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E Guide the Travel Guide with Its Own Website

E Guide the Travel Guide with Its Own Website

Londonwww.elondon.dk.com e guide the travel guide with its own website

always up-to-date d what’s happening now

London e guide

In style • In the know • Online

www.elondon.dk.com Produced by Blue Island Publishing

Contributors Jonathan Cox, Michael Ellis, Andrew Humphreys, Lisa Ritchie

Photographer Max Alexander

Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound in Singapore by Tien Wah Press

First published in Great Britain in 2005 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, WC2R 0RL

Reprinted with revisions 2006

Copyright © 2005, 2006 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 1 4053 1401 X ISBN 978 1 40531 401 5

The information in this e>>guide is checked annually. This guide is supported by a dedicated website which provides the very latest information for visitors to London; please see pages 6–7 for the web address and password. Some information, however, is liable to change, and the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Contents

The Website >> Your Password 6

Top Choices 8 The Year / Morning / Afternoon Evening / Night

Restaurants 20 Shopping 56 Art & Architecture 92 Performance 114 , Bars & Clubs 132 Streetlife 156 Havens 166 Hotels 176

Street Finder 190

Index by Area 210

Index by Type 220

Travel Information 230

Practical Information 232

General Index 234 visit www.elondon.dk.com for the

One book to take…

listingsStay ahead of the crowd with edguide London, and find the best places to , shop, drink and chill out at a glance. Packed with great ideas, incisive reviews and stylish photographs, it’s the guide for those who want to experience the real soul and pace of the city. With its own dedicated website, this is the only guidebook that’s always up-to-date.

• Find a romantic restaurant for a special occasion, or the best for a pint

• Explore small, independent art galleries in London’s coolest neighbourhoods revi

• Discover the city’s nightlife, from DJ bars to live gigs and the latest clubs

• Shop till you drop at the very best of London’s shops, from fashion to furniture

6 latest on what’s happening now

your user ID is: london

your password is: london48279

…one website to visit

Click onto www.elondon.dk.com for • Tap into what’s on at the latest news from and about places and who’s in at the Tate, and book your tickets online listed in the guide, plus readers’ reviews and chat, features on hot topics, • Look up restaurants by name, by type and and an up-to-the-minute short list of by area, and check the latest reviews London’s most useful service providers. • Link directly to all the websites in the The website is regularly updated, book, and many more so every time you visit you bring your guidebook up-to-date. • Have your say about places in the book, and recommend your favourites How to log in

When you click on Log in on the ewshome page of the website, a log-in box will appear. Enter your user ID User ID: london and password (see right). The password will be valid for a Password: london48279 minimum of 12 months from the what’sdate you purchased this guide. new

7 top choices

London is one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities, boasting superb modern architecture, bold street fashion, a vibrant arts scene, and restaurants and nightlife for every taste. This guide leads you to the city’s latest and best, opening with the top choices of what to do through the year and 24/7. And here, to get you started, are London’s most unmissable sights: d The British Museum (p98) d The (p18) d Tate Modern and Tate Britain (p111 and p99) d The (p95) d The (p96) d Abbey (p96) d Buckingham Palace and the Queen’s Gallery (p96) d St ’s Cathedral (p100) d The Houses of Parliament (p113) d Shakespeare’s Globe (p130) TOP CHOICES – the year

There’s no doubt about it – London is ready to party. No what time of year you’re in town, there’s always something going on in this most international of cities. London’s and film festivals are second to none, and venerable British institutions such as the Chelsea Flower Show seem to become more exciting every year. Community celebrations too, such as Chinese New Year and Pride, have become bigger and slicker in recent years, attracting a wider cross-section of the population. However, don’t miss out on the quirkier events that will give you insight into local life. Take advantage of Open Garden Squares Weekend to peek inside secluded gardens that are usually kept behind lock and key, and join in the free, family-friendly festivities dotting the summer calendar on the .

SPRING mystical landscapes – have universal appeal. In mid- summer, Hampton Court Palace hosts the world’s Chinese New Year largest horticultural event, with dazzling floral displays www.chinatownchinese.com and temporary landscaped gardens in the palace’s The main celebration has sprawling parkland. May (Chelsea) & Jul (Hampton Court) outgrown Chinatown and moved to , Outdoor Concerts which is decorated with (Map 1 C1; see p108), lanterns and flowers. The www.picnicconcerts.com; House (Map 9 H3; entertainment includes see p94), www.somerset-house.org.uk; Holland Park traditional lion and dragon (Map 6 D5; see p170), www.operahollandpark.com dances, and fireworks in What could be more magical than listening to music . Food outdoors in a beautiful setting? On a balmy summer’s stalls spring up all along evening, pack a picnic and throw down a blanket in the Gerrard Street. Jan or Feb grounds of Kenwood House. Concerts feature big names in jazz, pop and classical music, and end with a fire- London Marathon works display over the lake. In , the mag- www.london-marathon.co.uk nificent courtyard of Somerset House hosts concerts More than 45,000 runners set off from Park, each summer. Recent super-chilled acts include Air and and follow the Thames through Docklands and along Bebel Gilberto. For something more classical, Opera to . You can join the party Holland Park performs amid flowerbeds – a canopy atmosphere in one of over 50 participating pubs, which ensures the show goes on whatever the weather. open in readiness for the 9am start. Apr Check schedules on the websites. Jun, Jul & Aug

SUMMER Open Garden Squares Weekend http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/london.gardens Chelsea & Hampton Court Palace Flower Shows A rare, fleeting opportunity to slip into some of Royal Hospital, Chelsea (Map 14 C4); London’s secret gardens. More than 80 private squares Hampton Court Palace • £ Hampton Court; www.rhs.org.uk – usually the preserve of privileged key-holding The Royal Horticultural Society’s Chelsea Flower Show residents – open their gates to the public. Refresh- is a slightly elitist occasion, but the show gardens – ments, live music and other entertainments are offered ranging from restrained, contemporary spaces to in some. Maps and full details are on the website. Jun

10 Link up to events websites through www.elondon.dk.com Coin Street Festival AUTUMN Bernie Gardens (Map 10 A4), www.coinstreetfestival.org Ethnic diversity is celebrated with live world music, Frieze Art Fair dance and art workshops at this free, community-based Pavilion in Regent’s Park (Map 2 B3), www.friezeartfair.com festival. Events take place over a series of theme days London’s newest and best contemporary art fair draws and weekends throughout the summer. Jun–Aug work from 150 galleries around the world, including big hitters Marian Goodman and Leo Koenig in New York, Pride London Jablonka Gallerie in Cologne and Galerie Yvon Lambert, www.pridelondon.org Paris. The gathering is organized by international art The gay and lesbian festival is one of London’s largest, magazine Frieze and lasts for four days. Mid-Oct with flamboyant floats, dancers and, of course, drag queens. It begins in the morning with a parade through Open House Weekend central London. In the afternoon, a massive party kicks www.londonopenhouse.org off in a park, with live music and high camperie. Jul Over 500 London build- ings, most of which are The Proms not usually accessible to (Map 13 G1), www.bbc.co.uk/proms the public, throw open Launched over 100 years ago to promote musical appre- their doors for just one ciation among the masses, the Proms offer very cheap weekend. The list of “promenade” (standing) tickets on the night, as well as participating buildings prebooked seats for over 70 concerts. There is a big- changes annually, but each screen link-up in Park. Securing a ticket for the year’s event includes a famously high-spirited Last Night is tricky. Jul–Sep fabulous selection of grand mansions and Carnival contemporary houses; 1 Notting Hill Gate or Latimer Road (Map 7 E4), public housing schemes by renowned architects; lavish 08700 591111, www.nottinghillcarnival.org.uk government departments such as the Foreign Office; The famous Carnival still has a heavy Caribbean accent. industrial buildings; theatres; church crypts and more. Exotic floats and costumed dancers parade through the You have to book for some: check the website. Mid-Sep shabby-chic streets of Notting Hill, while throngs of revellers strut their stuff to calypso, salsa, R&B and hip- WINTER hop. Countless food stalls dish up rice‘n’peas, chicken and -fish patties. Aug Bank Holiday Weekend London Film Festival www.lff.org.uk More than 300 films are screened during this two-week festival, at selected cinemas in central London. A diverse programme includes gala previews of big-budget movies, international and art-house features, and appear- ances by filmmakers, writers and actors. Late Oct/Nov

Somerset House Ice Rink Somerset House (Map 9 H3; see also p94) Glide around London’s most beautiful ice rink, which is set in the courtyard of a Thames- landmark and torch-lit in the evening. Hot chocolate and mulled wine are available at the Ice Rink Café. Nov–Jan

For listings magazines with full information on everything that’s on in London, see p232 11 TOP CHOICES – morning

Rush-hour traffic aside, this is the best time to appreciate sights that are thronged later in the day. On a fine morning, the sun glistens on serene waterways and highlights the vivid floral displays in London’s parks, where the relative quiet is punctuated by bird song. The city’s atmospheric mar- kets kick off early and are less crowded and combed-through than in the afternoon. Arrive at opening time with the professional dealers if you want to snap up the treasures. If the weather is unkind and paints the sky grey, you can still make the most of an early start by taking in a spot of culture. Beat the crowds to a famous museum, or attend a coffee concert of classi- cal music. If all that sounds like a bit too much effort, linger over brunch in one of the most stylish parts of town.

An Early Swim between affluent Maida Avenue and Blomfield Road. Serpentine Lido, Hyde Park (Map 8 A5), 020 7706 7098; Some boats are laden with splendid blooms in hanging Parliament Hill Lido • 1 Belsize Park or Kentish Town baskets. There’s a floating café in the triangle of water Start your day with a splash in Hyde Park’s mini Riviera. where the canals meet, but the best place for breakfast The south-west section of the Serpentine is reserved is Café Laville, which occupies a prime spot overlooking for swimming, and offers a sun deck and paddling pool the canal on Edgware Road. The back of the restaurant as well. It opens at 9am. Afterwards, you can relax with opens up to command a spectacular view of the water- an alfresco coffee at the Lido Café. For an earlier dip, way and its colourful vessels. try Parliament Hill Lido – a recently refurbished 60-m (100-ft) pool on Heath. This one opens A Boat Trip Upriver (Westminster Pier to at 7am for free swimming until 9:30pm. It also has a Richmond, or Hampton Court) terrace, café and paddling pool. Thames River Boats, 020 7930 2062, www.wpsa.co.uk For a relaxing day trip, follow the route of Henry VIII’s A Stroll around Royal Barge from Westminster to the palace at Blomfield Road, W2 (Map 7 G1; see also p171) Hampton Court, where the notorious 16th-century The picturesque area where three canals converge monarch bedded his many wives. You can disembark makes for a pleasant morning amble along towpaths. early at Kew for the Royal Botanical Gardens (see p175), Brightly painted narrow boats line the Regent’s Canal or Richmond for its deer park and large riverside pubs. However, going the extra distance is worth it, as the winding, willow-lined stretch of river between Kew and Hampton Court is especially picturesque.

Breakfast at Smithfields Charterhouse Street & East Poultry Lane (Map 10 B2) Catering primarily to the workers of Smithfield meat market, the , 115 Charterhouse Street, does a hearty “Full English” breakfast (fried bread, sausages, egg, beans and black pudding) from 7am. Wash it down with a Wadsworth ale or a stout. The Cock Tavern, set in the basement depths of the market, offers a similar line in fry-ups and beer from 6am, making it popular with all-night clubbers as well as night workers.

12 Check for changes in opening hours with www.elondon.dk.com Brunch in Notting Hill Dakota: 127 Ledbury Road; 202: 202 Westbourne Grove; Tom’s Delicatessen: 226 Westbourne Grove (all on Map 6 D3) Join the beautiful people gathering over Bloody Marys and eggs Benedict in cool Notting Hill. Airy, modern American restaurant Dakota has a terrific weekend brunch menu, while the French-style café in Nicole Farhi’s lifestyle store, 202, serves blueberry pancakes, bagels and smoked salmon. Tom’s Deli is a local institution, and all three have outside tables in summer.

Saturdays on Portobello Road www.portobelloroad.co.uk (see also p159) seems overly crowded, but that’s not true of the Get up early for some civilized antiques browsing museum galleries. Make the most of the relative quiet before the melee is in full swing. The market officially of a morning to peruse some of the highlights of the opens at 5:30am, and most dealers have set up shop extensive collection: finely hewn Egyptian sculptures, by 8am. Warrens of small stalls selling bric-a-brac and reliefs from the Buddhist temple at Amaraviti and, of collector’s pieces can be found in the arcades leading course, the infamous Elgin Marbles. off the street. The café at kitchenalia shop Still Too Few (300 Westbourne Grove) is an excellent refuelling stop. A Walk in Regent’s Park www.royalparks.gov.uk (Map 2 B4) Morning is the most peaceful time to enjoy what is arguably the most beautiful park in London. Before 11am you’re likely to cross paths only with dog-walkers or pedestrians on their way to work. Seek out the glorious formal beds and classical fountains of the Avenue Gardens, Queen Mary’s Gardens, for a riot of roses, and the Boating Lake, home to many unusual water fowl.

A Morning Concert at Wigmore Hall From £10, including coffee, sherry or juice (see also p122) Sundays at Columbia Road Market Since this opulent yet intimate recital hall opened in 1901, www.columbia-flower-market.freewebspace.com (Map 5 F4; some of the world’s greatest have played see also p161) under its painted cupola. The Sunday Coffee Concerts are From 8am to 2pm on Sundays, a short East End terrace a civilized way to ease into the day. For a deeply relaxing is transformed into a vibrant strip of shrubs and flowers, experience, you can opt for a pre-lunch sherry. enlivened by the enthusiastic vendors. There are also some stylish shops, including Angela Flanders’ perfumery at No. 96. Snack on fried prawns from Lee’s Sea Foods (No.134), or stop for breakfast at Perennial (Nos. 110–12).

Browsing the British Museum Great Russell St (Map 9 F2; see also p98) On a fine day, sunlight streams through the curved steel-and-glass roof into the capacious Great Court at the centre of the “BM”. The Court is huge and never

13 TOP CHOICES – afternoon

Afternoons can be as busy or as lazy as you like. During the week, the pedestrian traffic in the centre thins out a bit after the lunchtime rush. This is the perfect time for a guided walking tour, to gain an informed perspec- tive on the city. Many of London’s cultural riches are free – the lunchtime recitals in a number of churches are a wonderful way to take in the beauti- ful architecture, and you can gallery-hop in hip before hitting the bars. On weekend afternoons, the streets are thick with shoppers. If the crowds get too much, you may want to duck into a serene spa for some peace and quiet, or take part in time-honoured British rituals: go to a football match, tuck into a Sunday roast at one of the many excellent gastropubs, or take high tea at a chic hotspot or a grand hotel.

Summer Swimming at Brockwell Lido London (a tour of the Inns of Court) on Mondays and , Dulwich Road, SE24, 020 7274 3088, Fridays, and Christopher Wren’s London on Tuesdays. www.brockwelllido.com • 1 A 15-minute walk from the Tube station, “Brixton Sundays around Spitalfields Beach”, as Brockwell Lido swimming pool is Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1; see also p161) affectionately known, is a little summertime oasis. On This energetic part of town in and around Spitalfields any sunny day, the place gets packed by mid-afternoon, Market, with cool stalls and food outlets, is abuzz on and especially at weekends, when the people-watching Sundays. Nearby, in Fournier, Fashion and Princelet factor is at its most fascinating. Different social groups streets, there are beautifully restored early 18th-century gravitate towards different areas of the terrace sur- Georgian terraces, and Hawksmoor’s Christ Church. rounding the big blue pool. Families with kids are at one end; topless bathers at the other. A gay enclave is easi- ly spotted by the finest tans and tiniest swimwear. Everyone gets along fine, enjoying the sunshine and occasionally cooling off with a dip.

A Guided Tour The Original London Walks, 020 7624 3978, www.walks.com Get an insider’s view of London on a walking tour led by someone in the know. The Original London Walks boasts Lunchtime Recitals in London’s Churches leading archaeologists www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org, www.st-james-piccadilly.org, and historians among its www.stmarylebow.co.uk, www.stbrides.com; see p226 for all guides and operates at For an uplifting lunchtime experience, attend a free recital least a dozen walks at one of London’s lovely churches. You could catch an every day. Intriguing up-and-coming soloist, a touring choir, or a student afternoon offerings ensemble from one of the prestigious conservatories. include Legal and Illegal St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square, where Handel

14 To find more guided walks in London, check out www.elondon.dk.com once performed, has been hosting lunchtime concerts for Revive at Porchester Spa 50 years. St James’s () and St Mary-le-Bow and Queensway, W2 (see p170) St Brides (both in the City) are others. (See also p169.) This original Art Deco spa offers pampering on a shoestring. Relax and revitalize in its Turkish hot rooms, Off to the Football Russian steam rooms, Jacuzzi and pool for under £20, Hackney Marshes • £ Homerton • 020 8986 8615 or indulge in a body treatment from as little as £10. Forget Arsenal, Chelsea, Spurs or even Fulham. To see To save your blushes, there are specific days for men, what English football was about before corporate spon- women and mixed couples. sors and inflated wages, head for Hackney Marshes on a Sunday. There you’ll find 87 full-size pitches – the largest concentration in . The quality of ’‘footie” skills is patchy and diverse, but passions run as high as at any Premiership game.

A Sunday Roast Recent years have seen a resurgence in the traditional English “Sunday Roast” – a joint of beef, lamb or pork, with roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, veg and gravy. London’s gastropubs offer some good updated versions of the meal, which can be washed down with a decent ale or lager. Try the Lansdowne Sunday Double Bills at the Electric (see p51); The House in (see p49); or Electric Cinema (Map 6 D3; see p123) The Lock Tavern (see p152), which sources its meat Don’t wait for a rainy afternoon to slope off to the from London’s finest butchers. restored Edwardian splendour of the Electric Cinema. The Sunday Double Bill is excellent value. Book a Afternoon Tea 2-seater sofa to see the picture, and have brunch before Sketch: 9 Conduit St (Map 8 D3), 0870 777 4488; Inn the Park, the screening at the Electric Brasserie. St James’s Park (9 F5), 020 7451 9999; The Wolseley (see p32) For alternatives to the chintz and hushed tones that ’s Galleries accompany tea in the posh hotels, try The Parlour at www.newexhibitions.com Sketch, with its minimalist Louis XIV furniture and arty Any afternoon between little pastries. For a more afternoon tea, book at Thursday and Sunday is good The Wolseley. On a fine day, take tea at Inn the Park or for visiting the substantial the Orangery in (see p170). clutch of contemporary art galleries in East London. Have a trawl through listings on the new exhibitions web- site, or pick up a printed copy (with map) at the first gallery you see. Aside from those in Hoxton (see p162), check out galleries near Victoria Park (nearest Tube: Bethnal Green), which primarily showcase up-and-coming artists from the UK and Europe. Look out for Vilma Gold, Wilkinson Gallery and the Showroom; and don’t miss The Approach (art upstairs, pub downstairs). For contact info, see p225.

Most commercial art galleries in London are closed on Mondays 15 TOP CHOICES – evening

London notches up a gear in the early evening as everyone streams out of work and heads to the myriad pubs, bars and restaurants. A prevailing mood of fitting it all in before last orders gives evening London a very buzzy feel, as a 10 o’clock stroll through partying crowds in will attest. Although central London is packed with entertainments, many Londoners prefer the less in-your-face vibe in neighbourhoods at the edges of the central zone. , Islington and Notting Hill have great restaurants, pubs and cultural venues that are well worth seeking out, while in East London, you’ll find a blossoming scene that caters to a hip, arty crowd. The city has an undeniable pub culture, but a quieter, more sophisticated London does exist; you just need to look a little bit harder to find it.

Down the Pub much what you get on Friday and Saturday evenings, See pp134–5 for our selection of the best pubs in the city when Tate Modern is open until 10pm. The decorative Old favourites for after-work drinks include Soho haunts arts museum, the V&A, is open until 10pm on such as the Coach & Horses (29 Greek St), the Dog & Wednesdays, and on the last Friday of every month a Duck (18 Bateman St) the Sun & Thirteen Cantons (21 special late event is staged: everything from high fash- Great Pulteney St), and Covent Garden’s Lamb & Flag ion to turntablists can be seen among the ancient art. (see p137), where patrons spill out onto the street on It’s truly atmospheric. summer evenings. Clerkenwell Green (Map 10 A1) is another superb spot for an evening’s drinking; the A Stroll in Hyde Park Three Kings, Crown Tavern, Horseshoe and Dovetail are 1 Hyde Park Corner (Map 8 C5) all situated around a pleasant square. After the last With the late evening sun casting long shadows over orders bell rings, the drinkers the bars either to the grass, this is a lovely time to take a walk in any of head home or to move on to clubland. London’s central parks. Hyde Park in particular draws strollers, picnickers and sporty types, who make use of Museum Late-Nights long summer evenings for ad-hoc games of baseball or Tate Modern (see p111); V&A (see p102) football. End your walk at the Blue Bar, across busy Having the cavernous converted Bankside Power (see p142), or seek out the Nag’s Head Station to yourself is a real luxury, and that’s pretty (see p141), one of two great pubs on Kinnerton Street.

Greyhound Racing Stadium (see p126) “Going down the dogs” has made a comeback as a top night out, and “The Stow” – an Art Deco classic – is the place to go. Six greyhounds run 400- and 800-metre races, chasing a fake rabbit that zips along a rail; you can bet on any dog, but not the rabbit, alas. Punters quaff pints and eat scampi’n’chips in the Popular Enclosure, or sup wine and dine on steaks above the track in the Paddock Grill. Either way, the focus of the evening is on betting – but with stakes starting as low as 50p, the excursion need not cost you a mint.

16 Check show times and ticket prices at www.elondon.dk.com Early Club Nights Oysters and Champagne www..com Bibendum Oyster Bar at The Conran Shop (see p78); The Social on Little Portland Street (see p140) was one Randall & Aubin: 16 Brewer St, W1 (Map 9 E3) of the first London venues to offer easy-going Sunday Start your evening with a flourish! The Fulham Road afternoon events. Now several club sessions kick off Conran Shop is open until 7pm three nights a week, as early as 5pm every weekend. Check out 93 Feet allowing an afternoon’s shopping to drift seamlessly into East (see p148), Cherry Jam (see p141), the Notting Hill an evening’s light indulgence at the Bibendum Oyster Arts Club (see p144) and Cargo (see p146). Bar. Over in Soho, Randall & Aubin provides a vibrant, Parisian atmosphere in which to enjoy some crustacea and bubbly and set yourself up for a fun night out.

Great British Comedy www.chortle.co.uk London’s comedy clubs are lively affairs, with the banter swinging between performers of all descriptions and fre- quently raucous audiences. The Comedy Store (see p121) and Jongleurs (see p128) are established venues, but it’s worth investigating the comedy pubs (see website above), where the atmosphere is often a tad more spiky. A Pint and a Play Old Red Lion: 418 St John St (Map 4 A4); King’s Head (see p127); Orange Tree: 1 Clarence Street • £ Richmond Dark, creaking spaces in the back rooms of pubs provide the most intimate of performance venues for up-and- coming playwrights, actors on the fringe of the fringe and even a big name sometimes. Islington has several theatre bars, including the Old Red Lion and the King’s Head, the oldest theatre pub in London. In Richmond (about 30 minutes by Tube or train from central London), the Orange Tree is a wonderful theatre in the round. South Bank Promenade Evening Cocktails From Waterloo to Shad Thames (see also p164) Fifth Floor Restaurant, Harvey Nichols (Map 14 B1); The South Bank riverside path is relatively free of crowds No.1 (see p136); Blue Bar (see p142) on weekdays before sunset. Walking eastwards, you’ll With Harvey Nichols open until 8pm on Wednesdays, it pass the National Theatre, Tate Modern and GLA would be a crime not to take advantage of - building. At dusk, the city takes on a golden hue, with ful bar at its Fifth Floor Canada Tower blazing orange on the eastern skyline. Restaurant. The hotel Lobby Bar at No.1 Cutting-Edge Culture at the ICA Aldwych is excellent for ICA, The Mall (see p96) cocktails and classy Occupying a regal John Nash terrace, the Institute of . For maximum Contemporary Arts is a wellspring of the avant-garde style, though, saunter within a stone’s throw of Buckingham Palace. Two tiny over to the Blue Bar in cinemas feature art-house and foreign-language films. Knightsbridge, where There are talks and music events in the evenings, and a celebrities socialize. lively bar that stays open pretty late.

17 TOP CHOICES – night

Glamorous, cultured, raucous, seedy… After dark, the pulses with nightlife in many guises. Soho is the nocturnal epicentre, with a high concentration of places to eat and drink. Pubs are packed to capacity, spill- ing out onto the narrow streets, and all-night cafés offer a ringside view of unfolding dramas. The pubs may close early (11pm), but, if you’re prepared to pay a cover charge, the evening doesn’t have to end there. Soak up the cool vibe at a quintessential jazz joint, catch a risqué cabaret, or head east for switched-on . Londoners often counteract alcoholic excesses with a fiery curry, or a salt beef bagel at the all-night bakery in Brick Lane. For more refined entertainments, the arts complex on the South Bank may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it is unrivalled for cultural events.

programme of classical, contemporary and world music and dance. Although currently closed for refurbishment, the and the remain open and resident orchestras will play there instead.

Candlelit Visits Dennis Severs’ House (Mon; see p104); Sir John Soane’s Museum (first Tue of month; see p97) Two of the most curious and atmospheric houses in London both offer candlelit viewings. The aim is to recreate the mood of the past, when flickering yellow light and darting shadows characterised the ambience in these houses. In the light of a flame, Soane’s classical The London Eye at Sunset sculptures seem to shimmer and shake, and the building 0870 5000 600, www.ba-londoneye.com (Map 9 G5) seems even more labyrinthine. At Dennis Severs’ Open 9:30am–10pm summer, 9:30am–8pm winter House, the candlelight enhances an atmosphere already A glass capsule on the world’s largest observation strong with scents of fruit and lavender, and the ghostly wheel is the perfect vantage point for watching the sound of voices, seemingly in the next room. sun set over London’s landmarks, as you gently revolve at a speed of 0.26 m (about 10 inches) per second. Clubbing in & Clerkenwell From the top, at 135 m (443 ft), the view Shoreditch and Clerkenwell currently have London’s stretches 25 miles in every direction – as far as best concentration of dance clubs. At the hardcore Windsor Castle. As darkness falls, illuminated buildings and house end of the spectrum is including St Paul’s Cathedral and the Houses of (see p146). (see p145) charts a funkier path, with Parliament create a romantic panorama. Craig Richards at the decks, joined by guests such as Roots Manuva. It also hosts regular live Concerts on the South Bank nights. Club 333 (see p147) gets really wild on , South Bank SE1 (Map 9 H4), 0870 401 8181 Saturdays, joining forces with its upstairs neighbour www.rfh.org.uk (see also p129) Mother for some trippy trance or jazz-inflected house As well as showcasing two resident orchestras, the rhythms. For an easy-going vibe and inventive musical London Philharmonic and the Philharmonia Orchestra, concoctions, you can’t beat Herbal (see p147), especial- the 3,000-seat Royal Festival Hall presents a diverse ly on an Eastern Drum and Breaks night.

18 Keep track of clubbing trends in London with www.elondon.dk.com Bagels and Curries on Brick Lane Brick Lane Beigel Bake: 159 Brick Lane; Café Naz: 46–8 Brick Lane, 020 7247 0234; City : 138 Brick Lane, 020 7247 1012; Le Taj: 134 Brick Lane, 020 7247 4210 (Maps 5 F5 & 11 F1) The yellow and red sign of the Beigel Bake marks a little gathering point throughout the day and night (it’s open 24 hours) for everyone from cabbies picking up a quick snack to old Jewish residents of the area to clubbers getting a bite to eat in the early hours. You can buy a freshly baked bagel, with classic fillings such as salt beef and or smoked salmon and cheese, for less than £2. Brick Lane is also famous for its curry houses. You’ll find better Indian cuisine Late Night Jazz elsewhere, but the lively atmosphere along this narrow Ronnie Scott’s: 47 Frith Street (see p121); strip of road, with its bright neon signage, makes up Jazz Café: 5 Parkway (see p127) for culinary shortfalls. As a stomach-filler after a few Ronnie Scott’s in Soho is the archetypal smoky jazz joint, drinks, an inexpensive curry at somewhere like with quirky, tiered seating, cramped tables, and photos Café Naz, City Spice or Le Taj is just the ticket. of the legends who’ve played there covering every inch (For more on Brick Lane, see p160.) of wall . Further north, in Camden, the Jazz Café is slicker and more spacious, the music is funkier and Espresso at the food is better. At both, it’s advisable to book a table. Bar Italia 22 Frith Street W1, DJ Bar-Hopping 020 7437 4520, Much of London’s dance music scene is now concentrat- www.baritaliasoho.co.uk ed in its DJ bars. Typically, such bars get going earlier Grab a seat outside this than clubs, at around 9pm, and close at 2–3am. The 24-hour Soho institu- music is eclectic, sometimes just creating a background tion, sip a strong vibe (as at the Medicine Bar and Lock Tavern, see pp150 espresso and watch the & 152). These bars attract a clientele in their 20s and circus go by. After the 30s. But at somewhere like Brixton’s Dogstar (see pubs and clubs close, p154), the crowd tends to be younger, mostly it’s jam-packed with 20-somethings, and the dancing is full-on at weekends. people who want to keep the party going – or soak up the alcohol with a panini. You never know whom you Late Night Screenings at the Ritzy might meet, but keep a firm grip on your bag or wallet. Brixton Oval (see p131), www.picturehouses.co.uk While most London cinemas have their final screenings The Whoopee Club at around 9pm, the Ritzy www.thewhoopeeclub.com keeps its lights on for The producers of this arty burlesque extravaganza put an 11:30pm showing on on regular shows at venues around London, with Fridays and Saturdays. themes such as Victorian valentines and 1940s film noir. Its programme includes Strippers in retro tasselled , contortionists and a good mix of main- camp cabaret acts perform and pose in postmodernist stream, independent tableaux. The audience gets into the spirit too, sporting and international films. outfits that rival the stars’ costumes.

New club nights are often advertised through flyers and posters in record shops or on the street 19 restaurants

London’s gastronomic scene is booming. The range of places to eat and the diversity of cuisines on offer are rivalled only by New York. The quality of cooking is some- thing to write home about, too, especially at top-end restaurants. Prices are high if you want to sample the work of famous chefs, but there are excellent choices in all price ranges if you know where to look and what to order. TOP CHOICES – restaurants

BEST BRITISH CUISINE ROMANTIC SETTINGS GASTROPUBS

Lindsay House The Cow 21 Romilly Street, W1 89 Westbourne Park Road, W2 Superlative service plus Richard You’ve seen the film, now hang out Corrigan’s inventive British/Irish with the hip young things of Notting cuisine equals a gourmet’s Hill in this characterful pub, which delight. (See p26) serves great food. (See p160)

Fish Central The Crown 149–51 Central Street, EC1 116 Cloudesley Road, N1 The setting may be sleek, but this Cheery, cosy and thoroughly City favourite serves up some of www.toptable.co.uk is a useful site relaxed, the Crown is the sort of the best (and best-value) fish and for listings, reviews and information place you go to for lunch and settle chips in town. (See p45) about London restaurants. into for a whole afternoon.(See p151)

Rules Andrew Edmunds The Eagle 35 Maiden Lane, WC2 46 Lexington Street, W1 159 Farringdon Road, EC1 London’s oldest restaurant is an Cramped it may be, but there’s The pub that started the gastropub atmospheric, Dickensian shrine to something unbeatably romantic phenomenon is still a frontrunner. perfect roast meats, game and about this long-established, friendly Tuck into great grills and chat with classic puddings. (See p30) Soho bistro. (See p24) the Clerkenwell crowd. (See p44)

St John Oxo Tower Restaurant, Some gastropubs are more restau- 26 St John Street, EC1 Bar & Brasserie rant than pub, and have prices that A stark former smokehouse Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 reflect this. Be prepared to book. provides a great setting for stripped- Sweeping views over the Thames down “nose to tail” eating. It’s provide a spectacular backdrop for carnivore . (See p46) fine dining. (See p54)

J Sheekey 28–32 St Martin’s Court, WC2 With its faultless food, seductive decor and effortless service, J Sheekey oozes class. A perfect venue for a discreet date. (See p31)

Odette’s The House 130 Regent’s Park Road, NW1 63–9 Road, N1 Awash with gilded mirrors and The quality of food at this superb candlelight, Odette’s is a great spot Islington gastropub puts most for contemporary food combined restaurants to shame. A must for with old-fashioned charm. (See p50) weekend brunch. (See p49)

22 Find reviews of thousands more London restaurants with www.elondon.dk.com TOP CHOICES – restaurants

AROUND THE WORLD A QUICK BITE ON THE CHEAP

Hakkasan Lisboa Patisserie Navarro’s 8 Hanway Place, W1 57 Golborne Road, W10 67 , W1 With an interior out of a design mag- Come to this vibrant Portuguese Bright and bustling, Navarro’s is one azine and heavenly food, Hakkasan place to sip strong coffee and nibble of the best spots in the capital to sets new standards for London’s prime pastries. (See p42) find authentic (and authentically Chinese restaurants. (See p27) priced) tapas. (See p28)

Tsunami Viet Hoa 5–7 Voltaire Road, SW4 70–72 Kingsland Road, E2 Super-stylish and one of London’s Don’t expect decorative frills; do most exquisite dining experiences, expect culinary thrills. The with magnificent Japanese- Vietnamese food at this Hoxton influenced food. (See p54) canteen is the real deal. (See p48)

The Providores/Tapa Room Café Emm 109 High Street, W1 44 Old Compton Street, W1 17 Frith Street, W1 Pan-global fusion food at its most Indulgent cakes and pastries to die Proof that it’s possible to get inventive. Snack and sip on the for are the primary draws at one of good, filling fare in a lively Soho ground floor, or go for a full blow- Soho’s oldest and best-loved classic atmosphere without breaking the out in the restaurant. (See p35) cafés. (See p26) bank. (See p25)

Brick Lane, in the East End, is good for Paul Ta s a late-night curry (see p19). However, for 29 Bedford Street, WC2 33 The Cut, SE1 authentic, ultra-cheap Indian food, hop on A little slice of Paris in London. Pop A lively vibe, contemporary setting, a train west to Southall, the heart of in to Paul for toothsome tarts, flans, willing service, and affordable London’s Punjabi community. galettes and salads, and plenty of Turkish grills and meze. (See p53) Gallic bonhomie. (See p29)

Moro Conveyor-belt restaurants 34–6 , EC1 such as Yo! Sushi and Itsu offer a Embracing the best of North African healthy form of . and Spanish cuisine, this ever-hip eaterie makes ta virtue out of simplicity. (See p44)

Mô S&M Café 23 Heddon Street, W1 268 Portobello Road, W10 Take tea and sample choice North Superlative sausages, mash and African snacks in this Ali Baba’s gravy are served in various cave of a café, which is more . First-rate comfort food at Marrakesh than . (See p34) bargain-basement prices. (See p42)

Gastropubs are pubs that serve good, sometimes excellent, modern cuisine 23 Restaurants

Andrew Edmunds modern European 9 E3 46 Lexington Street, W1 • 020 7437 5708 Open lunch & dinner daily Dark and discreet, this long-time Soho stalwart is a seductive spot for contemporary cuisine. The crowd- pleasing food embraces the classics, such as a perfect lamb steak with flageolet beans. Seating is a bit cramped, and the room can be noisy, but the service is breezily relaxed. Moderate

Bodean’s North American barbecue 9 E3 10 Poland Street, W1 • 020 7287 7575 www.bodeansbbq.com Restaurant open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, noon–11pm Sat; diner open all day

Billing itself as “London’s Original BBQ Smoke House”, Bodean’s is a classy US-style barbecue, featuring prime char-grilled steaks, racks of baby back ribs and smoked chicken. The ground floor is a casual eat-in/takeaway sports bar; the basement is more formal. Moderate

Donzoko rare Japanese delights 9 E3 15 Kingly Street, W1 • 020 7734 1974 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat This modest Japanese eaterie is one of Soho’s hidden gems. It’s a friendly, bustling izakaya-style joint (an informal pub-restaurant), with a counter along one side and a long menu taking in all the greatest hits of Japanese cuisine. The aubergine fried with and soybean paste is sublime. Cheap

Mar i Terra superior Spanish 9 E3 17 Air Street, W1 • 020 7734 1992 www.mariterra.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, noon–11pm Sat

Spanish food can move with the times. The décor here is clean and contemporary; the service cheery and unfussy. The menu lists Iberian classics alongside more unusual delights, such as stuffed peppers with crab, and Catalan grilled vegetable salad. Cheap

24 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Wong Kei legendary cheap Chinese 9 E3 41–43 Wardour Street, W1 • 020 7437 8408 Open noon–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun) A capacious restaurant with oddly decorated rooms on many floors, Wong Kei revels in its reputation of having the rudest service in Chinatown. And yet it continues to pull in the punters thanks to a lively atmosphere, seriously low prices and unexpectedly fine roast meats. Great fun with a crowd. Cheap

Thyme Covent Garden sophistication 9 G2 The Hospital, Endell St, WC2 • 020 7170 9200 www.thymeandspace.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The transfer of the highly acclaimed Restaurant from South London to Covent Garden’s hospital site has transformed the operation into an altogether more sophisticated affair with beautifully crafted dishes, grown-up surroundings and superb service. Expensive

ECapital Chinatown oasis 9 F3 8 Gerrard Street, W1 • 020 7434 3838 Open noon–11:30pm daily (to midnight Fri & Sat) Few Chinatown restaurants offer distinctive cuisine, but ECapital is an exception: here you’ll find a rare high- quality offering of rich-sweet-oily food from China’s east coast. It’s worth asking the staff to translate the Chinese menu to find the most interesting dishes, such as “lion’s head meatball casserole”. Cheap

Café Emm hearty international fodder 9 F3 17 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7437 0723 www.cafeemm.com Open lunch & dinner daily (to 11:30pm Fri & Sat)

It’s hard to beat Café Emm for value, atmosphere and good, filling grub. Dishes include cajun potato skins, deep-fried brie, hearty lamb shanks, calamari, pecan and tiramisu, and all come in huge portions, served up by smiling staff in a fun environment. Cheap

Expensive: over £15 for a main course; moderate: £8–15; cheap: under £8 25 Restaurants

Lindsay House modern British 9 F3 21 Romilly Street, W1 • 020 7439 0450 www.lindsayhouse.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Irishman Richard Corrigan is a real chef’s chef – while many of his peers play the media game, he sticks resolutely to fashioning imaginative dishes in the kitchen. The results show just how good creative British/Irish cuisine can be in the right hands. The restaurant, set in a 1740s Georgian townhouse, is as understated as the man himself. Ring the bell to be let in, and you’ll be shown to one of various small dining spaces. The gracious staff might be serving up globe artichoke, Cornish crab and dressing, followed perhaps by saddle of rabbit, black pudding, polenta and confit garlic, and then glazed apple turnover with caramel and prunes to finish. If your wallet can bear the strain, consider the seven-course tasting menu in order to sample Corrigan’s finest creations. Expensive

Patisserie Valerie café for cakes 9 F3 44 Old Compton Street, W1 • 020 7437 3466 www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk Open 7:30am–8:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am–9pm Sat, 9am–7pm Sun

A Soho legend, the original Patisserie Valerie opened in neighbouring Frith Street in 1926 and moved to Old Compton Street after World War II. The cramped interior is a 1950s Parisian time warp, with a cake-stuffed glass counter at the front, a high ceiling, Formica tables and Toulouse-Lautrec cartoons on the walls; there’s also a brighter, airier 50-seat first-floor café. Snacks, light meals and a fine breakfast are served, but it’s the sweet stuff that’s the main draw. Resis- tance is useless against the likes of pear william franzipan tart, mixed berry mousse, fresh fruit flan, and chocolate, strawberry and banana gateaux – not to mention the handmade truffles. Such indulgences and Valerie’s unique atmosphere draw in a mixed crowd of local office workers, students, tourists and the few remaining louche Soho habitués. Cheap

26 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Red Fort noble Indian 9 F3 77 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7437 2115 www.redfort.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat For top-notch traditional northern Indian cooking in central London, you can’t beat the Red Fort. The opulent setting (including a water feature) helps prepare you for the richness and depth of Mughal court cuisine. Chef Mohammed Rais’ lamb biriani follows a 300-year-old family recipe. Expensive

Eagle Bar Diner North American 9 F2 3–5 Rathbone Place, W1 • 020 7637 1418 www.eaglebardiner.com Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat (to 1am Thu–Sat), 11am–6pm Sun

A hip, all-day haven from the chaos of . The Eagle’s remit stretches from breakfast to late- night cocktails, taking in first-rate burgers and grills, salads and sandwiches along the way. The look is New York chic, but the service is friendly. Cheap

Hakkasan Chinese of the highest order 9 F2 8 Hanway Place, W1 • 020 7907 1888 Open lunch & dinner daily; bar noon–12:30am daily (to 1:30 Sat) It’s no exaggeration to say that Hakkasan has redefined Chinese dining in London – combining stunning design with exceptional high-quality Chinese cuisine. This airy basement restaurant and bar is the creation of Alan Yau, the man behind (see p43), but couldn’t be more different from the noodle bar chain in terms of atmosphere (and prices). The seductive interior is a cunning contemporary take on chinoiserie – all dark wood, lattice work and candle light. The Michelin-star-winning food shows off the full range and depth of China’s varied cuisines. Savour beautifully balanced dishes such as roast pork with red rice, and Shao Hsing wine, or roasted silver cod with champagne and Chinese honey. Even clichéd standards such as prawn toast are exemplary. Prices are high, but for a splurge you can’t beat Hakkasan. Expensive

Lunch at London restaurants is typically served noon–3pm; dinner 6:30pm–10:30pm 27 Restaurants

Rasa Samudra Keralan home cooking 9 E1 5 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7637 0222 www.rasarestaurants.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun

Das Sreedharan has firmly placed the delicate cuisine of Kerala in southwest India on the London restaurant map. The first Rasa (55 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16) opened in 1994, specializes in Keralan vegetarian cooking. Rasa W1 (6 Dering Street) offers a range of dishes, including meat, from northern Kerala; and the speciality at this branch is seafood. In a maze of smart, pink-clad little rooms, you can experience such little-seen delights as murukku (crunchy rice-flour sticks) with home-made pickles and chutneys, Keralan shellfish soup, crab thoran (the chef’s grandmother’s recipe for crab stir-fried with coconut, mustard seeds and ginger) and kappayum meenum (spicy king fish and steamed cassava). If you can’t make up your mind, order a set feast, either seafood or vegetarian. Moderate

Fino modern tapas 9 E2 33 Charlotte St, W1 (entrance: Rathbone St) • 020 7813 8010 www.finorestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Sleek, sassy and contemporary, Fino is a light, airy tapas restaurant and cocktail bar in which tortilla, Galician-style octopus and other classics are cooked with conviction and presented with flair. It has fine sherries and a globe-trotting wine list. Moderate

Navarro’s traditional Spanish 9 E1 67 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7637 7713 www.navarros.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat The interior is a riot of Andalucian tiling and painted furniture, while the menu features some of the capital’s most unusual Spanish dishes. Savour, for example, the velvety, piquant grilled chicken with prawns in an oloroso sherry and sauce. This gem of a place is favoured by many hispanophile Londoners. Cheap

28 To locate London’s vegetarian restaurants, check www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Sardo pasta & other Italian classics 9 E1 45 Grafton Way, W1 • 020 7387 2521 www.sardo-restaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

No-nonsense, squeaky-fresh Sardinian specialities are presented in a bright, simply decorated space. Try the likes of spaghetti bottariga (with dried mullet roe) or grilled steak topped with Sardinian blue cheese, served by delightful, knowledgeable staff. Moderate

Matsuri Japanese fun 9 H2 71 High , WC1 • 020 7430 1970 www.matsuri-restaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat The team behind the acclaimed Matsuri in St James’s opened this more modern sister restaurant in 2002. The sashimi (raw fish) and teppanyaki (grills) are as authentically Japanese as you’ll find in London. If you’re on a budget, try a lunchtime bento box; otherwise, the set menus are excellent. Expensive

Rock and Sole Plaice fish & chips 9 G3 47 Endell Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3785 Open 11am–11:30pm Mon–Sat, noon–11pm Sun Founded in 1871, this Covent Garden fish and chip shop has been run for the past 25 years by a Turkish Cypriot, though the menu is traditional British. Expect crisp, golden slabs of fish accompanied by mounds of chunky chips and mugs of steaming tea. You can eat in, sit at pavement tables in summer or take away. Cheap

Paul French-style café 9 G3 29 Bedford Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3304 www.paul.fr Open 7:30am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9–9 Sat & Sun You’ll find no more agreeable lunch stop around Covent Garden than this exemplary Gallic patisserie/ café. Exquisite breads, cakes, tarts and flans are sold in the shop, or you can enjoy big salads, omelettes or tartines (toasted bread with toppings) from the elegant café at the rear. Cheap

A great place to enjoy a snack from Paul’s café is St Paul’s Churchyard, just off Bedford Street 29 Restaurants

Rules British through & through 9 G3 Victorian era, , who was himself a 35 Maiden Lane, WC2 • 020 7836 5314 regular at this restaurant. However, what prevents www.rules.co.uk Rules being a mere Dickensian pastiche are the Open noon–11:30pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun) slickness of its service and the supreme standard of Open continuously since 1798, and owned by just its food. The menu is carnivore heaven, and one of three families since then, Rules in Covent Garden is the few places in London where you can sample the capital’s oldest restaurant and it positively drips superb game – especially wild duck and pheasant – with history. Venerable diners have included William much of which comes from Rules’ own estate, Makepeace Thackeray, Evelyn Waugh, Graham Lartington Hall Park, in the High Pennines. (You can Greene, Charlie Chaplin and Clark Gable. sign up for a shooting party or fishing at the estate, The interior is a Victorian fantasy, with chandeliers if you already have experience.) and spectacular coloured-glass skylights illuminating Don’t believe there’s such a thing as high-quality walls lined with dark wood and crimson banquettes. traditional British cuisine? An indulgent meal here of, Everywhere you look are portraits, pastoral scenes say, hare soup with armagnac, or Morecambe Bay and animal trophies characteristic of the style of potted shrimps, or roast young grouse with celeriac grand English country houses. The restaurant is and damson sauce, or fillet of Highland venison with particularly beautiful over Christmas, decked out in wild mushrooms and Chartreuse sauce is guaranteed traditional ornaments. Altogether, there are three to change your mind. Round off the experience with floors and several private dining rooms. One of the sticky toffee pudding oozing butterscotch and rooms is named after the best-known author of the custard, or apple and blackberry crumble. Expensive

30 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Hazuki mid-range Japanese 9 G4 43 Chandos Place, WC2 • 020 7240 2530 www.sushihazuki.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

Hazuki nimbly the gap between pricey, formal Japanese restaurants and casual sushi bars. Its look is contemporary, its staff efficient, its food exemplary. Lunch dishes – such as grilled belly pork with rice and soup – are particularly good value. Moderate

J Sheekey fish, & simple 9 F3 28–32 St Martin’s Court, WC2 • 020 7240 2565 www.caprice-holdings.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily (to midnight)

If you despair of ever getting a table at The Ivy (see p34), fear not: its sister restaurant offers just as seductive a setting, sublime food and lovely service. The emphasis is on fish, and the ethos is to keep it simple. You won’t find a finer in London. Expensive

Cecconi’s established Italian venue 9 E4 5A Burlington Gardens, W1 • 020 7434 1500 Open 8am–11pm Mon–Fri, 9am–11pm Sat, 9am–10pm Sun A sleek thoroughbred of a restaurant, Cecconi’s man- ages to be both serious and fun, stylish yet relaxed. Though it’s been around for decades, thoughtful renovation has breathed new life into an old favourite. The great cocktail menu survives, as does classic Italian food using the freshest ingredients. Expensive

Le Caprice classy comfort food 9 E4 Arlington House, Arlington Street, SW1 • 020 7629 2239 www.caprice-holdings.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily

Le Caprice has been a famous name on the London dining scene for decades. There’s a 1980s monochrome bistro look to the décor, but the slick service and modern European dishes never disappoint. Their fish and chips with mushy peas is heavenly. Expensive

31 Restaurants

The Wolseley fashionable all-day haunt 9 E4 café, with a high vaulted ceiling, black-and-white tiled 160 Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7499 6996 floor and lashings of gilt and black coating the walls. www.thewolseley.com Highly professional staff serve up the type of reliable Open 7am–midnight Mon–Fri, 9am–midnight Sat & Sun mix-and-match international dishes that will be (breakfast to 11:30am) familiar to anyone who’s managed to bag a table at Chris Corbin and Jeremy King are the talented double Le Caprice or The Ivy in the past, though there’s an act behind the sustained success of the exclusive Ivy additional hearty Central European slant here to (see p34) and Le Caprice (see p31) over the past match the surroundings. decade or so. Their involvement with these twin pillars You could go for a spicy steak tartare, earthy of the fashionable London preening-and-dining scene cassoulet (meaty bean stew) or a superior hamburger, may now be over, but their newest venture has become or head east for a wiener schnitzel, a Hungarian just as essential a stop on the celebrity circuit. goulash or a German pancake-based dish called The Wolseley occupies the opulent 1920s former Kaiserschmarren. Perhaps the Wolseley’s greatest showroom of the eponymous car manufacturer. It has strength, however, is that it’s open all day, even been made over to resemble a grand Mittel-European offering breakfast and afternoon tea. Expensive

32 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Kiku exceptionally good Japanese 8 D4 17 Half Moon Street, W1 • 020 7499 4208 www.kikurestaurant.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun

Decked out in light wood and with artful flower arrange- ments, this smart restaurant is a utilitarian stage for virtuoso Japanese cuisine. The sushi is exemplary, as is agedashi-dofu (deep-fried tofu and dried fish in a broth with grated ginger and Japanese radish). Expensive

Tamarind tandoori as it should be 8 D4 20 Queen Street, W1 • 020 7629 3561 www.tamarindrestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

This Michelin-starred restaurant shows just how varied and refined good Indian food can be. The menu’s heart is the tandoor oven, stalwart of north- west India, from which emerge stunning meats, game, fish and breads. Service is impeccable. Expensive

Kaya rare Korean 8 D4 42 Albemarle Street, W1 • 020 7499 0622 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat The classiest of London’s Korean restaurants is a serene spot in which to experience the subtleties of this under-appreciated cuisine. Grilling your own food on a tabletop griddle is fun, or you can rely on the traditionally dressed staff to recommend piquant dishes seldom encountered outside Korea. Moderate

Patara Thai taste of Thailand 8 D3 3 & 7 Maddox Street, W1 • 020 7499 6008 Open lunch & dinner daily The handful of London branches of this upmarket Thai restaurant group offer an impressively authentic overview of one of Asia’s most versatile cuisines. Enjoy dishes such as black cod broth with ginger, or chicken and pork dumplings, against a restful backdrop of greenery and Thai antiques. Moderate

33 Restaurants

Al Sultan Middle Eastern delicacies 8 C5 51–52 Hertford Street, W1 • 020 7408 1155/1166 www.alsultan.co.uk Open noon–midnight daily For a taste of just how good high-class Lebanese cuisine can be, head for this discreet Mayfair restau- rant near Hyde Park Corner. The chargrilled meats are superb, while the magnificent meze is thoroughly authentic, right down to the range of offal offered. Beid ghanam – lamb’s testicles – anyone? Moderate

Mômo/Mô Moroccan restaurant/tearoom 9 E3 23 Heddon Street, W1 • 020 7434 4040 www.momoresto.com Restaurant open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun; tearoom open all day Mon–Sat

Mourad Mazouz’s fabulously theatrical restaurant, Mômo, is an expensive treat, but you can also enjoy a similar ambience next door in a tearoom-cum-bazaar. Sip a mint tea or a fresh fruit juice while nibbling on excellent sandwiches and meze. Expensive/Cheap

Golden Hind perfect fish & chips 8 C2 73 Marylebone Lane, W1 • 020 7486 3644 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat The finest chippie in W1 has been serving up prime fish and chips since 1914. Bring your own booze (no corkage charge) and make an evening of it, with a big portion of moist, flaky haddock or cod, thinly coated in crisp batter, alongside perfect chips, mushy peas and home-made tartare sauce. Bliss. Cheap

The Hottest Tables in Town Oliver’s much-publicised Fifteen; The Ivy, still the London’s premier restaurants are world-class. The posh bistro of choice for most celebrities; even problem for ordinary mortals is securing a table. It’s more fashionable Nobu, with its superb Japanese just possible that if you call on the day you might fusion menu; quite possibly London’s finest strike lucky; otherwise, you’ll need to book months restaurant, Gordon Ramsay; and certainly the in advance. Among these hallowed temples of capital’s most expensive dining spot, gloriously gastronomy are: Locanda Locatelli, the superlative over-the-top Sketch. For all restaurant contact Italian run by the ebullient Giorgio Locatelli; Jamie details, see pp220–1.

34 To find out about the intricacies of tipping, check www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Providores/Tapa Room international 8 C1 109 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 6175 www.theprovidores.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily (brunch Sat & Sun); Tapa Room 9am–10:30pm daily (from 10am Sat & Sun)

New Zealander Peter Gordon helped introduce the concept of “fusion” food to London when he opened the much-lauded Sugar Club (see p25) in 1995. He remains one of the few chefs capable of consistently marrying diverse, pan-global ingredients harmoniously. The good work continues at the Providores, a tiny, simple dining space with an agreeably relaxed vibe, and a regularly changing menu that might include pork cheek braised with five spice, and Turkish chilli on chorizo mash with pickled okra, or roast New Zealand venison on black bean and choco- late stew with roast celeriac, green beans and quince aïoli. The ground-floor Tapa Room is a combination of wine bar, breakfast bar and tapas bar. The “Tapa” in question, though, is a ceremonial cloth used for celebratory feasts throughout the Pacific. Expensive

The Orrery modern European/French 8 C1 55 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7616 8000 www.orrery.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily Of all Sir Terence Conran’s London restaurants, the Orrery is probably the classiest act (it is also very expensive). This is a long, light, elegant dining space with arched windows overlooking Marylebone Parish Church gardens. The largely Gallic waiting staff are extremely attentive and happy to talk you through the French-leaning menu. An indulgent evening here might commence with seared sea scallops, pork belly and cauliflower, moving on to fillet of Scottish beef with slow-cooked oxtail, salsify (oyster plant) and red wine jus, before ending with a fondant of Amedei chocolate with milk ice cream. If you fancy something less than a full meal, head for the Orrery Epicerie (on the corner of Marylebone High Street and Beaumont Street), to find tasty breakfasts, light lunches and snacks, plus delicatessen products to take away. Expensive

In London’s top restaurants, prices are more accessible for lunch than dinner 35 Restaurants

Phoenix Palace a Chinese treat 8 B1 3–5 Glentworth Street, NW1 • 020 7486 3515 Open noon–11:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am–10:30pm Sun You need to venture beyond Chinatown to find London’s best Chinese food. This smart Marylebone restaurant is one of the finest – as the number of Cantonese clients here testifies. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the monthly specials menu. The soup of the day is reliably tasty. Cheap

Original Tagines North African 8 B2 7A Dorset Street, W1 • 020 7935 1545 www.originaltagines.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, all day Sat & Sun

If the scented, sweet-savoury allure of North African cuisine has passed you by, visit this restaurant. The eponymous tagines are excellent (and come in 11 versions – try the chicken with preserved lemon), as are the couscous dishes and grills. Moderate

La Galette French crêpes 8 C1 56 Street, W1 • 020 7935 1554 www.lagalette.com Open 9am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10am–11pm Sat & Sun

An authentic Breton crêperie brings the thrifty delights of crêpes and galettes to a pricey part of town. Fill your cup with strong cider and dig in to a galette complète (ham, cheese, egg), followed by an indulgent crêpe with chestnut cream and crème Chantilly. Cheap

Maroush Gardens Middle Eastern 8 A3 1–3 Connaught Street, W2 • 020 7262 0222 Branch: 21 Edgware Road • 020 7723 0773 www.maroush.com Open all day (noon–midnight) daily

This classy, sober spot is one of Marouf Abouzaki’s newer additions to the Maroush chain, and special- izes in fish, though the classic Lebanese meze and grills are equally fine. The atmosphere is a little more refined than at livelier sibling Maroush I. Moderate

36 www.elondon.dk.com Centre & West

Cinnamon Club creative Indian 15 F1 Old Westminster Library, Great Smith St, SW1 • 020 7222 2555 www.cinnamonclub.com Open breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

A spacious library has been sensitively transformed into one of London’s finest Indian restaurants. The original parquet flooring remains, as do some of the bookshelves, but they’ve been augmented by marble and stone imported from Rajasthan to create a light- filled, spacious dining room. Vivek Singh’s menu combines Indian flavours with European culinary techniques, as, for instance, in the French-inspired use of sauce reductions. This results in exquisite dishes such as -smoked tartare of Charolais beef with pickled beetroot, tandoori breast of pheasant with spiced mushroom sauce, and -poached pear with ice cream. The restaurant’s proximity to the Houses of Parliament means that most of its clientele is curry-loving politicos and civil servants – but don’t let that put you off. Expensive

Foliage exquisite modern European 8 B5 Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1 • 020 7201 3723 www.mandarinoriental.com Open lunch & dinner daily

Some tables enjoy wonderful views out over Hyde Park, and the food is beyond reproach. Dishes such as roast saddle of rabbit, pithivier of wild mush- rooms, asparagus, Alsace bacon and vanilla cream will leave you stumbling for superlatives. Expensive

Patogh superior kebabs 8 A2 8 Crawford Place, W1 • 020 7262 4015 Open noon–midnight daily It’s little more than a hole in the wall, but Patogh offers the most richly satisfying chargrilled meats in London. Choose from one of seven types of kebab, squeeze around one of the handful of tables and feast on a massive round of fresh flat bread, squeaky- fresh salads and your meat of choice. Cheap

37 Restaurants

Noura meze to astonish 14 D1 16 Hobart Place, SW1 • 020 7235 9444 www.noura-brasseries.co.uk Open noon–11pm daily The glamorous atmosphere at this Lebanese restaurant reflects its posh location, but it’s far from stuffy, and the quality of the food is superb. Grilled meats don’t come any finer, while the range of hot and cold meze cannot help but impress, with around 50 choices on offer. Moderate

Hunan specialist Chinese 14 C3 51 Road, SW1 • 020 7730 5712 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat London’s only restaurant specializing in the spicy cuisine of China’s westernmost province is a pint-size treat. Leave your preconceptions about Chinese set meals at the door and let the staff put together a feast for you that you’ll long remember. The stuffed baby squid with bitter melon is supreme. Moderate

Zuma high-class sushi & more 14 A1 5 Raphael Street, SW7 • 020 7584 1010 www.zumarestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner daily Zuma aims to provide a sophisticated metropolitan take on traditional Japanese izakaya-style (informal pub) dining. This being Knightsbridge, the result is resolutely upmarket, though far from snobby. The large dining room is clad in soothing earth tones, with wood-slat screens dividing up the space. If you’re popping in on a whim, you can sit at the sushi counter and watch expert chefs whip up a California maki roll or some choice sashimi for you. Or pick something like salt-grilled sea bass with burnt tomato ginger relish from the robata grill. The full menu includes Zuma specials like baby chicken marinated in barley miso and oven-roasted in cedar wood. The freshness and quality of ingredients are exemplary. If you merely fancy a drink, there’s a lounge and sake bar, which offers more than 20 types of sake as well as cocktails. Expensive

38 www.elondon.dk.com West

Zafferano Italian greats 14 B1 15 Lowndes Street, SW1 • 020 7235 5800 Open lunch & dinner daily Zafferano has long been recognized as one of the capital’s premier Italian restaurants. It’s a discreet place, where the emphasis is firmly on the food. Dishes such as risotto with white truffle and char- grilled lamb with aubergine allow the quality of the ingredients to shine through. Expensive

Racine traditional French 14 A2 239 Brompton Road, SW3 • 020 7584 4477 Open lunch & dinner daily This hugely popular French restaurant has made a virtue out of simplicity. The décor is ascetically plain and the food is a glorious throwback to the days of classic Gallic cuisine. Expect succulent daubes (braised meat stews) and marmites (pot soups). For the quality of the food, prices are a steal. Moderate

Tom Aikens modern European creativity 14 A3 43 Elystan Street, SW3 • 020 7584 2003 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri Michelin-starred Tom Aikens made his name in the 1990s and is now undoubtedly one of the most gifted chefs working in London. The sober, masculine tones of the almost brutally plain décor of his eponymous restaurant leave diners in no doubt that this is a serious restaurant for serious foodies. Even if you balk at over-complex food, it’s hard not to admire the attention to detail and careful balancing of colour, texture and taste that distinguish his menu. A typical meal might start with -marinated scallops, courgettes and almond mousse, followed by pigeon steamed with thyme, chestnut velouté, cannelloni and soft lettuce, and crowned with pineapple roasted with vanilla and rum. If you can stretch to a blow-out, you won’t regret going for the tasting menu; those with smaller budgets can still eat like royalty with the set lunch. Expensive

The Evening Standard’s Thursday supplement, Metro, has good restaurant and bar reviews 39 Restaurants

Tendido Cero well-chosen tapas 13 G3 174 Old Brompton Road, SW5 • 020 7370 3685 www.cambiodetercio.com Open 11:30am–11pm daily Much of the tapas in London tend to be lacklustre, but not so at Tendido Cero. This smart, sleek sibling of upmarket Iberian stalwart Cambio de Tercio across the road serves up the choicest Spanish cheeses, hams and charcuterie. There’s no drinks licence, so you have to bring your own alcohol. Moderate

The Painted Heron Indian 13 H5 112 Cheyne Walk, SW10 • 020 7351 5232 www.thepaintedheron.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Yogesh Datta’s innovative, refined yet unfussy take on traditional Subcontinental cuisine is evident in dishes such as duck livers in tandoori , and spinach and partridge curry. The restaurant is as elegant and understated as the food. Moderate

Lots Road Pub gastropub 13 G5 114 Lots Road, SW10 • 020 7352 6645 Open 11am–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun) There may be a gastropub with airy, stripped-down décor on almost every corner these days, but this place remains one of the best. It’s the friendliness of the staff and the quality of the food that mark it out; the ingredients are supremely fresh. You won’t find a better burger in London. Moderate

Chutney Mary intimate Indian 13 G5 535 King’s Road, SW10 • 020 7351 3113 www.realindianfood.com Open lunch & dinner Sat & Sun, dinner only Mon–Fri

A stylish makeover of restaurant and menu confirmed Chutney Mary as both a beacon of Indian culinary excellence and a chic, romantic spot. The pan-Indian menu exploits the depth and range of the country’s cuisine, and service is impeccable. Expensive

40 To find restaurants with good disabled access, use www.elondon.dk.com West

The River Café inspirational Italian 12 A5 (see Fifteen on p34). The restaurant’s appeal remains Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 • 020 7386 4200 undimmed today. You do, though, pay heavily for the www.rivercafe.co.uk privilege, with few main courses under £25.The prices Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun and ambience are not café-style. No London restaurant has had more influence on both A typical spring menu might include char-grilled restaurant food and (with the spawning of five books) marinated leg of lamb with fresh borlotti beans, Swiss home cooking than the River Café. When Rose Gray and and rainbow chard, and anchovy and sauce. Ruth Rogers opened up in 1987, most Italian eateries The relatively stark, utilitarian dining space was de- were stuck in a 1970s candle-in-a-chianti-bottle time signed by architect Richard Rogers (Ruth’s husband) warp. Their versions of simple Italian regional dishes, within converted 19th-century warehouses. Its floor- carefully sourced and immaculately prepared, were to-ceiling windows give access to a garden and the revelatory, and inspired a string of talented chefs who river beyond. To enjoy the restaurant to the full, try to worked in their kitchen – Jamie Oliver among them book a table here in fine weather. Expensive

The Gate vegetarian 12 A3 51 Queen Caroline Street, W6 • 020 8748 6932 www.gateveg.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat For more than a decade, brothers Adrian and Michael Daniels have been running this classy, relaxed Hammersmith restaurant. The food they serve (aubergine schnitzel, Thai red curry) is so good that even devoted meat-eaters won’t feel hard done by. Ask for a table in the leafy courtyard. Moderate

The majority of London restaurants include at least one vegetarian dish on the menu 41 Restaurants

Lisboa Patisserie Portuguese café 6 C2 57 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8968 5242 Open 8am–8pm Mon–Sat, 8am–7pm Sun Today the heart of London’s sizeable Portuguese com- munity may be south of the river around and , but Notting Hill’s Golborne Road is home to one of the oldest and best-loved pastelarias in town. Such has been the success of Lisboa Patisserie that it has spawned a mini chain (currently numbering four branches) across the capital, but the original site is certainly the most fun to visit when the Portobello Road market (see p159) is in full swing. Portuguese cakes and tarts are the speciality, and come in an impressive range and at low prices; you won’t find better or more authentic cinnamon-topped pasteis de nata (custard tarts) in the city. Equally fabled are the de arroz (rice cakes) and the castanhas de ovo (literally, “egg chestnut”, a sweet, eggy nugget). Savouries are sold too – try the pasteis de bacalhau (salt cod and potato cakes). Cheap

S&M Café bangers ‘n’ mash 6 D3 268 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8968 8898 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Thu, 9am–11pm Fri–Sun Less is more at the Sausage & Mash Café, in terms of décor and menu. Choose your type of sausage (including veggie options), mash and gravy, and feast on the likes of wild boar sausages with calvados and apples, or pork sausages with bubble and squeak, mash and red onion gravy. Cheap

E&O Oriental in style 6 C3 14 Blenheim Crescent, W11 • 020 7229 5454 Open lunch & dinner daily This western sister to the Great Eastern Dining Room (see p48) is every bit as chic as its counterpart. It draws in the beautiful people of Notting Hill to preen, pout and gaze about while nibbling on the seriously tasty mix-and-match Oriental dishes. A great choice for vegetarians. Moderate

42 www.elondon.dk.com West

Al Waha Middle Eastern 7 E3 75 Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7229 0806 www.waha-uk.com Open noon–midnight daily This gracious restaurant offers some of the best Leb- anese food around town in modest, tranquil surround- ings (the name means “the oasis”). Vegetarians are well catered for in the list of almost 50 hot and cold meze, and it’s always worth trying the daily specials. The set meals are particularly good value. Moderate

Magic Wok cheap & cheerful Chinese 7 F3 100 Queensway, W2 • 020 7792 9767 Open noon–10:30pm daily Queensway has long been a centre for Chinese culinary excellence, and Magic Wok has been in its vanguard for many years. The décor is thoroughly undistinguished, but the food shines out. Stick to menu and you can’t go wrong; the rich, flavourful hot pot dishes are especially good. Cheap

Satay House traditional Malaysian 7 H2 13 Sale Place, W2 • 020 7723 6763 www.satayhouse.com Open lunch & dinner daily For toothsome, freshly cooked Malaysian food you can’t beat this modest little Paddington restaurant. A lively, multinational crowd head here for classic rice and noodle dishes, and such delicacies as deep-fried sea bass cooked in salted beans, and fermented durian fruit with anchovies and leaves. Cheap

Chain Restaurants Busaba Eathai. Venturing further west across the For conveyor-belt sushi head for Yo! Sushi or ven- globe, Masala Zone has done for Indian food what ture a little further upmarket at Itsu, where the belt Wagamama did for Japanese. Reaching Europe, you delivers up dishes from all over Southeast Asia. can’t beat for wood-fired pizza, pasta and Groundbreaking noodle bar group Wagamama is Italian staples. More unusual is idiosyncratic still the business for huge bowls of ramen (noodle Belgian moules-frites specialist , while the soup) in a canteen atmosphere, while there’s a dishes served at Giraffe span the world. For all more intimate vibe at pan-Oriental mini-chain restaurant details, see pp220–1.

You may have to queue at canteens and conveyor-belt restaurants such as Wagamama and Yo! Sushi 43 Restaurants

Moro Spanish & North African 4 A5 policy of letting the quality of fine ingredients shine 34–36 Exmouth Market, EC1 • 020 7833 8336 through in simple dishes. Their unique contribution www.moro.co.uk to both the concept and the London food scene Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat comes from applying these principles to an inspired (private functions only for Sat lunch & all day Sun) crossover of Spanish and North African cuisine (as Few restaurants have attracted plaudits as unanimous the name Moro, meaning “Moor” in Spanish, implies). and enthusiastic as those applied to Moro since it The results can be sampled in, say, a meal of ajo opened in 1997. Confusingly named husband-and- blanco (Spanish garlic and almond soup), followed wife team Sam and Sam Clark shared their culinary by quail baked in flatbread, with rosewater and schooling at the pioneering Eagle gastropub (see cardamom ice cream to finish. If you only want to below) just down the road, and also at the celebrated snack, tapas are available from the long zinc bar that River Café (see p41) in Hammersmith. From these two runs along one side of the casual though often gastronomic beacons they’ve adopted the sensible frenetically noisy dining room. Moderate

The Eagle the original gastropub 10 A1 159 Farringdon Road, EC1 • 020 7837 1353 Open all day from noon Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun Credited with starting the gastropub revolution that has now swept the country, The Eagle is still up there with the best of its progeny more than a decade later. Garrulous media folk pack out the tightly packed tables and feast on perfectly cooked rustic stomach- fillers and grilled meats. Moderate

44 www.elondon.dk.com City & East

Fish Central fish & chips in style 4 C5 149–51 Central Street, EC1 • 020 7253 4970 www.fishcentral.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat An oasis of value and charm in the overpriced and often unfriendly City, Fish Central was converted in 2003 from a takeaway with attached dining room into a swish, minimalist restaurant. Yet the prices are still low, the welcome cheery and the food superb – haddock in matzo is a slice of piscine heaven. Cheap

Flâneur Food Hall modern European 10 A1 41 Farringdon Road, EC1 • 020 7404 4422 Open 9am–10pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun Eating a meal in a grocery shop might not seem appealing, but high-ceilinged Flâneur is a superior seller of choice comestibles, and its restaurant offers a similarly elevated menu of contemporary dishes. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients. Rich cakes dominate the desserts selection. Moderate

Smiths of Smithfield modern European 10 B2 67–77 Charterhouse Street, EC1 • 020 7251 7950 www.smithsofsmithfield.co.uk Café open breakfast & lunch daily; dining room open lunch & dinner Sun–Fri

Revelling in the industrial chic of bare brick and raw concrete, Smiths is a multi-floor venue successfully combining a buzzing bar-café (brunch is a must), a lively dining room, and a polished restaurant catering to City high-flyers. Moderate/Expensive

The Sutton Arms proper gastropub 10 B1 6 Carthusian Street, EC1 • 020 7253 0723 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri This reconstructed pub on the fringes of the City is everything a good gastropub should be: solid, stripped back, unselfconscious. Within the small, dark, wood-clad upstairs dining room you can enjoy robust dishes, such as smoked haddock chowder and roast chicken with . Moderate

45 Restaurants

St John iconic British restaurant 4 B5 26 St John Street, EC1 • 020 7251 0848/4998 www.stjohnrestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Chef Fergus Henderson has been in the vanguard of modern British cooking since this unique restaurant opened in 1994. His philosophy of “nose to tail eating” – no part of an animal is off limits – has led to the creation of classic, no-compromise dishes such as roast bone marrow and parsley salad, and veal tongue, beetroot and pickled walnut. But faint hearts need not fear: less offbeat gems include boiled ham, carrots and parsley sauce, and veal chop with chicory and anchovy. Desserts are straight from the nursery: apple crumble and custard, and hot chocolate pudding. There are no decorative frills to detract from the supreme quality of the food in this eccentric building that is part Georgian townhouse, part former smoke- house. An on-site bakery and bar offer snacks such as welsh rarebit, and tripe and chips. Expensive

Café Spice Namaste Indian 11 F3 16 Prescot Street, E1 • 020 7488 9242 www.cafespice.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat No-one has done more than Bombay-born chef Cyrus Todiwala to revitalize British Indian restaurants for the 21st century. He opened Café Spice Namaste in White- chapel in 1995, and it remains one of the capital’s premier Subcontinental dining destinations a decade later. A central bar separates the two dining rooms, which are decorated in fiery colours to reflect the zip of a menu that marries traditional Indian culinary tech- niques with unusual ingredients. Sample the delights of venison tikka flavoured with roasted fennel, star and cinnamon, and fresh buffalo mozzarella served with Parsee-style pickle and sarias (crackers). Or experience the depth of flavour in a classic lamb dansak. Even the home-made pickles and chutneys that accompany the pre-meal pappadoms are excep- tional. You can enjoy Indian nibbles and bottles of icy Cobra lager in the beer garden, too. Moderate

46 For food deliveries from pizza to gourmet delicacies, go to www.elondon.dk.com City & East

Club Gascon hearty French 10 B2 57 West Smithfield EC1 • 020 7796 0600 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat The earthy flavours of Southwest are Club Gascon’s speciality, with foie gras prominent on a menu that features a range of small courses rather than the traditional starter-main-dessert. Some of the dishes raise a smile: wild sea bass might come with a “surprised” turnip (a tiny root veg topped with foam), or your could arrive seemingly empty, only for you to realize that the filling is within the accom- panying ice cream. The presentation is as imaginative as the food, with courses appearing on slate, glass and ceramic tiles as well as china. If your budget will stretch to it, order the five-course degustation menu; each dish is paired with a different glass of wine. A couple of doors away, Cellar Gascon serves up cheaper, but equally fine, bistro food to accompany a superb selection of Gallic wines. Staff are cheery, confident and utterly professional. Expensive

Les Trois Garçons characterful French 5 F5 1 Club Row, E1• 020 7613 1924 www.lestroisgarcons.com Open dinner daily A welcome antidote to minimalism, this joyously over- the-top Gallic eaterie heaves with stuffed animals, Murano glass chandeliers and baroque bric-a-brac (all for sale). Yet, the food is straight-down-the-line classic French of a high order. Not cheap, but worth it for a unique dining experience. Expensive

Cantaloupe trend-setting Mediterranean 5 E5 35 Charlotte Road, EC2 • 020 7613 4411 www.cantaloupegroup.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

This versatile bar-restaurant is still a trailblazer of the trendy Hoxton/Shoreditch scene, but doesn’t sacrifice substance for appearance. The setting is revamped industrial, and there’s plenty of fire and imagination on the short, Mediterranean-slanted menu. Moderate

Restaurants in the City are very busy at lunchtime, but often very quiet in the evenings 47 Restaurants

Great Eastern Dining Room Oriental 5 E5 54–6 Great Eastern Street, EC2 • 020 7613 4545 www.greateasterndining.co.uk Open noon–midnight Mon–Thu, noon–1am Fri, 6pm–1am Sat

The lively, noisy GEDR draws in a young, fashionable crowd for artfully conceived oriental treats like pork and prawn dumplings, rare beef salad with red chilli dressing, and lemongrass and ginger pannacotta. (See also E&O, p42.) Moderate

Real Greek real Greek 5 E5 14–15 Hoxton Market, N1 • 020 7739 8212 Branch: 140–42 St John St, EC1 • 020 7253 7234 www.therealgreek.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The moribund London Greek restaurant scene was given a life-saving shot in the arm when Theodore Kyriakou opened this stylish place in 1999. Dishes rarely encountered outside are cooked with conviction and served with a smile. Moderate

Viet Hoa the original Vietnamese 5 E4 70–72 Kingsland Road, E2 • 020 7729 8293 Open lunch & dinner daily Hoxton has a sizeable and vibrant Vietnamese com- munity, and this airy, one-time local canteen was the first place in London to bring the sharp, clean flavours of their cuisine to a non-native audience. It’s still pack- ing the crowds in, and you won’t find a better bowl of pho (meat and noodle soup) in town. Cheap

Green Papaya neighbourhood Vietnamese 5 H1 191 Mare Street, E8 • 020 8985 5486 Open dinner Tue–Sun Hackney is home to a great mix of ethnicities, a fact reflected in its diverse community cafés. Green Papaya is a step up in terms of décor (stripped floorboards, crimson walls, candlelight and a lovely garden) and cooking. Try a classic noodle soup or go for something more unusual from the daily specials menu. Cheap

48 www.elondon.dk.com City, East & North

Gallipoli day-long meze 4 B2 102 , N1 • 020 7359 0630 Open 10am–11pm Mon–Thu, 10am–midnight Fri & Sat Islington’s Upper Street is lined with restaurants, and one of the most popular is this cracking Turkish bistro. The atmosphere is lively, and the food fresh, gener- ously proportioned and cheap. As well as a fine all-day breakfast, there’s a long menu of authentic Turkish dishes, especially meze and grilled meats. Cheap

The Drapers Arms great gastropub 4 A2 44 Street, N1 • 020 7619 0348 www.thedrapersarms.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

Of all the Islington gastropubs, none provides a better all-round package of great food, convivial ambience and willing service than the Drapers. You’ll pay West End prices in the airy first-floor restaurant, but the globe-trotting menu is topnotch. Moderate

The House prize-winning gastropub 4 B1 63–9 Canonbury Road, N1 • 020 7704 7410 www.inthehouse.biz Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sun, dinner only Mon

North London is awash with gastropubs, but few come close to matching the award-winning House for quality of food. The setting is relaxed and friendly, with a modern, stripped-down bar area, an open fire in winter and a decked terrace and beer garden for when the sun shines. It’s only when you start exploring the menu, though, that you understand why this place has become many Islingtonians’ favourite spot to eat. There’s a French emphasis to the dishes, such as roast sea bass with piperade (sauté peppers), olive tapenade and langoustine oil, and terrine of chicken, sweetbreads, Grelot onions and foie gras wrapped in Parma ham. There’s also a superb, varied brunch menu at weekends and good-value lunch and pre-theatre set meals. Not cheap, but absolutely worth it. Moderate

49 Restaurants

Odette’s romantic modern European 2 B2 130 Regent’s Park Road, NW1 • 020 7586 5486 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat, lunch only Sun One of North London’s best-loved restaurants, Odette’s is a prime spot for a romantic dinner à deux. Though it was given a sensitive renovation in 2003, it retains all the old-fashioned idiosyncrasy that has long endeared it to the moneyed media folk of Primrose Hill. Scores of gilded mirrors reflect candlelight around the intimate dining rooms, providing a seductive setting for adventurous but not over-fussy contemporary cooking. Pithivier of rabbit with white bean cream would be a typical starter; for mains, chargrilled leg of lamb with Italian , roasted artichokes and fondant potatoes, or loin of veal with gnocchi and fresh peas. The wine list is also notable, and features an impressively international spread of vintages. Service can be a touch uneven, but overall Odette’s is a North London jewel. Expensive

El Parador superior tapas 3 E4 245 Eversholt Street, NW1 • 020 7387 2789 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun An oasis of Iberia in the unpromising area between Euston station and Camden Town, El Parador is at its best in the summer, when the dining room and basement are augmented by a small garden. The tapas are better than the London norm, with fresh, high-quality ingredients to the fore. Cheap

Café Corfu Greek delights 3 E2 7 Pratt Street, NW1 • 020 7267 8088 www.cafecorfu.com Open all day from noon Tue–Sun Many Greek restaurants in London are lacklustre. Not so Café Corfu, which offers an excitingly varied menu of rarely encountered specialities from the Greek mainland and islands, as well as classic roast lamb dishes. The setting is lively, stylish and thoroughly contemporary, and service spot-on. Moderate

50 www.elondon.dk.com North

Manna vegetable dishes from heaven 2 B2 4 Erskine Road, NW3 • 020 7722 8028 www.manna-veg.com Open dinner only Mon–Sat, lunch & dinner Sun

Serving well-crafted dishes for more than 40 years, Manna is still noteworthy among vegetarian restau- rants. Tuck in to a meal of, say, soba noodle salad, organic fennel schnitzel, and star anise brûlée accompanied by a fine organic beer or wine. Moderate

The Lansdowne reliable gastropub 2 C2 90 Gloucester Avenue, NW1 • 020 7483 0409 Open dinner only Tue–Sat, lunch & dinner Sun The Lansdowne has long been one of the capital’s premier gastropubs, and its standards remain as high as ever. Snacks can be ordered from the chalkboard in the lively downstairs bar, or go for something more substantial on the short, reliable menu in the posher red-and-black-clad first-floor restaurant. Moderate

Mango Room the best Caribbean in town 2 D1 10 Kentish Town Road, NW1 • 020 7482 5065 www.mangoroom.co.uk Open dinner only Mon, lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, lunch only Sun

First-class Caribbean food is scarce in London and almost never found in a restaurant as stylish as the Mango Room. Jerk chicken and curried goat are classics. Creole snapper with mango and green pep- percorn sauce is an unusual alternative. Moderate

The Wells gastropub with a view 1 B4 30 Well Walk, NW3 • 020 7794 3785 www.thewellshampstead.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily Enjoy the views of leafy Hampstead from the spacious, streamlined first-floor restaurant of this pub, while you savour the menu of well-honed comfort food – rich, calorie-packed and utterly irresistible. For a blow-out, try the classic Chateaubriand with thrice- cooked chips, followed by . Moderate

For an index of restaurants by cuisine, see pp220–22 51 Restaurants

Base light Mediterranean cuisine 2 C4 71 Hampstead High Street, NW3 • 020 7431 2224 www.basefoods.com Bistro open 8am–6pm daily; restaurant open dinner Tue–Sat

By day, a local clientele packs out the bistro, chatting animatedly over light, bright Mediterranean food (grilled vegetable salads, seared tuna, risotto). By night, the upstairs dining room takes centre stage for similar fare in marginally more formal surrounds. Moderate

Kovalam great-value, high-quality Indian 12 Lane, NW6 • 020 7625 4761 • 1 Kilburn Open lunch & dinner daily Willesden Lane in Kilburn is something of a mecca for fans of good, cheap South Indian food, and Kovalam is probably the pick of the bunch. The décor may be humble, but the depth of flavour in its superb Keralan dishes is regal – try the breadfruit curry. Many dishes are suitable for vegetarians. Cheap

Blueprint Café European by the river 11 F5 Design Museum, Shad Thames, SE1 • 020 7378 7031 www.conran.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch Sun The twin attractions of this classy restaurant – it’s certainly no café – within the Design Museum are expansive views of the Thames and a daily-changing, Italian-leaning menu. The room is a no-nonsense setting for superior peasant food, such as roast partridge with cabbage and bacon. Expensive

Champor-Champor Malaysian fusion 10 D5 62 Weston Street, SE1 • 020 7403 4600 www.champor-champor.com Open dinner Mon–Sat Primary colours burst from the walls of this lively little restaurant, reflecting the zesty flavours on the invent- ive menu. The essence is Malaysian, but with pan-Asian influences. Typical dishes include steamed tilapia with turmeric leaf, crab and coconut bisque, and masala lamb fillet with aubergine mousse. Moderate

52 Seek out London’s old-style cafés through www.elondon.dk.com North & South

Ta s uncommonly good Turkish 10 A5 33 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 1444 www.tasrestaurant.com Open all day from noon daily Named after a traditional Anatolian cooking pot, Tas has proved that high-quality Turkish cooking and a contemporary setting can harmonize. The menu is strong on grilled meats and perkily fresh meze, with a huge choice for vegetarians. Add in friendly staff and fair prices, and you have a winner. Moderate

Livebait fish in myriad forms 10 A5 41–5 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 7211 www.santeonline.co.uk/livebait Open all day from noon Mon–Sat

With its cheery tiled interior and booth seating, Livebait looks like a classy fish and chip shop. But this won’t prepare you for the wonderful menu roving from the simple pleasures of a bowl of cockles to the epicurean heights of oven-roast halibut. Moderate

Mesón Don Felipe authentic Spanish 10 A5 53 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 3237 Open all day from noon Mon–Sat For many hispanophiles this perennially packed little tapas bar is as close as you can get in London to the real thing. Regulars perch at the huge bar in the middle of the room, while friendly staff distribute melting bacalao (deep-fried salt cod), broad beans with ham, and perfect tortilla. Cheap

Masters Super Fish fish & chips 10 A5 191 Waterloo Road, SE1 • 020 7928 6924 Open dinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue–Sat Clad in dark wood and exposed brick, this is much better than the average “chippie”. True, you can get a classic cod’n’chips with mushy peas, but there’s also fresh Cromer crab and crisp, mustard-coated haddock for the more adventurous. A favoured haunt of London cab drivers – who know a thing or two. Cheap

53 Restaurants

Oxo Tower fine food and fabulous views 10 A4 Top floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 020 7803 3888 www.harveynichols.com Open lunch & dinner daily

There are few locations in London as spectacular as the top floor of the Oxo Tower. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls and a 250-ft (90-m) long terrace allow unin- terrupted views over the Thames. It’s stunning, and yours to admire for the price of a drink at the sleek bar. Eating here will make a greater dent in your wallet, though the cost is justified by the consistently high standard of the creative modern European food served at the relaxed Brasserie and more formal Restaurant. Lunch at the Brasserie might consist of chilli crab with egg linguine, followed by sea bass and warm halloumi, and finishing with coconut parfait with passion fruit. The refinement of the menu (and prices) rise in the Restaurant, with such delicacies as warm salad of quail with foie gras and truffle, monkfish with oxtail or pink grapefruit with Campari sorbet. Both venues serve more affordable set lunches. Expensive

Tsunami way-out Japanese 5–7 Voltaire Road, SW4 • 020 7978 1610 • 1 North Open dinner Mon–Fri, all day (12:30–11:30pm) Sat Tsunami is one of that rare breed of restaurants that thrill and satisfy in equal proportions. The first surprise is finding such a smart, stylish space just off Clapham’s workaday high street. With its ascetically plain décor and nattily attired staff, it has an air of both simplicity and sophistication. A similar balance is found on the menu, which combines classic Japanese cooking – excellent, biting-fresh sashimi, sushi and tempura – with originality and imagination. Witness the mingling of sautéed foie gras with Asian pear and truffle, quail with ginger honey soy, and the green tea tiramisu. There are parallels between Tsunami and ultra-chic Nobu (see p34), where some of the staff trained, but Tsunami is free of “attitude”, and there’s no need to book months in advance. Expensive

54 www.elondon.dk.com South

Ransome’s Dock modern European Chez Bruce bistro 35–37 Parkgate Road, SW11• 020 7223 1611 2 Bellevue Road, SW17 • 020 8672 0114 £ Common 1 Clapham Common www.chezbruce.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, 12–3:30pm Sun Few establishments are as universally admired (and Perched on the edge of a small inlet off the Thames, enjoyed) as Bruce Poole’s longstanding Wandsworth ingredients are well chosen, and organic where restaurant. The traditions of French cuisine provide possible. The Wine List, overseen by owner Martin the framework, but expect inspired borrowings from Lam, is outstanding for its range and good value. The elsewhere in Europe and a focus on seasonal kitchen shows an instinct for flavour combinations ingredients. Relaxed, knowledgeable staff add to a but dishes are kept agreeably simple. Moderate sophisticated yet easygoing atmosphere. Moderate

Le Petit Max Battersea bistro Riverside Plaza, 14 Chatfield Road, SW11 • 020 7223 0999 £ Wandsworth or Open 10am–10:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun

Over the last decade Max Renzland has been behind some of London’s most inventive and consistently excellent French restaurants. Most have been located in obscure parts of southwest London; this one is sited in an unprepossessing riverside development in Battersea. The dominant feature of the interior is a handsome 1930s mahogany bar imported from Lille. Le Petit Max is essentially a reasonably priced bistro. The menu du jour is particularly good value, but the carte is also within the reach of most budgets. A typically earthy meal could start with boudin noir (blood sausage) with potato salad, then braised shoulder of milk-fed Pyrenean lamb with haricot beans and garlic, finishing with rum baba, red fruits and Chantilly. Moderate

Putney Bridge Restaurant French 2 Lower Richmond Road, The Embankment, SW15 020 8780 1811 • 1 Bridge www.putneybridgerestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

The award-winning glass-and-steel building does impress, but the lovely river views and impeccable food are the main attractions. The airy dining room provides a serene setting for French haute cuisine. Expensive

In pubs or restaurants away from the centre of town, Sunday lunch can be great value 55 shopping

London’s retail landscape is as diverse as the city itself, yielding up traditional tailors and radical fashion designers, antiquarian booksellers and alternative record shops, luxury department stores and gritty markets. Of course, it has its fair share of international chains, but you don’t have to travel far off the beaten track to find quirky contemporary boutiques and time-honoured delicatessens. TOP CHOICES – shopping

FLAGSHIP STORES OBJETS D’ART SHOES & ACCESSORIES

Paul Smith Mint Jimmy Choo 120 Kensington Park Rd, W11 70 Wigmore St, W1 169 Draycott Ave, SW3 The interior of this fabulous A miscellany of antique and modern Jimmy Choo’s is a treasure trove house is casually strewn homewares, furniture and lighting. of glamorous and decadent shoes, with Paul Smith’s refined yet cheeky Pieces by recent design graduates from diamanté sandals to sleek, tailoring. (See p84) add to the mix. (See p73) knee-high boots. (See p77)

Joseph Graham & Green Lulu Guinness 77 Fulham Rd, SW3 4 & 10 Elgin Crescent, W11 3 Ellis St, SW1 Contemporary tailoring for men and Stocking everything from Mongolian Guinness’s apparently endless women. The Essentials shop, Gigi cushions to cool Modernist lamps, variations on the humble bag trans- boutique and café are across the at equally wide-ranging prices, this form it into an object of veneration. street. (See p77) is a great place to browse. (See p85) Witty, fun and expensive. (See p77)

Stella McCartney Aram For a fantastic range of cheap and 30 Bruton St, W1 110 Drury Lane, WC1 fashionable accessories, check out McCartney’s Mayfair townhouse Classic Gropius and Aalto furniture, TopShop (see p68) or the revamped is a glamorous setting for slinky and pieces by young British design- New Look chain. dresses and beautifully cut suits. ers are displayed in a slick (See p70) showroom. (See p60)

More dash than cash? Visit Designer Bargains at 29 Kensington Church Off Upper St, N1 Street for a good selection of barely This pedestrian street behind the second-hand attire. modish shops of Upper Street is lined with antique shops of all kinds. (See p90)

The Conran Shop Philip Treacy Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 69 Elizabeth St, SW1 Occupying the former headquarters On swanky Elizabeth Street, of Michelin, Conran’s elegant home- Philip Treacy produces dashing hats, wares share house room with a as well as offering a bespoke ser- couple of great eateries. (See p78) vice. (See p76)

58 Post reviews of your top choices at www.elondon.dk.com TOP CHOICES – shopping

BEST OF BRITISH VINTAGE & RETRO DESIGNER COUTURE

Neal’s Yard Dairy Rokit Oki-ni 17 Shorts Gardens, WC2 Brick Lane, E1 25 Saville Row, W1 This outstanding cheesemonger’s This spacious, two-shop outlet is The gallery-style shop of this British- produce is sourced mostly from packed with 60s and 70s vintage Japanese group displays pieces independent UK producers. Also at wear, notably well-worn leather designed in collaboration with labels Borough Market. (See pp62 & 163) jackets and 70s T-shirts. (See p88) such as Levi’s and Evisu. (See p68)

James Smith & Sons Persiflage The World According To… 53 New Oxford St, WC1 Alfie’s Antiques Market, Church St, NW8 6 Conduit St, W1 Stalwarts of urbanity since 1830, the Persiflage is a tiny shop with modest This funky boutique showcasing hot Smiths make canes and umbrellas prices, some 19th-century clothes talent such as Boudicca and Peter so dapper that rain is almost and great 1920s pieces. Jensen reputedly attracts welcome. (See p63) fashionista Kate Moss. (See p67)

Classic clothes emporia On Thursdays, London’s hottest Burberry and Pringle have young designers display their latest recently metamorphosed from creations at Spitalfields Market (see bastions of tradition into cool p161). Sniff out some beautifully crafted brands (see p69). garments at preview prices.

A. Gold Portobello Green aQuaint 42 Brushfield St, E1 Portobello Rd at Gdns, W11 38 Monmouth St, WC2 This little deli sells mainly British On Fridays and Saturdays, this The ready-to-wear range in this produce, such as Cumberland market sells new designs and an young London designer’s store sausages and cider brandy from the excellent mix of second-hand and makes good use of luxurious West Country. (See p87) vintage clothing. (See p83) materials. (See p61)

Smythson Browns 40 New Bond St, W1 23–27 South Molton St, W1 Top-quality stationer Smythson Five interlinked boutiques sell offers elegant leather-bound diaries top designer labels. Across the and notebooks, and watermarked street, Browns Focus features correspondence sets. (See p69) hip young designs. (See p70)

Selfridges has a huge range of top-name brands all under one roof (see p71) 59 Shopping

Floral Street big names & small boutiques 9 G3 Cobbled pedestrian street in Covent Garden, WC2 For individual shop details, see pp210–11 This winding lane tucked behind Covent Garden Market is packed with well-known fashion stores ranging from young, trendy labels, for example Diesel StyleLab, to established designer names such as Paul Smith, Ted Baker, Agnès B, Nicole Farhi and Camper. Dotted among these are some unusual shops, such as Kirk Originals, which sells colourful, retro-inspired eyewear (at No. 29); Burro for clothing with logos and patterns (also at No. 29); and Jones, which displays supercool designer menswear (Raf Simons, Jo Casely- Hayford, et al) in an extraordinary industrial setting at Nos. 13–15. Posh combatwear is the theme at Maharishi, where a jungle-like interior comes complete with palm trees and mini military helicopters (No. 19a). The Tintin Shop (No. 34) is devoted to the famous Belgian comic strip, selling books in several languages, posters, T-shirts and other themed items.

Vertigo original film posters 9 G3 22 Wellington Street, WC2 • 020 7836 9252 www.vertigogalleries.com Open 11–6:30 Mon–Fri, 11–5:30 Sat This light-filled little gallery showcases original movie posters and “lobby cards” (small posters displayed in American cinemas). The selection and prices range from affordable modern items to rarities going for thousands. For an original gift idea, choose a film from someone’s birth year, or one with a British theme.

Aram iconic modern furniture 9 G3 110 Drury Lane, WC2 • 020 7557 7557 www.aram.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (10–7 Thu) A champion of contemporary design since the 1960s, Aram now has a vast converted warehouse to show off its modern-classic furniture to stunning effect. Wandering around its five floors, admiring iconic pieces by Le Corbusier and Eileen Gray, is like visiting a museum. Indeed, the shop hosts regular exhibitions.

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Monmouth Street girls’ pampering zone 9 F3 no-frills packaging. Be warned, however – they’re far Covent Garden, WC2 more expensive here than in the US. Poste Mistress For individual shop details, see pp210–11 at Nos. 61–3 has the feel of a 1970s boudoir, with Monmouth Street is rapidly turning into Boutique designer shoes from the likes of Angelo Figus and Central, with a line-up of classy shops. At No. 23 is Pucci perched amid kitsch, framed photos and London’s chicest sex shop, Coco de Mer, selling burgundy velvet pouffes. beautiful lingerie (some emblazoned with discreet The talented buyer at Koh Samui (Nos. 65–7) pornographic prints), a range of tasteful sex toys such always selects exciting pieces from well-known as arty, coloured-glass dildos, and erotic books. The designers (Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Clements décor is neo-Victorian with crimson floral wallpaper, Ribeiro), plus cutting-edge offerings by up-and- and the dressing rooms have a peephole concealed coming talent. The jewellery and accessories are behind a picture through which your partner can spy especially creative. Across the street at aQuaint on you from a hidden chamber next door – very kinky. (No. 38), Ashley Isham’s grown-up, tailored-yet- American skincare supremo Kiehl’s is at No. 29. feminine womenswear hangs side by side with neat The company’s excellent products, based on natural modern clothing by British designers Emma Cook and ingredients, are instantly recognizable in their Boyd, and exquisite, expensive frocks by Lanvin.

61 Shopping

Earlham Street bustling street market 9 F3 At the Seven Dials intersection, Covent Garden, WC2 For individual shop details, see pp210–11 The west end of Earlham Street is packed with market stalls hawking cheap T-shirts and casual clothes. Sprawling over several stalls is The Wild Bunch florist, which offers a wide array of good-quality blooms. The shops lining the street are mainly funky fashion chains, including global surf-skate-style brand Stüssy at No. 19, futuristic club label Cyberdog at No. 9 and expanding British chain All Saints at No. 5, which sells cool clothes and jeanswear for men and women. Adding to the mix is traditional ironmonger F W Collins & Son at No. 14, which opened in 1835 when the area still had a reputation as a meeting-place of criminals. A branch of design bookshop Magma is at No. 8 (see also p86). At the east end of Earlham Street are the surf/skatewear shops of the Thomas Neal Centre and hip young American clothing/home emporium Urban Outfitters, at Nos. 42–56.

Neal’s Yard Dairy British cheeses 9 G3 17 Shorts Gardens, WC2 • 020 7240 5700 www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk Open 11–6:30 Mon–Thu, 10–6:30 Fri & Sat

The very smell of this tiny shop will have cheese-lovers swooning. The counter and shelves groan under the weight of massive whole cheeses. Regional gems by independent producers include Colston Bassett Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher and Montgomery’s Cheddar.

Size? trendy trainer store 9 G3 17–19 Neal Street, WC2 • 020 7240 1736 Open 9:30–7:30 (to 8pm Thu), noon–6 Sun Sneaker freaks will be in their natural habitat at this always-busy shop, which sells big names such as Converse, and Lacoste – including limited- edition styles – alongside elusive cult brands. Adidas fans should head for the basement and one of the UK’s few official shops dedicated to the label.

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Forbidden Planet sci-fi/fantasy megastore 9 F2 179 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2 • 020 7420 3666 www.forbiddenplanet.com Open 10–7 (to 8 Thu), noon–6 Sun For shoppers with an unhealthy obsession with Lord of the Rings or Star Trek, this is the place to come for the full range of action figures and videos. Forbidden Planet is the world’s largest sci-fi and fantasy retailer, and the London megastore is packed with books and comics. There is even an “adults only” section.

Falkiner Fine Papers paper supplies 9 G1 76 Southampton Row, WC1 • 020 7831 1151 Open 9:30–5:30 Mon–Fri, 10:30–5:30 Sat Located near St Martins College of Art, Falkiner sells all manner of products relating to paper. There’s equipment for making it, quill pens, sketchbooks and shelf upon shelf of individual sheets, from marbled patterns to parquet and bricks for dolls’ houses. Japanese silkscreen prints are another line.

James Smith & Sons umbrellas 9 G2 53 New Oxford Street, WC1 • 020 7836 4731 www.james-smith.co.uk Open 9:30–5:25 Mon–Fri, 10–5:25 Sat This family business has been making umbrellas and canes for over 170 years. The Victorian shop, still with its original signs and fittings, is an attraction in itself. Inside are racks crammed with umbrellas in every pattern – stripes, checks, paisley, frilled parasols – and walking sticks with curious carved handles.

Contemporary Wardrobe vintage wear 9 G1 The Horse Hospital, Colonnade, WC1 • 020 7713 7370 www.thehorsehospital.com Open noon–6 Mon–Sat, by appointment

Thousands of vintage street fashions can be found at this hire shop, which shares its site with a venue for avant garde art and film. Rooting around here could turn up a piece used in the film Quadrophenia or a video shoot with Kylie. Some garments are for sale.

Covent Garden contains some of London’s quirkiest specialist shops 63 Shopping

Gay’s The Word specialist bookshop 3 G5 66 Marchmont Street, WC1 • 020 7278 7654 www.gaystheword.co.uk Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 2–6 Sun The UK’s largest gay bookshop has been in business since the late 1970s. Titles cover fiction, philosophy, history, politics, erotica, relationships and emotional issues. Gay detective novels have a section to themselves. Videos and second-hand books are also on sale in this friendly shop.

Eatmyhandbagbitch cool design 9 G3 37 Drury Lane, WC2B • 020 7836 0830 www.eatmyhandbagbitch.co.uk Open 11am–6pm Mon–Sat, or by appointment

An array of original furniture and objects for the home, ranging from 1900 right up to the 1980s, can be found in this wonderful shop. Eatmyhandbagbitch is a real treat for serious collectors of twentieth- century interior design.

Cecil Court antiquarian books & prints 9 F3 Pedestrian lane off Road, WC2 For individual shop details, see p211 This narrow street, lined with quirky little shops, is a collector’s paradise. Nigel Williams at No. 25 special- izes in first editions, with lots of Enid Blyton and P G Wodehouse, while, across the street, Marchpane also deals in antique children’s titles, especially sumptuously illustrated fairy stories. P J Hilton has a good selection of beautifully bound 19th-century literature, and David Drummond sells books and ephemera relating to the performing arts. Continuing the dramatic theme Stage Door Prints (No. 9) has signed photos of stars such as Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, Edith Piaf and Anna Pavlova, plus theatre-related prints. You’ll find a wider selection of antiquarian prints – encompassing fish, fashion, maps, the military and much more – at Storey’s (No. 3). Opposite, Tindley & Chapman deals in immaculate first editions of 20th-century fiction.

64 Search London’s specialist bookshops with www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Charing Cross Road bookshops 9 F3 Road bordering Covent Garden & Soho, WC2 For individual shop details, see p211 The name “Charing Cross Road” gets bibliophiles’ pulses racing. Together with offshoot Cecil Court (see left), it is London’s main centre of new, second- hand, specialist and antiquarian bookshops. Check out the commemorative plaque on the site of the defunct Marks & Co, whose address gave its name to the book and film 84 Charing Cross Road. Recently refurbished, the famous Foyles stocks everything from popular fiction to academic texts on its five floors. It now also houses London institution Ray’s Jazz – a music shop, with a café attached where you can dig the tunes – and renowned women’s bookshop Silver Moon. There’s also an art gallery on the premises. Even if you’re not buying for children, go and have a look at the live piranhas in the children’s department. Across the street is a massive branch of Borders with the chain’s usual all- embracing selection of magazines, books and CDs. It has a café and comfy chairs for lounging in, too. A large branch of Blackwell’s bookshop is at No. 100. Of the second-hand bookshops on Charing Cross Road, many are appealingly ramshackle emporiums, where the pleasure comes from rooting out treasures from the packed, dusty shelves. Quinto at No. 48A and Henry Pordes at Nos. 58–60 are well reputed. For coffee-table art tomes and scholarly subjects, visit Shipley at No. 70. Its sister shop, Shipley Media, at No. 80 specializes in photography, film and fashion.

Any Amount of Books great bookshop 9 F3 56 Charing Cross Road, WC2H • 020 7836 3697 www.anyamountofbooks.com Open 10:30am–9:30pm daily This bookshop sells second-hand books from around the world – in fact it is not unknown for the owners to take trips to far-flung places to find exciting titles. Some books can be found for as little as £1 right up to rare editions worth hundreds. Once inside you’ll be there for hours – the range of books is absolutely fascinating.

65 Shopping

Kokon To-Zai sounds & style 9 F3 57 Greek Street, W1 • 020 7434 1316 Open 11–7:30 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun Revamp your record collection and your wardrobe at this compact one-stop shop selling cutting-edge clothes and music. Staff man the decks so you can browse to the electro beat. On the rails are street designs for both sexes by local and global talent, as well as the store’s own sportswear-influenced line.

Gerry’s wines & spirits 9 F3 74 Old Compton Street, W1 • 020 7734 4215/2053 Open 9–6 Mon–Fri, 9–5:30 Sat This is the place to come if you’re looking for an obscure liqueur or spirit – there are over 100 varieties of vodka alone. The shop is crammed with a huge variety of booze from all over Europe, South America and elsewhere, from strawberry-flavoured tequila to absinthe in a bottle shaped like the Eiffel Tower.

The World According To… trendy 9 E3 4 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7437 1259 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Fri, 11–6:30 Sat Blink and you’ll miss this tiny basement shop in the heart of the red-light district. The names inside couldn’t be further from the scene on the street, with Eley Kishimoto, Cacharel and Sonia Rykiel’s diffusion line rubbing shoulders with the boutique’s own Shopgirl range and hip new London labels.

Vintage entertainment memorabilia & mags 9 E3 39–43 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7439 8525 www.vinmag.com Open 10–8 (to 10pm Fri–Sat), noon–8 Sun The ground floor is devoted to entertainment memo- rabilia (Charlie’s Angels T-shirts, Bond mousepads). The basement holds 75,000 vintage magazines, organized by decade and theme. In addition to Picture Post and Vogue, you’ll find such obscurities as The Naturist and a Dr Kildare Annual.

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Agent Provocateur kitsch-sexy lingerie 9 E3 6 Broadwick Street, W1 • 020 7439 0229 www.agentprovocateur.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat (11–8 Thu), 12–5 Sun

This lingerie company is run by designer Vivienne Westwood’s son. The original Soho shop is the best, maintaining the slightly seedy air befitting its porn- chic image. Staff in pink uniforms sell 1950s pin-up- style underwear as well as accessories.

Phonica vinyl-lovers’ paradise 9 E3 51 Poland Street, W1 • 020 7025 6070 www.phonicarecords.com Open 11:30–7:30 Mon–Wed & Sat, 11:30–8 Thu & Fri

Here there’s a counter lined with record decks and 70s lounge chairs to relax on while leafing through back copies of Jockey Slut. Among the vinyl, you’ll find Afro- beat, electronica, hip hop, nu jazz from the Jazzanova- Compost label and Donna Summer disco heaven.

Anything Left-Handed specialist tools 9 E3 57 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7437 3910 www.anythingleft-handed.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5:30 Sat

In business since 1968, the shop delivers what it says above the door – everyday items specially made for lefty adults and children, from kitchen implements and manicure sets to educational games and books. The helpful staff are left-handed as well.

b Store radical designer fashion 8 D3 6 Conduit Street, W1 • 020 7499 6628 www.buddhahood.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat This small boutique for men and women sells its own range of funky footwear – Buddhahood – alongside cutting-edge designs from Peter Jensen, Boudicca and Michelle Lowe-Holder. Although the shop attracts such lofty clientele as model Kate Moss and pop princess Kylie, the mood is pleasantly down to earth.

Soho shops tend to open from late morning until early evening, after which the bars and clubs fill up 67 Shopping

Newburgh Street Carnaby’s cooler cousin 9 E3 Cobbled pedestrian street, W1 For individual shop details, see p212 Running parallel behind brash Carnaby Street, this little strip couldn’t be further away in spirit. Among the line-up of small street-fashion outlets, RedDot stands out for its amusing T-shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned with anarchic slogans and images such as Princess Diana playing happy families with Darth Vader. Jess James offers modern jewellery from up- and-coming and well-known designers – displayed in innovative ways, such as in a long leather case with portholes which light up as you approach. The Dispensary sells laid-back clothes on the wearable side of fashionable for both sexes, from designers local and far-flung. Tiny perfumery Scent Systems stocks unusual fragrances and skincare, many of them not available elsewhere in the UK. These include the German products Just Pure, meant to be used according to the cycles of the moon.

Oki-ni limited-edition designs 9 E3 25 Savile Row, W1 • 020 7494 1716 www.oki-ni.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7 Thu) A totally original concept, Oki-ni is a British-Japanese design group that collaborates with such diverse labels as Duffer of St George, Adidas, Paul Smith, Levi’s, Evisu and Zakee Shariff to create exclusive garments. The shop is more a showroom than a retail site, as most items have to be ordered from the website.

Liberty English-eccentric department store 8 D3 Topshop fashion superstore 9 E2 210–20 Regent Street, W1 • 020 7734 1234 36–38 Great Castle Street, W1 • 020 7636 7700 www.liberty.co.uk www.topshop.co.uk Open 10–7 Mon–Sat (to 8pm Thu), noon–6 Sun Open 9–8 Mon–Sat (to 9pm Thu), noon–6 Sun

London’s quirkiest department store maintains its rich “The world’s largest fashion store” attracts 180,000 history while embracing the 21st century. Tudor House shoppers a week. Blaring music and video screens contains the global furniture, Oriental rugs and printed may be for kids, but stylists trawl it for cheap fabrics that made Liberty’s name, while Regent House garments. The basement Boutique has affordable has extravagant lingerie and ultra-fashionable shoes. pieces by Preen, Maria Chen-Pascual and others.

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Georgina Goodman unique shoes 8 D5 12–14 Shepherd Street, W1 • 020 7499 8599 www.georginagoodman.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–4 Sat Goodman’s sculptural, hand-painted shoes (created to individual specifications in the workshop downstairs) are wearable works of art with pricetags to match, but there is a more affordable, ready-to-wear line, too. Also on sale in the airy, gallery-style space are baby bootees, bags and other leather goods.

Smythson impeccable stationery 8 D3 40 New , W1 • 020 7629 8558 www.smythson.com Open 9:30–6 (from 10am Thu & Sat)

This posh stationer is great for gifts, especially leather-bound notebooks in a range of classic colours, some embossed with witty titles such as Blondes Brunettes Redheads, as well as the more practical Travel Notes. Other wonderfully traditional accessories include visitors’ books and travel wallets.

REN British natural body products 8 D4 19 Shepherd Market, W1 • 020 7495 5960 www.renskincare.com Open 11–6:30 Mon–Sat; often closed 3–4:30

Ren means “clean” in Swedish, reflecting the philo- sophy behind this British hair- and skincare brand. Products such as the Moroccan rose otto shower wash and the grapefruit and jojoba cream are made without pore-blocking additives and have a lovely scent.

Traditional British Brands exudes urban chic. The traditional knitwear brand Some bastions of British conservatism have recently Pringle now has cool variations on its famous been given the kiss of life. Burberry has been argyle sweaters and neat, classic separates. transformed from staid raincoat manufacturer to Mulberry has shaken off its former frumpiness with “it” label. And, although the hallowed check has contemporary takes on English country style: the gained popularity among football fans, the macs renowned bags in mock-croc leather and durable, are still top-quality, and the more exclusive catwalk synthetic Scotchgrain are now streamlined with mod- line, available at the New Bond Street flagship, ern shapes. All outlets on New Bond St; see p223.

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Poste trendy men’s shoes 8 D3 10 South Molton Street, W1 • 020 7499 8002 Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun With its Chesterfield sofa and framed pictures of hum- orous, often bizarre gentlemen, this small shop has the air of a gentlemen’s club. Most of the shoes are updates of classics by designers such as Jeffery-West, Paul Smith and Dries Van Noten, with a selection of fashionable trainers by the likes of Adidas and Puma.

Browns international designer boutique 8 D3 23–7 South Molton Street, W1 • 020 7514 0000 www.brownsfashion.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu) The mother of all London boutiques has been in busi- ness for over 30 years, occupying five interconnecting shops. The mood is decidedly grown-up, with Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Alaia and an entire floor devoted to Jil Sander. Across the street, black-mirrored Browns Focus showcases young hip labels.

Spymaster espionage emporium 8 C2 3 Portman Square, W1 • 020 7486 3885 www.spymaster.co.uk Open 9:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5 Sat Aspiring James Bonds will love this store, which caters to amateur sleuths, government departments and law-enforcement agencies. All your espionage needs are catered for, from trained sniffer dogs and armoured cars to shark repellent and a nifty bug detector disguised as a pen. Eat your heart out, Q.

N Peal indulgent cashmere 9 E4 Stella McCartney cool designerwear 8 D4 37 & 71–2 , W1 • 020 7493 5378 30 Bruton Street, W1 • 020 7518 3100 www.npeal.com Open 9:30–6 Mon–Sat www.stellamccartney.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu) A resident of London’s famous Burlington Arcade since A spacious Mayfair townhouse is a suitably glamorous 1936, N Peal has managed to move with the times. setting for McCartney’s figure-skimming dresses, slim- The range of cashmere in its two tiny shops (women’s fitting suits and separates in seductive fabrics. The at No. 37, men’s at 71–2) is impressive, from classic non-leather shoes are displayed in a parlour decora- rollnecks and cardies to younger, street-inspired ted with wallpaper created by the designer herself. styles in the more affordable npealworks collection. Vegetarian footwear has never been so sexy.

70 Keep track of the hip spots to shop with www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Selfridges department store heaven 8 C3 while a branch of modern holistic chemist Farmacia 400 Oxford Street, W1 • 0870 837 7377 offers organic options on the fifth. The food hall feat- www.selfridges.com ures cuisine from around the globe; the shoe depart- Open 10–8 Mon–Fri, 9:30–8 Sat, 12–6 Sun ment has been revamped with glamorous mini salons Look out, ; watch your back, Harvey Nicks, of exclusive labels Jimmy Choo (see also p77) and because Selfridges is a serious contender for YSL; there’s an Agent Provocateur outpost (see London’s best department store. Constantly also p67) in the massive lingerie section; and the introducing new labels and innovations, the Oxford expanded sports department includes must-have Street giant can truly be said to have all the bases surfing and skateboard labels. covered. Whether you’re looking for the latest The slick Superbrands section has also created a bestseller, a new iBook or a vintage frock, you’re buzz. Accessed through a red resin tunnel, it consists likely to find it in this retail universe. of eight hot designers, including Stella McCartney, The fashion department embraces almost every Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, grouped around high street brand as well as emerging design talent. a branch of sumptuous, souk-style Moroccan restau- The cosmetics hall on the ground floor takes in the rant Mômo (see also p34), which provides respite big names and cult imports from Europe and the US, from traipsing round the store’s six massive floors.

When Oxford Street heaves with people, explore the shops on quieter, parallel smaller streets 71 Shopping

St Christopher’s Place shopping oasis 8 C3 (12 St Christopher’s Place), which stocks hot Pedestrian square, W1 designers alongside the shop’s own-label – signature For individual shop details, see pp222–5 styles include bias-cut dresses and modern tailoring. Opposite , a narrow alleyway Next door, Osprey is the place for mid-priced, leading off Oxford Street (Gees Court) widens into a classic British-designed handbags (structured shapes hidden square with shops and eateries. This appealing in mock croc are a key look), while across the way at enclave features a modern fountain and is dominated Nos. 20–21, former theatrical “shodders” Anello & by a large branch of Italian gourmet café chain Davide, who made Dorothy’s ruby slippers for The Carluccio’s. Drinkers from the pub opposite spill out Wizard of Oz, sells a range of men’s and women’s onto the pavement, and you can often catch live jazz shoes, hand-crafted in . There’s also a branch of on summer nights. Shopping highlights include a Scandinavian fabric company Marimekko (Nos. branch of Mulberry (11–12 Gees Court; see also p69) 16–17), which is known for its bright abstract patterns, and the spacious flagship of women’s chain Whistles featuring on everything from bags to bedding.

Margaret Howell updated British classics 8 C2 34 , W1 • 020 7009 9009 www.margarethowell.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu) This vast, gallery-style space showcases the designer’s collections for men and women, and a selection of simple tableware and vintage and reissued post-War furniture. The clothes are best described as relaxed modern classics, made of quality British fabrics suited to the national climate, such as tweed and cashmere.

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Mint unusual designer homewares 8 C2 70 Wigmore Street, W1 • 020 7224 4406 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7:30pm Thu) Mint brings together an international collection of furniture and homewares, a mix of the ultra-modern and the antique, made by both established designers and recent graduates. Pottery and glassware are hand- made and appealingly asymmetrical. Even tea towels are elevated from the ordinary by lovely prints.

Paul Rothe traditional delicatessen 8 C2 35 Marylebone Lane, W1 • 020 7935 6783 Open 8–6 Mon–Fri, 11:30–approx 5:30 Sat Established in 1900, this old-fashioned deli is run by the original Rothe’s grandson and great-grandson, who wear dapper white coats. Chunky soup and neatly cut sandwiches are served on proper china, while the “English and foreign provisions” include preserves, traditional sweets and Scottish biscuits.

Calmia yoga emporium & spa retreat 8 C1 52–4 Marylebone High St, W1 • 020 7224 3585 www.calmia.com Open 10–9 Mon–Sat, 10–7 Sun

Yoga has never been so chic. While achieving inner peace, you can look fabulous in expensive gear from supermodel Christy Turlington’s Nuala range or DKNY Pure. Everything related to yoga is here, from mats and relaxation tapes to candles and organic skincare. Luxurious spa treatments are available downstairs.

Sixty 6 creative mix ‘n’ match for women 8 C1 66 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7224 6066 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat, 1–5 Sun Embroidery and beading abound at this shop celebrating eclectic, feminine style. Separates are often paired up in unusual combinations, providing plenty of inspiration. Designs by the likes of Temperley, Megan Park and Roland Mouret are supplemented by pretty scarves and bags.

Newly fashionable Marylebone High Street also has a branch of the Conran Shop (see p78) 73 Shopping

Daunt Books elegant shop for travellers 8 C1 83 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7224 2295 Open 9–7:30 Mon–Sat (to 7 Thu), 11–6 Sun Arguably London’s most beautiful bookshop, Daunt retains its original Edwardian character, with oak shelves and green-shaded lamps. General titles are in the front; the galleried rear conservatory is devoted to travel and related fiction organized by country. It’s a great place to browse even if you’re not planning a trip.

Skandium nordic interiors 8 C1 86–7 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 2077 www.skandium.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 11–5 Sun

The flagship shop offers the best of Scandinavia’s clean, contemporary design under one roof. Compare the modern-classic furniture by Alvar Aalto and Arne Jacobsen with the functional yet fashionable table- ware, accessories, books and jewellery.

Madeleine Press understated urban styles 8 C1 90 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 9301 www.mpress.com Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu); 11:30–4:30 Sun

The designer behind the late, lamented Press & Bastyan has gone solo with an exquisitely simple womenswear collection that exudes effortless chic. Neat jackets, body-draping cotton tops, slip dresses and slim jeans are characteristic pieces.

La Fromagerie divine deli 8 C2 2–4 Moxon Street, W1 • 020 7935 0341 www.lafromagerie.co.uk Open 10:30–7:30 Mon, 8–7:30 Tue–Fri, 9–7 Sat, 10–6 Sun

Known for its “cave” packed with cheeses from independent producers across Europe, this rustic- modern shop also sells , bread, coffee, wines and charcuterie. Sample these at the in-store café, or ask for a picnic box to take to Regent’s Park.

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Prestat high-class chocolatier 9 E4 14 Princes Arcade, SW1 • 020 7629 4838 www.prestat.co.uk Open 9:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5 Sat This tiny shop looks like a chocolate box itself, its shelves covered in fabulously packaged, handmade confectionery. Choose from traditional mint wafers, rose and violet creams and fondants, or such new- fangled sweet treats as banoffee truffles, presented in old-fashioned boxes with flamboyant hues.

Patrick Cox slick designer shoes 14 B2 129 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7730 8886 www.patrickcox.co.uk Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed), noon–6 Sun The Canadian designer launched his label in London in the 1980s and has recently revitalized the French brand Charles Jourdan. Shoes for men and women are on the flashy side, with mod and punk influences, bright colours and glitzy trims. The diffusion range, Wannabe, offers basics with a designer edge.

Jo Malone luxury skincare & fragrances 14 B2 150 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7730 2100 www.jomalone.co.uk Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed, Thu & Fri), 11–5 Sun

Gorgeous scents greet you upon entering this classy store. The skincare range is simple yet effective, while fragrances are based on delectable ingredients such as orange blossom, , ginger – even coffee. Enjoy a sample with a complimentary hand massage.

Maria Grachvogel glamorous dresses 14 B2 162 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7245 9331 www.mariagrachvogel.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Wed) Popular with the crème of Hollywood, Grachvogel’s sophisticated evening dresses celebrate the female form with simple, body-skimming lines, sensuous fabrics and subtle detailing of feathers or sequins. In this glamorous, pink-walled shop, you’ll also find the designer’s collection of understated yet sexy daywear.

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Elizabeth Street sophisticated shopping 14 C2 – at a price. At No. 42 is the bright, cheerful shop of Off Eaton Square, SW1 British designer Tracey Boyd, where girlish strappy For individual shop details, see pp223–5 dresses, cute short-sleeved blouses and flared skirts A short stroll from Knightsbridge is this attractive in fun patterns are strengths. Jeweller Erickson Beam- street with a diverse selection of appealing shops. on at No. 38 is a long-standing favourite never long The friendly perfumery Les Senteurs at No. 71 sells out of the fashion press. Dramatically cascading gold unusual European fragrances, such as Annick Goutal chains and beads make for a strong signature look. and Parfums Caron. If you’ve bagged a ticket to Ascot If you’re flagging, have a cup of the best hot or just want to turn heads with an exquisite trilby or chocolate you’ve ever tasted at The Chocolate Society extravagant, feathered creation, visit celebrated shop and café at No. 36 – the society is dedicated to hatter Philip Treacy at No. 69. Across the street at No. promoting high-quality chocolate. Opposite, at 46 is wonderful French bakery Poilâne, where you can No. 45, is gorgeous modern florist Woodhams, which buy authentic croissants, fruit tarts and rustic loaves is worth visiting just to breathe the scented air.

Anya Hindmarch personalized bags 14 B2 15–17 Pont Street, SW1 • 020 7838 9177 www.anyahindmarch.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Wed) Hindmarch is known for classic bags printed with striking images. You can have one made up with your own photo. She also makes impeccable leather bags, including the popular double-handled Ebury, which you can have embossed inside with a personal message. Dainty shoes are also on offer.

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Lulu Guinness head-turning bags & more 14 B2 3 Ellis Street, SW1 • 020 7823 4828 www.luluguinness.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat With its nostalgic illustrations and vintage fashion ads, this shop’s décor is as striking as the witty handbags on display. Guinness’s creations include a flower pot bursting with fabric roses and an embroidered circus tent complete with performing seal. Her retro-look cosmetics range is also sold.

Neisha Crosland contemporary fabrics 14 A3 137 Fulham Rd, SW3 • 020 7589 4866 Open 10–6, noon–5 Sun 8 Elystan Street, SW3 • 020 7584 7988 Open 10–5:30 Mon–Sat www.neishacrosland.com

Neisha Crosland started out designing scarves and has branched out into clothes, accessories and home furnishings, all in her striking abstract prints. The tiny Fulham Road shop sells her Ginka fashion label; go round the corner for cushions and wallpaper.

Joseph high-class urban separates 13 H3 77 Fulham Road, SW3 • 020 7823 9500 Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7 Wed), 12–5 Sun Joseph’s de luxe basics, especially his well-cut trousers, have devoted fans. This minimalist flagship sells his collection alongside pieces from Prada, YSL and Marni; the basement is devoted to designer shoes. Across Draycott Street, Joseph Essentials, Gigi boutique and Joe’s Cafe complete the colony.

Jimmy Choo celebrated designer heels 14 A3 169 Draycott Avenue, SW3 • 020 7584 6111 www.jimmychoo.com Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed), 1–6 Sun This plush Chelsea townhouse, with plush couches for luxurious lounging, is devoted to Jimmy Choo’s fabulous footwear and handbags. The sleek styles are subtle enough not to date next season – essential when you’re splashing out hundreds. The bridal range caters for those who demand the best on their big day.

Harvey Nichols’ top floor restaurant and bar is an ideal stop-off during Knightsbridge shopping (see p79) 77 Shopping

The Conran Shop Sir Terence’s place 14 A2 architectural curiosity, enter via the front portico with Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 • 020 7589 7401 its picturesque flower stall and cart selling crustacea www.conran.com Shop open 10–6 Mon, Tue, Fri, 10–7 Wed, and fresh fish. This entrance is also the setting for the Thu, 10–6:30 Sat, 12–6 Sun. Bibendum restaurant lunch & tiled Oyster Bar (less formal, but no cheaper, than the dinner daily; Oyster Bar all day from noon daily main restaurant). Iconic designer and entrepreneur Terence Conran has In the shop, a more affordable line of contemporary housed his London flagship in the magnificent former furniture, Content by Conran, is now sold alongside HQ of Michelin Tyres. This curious Art Deco building, the main collection of classic modernist designs. In which features stained-glass panels depicting the fact, there are many reasonably priced items for Michelin Man and is crowned with lights in the form home, garden and office. There’s also a selection of of stacked tyres, is also home to Conran’s acclaimed high-tech gadgets, including the latest cameras, and Bibendum restaurant on the first floor (expensive a good range of bath products, coffee-table books modern European cuisine). For the best views of the and high-quality children’s toys.

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Kate Kuba high-fashion footwear 14 B3 22 Duke of York Sq, King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7259 0011 www.katekuba.com Open 10–6:30 (to 7pm Wed), noon–6 Sun This North London shoe shop has recently expanded into the city centre, and divas Mary J Blige and Beyoncé are already fans of its flamboyant footwear. Stock in this spacious, contemporary branch runs from basic loafers to jewelled killer heels. Flashy vari- ations on the cowboy boot are a perennial favourite.

Oliver Sweeney men’s shoes 14 B3 29 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7730 3666 www.oliversweeney.com Open 10–7 (to 8 Wed), 12–6 Sun A combination of comfort, craftmanship and cool has made the shoes of choice for David Beckham, Brad Pitt and Noel Gallagher. A wide range of traditional and more cutting-edge styles is available (including smart leather trainers), all made on Sweeney’s supportive Anatomical Last.

Korres natural Greek skincare 14 A3 124 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7581 6455 www.korres.com Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun This long, narrow shop is stocked with the Athenian company’s products for skin and hair, all in vivid packaging. Tantalizing aromas emanate from lotions based on olives, rosemary and other natural plant extracts characteristic of Greece. Anti-cellulite creams and sun milks are part of the range.

Department Stores hall, staffed by frock-coated assistants and selling London has excellent department stores. In Knights- such oddities as dried edible insects among the bridge, you really can buy anything in Harrods, quaintly packaged teas and jams. A short stroll up where even the chandeliers are dripping with grapes. Bond Street leads to Fenwick, which has the feel of Nearby at sophisticated Harvey Nichols the focus is a boutique and is renowned for accessories. On on designer fashion; ladies who lunch love the Fifth Oxford Street, John Lewis has affordable basics, Floor restaurant at “Harvey Nicks”. On Piccadilly, while Selfridges (see p71) steals the show. For all elegant Fortnum & Mason is famous for its food shop details, see p222.

London’s big stores all have sales twice a year, in January and July 79 Shopping

Designers Guild modern homewares 14 A4 267 & 277 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5775 www.designersguild.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun (fabric shop closed on Sun)

Who says modern design has to be muted and mini- mal? Tricia Guild’s contemporary emporium explodes with colour and pattern. There are cushions, bedding, funky fashion accessories, furniture, a children’s range, stationery, bath products and design books.

Antiquarius antiques emporium 14 A4 131–41 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5353 www.antiquarius.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat Many of the stalls behind the green awnings of Antiquarius sell antique furniture, but there are other smaller treasures to be found, too. A few antique jewellery stalls at the front are worth a browse; other- wise go to the back room for rare finds such as vintage Louis Vuitton luggage and original movie posters.

Space.NK cult cosmetics and a spa 7 F3 127–31 Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7727 8063 www.spacenk.com Open 11–7 Mon, 10–7 Tue, Fri, Sat, 10–8 Wed, noon–6 Sun

This capacious branch of the beauty-products empire has a spa on the ground floor, offering luxurious treatments. Upstairs there is a vast array of cosmetics from around the world, as well as Space.NK’s own range, which includes grooming for the boys.

202 lifestyle shop and café 7 F3 202 Westbourne Grove, W11 • 020 7792 6888 www.nicolefarhi.com Open 8:30–6 (from 10am Mon), 10–5 Sun Nicole Farhi’s “lifestyle” store brings together an airy, French-style café buzzing with beautiful people, selec- ted pieces from Farhi’s collections for both men and women (trademarks are relaxed separates in natural fabrics, chunky sweaters and sheepskin coats), home accessories and a smattering of antique furniture.

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Bill Amberg leather goods 7 E2 10 Chepstow Road, W2 • 020 7727 3560 www.billamberg.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu), 11–4 Sun

Long-established leather designer Bill Amberg produces unfussy, high-quality bags and accessories in calfskin, suede and bridle leather. There are also sheepskin-lined baby slings, and, for hunters, gun cases and a cartridge belt.

Miller Harris exquisite London perfumery 7 E3 14 Needham Road, W11 • 020 7221 1545 www.millerharris.com Open 10–4 Mon & Tue, 10–6 Wed–Sat Lyn Harris trained in Grasse – the perfume capital on the French Riviera – before opening this London shop. Her gorgeous scents have a complexity that transcends most department store fragrances, yet the prices are comparable. You may even have your own bespoke perfume created if you can wait several weeks.

Rough legendary indie record shop 6 D3 130 Talbot Road, W11 • 020 7229 8541 www.roughtrade.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 12–5 Sun Established more than 25 years ago, Rough Trade was an essential outpost of the London punk scene. It’s still flying the indie flag, offering everything from electro-pop to alternative country. Every inch of wall space is covered with gig fliers; selected records are displayed with hand-written staff recommendations.

J&M Davidson neo-classic bags & clothes 6 D3 42 Ledbury Road, W11 • 020 7313 9532 www.jandmdavidson.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun John and Monique are best known for their beauti- fully crafted bags. Based on classic shapes such as the bowling bag, and executed in offbeat colours and animal skins, they have an air of nostalgia. The Anglo-French duo also design tasteful, retro- influenced clothes and home accessories.

When shopping in West London, take a break in Holland Park (see p170) 81 Shopping

J W Beeton eye-catching apparel 6 D3 48–50 Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7229 8874 Open 10:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat, noon–5 Sun The look is fashionable yet individual at this small boutique, where you’ll find Fake London’s quirky takes on British classics rubbing shoulders on the rails with unusual patterned pieces from Panepinto, a label by an ex-Marni designer. Accessories from emerging home-grown talent add to the mix.

Simon Finch Rare Books first editions 6 D3 61A Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7792 3303 www.simonfinch.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat This groovy, white, pod-like branch of the antiquarian booksellers (the main store is in Maddox Street, W1) specializes in modern first editions of literature, art books and prints. Where else will you find a signed photo of the and firsts of Lady Chatterley’s Lover and The Day of the Triffids under one roof?

Tonic laidback clothing 6 D3 276 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8962 0404 www.tonicuk.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat & Sun

Tonic is a clothing store with plenty of cool threads for men, and women. At their sister store at 291 Portobello Road, you’ll find labels like Diesel, John Smedley and G-Star. The look is relaxed with a heavy emphasis on denim.

Duchamp flamboyant men’s accessories 6 D3 75 Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7243 3970 www.duchamp.co.uk Open 10–6 Tue–Sat Modern dandies will delight in Duchamp’s flashy wares. The range of cufflinks is huge, from mini abstract artworks in painted enamel to extravagant creations studded with jewel-bright Swarovski crystals. Ties in contemporary patterns and shirts with flamboyant prints will have peacocks strutting with pride.

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Intoxica! rare vinyl in kitsch setting 6 D3 231 Portobello Road, W11 • 020 7229 8010 www.intoxica.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun A Polynesian tiki-hut interior complete with bamboo walls, indigenous gods and a model hula-dancer provides a bizarre backdrop to rare vinyl pop, jazz, ska, reggae and soul from the 50s to the 90s. Amid the surf, funk and punk are oddities such as We’re the Banana Splits and the soundtrack to Vixen.

Honest Jon’s black music specialist 6 D3 278 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8969 9822 www.honestjons.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, 11–5 Sun This shop has been a fixture of the Portobello scene since 1974, selling a combination of vinyl and CDs. On the ground floor you’ll find reggae, funk, soul, hip- hop and R&B; head downstairs for jazz embracing “outernational” sounds, plus blues, Portuguese fado, African pop and Indian classical.

Portobello Green designer enclave 6 C2 Arcade at Ladbroke Grove end of Portobello Road, W10 For individual shop details, see p222–5; see also Streetlife p159 Nestling under the overpass, this arcade looks rather uninspiring but is home to some very interesting shops. There is also a buzzing market in the courtyard on Fridays and Saturdays, with stalls selling new and vintage clothes. The arcade’s most celebrated resident is avant-garde design duo Preen at Unit 5 (open Thu–Sat only), whose deconstructed, punky clothes often feature asymmetric details, dangling straps and buckles. At Suite 20 (Unit 20, closed Wed), you’ll find retro-inspired separates and bags, some made in original 60s and 70s fabrics. The floaty, patterned chiffon and embroidered silk tops and dresses at Red Hot (Unit 9, closed Mon) have been seen on numerous celebrities. Bedstock (Unit 26) sells bedlinen and a range of camp cushions decorated with everything from cute kittens to Carmen Miranda and Mao.

To pick up real rareties at Portobello market, get there early on Friday or Saturday 83 Shopping

Willma hats, hairclips & a whole lot more 6 C2 339 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8960 7296 www.willma.co.uk Open 11–6 Tue–Sat If you’re after something different to liven up an outfit, this little shop specializes in fun accessories by up- and-coming designers in the UK and abroad. Displayed on colourful perspex units is every kind of thing from cute knitted hats to quirky socks – with striking jewellery, bags and belts in between.

Coco Ribbon girly emporium 6 C3 21 Kensington Park Road, W11 • 020 7229 4904 www.cocoribbon.com Open 10–6:30 (to 6pm Sat), 12:30–5:30 Sun

Half the stock is Australian, and much is embroidered, frilled or adorned with feathers. You’ll find sequined cushions, glam costume jewellery, designer dresses and books such as The Lazy Girl’s Guide to a Fabulous Body displayed on antique boudoir furniture.

Paul Smith all the designer’s collections 6 D4 120 & 122 Kensington Park Road, W11 • 020 7727 3553 www.paulsmith.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Thu, 10–6:30 Fri & Sat

In this rambling stucco house, Smith’s exquisite classic-with-a-twist men’s and women’s collections are draped artlessly over antique tables or hung in oversized wardrobes. The Playroom displays children’s clothes alongside toys.

Marilyn Moore funky, feminine knitwear 6 C3 7 Elgin Crescent, W11 • 020 7727 5577 Open 10–6 Mon–Sat Marilyn Moore worked for Jaeger before launching her own label, so it’s not surprising her collection includes modern interpretations of British classics. While the main focus in-store is on luxurious knitwear – ribbon- trimmed cashmere, or vintage-look argyle – there’s also a range of updated traditional separates.

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Graham & Green eclectic home stores 6 C3 4 & 10 Elgin Crescent, W11 • 020 7727 4594 www.grahamandgreen.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, 11:30–5:30 Sun

A popular source of inspiration for magazine interior stylists, these two family-run shops are a browsable, global jumble of furniture and oddments. Mongolian lambswool cushions, silk kimonos, Venetian mirrors and vintage-style radios are among the offerings.

The Cross chic lifestyle boutique 6 C4 141 Portland Road, W11 139 • 020 7727 6760 Cross The Road, 139 Portland Road (Interiors) Open 11–5:30 Mon–Sat

This unassuming, white-painted boutique attracts devoted fashion folk. The ground floor is packed with pretty home accessories, cult-brand toiletries, children’s clothes and toys, while downstairs there are feminine separates from European and US designers.

Rellik vintage designer gear 6 C1 8 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8962 0089 Open 10–6 Tue–Sat This is an outpost of fabulous vintage in a wasteland of housing estates (the name plays on the Trellick Tower opposite, and spells “killer” backwards). London fashion celebrities are often spotted scanning the 1970s Liberty-print frocks and accessories by Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood and others.

Chain Stores offers high-quality casual clothes for both sexes. Global fashion chains rub shoulders on every major The Karen Millen empire has built on the enduring shopping street in the capital, but there are some success of her sharp, sexy suits and figure- British labels that stand out from the crowd. Popu- flattering dresses. And let’s not forget good old lar Jigsaw bridges the gap between budget and Marks & Spencer: as well as its excellent lingerie designer, with well-made, feminine womenswear. ranges, it has harnessed designer talent to great Younger, hipper and cultivating an irreverent image effect in its Autograph and Per Una collections. with its double-entendre name is FCUK, which For individual shop details, see pp222–5.

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Saloon style shop 4 A4 23 Arlington Way, EC1 • 020 7278 4497 www.saloonshop.co.uk Open 11–7 Mon, Wed–Fri, 11–6 Tue, noon–6 Sat

Unusual patterns and colours are the unifying factors in the medley of stock at this boutique. There are clothes by independent designers, handmade jewellery, Marimekko homewares, unusual stationery and one-off pieces by product designers.

Lara Bohinc 107 super-chic jewellery 5 E5 51 Hoxton Square, N1 • 020 7684 1465 www.larabohinc107.co.uk Open 10–6:30 Mon–Fri only Slovenian-born designer Bohinc creates unusual jewellery in precious metals ranging from delicate, finely detailed pieces to dramatic geometric styles. Her store is the epitome of arty chic, set in ground- breaking designer Alexander McQueen’s former studio next to the cool White Cube Gallery.

Hoxton Boutique edgy urban chic 5 E5 2 Hoxton Street, N1 • 020 7684 2083 www.hoxtonboutique.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–5 Sat

This boutique fits in well with Hoxton’s painfully hip bars. As well as urbanwear by cutting-edge designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Eley Kishimoto, there’s the shop’s own label, characterized by directional design and printed pieces with a punky feel.

Magma modern design bookshop 10 A1 117–19 Clerkenwell Road, EC1 • 020 7242 9503 www.magmabooks.com Open 10–7 Mon–Sat Colourful covers line the walls of this art and design bookshop, which has a leather sofa for relaxed brow- sing. As well as works on graphic design, advertising and photography, there are avant-garde illustrated books that are definitely not for kids, hip stationery and many obscure magazines. (See also p62.)

86 www.elondon.dk.com City & East

Smallfish Records quality music 5 E5 329 , EC1 • 020 7739 2252 www.smallfish.co.uk Open 3–8pm Mon, 11am–8pm Tue–Sat (to 5pm Sun)

Smallfish Records has such a vast selection of music that it is hard to classify what they sell. With an emphasis on vinyl (although they also sell CDs), the shop is organised by genre, with areas designated to the likes of Hip Hop, Guitar Based or Experimental.

Story unique shop-cum-gallery 11 F1 4 Wilkes Street, E1 • 020 7377 0313 Open 1–7 daily In a lovely period street, this extraordinary retail space looks like a contemporary gallery and sells an interesting mix of items. Immaculate vintage frocks, antique furniture, reclaimed hotel and airline linen, and simply packaged natural toiletries are set among beautiful dried leaves and shells.

Artcadia printed wall hangings 11 F1 108 Commercial St, E1 • 020 7426 0733 www.artcadia.co.uk Open 10–5:30 Mon–Fri, 10:30–6 Sun, 10-4 Sat

Artcadia’s digital prints are an easy way to give a room instant contemporary cred. Buy “off the peg” in the gallery or choose from a wide range of up-to-date patterns and images, from groovy abstracts to flowers, printed up on any size of canvas.

A Gold British foodstuffs 11 E1 42 Brushfield Street, E1 • 020 7247 2487 Open 11–8 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sun, closed Sat This wonderful old shop near Spitalfields Market sells traditional British foods, many in attractive old- fashioned packaging. Wild boar pancetta from Cumbria, Stinking Bishop cheese from Gloucestershire, Yorkshire Brack (fruitbread), English wine and honey made from hives kept on a rooftop in London all make great gifts.

The area around Spitalfields comes alive on Sundays (see p161); only a few places are open on Saturdays 87 Shopping

Cheshire Street unusual homewares 5 F5 Off Brick Lane, E1 Market open Sun; shops Sat & Sun For individual shop details, see pp222–5 A cluster of interesting home accessory shops has appeared on this Brick Lane sidestreet, which on Sundays is lined with market stalls selling everything from bedlinen to hardware. Most shops are only open at weekends – it’s best to ring first. Inexterior (No. 14) sells an enticing mix of furry cushions, handmade crockery and pretty clothes. At No. 16, Mar Mar Co deals predominantly in colourful Scandinavian tableware and interior accessories. Labour and Wait (No. 18) is a wonderful source of old- fashioned British household items, from vintage watering cans, earthenware jars and clothespegs to hand-knitted Guernsey sweaters and Welsh blankets. For unique gifts, Shelf (No. 40) showcases modern decorative items by British and European artists, such as jokey, illustrated mugs, notebooks and tiles. Next door at Mimi there are handmade leather bags.

Tatty Devine witty trinkets 11 F1 Rokit all sorts of second-hand clothes 11 F1 236 Brick Lane, E2 • 020 7739 9009 101 & 107 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7375 3864 www.tattydevine.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–5 Sat & Sun www.rokit.co.uk Open 11–7 Mon–Fri, 10–7 Sat & Sun Bracelets made of colourful guitar picks, earrings that From a small second-hand shop in Camden in the 80s, dangle tiny LPs, and tape-measure belts… Tatty Rokit has expanded, with a store in Covent Garden, as Devine’s ironic trashy trinkets have attained cult status. well as these premises sprawling over two storefronts. Also for sale at the design duo’s shop/studio are fun, The diverse stock is in great condition, encompassing punky, printed T-shirts and arty postcards, while the jeans, leather jackets, army gear, vintage dresses, walls are given over to temporary exhibitions. quirky accessories and customized items.

Comfort & Joy chic & cheap boutique 4 B3 109 Essex Road, N1 • 020 7359 3898 Open 10:30–6 Mon–Sat Fed up with chain-store fashion? Try this unpretentious boutique; it sells reasonably priced womenswear designed and made on the premises. Stylish without slavishly following catwalk trends, the simple clothes often sport interesting prints or subtle details such as piping or a crossover neckline.

88 To find out about antiques sales in London, check www.elondon.dk.com City, East & North

Upper Street furnishings & fashion 4 B2 like space – old-fashioned dial phones, antique Islington, N1 metal tins, toys and retro toiletries. The empire of Gill For individual shop details, see pp222–5 Wing spans several diverse, high-quality shops: No. As befits one of London’s centres of affluent living, 182 showcases modern jewellery; the cookshop at Islington has no shortage of stylish interior shops on No. 190 sells all the kitchen paraphernalia you could its main street. Contemporary emporium Aria at Nos. need, with kitschy touches such as feather-trimmed 295–6 has wares for every room of the house by the washing-up gloves; and there are Gill Wing shoe and likes of Philippe Starck and Alessi, while its satellite gift shops nearby, too. shop across the street at No. 133 stocks cards, leather Bringing a high-fashion touch to the strip is Scorah notebooks, frames and understated designer bags. Pattullo (No. 137), with footwear by big names like Heading north, twentytwentyone at No. 274 combines Miu Miu and Gucci, and intriguing boutique Labour of immaculate modern-classic and new pieces of Love (No. 193), selling an assortment of items such as furniture. After Noah (No. 121) stocks an irresistible handmade knickers, and clothes by Visconti’s grand- jumble of vintage and vintage-style items in a barn- daughter that are inspired by classic cinema.

For more on Brick Lane and the Spitalfields area, see pp160–1 89 Shopping

Camden Passage antiques & curios 4 B3 Cobbled lane in Islington, N1 Antiques market Wed & Sat; book market Thu. For individual shop details, see pp224–5 This narrow, meandering continuation of Islington High Street is jammed with antiques shops and market stalls, which are busiest on Saturdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. En route, check out the Rock Archive gallery at No. 110 Islington High Street for limited- edition prints of British greats such as and . Tiny, atmospheric shops are hidden away in the poky Pierrepont Arcade: Caroline Carrier’s nook is piled high with 18th- and 19th- century porcelain. Judith Lassalle sells antique puzzles and games, and Jubilee Photographica deals in photographs from the 19th century onwards. Near the junction of Charlton Place is Origin, for 1930s–50s furniture by the likes of Eames, and Annie’s Vintage Clothes, which has well-preserved flapper dresses. The Victorian Camden Head pub is conveniently placed for mid-rummage refreshment.

Primrose Hill Nexus village shops 2 B2 Regent’s Park Road, NW1 For individual shop details, see pp222–5 An array of inviting shops nestles between the cosy cafés of Regent’s Park Road, Primrose Hill’s villagey main street. Anna at No. 126 serves the area’s affluent residents a mix of fashion from designers as diverse as Betty Jackson, Orla Kiely and Maharishi, plus pieces from newly graduated talent and unusual British-made cashmere sweaters. A few doors along, compact Primrose Hill Books has many signed copies from local authors. There’s a branch of interiors shop Graham & Green (see also p85) at No. 164, while at No. 170 Studio Perfumery offers seductive European scents from Acqua di Parma, L’Artisan Perfumeur, Serge Lutens and others. Around the corner at No. 13 Princess Road, Rachel Skinner sells exquisite hats, ranging from trimmed, updated trilbies and cloches for everyday wear to fabulous one-off feathered or floral creations for Ascot and weddings.

90 www.elondon.dk.com North & South

Oxo Tower Wharf craft studios 10 A4 Bargehouse Street, SE1 • 020 7401 2255 www.oxotower.co.uk Open 11–6 Tue–Sat For individual shop details, see p224

This London landmark on the South Bank is a hotbed of creativity, housing over 30 designers’ studios. The stylish Oxo Tower Restaurant, Brasserie and Bar (see p54) commands great river views at the top. There’s a diverse assortment of interesting goods, including jewellery, fashion, accessories and textiles. Don’t miss funky handmade children’s clothes by Bunny London (worn by ’s little material girl Lourdes). Black+Blum offers quirky, affordable designs, such as a lamp in the shape of a figure (the lightbulb) reading a book (the shade), and a rubber doorstop in the shape of a man pushing the door open. Bodo Sperlein specializes in elegant bone china and sculptural lighting. Hip duo Odie & Amanda design bold hand-printed dresses, slinky tops and tailored tweeds.

Lower Marsh/The Cut hidden gems 10 A5 Roads behind Waterloo Station, SE1 For individual shop details, see pp219–25 There’s still something of old-fashioned London in , a slender side road that feels a world away from all the pomp and ceremony by the Thames on the other side of Waterloo. The nostalgia is especially strong in shops such as Radio Days (a real joy to browse at No. 87) and What the Butler Wore (No. 131), both of which sell a well-selected range of vintage clothing of the mid- to late 20th century. The small daily market deals mostly in cheap fashions and CDs. In contrast, Grammex at No. 25, is a refined shop for classical records and CDs. Cafés around here offer fry-ups, sushi and Cuban food. Over on The Cut is the excellent Calder Bookshop (No. 51). This publisher has an impressive list of 20th-century literary heavyweights, including all the main works of Samuel Beckett, and the shop is a venue for talks and poetry readings.

91 art & architecture

Some of the world’s most treasured cultural artifacts and paintings are gathered in London’s blockbuster museums and grand mansions. The city’s architecture is a thrilling ad hoc mix of medievalism, stately classicism and dynamic bursts of modernism. And counterbalancing the historical heavyweights is a thriving contemporary art scene, centred on East London. Art & Architecture

Somerset House a treasury of culture 9 H3 with a glittering array of gilt snuff boxes, European Strand, WC2 • 020 7845 4600 silverware and jewel-encrusted objets d’art. www.somerset-house.org.uk Reminiscent of a European piazza, the courtyard at Galleries open 10–6 daily (last entry 5:15) the centre of Somerset House sparkles with illuminated A stately building set around a grand courtyard, fountains on summer evenings. In mid-July it is used Somerset House contains three galleries. Gloriously as the venue for a series of outdoor gigs, with artists free of crowds, the Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery such as Goldfrapp, Röyksopp and Calexico perform- numbers some formidable Impressionist and Post- ing. Most spectacularly, an outdoor ice rink is Impressionist paintings among its superb collection: installed in the courtyard in winter (late Nov to late Gauguin’s Nevermore, Manet’s Bar at the Folies- Jan), offering skating sessions to the public. Bergère and Van Gogh’s Self Portrait with Bandaged The south wing of the building is home to a plush Ear, to name a few. It also has some splendid early Modern European restaurant The Admiralty (020 7845 Flemish and Italian paintings, including Fra 4646), which also runs a year-round deli/café and the Angelico’s Man of Sorrows and Quentin Metsys’s Summer Café on the River Terrace. The terrace runs sublime Virgin and Child with Angels. the length of the building on the Thames side; you The Hermitage Rooms echo the style of the famous can walk along it whether you’ve come here for a namesake museum in St Petersburg and are used to meal, a coffee or simply for the views. In summer the exhibit changing displays on loan from the enormous river is largely obscured by plane trees, but to the Hermitage collection. The Gilbert Collection was east you can glimpse St Paul’s, and to the west are opened in 2000. It focuses on the decorative arts, the Gothic towers of Westminster. Adm to galleries

94 For information on current exhibitions in London, check www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Theatre Museum behind the scenes 9 G3 7 Russell Street, WC2 • 020 7943 4700 www.theatremuseum.org Open 10–6 Tue–Sun A rambling foray into the past and future of theatre in London. The work of theatrical pioneers such as Edward Gordon Craig and Peter Brook is brought to the fore through archive film, set designs and models. Enthusiastic guides tell stories about famous performers, and there are make-up demonstrations.

Photographers’ Gallery pics & books 9 F3 5 & 8 Great Newport Street, WC2 • 020 7831 1772 www.photonet.org.uk Open 11–6 Mon–Sat (to 8 Thu), noon–6 Sun

Occupying two sites – one with a vegetarian café, the other with a great bookshop – the gallery presents London’s most concentrated programme of photography exhibitions. Some shows are devoted to new talent, others to high-profile names such as Robert Capa.

Sainsbury Wing of 9 F4 the National Gallery the oldest Masters Trafalgar Square, SW1 • 020 7747 2885 Crivelli’s Garden (restaurant) 020 7747 2869 www.nationalgallery.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 9pm Wed)

The East Wing and main rooms of the National Gallery can be horribly crowded. By comparison, the Sains- bury Wing is relatively quiet, and its modern design provides the perfect lighting conditions for close viewing of the oldest and most precious works in the National’s collection – the Early Renaissance paint- ings. Among the greats on display are Leonardo’s pensive drawing of The Virgin and Child with St Anne and St John the Baptist (c. 1500), Botticelli’s mighty depiction of post-coitus Venus and Mars (c. 1485) and Jan van Eyck’s vivid Arnolfini Portrait (1434). The basement is the setting for major exhibitions. The first floor has a micro-gallery for referencing the entire collection via computer terminals, and also a good restaurant with views across Trafalgar Square.

Admission to the Tate and National galleries, V&A and British Museum is free (but donations are welcome) 95 Art & Architecture

National Portrait Gallery 9 F4 St Martin’s Place, WC2 • 020 7306 0055 www.npg.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 9pm Thu & Fri) A large assembly of images of prominent Britons, the collection includes the only known contemporaneous portrait of Shakespeare, fantastic miniatures by John Hilliard, and photographs by Cecil Beaton and David Bailey. For a chronological tour, start at the top and work down. The rooftop restaurant has great views.

ICA institute of contemporary art 9 F5 The Mall, SW1 • 020 7930 3647, 020 7930 6393 (24 hour info) www.ica.org.uk Galleries open noon–7:30 daily Once the rebellious upstart to the Royal Academy’s stuffy old order, the ICA is an institution itself these days. It retains a sense of adventure, however, mixing well-known artists with group shows of the young pre- tenders. It also has a two small cinemas, a theatre, a café-bar (open to 1am Tue–Sat) and a bookshop. Adm

Royal Sights The Tower of London is awash with the trappings Historic residences and other places connected of (ice-cream vans, toy Beefeaters). with the British monarchy are magnets for visitors. It contains the glitzy Crown Jewels, which, in a Unfortunately, this means that many royal sights measure designed to control the crowds, you are are over-crowded and overtly touristy. obliged to view from a slow-moving travelator. Of the palaces, Hampton Court in southwest Nevertheless, the buildings and attendant history London is the most satisfying: a vast Tudor estate are deserving of their World Heritage Site status. set off by 60 acres of beautiful gardens banking the offers a fascinating insight Thames. By contrast Buckingham Palace offers into British architecture and sovereignty, but in merely a perfunctory excursion around a handful of summer the queues stretch out into Parliament State Rooms. The neighbouring Queen’s Gallery is Square from early morning. There are free organ well worth a visit though; it was revamped in 2002 recitals in the abbey at 5:45pm on Sundays (the and displays selections from one of the world’s day when it is otherwise closed to visitors). greatest collections of paintings. At the western Nearby St Margaret’s Church (see p99) provides a edge of Kensington Gardens, Kensington Palace is good alternative to the abbey. Other less crowded an attractive building and has the wonderful sights with a regal air include the Banqueting House Orangery (see p170), but contains only a collection (see p99) and, in southeast London, Eltham Palace of ceremonial dresses. (Some belonged to the late (see p113) and the Queen’s House (see p112). For Princess Diana, which brings in a bit of a crowd.) location details of all these sights, see p226.

96 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Sir John Soane’s Museum 9 H2 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2 • 020 7405 2107 www.soane.org Open 10–5 Tue–Sat (to 9pm first Tue of the month); tours at 2pm (first come, first served)

Sir John Soane (1753–1837) was a renowned architect in his day, and the interior of this unique, labyrinthine house is a testament to his passion for the Classical world. On the face of it, you are entering a Georgian terraced house, but Soane’s rebuilding throws into disarray the usual neatness of a Georgian interior. A dark, warm corridor gives way to a staircase spiralling up three floors. A succession of skylights – often glazed in yellow to bathe sculptures in what Soane perceived as a Mediterranean light – illuminates the jumbled rooms. At every turn you come across fragments of ancient sculptures and architectural mouldings. Among these are glimpses of an alterna- tive London – beautifully drafted, but unfulfilled plans for betempled bridges, a royal palace for Green Park and a Neo-Classical Houses of Parliament. The ingenious design of the house reaches its high point in the Picture Room, formerly the stableyard of the house next door. As Soane’s painting collection grew, space became a problem, and so he installed hinged screens in the place of solid walls. An attend- ant will open up panels to reveal works by Turner and Piranesi, and the complete set of original paintings by Hogarth which make up The Rake’s Progress. In the New Picture Room (added after Soane’s death) is one of Canaletto’s finest works, View towards Santa Maria della Salute, Venice.

RIBA architectural resource 8 D1 66 Portland Place, W1 • 020 7580 5533 www.riba.org Open 9–6 Mon–Fri, 9–5 Sat The Royal Institute of British Architects puts on a range of shows, including homages to architectural greats. The RIBA building itself is a rather lovely 1930s Deco-Classical hybrid, with a café-restaurant and an excellent bookshop, where you can buy all manner of books on architecture and design.

RIBA sells a cheap fold-out map by Architectural Dialogue, which pinpoints modern architecture in London 97 Art & Architecture

Great Court & Reading Room, 9 F2 British Museum entrance to the treasure house Great Russell St, WC1 • 020 7323 8000 www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk Museum open 10–5:30 daily (to 8:30 Thu & Fri); Great Court open to 11pm Thu–Sat

Architect Norman Foster’s reworking of the British Museum’s central courtyard has created a vast foyer beneath a curving glass roof at the heart of the building. Like a new city square, this is a great meeting area, with cafés surrounding the gleaming rotunda of the famous Reading Room. This is now a reference library for the BM’s collection, and also offers the best free Internet access in London. A staircase winds around the rotunda, leading up to the Court Restaurant, magnificently set at the level of the building’s pediments and architrave. From the courtyard, signs point off north, south, east and west to the various departments of the British Museum’s massive collection of artifacts – from Africa, Asia, Egypt, the Americas, Europe, Greece and .

Dr Johnson’s House literary pad 10 A2 17 Gough Square, EC4 • 020 7353 3745 www.drjohnsonshouse.org Open 11–5 Mon–Sat (to 5:30 summer)

The house where the doctor compiled the world’s first proper English dictionary in the mid-18th century was dutifully restored in the 20th. After a look around, head round the corner to one of Johnson’s favoured watering holes: on . Adm

Temple Church secret history 10 A3 Inner Temple, off Fleet St, EC4 • 020 7353 3470 www.templechurch.com Open Wed–Fri (usually) This honey-stoned pot of a building dates from the 12th century when it was the church of the Knights Templar (see p168). Restored after World War II bomb damage, it has a round form (unusual in Britain) that echoes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. There are free organ recitals at 1:15pm on Wednesdays.

98 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

St Margaret’s Church stained glass 15 G1 Sanctuary, Parliament Square, SW1 • 020 7222 5152 www.westminster-abbey.org/stmargarets Open 9:30–3:45 Mon–Fri, 9:30–1:45 Sat, 2–5 Sun

Though often overlooked, St Margaret’s Church con- tains an amazing variety of stained glass. Especially notable are John Piper’s abstract designs of 1966, and fragments of the 19th-century Caxton Window (honouring the pioneer of printing) on the north aisle.

Banqueting House grandiose building 9 G5 Whitehall, SW1 • 0870 751 5178 www.hrp.org.uk Open 10–5 Mon–Sat An epic, heavenly Rubens ceiling and the architecture of Inigo Jones (the artist who brought Renaissance classicism to Britain) lure visitors. The video and audio tour are overly pompous, so it’s better to visit the place as part of the lively Old Westminster tour offered by Original London Walks (see p231). Adm

Tate Britain more space for British art 15 G3 , SW1 • 020 7887 8000 www.tate.org.uk Open 10–5:50 daily Ever since more than half of the Tate’s collection sailed off down the Thames to set up home in Tate Modern, the original gallery has had to work hard to retain its audience. This it has done with aplomb – sprucing up the interior, creating more viewing space and focusing on British art. There is now more room to wander an excellent, wide-ranging collection, taking in the homely landscapes of Constable, the world’s largest assemblage of Turners (grouped in the Clore Galleries), the landscape-influenced modernism of Hepworth and Moore, and the savage, existential paintings of Francis Bacon. More up-to-date works can be seen in the Art Now spaces, one of which is used especially for video work. There’s a good (and pricey) restaurant in the basement, where the dining area is surrounded by a fantastical mural depicting the “pursuit of rare foods”.

Tate Britain hosts the annual Turner Prize for contemporary art, from October to December 99 Art & Architecture

The Art Boat a waterborne Hirst 15 G3 Millbank Pier to Operates 10am–5pm; 15-minute journey every 40 mins in each direction Sporting Damien Hirst’s trademark coloured dots, the Art Boat zips between Tates Britain and Modern. The cost includes as many trips as you like in a day, and the pier at Tate Modern is useful for other sights – the Globe (see p130), St Paul’s (via the Millennium Bridge), Borough Market (see p163) and Southwark Cathedral.

Sackler Wing, RA high-tech gallery space 9 E4 Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7300 8000 www.royalacademy.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 10pm Fri) While the main gallery of the Royal Academy puts on blockbuster shows (Monet, the Summer Exhibition), the Lord Norman Foster-designed Sackler Wing offers greater variety and more surprises. Recent exhibitions include Flemish manuscripts, Tamara de Lempicka, and the minimalist landscapes of William Nicholson. Adm

St James’s Piccadilly Wren’s joy 9 E4 197 Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7734 4511 www.st-james-piccadilly.org Open 8–7 daily This Wren church of 1684 is said to have been the architect’s favourite. It’s a little haven from the busy street outside, with a beautifully structured interior and astounding 1680s wood carvings by Grinling Gibbons. There’s also an energetic programme of events, including recitals most afternoons at 1:10pm.

Wren’s London St Stephen Walbrook provided a prototype for Christopher Wren’s influence on London stems from St Paul’s dome, and the steeple of St Mary-le-Bow the Great Fire of 1666, after which he was put in shows Wren’s appreciation for the Classical archit- charge of creating 51 new City churches and a new ectural orders. St Bride’s off Fleet Street, meanwhile, cathedral, St Paul’s. The ceiling and crypts of the provided inspiration, it is said, for the familiar cathedral are well worth viewing (8:30–4 Mon–Sat; tiered wedding cake. For location details, see p226. adm). A beautiful wooden model in the crypt reveals Original London Walks (see p231) do a Wren tour Wren’s original, more Classical design for St Paul’s. on Tuesday afternoons.

100 For ideas on how and where to buy art in London, see www.elondon.dk.com Centre & West

The Old Masters 8 C2 Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1 • 020 7563 9500 www.the-wallace-collection.org Open 10–5 daily

A stately Georgian house is the setting for this outstanding collection, left to the nation in 1897. Highlights include Frans Hals’s hugely famous, flamboyantly moustached Laughing Cavalier, and a touching painting by Rembrandt of his son Titus. Two brilliant portraits by Van Dyck hang close by. There are also several lively painted sketches by Rubens, including an Adoration of the Magi and the celebrated Rainbow Landscape. The Wallace Collection also celebrates the artistry found in the weaponry of Europe and the Middle East in past centuries, and includes a pair of pistols with stocks intricately carved with images of Samson and Hercules. The glass-roofed central courtyard is where you’ll find Café Bagatelle, a very civilized and relaxing spot for afternoon tea.

Serpentine Gallery contemporary art & architecture 7 H5 Kensington Gardens, W2 • 020 7402 6075 www.serpentinegallery.org Open 10–6 daily Located in a former tea house in Kensington Gardens, the Serpentine has built a reputation for putting on solo shows by some of the big guns of contemporary art. Each year, moreover, a different architect is invited to create a one-off summer pavilion in the grounds just outside the gallery – Zaha Hadid, Daniel Libeskind and Oscar Niemeyer have created brilliant structures in previous years.

Brompton Oratory Catholic encounter 14 A2 Brompton Rd, SW7 • 020 7808 0900 www.brompton-oratory.org.uk Built in the 1880s but looking like a product of 17th-century Italy, the Oratory’s façade gives way to a full-on Baroque interior, with no surface escaping ornamentation. An arched and many-domed roof provides a canvas for heavenly images. At ground level, dark confessionals occupy every corner.

Save money with the London Pass (www.visitlondon.com) if you want to visit a lot of attractions in one day 101 Art & Architecture

Exhibition Road museum row 13 H2 Science Museum • 0870 8704868 www.sciencemuseum.org.uk Open 10–6 daily Natural History Museum • 020 7942 5000 www.nhm.ac.uk Open 10–5:50 Mon–Sat, 11–5:50 Sun V&A • 020 7942 2000 www.vam.ac.uk Open 10–5.45 daily (to 10pm Wed)

Three very different museums, each of world renown, lie at the Cromwell Road end of Exhibition Road. Animatronic dinosaurs and interactive exhibits in the Earth Galleries draw hordes of families to the Natural History Museum. Visitors of a more artistic leaning may appreciate more the building itself, a won- derful creation by Alfred Waterhouse, with carvings of living species on the west side, extinct species on the east. Meanwhile, anyone interested in technology will enjoy the neighbouring Science Museum, not least for Charles Babbage’s Difference Engine of 1832, a vastly complicated automatic calculator that’s often been described as the world’s first computer. With fewer child-pleasing features, the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) is less crowded than its neigh- bours and all the more enjoyable for this. In particular, the Pirelli Garden courtyard and the beautiful Morris and Gamble Rooms (where there’s a new restaurant) are delightfully restful places. Elsewhere in the museum are the Sculpture and Painting Galleries; the 20th Century Galleries, which focus on product design; a brilliant Photography Gallery; and the British Galleries, which feature fashion, furniture and interiors from 1500 to 1900.

Linley Sambourne House 13 E1 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 • 020 7602 3316 www.rbkc.gov.uk/linleysambournehouse Tours Sat & Sun Home makeovers are nothing new, as proved by this beautifully preserved 1870s townhouse, former home of the noted Punch cartoonist. Glazed window boxes reflect the Victorian passion for conservatories, while bare patches behind paintings cruelly reveal the Sambournes’ frugal use of wallpaper. Adm

102 www.elondon.dk.com West, City & East

Leighton House Museum 12 D1 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 • 020 7602 3316 www.rbkc.gov.uk/LeightonHouseMuseum Open 11–5:30 Wed–Mon

This wonderfully idiosyncratic studio-house was built for the fashionable Victorian painter Frederick, Lord Leighton. Mirroring the success of his career, the house was aggrandized in the late 19th century, when its defining feature, the Arab Hall, was added. This lovely space has a pool with a tiny tinkling fountain, and walls decorated with deep turquoise tiles from Damascus. The back rooms, overlooking a pleasant garden (open Apr–Sep), are hung with paintings by the main Pre-Raphaelite players – Millais, Burne-Jones, Waterhouse – as well as Leighton’s exotic and incredibly detailed Oriental and Classical scenes. Upstairs, light pours into the studio and salon. Here, among paintings of varied success, are small landscape studies and preparatory sketches, which are some of Leighton’s most enduring works. Adm

St Bartholomew the Great 10 B2 West Smithfield, EC1 • 020 7606 5171 www.greatstbarts.com Open Tue–Sun exc during services Your imaginative powers are called upon to fully appreciate this 12th-century Norman priory, London’s oldest parish church. Much of the nave is now an open churchyard, and the former entrance door is now a gateway leading on to Smithfield Market. But it still has a lot of atmosphere.

19 Princelet Street a house of refuge 11 F1 Spitalfields, E1 • 020 7247 5352 www.19princeletstreet.org.uk Open occasional Sun afternoons & Refugee Week (mid-Jun); check website

Now set up as a small museum about immigration in Spitalfields, this terraced house was home to French Huguenots and, later, Jewish émigrés. Beyond the small front rooms is No. 19’s most startling secret: a creaking three-storey synagogue of 1869.

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Dennis Severs’ House time capsule 11 E1 18 Folgate Street, E1 • 020 7247 4013 www.dennissevershouse.co.uk Open Mon evenings by candlelight (booking required) & occasional afternoons

The modern world closes behind you as you enter this terraced house in Spitalfields. The late artist Dennis Severs interpreted the history of his home by furnishing its ten rooms in ways that evoke moments (more than just periods) in its past. Each room is a still life: in the front parlour, time seems to have stopped in the 1700s, with rich pies, half-eaten fruit and glasses of wine abandoned on the table. The cold and dusty attic rooms leap straight out of the early 1900s, with silk-weaving apparatus and crum- bling damp ceilings. The level of detail is extraordin- ary. Cracked oyster shells indicate a snack just eaten; the pungent scent of oranges, and lavender fills the nostrils. Clocks chime the hour, while a sly black cat ghosts about. Only by the sight of other visitors are you reminded of the present. Adm

Museum of the Order of St John 10 B1 St John’s Gate, EC1 • 020 7324 4070 www.sja.org.uk/museum Tours Tue, Fri & Sat Be sure to catch the hour-long tour that takes you down into a hidden 12th-century crypt, then up into a Tudor gatehouse. The history of the Knights of St John is fascinating and far-reaching – the Crusades, 14th- century Poll Tax Riots, Shakespeare, The Gentleman’s Magazine and modern first-aid volunteers all appear.

Whitechapel Gallery contemporary art 11 F2 80–82 Whitechapel High Street, E1 • 020 7522 7878 (recorded info) • 020 7522 7888 (enquiries) www.whitechapel.org Open 11–6 Tue–Sun (to 9 Thu)

One of London’s largest galleries, the Whitechapel puts on attention-grabbing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. The history of performance art and Gerhard Richter were among recent subjects. The slick café was designed by artist Liam Gillick.

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Geffrye Museum homes in history 5 E4 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 • 020 7739 9893 www.geffrye-museum.org.uk Open 10–5 Tue–Sat, 12–5 Sun A row of neat little almshouses has been converted into a charming museum on the theme of English domestic interiors and gardens of the last 400 years. The Victorian rooms reach a zenith of clutter before the modern world storms in with the 1930s house. An open loft apartment represents the 1990s.

Wapping Project Space art, industry, food Wall, E1 • 020 7680 2080 1 Wapping www.thewappingproject.com Open noon–10:30 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

At the same time that Tate Modern was reshaping Bankside Power Station, the smaller-scale Wapping Project Space was emerging from the defunct industrial space of Wapping Hydraulic Power Station. Brainchild of theatre director Jules Wright, WPS puts on lively shows of contemporary art, dance and music in a space that seems to have remained largely untouched since the time of its industrial death throes in the late 1970s. Bits of machinery stand idle, and sounds echo off concrete and metal surfaces. The space works particularly well for video projections and installations: Richard Wilson (Butterfly, 2003), Jane Prophet (Conductor, 2000) and Finnish artist Elina Brotherus (Baigneurs, 2004) have created brilliant works here. There’s an excellent restaurant too, called Wapping Food.

Victorian Cemeteries Brompton Cemetery is a more civilized affair, London’s great old cemeteries have a poetic equili- with sharp paths and avenues. Like Kensal Green, it brium, the artistry of stonemasons jostling for has a Neo-Classical temple; its silhouette and space with the natural world of brambles and trees. golden sandstone are especially striking in the Cemetery is where you’ll find the lumpish evening light. The wildest cemeteries are Abney bust of Karl Marx. Kensal Green Cemetery is home Park (see p173) and the gothic forest of Nunhead, to some fanciful Egyptian-style tombs and a chapel where angels and crucifixes seem to sprout from built to look like a Greek temple. ivy-clad trees. For location details, see p226.

Highgate Cemetery can be visited with a guided tour; for details, check www.highgate-cemetery.org 105 Art & Architecture

Docklands industrial past, commercial future Isle of Dogs, E14 • 1 Museum in Docklands: West India Quay • 0870 444 3857 www.museumindocklands.org.uk Open 10–6 daily

From the driverless trains of the DLR to the pumped-up steel and glass commercial buildings mushrooming all around, there is something exhilarating (albeit not pretty) about Docklands. A shiny new city has all but replaced the wharfs and warehouses of the old port. The Museum in Docklands, set in a beautiful brick warehouse, which once held spices, rum and cotton, tells the 2,000-year tale of London as a place of trade. That trade continues in the multinational offices at Canary Wharf, served by three interconnected shop- ping malls (Cabot Place, Canada Place and Jubilee Place). There are many pubs and restaurants, most of them chains. Two worth seeking out are 1802, a smart restaurant and bar next to the museum, overlooking Future Systems’ lime-green footbridge; and Conran’s stylish Plateau, on the fourth floor of Canada Place.

Estorick Collection Futurism 4 B1 39 Canonbury Sq, N1 • 020 7704 9522 www.estorickcollection.com Open 11–6 Wed–Sat, 12–5 Sun Tucked away on a leafy backroad, this gallery is dedi- cated to the Italian Futurist Movement of the early 20th century. It’s the perfect antidote to London’s gargan- tuan museums, a place to quietly peruse Severinis, Boccionis and also works by Modigliani and de Chirico. The House (see p49) is nearby for refreshment. Adm

Camden Arts Centre contemporary art Arkwright Road, NW3 • 020 7472 5500 • 1 Finchley Road www.camdenartscentre.org Open 10–6 Tue–Sun (to 9 Wed) Newly refurbished, the arts centre continues to showcase influential artists and Britain’s best up- and-coming talent. Art/architectural group MUF created the garden, which features a terrace that traces the “footprint” of two houses destroyed by a bomb during World War II.

106 For the latest news on the London art scene, check www.elondon.dk.com City, East & North

Lord’s sporting traditions, modern architecture Wellington Road, NW8 • 1 St John’s Wood www.lords.org Tours daily (020 7616 8595 to book) Lord’s is more than just a cricket ground: it is the home of the game, the keeper of its beguiling rules and the custodian of its traditions. You may be surprised, then, to discover that it also sports some leading-edge architecture. The stands surrounding the pitch are by Nicholas Grimshaw and Michael Hopkins – pioneers of High-Tech building design. In playful fashion, the Hopkins Stand has been designed to look rather like a temporary summer marquee. The Media Centre was built in 2000 by Future Systems. This sensuous white cocoon, created with the aid of boat manufacturers, rises dramatically from the Mound end, in contrast to the stately Victoriana of Thomas Verity’s Pavilion (1890) at the opposite end. Tours of Lord’s are conducted by cricket enthusiasts, and take in the ground’s architecture and the MCC Museum, which charts the history of cricket.

Fenton House 17th-century traditions 1 A4 Windmill Hill, NW3 • 020 7435 3471 www.national-trust.org.uk Open Apr–Oct: Sat & Sun 11–5, Wed–Fri 2–5

Set in formal gardens, this 17th-century house has displays of early keyboard instruments, fine Chinese porcelain and some precious English and Continental figurines. The Dining Room is the venue for a summer concert series of early music (some Thu May–Oct). Adm

2 Willow Road modern living perfected 1 C4 2 Willow Road, NW3 • 020 7435 6166 www.national-trust.org.uk Apr–Oct: noon–5 Thu–Sat; Mar & Nov: noon–5 Sat

The Modernist interior of the former home of architect Ernö Goldfinger is superb: flexible living areas, picture windows and sophisticated colour schemes are defining features. Dotted about are paintings by Henry Moore, Max Ernst and Bridget Riley. Adm

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Freud Museum the doctor’s final home 20Maresfield Gardens,NW3 •020 7435 2002• 1 Finchley Road www.freud.org.uk Open noon–5 Wed–Sun Preserved as the “Father of Psychoanalysis” left them, the library and study in Sigmund Freud’s house contain a great collection of Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Oriental antiquities. But pride of place goes to the original psychoanalytical couch, with its plumped- up cushions and richly patterned Persian rug. Adm

Kenwood House Masters on the Heath 1 C1 , NW3 • 020 8348 1286 www.englishheritage.org.uk Open Apr–Oct 10–5 daily; Nov–Mar 10–4 daily

Architect Robert Adam’s Neo-Classical house at the top of Hampstead Heath provides a stately home for the Iveagh Bequest. The collection includes paintings by Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough, as well as a late Rembrandt Self-Portrait and Vermeer’s Guitar Player.

Keats House home of the young Romantic 1 C5 Keats Grove, NW3 • 020 7435 2062 www.corpoflondon.gov.uk/keats Open mid-Apr–Oct: 12–5 Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 12–4 Tue–Sun

Romantic poet lived in this genteel house in 1818–20, hoping that the good air and waters of Hampstead would alleviate his tuberculosis. Letters, possessions and manuscripts tell the tale of a sensi- tive writer who died young. Adm

London’s Georgian Squares (8 D4) for its magnificent plane The most elegant chapter of London’s expansion trees; St James’s Square (9 E4) for its exceptional happened during the Georgian era (1714–1830), Georgian townhouse surrounds; Bloomsbury Square when homogeneous Neo-Classical streetscapes (9 G2) for its jollity; and Queen’s Square (9 G1) for were created, often set around garden squares. its tucked-away charm and enticing pubs and cafés Many of these squares are open to the public. on Cosmos Place. Many other squares to which Among the best are the quietish Golden Square access is normally restricted are open to all on the (Map 9 E3) and thronged Soho Square (9 F2); annual London Garden Squares Day (see p10).

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Saatchi Gallery home of 1990s Brit art 9 H5 County Hall, SE1 • Info 020 7823 2363 • Tickets 020 7928 8195 www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk Open 10–8 daily (to 10 Fri & Sat) Saatchi’s move to County Hall has brought the gallery closer to the cultural life of the South Bank, albeit in a spot that’s surrounded by games arcades and fast- food outlets. However, the collection is impressive, focusing on contemporary British artists, such as the Chapman brothers and Tracey Emin. Adm

Jerwood Space hot competition 10 B5 171 Union Street, SE1 • 020 7654 0171 www.jerwoodspace.co.uk Open Tue–Sun afternoons (opening times vary depending on the exhibition)

The programming at this contemporary art gallery is based on a series of annual prizes in a variety of media. Far from traditional, the work on show is cutting edge.

Hayward Gallery avant-garde shows 9 H4 South Bank Centre, SE1 • 020 7960 5226 www.hayward.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 8 Tue & Wed, to 9 Fri)

Arguably London’s premier gallery for temporary exhi- bitions, particularly of contemporary art, the Hayward is a versatile space. It was built in the late 1960s in a Brutalist style, and in recent years the occupiers have been learning to love it again. The interior has been stripped back to the original rough concrete surface that, when empty, gives it the appearance of a multi- storey car park. Brutal it may be, but it is a provoking alternative to the white-box look of many galleries. Paintings don’t necessarily look their best here, but the Hayward is an exceptional space for modern sculpture and multimedia installations. Video works such as Douglas Gordon’s 24-Hour Psycho have been highly acclaimed. The new foyer, incorporating a glass pavilion by Dan Graham, houses touch-sensitive screens playing a mix of cartoons and art videos. Adm

Summer concerts are held in the grounds of Kenwood House (see p10) 109 Art & Architecture

Old Operating Theatre scary surgery 10 D5 9a St Thomas’s Street, SE1 • 020 7955 4791/020 7188 2679 www.thegarret.org.uk Open 10:30–5 daily Accessed via a Herb Garret that lulls you with the idea of quaint botanical potions, the operating theatre of 1822 comes as a shock. An oversize chopping board is set on a stage surrounded by tiered seats for stu- dents and onlookers, while in an adjacent room is a vast array of knives and amputation saws. Adm

Design Museum modern design institute 11 F5 28 Shad Thames, SE1 • 0870 8339955 www.designmuseum.org Open 10–5:45 daily (to 9 Fri, Apr–Oct) Temporary exhibitions take in the breadth of modern designers, from 19th-century engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel to music-industry graphic artist Peter Saville. On the top floor there is a permanent collection of mass-produced design classics – check out how many you have owned. Adm

South London Gallery big players/new blood 65 Peckham Road, SE5 • 020 7703 6120 1 Oval, then bus 36 www.southlondongallery.org Open 12–6 Tue–Sun

This one-hall gallery stages exhibitions of contempo- rary artists. International names have included Sherrie Levine and Christian Boltanski; home-grown talents have included Tracey Emin and Sarah Lucas.

Independent & Commercial Galleries on Heddon Street, are Sadie Coles HQ and Gagosian. The most exciting galleries for up-and-coming artists Gagosian has also opened a space on Britannia are mainly in East London. There are clusters in Street at King’s Cross. There are many galleries Hoxton (see p162), including White Cube and The around Cork Street, but don’t miss Stephen Agency, and near Victoria Park (Matt’s Gallery, Friedman on neighbouring Old Burlington Street. Chisenhale, The Showroom and Wilkinson Gallery). One of the best is out on its own: the Lisson near There’s also a small gallery, The Approach, above a . Try www.newexhibitions.com friendly pub of the same name. In Central London, for information. For location details, see p225.

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Tate Modern power plant of modern art 10 B4 displays of work by Matisse, Rodin, Bruce Nauman Bankside, SE1 • 020 7887 8000 and other giants of modern art. This approach may www.tate.org.uk Open 10–6 Sun–Thu, 10–10 Fri & Sat have its drawbacks, but it’s a refreshing way to view Since it opened in 2000, Tate Modern has been the works of art, giving the exhibition the feel of spectacularly popular. A large part of this success is a contemporary group show rather than a place due to the building itself: a monolithic, brown-brick of academia. power station transformed into an elegant Modernist Tate Modern has an increasingly strong quota of gallery by architects Herzog & de Meuron. video work, including Bill Viola’s monumental Five The vast Turbine Hall is the dramatic focus of the Angels for the Millennium and Paul McCarthy’s seminal building, installations (each in situ for six months) Rocky (1976), in which the artist beats himself up and have been created by artists such as Louise Bourgeois, collapses into a naked heap. Amid this vastness and Juan Muñoz and Olafur Eliasson. The dimensions of energy, it is good to know that small paintings can still the hall are so great – it’s 155 m (500 ft) long by 35 m hold their own, as exemplified by Picasso’s exquisite (115 ft) – that works have been increasingly theatrical Girl in a Chemise (1905). in an attempt to fill the void. In Weather Project (2004), The Level 4 galleries are given over to invariably for example, Olafur Eliasson filled the hall with brilliant temporary exhibitions, for which an entrance orange light from a giant “sun”, covered the entire fee is charged. There is a moderately priced café on ceiling with mirrors and pumped in steamy clouds. Level 2, offering good food and efficient, friendly The permanent collection is relatively modest for service. The café on Level 7 gets extremely busy – if the size of building, occupying just two of the floors. you want the views, visit before or after the lunchtime The regular rotation of pieces result in compelling rush (12:30–2:30pm) and be prepared to wait.

As well as offering free guided tours daily, the Tate Modern has also introduced Palm Pilot tours 111 Art & Architecture

Dulwich Picture Gallery fine paintings Gallery Road, Dulwich Village, SE21 • 020 8693 5254 £ www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk Open 10–5 Tue–Fri, 11–5 Sat & Sun

Leafy Dulwich is home to a small and perfectly formed collection of European Old Master paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries. The gallery was purpose-built in 1811 by Sir John Soane (see p97) and is illuminated mainly by natural light entering through lantern windows – a Soane innovation that has been much copied. This creates a perfect, even light in which to compare the artistic forces of Italy, France, the and . The quality of the work is extremely high, as exemplified by Guido Reni’s St Sebastian: two other versions of the composition exist, one in the Prado, the other in the Louvre. There’s also a delicate little Rembrandt (Portrait of Jacob III de Gheyn), and works by Raphael, Poussin, Rubens, Hogarth and Gainsborough, including the instantly recognisable Unknown Couple in a Landscape. There are many wonderful smaller discoveries too, such as a recently restored River Landscape by Aelbert Cuyp, perfectly described as a “tiny limpid masterpiece” in the wall text. Restoration included removing a herd of cows that had been added in the 1800s. A recent overhaul of the gallery by architect Rick Mather has added a glazed cloister and a moderately priced café-restaurant. Dulwich itself centres around a pleasant park and the Crown & Greyhound pub. Adm

Queen’s House architectural delight 16 C2 Greenwich Park, SE10 • 020 8312 6565 www.nmm.ac.uk Open 10–5 daily Besides some fine furniture and a few paintings of note, the triumph of Queen’s House is its architecture. This is the work of Inigo Jones (1573–1652), and in details such as the Tulip spiral staircase you can see not only the Classicism that this building precipitated in Britain, but also a foreshadowing of Modernism.

112 To find the lesser-known sights of London, check www.elondon.dk.com South

Eltham Palace medieval meets Art Deco Court Yard, SE9 • 020 8294 2548 • £ Eltham www.elthampalace.org.uk Open Apr–Oct: 10–5 Sun–Wed, Nov–Mar: 10–4 Sun–Wed

Having fallen ungracefully from its status as one of Henry VIII’s hunting residences to become a humble barn in the 18th century, salvation finally came for Eltham Palace in the 1930s. By then, all that remained were the Banqueting Hall and parts of the garden, including the moat bridge. Arts patron Stephen Courtauld decided to restore the Hall and build a new, and very modern, country house around it. Designed by Seely and Paget, the 1930s house is a seductive piece of Art Deco styling, with sweeping, light-filled rooms; curving walls lined with maple, aspen and sycamore panelling; and ocean-liner style furnishings. It’s easy to envisage the sophisticated, Martini-sipping party set who would have weekended with the gregarious Courtaulds. Stories abound about Jonggy, the pet ring-tailed lemur who favoured the Flower Room when he wasn’t up in his bunk. Adm

Along the River sunset (see p18). The is also handy It’s taken a while, but the Thames shows clear signs for the Saatchi Gallery (see p109), London Aquarium of having undergone a renaissance. Its waters are (www.londonaquarium.co.uk) and, across West- cleaner than they’ve been for several centuries, the minster Bridge, the Houses of Parliament, West- riverbank is alive with culture (see p164) and minster Abbey and St Margaret’s Church (see p99). increasing numbers of boats now ply up and down Boats run over longer distances: Westminster Pier the river. The waterway is a brilliant means of or to Greenwich (see p174) is a traversing the city along its east-west axis: (every 40–45 minutes from 10am–3:45pm; Houses of Parliament show their most elegant side, returning until 5:20pm); and Westminster Pier to the views of the bridges are unparalleled, and the Kew (see p175) and Hampton Court (11am and noon; many stop-off points are situated right outside one-and-a-half hours to Kew, three-and-a-half hours some of London’s most attractive sights. to Hampton Court, see p12). The Art Boat (see p100) ferries up and down the Of the river websites, www.transportforlondon. river between Tate Britain (see p99) and Tate Modern gov.uk/river gives the best information for river (see p111) – a 15-minute trip every 40 minutes in each travel; www.riverthames.co.uk has a lively direction. The boat stops off at the London Eye overview of the entire river and associated events, (www.londoneye.com), too. The views from this over- including boat races; while www.citycruises.com is size fairground wheel can be amazing, especially at a company offering historical tours.

You can walk all the way along the south bank of the Thames between Waterloo and 113 performance

London’s theatres in the West End and on the South Bank are world famous, but cutting-edge drama is increasingly found further afield, in places such as the Tricycle in Kilburn and the Almeida, Islington. The city’s musical stage stretches from the cupboard-sized 12 Bar Club to the majestic . A lively comedy circuit is found in a host of pubs and clubs, while cinemas dotted around the city compete for coolness. TOP CHOICES – performance

CLASSICAL VENUES DANCE CUTTING-EDGE THEATRE

Wigmore Hall Sadler’s Wells Tricycle 36 Wigmore Street, W1 Rosebery Avenue, EC1 269 Kilburn High Road, NW6 The fine acoustics of the Wigmore The Wells is an attractive venue for Political and satirical plays are given Hall’s beautiful auditorium make it performances by the big names of an airing at the Tricycle, a theatre an outstanding venue for classical modern dance, such as Michael that dares to experiment with our music. (See p122) Clark and Ballet Rambert. (See p126) expectations of drama. (See p129)

St John’s Smith Square The Place The Tricycle also has a vibrant café- Smith Square, SW1 17 Duke’s Road, WC1 bar, an adjoining repertory cinema and An 18th-century church arena is the Experimental dance is showcased an art gallery, making the journey to pre-eminent venue for performances at the Robin Howard Dance Theatre, Kilburn well worth the trek. of Early Music. The lunchtime which is part of this centre for concerts are a bargain. (See p122) dance education. (See p122)

Purcell Room/Queen Laban Centre Elizabeth Hall Creekside, SE8 Belvedere Road, SE1 Two performance spaces for There’s no need to dress up for these avant-garde dance are set in a concert halls. There are two superb state-of-the-art building. resident orchestras. (See p129) (See p130)

Royal Opera House The Clore Studio at the Royal Donmar Warehouse Bow Street, WC2 Opera House is an additional space for 41 Earlham Street, WC2 London’s most lavish setting for experimental contemporary dance. A mixture of cerebral drama and operatic productions and perform- big-name actors has been key to ances by the Royal Ballet has a the success of the Donmar. It’s an high-class atmosphere. (See p118) intense, intimate space. (See p118)

National Theatre South Bank, SE1 Of the National’s three auditoria, the Cottesloe studio is the most versatile space for small-scale, experimental productions. (See p129)

Almeida Almeida Street, N1 A beguilingly light and airy foyer-café leads onto a brooding auditorium where brilliant, nerve-jangling drama is the norm. (See p126)

116 Find out what’s on in London now with www.elondon.dk.com TOP CHOICES – performance

GIG VENUES JAZZ & BLUES COMEDY

Borderline 606 Club Hackney Empire Orange Yard, Manette Street, WC2 90 Lots Road, SW10 Mare Street, E8 Enjoy the sweaty fun as new bands This stalwart of the British jazz Long-established as a venue for thrash out their songs. US bands scene is set in a basement in comedy, the Empire attracts well- often get their first UK footing Chelsea. Book a table. (See p123) known comics such as Paul Merton, here too. (See p119) Jenny Eclair and Bill Bailey. (See p125)

Shepherd’s Bush Empire Comedy Store Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 1a Oxendon Street, SW1 This mid-scale hall with an At this legendary club, energetic excellent sound system is stand-up comedy is performed especially suited to gigs by to an audience that takes no solo artists. (See p123) prisoners. (See p121)

12 Bar Club Ronnie Scott’s Comedy Café 22–3 , WC2 47 Frith Street, W1 66–8 Rivington Street, EC2 Tiny it may be, but on a good night London’s best-loved jazz venue. Stick Situated in one of the liveliest parts this venue, set among the music around for the late-night sessions, of town, the Comedy Café provides shops of “Tin Pan Alley”, has an when musicians pull out all the stops. drinks, snacks and laughs by the electric atmosphere. (See p119) (See p121) bucket-load. (See p125)

The pub circuit is a big part of the music scene for hard-working bands trying to make their mark. Check out the Hope & Anchor on Upper Street, Islington – a bar with great rock heritage.

Jazz Café 5 Parkway, NW1 The Jazz Café provides a broad mix of jazz-influenced music – everything from funky Roy Ayers to lyrical rapper Q-Tip. (See p127)

Tickets can be booked online for many London music venues 117 Performance

Royal Opera House ballet & opera 9 G3 Bow Street, Covent Garden, WC2 • 020 7304 4000 www.royaloperahouse.org Tours: three daily at 10:30, 12:30 and 2:30

Shared by the Royal Ballet and Royal Opera, the Opera House is a magnificent theatre, the tiers of its auditorium rising to precipitous heights, topped off with a richly decorated ceiling. The ballet programme offers classical pieces with a few modern works. Swan Lake, The Dream and The Rite of Spring were 2005 productions. In the same year, operatic performances included Rigaletto, Die Walküre and La Bohème. Tickets range from under £5 (restricted view bench seats up in the gods) to more than £150. On Mondays, some seats are offered at huge discounts. The Linbury Studio is a modest alternative for experimental dance and small ensemble concerts. On Mondays, free lunchtime recitals are held here or in the Crush Room, one of the Opera House’s many spaces for eating, drinking and socializing.

Poetry Café hub of poetry life in London 9 G3 22 Betterton Street, WC2 • 020 7420 9888 www.poetrysociety.org.uk Open 11–11 Mon–Fri, 6:30–11 Sat This is a good café in its own right, the fare ranging from Marmite on toast and a cup of tea to decent wine. It’s also the venue for readings, poetry and jazz nights, open-mike slots and poetry slams. Come here to find out about the more itinerant poetry events around town, too.

Donmar Warehouse innovative theatre 9 F3 41 Earlham St, WC2 • 0870 0606624 www.donmarwarehouse.com Now under the directorship of Michael Grandage, the Donmar continues the success it achieved under Sam Mendes, who persuaded Nicole Kidman and other stars to perform on stage here. Productions have included Jonathan Kent’s Hecuba and Grand Hotel, directed by Michael Grandage.

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12 Bar Club live gigs in a tiny room 9 F2 22–3 Denmark Street, WC2 • 020 7916 6989 www.12barclub.com Club open from 8pm daily Hosting several acts each night in an upstairs room accessed via a tight alley, the 12 Bar is a great place to hear the ballads of an accomplished singer- songwriter. That said, it also puts on a frenetic London Callin’ night (last Sat of the month), which draws on the capital’s punk and ska heritage.

Arts Theatre popular & offbeat drama 9 F3 Great Newport Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3334 www.artstheatre.com Following a varied life over the last few decades, the Arts Theatre is trying to regain its touch for cutting- edge drama – a reputation it had in the days when it premiered Samuel Beckett’s English-language version of Waiting For Godot. Tynan, a RSC production based on the diaries of Kenneth Tynan, was a more recent hit.

ENO @ The Coliseum opera in English 9 G4 St Martin’s Lane, WC2 • 020 7632 8300 www.eno.org Now back in its superbly revamped building, the English National Opera continues with its mission to present opera in the English tongue. To further popu- larize the art form, 500 seats are available for just £10 on weekdays. There are great views across Trafalgar Square from the public area on the top floor.

Borderline tomorrow’s rock stars today 9 F3 Orange Yard, Manette Street • 020 7434 9592 www.borderline.co.uk A small venue (capacity under 300) with a big reputation – bands such as REM, Oasis, Blur and Pulp have played at this hot and sweaty little club. More than this, though, it’s a place for new bands to break through and for stalwarts of the US circuit to find a British audience.

Check www.applesandsnakes.org for poetry events 119 Performance

Mean Fiddler small venue, great sound 9 F3 168 Charing Cross Road, WC2 • 020 7434 9592 www.meanfiddler.com The Mean Fiddler puts on fewer gigs and more obscure names than the famous Astoria next door, but the prox- imity of musicians and audience, and the quality of the sound system ensure that it’s an ideal place to catch up-and-coming bands. “Rock” is the capital’s premier rock night held every Fri 11–3:30.

Soho Theatre literary haunt 9 F3 21 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7478 0100 www.sohotheatre.com Not only a theatre but also a scriptwriting centre, this modern venue in the heart of Soho takes plenty of risks with new writers. Expect the work to be fresh, enthusiastic and maybe rough around the edges. It’s also a comedy venue, with leading circuit regulars Ricky Gervais and Kiki and Herb gracing the stage.

Curzon Soho art-house cinema 9 F3 99 Shaftesbury Ave, W1 • 020 7734 2255 www.curzoncinemas.com The Curzon screens the best international releases and special features, such as seasons of Eastern European films or short art films. Few other cinemas would screen Eduardo Paolozzi’s 14-minute History of Nothing. Sunday is repertory day, offering such classics as Alphaville or Rear Window.

Buying Tickets for West End Shows day of the performance (open 10–7 Mon–Sat, As a general rule, the cheapest tickets are sold at 12–3:30 Sun). For further information: www.official theatre box offices. If a show is sold out, you might londontheatre.co.uk has play summaries and be able to buy returns just before a performance. tickets (it’s linked with a pamphlet available at More expensive seats will usually be available most theatres); www.thisistheatre.com provides through a STAR-regulated ticket agent. London has details about performances and the history of just one official discounted tickets booth, in the venues; www.londontheatre.co.uk has seating middle of Leicester Square, offering tickets on the plans and links to booking agencies.

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Ronnie Scott’s jazz stalwart 9 F3 47 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7439 0747 www.ronniescotts.co.uk Open 8:30pm–3am Mon–Sat (music starts 9:30), Sun 7:30–11

Some of the big jazz names from the US may now favour larger venues such as the Festival Hall or the Barbican, but you can’t beat the intensity of being just a few feet away from a group of musicians when they hit a groove or start pushing their skills to the limits. On a good night, Ronnie Scott’s offers just such an experience and thereby hangs on to its reputation as the best jazz club in London. There are two music sessions most nights. Food is served during the first. In the late-night session, with the audience’s hunger sated, attention can focus more fully on the music. In turn, the musicians often produce their best performances after midnight. Upstairs is a dance venue, where DJs spin Afro- Cuban rhythms as the soundtrack for salsa, or 70s and 80s funk and soul for the Big City Groove nights.

Prince Charles Cinema cosy film house 9 F3 7 Leicester Place, W1 • 020 7494 3654 • 0901 2727007 www.princecharlescinema.com A cineaste’s dream, this cinema is like a private viewing room, with sensual red plush seats designed for chilling out. It’s a cinema with eclectic programming, showing an array of cult and world cinema, with regular seasonal film festivals and events. The glitzy bar and kiosk serve drinks, snacks and savouries.

Comedy Store radical club comes of age 9 F4 1a Oxendon St, SW1 • 0870 060 2340 www.thecomedystore.co.uk The Store opened in 1979 as a punkish riposte to the gag-merchants who then dominated Britain’s comedy landscape, and it helped to create a new genre of free- wheeling stand-up. It’s a more conventional venue these days, but something of that initial spirit persists with the Sunday and Wednesday improv nights.

A booking fee is normally charged if you book theatre or concert tickets through online agencies 121 Performance

The Place thrilling moves 3 F5 17 Duke’s Road, WC1 • 020 7387 0031 www.theplace.org.uk The Place is home to the London Contemporary Dance School and the Richard Alston Dance Company. The primary stage is the Robin Howard Dance Theatre, where you can see the work of recent graduates as well as that of established choreo- graphers and companies from around the world.

St John’s chamber music 15 G2 Smith Square, SW1 • 020 7222 1061 www.sjss.org.uk An elegant Baroque church of 1728 provides a beautiful setting for its schedule of classical music, as well as an acoustically excellent one. The Academy of Ancient Music and the London Chamber Orchestra perform regularly, and there’s a very reasonable Thursday lunchtime concert series (tickets £5).

Wigmore Hall supreme classical venue 8 C2 36 Wigmore St, W1 • 020 7935 2141 www.wigmore-hall.org.uk World-renowned for recitals, Wigmore Hall should be the first destination for lovers of classical and early music. The concert hall was built in 1901, its architect Thomas Collcutt making extensive use of marble and alabaster for the walls and flooring, which greatly contributes to the room’s harmonics. The fine quality of resonance has attracted some of the world’s most acclaimed musicians and composers over the decades, including Saint-Saëns, Prokofiev, Francis Poulenc, Benjamin Britten and Jacqueline du Pré. Major artists continue to be drawn here; recent performers have included the Hilliard Ensemble, Angela Hewitt and Joanna Macgregor. The Wigmore also attracts a very loyal audience, especially appreciative of the hall’s intimacy. In addition to daily evening performances, there are Monday lunchtime recitals and coffee concerts on Sundays (see p13).

122 Buy tickets online at www.elondon.dk.com Centre & West

Electric Cinema plush film house 6 D3 191 Portobello Rd, W11 • 020 7908 9696 www.the-electric.co.uk A beautifully renovated, single-screen cinema, with the most comfortable audience seating in London. You can put your feet up on footstools, sit back in a wide leather chair, and casually reach across to your drink on a side table. This is Club-Class cinema-going, with a bar for wine, beer and snacks at the back (which closes 5 minutes before films begin) and two- seater sofas on which the romantically inclined can snuggle up. The programming is excellent too, with choice films from around the world, as well as the best of Hollywood’s auteurs. On Sunday afternoons, the cinema screens low-priced double-bill features. Another string to the Electric’s bow is its next-door brasserie, which is open from 8am for breakfasts, then rolls on throughout the day and evening, serving up perfect brasserie food, from club sandwiches and whitebait to lamb chops and char-grilled fish.

606 Club jazz with food and drink 13 G5 90 Lots Rd, SW10 • 020 7352 5953 www.606club.co.uk Open nightly Geared towards the British jazz scene (and, yes, there is one), this cosy basement bar-restaurant club – with brick walls, café furniture and low lighting – is open to non-members if you book for a meal. This is the only way to get a drink as well, and a fee is added to the bill for the music.

Shepherd’s Bush Empire hot gigs 6 A5 Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 • 020 8354 3300 www.shepherds-bush-empire.co.uk This one-time TV theatre is much loved by musicians requiring acoustic subtlety. Celebrated artists such as Nancy Sinatra, Nitin Sawhney and Van Morrison and the Wailers have played here in 2005 to critical acclaim. There are usually three or four live shows most weeks.

The BBC Proms concert series is one of the world’s largest classical music festivals (see p11) 123 Performance

Riverside Studios arts innovation 12 A4 Crisp Road, W6 • 020 8237 1111 www.riversidestudios.co.uk Riverside Studios is a small arts centre with great scope and ambition. A repertory cinema offers nightly double bills of world movies, while two performance spaces serve up a wide array of international fare, from Colombian dance to Iranian theatre. The café- bar has a pleasant terrace overlooking the Thames.

Barbican cultural gathering place 10 C1 Silk Street, EC2 • 0845 120 7550 www.barbican.org.uk A major arts centre to rival the South Bank (see p129), the Barbican was hewn from Brutalist concrete in a radical piece of urban planning. Beyond breezy walkways and concourses overlooked by apartments, the interior public spaces are open and welcoming. There’s an excellent concert hall, a distinctly loungy cinema (independent, art house and repertory), a theatre and an experimental drama space, the Pit. The concert hall is home to the accomplished London Symphony Orchestra and also hosts contem- porary classical music, rock gigs and jazz – recent artists have included Ornette Coleman Quartet, Papa Wemba and Herbie Hancock Residency. The Barbican Theatre stages a mix of drama and dance. The Black Rider – a collaboration by author William Burroughs, Tom Waits and director Robert Wilson – premiered here in 2004, starring Marianne Faithfull.

The Spitz live bands 11 F1 109 Commercial Street, E1 • 020 7392 9032 www.spitz.co.uk Open 11am–midnight Mon–Sat (to 1 Thu, Fri & Sat), 10am–10:30pm Sun

An arty bar and music venue in an increasingly lively part of town, is set in a room above Spitalfields Market (see p161). Relax to some rootsy sounds or submit to an acoustic onslaught from some avant-garde electro wizard of the knobs and dials.

124 www.elondon.dk.com West, City & East

Hackney Empire restored theatrical gem 5 H1 Mare Street, E8 • 020 8985 2424 www.hackneyempire.co.uk Having undergone a massive £15 million refurbish- ment, the Hackney Empire is back in business. The interior, designed by music hall architect Frank Matcham in 1901, is a superb piece of Victorian show- manship. A multicultural hodge-podge of influences from India, Italy and the Middle East is rendered into tiers that subtly reflect the social hierarchy of the time: plenty of curvy ornamentation for the rich; a lick of paint and a side entrance for the poorer patrons. The fanciful setting makes any night out here feel special, but the programme of events deserves equal praise for its mission to bring every kind of entertain- ment to a downtrodden part of town. Comedy, which was the strongest element pre-refurb, now vies with opera, jazz, classical, cabaret, drama and dance. A few international acts feature among local and national companies.

Comedy Café food, drinks and laughter 5 E5 66–8 Rivington Street, EC2 • 020 7739 5706 www.comedycafe.co.uk Open from 7:30pm Wed–Sat One of London’s best places for stand-up. There’s usually a couple of established acts such as Nick Revell, Julia Morris or Milton Jones in the line-up. The club’s rather American in feel, with orderly table seating, pitchers of beer and burgers rather than pints and packets of crisps. Wednesday is open-mike spot.

Ocean superb live venue 5 H1 270 Mare St, E8 • 020 8533 0111 www.ocean.org.uk Bar open 10am–late daily (from 6pm Sun) One of London’s newest and best live music clubs, Ocean offers a state-of-the-art sound system and various spaces (medium, small and tiny) for gigs. One night you might witness the antics of Lee Scratch Perry, the next it might be 1980s throwbacks Level 42. There’s a separate DJ-bar (Aqua) at street level.

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Walthamstow Dog Track fast canines Road, E4 • 020 8498 3300 • 1 Walthamstow Central, then bus 97, 357, 215 or W11 www.wsgreyhound.co.uk Racing on Tue, Thu & Sat; lunchtimes Mon & Fri

Winner of Racecourse of the Year 2004, even celebrities such as Brad Pitt & Claudia Schiffer place a bet here. Enjoy the comfort of the Paddock Grill or mix with the commoners in the Popular Enclosure. (See also p16.)

Sadler’s Wells vibrant dance theatre 4 A4 Rosebery Avenue, EC1 • 0870 737 7737 www.sadlers-wells.com A superb modern theatre, Sadler’s Wells is primarily a dance venue, though it does feature opera as well. Choreographer/dancer Michael Clark produced two acclaimed works in 2003 and 2004, and the venue has also showcased Argentinian tango, the Rambert Dance Company and the Dance Theatre of Harlem.

Scala live bands, club nights and more 3 H4 275 Road, N1 • 020 7833 2022 www.-london.co.uk The Scala positions itself as an alternative venue, putting on a mix of live acts (indie, world music and unsigned bands), as well as a staple of adventurous club nights. The Scala’s events often have more than one focus on a given night, so live bands may well share the spotlight with DJs and film screenings.

Almeida pioneering theatre 4 B2 Almeida Street, off Upper St, N1 • 020 7359 4404 www.almeida.co.uk The Almeida had a revamp in 2002, acquiring Michael Attenborough as creative director along with a smart new foyer and café-bar. Attenborough’s tenure has overseen the hugely acclaimed Festen and world premiere of Sebastian Barry’s Whistling Psyche. The auditorium is a stark, serious and resonant space.

126 www.elondon.dk.com City, East & North

King’s Head Theatre Bar pub-theatre 4 B2 115 Upper Street, N1 • 020 7226 8561 www.kingsheadtheatre.org A good pub on Islington’s Upper Street has the added attraction of a tiny little theatre out the back. You can order a pre-theatre dinner as well, for a full evening’s entertainment. Performances range from newly penned works to well-worn classics. Many stars have played here, including Ben Kingsley and Alan Rickman.

Union Chapel atmospheric gigs 4 B1 Compton Avenue, N1 • Info 020 7226 1686; tickets from Reckless Records on Upper St or at www.wegottickets.com www.unionchapel.org.uk

The Union Chapel, a working Congregational church, is a wonderfully Gothic setting for live gigs. Sit beneath its dramatic arches and soak up the atmosphere with Hungarian folk groups or creative pop musicians such as Björk. It also hosts occasional comedy nights.

Jazz Café showcase for musical innovators 2 D3 5 Parkway, NW1 • 020 7916 6060 www.jazzcafe.co.uk Open 7pm–1am Mon–Thu, 7pm–2am Fri & Sat, 12–4pm (jam session) & 7pm–midnight Sun

Not only jazz, but also soul, funk, world, latin, R&B and hip-hop are performed here, so the Jazz Café’s remit is broad indeed. What the performers tend to share is musical inventiveness. So, if it’s a hip-hop night, you’re less likely to see a mainstream artist such as Jäy–Z than you are to witness the lyrical flow of Q- Tip or the psychedelic ramblings of The Pharcyde. As popular with performers as it is with regulars, the Jazz Café welcomes back time and again the big names of the jazz/funk/soul world, such as Gil Scott Heron and Roy Ayers (who’s practically made the place his second home). In terms of creature comforts, the Jazz Café on the balcony offers European cuisine, while the downstairs bar, located in the livelier, dancier area right in front of the stage, does a brisk trade in beers and cocktails.

The Almeida Restaurant, opposite the theatre, has moderately priced modern European cuisine 127 Performance

Jongleurs comedy in comfort 2 D2 Middle Yard, Chalk Farm Road, NW1 • 0870 787 0707 www.jongleurs.com The Jongleurs empire started in Battersea just over 20 years ago. Battersea and Camden have both been revamped but Camden is the smartest operation, rolling out a mix of decent fast food, jugs of beer and laughs aplenty. Established comics – such as Sean Meo, Adam Hills and Gina Yashere – are regulars.

Hampstead Theatre fresh new plays Eton Avenue, NW3 • 020 7722 9301 • 1 Swiss Cottage www.hampsteadtheatre.com Ensconced in a brand new light and airy home, the Hampstead Theatre now has a larger auditorium, with about 300 seats, and an extra studio space for its most experimental work. Its ethos, however, remains unchanged, and so it will continue to develop and promote new writing and young actors.

Everyman superior cinema 1 A5 5 Holly Bush Vale, NW3 • 0870 066 4777 www.everymancinema.com This is cinema-going at its most sophisticated. The auditorium has an upper balcony of leather seats and cushions, plenty of leg room and excellent sight lines – so no having to stare at the silhouette of someone’s coiffured hair instead of the action on screen. Indeed, the Everyman has the feel of a private club, with two comfortable lounges and a bar offering a good selection of whiskies, beers and wines, and a little tapas menu, in addition to the two screening rooms. You could easily idle away an afternoon or evening here without even seeing a film, instead playing rounds of backgammon, chess, jenga or mikado – a selection of games available from the reception desk. However, it would be a shame to forego the pleasures of an excellent cinema programme, which takes the pick of new films and a second look at recent releases, and also offers classics and themed seasons.

128 To find venues accessible to disabled people, check www.elondon.dk.com North & South

Tricycle experimental drama 269 Kilburn High Rd, NW6 • 020 7328 1000 • 1 Kilburn www.tricycle.co.uk Comprising a theatre, cinema, gallery and café-bar, the Tricycle is best known for its political and some- times satirical plays. Musapha Matura’s Playboy of the West Indies and Irish comedy Stones in His Pockets are among the productions that had their first London runs at the Tricycle.

National Theatre 9 H4 South Bank, SE1 • 020 7452 3400; bookings 020 7452 3000 www.nationaltheatre.org.uk Behind foyer areas arranged on several levels are three auditoria: the fan-shaped Olivier Theatre; the smaller Lyttelton; and the Cottesloe, an experimental studio space. The programme accommodates classical and popular theatre – from big productions to experimental drama – and spectacular musicals.

South Bank Centre music, music, music 9 H4 Belvedere Road & South Bank, SE1 • 0870 3800400 www.rfh.org.uk The South Bank Centre comprises three contrasting music venues: the Festival Hall for symphonies, the Queen Elizabeth Hall for chamber music and the Purcell Room, which specializes in solo and small ensemble performances. Rock/pop and jazz events are also hosted, including the annual Meltdown Festival each June/July. Two symphony orchestras are resident: the world-renowned Philharmonia and the highly praised London Philharmonic. The smaller London Sinfonietta also plays regularly. The South Bank Centre is superb at putting on free entertainment too, most events taking place in the foyer/bar area and ballroom of the Festival Hall. The Commuter Jazz series is a regular Friday slot from 5pm. In summer 2005, the Festival Hall started the next stage of its renovation, which will affect parts of the building until Jan 2007. (See also p164.)

For listings of London’s many comedy venues, see www.comedyonline.co.uk 129 Performance

National Film Theatre movies galore 9 H4 South Bank, SE1 • 020 7928 3232 www.bfi.org.uk This repertory cinema excels in themed seasons – some populist (Audrey Hepburn), others more for art- house aficionados (early Buñuel and Cocteau shorts). It’s the main venue for the London Film Festival too (see p11). Three screens provide serene conditions for film-viewing: no rustling sweet papers here.

Old Vic theatrical transatlantic crossover 10 A5 The Cut, SE1 • Box office 0870 0606628 www.oldvictheatre.com Built in 1818, the Old Vic is one of London’s oldest theatres still in use and can list Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud, Vivien Leigh and Alec Guinness among its thespian credentials. With Kevin Spacey now at the helm as artistic director, the ambition is to trans- fer successful productions from here to Broadway.

Shakespeare’s Globe Tudor revival 10 C4 Bankside, SE1 • 020 7401 9919 www.shakespeares-globe.org Theatre season: May–Sep Recreating the ambience of Shakespearean theatre, the Globe is largely roofless, hence the summer-only season of the Bard’s plays. There’s bench seating in the middle and upper galleries; otherwise you have to stand, and will be encouraged to chip in with earthy comments rather than just polite applause.

Laban dance for the 21st century 16 A3 Creekside, SE8 • Box office 020 8469 9500 www.laban.org Housed in a prestigious building by Herzog & de Meuron (architects of Tate Modern), Laban is a centre for dance education and performance. Two venues, the Bonnie Bird and Studio theatres, offer contem- porary dance and physical theatre, sometimes mixed with electronic media, such as video projections.

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Ritzy Brixton’s picture palace Coldharbour Lane, SW2 • 020 7733 2229 • 1 Brixton www.picturehouses.co.uk Hugely popular with Brixtonians, the Ritzy is as much a place to meet up and hang out as a cinema per se; its upstairs café-bar is great for lounging to easygoing tracks laid down by the DJs. But with five screens, the Ritzy also has a diverse programme, mixing popular new releases with highlights from world cinema.

Battersea Arts Centre in the studio Lavender Hill, SW11 • 020 7223 2223 • £ Clapham Junction www.bac.org.uk A centre for experimental performance, BAC likes to emphasize the merits of collaboration and interdisci- plinary productions. With several studio spaces, a main theatre and a café-bar that’s an occasional venue for poetry events, BAC ensures that there’s never a dull moment in leafy southwest London.

Rivoli Ballroom a swirling time warp 350 Rd, SE4 • 020 8692 5130 £ (from Blackfriars) This wonderful Edwardian dance hall has an arched ceiling, chandeliers and old-fashioned side-room bars. It has hosted the faux sophistication of Club Montepulciano (nights of crooning cabaret acts and light gambling), as well as salsa evenings, tea dancing, ballroom dancing, jive nights and trad jazz.

Tickets for Sporting Events London has two major cricket grounds: and If you want to see the big football clubs, such as Lord’s (see p107). Getting tickets for international Arsenal and Chelsea, try official club websites first, Tests usually requires booking a month in advance then agencies such as www.footballtickets.eu.com or handing over vast sums (£200 or more) to an or www.frontrowpromotions.com. Individuals post agency such as www.londonticketshop.co.uk. To tickets for sale on www.thegumtree.com. You can catch the tennis action at Wimbledon, you need to also use web agencies for international rugby queue in the morning or pay the exorbitant prices matches played at Twickenham (www.rfu.com). commanded by agencies for Centre Court matches.

The NFT hosts regular lectures and interviews with directors – call for details 131 pubs, bars & clubs

Pubs remain the city’s main drinking institutions, but swish cocktail lounges and funky DJ bars are stealing more and more of the limelight. Meanwhile, the dance scene maintains a blistering pace, its focus now moving from mega- clubs such as to more esoteric venues such as 93 Feet East and Herbal in Shoreditch. From creaking old taverns to style bars, London’s got it covered. TOP CHOICES – pubs, bars & clubs

DJ BARS GAY BARS & CLUBS A QUIET PINT

Cherry Jam Heaven Weekday afternoons are a good time 58 Porchester Road, W2 Under the Arches, Villiers Street, WC2 to visit some of the old pubs in The City, Check out Cherry Jam’s regular It’s been going a long time and such as the Lamb Tavern in Leadenhall Friday night event, Outernational, for there’s no reason to stop now – Market (Map 10 D3). “indigenous grooves” from Latin Heaven offers Saturday night’s America and Africa. (See p141) most full-on party. (See p136)

The Social Vauxhall Tavern 5 Little Portland Street, W1 372 Lane, SE11 A relaxed upstairs lounge bar A pub that’s been turned into contrasts with the basement, where a weekend cabaret venue for DJs keep upping the beats-per- high-camp Saturdays and minute count. (See p140) lazy Sundays. (See p153)

Loungelover Fridge The Lamb 1 Street, E1 1 Town Hall Parade, SW2 94 Lamb’s Conduit Street, WC1 Stretching expectations of what con- The regular gay night is Fusion on the Though often busy with local univer- stitutes a DJ bar, Loungelover em- 2nd and 4th Fridays of the month; sity and hospital staff in the evenings, braces opulence, with overblown Orange makes an occasional Sunday this welcoming pub is a relaxed decor and fancy cocktails. (See p149) appearance. (See p153) place for an afternoon pint. (See p141)

Vibe Bar Trade at Turnmills Pride of Spitalfields Old Truman Brewery, 91–5 Brick Lane, E1 63b Clerkenwell Road, EC1 3 Heneage Street, E1 In this former East End brewery, DJs Itinerant club night Trade is an irregu- The kind of traditional local pub seek out anything that might have a lar feature at Turnmills for late-night, where you can sit undisturbed at niche audience: from 80s fetish pop early-hours hedonism. (See p146) the bar, absorbing the surrounding to “acid fried beats”. (See p148) conversations and banter. (See p148)

The Crown 116 Cloudesley Road, N1 Tranquillity is the watchword at this Islington pub, set on a quiet road, with a relaxing interior, friendly staff, and great beers and food. (See p151)

Browse www.gaytoz.com and Greenwich Union www.aromadome.com for full list- 56 Royal Hill, SE10 ings and information about gay The Union’s back garden is a serene bars, venues and club nights. spot to enjoy one or more of the Meantime Brewery’s chocolate or fruit-based beers. (See p155)

134 Keep track of the latest on the London club scene at www.elondon.dk.com TOP CHOICES – pubs, bars & clubs

HISTORIC PUBS THE COCKTAIL HOUR TOP CLUBBING

Trafalgar Tavern Lobby Bar Herbal Park Row, SE10 1 Aldwych, WC2 10–14 Kingsland Road, E2 Charles Dickens, Dr Johnson and The capacious interior of the Lobby No fancy interior here – just a great many politicians of the 19th century Bar is sleekly furnished and very sound system and a cast of DJs who were lured by the famous whitebait upmarket. Drinks are expertly mixed search out the best in funky house, suppers at this inn. (See pp155 & 174) and served without fuss. (See p136) jungle and eastern breaks. (See p147)

The Lamb & Flag Blue Bar 93 Feet East 33 Rose Street, WC2 Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, SW1 150 Brick Lane, E1 One of the oldest public houses in Polished cocktails and fine malts This multi-space club and bar, with central London, The Lamb was a are served at this cool and elegant a courtyard for summer evenings, is venue for bare-knuckle boxing in the Wedgwood-blue bar. (See p142) the place to seek out new develop- 17th century. (See p137) ments in musical styles. (See p148)

Black Friar Fabric 174 Queen Victoria Street, EC4 77a Charterhouse Street, EC1 The name and site recall a One of London’s biggest clubs, Fabric Dominican monastery, but pushes its musical direction into all the interior is more of an Art dance music territories, from hip-hop Nouveau curiosity. (See p144) to elecro-beats to nu jazz. (See p145)

French House Trailer H For an accessible weekly round-up of 49 Dean Street, W1 177 Portobello Road, W11 clubbing in London, check out DJ Lottie’s The French connection was estab- Strong, fruity cocktails are the hall- previews in the Metro Life supplement of lished in World War II, when the bar mark of Trailer H, more a place for The Standard newspaper on Thursdays. served as an “office” for De Gaulle’s fun and high times than for reserve government in exile. (See p139) and sophistication. (See p143)

The best website for information Notting Hill Arts Club and an honest assessment of London 21 Notting Hill Gate pubs is www.fancyapint.com. A club for the indie/dance cross- over. Come for arty bands, DJ nights and the punk reverie of Death Disco. (See p144)

Most pubs close at 11pm (10:30pm on Sundays) 135 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Lobby Bar sophisticated cocktails 9 H3 1 Aldwych, WC2 • 020 7300 1000 www.onealdwych.com Open 8am–11:30pm (8am–11pm Sun) Located within the high-ceilinged lobby of a contem- porary luxury hotel is this ultra-stylish cocktail bar. Sofas and high-backed chairs are arranged around an oversized wooden boatman. Uniformed staff mix magnificent Martinis, Bellinis and Collins, and deliver superior satay and sushi to a well-heeled clientele.

Heaven gay nirvana 9 G4 Under the Arches, Villiers Street, WC2 • 020 7930 2020 www.heaven-london.com Open from 10pm Mon, Wed & Sat Set deep in the vaults of a railway bridge, Heaven is a gay clubbing institution. The regular slots are a dress-up-and-play Popcorn night on Mondays; Fruit Machine on Wednesdays (house, R&B and “pure pop”); and the full-on Saturday party night. Men and women, gays and straights – all are welcome.

Gordon’s Wine Bar atmospheric cellar 9 G4 47 Villiers Street, WC2 • 020 7930 1408 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun) Tatty, candlelit and clandestinely romantic, Gordon’s is an old favourite with Londoners. You’ll rarely find a free table in this dusty former wine cellar between Charing Cross and Embankment stations, but the ambience makes up for the lack of comfort. With all the vintage publicity posters, smoky alcoves and rickety furniture, it feels like a relic from the 1940s. A small bar dispenses an excellent range of reasonably priced wines, plus port, Madeira and a few sherries (there are no beers or spirits). Most customers part with £10 for a bottle of acceptable house red, but there’s enough choice higher up the price scale to attract the connoisseur. A separate food counter offers a selection of cheeses and salads. The basement gives access to a row of terrace tables along Watergate Walk, a spot that’s always busy on summer evenings.

136 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

The American Bar Art Deco relic 9 G4 , Strand, WC2 • 020 7836 4343 www.the-savoy.co.uk Open 2pm–1:30am Mon–Sat A pioneering cocktail bar from the early 20th century. Authentic Art Deco details and the bar’s classy location on the first floor of the Savoy Hotel have helped to attract decades of celebrity custom. It first gained global renown during American Prohibition, when wealthy folk from across the Atlantic demanded a higher standard of drink than was common in London at the time. Britain’s first Martini was mixed here, and an entire Savoy cocktail book was compiled in 1930. Its most successful era was after World War II, when head bartender Peter Dorelli would concoct cocktail masterpieces. Ernest Hemingway and Ira Gershwin were among the rich and famous patrons. Today’s drinks list is extensive, if within traditional limitations, and pricey – all cocktails are £9 or more. There’s also a selection of malt whiskies. Smart dress (including jacket and tie) is required.

Atlantic Bar & Grill cocktail bar 9 E4 20 Glasshouse Street, W1 • 020 7734 4888 www.atlanticbarandgrill.com Open noon–3am Mon–Sat. DJs at weekends

All mirrors and pillars, the Atlantic occupies the Art Deco ballroom of the former Regent Palace Hotel. Mixing master Dick Bradsell created the splendid cocktail list; he is honoured with a smaller bar in his name next door.

Lamb & Flag historic public house 9 G3 33 Rose Street, WC2 • 020 7497 9504 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun) In the 17th century, bare-knuckle fights were staged in the backroom of this Covent Garden old-timer – hence the pub’s former name, the Bucket of Blood. Its old beams and panelling, creaky and quirky signs attract quite a few tourists, but locals are also drawn by the selection of quality cask ales.

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Bar Rumba basement DJ bar 9 F3 36 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1 • 020 7287 2715 www.barrumba.co.uk Open 5pm–3:30am Mon–Fri, 7pm–6am Sat, 8pm–1am Sun. Adm fee after 11pm

A well-established late-opening fixture of Soho nightlife, this is not a glamorous place, but the musical pedigree is impressive. Many of the world’s top DJs have spun here for a cosmopolitan crowd. Drinks are reasonably priced.

The Endurance Soho pub 9 E3 90 Berwick Street, W1 • 020 7437 2944 Open noon–11pm daily Sandwiched between second-hand record shops by Berwick Street Market, the Endurance has a fine range of beers and wines, and superb food at lunchtimes. The mixed, music-oriented clientele creates a lively ambience around a simple, one-bar interior. Classic punk and indie are on the jukebox.

Madame Jo-Jos Soho cabaret club 9 E3 8–10 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7734 3040 www.madamejojos.com Open Tue–Sat evenings This plush old theatre has been used as a location in various films, including Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut (the scene where Tom Cruise meets the pianist and tries to elicit the code word for an orgy). Club nights include a regular Friday slot for Keb Darge’s Legendary Deep Funk, in which you’ll encounter some rare 45s and, usually, some acrobatic jazz- and break- dancers shaking to the beats. On Saturday, the Groove Sanctuary offers nu jazz, Latin and deep house. Madame Jo-Jos is best known for drag cabaret, and on Saturday evenings the Kitsch Cabaret takes place from 7 to 10pm. The excellent Kitty Cartier indulges in sharp-tongued repartee with the audience, then carouses them with show tunes and hits from the 1960s on. It’s a big party, with raucous hen night groups, jocular banter and the odd flash of old Soho flesh from hired strippers.

138 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

French House literary, gallic pub 9 F3 49 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7437 2799 Open noon–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun) This one-room cabin has a legendary past. Owned by the Belgian Berlemont family before World War I, The York Minster, as it was then known, enjoyed three golden eras. First came the cabaret days, when the great musical stars of Parisian chanson relaxed here between shows. Then the French Resistance used it as a London for its clandestine operations. (De Gaulle and his Free French schemed in a room above the bar.) It became known as the French House at this time. In the 1950s, writers Dylan Thomas and Brendan Behan were among the celebrated regulars. The Berlemonts and the bohemians have gone, but a hangover from those boozy, literary days remains. Beer is not served in pints, but in glasses. Wine, cider from Brittany, pastis and champagne are all popular; classic French labels are also sold by the half-bottle. A framed photo of De Gaulle still has pride of place.

The Player sexy basement bar 9 E3 8 Broadwick Street, W1 • 020 7494 9125 www.theplyr.com Open 5:30pm–midnight (to 1am Fri & Sat). Adm fee after 9pm Thu, Fri & Sat

This small bar is now part of the excellent Match chain, renowned for its cocktail expertise. You can expect high-volume music, slick service (many punters tip the waiters) and professional Martinis. Pre-booking a table is usually necessary.

Jerusalem cheap eats & quality lagers 9 E2 33–34 Rathbone Place, W1 • 020 7255 1120 www.thebreakfastgroup.co.uk Open all day from noon Mon–Fri (to 1am Thu, Fri), 7pm–1am Sat. Adm fee after 9pm, 10pm Fri & Sat

At lunchtime the long wooden tables of this basement bar/restaurant heave with media folk from Soho. By night, it vibrates with a thriving club scene; in between, a trendy, post-work crowd dives into pitchers of beer.

Never ask for a “beer” – it’s lager or bitter, preferably ordered by name 139 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Market Place Continental terrace scene 9 E2 11 Market Place, W1 • 020 7079 2020 Open 11am–11pm (to 1am Thu–Sat) The Market Place prides itself on a roster of great DJs. It’s part of the highly regarded Cantaloupe group (see p47), which ensures a creative array of food and cocktails, and unusual international beers. Having to queue for entry is a drawback. (See how many asymmetrical haircuts you can spot while waiting.)

Mash bar-diner with long opening hours 8 D2 19–21 Great Portland Street, W1 • 020 7637 5555 Open 10am–2am Mon–Fri; 11am–2am Sat Tongue-in-cheek retro chic defines the look. The bar’s back wall exposes huge vats of the Mash range of house beers (draught pilsner, wheat, fruit or stout varieties). There are cocktails on offer, too, and sophisticated snacks, because the kitchen also caters for a high-standard restaurant upstairs.

Zeta Bar swish hotel lounge bar 8 C5 Mayfair Hilton Hotel, 35 Hertford Street, W1 • 020 7208 4067 www.zeta-bar.com Open from 5pm Mon–Sat (to 1am Mon & Tue, to 3am Wed–Sat), 8pm–1am Sun. Adm after 11pm

Foxy décor, innovative cocktails and clubby music at conversational volume help make the Hilton’s bar a destination in its own right. Better still, bar prices, for Mayfair, are far from outrageous. The polished clientele can enjoy oysters and Thai fish cakes too.

The Social diner by day, club bar by night 8 D2 5 Little Portland Street, W1 • 020 7636 4992 www.thesocial.com Open noon–midnight Mon–Fri, 1pm–midnight Sat

Daytime sees this street-level cabin café serve honest fodder (burgers, pies etc), as well as beer, hot drinks and the occasional cocktail. After dark, the area down- stairs becomes a DJ bar of renown. Live acts have included Primal Scream and Badly Drawn Boy.

140 Find your way through the world of English beers with www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Cherry Jam DJ bar 7 F2 58 Porchester Road, W2 • 020 7727 9950 www.cherryjam.net Open 6pm–2am Mon–Sat; 4pm–midnight Sun. Adm after 8pm

This is co-owned by of fame. In the early evening the place is fairly quiet and acts as a modest hangout for local hipsters. Bands or record decks start playing after about 9pm. Drinks include bottled beers, cocktails and coffee.

Lamb characterful old pub 9 H1 94 Lamb’s Conduit Street, WC1 • 020 7405 0713 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat; noon–4pm, 7–10:30pm Sun A curio between Clerkenwell and Bloomsbury, the Lamb is approaching its 300th anniversary, though what is preserved is a masterpiece from the Victorian era. Details include framed caricatures, etched glass and delicate screens giving customers privacy. The antique Polyphone music box is still in working order.

The End steely cool club 9 G2 18 West Central St, WC1 • 020 7419 9199 www.endclub.com Open from 10pm; to 3am Mon & Wed; to 4am Thu; to 6am Fri & Sat

Down in the vaults of a former post office, is stylish in a minimalist way, with a kicking main room and a slightly more laid-back lounge, where Rob Mello and guests provide a mesmerizing concoction of electronic funk and house. Great sound system.

Nag’s Head London’s most eccentric pub 14 B1 53 Kinnerton Street, SW1 • 020 7235 1135 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun) The intimate layout and interior oddities of this neigh- bourhood pub, set in a cobbled cul-de-sac, hark back to the early 1800s, when the place provided lodgings for stablehands. An excellent choice of traditional ales, fine food, a jazzy soundtrack and civilized atmos- phere help ensure a solid core of amiable regulars.

Many pubs do not serve food in the afternoons, after 2pm or 3pm 141 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Blue Bar hotel bar of the highest standard 14 B1 Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, SW1 • 020 7235 6000 Open 4pm–1am Mon–Sat The Blue Bar at Hotel is a triumph of detail. Touches of Rococo and Art Deco blend into an eye-pleasing backdrop of stucco and Wedgwood blue in an interior of restrained style. An equally polished bar staff quietly dispenses bowls of warmed nuts and large, spicy olives as guests peruse an extensive list of cocktails, champagnes, Highland and Island malt whiskies and fine wines. Cocktails such as a classic Martini or champagne-based drinks are perfect in mix and presentation. American customers often opt for a classic malt and a cigar. (The cigars are displayed in a modest cabinet by the bar lined with champagne buckets.) The snack menu offers modern tapas dishes, which are as delicately presented as everything else here. On leaving, customers receive the same impeccably discreet nod that greeted them on the way in.

Townhouse easy-going style bar 14 A1 31 Beauchamp Place, SW3 • 020 7589 5080 www.lab-townhouse.com Open 4pm–midnight Mon–Fri, noon–midnight Sat, 4–11:30pm Sun

This chic bar, set in a three-storey Georgian townhouse, serves cocktails created by famed mixologist Douglas Ankrah. There are more than 100 to consider, making for a tricky choice if your attention is further distracted by the classic movies projected silently on to a wall.

Apartment 195 upmarket lounge bar 14 A4 195 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5195 www.apartment195.co.uk Open from 4pm Mon–Sun This exclusive style bar has created a much-needed buzz down the King’s Road. Members and stylish guests mingle in the cocktail lounge, salon and TV room, sipping professionally mixed classic cocktails (moderately priced), fine wines and classy beers. Phone to reserve a table on Fridays and Saturdays.

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Lonsdale concept bar of renown 6 D3 44–8 Lonsdale Road, W11 • 020 7727 4080 www.thelonsdale.co.uk Open 6pm–midnight daily (to 11:30pm Sun)

A recipient of many Best Bar awards, the Lonsdale scores top marks for its décor, superior drinks and tapas-style snacks. Beyond the starchy doormen, the atmosphere is loungy and laidback – even though you know that the “just got out of bed” look sported by all present took hours to create. The interior, designed by leading bar architects Fusion, features futuristic, aged-bronze hemispheres on the walls, and steel bobbles in the smaller upstairs bar. The famous cocktail list has been designed by London mixologists Dick Bradsell and Henry Besant. Martinis (choose from elderflower, rose petal, marma- lade and other variants) are joined by fresh Raspberry Mules, Earl Grey Fizzes (delicate tea, mixed with bisongrass vodka and prosecco), Diane Von Furstenbergs (vodka, fruit, vanilla) and 60 others.

Trailer H modest basement bar 6 C2 177 Portobello Road, W11 • 020 7727 2700 Open 5pm–late Tue–Fri, 6pm–late Sat The H stands for “happiness”; indeed, the drinks list here is as good as it gets. House specials are lurid- coloured tiki cocktails, which look as innocuous as fruit smoothies but, boy, do they kick. Zombies are limited to two per person. It’s the ideal venue for an apéritif before going to the Electric Cinema (see p123).

Golborne Grove pub/bar/restaurant 6 C1 36 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8960 6260 www.groverestaurants.co.uk Open 11am–midnight daily Golborne Road is London’s “Little Casablanca”, busy with Moroccan eateries and shops. The landscape is less colourful at its western end, but relief is offered by this popular establishment, which offers excellent food (international) from a daily changing menu, a fine wine list and all the usual beers and spirits.

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Notting Hill Arts Club acoustic pioneers 7 E4 21 Notting Hill Gate, W11 • 020 7460 4459 www.nottinghillartsclub.com Open 6pm–1am Mon–Wed, 6pm–2am Thu & Fri, 4pm–2am Sat, 4pm–1am Sun

NHAC is always searching for new and exciting music and art, and programmes a diverse range of club nights, film screenings and live bands. Wednesdays are for nostalgics, though, as Death Disco crashes through some punk and indie rock.

Windsor Castle al fresco pints 7 E5 114 Campden Hill Road, W8 • 020 7243 9551 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun This characterful and friendly old pub is a prime summer destination, thanks to its leafy beer garden at the back. Fish and chips and traditional pub grub always seem to taste that much better in the open air. At less clement times of the year, drinkers cosy up in a warren of oak-panelled rooms.

Black Friar extraordinary interior 10 B3 174 Queen Victoria Street, EC4 • 020 7236 5474 Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Fri; noon–10:30pm Sat An unusual and much-loved landmark, was built in Victorian style on the site of a former Dominican monastery. An extravagant early-20th- century Art Nouveau makeover left an interior with marble surfaces, mirrored alcoves and decorative monks. Grab a seat before the after-work crowd arrives.

Notorious Pubs & Literary Haunts point in the 1980s for authors such as Ian McEwan. In the first half of the 20th century, the On the same street is the Coach & Horses, with the was a shrine of London bohemia, frequented at one self-proclaimed “rudest landlord in Soho”. Hard- time or another by writers Dylan Thomas and George drinking journalist Jeffrey Bernard was a regular Orwell, magician Aleister Crowley and chief hangman here. The nearby French House (see p139) has also Albert Pierrepoint. South of Oxford Street is the been favoured by literary hellraisers and troubled PillarsofHercules, which is found in Dickens’ A Tale souls, including poet and novelist Sylvia Plath. of Two Cities (1859) and was a favourite meeting For individual pub details, see p228.

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Vertigo London’s highest bar 10 D2 Level 42, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, EC2 • 020 7877 7842 www.vertigo42.co.uk Open by reservation only Book in advance and dress smartly, and join City executives at the top of the former NatWest Tower for an unparalleled view of the capital. A choice of 30 brands of champagne, 10 fine wines and a range of classy, seafood-based dishes helps to heighten the experience even further.

Café Kick homage to the beautiful game 4 A5 43 Exmouth Market, EC1 • 020 7837 8077 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, 1–11pm Sun A continental-style café-bar where the main draw is classic Rene Pierre table football. Groups of young twentysomethings crowd the tables, animatedly flicking wrists and voicing their triumphs. European football memorabilia, bottled beers, wines and snacks from southern Europe add to the cosmopolitan mix.

Fabric hedonistic clubbing at its finest 10 B1 77a Charterhouse St, EC1• 020 7336 8898 www.fabriclondon.com Open 9.30pm–5am Fri, 10pm–7am Sat; check website for details

With three great rooms and sound systems that make your legs shake, Fabric is quite possibly the best club in London – at least, that’s how it feels when you’re in it. Club nights aren’t all about big name DJs, but it’s hard not to be impressed by a line-up of turntablists and musicians which might include James Lavelle, Craig Richards, DJ Spinbad, Fila Brazillia or Roots Manuva. When he’s not over at Herbal (see p147), Goldie sometimes makes an appearance with his Metalheadz crew for an onslaught of junglist drum ’n’ bass. Fabric’s musical focus is house and techno on Saturdays and breakbeat, hip-hop and drum ’n’ bass for Friday’s FabricLive session, but you’ll also hear electro and nu jazz. FabricLive has also been instrumental in bringing to London’s attention live acts such as ’s Röyksopp.

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Fluid the perfect start to an all-nighter 10 B1 40 Charterhouse Street, EC1 • 020 7253 3444 www.fluidbar.com Open noon–midnight Mon–Wed, noon–2am Thu & Fri, 7pm–2am Sat. Adm Fri & Sat

Fluid is a delightfully kitsch DJ bar with Japanese details – screen prints, Asahi beer, rice-wine cocktails, even a photo-sticker booth. With its retro video games and superb soundtrack (leftfield beats, jazz dub, chunky house), it’s the ideal pre-club bar.

Jerusalem Tavern old English pub 10 B1 55 Britton Street, EC1 • 020 7490 4281 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Fri A simple, small wooden coffee house dating from the early 18th century is now the flagship outlet for North Suffolk’s excellent St Peter’s Brewery. Unusual fruit beers and classic ales are served, while fine pub lunches are provided for habitués of Clerkenwell looking for a little respite from the area’s DJ bars.

Turnmills dance club 10 B1 63b Clerkenwell Rd, EC1 • 020 7250 3409 www.turnmills.co.uk Open 6:30pm–midnight Tue, 10pm–4am Thu, 10:30pm–7:30am Fri, 10pm–6am Sat

An industrial-gothic interior with low ceilings gives Turnmills a deep, dark and sweaty feel once the up- for-it crowd gets into the groove. The club’s rooms include two main dance floors and some chill-out areas; the music tips towards house and clubby R&B.

Cargo live music & all-day drinking 5 E5 83 Rivington St, EC2 • 020 7739 3440 www.cargo-london.com Open 6pm–1am Mon, noon–1am Tue–Thu, noon–3am Fri, 6pm–3am Sat, 1pm–midnight Sun

Under the railway arches of Shoreditch, Cargo is a daytime bar-café, a live music venue and a dance club all in one. International sounds get an airing at Champions of Sound (Fridays), and Cargo’s occasional mini festivals also promote diverse, global music.

146 To find out how to get home or to your hotel after-hours, use www.elondon.dk.com City & East

Herbal mixed bag of music 5 E4 10–14 Kingsland Rd, Shoreditch, E2 • 020 7613 4462 www.herbaluk.com Open 9pm–2am Mon, Wed & Thu (to 3am Fri & Sat, to 2am Sun), 8pm–1am Tue

This is a club that’s got all its priorities right: an old warehouse building that’s left largely untouched; comfy bar with concrete floors and windows overlooking the street; a superior sound system; and, best of all, a menu of musical flavours that pulls the initiated back again and again. One of the best (irregular) nights is Eastern Drum and Breaks: in the main dance area you can lose yourself in some intense London-style tabla breaks, while upstairs in the bar the mood is mellower, for more Anglo-Asian experiments in sound. Other great nights include the monthly Hospitality, for a less- abrasive form of drum ’n’ bass, and Starf*cker for funky house and a light smattering of 1980s porn music. Herbal’s guest DJs have included Grooverider, Artful Dodger, Gilles Peterson, Mr Thing and Goldie.

Hoxton Square Bar 5 E5 & Kitchen groundbreaking style bar 2–4 Hoxton Square, N1 • 020 7613 0709 Open 10am–midnight Mon–Thu (to 2am Fri & Sat, to 12:30am Sun) Formerly the Lux Bar (when it kick-started London’s style-bar revolution), HSB&K now has even more bare concrete space and battered old sofas to lounge on. Decent, simple bar food and good European lagers are served. Grab a window seat before the evening rush.

Mother/333 DJ bar and club 5 E5 333 Old Street, EC1 • 020 7739 5949 www.333mother.com Open 8pm to 3 or 4am nightly The first-floor Mother bar opens at 8pm nightly; closing time depends on what’s on. Club 333 downstairs joins up with Mother on weekend nights for sweaty fun and a real mix of music. You’ll find a friendly crowd, while top-notch DJs such as Andrew Weatherall and Smilex keep the mood upbeat.

DJ bars and clubs usually charge admission after 9 or 10pm, and stay open into the early hours 147 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Vibe Bar bohemian DJ bar 11 F1 Old Truman Brewery, 91–95 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7377 2899 www.vibe-bar.co.uk Open 11am–11:30pm Mon–Thu & Sun, 11am–1am Fri–Sat. Adm fee after 8pm Fri & Sat

Spread around various poky spaces in a former brew- ery, this arty venue doubles up as a successful DJ bar and live music outlet, and has helped to regenerate the cultural life of the Brick Lane area (see p160). The main room may look makeshift – haphazard furniture, murals, an old piano and a DJ shack – but the Vibe is a well-run, multidisciplined organization attracting customers from all income brackets. A menu of curries, kebabs and salads helps wash down standard beers and strong cocktails. One side room is sometimes given over to obscure board games from the Indian Subcontinent; there’s Internet access, too. The best space is a cobbled courtyard (covered and heated in winter), which lends an al fresco, continental air to this otherwise truly cross- cultural London experience.

Pride of Spitalfields East End boozer 11 F1 3 Heneage Street, E1 • 020 7247 8933 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun A solid, honest-to-goodness pub, located on a side road off Brick Lane. Many come here for a swift drink before visiting a nearby curry house. Traditional ales include Crouch Vale Best, Fuller’s ESB and , plus obscure guest ales. Authentic jellied eels come free on Sunday lunchtimes.

93 Feet East bar & evening club 11 F1 150 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7247 3293 www.93feeteast.co.uk Open 5–11pm Mon–Thu, 5pm–1am Fri, noon–1am Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

You know this place must be a bit special, because it manages to draw in a regular crowd despite restricted opening hours. Success is due to a searching music policy, mixing live acts, visuals and great DJs, plus cool bar areas and a courtyard too.

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Golden Hart artists’ haunt 11 F1 110 Commercial Street, E1 • 020 7247 2158 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun Popularized by the 1990s crop of young British artists, this smoky Victorian institution of dark-wood panel- ling and traditional ales is also a favourite of workers from Shoreditch market. This gives the pub the feel of a genuine “local”. In summer, there is outside seating. Be warned: the bar staff are notoriously abrupt.

Loungelover hedonistic bar 5 F5 1 Whitby Street, E1 • 020 7012 1234 Open 6pm–midnight Mon–Thu, 6pm–1am Fri, 7pm–1am Sat The latest innovative designer bar, set beside Les Trois Garçons (see p47), is anything but miminalist. A camp interior of chandeliers and bizarre bric-a-brac is complemented by Lover-themed cocktails and champagne frosts, delivered by a studiously trendy bar staff. Book a table in advance at weekends.

Prospect of Whitby ancient inn on the Thames 57 Wapping Wall, E1 • 020 7481 1095 • 1 Wapping Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun London’s oldest riverside pub, still with its flagstone floor and pewter-covered bar counter, was a smugglers’ inn in the 16th century, and later served liquid refreshment to Samuel Pepys and Charles Dickens. Today, it is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, lured by real ales and views from the terrace.

The Grapes another historic riverside boozer 76 Narrow Street, E14 • 020 7987 4396 • Limehouse DLR Open noon–3 & 5:30–11 Mon–Fri, noon–11 Sat, noon–10:30 Sun As wonky and haphazard as when Charles Dickens described it in Our Mutual Friend (1864), this creaking wooden pub still boasts its riverside platform terrace. Today, it also has a first-class fish restaurant upstairs, and excellent seafood-oriented bar snacks. Real ales are on offer, too.

The best London beers are Fuller’s (who brew London Pride and ESB) and Young’s (Special) 149 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Medicine Bar very popular DJ bar 4 B2 181 Upper Street, N1 • 020 7704 9536 Also at 89 Great Eastern Street, EC2 www.medicinebar.net Open 5pm–midnight Mon–Thu, 5pm–2am Fri, noon–2am Sat, noon–midnight Sun. Adm after 9pm Fri & Sat; DJs Thu–Sun

This enormously successful clubby bar on Islington’s main street has now spawned a branch in hipper Shoreditch, but the original venue cannot be beaten. The formula is quite simple: take an ornate bar of the traditional pub variety; around it, create a laid-back interior of subtle lighting, tatty sofas and greenery; make sure you keep dispensing spot-on cocktails and standard beers at very reasonable prices; and, finally, hire a DJ to mix up a storm. The sounds encompass jazz funk, soul, hip-hop, jazzy drum ’n’ bass and house. There’s a modest chill-out room, and on summer evenings the adjoining passage is filled with tables. The atmosphere is sexy and slightly bohemian; the clientele second-generation clubbers, who’ve sampled all kinds of nightlife and feel at home with something less full-on than a proper club night. Admirably unpretentious, the Medicine Bar’s only snag is its very popularity and infectious spirit. Two hundred people jigging around the narrow main bar on a busy night leaves little room for manoeuvre. Those people swanning to the head of the queue and enjoying discounts have gone to the trouble of obtaining a membership card – check the venue’s funky website for details of this and forthcoming DJs.

Embassy Bar very cool bar 4 B2 119 Essex Road, N1 • 020 7226 7901 www.embassybar.com Open 5pm–midnight daily (to 2am Fri & Sat)

While nearby Upper Street is big with party crowds, this bar draws the discerning. Behind an all-black exterior is a small bar room with a central, semi-circular counter and an outer ring of black leather furniture for lounging. Downstairs is the dance floor.

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The Crown friendly gastropub 4 A3 116 Cloudesley Road, N1 • 020 7837 7107 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun Fuller’s Brewery made a wise choice when they decided to give this standard local a serious upgrade in the late 1990s. Set in a tranquil street surrounded by grand townhouses, The Crown’s catchment area was undergoing a serious demographic shift. Soon the newly rusticated interior was filled with discerning high-income professional couples, ably catered to by an open kitchen au fait with chargrilled meats and continental sauces. The quality of wine on offer has improved beyond recognition, and cocktails, too, are of a standard (and a price) expected in the West End. The character of the original pub has been kept, with the etched-glass panels and a beautifully carved oak bar. The menu, chalked up on a board, invariably features a couple of safe standards, not least a superb Sunday roast. A patio comes into good use in summer, and children are welcome all year round.

Island Queen elegant old pub 4 B3 87 Noel Road, N1 • 020 7704 7631 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun A haunt of actors and canal-side residents, is a study in decorum and good taste. Ships’ figureheads set against dark wood and etched glass are attractive features of this venerable establish- ment. It is also appreciated for its fine ales (such as London Pride) and the no smoking section in the snug.

Pineapple a locals’ local 51 Leverton Street, NW5 • 020 7284 4631 • 1 Kentish Town Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, 11am–10:30pm Sun The Pineapple is a gem of a pub, hidden away in the backstreets of Kentish Town. A cool, arty crowd served by cool, arty barstaff in cool, arty surround- ings are the key elements. It also has real ales (including the sought-after Marston’s Pedigree), good music and a conservatory.

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Lock Tavern DJ-run Brit pub 2 D2 35 Chalk Farm Road, NW1 • 020 7482 7163 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun This landmark venue in Camden (not by the Lock, iron- ically) offers textbook lessons in how to run a modern, urban public house. Once a grimy Victorian city pub, it has been renovated by a music-minded team keen to appeal to discerning all-comers. The Lock retains the comforts of a local pub – leather furniture in the main downstairs bar, armchairs around the fireside in the upstairs one – and runs an excellent kitchen, providing what is best described as British tapas, reasonably priced and catering to vegetarians. Fine ales are poured alongside standard lagers, and sunk with abandon at weekends. The beer garden (covered and heated in winter) and roof terrace overlooking Camden Market buzz with savvy young urbanites, happy to waste entire Sundays here. That’s when DJs play all day, with international “names” doing a turn once in a while.

Mac Bar hip DJ hangout 3 E2 102 Camden Road, NW1 • 020 7485 4530 www.macbar.co.uk Open noon–11 Mon–Sat, noon–10:30 Sun A brash cocktail-and-DJ bar of high repute, the Mac Bar represents a bright beacon of change in Camden’s somewhat stilted pub life. Here, a sharp crowd gathers around the maroon furniture, enjoying superbly mixed cocktails and equally well mixed musical accompani- ments (DJs Fridays and Saturdays, jazz Wednesdays).

Anchor Bankside historic riverside pub 10 C4 34 Park Street, SE1 • 020 7407 1577 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun Its heavy beams and bare stonework bore witness to such famous figures as Dr Samuel Johnson in the 18th century. Today, the Anchor’s proximity to the Globe and Tate Modern makes it popular with visitors to London. The riverside terrace is a draw in summer, but the cosy interior is at its best in winter.

152 Check out how to mix the coolest cocktails with www.elondon.dk.com North & South

Vauxhall Tavern high camp fun & laughs 15 H4 372 Kennington Lane, SE11 • 020 7737 4043 Open 9pm–2am Sat, noon–midnight Sun Saturday is the big night here, when Duckie – a gay London institution – features cabaret, punk, post-punk and electro spun on the decks by London Readers Wifes (sic). Between the main acts, hostess Amy Lamé (right) orchestrates a quiz or two. Sundays are for lounging with Slags Chillout DJ set.

Ministry of Sound branded 103 Gaunt Street, SE1 • 0870 0600010 • 1 Elephant & Castle www.ministryofsound.com Open 10:30pm–5am Fri, 11pm–7am Sat; check website for other club nights

Many die-hard clubbers now shun the Ministry (in part for its megalomaniacal branding), but you’d be a fool to ignore one of its big nights, when the likes of Little Louie Vega from Masters At Work or London’s very own Norman Jay take to the decks – bliss.

Fridge/Fridge Bar Brixton institutions 1 Town Hall Parade, SW2 • 020 7326 5100 • 1 Brixton www.fridge.co.uk Fridge open 10pm–6am Fri & Sat; Fridge Bar open 11am–midnight daily (to 3am Fri & Sat)

Saturday’s Love Muscle is the regular, pumped-up gay night. On every other Friday, Fusion keeps things fast and sweaty for clubbers of all persuasions until dawn. Bar has its own club – try the occa- sional ’Til Shiloh night, for dub, and roots and culture.

Beer Gardens residents drink under open skies at the countryfied Few city-centre pubs have beer gardens, but there Albion; while over in Camden, the defiantly urban are plenty further afield where Londoners revel in a Lock Tavern (see opposite) boasts a roof terrace. combination of beer and sun at the first warming of Pick of the South London pubs for alfresco boozing the weather. One of the largest gardens belongs to is the Windmill, which has Clapham Common as its the Freemason’s Arms just off Hampstead Heath, garden. The Royal Inn on the Park is a fine East and there’s a smaller, prettier garden attached to London pub on the edge of Victoria Park. For the nearby historic . Islington individual pub details, see p228.

Pubs with attractive gardens or terraces get packed on summer weekends – get there early 153 Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Bug Bar & Lounge DJs in the crypt The Crypt, Brixton Hill, SW2 • 020 7738 3366 • 1 Brixton www.bugbrixton.co.uk Open 8pm–1am Thu, 8pm–3am Fri & Sat, 8pm–2am Sun. Adm Thu–Sun after 9pm

This destination DJ bar and club, located in a spacious stone crypt beneath Brixton’s St Matthew’s Church, has undergone a recent upgrade after seven years of gritty, Gothic hedonism. The old décor, redolent of a student party, has gone, and in its place more stylish, leather furniture has been spread over the basement space. The lighting, too, is more in tune with a lounge interior than low-key dive, and the Bug has even allowed itself the new epithet “& Lounge”. The music is still excellent (from breakbeats on Saturdays to Sunday’s ‘Baptizm’ funk and soul night), and the dance floor in the Bug’s club room has lost none of its raw energy. Reasonably priced cocktails and a loyal core of regulars – plus a surprising number happy to travel across the river for a night here – ensure that the Bug is in no danger of over-gentrification.

Dogstar DJ bar with attitude 389 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 • 020 7733 7515 • 1 Brixton www.thedogstar.com Open noon–2am Sun–Thu (to 4am Fri & Sat)

Dogstar is a large, loud dance bar, revered for having kick-started the Brixton nightlife revolution in the mid-1990s. A younger generation now meets under the overhead projectors, but the formula is pretty much the same: late, late nights and serious partying.

Riverside Pubs Hammersmith boasts a string of pubs linked by a The Founders Arms, a modern brick bunker near riverside walkway. Best of the bunch is The Dove, Tate Modern, is the most central Thames-side pub. which began life in the 18th century as a For more atmosphere and a riverside terrace, try and has Britain’s smallest bar. The nearby Blue , which dates from 1775. Further Anchor is where Gwyneth Paltrow engaged in silly east, other historic riverside pubs include the drinking games in Sliding Doors. Richmond has , The Grapes (both p149) and, perhaps the finest riverside pubs, notably the White in Greenwich, the (see opposite). Cross. For individual pub details, see pp228–9.

154 www.elondon.dk.com South

Bread & Roses family-oriented pub 68 Clapham Manor St,SW4 • 020 7498 1779 • 1 Clapham North Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun This pub is run by the Workers’ Beer Company, which lines up its own house ale alongside other quality varieties, and names its potent cocktails after famous revolutionaries. The pub food is wholesome, and children are unusually well catered for, with a day- time crèche and play area.

Prince of Wales a pub with character 38 Old Town, SW4 • 020 7622 3530 • 1 Clapham Common Open 5–11pm Mon–Fri, 1–11pm Sat, 1–10:30pm Sun The Prince of Wales is an eccentric pub, full of curios accumulated by the present landlord after a lifetime at sea. Superb ales feature strongly, although finding the space to enjoy them amid all the junk can be a problem. The pub attracts South London’s bohemian dreamers, and serenades them with alternative music.

Greenwich Union own-brew place 16 B3 56 Royal Hill, SE10 • 020 8692 6258 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10am–11pm Sat (to 10:30pm Sun) Interesting house beers are available at this establish- ment, run by the Meantime Brewing Company. They include the company’s Union brand, alongside raspberry and chocolate varieties and traditional Central European brews. There’s excellent food, regular live jazz, a front terrace and a back garden.

Trafalgar Tavern historic ale house 16 C1 Park Row, SE10 • 020 8858 2909 www.trafalgartavern.co.uk Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

This has been a Greenwich institution for 150 years or more, its walls lapped by the Thames, and its grand, high-ceilinged rooms dotted with maritime memora- bilia. Real ales and Czech lagers are a fixture in the three main bar areas.

Brixton and Clerkenwell rank alongside Soho as London’s best spots for nightlife 155 streetlife

Markets are the pulse of local neighbourhoods such as Notting Hill, Spitalfields and Borough. Elsewhere, it is the bars, shops, galleries and cafés that provide the spark – as in Hoxton, where locals spill out of the pubs and onto the pavements at the first glimmer of sunshine. Other areas, notably Brixton and Soho, come into their own after nightfall. Streetlife

Soho 24-hour party people 9 F3 and gay erotica (Prowler Soho); Randall & Aubin for The densely packed district between Oxford Street to seafood and champagne; and Lina Stores, one of the the north and Chinatown to the south is a hive of few remaining Italian delicatessens in Soho (along activity day and night. Old Compton Street, Soho’s with at No. 61 Old Compton Street). main thoroughfare, represents London at its most Walker’s Court leads through to Berwick Street, sexually relaxed – almost every bar and café along passing a concentration of sex shops and peep the road (from G-A-Y to Comptons) has a predomin- shows. Berwick Street retains a lively street market antly gay clientele. There is a wider, international and is renowned for its record shops. Vinyl Junkies appeal to adjoining streets, where you find the offers the latest in dood dance music and Sister Ray French House (see p139), the Gay Hussar (No. 2 Greek and Selectadisc offer a mixed bag of music styles, old St) and the non-stop, caffeine-fuelled Bar Italia (Frith and new. There is also a great selection of fabric Street; see also p19), in which Italian football plays on shops, selling everything from silk to PVC. the screen whenever possible. Rainy nights and Soho go hand in hand, but if you Wardour Street is busier, with some good food find yourself here on a bright summer’s day, pick up stops, such as Satsuma, Mezzo and Spiga, but the something sweet at Patisserie Valerie (see p26) and grittiest and most varied part of Soho lies between head for prim Soho Square or the spruced up St Anne’s Brewer and Broadwick streets. Brewer is home to Churchyard. Here you can laze the afternoon away, Madame Jo-Jos (see p138) and The Escape Bar (gay until the lure of sweaty bars and loud music drags dance acts); style books (Soho’s Original Book Shop) you back into the melee.

158 To find out more about London’s neighbourhoods, check out www.elondon.dk.com Centre & West

Portobello Road shops, stalls & cafés 6 D3 readily available at the Earl of Londsdale on the Antiques market open 7:30am–5:30pm Sat; corner of Westbourne Grove or the Fluid Juice Bar on general market & shops 9am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 1pm Thu) Elgin Crescent. Just beyond the Electric Cinema (see This is one of the most characterful streets in London. also p15) and its brasserie, Blenheim Crescent cuts A mile-long walk along its north-south axis takes you across Portobello. Situated here are two excellent from pastel-hued Notting Hill cottages and quaint bookshops, Blenheim Books and the Travel little antiques shops to a blankets-on-the-floor street Bookshop, which has a good selection on London. market in the shadows of the Westway flyover. The The general market (with a nice stall for olives and area was lowly in the 1950s, and bohemian in the breads) takes place below the flyover. Here, the 1960s and 1970s. Today it remains – despite the Market Bar is always good for a lager or cocktail. Café influence of well-heeled local celebrities and films Grove opposite has a first-floor terrace. such as Notting Hill – eclectic, vibrant and fun. North of the Westway is Portobello Green (see p83) The southern end of the road is at its busiest best and a rambling Saturday market that peters out as it on Saturdays, when the antiques market holds sway. reaches the Golborne Road. Here funky clothes shops The quaint shops have a preponderance of well-oiled (see p85) and antique furniture shops spill out onto cricket bats, ancient golf clubs, tanned leather foot- the pavements, and there are some good bars and balls and old curling stones destined for re-use as eateries: Bed for drinks from early evening, Galicia for doorstops. A clutter of Victoriana – enamel signs, tapas; Golborne Grove (see p143) as the requisite painted buckets and faded flags – can be trawled gastropub; Lisboa Patisserie (see p42); and George’s through at Alice’s (No. 86). Close by, refreshment is Portobello Fish Bar for takeaways.

www.portobelloroad.co.uk has information about Portobello’s antiques shops and stalls 159 Streetlife

Westbourne Park upmarket Notting Hill 6 D3 The joys of this characterful West London enclave are split between the leisurely shops of Westbourne Grove, and the eateries on Westbourne Park Road. The Grove is a place for boutique-browsing on sunny days. Its focal point, strangely, is a Piers Gough- designed turquoise-brick public toilet building, reminiscent of the Art Nouveau Métro entrances of Paris. A flower kiosk, Wild at Heart, is built into the structure. Nearby shops include Joseph (No. 236), Agnès B (No. 235), Camper (No. 214), Jigsaw (No. 192) and Anne Wiberg’s “trash couture” (No. 170). A 5-minute stroll up Chepstow Road – passing or otherwise the Prince Bonaparte – takes you to Westbourne Park Road. To your left are The Oak gastropub and Lucky 7, a groovy diner-type place for soups, sandwiches, hot dogs, beers and shakes. And to your right, the wonderful Cow and its friendly rival The Westbourne, both gastropubs of renown. For a quieter meal, there’s Rosa’s, a simple, almost rustic dining room at No. 69.

Brick Lane curry houses & style shops 11 F1 Once synonymous with fantastic cheap curry houses, Brick Lane in London’s East End has a more diverse character these days. The restaurants are still there – Preethi, Le Taj, Café Naz, Bengal Cuisine, Meraz Café on Hanbury Street, to name a few – though price rises and touting have tainted their image. North of the Truman’s Brewery there is now a cluster of fashion outlets, stylish furniture shops and hip cafés and bars. The most interesting clothes shops are in Dray Walk on the old brewery site – Junky, Public Beware and Gloria’s Super Deluxe. Nearby, 93 Feet East and the Vibe Bar (see p148) soak up the evening crowds. A daytime visit is best on Sundays, when the trashy morning market brings throngs of people to the streets here, but any evening is good for wandering between the neon-signed curry houses and maybe stopping in for a pint at the old-fashioned Pride of Spitalfields (see p148). For more about shopping in Brick Lane and nearby Cheshire Street, see p88.

160 www.elondon.dk.com West, City & East

Spitalfields Market fashion & furniture 11 F1 020 7247 8556 Open 10:30–4:30 Mon–Fri; 10–5 Sun Currently London’s most exciting market, Spitalfields – set in a historic building just east of the City – is jam-packed on Sundays with stalls selling everything from organic vegetables to retro furniture. Fashion has become its greatest strength, though – look out for the Vivienne Westwood-inspired Grunge Vogue and a young designer called Kim. Flower stalls, such as Chayapa Flowers, add to the fun, and permanent stalls such as Arkansas Café (barbecued steaks and roast poultry) provide tasty nourishment. Weekdays are much quieter, but the market contin- ues and on Thursdays trades almost exclusively in fashion. Lamb Street to the north and Brushfield Street to the south are home to interesting vintage furniture outlets, quality poster shops and traditional British food shop A Gold (see p87). The Market Coffee House is perfect for a moment of repose.

Columbia Road East End flower market 5 F4 From the break of dawn on Sunday mornings, this short stretch of narrow East London road rouses itself into a vibrant flower- and foliage-filled market. Stall traders shout about their bargain trays of bedding plants and wait for the late-rising urbanites to turn up for exotica in the form of banana plants and tree ferns. Snack stalls and cafés offer breakfasts, brunches and early lunches and, when that’s done, the Birdcage pub on the corner of Columbia Road and Cosset Road is on hand to slake mid-morning thirsts. If that doesn’t take your fancy, there’s Laxeiro tapas bar at the other end of the market, Stingray Global Café for oversize pizzas or the more secretive Nelson’s Head pub, tucked away on Horatio Street. Alongside the horticulture, Columbia Road’s shops offer a nice line in furniture (old, retro and new) as well as ceramics and funky light shades. By early afternoon, the crowds disperse, most carrying a pet-sized piece of the great natural world back to their city flats.

For information about all Brick Lane’s curry houses, see www.bricklanerestaurants.com 161 Streetlife

Hoxton bohemian Shoreditch 5 E5 Ktchn (35 Charlotte Rd) does excellent European/ It’s indisputably London’s coolest area for an artsy Middle Eastern salads to take-away. Many of the bars crowd – and Hoxton’s bubble is far from bursting. serve decent food (Cantaloupe, see p47, and the Designers, artists and other creative types saw the Great Eastern Dining Room, see p48), Hoxton Square potential in this down-at-heel district in the mid-90s, Bar and Kitchen, see p147, and again, Zigfrid). For a converting derelict buildings into studios and live-work little more formality, head for the Rivington Bar and lofts. A smattering of bars followed. Now the streets Grill (Rivington St) or Home on Leonard Street. On around Hoxton Square and Charlotte Road are lined Curtain Road and Shoreditch High Street, the bars with hip restaurants, clubs, design shops and galleries. have more of a boyish feel to them, with much Hoxton wakes up late, and the daytime streets can evidence of pool tables (Elbow Room and Pool, feel quite lazy, especially at weekends when people opposite each other on Curtain Road). Bar Kick on saunter between the galleries. Jay Jopling’s White Shoreditch High Street has table football. Juno, next Cube, situated on , is the biggest gallery; door, has a variety of nostalgic games for those who The Agency (ring the buzzer at 18 Charlotte Road) is grew up in the age of Space Invaders and Pac Man. one of the longest established. There’s also a great Round the corner on Kingsland Road is Dream Bags/ contemporary arts bookshop, ARTWORDS, at 65 Jaguar Shoes, a name left over from previous occu- Rivington Street. Arrive late in the afternoon, take up a pants. Befitting the bar’s bohemian New York style, seat at one of the bars and watch the throngs gather Leonard Cohen doesn’t so much play from the as the sky darkens. The Bricklayer’s Arms on Charlotte speakers as seep from the crumbling plasterwork. For Road is an old stalwart, while Zigfrid has Chesterfield the late-night, early-morning crowd, there are the sofas and large windows framing the square. clubs Herbal, Cargo and Mother/333 (see pp146–7).

162 For signposts to London’s best street markets, check out www.elondon.dk.com City & East, North & South

Camden Lock Camden Market’s best spot 2 D2 The roadway from Camden Tube to Chalk Farm Road Tube is awash with stalls dishing out T-shirts, cheap fashionwear and all manner of smoking parapher- nalia. The nicest part of Camden Market, though, is at its furthest reaches, in and around the railway arches of Stables Market. Here, you’ll find a good mix of retro-style clothes, furniture and curios. There’s also “goth” gear and techno clubwear – the latter in the clublike space of Cyberdog, where a bar serves guarana drinks and fruity “detox” concoctions. The music gets evermore manic, and the whiff of incense and cooking hangs everywhere. The snacks served by the market food stalls are just belly-fillers, though. If you want a more carefully prepared meal and a drink, head across Chalk Farm Road to the Lock Tavern (see p152), or to its near neighbour the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar. The Enterprise, a free house (pub) right outside Chalk Farm Road station, serves up a good pint.

Borough London’s larder by the river 10 D4 With the rumble and clatter of trains passing overhead, Borough Market (open noon–6pm Fri and 9am–4pm Sat) on the South Bank brightens the shadows of Southwark’s railway arches with bright red and yellow awnings spread above stalls selling Spanish hams, local breads, French cheeses, and wild game from the Highlands of Scotland. This is the belly of modern London, a neighbourhood crammed with the warehouses of food importers. As well as buying food to take away, market regulars can munch on juicy venison burgers, washed down with a pint at the Market Porter, The Wheatsheaf or the Globe Tavern. Day-trippers tend to take a more leisurely lunch, with a meal at Fish! or round the corner at Cantina Vinopolis. Though most signs point to Southwark Cathedral and the Thameside Walk, it’s worth exploring a few of Borough’s dark old streets, which yield up great pubs, such as the historic George Inn, just off Borough High Street, and the Royal Oak on Tabard Street.

Camden Lock is busiest on Saturdays and Sundays, but some shops and stalls are open all week 163 Streetlife

The South Bank riverside culture 10 A4 Wharf – a kind of middle-class shanty town, with At the heart of an arching, river-hugging cultural pizzerias and crafts shops, a place to hire bicycles quarter, the South Bank Complex includes the South (London Bicycle Tour Co) and Riverside Therapies for Bank Centre (see p129), (see p109) a shiatsu or Swedish back rub. Further east, crafts and (see p129). Tucked under continue at the Oxo Tower Wharf (see p91), also are the NFT (see p130), its lively Film home to its namesake restaurant (see p54). Café and some browsable second-hand bookstalls. Tate Modern (see p111) brings thousands to Few people are indifferent to the Brutalist/ Bankside daily, along the riverside walk, across the International Style architecture of these buildings, and Millennium Bridge from the direction of the City and the National Theatre in particular is often vilified – St Paul’s, or by riverboat (see p100). Theatregoers off unjustly so, given the fantastic interior spaces, which to Shakespeare’s Globe (see p130) and visitors to include many café, bar and foyer areas for socializing Vinopolis (a wine museum with a good bistro) swell and free entertainment. The Long Bar at the National, the numbers further. Two pubs on hand, The Anchor for example, hosts an excellent pre-theatre (see p154) and the Founders Arms, get very busy in programme of World Music in the early evening. summer. Venture just a little further along the river to To the west of this complex is the touristy area the freshly scrubbed Southwark Cathedral, and you around the London Eye (see p18). To the east, along will find plenty of great pubs and decent cafés, and the riverbank, is the quieter, prettier area of Gabriel’s the superb food market at Borough (see p163).

164 www.elondon.dk.com South

Northcote Road neighbourhood food market £ Clapham Junction Market open 9–5 Thu, Fri & Sat Clapham’s market road is at its jolliest on Saturdays. London’s foodies are well served by delicatessens, shops and stalls selling designer kitchenware, cheeses, artisan breads, meats and fresh fish. Make up a picnic to take to nearby Clapham Common or eat at the superb (No. 44). For a drink, it has to be The Eagle on Chatham Road. 7

Brixton lively days & even livelier nights At the southern end of the Victoria Tube line, Brixton is home to a mix of cultures and social groups. This diversity is reflected in the shops, cafés, restaurants, bars and clubs. Busy with a lively market by day, it is, however, at night that Brixton comes into its own, when it draws in a youthful, partying crowd. The Dogstar (see p154), Living and the Fridge Bar (see p153) all get going early, as do the local eateries – Ichiban for sushi, Fujiyama and the Satay Bar for noodles and rice dishes, and Bamboula for Caribbean food. For an unusual dining experience, try the camp Baroque of Café Goya; the excellent Caribbean cooking at the Brixtonian Havana Club (which also stocks more than 200 rums!); or the atmospheric Bug Restaurant, which shares St Matthew’s crypt with the Bug Bar & Lounge (see p154). As the night draws on, the streets are criss-crossed with people heading in different directions: the for live bands; the Juice Bar for poetry nights; the Ritzy (see p131) for films; Tongue & Groove and Neon for cocktails in a clubby vibe; or the pulsating George IV DJ bar on Brixton Hill. Mass, Substation South (gay) and the Fridge (mixed, see p153) are the big clubs with all-nighters on Fridays and Saturdays. Throughout the night, buses head back into central London from outside the Fridge, and there’s a black cab rank outside the cinema. But many revellers stay until 6am, spilling out onto Brixton’s green by the church in the early morning sunlight.

165 havens

Sometimes you just need to steal away from the accelerated pace of city life. A wealth of parks makes London one of the world’s greenest cities. But, even in the centre of town, there are many other places that offer solace and respite. Spas and massage provide deep relaxa- tion, and you will also find secret courtyards, old stone churches and tranquil woodland cemeteries in which to stroll or contemplate. Havens

Temple serene courtyards of the judiciary 10 A3 Off Fleet Street, EC4 • Tours 020 7797 8241 (minimum of 5) www.innertemple.org.uk or www.middletemple.org.uk Background noise drops to the level of polished shoes clipping across worn flagstones as soon as you ven- ture through the small archway of Inner Temple Lane. Take a slow stroll around the interconnected court- yards of the Inner and Middle Temples, surrounded by the chambers of law firms established here since the mid-14th century. Before that time, the area belonged to the Knights Templar; the statue by Temple Church (see p98), which depicts two knights sharing a horse, recalls the vows of poverty made by that military brotherhood when it was formed in 1117. By the side of Middle Temple’s Elizabethan Banqueting Hall is the perfect oasis of Fountain Court, its gnarled trees propped up by posts around a small pool and fountain, with plane trees towering over- head. Beyond here, lawns (usually open 12:30–3pm Mon–Fri) stretch down towards the Thames.

Indian Head Massage free your mind 8 C3 Farmacia, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1 • 020 7318 2365 www.farmacia123.com Head massage on Tue, Thu & every other Sat The Indian head massage technique uses pressure, finger taps and light flicks to release tension. The masseuse will concentrate on your head and neck, but may work all the way down to the tips of your toes in order to find the source of tension. You may experience some discomfort here and there, but, by the end of the half-hour session, you should feel a deep sense of relaxation.

Victoria Embankment 9 G4 Gardens breathing space Though small, these gardens are a treasure for any- one wishing to steal away from the hurly-burly of the city. A small café rustles up all-day breakfasts, and music plays from the bandstand in summer, while workers on their lunch break soak up the sunshine. Look for the implausibly placed watergate – the land around here was claimed from the Thames in 1862.

168 Seek out more alternative health and beauty centres through www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Elemis Day Spa queenly pampering 8 D3 2–3 Lancashire Court, W1 • 020 7499 5095 www.elemis.com Open from 9am daily Both men and women are welcome at this spa, which is renowned for discreet ocean wraps, Japanese silk facials, stone therapies, Balinese borehs and dozens of other exotic rituals. A “rasul” with mud in a steam room is the cheapest option, but you must book several weeks in advance or hope for a cancellation.

Bunhill Fields Burial Ground Blake’s resting place 10 D1 City Road & Bunhill Row, EC1 • 020 7374 4127 Open 7:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9:30–sunset Sat & Sun (4pm closing Oct–Mar) Close to the Barbican and a short walk from the buzz of Hoxton, is a remarkably quiet and shady spot. A pathway cuts through its little wooded burial ground, where the tombs of writers William Blake, Daniel Defoe and John Bunyan take pride of place. To the side of the graves is a glade-like lawn – a magical place to stretch out on a summer’s day and listen to the birdsong.

St Olave’s Recitals a melodious hour 11 E3 Hart Street, EC3 • 020 7488 4318 Recitals Wed & Thu 1–2pm; donations welcome Sitting in the cool of a stone church and listening to one of St Olave’s free lunchtime recitals is a splendid way to relax into a contemplative mood. London’s 17th-century diarist Samuel Pepys cherished St Olave’s, though he often slept through sermons. There’s a pretty little churchyard at the Seething Lane entrance.

The Royal Parks willows. The biggest is Hyde Park, though technically There are nine Royal Parks in all, some of them far its western end – where you’ll find the Serpentine from the city centre, in places such as Richmond and Gallery (see p101) and the Orangery (see p170) – is Greenwich (see p174). Of the central parks St James’s Kensington Gardens. Regent’s Park has attractive is the oldest, and is considered by many to be the formal gardens as well as wide open spaces, used to most elegant. It separates Crown (Buckingham host open-air theatre and concerts. Both Hyde Park Palace) and State (the Houses of Parliament) with a and Regent’s Park offer guided nature walks. For swathe of grassland and a lake fringed by languid details, visit www.royalparks.gov.uk.

Bloomsbury contains some of London’s most attractive garden squares 169 Havens

Holland Park genteel charm 6 D5 The former grounds of a Jacobean country house, Holland Park holds a variety of delights, including woodland walks, formal English gardens and a splendid French restaurant. The house itself stands at the centre of the park, but, never having recovered from bomb damage in World War II, it now serves mainly as a backdrop to outdoor performances on summer evenings. The outbuildings have fared better, with the Garden Ballroom now home to Marco Pierre White’s Belvedere restaurant (modestly priced for a set lunch). If your appetite or wallet are not up to that, look for the pleasant café offering simpler fare that has taken root next to one of the garden walls. The Rose Garden is perhaps the greatest sensorial delight of the formal gardens, while the Kyoto Garden, severe when laid out in 1991, has mellowed into a serene corner. The call of peacocks as they strut around their domain adds to the charm of the park.

Porchester Spa Art Deco retreat 7 F3 Queensway, W2 • 020 7792 3980 Open 10am–10pm daily; call for details of men-only, women-only & mixed sessions

This beautiful Art Deco day spa of the 1920s is great value and attracts a complete mix of people. Enjoy a Swedish massage or Moroccan glove body scrub, along with unlimited access to Turkish baths, Russian steam rooms and an icy plunge pool. Snacks are served in the frigidarium (cool room) upstairs.

Orangery antidote to museum fatigue 7 F5 Kensington Gardens, W8 • 020 7376 0239 Open Mar–Oct 10–6; Nov–Feb 10–5; tea served from 3pm Set next to Kensington Palace, the graceful Orangery, dating from 1704, is a light-filled, yet cool retreat. Add to this the glorious gardens and the chance to enjoy a leisurely summer lunch or afternoon tea at this supe- rior café, and you have ample reward for a morning spent shopping or in the museums of Kensington.

170 www.elondon.dk.com West

Chelsea Physic Garden herbal cures 14 B4 Swan Walk, SW3 • 020 7352 5646 www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk Open Apr–Oct: noon–5 Wed, 2–6 Sun & special events

A gateway bristling with knotted vegetation leads you into the secluded world of a garden in which the beauty and fragrance of the plants are matched by their restorative qualities. Established by the Society of Apothecaries in 1673, this was the herbal medicine cabinet of its day, and still operates as a research centre. Though dripping with blooms and bursting with verdant foliage, the World Medicine Garden and other areas retain a scientific orderliness, with small cards indicating the curative properties of each specimen. The turns out to be quite a fruit – not only has it been used to purge envy, but it is also thought to be a reasonable cure for worms. Sit in one of the tranquil spots where chairs have been set, and you’ll soon appreciate the simpler restorative qualities of this unique English garden.

Little Venice canal boats, cafés and bars 7 G1 Blomfield Road & Warwick Crescent, W2 Boat trips: London Waterbus Company, 020 7482 2660 Little Venice centres on the junction of two canals: Regent’s Canal, which links to the Thames, and the Grand Union, which extends all the way to Birmingham. Until relatively recently, this area was known as Browning’s Pool, in honour of the 19th- century poet Robert Browning, who lived nearby. The tranquil waterways are a delightful city oasis, overlooked by Rembrandt Gardens, and dotted with colourful houseboats, barges and pleasure craft. Locals sit and gaze at the scene, while boat owners potter about their cheerily decorated vessels. The neighbourhood has several nice eateries. One of the best is The Bridge House Canal Theatre Café on Delamere Terrace. This serves tasty food, and there’s also live comedy, music and theatre upstairs. You can also board a ferry at Little Venice, and take a 50-minute trip through Regent’s Park to Camden.

For some ideas for a leisurely breakfast in Little Venice, see p12 171 Havens

Hampstead Heath ancient heathland 1 C2 meander in a vaguely northeasterly direction, through This vast, elevated expanse of grassy slopes and woodlands up to Kenwood House (see p108), home woodlands, bordered on all sides by North London’s to the Iveagh Bequest, with a café in the old coach wealthiest residential districts, is a magnificent house. Just beyond the house, in the direction of remnant of real countryside within walking distance Highgate, are fantastic views. From these lofty heights, of the Tube. Londoners travel up here – in droves on central London unfolds in a smoky blue haze along Sundays – to gaze down upon their city, breathe the shallow valley of the Thames, the distant towers deep and shake off urban stresses. and construction cranes of the City and Docklands For a satisfying exploration of the Heath, try a contrasting with the slope of long grass at your feet. circular walk from Hampstead village. Starting at the Follow the path down the open slope and turn right Tube station, wander through the quiet back roads at the bottom of South Wood, which forms the boun- past historic houses where luminaries such as John dary of the Kenwood estate. From here, the path will Keats (see p108), George Orwell and H G Wells once take you back to Hampstead, past playing fields and lived. Crossing East Heath Road, you then step into old duelling grounds. Return to the welcoming pubs the wilds, initially following a wide track through the of Hampstead – The Freemason’s Arms (Downshire woods. The destinations of the many crisscrossing Hill), The Flask (Flask Lane), Ye Olde White Bear (Well paths are not easy to fathom, and it’s best to Road) and the Holly Bush (Holly Bush Steps).

172 Find out about events taking place in London’s parks via www.elondon.dk.com North

Highgate Woods woodland ramble A short walk up Muswell Hill Road from Highgate Tube station brings the woods into view: to your left, Highgate Wood proper; to your right, the dell of Queen’s Wood. Both are rich in oak and hornbeam and the sound of birdsong – about 70 species of birds have been spotted here. Either wood is blissful for an hour or so of rambling on footpaths. Highgate Wood is more open, the wide paths eventually giving way to a playing field and the pleasant Oshobasho Café (open 8:30am–6pm or dusk if earlier). The more densely forested Queen’s Wood has a Weekend Café (10–6 Sat & Sun), charmingly set amid the trees in a cottage with a verandah. Having cleared mind and lungs, reintroduce your- self to city life gradually by way of Highgate Village. Drop by the Flask (corner of The Grove and Highgate West Hill), which serves English ales and Belgian monastery brews, and good pub food. Also pay a visit to Highgate Cemetery (see p105), off Swain’s Lane.

Abney Park Cemetery graveyard for dissenters Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 • £ Stoke Newington 1 Angel or King’s Cross, then bus 73 www.abney-park.org.uk Open daylight hours daily

Neglected for much of the 20th century, Abney Park is a gothic fantasy – gravestones broken and scattered, statues toppled and overrun with ivy, and green tendrils grasping to reclaim the ground. This natural tide has been only partially stemmed by recent interventions to clear pathways, and it remains a wild and enchanting woodland. Among the religious nonconformists buried here the most famous is William Booth, founder of the Salvation Army. The main entrance, with its dramatic Egyptian gateway, is on Stamford Hill, but the more secretive way in is via a small gate on Church Street. The inner reaches – where you’ll eventually reach a decrepit chapel – can feel very remote, and if you are visiting alone you may feel safer at the weekend, when it becomes the haunt of local families.

After visiting Abney Park, wander along Church Street, which has good boutiques, bookshops and pubs 173 Havens

Greenwich Park panoramic views 16 C3 formal gardens and even Roman earthworks to Greenwich, SE10 • Park Office: 020 8858 2608 explore. But if you don’t want to lose sight of the www.royalparks.gov.uk/parks/greenwich_park river, head east to another promontory, One Tree Hill, Open from 6am daily on the Maze Hill side of the park. From here, there are A walk around this breezy, partly formal, partly wild views across to the Observatory and down to the Old park, which stretches from the historic dockyards at Royal Naval College (the Queens House, see p112, is Greenwich up the hill to Blackheath, offers fine views mostly obscured by a clump of trees at the foot of the of London. From the top of the park, you can see the hill). Beyond this looms Canary Wharf, the brown, silty Thames wend through the metropolis, its banks Thames looping at its feet. giving rise to some of the densest clusters of devel- Walk down one of the meandering pathways, past opment at Docklands, The City and Westminster. the children’s playground and then towards a gate Between the moored at that brings you out onto Park Row. You can either head and Wren’s Old Observatory at the top of the hill, the to the Thames end of the road for a drink and a plate park’s main paths are usually thronged with visitors, of whitebait at the Trafalgar Tavern (see p155) or take but stray from them and you can soon lose the an immediate right for a quieter drink at The Plume of crowds. Beyond the Observatory, heading south, Feathers. Either way, it’s good to finish off a walk in you’ll find a cricket green, the wilds of a deer park, Greenwich with a riverside stroll back to the pier.

174 www.elondon.dk.com South

Kew Gardens World Heritage beauty spot Near the entrance, the beautiful, steamy Palm Kew • 020 8332 5655 • 1£Kew Gardens House (1848) is popular, but you can ascend a spiral www.kew.org Open from 9:30am (closing times vary) staircase to the quieter elevated walkway. The The extensive, astonishingly lovely Royal Botanical Princess of Wales Conservatory, a mix of dry and Gardens are stocked with mature specimens of rare moist habitats, also draws a crowd, but is worth a (and ordinary) trees, plants and flowers collected saunter in May during the orchid festival. Queen over hundreds of years from the remotest corners of Charlotte’s Cottage dates from the 18th century and the world. From the Tube and train station it’s a well- was a favourite spot of this queen. She and husband signed 5-minute walk along leafy residential streets King George III would picnic here. It remains a perfect to the main, Victoria Park entrance. Maps, supplied idyll for a lazy afternoon munching sandwiches. If you with your tickets, place everything clearly. are lucky, you may be serenaded by a blackbird from The scale of Kew means that it is not difficult to find the branches of a silver birch. If you’ve neglected to private space. The gardens comprise both wild and bring a picnic, the Orangery is the best of several formal areas – gentle woodlands; pristine formal eating options, serving simple meals and cakes. lawns and beds overflowing with ever-changing floral Between the Orangery and the river is the formal displays; ornamental lakes stocked with wildfowl; Queen’s Garden – a place where statues punctuate elegant glass-houses; and an eclectic collection of walls of manicured hedges, laburnum drips from buildings including the landmark Pagoda. covered walkways and small fountains bubble. Adm

In Kew, consider a meal at the expensive but excellent Glasshouse (020 8940 6777) by the station 175 hotels

In this eclectic city, your choice of accommodation sets the tone for your visit. Would you like a classy residence in Chelsea, close to the boutiques? Or is high-voltage Covent Garden, right in the centre, more your style? Perhaps you’d like to sample the edgy glamour of Notting Hill or the laid-back cool of Clerkenwell. Hotel rates are quite high, but there’s memorable accommodation for all budgets. TOP CHOICES – hotels

ROMANTIC HIDEAWAYS SPAS & SPORTS GASTRONOMIC

Blakes Claridge’s 33 Roland Gardens, SW7 Park Lane, W1 Brook Street, W1 Blakes’ sumptuous rooms are per- The impressive Art Deco spa at this Claridge’s has the best hotel fect for lounging and loving. Wedding superbly appointed hotel offers a restaurant in town. Celebrated chef packages are available if you want range of luxurious treatments and Gordon Ramsay serves up the to take things further. (See p185) a well-equipped gym. (See p183) Michelin-starred nosh. (See p183)

Hamilton House Crescent Hotel 14 West Grove, Greenwich, SE10 49–50 Cartwright Gardens, WC1 The pretty honeymoon suite in this Guests have access to Georgian house has breathtaking the tennis courts opposite, views of the Thames snaking past and can even borrow Greenwich. (See p189) racquets. (See p181)

The Portobello Hotel 22 Stanley Gardens, W11 1 Adlwych, WC2 Luxurious furnishings include round Underwater music plays through the Prices quoted for beds, Moroccan cushions and a hotel’s 18-m (60-ft) pool. There’s also may or may not include VAT (17.5% tax), Victorian claw-foot tub right in the high-tech equipment and free per- so always check when getting a quote. middle of the room... (See p186) sonal training in the gym. (See p180)

If you are flexible about the dates of Hotel Great Eastern Hotel your stay, www.hoteldirect.co.uk/london 8–18 London Bridge Street, SE1 Liverpool Street, EC2 offers a quick and easy way to find some Free entry to the adjoining gym is Design guru and restaurateur of the best discounts on rooms in among the facilities here. You could Terence Conran has installed five London’s hotels. also just as easily go for a jog by fabulous eateries at this hotel. the river. (See p189) Aurora is best of the lot. (See p187)

Miller’s Residence The Metropolitan 111a Westbourne Grove, W2 It may not be part of the hotel A precious find, this atmos- itself, but acclaimed modern pheric, antiques-crammed Japanese restaurant Nobu sits guesthouse is lit by candles atop the cool and stylish after dark. (See p186) Metropolitan. (See p182)

178 For online services that book hotels at all prices, see www.elondon.dk.com TOP CHOICES – hotels

STYLE STATEMENTS BEST OF THE BARGAINS VIEWS & LOCALES

Hazlitt’s 6 Frith Street, W1 10 Monmouth Street, WC2 Hazlitt’s is true to its period In the middle of Covent Garden, heritage, right down to the paint this hotel can’t be beaten when colours, carved bedsteads and old- it comes to combining style and fashioned WCs. (See p181) a central location. (See p180)

Malmaison The Franklin Charterhouse Square, EC1 28 Egerton Gardens, SW3 Contemporary furnishings and If you are looking for an alternative Reserve a room at the back of this specially commissioned photographs to a hotel, www.yourstay.com/london Knightsbridge townhouse hotel to set the style for this chic yet afford- offers well-appointed apartments for overlook the tranquil, residents-only able small chain hotel. (See p187) short-term rental. gardens. (See p184)

Abbey House Travel Inn, County Hall Holiday Inn Express, Old Street 11 Vicarage Gate, W8 Belvedere Road, SE1 275 Old Street, EC1 Comfortable, Victorian-style rooms Reliable chain accommodation is In hip Hoxton, this is the perfect are the defining feature of an brought to a fantastic location here, base if you intend spending your elegant address. Shared facilities just steps away from the London days bar- and gallery-hopping, and keep the prices down. (See p186) Eye and Saatchi Gallery. (See p189) your nights in the clubs. (See p189)

The Zetter Dover Hotel www.hotels-london.co.uk is an 86–8 Clerkenwell Road, EC1 42–4 Belgrave Road, SW1 online booking agency that also has This loft hotel, converted from a It’s seriously cheap, but the Dover lists of useful web links, last-minute warehouse, is decked out with 70s has satellite TV and modern ensuite deals and special offers. furniture, hand-printed panels and facilities in every room. (See p183) top-notch showers. (See p188)

Many London hotels that cater mainly to business travellers offer good weekend deals 179 Hotels

One Aldwych contemporary grand hotel 9 H3 with silk drapes and plush upholstery. The suites at 1 Aldwych, WC2 • 020 7300 1000 the front of the building, under a coppered cupola, www.onealdwych.co.uk are circular. Every detail has been considered: flowers The neo-grand design of this hotel became an instant are changed daily, and the terrazzo-stone bathrooms hit with the style-conscious when it opened in the have heated floors and mini TVs. The health club late 1990s. Occupying a former newspaper HQ on one surpasses most hotel gyms, with personal trainers on corner of the Aldwych, it gives monumental elegance call and a pool with underwater music. a modern edge. Staff wear lavender shirts designed The Lobby Bar (see p136), with its high ceiling, by cool Savile Row tailor Richard James, and the arched windows and dramatic sculptures, is always walls are adorned with 350 original works of art. The lively. There are two well-regarded restaurants, Axis rooms are surprisingly quiet, given the hotel’s central and the less formal Indigo (both modern European position. Their styling is contemporary yet colourful, cuisine), and a chic coffee bar. Expensive

Covent Garden Hotel theatreland retreat 9 F3 10 Monmouth Street, WC2 • 020 7806 1000 www.firmdalehotels.com Its location in London’s Theatreland makes this cosy hotel a favourite with actors and others in the film and performing arts industries. The luxurious screen- ing room gets plenty of use. Rooms are individually decorated in updated English style, one with a vast four-poster bed. Expensive

180 Check out the best deals and reserve a room via www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Hazlitt’s authentic period hotel 9 F3 6 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7434 1771 www.hazlittshotel.com The Soho home of 18th-century essayist William Hazlitt is true to its heritage while providing 21st-century comforts. The panelled rooms contain fireplaces, antique headboards and rolltop baths, yet there’s also air-conditioning and Internet access. The drawing room has books signed by literary guests. Expensive

Charlotte Street Hotel artistic digs 9 E2 15 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7806 2000 www.charlottestreethotel.com Set amid Charlotte Street’s eclectic restaurants, this understated hotel combines original works by “Bloomsbury set” artists, reflecting the legacy of its location, with modern gadgets such as mini TVs in the luxurious granite bathrooms. The bar buzzes with media folk, and there’s a swanky screening room. Expensive

Crescent Hotel tidy guesthouse 3 F5 49–50 Cartwright Gardens, WC1 • 020 7387 1515 www.CrescentHotelofLondon.com The best of several small hotels occupying a Georgian crescent near University College, the Crescent is smart and well kept. There are TVs in the bedrooms, a guests’ lounge and a cheerful breakfast room with a characterful old cast-iron cooker. Guests may use the tennis courts in the garden opposite. Cheap

Generator futuristic budget hotel 3 G5 Compton Place, off Tavistock Place, WC1 • 020 7388 7666 www.generatorhostels.com London’s biggest backpackers’ hostel is decked out in stainless steel and neon. Accommodation is no- frills: bed down in a communal dorm or pay a little more for a private room. However, with a bar open until 2am, karaoke and a 24-hour Internet café, the young guests aren’t here just to rest. Cheap

Expensive: over £200 for a double room per night; moderate: £120–200; cheap: £10–120 181 Hotels

The Metropolitan cool & contemporary 8 C5 windows. The Metropolitan has all the amenities you Old Park Lane, W1 • 020 7447 1000 would expect from a top-class hotel – glamorous www.metropolitan.como.bz marble bathrooms, Internet access, CD players, DVDs This minimalist upstart caused a stir when it joined on request – plus some fabulous “extras” that make the luxury line-up overlooking Hyde Park in 1997; it it a bit more special. The health club offers holistic was the first new hotel to open on Park Lane for two treatments using the natural COMO Shambhala decades. Its understated chic hasn’t dated a bit. products devised at the hotel’s Caribbean sister Armani-clad staff waft around the cream lobby, with resort. As a guest, you’re assured entry to the tiny its 1930s-inspired club chairs. Rooms are contem- members-only Met Bar – a notorious celebrity hotspot porary yet comfortable, with blond-wood furniture, in the 1990s, which still draws a cool clientele. The harmonious pale fabrics, and plenty of light (London Michelin-starred modern Japanese restaurant Nobu weather permitting) streaming through the plate-glass (see p34) is literally on your doorstep. Expensive

Durrants authentic Georgian pile 8 B2 George Street, W1 • 020 7935 8131 www.durrantshotel.co.uk Established in 1790, Durrants, in trendy Marylebone, is appealingly old-fashioned. The hotel has a warren of rooms spread across several terraced houses. Antiques and old prints feature heavily. Bathrooms, thankfully, are comfortably modern. The restaurant and bar have the air of a gentlemen’s club. Moderate

182 www.elondon.dk.com Centre

Dorset Square English country chic 8 B1 39 Dorset Square, NW1 • 020 7723 7874 www.dorsetsquare.co.uk Overlooking a lovely garden square – the site of the world’s first cricket ground – this sprawling Regency house has a rustic feel, with distressed wood, floral fabrics and a cosy drawing room. The restaurant serves modern European cuisine. Marylebone Village and Regent’s Park are a stroll away. Expensive

Dover Hotel well-maintained modern B&B 15 E3 42–4 Belgrave Road, SW1 • 020 7821 9085 www.dover-hotel.co.uk Just up the road from Victoria Station and well placed for the pubs and cafés of Pimlico, this welcoming B&B in a grand stucco-fronted terrace offers an ensuite shower, WC and satellite TV in every room. It may not be fancy, but its rooms are refreshingly modern and immaculately clean. Cheap

Tophams Belgravia essentially English 14 D2 28 Ebury Street, SW1 • 020 7730 8147 www.zolahotels.com The hotel, previously owned by the Topham family for over 60 years, occupies five 19th-century houses in an upmarket Belgravia street. In terms of decor, it’s like staying with an elderly aunt (think chintz and china cabinets), but it’s cosy and characterful, and has an elegant restaurant. Moderate

Grand Old Dames legendary American Bar (see p137) was the birth- Just off smart shopping strip Bond Street, place of the dry Martini. For unashamed indul- Claridge’s has long been favoured by European gence, the grandiose Dorchester overlooking Hyde royalty, and now lures gourmets with Michelin- Park boasts an Art Deco spa and nearly three staff starred chef Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous to every guest room. Rooms at the Ritz, on restaurant. Opened in 1889 to accommodate Piccadilly, are sumptuous in Louis XVI style. Its theatre-goers, The Savoy, on the Strand, has 1930s Rivoli Bar has been splendidly restored. For numerous show business connections, and its details of all hotels, see p229.

Our price categories are based on hotel “rack” rates, but big discounts are frequently available 183 Hotels

City Inn Westminster unpretentious 15 F3 30 John Islip Street, SW1 • 020 7630 1000 www.cityinn.com Around the corner from Tate Britain and handy Millbank Pier (see p99), this slick, design-conscious newcomer is part of a small chain. It offers many of the facilities of a luxury hotel – DVD players, broadband Internet, bathrobes – without any attitude. Deals on the website make it even more of a bargain. Moderate

The Franklin understated English townhouse 14 A2 28 Egerton Gardens, SW3 • 020 7584 5533 www.franklinhotel.co.uk Located in a quiet Knightsbridge street, the Franklin offers an opportunity to see how the other half lives. It’s like staying in the private home of an affluent family, complete with framed portraits, antiques, fine English fabrics and secluded residents’ gardens at the back. Moderate

Mayflower affordable “boutique” style 13 E3 26–8 Trebovir Road, SW5 • 020 7370 0991 www.mayflowerhotel.co.uk This affordable gem, in a grand terrace in busy Earl’s Court, has recently been refurbished. Now each room has its own style, which might be contemporary, antique or slightly Oriental. Touches of luxury include marble bathrooms and balconies off some rooms. Cheap

Five Sumner Place spacious & attractive 13 H3 5 Sumner Place, SW7 • 020 7584 7586 www.sumnerplace.com Set in a white stuccoed terrace, this immaculately maintained hotel is well placed for the museums and shops of South Kensington. Although decorated in an unremarkable traditional English style, the rooms are comfortable, and large by London standards. Break- fast is served in a pretty conservatory. Moderate

184 Browse hotels by area at www.elondon.dk.com Centre & West

Blakes sumptuous designer hideaway 13 G3 wide array of styles. The lobby has a colonial air, with 33 Roland Gardens, SW7 • 020 7370 6701 bamboo furniture, antique birdcages and vintage www.blakeshotels.com Louis Vuitton trunks. The individually designed Opened in the early 1980s by socialite designer bedrooms, with sweeping draperies and exceptional Anouska Hempel, Blakes is London’s original items of antique furniture and artifacts – many of boutique hotel. Its effortless sense of style and which were acquired by Hempel on her travels – discreet Kensington location have attracted the rich range in theme from opulent Oriental to Baroque and famous from the beginning. Italian. The restaurant is in the basement, its cuisine In contrast to Hempel’s homage to minimalism in a blend of East and West. Adjoining it are Blakes Bar her eponymous hotel, The Hempel, Blakes is a riot of and the Chinese Room – a dark, mysterious lounge, beautiful furniture and curios; a living textbook for dressed with an elaborate screen, banquettes designers and aficionados of interiors, packing in a and cushions. Expensive

The Colonnade informal grand house 7 F1 2 Warrington Crescent, W9 • 020 7286 1052 www.theetoncollection.com There’s an air of posh informality about this hotel, which comprises two Victorian mansions near Little Venice (see p171). Open since the 1930s, it’s been extensively refurbished. Most rooms are comfortably opulent, some with four-poster beds. The sea-themed “Cabin” has a bunk bed and portholes. Moderate

185 Hotels

The Portobello divinely decadent 6 D3 22 Stanley Gardens, W11 • 020 7727 2777 www.portobello-hotel.co.uk Join the list of rock and film stars who have stayed at this over-the-top Notting Hill townhouse. Many rooms are themed – Moroccan, Japanese, Colonial – with exciting features such as round or four-poster beds and Victorian bathtubs (Alice Cooper kept his boa constrictor in one). Moderate

Miller’s Residence unusual guesthouse 7 E3 111a Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7243 1024 www.millersuk.com A discreet entrance off busy Westbourne Grove leads to one of London’s most atmospheric hotels. Owned by antiques expert Martin Miller, it’s crammed with bric-a-brac and unusual pieces. There’s a free bar and snacks are available in the cluttered drawing room, which is candlelit at night. Moderate

Abbey House superior B&B 7 E5 11 Vicarage Gate, W8 • 020 7727 2594 www.abbeyhousekensington.com This friendly B&B in a grand Victorian house near Kensington High Street has been owned by the same family for 25 years. It is refurbished annually and offers spotlessly clean, comfortable accommodation with shared facilities. All rooms have orthopaedic mattresses and colour TVs. Cheap

Booking a Hotel operates a 24-hour booking service by phone (020 Book as far as possible in advance for the best rates 7340 1616) and online (www.bhrc.co.uk). The agency and widest choice. Special deals often feature on www.pinkhotels.com specializes in finding rooms at hotel websites and sites of the many Internet-based gay- and lesbian-friendly hotels. Always check the agencies. Try www.visitlondon.com – the website of booking details. Many hotels do not include VAT the official tourist board – which has reviews, (17.5%) in the quotation, but add it to the final bill. discounted rates and links to dozens of London Some quotes are per person, others are per room. hotels. The British Hotel Reservation Centre Check, too, whether breakfast is included.

186 To find a room at the last minute, turn to www.elondon.dk.com West, City & East

Great Eastern Conran-styled grand hotel 11 E2 Whitechapel Gallery. The Conran aesthetic runs to the Liverpool Street, EC2 • 020 7618 5000 bedrooms, which are furnished with his own designs www.great-eastern-hotel.co.uk and original pieces by Eames and Arne Jacobson. Built in the golden age of rail travel, the magnificent Black-and-white tiled bathrooms come complete with 19th-century hotel next to was natural Ren products, and all the requisite high-tech recently given a makeover by the Conran Group – the business facilities are available. The well-equipped design consultancy of style guru Terence Conran. The gym is set in a former Masonic temple. result is a dramatic marriage of Victorian grandeur With his restaurateur’s hat on, Conran has also made (marble staircases, soaring ceilings, ornate this a serious dining destination. There are no fewer plasterwork) with 21st-century design (contemporary than five eateries, the best of which is the glamorous colour schemes, modern furniture, high-tech Aurora, with a stunning original stained-glass ceiling facilities). Exciting works of contemporary art are dome. The modern brasserie Terminus is a less formal displayed throughout, some on loan from nearby place – noisy, vibrant and fun. Expensive

Malmaison French-inspired mini-chain 10 B1 Charterhouse Square, EC1 • 020 7012 3700 www.malmaison.com This converted Victorian nurses’ residence maintains its reputation for contemporary luxury at a great price. CD players and minibars stocked with French wines come as standard in the chic, spacious rooms. A buzzing brasserie and bar and high-tech gym complete the thoroughly modern package. Moderate

187 Hotels

The Zetter eclectic loft style 10 B1 86–8 Clerkenwell Road, EC1 • 020 7324 4444 www.thezetter.com Clerkenwell is an area known for its cool loft apart- ments, and it now has a loft hotel. Converted from a 19th-century warehouse, the Zetter has five floors set around a central atrium, and rooms featuring huge factory windows and exposed brick. The décor is an eclectic mix: reconditioned 1970s furniture, hand- printed panels, slick modern elements such as state- of-the-art showers, and cosy touches such as hot- water bottles. Old Penguin paperbacks and free copies of Time Out provide inspiring bedtime reading. Instead of minibars, vending machines on each floor dispense everything from toothpaste to champagne; just insert your room card and the charge is put on the tab. The top-floor studios have sundecks with views across the city. The hotel’s modern Italian restaurant, with tables on St John’s Square in summer, is a destination in its own right. Moderate

The Rookery historic hideaway 10 B1 Peter’s Lane, Cowcross Street, EC1 • 020 7336 0931 www.rookeryhotel.com The Clerkenwell sister of Hazlitt’s (see p181) occupies six Georgian houses and shops (faded butcher’s and baker’s signs are still visible). Decorated with quirky antiques, it retains many original features, such as flagstone floors in the hall and ceiling beams in some bedrooms, while offering all mod cons. Expensive

La Gaffe unpretentious Hampstead hotel 1 A4 107–11 Heath Street, NW3 • 020 7435 8965/4941 www.lagaffe.co.uk Set above an Italian restaurant amid Hampstead’s winding lanes and quaint cottages, this small, family- run hotel is very reasonably priced. It’s style isn’t much to speak of – more provincial B&B than smart hotel – but La Gaffe is handy for the local boutiques and, of course, the Heath (see p172). Cheap

188 www.elondon.dk.com City & East, North & South

London Bridge Hotel 10 D5 8–18 London Bridge Street, SE1 • 020 7855 2200 www.londonbridgehotel.com Close to Borough Market (see p163), this hotel has comfortable, if somewhat corporate-style, accommo- dation. “Executive” rooms are better, with more contemporary fittings. Guests can enjoy free entry to the adjoining Fitness First health club, and there’s a decent Malaysian restaurant in-house. Moderate

Mercure London 10 B4 City Bankside modern Euro-style chain 77–9 Southwark Street, SE1 • 020 7902 0800 www.mercure.com This spare, modern hotel is geared mainly towards business travellers, but cheap weekend deals and its position near the Tate Modern and South Bank make it attractive to tourists. There’s a small gym, and a stylish restaurant with an extensive wine list. Moderate

Hamilton House elegant village retreat 16 C4 14 West Grove, Greenwich, SE10 • 020 8694 9899 www.hamiltonhousehotel.co.uk Nautical buffs will delight in the seafaring pedigree of this Georgian house overlooking Blackheath – handy for Greenwich Park and its various historical sites. The décor makes use of pale colours and antique- effect bedspreads. Some rooms have breathtaking views of the Thames. Moderate

Chains chain Travel Inn (www.travelinn.co.uk) is housed in If you’re after budget accommodation, it’s worth the former County Hall – steps away from the considering a chain hotel: the rooms may be bland, London Eye and South Bank complex. For river but there won’t be any nasty surprises, and, views, however, you’ll have to stay at the pricier increasingly, you can stay in some of London’s Marriott (www.marriott.com), which shares the hottest areas. Holiday Inn (www.holiday-inn.com) building. More upmarket is the London Docklands has an affordable Express branch amid the hip bars Hilton (www.hilton.com), which has a pool, river of Hoxton (275 Old St, EC1). An outpost of cheap views from some rooms and cheap special offers.

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London Street Finder

Almost every listing in this guide includes a boxed Greater London page and grid reference to the maps in this A1 A41 HIGHGATE section. The few entries that fall outside the area Hackney A11 R A HAMPSTEAD Marshes L A10 U covered by these maps give transport details WEMBLEY C R I C H A5 instead. The main map below shows the division T HACKNEY R O WILLESDEN N A40 of the Street Finder, along with postcodes. A13

Th CENTRAL ames LONDON ACTON DOCKLANDS Key to Street Finder 8 Police station M 4 A2 Sight/public building 5 Church GREENWICH A202 1 Underground station 7 Synagogue KEW FULHAM A20 PUTNEY CLAPHAM £ U Mosque A3 Railway station BRIXTON LAR RICHMOND SOUTH CU A316 CIR A2212 @ Coach station N Post office Richmond A205 T Park h DULWICH a m e 4 River boat pier Railway line s WIMBLEDON A A24 23 A308 A3 A21 n Tourist information office Pedestrian street HAMPTON A Hospital with casualty unit Motorway COURT 55miles0 km

N2 NW2 N6 Scale of maps 1–16 1 0 metres 500 Hampsptead H Heath O L L O W 0 yards 500 A NW3 Y R O A F D I HAMPSTEAD N5 N C H L E D Y NW5 A N7

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LONGRIDGE ROAD L R O A A R R E T MA P D G R ONSLOW S R EL N EV E ONSLOW Y R S HOGARTH ROAD U FI O R E T T PLA D CE O R COLBECK MEWSG WETHERBY PL IL T CRA SQUARE N O A D LA U O N C O D IN R O LE EY D S C R R C L A A D G O NLEY PLACE E R LAVERTON PL H SA NEVERNNEVERN P S RO T A EA ON BINA GARDENS C T COLLIN EN RY V P SQUARE E O PON O KS GARDEN ARD G R S GLEDHOW ONSLOW GGARDENS M D PLACE SQUARE 5 A R D R 1 GHAM W U BA EN BY O 5 ER SY D Earls R RD GARDENS S EN CE R F O A R A A D O T GA PL B Court DENS WETH S IN U NEY STREET AD HESPER MEWSAR CH L GARDENSBOLT RE D IS G B L W R GARDENS T RO HAM O ON W E R IR C RA I R BRAM 3 D R A M C BOV ERN O A CRESSW ROLAND GARDENSCRANLEY MEWS NEVILLE STREET Earls O GARDENS C K N L ONSLO E TRE YW R NA L O R A Court A ARE EY G ELL PEN QU H T S D D S 1 RT BOLTON GARDENS E R C L O E G S OU ON A RDNE S E N D D A R D E V AL S C T 0 W RA C T U E R ARL 10 A H E W S S « P E MP HI H O R 7 YA F O A 322 23 ELM T « O U CHELSEA SQUARE S QU SELWOOD PLACE U R S O AD T » PLA S T D B H LE S OUR T E R E C T 5 CE Earls Court S L A L RL H T S H P EG A E B Y Exhibition Centre N E E LD E N O E 3 COLEHERNE L T S D O L K LA 24 5 O T T CA R IC « L R R COURT O A COLEHERNE ROAD I N R

T N E EVELYN G B T E V E O O

E S R D L E L LY E

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O N D N V ELM PARK GARDENS D

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HARLEY G EN K L H H A TO D D E PRIORY W S I R A U SA A RCO E F U N O GILSTON ROAD F Q N R S S R ARD R I F U S ELM PARK GARDENS C CA RED N RT TERRA EN O E 5 H RLYLE S 5 A D C S E LIFFE M R D 27 B FF RNE « E BO E S CLI IL V D D A T QU West O RED G REDCLIFFE ROAD M A W EW CE GRO BEAUFORT STREET O A 1 E UNT R R AR Brompton ST A S O O G E E R G S AT E D E R E Y M R K E R A B O T CALLOW STREET T D R RAME E TR O RR D O A U A STREE SEAGRAVE ROAD P A U 4 C E R E G E R W MULBERRY WALK O RT I H T O L L Y ON L ICKET H N A M THE VALE R T R L K L ONGAR ROAD T IL S S E L T W R O O M ALLORD STREET M O BROMPTON P R CA D A L L T R A S O MI R D TH REE O A 5 ' PAULTONS H K IF A A D E L G C C R CHELSEA PARK GDNS I SQUARE D ST N S N H AT E T U OT W L I U ROAD M D CET ERA PL A F R CEMETERY W N CAM L K W A F K B C O 5 NETHERTON GROVE EA H R HT OMP R T R B O O 413 S N « S 14 ROAD T U SEA RK A 5 D PAULTONS ST A REDCLIFFE PL P T R FO D D EDITH GROVE A A E N V R O C HOBURY STREET 5 G RAV E R ET EE

OAD R E R S E S C T ST R RTE E R N SHA SS T D T FERNSHAW ROAD M R GERTRUDELCOM STREET E IL T FOR R ROPER'S T PTON GUNTER GROVE LA M A R E L O M S SLAIDBURN STREET E GARDEN A NGTO B STREET H K N A D BRO CRE 5 E E RK N N E T T PA S MORAVIAN IV N ST ST PLACE 453 E T « LAMONT ROAD K REE R E E T R CE L A «104 AL LE O H A N DA R T N A D R N W R E O E A D TE A G R R T H 5 A E DIT S N D E AS R ROV E 510 WORLD’S END P G BILLING N S « CHEY 465 STACE M ROAD « Battersea Bridge EU IA 5 HA R E 5 AL D DIT W O 5 Stamford A D A H G FARM LANE O V «538 R E A Bridge TYR STR N N E S A E T L T O B RO 17 N N WANSDOWN PL P » L A Fulham S VE C ' Broadway T A E G D E M

FULHAM 1 HILARY CLOSE W N D » BROADWAY 5 A R I LOT'S A N ROAD « 19 E 508 D R 33 « » O K N D 623 R 5 D LOTS RD E F G H W 2 » IL T G

ST LIA N Knightsbridge E KN Harvey M C RU I G H TSBRIDG LT O N R RUTLAND GARDENS E 2 I WILMINGTON MEWS R S TR W W O « E T TLAND GATE Nichols ILTON W OSVE EVO BUCKINGHAM PLACE R Buckingham TREVOR PLACE C REE R D H Palace R HEADFORT PLACE ST TREET SCENT T S A E EL LOW R O PHA SLO C S RA ET R A E N

LA SQUARE E TREVOR E I R S IN R PALACE

SQUARE NCE W V K MONTROSE PLACE T N E

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R G R W M ONTPELIER T N M G O P N N ON EL KNIGHTSBRIDGE V WA GARDENS B IS LA E S M RUTLAND ILIO V Q T CE ET O A UAR LK PE M ST R E PL R SQUARE T CHESTER M E GA O G R L Knightsbridge G E N REE IE EL TE T T H S B S T R N A PE AN B A CHAPEL STREET E R M R P WA PL R N RO ER A IE L S EW D » ST L ONTPEL Harrods CO R 38 CE A M I 60 T C E E S E N O ST » L RSTREET H T ESTE O L M E S ESCEN T E H K CR A H C SI LE Royal T N C T S IT A BE UPPER B L Mews B L P G RA E L C LWR GROSVENOR R O VE ELG 43 M W A » 0 B O M PLACE RO CADOGAN PL N L RA GROSVENOR GARDENS B 15 A D A CAD EW PL R « M D D P VE STRE T ES O PT E R S RB B ON BELGRAVIAS 31» EN E S W A S A G D COTTAGE CHEVAL PLACE U PL HANS R N PL R FO O E E PLACE OS O M A T S M BELGRAVE ET B QUS GA T PLACE BEAUCHAMR C R E V N T G E CE E B E T A NO AR H TP D N S R EN L H E LA HO P A C E BEESTO S P HANS ST L EATON LANE L O N O ALLINGTON STREET ER W LO O P PLACE PL AR VING O N U W VING A D PLACE ECCLESTON MEWS ER GAR ALTON C ES SQ NT STREET E DENS Y TON GA W PO B U TO CHESHAM S Q EO ARE ELG Brompton N T E CADOGAN LANE M R E R Victoria RDENS S T TH P A Oratory AN R VE T N ’S O N O RE S EGERTONER TTERRACEON RO P PAVILION ROAD LYALL STREET N TR EG S A P N U EET D

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RS ME S S

S R M PL O ON S E E CHESTER SQUARE TREET N TO R TST W IL M O T MAR RICHARD'S PL T RE T M E EA A CE S EA U S EL ACE L W Q L T TON LB CADOGAN GATE S EW LAC TH TERRA A BUILD R HALSEY STREET E R O P SOU B OR S IZ U E ELLIS STREET T M E P OUG N T E W L IN E ER EATON A cc L GATE ES A le G S G T NS SOUTH EATONTO PLACE S H RDE R sto D E G ST GA W BET n I C A EA Br RD P id R M A E M TREET g B NS T T RAWLINGS STREET IN e PL E E T E E R H R DOGAN EATONE TERRACE E T CA RA O N TREET REE M 315a N BELGRAVEG T C EW GILLINGHAMU « O PS S ST R ES S S DRAYCOTT TERR A IL D S GERALD ROAD D IV D R H ER T EET B The Conran E R ECCLESTON PLACE O 6 O OSSO E R U « CLIVEDEN PL M M NY R G AN SE Shop T Jo Malone E TE S A OG S 27 L DE D EN EBURYVictoria E N U N N CA LIN A » RD E O E O C A D A AN R R GA SLO Sloane Coach G G T CA N S AYC S REE Elizab ST LE O E AR YMONS ST S E M L E Y L C Square T Station O D eth Brid E E STR A OTTROSEMOOR STA AR E Y S LA DEN Peter U N C SQ SLOANE GARDENS E B O ge CLE R P E L H R P T L S Jones CHESTER ROW NGH A TT P OW O L A A A N U H EC O D S CUNDY ST I C G L C E N A E C D R N G E V A V B VICTORIA EBURY V O AY SQU R FOR E E L ER ST E RD G E D A N DR CU I HU N N W U A AY ER T S UE S T SQUARE CA H E ST GEORGE'S G SLOANE ST P Y M U O UCK PETY ’S CE BR W O L R E R R D A T K O EET R A A L ID E EA GRAHAM TERRACE U B LB TE Y PL TR G IC RE C B D R T EH A S T E STR A S R E R W IT N E E M H B N W ANDERSON ST LSO Ebury Bridge E Y AR IXWORTH PLACE U ROAD W O S E C T EET CHELSEA C C O D S N PLA H T STA E C B ELY L I A T R S TE L A D M A ' NH R E EE G J M N O E ASTELL STREET T U A A I R SAINT LUKE’S STREET O M P A R R KH G W T B B REET N MARKHAM D TE ST A SLOA BLOOMFIELD TERR A WI I S U L RR F NCH CAM L SQUARE N P O ST CALE R A NE C R B A M E E I L E S T R E E T C EA ET ESTER E E BR E E O Y ST ID K UR S ST R O E GE S T S P FRANKLIN'S ROW N A L T A W RANELAGH GROVE G T L SY TRE E Y A ST D R R L V CE ROAD O A LIN S RE T E R E N D UT E E G D E N C L I ET E TO TURK’S ROW W H ET PEABODY AVENUE E Y ND ERLA RE T E N U SQUA R ES C U M T E TU TM N S T B D SMITHR STREET REN E 'S TERRA R B ER EY PEN O E R STREE LL ST T SA AD R S N R UR RD EL L A E B EE LA TTEN T C RI T IN A X N D STRB C NA C E U N RO Chelsea E S O H S Y D W S L T US T G E Royal R ES S TREE R E C ER TM L ST LEO U ORE E T R A A BURTON'S COURT Hospital G R T S A E R B A L SHAWFIELD STREET C L E R T AND ET D E L E

E I A S N O R PL T T ' R FF E E A TR H N S W IT E M S S ORMONDE NGMAN A W U ELL L K P KI T BU IN TEDWORTH E GTO U ILD RE ROYAL HOSPITAL ROAD IN N L RANELAGH O RO GS F T SQUARE ST GATE C A L EE

TR D O S C H E T U R K A O L C H O A CH IT GARDENS I L E L G D S L D ES D E «124 T E R HUR S R C B MARGARETTA TERRACE LEY FLOOD WALK EET L P E E CE ST LA I TR T E P R S S REDBURN STREET National A H M T LPH A A T C H OAD T N S P Army AC R A ER

E Grosvenor Bridge RA VER E A L R Museum M C D TE K E A IS E E N OAKLEY A Chelsea Bridge T IT S W A W E B C A M LA SP L E N K ENT VE O W A LEBE P STR GARDENS O A E G A L K S ST LO DENS L PHENE ST Chelsea EMBANKM E L H GAR CHEYNE GDNS DILKE STREET «3 C H EET Physic UPPER CHEYNE ROW Garden ROYA Carlyle's N T House A LK E LAW E W M STR CHEYN NK RENCE B A EET A L K A E M QUEENSTOW E W E Y N S HE R I V ENO R T H C L G E D E I A H RR C C A Albert Bridge Battersea Chelsea Old Power Station Church Peace Pagoda DE ARA C P A THE R R I A G E TH R D R I NO V E N RD NA E E A S IV T H R D A E LT G BISHOP'S RD IA R R R A AO C

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HESTER ROAD D ST Lake Q U S GREAT GEORGE STREET E N E E Westminster Westmin N D ster Bridge 'S R S G A P U PARL WESTMINSTE SH E IAMEN BRIDGE STREET R A LK T R R SQ BRIDGE ROAD W A R O AT ES M

U E W OLD QUEEN STREET G

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D IR ’ B R D W A T E ENT Florence E ' S G E I A N N T N A LO

S EY Nightingale S H R KM TE T O

ST MARGARET ST EN N U O R O Museum R

T B Guards S St Margaret's M T BA

UE Houses of RI E B U R H

A D Museum Q Church C C RS D Parliament G K A E TOTHILL STRE A I N E T RD L RM G St James's E E s A P H C P P AN A Park LBERT EM P AM G R L T F OLD PALACE YARD A U M E Y E Westminster e T E H R RS PET BROAD SANCTUARY T E BROADWAY DACRE ST T Abbey St ROY S E A T LS N New H Thomas' B TR TREET T DEAN'S m E A I E S T E A Jewel T S N Hospital M R TE ET L Scotland Yard M YARD E A E E S A T L TREET Tower ILFRED TON S a L CAX T W E RD STREET L RCHA A T O S EY A ST A B RE AB Blewcoat E ASTRAB h C G IN D

GD RI N A School G N R SL O EA ON O T T T 'S C S OLL T T S EG O L D PY E ST R E E E CO EET VIC TR STR S LIT STAG PLACE RLI GR TR L

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LEG E TLE AD SRCOSSER S ET T UT MILLBANK T O A E E r E UN O ARCHBISHOP'S L TO E STRE ET C U SPENSER STREET OW ER R ET GAYFERE STREET R TUFTON STREET D T N REAT P C S R G 116 R e E

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R H O W I CK R P MONCK STREET AC

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T E L C S V I C HORSEFERRY ROAD STMINSTER RT MARSHAM STREET A

LA WE i P AM A S SMITH P BR CI St T GREYCOAT PL CHADWICK ST

ASHLEY N H H R O D A GREYCOAT STREET John's Palace Westminster SDEN RI T A L R O E F E B Smith R Cathedral Y SQUARE KING B CARLISLEM PLACE A Square H O V E T RPETH EN R M E ’ O C MEDWAY STREET B S SCHOLARS PASSAGE ROMNEY UE A OW STREET A M D A LA L L K T P L T ALK A ERRACE H O R S E F E R R Y RO A D W D T Museum T TREE SAIL STREET EA NS ST JOHNS N R O H O N of Garden GARDENS TT W H T RY V JUXON ST T R VINCENTER LE ST History E Westminster PRA NCOA V B L FITZA A E Y E M CIS STREET EL STREET Hospital W EE ER N NS A

S LA IL R U PAGE STREET OLD PARADISE ST L N L O W G MA U FRA PAGE STREET STREET

EST RUTHERFORD ST T

R P LOLLARD STREET FYNES ST T X E E ET STREET L A C E E D E « WESTMINSTER REGENCY STREET TR A 184 T W HA O ILTON ROAD E SCHOOL PLAYING H S TR ROCH IG S R K T T L FIELDS W R N A V TH H HITG L I E IFT ST O « N C STREE T B P VE 16 ENT M A L 4 SQUARE W R LA E N AY BLACK PRINCE ROAD ST W W T R LAMBETH EET K B TH EE IC R JOHN ISLIP STREET E T RI ESTERBROOKE ST K Millbank B RW T A M DOUGLAS STREET Millennium Pier A ROADW N S N AL AM L ST DGE ROAD AN D HIDE PLACE S CA S R A E T OO E D Y MARYLEE PT B A WAY TA RLW M O FO HA Tate U HA R C HERRICK STREET L ALK ICK C C L EA CHURTON STREET H Britain K B W CAU L L STO 5 B A A ARW 2 R S N ERASMUS STREET TTER I D » N W OO N ARE BURY T CURE D T EET U O A R N A K S STREET M R Q E T N E K TR S BELGRAVE RD E

T B S S A B S JO N WAL N C TR PONSONBY PLACE ATH R G I T M AN O E TREET STR F T E T EET REE T IN HALL S DRIVE E W O T ET H S R O M S T R E E T T H R S E T T E UX S O PONSONBY TERR RE N T R E T D T S COURTENAY STREET Y TYERS STREET T R E E T R JOHN ISLIP STREET VA E A S E O P ON T N HALL S M M DENBIGH PLACE P M Pimlico X A TE A S L N A C R RUM GA « OROUG 8 VAUX

STR E SB H D KH ET AU TO ES B B T E T

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W BRIDGEFOOT E H U R GLASGO N R O T E

E R A S D O CLAVERTON STREET E OM GASHN CHICHESTER STREETD L A N N U A V ' CE E G S O PLAC A P L O PL AF A L P O F T N V O N GT OLD NR U Q S Vauxhall I E S ’ HX C N ER 350 L A « N E H s E H R CHURCHILL DURHAM ST A K D A IN Vauxhall W L GARDENS R A e «383 M L S R D HARLEYFORD ROAD YA O A m 5 R E « YO S E R T G A R D E N a A

AY L h KENNINGTON E

OAD T GROVE T R ROAD GROVE ND W E N N I N G SOUTH LAMBETH L K T G r VAUXHAL O N R R BO O O e WANDSWORTH ROAD V S O S L A

V N v A L E 21 L M N E ON i E PA « NNINGT RRY BO K R STR LANGLEY LANE «106 EET D E E E

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N HADRIAN STREET U ISLAND R RY A O S T A D GARDENS S W R POINTERSCLOSE G BY H O M N ID ITW AD ER C P L D AN NI A L O FERRY STREETACE N D EN R RTH

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A D D c CRANE STREET A R N i O S A P R D L A T H O O w Greenwich C W N R WI r E L e n Pier K Y OO R i v e W e D T U S K A R L S r 4 O T R W T E ST R E G 5 A O REET O G D R L L A Royal Naval N D S Cutty O A PA W R College F K G Sark A R O A D R n R Maze Hill E T E £ P A 2» N F E A M LO W R K T C S E K O M T A S M I T H IN V I S A

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T H C L A THAMES Z STREET G HORSEFERRY NORWAY ST STREET H E R S D C E E WILLIA PLACE K R O W R C Queen's P A H House

WELLAN 1 U W A G E S T O 2 Cutty Sark R M R O A D DLR C H W ROMNEY ROAD H I K S L R E E BARDSLEY T L C LANE R HADDO STREET GREENWICH E D E NELSON A T ROAD LK R E E T S S T A T RA T H S PE O M P RN H A National Maritime O St Alfege C RO 5 Museum 15 S T « C L T STOCKWELL ST A R O N E M T E E CE R ST LA T DA LL P S D NEVA A H E ROAN STREET T RAND U A Fan ID O T M GREENWICH Deptford Creek S EE Museum T O EKS N T R A H N T R AY G RE A VE I R S C W A R EY S T S C M S N CU Old Royal «61 R IR R

R C R R O Observatory BU E E Greenwich V £ 1 O ST O

O O Station E R T Y UC G M H 8 L H N G A IL EA PARK I GLO H ' L 'S H M S O

LANGDALE ROAD O 3 T CR E T V E E N 133 H C E STREET « E I R R H C C U S S T U PRIOR STREET

BRAND STREET E I I R

2 L W 86 «

« T L N GEORGETTE S GE AVENUE E H C A L B PLACE 5 H A M P L A C E I E S H B U R N EOR A H LUTON PL L R G L 5 T G E H K

D U L E V 5 DRIVE O N ASHBURNHAM GROVE L G I H T A S H O R O H IN E IR Y A S L H E H C V E 5 K Y O D R E G T D H E T I ST VA E A BOWER E D R R E M E S T O N IV C R N I N D RE N E T T O R I R T U N E S O ER E F R H I N A FIE E T W W C T V W E E A S E RO S E G I L S GENERAL WOLFE ROAD C B L I L RD N H V DL FO E T P T D R E O G IL E S T E A B U N I R D G N L EGERTO O O A

E N T T V AY A L S E W C N O R H E The Wernher

K E E R 116 D I V « T I H G L Collection at E IN A O W L EN A R L M

4 T DUTTO G Ranger's H AB E LA N T A D W E S R O A ESC NT C D D LYMOU L N House HOL O A LTO CR K R 2 B S E C E « L HA L S C 5 A 5 L H » I L C H O O K H D A T E H A T RTM E R

DITCH ALLEY E O U S ROAD EET TH TR W H S HILL I L L LONG N M O EN POND P S P A R T RDEN A N I H S ROAD JO T OW S R D A BEN E R RTM STREET O U E TH G HAR BLACKHEATH N H T RO SE CO TH VE CLO ET E T L D GOFFERS LDBATH ETHBR A N D G IDGE A CL OU A RO OSE O B VE I LLET M TM R R RO T P RDN L B O BROOKMILL CHA T A L A OR E 5 A C T DA N L C D E E STREETHIL SC T E M PARK CR A S O IS R R L I R B N E D R E L A E Y V N E W T NS B BO A L R U Y R IL RN C L H T O E PL R A O A U N O C S O S W E S DE E AD H ROAD K E E A OR ORCHARD ROAD R M T M IS RO E T W A Y A R I O 5 L AD A S ND R L O P T N Elverson Road CHA D R D TH R A PO N L U 1 DLR EA I THE ORCHARD B I L N L S L SO E H L R E I T TS T A K C ER C D C E E R T O ROSEWOOD H G O A LV E L D L D

E H N GARDENS LA R I CONINGTON ROAD ' I L MOUN R

W N B A O R S I E

G V AD T E T R N C O L O L V E RO L O L N I G I ELIOT PLACE A

A 15 R H O L R R M A A T K L E O L O 9 C V A L I O R D » A I D R E TE P A O S L O H A F D E ’ E D T S S P I A

W R K E L A B C D Index of Main Streets

Albert Embankment 15 G3 Curzon Street 8 D4 Kentish Town Road 2 D2 Red Lion Street 9 H1 Aldersgate 10 C2 Dean Street 9 F3 King’s Cross Road 3 H4 Regent Street 9 E3 Aldgate High Street 11 F3 Delancey Street 2 D3 King’s Road 14 B3 Regent’s Park Road 2 B2 Aldwych 9 H3 Downing Street 9 F5 Kingsland Road 5 E4 Rivington Street 5 E5 All Saints Road 6 D2 Downshire Hill 1 C5 Kingsway 9 H2 Rosebery Avenue 4 A5 Baker Street 8 B2 Draycott Avenue 14 A3 Knightsbridge 8 B5 Royal Hospital Road 14 B4 Basil Street 14 B1 Drury Lane 9 G3 Ladbroke Grove 6 D4 Rupert Street 9 F3 Bateman Street 9 F3 Earlham Street 9 F3 Road 15 H1 St Christopher’s Place 8 C2 Bayswater Road 7 F4 Earls Court Road 13 E2 Leadenhall Street 11 E3 St James’s Street 9 E4 Bayswater Road 8 A3 Eaton Square 14 C2 Leather Lane 10 A1 St James’s Square 9 E4 Beak Street 9 E3 Edgware Road 7 H1 Ledbury Road 6 D3 St John Street 4 A4 Beauchamp Place 14 A1 Endell Street 9 G2 Leicester Square 9 F4 St Martin’s Lane 9 F3 Bedford Street 9 G3 Essex Road 4 B2 Leonard Street 4 D5 St Martin’s Place 9 F4 Belgrave Road 15 E3 Euston Road 3 E5 Lexington Street 9 E3 St Paul’s Churchyard 10 B3 14 C1 Exhibition Road 13 H1 Lillie Road 13 E4 St Thomas Street 10 D5 Berkeley Square 8 D4 Exmouth Market 4 A5 Lincoln’s Inn Fields 9 H2 Savile Row 9 E3 Berwick Street 9 E3 Farringdon Road 10 A1 Lisle Street 9 F3 Sclater Street 5 F5 Bethnal Green Road 5 F5 Farringdon Street 10 B2 8 A1 Seymour Street 8 B3 Bishopsgate 11 E2 Fenchurch Street 11 E3 4 A3 Shaftesbury Avenue 9 F3 Blackfriars Road 10 B4 Fetter Lane 10 A2 Lombard Street 10 D3 Shelton Street 9 G3 Bloomsbury Square 9 G2 Fleet Street 10 A3 Long Acre 9 F3 Shepherd Market 8 D4 Bloomsbury Street 9 F2 Floral Street 9 G3 Maiden Lane 9 G3 Shepherd Street 8 D5 Borough High Street 10 C5 Foubert’s Place 9 E3 Mandeville Place 8 C2 Shoreditch High Street 5 E5 Bow Street 9 G3 Frith Street 9 F3 Marble Arch 8 B3 Shorts Gardens 9 G3 Brewer Street 9 E3 Fulham Palace Road 12 A4 Mare Street 5 H3 Sloane Avenue 14 A3 Brick Lane 11 F1 Fulham Road 13 G4 Marsham Street 15 F2 Sloane Square 14 B3 Broadway 15 F1 Gabriel’s Wharf 10 A4 Marylebone High Street 8 C1 Sloane Street 14 B2 Broadwick Street 9 E3 Garrick Street 9 G3 Marylebone Road 8 A1 Soho Square 9 F2 Brompton Road 14 A1 Gerrard Street 9 F3 Middlesex Street 11 E2 South Molton Street 8 D3 Buckingham Gate 15 E1 Gloucester Place 8 B2 Millbank 15 G3 Southampton Row 9 G1 Buckingham Palace Road 14 D3 Gloucester Road 13 G1 Monmouth Street 9 F3 Southampton Street 9 G3 Burlington Arcade 9 E4 Golborne Road 6 C2 Moorgate 10 D2 Road 10 C5 Caledonian Road 3 H2 Goodge Street 9 E2 Museum Street 9 G2 Southwark Street 10 C5 Cambridge Circus 9 F3 Goswell Road 4 B4 Neal Street 9 G3 Stamford Street 10 A4 Cambridge Heath Road 5 H3 Goulston Street 11 F2 Neal’s Yard 9 G3 Stockwell Street 16 B2 Camden High Street 2 D3 Gower Street 9 E1 Nelson Road 16 B2 Strand 9 G4 Camden Passage 4 B3 Gray’s Inn Road 3 G4 New Bond Street 8 D3 Sussex Gardens 7 H3 Camden Road 3 E1 Great Eastern Street 5 E5 New End 1 B4 Sydney Street 13 H3 Cannon Street 10 C3 Great Marlborough Street 9 E3 New Row 9 G3 Tabernacle Street 4 D5 Canonbury Road 4 B2 Great Portland Street 8 D1 Northumberland Avenue 9 G4 Talbot Road 6 D3 Carnaby Street 9 E3 Great Russell Street 9 F2 Notting Hill Gate 7 E4 Thayer Street 8 C2 Catton Street 9 G2 Greek Street 9 F3 Nottingham Place 8 C1 The Cut 10 A5 Cavendish Square 8 D2 Greenwich Church Street 16 B2 Oakley Street 14 A4 The Mall 9 F5 Caxton Street 15 E1 Greenwich High Road 16 A3 Old Brompton Road 13 G3 Theobald’s Road 9 G2 Cecil Court 9 F3 Grosvenor Place 14 C1 Old Castle Street 11 F2 Thurloe Place 13 H2 Chalk Farm Road 2 C1 Grosvenor Square 8 C3 Old Compton Street 9 F3 Tottenham Court Road 9 F2 Chancery Lane 10 A2 5 F4 Old Street 4 D5 Tower Bridge Road 11 E5 4 A3 Hampstead High Street 1 B5 Oxford Street 8 D3 Tower Hill 11 F3 Charing Cross Road 9 F3 Hampstead Road 3 E4 Paddington Street 8 C1 Trafalgar Square 9 F4 Charlotte Road 5 E5 Hans Crescent 14 B1 Pall Mall 9 E5 Union Street 10 C5 Charlotte Street 9 E2 Hanway Street 9 F2 Park Lane 8 C4 Upper Street 4 B1 Chelsea Bridge Road 14 C3 Harley Street 8 C1 Parkway 2 D3 Vauxhall Bridge Road 15 E2 Chelsea Embankment 14 A5 Harrow Road 7 E1 Parliament Square 15 G1 Victoria Embankment 9 G4 Cheshire Street 5 F5 Hatton Gardens 10 A1 Pavilion Road 14 B2 Victoria Street 15 E2 Church Street 7 H1 Haymarket 9 F4 Pelham Street 13 H2 Villiers Street 9 G4 City Road 4 B4 Heath Street 1 A4 Pembridge Road 7 E4 Walton Street 14 A2 Clerkenwell Green 10 A1 High Holborn 9 H2 Pentonville Road 3 H4 Wardour Street 9 E3 Clerkenwell Road 10 B1 Holborn 10 A2 Petticoat Lane 11 F2 Warwick Road 13 E3 Cleveland Street 8 D1 Horseferry Road 15 F2 Piccadilly 9 E4 Waterloo Road 9 H4 Columbia Road 5 F4 Houndsditch 11 E2 Piccadilly Circus 9 E4 Wellington Street 9 G3 Commercial Street 11 E1 Hoxton Square 5 E5 Pont Street 14 B2 Wentworth Street 11 F2 Conduit Street 8 D3 Hoxton Street 5 E4 Portland Place 8 D1 West Cromwell Road 12 D3 Covent Garden 9 G3 Islington High Street 4 A3 Portobello Road 6 C2 Westbourne Grove 7 E3 Coventry Street 9 F4 James Street 8 C3 Praed Street 7 H2 Westbourne Park Road 6 D2 Creechurch Lane 11 E3 Jermyn Street 9 E4 Prince Albert Road 2 B3 Whitechapel High Street 11 F2 Cromwell Gardens 13 H2 Kensington Church Street 7 E4 Queen Victoria Street 10 C3 Whitechapel Road 11 G2 Cromwell Road 13 F2 Kensington High Street 13 E1 Queen’s Walk 10 A4 Whitehall 9 G5 Cross Street 4 B2 Kensington Park Road 6 D3 Queensway 7 F3 Whitfield Street 9 E1 Curtain Road 5 E5 Kensington Road 13 G1 Rathbone Place 9 E2 Wigmore Street 8 C2

209 Index by Area

Rasa Samudra (p28) ££ Ceconni’s (p31) £££ Itsu (see p221) ££ Centre 5 Charlotte street (Map 9 E1) 5A Burlington Gdns (Map 9 E4) Japanese Indian Italian Restaurants Kaya (p33) ££ Lindsay House (p26) £££ Sardo (p29) ££ 42 Albemarle Street 21 Romily Street (Map 9 F3) Bloomsbury 45 Grafton Way (Map 9 E1) (Map 8 D4) British Italian Korean Busaba Eathai (see p222) ££ Mar i Terra (p24) £ Thai Holborn Kiku (p33) £££ 17 Air Street (Map 9 E3) 17 Half Moon St (Map 8 D4) Spanish Covent Garden Matsuri (p29) £££ Japanese 71 High Holborn (Map 9 H2) Masala Zone (see p221) £ Belgo (p43) ££ Japanese Mô (p34) £ Indian 50 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) 23 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) www.belgorestaurants.co.uk Marylebone North African Patisserie Valerie (p26) £ Belgian 44 Old Compton St La Galette (p36) £ Nobu (p34) £££ (Map 9 F3) Hazuki (p31) ££ 56 Paddington St (Map 8 C1) 19 Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) Café 43 Chandos Place (Map 9 G4) French Japanese Japanese Randall & Aubin (pp17 & 158) Golden Hind (p34) £ (p33) ££ 14–16 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) The Ivy (p34) £££ 73 Marylebone La (Map 8 C2) 3 & 7 Maddox St (Map 8 D3) Seafood 1 West Street (Map 9 F3) British Thai European Red Fort (p27) £££ Locanda Locatelli (p34) £££ Sketch (p34) £££ 77 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) J Sheekey (p31) £££ 8 Seymour Street (Map 8 B3) 9 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) Indian 28–32 St Martin’s Court Italian European (Map 9 F3) Wagamama (see p221) £ British Original Tagines (p36) ££ (p33) £££ Japanese 7A Dorset Street (Map 8 B2) 20 Queen Street (Map 8 D4) Paul (p29) £ African Indian Wong Kei (p25) £ 20 Bedford Street (Map 9 G3) 41–3 Wardour St (Map 9 E3) Café The Orrery (p35) £££ The Wolseley (p32) £££ Chinese 55 Marylebone High St 160 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Rock & Sole Plaice (p29) £ (Map 8 C1) European Westminster & Pimlico 47 Endell Street (Map 9 G3) European British Soho Cinnamon Club (p37) £££ Patogh (p37) £ Old Westminster Library Rules (p30) £££ 8 Crawford Place (Map 8 A2) Andrew Edmunds (p24) ££ Great Smith Street (Map 15 F1) 35 Maiden Lane (Map 9 G3) Middle Eastern 46 Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) Indian British European Palace (p36) £ Shopping Thyme (p25) £££ 3–5 Glentworth St (Map 8 B1) Bar Italia (pp19 & 158) £ The Hospital, Endell St, WC2 Chinese 22 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Bloomsbury (Map 9 G2) Café Modern European The Providores & Contemporary Wardrobe (p63) Tapa Room (p35) £££ Bodean’s (p24) ££ The Horse Hospital Fitzrovia 109 Marylebone High St 10 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Colonnade (Map 9 G1) (Map 8 C1) North American Fashion Eagle Bar Diner (p27) £ International 3–5 Rathbone Place (Map 9 F2) Busaba Eathai (see p222) ££ James Smith & Sons (p63) North American Mayfair & St James’s Thai 53 New Oxford St (Map 9 G2) Shoes & Accessories Fino (p28) ££ Al Sultan (p34) ££ Café Emm (p25) £ 33 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) 51–2 Hertford St (Map 8 C5) 17 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Covent Garden Spanish Middle Eastern International Agnès B (p60) Hakkasan (p27) £££ Al Waha (p43) ££ Donzoko (p24) £ Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 8 Hanway Place (Map 9 F2) 75 Westbourne Grove (Map 7 E3) 15 Kingly Street (Map 9 E3) Fashion Chinese Middle Eastern Japanese Any Amount of Books (p65) Navarro’s (p28) £ Le Caprice (p31) £££ ECapital (p25) £ 56 Charing Cross Road 67 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E1) Arlington Street (Map 9 E4) 8 Gerrard Street (Map 9 F3) (Map 9 F3) Spanish European Chinese Books

210 Click through to restaurant websites across London with www.elondon.dk.com Centre aQuaint (p61) Maharishi (p60) Fitzrovia Paul Rothe (p73) 38 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 19a Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 35 Marylebone Lane (Map 8 C2) Fashion Fashion FCUK (p85) Food 396 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Aram (p60) Marchpane (p64) Fashion Selfridges (p71) 110 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) 400 Oxford Street (Map 8 C3) Interiors Books Topshop (p68) Department Store Oxford Circus (Map 9 D2) Blackwell’s (p65) Neal’s Yard Dairy (p62) Fashion Sixty 6 (p73) 100 Charing Cross Road 17 Shorts Gardens (Map 9 G3) 66 Marylebone High St (Map 9 F3) Food Marylebone (Map 8 C1) Books Fashion Nigel Williams (p64) Anello & Davide (p72) Borders (p65) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) 20–21 St Christoper’s Place Skandium (p74) Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Books (Map 8 C3) 86–7 Marylebone High St Books Shoes & Accessories (Map 8 C1) Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) Interiors Burro (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Calmia (p73) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion 52–4 Marylebone High St Whistles (p72) Fashion (Map 8 C1) 12 St Christopher’s Place PJ Hilton (p64) Health & Beauty (Map 8 C3) Camper (p60) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Fashion Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Books Carluccio’s (p72) Mayfair & St James’s Fashion St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Poste Mistress (p61) Food b Store (p67) Coco de Mer (p61) 261–3 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 6 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) 23 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Shoes & Accessories Daunt Books (p74) Shoes & Accessories Lingerie 83 Marylebone High St (8 C1) Ray’s Jazz (p65) Books Browns (p70) Diesel StyleLab (p60) Foyles Bookshop, Charing 23–7 South Molton Street Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Cross Road (Map 9 F3) La Fromagerie (p74) (Map 8 D3) Fashion Music 2–4 Moxton Street (Map 8 C2) Fashion Food Eatmyhandbagbitch (p64) Shipley (p65) Fenwick (p79) 37 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) 70 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) John Lewis (p79) 63 New Bond Street (Map 8 D3) Interiors Books 278–306 Oxford St (Map 8 D3) www.fenwick.co.uk www.johnlewis.com Department Store Forbidden Planet (p63) Shipley Media (p65) Department Store 179 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F2) 80 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Fortnum & Mason (p79) Books Books Madeleine Press (p74) 181 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) 90 Marylebone High St www.fortnumandmason.com Foyles (p65) Size? (p62) (Map 8 C1) Department Store Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) 17–19 Neal Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion Books Fashion Georgina Goodman (p69) Margaret Howell (p72) 12–14 Shepherd St (Map 8 D5) Gay’s the Word (p64) Stage Door Prints (p64) 34 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Shoes & Accessories 66 Marchmont St (Map 3 G5) 9 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Fashion Books Prints & Posters Jigsaw (p85) Marimekko (p72) 126 New Bond St (Map 8 D3) Kiehl’s (p61) Storey’s (p64) 16–17 St Christopher’s Place Fashion 29 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 3 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) (Map 8 C3) Health & Beauty Prints & Posters Interiors Karen Millen (p85) 262–4 Regent St (Map 8 D3) Kirk Originals (p60) The Tintin Shop (p60) Mint (p73) Fashion 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 34 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 70 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Shoes & Accessories Prints & Posters Interiors N Peal (p70) 37 & 71 Burlington Arcade Koh Samui (p61) Vertigo (p60) Mulberry (p72) (Map 9 E4) 65–7 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 22 Wellington St (Map 9 G3) 11–12 Gees Court (Map 8 C3) Fashion Fashion Prints & Posters Fashion Oki-ni (p68) Magma (p62) The Wild Bunch (p62) Osprey (p72) 25 Savile Row (Map 9 E3) 8 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Fashion Books Florist Shoes & Accessories

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 211 Index by Area

The World According To… (p66) Sir John Soane’s Museum (p97) Westminster Abbey (p96) Centre 4 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields Broad Sanctuary (Map 15 F1) Fashion (Map 9 H2) Shopping continued Performance Vintage (p66) Temple Church (p98) 39–43 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) Inner Temple, Fleet St Bloomsbury Poste (p70) Prints & Posters (Map 10 A3) 10 South Molton St (Map 8 D3) The Place (p122) Shoes & Accessories Art & Architecture Marylebone 17 Duke’s Road (Map 3 F5) Dance Venue Prestat (p75) Bloomsbury Lisson (p110) 14 Princes Arcade (Map 9 E4) 52–4 Bell St (Map 8 A1) Scala (p126) Food British Museum (p13) Art Gallery 275 Pentonville Rd (Map 3 H4) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Music Venue REN (p69) The Wallace Collection (p101) 19 Shepherd Market (Map 8 D4) Gagosian (p110) Manchester Square (Map 8 C2) Covent Garden Health & Beauty www.gagosian.com Museum 6–24 Britannia St (Map 3 G4) 12 Bar Club (p119) Stella McCartney (p70) Art Gallery Mayfair & St James’s 22–3 Denmark St (Map 9 F2) 30 Bruton Street (Map 8 D4) Music Venue Fashion Great Court & Reading Room, Gagosian (p110) British Museum (p98) www.gagosian.com Arts Theatre (p119) Soho Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) 8 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Great Newport St (Map 9 F3) Modern Architecture Art Gallery Theatre Agent Provocateur (p67) 6 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Covent Garden Sackler Wing, RA (p100) Donmar Warehouse (p118) Lingerie Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) 41 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) National Gallery Art Gallery Theatre The Dispensary (p68) (See Sainsbury Wing) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Sadie Coles HQ (p110) ENO @ The Coliseum (p119) Fashion National Portrait Gallery (p96) 35 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) St Martin’s Lane (Map 9 G4) St Martin’s Place (Map 9 F4) Art Gallery Concert Hall Gerry’s (p66) 74 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Photographers’ Gallery (p95) St James’s Piccadilly (p100) Royal Opera House (p118) Wines & Spirits 5 & 8 Great Newport Street 197 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Bow Street (Map 9 G3) (Map 9 F3) Concert Hall Jess James (p68) Art Gallery Stephen Friedman (p110) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Old Burlington St (Map 9 E4) Marylebone Shoes & Accessories Sainsbury Wing, Art Gallery National Gallery (p95) Wigmore Hall (p122) Kokon To-Zai (p66) Trafalgar Square (Map 9 F4) Westminster & Pimlico 36 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) 57 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Museum Concert Hall Fashion Banqueting House (p99) Somerset House (p94) Whitehall (Map 9 G5) Soho Liberty (p68) Strand (Map 9 H3) Historic Building 210–20 Regent Street Museum Borderline (p119) (Map 8 D3) Buckingham Palace (p96) Orange Yard, Manette St (9 F3) Department Store Theatre Museum (p95) Buckingham Gate (Map 14 D1) Music Venue Russell Street (Map 9 G3) Historic Building Marks & Spencer (p85) Comedy Store (p121) 458 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Fitzrovia ICA (p96) 1a Oxendon Street (Map 9 F4) Department Store The Mall (Map 9 F5) Comedy Club RIBA (p97) Phonica (p67) 66 Portland Place (Map 8 D1) Queens Gallery (p96) Curzon Soho (p120) 51 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Modern Architecture Buckingham Palace Road 99 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) Music (Map 14 D1) Cinema Holborn Museum RedDot (p68) Mean Fiddler (p120) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Dr Johnson’s House (p98) St Margaret’s Church (p99) 168 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Fashion 17 Gough Square (Map 10 A2) Sanctuary (Map 15 G1) Music Venue

Scent Systems (p68) St Bride’s (p100) Tate Britain (p99) Prince Charles Cinema (p121) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) Millbank (Map 15 G3) 7 Leicester Place (Map 9 F3) Health & Beauty www.stbrides.com Museum Cinema

212 www.elondon.dk.com Centre – West

Ronnie Scott’s (p121) Escape Bar (p158) Holborn Westminster & Pimlico 47 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) 10a Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Music Venue Bar Temple (p168) City Inn Off Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) Westminster (p184) ££ Soho Theatre (p120) French House (p139) 30 John Islip Street (Map 15 F3) 21 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) 49 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Havens: Spas & Pub Treatments Dover Hotel (p183) £ Westminster & Pimlico 42–4 Belgrave Rd (Map 15 E3) G-A-Y (p158) Mayfair & St James’s St John’s Smith Square (p122) 30 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Smith Square (Map 15 G2) Bar/Club Elemis Day Spa (p169) West Concert Hall 2–3 Lancashire Ct Madame Jo-Jos (p138) (Map 8 D3) Restaurants Pubs, Bars & Clubs 8–10 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Club Farmacia (p168) Bayswater & Paddington Bloomsbury Selfridges, 4th Floor, Pillars of Hercules (p144) 400 Oxford Street Magic Wok (p43) £ Lamb (p141) 7 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) (Map 8 c3) 61 Queensway (Map 7 F3) 94 Lamb’s Conduit St (9 H1) Pub Chinese Pub Hotels The Player (p139) Maroush Gardens (p36) ££ Covent Garden 8 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Bloomsbury 1–3 Connaught St (Map 8 A3) Bar Middle Eastern The American Bar (p137) Crescent Hotel (p181) £ Savoy Hotel, Strand (Map 9 G4) Fitzrovia 49–50 Cartwright Satay House (p43) £ Bar Gardens (Map 3 F5) 13 Sale Place (Map 7 H2) Fitzroy Tavern (p144) Malaysian The End (p141) 16 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Generator (p181) £ 18 West Central St (Map 9 G2) Pub Compton Place (Map 3 G5) Chelsea & Fulham Bar Jerusalem (p139) Covent Garden Chutney Mary (p40) £££ Gordon’s Wine Bar (p136) 33–4 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 E2) 535 King’s Rd (Map 13 G5) 47 Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Bar Covent Garden Hotel £££ Indian Bar (p180) Market Place (p140) 10 Monm0uth St (Map 9 F3) Gordon Ramsay (p34) £££ Heaven (p136) 11 Market Place (Map 9 E2) 68–9 Royal Hospital Road Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Bar One Aldwych (p180) £££ (Map 14 B4) Club 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) European Mash (p140) Lamb & Flag (p137) 19–21 Great Portland Street Fitzrovia Lots Road Pub & ££ 33 Rose Street (Map 9 G3) (Map 8 D2) Pub Bar £££ Dining Room (p40) (p181) 114 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) Lobby Bar (p136) The Social (p140) 15 Charlotte Street Gastropub 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) 5 Little Portland St (Map 8 D2) (Map 9 E2) Bar Bar The Painted Heron (p40) ££ Marylebone 112 Cheyne Walk (Map 13 H5) Soho Mayfair & St James’s Indian Dorset Square (p183) £££ Atlantic Bar & Grill (p137) Zeta Bar (p140) 39 Dorset Square Tom Aikens (p39) £££ 20 Glasshouse St (Map 9 E4) Mayfair Hilton Hotel, (Map 8 B1) 43 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) Bar 35 Hertford Street European (Map 8 C5) Durrants (p182) ££ Bar Rumba (p138) Bar George Street (Map 8 B2) Tendido Cero (p40) ££ 36 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) 174 Old Brompton Rd Bar Havens: Parks & Mayfair & St James’s (Map 13 G3) Gardens Spanish Coach & Horses (p144) The Metropolitan (p182) £££ 29 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Covent Garden Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) Hammersmith Pub Victoria Embankment Soho The Gate (p41) ££ The Endurance (p138) Gardens (p168) 51 Queen Charlotte Street 90 Berwick Street (Map 9 E3) Victoria Embankment & Hazlitt’s (p181) £££ (Map 12 A3) Pub Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) 6 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Vegetarian

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 213 Index by Area

S&M Café (p42) £ Harvey Nichols (p79) The Cross (p85) West 268 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) 109–25 Knightsbridge (14 B1) 141 Portland Road (Map 6 C4) Café www.harveynichols.com Fashion Restaurants continued Department Store The Westbourne (p160) ££ Duchamp (p82) 101 Westbourne Pk Villas (7 E2) Jo Malone (p75) 75 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) The River Café (p41) £££ Gastropub 150 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) Fashion Rainville Road (Map 12 A5) Health & Beauty Italian Shopping Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) Lulu Guinness (p77) 4 & 10 Elgin Crescent Kensington & Earl’s Court Chelsea & Fulham 3 Ellis Street (Map 14 B2) (Map 6 C3) Shoes & Accessories Interiors Orangery (p170) ££ Antiquarius (p80) Kensington Gardens (Map 7 F5) 131–41 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) Maria Grachvogel (p75) Honest Jon’s (p83) Café Vintage Furniture 162 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) 278 Portobello Rd Fashion (Map 6 D3) Knightsbridge & The Conran Shop (p78) Music Belgravia 81 Fulham Road (Map 14 A2) Neisha Crosland (p77) Interiors 8 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) Intoxica! (p83) Foliage (p37) £££ Interiors 231 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) Mandarin Oriental, Designers Guild (p80) Music 66 Knightsbridge (Map 8 B5) 267 & 277 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) Patrick Cox (p75) European Interiors 129 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) J&M Davidson (p81) Shoes & Accessories 42 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Hunan (p38) ££ Jimmy Choo (p77) Fashion 51 Pimlico Road (Map 14 C3) 169 Draycott Ave (Map 14 A3) Philip Treacy (p76) Chinese Shoes & Accessories 69 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) JW Beeton (p82) Shoes & Accessories 48–50 Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) Noura (p38) ££ Joseph (p77) Fashion 16 Hobart Place (Map 14 D1) 77 Fulham Road (Map 13 H3) Poilane (p76) Middle Eastern Fashion 46 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Marilyn Moore (p84) Food 7 Elgin Crescent (Map 6 C3) Racine (p39) ££ Kate Kuba (p79) Fashion 239 Brompton Rd (Map 14 A2) 22 Duke of York Square (14 B3) Les Senteurs (p76) French Shoes & Accessories 71 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) Miller Harris (p81) Health & Beauty 14 Needham Road (Map 7 E3) Zafferano (p39) £££ K0rres (p79) Health & Beauty 15 Lowndes Street (Map 14 B1) 124 King’s Road (Map 14 A3) Tracey Boyd (p76) Italian Health & Beauty 42 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) Fashion 120 & 122 Kensington Park Zuma (p38) £££ Oliver Sweeney (p79) Road (Map 6 D4) 5 Raphael Street (Map 14 A1) 29 King’s Road (Map 14 B3) Woodhams (p76) Fashion Japanese Shoes & Accessories 45 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Florist Portobello Market (p159) Notting Hill & Knightsbridge & Map 6 D3 Westbourne Park Belgravia Notting Hill & Market Westbourne Park E&O (p42) ££ Anya Hindmarch (p76) Preen (p83) 14 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) 15–17 Pont Street (Map 14 B2) 202 (p80) Unit 5 Portobello Green Oriental Shoes & Accessories 202 Westbourne Gro (Map 7 F3) (Map 6 C2) Fashion Fashion Lisboa Patisserie (p42) £ The Chocolate Society (p76) 57 Golborne Road (Map 6 C2) 36 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Bill Amberg (p81) Rellik (p85) Café Food 10 Chepstow Road (Map 7 E2) 8 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) Shoes & Accessories Fashion Lonsdale (p143) ££ Erickson Beamon (p76) 44–8 Lonsdale Road 38 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Blenheim Books (p159) Rough Trade (p81) (Map 6 D3) Shoes & Accessories 11 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) 130 Talbot Road Gastropub Books (Map 6 D3) Harrods (p79) Music Rosa’s (p160) ££ 87–135 Brompton Road Coco Ribbon (p84) 69 Westbourne Park Road (Map 14 B1) 21 Kensington Park Road Simon Finch Rare Books (p82) (Map 7 E2) www.harrods.com (Map 6 C3) 61a Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) European Department Store Fashion Books

214 Looking for shops near you? Link up via www.elondon.dk.com West – City & East

Space.NK (p80) Bar Notting Hill & 127–31 Westbourne Gr (7 F3) Notting Hill & Lonsdale (p143) Westbourne Park Health & Beauty Westbourne Park 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) Bar Miller’s Residence (p186) ££ Tonic (p82) Electric Cinema (p123) 111a Westbourne Gr (Map 7 E3) 276 Portobello Road (6 C2) 191 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) Notting Hill Arts Club (p144) Fashion 21 Notting Hill Gate (Map 7 E4) The Portobello (p186) ££ Shepherd’s Bush Club 22 Stanley Gardens (Map 6 D3) Travel Bookshop (p159) 13–15 Blenheim Cres (6 C3) Shepherd’s Bush Empire (p123) Trailer H (p143) Books Shepherd’s Bush Green 177 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) City & East (Map 6 A5) Bar Willma (p84) Music Venue Restaurants 339 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) Havens: Parks & Shoes & Accessories Pubs, Bars & Clubs Gardens The City Art & Architecture Bayswater & Paddington Chelsea & Fulham Club Gascon (p47) £££ 57 West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) Kensington Cherry Jam (p141) Chelsea Physic Garden (p171) French 58 Porchester Road (Map 7 F2) Swan Walk (Map 14 B4) Brompton Cemetery (p105) Bar Smiths of Smithfield ££/£££ Lillie Road (Map 13 E4) Kensington (p45) Chelsea & Fulham 67–77 Charterhouse St Brompton Oratory (p101) Holland Park (p170) (Map 10 B2) Brompton Road (Map 14 A2) Apartment 195 (p142) Map 6 D5 European Church 195 King’s Road (Map 14 A4) Bar Havens: Spas & Sutton Arms (p45) ££ Kensington Palace (p96) Treatments 6 Carthusian St (Map 10 B1) Palace Avenue (Map 7 F5) Hammersmith Gastropub Bayswater & Paddington Leighton House Museum (p103) Blue Anchor (p154) Clerkenwell 12 Holland Park Rd (Map 12 D1) 13 Lower Mall (1 Hammersmith) Porchester Spa (p170) Pub Queensway (Map 7 F3) Fish Central (p45) £ Linley Sambourne House (p102) 149–51 Central St (Map 4 C5) 18 Stafford Terrace (Map 13 E1) The Dove (p154) Hotels British Historic Building 19 Upper Mall (1 Hammersmith) Pub Bayswater & Paddington Flâneur Food Hall (p45) ££ Natural History Museum (p102) 41 Farringdon Rd (Map 10 A1) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Kensington The Colonnade (p185) ££ European 2 Warrington Cres (Map 7 F1) Science Museum (p102) Windsor Castle (p144) Moro (p44) ££ Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) 114 Campden Hill Rd (Map 7 E5) Chelsea & Fulham 34–6 Exmouth Mkt (Map 4 A5) Pub Spanish/North African Serpentine Gallery (p101) Blakes (p185) £££ Kensington Gdns (Map 7 H5) Knightsbridge & 33 Roland Gdns (Map 13 G3) St John (p46) £££ Art Gallery Belgravia 26 St John Street (Map 4 B5) Five Sumner Place (p184) ££ British V&A (p102) Blue Bar, Berkeley Hotel (p142) 5 Sumner Place (Map 13 H3) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Wilton Place (Map 14 B1) Strada (p43) ££ Museum Bar Kensington 8–10 Exmouth Market, www.strada.co.uk (Map 4 A5) Performance Nag’s Head (p141) Abbey House (p186) £ Italian 53 Kinnerton St (Map 14 B1) 11 Vicarage Gate (Map 7 E5) Chelsea & Fulham Pub Hackney Mayflower (p184) £ 606 Club (p123) Townhouse (p142) 26–8 Trebovir Rd (Map 13 E3) Green Papaya (p48) £ 90 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) 31 Beauchamp Pl (Map 14 A1) 191 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) Music Venue Bar Knightsbridge & Vietnamese Belgravia Hammersmith Notting Hill & Shoreditch & Hoxton Westbourne Park The Franklin (p184) £££ Riverside Studios (p124) 28 Egerton Gdns (Map 14 A2) Cantaloupe (p47) ££ Crisp Road (Map 12 A4) Golborne Grove (p143) 35 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Arts Centre 36 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) Topham Belgravia (p183) ££ Mediterranean

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 215 Index by Area

Hoxton Boutique (p86) Vilma Gold (p15) Museum in Docklands (p106) City & East 2 Hoxton Street (Map 5 E5) 25b Vyner Street (Map 5 H3) West India Quay, www.museum Fashion Art Gallery indocklands.org.uk (£ West Restaurants continued India Quay / 1 Canary Wharf) Lara Bohinc 107 (p86) Wilkinson Gallery (p110) 51 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) 242 Cambridge Heath Road Performance Fifteen (p34) £££ Shoes & Accessories Art Gallery 15 Westland Place (Map 4 C4) The City European Smallfish Records (p87) The City 329 Old Street (Map 11 F1) Barbican (p124) Great Eastern Music St Bartholomew Silk Street (Map 10 C1) Dining Room (p48) ££ the Great (p103) Arts Centre 54 Great Eastern St (Map 5 E5) Spitalfields & West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) Oriental Whitechapel Hackney St Mary-le-Bow (p100) The Real Greek (p48) ££ A Gold (p87) Cheapside (Map 10 C3) Hackney Empire (p125) 14 Hoxton Market (Map 5 E5) 42 Brushfield St (Map 11 E1) Mare Street (Map 5 H1) Greek Food St Paul’s Cathedral (p100) Theatre www.stpauls.co.uk (Map 10 B3) Rivington Bar and Grill (p162) Artcadia (p87) Ocean (p125) 28–30 Rivington St (Map 5 E5) 108 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) St Stephen Walbrook (p100) 270 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) European Prints & Posters Walbrook (Map 10 D3) Music Venue

Viet Hoa (p48) £ Brick Lane Market (p160) Tower of London (p96) Shoreditch & Hoxton 70–72 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) Map 5 F5 Tower Hill (Map 11 F4) Vietnamese Comedy Café (p125) Cheshire Street Market (p88) Clerkenwell 66–8 Rivington St (Map 5 E5) Spitalfields & Map 11 F1 Whitechapel Museum of the Order of Spitalfields & Labour and Wait (p88) St John (p104) Whitechapel Arkansas Café (p161) £ 18 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) St John’s Gate (Map 10 B1) Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) Vintage Furniture The Spitz (p124) North American Shoreditch & Hoxton Old Spitalfields Market Rokit (p88) (Map 11 F1) Beigel Bake (p19) £ 101 & 107 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) The Agency (p110) Music Venue 159 Brick Lane (Map 5 F5) Fashion Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Café Art Gallery Pubs, Bars & Clubs Spitalfields Market (p161) Café Spice Namaste (p46) ££ Map 11 F1 Geffrye Museum (p105) The City 16 Prescot Street (Map 11 F3) Kingsland Road (Map 5 E4) Indian Story (p87) Black Friar (p144) 4 Wilkes Street (Map 11 F1) White Cube (p110) 174 Queen Victoria Street Market Coffee House (p161) Interiors Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) (Map 10 B3) Brushfield Street (Map 11 E1) Art Gallery Pub Café Tatty Devine (p88) 236 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Spitalfields & Vertigo (p145) Shopping Shoes & Accessories Whitechapel Level 42, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St (Map 10 D2) Clerkenwell Art & Architecture Dennis Severs’ House (p104) Bar 18 Folgate Street (Map 11 E1) Saloon (p86) Bethnal Green Historic Building Clerkenwell 23 Arlington Way (Map 4 A4) The Approach (p110) 19 Princelet Street (p103) Café Kick (p145) Fashion Approach Rd (1 Bethnal Green) Spitalfields (Map 11 F1) 43 Exmouth Market (Map 4 A5) Art Gallery Historic Building Bar Shoreditch & Hoxton Chisenhale (p110) Whitechapel Gallery (p104 ) Fabric (p145) ARTWORDS (p162) Chisenhale Rd (1 Bethnal Gr) 80 Whitechapel High St (11 F2) 77a Charterhouse St 65 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) Art Gallery (Map 10 B1) www.artwords.co.uk Wapping & Docklands Club Books Matt’s Gallery (p110) 42–4 Copperfield Road Wapping Project Space (p105) Fluid (p146) Columbia Road Market (p161) (1 Mile End) Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) 40 Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) Map 5 F4 Art Gallery Art Gallery Bar

216 www.elondon.dk.com City & East – North

Caroline Carrier’s (p90) Jerusalem Tavern (p146) Golden Hart (p149) Hampstead 55 Britton Street (Map 10 B1) 110 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) Pierrepont Arcade Pub Pub Giraffe (see p221) ££ Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) International Interiors Turnmills (p146) Pride of Spitalfields (p148) 63a Clerkenwell Rd (Map 10 B1) 3 Heneage Street (Map 11 F1) The Wells (p51) ££/£££ Comfort & Joy (p88) Club Pub 30 Well Walk (Map 1 B4) 109 Essex Road (Map 4 B3) Gastropub Fashion Vibe Bar (p148) Hackney Judith Lasalle (p90) Old Truman Brewery, Islington Royal Inn on the Park (p153) 91–5 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Pierrepont Arcade Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Grove Road (1 Bethnal Green) Bar The Drapers Arms (p49) ££ Pub 44 Barnsbury St (Map 4 A2) Vintage Furniture Gastropub Wapping & Docklands Labour of Love (p89) Shoreditch & Hoxton The Grapes (p149) Gallipoli (p49) £ 193 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Fashion 333/Mother (p147) 76 Narrow Street (1 Wapping) 102 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) Pub Turkish Club Origin (p90) Prospect of Whitby (p149) The House (p49) ££ Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Interiors Bar Kick (p162) 57 Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) 63–9 Canonbury Rd (Map 4 B1) 127 Shoreditch High Street Pub Gastropub (Map 5 E5) Rock Archive (p90) Bar Masala Zone (see p221) £ 110 Islington High St (Map 4 A3) Hotels Prints & Posters The Bricklayer’s Arms (p162) The City Kilburn 63 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Scorah Pattullo (p89) Pub Great Eastern (p187) £££ Kovolam (p52) £ 137 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Fashion Liverpool Street (Map 11 E2) 12 Willesden Lane (1 Kilburn) Cargo (p146) Indian 83 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) Clerkenwell twentytwentyone (p89) Bar/Club Primrose Hill 274 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Malmaison (p187) ££ Interiors Elbow Room (p162) Charterhouse Sq (Map 10 B1) The Lansdowne (p51) ££ 97–113 Curtain Rd (Map 5 E5) 90 Gloucester Ave (Map 2 C2) Primrose Hill Bar The Rookery (p188) £££ Gastropub Peter’s Lane, Cowcross Street Anna (p90) Herbal (p147) (Map 10 B1) Manna (p51) ££ 126 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) 10–14 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) 4 Erskine Road (Map 2 B2) Fashion Club The Zetter (p188) ££ Vegetarian 86 Clerkenwell Rd (Map 10 B1) Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen Odette’s (p50) £££ 164 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) (p147) 130 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Interiors 2–4 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) North European Bar Primrose Hill Books (p90) Restaurants Shopping Regent’s Park Road (Map 2 B2) Loungelover (p149) Books 1 Whitby Street (Map 5 F5) Camden Islington Bar Rachel Skinner (p90) Café Corfu (p50) ££ After Noah (p89) 13 Princess Road (Map 2 B2) Pool (p161) 7 Pratt Street (Map 3 E2) 121 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Shoes & Accessories 104–8 Curtain Road (Map 5 E5) Greek Vintage Furniture Bar Studio Perfumery (p90) Lock Tavern (p152) ££ Annie’s Vintage Clothes (p90) 170 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Zigfrid (p162) 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Health & Beauty 11 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Gastropub Fashion Bar Art & Architecture Mango Room (p51) ££ Aria (p89) Spitalfields & 10 Kentish Town Rd (Map 2 D1) 295–6 & 133 Upper Street Hampstead Whitechapel Caribbean (Map 4 B2) Interiors Camden Arts Centre (p106) 93 Feet East (p148) El Parador (p50) £ Arkwright Rd 150 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) 245 Eversholt St (Map 3 E4) Camden Lock Market (p163) (1 Finchley Rd) Club Spanish Map 2 D2 Art Gallery

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 217 Index by Area

Camden Jongleurs (p128) Islington Battersea Chalk Farm Road Fenton House (p107) (Map 2 D2) Crown Islington (p151) Ransome’s Dock (p55) ££ Windmill Hill (Map 1 A4) Comedy Club 116 Cloudesley Rd Parkgate Road Historic Building (Map 4 A3) (1 Clapham Common) Hampstead Pub Modern European Freud Museum (p108) 20 Maresfield Gardens Everyman (p128) Embassy Bar (p150) Clapham (1 Finchley Road) 5 Holly Bush Vale (Map 1 A5) 119 Essex Road Cinema (Map 4 B2) Le Petit Max (p55) ££ Keats House (p108) Bar Riverside Plaza, Chatfield Road Keats Grove Islington (£ Clapham Junction) (Map 1 C5) Island Queen (p151) French Museum Almeida (p126) 87 Noel Road (Map 4 B3) Almeida Street (Map 4 B2) Pub Tsunami (p54) £££ Kenwood House (p108) Theatre 5 Voltaire Rd (1 Clapham North) Hampstead Heath Medicine Bar (p150) Japanese (Map 1 C1) King’s Head Theatre Bar (p127) 181 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Museum 115 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Bar Putney Theatre 2 Willow Road (p107) Havens: Parks & Putney Bridge (p55) £££ Hampstead (Map 1 c4) Sadler’s Wells (p126) Gardens 2 Lwr Richmond Rd (1 Putney) Modern Architecture Rosebery Avenue (Map 4 A4) French Dance Venue Hampstead Highgate South Bank Union Chapel (p127) Hampstead Heath (p172) Highgate Cemetery (p105) Compton Avenue (Map 4 B1) Hampstead (Map 1 C2) Livebait (p53) £££ Swain’s Lane (1 Highgate) Music Venue 41–5 The Cut (Map 10 A5) http://highgate-cemetery.org Highgate British Cemetery Kilburn Highgate Woods (p173) Masters Super Fish (p53) £ Islington Tricycle (p129) (1 Highgate) 191 Waterloo Road (Map 10 A5) 269 Kilburn High Rd (1 Kilburn) British Estorick Collection (p106) Arts Centre Hotels 39 Canonbury Sq (Map 4 B1) Mesón Don Felipe (p53) £ Museum Swiss Cottage Hampstead 53 The Cut (Map 10 A5) Spanish Kensal Green Hampstead Theatre (p128) La Gaffe (p188) £ Eton Avenue (1 Swiss Cottage) 107–11 Heath Street Oxo Tower Restaurant, Kensal Green Cemetery (p105) (Map 1 A4) Bar & Brasserie (p54) £££ (1 Kensal Green) Pubs, Bars & Clubs Barge House St (Map 10 A4) www.kensalgreen.co.uk European Cemetery Camden South Tas (p53) ££ St John’s Wood Lock Tavern (p152) Restaurants 33 The Cut (Map 10 A5) 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) Turkish Lord’s (p107) Bar Borough Wellington Road Wandsworth (1 St John’s Wood) Mac Bar (p152) Blueprint Café (p52) ££ Modern Architecture 102 Camden Road (Map 3 E2) Shad Thames Chez Bruce (p55) ££ Bar (Map 11 F5) 2 Bellevue Rd Stoke Newington European (1 Wandsworth) Pineapple (p151) Modern European Abney Park Cemetery (p173) 51 Leverton Street (1 Camden) Cantina Vinopolis (p163) ££ Stoke Newington Church Street Pub 1 Bank End (Map 10 C4) Shopping (£ Stoke Newington or 73 bus) Hampstead European Borough Performance Freemason’s Arms (p153) Champor-Champor (p52) ££ 32 Downshire Hill (Map 1 C5) 62 Weston Street (Map 10 D5) Borough Market (p163) Camden Pub Malaysian Map 10 D4 Clapham Jazz Café (p127) Spaniards Inn (p153) Fish! (p163) ££ 5 Parkway (Map 2 D3) Spaniards Road (Map 1 B2) Cathedral Street (Map 10 D4) Northcote Road Market (p165) Music Venue Pub Seafood £ Clapham Junction

218 Connect up with other parts of town via www.elondon.dk.com North – South

South Bank Hampton Court Pubs, Bars & Clubs Greenwich & Deptford Calder Bookshop (p91) Hampton Court Palace (p96) Borough Greenwich Union (p155) 51 The Cut (Map 10 A5) £ Hampton Court 56 Royal Hill (Map 16 B3) Books Anchor Bankside (p152) Pub Nunhead 34 Park Street (Map 10 C4) Grammex (p91) Pub Trafalgar Tavern (p155) 25 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Nunhead Cemetery (p105) Park Row (Map 16 C1) Music Linden Grove (£ Nunhead) Founders Arms (p154) Pub Bankside (Map 10 B4) Oxo Tower Wharf (p91) South Bank Pub Kennington Barge House St (Map 10 A4) Interiors/Fashion Hayward Gallery (p109) George Inn (p163) Ministry of Sound (p153) South Bank Centre (Map 9 H4) 77 Borough High St (Map 10 D5) 103 Gaunt Street Radio Days (p91) Art Gallery Pub (1 Elephant & Castle) 87 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Club Fashion Saatchi Gallery (p109) Globe Tavern (p163) County Hall (Map 9 H5) Bedale Street (Map 10 D4) Vauxhall Tavern (p153) What the Butler Wore (p91) Art Gallery Pub 372 Kennington La (Map 15 H4) 131 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Club Fashion Performance Market Porter (p163) 9 Stoney Street (Map 10 C4) Richmond Art & Architecture Battersea Pub White Cross (p154) Borough BAC (Battersea Royal Oak (p163) Water Lane (£1Richmond) Arts Centre) (p131) 44 Tabard Street (1 Borough) Pub Design Museum (p110) Lavender Hill Pub 28 Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) (£ Clapham Junction) Havens: Parks & Art Gallery Brixton Gardens Borough Jerwood Space (p109) Bug Bar & Lounge (p154) Greenwich & Deptford 171 Union Street (Map 10 B5) Shakespeare’s Globe (p130) St Matthews Church Art Gallery Bankside (Map 10 C4) (1 Brixton) Greenwich Park (p174) Theatre Bar Greenwich (Map 16 C3) Old Operating Theatre (p110) 9a St Thomas’s St (Map 10 D5) Brixton Dogstar (p154) Kew Museum 389 Coldharbour Lane Ritzy (p131) (1 Brixton) Kew Gardens (p175) Tate Modern (p111) Brixton Oval Club Kew (£1Kew) Bankside (Map 10 B4) (1 Brixton) Cinema Fridge/Fridge Bar (p153) Hotels Camberwell 1 Town Hall Parade (1 Brixton) Greenwich & Deptford Club Borough South London Gallery (p110) 65 Peckham Rd (1 Elephant & Laban (p130) Substation South (p165) London Bridge Hotel ££ Castle, then 171 bus) Creekside (Map 16 A3) Trinity Road (1 Brixton) (p189) Art Gallery Dance Venue Club 8–18 London Bridge Street (Map 10 D5) Dulwich South Bank Clapham Mercure London City ££ Dulwich Picture Gallery (p112) NFT (p130) Bread & Roses (p155) Bankside (p189) Gallery Road (£ Dulwich) South Bank (Map 9 H4) 68 Clapham Manor Street 71–9 Southwark St (Map 10 B4) (1 Clapham North) Eltham Old Vic (p130) Pub Deptford & Greenwich The Cut (Map 10 A5) Eltham Palace (p113) Theatre Prince of Wales (p155) Hamilton House (p189) ££ Court Yard (£ Eltham) 38 Old Town (1 Clapham 14 West Grove (Map 16 C4) Historic Building National Theatre (p129) Common) South Bank (Map 9 H4) Pub Greenwich & Deptford South Bank Centre (p129) Windmill (p153) Queen’s House (p112) Belvedere Rd/South Bank Clapham Common Greenwich Park (Map 16 C2) (Map 9 H4) (1 Clapham South) Historic Building Concert Halls Pub

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 219 Index by Type

St John (p46) £££ Hakkasan (p27) £££ The Ivy (p34) £££ Restaurants 26 St John Street 8 Hanway Place (Map 9 F2) 1 West Street (Map 9 F3) (Map 4 B5) Centre/Fitzrovia Centre/Covent Garden Recommended places to eat, City & East/Clerkenwell including cafés and pubs Hunan (p38) ££ Odette’s (p50) £££ Cafés 51 Pimlico Road (Map 14 C3) 130 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Belgian West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia North/Primrose Hill Arkansas Café (p161) Belgo (p43) ££ Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) Magic Wok (p43) £ The Orrery (p35) £££ 50 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) City & East/Spitalfields 61 Queensway (Map 7 F3) 55 Marylebone Hight St (Map 8 www.belgorestaurants.co.uk West/Bayswater & Paddington C1) Centre/Covent Garden Bar Italia (pp19 & 158) £ Centre/Marylebone 22 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Phoenix Palace (p36) £ British Centre/Soho 3–5 Glentworth Street Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar & (Map 8 B1) Brasserie (p54) £££ Fish! (p163) Beigel Bake (p19) £ Centre/Marylebone Top Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf Cathedral Street (Map 10 D4) 159 Brick Lane (Map 5 F5) Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/Borough City & East/Spitalfields Wong Kei (p25) £ South/South Bank 41–3 Wardour Street (Map 9 E3) Fish Central (p45) £ The Bridge House Canal Centre/Soho Sketch (p34) £££ 149–151 Central Street Theatre Café (p171) 9 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) (Map 4 C5) Delamere Terrace (Map 7 G1) European Centre/Mayfair & St James’s City & East/Clerkenwell West/Bayswater & Paddington Andrew Edmunds (p24) ££ Smiths of Golden Hind (p34) £ Lisboa Patisserie (p42) £ 46 Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) Smithfield (p45) ££/£££ 73 Marylebone Lane 57 Golborne Road (Map 6 C2) Centre/Soho 67–77 Charterhouse St (Map 8 C2) West/Notting Hill & (Map 10 B2) Centre/Marylebone Westbourne Park Blueprint Café (p52) ££ City & East/The City Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) J Sheekey (p31) £££ Market Coffee House (p161) South/Borough Thyme (p25) £££ 28–32 St Martin’s Court Brushfield Street (Map 11 E1) The Hospital, Endell Street, (Map 9 F3) City & East/Spitalfields Cantina Vinopolis (p163) (Map 9 G2) Centre/Covent Garden 1 Bank End (Map 10 C4) Centre/Covent Garden Orangery (p170) ££ South/Borough Lindsay House (p26) £££ Kensington Gardens Tom Aikens (p39) £££ 21 Romilly Street (Map 9 F3) (Map 7 F5) Le Caprice (p31) £££ 43 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) Centre/Soho West/Kensington Arlington House West/Chelsea & Fulham Arlington Street (Map 9 E4) Livebait (p53) £££ Patisserie Valerie (p26) £ Centre/Mayfair & St James’s The Wolseley (p32) £££ 41–5 The Cut (Map 10 A5) 44 Old Compton Street 160 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) South/South Bank (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Chez Bruce (p55) ££ Centre/Mayfair & St James’s 2 Bellevue Road Masters Super Fish (p53) £ Paul (p29) £ (Wandsworth) French 191 Waterloo Road (Map 10 A5) 20 Bedford Street (Map 9 G3) South/Wandsworth South/South Bank Centre/Covent Garden Club Gascon (p47) £££ Fifteen (p34) £££ 57 West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) Randall & Aubin (pp17 & 158) S&M Café (p42) £ 15 Westland Place (Map 4 C4) City & East/The City 14–16 Brewer Street 268 Portobello Road City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton (Map 9 E3) (Map 6 D3) La Galette (p36) £ Centre/Soho West/Notting Hill & Flâneur Food Hall (p45) ££ 56 Paddington St (Map 8 C1) Westbourne Park 41 Farringdon Road Centre/Marylebone Rock & Sole Plaice (p29) £ (Map 10 A1) 47 Endell Street (Map 9 G3) Caribbean City & East/Clerkenwell Le Petit Max (p55) ££ Centre/Covent Garden Riverside Plaza Mango Room (p51) ££ Foliage (p37) £££ Chatfield Road (£ Clapham) Rosa’s (p160) 10 Kentish Town Road Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park South/Clapham 69 Westbourne Pk Rd (Map 2 D1) Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge (Map 7 E2) North/Camden (Map 8 B5) Putney Bridge (p55) £££ West/Notting Hill & West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 2 Lwr Richmond Rd (£ Putney) Westbourne Park Chinese South/Putney Gordon Ramsay (p34) £££ Rules (p30) £££ ECapital (p25) £ 68–9 Royal Hospital Road Racine (p39) ££ 35 Maiden Lane (Map 9 G3) 8 Gerrard Street (Map 9 F3) (Map 14 B4) 239 Brompton Rd (Map 14 A2) Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Soho West/Chelsea & Fulham West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

220 www.elondon.dk.com Restaurants

Gastropubs Chutney Mary (p40) £££ Locanda Locatelli (p34) £££ Zuma (p38) £££ 535 King’s Road (Map 13 G5) 8 Seymour Street (Map 8 B3) 5 Raphael Street (Map 14 A1) The Drapers Arms (p49) ££ West/Chelsea & Fulham Centre/Marylebone West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 44 Barnsbury Street (Map 4 A2) North/Islington Cinnamon Club (p37) £££ The River Café (p41) £££ Korean Old Westminster Library Rainville Road (Map 12 A5) Duke of Cambridge (p15) Great Smith Street (Map 15 F1) West/Hammersmith Kaya (p33) ££ 30 St Peter’s Street (Map 4 B3) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico 42 Albemarle Street (Map 8 D4) North/Islington Sardo (p29) ££ Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Kovolam (p52) £ 45 Grafton Way (Map 9 E1) The House (p49) ££ 12 Willesden Lane (1 Kilburn) Centre/Fitzrovia Malaysian 63–9 Canonbury Rd (Map 4 B1) North/Kilburn North/Islington Strada (p43) ££ Champor-Champor (p52) ££ Masala Zone (p43) £ 8–10 Exmouth Market 62 Weston Street (Map 10 D5) The Lansdowne (p51) ££ 9 Marshall Street, (Map 4 A5) www.strada.co.uk South/Borough 90 Gloucester Avenue 020 7287 9966 (Map 9 E3) City & East/Clerkenwell (Map 2 C2) Centre/Soho Satay House (p43) £ North/Primrose Hill 80 Upper Street, Zafferano (p39) £££ 13 Sale Place (Map 7 H2) 020 7359 3399 (Map 4 B3) 15 Lowndes Street (Map 14 B1) West/Bayswater & Paddington Lock Tavern (p152) ££ North/Islington West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 35 Chalk Farm Raod (Map 2 D2) Mediterranean North/Camden The Painted Heron (p40) ££ Japanese 112 Cheyne Walk (Map 13 H5) Cantaloupe (p47) ££ Lonsdale (p143) ££ West/Chelsea & Fulham Donzoko (p24) £ 35 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) 15 Kingly Street (Map 9 E3) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton West/Notting Hill & Rasa Samudra (p28) ££ Centre/Soho Westbourne Park 5 Charlotte street (Map 9 E1) Middle Eastern Centre/Fitzrovia Hazuki (p31) ££ Lots Road Pub & 43 Chandos Place (Map 9 G4) Maroush Gardens (p36) ££ Dining Room (p40) ££ Red Fort (p27) £££ Centre/Covent Garden 1–3 Connaught Street (8 A3) 114 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) 77 Dean St (Map 9 F3) West/Bayswater & Paddington West/Chelsea & Fulham Centre/Soho Itsu (p43) ££ 103 Wardour Street (Map 9 E3) Noura (p38) ££ Sutton Arms (p45) ££ Tamarind (p33) £££ www.itsu.co.uk 16 Hobart Place (Map 14 D1) 6 Carthusian St (Map 10 B1) 20 Queen Street (Map 8 D4) Centre/Soho West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia City & East/The City Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Kiku (p33) £££ Patogh (p37) £ The Wells (p51) ££/£££ International 17 Half Moon Street 8 Crawford Place (Map 8 A2) 30 Well Walk (Map 1 B4) (Map 8 D4) Centre/Marylebone North/Hampstead Café Emm (p25) £ Centre/Mayfair & St James’s 17 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Al Sultan (p34) ££ The Westbourne (p160) Centre/Soho Matsuri (p29) £££ 51–2 Hertford St (Map 8 C5) 101 Westbourne Pk Villas 71 High Holborn (Map 9 H2) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s (Map 7 E2) Giraffe (p43) ££ Centre/Holborn West/Notting Hill & 46 Rosslyn Hill (Map 1 C5) Al Waha (p43) ££ Westbourne Park www.giraffe.net Nobu (p34) £££ 75 Westbourne Grove (7 E3) North/Hampstead 19 Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) West/Notting Hill & Greek Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Westbourne Park The Providores & Café Corfu (p50) ££ Tapa Room (p35) £££ Tsunami (p54) £££ North African 7 Pratt Street (Map 3 E2) 109 Marylebone High St 5 Voltaire Road North/Camden (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone (1 Clapham North) Mô (p34) £ South/Clapham 23 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) The Real Greek (p48) ££ Rivington Bar and Grill (p162) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s 14–15 Hoxton Market 28–30 Rivington Street Wagamama (p43) £ (Map 5 E5) (Map 5 E5) Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) Original Tagines (p36) ££ City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton www.wagamama.com 7A Dorset Street (Map 8 B2) Centre/Soho Centre/Marylebone Indian Italian Yo! Sushi (p43) £ North American Café Spice Namaste (p46) ££ Cecconi’s (p31) £££ 52 Poland Street 16 Prescot Street (Map 11 F3) 5A Burlington Gardens (Map 9 E3) Bodean’s (p24) ££ City & East/Spitalfields & (Map 9 E4) www.yosushi.co.uk 10 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Whitechapel Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Centre/Soho Centre/Soho

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 221 Index by Type

Patara (p33) ££ Calder Bookshop (p91) Simon Finch Rare Books (p82) Restaurants 3 & 7 Maddox St (Map 8 D3) 51 The Cut (Map 10 A5) 61a Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s South/South Bank West/Notting Hill & North American Westbourne Park continued Turkish Daunt Books (p74) 83 Marylebone High Street Travel Bookshop (p159) Eagle Bar Diner (p27) £ Gallipoli (p49) £ (Map 8 C1) 13–15 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) 3–5 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 F2) 102 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Centre/Marylebone West/Notting Hill & Centre/Fitzrovia North/Islington David Drummond (p64) Westbourne Park Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Oriental Tas (p53) ££ Centre/Covent Garden Department Stores 33 The Cut (Map 10 A5) E&O (p42) ££ South/South Bank Forbidden Planet (p63) Fenwick (p79) 14 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) 179 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F2) 63 New Bond Street West/Notting Hill & Vegetarian Centre/Covent Garden (Map 8 D3) www.fenwick.co.uk Westbourne Park Centre/Mayfair & St James’s The Gate (p41) ££ Foyles (p65) Great Eastern 51 Queen Charlotte St Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Fortnum & Mason (p79) Dining Room (p48) ££ (Map 12 A3) Centre/Covent Garden 181 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) 54–6 Great Eastern St West/Hammersmith www.fortnumandmason.com (Map 5 E5) Gay’s the Word (p64) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Manna (p51) ££ 66 Marchmont St (Map 3 G5) 4 Erskine Road (Map 2 B2) Centre/Bloomsbury Harrods (p79) Spanish North/Primrose Hill 87–135 Brompton Road Henry Pordes (p65) (Map 14 B1) www.harrods.com Fino (p28) ££ Vietnamese 58–60 Charing Cross Road West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 33 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) (Map 9 F3) Centre/Fitzrovia Green Papaya (p48) £ Centre/Covent Garden Harvey Nichols (p79) 191 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) 109–25 Knightsbridge Mar i Terra (p24) £ City & East/Hackney Magma (p62) (Map 14 B1) 17 Air Street (Map 9 E3) 8 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) www.harveynichols.com Centre/Soho Viet Hoa (p48) £ Centre/Covent Garden West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 70–2 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) Mesón Don Felipe (p53) £ City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Marchpane (p64) John Lewis (p79) 53 The Cut (Map 10 A5) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) 278–306 Oxford St (Map 8 D3) South/South Bank Centre/Covent Garden www.johnlewis.com Centre/Marylebone Moro (p44) ££ Shopping Nigel Williams (p64) 34–6 Exmouth Mkt (Map 4 A5) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Liberty (p68) City & East/Clerkenwell Books Centre/Covent Garden 210–20 Regent St (Map 8 D3) Centre/Soho Navarro’s (p28) £ Any Amount of Books (p65) PJ Hilton (p64) 67 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E1) 56 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Marks & Spencer (p85) Centre/Fitzrovia Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Covent Garden 458 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Soho El Parador (p50) £ ARTWORDS (p162) Primrose Hill Books (p90) 245 Eversholt St (Map 3 E4) 65 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) Regent’s Park Road Selfridges (p71) North/Camden www.artwords.co.uk (Map 2 B2) 400 Oxford Street (Map 8 C3) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton North/Primrose Hill Centre/Marylebone Tendido Cero (p40) ££ 174 Old Brompton Rd Blackwell’s (p65) Quinto (p65) Fashion (Map 13 G3) 100 Charing Cross Road 48a Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) West/Chelsea & Fulham (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden 202 (p80) Centre/Covent Garden 202 Westbourne Grove Thai Shipley (p65) (Map 7 F3) West/Notting Hill & Blenheim Books (p159) 70 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Westbourne Park Busaba Eathai (p43) ££ 11 Blenheim Crescent Centre/Covent Garden 106–10 Wardour Street, (Map 6 C3) AgnèsB (p60) 020 7255 8686 (Map 9 E3) West/Notting Hill & Shipley Media (p65) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Soho Westbourne Park 80 Charing Cross Road Centre/Covent Garden 22 Store Street, (Map 9 F3) 020 7299 7900 (Map 9 F2) Borders (p65) Centre/Covent Garden All Saints (p62) Centre/Bloomsbury Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) 5 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Silver Moon (see Foyles, p65) Centre/Covent Garden

222 For links to fashion shops large and small across London, check www.elondon.dk.com Restaurants – Shopping

Anna (p90) FCUK (p85) Madeleine Press (p74) Red Hot (p83) 126 Regent’s Pk Rd (Map 2 B2) 396 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) 90 Maryleb. High St (Map 8 C1) Unit 9 Portobello Green North/Primrose Hill Centre/Fitzrovia Centre/Marylebone (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Annie’s Vintage Clothes (p90) For Design Sake (p91) Maharishi (p60) Westbourne Park Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Oxo Tower Wharf, 19a Floral Street (Map 9 G3) North/Islington Barge House Street Centre/Covent Garden Rellik (p85) (Map 10 A4) 8 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) aQuaint (p61) South/South Bank Margaret Howell (p72) West/Notting Hill & 38 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 34 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Westbourne Park Centre/Covent Garden Gloria’s Super Deluxe (p160) Centre/Marylebone Dray Walk, Brick Lane Rokit (p88) Browns (p70) (Map 11 F1) Maria Grachvogel (p75) 101 & 107 Brick Lane 23–7 S Molton St (Map 8 D3) City & East/Spitalfields & 162 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) (Map 11 F1) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Whitechapel West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Bunny London (p91) Hoxton Boutique (p86) Marilyn Moore (p84) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House 2 Hoxton Street (Map 5 E5) 7 Elgin Crescent (Map 6 C3) Saloon (p86) Street (Map 10 A4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton West/Notting Hill & 23 Arlington Way (Map 4 A4) South/South Bank Westbourne Park City & East/Clerkenwell Jigsaw (p85) Burro (p60) 126 New Bond Street Mulberry (p72) Scorah Pattullo (p89) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) (Map 8 D3) 11–12 Gees Court (Map 8 C3) 137 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Centre/Marylebone North/Islington

Camper (p60) J&M Davidson (p81) Nicole Farhi (p60) Sixty 6 (p73) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 42 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 66 Marylebone High Street Centre/Covent Garden West/Notting Hill & Centre/Covent Garden (Map 8 C1) Westbourne Park Centre/Marylebone Coco Ribbon (p84) N Peal (p70) 21 Kensington Pk Rd (Map 6 C3) Jones (p60) 37 & 71 Burlington Arcade Size? (p62) West/Notting Hill & 13–15 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) (Map 9 E4) 17–19 Neal Street (Map 9 G3) Westbourne Park Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Centre/Covent Garden

Comfort & Joy (p88) Joseph (p77) Oki-ni (p68) Stella McCartney (p70) 109 Essex Road (Map 4 B3) 77 Fulham Road (Map 13 H3) 25 Savile Row (Map 9 E3) 30 Bruton Street (Map 8 D4) North/Islington West/Chelsea & Fulham Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Contemporary Wardrobe (p63) Junky (p160) Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) Stüssy (p62) The Horse Hospital Dray Walk, Brick La (Map 11 F1) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) 19 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Colonnade (Map 9 G1) City & East/Spitalfields & Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Bloomsbury Whitechapel 120 & 122 Kensington Park Road (Map 6 D4) Suite 20 (p83) The Cross (p85) JW Beeton (p82) West/Notting Hill & Unit 20 Portobello Green 141 Portland Road (Map 6 C4) 48–50 Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) Westbourne Park (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & West/Notting Hill & West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Westbourne Park Preen (p83) Westbourne Park Unit 5 Port. Green (Map 6 C2) Cyberdog (p62) Karen Millen (p85) West/Notting Hill & Ted Baker (p60) 9 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) 262–4 Regent Street Westbourne Park Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden (Map 8 D3) Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Public Beware (p160) Diesel StyleLab (p60) Dray Walk, Brick La (Map 11 F1) The World According To… (p66) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Koh Samui (p61) City & East/Spitalfields & 4 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Covent Garden 65–7 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Whitechapel Centre/Soho Centre/Covent Garden The Dispensary (p68) Radio Days (p91) Tonic (p82) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Kokon To-Zai (p66) 87 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Portobello Road (Map 6 C2) Centre/Soho 57 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) South/South Bank West/Notting Hill & Centre/Soho Westbourne Park Duchamp (p82) RedDot (p68) 75 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Labour of Love (p89) Newburgh Street Topshop (p68) West/Notting Hill & 193 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) (Map 9 E3) Oxford Circus (Map 9 D2) Westbourne Park North/Islington Centre/Soho Centre/Fitzrovia

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 223 Index by Type

Antiquarius (p80) Shopping Paul Rothe (p73) 131–41 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) Labour and Wait (p88) 35 Marylebone Lane (Map 8 West/Chelsea & Fulham 18 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) C2) City & East/Spitalfields & Fashion continued Centre/Marylebone Aram (p60) Whitechapel 110 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Tracey Boyd (p76) Poilane (p76) Centre/Covent Garden Marimekko (p72) 42 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) 46 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) 16–17 St Christopher’s Pl (8 C3) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Aria (p89) Centre/Marylebone 295–96 & 133 Upper St Urban Outfitters (p62) Prestat (p75) (Map 4 B2) Mar Mar Co (p88) 42–56 Earlham St (Map 9 F3) 14 Princes Arcade (Map 9 E4) North/Islington 16 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Mayfair & St James’s City & East/Spitalfields & Bedstock (p83) Whitechapel What the Butler Wore (p91) Health & Beauty Unit 26 Portobello Green 131 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) (Map 6 C2) Mint (p73) South/South Bank Calmia (p73) West/Notting Hill & 70 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) 52–4 Marylebone High St Westbourne Park Centre/Marylebone Whistles (p72) (Map 8 C1) 12 St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone Black & Blum (p91) Neisha Crosland (p77) Centre/Marylebone Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House 8 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) Jo Malone (p75) Street (Map 10 A4) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Florists 150 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) South/South Bank West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Origin (p90) The Wild Bunch (p62) Bodo Sperlein (p91) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Kiehl’s (p61) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House North/Islington Centre/Covent Garden 29 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Street (Map 10 A4) Centre/Covent Garden South/South Bank Skandium (p74) Woodhams (p76) 86–7 Marylebone High St 45 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) K0rres (p79) Caroline Carrier’s (p90) (Map 8 C1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 124 King’s Road (Map 14 A3) Pierrepont Arcade Centre/Marylebone West/Chelsea & Fulham Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Food North/Islington Story (p87) Miller Harris (p81) 4 Wilkes Street (Map 11 F1) A Gold (p87) 14 Needham Road (Map 7 E3) The Conran Shop (p78) City & East/Spitalfields & 42 Brushfield St (Map 11 E1) West/Notting Hill & Michelin House Whitechapel City & East/Spitalfields & Westbourne Park 81 Fulham Road (Map 14 A2) Whitechapel West/Chelsea & Fulham twentytwentyone (p89) REN (p69) 274 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Camisa (p158) 19 Shepherd Market (Map 8 D4) Designers Guild (p80) North/Islington 61 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s 267 & 277 King’s Road Centre/Soho (Map 14 A4) Lingerie Scent Systems (p68) West/Chelsea & Fulham Carluccio’s (p72) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Agent Provocateur (p67) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Soho Eatmyhandbagbitch (p64) 6 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Marylebone Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Centre/Soho Les Senteurs (p76) Centre/Covent Garden The Chocolate Society (p76) 71 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) Coco de Mer (p61) 36 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) 23 Monmouth St West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 4 & 10 Elgin Cr (Map 6 C3) (Map 9 F3) Space.NK (p80) West/Notting Hill Centre/Covent Garden La Fromagerie (p74) 127–31 Westb. Gr (Map 7 F3) 164 Regent’s Park Road 2–4 Moxton Street West/Notting Hill & (Map 2 B2) Music (Map 8 C2) Westbourne Park North/Primrose Hill Centre/Marylebone Honest Jon’s (p83) Studio Perfumery (p90) Judith Lasalle (p90) 278 Portobello Rd Gerry’s (p66) 170 Regent’s Park Road Pierrepont Arcade (Map 6 D3) 74 Old Compton St (Map 2 B2) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) West/Notting Hill & (Map 9 F3) North/Primrose Hill North/Islington Westbourne Park Centre/Soho Interiors Inexterior (p88) Intoxica! (p83) Neal’s Yard Dairy (p62) 14 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) 231 Portobello Rd 17 Shorts Gardens After Noah (p89) City & East/Spitalfields & (Map 6 D3) (Map 9 G3) 121 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Whitechapel West/Notting Hill & Centre/Covent Garden North/Islington Westbourne Park

224 www.elondon.dk.com Shopping – Art & Architecture

Phonica (p67) Bill Amberg (p81) Poste (p70) Jerwood Space (p109) 51 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) 10 Chepstow Road (Map 7 E2) 10 S Molton St (Map 8 D3) 171 Union Street (Map 10 B5) Centre/Soho West/Notting Hill & Centre/Mayfair & St James’s South/Borough Westbourne Park Ray’sJazz(p65) Poste Mistress (p61) Lisson (p110) Foyles Bookshop, Charing b Store (p67) 261–3 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) 52–4 Bell Street Cross Road (Map 9 F3) 6 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) Centre/Covent Garden (Map 8 A1) Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Mayfair & St James Centre/Marylebone Rachel Skinner (p90) Rough Trade (p81) Erickson Beamon (p76) 13 Princess Road (Map 2 B2) Matt’sGallery(p110) 130 Talbot Road (Map 6 D3) 38 Elizabeth Street North/Primrose Hill 42–4 Copperfield Road West/Notting Hill & (Map 14 C2) (1 Mile End) Westbourne Park West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Tatty Devine (p88) City & East/Bethnal Green 236 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Smallfish Records (p87) Georgina Goodman (p69) City & East/Spitalfields & Photographers’ Gallery (p95) 329 Old Street (Map 11 F1) 12–14 Shepherd St (Map 8 D5) Whitechapel 5 & 8 Great Newport Street City & East Centre/Mayfair & St James’s (Map 9 F3) Willma (p84) Centre/Covent Garden Vinyl Junkies (p158) James Smith & Sons (p63) 339 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) Berwick St (Map 9 E3) 53 New Oxford St (Map 9 G2) West/Notting Hill & Saatchi Gallery (p109) Centre/Soho Centre/Bloomsbury Westbourne Park County Hall (Map 9 H5) South/South Bank Prints & Posters Jess James (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Sadie Coles HQ (p110) Artcadia (p87) Centre/Soho 35 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) 108 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) Art & Centre/Mayfair & St James’s City & East/Spitalfields & Jimmy Choo (p77) Whitechapel 169 Draycott Avenue Architecture Serpentine Gallery (p101) (Map 14 A3) Kensington Gardens Rock Archive (p90) West/Chelsea & Fulham Art Galleries (Map 7 H5) 110 Islington High St (Map 4 A3) West/Kensington North/Islington Kate Kuba (p79) The Agency (p110) 22 Duke of York Square, Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) South London Gallery (p110) Stage Door Prints (p64) King’s Road (Map 14 B3) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton 65 Peckham Rd (1 Elephant & 9 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Castle, then 171 bus) Centre/Covent Garden The Approach (p110) South/Camberwell Kirk Originals (p60) Approach Road Storey’s (p64) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) (1 Bethnal Green) Stephen Friedman (p110) 3 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden City & East/Bethnal Green Old Burlington Street Centre/Covent Garden (Map 9 E4) Lara Bohinc 107 (p86) Camden Arts Centre (p106) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s The Tintin Shop (p60) 51 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Arkwright Road (Hampstead) 34 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Ctiy & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton North/Hampstead Vilma Gold (p15) Centre/Covent Garden 25b Vyner Street (Map 5 H3) Lulu Guinness (p77) Chisenhale (p110) City & East/Bethnal Green Vertigo (p60) 3 Ellis Street (Map 14 B2) Chisenhale Road 22 Wellington St (Map 9 G3) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia (1 Bethnal Green) Wapping Project Space (p105) Centre/Covent Garden City & East/Bethnal Green Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) Oliver Sweeney (p79) City & East/Wapping & Vintage (p66) 29 King’s Road (Map 14 B3) Gagosian (p110) Docklands 39–43 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) West/Chelsea & Fulham www.gagosian.com Centre/Soho 6–24 Britannia Street Whitechapel Gallery (p104 ) Osprey (p72) (Map 3 G4) 80 Whitechapel High St (11 F2) Shoes & Accessories St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Bloomsbury City & East/Spitalfields & Centre/Marylebone 8 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Whitechapel Anello & Davide (p72) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s 20–21 St Christoper’s Pl (8 C3) Patrick Cox (p75) White Cube (p110) Centre/Marylebone 129 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) Hayward Gallery (p109) Hoxton Square(Map 5 E5) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia South Bank Centre (Map 9 H4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Anya Hindmarch (p76) South/South Bank 15–17 Pont Street (Map 14 B2) Philip Treacy (p76) Wilkinson Gallery (p110) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 69 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) ICA (p96) 242 Cambridge Heath Road West/Knightsbridge & The Mall (Map 9 F5) (1 Bethnal Green) Belgravia Centre/Westminster & Pimlico City & East/Bethnal Green

For markets, see p236 225 Index by Type

St Paul’s Cathedral (p100) Modern Architecture Kenwood House (p108) Art & www.stpauls.co.uk (Map 10 B3) Hampstead Heath (Map 1 C1) Architecture City & East/The City Barbican (See Combined Arts) North/Hampstead St Stephen Walbrook (p100) Great Court (See museums) Leighton House Museum (p103) Cemeteries Walbrook (Map 10 D3) 12 Holland Pk Rd (Map 12 D1) City & East/The City Laban Centre (See Dance) West/Kensington Abney Park Cemetery (p173) Stoke Newington Temple Church (pp168 & 98) Lord’s (p107) Museum in Docklands (p106) Church Street Off Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) Wellington Road West India Quay, www.museum (£ Stoke Newington or 73 bus) Centre/Holborn (1 St John’s Wood) indocklands.org.uk (£ W. India North/Stoke Newington North/St John’s Wood Quay DLR / 1 Canary Wharf) Westminster Abbey (p96) City & East/Wapping & Brompton Cemetery (p105) Broad Sanctuary (Map 15 F1) National Theatre (See Theatres) Docklands Lillie Road (Map 13 E4) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico West/Kensington RIBA (p97) Museum of the Order of Historic Buildings 66 Portland Place (Map 8 D1) St John (p104) Highgate Cemetery (p105) Centre/Fitzrovia St John’s Gate (Map 10 B1) Swain’s Lane (1 Highgate) Banqueting House (p99) City & East/Clerkenwell http://highgate-cemetery.org Whitehall (Map 9 G5) 2 Willow Road (p107) North/Highgate Centre/Westminster & Pimlico Hampstead (Map 1 c4) National Gallery North/Hampstead (See Sainsbury Wing) Kensal Green Cemetery (p105) Buckingham Palace (p96) (1 Kensal Green) Buckingham Gate (Map 14 D1) Museums National Portrait Gallery (p96) www.kensalgreen.co.uk Centre/Westminster & Pimlico St Martin’s Place (Map 9 F4) North/Kensal Green British Museum (p13) Centre/Covent Garden Dennis Severs’ House (p104) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Nunhead Cemetery (p105) 18 Folgate Street (Map 11 E1) Centre/Bloomsbury Natural History Museum (p102) Linden Grove (£ Nunhead) City & East/Spitalfields & (See also Great Court) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) South/Nunhead Whitechapel West/Kensington Design Museum (p110) Churches Eltham Palace (p113) 28 Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) Old Operating Theatre (p110) Court Yard (£ Eltham) South/Borough 9a St Thomas’s St (Map 10 D5) Brompton Oratory (p101) South South/Borough Brompton Road (Map 14 A2) Dr Johnson’s House (p98) West/Kensington Fenton House (p107) 17 Gough Square (Map 10 A2) Queens Gallery (p96) Windmill Hill (Map 1 A4) Centre/Holborn Buckingham Pal Rd (Map 14 D1) St Bartholomew North/Hampstead Centre/Westminster & Pimlico the Great (p103) Dulwich Picture Gallery (p112) West Smithfield Hampton Court Palace (p96) Gallery Road (£ Dulwich) Sackler Wing, RA (p100) (Map 10 B2) (£ Hampton Court) South/Dulwich Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) City & East/The City South/Hampton Court Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Estorick Collection (p106) St Bride’s (p100) Kensington Palace (p96) 39 Canonbury Square Sainsbury Wing, Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) Palace Avenue (Map 7 F5) (Map 4 B1) National Gallery (p95) www.stbrides.com West/Kensington & Earl’s Court North/Islington Trafalgar Square (Map 9 F4) Centre/Holborn Centre/Covent Garden Linley Sambourne House (p102) Freud Museum (p108) St James’s Piccadilly (p100) 18 Stafford Terrace 20 Maresfield Gardens Science Museum (p102) 197 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) (Map 13 E1) (1 Finchley Road) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s West/Kensington North/Hampstead West/Kensington

St Margaret’s Church (p99) 19 Princelet Street (p103) Geffrye Museum (p105) Sir John Soane’s Museum (p97) Sanctuary (Map 15 G1) Spitalfields (Map 11 F1) Kingsland Road (Map 5 E4) 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields Centre/Westminster & Pimlico City & East/Spitalfields & City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton (Map 9 H2) Whitechapel Centre/Holborn St Mary-le-Bow (p100) Great Court & Reading Room, Cheapside (Map 10 C3) Queen’s House (p112) British Museum (p98) Somerset House (p94) www.stmarylebow.co.uk Greenwich Park (Map 16 C2) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Strand (Map 9 H3) City & East/The City South/Greenwich & Deptford Centre/Bloomsbury Centre/Covent Garden

St Olave’s (p169) Tower of London (p96) Keats House (p108) Tate Britain (p99) Hart Street (Map 11 E3) Tower Hill (Map 11 F4) Keats Grove (Map 1 C5) Millbank (Map 15 G3) City & East/The City City & East/The City North/Hampstead Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

226 Click through to London’s art venues via www.elondon.dk.com Art & Architecture – Performance – Pubs

Tate Modern (p111) Tricycle (p129) St John’s Smith Square (p122) King’s Head Theatre Bar (p127) Bankside (Map 10 B4) 269 Kilburn High Rd (1 Kilburn) Smith Square (Map 15 G2) 115 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) South/Borough North/Kilburn Centre/Westminster & Pimlico North/Islington Theatre Museum (p95) Comedy Scala (p126) Old Vic (p130) Russell Street (Map 9 G3) 275 Pentonville Rd (Map 3 H4) The Cut (Map 10 A5) Centre/Covent Garden Comedy Café (p125) Centre/Bloomsbury South/South Bank 66–8 Rivington Street V&A (p102) (Map 5 E5) Shepherd’s Bush Royal National Theatre (p129) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Empire (p123) South Bank (Map 9 H4) West/Kensington Shepherd’s Bush Green South/South Bank Comedy Store (p121) (Map 6 A5) The Wallace Collection (p101) 1a Oxendon Street (Map 9 F4) West/Shepherd’s Bush Shakespeare’s Globe (p130) Manchester Square (Map 8 C2) Centre/Soho Bankside (Map 10 C4) Centre/Marylebone 606 Club (p123) South/Borough Hackney Empire 90 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) (See Theatres) West/Chelsea & Fulham Soho Theatre (p120) 21 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Jongleurs (p128) South Bank Centre (p129) Centre/Soho Performance Middle Yard Belvedere Rd/South Bank Chalk Farm Road (Map 2 D2) (Map 9 H4) Cinemas North/Camden South/South Bank (For National Theatre see Curzon Soho (p120) Dance Theatres; for NFT see cinemas) Pubs, Bars 99 Shaftesbury Avenue (Map 9 F3) Laban (p130) The Spitz (p124) & Clubs Centre/Soho Creekside (Map 16 A3) Old Spitalfields Market South/Greenwich & Deptford (Map 11 F1) Pubs Electric Cinema (p123) City & East/Spitalfields & 191 Portobello Road The Place (p122) Whitechapel Anchor Bankside (p152) (Map 6 D3) 17 Duke’s Road (Map 3 F5) 34 Park Street (Map 10 C4) West/Notting Hill & Centre/Bloomsbury 12 Bar Club (p119) South/Borough Westbourne Park 22–3 Denmark St (Map 9 F2) Sadler’sWells(p126) Centre/Covent Garden Black Friar (p144) Everyman (p128) Rosebery Avenue (Map 4 A4) 174 Queen Victoria St 5 Holly Bush Vale North/Islington Union Chapel (p127) (Map 10 B3) (Map 1 A5) Compton Avenue (Map 4 B1) City & East/The City North/Hampstead Music Venues North/Islington Bread & Roses (p155) NFT (p130) Borderline (p119) Wigmore Hall (p122) 68 Clapham Manor Street South Bank (Map 9 H4) Orange Yard, 36 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) (1 Clapham North) South/South Bank Manette Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Marylebone South/Clapham Centre/Soho Prince Charles Cinema (p121) Theatres The Bricklayer’sArms(p162) 7 Leicester Place (Map 9 F3) ENO @ The Coliseum (p119) 63 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Centre/Soho St Martin’s Lane (Map 9 G4) Almeida (p126) City & East/Shoreditch Centre/Covent Garden Almeida Street (Map 4 B2) Ritzy (p131) North/Islington Blue Anchor (p154) Brixton Oval (1 Brixton) Jazz Café (p127) 13 Lower Mall South/Brixton 5 Parkway (Map 2 D3) Arts Theatre (p119) (1 Hammersmith) North/Camden Great Newport St (Map 9 F3) West/Hammersmith Combined Arts Centre/Covent Garden Mean Fiddler (p120) Coach & Horses (p144) BAC (p131) 168 Charing Cross Road Donmar Warehouse (p118) 29 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Lavender Hill (£ Clapham Jctn) (Map 9 F3) 41 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho South/Clapham Centre/Soho Centre/Covent Garden Crown Islington (p151) Barbican (p124) Ronnie Scott’s (p121) Hackney Empire (p125) 116 Cloudesley Rd (Map 4 A3) Silk Street (Map 10 C1) 47 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Mare Street (Map 5 H1) North/Islington City & East/The City Centre/Soho City & East/Hackney

Riverside Studios (p124) Royal Opera House (p118) Hampstead Theatre (p128) Crisp Road (Map 12 A4) Bow Street (Map 9 G3) Eton Avenue (1 Swiss Cottage) West/Hammersmith Centre/Covent Garden North/Swiss Cottage

For parks and gardens, see p238 or look in the Index by area (pp210–19) 227 Index by Type

Lamb & Flag (p137) Bars Fluid (p146) Pubs, Bars 33 Rose Street (Map 9 G3) 40 Charterhouse St Centre/Covent Garden The American Bar (p137) (Map 10 B1) & Clubs Savoy Hotel, Strand (Map 9 G4) City & East/Clerkenwell Market Porter (p163) Centre/Covent Garden Pubs continued 9 Stoney Street (Map 10 C4) G-A-Y (p158) South/Borough Apartment 195 (p142) 30 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) The Dove (p154) 195 King’s Road (Map 14 A4) Centre/Soho 19 Upper Mall (1 Hammersmith) Nag’sHead (p141) West/Chelsea & Fulham West/Hammersmith 53 Kinnerton St (Map 14 B1) Golborne Grove (p143) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Atlantic Bar & Grill (p137) 36 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) The Endurance (p138) 20 Glasshouse St (Map 9 E4) West/Notting Hill & 90 Berwick Street (Map 9 E3) Pillars of Hercules (p144) Centre/Soho Westbourne Park Centre/Soho 7 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Bar Kick (p162) Gordon’s Wine Bar (p136) Fitzroy Tavern (p144) 127 Shoreditch High St (5 E5) 47 Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) 16 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Pineapple (p151) City & East/Shoreditch Centre/Covent Garden Centre/Fitzrovia 51 Leverton Street (1 Camden) North/Camden Bar Rumba (p138) Hoxton Square Founders Arms (p154) 36 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) Bar & Kitchen (p147) Bankside (Map 10 B4) Pride of Spitalfields (p148) Centre/Soho 2–4 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) South/Borough 3 Heneage Street (Map 11 F1) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton City & East/Spitalfields & Blue Bar (p142) Freemason’sArms(p153) Whitechapel Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Pl (14 B1) Jerusalem (p139) 32 Downshire Hill (Map 1 C5) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 33–4 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 E2) North/Hampstead Prince of Wales (p155) Centre/Fitzrovia 38 Old Town Bug Bar & Lounge (p154) French House (p139) (1 Clapham Common) St Matthews Church (1 Brixton) Lobby Bar (p136) 49 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) South/Clapham South/Brixton 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) Centre/Soho Centre/Covent Garden Prospect of Whitby (p149) Café Kick (p145) George Inn (p163) 57 Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) 43 Exmouth Market (Map 4 A5) Lock Tavern (p152) 77 Borough High St (Map 10 D5) City & East/Wapping & City & East/Clerkenwell 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) South/Borough Docklands North/Camden Cargo (p146) Globe Tavern (p163) Royal Inn on the Park (p153) 83 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) Lonsdale (p143) Bedale Street (Map 10 D4) Grove Road (1 Bethnal Green) City & East/Shoreditch & 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) South/Borough City & East/Hackney Hoxton West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Golden Hart (p149) Royal Oak (p163) Cherry Jam (p141) 110 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) 44 Tabard Street 58 Porchester Road (Map 7 F2) Loungelover (p149) City & East/Spitalfields & (1 Borough) West/Bayswater & Paddington 1 Whitby Street (Map 5 F5) Whitechapel South/Borough City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Dogstar (p154) The Grapes (p149) Spaniards Inn (p153) 389 Coldharbour Lane Mac Bar (p152) 76 Narrow Street (1 Wapping) Spaniards Road (Map 1 B2) (1 Brixton) 102 Camden Road (Map 3 E2) City & East/Wapping & North/Hampstead South/Brixton North/Camden Docklands Trafalgar Tavern (p155) Elbow Room (p162) Market Place (p140) Greenwich Union (p155) Park Row (Map 16 C1) 97–113 Curtain Rd (Map 5 E5) 11 Market Place (Map 9 E2) 56 Royal Hill (Map 16 B3) South/Greenwich & Deptford City & East/Shoreditch Centre/Fitzrovia South/Greenwich & Deptford White Cross (p154) Embassy Bar (p150) Mash (p140) Island Queen (p151) Water Lane (£1Richmond) 119 Essex Road (Map 4 B2) 19–21 Great Portland St (8 D2) 87 Noel Road (Map 4 B3) South/Richmond North/Islington Centre/Fitzrovia North/Islington Windmill (p153) The End (p141) Medicine Bar (p150) Jerusalem Tavern (p146) Clapham Common 18 West Central St (Map 9 G2) 181 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) 55 Britton Street (Map 10 B1) (1 Clapham South) Centre/Covent Garden North/Islington City & East/Clerkenwell South/Clapham Escape Bar (p158) Mother (p147) Lamb (p141) Windsor Castle (p144) 10a Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) 94 Lamb’s Conduit St (Map 9 H1) 114 Campden Hill Rd (Map 7 E5) Centre/Soho City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Centre/Bloomsbury West/Kensington

228 www.elondon.dk.com Pubs, Bars & Clubs – Hotels

The Player (p139) Herbal (p147) Dorset Square (p183) London Bridge Hotel (p189) 8 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) 10–14 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) 39 Dorset Square (Map 8 B1) 8–18 London Bridge St Centre/Soho City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Centre/Marylebone (Map 10 D5) South/Borough Pool (p162) Madame Jo-Jos (p138) The Franklin (p184) 104–8 Curtain Road (Map 5 E5) 8–10 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) 28 Egerton Gdns (Map 14 A2) Malmaison (p187) City & East/Shoreditch Centre/Soho West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Charterhouse Sq (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell The Social (p140) Ministry of Sound (p153) Great Eastern (p187) 5 Little Portland St (Map 8 D2) 103 Gaunt Street Liverpool Street (Map 11 E2) Mercure London City Centre/Fitzrovia (1 Elephant & Castle) City & East/The City Bankside (p189) South/Kennington 71–9 Southwark St (Map 10 B4) Townhouse (p142) Hazlitt’s (p181) South/Borough 31 Beauchamp Pl (Map 14 A1) Notting Hill Arts Club (p144) 6 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia 21 Notting Hill Gate (Map 7 E4) Centre/Soho Miller’s Residence (p186) West/Notting Hill & 111a Westbourne Grove Trailer H (p143) Westbourne Park The Metropolitan (p182) (Map 7 E3) 177 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) West/Notting Hill & West/Notting Hill & Substation South (p165) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Westbourne Park Westbourne Park Trinity Road (1 Brixton) South/Brixton One Aldwych (p180) The Portobello (p186) Vertigo (p145) 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) 22 Stanley Gardens (Map 6 D3) Level 42, Tower 42, Turnmills (p146) Centre/Covent Garden West/Notting Hill & 25 Old Broad St (Map 10 D2) 63a Clerkenwell Rd Westbourne Park City & East/The City (Map 10 B1) Ritz (p183) City & East/Clerkenwell 150 Piccadilly (Map 8 D4) Topham Belgravia (p183) Vibe Bar (p148) www.theritzlondon.com 28 Ebury Street (Map 14 D2) Old Truman Brewery, Vauxhall Tavern (p153) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s West/Knightsbridge & 91–5 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) 372 Kennington Lane Belgravia City & East/Spitalfields & (Map 15 H4) The Rookery (p188) Whitechapel South/Kennington Peter’s La, Cowcross St The Zetter (p188) (Map 10 B1) 86–8 Clerkenwell Road Zeta Bar (p140) City & East/Clerkenwell (Map 10 B1) Mayfair Hilton Hotel, City & East/Clerkenwell 35 Hertford Street (Map 8 C5) The Savoy (p183) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Hotels Strand (Map 9 G4) Cheap www.savoygroup.com Zigfrid (p162) Expensive Centre/Covent Garden Abbey House (p186) 11 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) 11 Vicarage Gate (Map 7 E5) City & East/Shoreditch Blakes (p185) Moderate West/Kensington 33 Roland Gardens Clubs (Map 13 G3) City Inn Crescent Hotel (p181) West/Chelsea & Fulham Westminster (p184) 49–50 Cartwright 333 (p147) 30 John Islip Street Gardens (Map 3 F5) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) Charlotte Street Hotel (p181) (Map 15 F3) Centre/Bloomsbury City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton 15 Charlotte Street Centre/Westminster & Pimlico (Map 9 E2) Dover Hotel (p183) 93 Feet East (p148) Centre/Fitzrovia The Colonnade (p185) 42–4 Belgrave Rd (Map 15 E3) 150 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) 2 Warrington Cres Centre/Westminster & Pimlico City & East/Spitalfields & Claridge’s (p183) (Map 7 F1) Whitechapel Brook St (Map 8 D3) West/Bayswater & Paddington La Gaffe (p188) www.savoygroup.com 107–11 Heath Street (Map 1 A4) Fabric (p145) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Durrants (p182) North/Hampstead 77a Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) George Street (Map 8 B2) City & East/Clerkenwell Covent Garden Centre/Marylebone Generator (p181) Hotel (p180) Compton Place (Map 3 G5) Fridge/Fridge Bar (p153) 10 Monm0uth St (Map 9 F3) Five Sumner Place (p184) Centre/Bloomsbury 1 Town Hall Parade (1 Brixton) Centre/Covent Garden 5 Sumner Place (Map 13 H3) South/Brixton West/Chelsea & Fulham Mayflower (p184) Dorchester (p183) 26–8 Trebovir Rd (Map 13 E3) Heaven (p136) Park Lane (Map 8 C4) Hamilton House (p189) West/Kensington Under the Arches, www.dorchesterhotel.com 14 West Grove (Map 16 C4) Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s South/Greenwich & Deptford Centre/Covent Garden

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181) 229 Travel Information

London’s Underground train (“Tube”) and bus networks are extensive Advance Booking Option and easy to navigate, though frequently crowded and subject to for Overseas Visitors delays. A weekday Congestion Charge for drivers has recently been Visitors planning to travel to London introduced in the centre of town.This has freed up traffic flow, from Europe, the US, Australia and making bus and taxi journeys noticeably quicker, and improving the several other countries can purchase atmosphere for cyclists and pedestrians. Numerous guided tours are a Visitor in advance available, and riverboats offer a fantastic way to see the city. through www.ticket-on-line.com. This covers unlimited travel on all trains, Arrival Stansted Airport buses and the DLR, and there’s an There are five international airports trains depart from option for the . The near London, of which Heathrow is the the airport every 15–30 minutes; the card is not available in the UK itself. busiest. Waterloo is the terminal for journey to Liverpool Street Station trains coming from mainland Europe. takes 45 minutes. There is also a stan- From these international points of dard stopping train once an hour. The The Underground network stretches to entry there are various ways to travel A6 coach into central London is a bit 275 stations across the city. Trains run into central London. cheaper but takes at least 90 minutes. from about 5:30am to 11:30pm or 1am, depending on the line. This is the oldest underground train network The Heathrow Express train is the The Thameslink train service runs from in the world and usually offers the fastest and most comfortable way to the airport to a number of central city quickest way to get around town. travel into central London. Trains stations, including Kings Cross, every However, the ageing system is prone depart every 15 minutes and take 5–10 minutes. The journey takes to delays and over-crowding. Tickets 15–20 minutes to travel non-stop to 30–40 minutes. are expensive in comparison with the Paddington Station. The cheapest cost of travel in other major option for time-rich travellers is a Tube world cities. train (Piccadilly Line), which takes A shuttle bus runs between this small Journeys are priced according to about an hour into central London. airport and Liverpool Street Station, zones radiating out from the city centre You can also catch the A2 bus. A taxi via Canary Wharf, every 10 minutes (Zone 1) to the far reaches of Greater into central London is the most during peak hours. Otherwise, you London (Zone 6). If you have missed expensive option (about £45), unless can take a taxi into town. buying a Visitor Travelcard (see above), you are travelling in a group of five. there are various options, including Waterloo International Terminal the basic Travelcard, which covers Waterloo Station, on the South Bank unlimited travel on the Tube, buses Gatwick is about 30 miles south of of the Thames, is served by the Under- and DLR (). central London. The ground’s Bakerloo, Jubilee and Nor- There are daily (available after train usually runs every 15 minutes thern Lines. There are also taxi ranks 9:30am), weekend or 7-day options. and takes about 30 minutes to travel and numerous bus stops outside. If you’re travelling sporadically within non-stop to London’s Victoria Station. Zone 1, buy a so-called “Carnet” of 10 There are also slightly cheaper, stan- Getting Around discounted single tickets. dard stopping services into Victoria Tube trains, buses and taxis are If you are travelling around London and King’s Cross Stations. A taxi into plentiful. Overland trains serve the for more than a week, consider buying London will cost about £100. suburbs and beyond. a rechargeable Oystercard

230 For detailed, up-to-the minute travel information, visit www.elondon.dk.com Travel Information

(www.oyster card.com). Holders of Taxis Oystercards need only touch the card Classic black cabs are plentiful in Directory to the yellow pad on the turnstiles, central London, but tariffs are high, Airports and can recharge at the pad on the especially after 8pm and at weekends. www.baa.co.uk (Heathrow, Gatwick & Stansted) ticket machines. Licensed minicabs (from offices) are www.londoncityairport.com usually cheaper. Association of Professional Buses Tourist Guides Buses are cheaper than the Tube and Other Forms of Transport 020 7505 3073 www.aptg.org.uk are a great way to get to see London, Pedicabs (or rickshaws) congregate in but try to avoid rush hours Soho and some other areas, offering Black Cabs 020 7432 1432 (7:30– 9:30am and 5–7pm). short hops. They are unregulated, www.londonradiocars.com The flat fare is £1.20. In central though, and can be expensive. www.dialacab.co.uk London, you must buy a ticket before There are several riverboat services Black Taxi Tours of London boarding – look for a ticket machine at along the Thames (see pp12 & 113) – 020 7935 9363 the bus stop or buy a booklet of six Travelcard holders get one-third off www.blacktaxitours.co.uk discounted Saver tickets from Tube the fare on some routes. Canalboats Congestion Charge stations and some newsagents. Night are operated by The London Waterbus 0845 900 1234 / www.cclondon.com buses operate 11pm–6am with a Company. Trams are making a Kairos in Soho separate scale of fares. comeback in some suburban areas. 020 7437 6063 www.kairosinsoho.org.uk

Car Tours London Open House www.londonopenhouse.org Driving around and parking in London A qualified Blue Badge guide can be The London Waterbus Company is frustrating and expensive. A booked for either a general sightsee- 020 7482 2660 Congestion Charge of £5 is levied on ing tour or something tailor-made – www.londonwaterbus.com all cars travelling through the city see the Association of Professional The Original London Walks centre between 7am and 6:30pm on Tourist Guides’ website for individual 020 7624 3978 / www.walks.com weekdays. “C” signs mark the profiles or book through their recom- Tour Guides Ltd boundaries of the Congestion mended agency, Tour Guides Ltd. 020 7495 5504 Charging zone, and cameras record Black Taxi Tours of London offers Trains every car. You can pay online (see qualified tour guides too. Heathrow Express 0845 600 1515 directory), or at selected newsagents The Original London Walks is a www.heathrowexpress.com and garages. A hefty fine will be good one to try for themed strolls – Gatwick Express 0845 850 1530 issued if you fail to pay before actors, experts and historians lead www.gatwickexpress.com midnight. Speeding, using bus lanes tours such as Ghosts, Gaslight and Enquiries 08457 484950 and stopping in box junctions also Guinness, or Jack the Ripper Haunts in www.nationalrail.co.uk attract fines. the East End. Wellbeing centre Kairos Stansted Express 0845 850 0150 Parking is restricted almost every- in Soho offers a historical walking tour www.stanstedexpress.co.uk where. Read street parking signs of Gay and Lesbian Soho. London Thameslink www.thameslink.co.uk carefully or you’ll probably return to a Open House runs Saturday-morning penalty notice or clamped wheel. tours led by architects and historians. The Tube, buses, DLR, taxis, riverboats & trams It’s best to use NCP car parks Consult Time Out magazine for other 020 7222 1234 / www.tfl.gov.uk (www.ncp.co.uk) if in doubt. unusual themed walks.

The Docklands Light Railway (DLR) is part of the Underground network 231 Practical Information

The information and tips here should help you have a stress-free Listings/What’s On visit to London. Some forward planning is often beneficial – start Time Out is London’s hippest and with the websites offering tourist information and listing events. most comprehensive weekly listings Visitors with special needs, such as wheelchair users, are supported magazine, covering new shops and by a number of dedicated organizations, and gay and lesbian restaurants as well as arts and travellers are particularly well catered for in this city. entertainment. It has an online guide, www.timeout.com/london. Disabled Travellers See the Hospital Charges website for Metro Life, free with Thursday’s Recent changes to the Disability full details of exemptions. Evening Standard newspaper, is a Discrimination Act require anyone who If you require an emergency good guide to goings-on in the city. It provides a service to the public to prescription or less urgent medical is affiliated to www.thisislondon.com. make it accessible to disabled people, attention, the private Medicentre The Knowledge, in The Times on within reason. Equal-access campaigner chain offers walk-in clinics. Branches Saturday, rounds up London listings Artsline has a constantly expanding are located in train stations, central in a handy format. online database listing over 400 arts London and the City. and entertainment venues and their If you need advice outside clinic Money provisions for sensory-impaired people hours, call Doctors Direct to arrange a There’s no shortage of bureaux de and wheelchair users. A factsheet home visit or refer to the NHS Direct change in the city, but you may get a from Greater London Action on website’s useful self-help guide. better exchange rate if you use your Disability gives details of what to Pharmacies are a good first stop bank or credit card to obtain cash expect at well-known tourist attractions, for minor ailments. For late-night from ATMs. The practice of keying in and another lists accessible hotels. prescriptions, Bliss Pharmacy is open your PIN number rather than signing a Improvements to the accessibility of until midnight, while Zafash is credit card slip at point of purchase is the Tube are in progress, but at present London’s only 24-hour pharmacy. being introduced in many businesses. only 40 stations can be reached without using stairs or escalators. For Gay & Lesbian Travellers Opening Hours a copy of Access to the Underground, Soho is London’s pink mecca, with London closes early in comparison with call 020 7941 4600. Buses are better the highest concentration of bars, cities such as New York or Paris. Most – over 90% of the bus fleet has clubs and gay-oriented shops. There shops are open from 10am–6pm wheelchair access. is an established scene in Brixton, Monday to Saturday, staying open an and nightspots have also sprung up hour or two later on Wednesday or Emergencies & Health in Vauxhall. Free pink paper Boyz, Thursday. Many open from noon to In the event of a serious accident, available in gay bars and businesses 5pm or 6pm on Sunday. Some major medical emergency, fire or criminal and online, features London listings. department stores, such as Harvey incident requiring urgent assistance, The Gay Times website has useful Nichols and Selfridges, stay open call 999 and specify ambulance, fire links to services from arts centres and until 8pm every week night. service or police. Calls from any bars to shops and support, while Restaurants tend to close at 11pm phone, including payphones, are free. lesbian magazine Diva offers online or midnight (last servings 10–10:30), Citizens of the European Economic area-by-area mini guides. The London and pubs call “time” at 11pm, 10:30pm Area and countries with a bilateral Lesbian and Gay Switchboard has a on Sundays (the law changed in 2005, healthcare agreement with the UK are 24-hour helpline. For recommended technically allowing longer hours). exempt from hospital A&E charges. bars and clubs, see p134. Bars with extended opening hours

232 Check out the weather forecast at www.elondon.dk.com Practical Information usually offer some form of enter- your bag close to the front of your tainment, such as live music or DJs. body and your wits about you. Mobile Directory Most nightclubs close at 3am, though phone theft is common, particularly Artsline some stay open until 6am at weekends. from just outside Tube stations. Be 020 7388 2227 www.artslineonline.com Banks are open from 9:30am to alert when using ATMs, as they have 3:30pm or 4:30pm Monday to Friday, been the target of various scams. Bliss Pharmacy 5-6 Marble Arch, W1 (Map 8 B3) and post offices from 9am to 5:30pm Don’t use a machine that looks Britain and London on weekdays. Some banks and post unusual, such as any that seem to be Visitor Centre offices are open on Saturday morning. fitted with extra attachments. Make 1 Regent Street, SW1 (Map 9 E4) sure no-one behind you can see while 020 8846 9000 • www.visitbritain.com Phones and you key in your PIN. Unlicensed Directory Enquiries Communications minicabs also pose many dangers, 118 118 •118 500 • 118 180 • 118 888 Public telephones may be less especially to single women. Never Doctors Direct plentiful than they once were because accept a lift from a driver touting for 020 7751 9701 www.doctorsdirect.co.uk of the proliferation of mobile phones, fares on the street. but they have become more Emergency Services 999 sophisticated. At BT Internet kiosks, Tipping you can surf the Internet, send and As a guide, if service has been good, Gay & Lesbian 020 7837 7324 (24-hour helpline) receive emails, or send a video text give 10–15 per cent to waiters (unless www.llgs.org.uk message as well as make a phone a service charge has already been www.gaytimes.co.uk call. For long-distance calls, it’s worth added to the bill), hairdressers, www.gaylondon.com www.divamag.co.uk buying an international phone card, beauty therapists and taxi drivers. It is www.timeout.com/london available from newsagents, which not customary to tip in pubs, even if Greater London Action gives you an access number and code you order food, but tipping is on Disability for a cheaper rate. becoming more common in posh www.glad.org.uk Most mobile phones in the UK, cocktail bars that employ expert Hospital Charges Europe and Australia operate on GSM “mixologists”. In hotels, £1–2 is a www.publications.doh.gov.uk/ overseasvisitors/index.htm 900MHz or 1800MHz frequency bands. standard tip for luggage porters. Visitors from the US and Canada will London Information Centre Leicester Square, W1 (Map 9 F4) need a tri-band phone to connect with Tourist Information 020 7292 2333 a UK network – check with your London’s official tourist organization www.londoninformationcentre.com service provider before travelling. is Visit London. Its excellent website www.londontown.com The easyInternetcafé chain contains a comprehensive directory, Medicentre (www.easyeverything.com) dominates including bureaux de change, Internet 0870 600 0870 www.medicentre.co.uk the drop-in web-surfing scene, but the cafés and hospitals. There are also city is dotted with numerous small sections for gay and lesbian, and NHS Direct 0845 4647 • www.nhsdirect.nhs.uk Internet cafés. disabled visitors. The official Britain and London Visitor Centre is near Visit London www.visitlondon.com Security Piccadilly Circus. The privately run Zafash Pharmacy Crowded pubs, train stations and London Information Centre in 233–5 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 shops are prime spots for bag- Leicester Square operates in tandem (Map 13 G3) snatchers and pickpockets, so keep with www.londontown.com.

Whatever the weather, carry an umbrella! 233 General Index

2 Willow Road 107 Art Galleries 15, 110, 225 Brockwell Lido 14 Chinese New Year 10 12-Bar Club 117, 119 Arts Theatre 119 Brompton Cemetery 105 Chisenhale Gallery 110 19 Princelet Street 103 ARTWORDS 162 Brompton Oratory 101 The Chocolate Society 76 93 Feet East 135, 148, 160 Atlantic Bar & Grill 137 Browns 59, 70 Churches 226 202 (shop) 80 Brunch in Notting Hill 13 Chutney Mary 40 333 (club) 147 B Buckingham Palace 96 Cinemas 15, 227 606 Club 117, 123 b Store 59, 67 Bug Bar & Lounge 154, 165 Cinnamon Club 37 BAC 131 Bunhill Fields Burial Ground 169 City Inn Westminster 184 A Bagels 19 Bunny London 91 Claridge’s 178 Abbey House 179, 186 Banqueting House 96, 99 Burberry 69 Classical Music Venues 116, see Abney Park Cemetery 105, 173 Bar & Kitchen 147 Burro 60 also Concerts and Music Venues Accessories 225 Barbican 124 Busaba Eathai 43 Clothes Shops, see Fashion The Admiralty 94 Bar Italia 19, 158 Buses 233 Boutiques The Agency 110, 162 Bar Kick 162 Club 333 18 A Gold 59, 87 Bar Rumba 138 C Clubbing 17, 18, 135 Adam, Robert 108 Bars 227–8 Café Corfu 50 Clubs 228 After Noah 89 Bed 159 Café Emm 23, 25 Club Gascon 47 Afternoon Tea 15 Bedstock 83 Café Grove 159 Coach & Horses 16, 144 Agent Provocateur 67 Beigel Bake 19 Café Kick 145 Cocktails 17, 135 Agnès B 60 Belgo 43 Cafés 220 Cock Tavern 12 Airports 232 Berkeley Square 108 Café Spice Namaste 46 Coco de Mer 61 Albion 153 Bibendum Oyster Bar 17 Calder Bookshop 91 Coco Ribbon 84 Al Sultan 34 Bill Amberg 81 Calmia 73 Coin Street Festival 11 Al Waha 43 Birdcage 161 Camden Arts Centre 106 Collins & Son 62 All Saints 62 Black & Blum 91 Camden Head 90 The Colonnade 185 Almeida 116, 126 Black Friar 135 Camden Lock 163 Columbia Road Market 13, 161 The American Bar 137 Blackwell’s 65 Camden Passage 58, 90 Combined Arts Venues 227 Anchor Bankside 154, 164 Blakes 178, 185 Camisa 158 Comedy Venues 17, 117, 227 Andrew Edmunds 22, 24 Bleinhem Books 159 Camper 60 Comedy Café 117, 125 Anello & Davide 72 Bloomsbury Square 108 Canary Wharf 106 Comedy Store 17, 117, 121 Anna 90 Blue Anchor 154 Cantaloupe 162 Comfort & Joy 88 Annie’s Vintage Clothes 90 Blue Bar 135, 142 Cantina Vinopolis 163 Communications 230 Antiquarius 80 Blueprint Café 52 Le Caprice 31 Concerts Any Amount of Books 65 Boat Trips 12, 113, 233 Cargo 17, 146 Lunchtime Recitals 14 Anya Hindmarch 76 Bodean’s 24 Carluccio’s 72 Morning Coffee Concerts 13 Anything Left-Handed 67 Bodo Sperlein 91 Caroline Carrier’s 90 South Bank 18 Apartment 195 142 Bookshops 222 Cecconi’s 31 The Conran Shop 58, 78 The Approach 15, 110 Borderline 116, 119 Cecil Court 64 Contemporary Art, see Art Galleries aQuaint 59, 61 Borders 65 Cemeteries 105, 226 Contemporary Wardrobe 63 Aquarium, see London Aquarium Borough Market 163 Chain Restaurants 43 Courtauld Institute of Art Aram 58, 60 Bread & Roses 155 Chain Stores 85 Gallery 94 Aria 89 Breakfast at Smithfield 12 Champagne 17 Courtauld, Stephen 113 Arkansas Café 160 Brick Lane 160 Champor-Champor 52 Covent Garden Hotel 179, 180 Artcadia 87 Bricklayer’s Arms 162 Charing Cross Road 65 The Cow 160 Art & Architecture 20–55 The Bridge House Canal Charlotte Street Hotel 181 Crescent Hotel 178, 181 For art & architecture listed by Theatre Café 171 Chelsea Flower Show 10 Cricket 131 area, see pp212–19 British Museum 13, 98 Chelsea Physic Gardens 171 The Cross 85 For art & architecture listed by Brixton 165 Cherry Jam 17, 134, 141 The Crown, Clerkenwell 16 type, see pp225–7 Brixton Academy 165 Cheshire Street 88 The Crown, Islington 22, 134, 151 The Art Boat 100, 113 Brixtonian Havan Club 165 Chez Bruce 55 Curries 19

234 A – H

Curzon Soho 120 Embassy Bar 150 French House 135, 144, 158 Great Eastern Dining Room 48 The Cut 91 Emergencies 230–31 Freud Museum 108 Great Eastern Hotel 178, 187 Cutty Sark 174 Empire 123 Fridge/Fridge Bar 134, 153, 165 Green Papaya 48 Cyberdog 62 The End 141 Frieze Art Fair 11 Greenwich 113, 174 The Endurance 138 La Fromagerie 74 Greenwich Park 174 D ENO @ The Coliseum 119 Fujiyama 165 Greenwich Union 134 Dakota 13 Entertainment, see Performance Future Systems 107 Greyhound Racing 16 Dance Venues 116, 227 Erickson Beamon 76 Grimshaw, Nicholas 107 Daunt Books 74 The Escape Bar 158 G Guided Tours 14, 233 David Drummond 64 Estorick Collection 106 Gabriel’s Wharf 164 Dennis Severs’ House 18, 104 Everyman 128 La Gaffe 188 H Department Stores 79, 222 Exhibition Road 102 Gagosian 110 Hackney Empire 117, 125 Design Museum 110 Exhibition spaces, see Art Galleries La Galette 36 Hackney Marshes 15 Designers Guild 80 Galicia 159 Hakkasan 23, 27 Diesel 60 F Galleries, see Art Galleries Hamilton House 178, 189 Dining Room 40 Fabric 18, 135, 145 Gallipoli 49 Hampstead Heath 172 Directory Enquiries 231 Falkiner Fine Papers 63 Gastropubs 221 Hampstead Theatre 128 Disabled Travellers 231 Farmacia 168 The Gate 41 Hampton Court Palace 12, 96, 113 The Dispensary 68 Fashion boutiques 222–4 Gatwick Airport 232 Hampton Court Flower Show 10 DJ Bars 19, 134 FCUK 85 G-A-Y 158 Harrods 79 Dr Johnson’s House 98 Fenton House 107 Gay and Lesbian Travellers 231 Harvey Nichols 17, 79 Dog & Duck 16 Fenwick 79 GayBars& Clubs134 Havens 166–75 Dogstar 154, 165 Festival Hall 18, 116, 129 Gay Hussar 158 Hayward Gallery 109, 164 Donmar Warehouse 116, 118 Fifteen 34 Gay’s the Word 64 Hazlitt’s 179, 181 Donzoko 24 Fifth Floor Restaurant, Harvey Geffrye Museum 105 Hazuki 31 The Dorchester 178 Nichols 17 Generator 181 Health & Beauty Shops 224 Dorset Square 183 Film, see cinemas, London Film George Inn 163 Heaven 134, 136 The Dove 154 Festival & NFT George’s Portobello Fish Bar 159 Heathrow Airport 232 Dover Hotel 179, 183 Fino 28 George IV 165 Henry Pordes 65 Dovetail 16 Fish! 163 Georgian Squares 108 Herbal 18, 135, 147 The Drapers Arms 49 Fish Central 22, 45 Georgina Goodman 69 Hermitage Rooms 94 Dream Bags/Jaguar Shoes 162 Fitzroy Tavern 144 Gerry’s 66 Herzog & de Meuron 111, 130 Duchamp 82 Five Sumner Place 184 Gilbert Collection 94 Highgate Cemetery 105, 173 Duke of Cambridge 15 Flâneur Food Hall 45 Gill Wing 89 Highgate Woods 173 Dulwich Picture Gallery 112 The Flask 173 Giraffe 43 Hilton, London Docklands 189 Durrants 182 Floral Street 60 Globe, see Shakespeare’s Globe Hirst, Damien 100 Florists 224 Globe Tavern 163 Historic Buildings 226 E Fluid 146 Gloria’s Super Deluxe 160 Holiday Inn Express 179, 189 The Eagle 22, 44 Foliage 37 Golborne Grove 143, 159 Holland Park 170 Eagle Bar Diner 27 Food Shops 224 Golden Heart 149 Honest Jon’s 83 E&O 42 Football 15, 131 Golden Hind 34 Hopkins, Michael 107 Earlham Street 62 For Design Sake 91 Golden Square 108 Horseshoe 16 Eatmyhandbagbitch 64 Forbidden Planet 63 Goldfinger, Ernö 107 Hospitals 230–31 Ecapital 25 Fortnum & Mason 79 Gordon Ramsay 34 Hotels 176–189 Elbow Room 161 Foster, Norman 98, 100 Gordon’s Wine Bar 136 Bookings & Reservations 186 Elemis Day Spa 169 Founders Arms 154 Graham & Green 58, 85, 90 Top Choices 178–9 Electric Cinema 15, 123, 159 Fox & Anchor 12 Grammex 91 For hotels listed by area, Elizabeth Street 76 Foyles 65 The Grapes 154 see pp213–19 Eltham Palace 96, 113 The Franklin 179, 184 Great Court & Reading Room, For hotels listed by price El Parador 50 Freemason’s Arms 153 British Museum 98 category, see p229

235 General Index

The House 22, 49 Keats House 108 London Underground 232 Medicine Bar 150 Houses of Parliament 113 Kensal Green Cemetery 105 Lonsdale 143 Mercure London City Bankside 189 Hoxton 162 Kensington Gardens 169 Lord’s 107 Mesón Don Felipe 53 Hoxton Boutique 86 Kensington Palace 96 Lots Road Pub & Dining Room 40 Metropolitan 178, 182 Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen 162 Kenwood House 108 Loungelover 134, 149 Miller’s Residence 178, 186 Hunan 38 Kew Gardens 12, 113, 175 Lower Marsh 91 Miller Harris 81 Hyde Park 16, 169 Kiehl’s 61 Lucky 7 160 Mimi 88 Kiku 33 Lulu Guiness 58, 77 Ministry of Sound 153 I King’s Head Theatre Bar 17, 127 Mint 58, 73 ICA 17, 96 Kirk Original 60 M Mô 23, 34 Ichiban 165 Koh Samui 61 Mac Bar 152 Modern Architecture 226 Indian Head Massage 168 Kokon To-Zai 66 Madame Jo-Jos 138, 158 Money 230 Inexterior 88 Korres 79 Madeleine Press 74 Monmouth Street 61 Inigo Jones 99, 112 Kovolam 52 Magic Wok 43 Moro 23, 44 Inn the Park 15 Ktchn 162 Magma 62 Mother/333 147 Interiors Shops 224 Maharishi 60 Mulberry 69, 72 Intoxica! 83 L Malmaison 179, 187 Museum in Docklands 106 Island Queen 151 Laban Centre 116, 130 Mana 51 Museum Late Nights 16 Itsu 43 Labour and Wait 88 Mango Room 51 Museum of the Order of St John 104 Iveagh Bequest, see Kenwood House Labour of Love 89 Marchpane 64 Museums 226–7 The Ivy 34 The Lamb 134, 141 Margaret Howell 72 Music Shops 224–5 Lamb & Flag 16, 135, 137 Maria Grachvogel 75 Music Venues 116–17, 227 J The Lansdowne 15, 51 Marilyn Moore 84 J&M Davidson 81 Lara Bohinc 86, 107 Marimekko 72 N James Smith & Sons 59, 63 Laxeiro 161 Mar i Terra 24 Nag’s Head 141 Jazz Café 19, 117, 127 Leighton House Museum 103 Market Bar 159 National Film Theatre (NFT) 130, Jazz Venues 19, 117 Lesbian Travellers 231 Market Coffee House 161 164 Jerusalem 139 Les Senteurs 75 Market Place 140 National Gallery 95 Jerusalem Tavern 146 Liberty 68 Market Porter 163 National Portrait Gallery 96 Jerwood Space 109 Lina Stores 158 Markets National Theatre, see Royal Jess James 68 Lindsay House 22, 26 Borough 163 National Theatre Jigsaw 85 Lingerie 224 Brick Lane 160 Natural History Museum 102 Jimmy Choo 58, 77 Linley Sambourne House 102 Camden Lock 163 Navarro’s 23, 28 John Lewis 79 Lisboa Patisserie 23, 42, 159 Columbia Road 162 Neal’s Yard Dairy 59, 62 Johnson, Dr 98 Lisson 110 Northcote Road 165 Neisha Crosland 77 Jo Malone 75 Listings Magazines 230 Portobello 159 Nelson’s Head 161 Jones 60 Little Venice 12, 171 Spitalfields 162 Neon 165 Jones, Inigo 99, 112 Livebait 53 Marks & Spencer 85 Newburgh Street 68 Jongleurs 17, 128 Lobby Bar 17, 135, 136 Mar Mar Co 88 NFT (National Film Theatre) Joseph 58, 77 Locanda Locatelli 34 Maroush Gardens 36 130, 164 J Sheekey 22, 31 Lock Tavern 15, 152, 153 Marriott 189 Nicole Farhi 60 Jubilee Photographica 90 Loch Fyne Oyster Bar 163 Masala Zone 43 Nigel Williams 64 Judith Lasalle 90 London Aquarium 113 Mash 140 Nobu 34 Junky 160 London Bridge Hotel 178, 189 Mass 165 Northcote Road 165 JW Beeton 82 London City Airport 232 Masters Super Fish 53 Notting Hill Arts Club 17, 135, London Eye 18, 113 Matsuri 29 144 K London Film Festival 11 Matt’s Gallery 110 Notting Hill Carnival 11, 17 Karen Millen 85 London Garden Squares Weekend Mayflower 184 Noura 38 Kate Kuba 79 108 MCC Museum 107 N Peal 70 Kaya 33 London Marathon 10 Mean Fiddler 120 Nunhead Cemetery 105

236 H – S

O Patrick Cox 75 Pubs, Bars & Clubs (cont.) Ritzy 131, 165 The Oak 160 Paul 23, 29 Clubs 228 Riverboat Services 12, 113, 233 Odette’s 22, 50 Paul Rothe 73 Notorious Pubs & Literary The River Café 41 Oki-ni 59, 68 Paul Smith 58, 60, 84 Haunts 144 Riverside Studios 124 Old Observatory, Greenwich 174 Performance 114–31 Riverside Pubs 154 Rivington Bar and Grill 161 Old Operating Theatre 110 Top Choices 116–17 Top Choices 134–5 Rock & Sole Plaice 29 Old Red Lion 17 For performance venues listed by For pubs, bars and clubs listed Rock Archive 90 Old Royal Naval College 174 area, see pp212–19 by area, see pp213–19 Rokit 59, 88 Old Vic 130 For performance venues listed by Purcell Room 18, 129 Ronnie Scotts 19, 117, 121 Oliver Sweeney 79 type, see p227 Putney Bridge 55 The Rookery 188 One Aldwych 178, 180 Persiflage 59 Rosa’s 160 Open Garden Squares Weekend 10 Le Petit Max 55 Q Rough Trade 81 Open House Weekend 11 Philip Treacy 58, 76 Queen Elizabeth Hall 18, 129 Royal Academy 100 Opening Hours 231 Phoenix Palace 36 Queen’s Gallery 96 Royal Festival Hall 18, 116, 129 Opera Holland Park 10 Phonica 67 Queen’s House 96, 112 Royal Inn on the Park 153 Opera House, see Royal Opera Photographers’ Gallery 95 Queen’s Square 108 Royal National Theatre House Pillars of Hercules 144 Quinto 65 116, 129, 164 Orangery, Kensington Gardens 170 Pineapple 151 Royal Oak 163 Orangery, Kew 175 PJ Hilton 64 R Royal Opera House 116, 118 Orange Tree Theatre 17 The Place 116, 122 Rachel Skinner 90 The Royal Parks 169 Origin 90 The Player 139 Racine 39 Royal Sights 96 Original London Walks 100, 223 The Poetry Café 118 Radio Days 91 Rugby 131 Original Tagines 36 Poilane 76 Rail Terminals 232 Rules 22, 30 The Orrery 35 Pool 161 Randall & Aubin 17, 158 Oshobasho Café 173 Porchester Spa 15, 170 Ransome’s Dock 55 S Osprey 72 Portobello Green 59, 83, 159 Rasa Samudra 28 Saatchi Gallery 109, 113 Outdoor Concerts 10 The Portobello 178, 186 Ray’s Jazz 65 Sackler Wing, RA 100 Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar & Portobello Road 13, 159 The Reading Room, British Sadie Coles HQ 110 Brasserie 22, 54, 91 Poste 70 Museum 98 Sadler’s Wells 116, 126 Oxo Tower Wharf 91 Poste Mistress 61 The Real Greek 48 Sainsbury Wing, Oysters 17 Practical Information 230–31 Red Fort 27 National Gallery 95 Preen 83 Red Hot 83 St Bartholomew the Great 103 P Prestat 75 Red Dot 68 St Bride’s 14, 100 The Painted Heron 40 Pride London 11 Regent’s Park 13, 169 St Christopher’s Place 72 El Parador 50 Pride of Spitalfields 134, 148 Rellik 85 St James’s Piccadilly 14, 100 Parks & Gardens Primrose Hill Shopping 90 REN 69 St John 22, 46 Bunhill Fields 169 Primrose Hill Books 90 Restaurants 20–55 St James’s Park 169 Chelsea Physic Garden 171 Prince Charles Cinema 121 Cafés 220 St James’s Square 108 Greenwich Park 174 19 Princelet Street 103 Chain Restaurants 43 St John’s Smith Square Hampstead Heath 172 Prince of Wales 155 Gastropubs 221 116, 122 Highgate Woods 173 Pringle 69 Hottest Tables 34 St Margaret’s Church 96, 99, 113 Holland Park 170 Prints & Posters 225 Top Choices 22–3 St Martin-in-the-Fields 14 Kew Gardens 175 The Proms 11 Vegetarian 222 St Mary-le-Bow 14, 100 Temple 168 Prospect of Whitby 154 For restaurants listed by area, St Olave’s 169 Victoria Embankment The Providores/Tapa Room 23, 35 see pp210–18 St Paul’s Cathedral 100 Gardens 168 Public Beware 160 For restaurants listed by cuisine, St Stephen Walbrook 100 Parliament Hill Lido 12 Pubs 228–9 see pp220–22 Saloon 86 Patara 33 Pubs, Bars & Clubs 132–55 RIBA 97 S&M Café 23, 42 Patisserie Valerie 23, 26, 158 Bars 227–8 Richmond 12 Sardo 29 Patogh 37 Beer Gardens 144 The Ritz 183 Satay Bar 165

237 General Index

Satay House 43 South London Gallery 110 Three Kings 16 Vintage Fashion 59 The Savoy 183 Southwark Cathedral 164 Thyme 25 Vinyl Junkies 158 Scala 126 Space.NK 80 Tickets Visit London 231 Scent Systems 68 Spaniards Inn 153 Sporting Events 131 Science Museum 102 Spitalfields Market 14, 161 West End Shows 120 W Scorah Pattullo 89 Spitz 124 Tindley & Chapman 64 Wagamama 43 Seasonal Events 10–11 Spymaster 70 The Tintin Shop 60 Walks 12, 13, 16 Security 230 Spas & Treatments Tipping 231 see also Hampstead Heath, Tours Selectadisc 158 Elemis 169 Tom Aikens 39 and Original London Walks Selfridges 71, 79, 80, 202 Farmacia 168 Tongue & Groove 165 The Wallace Collection 101 Les Senteurs 75 Porchester Hall 170 Tonic 82 Walthamstow Stadium 16 Serpentine Gallery 101 Spaniards Inn 153 Tophams Belgravia 183 Wapping Project Space 105 Serpentine Lido 12 Stage Door Prints 64 Topshop 68 Waterloo International Rail Shakespeare’s Globe 130, 164 Stansted Airport 232 Tourist Information 230 Terminal 232 Shelf 88 Stella McCartney 58, 70 Tours 14, 233 Weekend Café 173 Shepherd’s Bush Empire 117, 123 Stephen Friedman 110 Tower of London 96 The Wells 51 Shipley 65 Stingray Global Café 161 Townhouse 142 The Westbourne 160 Shipley Media 65 Storey’s 64 Tracey Boyd 76 Westbourne Park 160 Shoes & Accessories 225 Story 87 Trade at Turnmills 134 West End Shows, see Theatres Shop 66 Strada 43 Trafalgar Tavern 135, 155, 174 Westminster Abbey 96, 99, 113 Shopping 56–91 Streetlife 156–65 Trailer H 135, 143 What the Butler Wore 91 Chain Stores 85 Studio Perfumery 90 Transport 232–3 The Wheatsheaf 163 Department Stores 79 Stüssy 62 Transport for London 233 Whistles 72 Top Choices 58–9 StyleLab 60 Travel Bookshop 159 White Cross 154 Traditional British Brands 69 Substation South 165 Travel Cards 232 White Cube 110, 162 For shops listed by area, The Sugar Club 25 Travel Inn 179, 189 Whitechapel Gallery 104 see pp210–19 Suite 20, 83 Tricycle 116, 129 The Whopee Club 19 For shops listed by type, Sutton Arms 45 Tsunami 23, 54 Wigmore Hall 13, 116, 122 see pp222–5 Swimming 12 The Tube 232 Wild at Heart 160 Showroom 15 Turnmills 18 The Wild Bunch 62 Silver Moon, see Foyles T twentytwentyone 89 Wilkinson Gallery 15, 110 Simon Finch Rare Books 82 Tamarind 33 Willma 84 Sir John Soane’s Museum 18, 97 Tapa Room 35 U 2 Willow Road 107 see also Soane, Sir John Tas 23, 53 The Underground 232 Windmill 153 Sixty 6 73 Tate Britain 99, 100, 113 Union Chapel 127 Windsor Castle 144 Size? 62 Tate Modern 16, 100, 111, 113 Upper Street 89 The Wolseley 15, 32 Skandium 74 Tatty Devine 88 Urban Outfitters 62 Wong Kei 25 Sketch 15, 34 Taxis 233 Woodhams 76 Smallfish Records 87 Ted Baker 60 V Wren, Christopher 100, 174 Smiths of Smithfield 45 Telephones 230 V&A 16, 102 Wren’s London 100 Smythson 59, 69 Temple 168 Vauxhall Tavern 134 Soane, Sir John 18, 97, 112 Temple Church 98, 168 Vertigo (bar) 145 Y The Social 17, 134, 140 Tendido Cero 40 Vertigo (shop) 60 Yo! Sushi 43 Soho 158 Tennis 131 Vibe Bar 134, 148, 160 Soho Square 108 Thames, see Riverboat Services Victoria Embankment Gardens 168 Z Soho Theatre 120 Theatre Bars 17, 127 Victorian Cemeteries 105 Zafferano 39 Somerset House 94 Theatre Museum 95 Viet Hoa 23, 48 Zeta Bar 240 Somerset House Ice Rink 11 Theatres 116, 227 Vilma Gold 15 Zetter 179, 188 South Bank 17, 18, 164 Buying Tickets 120 Vinopolis 163, 164 Zigfrid 162 South Bank Centre 129, 164 Thomas Neal Centre 62 Vintage 66 Zuma 39

238 Acknowledgements

Contributors Max Alexander is a New Zealander by birth, but has Jonathan Cox is a writer, editor and photographer who been based in London since 1987. As a freelance has worked for a wide range of publications, including photographer, he has worked on a large number of the Sunday Times and the Time Out London Eating Guide. prestigious publications, travelling extensively to He edited Time Out’s guide to Weekend Breaks. produce 15 travel guides for DK. He has recently For e>>guide London, he wrote the Restaurants chapter. completed a book on Bordeaux & its Wines for Duncan Baird Publishers. Lisa Ritchie is an American based in London, and has written for various magazines and newspapers, Produced by Blue Island Publishing including Time Out and the Evening Standard. www.blueisland.co.uk Lisa was deputy editor of Time Out Shopping Guide Editorial Director Rosalyn Thiro 2004. For e>>guide London, she wrote the Shopping and Art Director Stephen Bere Hotels chapters, as well as the Practical, Travel, Editor Jane Simmonds Seasonal and Top Choices sections. Editorial Assistant Allen Stone Proofreader Val Phoenix Michael Ellis has written for a number of guidebooks Picture Researcher Ellen Root and listings, including the Virgin Guide to London, and Time Out’s guides to London, Eating & Drinking, Pubs & Published by DK Bars, and Weekend Breaks. He has also reviewed exhibi- Publishing Managers Jane Ewart, Vicki Ingle and tions for Frieze and Art Monthly, and produces the annual Anna Streiffert Londoner’s Diary. For e>>guide London, he wrote the Art & Senior Editor Christine Stroyan Architecture, Performance, Streetlife and Havens chapters. Senior Designer Marisa Renzullo Cartographic Editor Casper Morris Andrew Humphreys is a regular bar writer for London’s DTP Designer Jason Little weekly culture and entertainment magazine Time Out, Production Coordinator Louise Minihane and for three years was the editor of the same company’s annual London Pubs & Bars Guide. For e>>guide London, he wrote most of the Pubs, Bars & Clubs chapter.

Peterjon Cresswell is a contributor to Time Out’s annual Pubs & Bars Guide. He is regularly sent on assignment by the London-based HPI Research Group to assess nightlife and drinking trends in major cities across the globe. For e>>guide London, he contributed text for the Pubs, Bars & Clubs chapter.

239 Acknowledgements

PHOTOGRAPHY PERMISSIONS The publishers would like to thank all the churches, Korres Natural Products: 79br; museums, hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs, shops, Locomotiva: 147bl; Loungelover: 149cla; galleries and other sights for their assistance and kind Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park: 37cl; Mash: 140cr; The permission to photograph at their establishments. Metropolitan Hotel: 182t; Ministry of Sound: 153cr; © National Maritime Museum, London: 112b; National Placement Key: t = top; tc = top centre; tca = top centre Trust: 107c, 107b; Network London: 39br; above; tcb = top centre below; tl = top left; Ocean: 125bl; One Aldwych: 136tr, 178tr, 180tl/tr; tr = top right; c = centre; ca = centre above; cl = centre Redferns Music Picture Library: Nicky J. Sims 121tl; left; cla = centre left above; clc = centre left centre; Royal Academy of Arts, London: 100cl; Royal Borough cr = centre right; crc = centre right centre; crb = centre of Kensington and Chelsea: 102br, 103tr; Rules: Gary right below; b = bottom; bl = bottom left; br = bottom Alexander 30cl/bl/r; right; l = left; r = right Sardo: 29t; Scala: 126cl; Selfridges: 71tc/tr/br; Serpentine Gallery: 101cl; Dennis Severs’ House: Deidi Works of art have been reproduced with the permission von Schaewen 104ca; M. Stacey Shaffer 104t; of the following copyright holders: Shakespeare’s Globe: photo John Tramper production Jerwood Space: © Trevor Appleson Uniforms: 109cr Edward II 2003 130cl; Sir John Soane’s Museum: 97tr, The publishers would like to thank the following 97cr; Somerset House Press Office: 94r; South London companies and picture libraries for permission to Gallery: photo Marcus Leith, all works courtesy Tomio reproduce their photographs: Koyama Gallery, , Feature Inc, New York and Atlantic Bar and Grill: 137cl; Stephen Friedman Gallery, London 110br; Stephen Bere: 10cl, 11cr, 63bl, 94tl, 163clc, 169c; Space NK: 80crb; Berkeley Hotel: 17bl, 142tr; Blakes Hotel: 185tl/tr/cl; Tate Britain: 99crb/br, 100tl; Lara Bohinc: 86cr; Walthamstow Stadium: 126tl; Whitechapel Gallery: Cargo: 17tl, 146b; Corbis: Gail Marie Orenstein 11bl; exhibition: Gerhard Richter: Atlas 104br; Reuters/Peter Macdiarmid 10tr Zefa Visual Media: Masterfile/Lloyd Sutton 1, 6–7; Dorset Square Hotel: 183tr; Dulwich Picture Gallery: The Zetter Restaurant & Rooms: 179b, 188tl/tca/tcb. 112tl/cl; Michael Ellis: 107t; The End: 141cl; Everyman Cinema Jacket images Front: Corbis/Pat Doyle (clc and spine); Club: 128br; DK Images/Carrie Love (crc); Getty Images/Julian Calder Fabric: Tom Stapley 19tl, 145bl; Firmdale Hotels: (cl); Courtesy of the Trustees of the V&A Picture 180br, 181cr; Freud Museum: 108tr; Library/Vivienne Westwood (cr); Zefa Visual Gate Restaurant: 41br; Great Eastern Dining Room: Media/masterfile/Lloyd Sutton (background). 48tl; Great Eastern Hotel: 187tl/tr; Back: Zefa Visual Media/masterfile/Lloyd Sutton (c); Hackney Empire: 125tr; Hayward Gallery: 109bl; DK Images/Carrie Love (tr).

240

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