (

2 8 % (Kakolwa Ave;(Kakolwa mealsTSh2500; D2 D2 B1 B1 D2 D2 C1 C1 C2 C2

12 Lumumba St Lumumba 280 4720,3166) ugali Kiezya Rd 1 11 400m 0.2miles 0 0 Uvinza (140km) 5 Market To Ujiji(7km); andsauce. Liemba 6 wali maharagwe Hospital Maweni 15 13 Mwanga

1.5km Area 10 plies between plies between Alocalfavour- (300m); Kasulu(95km) . Chimpanzee . Chimpanzee

Hospital (1km); To MwembeTogwa D Catholic 4 Church Airport (3km) To Baptist h Mission lunch & (rice

215 TANZANIA TANZANIA lorry. public transportapartfromtheoccasional there’sthe rainsaswell),though nodirect (andsometimes during ing thedryseason 10hours).departing at5.30am(TSh13,500, goingviaKahamaweekly andShinyanga. there’sand Biharamulo,though usuallyone at least20hours). MostgoviaLusahunga departing Kigomaabout5.30am(TSh15,000, centre towardsMwandigo. Salaam, Mwanza orTabora. See p265 . LinetrainfromDares the ageing Central inontheMV from sailing The classicwaytoreach Kigoma(apart TRAIN to theleft,ortake a fromwhereturn-off, it’sabout500mdown town; followtheUjiji roadtotheairport Mwembe Togwa,about3kmsoutheastof departfrom All of buses thelong-distance BUS inataxi). (TSh1500 for about2km the topandcontinuestraight road uphillpastthepostoffice,turnleftat way tracksnorth.Alternatively, followthe 2km northof Kigoma;justfollowtherail- butatKibirizivillage, about Kigoma itself, don’t stop at people andproduce. Thetaxis comforts, andare usuallyoverflowing with sive, butoffer noshadeorothercreature Stream NationalPark. They’re inexpen- rundi border,includingastopatGombe along thelakeshore asfar northastheBu- lake connectvillagesSmall, motorised ‘taxis’ Lake Taxis p260. Kigoma andBujumbura(Burundi),see For informationonconnectionsbetween 216 den. Nearbyare two mango trees, which are asmall gar- in awalled compound near set edly occurred iscommemorated by aplaque encounterStanley’s with Livingstone alleg- ‘Dr Livingstone, Ipresume?’ The site where utteredMorton Stanley hisfamouslycasual the spotwhere explorer-journalist Henry villages, earneditsplaceintravel lore as Tiny Ujiji, oneof Africa’s oldestmarket UJIJI The roadtoMpandaisquite feasible dur- To Bukoba,there weekly, are buses several To Mwanza,there are three weekly, buses WESTERNTANZANIA ••Ujiji daladala Liemba fromthetown ) iswith free, donationappreciated) ior parkwarden travel agencies, ordirectly the through resthouse Kigoma canbe madethrough ted inthepark.Bookings forthehostel and Children are aged under seven notpermit- day. Guidescost US$20 pergroupday. Entry fees are US$100/20peradult/child per Information allow atleasttwo daysforavisit. bush pigs.Ifyou’re aboutchimps, serious monkeys, bushbucks,vervet baboonsand includecolobusand animals youmaysee times get towithin5mof thethem.Other are almost guaranteed, andyoucansome- well habituated, which thatsightings means is nowinitsfifthdecade. was declared anationalpark.Goodall’sstudy of andin1968Gombe wildchimpanzees, Janesearcher Goodallarrived tobegin astudy in1943.In1960Britishre-a wildlife reserve a fascinatingplace. interestedworld and,forthose inprimates, study of anywildanimalpopulationinthe It isalsothesite of thelongest-running Stream isTanzania’s smallestnationalpark. With anarea of only52sqkm,Gombe % NATIONAL PARKGOMBE STREAM encounter. There’s alsoasmall tree thatshadedthetwomenduring their tohavesaid grafted fromtheoriginal been beach near thecentre of thepark, which is tivities are southof here atKasekela, onthe (TSh150). connected thedayby throughout street isUjiji’s beach andsmalldhowport. the Livingstonecompoundalongsame visit ifyou’re inthearea. About 500m past ji’s formersignificance,butit’sworthashort building centre. Littleremains todayof Uji- was builtatKigoma),andasamajor dhow- itlostonlyafterstatus therailwayterminus intheregionnence asthemainsettlement (a Prior toLivingstone,Ujiji enjoyedpromi- sure youget place. offattheright ingstone andthe road comingfromKigoma;justaskforLiv- site issignpostedof totheright themain by localartistsof Livingstonescenes.The Gombe’s approximately 150 chimps are The Gombe Stream area wasgazetted as Ujiji isabout8kmsouthof Kigomaand 028

( % daladala 280 2586) housing afew pictures www.lonelyplanet.com . Alltourism ac- driver willmake museum daladala

(entry sen-

transport-accommodation deals. Hilltop Hotel inKigoma,andtheyhave tracking thechimps. It’srunbyKigoma comforts attheendof day ahard,sweaty makes agoodsplurge ifyouwantsome tumba inthenorthernpartof thepark,and This relaxing campisonthebeach atMi- what nicer www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/dall-inclusiveUS$500/800) www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; You canalso has nets;bothare onthebeach atKasekela. There isa Sleeping aren’t permitted. intheforest, filmforuse asflashes speed Bringhigh- where todisembark. you’llneed www.lonelyplanet.com ond night onwards), both inKigoma.ond night stopovera US$50 pernight fee from the sec- return forupto20 passengers, perboat plus over fee) andKigomaHilltop Hotel (US$400 stop- 15 passengers, plusaUS$80per night Toursset (US$200 return perboatforupto toget business. inaneffort taxis, try toconvinceyou thatthere are nolake common practice forlocalboatowners to until youhave arrived backinKigoma. It’s price),but don’tpaythefullamount total should notbemore thanone-thirdof the have topayanadvanceforpetrol (which will beexpensive. Forareturn trip,youmay besieged withoffers this todoso–although fishermen tocharter aboat–andyou’llbe if travelling bypublictransport). atthepark tospendtwonights you’ll need pass Gombearound8am(which means to fourhours). ReturningtoKibirizi, they three3pm MondaytoSaturday(TSh1000, Kibirizi ( opposite aboutnoonand ) between depart from taxis boat orlake Lake taxi. The onlywaytoreach Gombeisbycharter &Away There Getting from Kigoma. bringwhatever you’llneed Otherwise, staff. arrange inexpensive grilledfish mealswith a few basics,andit’ssometimespossibleto quarters, northof Kasekela, drinksand sells storing food.Asmallshopatparkhead- tohave for you’ll need container ametal ofbecause thedanger frombaboons,and don’trecommend it parkstaff although Fast Sun- boatscanbeorganised through Alternatively, youcanarrange withlocal Gombe LuxuryTented Camp hostel resthouse camp

(per personUS$10)

(camping US$20)

(per personUS$20)

( % onthebeach, andasome- WESTERN TANZANIA Mountains NationalPark ••Mahale 280 4435/6/7; , which

person perday. per group;fishingpermitscostUS$50 riving independently.Guidefees are US$20 parkheadquarterscontact ifyou’llbear- ( p215 ) inKigoma,which can alsohelpyou (site of theparkcampsite and corner. About 10km southof here are Kasiha are at Bilenge inthepark’snorthwestern tracking walks. 12 years are not permitted on chimpanzee- upmarket travel agencies. Children under forts. The campcanonlybe booked through showers mean youstillhave allthecom- ning water, solarpowerandbush although tented Accommodation isinsixrusticthatched for nootherreason thanthatit’ssoremote. what isprobably theultimate if getaway, clusive offers camp onKangwena Beach There isapark Sleeping Kigoma) the through andpark Camping aren’tunder seven permitted inMahale. day. Forcampingfees see p113 . Children Entry fees are US$80/30peradult/child per Information thelionsarethough seen). seldom somelions(al- zebrasandeven buffaloes, of about700chimps, plusroanantelopes, with apopulation a chimpanzee sanctuary, Stream tothenorth,Mahale isprimarily zania’s mostisolated park.Like Gombe remoteness are thedrawsat Mahale –Tan- lenging wildlife watching andunrivalled backed bylushlyforested chal- mountains, Clear, bluewaters, beaches white-sand MOUNTAINSMAHALE NATIONAL PARK least afew dayshere comesawayrewarded. whospendsat almosteveryone although they’re atGombe, notasaccessiblethose focal pointsof research are wellhabituated, all-inclusive US$505; of quite nicedouble there’s nothingavailable inthepark. fromKigoma,as For both,bringeverything flashes aren’t permitted. intheforest; filmfor use Bring high-speed (withtwo upscalecamps). Kangwena Beach Park headquarters, where fees are paid, While thecommunitiesthathave been Mahale Camp Mahale , or through KigomaHilltopHotel, orthrough bandas senior parkwarden

withoutelectricity orrun- (www.nomad-tanzania.com; perperson camp site h mid-May–mid-Mar) bandas bandas

(US$20)

(US$20) canbebooked andacluster bandas

(PO Box1374, atKasiha. Thisex-

) and

217 TANZANIA TANZANIA the arrange apick-up.KigomaHilltop Hotel and headquarters inadvancefromKigomaand about 2amor3am.It’sbetter toradiopark asthe not advisable quarters, abouttwohours furthersouth,but continue withsmalllocalboatstoparkhead- it’spossibleto from Kigoma).FromLagosa, 20/15 in1st/2nd/3rdclass,about10hours Mugambo), tothenorthof thepark(US$25/ building. Slightly cheaper,building. Slightly but lessconven- take thefirst leftand lookfor themultistorey followthetracks totheend, then station, the southern edge of town; fromthetrain It’salongthe Sumbawangaroad at taurant. has cleanrooms with nets,andaslowres- hale Camp. and makes agood-value alternative toMa- doubletents, Ithassix comfortable Camp. Kangwena andabout1kmnorthof Mahale Hotel inKigoma,isonthebeach northof The MV BOAT oma, ArushaandKatavi NationalPark. charter connectingMahale flights withKig- Kigoma HilltopHotel runstwice-weekly AIR Kigoma, andisreachable byplane or boat. Mahale isonthe lake about130kmsouthof &Away There Getting 800) s/dall-inclusiveUS$500/ 6/7; www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; 218 point forvisitsto Katavi NationalPark. Mpanda isof interest mainly asastarting % MPANDA the better. ComingfromMpulungu (Zambia), way, youmaybeabletonegotiate something aboatupany- iftheparkissending although boat (foruptoabout15people,one way), the radiocall.TheparkboatcostsUS$50 per to three daysatthepark. to US$2000perboatreturn, includingtwo Tours inKigoma)costfromabout US$1200 KigomaHilltopHotelthrough or Sunset morning around3amor4am. late andearlySunday Saturday evening Nkungwe LuxuryTentedNkungwe Camp Super CityHotel Boat charters fromKigoma(arranged 025 Nkungwecamp,runbyKigomaHilltop Liemba WESTERNTANZANIA ••Mpanda Liemba Liemba passes Lagosa sometime between sometimebetween Lagosa passes office inKigomacanhelpwith stops at Lagosa (alsocalled stopsatLagosa

( % Liemba 282 0459;s/dTSh3500/5000) reaches Lagosa reaches Lagosa

( % 028-280 4435/

s/d withshared bathroomTSh2500/3000) quarters quarters day. For camping fees see p113 . Entry fees are US$20/5 peradult/child per Information animals. tosee guaranteed have andare theplace toyourself, almost receives very few visitors. You’llprobably attractions,Katavipletely underpublicised remaining of poolsinsearch water. makelions, zebras,giraffes theirwaytothe elephants, up andhuge herdsof buffaloes, to life inthedry,whenriver andlakes dry hippos, crocodilesandbirds.Thepark comes lakes of which supportlarge populationsof andthe seasonal park’s northernsection, ofgrassy expanses which cover much of the feature isanenormousfloodplain,thevast, unspoiled wildernessareas. Itspredominant zania’s third-largest parkandoneof itsmost Katavi, 35kmsouthwestof Mpanda,isTan- to Tabora andwaitthere. and littletodo,mosttravellers continueon junction, butasthere are few guesthouses KaliuaMpanda, youcanuse asthetransfer you’re headingtoKigomaorMwanzafrom Mpanda withTabora viaKaliua; see p265 . If A branch Lineconnects of theCentral TRAIN the are usuallytimedtocoincidewitharrivalsof this area), there are occasionallorries,which TanganyikaIkola (themainLake portsin is thebestoptiontoKigoma. allowatleast12hours. Train the dryseason; Kigoma fairlyregularly, especiallyduring and Saturday,after waitingforthetrain. hours) bynoononTuesday,Thursdayseven departs MpandaforSumbawanga(TSh7500, in frontof Super CityHotel. Sumrybusline Sumbawanga departinthemorningsfrom RoversLand toKatavi NationalPark and BUS &Away There Getting iently located, is bucket baths. of thecentre, with no-frills rooms,mealsand Because of itsremoteBecause location andcom- From MpandasouthwesttoKarema and Trucks plytheroute towardsUvinza and Liemba ([email protected]) ferry. Moravian Hostel , for hut bookings and www.lonelyplanet.com , justnortheast

( % Park head- 282 0187; 700) s/dall-inclusive US$410/ 237422; www.tanzaniasafaris.info; Bring allprovisions withyou. about2kmfromparkheadquarters.house, road, andthesix-bed Rest- ChiefNsalamba site, just westof theSumbawanga–Mpanda Katavi ChadaandLake near Lake Camp- cluding thewell-situated ChadaCampsite There are ordinarycampsites, in- several Sleeping flybites. against tsetse very contrastingorvery dark),asprotection other drabshades(avoid anythingbright, preferablyshirts andtrousers, or inkhaki any visit,bringalongthick,long-sleeved are permitted withanarmedranger. For US$100) plusguidefees. Walkingsafaris of US$1perkilometre (minimumcharge atarate if theyaren’t bystaff, beingused northern edge. Park vehicles canbehired, about 1.5kmsouthof Sitalike, onthepark’s entry-fee payments,isjustoff themainroad, www.lonelyplanet.com the country, and makes stopping auseful altitude inthe farsouthwestern corner of on thefertile Ufipa Plateau atabout1800m ofThe peppy capital theRukwaregion isset % SUMBAWANGA are inMpandaandSumbawanga. you are petrolstations driving,the closest Hitching isnotpermitted in thepark.If can bearranged (bestdoneinadvance). will dropyouatthe gate, where vehicle hire and Mahale NationalPark. Mountains connecting Katavi withKigoma,Arusha ( p214 charter Chada. Safarisnear Lake ) runstwice-weekly Chimpanzee flights Mpanda, Sitalike andatIkuuranger post There are airstrips forcharter in flights &Away There Getting upscaletravelthrough agencies. rustic atmosphere. Itcanonlybebooked doubletents andanunbeatably just seven with connoisseur, ruggedly inclinedsafari Mar) setting nearIkuurangersetting post. person all-inclusiveUS$445; Sitalike village, just outsidetheparkgate. Chada Katavi Camp Chada Katavi Buses between Mpanda andSumbawanga between Buses WildlifeCamp Katavi Katavi Hippo Garden Hotel Garden Hippo Katavi 025 An absolute must for the well-heeled, Anabsolute mustforthewell-heeled, A comfortable, rusticcampinaprime A comfortable,

(www.nomad-tanzania.com; per

h

( % Jun-Oct &mid-Dec–mid- Jun-Oct

(r perpersonUS$30) 0748-237422, 0744- In r TSh20,000) bathroom aboutTSh2000) to theRegionalBlockarea. 1km fromthetowncentre alongtheroad rooms andinexpensive meals.It’sabout doubles asSumbawanga’smainnightspot. isthatit advantage (ifyouwanttosleep) southeast of Themaindis- thebusstand. TSh6500) (TSh1500 in a taxi fromthebusstand). inataxi (TSh1500 area, pasttheMoravian Conference Centre town onNyerere RdintheRegionalBlock also hasagoodrestaurant. It’s2kmfrom about four hours ineach direction. a lifttowards thefalls,and thenwalkfor falls from Kasanga; tolook for you’llneed surrounding area. It’spossible toreach the chaeological findshave madein the been significantStone AgeAfrica. Several ar- single-dropwaterfall insecond-highest border,isthe Sumbawanga on the Zambian The 250m Kalambo Falls, southwest of FALLS &KALAMBO KASANGA fees ifyouare justintransit. Park, topaypark it’snotnecessary though Katavi through National The roadpasses about7am (TSh8500). main roadstarting onthe departing fromthepetrolstation hours). There Rovers are alsodailyLand seven Wednesday andFriday(TSh7500, departing Sumbawangaat1pmon Monday, in advance).ToMpanda,Sumryhas buses sixhours,6am and7am(TSh8000, book bia), departingineach direction between and SumbawangaviaTunduma(for Zam- Mbeya rundailybetween Sumry linebuses &Away There Getting Centre Moravian Conference Sleeping &Eating becomes twolakes duringthedryseason. Rukwa( the vast,shallowLake p232 ), which of Sumbawanga, belowtheescarpment,is or MbeyaandKatavi NationalPark. East point ifyou’re travelling Zambia between meals justopposite UpendoViewHotel. Kasanga. ecutive s/dTSh10,000/20,000) atma.co.tz; Nyerere Rd;standards/dTSh5000/10,000,ex- Upendo View Hotel Upendo View Forestway CountryClub Forestway Sim’s Restaurant There’s avery basic WESTERN TANZANIA ••Sumbawanga Cleanandcentrallylocated, just Sumbawanga’sonlyproperhotel

(Kiwelu Rd; meals TSh1000) (Kiwelu in the Muzei section ofin the Muzei section

( % guesthouse

Clean,good-value ( ( % % 280 2242; Kiwelu Rd;d 280 2242;Kiwelu 280 2800;Nyerere Rd; 280 2853/4;confcen@

(r withshared Cheap

219 TANZANIA TANZANIA wake youintimeto disembark. to out withoutmuch warningsoaskstaff buttheboatpulls onboard, allowed tostay often remains atthedockuntildawn.You’re theboat and6am,although midnight tween Liemba bawanga andKasanga, the andabusmeets clothes that are sizestoo big. several get thefeeling thatthetownisdressed in slow-paced reality of daily life –it’seasyto buildings –allsharply contrastingwiththe chitecture of many church andgovernment street layout andtheimposingar-grandiose a badplacetospend adayortwo. With its here, ifyoufindyourself However, it’snot country. tioned politicalandeconomiccentre of the and DaresSalaamremains theunques- supplies andaninadequate economicbase, unrealistic water dueinparttoinsufficient to move here bythemid-1980s.Thisproved abandoned –thegovernment wassupposed cording totheoriginalplan–long since of partysince1973.Ac- therulingCCM Tanzania’sbeen andheadquarters capital Dodoma, inthe centre of thecountry, has % DODOMA there’sthe way,although much of interest. fewto orfromMalawi stopalong orZambia, While manytravellers enroute passthrough wildflowers onthehillsidesduringrains. ing, atemperate climate andaprofusion of with wide,rollingpanoramas,goodhik- border inthewest.It’savery scenicarea, andtheZambian Nyasa in theeastandLake chain Morogoro tainous running between designate theentire region alongthemoun- into Malawi. to Inthisbook theterm isused Iringa andMbeya,extend southwards Makambako Gap,about halfwaybetween beginat theSouthernHighlands Officially, HIGHLANDS THE SOUTHERN 220 laam) roadheads west into the centre of the main (Dar esSa- From thebus stand, Information Trucks go sporadically between Sum- Trucks gosporadicallybetween There’s littlereason tocomeDodoma. 026 THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Dodoma arrivals. These are arrivals.These anywhere be- has anATM. oftheIsmailimosque. north Mon) OneblockeastofKuuSt,andaboutthree blocks h Fri) with TV TSh10,000) with TV ofFoodJunction. northeast 8pm Mon-Sat,9am-noonSun)Onasmallsidestreet just costs extra. mosquito nets,andbucket baths. Breakfast to theAnglican church), roomswith tatty tral location(atthe mainroundabout,next most convenient budget lodging,withacen- TSh4500/9000, rwith shared bathroomTSh4500) Council ofTanzaniaChristian BUDGET before findingaroom. to tryseveral ifyouneed don’t besurprised so parliamentisinsession, up whenever baths atthecheaper hotels. Also,hotels fill Water suppliesare erratic,soexpectbucket Sleeping The Sights &Activities Café RAL Internet NBC Café Internet Aladdin’s Cave Hospital Khan Aga in mostareas of town. ment buildings,photographyisprohibited of Dodoma’smanygovern-shops. Because est partof town, withthemarket andlotsof small avenues KuuStintothebusi- runoff small dustylanes.Tothenorth,awarren of tracks, after which turnsinto everything about. Justsouthof here are therailway town where KuuStatalarge itmeets round- net, and analmost exclusively male clientele. ok r (p187). art rock Kolo (180kmnorth)anditscenturies-old passport along. whenthey’re bringyour insession; observe off theDaresSalaamroad.It’spossible to ern complexontheeastern edge of townjust New DodomaHotel. formation ontheentire country.It’sbehind ya Madini; roundabout. h contains rock samples andgeological rocksamples in- contains Kibo Peak Guest House Kibo Dodoma is also a good springboard to Dodoma isalsoagoodspringboard The 9.30am-1pm &3.30-8.30pmTue-Sun, 9.30am-1pm 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun) Just north ofthemain 8am-9pm Mon-Sat,2-9pmSun)Justnorth (KuuSt)Changescashandtravellerscheques, Museum ofGeosciences Museum Parliament

adult/child TSh500/100; Clean rooms withfan and (KuuSt;per80minTSh1000; ( (Bunge % 232 1789; Sixth St; 232 1789;Sixth

) is housed inamod- ) ishoused www.lonelyplanet.com ( %

(per hrTSh1000; (Nyumba ya Mayonyesho (Nyumba yaMayonyesho (CCT; (CCT; h 232 2902;s TSh7000, 8am-3.30pm Mon- % 232 1682;s/d h 8am- The Ὀ Suhr Highlands Southern The cheapest recommendable option near pwa Rd;d TSh10,000) Rooms have netsandsmall doublebeds. from Kibo Peak, and of similar standard. www.lonelyplanet.com off MpwapwaRd (reached viaKuuSt). It’s about1kmnorth of themainroundabout Rukwa Tunduma Lake

Rungwa THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Yarabi Salama Dodoma BlueGuest House ZAMBIA Ngomba Sikonge Saza Tabora Kitunda Mbalizi Ngozi Peak River (2629m) Songwe River B6 Mbeya Bay (30km) Tukuyu To Nkhata Bridge A7 Kipembawe

Ibanda Mt Rungwe (r with shared bathroom TSh2500) Justaround thecorner (2960m) Karonga Rungwa MALAWI Livingstonia Bulongwa ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

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Mbinga Gap Mafinga Peramiho

Tosamaganga Kitai B4 Idodi Kalenga New Dodoma Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND of KuuSt. west of and twoblockseast thebusstation, It’sabouta10-minute walk the busstation. way St; s/dwith fanTSh45,000/55,000, deluxe s/d with Rail- 1641; [email protected]; DODOMA Mufindi THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Dodoma To Arusha Little Ruaha Reservoir (252km) Mtera ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ

Songea River Isimila Iringa Migole Nyangolo Makutapora A104 Meia Kondoa Ilula Kolo Ki lo Makatapora

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e B129 Mbuyuni A19 r o A7 Ruipa Luhombero

V (2579m) a Mpwapwa 60miles 100km 0 0 l l River e National Park y (Dodoma Rock Hotel; Mountains Udzungwa Udekwa ὈὈ ὈὈ Kongwa Lupiro Kidatu Ifakara Mikumi Mahenge Kilosa Uonga Mang'ula

Mbarangandu River Sanje Kilombero

National Park Great Mikumi Kwadihombo To DaresSalaam M asi Tunduru S tep Morogoro

Rufiji River Bunduki Ruaha Kipera Mgeta Reserve Selous Game % (160km) (195km) Kibaoni

Masasi

Kisaki River

Uluguru 221

232 To Mtns TANZANIA TANZANIA of the centre off the DaresSalaamroad. It’sabout 2kmeast (meals fromTSh4000). rooms, professional andarestaurant staff hotel the standard scene,withsimple,clean dinner buffet (mealsfromTSh5000). dinner buffet restaurant withagood-value, ifuninspired, large roomsanda innercourtyard,pleasant now Dodoma’smostupscaleoption, witha renovated Hotel hasbeen Railway andis air-con Dodoma 222 option ifyou have yourown transport; it’s rooms anda smallgarden. It’s mainly an 14,000; bathroom TSh13,000/17,000) private % (250km) To Singida 4 1 3 2 DODOMA Humble House National Vocational Training Centre National Vocational TrainingCentre 232 2181;swithshared bathroom TSh8500,s/dwith THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Dodoma Cathedral TSh60,000/70,000; Catholic i To Iringa (275km) ) AB&B-style placewith spotless AC Market

A104 ( Rd Bahi % Ndovu Rd To Kondoa(160km); 235 2261;Area E;s/dTSh12,000/ Majengo Market ais Arusha (455km) Kolo (180km); Analternative to School Ave

Kinyonga Ave

A104

) St Tenth Umoja Ave Theformer Rd Hospital Mwanza Ave Stadium Jamhuri

Askari Rd Mwangaza Ave Ninth St Ninth B

(NVTC, VETA;(NVTC, Madaraka Ave

6 Anglican St Eighth

Church Tem A REC Seventh St Seventh 13

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Kondoa Rd Kondoa

Ave 7 Sixth St Sixth Cathedral Lutheran 1

Kuu St 2 3 11 Mosque Ninth St;sTSh12,000,d TSh18,000-20,000;steTSh40,000) & dinner) east of KuuSt,northof theIsmaili mosque. fresh icecream on Monday).It’sone block icecream andothersnacks (no soft-serve Small, sterile roomsand arestaurant. cluding yogurt anda few vegetarian dishes. Aladdin’s Cave Eating east of town. from theDaresSalaamroadabout 2.5km E (alsoknownasIpagala),andsignposted buried awayinamazeof dirtlanesinArea Mon, 9.30am-1pm&,3.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun) Ismaili

16

Mbeya Ave Mbeya

Tabora Ave Tabora Mwanza Ave Mwanza

Swahili Restaurant Swahili Cana Lodge Cana Airfield Arusha Ave Arusha

14 12 Moshi Ave Moshi

Mosque

M Lindi Ave Lindi

Boma St Sunni pwapwa Rd pwapwa Stand Daladala Jamatini

Indian snacks and standard fare, Indian snacks andstandard in- Kikuyu Ave Kikuyu 8 9 (snacksTSh500-1500;

( % SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Scandinavian BusStation...... New VictoryHotel...... Bus Stand...... Swahili Restaurant...... Food Junction...... Aladdin's Cave...... Yarabi Salama...... New DodomaHotel...... Kibo PeakGuestHouse...... Dodoma BlueGuestHouse...... Christian CouncilofTanzania...... Cana Lodge...... Parliament...... Museum ofGeosciences...... RAL InternetCafé...... Aga KhanHospital...... B T...... C2 NBC &ATM...... TRANSPORT EATING 4 1km 0.5miles 0 0 232 1199; [email protected]; 232 1199;[email protected];

(meals from TSh1500; Station Train 10 www.lonelyplanet.com To HumbleHouse(2km); Dar esSalaam(475km) Training Centre(700m) To NationalVocational h Milkshakes, D 9.30am-1pm 15 h 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 17 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C3 D4 C3 B3 C3 C3 D4 C2 C2 B4 B3 D4 C4 C3 B3 D4 B129 lunch 5

are often full. they aboutnoon, although main busstation from DaresSalaamthatpassDodoma’s hours) at leasteight coming(TSh5000, p265 there). Otherwise, are buses through you canget onwardtransporttoKolo. fourtofive(TSh4000, hours), fromwhere departing dailyaboutnoonforKondoa fromDodoma’smainbusstand has buses at 3.30am.Alternatively, Satellite Coach line Kolo are onSunday,TuesdayandThursday urday. Intheotherdirection, departures from Kuu Stat6amMonday,WednesdayandSat- a busdepartingfromNewVictoryHotel off see tapora; p228 . the DaresSalaamroad. their terminal about 1kmeastof townalong sixhours,ordinary/luxury andtaking from 11am (ordinary),costingTSh7500/10,000 in each direction at9.15am(luxury)and Scandinavian Express hasdailydepartures BUS &Away There Getting h north of the DaresSalaamroad. It’s neartheroundabout,andoneblock www.lonelyplanet.com main roundabout,westof KuuSt. the rice, andvariousIndiansnacks.It’snear spot forbudget meals,withchicken and To Singida, it’s best to take the train (see To Singida,it’sbesttotake thetrain(see there’s andKolo(TSh5500), To Kondoa To Iringa,there’s adailybusviaMaka- Food Junction nearby. Another possibility from town is the hike to nearby. Anotherpossibility fromtownisthehike building. It’spossible tocamphere withyourowntent andsupplies;there’s asmallwaterfall degraded forest before reaching more heavily vegetated highlandareas andtheMorningside Rd. Fromhere, totheright through smallfarmplotsand atrackleads uphill andthencurves Regional Administrationbuildingsabout3kmsouthofthetowncentre atthe endofBoma the southoftownatabout1000m(about twotothree atthe hoursonfoot). The pathstarts joyable hiking. Africa, andwhileitis muchdepleted thesedays,therangeisgreen andscenic,offers en- The Uluguru Mountainssoutheastof Morogorocontainsomeoftheoldestoriginal forest in HIKING INTHEULUGURU MOUNTAINS for saleat the tains, publishesthehelpful Project, Biodiversity Conservation in theimmediate vicinity(aboutfive hoursreturn). on Contents, 4).The then onSection WCST office isthebest placeto arrange aguide. centre click ofMorogoro, orcanbedownloaded forfree (www.africanconservation.com/uluguru; 8.30am-3.30pm &6.45-10pmMon-Sat) From Morogorothemostpopularroute isto The Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania (WCST), togetherwiththe UluguruMountains The SocietyofTanzania Wildlife Conservation (WCST), withdetailed route descriptionsand accommodation infofortheseand otherroutes. It’s

WCSToffice (Tembo Ave;(Tembo mealsfromTSh1000;

( % 023-261 3122; 1stfl,BodiyaPamba Bldg,OldDar esSalaamRd) A popular Morningside THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Morogoro TSh10,000, rwithshared bathroomTSh7000) h Princess Lodge Princess BUDGET Sleeping Café Wats Internet NBC Information easily arranged hikingjustoutsidetown. come here, it’sanagreeable place,withsome southeast. Whilethere’s noreal reason to which broodover thelandscapefrom atthefootof setting theUluguruMountains, townwerefairly scruffy itnotforitsverdant Bustling be aMorogoro wouldotherwise % MOROGORO DodomaandSingida;see tween p265 . at about6pm.There’s alsoaspurlinebe- depart atabout8am,andeastwards Mwanza. TrainsfromDodomawestwards connecting DaresSalaamwithKigomaand Linerailway Dodoma liesontheCentral TRAIN from themainroadintowncentre. a restaurant downstairs. It’soneblockin most withdoublebed,fanand net, and option,withclean,smallrooms, shoestring shared bathroom TSh6000/7000, with private bathroomshared bathroomTSh6000/7000,withprivate cheques, andhasanATM. Sofia Hotel Lupanga Peak 8.30am-9pm) Diagonally across from Princess Lodge. 8.30am-9pm) DiagonallyacrossfromPrincess 023 (OldDaresSalaamRd)Changescashandtravellers Tourist Information for theUluguruMoun- , anoldGermanmountainhutto

( ( % % (2147m),thehighest point (Mahenge St;perhrTSh1000; (Mahenge 0744-319159; Mahenge St;dfrom 0744-319159; Mahenge 260 4848; Mahenge St;s/dwith 260 4848;Mahenge Thebest inthe

223 TANZANIA TANZANIA centre onOldDares SalaamRd. and arestaurant. It’sabout300meastof the andlarge doublebed) rooms (allwithTV with expats, ahandfulof spacious This upscaleB&B-style hotel ispopular road, andjustoffMahenge St. expensive restaurant. It’ssouthof themain rooms (askforonewithaview)andanin- is conveniently located andhasreasonable Room pricesincludeabreakfast buffet. andarestaurant. staff grounds, efficient andsmallfridge –plusgrassy con, TV has good-value rooms–allwithfan,air- large portionsof unexcitingfood. isarestaurantand nets.Attached serving aroundatinygarden,all withfan rooms set across fromPrincessLodge. small rooms,andarestaurant. It’sdiagonally Hotel Oasis Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND TSh12,000/15,000) Morogoro 224 Princess Lodge Princess Eating TSh2000; in ‘30 minutes orless’. and meals promised service with efficient friendly, andthebestbet forlocaldishes, .newacropolhotel.biz; s/dTSh45,000/55,000; .com; StationRd;rfromUS$40; TSh15,000) 1 2 MOROGORO Mama Pierina’s Mama New AcropolHotel Mt UluguruHotel THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Morogoro SLEEPING INFORMATION Sofia Hotel...... Princess Lodge...... New AcropolHotel...... Mama Pierina's...... Hotel Oasis...... WCST Office...... Wats InternetCafe...... NBC Bank&ATM...... tUuuuHtl...... B2 Mt UluguruHotel...... h Thisnondescriptmultistorey hotel

A ( breakfast, lunch & dinner) % A long-standing placewith Along-standing ( 261 4178,3535;www.hoteloasistz %

0744-319159; Mahenge St;meals 0744-319159; Mahenge

(Station St;dTSh9000) ( %

( % 261 3403,0744-309410;www

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adaraka Rd 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 260 4153,3489;d as Market B2 B2 D1 C1 C1 C2 B2 C2

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Makongoro St Makongoro EATING Pira's Cash&Carry...... e re etuat..... C2 New GreenRestaurant......

Uhuru St Uhuru ) Rd Lumumba 9 Bright andBright The Oasis TheOasis 2 (3km); Chalinze(85km);Mikumi

(120km); DaresSalaam(195km); To Msamvu&MainBusStation

BC Mahenge St Mahenge 8 ai Tatty

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Buildings (2.5km) Morogoro River meals fromTSh3000; h choices. dishes, grilledchicken and a few vegetarian withIndian establishment A long-standing off theOldDaresSalaamRd. about 2.5kmeastof town,andabout700m and pizzasonweekends. It’ssignposted grounds, agoodmixof localsandexpats, laam Rd. of blocks further easton OldDar esSa- rank. There’s rankacouple anothertaxi of the market, where there’s also a taxi five(TSh4500, hours), departing by8am. 3½ hours). from 5.45amuntil about4pm(TSh2500, there are running alsomanylocal buses, ToDaresSalaam, fice isatthebus station. rogoro it’sbestto bookinadvance;theof- originateSalaam, butasnobuses inMo- doma, Mikumi,Iringa,Mbeyaand Dares dala ina andTSh150 in ataxi, (TSh2000 onthemainDaresSalaamroad Msamvu, is3kmnorth ofThe busstation townin BUS &Away There Getting mumba Rd) 11 10 Dragonaire Bar&Restaurant Dragonaire For self-catering, try For self-catering, New Green Restaurant New Green The main To Tanga, there isadirect busdaily Scandinavian dailytoDo- Express goes B2 lunch &dinner,alsobreakfast Sat&Sun) Monument Kitope Rd Machupa ). 10 Uhuru

Rd Stadium Jamhuri Machupa Rd Machupa B2 Taxi Stand...... Taxi Rank&DaladalaStand... TRANSPORT , justnorthof themainroad. Mosque 0.3miles 500m 0 0 1 daladala

h Station St Rwegasore Rd Rwegasore 3 5 lunch &dinner,closedSundinner)

4 Kitope Rd Kitope stand isoutinfront stand Catholic

Morogoro Church Regional Hospital www.lonelyplanet.com ( Pira’s Cash &Carry Pira’s Cash %

Station

13 12 Train Banda St Banda 261 4021;StationRd; B2

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% Kingalu Rd D & Restaurant(3km); 7 To DragonaireBar 0748-470713; Reserve (155km) Selous Game Green dala-

(Lu-

s s/dall-inclusiveUS$280/470;www.tanzaniasafaris.info; attractions here are the northwest of themainroad.Amongother floodplains,tothe ing isaroundtheMkata and more. Thebestandmostreliable view- elephants, lions,zebras,leopards,crocodiles giraffes, park hostspopulationsof buffaloes, tothesoutheast, Lumango Mountains tothenorthand the UluguruMountains wildlife. between Withinits3230sqkm,set if youdon’thave much timebutwanttosee from DaresSalaamandisagooddestination Mikumi NationalPark iseasilyaccessible % to DaresSalaam,it’sfaster totravel bybus. Line( Morogoro isontheCentral p265 ), but TRAIN www.lonelyplanet.com north. a specialcampsite nearChogaWalein the The parkhasfourordinarycamp sites, and Sleeping ( the site bookings,contact Forcamp- is bestvisited inthedryseason. day. Forcampingfees see p113 . Thepark Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child per Information can bearranged. the main parkgate. Walksandflycamping posted about 25kmnortheast of turn-off Mikumi’s farnorth. Accessisviaasign- outcrop inagood wildlife-viewing area in wellaway from theroadonarocky is set ily thatoperates Ruaha River Lodge ( p229 ), entrance. canbearrangedwalking safaris atthepark park, orarrange anorganised tour. Guided to eitherhave yourownvehicle tovisit the you’ll need hicles foritsguests.Otherwise, runs twolodges ve- inthepark,hassafari .com; s/d fullboard US$130/220; National Park toeasilycombinethetwo. toUdzungwa Mountains enough is close rently noofficial roadlinkingthetwo), and there’s tothesouth(though cur-Reserve range,at close plusdosomefine birding. lumberingbehemothsyou canwatch these % Fox’s Safari Camp Safari Fox’s Kikoboga Mikumi is contiguous with Selous Game Mikumi iscontiguouswithSelous ) 023 Thiscamp,operated fam- bythesame 262 0498)

. Foxes AfricanSafaris,which ( % 022-260 0352/4; obhotel@acexnet

( % 0748-237422, 0744-237422; s Hippo Pools Hippo ) senior parkwarden Kikoboga, about Kikoboga, about , where THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Mikumi NationalPark THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Mikumi

from theparkentrygate. isdiagonallyacross Theturn-off Camp. managementunder thesame asFox’s Safari about 7kmsouthof themainroad,and 26) 2k west. 23km ( p226), s s/dall-inclusiveUS$280/470;www.tanzaniasafaris.info; Mikumi town); see Mikumi town);see p239 . es SalaamandKidatu (about40kmsouthof run byFoxes Dar AfricanSafarisbetween For asplurge, take theprivate luxurytrain TRAIN Motel ( Genesis park through p226 ). Mikumi townandorganise transporttothe touroperators, ortotakebased thebusto Travels ( p118 ) andotherDaresSalaam– the frequent specialdealsoffered byCoastal budget waytovisittheparkisononeof withoneofotherwise thelodges. Thebest yourowncarunlessyou’veneed arranged there isnovehicle hire atthepark,soyou’ll andaskthedriverhighway todropyouoff), runningalongtheMorogoro–Iringa buses easy viapublictransport(take anyof the gettingAlthough tothegate of Mikumiis ROAD &Away There Getting plenty fromyourfrontporch. tomind,andyou’lllikely see don’t seem a wildernessexperience,buttheanimals Given itsproximity it’snot tothehighway, frequented bygrazingzebrasandgazelles. stone cottages spread outonagrassy field 500m northeastof theparkgate, hasnice season, butingeneral 4WD isbest. season, are accessiblewitha2WDduringthe dry Some roadsinMikumi’snorthern section (70km/h daytimeand50km/hat night). insidetheparkarehighway controlled limits onthe from DaresSalaam;speed National Parks. visits toMikumi orUdzungwa Mountains is of interest pointfor primarily asastarting of and mountains the Southern Highlands, before itsclimbup intothehillsand itstarts along theDares Salaam–Mbeyahighway Mikumi isthe lastof thelowland towns % MIKUMI Also see sleeping optionsinMikumitown sleeping Also see The parkgate isaboutafour-hour drive TentedVuma Camp ) 023 An easily accessed camp set on a rise onarise campset Aneasilyaccessed

( % 0748-237422, 0744-237422;

225 TANZANIA TANZANIA TSh3000, rperpersonTSh15,000) in hikingwellaway fromthecrowds. inclinedorinterestedfor anyonebotanically destination and makes anintriguingoff-beat more thaninanyof Tanzania’s otherparks) healthy populationof primates (10species– dance of uniqueplants,theparkishometoa NationalPark.tains Inaddition toanabun- are protected as partof UdzungwaMoun- portionsofUdzungwa Mountains, which are thewild,lushlyforested slopesof the about 350kmsouthwestof DaresSalaam Towering steeplyover theKilomberoPlains % PARK UDZUNGWA MOUNTAINS NATIONAL from 8.30am. topass Mikumi toDaresSalaamstart buses passing Mikumiabout5.30am.Goingeast, is alsoadirect busfromKilomberotoIringa, and Songea, beginningabout9.30am.There Mikumi dailyonitsroutes toIringa,Mbeya Express fromDaresSalaam,which passes comes bywithspace. ontheroadsideandwaituntilone to stand originate inMikumi,soyou’llneed buses stop justeastof theIfakarajunction.Few ontheDaresSalaam–Mbeya route buses twohours). way (aboutTSh2000, Through the Ifakarajunctionjustsouthof thehigh- National Park leave thedayfrom throughout towardsUdzungwaMountains Minibuses &Away There Getting Motel Genesis Sleeping &Eating 226 guide necessary for longerguide necessary hikes). For over- per day, or US$25 for thearmed ranger tobeaccompanied byaguide(US$15 need depending onthetrail.For allhikes, you’ll range per day, to TSh6000 from TSh3000 day. Forcamping fees, see p113 . Porter fees Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child per Information per veh toMikumiNational Parksafaris (US$100 mi’s best).It’sagoodplacetoorganise budget helpful andthere’s adecentrestaurant (Miku- are the truckstopstobeenjoyable,butstaff to isnoisyandabittooclose The setting and about2.5kmeastof theIfakarajunction. kumi town,directly onthemainhighway Going west,thebestbetisScandinavian 023 THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••UdzungwaMountainsNationalPark icle per day, transportonly). icle perday,

( % 262 0461;campingwithshower Ontheedge of Mi- TSh4000, with private bathroom TSh5000) TSh4000, with private road. 500m southof theparkentrance, alongthe It’sabout (meals aboutTSh4500). taurant kumi, withbasic but cleanroomsandares- Motel management inMi- same asGenesis rogoro. up onmajor items inDaresSalaamorMo- coming fromIringa. ifyouareopen soon,which willbeuseful the western sideof thepark,isscheduled to road. AnentrypostatUdekwavillage, on south of MikumitownalongtheIfakara den’s office are located inMang’ula, 60km Udzungwa Mountain View, though they are View, though Udzungwa Mountain that are at notches down fromthose several the same rate.the same sites alongthetrailsareCamp charged at person US$20)thanthelocalguesthouses. ters are rarely asthey’re used, pricier(per The three campsites nearparkheadquar- Sleeping six-day rently beingcleared, aswellaboutthe point), which iscur-and thepark’shighest from Mang’ula to about thechallenging four- tofive-day trail by aguide. Checkwithparkheadquarters own tent anddoyourhikingaccompanied tohave andyou’llneed rudimentary; your overgrown;and densely infrastructure is parts: trailsare often humid muddy,steep, Sanje Falls route, in thegoingcanbetough point.Forallexcepttheeasy second-highest up to to theforest circuitthrough but steephalf-day hiking trails . Popularroutes includeashort there are aboutfive major lesser andseveral There are noroadsin Udzungwa; instead, Hiking afilterbut you’llneed orpurifyingtablets. plenty of streams tofillupyourwater bottle, on theeastern sideof thepark,there are headquarters tothetrailheads.Forall hikes to organise things,andtimetoget frompark hikes,night allowanextradayatMang’ula 0224; www.udzungwa.org) camping TSh2000,rper personTSh15,000) Twiga Hotel There’s atinymarket intown,butstock Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel Udzungwa Mountain View The entrancegate, Sanje Falls Mwanihana Peak Lumemo Trail , and a two-night, three-day, andatwo-night, hike

( % 262 0239;r withshared bathroom Luhombero Peak and the senior parkwar- andthesenior . park headquarters , at2080m,thepark’s Basic rooms Basic

Underthe ( % (2579m, 262 0260;

( % 262 Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) Next to theLutheran cathedral. to2pmSat &Sun)Next Mon-Fri, vehicles oneway). (TSh10,000 can tryyourluckarrangingaliftwithpark and theoccasionallorry.Alternatively, you 30minutes) (TSh500, sporadic minibuses (the maintrailhead,10kmnorth),there are ombero, departingaroundnoon. hours fromDartoMang’ula). toeight seven ing from6.30am(TSh6000, to IfakaraandMahenge viaMang’ula depart- Mang’ula between (TSh3000 and Mikumi). about8.30amand2pmMikumi between Salaam orMorogorotoIfakara,which pass comingfromeitherDares buses through usually faster towaitforoneof thelarger for onwardtransporttowardsMang’ula. It’s and Kilombero,where towait you’llneed Mikumitown rundailybetween Minibuses BUS &Away There Getting about 200mofftheroadandsignposted. be arranged. It’sjustoutsidetheparkgate, arguably value. better Meals shoestring can www.lonelyplanet.com Aga Khan Health Centre Khan Aga Information bastion against thelocalHehe people. atthe turnofthe Germans the century asa Little RuahaRiver, wasinitiallybuiltupby overlookingon acliffside the valleyof the The town,which isperched at acool1600m along theDares Salaam–Mbeyahighway. place, andoneof themostagreeable stops streets feel, andhighland Iringa isalikeable jacaranda-lined setting, With itsbluff-top % IRINGA north of thepark gate; see p239 . hours), about25km Salaam–Kidatu, seven datu (US$120/150oneway/return Dares toKi- the northernborderof theSelous Safaris, which followstheTazara linealong vate luxurytrainoperated byFoxes African to Mang’ula. Theotheroption isthepri- 50km furthersouth,andtwohours bybus Express trainsstoponlyatIfakara,about about3kmfrompark headquarters.station, Tazara lineordinarytrainsstopatMang’ula TRAIN Between theMang’ula parkgate andSanje Between From Iringa,there’s adailybustoKil- From DarandMorogorothere are buses 026 (Jamat St; (Jamat h 8am-6pm 9.30pm) Internetaccess. 270 0182;campingwithshower TSh2500,s/dTSh10,000/20,000) bathroom TSh5000) s/d withshared bathroomTSh2500/3500,dwithprivate from themainroad. northeastern edge of town,about700m request. Breakfast It’sonthe costsTSh500. with relatively cleanrooms,andmealson online.co.tz; campingTSh2500,tentrental TSh2000) Mkwawa Rd;s/d/steUS$25/32/37; food. Take a showers andcolddrinks;bringyourown on thebanksof theLittleRuahaRiver, hot along themainroad,withalovely setting camping ground,13kmnortheastof Iringa about 1.5kmoffthemainroad. the driver it’s todropyouoff (TSh500); h access &internationalcalls. MR Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND TSh7500-15,000) Campsite Riverside BUDGET Sleeping over town. a few minutes’ walktothetopforviews werethat theGermans after him.It’sjust andwhereto gomeditate, helearned where thefamousHehe chief Mkwawaused Just northeastof townis Sights h Café Top Internet NBC MR Hotel JM BusinessConsulting rooms andmeals. withno-frillsmain roadnearthebusstand cash andtravellerscheques,hasanATM. safaris and otherexcursions.safaris They alsoorganise carhire,taurant. Ruaha modernroomsandares- staff, with efficient multistorey hotel nexttothe busstation, from thetown centre; pensive meals. It’s about a25-minute walk Danish School, withsimplerooms andinex- the town centre downMkwawa Rd,nearthe onlargeThis place isset grounds3km from Annex ofStaffInn Iringa LutheranCentre Iringa Huruma Baptist Conference Centre Huruma BaptistConference THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Iringa THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Iringa 8.30am-9pm) 8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-9.30pmSun)Internet (UhuruAve) OppositetheCatholiccathedral;changes

(Mkwawa Rd;perhrTSh1000; ( % daladala 270 2006, 270 2779; www.mrhotel.co.tz; 270 2006,2779;www.mrhotel.co.tz; A localfavourite alongthe A good shoestring option, Agoodshoestring (UhuruAve; per70minTSh1000;

( % (UhuruAve; perhrTSh500; ( towardsIlulaandask % daladalas

272 5280/2;phillips@africa ( % 270 0165;UhuruAve; r 270 2489; Kawawa Rd; 270 2489;Kawawa ai Gangilonga Rock Gangilonga h run nearby.

( % ) 7.30am- Agood 270 1532, 227 A

,

TANZANIA TANZANIA TSh9000/11,500/18,000) from TSh500; if you’re planningtocampinthepark. toRuaha,andcanalsoorganise food safaris The ownerishelpfulwitharranging budget shakes andreasonably pricedmaindishes. withgood breakfasts,highlights, yogurt, town. and arestaurant, atthenorthernendof Hasty Tasty Too Eating Iringa 228 ( h meals fromTSh500; Kawawa Rd. block southeast of the mainroad,just off cream area. and an outdoorseating It’s one ice meals,soft-serve friendly, withlight lane runningparallel tothemainroad. It’s atthenorthern endof town, onasmall eatery makes agoodstopforcheap localfood. Mosque % Antipoaching Park (115km) Ruaha National Museum (15km); To KalengaHistorical 1 3 2 IRINGA Isimila Hotel Saju’s HomeCooking For self-catering, try For self-catering, Lulu’s Office 8.30am-3pm &6.30-9pm Mon-Sat) THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Iringa 270 2296; JamatSt). Aga KhanHealthCentre...... Iringa LutheranCentre...... Annex ofStaffInn...... TTCL...... Top InternetCafé...... Post Office...... (see5) NBC &ATM...... JM BusinessConsulting...... SLEEPING INFORMATION Tosamaganga (15km);Kisolanza–

To MainHighwaytoMbeya& Morogoro (2km);IpogoroBus The OldFarmHouse(50km) Campsite (13km);Isimila& ( Station (2.5km);Riverside % h AC 270 2122;snacks&meals fromTSh500; 7am-11pm)

3 h ( Cathedral ( % Catholic % 7.30am-8pm) Reasonable-value rooms 270 2061;UhuruAve; snacks & 270 1194;UhuruAve; s/d/ste

(Haile Selassie St;snacks&meals (Haile Selassie Thishomyfamily-run Premji’s Cash &Carry Cash Premji’s 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Oneof Iringa’s D2 B3 C3 C2 A3 C3 C3 Quietand EATING Saju's HomeCooking...... Premji's Cash&Carry...... Lulu's...... Hasty TastyToo...... MR Hotel...... Isimila Hotel...... B

Uhuru Ave

12 Jamat St Jamat 16 ὈὈ ὈὈ 6 To DanishSchool&HurumaBaptist

Miskitini St

Miomboni St Mkwawa Rd Mkwawa Cathedral 15 Mosque Lutheran Ismaili Conference Centre(2km) 9 tion. ForSongea, change inNjombe, though ing in themorning from the town bus sta- (Ipogoro) about1pm. vian bus from DaresSalaam, passingIringa Alternatively, ontheScandina- book aseat fourtofiveabout 6am(TSh6500, hours). its office,opposite the townbusstation. 7½hours);semiluxury, bookinadvanceat ordinary/ 10.30am daily(TSh9000/10,000, Dar esSalaam,leaving at6.30am,9amand stopping alsoatIpogoro. intown, atthebusstation in Iringastart Uhuru Park originating intown.Allbuses Daladalas continuing towardsMorogoroor Mbeya. get droppedoffifyou’re arrivingonabus Iringa. Thisisalsowhereway bypasses you’ll town), where theMorogorotoMbeyahigh- to inataxi below theescarpment(TSh1000 at Ipogoro,about3kmsoutheast of town togothemainbusstation you’ll need To catch anybusnotoriginatinginIringa, &Away There Getting 1 To Njombe, there’s onebusdaily depart- To Mbeya,there’s a bus departingdaily Scandinavian Express to hasthree buses

13 12 11 10 M 2 arket (Sokoni) St (Sokoni) arket 9 8 14 D2 B3 D2 C2 C3 D1 Market 5 Roundabout Monument toIpogoroleave fromtheedge of Uhuru TRANSPORT Town BusStation...... Office...... Scandinavian BusBooking Daladalas toIpogoro...... Uhuru Monument Maji Park Uprising 0.4miles 600m 0 0 10 4 Hospital District Iringa www.lonelyplanet.com

Hospital Bendera St Bendera Some MinorRoads 11 13 not Depicted Haile Selassie St 16 15 14

D Kawawa Rd Kawawa 8 B3 C3 C3

Titi St Gangilonga Rock (1km) To Dodoma (275km) 7 To park roadandissignposted. few otherrelics fromtheera. It’sjust off the road, is About 15kmoutsideIringa,offtheMbeya Site Isimila Stone-Age AROUND IRINGA Makatapora, allowfive tosixhours. Morogoro. Ifyou’re drivingtoDodomavia Makatapora. alltransportisvia Otherwise, 10 to12hours), goingviaNyangoloand ing about8amineach direction (TSh7000, Salaam. wait fortheScandinavian busfromDares for bothNjombeandSongea, it’sfaster to www.lonelyplanet.com diles andmany water birds. of thepark, andis home to hippos, croco- Ruaha River the eastern winds through side than 400 different typesof birds.TheGreat antelopes, roan andsable tahs, and more Grant’s gazelles, wild dogs,ostriches, chee- aswellgreaterfaloes, kudus, andlesser Other residents includelarge herdsof buf- of Tanzania’s largest elephantpopulations. 40,000 sqkm,and providing hometoone wild andextended ecosystem covering about Ruaha NationalPark forms thecore of a forces. than succumbtotheGerman it washere thathecommitted suiciderather lenga fell inthe 1890s,and totheGermans resistors –hadhisadministrationuntilKa- of colonialism’s mostvociferous German Park. Itwashere thatChiefMkwawa –one from IringaontheroadtoRuaha National The formerHehe of capital Kalenga is15km Kalenga sion TSh1500) return.TSh5000 20-minute walk.Taxis fromtown costabout fromwhere attheturn-off, off it’sabouta andasktobedropped maganga (TSh500) take a Otherwise, with bizarrely pillars. erodedsandstone the surroundingarea isworththejourney, years isn’texciting,but old.Thedisplayitself estimated 60,000and100,000 tobebetween identified. Thetoolsfoundatthesite are the mostsignificantStone-Age findsever late 1950sarchaeologists unearthedoneof To Dodoma,there’s adailybusdepart- The small Isimila isaneasybicycleridefromIringa. Isimila contains Mkwawa’sskullanda contains Kalenga Historical Museum Historical Kalenga

(admission TSh500) daladala towardsTosa- , where inthe

(admis- THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Around Iringa THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••AroundIringa www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/dall-inclusiveUS$280/470) www.tanzaniasafaris.info; to reach areas where water remains. when theyare bywildlife used ascorridors dry upcompletely duringthedryseason, rivers,park are ‘sand’ several mostof which the in thesouthandwest.Runningthrough sional rockyoutcrops,andlowmountains topography: undulatingplateau withocca- Easter) Rustic and comfortable, thiscamp isinthe western Easter) Rusticand comfortable, s/dall-inclusive US$290/480; [email protected]; beds, and guidingisexcellent. The atmosphere isintimate, withjust16 Sand River about 20kminsidetheparkgate. wildlife-viewing location ontheMwagusi garded luxurytented camp inatop-notch Mdonya Old River Camp Mdonya Old River those staying inthecampsites staying or those theparkfor lodges organise walks,asdoes Mar) five specialcampsites; nonehave water. northwest of parkheadquarters, andabout There are two ordinarycampsites about 9km Sleeping day. Foraccommodationfees, see p113 . Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child per Information ern parkboundary. bushlink.co.tz) there are reasonable drive-in rates available. water. Flycampingcanbearranged, and with cosystone the river about15kminsidetheparkgate, classy butunpretentious lodge isdirectly on www.ruaha.org; s/dall-inclusiveUS$450/780; www.ruaha.org; down ontheleftopposite themosque. first left.Theantipoaching unitisabout200m roundabout attheedge of town,andthenthe the Ruaharoad.Take thefirst after right the make bookings.Head west outof townon edge of towncanhelpyouradiotheparkto son. InIringa,theantipoaching office onthe sea- tion, bookinadvanceduringthe high your ownsupplies.Forallparkaccommoda- afew you’llneed sells basics,butotherwise Water isavailable forshowers andthe park 2km fromheadquarters, andaresthouse. Ruaha is notable foritswildandstriking Ruaha isnotable Other recommendations: Except fortheFebruaryExcept toMay wetseason, The park maintains several several The parkmaintains The maingate isabout8kminsidetheeast- Mwagusi Safari Camp Mwagusi Safari Ruaha River Lodge River Ruaha Mwagusiisanexclusive re- andhighly isnearbyatMsembe. bandas

( % Park headquarters ( %

(in UK 0748-237422, 0744-237422; andviewsover the 022-211 7959/60; % bandas 020-8846 9363; bandas h

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229 Jun- . TANZANIA TANZANIA per daytothemaingate area). camp hasavehicle thatyoucanhire (US$100 you canpitch atent) andarestaurant. The en suite about 35kmfromtheparkgate, withsimple perpersonfull-boardUS$110) 1569; [email protected]; are interested in visitingthe park. put you in touch withother travellers who alone or inasmallgroup, cansometimes and, ifyou’reand one night, travelling day, five persons maximum,fortwodays transportfrom US$130pervehicleises per hire avehicle fromTungamalenga Camp. the occasionalpark vehicle, youcan though hours). FromTungamalenga, there isonly 3½tofiveTungamalenga at 3am(TSh2500, gamalenga, departingIringaat 1pm and and otherdestinationsonrequest. (US$270),Mikumi Arusha (US$300),Selous to Katavi (US$400),DaresSalaam(US$300), ( p92 inRuahaforflights ) hasaplane based Ruaha andArusha. Foxes AfricanSafaris andsometimesbetween Game Reserve), US$270 fromSelous es SalaamorZanzibar, (US$300oneway fromDar Game Reserve toRuahaviaSelous Salaam andZanzibar AviationCoastal fliesfrombothDares &Away There Getting andtransportfromIringa.a full-daysafari) vehicle hire toRuaha(US$50perperson for tents, andthecampcanhelpyouarrange the parkgate. Accommodationisinraised Tungamalenga road,andabout12kmfrom Just outsidetheparkboundaryalong outsidetheparkboundaries. to stay With yourowntransport,it’salsopossible Jongomero Camp ‘last minute’deals,Mdonyaoffers verygoodvalue. advantageofCoastalAviation’sother camps,ifyoutake oraswell-locatedsomeofthe While notasluxurious fromMsembe. ofthepark,about1½hours’drive part 230 US$495/660; fast/ campingUS$5,rperpersonwithbreak- [email protected]; you’re unlikely toseeanyothervisitors. you’re unlikely andsuperblyfurnished– tents –allveryluxurious of thepark,about60kmfromMsembe.Ithasjusteight camp issetoffonitsownintheremote southwesternpart The closest petrol isin Iringa.The closest Hasty Tasty Too( p228 ) inIringaorgan- IringaandTun- daily between A busgoes Tungamalenga Camp Tandala Tented Camp full boardUS$20/40) THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Iringa toMakambako THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Iringa bandas h Jun-Mar; Jun-Mar; aroundatinygarden(where (www.selous.com; s/dall-inclusive InTungamalengavillage, s ( ( % % ) This wonderfully exclusive ) Thiswonderfully 026-270 3425,023-260 026-278 2198/6;tung from Makambako toMbeyacostTSh3000. road, about500mwestof thejunction.Buses room TSh2000/3000) cheques with purchasereceipts, andhasan ATM. square. 10pm) Internetaccess; on thewesternsideofmarket ofthemarket. 8pm Mon-Sat,to1pmSun) Justnorth 273 0201;raboutTSh10,000) larly inthe area around thebus station. Mbeya attracts many transients, particu- Dangers &Annoyances NBC Nane InformationCentre Centre Medical Khan Aga Information ing possibilities. surrounding area isscenic,withsomehik- it’s agoodplaceforstockingup, andthe climate coolyear-round. ispleasantly Thanks toitsaltitudeatabout1800m, the andMalawi.point enroute to/fromZambia western Tanzania transit andanimportant regional themajor capital, towninsouth- Lupa, tothenorth.TodayMbeyais a bustling in 1927asasupplycentre forthegoldrush at tothesoutheast.Itwasfounded Mountains tothe northandthePoroto Mbeya Range theverdantMbeya liesinagapbetween % MBEYA House off themainroad,is 40km southwestof Iringa,andabout1km the junctiontownof Makambako. About of stands pine,beforepast dense reaching ues southwest,windingitswaygraduallyup, From Iringa,theTanzam contin- highway IRINGA TOMAKAMBAKO or themore expensive Guest House choices are thebasic If youget stuckhere overnight, youronly theDaresSalaam–Mbeyahighway. meets tion townwhere fromSongea theroad will dropyouattheturn-off. items. Scandinavian Express andotherbuses freshplus ashopselling produceandother stead withcamping,chalets andcottages, per adult/childhalfboardUS$50/12) chaletsperchaletUS$15-25,cottages US$3, self-catering There’s but notmuch tothetownitself, Makambako isawindy,dustyjunc- itself 025 (cnr Karume & Kaunda Aves) &Kaunda Changes travellers (cnrKarume

(www.kisolanza.com; campingwithhotshowers (www.kisolanza.com;

( % , 026-273 0047;s/dwithshared bath-

opposite the train station, opposite thetrainstation, Kisolanza – The OldFarm –The Kisolanza (perhrTSh500; Lutheran Centre Hotel & Hotel Lutheran Centre ( , alsoonthemain % Uplands Hotel www.lonelyplanet.com 250 2043; , afarmhome- h h

( % 8am- 8am- 026- Mbeya www.lonelyplanet.com Karibuni Centre Karibuni BUDGET Sleeping or trainstations. ments withanyoneloitering aroundthebus faux Alsowatch outfor ley behindthestation. avoid thesmallval- walkingalonethrough Watch yourluggage and yourpockets, and dala and about10minutes on footfromthe day). It’s3kmsouthwest of the towncentre, 7am-9pm Monday toFriday,lunch Satur- a restaurant open (mealsfromTSh3000; where youcanalsopitch atent. There’s also compound mission-run placeinanenclosed TSh1000, d/tr/qTSh10,000/12,000/14,000) ing per empty lot forabout300m tothegate. whatlooks likethe turn-off, headthrough an junction coming fromDar esSalaam.From and about 500mwestofhighway, thefirst the signpostalong thenorthsideof themain TSh6000/7500) 1 3 2 MBEYA Holiday Lodge stopfortransport intotown.Watch for guides,anddon’tmake anyarrange- Hospital double tent TSh2000plusperpersonadditional

Independence Ave 12 Tunduma &Zambia(95km) To KaribuniCentre(2km);

AC Mbalizi (12km);Utengule Mbalizi Rd St West A whitewashed local guesthouse Awhitewashed local guesthouse

Country Hotel(20km);

Train Station(4km); Hospital Hill Hospital

( % ( 7 % Catholic Church 8 250 3035;[email protected]; camp- Statue

Rhino Sisimba St Sisimba

250 2821; Jamatikhana Rd;s/d 250 2821; Jamatikhana

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11 School St School

Market

10 2 South St South

13 North St 14 6 1

Anglican Aclean,quiet

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Jacaranda Rd Jacaranda Market Sq

Acacia St Acacia East St East B 5

Karume Lupa Way

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Ave Jamatikhana Rd Jamatikhana

Mwambenja Rd central location just northwest ofthemarket. central locationjustnorthwest bathroom TSh2500/3500)Grubbyshared facilitiesand a Ave Kaunda if youhaveanearlybus. oppositethebusstation andnoisy,butconvenient Directly bathroomTSh6500) shared bathroomTSh5000,with private inataxifromtown). walk to,especiallyatnight(TSh1000 order. andnotsafe to It’sabout800msouth ofthemarket, are sometimesavailableon Meals (breakfast costsextra). rooms s TSh6500,dwithshared bathroomTSh4200)No-frills of the market. There’s also arestaurant. the hills. It’s on asmall sidestreet just east and decent rooms,some withviewsover New Millennium Inn New Millennium Warsame GuestHouse Moravian Hostel stand. and about15minutes onfootfromthebus a 10-minute walkfromthemarket area, behind thelarge RiftValley Hotel, about and arestaurant. It’sjustoff themainroad with cleanrooms–somebathroom – TSh12,000/15,000/30,000) Mbeya Peak Hotel MIDRANGE &TOP END Other recommendations: THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Mbeya

Saba Saba Rd 3

Stadium Sokoine Lumumba Rd Lumumba ( 0.3miles 500m 0 0 4 %

Taxi Stand...... (see12) Bus Station&ScandinavianBooking Tazara TownBookingOffice...... Taxi Stand...... Office...... Sombrero Restaurant...... PM's CornerRestaurant...... Mambeu's...... Warsame GuestHouse...... New MillenniumInn...... Moravian Hostel...... Mbeya PeakHotel...... Holiday Lodge...... NBC Bank&ATM...... Nane InformationCentre...... Aga KhanMedicalCentre...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION ( ( 250 2643,3626;JacarandaRd; % % (SisimbaSt;s/dwithshared A central, sunny setting Acentral, sunnysetting

250 3473;Acacia St;s/d/ste 250 0599;MbaliziRd;s with

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R d Songwe RiverBridge D & Malawi(125km); To Tukuyu(75km); Songea (495km) Iringa (365km); Kyela (130km); 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

231 B1 B2 A3 B2 B2 A2 A2 A3 B3 B2 C2 C2 B2 B2 TANZANIA TANZANIA cheese andthelike.cheese reasonable of selections boxed juices, tinned around themarket area, mostof which have meals TSh1000) s/tw/steUS$45/80/120; iwayafrica.com; gea (TSh11,000, eight hours). eight gea (TSh11,000, fourhours)to Njombe(TSh6000, andSon- the busstation. 12 hours); bookinadvanceattheiroffice toTSh17,000, to DaresSalaam(TSh15,000 Scandinavian daily Express hastwobuses BUS &Away There Getting ner) mealsaboutTSh10,000; iwayafrica.com; Restaurant Sombrero Eating 232 ugali, Mambeu’s, are withinexpensive localstaples, for reasonable prices. andotherdishes bolognaise curry, spaghetti uplarge portionsof vegetarian place serving port, take anyTunduma-bound is signpostedViapublictrans- totheright. 8.5km, keeping leftatthefirst fork.Thelodge signposted Continuefor turn-offtotheright. for about12kmtoMbalizi,where there’s a Take theTundumaroadwestfromMbeya forexploringthesurroundingregion.base have yourowntransport,itmakes acosy hills about20kmwestof Mbeya,andifyou tive inthe lodgeonacoffee plantation isset take youtowithinabout2kmof thelodge. Mbalizi, fromwhere sporadicpick-upswill noon barbecueandaconvivialbar. àlacarte, aSundayafter- menuor daily set TSh2500-3500; lo p258. also 4pm, andthen continuing to Lilongwe. See at 5am,reaching 3pm and Mbeya between departingDar times weekly, a busseveral Karonga andbeyond. ToLilongwe, there’s can pickupMalawian transportheading to Mbeya andtheMalawi border,where you Kyela. There isalsodailytransport between and Malawi. ForItungi,change vehicles in Kyela (TSh1500) Mbeya toTukuyu (TSh700), For self-catering, trythesmallshops For self-catering, Utengule CountryHotel Utengule Daladalas Super Feo hasdailymorningdepartures Utengule CountryHotel Utengule PM’s CornerRestaurant PM’s Theplacetogoforfinedining,witha THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••AroundMbeya chips, chicken andthelike. and,diagonallyacrossfromit, h go several timesdaily from goseveral breakfast, lunch&dinner)

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( 250 3636;PostSt,mains ( % % 256 0100;utengule@ 256 0100;utengule@ s h ) Thisattrac- daladala lunch anddin- Alively to formation aboutconnectionswith Zambia. Mbeya andDaresSalaam, p259 forin- on themainhighway. and Rungwa. viaChunya duringthedryseason weekly bawanga inthemorning. most vehicles toMpandadepartSum- there,and planonspendingthenight since Mpanda, change vehicles inSumbawanga, sixhours).5.30am and7am(TSh8000, For see Mbeya andLusaka); p259 . between viaMbeya(TSh36,000 and Lusaka late afternoon. Mbeyainthe Salaam andTundumapasses port; theScandinavian Dares busbetween where trans- youcanchange toZambian twohours), border(TSh2500, Zambian 10.40am-12.40pm &2-4pmSat) ble for itsmany water birds andits crocodile Remote Rukwa isalargeLake lake salt nota- Rukwa Lake hours return). and thenontothe peak(aboutfourtofive toLunjiFarm,road uppastthe seminary andfollowthe Mary’s Turnright Seminary. follow thedirtroad for900mtoasignSt Utengule CountryHotel, and headright, daladala west of townontheTunduma road.Take a fromMbalizijunction,12kmroute goes day hike fromMbeya. The mostcommon in theMbeyarange, canbeclimbedasa Mbeya Peak peak (2818m),thehighest Mbeya Peak AROUND MBEYA Millennium hotel. Mbalizi departfromtheroadinfront of New near themarket. There and are atthebusstation, stands taxi Around Getting at the book to 3pmMondayFriday.Otherwise, fice, which isopen(intheory)from7.30am Tazara townbookingoffice nearthepostof- Tickets canbebooked forallclasses atthe TRAIN See See p265 forschedules andfares between To Tabora, there are three tofourbuses dailyat To Sumbawanga,Sumrygoes Scandinavian Dar runsdailybetween godailytoTunduma, on the Minibuses station toMbalizi,get out atthesignfor

( h 7.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm &2-5pmMon-Fri, Daladalas www.lonelyplanet.com , 4kmwestof town toTazara and then right. about atthe top of and town, head straight of the town centre; fromthe smallround- rooms and coldwater. It’s about1kmeast option, withbasicThe main shoestring junction. two-storeyunmissable building atthemain and hotwater, and a restaurant. It’sthe get onlineat ellers cheques andhasanATM, andyoucan in thecentre of town,changes cashandtrav- you undertake you’llbeonyourown.NBC, there’s noinfrastructure, soforanything hiking, buttouristfacilitiesare minimaland The area holdsthepotential forsomegood rolling hillsandorchards Nyasa. nearLake amongTukuyu isan agreeable townset % TUKUYU the lakeshore. There are nofacilities. Mbeya viaChunyaandSazatoNgomba,on proaches are fromSumbawanga,or only practicalwitha4WD.Themainap- Visitsare thewetanddryseasons. between no outlet,itswater variessignificantly level with Katavi NationalPark. As thelake has which iscontiguous Rukwa GameReserve, ispartofpopulation. Thenorthernsection www.lonelyplanet.com Landmark Hotel Landmark Hotel Sleeping &Eating going rate isTSh1000. if youhaven’t already comewith one;the off, you’llbeapproached bylocalguides Onceatthe turn- and asktobedroppedoff. dala the subjectof locallegends. Take any which hasanimpressive crater lake thatis main roadisthevolcanic about 15kmnorthof Tukuyu. a guide;it’ssignposted off theMbeya road School, whereSecondary youcanarrange 10 hours. from Rungwe Theclimbstarts between Tukuyu andMbeya;allowabout Mt Rungwe One possibilityisthesummitof the2960m HIKING Activities diagonally acrossfromthebank. 30,000/50,000) bathroom TSh2000/3000, d with private bathroomTSh4000) bathroom TSh2000/3000, dwithprivate Langboss Lodge Further northandabout7kmwest of the 025 travelling Mbeya andTukuyu between , totheeastof themainroad Modern rooms, all with TV Modernrooms, allwithTV Siaki Internet Café Café Internet Siaki ( %

( % 255 2400;s/d/steTSh25,000/ 255 2080;s/dwithshared Ngozi Peak Ngozi (per hrTSh1000) (2629m), dala- ,

to/from town. down adirtroad.Occasionalpick-upsrun of theroad,fromwhere it’s7kmfurther the signposted onthewestern turn-off side Head northfromTukuyuforabout3kmto byoverlandand issometimesused trucks. large groundswhere youcanpitch a tent, handful of simpleroomswithnets,plus off themainroadnorthof Tukuyuhasa fers excellentbirding. hiking isatitsmuddiest.Thepark alsoof- March,cember through which isalsowhen plateau’s mostrenowned resident –are De- the orchidsbest months –the forseeing The flowers carpetingitsgrassyexpanses. geraniums andmanymore aloes, far), irises, (over 50specieshave identifiedthus been profusion of colour,withterrestrial orchids about November untilApril, itexplodesina National Park plateau, partof which isprotected as northeast of Tukuyuisthisflower-clad Nestled atabout2600minthehighlands KITULO PLATEAU onehour). Kyela (TSh1000, 1½ hours alongascenic,Tarmac road)and oneto Tukuyu andbothMbeya(TSh1000, timesdailybetween runseveral Minibuses &Away There Getting and KituloFarm. hours Matamba onfoot between to seven have yourowntransport; allowaboutsix Fromhere, towalkor houses. you’ll need where there are acoupleof basicguest- go atleasttwice daily asfarMatamba, (site of future parkheadquarters). Pick-ups park’s MwakipemboGate andKituloFarm Matamba (current parkheadquarters), the of of hairpinturns tothesizeablesettlement that climbsover endlessseries aseemingly road continue another42kmonarough signpost onthewestern edge of townand way. Fromhere, turnsouthatthepark 80km eastof Mbeyaalongthemainhigh- need to be self-sufficient with food and to beself-sufficient need infrastructure.tary For any hiking, you’ll There’s currently only themostrudimen- collected in Matamba. atthe parkoffices s withshared bathroomTSh2500) plus persmall/largecarnightTSh1000/2500,trTSh3500, THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Tukuyu Lutengano MoravianCentre Lutengano The bestaccessisviaChimala, about Park fees (US$20 perday) are now being . During the rainy season from . Duringtherainyseason Thisno-frills place

(camping TSh2000

Kitulo Kitulo

233 TANZANIA TANZANIA atma.co.tz; camping with shower TSh3000, 3-/4-/5-bed arrivals anddepartures. coordinationwithboat and Itungi,inrough Hotel. Kyela Pick-upsrundailybetween abouttwoblocksnorthofthe stand Pattaya the Scandinavian bus,oraminibusfrom youcantakeTukuyu andMbeya(TSh1500), 15hours).at 6amdaily(TSh17,000, To roadasMakete,on thesame andissimilar. vian Express busoffice. in thetowncentre, opposite theScandina- Matema Matema bidden. Forferry information,see p261 . no accommodation,andphotography isfor- ferry. Nyasa There’szanian portfortheLake Itungi, 11kmsouthof Kyela,isthemainTan- Itungi is prohibited inmostareas of town. somewhere overnight. tostay Photography boat arrives late atItungiand you need There’s noreason tocomehere unlessyour % Kyela (listed bylocationfromnorthtosouth). zanian sideof thelake includethefollowing backdrop. Placesof interest aroundtheTan- totheeastformastunning stone Mountains cichlid (freshwater fish) species.TheLiving- toone-thirdofhosts close theearth’sknown Tanganyika,after VictoriaandLake Lake and Malawi)as Lake isAfrica’sthird-largest lake (knowntomany non-Tanzanians Nyasa Lake LAKE NYASA at KituloFarm. ispossible water, andcarryaGPS.Camping 234 Matema Lake Shore Resort Shore Lake Matema SLEEPING &EATING coast. There’s nowhere tochange money. market atLyulilovillage, 1.5kmdown the and onSaturdays there’s alively pottery Nearby are somesmall waterfalls andcaves, ortake excursionscanoes downthecoast. spot torelax. Youcan arrange ridesinlocal tourist infrastructure, and itmakes anideal withanysort of Nyasa on northernLake Quiet andpretty Matema istheonlyspot TSh4500) Scandinavian departsforDaresSalaam Pattaya Hotel Makete HalfLondonGuestHouse Makete 025 THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Lake Nyasa THESOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Lake hasclean,basicroomswithnet.It’s

( % 254 0015;s/dTSh5000/6000)

( % 025-250 4178;mec@

( % 254 0459;s is Centre inMbeya.Centre can alsomake Karibuni bookings through You or youcanarrange mealswithstaff. There’s norestaurant, butthere’s agrill, withensuite cottages and chalets.House, beach about300mpasttheLutheranGuest with private bathroomTSh8400) with private 2597/8; tr/quadwithshared bathroomTSh6200/13,200,d There’s nowhere to stay. reached fromMatema. viadugout canoe Mbeya and elsewhere inthe region. It’s its claypots, which are soldatmarkets in The tiny village of for Ikombe isnotable Ikombe way. Matema for about US$65pervehicle one arrange Tukuyuand transport between easy tohire avehicle todrop youoff. continue ontoMatema, andfrom Kyela,it’s afewKyela toIpinda(TSh1500), of which there are basic guesthouses. several private vehicle. Ifyouget stuckinIpinda, Matemaa liftbetween andIpindawitha Chances are better onweekends forfinding Matema backtoIpindaare around 6.30am. Matema 35km).Departures (TSh1500, from 2pm, whenthere’s usuallyapick-up to towaitaroundIpindauntilabout then need twohours). bank(TSh2000, You’ll NBC around 8amfromtheroundabout bythe From Tukuyu,pick-upstoIpinda depart Road afternoon. Note thattheMV lakeshore, arrivingatMatema inthemid- its wayfromItungiPortdowntheeastern The MV Boat THERE&AWAYGETTING bathroomUS$25) private r US$15-30perroom,dwithshared bathroomUS$8,with through theLutheranmissioninTukuyu. through is available. Youcanalsomake bookings bank)tobesure space hill fromtheNBC the LutheranmissioninTukuyu(justdown- withadvancenotice.and meals with Check lapidated beachside placehassimplerooms, to Malawi. to headbackItungiPortifyou’re going stophere,doesn’t which meansyou’llneed Lutheran GuestHouse The Lutheranmission inTukuyucan There are alsosporadicpick-upsfrom Iringa ( p261 ) stopsatMatema on Agoodplaceonthe

( Thischarmingly di- www.lonelyplanet.com % 0744-606225, 025-255 Songea (p260) to spendadayortwo. fringed beach, itmakes anagreeable place low-key ambienceandattractive palm- Tanzanian Withits Nyasa. portonLake This relaxing outpostisthesouthernmost Mbamba Bay www.lonelyplanet.com here. ities; it’spossibletobuyTanzanian visas near theboatlandingforpassport formal- stop attheimmigrationpost/police station Tanzania to you’llneed viaMbambaBay, Enteringto Liulimissionstation. orleaving lawi), see p260 . (Ma- Bay ferry connectionswithNkhata andItungiport,see Mbamba Bay p261 . For each of thetwolegs). vehicles for atMbinga(atleastTSh2500 rivals, butyou’llgenerally tochange need Songea, usuallycoordinated withferry ar- beach. town after thebridge, headingtowards the Lodge. Neema through Continuestraight here aren’t worththeextracompared with as youenter town. To get here turnleftjustbefore thebridge withbasicroomsandmeals. place tostay, with shared bathroomTSh6000) r withshared bathroomTSh5000) Neema Lodge Northbound, there are occasional4WDs between ofFor details ferry services There are occasionaldirect vehicles from Another place to stay is Another placetostay colonial sentiment, kindling themovementcolonial sentiment, kindling towards independence. promoted development of a nationalidentityamong manyethnic groupsandintensified anti- lives, large areas ofthe southwere leftdevastated, andmalnutrition waswidespread. harmed –hencethe nameMaji( bullets wouldturn to water them,andthattheirwarriors wouldtherefore before killing notbe grain siloswere setonfire. Fatalities were exacerbated byabeliefamongtheAfricans thatenemy inwhich fieldsand tactics, and duetothefamine precipitated bytheGermans’‘scorched-earth’ and Lindiinthesoutheast toSongeainthesouthwest.Thousands died,bothon thebattlefield in thearea onthe coast. SoonallofsouthernTanzania aroundKilwa, wasinvolved, from Kilwa the colonialgovernment rebellion. The combined toignite firstoutbreak apowerful was in1905 able conditions. Before longanger atthisharshtreatment andlong-simmering resentment of manyofwhomwereof workers, recruited asforcedlabourandrequired toworkundermiser- line runningfromDaresSalaamtowards Morogoro. These plantationsrequired large numbers establishing enormouscottonplantations nearthesoutheastern coastandalongtherailway East Africa. Itbeganabouttheturnof 20thcenturywhencolonialadministratorssetabout The Maji rebellion wasthestrongestlocal revolt againstthecolonialgovernment inGerman THE MAJI MAJI REBELLION The uprisingresulted inthetemporary liberalisation ofcolonial rule. More significantly,it By 1907,whenthe rebellion wasfinally suppressed, closeto100,000people hadlosttheir (Mama Simba’s; (Mama , though therooms , though isthebestvalue % Nyasa View Mbamba Bay3; maji meanswater inSwahili).

(d with shared bathroomTSh2000/3500) look like amajor metropolis ifyou’ve just Songea isabustlingregional thatwill capital % SONGEA of Tanzania, look for and withaGPS.Forfew route suggestions, tobeunderyourownsteamhiking willneed zon. There’s notouristinfrastructure, soany surrounded byhillsthatrollintothehori- Kipengere range mountain atalmost 2000m, ontheeastern edgescenic setting of the completely unmemorablebutforitshighly Njombe isaworkadaytownthatwouldbe % NJOMBE in theLutheranchurch compound. south of alongthemainroad, thebusstand es Salaam, and TSh5000 to/fromSongea.es Salaam,andTSh5000 toDar andTSh17,500 TSh14,000 between direct bustoMbeya. Scandinavian charges port toMbeya,andthere’s alsoatleastone to Makambako, where youcanget trans- Songea three (TSh5000, tofourhours) and signposted tothewest. of town,andabout500moffthemainroad, ally hot)andmeals.It’sabout2kmnorth Njombe’s best,withrunningwater (usu- THE SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Njombe Chani Motel Minibuses go daily between Njombe and godailybetween Minibuses Lutheran Centre GuestHouse Lutheran Centre 025 026 A Guidetothe Southern Highlands available atsomehotels.

( % 278 2357;s/dTSh8500/10,500) isabout700m

( % 278 2403;s/d

235

is TANZANIA TANZANIA TSh3000/3500) bathroomshared bathroomTSh2000/2500,withprivate h 400m totheAnglicanchurch compound. ing. Goleftandwindyourwaybackabout pastthemarketstand totheTanesco build- a smallrestaurant. Head uphillfromthebus just northwestof themainroad.Nextdooris transport to Mbamba Bay (TSh3000). (TSh3000). transport toMbamba Bay hours), fromwhere you canget onward four in themornings to Mbinga(TSh3500, or SuperFeo andhave themdropyouoff. daily inthemorning,ortake Scandinavian in each direction hours). eight (TSh10,000, 13 hours); it’sbesttobookinadvance. ordinary/luxury,12to(TSh17,000/19,000 nary) and6.15am(luxury)forDar es Salaam Scandinavian departsdailyat6am(ordi- &Away There Getting stand. church thebus hind theCatholic andnear roomsjustoff themainroad,be- Spartan TSh15,000) Angoni ArmsHotel Sleeping &Eating Internet, try and travellers cheques, andhasanATM. For near theMaji Maji museum. ( p235 ), andisburiedabout1kmfromtown was killedfollowingtheMaji Maji rebellion name fromoneof theirgreatest chiefs, who during the19thcentury.Songea takes its migrated intothearea fromSouthAfrica main ethnicgrouphere istheNgoni,who The come fromTunduruorMbambaBay. 236 are atthe western end of town. There are Songea andMasasi. The better guesthouses herea night ifyou’re travelling between Wild West feel to it. gemstone-mining region andhasabit of a and Masasi, isinthecentre of animportant Dusty SongeaTunduru, halfway between TUNDURU market, alongtheTunduru road. and arestaurant. It’sabout1kmfromthe range, withcleanensuite rooms,hotwater Don Bosco Hostel Don BoscoHostel For Mbamba Bay, transport goes daily transportgoes For MbambaBay, andpick-ups go To Njombe,minibuses To Mbeya,SuperFeo departsat6amdaily behindthemarket, changesNBC, cash Anglican ChurchHostel 9am-6pm) SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Reserve Game ••Selous Theonlychoice approaching mid- Cleanroomswithmosquitonets, , nearby. Valongo Internet Café Valongo Internet

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ed tospend (per hrTSh2000; Although overallAlthough wildlife density is lower Rufiji River northwards is openfor tourism. boat safaris. and which offers excellentopportunities for est water-catchment areas Africa, inEast wide RufijiRiver, which hasoneof thelarg- moststrikingfeaturesof thereserve’s isthe Tanzania’s lastremaining blackrhinos.One diles, arich varietyof birdlife and someof wilddogs,hippos andcroco- of buffaloes, numbers of elephants,aswellpopulations protected area. Itprovides shelter forlarge andTanzania’slife reserve mostextensive isAfrica’slargest wild- lous GameReserve (5% of Tanzania’s landarea), total the Se- With anarea of approximately 45,000sqkm RESERVE SELOUS GAME amenities are available atfive-star prices. where afullrange of GameReserve, Selous ceptions tothisare Mafia Islandandthe journeys. Themainex- the long,hardroad and beready things,especiallyon torough ing Mikindani,LindiandKilwaKivinje. includ- tradingsettlements, and oldSwahili archaeological sites;rica’s mostimportant KilwaKisiwani,oneof Af- Mnazi Bay); East are twomarineparks(atMafia Islandand there GameReserve, addition totheSelous anyone ventures thiswaytodiscover it.In and long,white-sandbeaches,hardly though areaner isavast,beautiful of opensavanna Tanzania’s often forgotten southeastern cor- TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN water withyou. wake youbefore departure. Bringfoodand you canarrange forthedriver tocomeand Rover neartheLand guesthouse ‘station’, departing at6am).Ifyouare ata staying and 7am),usuallyonebus(TSh10,000, 11 hours, 3am departingTundurubetween Rovers, to which eight godaily(TSh17,000, and Songea, themainoptionsare Land Tunduru to10hours). Between 5am (seven Tunduru andMasasi, departingfromabout standard. from,allaroundthesame plenty tochose Only the section of the reserve from the ofOnly the section the reserve If youdecidetovisit,allowplenty of time There’s atleastonebusdailybetween www.lonelyplanet.com ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

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237 TANZANIA TANZANIA .saadani.com; s/dall-inclusive fromUS$340/450; drop-offs toandfromMlokaare free. fees. Pick-upsand per person, plus reserve wildlifesafaris, drives andwalks) costUS$35 withfood).Excursions (boat self-sufficient camping ground(for which tobe you’llneed choice, ensuite witheight tents andasmall 3km fromMlokavillage. It’sthebestbudget nearMtemereof theSelous Gate andabout about 500moutsidetheeastern bound ary US$70/100,excursionsextra) Mloka bypublicbusat specialforthosearriving 190, s/d‘backpackers’ -mbega-camp.com; campingUS$10,s/dfullboard US$135/ Selous MbegaCamp Selous LODGES &TENTEDCAMPS guided walks. others Tagalala), onLake wildlife drives and offer (someontheRufijiRiver, boatsafaris lodgesAll of andupmarket theSelous camps Sleeping entrygate atMtemeresecond totheeast. western edge andthere’s of a theSelous, headquarters isatMatambwe onthenorth- Thereserve or US$20forwalkingsafaris. guard incampingareas. GuidescostUS$10, US$20 perdayfee foramandatorywildlife fees are discounted. There’s anadditional camp sites. Children’s entryandcamping costsUS$20/40atordinary/special Camping person, plusUS$30pervehicle perday. costsUS$30per Admission tothereserve Information spentataflycamp. the night hikes nearthecamps,orfurtherafieldwith usuallythree-hourorganise walkingsafaris, by mostof thecampsandlodges. Mostalso lakes areRufiji orinthereserve’s offered parts of yourtravels. downthe Boatsafaris cooped upin4WDvehicles duringother a welcomechange of paceifyou’ve been oronfoot; can explorebyboat thereserve ern circuit.Anotheradvantage isthatyou but withoutthecongestion of thenorth- plentyof wildlife,you’ll stillbeabletosee visitor numbers are alsolower,which means than insomeof thenorthern-circuitparks, 238 Accommodation isin cosyen suite stone inan areareserve, known for itselephants. outside the northwestern boundary of the Matambwe Gate village, andKisaki just This relaxed placeisabout halfwaybetween Sable MountainLodge SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Reserve Game ••Selous

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022-265 0250,www.selous ( % Alaid-back camp 022-211 0507;www s ) and lounge area andimpeccableservice. kela, dining with12spacious tents, araised arm of theRufijioverlooking Nzele- Lake arranged. have river views,andflycampingcanbe is frequented bypodsof hippos.Alltents River about1kminsideMtemere Gate, and a finelocationonwidebendintheRufiji andunpretentiouslong-standing camphas per personall-inclusiveUS$485) flight-accommodation deals. flight-accommodation advantage of someof Travels’ Coastal ( p118 ) camps,andgoodvalueifyoutake Selous just sixtents, it’soneof thesmallestof the borassus palmsandothervegetation. With on theriverbank Mzizimiaamid nearLake TSh5000) arranged withtheWildlife Division ( p113 ). and Matambwe. Special campsites canbe Tagalala,at Lake Mtemere midwaybetween Bridge, 12kmsoutheastof Matambwe, and There are Beho ordinarycampsites atBeho CAMPING US$525/700; .coastal.cc; s/dall-inclusiveUS$430/700) trainstation. Kisaki and pick-upsare provided toand fromthe drives Free drop-offs outsidethereserve. wildlifewalking safaris, drives andnight and there’s atree Excursions house. include cottages orinplusherhoneymoon water. with you, includingso bring everything tostockup, GameReserve near the Selous packer deals; see left which alsohassome good back- Camp, . There’s nowhere east of Mtemere Mbega Gate atSelous Kilengezibetween andDutumi. able. It’sabout60km north of Matambwe There’s apittoiletand bathingwater isavail- canalsobearranged.walking safaris upmarketthrough travel agents. Multiday wildlife guides.Bookingscanonlybemade and someof Tanzania’s mostrenowned luxuriousstonecottages option, witheight Tagalala, mostexclusive thisistheSelous’ its ownontheRufijiRiver south of Lake tours.com; s/d all-inclusiveUS$310/500; Selous ImpalaCamp Selous Sand Rivers Selous Sand Rivers Jukumu Society ScoutStationCampsite Jukumu Camp Rufiji River It’s alsopossible topitch yourtent just Camp Safari Selous Thisisrunbylocal wildlife scouts. s ) A luxurious camp set onaside Aluxuriouscampset

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239 C3 C3 C3 A2 C3 B1 B2 B3 TANZANIA TANZANIA Utende road, inthetowncentre. Utende a tween Dar and stations intheSelous). Darandstations tween Friday (US$120/180oneway/return be- in themorningonSunday,Tuesdayand Departuresstations. inbothdirections are Kinyanguru, Fuga,Matambwe andKisaki NationalPark,Udzungwa Mountains via to Kidatu,25kmnorthof theentrygate for islands of JuaniandJibondo. eastern shores of Mafia andonthenearby turtles, which have nestingsites alongthe a breeding groundforgreen andhawksbill tional marinepark.Mafia as isalsonotable islets andwaters, have gazetted asana- been ern partof theisland, together withoffshore formations. Toprotect this,thesoutheast- number of aquatic speciesanddiverse coral under water environment, which hostsavast life,coastal Mafia’s mainattractionisits and thechance toexperienceslow-paced Kilwa andZanzibar. early 18thcenturyasatradecentre linking decline, Mafia againbegan toflourishinthe African coast.Followingalengthyperiodof when theShirazis ruledmuch of theEast ing postfromthe11thto13thcenturies, nearby Zanzibar. trad- Itwasanimportant tooverwhelmmass tourismthat’sstarting out of tohave thewayenough escapedthe it’sstill ually comingintoitsown,although the beaten trackforyears, theislandisgrad- After remaining seas. welloff and thehigh theRufijiRiver between sandwiched delta Mafia thecoast, Islandlies about120kmoff % ISLAND MAFIA 237422, 0744-237422;www.safariexpress.info) direction there are often longdelays. asinthereverse GameReserve, the Selous best totake thetrainfromDaresSalaamto (arranged inadvance),see p265 . Itworks 240 pounds). changescash only(dollars, euros and the main junction; Bank National Microfinance Café Internet tion office. doubles asatouristinforma- port office Hotel inKilindoni.Pole PoleResort’sair- Telephone callscanbemadeatNewLizu Information

private luxurytrainfromDaresSalaam Apart fromitslackof hustleandbustle For atreat, 023 SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Island ••Mafia (perhrTSh1500; Foxes African Safaris African Foxes On the airport road,near Ontheairport h 9am-9pm) On

operate ( % 0748- ὄ Mfa Island Mafia Harbour View. low the waterside roadforabout 500mto and gointo theportarea; turn left,andfol- arranged. Head down thehillinKilindoni overlookinghouse theharbour;foodcan be Clean, good-value budget rooms inasmart Resort Harbour View BUDGET Sleeping &Eating courses. ing andsnorkelling, includingcertification and blueduikers, amongothers. Beach lighthouse windswept northernmostpoint, there’s a offshore. At are afew and smallislets pristinesandbanks groves, butif you’re lookingforbeach, there Most of theislandissurroundedbyman- Sights &Activities TSh12,000, with private bathroom&air-conTSh15,000; TSh12,000, withprivate bathroom &fanTSh7500, dwithshared bathroom&air-con room TSh5000/10,000) MAFIA ISLAND New Lizu Hotel Most of hotels organise theCholeBay div- andaforest that’shometomonkeys Mrima Marine Park Bwejuu Mafia Island Reef I NDA O CEAN Kisimani Ras dating to1892,aswell ὄ Kilindoni Shungumbili Ras Mkumbi Ras Mange Reef Nyororo Kitoni

Reasonable rooms (no frills, ( % Kitutia Reef 240 2683; s/dwith shared bath- ( Utende % Baleni www.lonelyplanet.com 240 2692;swithshared , Mafia’s wildand Kua Jibondo Boundary ofMafiaIsland Mbarakuni Chole Chole Bay 6miles 10km 0 0 Marine Park Mafia Juani Mkumbi Ras Kinasi Pass Bweni Kirongwe Kanga Kanga a ) are US$10perperson each way. resident dive instructor. Airport transfers 300m infromthe water, arestaurant anda of renovated rooms,allabout andstandard more upmarket neighbours. There’s amix or tastes don’tstretch atoneof toastay its isagoodchoice if yourbudget Bay Chole The formergovernment hotel, thislodge on private verandas, meals are madeprimarily structed of localmaterials and have large, Thebungalows arelooking Chole Bay. con- tropical vegetation onalonghillside over- amid palmtreesbeautiful placeisset and tre, inataxi). (TSh2000 behindthehospital order. It’sabout2kmfrom Kilindoni’s cen- simple twin-bedded clean bucket showers. There are alsoafew above onacliff on alawnset thewater, and the airfield. in Kilindoni,aboutafive-minute walkfrom a convenient locationatthe main junction no nets),bucket baths, goodcheap foodand www.lonelyplanet.com entry fee. topaytheUS$10dailypark you’ll alsoneed within themarineparkarea, which means the April–May Allare rainyseason. also hotels are Bay during All theChole closed MIDRANGE &TOPEND per personwithshared bathroomUS$12) campingUS$5,bandas 696067; [email protected]; .com; s/d full board & airport transfers US$260/400) .com; s/dfullboard&airport .mafialodge.com; Utende; s/dfromUS$52/75; .mafialodge.com; Utende; Pole Pole Resort Pole Resort Sunset Resort Camp Sunset Resort Mafia IslandLodge Mafia again whenyouleave. The before Utende, andcanbepaidinanymajorcurrency, cash.Save yourreceipt, asit’schecked per adult/childday.The fees are collected atabarriergate acrossthemainroadabout1km youout. local fishermantotake orsetyouupwitha own gear,theparkofficemaybeabletohelpyououtwithsnorkelling hotelsis toorganise atCholeBay.Ifyouhave adivingexcursionwithoneofthetop-end your resource usetocoexist. and assisting localcommunitiestodevelop thatwillallowconservation sustainablepractices for theirlivelihoods. As aresult, theparkhasbeenclassifiedasamulti-usearea, withtheaimof 10 villageswithinthepark’sboundaries,inhabitantsofwhichdependon its naturalresources clude theonlyn unique complexofestuarine,mangrove, ecosystems. coral-reef andmarine-channel These in- Mafia IslandMarinePark –thelargest marineprotected area intheIndianOcean–shelters a MAFIA ISLANDMARINE PARK Entry intothemarineparkarea (payablebyeveryone, whetheryoudive ornot)costsUS$10/5 The parkisn’tsetupfortourism,especiallyatthebudgetlevel. The mainwaytoexplore it

( atural forest ontheislandandcloseto400fishspecies. There are alsoabout % (

bandas ( 022-260 1530;www.polepole % % 022-211 7959/60;www 240 2522, ext 45,0745- 240 2522,ext park office andmealson Camping ai

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SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Island ••Mafia hire, plusadive centre andexcursions. asmallbeach andwindsurfer satellite TV, ambience. There’s anopenlounge area with andagenteel,down toCholeBay, subdued around a choice, with12stone-and-thatch cottages set US$185/320; transfers from .mafiaisland.com; s/dfullboard&airport US$210/360) port transfers cost extra. Chole Island,offshore from Utende. Air- has itsownoutdoor shower garden.It’son are where atgroundlevel, each tree house There’s noelectricity,andthebathrooms each accommodatinguptothree people. bay, themangroves ruins,and ortheChole onitsownwithviewsovereach set the ple of which are actuallylowerstilthouses), imaginatively (acou- designedtree houses Accommodationisinsix the placetostay. Mjini ambience,Chole but comfortable is inthetreetopsaway issleeping inarustic for relaxing. Excursions canbe arranged. and there’s anopen-sided with organic ingredients andare delicious, available basisfor nonguests. Allthe Chole ona space- aircraft forguests, with seats andArusha. KinasiLodge hasitsown serve Game Re- Selous connections toZanzibar, Kilwa Masoko (US$70), bothwith onward ing Mafia withDaresSalaam(US$90) and AviationCoastal connect- hasdaily flights &Away There Getting isinUtende nearPoleResort. Chole Mjini Kinasi Lodge Kinasi Ifyourideaof theultimate get- long, manicured hillsidesloping s

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([email protected]; s/dall-inclusive Thisisanothertop-notch ( % 022-284 2525,0741-242977;www duara (gazebo)

241 TANZANIA TANZANIA Omani-Arab architecture. intriguing mixture of and German-colonial small-townfeel and an past with aSwahili covered atmosphericrelic andhighly of the to anend. Today,it’sa crumbling, moss- came Kivinje’s briefperiod inthespotlight wartimedefeats, Kilwa trade, andGerman tive centre. Withthe abolitionof the slave administra- the late 19thcentury, a German the regional slave-trading network,andby hadbecomethehuboftury thesettlement of theKilwasultanate. Bythemid-19th cen- in theearly19thcenturyfollowing thefall here upabase from KilwaKisiwaniwhoset Trees) owesitsexistence toOmani Arabs Kilwa Kivinje(Kilwaof theCasuarina KILWA KIVINJE dependingonthedestination. TSh3000, topayfrom Expect sporadic localservice. and theotherislands,there isalso a KilindoniandUtende.tween returnexpect topayaboutTSh15,000 be- Kilindoni totake youaroundtheisland; to theport.Youcanalsohire pick-ups in dala destination about7am.TheKilindoni Bweni atabout1pm,returning from each Daladalas Around Getting TakeSalaam–Mtwara road. a 45km southeastof MkurangaontheDares as noted). guests (includedintheroomprice,except hotels arrangeBay airfieldtransfers fortheir 242 are asatKisiju. thesame boarding procedure anddeparture times boats leave fromtheportatKilindoni.The much longer. Goingintheother direction, late afternoon, thetripcantake although good winds,youshouldarrive inMafia by onituntildeparture.9pm andsleep With the late afternoon, theboatatabout board usual procedure istoarrive in Kisijuin tides andare generally before dawn.The Departuresabout TSh4000. dependonthe two exceptSundayforMafia, andcharge twohours).Kisiju (TSh2000, from where pick-upsdailygoto several 8km southof thecityalongKilwaroad), Dar esSalaamtoMtoni-Mtongani(about Local boatscanbechartered toJibondo Dhows gototheislandfromKisiju,about From Kisiju,dhowsleave dayor every SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN Kivinje ••Kilwa stop is along the road that goes down stopisalongtheroadthatgoes tobothUtende and (TSh1500) daladala from dala- .net; campingUS$5,s/d/trUS$60/70/75) TSh4500) andspacetopitchTSh4500) atent. agoodrestaurant from (meals bizi Beach, small escarpmentattheeastern endof Jim- breezy A-frame cottages perched alonga Kilwa Kivinje. es SalaamandKilwaMasoko alsostopsat Kilwa Masoko, Dar andthebusbetween market andNewSudiGuestHouse. are KingWardoandMziwandanear the other ingrubbiness.Amongthebetter ones andallrivallingeach for aboutTSh3000, nearthemarket,guesthouses allwithrooms tions are limited toaclutch of nondescript day tripfromKilwaMasoko. op- Overnight shared bathroomTSh3000,s/dbandaTSh5000/10,000) onwards. inexpensive fish and other snacksfrom dusk themainstreettween andthemarket, sells andabar.local dishes, outdoorseating place, diagonallyacross fromNewMjaka, has New Mjaka GuestHouse & Hotel New Mjaka Sleeping &Eating sand. of anattractive, baobab-studdedarc Beach, cheques; there’s noInternet connection. main roadchanges cashbutnottravellers history. nificant erasof Africancoastal East such, the gateway intooneof themostsig- at KilwaKisiwaniandSongoMnara,as ruins of the15th-centuryArabsettlements Market) isthespringboardforvisiting the The townof Kilwa Masoko (Kilwaof the KILWA MASOKO as canexcursions. kayaks anddivingcanalsobearranged, sea popular beachside bar. Inadditiontofishing, a few beachside chalets, arestaurant anda backfromthewater,rustic ensuite cabinsset camp inthecentre with of JimbiziBeach, restaurant. a reasonably reliable water supplyanda This hotel hasno-frills rooms,nicer standard/luxury chaletUS$70/110; JimbiziBeach;perpersonfullboard [email protected]; Kilwa Lodge Kilwa Pick-ups travel timesdailyto/from several The bestwaytovisitKilwaKivinjeisasa Kilwa’s atmospheric night market,Kilwa’s atmospheric night be- On theeastern edge of townisJimbizi The NationalMicrofinance onthe Bank Roadside ClassicPark Kilwa Seaview Resort Seaview Kilwa

( % 023-240 2397,0748-205586;kilwa

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Kla Masoko Kilwa www.lonelyplanet.com the main road. airstrip isabout 2km northof town along andKilwa (US$130oneway). The Zanzibar US$70 one wayMafia–Kilwa), andbetween (US$110 onewayDares SalaamtoKilwa, from DaresSalaam toKilwaviaMafia AviationCoastal hasthree weekly flights &Away There Getting 4 1 3 2 5 KILWA MASOKO To KilwaKivinje(25km); Nangurukuru (35km); Lindi (200km);Dar es Salaam(320km) 8 Anglican Church Transport toKilwaKivinje& Jetty &boatstoKilwaKisiwani, A2 National MicrofinanceBank...... Nangurukuru...... SongoMnara&Pande...... Buses toDaresSalaam...... Roadside ClassicPark...... Night Market...... New MjakaGuestHouse&Hotel...... Kilwa Lodge...... District Commissioner'sOffice...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION A 1 4 Masoko Urban Health Centre 9

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Lumumba St Lumumba Mapinduzi St Mapinduzi

5 J St Kariakoo imb 3 izi Be ac I NDA O CEAN h Catholic Church Some MinorRoads not Depicted B To KilwaSeaview 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Resort (200m) Upepo Pwani Pwani (4km); A2 A3 B2 A2 B2 A2 B3 A3 To Masoko (4km) SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN Kisiwani ••Kilwa able year-round. Masoko, pass- anditshouldsoonbeeasily road fromtheRufijiRiver southtoKilwa main roadjustupfromthemarket. timesdailyfromthe pick-ups departseveral 45minutes),and KilwaKivinje(TSh1000, from theTemeke busstand. advance. Departures inDaresSalaamare from themarket, andshouldbebooked in nine to10hours).fromKilwadepart Buses in each direction atabout5am(TSh6500, full LindiorMtwarafare. (35km), butyou’llgenerally topaythe need 11km)orKilwaMasokoKivinje (TSh500, where youcanget localtransporttoKilwa and get outatNangurukurujunction,from to get abusheadingtoLindiorMtwara to Lindi. from where there isavehicle mostmornings trade centre Africancoast. along theEast trade, and itsoonbecame the mostpowerful trol Sofala anddominate its lucrative gold Mozambique. Ultimately, Kilwa cametocon- Sofala, 1500kmtothesouthin present-day with early 13thcentury tradelinksdeveloped back onlytoaround the9thcentury.In of intheareaevidence earlysettlements dates years, thousand inhabitedbeen for several KilwaKisiwani has the coastnear Although History have indecades. been of theruinsare more accessible thanthey work isunderway,andthemain sections World Heritage Site. Major re habilitation andhavecan coast, declared been aUnesco groups of Afri- Swahili buildingsontheEast considered tobeoneof themostsignificant with theruinsof SongoMnara–are nearby Today theruinsof –together thesettlement gold fieldsof ZimbabwewiththeOrient. tre of avasttrading networklinkingthe of andthecen- sultans –theseat settlement trading Africa’smostimportant once East historically knownsimplyasKilwa)was KILWA KISIWANI Kilwa Kisiwani(‘KilwaontheIsland’, tunes beganto turn.Sofala freed from itself Rehabilitation workisunderway onthe Rehabilitation To Nangurukuru (TSh1500, onehour) To Nangurukuru(TSh1500, To DaresSalaam,abusdepartsdaily From DaresSalaamit’salsopossible Heading south,gofirst toNangurukuru, In the late 15th century Kilwa’s for-

243 TANZANIA TANZANIA inland route. beach longer atlowtide,ortake theslightly very overgrown. Toget here, walkalong the oldest of now KilwaKisiwani’sruins, though h together withthenearby buildings covering about0.8hectares and, is asmaller theGreatlate Mosque 13th century.Behind Mosque the fortare theruinsof thenowrestored century byOmaniArabs.Tothesouthwest of find istheArab ing Kilwa Kisiwani,thefirst buildingyou’ll The ruinsare intwogroups.Whenapproach- Ruins commissioner’s office perperson)mit (TSh1500 fromthe togetTo visittheruins,youwillneed aper- Information tration wasrelocated toKilwaKivinje. completely declinedandthelocaladminis- the mid-19thcenturyislandtownhad under thecontrolof of thesultan Oman.By and Comoros.Inthe1780sKilwacame of slaves totheislandsof Mauritius, Ré union timeasacentreagain –this shipment forthe pendence andbecameasignificantcentre years later thatKilwaregained itsinde- trol of Itwasn’tuntil200 thePortuguese. 16th centuryKilwacameunderthecon- the island’sdominance,andinearly 244 There’s port fee. also aTSh300 return(TSh10,000 for aboat withmotor). each costsTSh1000 way ing your ownboat are passengers Charter- (one wayTSh200). Masoko there toKilwaKisiwani whenever Local boatsgo from theportatKilwa &Away There Getting ties Office, or through yourhotel. orthrough ties Office, island) canbearranged theAntiqui- through Guides (requiredtiquities Office). tovisitthe (An- Room 13,oraskforOfisiyaUtamaduni agonally acrossfromthepostoffice. Goto is lived someof of thesultans KilwaKisiwani. large walledenclosure inthecentre of which are thecrumblingremains of the Kisiwani. Tothewestof thesmallmosque of thebuildings atKilwa the bestpreserved early 15thcenturyandisconsidered to be Husuni Kubwa About 1.5kmfromthefortalongcoast 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN ••SongoMnara , some sections of, somesections which date tothe mosque , onceamassive complexof fort

(Halmashauri ya Wilaya ya Kilwa; yaWilayaKilwa; (Halmashauri , which dates from the , builtintheearly19th in KilwaMasoko, di- Husuni Ndogo Makutani district district , the Great Great , a Gift GuestHouse;thebestplaceformedicalemergencies. Gift konde Sts;r withshared bathroomTSh5000) Malaika Sleeping &Eating NBC Café Internet Dispensary Brigita Information food onweekends. withsoft drinksand road isMtema Beach, once-prosperous traderoutes totheeast. asreminders ofand Indianmerchants serve line thedustystreets, andaHindu temple doorways andcrumblingruins of carved Asmattering traffic. tles withlocalcoastal further north,itssmalldhowport stillbus- asatmosphericKilwaKivinje not nearly southeastern Tanzania. it’s Today,although andthemaintownin gional colonialcapital slave caravan there- route Nyasa, fromLake domain,aterminus of oftan the Zanzibar’s In itsearlydays, Lindi waspart of thesul- % LINDI the boatdepartsPande about1pm. Songo Mnara. ReturningtoKilwaMasoko, Masoko forPande thatwillstoponrequest at most morningsatabout6amfromKilwa far cheaper localdhowdeparting motorised return).(TSh35,000 Alternatively, there’s a inKilwaMasokotrict commissioner’soffice mit includestheruinsatSongoMnara. era. TheKilwaKisiwaniper-from thesame todate ruins,alsobelieved has somelesser SongoMnaraandKilwaMasoko,between pressive. The small islandof they’reat Kilwa,although lessvisually im- respects tobemore significantthanthose 15th centuries,andare considered inmany that are todate believed fromthe14thand ruinsatitsnorthernend Kisiwani, contains Songo Mnara,about8kmsouthof Kilwa SONGO MNARA A few restaurant. blocksupfromthe harbour,nearMuna’s more basic, alternative ifMalaika isfull. Market Stfrom Malaika, and adecent, albeit a decent restaurant. no-frills rooms withnetandfan.There’s also One blockeastof themarket withclean, About 6kmnorthof townoff theairfield You cancharter fromthedis- amotorboat Gift GuestHouse Gift 023 (Lumumba St)Changescashandtravellers cheques.

( % 220 2880; Market St;s/dTSh7500/9000) 220 2880;Market (Amani St;perhrTSh2000; ( % ( % 220 2679; Makonde St)Near 220 2679;Makonde 220 2462; cnr Market &Ma- 220 2462;cnr Market www.lonelyplanet.com Sanje yaKati h Justdown 9am-7pm) ,

Msinjaili primaryschool. the towardsMtwara,near road thatgoes rooms withnetandfan.It’sjustoff themain change. eral years –expectallthisinformationto Salaam –anticipated withinthenext sev- LindiandDaresis completed between onward transport.OncetheTarmac road hours), fromwhereto seven youcanget and get six outatNangurukuru(TSh6500, tocatchyou’ll need theDaresSalaambus Kivinje. Toget toeitherof places these fromLinditoKilwaMasokobuses orKilwa ing Lindiabout6am.There are nodirect hours), there are direct daily,depart- buses each morning. buses about 5amand10am. 20km northof town. tions toNachingwea. Theairfieldisabout es SalaamandLindi,withonwardconnec- Precision Dar between Airfliestwiceweekly &Away There Getting meals. the harbour,Muna’shasgood,inexpensive www.lonelyplanet.com ness andbanking area to thenorthwest, centredMtwara isloosely around abusi- Orientation came to a standstill. channel, of whiledevelopment thetown asaregional export port continuedto serve ing thefailure of thescheme, Mtwara’s groundnut (peanut) production.Follow- of the implementation large-scalethrough thepostwarshortage ofleviating plantoils Groundnut Scheme, a project aimed atal- by theBritishaspartof African theirEast likable place. to/from Mozambique,andisalaid-back, pointontheoverlandgood staging journey overlooked,eraries andiseasily butit’sa mosttouristitin- It’swelloff Mtwara Bay. tlement, isasprawling,friendly town on Mtwara, southeastern Tanzania’s major set- % MTWARA TSh4000) Adela GuestHouse Muna’s For Dar es Salaam (TSh15,000, nine to 11 nineto For DaresSalaam(TSh15,000, To Masasi there (TSh3000), are several toMtwaradepartdailybetween Buses Mtwara wasfirst after developed WWII 023 Anotherbudget stand-by, withbasic

(Amani St;mealsTSh2000) (Ghana St;rwithshared bathroom Justupfrom Mtwara Lindi (100km) Mikindani (10km); To Airport(5km);

4 6 1 3 2 5 Jamhuri MTWARA SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mtwara 6 VETA (2.5km) & CliffBar(1km); To Drive-InGarden 7 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION St Paul'sChurch...... Market...... TTCL...... NBC Bank&ATM...... aod e...... B3 Makonde Net...... Ligula I NDA Mikindani Rd O CEAN

Shangani

Roundabout Saba Saba Rd Saba Saba A Main

10 Zambia Rd Zambia Chikongola taaLtea ete...... A5 Mtwara LutheranCentre...... Pick-ups toMsimbati &Kilambo(for A4 Air Tanzania...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING Southern CrossHotel...... Nandope GuestHouse...... Taxi Stand...... Mozambique)...... MV SafariBooking Office...... Bus &TaxiStand...... Shabu Restaurant...... Safina...... Mtwara DeluxeHotel...... 12 Shangani Tanu Rd Makonde Rd

Shangani 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Shangani Rd Shangani Beach 5 4 3 2 1

16

Majengo B5 B4 B3 B3 Uhuru Rd Uhuru

Makonde Cathedral 1 Dhow Port& 3 11 Fish Market 2

13 9 Rd Port Rd B Aga KhanRd Canoe Ferry 14 Msangamkuu 8

Peninsula

4 Sokoine Rd Sokoine 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Mtwara 9 8 7 6

15 Bay 5

Port 245 B1 A4 B3 B4 B3 B4 B3 A1 B4 TANZANIA TANZANIA Majengo area of town,southof themarket. pressive artwork,stopby tideonly).Forsomeim- on weekends (high beach the earlymorningandlate afternoon. The ing private bathroomTSh10,000) private Rd; dmTSh2500,dwithshared bathroomTSh5000, s with bathroom TSh3500) your left. for about1.5kmtothesmallsignpost on and followtheroadparalleling beach in Shangani: goleftatthemainjunction inexpensive restaurant andsmallbar. It’s shady, secure spotforcamping,withan supplies, and meals onrequest.supplies, andmeals with nets),fairlyreliable water andelectricity Drive-In Garden &CliffBar Garden Drive-In BUDGET Sleeping andthesmall wara Bay, ontheother sideoffrom Msangamkuu Mt- main building.Much of Mtwara’sfishcomes next tothetraditional-medicine section In townthere’s alively Sights &Activities TTCL NBC Net Makonde Information guesthouses. several Shangani quarter, withasmallbeach and isthe minutes onfootfromthebusstand, andagood30 the farnorthwestonsea, bourhoods of Majengo andChikongola. In the southeast,bordered bythelively neigh- market about1.5kmawayto andbusstand near Uhuru andAga Rds,andthe Khan 246 and views over thewater, plusa restaurant. Good-value rooms, allwith alarge bed, TV VETA MIDRANGE has anATM. and internationalcalls,acardphone. 9am-12.30pmSat)Operator-assisteddomestic Mon-Fri, the unpaved thepolice station. roadnear nets. It’sabout400m westof Tanu Rd,down with no-frills rooms,somewithmosquito Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) Just off Aga Khan Rdinthetowncentre. Sat, 9am-2pmSun)JustoffAga Khan Mtwara LutheranCentre Nandope GuestHouse (UhuruRd)Changescashandtravellerscheques, SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA SOUTHEASTERN ••Mtwara (Tanu Rd; (Tanu fish market

inShangani ispopularforswimming ( % 233 4094;s TSh15,000,steTSh35,000; (perhrTSh1000; h are particularlycolourfulin Oneof thecheapest options, 7.45am-12.45pm &1.30-4.30pm

Decentrooms(most ( dhow port dhowport %

market h St Paul’s church (

% 233 4060;rwithshared (camping TSh2500) 8.30am-6pm Mon- 233 3294; Mikindani 233 3294;Mikindani withasmall and adjoin- inthe s A ) dinner) www.msemo.com; s/dUS$30/50) h the Mtwararegion. in hotel supportprimaryhealthcare services spotless, good-value rooms.Profits fromthe restaurant, andahandfulof seaside tasty of witharelaxing Shangani andvery Beach, rectly overlooks attheeastern end thesea flight arrivals anddepartures). flight arrivals drinks. ofIt hasagoodselection basics,pluscold catering, atthemainjunctioninShangani. hours) the southern route viaNanyamba, use are inthemornings. Tuesday. Departures intheother direction departs Mtwara ataround noondailyexcept about9am and11am.Thepostbus tween are daily,departing Mtwarabe- twobuses Songea. tochangeneed vehicles forTunduruand about 6amand2pm; onceinMasasi you’ll departapproximatelybuses hourlybetween ket; mostdepartures are inthemorning. themar- SokoineRdnear justoff bus stand departfromthemain buses All long-distance BUS Air Tanzania onehour)on Dar esSalaam(TSh144,500, There are Mtwara and between daily flights &Away There Getting Hotel are thebest.Otheroptionsinclude: ing, theonesatVETA andSouthernCross dock isgoodforstreet food. The fishmarket boat attheMsangamkuu Eating from town. chargeno publictransport;taxis TSh3000 to theleft(noswimmingbeach). There’s continue forabout3km.It’s200min From theT-junction inShangani, goleftand yogurt. localfare, snacksandfreshcentre, serving other dishes. Buses to Newala (TSh5000, six to eight six toeight toNewala (TSh5000, Buses threeTo Lindi(TSh2000, hours), there To Masasi five (TSh3500, to six hours), Shabu Restaurant Of therestaurants mentionedunderSleep- Southern CrossHotel Mtwara Deluxe Hotel Hotel Mtwara Deluxe Safina 8am-10pm Mon-Sat,to1pmSun) Near the bus stand, withIndianand Nearthebusstand, (Container Shop; ( % 233 3147;Tanu Rd; (Aga Khan Rd;mealsTSh1000; (Aga Khan

( (meals TSh2000; % h www.lonelyplanet.com This niceplacedi- 233 3206,0741-506047; 8am-9pm) Inthetown

h closed during closed during For self- h lunch & office Salaam andMtwara;see p125 . The BOAT grees South( right ), inMikindani. ferry are theOldBoma( right ) andTen De- p260 . Thebestplacesforinformationonthe For more oncrossingtheRuvumaRiver, see of theAaliyah TradingCompanybuilding. from theeastern sideof themarket infront 8amand11am.Departuresbetween are departingMtwaraat Kilambo(TSh3000), ups dailytotheTanzanian immigrationpost Salaam by8am. afternoon,ing andearly and from Dares morn- departing Mtwaraanytimebetween about20hours), (TSh17,000, times weekly in Masasi. thisoftenalthough anovernight entails stay daily. Youcanalsoreach NewalaviaMasasi, 6amand8amdeparting Mtwarabetween www.lonelyplanet.com the area. walking tours of town and excursions in office, and isthebestplace fororganising banking facilitiesareThe closest inMtwara. Information cluding theimpressive buildingsfromthe eraremain,several in- ters of colonialgovernment theGerman and asheadquar- 19th centuryMikindani served caravans travelling Inthe Nyasa. fromLake a major dhow portandaterminus fortrade initsownright. good base a daytripfromMtwara,andalso makes a and apicturesque visited bay.It’seasily as interesting history,lotsof coconutgroves townwithan Mikindani isatiny Swahili % MIKINDANI the busstand. few near thecornerof Uhuru andTanu Rds.A There are and ranksatthebusstand taxi east of themainroundabout)costTSh5000. Taxis toorfromtheairport (6kmsouth- Around Getting The MV from Shabu Restaurant. To Mozambique,there are pick- several To DaresSalaam,there are four buses The Old Boma hasatourist information The towngainedprominenceearly onas 023 daladalas

( % Safari 233 3591, 233 3550; Aga Khan St) 233 3591,3550;Aga Khan runalongTanu Rdtoand from sails weekly between Dares between weekly sails boma , builtin1895. isjustup booking booking .eco2.com; rwithshared bathroomUS$15-25) climb thetowerforviewsover town. terrace’ overlookingset thebay,oryoucan and iswellworthasplurge. There’s a ‘sun- ceilinged doublesandtop-endstandards, restored buildingoffers spacious,high- There’s noaccommodation. own equipment,and don’tbringvaluables). decent beaches andsnorkelling (bringyour lying directly opposite Mtwara offers some of PeninsulaThe section Msangamkuu Peninsula Msangamkuu in Mikindani. atTenbased Degrees SouthLodge ( above ) Msimbati village. ECO2, Fordiving,contact the marineparkoffice nearthe entrance to fees are US$10perday,and are collected at Pemba inMozambique. Marine parkentry area extending asfar of aconservation that ultimately theparkwillbecore much in theinitialstages, butit’shoped ecosystems.coastal Everything’s stillvery ing more than400marinespeciesaswell as as Tanzania’s marinepark,protect- second gazetted tothesouth,hasbeen Mnazi Bay of northeast Mtwara and,together withMsimbati and lies Peninsula Msangamkuu BAY–RUVUMA PARK MARINE ESTUARY PENINSULA&MNAZI MSANGAMKUU theday. throughout thetwotowns runbetween (TSh200) buses and aneasybike road, ride. Mini- sealed Mikindani is10kmfromMtwaraalonga &Away There Getting US$120/100, steUS$180; rhalfboardwith/withoutbalcony www.mikindani.com; Old BomaatMikindani Sleeping &Eating way TSh100). to/from Shangani dock inMtwara(one boat Mtwara on Mnazi Bay, boasts anexcellent boasts Mtwara onMnazi Bay, The Msimbati Peninsula, about42kmfrom Msimbati .eco2.com), which is based atthehotel..eco2.com), which isbased arranged ECO2(check through outwww barbecue.Saturday evening Divingcanbe withapopular bar (mealsfromTSh4000) large bedsandnets–agoodrestaurant- travellers’ withsimple rooms –allwith base, SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIASOUTHEASTERN ••Mikindani Ten SouthLodge Degrees Dhows and canoes go throughout theday gothroughout Dhows andcanoes

s ( % )

Thisbeautifully ( 233 3875,0742-767642; % 0748-855833; www A budget

247 TANZANIA TANZANIA son withfullboardTSh35,000) TSh7000/10,000) bathroom with shared bathroomTSh5000, s/dwithprivate dering around. tocarryyourpassport whenwan- good idea is neartheMozambicanborder, soit’sa ment atthesouthernedge of town.Newala ontheedgethe policestation) of theescarp- Valley. There’s fort(now anold German temperatures andviewsover theRuvuma ment ontheplateau, cool withpleasantly Dusty, bustling Newalaisthemajor settle- % Newala their carvings. Africafor East people, famedthroughout above ishometotheMakonde level, sea of 700mand900m which liesbetween The seldom-visited Makonde Plateau, much PLATEAU &AROUND MAKONDE the area. tide), andhasthebeststretch of in sand track(oralongthebeacha sandy atlow about 7kmbeyondMsimbativillage along ofto thetinysettlement offshore reefs. Mostvisitors headstraight beach andastringof mostlyunexplored 248 low tide. with localsorwalkingalongthebeach at are hitching, arrangingaliftonbicycle MsimbatiandRuvulatheoptions Between tohitch.6am. Onweekends it’seasyenough Departures fromMsimbatiare ataround 11am fromtheeastern sideof themarket. onehour),departingMtwaraby (TSh2000, direction MtwaraandMsimbati between in Mtwara. bati village, butifyou’re camping,stock up doorstep. Afew basicsare available inMsim- bandas wala andMasasi three (TSh3500, hours). hours) six toeight and Ne- wara (TSh5000, bathroom foraboutTSh3000. withno-frillsthe busstand, rooms sharing intheareahouses around themarket and road. from thecentre of townalongthe Masasi nets –andarestaurant. It’sabout600m Country LodgeBed&Breakfast Safari Ruvula Sea There’s atleastonepick-updailyineach Buses run daily between NewalaandMt- run dailybetween Buses There are lessexpensive guest- several 023 TANZANIA ••Accommodation DIRECTORY near the sea andthebeach atyour nearthesea hassimplerooms –mostwith

(camping TSh5000,bandasperper- inRuvulahassimple Ruvula

( % , which is 241 0355;s TSh3500) quote all-inclusive prices, which meansac- national parks and luxury camps in or near add significantly totheprice. Many lodges Inquireas stated. when booking,asthese include wildlife drives orexcursions except noted. lodges, Forsafari quoted pricesdon’t is includedin accommodation pricesunless fee/tea, bread, jamandsometimesanegg) In thischapter, breakfast continental (cof- ACCOMMODATION able totheregion, see p617 . Tanzania. Forgeneral informationapplic- coversThis section informationspecificto TANZANIA DIRECTORY (12 hours, 200km). go toTundurudaily,departingbefore dawn proximately 6amand2pm. hourlybetween leaveback totown.Buses for Mtwaraap- hotel toavoid oratthepetrolstation thewalk Mtwara, askthedriver todropyouatyour town ontheTundururoad.Coming from isatthefarwestern endofThe busstand THERE&AWAYGETTING 0095; rTSh9400) House north toNachingwea andLiwale. for onwardtravel westtowardsTunduruand transport hub granite hills.It’sanimportant Makonde Plateau againstabackdropof out alongthemainroadoff theedge of the Masasi, abustlingdistrictcentre, stretches % Masasi is asmalldamwhere youcanswim. minute walksouthof themonastery (uphill) health clinicfortheregion. About a45- asthemajor thatserves adjoining hospital monasteryfor itslarge andthe Benedictine about 40kmnortheastof Masasi, isnotable Ndanda, alongtheMtwara–Tundururoad, Ndanda restaurant. hasbasicrooms andatiny at thebusstand, near the petrol station, and near thepetrolstation, the postoffice, andwitharestaurant. Land Rovers Land buses and(inthedryseason) include guesthouses Better Nuru NdandaHotel 023

(r TSh6000) , diagonally across from the hospital , diagonallyacrossfromthehospital , attheeastern endof townnear , atthewestern endof town

(r withshared bathroom www.lonelyplanet.com Sayari Hotel Sayari Holiday Guest

( % 251 more formally, where is tosleep common term ifyou’re lookingfor some- drink, rather thanaccommodation. Themore permitted onZanzibar. isn’t $20 perperson Camping pernight). ing intheparksthemselves willcostatleast camp- around thenorthernparks(though and itcansave yousomemoney inand ning totravel areas, inoff-the-beaten-track It’s agoodideatocarrytent ifyou’re plan- Camping also entitlesyoutosomediscounts. 50% onroomprices.Aresidents’ permit youcanoftenseason get discountsof upto rates. DuringtheMarch Junelow toearly chargeseason’ ontopof regular high-season anadditional‘peak- days, manyhotels levy around theChristmasandNewYear holi- transfers. and sometimes parken life drives, shortguidedwalksorboatsafaris, commodation plusexcursions such aswild- www.lonelyplanet.com Swahili, a bucket ifyouask.Note thatinTanzanian running orhotwater, allwillarrange though son, andmanycheaper placesdon’t have Water canbeaproblem duringthedrysea- Guesthouses &BudgetHotels Hostels, with thefamily. take yourmeals reasonable, andyou’llusuallybeexpected to withlocalfamilies.Costsareto stay very zania studyingSwahilifrequently arrange Students spendingextended periodsinTan- Homestays northern-circuit parkshave hostels. haveseveral basicresthouses, andmany Most parksalsohave simplehutsor thing inwithyou,includingdrinking water. park campsites,tobring every- you’llneed ally have Formostnational themtoyourself. must bebooked inadvance,andyou’llusu- like ordinarycampsites, specialcampsites remain topristineaspossible. Un- asclose no facilitiesatall;theideaisthatarea cial’ campsites are more remote, andhave toilets andsometimesawater source. ‘Spe- camp sites have basicfacilities;generally pit All of theparkshave campsites. ‘Ordinary’ NATIONAL PARKS From late JunetoAugustandagain hotel (or nyumba yakulala wageni hoteli guesti ) refers tofoodand try fees or ‘guesthouse’ or, or‘guesthouse’ and airport and bandas, .

rud agn (p162). Pangani around Kisiwani islands; andthemainlandcoast bati andelsewhere, plusMafia andKilwa ( p236 ), withfinestretches of atMsim- sand Archipelago ( p128 ); southeastern Tanzania include theZanzibar islands. Highlights ing andrelaxing onthebeaches andnearby to makeit’s easy aholidayoutof explor- Tanzania hasa magnificentcoastline,and Beachcombing &IslandHopping ACTIVITIES upper endof thespectrumare all-inclusive. to US$500perperson Pricesatthe pernight. correspondingly prices–fromUS$70 high circuitsandonthecoast,at on thesafari luxury lodges Africa’s mostbeautiful East major towns,thecountryalsohassomeof midrange andtop-endaccommodationin dition toarapidlyimproving of selection rooms.Inad- or‘self-container’ contained’ bathroom) are widelyreferred toas‘self- In Tanzania, ensuite rooms(iewithprivate Camps Lodges&Luxury Hotels, Rubondo IslandNational Park ( p206 Lake ). of tional Park ( p217 shoreline of) andtheislandhabitats the Tanganyika aroundMahale Na- Mountains (p234), shoreline Nyasa alluring, including thelanguidLake spots include Lake Victoria, Lake Eyasiand Victoria, Lake spots include Lake In addition to thenational parks, topbirding Bird-Watching Inland beaches and islands are equally PRACTICALITIES TANZANIA ••Activities DIRECTORY

English andSwahili. andDeutscheWelletransmitin Service BBC’sWorld in EnglishandSwahili. aligned nationalstation,broadcasting TanzaniaRadio isthegovernment- Financial Times News include thedailies English-language newspapersavailable plugadaptors.or two-round-pin withBritish-stylethree-square-pin 50Hz) You can (220-250VAC, accesselectricity weights andmeasures. Tanzania usesthemetricsystem for Herald Tribune international newspaperthe andtheweeklies isalsoavailable. andthe Guardian Business Times, East African and International Daily . The

249 TANZANIA TANZANIA //tanzaniabirdatlas.com/) donald.com/birding/africatanzania.htm. the Tanzania Hotspotspage onwww.camac ( p118 ), which organises localcyclingtrips. own bike. Alternatively, Afri-Roots contact no rentals here, tobringyour soyou’ll need the bicycle-friendly PuguHills,butthere are forcyclistsareDar esSalaam,thebestbase Manyararides nearLake NationalPark. In Footprint Adventures ( p92 ) organises short For general informationsee p636 Cycling & Mountain Biking . Green that atthewestern parks. the chimp trackinghere can’tcompare with Rubondo IslandNationalPark ( p206 ), but to findthem.There are alsochimpanzees at to workabitharderandclimbmore steeply are you generally although need also high, andchancesparalleled setting, of sightings Mahaleings almostguaranteed. hasanun- chimps are more readily spotted, withsight- choice, andalsohastheadvantage that the range. Gombeisthemore easilyaccessible ourprimate cousinsatclose in observing are excellentdestinationsifyou’re interested Mahale NationalPark Mountains ( p217 ) Gombe Stream NationalPark ( p216 ) and Tracking Chimpanzee see for longer cruises; p153 . Archipelago thatcanbecharteredZanzibar yacht clubs,andthere are boatsonthe several sort ( p241 ) orKinasiLodge ( p241 and toMafia PoleRe- Island,contact ). National Park ( p188 safaris. ) hascanoe ( Saadani GameReserve p160 ), andArusha therefor boatsafaris; are alsopossibilities at ( GameReserve Selous p236 ) isthebestplace Boating (www.tanzaniabirding.com/bird_checklists.htm) websites includethe the eastern Usambara Usefulmountains. 250 waters of the There’s alsodiving inthelargely unexplored chipelago ( p138 ) andaroundMafia Island. The best Ar-diving isaroundtheZanzibar Diving &Snorkelling Atoll ( p151 ) is a snorkelling highlight. north of Dares Salaam ( p127 ). Mnemba Marine Park ( p247 the beaches) andoff Dar esSalaam,Tanga andMikindanihave For upscaletripsdowntheRufijiRiver TANZANIA ••Activities DIRECTORY Mnazi Bay , the Tanzania BirdAtlas Tanzania BirdChecklist –Ruvuma E stuary and

(http: for more information. p91 and theWildlife ( special section This isone of Tanzania’s p57 topattractions. See ) Watching Wildlife Safaris trian Makoa Safaris( p171 ), nearMoshi,and In northern Tanzania, include goodcontacts Horse Riding See it canbefatal. p647 formore. Sickness(AMS).InextremeMountain cases awareporters. of Be thedangers of Acute trekking requires localguidesand(usually) Kilimanjaro ( p175 ) andMtMeru ( p190 ). All you’re anexperiencedhiker. Usambaras are often shortif unsatisfyingly routes inplaceslike onstandard sections the daily aboutsuitable day, aslocalexpectations on howmuch territory willbecovered each rangements, besure youandtheguideagree on yourown.Whenformalising your ar- off constraining ifyou’re tojustsetting used apart fromaddingtothecost,canfeel quite or recommended togowithaguide,which, Inmostareasthings yourself. itisrequired operators), toorganise through you’llneed (whereHighlands mosthikingisorganised a networkof andintheCrater guesthouses) there’s aninformalguideorganisation and western Usambaras aroundLushoto(where Kitulo Plateau inthe inthesouthwest.Except the areas aroundMbeya,Tukuyuandthe Other possibilitiesincludeMtHanang, and and Machame, andtheCrater Highlands. slopes of MtKilimanjaroaroundMarangu nearMorogoro,thelower uguru Mountains NationalPark,Udzungwa Mountains theUl- bara andPare inthenortheast, Mountains Tanzania’s main hiking areas are theUsam- &Trekking Hiking and WagHillLodge ( (p207 ) Camp p203 Island ). Rubondo (p210), Lodge perch are –thebestcontacts LukubaIsland and KilwaLodge ( p242 ). ( Kutani includeRas Other contacts p127 ) zibar canarrange deep-sea fishing charters. Upscale hotels onMafia, Pemba andZan- Fishing Lake Natron. Lake manjaro, intheCrater andaround Highlands Arusha, which organises ridesinwestKili- The maintrekking destinationsare Mt Victoria–renownedOn Lake foritsNile

(www.safaririding.com) www.lonelyplanet.com , based outside , based Eques- the sultans. toEuropeinthedaysofwith aGerman princesswhoelopes raphy of aZanzibari Said-Ruete. Thevery readable autobiog- WWI. snapshot of whatisnowTanzania during titles onTanzania includethefollowing. for appetite the countryinmore depth.Someadditional your whet to Africa. Lonely Planet’s East titles for p17 See BOOKS www.lonelyplanet.com for children’s discounts ifbooking a safari when booking. Always make sure you ask parks, are restricted forchildren, soinquire life lodges, inthenational especiallythose rooms usually costaboutUS$10. Somewild- old; extrachildren’s beds added todouble under 12andfree undertwoyears forthose commodation isusually discounted forthose Mahale NationalParks. Mountains Hotel ac- of age aren’t permitted inGombeStream or 16 years of age. Children years under seven camping fees are under discounted forthose dren underfive years of age, andentry are freezanian parksandreserves forchil- See CHILDREN p621 forgeneral information. AllTan- mosque services. areasin coastal –onFridayafternoons for noonand2pm,–especially between oftenoffices foronetotwohours close theregion,urday. Throughout shopsand Friday,anduntilnoononSat- day through forex bureaus remain openuntil5pmMon- In addition toregular bankinghours, many BUSINESS HOURS Game Reserve. withtheauthorintoheartofsafari Selous man’s life andphilosophy. Smith. Agoodbackgroundonthestates- trait of JuliusNyerere Africa’s National Park. life withthechimpanzees of GombeStream vivid portrayalof theauthor’sresearch and and early 20thcenturies. and early datingfrom thelateSwahili folktales 19th Walter Bobbett.Atranslated collectionof Sand RiversSand Memoirs of anArabian Princess An Ice-Cream War Through aWindow Zanzibar Tales We Must RunWhile TheyWalk–APor- byPeter Matthiessen. Goon byGeorge & Bateman byWilliamBoyd.A byJane Goodall.A Tanzania byWilliamE byEmily covers [email protected]) On the outskirts ofMusoma. [email protected]) Ontheoutskirts various locationsinDaresSalaam. various p134; .com/hassan/takiluki.html. Vuga Rd,ZanzibarTown)Alsoseewww.glcom airport, yourhotel orwherever. you whether remember themfromthe who comesuptoyouonthestreet asking you don’tknow,andbescepticalof anyone don’t acceptdrinksorfoodfrom someone Whenusing publictransport, atnight. taxi beach, andincitiestouristareas take a isolated areas, especiallyisolated stretches of totake theusualprecautions.do need Avoid somewherebeen like you Nairobi. Thatsaid, country, andcanbearelief ifyou’ve recently Tanzania isingeneral asafe, hassle-freeDANGERS &ANNOYANCES over US$10,000mustbedeclared. ofimportation foreign currency; amounts without declaration.There’s nolimit on shell isillegal.YoucanexportuptoTSh2000 coral,ivoryandturtle seashells, Exporting CUSTOMS ofDaresSalaam University outside Arusha,nearUsaRiver. ( Cooperation forDevelopment MS TrainingCentre LanguageSchool Makoko KIU Ltd Languages &Foreign ofSwahili Institute arrange includethefollowing: homestays) learn Swahili.Schools (manyof which can Tanzania Africato isthebestplaceinEast Language COURSES Mosquito netsare from home. bestbrought you’ll findtheoccasionaloneinlarger towns. have pools.Playgroundsare ararity,though are often overlooked. Mostupscalehotels they atouroperator,asotherwise through leave your bag withafriend or hotel rather with yourluggage. While looking foraroom, and don’t walkaroundmore than necessary togetinto ashop ifyouneed yourbearings, sion that you’re anewlyarrived tourist.Duck theimpres- youcanto minimise everything and budgetstations touristhotels. Trytodo extremely aggressive, especially aroundbus –toutsandflycatchers canbe and Zanzibar .udsm.ac.tz/kiswahilicourses.html) InDaresSalaam. .udsm.ac.tz/kiswahilicourses.html) % In touristareas –especially Arusha,Moshi 027-255 3837/8;www.mstcdc.or.tz) About15km % ( % 024-223 0724, 223 3337; [email protected]; 024-223 0724,2233337;[email protected]; TANZANIA ••Books DIRECTORY 022-285 1509; www.swahilicourses.com) At 022-285 1509;www.swahilicourses.com) ( ( % % 028-264 2518;swahili 022-241 0757;www (Map (Map

251 TANZANIA TANZANIA .tanzaniaembassy-us.org; 2139RSt,NW,Washington DC) office for Perth, SA,NTandQLD. office forPerth, andTasmania;Sydney officeisforNSW,VIC,ACT thePerth Terrace,QV1 Building,250StGeorge’s WA6000)The Perth fl, betweenTarifa Walk,Nairobi) Rd&Aga Khan Plaza,9th Reinsurance [email protected]; York, NY); York, NY); Perth consul.com; Level 3,185LiverpoolSt,Sydney,NSW2000); Viale Cortina d’Ampezzo185,Rome) Viale Cortina Kamiyoga 4, Chome Setagaya-Ku, Tokyo158) 4,Chome Setagaya-Ku, Kamiyoga .tanzania-online.gov.uk; 43 Hertford St,LondonW1Y8DB) .tanzania-online.gov.uk; 43 Hertford Rwanda Netherlands Mozambique House, Nyerere Ave); Kenya Japan Italy Germany France Canada Australia Tanzanian Embassies&Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES p622. and p120 see embassy ifyouplanontravelling there. Also and politicalunrest. anupdate fromyour Get der, there are sporadicoutbursts of banditry In western Tanzania, alongtheBurundibor- you’ve checked thoroughly outthecompany. ortrekmoney forasafari inadvanceuntil hotel offering payany deals, andnever safari on thestreet, orinyour atthebusstation very waryof anyonewhoapproaches you Be toyourhotel. fromthebusstation take ataxi luggage), andwhenarrivinginanewcity, bus tickets adayinadvance(withoutyour than walkingaroundtownwithit.Buyyour 252 Tanzania also has diplomatic representation Zambia USA Kingdom United Uganda South Africa Maputo) 852 Ave deMachava, Mártires KIN8J4) Ontario Rd,Ottawa, .net; 50Range .co.za; POBox56572, Arcadia0007,Pretoria) .co.za; Avenue Paul VI,Kigali) zamnet.zm; UjamaaHouse, 5200United Nations Ave,zamnet.zm; Lusaka) .de; Eschenallee11,14050Berlin-Charlottenburg) infonie.fr; 13Ave Poincare, 75116Paris) Raymond imul.com; 6 Rd,Kampala) imul.com; 6Kagera 2914 LE Nieuwerkerk aandenIjssel) 2914 LENieuwerkerk TANZANIA ••Embassies&Consulates DIRECTORY New York (

Rome %

Tokyo

Mombasa Paris

Ottawa Lusaka Kampala Kigali Kigali 08-9322 6222;[email protected]; Level 25, Washington, DC

( Sydney Berlin ( % ( % %

( ( Pretoria

% ( ([email protected]; 15 Maputo ( % ( 06-334 85801;www.tanzania-gov.it; % % ([email protected]; Palli([email protected]; ( 01 53706370,47550546;tanzanie@ % ( 03-425 4531;[email protected]; 21-9, % %

212-972 9160;205East 42ndSt,New London 0180-32 0939;Parallelweg Zuid215, Nairobi 01-253320, 01-227698; tzreplsk@ 0613-232 1500;tzottawa@synapse ( 030-303 0800;www.tanzania-gov ( 41-256292, 41-256272; tzrepkla@ 02-9261 0911;www.tanzania % % ( % ( 012-342 4393;tanzania@cis ( % 01-490110; UjamaaHouse, % 202-939 6125; www 020-7499 8951;www 02-331056, 02-331104; -embassy-daressalam.de; cnr Mirambo St & Garden Ave) St&Garden cnrMirambo -embassy-daressalam.de; St) 38Mirambo .ca/tanzania/menu-en.asp; required), andare issuedwithin24hours. visascost TSh50,000(nophotos single-entry One-month &OldBagamoyoRds; Kawawa the InternationalSchool. Rd,near 1131Msasani Rd)JustoffHaileSelassie raha.com; but withlotsofquestions. ( p214 ) issuesvisaswithin 24hours,andwithoutaletter, embassy explainingyourpurpose.Theconsulate inKigoma You’ll needaletterfromanemployer,touroperator or require twophotos,andare availablewithinthree days. visascostUS$50, single-entry One-month 3pm Mon-Fri) Mozambique Malawi Kenya Italy Ireland India Germany France DR Congo Canada Burundi % representations inDaresSalaam(area code should bemadeinthemorning.Diplomatic Tanzania’s neighbours; applicationsfor all midday break. informationisgiven Visa for 3pm,oftenaround 8amtoatleast witha asnoted, mostarebassy. Except openfrom em- theCanadian Australians cancontact Commissions inTanzania &High Embassies, Consulates no Tanzanian commissioninMalawi. high andZimbabwe(Harare).(Geneva) There’s Switzerland Sweden(Stockholm), (Lagos), (Addis Ababa), India(NewDelhi),Nigeria Ethiopia EgyptCongo (Kinshasa), (Cairo), DR China(Beijing), (Brussels), in Belgium US$70 plus two photosandare issuedwithin 24hours. visascost single-entry visas. Forthosethat do,one-month nationalities,including theUSAandUK,don’trequire Many House, cnrOhioSt&Sokoine Dr; has a consulate in Kigoma ( has aconsulateinKigoma p214 ). two photosandare issuedwithin24hours. Burundialso visascostUS$45plus single-entry One-month Mon-Fri) Lugalo Rd,Upanga) Kinondoni Rd,Masaki) Kinondoni Belgium [email protected]; 5OceanRd,Upanga) US$40/35 for same-day/two-day service, plus twophotos. service, US$40/35 forsame-day/two-day h .org; AliHassanMwinyiRd) 022) includethefollowing: 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) One-month single-entry visas cost single-entry One-month 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) (Map (Map p116 ; (Map (Map p116 ; (Map (Map p116 ; (Map (Map p116 ; Mp p118 ; (Map (Map (Map p118 ; (Map (Map p116 ; (Map (Map p116 ; Lugalo St,Upanga; (Map (Map p116 ; (Map (Map p118 ; (Map (Map p116 Rd,Upanga; ; Maliki (Map (Map p118 ; % % % % % % % 211 5935;www.italdipldar.org; 316 % 266 9040/2;www.hcindiatz.org;82 % 270 1747; 14 Ursino, cnr Rashidi 270 1747;14Ursino,cnr Rashidi 266 6021;www.ambafrance-tz 260 2355/6,2666211;iremb@ 0748-481740; 1stfl,Zambia 211 2831;www.dfait-maeci.gc 211 4025,2503; 211 7409-15;www.german % h www.lonelyplanet.com 211 6502; 25 Garden Ave;211 6502;25 Garden h 8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) 8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) h h 8am-5pm 8.30am- .gov/tanzania; cnr Old Bagamoyo & Rashidi Kawawa Rds) Kawawa .gov/tanzania; cnrOldBagamoyo&Rashidi Mirambo St & Garden Ave) St&Garden Mirambo FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS &EVENTS Zambia USA UK Uganda Rd, Upanga; Rwanda Ave) St&Garden cnrMirambo -embassy.go.tz; Netherlands www.lonelyplanet.com Boxing Day Boxing Day Christmas Independence Day Day Nyerere Nane Saba Labour Day Union Day March/April Easter Day Zanzibar Revolution Day Year’s New HOLIDAYS regional ensembles;heldinlateSeptember. acrobatics, poetryreading andmore, localand featuring /index_festival.html) Aweekoftraditionalmusic,dance, Festival Bagamoyo Arts Kogwa Mwaka ZIFF early July. from Tanzania heldin andotherIndianOceancountries; ofdance,music,filmandliterature extravaganza two-week Festival oftheDhowCountries in February orMarch. summitisn’tenough.Held in caseclimbingtoKilimanjaro’s .com) SomethingtodointhefoothillsaroundMoshi,just Marathon Kilimanjaro heldinFebruary onZanzibar.things Swahili; musicanddancefestival centred aroundall A three-day Busara za Sauti within three days. entry visascostUS$45plustwophotos,andare ready Makunduchi, inZanzibar’ssoutheasterncorner.Makunduchi, mark Nairuzim(theShiraziNewYear); festivities are bestin Ohio St&SokoineDr; and require twophotos. They’re processedthesameday. cost TSh25,000toTSh43,000dependingonnationality, visas single-entry Three-month pick-ups 2-3pm,Mon-Fri) photos andare issuedthesameday. visascostUS$30plustwo single-entry School. Three-month h the Dhow Countries; heldinearlyJuly. the DhowCountries; (Map (Map p118 ; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Near Oyster Bay Primary NearOysterBayPrimary 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Thisfilmfestival isthecentrepiece oftheFestival of (Map (Map p116 ; (Good Friday, HolySaturdayandEasterMonday) (Good Friday, (Map (Map p118 ; (Map (Map p116 ; Mp p116; (Map 26April h (Peasants’ Day)7July 1May 26December (Farmers’ Day) 8August (Map (Map p118 ; 14October % 25December 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) One-month single- One-month 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) % Afour-dayfestival heldinlateJulyto ( 1January % 211 0101;[email protected]; cnr % 266 8001;http://usembassy.state % h 9December % 024-223 2423;[email protected]) 212 5529;ZambiaHouse,cnr 266 7009;25MsasaniRd; visa applications9-11am, (www.kilimanjaromarathon 211 5889;32AliHassanMwinyi % (www.college-of-arts.org 12January 211 0000;www.netherlands (www.ziff.or.tz) A TANZANIA ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY /Country_Specific/Tanzania.html) Goodlinks. Zanzibar Commission for Tourism’s officialsite. Zanzibar CommissionforTourism’s clippings. government site–dry,butwithvisainfo. .com) TTB’s officialsite. .com) TTB’s that’s usually included inquoted prices. p17. see topay.Forsome tipsoncutting costs, need real – comforts abound, butyou’ll deals things. Whatever yourbudget, there are few torough take somework,andyou’llneed budget is quiteshoestring possible, itwill While travelling a onamodestoreven cially ifyou’re doing anorganised safari. money fromATMs. cardforwithdrawing stand-by andaVisa plus sometravellers cheques asemergency a mixture of large andsmalldenominations, p17. p103 . Formore information oncosts,see Forexchange andTSh1. TSh5 rates, see TSh10, of TSh20, TSh50, TSh100, TSh200, andcoins andTSh500, TSh1000 TSh5000, Thereshilling (TSh). are bills of TSh10,000, The currency inTanzania istheTanzanian MONEY Town. Dar esSalaam,ArushaandZanzibar Tanzania parks.They’re widely available in cover Arushaandmanynorthern Zanzibar, bazzi andmarketed underthenameMaCo, hand-drawn byamannamedGiovanni Tom- Area. and theNgorongoroConservation Manyaralishes mapsforLake NationalPark available inTanzania. Harms-ic alsopub- by Nelles(1:1,500,000)andHarms-ic, both published Good countrymapsincludethose MAPS Zanzibar Tourism Tanzania Board Tourist Tanzania Page Tanzania News ofTanzaniaGovernment to get youstarted: found ontheWeb.Followingare afew sites There’s lotsof informationonTanzania to be RESOURCES INTERNET public holidays;see p624 . Major Islamicholidaysare alsocelebrated as Tanzania (VAT) has a20%value-added tax Travel inTanzania isexpensive, espe- The bestcurrency tobringisUSdollars in ofAn excellentseries colourfulmaps, (www.tanzanianews.com) News (www.sas.upenn.edu/African_Studies (www.zanzibartourism.net) The (www.zanzibartourism.net) (www.tanzaniatouristboard (www.tanzania.go.tz) The

253 TANZANIA TANZANIA always accepted atthegoingrate. ferries indollars, shillingsare though almost tours,ised upscalehotels andtheZanzibar pay foraccommodation,parkfees, organ- ports inDaresSalaamandKilimanjaro. places toreconvert currency are attheair- theyarethough checked. seldom Theeasiest save atleastsomeof yourexchange receipts, to hardcurrency attheendof yourtrip, tourist areas andmajor towns. and othermajor currencies are accepted in accepted anywhere. Euros,Britishpounds denominations. Old-styleUSbillsare not get better rates of exchange thansmaller country. Note thatUS$50andUS$100bills which the hasbranches throughout NBC, bankforchangingmost useful moneyis many smallertownsdon’thave them.The eaucratic andoffer rates, higher although Forex bureaus are usuallyquicker, lessbur- missions vary,soitpaystoshoparound. bureaus inalllarger towns;rates andcom- hassle atbanksandforeign exchange (forex) canbechangedCash withaminimumof Cash practice they’re often outof service. All are open24hours in intheory,though day. Afew ATMs alsoacceptMasterCard. cardtoamaximumofVisa per TSh400,000 that allowyoutowithdrawshillingswitha CRDB (inmajor towns)alsohave ATMs (DarandArusha) Mwanza), Barclays in DaresSalaam,Arusha,Moshiand Charteredwide). Standard (withbranches branches (foundinmajor townscountry- ATMs atmostof thatacceptVisa their has ofNational Bank Commerce(NBC) ATMs 254 On treks inTanzania, and safaris it’scom- For general guidelines ontipping, see p626 . Tipping Town. es Salaam, ArushaandZanzibar orMasterCardpoor rates againstVisa inDar Kenya, orintheWest. isn’tascommonin their use though cards –mostwith a5%to10%commission– few midrange acceptcredit establishments Some top-end hotels, touroperators anda Cards Credit In theory,it’srequired forforeigners to In ordertoreconvert Tanzanian shillings You canget cash advancesindollars at TANZANIA ••Photography&Video DIRECTORY permitted. Calls to mobile phones costpermitted. Calls not Internet it’s officially dialling, though ally you’ll findplacesoffering much cheaper private communications shops. Occasion- inall majoroffices towns, aswell from per minute) callsfrom Tanzania Telecom per minute) andinternational (fromUS$2 You canmake domestic(fromabout US$0.10 TELEPHONE letter. Mail one month. isheldforatleast towns, withacharge of perreceived TSh200 is unreliable, anyvaluables. sodon’tsend sonably reliable forletters. Package delivery andisrea-rope costsfromTSh600/800/500 Airmail postage totheUSA/Australia/Eu- POST if indoubt,don’ttake yourcameraout. (see or military p627 ) are so taken seriously, ing anythingconnected withthegovernment a handfulof Internet cafésinmajor towns. aboveSpeeds 200ASAare tofind. difficult andothertouristareas.exposures), Zanzibar for36 able inDaresSalaam(aboutTSh9000 Slide film(KodakandFuji,100ASA)isavail- foraroll ofTSh3500 100ASA/36exposures). in major towns andtouristareas (fromabout Print film,includingKodakandFuji,issold PHOTOGRAPHY &VIDEO cheques asdirect payment. tion. Mosthotels refuse toaccepttravellers tomore thanUS$40pertransac- NBC) from 0.5%of amount(at the transaction bureaus) alsocharge commissions ranging ing thecheques. Mostbanks(butnotforex receiptyour originalpurchase before chang- you’ll almostalwaysberequired toshow cratic thanbanks.Wherever youchange, are usually much quicker andlessbureau- cash. As withchanging cash,forex bureaus lowerrates thanfor the country–atslightly other major centres –butnotelsewhere in Mwanzaand es Salaam,Arusha,Zanzibar, Travellers cheques canbechanged inDar Cheques Travellers faris) and p176 and p190 For guidelinesonamountssee (fortreks). p84 (forsa- good. hasbeen iftheservice and otherstaff mon practicetotipdrivers, guides, porters There’s poste restante service inallmajorThere’s poste restante service Region-wide restrictions on photograph- CD-burning of images digital ispossibleat www.lonelyplanet.com an international call,dial Group representative isthe USA, theTTB .org; 347Fifth Ave, Suite610,NewYork,NY10016) shops throughout thecountry. shops throughout packages, andtop-up cards are at onsale anareainitial 0anddon’tuse code. the six-digitnumber. From within,keep the phone codewithouttheinitial0,andthen zania, dialthecountrycode,thenmobile mobile telephone numberfromoutsideTan- (0)747.Toreach a or(onZanzibar) (Celtel), and (0)745(Vodacom),(0)748(0)787 digits, preceded by(0)741(Mobitel), (0)744 larger towns.Mobilephonenumbers are six won’t get asignalonceyou’re awayfrom the In thesouth,westandcentre, youoften arc encompassingthenorthandnortheast. ers major townsinthecountry,plusawide The rapidlyexpandingmobilenetworkcov- Mobile Phones theoperator( call through bers stillremaining, toplaceyour you’llneed For theoccasionalone-ortwo-digitnum- units), you’llonlyget afew minutes totalk. with themostexpensive 150 card(TSh7500, the phones),butforinternational calls,even hours atTanzania Telecom oratshopsnear in major towns(buycardsduringbusiness perminute.TSh500 There are cardphones www.lonelyplanet.com cination unless you’re arriving from an to carry acertificate of yellow-fever vac- Tanzania nolonger requires officially you VACCINATION CERTIFICATES Trade Centre isrepresentedTourist Board bythe and Arusha( p181 ). Inthe UK, theTanzania e h T TOURIST INFORMATION youdiallongdistance. whenever of at thestart townentries)mustbeused digit numbers around.Area codes(given therealthough are stillafew four- andfive- out theinitial‘0’)andtelephone number. by thecountrycode,localarea code(with- Tanzania’s countrycodeis Codes Phone .co.uk; 80 Borough High St,London, SE11LL) .co.uk; 80Borough High -web.com) All the companies sell prepaidAll thecompaniessell starter Most telephone numbers are digits, seven Tanzania Board Tourist

( % has offices inDaresSalaam( hasoffices p117 ) 212-447 0027;tanzania@bradfordmarketing

( % 0207-407 0566;director@tanzatrade %

% % (TTB; www.tanzania (TTB; 900). 000, followed 255. Tomake . Inthe Tanzania Bradford . TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting it often isn’tchecked. fever infected area (includingKenya), though cination onlyifyou’re comingfromayellow- proofcash. You’llneed of yellow-fever vac- p629 ), andmustbepaidforinUSdollars are available atallmajor pointsof entry(see at theairportsoroverland borders. Visas Tanzania toenter, isstraightforward whether Tanzania Entering from outsidetheregion, see p631 . Africa For informationongetting toEast THERE&AWAY GETTING TANZANIA IN TRANSPORT countries, see p252 . toneighbouring ply foranewvisa. Forvisas toleaveusually need thecountryandreap- all major towns.After three months, you’ll limit,therevisa are immigrationofficesin sions (free) withintheusualthree-month Forexten-itinerary willusuallysuffice. before aflight though they’llissueavisa, you toshowproof of anonwardticket single-entry only).Someembassiesrequire nationalities US$50,USdollars cash only, airports andatmostbordercrossings(all issued atDaresSalaamandKilimanjaro they’reple entry),though currently readily ifyou want multi- vance (andnecessary nationality. It’sbesttoget inad- thevisa US$20andUS$50,dependingon between validforuptothreeentry visa months costs avisa. Asingle- needs Almost everyone VISAS good ideatocarry.Formore, see p646 . countries, includingRwanda,andthusisa also arequirement insomeneighbouring arrivalsaren’tthough alwayschecked). It’s infected area (which includesKenya, al- national Airport Tanzania’s major air hubis Air entering Tanzania. are norestrictions onanynationalitiesfor entry permitrequirements (see p629 ), there As long asyouhave and compliedwithvisa Passport

(code DAR; % 022-284 2461,284 4371, Dar es SalaamInter-

255 TANZANIA TANZANIA .egyptair.com.eg) Hub:CairoInternational Airport. 4239; www.airtanzania.com) es Salaam) zibar 3547, inArusha Airport, London. Airport, Hub:Heathrow 022-284 4082;www.britishairways.com) soon). (tostart Bujumbura. BujumburatoKigoma (code MYW) % 2001) ext 256 Emirates Airlines Emirates Egyptair Airways British Air Kenya Air India to/from Theretic flights. are alsointernational flights west of Arusha,which handlessomedomes- Ar Burundi Air as noted. DaresSalaam,except All airlinesservice Africahighighted). and elsewhere inEast Tanzania between flights ing (withuseful flying to/fromTanzania includethefollow- Air Burundi. Kigoma andBujumburainpartnership with They are between aflight alsoabouttostart plusnumerousdomesticroutes. Zanzibar, andDaresSalaamvia Mombasa between and es Salaam,KilimanjaroandZanzibar, fromNairobi toDar Airways, hasflights to Kilimanjaro. % .com) Hub:Mumbai. Mwanza Airport the smaller with circuit.Itshouldn’t beconfused safari concentrating onArushaandthenorthern- andisthebestoptionifyou’llbeflights dles anincreasing numberof international ArushaandMoshi,han- midway between www.emirates.com) Hub DubaiInternational Airport. Air Precision accepted attheirDaresSalaamoffice only. Entebbe andJohannesburg. Credit cardsare and DaresSalaamtoMoroni(Comores), clude NairobitoDaresSalaamandZanzibar, reliable. Regionalandinternational routes in- and African Airwaysandisgenerally efficient Airport. Itoperates inpartnership withSouth with itshubatDaresSalaamInternational Ar Tanzania Air Other regional andinternational carriers The othermajor commercialcarrieris 027-255 4252,2554707;www.kilimanjaroairport.co.tz) 020-601727; www.airkenya.com) Hub:Nairobi.Nairobi 020-601727; www.airkenya.com) TRANSPORT INTANZANIA TRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting % . 024-223 4520; www.precisionairtz.com; hubDar 024-223 4520;www.precisionairtz.com; (airlinecode MS; Kilimanjaro International Airport Airport International Kilimanjaro (airline codeAI; , which, inpartnership withKenya Zanzibar International Airport Zanzibar International handlesomeregional flights. (airline codeREG; (airline code8Y;[email protected];) Hub:

(airline codePW; Arusha Airport Arusha Airport %

(airlinecodeBA;

(airline codeTC; (airline codeEK; (code MWZ) 027-250 2818,6903,inZan- % % is thenationalairline, % 022-215 2642;www.airindia % 022-211 0333; www and (code ARK) 027-250 2541,inNairobi % % 022-212 1718,022-284 % 022-211 3820, 022-211 8411,284 Mtwara Airport 022-211 6100; , about8km

(code ZNZ) (code JRO; . , serves ZanzibarInternationalAirport. serves Also .oman-air.com) InternationalAirport. Hub:Seeb (KIA). InternationalAirport Kilimanjaro www.flyethiopian.com) Hub:AddisAbaba. Alsofliesto Airport. 6036; www.yemenairways.net) Hub:Sana’aInternational Zurich. 211 8870;www.swiss.com) Hub:KlotenAirport, Salaam andZanzibar. Nairobi.NairobiandMombasatoDares tional Airport, Interna- Hub:JomoKenyatta www.kenya-airways.com) Airport. 7044; www.flysaa.com) Hub:JohannesburgInternational InternationalAirport. Kilimanjaro Amsterdam. Alsoserves % neighbours byminibusor(forKenya) shared possible totravel to/fromallof Tanzania’s ticket pricesfortrans-border routes. It’salso fees aretinue on.Visa notincludedinbus- formalities, thenreboard yourbusandcon- oneach sidetotakedisembark care of visa to ally nohassles.Attheborder,you’ll need border forpassportchecks, there are usu- Apart fromsometimeslengthywaits atthe and Kenya, Malawi, Uganda andZambia. crosstheborders TanzaniaBuses between BUS Land combining gorillasandchimpanzees. if you’renia) andKigali(Rwanda)–useful scheduled charters Kigoma (Tanza- between Safaris( Chimpanzee p214 ) runregularly Yemenia Yemen Airways Airlines Swiss International Airways South African Rwandair Express Oman Air Maputo. International Airport, % deMoçambique Linhas Aéreas KLM Airways Kenya Ethiopian Airlines Kigali to Kilimanjaro InternationalAirport. toKilimanjaro Kigali US dollars orTanzanian shillings). (payable ineither separately attheairport mainland, butonZanzibaris usuallylevied fromthe pricefor departures the ticket national flightsis US$30. It’sincludedin The taxforregional departure andinter- DEPARTURE TAX 027-250 8062/3; www.klm.com) Hub: Schiphol Airport, 027-250 8062/3;www.klm.com)Hub:SchipholAirport, 022-213 4600;www.lam.co.mz) Hub:Mavalane (airlinecodeKL; (airline codeOMA; (airline codeKQ; (airline code ET; (airlinecodeET; (www.rwandair.com) Hub:Kigali. % (airlinecodeSA; 022-213 9790/1, (airlinecodeIY; % www.lonelyplanet.com (airlinecodeLX; 024-223 8308;www % (airlinecodeTM; % 022-211 9376/7; 022-211 7063;

in Arusha % % 022-211 022-212 % 022- necessary paperworkwiththeminadvance. necessary arrange the should youfindonethatdoes, vehicles tocrossinternational borders; shops; headtothenearest large town. posts don’thave orrepair petrolstations carnet depassage endouane; a You’llalsoneed (TSh5000). time fuellevy foroneyear)andaone- surance (TSh50,000 for onemonth),third-partyin- (TSh20,000 temporary importpermitattheborder ( and yourlicense p263 ), pluspayfora thevehicle’syou’ll need registration papers If you’re arrivingviacarormotorcycle, CAR &MOTORCYCLE and change vehicles ontheotherside. towalkacross theborder times you’llneed Mostmainroutes godirect,taxis. butsome- www.lonelyplanet.com east of Moshi; at Illas ings atHorohoro, northof Tanga; atTaveta, (open 24 hours). There are alsobordercross- the heavily travelled Namanga border post road connecting ArushaandNairobivia The mainroute to/from Kenya isthe sealed Border Crossings TO/FROM KENYA other lesssafe pointsneartheborder. or Kahama, or rather thaninLusahunga in Tanzania, itwillbein either Biharamulo your travels toovernight sothatifyouneed via Ngaraisinfairlygoodcondition. Time The roadfromNzegatotheBurundi border via Kahama towardsNzegaorShinyanga. Victoria andsoutheast Biharamulo andLake from where there are vehicles northtowards connected withrefugee repatriation. andothers marily forUnited Nationsstaff (near Makamba), buttheyare currently pri- (east of Ruyigi) andfurthersouthatMugina There are alsobordercrossingsatGisuru totravelsometimes necessary inaconvoy. lar issubjecttooccasionalbanditry, andit’s inparticu- KigomaandLusahunga between update fromyourembassyfirst. Theroad situationebbsandflows,soget an security theborderisofficially open,the Although NgaraandMuyinga(Burundi).between The mainbordercrossing isatKoberoBridge TO/FROM BURUNDI at Bologonya inthenorthern Serengeti; and For road rules, see rules,see For road Most hire companiesdon’tpermittheir The trip is done in stages via Lusahunga, The tripisdoneinstages viaLusahunga, sit, northeast of Moshi; 68. ot border Most p638 . see see p638 . TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting TSh10,000, fourtofiveTSh10,000, hours). to depart dailyinthe morning(TSh5000 Tanga between hours). Buses andMombasa mornings ineach direction 10 (TSh19,000, departingDar esSalaamand Mombasa, Scandinavian daily between Express goes Mombasa theborderandSeronera. between park fees are payableattheLoboranger post, ronera. Entering Tanzania fromMasai Mara, take care of immigrationformalities inSe- resident andare exitingTanzania, youshould dents andcitizenscancrosshere. Ifyou’re a Africanresi- andonlyEast Game Reserve, northern Serengeti andKenya’s Masai Mara There’s the nopublictransportbetween Masai Mara continuingontoArushaandDar.buses MwanzaandNairobi),withsome between 12to14hours toTSh23,000, (TSh20,000 MwanzaandNairobidaily runsbetween Express andAkambaalsopassKisiiontheir then ontoKisumuorNairobi.Scandinavian change toKenyan transportforKisii,and borderpost,whereSirari/Isebania youcan Musoma andthe godailybetween Minibuses Kisii Tanzania–Kenya borderposts. crossing, there ispublictransportacrossall exception of theSerengeti–Masai Mara northeastofat Isebania, Musoma. Withthe Salaam andNairobi via Arusha, departing Dares Scandinavian between Express goes Nairobi below thenorm. for moneyexchangeattheborderare far for crossing,andtherates beingoffered fees, paymentsorexchangerequirements fromyourvisa,there areApart noborder essary paymentstoenter Tanzania/Kenya. to ‘anotherbuilding’arrangethenec- change money,topayafee, ortocomeover pany –whotell youthatit’snecessaryto often claimingtheyworkforthebuscom- Nairobi andArusha),watchoutfortouts– andTanzaniaKenya (en route between At theNamangaborderpostbetween BORDER HASSLES

257 TANZANIA TANZANIA University Way,withadeskattheNewStanleyHotel) 4thfl,WindsorHouse, 254-20-217178; [email protected]; Pallsons, BondeniSt,Arusha); Nairobi ( .tz; ImpalaHotel,cnrMoshi&OldRds,Arusha); Room 1, 3rd fl, Pan African Insurance House, Kenyatta Ave)Room 1,3rdfl,Pan InsuranceHouse, Kenyatta African shared toNairobi (about US$5). Com- taxis the frequent across the border,andthen catch oneof you’ll have towalkafew hundred metres journey at hair-raising AtNamanga, speeds. Most are thatdothe sedans nine-seater the day,beginningabout6am. throughout andthe Namangaborder(TSh2500) station tion; inNairobimost are fromAccraRd. Departures inArushaare from thebussta- sometimes alsoin theafternoon about 2pm. 6.30amand 8am,and departing between hours), sixtoseven robi daily(TSh9000, line todrumupbusinessforwaiting taxis. (Nairobi) andinsistthatit’stheend of the Hotel thebusat New Stanley may board asagreed.off Alsowatch outfortoutswho when booking,andinsistonbeing dropped arrivals area. Confirmthedrop-off point tourist informationdeskintheinternational the theshuttles through contact Otherwise ifyou’veyour flight booked inadvance. Nairobi, shuttlerepresentatives willmeet International Airport.Whenflying into atta centrally located hotels andatJomoKeny- InNairobi,drop-offsat theiroffices. are at nies dropyouatMtMeru Hotel, aswell dents’ price(US$10).InArusha,allcompa- prodding, youcansometimesget theresi- All charge US$25oneway,andwithalittle Riverside Impala Davanu nies includethefollowing: in each direction (five hours). Main compa- which departat8amand2pm shuttle buses, the mostpopularoptionisoneof thedaily costs, 12to14hours). plus Kenyan toTSh28,000 (TSh23,000 visa MwanzaandNairobi between daily buses press andAkambabuslinealsohave 13 hours).(TSh38,000, Scandinavian Ex- daily ineach direction around6.30am 258 a branch at Mt Meru Hotel); a branchatMtMeru SokoineRd,Arusha,with [email protected]; Shared theArusha bus gobetween taxis alsolinkArushaandNai- Regular buses ArushaorMoshiandNairobi, Between TRANSPORT INTANZANIA TRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting %

Arusha Arusha

Arusha 254-20-2717373; Silver Springs Hotel) 254-20-2717373; SilverSprings ( ( % % matatus ( % 027-250 7197;[email protected] 0744-400318, 0744-846160;Hotel 027-250 2639,3916; Nairobi (Kenyan minivans) or Nairobi ( ( % % 254-20-229618; 254-20-222002, Malawi time) Malawi office inSongea. there’sbique); otherwise, animmigration Songeabetween andNova Madeira (Mozam- possible to get inatthecrossing stamped da Praia (Mozambique). It’s alsoreportedly (Tanzania), andatPalma andMoçimboa boat, there are borderofficials atMsimbati do Rovuma (Mozambique). Ifyoutravel by Newala andMoçimboacrossing between sible toget onthe yourpassport stamped sometimes-operational ferry. It’salsopos- ambo (southof Mtwara),where there is a (the border).Themaincrossing is atKil- There are nobridges over theRuvumaRiver TO/FROM MOZAMBIQUE bridge The onlybordercrossingisat TO/FROM MALAWI middle of thenight. mostreachVoi, although inthe Mombasa via MoshiandMombasa rect between buses on theborder. There are alsooccasional di- or thetripcanbedoneinstages viaTaveta Moshi andVoi, godailybetween Minibuses Voi River Rdjunction. depotsaretaxi the onRonaldNgalaSt,near ing fromNairobi,the laam depart Mbeya between 6amand7am. laam departMbeyabetween overnighting toDaresSa- inMbeya,asbuses there towardsDaresSalaam.This means and thenget anexpress busonwardsfrom to take aminibus fromthebordertoMbeya, Karonga, soit’seasytofindalift. vehicles Mbeya and andtrucksplybetween afternoon Many andarrivingbyevening. and Mzuzu,departingtheborder bymid- theborderat leastonebusdailybetween there are toKaronga. minibuses There’s also 300m walktotheMalawian side,fromwhere the border;onceatborder,there’s abouta connectingbothMbeyaandKyelawith buses Thereday (TSh29,000). are alsodailymini- the afternoon, arrivinginLilongwethenext in timesweekly departseveral Mbeya, buses Mbeya, andget onwardtransportthere. From It’s better totake Scandinavian fromDarto Salaam about 27hours). 5am(TSh47,000, es SalaamandLilongwe,departingDar Coming fromMalawi, the bestoptionis Dar gothree between Buses timesweekly

( h , southeastof Mbeya. 7.30am-6pm Tanzanian time,6.30amto5pm matatu www.lonelyplanet.com andshared- Songwe River Songwe River .com) and Macaloge. the Rovuma toLichinga viaNova Madeira bique, there’s otherdayfrom atruckevery transport andonfoot.Oncein Mozam- Songea totheRovuma viasporadicpublic where there’s adailyvehicle toMueda. bique townisMoçimboadoRovuma, from 10km inMozambique).Themain Mozam- sides (upto25kminTanzania, andatleast rarely longwalksonboth andentails used grees South( p247 ), orat date first attheOldBoma( p247 ) orTen De- anup- vehicles days.Get waitingforseveral andleave knowntoskipoff hasbeen tain per person/large vehicle), thecap- though that operates tide(TSh500/20,000 athigh vehicle, there’s avehicle ferry atKilambo walking to/fromtheriverbank. andkeep upwiththecrowdwhen the boats, ings, especiallywhengetting intoandoutof pickpockets. Keep aneyeonyourbelong- Mozambique sideisabetter option. in themiddleof theriver; campingonthe onasandbank bedbug-ridden guesthouse If youget stuckattheRovuma, there’s a with thelastonedepartingbyaboutnoon. to MoçimboadaPraia(US$7,fourhours), border post(about4kmfurther)andon ally twopick-upsdailytotheMozambique On theMozambiqueside,there are usu- water dangerous levels; duringheavy rains). 10 minutes toover anhour,dependingon (TSh2000, viadugoutcanoe which iscrossed onehour),andontotheRovuma,(TSh3000, 7am and9amfortheKilamboborderpost Camp; inMozambique www.lonelyplanet.com bridge tothe Rwandan border post,from Benako. At the border, walk across the border post; see p205 for connectionsto southwest of theborder) andRusumuFalls expatriates before off. setting an update fromyourembassy orresident of inthisregion, instability it’sworth getting problems recently, but duetoalonghistory southwest of Bukoba. There have no been The mainbordercrossing isatRusumuFalls, TO/FROM RWANDA Further west,youcanmake yourwayfrom The bordercrossingsouthof Newalais If you’re travelling thisroute byprivate The Rovuma crossingisnotoriousfor Pick-ups departMtwaradailybetween Daily pick-ups go between Benako (30km Benako Daily pick-ups gobetween inPemba (Mozambique). % 082-686273; russellbott@yahoo Russell’s Place (Cashew TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting ( The mainbordercrossingisat TO/FROM ZAMBIA but theroadisbadandsparsely travelled. another crossingfurtherwestatNkurungu, Tarmac accessroutes onbothsides.There’s south of theMutukulaborder),withgood in andoutof Tanzania atKyaka,about30km youactuallyget Bukoba (although stamped The mainpostisatMutukula,northwestof TO/FROM UGANDA and Kigali. Mwanza occasional direct between buses Kigali (US$5,three hours). There are also where gotoKibungoandon to minibuses Tawfiq busarrives late atnight. pala andget anotherbusthenextdayas inKam-headed toNairobiit’sbetter tosleep Kenya (US$20,36hours), ifyou’re though forUgandaplus transitvisas (US$15)and continues ontoNairobiandDar(TSh40,000) and about1.30pm.FromKampala, Tawfiq hours). Departures fromKampala are at7am fiveing Bukobaabout7am(TSh11,000, tosix BukobaandKampala,daily between depart- Dolphin (thebestconnection)andTawfiq go morning, andKampala atmidday.Jaguar/ 27 hours) andArusha,departingDar inthe Salaam andKampala viaNairobi(TSh50,000, hours). to/fromKampalaweekly 19 (TSh20,000, Mbala (Zambia). ing atKasesha, Sumbawangaand between southwest of Mbeya. There’s alsoacross- bian transport to Lusaka (US$20,18hours).bian transportto Lusaka where youwalkacross the borderforZam- twohours),Mbeya andTunduma (TSh2500, gofrequently minibuses between Otherwise, 24hours). (TSh60,000, nings fromLusaka dawn fromDaresSalaamandin theeve- viaMbeya, departingat Salaam andLusaka es Salaam and Mbeya ( p265 ) and between Dar between slower ‘ordinary’ train weekly to continue bybus.Tazara alsohas one From Kapiri you’llneed Mposhi toLusaka, viaMbeya andTunduma.twice weekly 1st/2nd/economy class,about40hours) in (TSh55,000/39,100/31,500 in Zambia links DaresSalaam withKapiri Mposhi h Scandinavian goes daily between Dares dailybetween Scandinavian goes From Mwanza, Akamba goes fourtimes From Mwanza,Akambagoes Scandinavian goes daily between Dares dailybetween Scandinavian goes The Tanzania–Zambia (Tazara) trainline 7.30am-6pm Tanzania time,6.30am-5pmZambiatime) Tunduma 259

,

TANZANIA TANZANIA Ferry oratShimoni.in Mombasa, InKenya,mation onsailings. askattheport or inMkoaniWete onPemba forinfor- Asklong andrough. attheportsinTanga, Tanga thejourneycanbe andMombasa; Pemba, sporadicallybetween Dhows sail Dhow TO/FROM KENYA from DRCongo. to/ There’s currently service nopassenger CONGO TO/FROM DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOFTHE andBujumbura. Nyanza Lac border, fromwhere there are to minibuses der. Oncethere, walkafew kilometres tothe oma, p216 ) tojustsouthof theBurundibor- a lake fromKibirizi(justnorthof taxi Kig- situationpermitting,youcantake Security Lake Taxi ice ontheMV ously there overnight aweekly hadbeen serv- Kigoma andBujumburaissuspended.Previ- The regular between passenger-ferry service Ferry TO/FROM BURUNDI ferries fromTanzanian ports. There’s forallboatsand aUS$5porttax &Lake Sea about 20hours). bian sideof theZambia–Tanzania border, Kapiri MposhiandNakonde(ontheZam- 260 Saturday (US$10/4 in1st/economy class, four on Bay on Friday, andNkhata Mbamba Bay (Malawi), Bay departing and Nkhata Bay The MV Ferry TO/FROM MALAWI Port aboutsailings. passengers. Inquire atthe MwanzaSouth Kenya thatare sometimeswilling totake casional cargo boatsdepartMwanzafor TanzaniaVictoria between andKenya. Oc- onLake There’s ferry nopassenger service the portinKigomaforanupdate. Inquire at as thepoliticalsituationstabilises. lars cashonly,11hours), which mayresume 1st/2nd/economy class,paymentinUSdol- TRANSPORT INTANZANIA TRANSPORT There &Away ••Getting Songea Mwongozo sails between Mbamba between sails (US$30/25/20in day morning. Departures fromMpulungu day afternoon, reaching Mpulungu Fri- Departures from Kigomaare onWednes- and Kasanga (southwest of Sumbawanga). tional Park), Kalema (southwest of Mpanda) (for Mahale Na- Mountains include Lagosa cash only;atleast 40hours). Stopsenroute 45/40 in1st/2nd/economy class,USdollars (US$55/ weekly with Mpulunguin Zambia better partof acentury,connectsKigoma plying thewaters of Tanganyika Lake forthe The venerable MV Ferry TO/FROM ZAMBIA cabins foranegotiableextrafee. fees. Crew are often willingtorent outtheir topayaboutUS$20,including port Expect the immigrationofficer attheSouthPort. required, tocheck butyou’llneed inwith InMwanza,aletter isn’t railway station. floor of thebuildingnexttoKampala’s the managingdirector’s office,onthe 2nd directorthe railway-station (free). Ask for aletter ofside, you’llneed permissionfrom ships (about16hours). OntheUgandan on cargoMwanza andKampala’s PortBell relatively easytoarrange passage between There’s butit’s nopassenger-ferry service, TO/FROM UGANDA on the Tanzania andMozambiqueisviaMalawi southwestern routeThe official between Ferry bati orMoçimboadaPraia(Mozambique). (12 to30hours) are bestarranged atMsim- MozambiqueandTanzaniaDhows between Dhow TO/FROM MOZAMBIQUE and sometimescancelledcompletely. to five hours). variable Theschedule ishighly .net) this wayisrisky. and suddensqualls,doingthejourney isnotoriousforitssevere Nyasa Lake ever, Tanzaniabetween andMozambique. How- alongtheeastern shoresail of Nyasa Lake Ilala Metangula (bothinMozambique)onthe on toLikomaIsland(Malawi), Cóbuèand Bay andthenfromNkhata lawi section), thepreceding Ma- (see Bay and Nkhata . Unofficially, there are smallboatsthat ferry Songea (in Malawi (in Malawi ferry between Mbamba Bay ferry Mbamba Bay between Liemba, % www.lonelyplanet.com 01-587311; ilala@malawi which has been which hasbeen National Park, Tanga, Tarangire NationalPark, Zanzibar. Serengeti Reserve, Game Selous Reserve, Saadani Game NationalPark,Pemba, RubondoIslandNationalPark, Ruaha NationalPark, Mwanza, Manyara Mafia, Lake Masoko, Kilwa 022-211 7959;www.coastal.cc) Arusha,DaresSalaam, tanzania.com) Dar esSalaam Lake Manyara National Park, Manyara National Park. Serengeti Lake Arusha, Kilimanjaro, www.airkenya.com/docs/regair3.htm) es Salaam,Zanzibar. Dar Manyara, airexcelonline.com) Lake Arusha,Serengeti, Tours oryouhaverough aheavy pack. on yourperspective) ifthelake atnight, is depending an adventure (ornerve-racking, thattake youtoshoresmall boats –abitof inthemiddleofdisembark thelake into to but atmanysmallerstopsyou’llneed best time. tobethe a cabin;Mondaymorningseems ifyouwant your luggage, andbookearly Keepeconomy-class seating. watch over –better tofinddeckspacethan comfortable areseating bothpoorlyventilated andun- cabins (fourbunks)andeconomy-class clean bunksandawindow.Second-class relatively withtworeasonably comfortable, ments anddrinkingwater. First classis board, butit’sbesttobringsomesupple- are Fridayafternoon. Foodisavailable on www.lonelyplanet.com Regional Air Services AirServices Regional Air Precision Coastal Aviation airline, national The Air AROUND GETTING and trekking operators, see p92 . Africa, see elsewhere inEast p635 . Forsafari For touroperators covering Tanzania and things inadvancewithacompanyathome. bytheconvenienceweighed of organising a Tanzania-based company,thismaybeout- generally cheaper toorganise yourtourwith package toursganise toTanzania. While it’s Dozens of companiesor- tourandsafari Salaam, Kigoma, Mwanza, Shinyanga,Tabora,Salaam, Kigoma, Zanzibar. Arusha,Bukoba,Dar es 2818; www.precisionairtz.com) Air Excel do charters). domestically includethefollowing (allalso manjaro andMtwara. Otherairlinesflying Kili- Dar esSalaamwithMwanza,Zanzibar, There are docksatKigomaandKasanga, ( % hasreliable connecting flights % ( 027-254 8429,027-2501597;reservations@ % ( 022-211 8411,022-2844293;www.air % 022-212 1718,022-213 0800, 022-284 3293, 2877, ( % 027-250 4477, 027-2502541; Air Tanzania

(Map (Map p118 ;

027-250 TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT Around ••Getting National Park, Zanzibar. NationalPark, Serengeti Tarangire- Reserve, Game Selous NationalPark, Pemba, Manyara Mafia, Dar esSalaam,Lake In theory,theMV Lake Nyasa p157. and p154 p125, see Pemba, and ferries DaresSalaam, Zanzibar between pertriponallroutes.ofport tax For details andPemba.Salaam, Zanzibar There’s aUS$5 Dares andbetween Nyasa, ganyika andLake Ferries Tan- operate Victoria,Lake onLake FERRY also take you.See p637 . if they’re andmaybeunwilling to caught, areSalaam; captains subjecttoheavy fines andDares Zanzibar any dhowsbetween prohibited dhows,andon onnonmotorised and themainland.Foreigners are officially Mafia towns;and between with othercoastal Kilwa Kivinje,Lindi,MikindaniandMtwara connecting those andMombasa; Bagamoyo zibar andPemba with DaresSalaam,Tanga, Main connectingZan- routes includethose DHOW Boat for general information. Lushoto, oranywhere onPemba). See p636 (egthewestern Usambarasbase around cyclingisoftensatisfactory fromafixed themost ation intopographybetween, As are distances long,often withlittlevari- Bicycle ZanAir bike inthehold. to make advancearrangements tostowyour are unwilling.Forexpress you’ll need buses, many drivers though andbuses, minibuses ing aroundanddoing thereturn trip.This inMalawi, Bay beforeacross toNkhata turn- omy class,18to24 hours). Itthencontinues in1st/econ- (TSh14,000/8000 Mbamba Bay Mango andLiuli(butnotviaMatema) to way downthecoast viaLupingu,Manda, Port about1pmonThursday andmakes its In theory,bicyclescanbetransported on is TSh5000. tax fordomesticflights departure Airport DOMESTIC DEPARTURE TAX ( % 024-223 3670/8;www.zanair.com) Arusha, Songea departs Itungi

261 TANZANIA TANZANIA in Matema ( p234 ). along theKyelaroute, oratoneof thehotels Iringa the bestplacestoget anupdate forboththe Schedules are very fluidandchange often; back againonWednesdayforthereturn trip. otherportsenroute beforeseveral turning day andstoppingatMatema, Lupinguand departing ItungiaboutmiddayonTues- halfway downtheTanzanian lakeshore), villages ItungiandManda between (about The MV Lake Victoria KigomaandBujumbura(Burundi). tween p260 forinformationonconnections be- see oma andMpulungu(Zambia), p260 . See For theMV Lake Tanganyika interrupted. unreliableschedule ishighly andfrequently 262 Mwanza and Ukerewe Island, see p206 . rembe are around noononThursday. Island (14 hours). Departures fromNyami- haramulo) withastopen route atMaisome Mwanza forNyamirembe (northeastof Bi- At 8.30amWednesday the Departures fromNkome are at8amSunday. Saturday, arriving atNkomeabout 6pm. Departures fromMwanza are at8.30am en route, including at Maisome Island. 4300 in2nd/3rdclass) withnumerousstops TSh6100/ and Nkome(northwestof Geita, will atleasthalve thetransittime. imminently,which expected tobeginservice able onboard.Asmaller,faster is speedboat soon asyouknowyourplans.Food isavail- fill upquicklyinbothdirections, sobook as 1st-class lounge. First- and2nd-classcabins spotinthe then beabletofindacomfortable to buya3rd-classticket. Withluck,youmay thebestbetis 1st-class or2nd-classsleeping, soifyoucan’tgetcomfortable, aspotin sittingisun- six-bed cabins.Second-class two-bed has cabins,and2nd-class sleeping day, WednesdayandFriday.First-class has partures fromBukobaare at9.30pmMon- ninehours).3rd classplusporttax, De- sitting/ 1st class/2nd-classsleeping/2nd-class in Sunday (TSh16,500/14,500/11,300/10,600 koba at10pmonTuesday,Thursday and The smallerMV For information on connections between For information onconnections between The MV TRANSPORT INTANZANIA TRANSPORT Around •• Getting andthe Victoria Butiama Liemba Songea departsMwanzaforBu- schedule between Kig- schedule between Iringa sails between Mwanza between sails are withbusdrivers services lakeside services Butiama departs (Kenya), Njombe,Songea. (Kenya), Morogoro,Nairobi Kyela, Mbeya,Mombasa(Kenya), (Uganda), Kampala Arusha, DaresSalaam,Dodoma,Iringa, the choice isoften buses 30-seater between For shorter tripsaway from themain routes, MINIBUS &SHARED TAXI prior to the journeydate. (and payfor)your ticket atleastthree days dinavian Express tocollect routes, but need pala). Youcanbook tickets onlinefor Scan- Sumbawanga) and Jaguar (Bukoba,Kam- Mwanza, Nairobi, Singida),Sumry(Mbeya, Takrim/Tawfiq (Arusha,Bukoba,Kampala, Other lines,none distinguished,include Scandinavian Express Royal Coach Dar Express their destinations: next major destination. often berequired topaythefullfare tothe press you’ll though willdropyouoff, buses tell youthere’s aluggage fee. anyonewhotriesto touts, anddon’tbelieve your tickets andnotfromthe atthe office, hounded by touts.Buy you’ll beincessantly are chaotic, andattheonesintouristareas charging isn’tunheardof. Mostbusstations the driver. of thebus,where there’s usually spacenear orinthefront your packunderseat forluggage.stowunderneath Otherwise, thebusstation. office, usuallyatornear buslinehasitsownbooking advance. Each and shouldbebooked atleastonedayin Royal Coach fillupquicklyonallroutes, hour priortodeparture. Scandinavian and an a placebyarrivingatthebusstation youcansometimesgetadvance, although stops andruntoalessrigorousschedule. often packed tooverflowing, make many which arethe onlyoptionisordinarybuses, routes,are Onsecondary called‘luxury’buses. have air-con andtoilets,thenicestones anddepartonschedule.dinary buses Some make fewer stops,are lesscrowdedthanor- express Express buses andordinarybuses. Major routes have long-distance achoice of Bus Major of buscompaniesandasampling For shortstretches alongmainroutes, ex- Prices are basicallyfixed, over- although Most express have buses acompartment in For popularroutes, bookyourseat Arusha,DaresSalaam. Arusha,DaresSalaam. (www.scandinaviagroup.com) www.lonelyplanet.com vehicle, see vehicle, see p638 . For informationaboutbringingyourown cal tohire acarormotorcyclefortouring. erator. andeconomi- it’seasy OnZanzibar op- atour orsafari local transportthrough on onepartof thecountry,andthenarrange Tanzania bycar. More commonistofocus tively unusualfortravellers totourmainland Africa,it’srela-familiar withdrivinginEast Unless youhave yourownvehicle andare &Motorcycle Car (‘Coasters’ or www.lonelyplanet.com TSh850 perlitreTSh850 Fillingandre- for diesel). Petrol perlitre costsaboutTSh1040 (about FUEL &SPARE PARTS Uganda orSouthAfrica. (see licence fromZanzibar p143 ), Kenya, aninternationalneed drivinglicence,ora you’ll national drivinglicence. OnZanzibar, driving licenceor(preferably) aninter- yourhome On themainland,you’llneed DRIVING LICENCE transport options. they’re probablytheleastsafe of thevarious andshared leaveminibuses taxis whenfull; Tanzania nearArusha. Like ordinarybuses, aretaxis relatively rare, exceptinnorthern andnolegroom.Sharedunder theseats, ens ontheroof, bagsof producewedged Both optionscomecomplete withchick- once outsideTanzania. well). For cross-border routes, are departures usually timedsothatnight drivingwillbedone generally timed sothatthebus shouldreach itsdestinationby evening (assumingthat allgoes before you.On mostroutes, is in thedark youcan’tseethe roadswerving thelastdeparture usually better togowithafull-sized busthanaminibus or 30-seater bus. bus companiessuch asScandinavianExpress andRoyal Coach.Also,ifyouhave achoice,it’s vehicle safely throughtheday’s runs. helpfromaboveor ‘InGodweTrust’ –probablyinthehopethatabit of extra willseethe counterproductive. Manyvehicles have painted sloganssuch as from passengerstoslowdownusually have littleeffect, andpretending you’re sickoften is tosaytheleast.Impassioned pleas a sleekracingmachineonstraight road –nerve-racking onawinding,potholedroad. However,brakes he’llinvariablybedrivingasifhewere piloting vehicle beatthewheelofanageing,rickety windshieldandmarginalin fact withacracked blindisa bigproblem,asare highspeeds.a lottobedesired. Your busdriver Overtaking may buses beingamongtheworstoffenders. Roadconditionsare pooranddrivingstandardsleave Road accidentsare probablyyourbiggest safety riskwhiletravelling inTanzania, withspeeding PERILS OFTHEROAD Buses aren’t permitted todrive atnightinTanzania, whichisjustaswell,though atleast To maximiseyourchances ofhappyanduneventful travels, try to stickwithmore reputable thelathini ), and daladalas . TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT Around ••Getting site MövenpickRoyalPalm Hotel,withabranchinArusha. Ohio St,DaresSalaam;[email protected]) Oppo- vehicles in Arusha, Mwanza and Zanzibar vehicles inArusha,MwanzaandZanzibar Hertz Rentals Car Evergreen also a20%VAT. driver (US$15toUS$35perday).There’s ance (US$30toUS$40perday),fueland from US$70toUS$150perdayplusinsur- Pricesfor4WDrangefor insuranceandtax. US$40 excludingfuel,plusUS$20toUS$30 agencies. about at Dailyrates for2WDstart Dar esSalaamhasamodestarrayof car-hire HIRE parks, carryjerrycanswithextrafuel. For travel inremote areas andinnational youcanandcarrybasicspares.whenever towns, butscarceelsewhere,up sotank arepair stations readily available inmajor Avis ofin theevent abreakdown. US$1. Clarifywhatthecompany’spolicyis Per kilometre charges average US$0.50to none presently offer unlimited kilometres. outsideof DaresSalaam,and mit self-drive panies require 4WD.Also,mostdon’tper- Dar esSalaam) MövenpickRoyalPalm Hotel,OhioSt, [email protected]; Nyerere Rd,DaresSalaam) St& cnrNkrumah 022-218 5419;[email protected]; Elsewhere inTanzania, youcan hire 4WD For anythingoutsidethecity,mostcom- (Map (Map p118 ; Mp p118; (Map % Mungu Atubariki % 022-211 5381;SkylinkTravel&Tours, 022-212 2130,2363; (Map (Map p116 ; (GodBlessUs) % 022-218 2107,

263 TANZANIA TANZANIA Salaam to Mbeya highway passing through passing through Salaam toMbeyahighway ofparks, exceptforthesection theDares fine penaltyisTSh20,000. passengers. traffic- Theofficial front-seat Tanzania lawfordrivers hasaseatbelt and 80km/h; onmajor routes, policehave radar. limitis posted, thespeed Unless otherwise already of inroundaboutshastheright way. In theory,drivingisontheleft,andtraffic ROAD RULES road, andchildren runningintotheroad. pedestriansandanimalsinthe blind curves, 4WD. towns, you’llneed Formosttripsoutsidemajormaintained. andonwhentheywereon theseason last depending impassable, from goodtonearly wara isbeingpaved. roadsrange Secondary inga. TheroadfromDaresSalaamto Mt- es SalaamtoMbeyaviaMorogoroandIr- laam toArushaviaChalinze,andfromDar paved, includingtheroadsfromDaresSa- About 20%of Tanzania’s networkis road ROAD CONDITIONS &HAZARDS who bears responsibility forrepairs. car hire privately). Clarifybefore out setting hire motorcyclesandminibikes, andarrange (where it’salsoeasyto and lessonZanzibar erage US$70toUS$120perdayplusfuel, mostcomewith driver.Zanzibar, av- Rates cies, touroperators andhotels.on Except Town andothercentres travel through agen- 264 Motorcycles aren’t permitted innational Hazards includevehicles overtaking on area and with general information. inArusha ( tive attheTourist InformationOffice p181 ) who canhelpwith those intheArusha for areceipt. person costsdecrease withincreasing groupsize. Payments shouldbemadeonsite; alwaysask Per suchasschool orwellconstruction. communityprojects oftheincomesupports a portion able, fromhalfaday toseveral nights. Fees (listed intheregional chapters) are reasonable, and they’re great forgetting toknowTanzania atthelocallevel. Most have various ‘modules’avail- withthefocusonexperiencing localcultures.other activities, They rangeinlength fromafew hourstoafew days,andusuallycentre or aroundlight hikes Usambara Mountains(nearLushoto), andsouthernPare thenorthern MountainsandPangani. andMtoWaMbu,Gezaulole(nearDaresSalaam),the Machame (Moshi),Marangu,Engaruka Mulala, MkuruandLongidocountry, includingNg’iresi, (allaccessedfromArusha), Ilkiding’a, tour.Program (CTP) These are ‘community-owned’ventures spread invariousplacesaroundthe To seelocallife tryingaCultural awayfromtheorganised Tourism safariscene,it’s wellworth PROGRAM TOURISM CULTURAL TRANSPORT INTANZANIA TRANSPORT Around ••Getting Tours should be arranged directly with the local coordinator, although there’s a CTP representa-Tours should bearrangeddirectly withthe localcoordinator, althoughthere’s aCTP Some ofthetours are abitrougharound theedges,butothersare wellorganised, and regional chapters. listings inthe For localtouroperators, see andtrekkingFor safari operators, see p92 . Tours is TSh1500. have meters; rate fortowntrips thebase Taxis canbehired inallmajor towns.None TAXI whoalsocollectsfares.assistant, front window,orcalledoutbythedriver’s sengers. Destinationsare eitherposted inthe inordertocollectnewpas- other toastation Many are whenthe drivers caused raceeach dents are frequent, particularlyinminibuses. make manystops and are crowded.Acci- forlocaltownruns.ThevehiclesTSh100 ers. Pricesare fixed andinexpensive: from Rov-rural areas, pick-uptrucksoroldLand by Local routes are serviced DALADALA Local Transport also which topay.See you’llneed p638 . ers maybeyouronlytransportoption,for remote areas, hitching aliftwithtruckdriv- in usually fruitlessaroundthem.Thatsaid, It’s prohibited insidenationalparks,andis Hitching inTanzania isgenerally slowgoing. Hitching National Park. Alsosee p638 . SumbawangaandMpandaviaKatavitween Mikumi NationalPark, andontheroadbe- www.lonelyplanet.com daladalas and,in es Salaam) St&SokoineDr,Dar cnrRailway 211 7833;www.trctz.com; Tanzania hastworaillines: Train www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwith ourcontent.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’s fairtoaskyou useitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake tickets onthespot. canbebought onthe dayof travel.seat Economy-class occasionallyyou’llbeabletogetthough a daysinadvance,al- atleastseveral served Tickets for1stand2ndclassshouldbere- RESERVATIONS tions bybookingtheentire compartment. can onlytravel together sec- in the sleeping perperson. Menwith oneseat and women trains alsohave a‘2nd-classsittingsection’, class (benches, usuallyvery crowded).Some ing (six-bed compartments); andeconomy four-bed compartments), 2nd-classsleep- There are three 1stclass(two-or classes: CLASSES Corporation’s and Tunduma;theTanzanian Railway viaMbeya with Kapiri MposhiinZambia delays are common. but onbothlines,breakdowns andlong ontheDodoma–Singidaspur.service Tabora withMpanda;there’s alsopassenger Tabora. Abranch Linelinks of the Central and MwanzaviaMorogoro,Dodoma son Mandela Rds,DaresSalaam) son Mandela 0340/4, 022-2865339;www.tazara.co.tz; cnrNyerere &Nel- Tazara ismore and efficient, comfortable ooat igd – Th040 TSh6900 TSh6000 TSh10,400 TSh6400 – – TSh11,000 TSh15,000 TSh7200 TSh18,800 TSh13,000 TSh12,600 – TSh13,600 TSh17,700 – Economy TSh16,300 TSh24,200 TSh17,600 TSh32,600 2nd-classsitting TSh33,100 Dodoma toSingida 2nd-classsleeping TSh32,700 Tabora toMpanda 1stclass Mwanza toTabora TSh44,600 Dar esSalaamtoTabora TSh45,200 Dar esSalaamtoMwanza Dar esSalaamtoKigoma Destination TRAIN COSTS linksDaresSalaamwithKigoma Central Line Central links DaresSalaam

Mp p118; (Map Tazara ( % % 022-286 022- TRANSPORT INTANZANIATRANSPORT Around ••Getting economy class. in 1st/2nd/ cost TSh24,500/18,400/12,200 24 hours DarandMbeya, between and Mbeya. Ordinarytrainstake about DaresSalaam an ‘ordinary’trainbetween viaMbeya,and Kapiri MposhiinZambia press’ DaresSalaam and trainsbetween Tazara runsthree two‘ex- trainsweekly: Tazara evenings. Kigoma toDaresSalaamalsodepartinthe much longer. TrainsfrombothMwanzaand 40 hours, it’smore though often thannot ora). Intheory,bothjourneystake about Kigoma andMwanza(splittingatTab- three forboth intheevening timesweekly LinetrainsdepartDaresSalaam Central Central Line changes. should probablyexpectschedule andprice vations andmanagement changes, soyou Both linesare currently undergoing reno- SCHEDULES &COSTS Mpanda aroundmidday. departingTaboraweekly, and intheevening Mpanda (about14hours) runthree times morning. hours), departingineach direction inthe around11 Dodoma andSingida(taking Trains travelling Tabora between and Trains run three times a week between Trains runthree between timesaweek © LonelyPlanetPublications

265 TANZANIA