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SIGHTS • • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE PLANNER JANJAN 19 • LONDONPLANNERLONDONPLANNER.COM.COM

SPECIAL ISSUE Secret bars, restaurants #LPSELFIE and sights The greatest photo spots SCOTTISH SUPPERS How to mark Burns Night

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WhereWhere to watchwatch London’sLondon’s New Year’s DayDay Parade Pa r t y FINFFIND YOUR TOUR GET CLOSER TO THE HOME OF AUDIO TOURS IN 9 LANGUAGES

arsenal.com/tours The Mayor’s letter Welcome to London this January After we welcomed the New Year in style with our fireworks display on the Thames, there’s another amazing show at Waltham Forest with the opening event for our first London Borough of Culture. Welcome to the Forest (11-13 Jan) celebrates , music and local culture, and is free and open to all. This launch party sees Mercury Award-winning musician Talvin Singh collaborating with local artists and students to create a soundtrack and light display projected each evening onto Waltham Forest Town Hall. Exhibitions to look forward to in the capital’s museums and galleries include the displaying remarkable Michelangelo drawings, plus his only UK-based marble sculpture. The London International Mime Festival returns, bringing show-stopping contemporary visual theatre to city-wide venues. Burns Night (25 Jan) gives you the chance to enjoy food, poetry and dancing, with many restaurants celebrating the Scottish FIND YOUR poet. However you spend your time, have a wonderful visit! Sadiq Khan

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HOTEL PARTNER CIRQUEDUSOLEIL.COM | ROYALALBERTHALL.COM Contents Januaryy 2019 03 Mayor’s welcome Sadiq Khan welcomes you to London 06 Top 10 free attractions The most popular places to visit 08 Photo opportunities We tell you the perfect places to pose for an #LPselfie 12 Poetry in motion From to , here’s how to enjoy the Scottish festival, Burns Night 16 Join the parade A guide to the New Year’s Day Parade 18 Discover How to save money in the capital 1818 74 Britain Planner The quirkiest festivals in the country 72 90 London in numbers Statistics on secret London Listings 20 Sightseeing 44 Museums & Galleries 50 Entertainment 60 Sport 62 Shopping 66 Eating Out 72 Nightlife 8 78 Essential Information Maps 58 Theatreland 82 Central London 85 River services 50 86 88

DOWNLOAD THE LATEST ISSUE NOW! SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS at: www.visitlondon.com/londonplanner LONDON PLANNERPLANNE THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE or: www..com/londonplanner JANJJA 19 • LONDONPLANNLONDONPLANNER.COM R A ER.COM

SPECIAL Read a digital copy: www.en.calameo.comm ISSUE Secret bars, restaurants and sights #LPSELFIE The greatest photo spots SCOTTISH SUPPERS How to mark or subscribe to receive a printed copy Burns Night

every month by contacting: JOIN [email protected] THE

Where to watch London’s New Year’s Day Parade

PaP rty FINDFINF t YOUR

LP JAN COVER.indd 1

COVER COURTESY OF LONDON’S NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE. THIS PAGE: RED DEER © ISTOCK; PLATFORM 9¾ © NEIL SIMPSON; GENUINE LIQUORETTE COURTESY OF GENUINE LIQUORETTE; CIRQUE DU SOLEIL © MATT BEARD PHOTOGRAPHY London’s most popular free attractions compiled according to the latest visitor numbers. Free Attractions www.visitlondon.com. Source: ALVA

TOP 1 22 3 10

7 6 5 4

8 9 10

1 The 6 Science Museum

Famous museum housing treasures including Interactive scientific fun for kids and grown-ups, HERZOG & DSON & DI MEURON; OTHER ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK the Rosetta Stone and the Egyptian mummies boasting everything from rockets to steam engines 2 Modern 7 Former power station in containing Major arts centre hosting music, dance and arts an international modern art collection events, plus the refurbished 3 The 8 Priceless European art belonging to the nation, Neoclassical gem beside the river is home with works by Botticelli, da Vinci and van Gogh to contemporary arts and cultural events 4 Natural History Museum 9 Royal Museums Displays of the natural world, including Maritime history and world-class art at this prehistoric fossils, dinosaurs and taxidermy immense Unesco World Heritage Site 5 Victoria and Albert Museum 10 Incredible artefacts spanning more than 3,000 Graceful gallery, home to British art from

years, including art, sculpture and fashion 1500 to today, including a Turner collection HISTORY MUSEUMNATURAL COURTESY HISTORY MUSEUM; OF NATURAL VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; MODERN DAVI THE © HAYES NEW TATE

6 | LONDON PLANNER TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc Bros. TM & © Warner Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World Bros. TM & © 2019 Warner

Enter the most breathtaking room at Hogwarts, relive memorable scenes and fi nd out how fi lmmakers brought the magic to life.

TICKETS MUST BE PURCHASED IN ADVANCE AT WBSTUDIOTOUR.CO.UK Queen’s Guard St Paul’s Cathedral

Lions in Prime Meridian Line

PSELFIE LONDON’S#L Photo opportunities Here are our top spots to share on , says Neil Simpson

f you were to ask a Londoner for the ultimate CROSS ABBEY ROAD Iphoto spots in the capital, your list would grow Released in 1969, Abbey Road was the first Beatles very long, very quickly. There are simply too album not to include any writing on its cover; many sights to narrow it down to the 10 best John, Paul, George and Ringo must have known locations, but that’s what we have done. that such a fantastic image didn’t need any Call us brave, call us misguided, or call us to tell us added extras. What they couldn’t have known we’ve got it wrong: here are the ultimate London was that this humble zebra crossing in St John’s Insta spots. Join our social media conversation to Wood would become an Instagram legend. The tell us what you think using #LPselfie and tag us Abbey Road Studios website even has a live video

on Instagram and Twitter @LondonPlanner. camera feed, which screens what’s happening © ISTOCK CATHEDRAL HILL AND ST PAUL’S QUEEN’S GUARD, PARLIAMENT

8 | LONDON PLANNER THE BEATLES COURTESY OF THE BEATLES; OTHER IMAGES © NEIL SIMPSON the earthbetween eastandwest: it’s thehome itself, thisimportant markintheground divides A Greenwich hotspotwhere peoplestraddle time as y You’ll behoppingfrom onefoot totheother STRADDLE THEPRIMEMERIDIANLINE northern exit. photography. You’ll findtheplatform nearthe Potter Shopisthere toassistwithprops and the VIPpackage toskipthequeue).TheHarry so expecttoqueuefor atleast20minutes(book his luggagetrolley, everyone wants torunatone, adventure bytryingtorunatabrickwall with Station. Ever sinceHarry Potter startedhis taking aselfieonPlatf Be warned: you’re not thefirst person toconsider FIND PLATFORM 9¾ while you’re there. www.shop.abbeyroad.com Don’t missthegreat Abbey RoadStudiosshop that day, soyou can findyourself onCCTV. on thecrossing. You can alsoclicktoearliertimes ou poseabove the Prime MeridianLine. Parliament Hill www.harrypotterplatform934.com crossing Abbey Abbey zebra Road Road orm 9 ¾ in King’s Cross inKing’s King’s Cross Station Platform 9¾at

become anendanger The riseofthemobilephonehasseenthese LOCATE AREDTELEPHONE BOX Museums Greenwich site.www.rmg.co.uk with your snapandyou may endupontheRoyal Greenwich MeanTime. Tagof #PrimeMeridian protect beasts were designedbySirEdwin Landseerto it’s twice ashard comingdown. Thefour bronze only climbthemifyou’re happywith heightsas minutes. Don’t be me; thelionsare elevated, so into my dad’sto jumpoff armsandcried for five T a When Iwas achild,Irode onthebackof MEET THETRAFALGAR SQUARE LIONS to Earl’s Court Stationwhere there isaTardis. in thebackground. Doctor Whofans shouldhead Square thatfeature BigBenandLondonbuses good newsisthatthere are several onParliament kept sometelephoneboxes onthestreets. The the invention of themobilephonecamera thathas rafalgar Square lion,gotstuck,was tooscared Nelson’s Column. ed species, butitisperhaps www.london.gov.uk Selfie spots JANUARY 2019JANUARY

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9 Selfie spots ’s glass walkway GAZE AT ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL One of London’s most photogenic buildings – long before anyone even knew what a photo was – is undoubtedly Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral. Head to the art gallery on the of the Thames, then stand at the southern end of the Millennium Bridge. You’ll get a beautiful view of St Paul’s; it also means that you can then cross the river to appreciate the majesty of the cathedral. As you walk over the bridge, look out for tiny, colourful artworks that have been stuck between the metal ridges on its surface. www.stpauls.co.uk

PEAK AT PARLIAMENT HILL Unless you go up a skyscraper, how do you see the whole of London? The answer is by heading to ’s Parliament Hill. It’s the perfect London vista and incorporates almost every landmark that you can think of. Parliament Hill is a 20-minute stroll from the southern edge of Hampstead Heath. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk

INSPECT THE QUEEN’S GUARD These most regal of soldiers are responsible for protecting the country’s official royal residences. With their red uniform and helmets, the Queen’s Guard was always destined for social media stardom. For a quick snap, stop by Parade to inspect the troops mounted on horses, or experience the full spectacle with Changing Telephone the Guard (p. 21). www.army.mod.uk boxes SPEND A PENNY AT Yes, it’s the loo with the view, up on floor 68 Loo with a view of Western Europe’s tallest building, The View at The Shard from The Shard. It boasts nothing but glass walls, jaw-dropping vistas and Champagne – and five bathrooms. But these aren’t just any bathrooms, because each offers a perch above a 800ft (244m) sheer drop: Instagram gold. All we ask while you’re snapping is to remember that there may be someone waiting outside, hopping from one foot to the other. www.theviewfromtheshard.com

VISIT ’S WALKWAY Is ‘seeing a bascule move’ on your London to-do list? Probably not, because you may not be familiar with the term. A bascule is a type of bridge which has a section that can be raised and lowered, just like Tower Bridge. Thanks to the upper walkway’s glass floors, you may get lucky and be up there WATCH OUR #LPSELFIE VIDEO when the bridge lifts. The two glass floors are both youtube.com/londonplanner 11m long and constructed using panels weighing

530kg each. www.towerbridge.org.uk TELEPHONE BOXES © ISTOCK; OTHER IMAGES COURTESY OF NEIL SIMPSON

10 | LONDON PLANNER Experience the best of London with us, the travellers choice for Hop-On-Hop-Off sightseeing.

Pssst, we’ve got a special deal for London Planner readers - get 20% off with online discount codeLP01 Unlimited Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus + Boat Live Guides Over 100 bus stops Free WIFI and Guided Walks Burns Night POETRY IN MOTION January marks the birthday of about its world-class ingredients. Peoplele the 18th-century Scottish poet don’t have a great impression of Scottish food (deep-fried everything!) but we have impeccable . Sarah Riches ingredients and a burgeoning food scene. suggests ways to celebrate Bringing a slice of that to London brings us joy. ‘We’ve popped up in a working in ach January, the Scottish community , a leather tannery in , – and anyone intrigued by its cuisine a furniture warehouse in Hackney and a biscuit and culture – celebrates Burns Night factory in Edinburgh, as well as whisky (25 Jan). The evening marks the distilleries all over . birthdayE of the Scottish poet Robert Burns, who ‘Burns Night is a fantastic celebration of was born in 1759 and known for A Red, Red Rose, Scottishness and a chance to remember a man and The Highland Lassie O, inspired who was a real cad. It’s about getting together to by a woman he fell in love with. enjoy great food, company and whisky alongside Five years after his death, a group of his friends storytelling. It’s an occasion that has real impact hosted a dinner at his cottage – but little did they – particularly when you have a room full of kilts!’ know this would kick-start a tradition. A typical Burns Night celebration includes a Paul Ross, co-founder of the pop-up Scottish bagpiper and a ceilidh, which combines singing, kitchen Dram & Smoke, says: ‘I started Dram & storytelling, poetry readings and energetic folk Smoke with a schoolfriend, Nick Fulton, in 2014. dances set to music, performed on flutes, fiddles The idea stemmed from our love of the natural and tin whistles. Burns’ 1788 poem Auld Lang

larder that is and a desire to shout Syne, which means ‘times gone by’, is also sung. IMAGES © ISTOCK

Haggis, neeps and tatties

Bagpipes

Single malt whisky

812 | | LONDON LONDON PLANNER PLANNER LET’S DANCE If you’d like to enjoy a ceilidh (pronounced ‘cay-lee’), or traditional Scottish dancing, then head to Skylight, a rooftop bar atop an old car park in Tobacco Dock, near Shadwell (check for dates). Ceilidh Club, meanwhile, hosts lively dances across London all year round – kilts are optional, but encouraged. They’re fun and fast-paced, so expect to get as hot as you would during a workout. Listen out for instructions from the caller, who is on hand to guide you if you don’t know the moves. Book ahead for the Burns Night ceilidh, held at Town Hall (19, 25-26 Jan & 1-2 Feb). Tickets include a buffet.

MAKING A MEAL OF IT Of course, traditional Scottish food is eaten on Burns Night. Typical starters could include (smoked haddock soup) or cock-a-leekie (chicken and leek soup made with prunes). A main course wouldn’t be complete without haggis, especially as Burns wrote Address Ceilidh Club to a Haggis, which is recited while it’s eaten. The pudding is a robust blend Dram & Smoke of sheep’s heart, liver and lungs mixed with onion and spices, which is stuffed in a sheep’s stomach. It’s served with neeps (mashed swede), tatties (mashed potatoes) and – , cabbage and onion patties. Mains might also include Stornoway , whose name – like

CEILIDH CLUB © SOPHIE GERRARD; DRAM & SMOKE IMAGES © BEN CARPENTER PHOTOGRAPHY Orkney lamb, Arbroath smokies and Dunlop – has a protected status. Made on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, it’s a mix of beef suet, oatmeal, onion and sheep, cow or pig’s blood, and can come deep-fried. Dessert takes the form of biscuits, and cheese or – a mix of oats, cream, honey, berries and whisky. Tipsy laird, or whisky trifle, is also popular, and features a sponge base topped with raspberry jam, raspberries, custard, double cream, flaked almonds and whisky. Scotch whisky, that key ingredient on any Burns Night. According to the Scotch Whisky Association there are five categories, but single malt Scotch whisky, which is made at a single distillery from water and malted barley, must be bottled in Scotland. Can’t make it to the Highlands? If you’re keen to experience a traditional meal then visit Mac & Wild, which serves all Braised beef at year round. It has branches in Fitzrovia and Dram & Smoke

JANUARY 2019 | 13 Burns Night

Devonshire Square in the City. Its specialities include venison Scotch eggs, Arbroath smoky chowder, haggis mac and cheese and smoked Scottish salmon with sourdough bread, whipped butter and lemon. The Devonshire Square branch also has a shooting range with replica shotguns and Haggis arancini virtual scenery in its basement. Its downstairs at Irvin Bar Grill whisky bar, meanwhile, hosts Drams in the Dark experiences on weekends, so you can taste a wee dram with the Irvin Bar Grill lights off, heightening your sense of taste and smell (www.macandwild.com). Alternatively, visit the Scottish restaurant Boisdale, which has branches in , Mayfair, and . The first three venues have heated cigar terraces. Dine on hand-dived Scottish scallops, whisky-cured smoked salmon, game pie or Aberdeenshire rib-steak burgers in traditional surroundings – each restaurant is decorated with red and green walls, mahogany panelling, taxidermy and tartan armchairs. If you’re not here for Burns Night, the restaurants host cheese and spirit tastings, piano open mic nights and live jazz all year round (www.boisdale.co.uk). For a more intimate meal, you can also visit Irvin Bar Grill in Crouch End. Its ‘Scotalian’ cuisine fuses Scottish and Italian produce. On Burns Night, the menu might include cullen skink, haggis ravioli, cranachan and whisky, while Mac & Wild’s Scottish staff shooting range read Burns’ poems (www.irvinbargrill.com). Mac & Wild At other times of the year you can snack on venison pepperoni or haggis arancini with neeps purée followed by roasted guinea fowl. Wash your meal down with the classic Scottish drink Irn-Bru – it’s orange, fizzy and tastes like liquid bubble gum. Alternatively, opt for Strathearn Heather Rose Scottish gin or a selection of smoky and non-smoky . Just don’t forget to raise your glass and say sláinte! Mac & Wild’s cosy interior IRVIN BAR GRILL © MICHA THEINER; MAC & WILD IMAGES COURTESY OF MAC & WILD 14 | LONDON PLANNER ‘ ‘ ++++ +++++ Additional support from Additional support Supported by Supported TIME OUT OUT TIME V&A Members gofree Members V&A #FashionedfromNature South V&A Inspiring V&A show determined to change’ incite determined show Inspiring V&A the future offashion about –andthe planet It’s Last chance to see

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Woven silk train for an evening dress, France or Britain, c. 1897–1905. Image Vee Speers © Victoria and Albert Museum, London PARADE best parade intheevent’s lengthy history. your 2019withaflourish, atthebiggestand on theperformers at thisjo Jointhethousandson a glorioussparkleofcelebration. and marching bands– allwrapped upin brilliant costumes, multicoloured inflatables 16 N LONDON’S NYD can seethegreatest show onearth Emma Levine

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LONDON PLANNER wonderful mixofpompand pageantry, greeting eachyear instyle,witha Year’s Day Parade (LNYDP)hasbeen ow inits33rd year, London’s New JOIN finds out how you finds outhow you the streetsto

yous even t tostart cheer bor In acityaseclecticLondon,where each BATTLE OFTHEBOROUGHS a Hindutempleinthecapital. Muktajeevan Swamibapa PipeBandfrom they were from Scotland,butthisistheShree wearing kiltsandplaying bagpipes, you’d assume upbeat Indiandrumwithgusto. Ifyou seeaband Dhol, whobang theriotously London Schoolof its roots intheCongo, andstudentsfrom the based KimbanguistBrass Band,whichhas performers intheparade includetheLondon- a LNYDPBorough Competition, whichhas it’s fitting thatmany ofthem participatein ough hasitsown character andidentity, To celebrate thecity’s globalculture, world. Londonisopenfor business!’ ‘London hasalways welcomed the Bob Bone,whodeviseditin1987. says theparade’s executive director ‘This willbeacelebration like noother,’ more than270 countriescall home. most diverse city, whichpeoplefrom World The themeLondonW A GLOBALDISPLAY isappropriate for theworld’s elcomes the

IMAGES © WWW.LNYDP.COM New Year’s Dayy Parade

More 0 than 20on Londongghhs boroughsg are takingking partt

been running since 1997. All are invited to participate. ‘London boroughs have been massive supporters of the parade throughoutout our history; we will give them a platform to show off their proudud heritage and kaleidoscopic culturaltural make-up,’ explains Bone. Thosee ONO THE STARTING GRID voted for by judges and the publicblic LeadingLea the parade for the share a prize fund of £50,000 – mmoreore firfirsstt timeti is a driverless car. This than £2m has been raised for ccharitiesharities grogroundbreakingund vehicle has been given since the parade started. perpermissionmiss to head down , aloalongng RegentRegent Street and Trafalgar Square, GLOBAL STARS before ending up in . The parade doesn’t just attract home-grown talent – entertainment troupes from around FULL OF HOT AIR the world join in, too. Look out for award-winning Floating above performers and spectators are RoRobertbert E FitcFitchh HigHighh ScSchoolhool MarcMarchinghing Band, dozens of giant, bespoke LNYDP balloons, created ffromrom Connecticut, which performsperforms atat all its by the team at Megaflatables. A giant bandsman AmeAmericanrican FooFootballtba home balloon represents the marching bands from games. Major nnamesa this throughout the world who have taken part over year includeinclude KalebKa Lee, the years, while the balloons of London’s black a country anandd western taxis and red telephone boxes represent two of singer wwhoho wwas a semi- the city’s best-loved icons. Another one is covered finafinalistlist onon the US TV with the flags from every country in the world. serseriesies TThe Voice, anandd MalaysianM WHERE TO WATCH magmagicianic Those lucky enough to buy a Grandstand ticket AnAndrewd Lee, can take up great viewing positions including ones who wowed at and Piccadilly (there are seven spots tthehe judges in total). But for the many thousands of others, on TV’s rest assured you can find a great place along the BBritain’s Got route where you’re just as close to the action TTalent with – and, best of all, it won’t cost you a penny. his tricks. www.lnydp.com

JANUARY 2019 | 17 7 of the best Free things to do A trip to London doesn’tdoesn’t needneed to break the bank. Give your credit card a rest with theseese fabulous free thingsthings to see and do in the capital

Sky Garden of the late artist Enjoy swoon-worthy viviewsews of the citycity’s’s ChChris Bracey. skyline from London’sn’s highehighestst IIt’s free to enter, public garden, locatedted on top anand The Rolling of the Walkie Talkieie StoStonesn Café serves building. Take foofoodd aandn drink all a stroll around weeweekend.kend. www.gods Sky Garden’s ownjunownjunkyard.co.ukkya landscaped gardens,ardens, observation decdecksks and WellcomeWeW llcom Collection Gods Own open-air terrace,ace, befbeforeore Junkyard VisitVisiti the WeWellcomell Collection near buying yourself a cocktailcktail EustonEustont StStationatio to see a bunch of at the City Garden Bar. Ticketskets aarere frefreee but marvellouslymarvelv lousl weird objects, including must be booked online in advance. an ancientancient mummy, Napoleon’s www.skygarden.london toothbrush and DarDarwin’s walking stick. Don’t leaveleave without visitingvisit the museum’s handsome Tate Modern readingading room,room, wherewh you can snuggle up with See works by art heavyweights such as Picasso, a book on a sofa.sofa www.wellcomecollection.org Rothko, Dali and Matisse without spending any money at London’s free national museum Visit a London park of modern and contemporary art. Housed London is set to become the world’s first within a former power station, the Tate Modern National Park City in spring 2019, thanks to building is arguably as awe-inspiring as the its abundance of parks, woodlands, canals

art inside it. The gallery’s permanent collection and rivers. Top picks include deer spotting SKY GARDEN COURTESY OF SKY GARDEN; DEER © ISTOCK NEON SIGN COURTESY OF GODS OWN JUNKYARD; is free to view but there are charges to see in and watching pelicans temporary exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk being fed in St James’s Park (daily at 2.30pm). For a blooming marvellous view of London, The British Museum stroll to the top of Hampstead Heath’s The world-famous British Museum in Parliament Hill, or visit Greenwich Bloomsbury exhibits works from prehistoric to Park. www.royalparks.org.uk modern times, from across the globe. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone as well as mummies Go for a walk in the Ancient Egypt collection. What’s more, Wrap up warm, slip on your the museum’s magnificent Great Court is one comfiest shoes and explore of the capital’s most Insta-worthy spots. London on foot. Take a stroll www.britishmuseum.org along the picture-pretty South Bank, or follow the towpath Gods Own Junkyard through tranquil Little Venice A photographer’s dream, this magical venue (near Paddington Station) to is jam-packed with discarded neon signage, discover a treasure trove of film props and disco balls. Based in Walthamstow, waterfront cafés and . a 20-minute Tube ride from Oxford Circus, this www.southbanklondon.com; Richmond Park neon wonderland houses the personal collection www.paddingtoncentral.com XXXX

18 | LONDON PLANNER Discover

Sky Garden

Find out more Download the Visit London app to find more free things to do in London, hot happenings, hidden gems and integrated travel maps to help you navigate the city. To download, search Visit London on App Store or Google Play, or go to www.visitlondon.com/app

JANUARY 2019 | 19 Sightseeing

Sights to behold ome of London’s biggest sightseeing in scaffolding and safety lights, however, so look secrets are in plain sight. Think it’s tricky for the substitute Ayrton lights. They’re mounted to have a special experience in the Houses on each side of the tower at the top and emit of Parliament? Think again: tours take place a warmer glow than the safety lights. eSvery Saturday (plus 2-4 Jan; p. 22), but you can The (the Central Criminal Court of also book afternoon tea every Saturday, which is England and ) is also far more accessible than served in rooms overlooking the Thames (from most people realise. It’s a public building, so you’re 12 Jan). You can beat the queues too by watching free to watch trials. You must be silent in the public Parliament in progress after dark, for free. galleries, but the sheer drama you’ll experience will If either House (Commons or Lords) is in session hold your attention. Bring ID for the airport-style during the evening, the Ayrton light shines from security and pack light: bags, electronic devices, the top of the Elizabeth Tower () and food and drink aren’t allowed. Please also note that you’re free to enter. The tower is currently covered under-14s cannot enter (www.cityoflondon.gov.uk).

£5.00 OFF SAVE £££s MULTIDAY PASSES ON ATTRACTIONS Free entry into over 70 attractions ® WITH20 |THE LONDON LONDON PLANNER PASS www.londonpass.com INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London map. Transport symbols: see Contents p. 5 for key. Prices listed here are for tickets bought in person – reductions may be available online.

St Paul’s Cathedral SIGHTSEEING ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT Observation tower with great views. Abseil to the ground or whizz down its tunnel slide. Check for times and prices. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. www..com. Station: Stratford. Off map.

BANQUETING HOUSE Exquisite painted ceiling by Peter Paul Rubens in this 17th-century building. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. www.hrp.org.uk. Station: . E8.

THE BRITISH The world’s largest library. To 19 Feb: Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: Art, Word, War. Ancient British manuscripts dating between the fifth century and 1066. Check for times and prices. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. www.bl.uk. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. C7.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. The State Rooms can be visited during exclusive guided tours. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. www.rct.uk. Station: Victoria/. F6/F7.

CHANGING THE GUARD Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the forecourt (except in wet weather; p. 10). From OUR 10am; check for dates. Free. , SECRET The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.house PICK holddivision.org.uk. Station: Victoria. F6/F7.

Just around the corner, the triforium at St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 30) is the cathedral’s The world’s last surviving tea clipper (p. 23). gallery above the nave and it’s only accessible on Daily 10am-5pm. Check for prices. King William the Triforium Tour. It’s a look behind the scenes Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. www.rmg. of the building and includes the Geometric co.uk. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Off map. Staircase, filmed for Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. This tour takes place twice DR JOHNSON’S HOUSE a month (7 & 29 Jan), so book in advance. Eighteenth-century home where Dr Johnson The Barbican cultural centre is a hulking wrote his English dictionary. Check for times and monument to concrete, with London’s prices. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 second-biggest conservatory hidden inside. 3745. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. Station: Temple. D9. The fascinating Barbican Conservatory is home to more than 2,000 species of plants and HMS BELFAST can be entered for free on Sunday afternoons Moored on the , this is Europe’s only and bank holidays. You can also book a tour surviving World War II . Daily 10am-5pm. with a gardener, or make a reservation for Adult £15.30; child £7.65. The Queen’s Walk, afternoon tea inside (www.barbican.org.uk). off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300.

GEOMETRIC STAIRCASE © ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ST PAUL’S GEOMETRIC STAIRCASE – Neil Simpson www.iwm.org.uk. Station: London Bridge. E11.

JANUARY 2019 | 21 Sightseeing

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW See the stunning art and architecture inside this Better known as , this botanical working parliament building, which is also a royal research centre contains plants from across the palace (p. 20). Tours every Sat. Advance: audio tour globe. Don’t miss the newly restored Temperate £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying House, the world’s biggest Victorian glasshouse. adult); guided tour £25.50, child £11; family Check for times and prices. Richmond, Surrey, guided tour £18.50, child free. On the day: audio TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. www.kew.org. tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per Station: Kew Gardens. Off map. paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. KIDZANIA LONDON www.parliament.uk. Station: Westminster. F8. This huge venue has everything a child could want to try out, including TV THE and animation studios, a chocolate factory and Built around 1365 to house King Edward III’s aviation academy. Check for times and prices. treasures, with ornate ceiling carvings. Sat-Sun Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. Abingdon W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. www.kidzania.co.uk. St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. www.english- Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset. heritage.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F8. THE LONDON BRIDGE EXPERIENCE & TOMBS Princess Diana’s last home. To 17 Feb: Diana: Discover the history of this 1,700-year-old site, Her Fashion Story. A collection of famous outfits, brought to life by actors. Tickets include admission dedicated to the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am- to the Tombs, located in a former plague pit. 4pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. , Check for times and prices. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. www.thelondonbridge Station: High Street Kensington. Off map. experience.com. Station: London Bridge. E10.

22 | LONDON PLANNER ‘Not even a fire could slay the Cutty Sark’ Neil Simpson, Sightseeing Editor

Did you know that the Cutty Sark (p. 21) was built to last for 30 years? You can now multiply that by five, as one of London’s best-loved ships marks its 150th birthday. The fastest tea clipper of its time, not even a fire in 2007 could slay the mighty ship, which became an even better tourist attraction as a result: now, in addition to exploring the decks, you can walk beneath the elevated hull. This year boasts a packed calendar of events, which has been devised to celebrate its milestone.

THE COCA-COLA This thrilling attraction whisks youback to the One of the world’s largest observation wheels, capital’s most perilous past, bringing it to life with spectacular views from each capsule. with costumed characters. Not for small children. Share your shots using #eyelovelondon. Joint Joint tickets available with London tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Aquarium, London Dungeon, Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and and prices. County Hall, Rd, prices. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. www.thedungeons.com. SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. www.londoneye.com.

CUTTY SARK © ROYAL MUSEUMS CUTTY SARK © ROYAL : Embankment. F8. Station: Waterloo. F8.

JANUARY 2019 | 23 Sightseeing

ZSL The world’s oldest scientific zoo, with more than 750 species. Visit the penguin beach, Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £22.73; child £17.73. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. www.zsl.org. Station: Camden Town. C6.

MADAME TUSSAUDS The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Party in the east Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. The first London Borough of Culture is www.madametussauds.com/london. Station: Waltham Forest, which means that there’s . C6. never been a better time to visit this part of London. Endorsed by the Mayor, it sees the THE MONUMENT area host events throughout 2019, beginning This stone column was built in 1677 to mark the with the Welcome to the Forest party (11-13 Jan). 1666 . Climb the 311 steps to www.wfculture19.co.uk its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult SAVE £££s ON ATTRACTIONS WITH THE ®

• Free entry into over 70 attractions • Fast track entry at busiest attractions • Free guidebook • Adult prices from £ • Pass available for 1, 2, 3 & 6 days

£5.00 OFF MULTIDAY PASSES Multiday London Passes (2, 3 and 6 day only) £5.00 To redeem this offer present this voucher at a GOLDEN TOURS visitor centre at one of the below locations: DISCOUNT Sq - 11a Road, London WC2H 0EP (inside the ticket information booth opposite ) TERMS: Offer only valid online or at Golden Tours locations. Victoria - 4 Fountain Square, 123-151 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 9SH (in Colonnade walk) Present the voucher or code at the time of purchase. Offer valid Kensington - 156 Cromwell Road, London SW7 4EF (near Gloucester Road tube station) until 25/10/20 for a maximum of 6 people per transaction. Or book online at www.londonpass.com and enter the code LONPLAN01 PHOTO COURTESY OF WALTHAM FOREST BOROUGH OF CULTURE PHOTO COURTESY OF WALTHAM

24 | LONDON PLANNER

Sightseeing

£5; child £2.50. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. www.themonument.org.uk. Station: Monument. E10.

THE O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer brand shopping outlet, as well as the latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.theo2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. A night to remember Why not spend these dark, cold evenings This baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime with an 18-tonne Victorian? No, this isn’t Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home a freak show – it’s the Great Equatorial of British naval training, with and tours. Daily Telescope at the Royal Observatory 10am-5pm. Admission free. King William Walk, (p. 28). An Evening with the Stars (11-12 SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. www.ornc.org. & 25-26 Jan) allows you to stargaze in the Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Map inset. Peter Harrison Planetarium, and look up into the universe through the telescope’s QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK massive lens. The event is led by an The site of the London 2012 Olympic astronomer who explains the star-filled and Paralympic Games, this park includes an sky. You can also step outside to see the aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit Meridian Line: right at the top of a hill, observation tower (p. 21). Please check for the views from here are astounding. sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily.

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!TXNMKHMDNQO@X@RXNTFNTRHMF.XRSDQNQ"NMS@BSKDRREQNLa  #DO@QSTQDRDUDQXLHMTSDREQNLL@INQ+NMCNMOHDQR mbnathamesclippers.com GREAT EQUATORIAL TELESCOPE © RMG EQUATORIAL GREAT

26 | LONDON PLANNER

Sightseeing Admission free. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. www.queenelizabeth olympicpark.co.uk. Station: Stratford. Off map.

THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY Stand astride the Prime Meridian, uncover the history of GMT then see old clocks (p. 26). Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg. co.uk. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark. Map inset.

SEA LIFE LONDON Huge aquarium with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above sharks. Please Acts of remembrance check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Holocaust Memorial Day (27 Jan) has Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! County evolved to commemorate the victims of global Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 genocides. The date marks the liberation of 2001. www.sealife.co.uk. Station: Westminster. F8. the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, while 2019 marks 25 years since Rwanda’s SHREK’S ADVENTURE! genocide. The Jewish Museum is holding Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks moving talks by Holocaust survivors (24 Jan). Tours’ bus to step into live fairy-tale-themed www.hmd.org.uk shows, where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Now on YouTube

LONDON Visitor video PLANNER guides For inspiring and informative advice, use our video guides to London. We have 60-second travel guides presented by comedian Jay Foreman, celebrity interviews and reviews of the latest openings, from exhibitions to shows.

Subscribe now at

youtube.com/LondonPlanner © BENEDICT JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHY JUDAICA GALLERY

28 | LONDON PLANNER

Sightseeing

Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, 18 STAFFORD TERRACE Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London The former home of the Punch cartoonist Edward Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult Linley Sambourne, his family and servants, who £27.50; child £22. Riverside Building, County lived here from 1875. Check for times, costumed Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871- tours and prices. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. 221 2837. www.shreksadventure.com. Station: T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc.gov.uk. Station: Waterloo. F8. High Street Kensington. Off map.

ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS TOWER BRIDGE EXHIBITION Landmark Palladian church with a brass-rubbing At this 19th-century landmark bridge, tour the centre, classical music concerts (some free) engine rooms and do yoga on the walkways (p. 32). and jazz. Check for events and times. Admission Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. free; brass rubbing from £4.50. Trafalgar Square, Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. www.stmartin-in- www.towerbridge.org.uk. Station: Tower Hill. E11. the-fields.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL VIDEO SPECIAL Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics and immense domes. 5 REASONS Climb up to the Whispering Gallery and further TO VISIT to the Golden Gallery (p. 20) for a classic London WESTMINSTER panorama. The crypt contains monuments to ABBEY Wren and Lord Nelson. Mon-Sat 8.30am- Watch Neil Simpson uncover historic items, 4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. St Paul’s such as Will and Kate’s marriage licence. Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. www.youtube.com/londonplanner www.stpauls.co.uk. Station: St Paul’s. D9/10.

Feel wonder fi rst hand

Members go free

Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org

30 | LONDON PLANNER Three domes. *MZI¾SSVW And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.

Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages. www.stpauls.co.uk Sightseeing

TOWER OF LONDON This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). To 6 Jan: Ice Rink. Skate next to the boundary wall (booking recommended). Check for times. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. www.hrp.org.uk. Station: Tower Hill. E11.

UP AT THE O2 A 90-minute experience taking you across the roof of The O2, with spectacular 360-degree views. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. www.theo2.co.uk. Under the bridge Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. It’s one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks, but how many people can say Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in that they’ve been inside it? Join a Behind- a high-speed lift to the viewing platform. At 309m the-Scenes tour of Tower Bridge (p. 30) up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor. and explore the 19th-century structure: There is a silent disco on Sat nights; book online. you’ll enter the towers, go into the Victorian Check for times and prices. 32 London Bridge St, Engine Rooms and then down, under the SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. www.theviewfrom Thames, to step through its huge chambers. theshard.com. Station: London Bridge. E10.

The best of London all under one spire Upstairs explore beautiful architecture, church services or a candlelit concert. Downstairs enjoy some brass rubbing, shopping and the Café in the Crypt.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Trafalgar Square +44 (0)20 7766 1100 www.smitf.org TOWER BRIDGE © STOCK

32 | LONDON PLANNER THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Enjoy an Exclusive Guided Tour of the magnificent State Rooms at Buckingham Palace

Available on selected dates 21 December 2018 – 3 February 2019 Pre-booking is highly recommended

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7300 Sightseeing

WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON the burial place of Dickens and other great writers. Explore behind the scenes of the Harry A new tower leads to The Queen’s Diamond Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour, Jubilee Galleries, telling the story of the abbey seeing the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut and Diagon through more than 300 historic objects. Check . To 27 Jan: Hogwarts in the Snow. The Great for times and prices. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. Hall is dressed for the Yule Ball. Please check for T: 020-7222 5152. www.westminster-abbey.org. times. Adult £43; child £35. Booking essential. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park. F7. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, , WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. www.wbstudiotour. RIVER TRIPS co.uk. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus. Off map. Daily guided sightseeing tours on the Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day Climb to the viewing galleries of this hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Check for magnificent arch for panoramic views cruise options, times and prices. over and the Houses Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 of Parliament. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult 0400. www.citycruises.com. £5.40; child £3.20. Apsley Way, , W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 Wembley LONDON EYE RIVER CRUISE Stadium’s 2726. www.english-heritage.org.uk. sliding roof, used Live commentary on a 40-minute Station: Hyde Park Corner. F6. in heavy rain, sightseeing river cruise. Daily covers every seat, 10.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.50; child making it the £10. Discounted joint tickets with the Consecrated in 1065, this superb abbey world’s largest London Eye available. , is the crowning and burial site of most covered stadium South Bank, SE1 7PB. www.londoneye. English monarchs, plus Poets’ Corner, com/river-cruise. Station: Waterloo. E8. SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. at the Chelsea FC Stadium Tours & Museum. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more. Visit chelseafc.com/tours for more information.

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES 02514 ICON © ISTOCK

34 | LONDON PLANNER THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Includes , Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855

9 November 2018 – 28 April 2019

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301 Sightseeing

MBNA BIG BUS TOURS The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top with departures from major London piers every double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 20 minutes. The boats leaves from 22 piers across hours. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, the capital. Please check for times and prices. 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200. cruise. Adult £37; child £19. Departure points www.mbnathamesclippers.com. vary. T: 020-7808 6753. www.bigbustours.com.

THAMESJET BIG BUS WALKING TOURS The exciting ThamesRush is a 50-minute Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk speedboat experience, with sightseeing, speed and from Trafalgar Square to . aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour Pier. Please check for times. Minimum height tickets. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. www.big Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. bustours.com. Station: Charing Cross. www.thamesjet.com. Station: Westminster. CAPITAL TAXI TOURS TOURS & GUIDED WALKS A qualified guide drives you and up to five people BEE MIDTOWN GUIDED WALKS in a taxi. Choose from tours by day or night, trips Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours outside the city and themed tours including a per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Doctor Who option to see a Tardis plus sets of Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Full the films and TV series. Check for prices. walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not FOR MORE require pre-booking. Departure points vary. INFO VISIT LONDONPLANNER.COM T: 020-7078 7077. www.bee-midtown.org.

Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips

020 7630 2039 www.goldentours.com

TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

36 | LONDON PLANNER

LP Jan SIGHTS.indd 36 04/12/2018 11:05 WINDSOR CASTLE WINDSOR

HOME OF THE ROYAL WEDDING

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7304 Sightseeing

Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621. GOLDEN TOURS BIKE TOURS www.capital taxitours.co.uk. Embark on a city tour using either a standard or electric bike. Check for prices. 11a Charing Cross GUIDED WALKS Rd, WC2H 0EP. T: 020-7341 6255. www.golden A variety of unique themed walks, focusing on tours.com. Station: . E8. everything from to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, which are GOLDEN TOURS OPEN-TOP BUS TOURS located within London’s historic Square Mile. See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Prices range from free to £12.50. Departure Essential Tour includes an English-speaking points vary. www.cityoflondonguides.com. guide, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours. Check for prices. Departure points vary. EVAN EVANS T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com. London’s oldest and largest sightseeing company, operating since 1930. Visit everywhere from THE ORIGINAL TOUR and Hampton Court Live and multilingual guided open-top Palace to Bath, plus all the well-known bus tours, where you can hop-on and London sights. Check for times. hop-off at more than 80 stops. Please Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 Jack the Ripper check for prices. 17-19 Cockspur St, 1777. www.evanevanstours.com. is thought to Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020- have been a 8877 1722. www.theoriginaltour.com. GOLDEN TOURS doctor or Station: Charing Cross. E7. butcher, as the Quality tour experiences, from day killings reveal excursions to overnight city breaks. a knowledge TOURS Check for times and prices. Departure of human One-hour tours of this Victorian points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. anatomy concert hall. Daily 10am-4pm. www.goldentours.com. Adult £14; child £7. Kensington Gore,

AT QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK

RIDE THE WORLD’S LONGEST TUNNEL SLIDE

BOOK NOW ARCELORMITTALORBIT.COM STRATFORD

Lit by ICON © ISTOCK

38 | LONDON PLANNER NEAREST TUBE STATION

Join a guided tour to take a peek inside London’s most iconic music venue, glimpse the royal areas, and discover a star-studded history of performance Sightseeing

SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. www.royalalbert SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. www.shakes hall.com. Station: South Kensington. F4. pearesglobe.com. Station: Blackfriars. E10.

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE TWIZY TOURS Tours offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy and Retiring Room and backstage as the Opera House drive through the streets of London. GPS-guided prepares for an evening performance. Check for audio tours. Prices from £29.99 per tour. Apcoa times and prices. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. 4000. www.roh.org.uk. Station: . D8. T: 07376-428363. www.twizytours.com. Station: . D5. SEE LONDON BY NIGHT TOUR Ninety-minute evening bus tours around the TOURS West End and City. Regular departures from Go behind the scenes at this famous football outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily stadium and concert venue. The tour takes you 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. through the players’ tunnel. From 10am; 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. 4744. www.seelondonbynight.com. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800- Station: Green Park. E6. The Coca-Cola 169 9933. www.wembleystadium.com. London Eye Station: Wembley Park. Off map. SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE can carry 800 Reconstruction of Shakespeare’s people on each WESTWAYS CARRIAGE HORSES original , plus Sam rotation, Experience the sights from a four- or Wanamaker Playhouse. Take the same six-seater horse-drawn carriage, with number as 11 a 30-minute tour then visit the double-decker an adjustable hood. £550 per carriage. Globe’s exhibition. Daily 9.30am-5pm. buses T: 020-8572 3155. www.westways Check for prices. 21 New Globe Walk, carriagehorses.co.uk. JACK THE RIPPER TOUR A WALK WORTH INVESTIGATING

“...this is an eerie, historical site... and, without a single prop, Richard Jones succeeds in conjuring more potent memories out of the area than from a neighbourhood full of palaces...” The Sunday Times

SEE IT ONLINE BEFORE YOU BOOK You can follow a step by step guide to our route, read the full Jack the Ripper story and watch videos on our website BEFORE you take the walk: www.rippertour.com

On our walk we show you original Victorian photographs of the streets through which you are walking as they were in 1888. We are the only Jack the Ripper Walk to limit the number of participants so booking is essential.

TO BOOK YOUR PLACE PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.RIPPERTOUR.COM or TEL: 020 8530 8443 ICON © ISTOCK

40 | LONDON PLANNER N-SIT O E C W R E E N A R M

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FREE audio guides available Sightseeing

OUT OF TOWN it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child Once royal residence of King Henry £11.70. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870- VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is 333 1181. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Station: set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi. Off map. Tudor kitchens and the grand state apartments including the Great Hall, containing a tapestry. WINDSOR CASTLE To 6 Jan: Ice Rink. Skate around The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s the grounds. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.70; oldest inhabited castle. Includes state child £11.35. East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. apartments furnished with magnificent art by T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. Station: Rembrandt, Rubens and . Changing Waterloo to Hampton Court. Off map. the Guard 11am alternate days, except Sun. To 6 Jan: A Royal Wedding: PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the couple’s The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands wedding outfits, including Meghan’s diamond at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, with and platinum bandeau tiara. Please check for the stunning backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour times and prices. Windsor, , SL4 1NJ. highlights include the state apartments and Mary, T: 0303-123 7304. www.rct.uk. Station: Waterloo Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. to Windsor & Eton Riverside. Off map. Adult £14; child £8.10. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. www.

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

LONDONTHE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDEOM rct.uk. Station: Edinburgh Waverley. Off map. JANJAJAAN 19 • LONDONPLANNER.COMLONDONPLANNER.C PLANNERR

SPECIAL #LPSELFIE ISSUE The greatest Secret bars, photo spots restaurants and sights SCOTTISH SUPPERS How to mark FOR MORE PLACES VISIT Burns Night STONEHENGE JOIN The world’s most famous stone circle, more than THE

Where to watch London’s FINDFINF YOUR PaPNew Year’s rt yDay Paradet LONDONPLANNER.COM 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins,

See By Night

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night Adult - £21, Child - £12 Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744 LONDON ® Private tours available for groups day or night WALKS Over 100 walks every week [email protected] 020 7624 3978 www.seelondonbynight.com www.walks.com IMAGE © ISTOCK

42 | LONDON PLANNER

Museums & Galleries Visit Station on a London Underground tour

OUR Hide and seek SECRET PICK here aren’t many things that personify Make an appointment with the Natural secrecy quite like the Freemasons. It is History Museum (p. 48) to visit the Tank thought that Freemasonry has its roots in Room, wherein lies Archie, an 8.62m-long medieval times, when trade guilds (societies) giant squid. Entire giant squid specimens wereT founded to forge secretive links between are rare and difficult to display but, when travelling stonemasons. English Freemasonry the museum was offered Archie in 2004, it emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at couldn’t resist. The only way to see Archie The Museum of Freemasonry, a little-known is on the Behind-the-Scenes Tour: Spirit venue inside Covent Garden’s monolithic Collection, which includes a chance to see Freemasons Hall. See displays of Masonic specimens collected by Charles Darwin. artefacts, from pottery and silver to pieces of Clearly, subterranean London is full of furniture (www.freemasonry.london.museum). secrets. Did you know that where the Strand was a Freemason, so it’s meets Surrey Street, there used to be an not surprising that he built a secret bunker Underground stop? Aldwych Station closed during World War II in which to plot the Allied in 1994 but, thanks to the route to victory. Today, it’s open to the public Museum’s Hidden London programme, you as the (p. 46), just off can tour the station’s deserted platforms, lifts Whitehall. After you’ve followed in Churchill’s and tunnels (p. 46). Book Aldwych: The End of footsteps, there’s a detailed, engaging museum the Line and other tours online. about his personal and political lives. – Neil Simpson ALDWYCH STATION COURTESY OF ALDWYCH STATION

44 | LONDON PLANNER The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

Preferred charity partner

andriuXphoto.com

JANUARY 2019 | 45 INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Reductions may be available online. Many venues offer general admission, but charge entry to temporary exhibitions. Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London Map

MUSEUMS BODY WORLDS Known around the world, this museum specialises in the human body. Sun-Thur 9.30am- 7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Adult £29; child £22. London Pavilion, 1 , W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7 Facing the past THE BRITISH MUSEUM Unrivalled collection of antiquities, from Egypt to In honour of the festival of Epiphany, . Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. The National Gallery (p. 48) hosts The Black Admission free. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. King: Power, Magnificence and the Epiphany T: 020-7323 8299. www.britishmuseum.org. (6 Jan). The tour, run by Black History Walks, Station: . D7/8. investigates the inclusion of an African king in these religious depictions. Also at the gallery, CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS Black Presence (13 Jan) looks at how African Fortified secret bunker where Sir Winston people are depicted in its collection. Churchill worked in World War II (p. 44). Daily www.blackhistorywalks.co.uk 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F7. LONDON FILM MUSEUM Bond in Motion is the official exhibition ofames J Bond vehicles that feature in the films. Daily 10am- Huge displays relating to global conflicts from 6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50.45 Wellington St, to today. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. www.londonfilm free. Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. museum.com. Station: Covent Garden. E8. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: Lambeth North. E5. LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM Exhibits include an Underground steam train, Former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton. Wed- iconic red buses and the project (p. 44). Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child £7. 12 Holland Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. Covent Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc. Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. gov.uk. Station: Kensington Olympia. Off map. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.

Living colour

There’s no denying that January can be grey, so we welcome Tate Modern’s new exhibition. Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory (from 23 Jan; p. 49) delivers a blast of colour to counteract the cloud cover. Celebrating the late French painter, it displays Bonnard’s talent for conveying emotional moments with the stroke of a brush. Born in a suburb of Paris, the artist found his style in 1912, which was later influenced profoundly by the two world wars and his wife’s ill health. Preferring to paint from memory, this is a chance to enter his glowing, dream-like world. IMAGE COURTESY OF BLACK HISTORY WALKS; PIERRE BONNARD’S THE FOURTEENTH OF JULY COURTESY OF TATE MODERN COURTESY OF TATE PIERRE BONNARD’S THE FOURTEENTH OF JULY WALKS; IMAGE COURTESY OF BLACK HISTORY

46 | LONDON PLANNER The Victoria and Albert Museum

The FREE London museums

here’s no need to spend a lot of money THE DESIGN MUSEUM Kensington to fill your time in London. Many of the The museum offers an introduction to the Tcity’s best and biggest attractions are history of contemporary design with the free completely free to enter – take a look at our display Designer Maker User, and opportunities selection of London’s top free museums. to explore the present and future of design through pop-ups and temporary exhibitions. SOUTH KENSINGTON’S MUSEUMS www.designmuseum.org During Queen Victoria’s reign, her husband Prince Albert built world-class museums right next to MUSEUM OF LONDON The City each other in South Kensington. See prehistoric This is the world’s largest urban history fossils, dinosaurs and taxidermy at the Natural museum, which has thousands of exhibits in History Museum, or head to the child-friendly nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval Science Museum with its rockets and steam displays. Its sister museum in east London, engines. The Victoria and Albert Museum the Museum of London Docklands, offers is a leading museum of art and design, covering an insight into this historic area of the capital. architecture, furniture, fashion and photography. www.museumoflondon.org.uk www.nhm.ac.uk; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; www.vam.ac.uk THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM Forest Hill This is the former home of Victorian Londoner THE BRITISH MUSEUM Bloomsbury Frederick John Horniman, who was a tea trader This iconic building houses treasures including and philanthropist. Explore his huge collection the Rosetta Stone and Egyptian mummies. of objects, specimens and artefacts from all over Travel through time and around the world with the world. There’s an aquarium, butterfly house a free paper guide in hand so you don’t miss the and a music gallery, as well as a 16-acre garden.

THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © ISTOCK; OF LONDON THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION; BE CHARGES FOR SOME SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS LONDON; THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM COURTESY OF THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM. THERE MAY highlights. www.britishmuseum.org www.horniman.ac.uk

JANUARY 2019 | 47 Museums & Galleries

‘Both are fascinated Bill Viola / Michelangelo (from 26 Jan; p. 49) with the meaning of life’ unites the contemporary video artist Bill Neil Simpson, Museums Viola with the Italian Renaissance master & Galleries Editor Michelangelo, who was born in 1475. Why? Because the RA considers them to possess Modern communication is impressive: while incredibly similar minds: both men are you’re on holiday in London, you could tweet fascinated with the meaning of life and a smiley at a space station (or us, of course, what exists beyond human mortality. @LondonPlanner). But this season, the Royal The exhibition includes 14 drawings and Academy of Arts has set up a direct line a marble relief by Michelangelo, alongside between two artists working 500 years apart. 12 of Viola’s large video installations.

MUSEUM OF LONDON THE The world’s largest urban history museum has Once used to protect the Queen’s treasures, this is thousands of exhibits. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission part of the Hard Rock Cafe and home to iconic rock free; charges for exhibitions. 150 , ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. www.museum Admission free. 150 Old , W1K 1QZ. oflondon.org.uk. Station: Barbican. D10. T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6. Get close to the objects that made history, with four VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM new galleries. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and charges for guided tours, events and exhibitions. applied art. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am- Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. 10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Greenwich. Off map. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4/5. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Astounding collections with exhibits including skeletons and fossils (p. 44). Daily 10am-5.50pm. Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing artefacts Admission free; charges for exhibitions. relating to health. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission www.nhm.ac.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4. free. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. www.wellcomecollection.org. Station: Euston. C7. THE POSTAL MUSEUM The story of the ‘first social network’, with exhibits GALLERIES exploring postal history. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult from £11; child free. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X Paintings collected by the City of London since 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. www.postalmuseum.org. the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelites. Mon- Station: Russell Square. C8. Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. SCIENCE MUSEUM T: 020-7332 3700. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Dedicated to science, technology and Station: St Paul’s/Bank. D10. medicine. To 6 Jan daily 10am-6.30pm; from 7 Jan daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. Exhibition THE NATIONAL GALLERY Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. www.science One of the world’s greatest galleries, with

museum.org.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4. works by Western European masters (p. 46). MICHELANGELO’S THE VIRGIN AND CHILD FIRE ANGEL COURTESY OF BILL VIOLA STUDIO/PHOTO © KIRA PEROV; BILL VIOLA’S LIMITED ACADEMY OF ARTS, LONDON/PHOTO © PRUDENCE CUMING ASSOCIATES ST JOHN © ROYAL WITH THE INFANT

48 | LONDON PLANNER Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission ROYAL SOCIETY OF SCULPTORS free; charges for exhibitions. Trafalgar Square, Located within Dora House, this hub for WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. www.national professional sculptors hosts a regular series of gallery.org.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E7. exhibitions. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat noon-5pm. Admission free. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY T: 020-7373 8615. www.sculptors.org.uk. One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, Station: Gloucester Road. Off map. including works of British people in paintings and photographs. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. TATE BRITAIN Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. The nation’s leading collection of British St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. art, including the largest collection of Turner. www.npg.org.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7. To 6 Jan: 2018. Works by the four finalists. Daily 10am-6pm. THE QUEEN’S GALLERY Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. www. has regular exhibitions. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult tate.org.uk. Station: Pimlico. G8. £12; child £6. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. www.royalcollection.org.uk. TATE MODERN Station: Green Park. F7. World-class, international modern art. From 23 Jan: Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS Memory. Celebrating the French painter (p. 46). Attractive 18th-century building displaying To 24 Feb: Hyundai Commission: Tania RA Collection works in all media (p. 48). Sat-Thur Bruguera. Responding to the global migration 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; crisis. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. charges for exhibitions. 6 Burlington Gardens, Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. www.royalacademy. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. www.tate. org.uk. Station: Green Park. E7. org.uk. Station: . E9.

Dr Johnson’s House

Dr Johnson’s House is a charming 300-year-old townhouse, nestled amongst a maze of courts and alleys in the historic City of London. Samuel Johnson, the writer and wit, lived and worked here in the middle of the eighteenth century, compiling his great Dictionary of the A collection of paintings and drawings English Language in the Garret. of the great artist, capturing post-war life, architecture and design at the Bank’s Use the code LP2019 for a £1 discount Printing Works at Debden, in 1957. on admission during January. 1 October – Spring 2019 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE 10am – 5pm (last entry 4.30) Monday to Friday 020 7353 3745 www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum #topolskiboe www.drjohnsonshouse.org

JANUARY 2019 | 49 Entertainment

Top secrets litter, sequins and flashing lights are part of east London. Unsure where to go, I relied and parcel of a blockbuster show, but what on an actor, leaning casually against a Tube I find more thrilling is being among the entrance while reading a 1940s newspaper, first to hear about or see a performance. to point me in the direction of a Grade GSo that’s why Secret Cinema, which hosts films I-listed warehouse. in unusual locations, is at the top of my list. Once in, I had my hair and make-up done 1940s A cinema ticket costing £79? It is steep for many, style, danced in a ballet class, played piano at but Secret Cinema is an experience. The audience the bar and watched an aerialist climb coloured don’t just watch the film, they participate in it. silks. I also witnessed actors throwing vintage As the name suggests, when the company suitcases to one another to the sound of a steam launched in 2006 (before social media took off) engine. Only then was it time to watch the film. the film was revealed on the night. Audiences Guessed yet? It was the 1948 black-and-white are now told which film will be screened weeks tragedy, The Red Shoes, about a ballerina whose before, but everything else is top secret. pumps force her to keep dancing. I first experienced Secret Cinema in 2011, Secret Cinema has also hosted One Flew Over

when emails directed me to a little-known part the Cuckoo’s Nest, set in an old psychiatric © ALICE PEPERELL THE VAULTS

50 | LONDON PLANNER INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London Map. Please check for venue’s complete listings

The Vaults MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES ALADDIN Stunning show with lyrics by Tim Rice. Check for times. Tickets £27.25-£99.75. , Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.

THE BOOK OF MORMON This satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries. Check for times. Tickets £25- £202.25. , St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. www.bookofmormon london.com. Station: Leicester Square. E7.

COMPANY On Bobbie’s 35th birthday, her friends wonder why she hasn’t got married and had kids. Check for times and prices. , Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

DIVINE PROPORTIONS To 12 Jan: A night of wining, dining and entertainment inspired by the story of Dionysus. Check for times. Over 18s. Tickets £35- £55. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. www.thevaults.london. Station: Waterloo. F8.

DREAMGIRLS To 12 Jan: A female singing trio from Chicago embark on a tumultuous journey. Check for times. Tickets £19.50-£175. , Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. OUR www.savoytheatre.org. Station: Covent Garden. E8. SECRET PICK EVERYBODY’S TALKING ABOUT JAMIE Set in Yorkshire, 16-year-old Jamie overcomes hospital, as well as 28 Days Later in an prejudice. Check for times. Tickets £20-£85. abandoned factory, during which I was chased , 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. by zombies (www.secretcinema.org). T: 0330-333 4809. www.everybodystalkingabout If tickets are sold out, then visit The Vaults, jamie.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. a hidden-away warren of tunnels beneath Waterloo Station, where only those in the HAMILTON know experience its immersive events. Award-winning hip-hop musical based on the Check out the Vault Festival (from 23 Jan) USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton. Check with around 350 shows, many of which are for times and prices. Victoria Palace, Victoria St, by unknown performers. Like Edinburgh’s SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. www.hamilton Fringe Festival, it aims to present innovative themusical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6. works at reasonable prices, so you can watch two or three shows a night in unlikely KINKY BOOTS settings. This experience is as thrilling as any To 12 Jan: A shoe factory owner West End smash (www.thevaults.london). produces knee-high boots for drag queens. Check – Sarah Riches for times. Tickets £19.50-£125. ,

JANUARY 2019 | 51 Entertainment

‘The show explores stories of creation’ Sarah Riches, Entertainment editorditor

Clowns, contortionists, acrobats and hoop dancers are some of the stars of Cirque du Soleil’s performance at the Royal Albert Hall. Totem (from 12 Jan) tells the story of evolution, from our amphibian state to humankind’s quest for flight. The circus show explores myths and stories of creation, with swamps, lakes, volcanoes and jungles depicted through stunning light and film projections. www.cirquedusoleil.com/totem

409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Station: A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Charing Cross. E8. Opera House. Check for times. Tickets £25-£175. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. LES MISÉRABLES T: 0844-412 2707. www.thephantomofthe Epic musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, opera.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. set in post-revolutionary France. Check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. Queen’s Theatre, SCHOOL OF ROCK: THE MUSICAL 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. Based on ’s film, a slacker www.lesmis.com. Station: Leicester Square. D8. tries to turn a class of top students into a rock band. Check for times. Tickets £15-£150. Gillian THE LION KING Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. Adaptation of the Disney film. Check T: 020-7452 3000. www.schoolofrockthe for times. Tickets £23-£200. Lyceum Theatre, musical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. www.thelionking.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8. THRILLER LIVE Non-stop songs and dance celebrate MAMMA MIA! Michael Jackson’s career, from Beat It to Billy A tribute to the hits of ABBA, with a feel-good Jean. Check for times. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury story set on a Greek island. Check for times. Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. www.thriller Tickets £27.25-£127.25. Novello, Aldwych, live.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. www.mamma- mia.com. Station: Covent Garden/Temple. E8. TINA: THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL Musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, MATILDA THE MUSICAL aka Tina Turner, featuring all her best-known hits. Based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets girl with magic powers. Check for times. Tickets £10-£149.50. , 9 Aldwych, £25-£122.50. , 32-34 Earlham WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. www.tinathe St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. www.matildathe musical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. musical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. WICKED MOTOWN THE MUSICAL The brilliant backstory of the witches Feel-good musical based on the story of the of Oz, with popular hits including Defying legendary Motown Records. Check for times and Gravity. Check for times. Tickets £24-£202. prices. , 210 Shaftesbury Ave, , 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. www.shaftesbury 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. www.wickedthemusical.

theatre.com. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D8. co.uk. Station: Victoria. F7. BEARD PHOTOGRAPHY CIRQUE DU SOLEIL © MATT

52 | LONDON PLANNER THE BRILLIANT ORIGINAL AT HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE 020 7087 7762 | thephantomoftheopera.com

TM © 1986 RUG Ltd. Entertainment PLAYS THE COMEDY ABOUT A BANK ROBBERY Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond in this hilarious comedy. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. , 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. www.thecomedyaboutabank robbery.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

THE CURIOUS INCIDENT OF THE DOG IN THE NIGHT-TIME An autistic boy, who is misunderstood by most people, searches for a missing dog. Based on the Home and away book by Mark Haddon. Check for times and prices. , 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. When American airspace closed in the wake T: 0844-871 7630. www.piccadillytheatre.org. of 9/11, what happened to the planes already Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. in flight? Watch the award-winning musical Come from Away at the Phoenix Theatre FAULTY TOWERS: (from 30 Jan) to find out. Gander, on the THE DINING EXPERIENCE Canadian island of Newfoundland, has a Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy population of 10,000 people and 550 hotel based on the cult TV series. Please check for rooms, yet the community pulled together times. Tickets £67.50-£74.50. Radisson Blu to welcome 6,579 passengers. Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0844-871 T: 0845-154 4145. www.faultytowers-uk.com. 7629. www.comefromaway.com Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7. COME FROM AWAY © HELEN MAYBANKS COME FROM AWAY

54 | LONDON PLANNER THE MUSICAL PHENOMENON

lesmis.com | 0844 482 5151 Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge QUEEN’S THEATRE TM © 1986 CMOL Entertainment

HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD THE WOMAN IN BLACK The adaptation of JK Rowling’s new tale. Check A spooky story, based on a Gothic thriller, for returns. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, about a lawyer who visits a remote house W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. www.harrypotter to check a woman’s estate. Check for times. theplay.com. Station: Leicester Square. D7. Tickets £21.50-£52. , Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. www.thewoman THE MOUSETRAP inblack.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. A murderer strikes at a party in ’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD and prices. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H THE JAZZ CAFÉ 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. www.the-mousetrap. 2-3, 14 & 18 Jan: Alexander O’Neal. 4-5 Jan: co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. D7. Transatlantic Ensemble Presents: Being Bowie. 11 Jan: Aswad. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844- THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG 847 2514. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. Station: Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging Camden Town. Off map. a murder mystery. Check for times. Tickets £20-£72. , 3-5 Catherine St, THE O2 WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. www.theplaythat 18-19 Jan: The 1975. 26 Jan: Snow Patrol. goeswrong.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. 27 Jan: Davido. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk. WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. Based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama, it is staged in a former courtroom. Check for times. RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB Tickets £10-£79.50. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, 1-4 Jan: Incognito. 7-9 Jan: Sarah Jane Morris. SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. www.witnesscounty 16-19 Jan: The Revival feat Cory Henry, Taron hall.com. Station: Waterloo. F8. Lockett, Sarah Sharkey. 23-24 Jan: Igor Butman

DON’T MISS MOTOWN! FINAL WEST END PERFORMANCES SPRING 2019

Motown™ is a trademark of UMG Recordings, Inc. registered in the U.S. and other countries, and is used under license.

56 | LONDON PLANNER ‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW POST

THE MUSICAL

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H London’s major theatre and music venues can be 24 ...... A1 40 St Martin’s ...... A2 located on the map above using the grid reference 25 Lyceum ...... B3 41 Savoy ...... B2 in the key below. 26 Lyric ...... B1 42 Shaftesbury ...... A2 27 Menier Chocolate 43 Shakespeare’s Globe... D Visit London has a secure online booking service Factory ...... D 44 ...... B3 28 National Theatre ...... C3 45 Theatre Royal for all major current and forthcoming theatre 29 Noël Coward ...... B2 Drury Lane ...... A3 productions. 30 Novello ...... A3 46 Theatre Royal 31 Old Red Lion ...... E Haymarket ...... B1 To book tickets go to www.visitlondon.com 32 Old Vic ...... C4 47 Trafalgar Studios ...... C2 33 Palace ...... A1 48 Vaudeville ...... B2 Key to Theatres 34 Phoenix ...... A1 49 Victoria Palace ...... F 35 Piccadilly ...... B1 50 Waterloo 1 Adelphi ...... B2 13 Duchess ...... A/B3 36 Playhouse ...... C2 East Theatre ...... C4 2 Ambassadors ...... A2 14 Duke of York’s ...... B2 37 Prince Edward ...... A1 51 Wyndham’s ...... B2 3 Aldwych ...... A3 15 Fortune ...... A2/3 38 Prince of Wales ...... B1 52 ...... C4 4 Apollo Theatre ...... B1 16 Garrick ...... B2 39 Queen’s ...... B1 5 Apollo Victoria ...... F 17 Gielgud ...... A1 Key to Dance, Music and Multi-arts Venues 6 Arts ...... B2 18 ...... A2 7 ...... G 19 Harold Pinter ...... B1 53 Barbican Hall ...... G 58 St James’s Piccadilly 8 Cambridge ...... A2 20 Her Majesty’s ...... B1 54 ...... B2 church ...... B1 9 ..B2 21 King’s Head Theatre ..E 55 Peacock ...... A3 59 St Martin-in-the-Fields 10 Criterion ...... B1 22 Leicester Square 56 Ronnie Scott’s ...... A1 church ...... B2 11 Dominion ...... A1 Theatre ...... B1 57 Royal Opera 60 Sadler’s Wells ...... E 12 .... A2 23 ...E House ...... A2 61 Southbank Centre ...... C3

58 | LONDON PLANNER IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Women at work

Pull on your cowboy boots! The ‘Queen of Country’, Dolly Parton, has inspired a new stage show, 9 to 5 The Musical, at the Savoy Theatre (from 28 Jan). Based on the 1980 hit comedy film, this also features her original music and lyrics. Three women including Violet (Louise Redknapp, above) have had enough of their sexist boss, Franklin (Brian Conley) and plot to kidnap him. Savoy Court, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. www.thesavoytheatre.com

Quintet. 28-30 Jan: Ruby Turner. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.

DANCE To 15 Jan: The Nutcracker. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.uk. Station: Covent Garden. D8.

SADLER’S WELLS To 27 Jan: Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake. From 10 Jan: London International Mime Festival. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Angel. Off map.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES A CHRISTMAS CAROL To 19 Jan: ’ classic festive tale. Suitable for over-eights. Check for times and prices. , The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. www.oldvictheatre.com. Station: Waterloo. F9. LAST MINUTE THE SNOWMAN To 6 Jan: Classic winter tale about a boy who & DISCOUNT makes friends with a snowman. Check for times and prices. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. THEATRE TICKETS T: 020-7863 8222. www.sadlerswells.com.

LOUISE REDKNAPP COURTESY OF 9 TO 5 THE MUSICAL Station: Holborn. D8.

JANUARY 2019 | 59 Sport New York Knicks L hoping to recover from a s a hoping torecover from featuring the7ft3inLatvian,Kristaps Porzinģis, appearance intheLondonGame,itsteam Beal andJohnWall. Wizards, featuring ‘All-Star’ guards Bradley This isthedebutappearance here for the fans from allover theworld. to sold-outvenues andbringingtogether and whatasuccessstoryit’s been,playing consecutive year oftheNBALondonGame York Knicks (17Jan; p. 61).Thisistheninth the Washington Wizards takingontheNew match featuring two topbasketball teams: the NBAGlobal Game,welcoming aleague hosting TheO2continuesitstradition of He shoots,hescores at majorvenues inthecity. American sportsinone-offmatches games from theUS,showcasing top ondon loves theconceptofregular season

The Knicks makes itsthird erious injury. – Lions take ontheBristolFlyers (4Jan; p. 61). enjoy somehome-grown astheLondon talent, NBA game, headtotheCopper Box Arena to Ifyou aren’t abletosnapupaticket for the to hostatleasttwo NFLgames. Tottenham Hotspur’s newstadiumwhichisdue a decade. 2019promises theexciting additionof American football matchesfor more than Inadditiontobasketball, Londonhashosted explains NBAcommissionerAdam Silver. experiencetransported toEurope,’All-Star have grown intotheequivalent ofan NBA time thegames andthesurrounding festivities in Londonfor nearlyadecade, andover that ‘We’ve beenplaying regular-season match-ups have enjoyed decentpre-season games. Bothteams, playing intheEasternConference,

Emma Levine Emma

SECRET SECRET

PICK OUR OUR

NEW YORK KNICKS © GETTY IMAGES INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London Map. For more sports events and information, see www.visitlondon.com/events

WATCH Tour’ for temporary address. T: 0344-844 0102. BASKETBALL www.tottenhamhotspur.com. 17 Jan: NBA Global Game: Washington Wizards vs New York Knicks (p. 60). The O2, Peninsula 2 Jan: West Ham United vs Brighton. 12 Jan: Square, SE10 0DX. www.theo2.co.uk. T: 0844-856 West Ham United vs Arsenal. , 0202. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 020-8548 2748. www.whufc.com. 4 Jan: London Lions vs Flyers (p. 60). Copper Box Arena, Queen Elizabeth Olympic TOURS & MUSEUMS Park, E20 3AB. T: 020-3288 1800. www.london ARSENAL STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM lions basketball.co.uk. Station: Stratford. Off map. Self-guided audio tours and Legends Tours. Please check for times. Adult £23; child £15. FOOTBALL Museum only £10; child £7. Drayton Park, N5 1BU. Premier League fixtures (subject to change): T: 020-7619 5000. www.arsenal.com. Station: 1 Jan: Arsenal vs . 19 Jan: Arsenal vs Holloway Road/Arsenal/. Off map. Chelsea. 29 Jan: Arsenal vs City. Emirates Stadium, see ‘Arsenal Stadium Tour’ for address. CHELSEA FC STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM Guided tour and Legends tours. Check for times. 2 Jan: Chelsea vs Southampton. 12 Jan: Chelsea Adult £24; child £15. Stamford Bridge, Fulham Rd, vs Newcastle. Stamford Bridge, see ‘Chelsea FC SW6 1HS. T: 0371-811 1955. www.chelseafc.com. Stadium Tour’ for address. Station: Fulham Broadway. Off map.

13 Jan: Tottenham Hotspur vs LORD’S TOUR & MCC MUSEUM United. 30 Jan: Tottenham Hotspur vs Watford. Guided tour of the home of cricket. Check for dates Wembley Stadium, see ‘The Wembley Stadium and times. Booking essential. Tour £24; child £15. St John’s Wood Rd, NW8 8QN. T: 020-7616 8595. www.lords.org. Station: St John’s Wood. C4. ‘This tournament KIA OVAL TOUR has a rich history’ Tour the cricket ground. Check for times. Adult £20; Emma Levine, Sport Editor child £10. , SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. www.kiaoval.com. Station: Oval. Off map. The world’s top 16 snooker players arrive for the Dafabet Masters (13-20 Jan) at TWICKENHAM WORLD RUGBY . This tournament, which MUSEUM & STADIUM TOUR has a rich history dating back to 1975, has The world’s largest stadium dedicated to rugby. been one of the most popular in the calendar. Check for times and days. Adult £25; child £15. Watch Ronnie O’Sullivan (below) and , Whitton Rd, Twickenham, China’s top player Ding Junhui as they TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. www.worldrugby hope to grasp the title from last year’s museum.com. Station: Twickenham. Off map. winner, Northern Ireland’s Mark Allen. www.alexandrapalace.com THE WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR Go behind the scenes at the UK’s largest sports venue. Tours daily 10am-4pm; check for closures. Adult £19; child £12. Olympic Way, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. www.wembleystadium.com. Station: Wembley Park. Off map.

WIMBLEDON TENNIS MUSEUM & TOUR The tour includes Centre Court. Daily 10am- 5pm. Adult £25; child £15. All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. www.wimbledon.com. Station:

RONNIE O’SULLIVAN COURTESY OF DAFABET MASTERS COURTESY OF DAFABET RONNIE O’SULLIVAN Southfields. Off map.

JANUARY 2019 | 61 ©VisitBritain/Andrew Pickett Shopping www..com. Station: BondStreet. D6. 400 Oxford T: St,W1A1AB. 0800-123 400. Denim Studios, whichstocksnumerous brands. fashion, beautyandfood, andishometothehuge One ofthew Station:andmason.com. Green Park. E7. W1A 1ER.T: 0845-3001707. www.fortnum the DiamondJubilee Tea Salon.181Piccadilly, for itsfood hall,hampers Don’t andchina. miss F DEBENHAMS This f SELFRIDGES Station: Marble Arch. B4. T: 020-7935 7954.www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St,W1C1AP(andbranches). cosmetics atthistrustednationalinstitution. Established in17 FORTNUM &MASON www.debenhams.com. Station: Oxford Circus. B4. St, W1C1JG(andbranches). T: 0844-561 6161. trusted departmentstore chain. Behind amock LIBERTY www.johnlewis.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D6. St, W1A1EX(andbranches). T: 020-7629 7711. to homeware across seven floors. British institutionsellseverything from hats Established mor JOHN LEWIS Station: . F5. SW1X7XL.T:Rd, 020-7730 1234.www.harrods.com. restaurants andagreat food hall. top fashion labelsandjewellery, plusmany bars, Br MARKS &SPENCER Station:london.com. Oxford Circus. B5. St, W1B5AH.T: 020-7734 1234.www.liberty It hasachocolateshop, too. store isfamed for itshaberdashery andfabrics. MAJOR STORES ind great fashions andhomeware inthis owse deliciousfood, furniture, clothingand amous departmentstore isgreat for orld’s mostfamous stores includes -Tudor exterior, thisrespected

e than150years ago, this 07, thishistoricstore isfamed

Great Marlborough 87-135 Brompton 334-348 Oxford 300 Oxford plus activities This hugemallhasluxury andhigh-street shops, co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Mapinset. SE10 0DX. T: www.iconattheo2 020-84632000. on designerbrands. TheO2,Pensinsula Square, This newoutletmalloff ICON AT THEO2 Village coach from Londonhotels. Off map. to Bicester Village.Bus:Shopping Express www.bicestervillage.com. Station: Marylebone Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD.T: 01869-323200. year round. Pleasecheckfor times. Bicester, fashion brands, atpricesthatare reduced all wher A shoppinghaven inOxfordshire’s countryside, BICESTER VILLAGE Bush. Mapinset. Bush. www.uk.westfield.com.2300. Station: Shepherd’s W12 7GF(andStratford branch). T: 020-3371 MALLS &FACTORY OUTLETS Painting thetown www.londonartfair.co.uk (17 Jan) for discussionsandtours. the centre stays openlateonThursday best oftoday’s talentbehindthelens, while enjoy Photo50 originals andprints. Photography fans will to eitherbuyorjustbrowse, asyou’ll findboth modern artenthusiasts. Thisisagreat chance Business DesignCentre intoahaven for The LondonArt Fair e more than160boutiquesshowcase , cafés and restaurants. , thefair’s annuallookatthe

ers year-round discounts (16-20 Jan) turns the (16-20 Jan) turnsthe

Ariel Way, FIND YOUR YOUR FIND

TILT I, 2018 © VANESSA JACKSON RA COURTESY OF ADVANCED GRAPHICS LONDON INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London Map. Normal opening hours are approximately 10am-6pm (Sun 11am-5pm); some stores open until late on Thur

London Designer Outlet

OUR SECRET Trade secrets PICK f you’re feeling the pinch after a season of selling them. At The Box, those with a nose for overindulgence, it’s always good to make a bargain head to its regular pop-ups and sample a saving, or find a one-of-a-kind piece. Grab sales with local designers’ pieces (www.truman your shopping bag and join us on a hunt for brewery.com; www.thebox-london.com). bargainsI and an unusual shopping experience. You will be pleased to find pieces from East London is a hub for low-cost fashions. emerging designers. The Hackney Shop hosts Hackney Walk is a luxury outlet offering great pop-up shops each week from local designers, discounts on leading fashion labels; find stylish at discounted prices. At Spitalfields Market, coats at Burberry, designer bags at Anya head to its Saturday Style Market to find edgy, Hindmarch and the latest sports gear at the unusual fashions from independent designers. huge outlet. It even boasts the first store Charity stores offer bargains and vintage from MatchesFashion.com, with a selection of treasures. Shop in a well-to-do area where off-season styles www.hackneywalk.com( ). high-end items are donated, such as Sample sales can be held in everywhere from British Red Cross on Old Church Street off glamorous hotels to stark warehouses for two or King’s Road or Oxfam in Gate three days of huge discounts on designer labels. (www.redcross.org.uk; www.oxfam.org.uk). There are special events at venues including And, if you are looking for prices all The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane, year round, visit the London Designer Outlet which hosts fairs such as Love Not Landfill. in Wembley Park, where you will get up to 70 This regular pop-up shop helps prevent 11 per cent off accessories, clothes, food and drink. million items of clothing going into landfills by – Emma Levine LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET COURTESY

JANUARY 2019 | 63 Shopping T Music merchandise shopsellingrock memorabilia, IT’S ONLY ROCK‘N’ROLL www..com. Station: Oxford Circus. D7. 188-196 Regent St,W1B5BT. T: 0371-704 1977. dream of. Italsohasentertainers incostume. seven floors sellingeverything thatachildcould One ofthew HAMLEYS collectionshop.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6. SW1W0PP.Rd, T: 020-7839 1377. www.royal 64 Station: Piccadillycom. Circus. E7. branches). T: 020-34051246.www.japancentre. of ceramics. 35bPanton St,SW1Y4EA(and hot dishes Seek outthissubterranean shopfor sushi, JAPAN CENTRE nrolllondon.co.uk. Station: BakerStreet. A3. St, NW15RT. T: 020-7224 0277. www.itsonlyrock to corgislipper Pick uproyal souvenirs, from teasetsandtiaras BUCKINGHAM PALACE SHOP SPECIALIST STORES -shirts, autographs, photosandmore.

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LONDON PLANNER , Japanese ingredients andarange orld’s biggesttoyshops, with s andcharms.

7 Buckingham Palace

230 Baker 230 Baker Station: Oxford Circus. B5. T: www.webuilt-thiscity.com. 020-36429650. Quirky souvenir shop. WE BUILT THISCITY 3511. www.twinings.co.uk. Station: Temple. D9. in London.216Str Find teasandinfusionsatoneoftheoldestshops TWININGS blowing.co.uk. Station: D8. LondonBridge. SE1 3UD.T: 020-7403 www.londonglass 2800. br Watch glassobjectsbeingcreated asyou LONDON GLASSBLOWING STUDIO london.co.uk. Station: BakerStreet. A3. NW1 6XE.T: 020-7935 4464.www.beatlesstore London’s onlyBeatlesshop. LONDON BEATLES STORE owse piecesfor sale.

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JANUARY 2019 | 65 Eating out Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour

OUR SECRET Dining with a difference PICK hen Alice fell down a rabbit hole into signs to bamboozle passers-by. Look left, Wonderland, little did she know she’d look right, then scurry down to the candlelit find magic mushrooms, jam tarts and basement. Dine on skewers of tuna and ‘drink me’ potions. The same could be pineapple, soft-shell crab tacos with chipotle Wsaid of London: peer behind the shop windows cream, and scallop ceviche with hibiscus and and down alleys to enter an unexpected world. pomegranate (www.labodeganegra.com). If a friend asks me to keep a secret, I’ll take it These restaurants don’t have a sign and to the grave. But when I find a secret spot in some don’t even have an address – like London, I can’t help but share it. London’s dining The Civilisations Supperclub. Run by scene is big and bold, but it’s also about the small a Syrian couple, each supperclub is held and hidden, which is why I’m sharing these. in a new venue and the menu, music and Stroll through Chinatown and you could miss storytelling are themed (www.sakbeh.co.uk). Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour as it Gremio de , meanwhile, serves doesn’t have a sign (look for the staff member tapas in a crypt beneath St Matthew’s Church outside a jade-coloured door). Its three rooms are in Brixton – its candlelit, arched ceilings make spread across two floors; every time I’ve been I’ve it ideal for a date. Share Spanish omelette, sat somewhere new and had a unique experience. serrano ham croquettes and Padrón peppers Its dimly lit rooms are decorated with Chinese alongside charcuterie, cheese, olives and tiger wallpaper and red lanterns, while pink tasseled prawns (www.gremiodebrixton.com). lampshades and suitcases give it a 1920s vibe Visit one of these venues and, when you (www.opiumchinatown.com). return home and friends ask you what the The Mexican restaurant and bar La Bodega highlight of your trip was, I bet you’ll say: Negra is close by in Soho. It’s just as hidden, ‘Can you keep a secret?’ disguised as a sex shop with neon ‘Peep Show’ – Sarah Riches PEONY BAR COURTESY OF OPIUM COCKTAIL & DIM SUM PARLOUR PEONY BAR COURTESY OF OPIUM COCKTAIL

66 | LONDON PLANNER , LONDON

MODERN DINING ON THE WATER

GLASSROOM.LONDON INFOINFO To dial the UK,UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Map: refers to the gridgrid coordinates on our Central London Map.Map. Prices shown are forfor a three-course meal. £: up to £20 per person. ££: £20-£40 per pperson.erson. ££££££:: ££4040 or more pperer ppersonerson

AMERICASAMERICAS CCAFÉAFÉ IN THE CCRYPTRYPT BUBBA GGUMPUMP SSHRIMPHRIMP CO. HeartHeartyy ddishesishes anandd hhotot ddessertsesserts serveservedd in tthehe This fun restaurant serves seafooseafood,d, ribs and othotherer church’s 18th-centur18th-centuryy vaults. DaiDaily,ly, check for AmericanAmerican classics. DailDailyy L & D. ££. 1133 CoventryCoventry St, times.times. £. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner ofof W1D 7AB. T: 020-3763 5288. www.bubbagumpwww.bubbagump TrafalgarTrafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. shrimp.co.uk. Station: PiccadillPiccadillyy Circus. E7. www.smitf.org.www.smitf.org. Station: CharingCharing Cross. D7.D7.

HAM HOLY BURGERBURGER CHENESTON’S RESTAURANT DineDine on gourmet burgersburgers in tthishis ddepartmentepartment store ClassicClassic EEnglishnglish cuisine in a tratraditionalditional diningdining eaterie. DaiDailyly L & D.D. £. John Lewis, 300 OxOxfordford room. DailyDaily B, L & D. £££. TheThe MilestoneMilestone Hotel,Hotel, St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7499 8296. www.hamholywww.hamholy KensingtonKensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. burburger.co.uk.ger.co.uk. Station: OxOxfordford Circus. B5. www.milestonehotel.com. Station: HighHigh Street Kensington.Kensington. Off map.map. HARD ROCK CAFE London’London’ss original burger jjoint.oint. DailyDaily ForFor a SSTT PANCRAS BRASSERBRASSERIEIE L & D. ££. 115050 Old Park LaLane,ne, W1K 11QZ.QZ. tratraditionalditional AArtrt Deco-styleDeco-style rrestaurantestaurant in the T: 020-7514020-7514 1700.1700. www.hardrock.com. ttasteaste of London, Eurostar terminal. DailyDaily B, L & D. Station: HydeHyde Park Corner. E8E8.. trytry pie andand ££-£££.££-£££. St Pancras International,International, mmash,ash, or jjelliedellied N1CN1C 4QL.4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. eels and parsleyparsley OBLIXOBLIX liquorliquor www.searcys.co.uk.www.searcys.co.uk. Station: King’sKing’s Contemporary cuisine in The Shard. CrossCross SStt Pancras. C8.C8. DailyDaily L & DD.. £££. 31 St Thomas StSt,, SSE1E1 9RY. T: 020-020-72687268 66700.700. www.oblixrestaurant.cowww.oblixrestaurant.com.m. SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE & BARR Station: London Bridge.Bridge. E10E10.. TTop-qualitop-qualityy British steaks and homemade burgers,burgers, plupluss sharing plplatters.atters. Daily L & D. ££. PLANET HOLLYWOOD 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB ((andand branchbranch).). A film-inspiredfilm-inspired diningdining experience. L & D T: 020-7352 0088. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk.www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. (bar to 1am1am).). ££. 57-60 HaHaymarket,ymarket, SW1Y 4QX. Station:Station: PiccadillyPiccadilly Circus. E7. T: 020-7287 1000. www.planethollywoodwww.planethollywood london.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. CHINESECHINESE CHAICHAI WU RAINFORESTRAINFOREST CCAFEAFE ContemporaryContemporary Chinese dishes in Harrods. DailyDaily BBusyusy all-all-dadayy dining in a mock rainforest jungle. L;L; Mon-Mon-SatSat D (t(too 88pm).pm). £££. HHarrods,arrods, 87-135 DailyDaily L & D. ££. 2020 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. BBromptonrompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 88888888.. T: 020-7434 3111. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk.www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. wwww.chaiwu.co.uk.ww.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge.Knightsbridge. F5. Station: PiccadillyPiccadilly Circus. E3. GASTROPUBSGASTROPUBS BRITISHBRITISH BEARBEAR & STAFF K AQUAAQUA SHARD ClassicClassic comfort food such as soup, pies or scampi, Great views from The Shard. DailyDaily B, L & D. withwith caskcask ale. DailyDaily B, L & D. £-££. 10-12 Bear SSt,t, £££.£££. 31 St Thomas StSt,, SE1 9RY.9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. WC2HWC2H 7AX.7AX. T: 020-7321020-7321 0814. www.nicholsonswww.nicholsons

www.aquashard.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. E10.E10. pubs.co.uk.pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester SqSquare.uare. E7. ICON © ISTOCK ISTOC

20%20% DIDISCOUNTSCOUNT OFFOFF FINAL BILL WHEN A MAIN MEAL IS PURCHASEDPURCHASED PER PERSONPERSON

68 | LONDON PLANNEPLANNERR THETHE PPORCUPINEORCUPINE This historihistoricc ppubub has a pie menu. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D.D. £-££-££.£. 4488 CharingCharing Cross Rd,Rd, WC2HWC2H 0BS. T: 020-7379020-7379 9855. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk.pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7/E7/E8.E8.

WHITE HORSE A pubpub withwith originaloriginal signssigns,, serving pies andand steak.steak. Mon-Sat BB,, L & DD;; Sun L & D. £-££. 16 NewburghNewburgh St, W1F 7RY. T: 020-7494 9748. www.nicholsonswww.nicholsons pubs.co.uk.pubs.co.uk. Station: OxfOxfordord Circus. DD7.7. CHOOSECHOOSE FROMFRROM 1616 NICHOLSON’SNICHOLSON’S WHITE SWANSWAN PUBSPUBS LOCATLOCATEDED IN CENTRAL LONLONDONDON This traditional serves sharingsharing dishes and AROUNDAROUND THE WEST END: fish and chipschips.. Sun L & D. £-££. 1144 New RowRow,, WWC2NC2N 4LF. T: 020-3077020-3077 1129. www.nicholsonswww.nicholsons AARGYLLRGYLL ARMSARMS COAL HOLHOLEE pubpubs.co.uk.s.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8.E8. KIKINGSNGS HEHEADAD WEWELLINGTONLLINGTOON INDIANINDIAN BEAR AND STAFSTAFFFF CROWN AMAYAAMAYA Michelin-starrMichelin-starreded dishes prepared in an open PPORCUPINEORCUPINE WHITE HORSEHORSES kitchen. DailDailyy L & D. £££££.£. Halkin ArcadArcade,e, CACAMBRIDGEMBRIDGE CLCLARENCEARENCEE 1199 Motcomb St,St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. PRINPRINCESSCESS OOFF WAWALESLES WHITE LILIONON www.amaya.biz. Station: Knightsbridge. F6. CLACHACLCLACHANACHAN DOGDOG ANDAND DUDUCKUCKUCK CCHUTNEYHUTNEY MMARYARY THREE GREYHOUGREYHOUNDSNDS WHITE SWANSWAAN CuisineCuisine ffromrom seven Indian reregionsgions in a charming setting. Daily L & D. ££. 7373 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. www.chutney FFOROR PREPRECISECISE LLOCATIONSOCATIONS mary.com. Station: Green Park. E7. OF EACH PUB PLPLEASEEEAASE VISIT GAYLORD RESTAURANT WWW.NICHOLSONSPUBS.CO.UKWWW.NICHOLSONSPUBS.CO.UK AAward-winninward-winningg ddishesishes in one of London’s oldesoldestt Indian eateries. Daily L & D. ££. 79-8179-81 MortimerMortimer IT IISS ADADVISABLEVISABLE TOO BOOKBOOK BY St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. www.gaylordwww.gaylord CALLINGCALLING THTHEE PUPUBB DIDIRECTLY.RECTLY. london.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.D7.

MASALAMASALA ZONEZONE EnjoyEnjoy vibrantvibrant street food and tasttastyy thalis. DailDailyy L & D. ££££.. 48 Floral StSt,, WWC2EC2E 9DA. T: 020-7379 01010101 (and(and branches).branches). www.masalazone.com. Station: Covent Garden. D6.

TermsTerms and Conditions appapply:ly: Not valid in conjunctionconjuncction with anyany other offer or discount. Valid for groups of up to 6. Only valid onon the standardstandard menumenu and doesn’t include childrens’ menus. A mainmain coursecourse perp personperp son must be purchasedpurchased in order for discount to be processed.processed. Discount isis applicableapplicable to food and drink. Valid dailydaily throughthrouggh to 30/11/2018.30/1331/01/2019.1/201/220201818.8 SubjectSubject to availabilityavailability on the day.day. Management maymay suggestsuggest nearbynearby aalternativelternative pubs if the dinindiningg rooms are fullfull..

JANUARYJANUARY 20120199 | 69 Eating Out

MINT LEAF 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA. T: 020-8115 7091. Contemporary Indian dishes. Mon-Fri & Sun L; www.ask italian.co.uk. Station: Paddington. D4. daily D. £££. Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. www.mintleaflondon.com. VERDI ITALIAN KITCHEN Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Italian classics in the Royal Albert Hall. Tue-Sun L & D. ££. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. VEERASWAMY T: 020-7070 4401. www.royalalberthall.com. Michelin-starred dishes. Daily L & D. £££. 99 Station: South Kensington. F4. Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. www.veera swamy.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. JAPANESE BENIHANA INTERNATIONAL Griddle-cooked dishes at your table. Daily L & D. THE CAVENDISH £££. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH. T: 020-7494 2525. Elegant brasserie. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 35 New www.benihana.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. www. 35newcavendish.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D6. SAKAGURA Izakaya-style Japanese ‘pub’. Daily L & D. ££. THE TERRACE 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. www. Enjoy burgers and Italian dishes. Daily B, L & D. sakaguralondon.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. ££. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. www.amba-hotel.com. RIVERSIDE Station: Charing Cross. E8. BATEAUX LONDON See London’s sights on a river cruise. Daily L & D; ITALIAN Sun jazz with three-course L. £££. Embankment ASK ITALIAN Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. www.bateaux Classic pizza and pasta dishes. Daily L & D. ££. london.com. Station: Embankment. E8.

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Awarded: Authentic Thai Food – Ministry of Commerce, Thailand EL PIRATA 4 stars – For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the Master Chef UK spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Thai Select Award – Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Department of Export Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste Promotion, Ministry of Commerce, Thailand of the Mediterranean. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses 1 Bedfordbury, the fi nest Spanish produce, including jamón Covent Garden, ibérico. Celebrity fans include Brian May and London WC2N 4BP 020 7379 4580 Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous behind ENO, Coliseum, in their praise of this ‘Spanish gem’. www.thaipot.biz Ë Charing Cross Station (Covent Garden exit) 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair, W1 7AQ. 4 stars restaurant at 2 stars price! 020 7491 3810/020 7409 1315. – food and service others talk about – www.elpirata.co.uk. Green Park. Map C5

70 | LONDON PLANNER TWO LIGHTS © ANTON RODRIGUEZ www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Green Park. E6. St,W1J7AQ. T:5-6 Down 020-7491 3810. and fresh seafood. Mon-Fri L&D;SatD. ££. dock Mediterranean cuisineaboard apermanently RS HISPANIOLA www.citycruises.com. Station: Westminster. F8. Westminster Pier, SW1A2JR.T: 020-7740 0400. Boarding Westminster Pierat7.30pm. £££. Choose authentic tapasincludingcur EL PIRATA www.hispaniola.co.uk. Station: Embankment.E8. Embankment, WC2N5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. Dinner withentertainment LONDON SHOWBOAT www.thaipot.biz. Station:D8. CoventGarden. £. 1Bedfordbury, WC2N4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. including massamancurry. L&D. Mon-Sat This popularspotoff THAI POT www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria. F6. 7EQ (andHarrods branch). T: 020-7823 1888. Daily L&D Fine dining withdishesfrom allover Thailand. MANGO TREE SPANISH EASTSOUTH ASIAN 0076. www.twolights.restaurant T: 020-3976 28 Kingsland E28DA. Rd, dulse (algae)andeggyolk. broccoli andyuzu;mushroom with cocoa beansandfigs;stuffedguineafowl, creations includinggrouse , Lovecky leadsinthekitchen, withunsual Two Lights. AmericanheadchefChase Clove ClubinShoreditch hasjustopened The teambehindtheMichelin-starred Leading light ed restaurant ship. DailyL&D. ££. . ££-£££.46Grosvenor Place, SW1X

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71 Nightlife Tramp

OUR SECRET Hidden depths PICK ince London’s oldest private members’ club, ladies, if you want to be sociable, bartenders Tramp, opened in Mayfair, Frank Sinatra can make introductions (www.mlkhny.com). and The Beatles have swung by, while Joan The Luggage Room in Mayfair is a former Collins and both held their luggage room which has been transformed into Swedding receptions there. Now, as it turns 50, a 1920s-style bar with live jazz and old-school I take a look at London bars that are tricky to cocktails. Find London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor get into – but not impossible. Square near , then look for a black door London has bars hidden behind mirrors, labelled ‘Luggage Entrance’. Once knocked, a bookcases and wardrobes, venues that require shutter is drawn back in an ‘open sesame’ moment, secret handshakes and codes and drinking spots revealing leather banquettes, a dark wooden bar that demand a personal invitation. Yes, finding and a marble staircase (www.luggageroom.co.uk). some can be as hard as cracking the Enigma code, If you’re in a gathering, then book Nineteen and getting in as challenging as accessing M15, Eighty Something bar behind Euston Station, but once in, the smug factor makes it worthwhile. which is suitable for groups of 15 or more. The One of my favourite hidden bars is Milk & 1980s-themed basement bar plays Madonna, Honey in Soho, which opened in 2002. While David Bowie and Cyndi Lauper. It’s decorated with it’s a members’ bar, the ground floor is open to Rubik’s Cube tables, retro video games that you can non-members before 11pm if you book. Order play, and Knight Rider videos. The drinks are just as a London Calling, made with gin, sherry, lemon fun – especially the one that comes in a miniature and orange bitters. House rules include ‘gentlemen wheelie bin (www.shakerandcompany.co.uk). will not introduce themselves to ladies’, but – Sarah Riches

94 | LONDON PLANNER TRAMP COURTESY OF TRAMP; GENUINE LIQUORETTE COURTESY OF GENUINE LIQUORETTE THE BACK ROOM www.hardrock.com. Station: Green Park. E6. 148b OldPark W1K1QZ.T: Lane, 020-7514 1700. Cocktail barpacked withmusicmemorabilia. Station:7353 6170. Blackfriars. D9. passagew Expect snug17th-centuryrooms andnarrow YE OLDECHESHIRECHEESE uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255.www.waxyoconnors.co. Huge Irish-themedpub. WAXY O’CONNOR’S stump.com. Station: StPaul’s. D10. EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085.www.magpieand This pubdatesbacktothe1500s. MAGPIE &STUMP BARS &CLUBS TRADITIONAL PUBS T: 020-3319 6306.www.liquorette.co.uk 6 Rathbone Place, W1T1HL. create your own cocktails to take home. You canalsobrowse spiritsincabinetsand machine thathelpsyoumixyourown drinks. 1970s collagesthatmakes itunique;hasa not justthedecorofneonsigns, murals and former VictorianpubinFitzrovia, butit’s in New York. GenuineLiquorette isina new oneinfluencedbySpanishoff-licences and theprisonislandAlcatraz –andnow, a London hasbarsinspired byDavidBowie ays. your owncocktails’ ‘You can create 145 Fleet St,EC4A2BU. T: 020- Sarah Riches,

1 4-16 Rupert St,W1D Nightlife Editor 18OldBailey

, Bar withTVscr RILEYS SPORTS BAR www.barnightjar.com. Station: OldStreet. A8. T: EC1V1JB. 020-7253129 CityRd, 4101. f This dimly-lit jointineastLondonisknown THE NIGHTJAR Station: CharingCross. E8. T: 020-7930 www.gordonswinebar.com. 1408. Station: King’s Cross StPancras. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk.9900. N1C4QL.T: EustonInternational, Rd, 020-7870 Europe’s longest Champagnebar. StP SEARCYS ST PANCRAS CHAMPAGNE BAR bars.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E3. SW1Y 4TE.T: 020-7930 0393.www.rileyssports action from around theworld. 380Haymarket, established in1890. w wines from around the Enjoy alargeselectionof GORDON’S WINEBAR Station: E10. LondonBridge. T: 020-7234 www.shangri-la.com. 8208. cocktails tomatch. of intimateloungebaronthe52ndfloor A smart, GONG garden.london. Station: Monument.E11. St, EC3M8AF. T: 0333-772 www.sky 0020. views andfree entry. W what isnicknamedthe This baratthetopof CITY GARDENBAR Station: Tottenham D7. Court Road. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Legendary Sohojazzclub. RONNIE SCOTT’S Station: CamdenTown. Offmap. T: 020-7387 5277. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 CamdenHigh St,NW17JN(and branches). Bourbon andburgers, plusbandsandDJs. THE BLUES KITCHEN LIVE ENTERTAINMENT or itsbrilliantcocktails andcoolatmosphere. INFO London map Map: refers tothegridcoordinates onourCentral drinking ageis18yearsold.IDmayberequired. nightclubs are open10pm-3am.TheUK’s legal INFO VISIT FOR MORE orld inthispopular, brick-walled basement, alkie-Talkie buildingboastsspectacularcity The Shard withamazingThamesviewsand

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47 F JANUARY 2019JANUARY rith St,W1D4HT. C8.

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73 Britain Planner The weird 74 I spectacular Viking longship (the ‘Galley’). spectacular Viking longship(the‘Galley’). procession culminatesintheburningof a torchlight through thetown’s streets. The and eccentriccostumes, before marching by honour theirNorse roots bydonningarmour Yuletidecelebrate theendof festivities and Up HellyAa is marked onthelastTuesday inJanuary. During M Although meteorological springbeginsin SPRING life ondisplay throughout theyear. British you’ll bedelightedbythequirky sideof idea offun(checkoutTheHaxey Hood;6Jan), tube totheirfavoured watering holeisyour a group ofpeoplegrappling topushaleather rather perplexed. Butifaday spentwatching arch, inScotland’s ShetlandIslandsitsarrival

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LONDON PLANNER visitors whostumbleacross themfeeling in peculiarpastimesthatcan leave country, peoplegather togethertorevel n towns andvillagesupdown the (29 Jan), the townsfolk of Lerwick Lerwick (29 Jan), thetownsfolk of the wonderful

Championships Snorkelling World Bog Gloucester weighing inat3.6kg, to beprecise). Double to chaseaftercheese (aheftylumpof Only inBritainwould peoplerisklife andlimb Cooper’s Hillin (27 May). bone-crunching CheeseRollingcapers on College nearDorchester (5May), andthe Knob Throwing atKingstonMaurward of biscuit-hurlingprowess called theDorset Race inBuckinghamshire (5 Mar), a showcase Foodstuffs alsounderpinthe for entertainingviewing. five hourstakes tocompleteandmakes about two streams, byany meanspossible.Itusually Medbourne battle togetthree barrels across Hallaton and of theLeicestershire villagesof vicar. Next, anunrulyscrumformed byresidents piece ofpiethathasbeenblessedbythelocal Bottle Kicking(22Apr)seesascramble for a to itsorganisers. The event thatdatesbacktoRomantimes, according pie, noless–isthebasisfor anEasterMonday Aslightlymore unusualparade –ofahare & Hare PieScramble and Olney

WORLD BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS © VISITBRITAIN FIND YOUR Britain’s best-loved towns and cities. In partnership with VisitBritain

Up Helly Aa

Cheese rolling? Gravy wrestling? Kathryn Conway uncovers some strange customs that reveal Brits are a rather eccentric bunch

SUMMER Chasing after things in the name of fun isn’t confined to Gloucestershire. In Wales, witness human endurance pitted against horsepower, across a gruelling 35km course in Llanwrtyd Wells (also home to the World Bog Snorkelling Championships on 25 Aug) at the Man versus Horse Marathon (8 Jun). Alternatively, head north to Tywyn to see competitors run across the countryside as they attempt to beat a steam train to the finish line (Race the Train; 17 Aug). Far more sedate are the snails that slug it out at the World Snail Racing Championships (20 Jul) in Congham, Norfolk. They are all trying to beat Archie, the 1995 champion, whose winning time of two minutes is mentioned in the book of Guinness World Records. Not to be outdone, worms get their moment of glory when ‘wormers’ try to coax as many of them from the earth as possible in the World Worm Charming Championships (Jun). Head to the primary school in Willaston, Cheese rolling

UP HELLY AA AND CHEESE ROLLING © ISTOCK UP HELLY , to watch all the slithery action.

JANUARY 2019 | 75 FIND YOUR Britain Planner

AUTUMN A change in temperature doesn’t put paid to strange goings-on, with September heralding oddities such as ’s Egremont Crab Fair (21 Sep). Established in 1276, the fair celebrates the crab apple harvest (rather than the crustacean) and of all the activities that have comprised the event over the centuries, it is the World Gurning Championships that remains the quirkiest; the sight of contests pulling grotesque faces through a horse collar is quite something to behold. To enjoy tournaments that require more skill, the World Conker Championships in Southwick, World Snail Racing Northamptonshire (13 Oct), and the World Stone Championships Skimming Championships at Easdale Island in Scotland (29 Sep), are events worth seeing. Another Scottish-based contest is Golden Spurtle. Created 25 years ago by Roger Reed to promote his hometown of Carrbridge, this porridge- making cook-off attracts global competitors. Bonfire Night in Ottery St Mary WINTER This tribute to the weird and the wonderful wouldn’t be complete without the World’s Biggest Liar Competition. Will Ritson, a 19th-century publican, was known for outlandish tales. Now, every November, a battle of fibs is held in his honour at The Bridge Inn in the Lake District. Would-be Pinocchios have five minutes to impress a panel of judges with their lies. This is undoubtedly a whole lot less dangerous than witnessing the curious sight on Bonfire Night (5 Nov) of flaming tar barrels being carried through the Devonshire town of Ottery St Mary, a tradition some believe honours the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Only in Britain.

Carrbridge, home to Golden Spurtle Golden Spurtle winner NAILS AND BONFIRE NIGHT © ISTOCK; SNAILS AND BONFIRE NIGHT © ISTOCK;S GOLDEN SPURTLEGOLDEN SPURTLE IMAGES © SOUND BITE PR IMAGES © SOUND BITE PR

76 | LONDON PLANNER

Essential information USEFUL THINGS TO KNOW Ticket information from booking a place to stay to getting around the city Oyster cards & An is a pre-paid travel smart card. Use it for single journeys on the bus, Tube, tram, DLR, and most National Rail train services within the London region. You can also buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for £5 and load it with credit at www.visitor shop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones; Zone 1 is in central London. Buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from ticket machines at stations, eight TfL Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. Getting around UK residents can also pay for For 24-hour travel info, visit card, Oyster card, their travel with a UK-issued ’s (TfL) or UK-issued contactless contactless payment debit card. website www.tfl.gov.uk/ payment debit card. For For more information, see visitinglondon or call further information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondong . T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an London Underground Oyster card or UK-issued (the Tube) contactless card. www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map (p. 88-89). London Overground Services run Mon-Sat 5am- www.tfl.gov.uk. See London

12.30am and Sun 7.30am- Underground Map (p. 88-89). 11.30pm on most routes. Night Trains run Mon-Sat 5am- An Oyster card also gives gives Tube runs all night Fri & Sat midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm you a 25 per cent discount on on the Victoria and Jubilee on most routes. Emirates Air Line (London’s lines, and most of the Central, cable car) and discounts on Northern and Piccadilly lines. single journeys on all MBNA Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare www.tfl.gov.uk/dlr. Thames Clippers river buses. is £4.90 (£2.40 Oyster). T: 020-7363 9700. Trains run For more information, visit about every three to 10 mins. www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. London buses Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; London buses run from Sun 7am-11pm. 5am-12.30am. Night buses Visitor pass (midnight-4.30am) operate on Taxis London Pass offers free entry and main routes. Several services Fares increase after 8pm. Don’t discounts at a fixed price. See run 24 hours a day. You cannot use vehicles that approach you, www.visitbritainshop.com. pay for a London bus fare with except for licensed black cabs.

cash, so use a Visitor Oyster Visit www.tfl.gov.uk. ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

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78 | LONDON PLANNER

INFO Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central London Map (p. 82-84). Prices quoted are for single journeys. Fares and journey times can change. Please check before you travel at www.tfl.gov.uk

Airports

Heathrow Airport T: 0844-335 1801. www.heathrowairport.com. London Underground: Direct trains to/from central London every five minutes 5am-11.45pm via Piccadilly line. Journey time 60 minutes. Heathrow Connect: Two trains per hour to/from Paddington. Journey time 25 minutes.

Trains : Four direct trains an hour to/ Paddington serves the West Country, from Paddington. Journey time 15 minutes. Wales and the South Midlands. National Express: Three coaches per hour to/from Street and Fenchurch . Journey time 45 minutes. Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras T: 0844-892 0322. www.gatwickairport.com. Marylebone and St Pancras : Direct trains to/from London International (connects to King’s Cross Bridge and St Pancras International (connects St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, to King’s Cross St Pancras). Up to four and southeast England. Charing Cross trains per hour. : Direct London Bridge Waterloo trains to/from Victoria every 15 minutes. and Victoria serve southern England. The journey takes about 30 minutes. Southern T: 0845-748 4950. www.nationalrail.co.uk. Railway: Direct trains to/from Victoria Eurostar uses St Pancras International. every 15 minutes. The journey takes 30 minutes. National Express: Direct coaches to/from Go to www.eurostar.com. UK: T: 0343-218 Victoria Coach Station, up to two coaches per 6186. International: T: 01233-617 575. hour. Journey times are one hour 20 minutes. Car hire City Airport Make sure your driving licence is valid for T: 020-7646 0088. www.londoncityairport. the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ (p. 80). com. : Trains Hertz T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. to/from Canary Wharf (change at Kendall Cars Ltd T: 020-8542 0403. Poplar) Canning Town www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent- Bank and many other stations. A-Car T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Stansted Airport T: 0844-335 1803. www.stanstedairport.com. hire : Trains to/from Bicycles are for hire from docking stations across Liverpool Street. National Express: central London. £2 for 24-hour hire. First 30 Coaches run to/from Victoria Coach Station. minutes of cycling are free. Visit www.tfl.gov. Stansted Citylink runs coaches to Stansted uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666. Airport from Victoria and King’s Cross St Pancras. Transport symbols explained T: 01582-405 100. www.london-luton.co.uk. London Underground Docklands Light Railway : There are up to six trains London Overground per hour to/from St Pancras International London River (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras). National Rail Services Pier

Enjoy London with a Visitor Oyster Card. The easiest way to travel around. For more information or to pre-purchase, go to YLVLWRUVKRSWÁJRYXN

MAYOR OF LONDON Transport for London

JANUARY 2019 | 79 Ticket information Essential information

Visitor information centre Find tourist information at the City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8BX. Whether you need directions, information about the latest events or suggestions for days out, speak to the friendly, multilingual team at the only officially recognised tourist information centre in central London. At the centre you can get Oyster cards, hotel reservations, foreign exchange, VAT refunds, stamps, postcards and tickets to attractions and tours, as well as theatre shows. There are also Visitor Centres at Holborn, Victoria, Euston, King’s Cross St Pancras, Liverpool Street, Piccadilly Circus, Paddington, Gatwick Airport and Terminals 2 & 3. Coaches LONDON London’s main coach services use Victoria PLANNER Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel For copies of London Planner call T: 020-7611 4669 across the UK, SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. Morris Visitor Publications, 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s Street, London, SW1Y 4SQ. T: 020-7242 5222. [email protected]. www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches. Victoria. LondonPlanner LondonPlannerMag LondonPlanner www. www.youtube.com/londonplanner Congestion Charge Group Editor: Kohinoor Sahota Group Deputy Editor: Sarah Riches Associate & Digital Editor: Neil Simpson Sub Editor: Anna Frame There is a congestion charge to drive into central Contributors: Jon Ashford, Kathryn Conway, Emma Levine Picture London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on Researcher: Tamsan Barratt Group Art Director: Tim Benton Senior Designer: Suzette Scoble Content Director: Chris Johnson Production the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). & Distribution Director: Melanie Needham Senior Production Assistant & Retoucher: Dave Weeks Production Assistant: David Pollard Senior T: UK: 0343-222 2222. International: +44 343 Account Manager: Dominique Marchi Sales Director: Rob Way Senior Sales Development Manager: Charlotte Johnson-Last Sales -222 2222. www.tfl.gov.uk/congestioncharge. Development Managers: Kate Roach, Kimberly Dunstan-Smith Operations Director: Bridget Bayford Senior Marketing, Distribution & Production Co-ordinator: Graham Randell Events and Marketing River services Associate: Ana Martinez Office Co-ordinator: Ewa Laskowska Operations Assistant: Vinetta Swan Publishing Director: Stewart Dymock MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers. Managing Director: Chris Manning Prices start at £4.80. River Roamer ticket adult London & Partners: T: 020-7234 5800. www.londonandpartners.com www.visitbritain.com £19.80; child £9.90; under-fives free. Discounts on London Planner Volume 32, Issue 1. Printed in Great Britain. Over 100,000 monthly copies distributed worldwide. Est. 1984. single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers © Morris Visitor Publications. No part may be reproduced without written permission from Morris Visitor Publications. river buses with an Oyster card. www.tfl. NOTE: The information contained in this publication has been published in good faith on the basis of gov.uk/river. MBNA Thames Clippers: information submitted to Morris Visitor Publications. MVP and VisitBritain cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information in this publication and accept no responsibility for any error or misrepresentation. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or other damages caused by reliance on the information contained in this publication, or in the event of bankruptcy, or liquidation or cessation of trade of any company, individual or firm is hereby excluded. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, ISO 14001 accredited. Emirates Air Line cable car ISSN 0265 8437 LP/362/Jan19/1104. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH London’s only cable car runs across the Thames between (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL). You can board from either

The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. Please recycle this magazine, or return it to your hotel. of the river (return flights are available). www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

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D SO W Y ST I A S R B K EET S D EN T EN 9 10 11 Royal Arsenal Ferry Ferry North South Terminal Terminal Woolwich Woolwich 5HJXVHU1R(3 Step-free access from to pier level street London Underground National Rail Daily Operated by Briggs Marine Ferry service: Ferry North Greenwich Woolwich Ferry Daily Operated by Briggs Marine Ferry service: Ferry Interchange piers Interchange Docklands Light Railway Emirates Air Line London Overground

Key to symbols: Key h the Thames Barrier g Greenwich Greenwich MAP LONDON Masthouse Terrace Canary Wharf Westminster to Hampton Court Boats Operated by Thames River Richmond St. Helena to Hampton Court Launches Operated by Turk Thames Barrier loop Some boats throu cruise

River Tours summer-only: Tours River

St. Katharine Docklands Greenland Doubletree Nelson Dock Westminster to Hampton Court Boats Operated by Thames River Richmond St. Helena to Hampton Court Launches Operated by Turk Thames Barrier loop the Thames Barrier Some boats through cruise Services Operated by Thames River City Cruises Circular River Cruise River City Cruises Circular Circular tour departing from and Westminster Pier Westminster/St. cruise circular Katharine Operated by Circular Cruise Westminster Westminster to Greenwich Operated by City Cruises Westminster to Greenwich Services Operated by Thames River River Tours summer-only: Tours River Tower River Tours year-round: Tours River London Bridge City

Blackfriars Festival Bankside Westminster/St. cruise circular Katharine Operated by Circular Cruise Westminster Westminster to Greenwich Operated by City Cruises Westminster to Greenwich Services Operated by Thames River River Tours year-round: Tours River on map): map): on shown (not circular Tours River London Eye River Cruise River London Eye 40 minute circular tour departing from Pier Eye London London Eye Embankment Doubletree Docklands Nelson Dock Doubletree to Canary Wharf Daily Arsenal Royal North Greenwich to Woolwich only Weekends RB4 RB5 St. George Wharf Plantation Wharf Westminster Millbank Westminster to North Greenwich Daily Arsenal Royal North Greenwich to Woolwich only mornings and evenings Limited service: Westminster to Battersea Power Station morning peak only Limited service: RB1 River Bus: River Cadogan Quarter Riverside Doubletree Docklands Nelson Dock Doubletree to Canary Wharf Daily Arsenal Royal North Greenwich to Woolwich only Weekends Putney to Blackfriars only morning and evenings Weekday Blackfriars to Canary Wharf morning and Weekday Limited service: only evenings PM services only Wandsworth Chelsea Harbour RB4 RB5 RB6 Putney Kew Richmond St. Helena Richmond Landing Stage Kingston Turks Westminster to North Greenwich Daily Arsenal Royal North Greenwich to Woolwich only mornings and evenings Limited service: Westminster to Battersea Power Station morning peak only Limited service: Westminster to North Greenwich only Weekends Battersea Power Station to London Bridge City Daily Kingston Town End RB1 RB1X RB2 River Bus: River River bus services are operated by MBNA Thames Clippers MBNA are operated by bus services River Court Hampton

JANUARY 2019 | 85 London bus map

Key bus routes in central London 2 to Hampstead Hea Camden Lock 139 to Golders Green ZSL Market 23 London Zoo Westbourne Park Abbey Road ZSL Camden To Lord’s Cricket London Ground Zoo Lisson Grove Albany Street Sainsbury’s for ZSL London Zoo Sherlock Holmes Regent’s Park Museum Ladbroke Grove Madame Tussauds

Telecom 205 Marylebone Tower Paddington Great Warren Stre 453 74 Baker Street and Portland and Euston Squa Gloucester Place Street Edgware Road Pollock’s Toy Museum 159 Marble Goodge Stre Arch and Gower Stre Notting Hill Lancaster Gate Gate Bond 148 Queensway 274 Circus Tottenham to Marble 25 73 Court Road White Hyde Arch Cambridg City Kensington Park Circu Gardens Park Lane Eros Conduit Street Albert Shaftesbu Memorial C2 Avenue to Royal Hammersmith Royal Academy 9 Albert National Nelson’s 10 Hall Knightsbridge Piccadilly Gallery Column Green Park Circus High Street Kensington Hyde Park St. James’s Corner Palace Harrods Wellington Pall Mall Science Green St. James’s Palace Museum Arch Park Admiralty Victoria & Arch Albert Museum South Kensington Natural Royal Horse History Mews Buckingham St. James’s Park Guards 74 Museum Palace to Putney St. James’s Park Victoria 38 390 Victoria Street Westminste

14 Victoria Westminster to Putney Heath Coach Station Cathedral Westminster Abbey Chelsea Belgrave Road Houses of T King’s Road Saatchi Parliament Gallery River to 24 Pimlico Grosvenor Road to Streath 11 to Fulham Broadway

86 | LONDON PLANNER Route 8 Route 9 24 C2 390 43 to Route 10 ath to Parliament to to 73 Route 11 Hill Fields Archway Friern Caledonian Barnet 38 Route 14 Road & Route 15 Barnsbury to Clapton Camden York Way Pond Route 23 own Road Agar Grove Route 24 Essex Road Route 25 Islington Angel Route 38 Mornington London 274 Crescent Route 43 Canal to Bow 8 Museum Route 59 St. John Route 73 King’s Street Euston Cross Sadler’s Wells Old Street Route 74 14 Theatre Route 139 Charles Dickens eet 10 Museum Route 148 are St. Pancras Barbican Shoreditch Route 159 59 Centre High Street Internationalnal Route 188 Moorgate 11 188 Route 205 Great Theobald’s 23 Russell St Russell Road Route 274 Square Museum Route 390 eet of London British Liverpool St Route 453 eet Museum Route C2 Bank Bloomsbury Way Route RV1 25 to Ilford m 8 Holborn Chancery Holborn St. 205 to Bow d/ Lane Viaduct Paul’s e for City Thameslink us Aldgate

Covent Garden Market 15 ry to Blackwall Kingsway Mansion Tower House Gateway Leicester Covent Garden Cannon RV1 Square Street Monument London RV1 Royal Courts St Paul’s Tower Hill Transport of Justice Cathedral Tower of Museum London Fleet St. Street St. Paul’s Katharine’s Cathedral Tower London Tower Bridge City Aldwych Ludgate Circus HMS Belfast Bridge Trafalgar Square for City Thameslink for Charing Cross 9 15 43 London Tower 188 Blackfriars Globe Bridge Cleopatra’s Needle Royal National Tate Theatre Bridge to North Theatre Bankside Road Embankment Festival Oxo Modern Greenwich Royal Tower Festival Hall Tate Modern © Transport for London 5HJ8VHU1R(3 London Eye Waterloo 139 Key r London Bermondsey Market London Underground interchange Westminster Eye London Overground interchange Elephant & Castle TfL Rail interchange Imperial hames National Rail interchange T War Museum Bricklayers Arms DLR interchange Road and Library m Hill 59 London River Services pier to to ham 159 148 453 Deptford Transport for London Visitor Information Centre Green

JANUARY 2019 | 87 London Underground map

Willesden Green Finchley Road Kentish H Stonebridge Park Kentish Town & Frognal Town West Harlesden Kilburn Belsize Park Caledon Brondesbury West Camden Willesden Junction Park Hampstead Chalk Farm Road Camden Town Kensal Rise Brondesbury Finchley Road Kensal Green Swiss Cottage Kilburn South Mornington Queen’s Park St. John’s Wood High Road Hampstead Crescent King’s Cross St. Pancras Kilburn Park Edgware Great Paddington Maida Vale Road Marylebone Baker Portland Euston Warwick Avenue Street Street Royal Oak Angel Westbourne Park Warren Street Euston Edgware Square Farringdon Road Regent’s Park Ladbroke Grove Barbican Russell Latimer Road Bayswater Square Moorgate East White Shepherd’s Goodge Notting Lancaster Bond Oxford Street Chancery Acton City Bush Hill Gate Gate Street Circus Holborn Lane St. Paul’s North Holland Queensway Marble Tottenham Acton Park Arch Court Road Ban Wood Lane Covent Garden High Street Kensington Green Park Cannon Shepherd’s Leicester Mansion Street Bush Market Hyde Park Corner Piccadilly Square House Kensington Circus Goldhawk Road (Olympia) Knightsbridge Charing Cross Barons Gloucester Blackfriars Hammersmith Court Road Sloane St. James’s Square Park Temple

Stamford Ravenscourt West Earl’s South Victoria Westminster Embankment Brook Park Kensington Court Kensington

Waterloo Fulham Broadway Pimlico

Parsons Green Imperial Southwark Borough Wharf Lambeth North Step-free access River Thames from street to train East Putney Vauxhall Elephant & Castle Step-free access from street to Southfields Qu platform

Bakerloo Central Circle District Hammersmith Jubilee Metropolitan Nort & City

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P Version D 7.2017 LONDON PLANN THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRS 88 | LONDON PLANNER Stoke Seven Kings Upminster Holloway Road Newington Leytonstone Wanstead Bridge High Road Park Ilford Highbury & Rectory St. James ian Road Islington Road Street Manor Park Hornchurch Dalston Leyton Kingsland Clapton Stratford Woodgrange International Forest Park Caledonian Hackney Gate Elm Park Road & Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Maryland Dagenham East Barnsbury Central Wick Stratford Dagenham Heathway Dalston Junction Homerton Becontree Haggerston London Fields Stratford Upney High Cambridge Heath Street Barking Hoxton Bethnal Green l East Ham Pudding Abbey Bethnal Mile Mill Lane Green End Road Upton Park Old Street Shoreditch Plaistow High Street Bow Bromley- West Ham e Road Bow Church by-Bow

Liverpool Stepney Green Devons Road Street Star Lane Aldgate Langdon East Whitechapel k Park Aldgate All Saints Canning Town Royal Shadwell Westferry Poplar Victoria Custom House for ExCeL Blackwall East Monument Tower Limehouse Emirates Hill India Prince Regent Tower Royal Wapping West India Docks Gateway Quay Royal Albert River Thames West Beckton Park London Bridge Canary Wharf Cyprus Emirates Bermondsey Canada North Water Heron Quays Greenwich Greenwich Peninsula Pontoon Gallions South Quay Dock Reach Beckton Crossharbour London City Mudchute Airport Island Gardens King

Cutty Sark for 17/E/3249/P Maritime Greenwich Greenwich New Cross Gate Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. ueens Road New Cross Deptford Bridge TfL stations’ Please search ‘ for full details. Brockley Elverson Road Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays thern Piccadilly Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line Overground TfL Rail cable car

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel Correct at time of going to print Your friend NER.COM in the city T VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS OCTOBER 2018 | 89 SECRETSThe Greatest OFCity THE London in numbers CITY Artist Rick Buckley has attached HIDDEN NOSES to London landmarks, The oak crown atop the including 2012 35 Diamond Jubilee State Coach contains Gandalf’s staff from a secret camera lived at The Lord of the Rings 15 Glenshaw Mansions movies is in in Brixton The Grapes pub at Carlton House has 76 Narrow Street a grave from You will find Pickering Place at 1934 13 3 green sheds on London’s St James’s Street dedicated to Giro, a Nazi streets, where cab drivers is Britain’s smallest square ambassador’s dog go for shelter and tea

A bagpiper plays for the Queen daily at Cloth Fair is the only house 22 9.15am in the City of London to was the age of the Tower of 41 have survived the Great Fire London’s longest-serving raven There are over

1,000 plague-era skeletons under the London Tombs

The ’s archive shelves grow by 12km annually

Sources: historic-uk.com; english-heritage.org.uk; inews.co.uk; visitlondon.com ISTOCK © GRAPHIC ICONS

90 | LONDON PLANNER