Tea Clippers to Trafalgar – a Greenwich Gait

This walk through the streets of Royal Greenwich takes you to some great pubs while seeing history on every corner. There is plenty of opportunity to combine culture with beer, so give yourself a full day if you would like to take advantage of all that Greenwich has on offer. For details on many of the historic sites and museums, see www.rmg.co.uk. If you fancy a walk, then there is also Greenwich Park, which covers almost 183 acres: http://www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/greenwich-park.

We start at Maze Hill over-ground station serviced by trains from central London (12 minutes from London Bridge). As you leave, follow the signs to the Maritime Museum, turn left at the top of the street then immediately right into Park Vista. An entrance to Greenwich Park (why not pop in if you are early – the Observatory is at the top) is on the left and you should be able to see the sign for your first pub about 200m away. Glance right down Greenwich Park Street for a view of the power station and your first glimpse of the towers of Docklands.

Plume of Feathers, 19 Park Vista, SE10 9LZ A charming pub complemented visually by the surrounding houses, which boast Wisteria in the Spring. Although now a one bar hostelry with a horseshoe bar, this is an historic building with parts dating from 1691. The lowish ceiling, George & Dragon stained windows, red soft comfy seating, maritime memorabilia (quite frequent in many pubs on this crawl) and a real fire in winter adds to the atmosphere and cosiness.

There is a restaurant menu for the separate room to the rear and a bar menu with the latter offering 100% beef burgers, bangers and mash and other staple fayre. When the weather is nice, head for the garden at the back of the pub. The pub holds pub quizzes every other Wednesday.

The beers are Harvey’s Sussex Bitter and Sharp’s Doombar and there are usually guests. The pub’s opening hours are: 11-11 Mon-Thu; 11-midnight Fri & Sat; 12-11 Sun (www.plumeoffeathers-greenwich.co.uk).

Leave the pub turning right and follow the curve of the road (presided over by the Maritime Museum) around into Park Row, cross Trafalgar Road at the crossing and head down to the Thames for Nelson’s statue and

Trafalgar, 6 Park Row SE10 9NW Built on the site of the Old George Inn, this riverside pub dates from 1837 and is said to have been frequented by William Gladstone and Charles Dickens.

High white ceilings and walls with a touch of mushroom, gives an airy feel to this upmarket establishment with prices to match but somehow you can forgive this handsome Regency Style building for this with its bay windows giving stunning views of the Thames. There are three separate bar areas, all with seafaring prints and photos and an attractive separate dining area. Upstairs is the stunning Nelson Banqueting Rooms that can be hired for functions.

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The beers available are Adnams and Sharp’s. The pub is open 12-11 Mon–Thu; 12-12 Fri & Sat; 12-10.30 Sun. Food is on sale in the bar and restaurant12-10 Mon-Sat and 12-4 Sun. Booking for the restaurant is advisable: www.trafalgartavern.co.uk.

Although you can follow the river, our walk suggests you turn left out of the pub, retracing your steps until after about 50m you reach, on your right, two large gatehouses and enter the magnificent grounds of the University of Greenwich , the Old Royal Naval College and the Painted Hall. Pub walks don’t get much better than this – just soak up the history and the views! Signposts will lead you to Discover Greenwich and

The Old Brewery, Pepys Building, Old Royal Naval College SE10 9LW This outlet is so called as it is on the site of the old Greenwich Brewery. It is divided into two very different halves. One side is a modern bar but with the old brick work exposed and etched windows, through which you can see the outside drinking terrace - a pleasant sun trap. There are three real ales on handpump, usually one from Dark Star, as well as Meantime’s bottled beers and Old Brewery craft keg beers (brewed on the premises) plus an excellent selection of imported bottled beers. The beer menu can help you choose.

The bar offers brunch (11-5) and a selection of other dishes from noon; note the traditional British deserts such as Bread & Butter Pudding. Each main dish has a suggestion for a matching beer.

The other half of the Old Brewery has a large vaulted ceiling and plays hosts to a cafeteria style dining room during the day with access to Discover Greenwich next door, which means there are usually lots of tourists. The eye catching copper coloured brewery dominates the area, extending up to the roof, almost like a cathedral organ. From 6pm, the area becomes a restaurant, which also hosts occasional beer and food matching evenings; see: www.oldbrewerygreenwich.com. The pub opens: 11-11 Mon-Sat; 12-10.30 Sun.

Leave as you entered back onto the central pedestrian route and turn right heading into the centre of Greenwich. Exit the grounds and stick on the right hand-side, unless of course you fancy an excursion into the covered market on your left. Back on route turn right into Greenwich Church Street heading towards to the Thames and the truly magnificent, recently restored Cutty Sark and the entrance to the foot tunnel under the river.

Gypsy Moth, Greenwich Church Street SE10 9BL In the shadow of the Cutty Sark, the Gypsy Moth’s large garden patio gives great views of the ship as does the conservatory at the back of the pub. This section has an eclectic bar overlooked by two bronze coloured figure heads and a glass chandelier. It is biased towards food (12-10), which is simple seasonal fayre including a fixed price two or three course menu but is complemented by bar snacks such as Gloucestershire Old Spot sausage rolls and scotch eggs.

The front bar is a contrast: dark wood and traditionally cosy. There are four handpumps including Fuller’s London Pride. Opening times are: 12-10 Mon-Thu; 12-11 Fri & Sat; 12- 10.30 Sun. The pub is named after Sir Francis Chichester’s boat, which was once moored nearby. www.thegipsymothgreenwich.co.uk

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Leave the pub retracing your steps, crossing the road and turning right into Creek Road for your final pub.

Gate Clock, 210 Creek Road SE10 9RB The entrance brings you into the large ground floor Wetherspoon’s pub with subdued lighting. The interspersed pillars and raised seating breaks up the space. Through the large windows that fill one side of the pub, you can see Up the Creek, opposite, which has comedy and disco events.

There are ten real ales including Greene King’s Abbot and Ruddle’s Best Bitter and Fuller’s London Pride. There are also three ciders. Upstairs is a quieter bar with views of St Alfege’s Church, which was built by Sir Christopher Wren. As always with a Wetherspoon’s pub, there is value for money food on offer starting with breakfast (the pub is open 8-midnight).

The pub is virtually next door to the Cutty Sark Docklands Light Railway station. From here you can take trains north into Docklands to connect to tube systems and south to Lewisham, change at Greenwich to re-connect to the main train over- ground system to get back into central London.

But those with an adventurous spirit, and some energy, can leave the Clock House, cross the road heading right following Greenwich Church Street into High Road, cross over and turn left into Royal Hill for

Greenwich Union Tavern This pub is a little out of the way but its range of real ales plus an extensive imported bottled beer range makes the walk worthwhile. It is owned by the local Meantime Brewery and is a comfortable one room pub with booth seating. The glass doors at one end assist in providing natural light and access to an outside patio seating area.

The menu covers light snacks/starters and burgers as well as a range of main courses and deserts. The food is available daily until 10 (9 Sun) but not between 4 and 5.30 Mon to Fri. Takeaway sales are available and. the pub opens noon to 11 Mon-Fri, 11-11 Sat, 11.30 to 7.30 Sun. www.greenwichunion.com. Next door is an attractive Young’s pub if you still have any room for beer

From the Tavern, you retrace your steps and at the end of Royal Hill you either turn left for a short walk to Greenwich Station or right for Cutty Sark station.

Cheers

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