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SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE PLANNER NOV 19 • LONDONPLANNER.COM

GAME ON! PLUS How to watch Royal sights tennis superstars Jazz festivals Stratford- MELTING upon-Avon SPOTS From Chinatown to Brick Lane ISES Y VIKING CRU ED B SENT RAOH PRE PHA F THE GOLDEN ES O

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TICKETS AT £20, £37.50, £57.50, £75, £100 PLUS A LIMITED NUMBER OF PREMIUM SEATS & DAILY LOTTERY HAMILTONMUSICAL.COM | VICTORIA PALACE

AADEL DELFONTFONT MACKINTOSHMACKICKIKIK NNTOSH THEATHEATRETRERE The Mayor’s letter Welcome to London this November Begin your adventure by exploring Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh at the (from 2 Nov), which marks the centenary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. On 3 Nov, hosts Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights, with an exciting line-up of music and dance. Cheer on the Lionesses, who return to Wembley on 9 Nov for the first time since the Women’s Football World Cup. For those who want to experience a modern-day picture of life in London, I recommend Oscar-winning director and artist Steve McQueen’s Year 3 project at Britain. This is a refreshing take on the traditional school photo, as he brings together 1,500 London primary-school class photographs in one exhibition. Finally, if you’re here from 21 Nov, enjoy Hyde Park Winter Wonderland. This is London’s biggest Christmas market, with rides, shows, ice sculptures and attractions, too. FIND YOUR However you spend your time, have a wonderful experience.

Sadiq Khan #LP SELFIE Mayor of London Share a London selfie using our : @LondonPlanner hashtag online Facebook: LondonPlannerMag Instagram: LondonPlanner YouTube: www.youtube.com/londonplanner

NOVEMBER 2019 | 3 +++++ SUNDAY TIMES ‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE! MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY

THE STORY CONTINUES ON STAGE

NOW BOOKING UNTIL AUGUST 2020 PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com

#CursedChildLDN TM & © HPTP. ™ WBEI Contents November 20192019 03 Mayor’s welcome welcomes you to London 28 06 Top 10 free attractions The most popular places to visit 08 The Prince of Egypt As an exhibition on Tutankhamun opens, its curator shares the must-see items 14 London tribes Learn how communities, from Jews to Bangladeshis, found their place in the city 20 Discover Visit palaces and castles 90 Britain Planner 72 A guide to Stratford-upon-Avon, the hometown of 106 London in numbers Listings 28 Sightseeing 52 & Galleries 60 Entertainment 72 Sport 74 Shopping 78 Eating Out 88 Nightlife 90 94 Essential Information 7474 60 Maps 70 Theatreland 98 101 River services 102 104

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

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PLANNER GAME ON! How to watch tennis superstars PLUS MELTING at: www.visitlondon.com/londonplanner SPOTS Royal sights Jazz festivals From Chinatown Stratford- to Brick Lane upon-Avon or: www..com/londonplanner Read a digital copy: www.en.calameo.com

THE GOLDEN PHARAOH PRESENTED BY VIKING CRUISES VIKING BY PRESENTED PHARAOH GOLDEN THE or subscribe to receive a printed copy 7+( every month by contacting: hmun:mun ingofTutankhamun:ingofTutankhamuingofTutankhamunigofTutankingofTutankhaminggofffTutankh TutankhamuTutankhamun g an op .,1*2).,1*6It’sIt’t’t’sthe’theg the the the thehehgrand gran grand grandgra grandgrand open open open openopening of Tutankhamun: YOUR FIND

Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh [email protected] IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TUTANKHAMUN: TREASURES OF OF TREASURES TUTANKHAMUN: WITH PARTNERSHIP IN

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OVER indd 1 COVERCCOCOVER© © IMIMG, LABORATORIOROSSO, VITERBO. THIS PAGE: THANKSGIVING © GRAHAM LACDAO/ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; ROGER FEDERER © NITTO ATP TENNIS; ’S COTTAGE © VISITENGLAND/JAMESKERR.CO.UK; CERAMICS © R HARDYMAN; AMÉLIE © PAMELA RAITH PHOTOGRAPHY; BURGER AND GUITAR © ROCK CAFE 78

NOVEMBERNOVNOVENONOVEVEVEMBERMBMBEMBEBER 20192202010119 | 5 London’s most popular free attractions compiled according to the latest visitor numbers. Free Attractions www.visitlondon.com. Source: ALVA TOP 1 2 3 10

4 5 6 7 © ISTOCK; ISTOCK; © GREENWICH

8 9 10

1 The British 6 Victoria and Albert Museum Famous museum housing the Rosetta Stone, Incredible artefacts spanning more than 3,000 the Elgin Marbles and Egyptian mummies years, including art, sculpture and fashion 2 7 Science Museum Former power station in Bankside containing Interactive, scientific fun for kids and grown-ups, a huge international collection boasting everything from rockets to steam engines 3 The 8 Priceless European art belonging to the nation, A neoclassical gem beside the , with works by Botticelli, da Vinci and van Gogh home to contemporary arts and cultural events 4 Natural History Museum 9 Displays of the natural world, including Maritime history and world-class art at this dinosaurs, prehistoric fossils and taxidermy immense Unesco World Heritage Site 5 10 Major arts centre hosting music, dance and arts A 250-year-old fine arts institution with THE , TATE MODERN, SOUTHBANK CENTRE, SCIENCE MUSEUM, SOMERSET HOUSE, ROYAL MUSEUMS ROYAL SCIENCE MUSEUM, SOMERSET HOUSE, CENTRE, SOUTHBANK MODERN, TATE MUSEUM, BRITISH THE events, plus the refurbished high-profile exhibitions in a variety of media HISTORY MUSEUM COURTESY GALLERY NATURAL THE OF GALLERY; THE NATIONAL NATIONAL COURTESY HISTORY MUSEUM; OF NATURAL VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; PARRY ACADEMY © DAVID OF ARTS ROYAL

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arsenal.com/tours TUTANKHAMUN

THETutankhamun PRINCE has fascinated the world for generations. OF As treasurestreasures fromfrom hishis tombtomb go on display for the final time, KathrynKathryn ConwayConwayy talks to the curatorcu to uncover the symbolism

hen Howard Carter and his team, who were famously being bankrolled by Lord Carnarvon for one final seasonW of excavation in of the Kings, happened upon the intact tomb of Tutankhamun nearly a century ago (left), it opened the eyes of the public to the skill and craftsmanship of one of the world’s most sophisticated ancient civilisations. Now, as more than 150 of Carter’s dazzling finds are showcased at the Saatchi Gallery, visitors to Tutankhamun: Treasures of the GGoldeno Pharaoh presented by Viking Cruises will be treated to an iimmersivem exploration into the meaning behind the items that were buried with this most famous of Pharaohs. Here, curator TareTarekk El Awady unmasks a few of the Pharaoh’s secrets with this insightin into some of the key items on display.

STATUETTESTATUET OF TUTANKHAMUN ON THETHE BACKB OF A PANTHER ‘The kingkin is shown standing on the back of a black panther.panthe When people look at this object, many don’t understand exactly why the king is depicting himselfhims this way. But when you study the geographygeogr of the underworld, you see that there is an area that the ancient Egyptians called the absoluteabso darkness. The king had to pass through thisthis areaa on his journey into the afterlife, and the onlyonly wayway that he could succeed in this is to ride a black panther,panther, becbecausea the golden eyes of the black panther can see throuthroughgh tthe absolute darkness. So the king is standing on its back anda he is charming the by magic to be still.still. The black panther is also connected to the goddessg Mafdet, so it is giving protection anda guidance to the king.’ PROMOTION: ALL IMAGES © IMG, LABORATORIOROSSO, VITERBO PROMOTION: ALL IMAGES © IMG, LABORATORIOROSSO,

8 | LONDON PLANNER EGYPT GOLD COFFINETTE ‘The amount of work that has been achieved in this small object is really amazing. It is a masterpiece of art and represents the perfection reached in ancient Egyptian sculpture. The tiny details on the outside of the coffinette leave no doubt that the artist handled this object as if he was making a true-sized royal coffin. On the inside of the coffinette we can see the beautiful inscriptions in hieroglyphics which assure the goddess’s protection of the king’s liver. It is one of four identical coffinettes found inside the king’s alabaster canopic chest.’

WISHING CUP ‘This beautiful alabaster chalice was called the “Wishing Cup” by Howard Carter because of the inscriptions around its rim, which represent a group of good wishes for Tutankhamun. Among the wishes we can read: “May you live thousands of good years, may your eyes see great (wonderful) things.” Now, the question is, did the wishes inscribed on the Wishing Cup come true? The answer is yes! The name Tutankhamun is the most known name of an ancient king all over the world. Also, Tutankhamun is now the most travelled king; his exhibitions have toured the world and the king has visited many cities – his eyes have seen wonderful things.’

NOVEMBER 2019 | 9 TUTANKHAMUN The excavation of Tutankhamun’s tomb

GILDED WOODEN NAOS OR SHRINE ‘In the exhibition we have a very interesting object for the god Amun. The small golden shrine is a masterpiece amongong the objects found iinn Tutankhamun’s tombomb anandd inside it, Howard Carter found a stand for a . But there was no statue, onlyly a base with two footprints on it. Carterarter believed this was foforr an invisible god andnd the name Amun memeansans “the hidden one” oorr ““thethe invisible one”. Forr the fifirstrst time, we also see sscenescenes showing love and affaffectionection between a king andnd hhisis queen depicted onn an object in a king’s tomb.tomb. Many scholars haveave commented on thee scenes, which showow Tutankhamun andd Ankhesenamun wwalkingalking hand in hand, drinkingnking wine together andd the queen massaging her husband’s body withith fragrant ointment,t, as an impression of Amarnamarna art (the style of art duringuring the reign of Tutankhamun’samun’s father, Akhenaten).n). However, the meaninganing

of such scenes in a royal O tomb is still unknown.own. VITERB I believe they confirmfirm ththatat , Tutankhamun fulfilledlfilled hihiss post as a king of EEgyptgypt even though he ascendedscended the throne at a youngung LABORATORIOROSSO age, and that he andnd , his queen enjoyedd their life together blessed by

Amun, the suprememe gogodd MAGES © IMG

of the country.’ VITERBO ALL IMAGES © IMG, LABORATORIOROSSO, I

10 | LONDON PLANNERANNER ‘Practically perfect in every way’ DAILY TELEGRAPH

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© A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE TUTANKHAMUN

Howard Carter emerging from the tomb

CEREMONIAL SHIELD OF TUTANKHAMUN ‘Only kings can be depicted as a sphinx with the wisdom of a man and the power of a . The king is shown here devastating his enemies and is being supported by the falcon god Montu, the god of war. The inscription in front of the king’s face assures that the king’s arms will have the power of Montu and that he will fight like him. This is one of the objects that is being seen outside Egypt for the firs time.’

A at the museum If the treasures weren’t already a huge draw, little ones will feel like an Egyptian prince or princess when they are indulged with a children’s party or the ultimate children’s sleepover. Kids can wield glowsticks and glow paint while trying out pyramid building, treasure hunts and tunnel tombstone racing at a party like no other. Or, perhaps they’d prefer to channel Indiana Jones as they spend the night with an archaeologist surveying the exhibition’s treasures by torchlight, before bedding down in their own personalised pyramid complete with treasure-hunt map pillowcase. With party planners Sharky & George behind this one, you know it’s going to be a night to remember. Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh presented by Viking Cruises opens at the Saatchi Gallery on 2 November. For tickets, please visit: www.tutankhamun-london.com HOWARD CARTER COURTESY OF THE SAATCHI GALLERY; SHIELD © LABORATORIOROSSO, VITERBO, ITALY; CHILDREN © ISTOCK VITERBO, ITALY; SHIELD © LABORATORIOROSSO, GALLERY; CARTER COURTESY OF THE SAATCHI HOWARD

12 | LONDON PLANNER

COMMUNITIES

The Lion sculpture on Wardour Street

From cockneys to hipsters, London is packed with all sorts of groups. Neil Simpson finds out how certain communities have built a home away from home

JEWISH Approximately 55,000 Jewish people live in Barnet. Why did one fifth of the Jewish population of and Tailor in the settle in this north London East End borough? We ask the Jewish Museum’s collections manager schools made the borough and curator, Kathrin Pieren. attractive for Jewish people. ‘Members of the Jewish ‘I like the story of the King of community in Barnet originally Lampedusa: it’s a Yiddish play settled along the Northern line based on the true story of in the 1920s – there was a lot Cohen, a Jewish tailor from of housing development along Clapton [east London] who the railway line, with people became an RAF flight sergeant. migrating from the East End His forced landing on the Italian as they became better off. island of Lampedusa caused the ‘The biggest movement away Italian garrison to surrender, from the East End was probably earning Sydney the nickname after World War II. The area ‘King of Lampedusa’. The play was bombarded because of the was staged at east London’s Grand port and the concentration of Palais Theatre in 1943 and we industry there. As more people have a poster of it in our museum.’ settled, synagogues and Jewish www.jewishmuseum.org.uk

14 | LONDON PLANNER Wardour Street

Princess Diana in Chinatown in 1985

Jewish Museum CHINESE Parallel to the bright lights of , China Exchange on ’s Gerrard Street works to promote China’s impact on the world. CEO Freya Aitken-Turff reveals the story of this community: ‘London’s original Chinese community were sailors, working in the Docklands in the late 1800s. With British Naval forces caught up in the , a small but impactful Chinese community of about 300 households formed in Limehouse. However, heavy World War II bombing made it unsafe. dramatically, from four or five in the ‘From the 1700s, Soho had a 1970s to about 40 by 1979. In 1985, reputation for multiculturalism. began working with After the war, Londoners became the community to formally establish more willing to try Chinese and other Chinatown, installing its gates of foreign food. There were a couple welcome and stone .’ of Chinese businesses established To find out more, join China in Gerrard Street and so, as the Exchange’s monthly walking tour Limehouse community was displaced (23 Nov; £27). Led by a community- and more people migrated from Hong trained history champion, it includes Kong, many settled there. a classic Chinatown lunch. ‘During the 1970s, the number www.chinaexchange.uk; of Chinese businesses increased www.ccc.org.uk WARDOUR STREET © ISTOCK; JACOB MINSKY COURTESY OF JEWISH MUSEUM; MUSEUM INTERIOR © BENEDICT JOHNSON WARDOUR INTERVIEWEES LONDON; PRINCESS DIANA COURTESY OF WWW.CCC.ORG.UK; MASK COURTESY OF CHINATOWN PHOTOGRAPHY; COURTESY OF THEMSELVES

NOVEMBER 2019 | 15 FILMCOMMUNITIES AND TV Dennis Severs’ House

Dennis Severs’ House

HUGUENOTS During the 18th and 19th centuries, the world came to east London’s Spitalfields district to buy silk woven by a community of French Protestants, the Huguenots. The local attraction Dennis Severs’ House exists as a reminder of that era, so we interviewed its curator David Milne. ‘When London was a walled city its rules were strict, so immigrants settled outside; the first Huguenot settlers came to Spitalfields when the area was demarcated the Liberty of Norton Folgate. France became a Catholic country and more persecuted Huguenots arrived. Instinctively, we all follow where our own kind have gone and many spoke French I’m slightly obsessed with him because he here – it was the first language on the streets made such an impact on London and then – hence Fournier Street, Fleur de Lis Street and seemed to vanish: you can’t find him, only all of Spitalfields’ French-sounding names. his designs. A room dedicated to Spitalfields ‘They became prosperous and the Spitalfields’ at the V&A includes examples of his work.’ silk industry world-renowned. There were Spitalfields’ townhouse, Dennis Severs’ House, 17,000 looms at work in a neighbourhood that is getting ready for its Christmas Installation was three times the size that it is today and (from 24 Nov). The late American artist Severs even ordered silk from devised this tour that takes visitors through Spitalfields. There was a chap here called time, from the early 1700s to a Victorian-style James Leman who made sensational designs. Yuletide. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk DENNIS SEVERS’ HOUSE © ROELOF BAKKER

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TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. BANGLADESHI Brick Lane in east London is home to a mind-boggling array of Bangladeshi restaurants. It’s also where writer Kia Abdullah grew up. She explains to us how this vibrant community took root: ‘The borough of has a long tradition of welcoming immigrant populations. Bangladeshis came to London in the 1950-1960s and in greater numbers in the 1970s, in search of employment and stability. The East End’s thriving clothing industry offered work in the Mela Festival in textile trade as cutters, machinists, pressers Bethnal Green and finishers. With their new-found capital, some of these workers opened cafés. From there grew the large network of successful Bangladeshi restaurants and shops that we see in and around Brick Lane today. ‘In east London, it can seem like people from different communities live separate lives that rarely cross over. However, everyone speaks the language of haggling: my mother speaks very little English but I’ve seen her expertly negotiate with Brick Lane a white-British stallholder. restaurant Bangladeshi women of her generation are extremely resourceful: they will Kia and her family purchase the freshest fish for close to pennies, purely St Katharine Docks through the arch of an eyebrow or a creasing of the lips. The non-verbal language of gestures and miming is very much part of the fabric of this city. ‘There is so much to see in Tower Hamlets. I recommend visiting Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park, one of London’s “magnificent seven” cemeteries built in early Victorian times. Burials ceased in 1966 and today, the 30 acres of woodland are managed as a nature park. A travel writer and novelist, Kia’s new book is ‘If you’re after something traditionally entitled Take It Back. The story is a courtroom Bangladeshi, I would suggest Café Grill on Brick drama set in east London – ideal if you’re looking Lane. It’s no-frills in terms of decor, but offers for a book that will immerse you in the city. authentic food at affordable prices.’ www.kiaabdullah.com

CAPTURING LONDON To understand London’s diversity, visit Steve McQueen Year 3 at (from 12 Nov). This free exhibition was masterminded by the Londoner and film director (12 Years a Slave), who offered every Year 3 pupil in London – that’s 115,000 – the chance to be photographed with their class by the Tate. Seven-year-olds are at a stage in their development when they become aware of the world beyond their family, so McQueen aims to capture this and depict London’s next generation. It’s a chance to consider

the forces that shape every London community. www.tate.org.uk © ISTOCK; KIA ABDULLAH BRITAIN BANGLADESHI IMAGES, BEIGEL BAKE AND TATE COURTESY OF KIA ABDULLAH; STEVE MCQUEEN © JOHN RUSSO AND HER FAMILY

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Tower of London

Tower of London Take a tour with a Yeoman Warder (Beefeater) around the Tower of London, one of the world’s most famous buildings. Discover its 900-year history as a royal palace, prison and place of execution, arsenal, jewel house and . Gaze up at the White Tower, tiptoe through a medieval kings’ bedchamber and marvel at the Crown Jewels. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london

ample the lives of the kings and queens of England with a visit to these top royal The most famous resident of Hampton Court SLondon attractions. Palace was King Henry VIII. Each of his six wives stayed here; indeed, this is where he proposed to Palace Jane Seymour. Follow the costumed guides as Located in the pleasant surrounds of Kensington they bring to life the palace’s 500 years of royal Gardens, offers a glimpse into history. Then, head outside to the formal gardens the lives of its former royal residents. Here you can and have fun getting lost in the magnificent yew discover stories from ’s life at the maze, which was planted around 300 years ago. Victoria: A Royal Childhood and Victoria: Woman www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace and Crown exhibitions; master courtly games in the King’s state apartments; explore Princess Changing the Guard ceremony Diana’s sense of style in a permanent fashion at display and see the Sunken Garden, which is See the New Guard exchange duties with the inspired by the colours found in Victorian carpets. Old Guard in the famous Changing the Guard

www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace ceremony outside Buckingham Palace, which © TODD-WHITE ART PHOTOGRAPHY/BEN FITZPATRICK; THE QUEEN’S GALLERY ALL OTHER IMAGES © ISTOCK

20 | LONDON PLANNER Kensington Palace Hampton Court Palace

is a striking display of British pageantry. Changing the Guard, also known as Guard Mounting, takes Buckingham Palace place outside Buckingham Palace from 10.45am and lasts around 45 minutes, with the actual handover taking place at 11am. Don’t miss this unique and free event. www.changing-guard.com

Household Cavalry Museum You’ve seen Changing the Guard, now look behind the scenes at the work that goes into the ceremonial duties and operational roles of the Household Cavalry. Watch troopers working with their horses in the original 18th-century stables and browse a collection representing more than 300 years of military history. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk The Queen’s Gallery The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace Dedicated to works of art from the , The Queen’s Gallery was constructed in 1962 at Buckingham Palace, out of the bomb- Find out more Download the Visit London app to discover damaged ruins of a chapel. In addition to gems more things to do in London, hot happenings, from the Royal Collection (which is held in trust hidden gems and maps to help you navigate by the Queen for the nation), there’s a changing the city. To download, go to www.visitlondon. programme of temporary exhibitions. com/app/londonplanner www.rct.uk/queensgallerylondon

NOVEMBER 2019 | 21 PROMOTION

St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys

St Pancras International has all you need under one roof this Christmas. Flora Neighbour explores what the grand station has to offer visitors

Playing jingles on Fortnum the station’s piano & Mason

22 | LONDON PLANNER ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL rom the highly anticipated Christmas in the arcade singing carols to visitors to raise tree, placed centre stage on the station’s in support of multiple charities. It’s the concourse, to the festive cocktails at perfect way to feel Christmassy as you head on Searcys Brasserie & Champagne Bar, your journey home. Last year, all the charities FSt Pancras International is more than just a train that participated raised a total of over £13k. station, it’s an experience. From 12th November, If you’re in London on 12th December, visit St Pancras International will be hosting the station for the special Christmas shopping Christmas celebrations around the Grade I-listed party events where visitors can enjoy music, building, as well as in its shops and restaurants. experiences and special offers and discounts Enjoy live music, parties, special offers and across the shops and restaurants – marking discounts during the holiday season. All aboard! the month with spirit. If you’re early for your train, take a moment THINGS TO DO to enjoy the warming glow of ’s pink St Pancras International has quite literally neon I Want My Time With You above the Grand decked the halls this Christmas, with the festive Terrace and in front of the Dent clock, which will celebrations launching on 12th November. leave the station after seven years in 2020 – this The starring role? The Christmas tree. Each year, may be your last chance! St Pancras partners up with another or company to create the jolly work of art. THINGS TO BUY The station will also support charities through Pick up your stocking fillers at London’s gateway ‘Carolling for Causes’ from the 3rd-24th to Europe. Top up your caddy and nibble on December. Carol singers will take centre stage sandwiches, scones and pastries with a hamper

St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys

Kate SSpadepade NewNew YorkYork

St Pancras International

NOVEMBER 2019 | 23 ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION

St Pancras International station concourse full of luxury bites and brews from the Finally, treat yourself to some therapy quintessentially English Fortnum & Mason. at Jo Malone and ppick up the highly coveted The iconic department store alsoso ooffersffers Cli Clickck MagicMagic & Mayhem AdventAdve Calendar. Feel festive and Collect if you’re in a rush forr last-minute and calm with a luxuriousluxurio candle each day as Christmas Day essentials or gifts.ts. you count down to the big day. If, however, you have time to kkill,ill, head KATE SPADE NEW ; SPADE KATE over to ’ brand-new storetore aatt tthehe THINGSTHINGS TO EAT © station. You’ll find the famous booksellerookseller Take a seat aat one of the many SAM LANE FOR HS1 LTD. SAM LANE FOR HS1 LTD.

in the middle of the shopping arcadecade restaurantsrestaurants aand bars and enjoy © with a wide selection of hardbackscks and StSt Pancras International’sIn breath- signed editions on offer – the perfectrfect taking 150-year-old150-ye architecture. present for a bookworm. Throughoutghout Got time? FeastFe on The Betjeman the holidays, check the Hatchards’ds’ Arms’Arms’ deliciousdelicio three-course website to see when your favouriterite Christmas menu before enjoying authors will be visiting. a few festivefest tipples on the Grand If you have little ones in tow, Terrace.Terrac The restaurant is ISTOCK; ALL OTHER IMAGES hurry down to to keep a greatgre place to meet up © them occupied while you wait foror withwit friends or family for your train. The famous toy shop pre-trainp celebrations. features all the best games and ggiftsifts If you’re looking to

your little kids (and big) will love.e. splash the cash this HANDBAG BAR BY SEARCYS; CHAMPAGNE BRASSERIE & While the children are occupied,ied, Christmas,C pop into © SAM LANE FOR HS1 LTD SAM LANE FOR HS1 LTD why not browse the stylish St Pancras Brasserie © designer handbags, wallets and & ChampagneChampagne Bar by Searcys and wristlets in crisp colours and sip on one ofof theirtheir Christmas cocktails, graphic prints at Kate Spade Neww Sir John available fromfrom 25th25t November. We love York store at the station? Maybee Betjeman statue thethe Minty Way, whwhich is made of rum, Father Christmas might pop onee whitewhite chocolatechocolate aand white mint liqueur. PREVIOUS PAGES: COCKTAILS COCKTAILS PREVIOUS PAGES: under the tree if you’re lucky. Now,Now, don’tdon’t miss yoyour train. www.stpancras. INTERNATIONAL EXTERIOR SHOT ST PANCRAS ALL IMAGES THIS PAGE:

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Sightseeing

A plot never forgot ost Londoners would probably claim to FawkesF event. Book tickets online, which include be civilised citizens, but our tradition of accessaca to an afterparty (www.enablelc.org/fireworks). celebrating Bonfire Night (5 Nov) reveals AlexandraA Palace in north London hosts its a slightly bloodthirsty side to the city. Here’s spectacularspsp celebration across two nights (1-2 Nov). Mhow to remember, remember the man who nearly ThisT picturesque park on a hill has enough room destroyed the Houses of Parliament. tot build a huge fire and light a gargantuan number In 1605, the renegade Guy Fawkes led an ofo fireworks, while also offering a musical laser attempt to simultaneously kill King James I and showssh and a fairground. Buy tickets in advance

raze London’s parliament buildings to the ground, onlineoon (www.alexandrapalace.com). ; using a rather large pile of gunpowder. He didn’t One of London’s biggest free fireworks events is succeed and – as the saying goes – history gets ata Blackheath (2 Nov), a large open space close APHY

written by the victors: ever since that dramatic to the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site TOGR T night on 5 November, Fawkes’ gunpowder treason inin south-east London. At the time of writing it was PHO is remembered by burning life-sized of underu threat due to funding issues, so check online ERS him on bonfires across London. See? Bloodthirsty. beforebbe you travel (www.lewisham.gov.uk/fireworks). NERS

London’s largest Guy Fawkes events happen YYou can commemorate Guy Fawkes’ foiled plot on KMI KM

during the weekends surrounding 5 November, BBonfire Night itself at Wimbledon Park (5 Nov). NIC which this year falls on a Tuesday. One of the TThis ticketed firework display is right next to © RK © closest to central London is in tththe legendary tennis ground, so you could tour (2 Nov) in the south west, a green space that has WWimbledon and its museum beforehand APA plenty of room for a firework extravaganza, which (wwww.merton.gov.uk; www.wimbledon.com). ERSE © ED NORTON PHOTOGRAPHY ALEXANDRA PALACE is the other key ingredient of any successful Guy – Neil Simpson © NICK MINERS PHOTOGRAPHY; PARK BATTERSEA BATT

28 | LONDON PLANNER INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central London map (p. 98). Prices listed here are for tickets bought in person – reductions may be available online

Battersea Park SIGHTSEEING THE The world’s largest library, with a huge collection. To 23 Feb: Buddhism. See sacred scribings on tree bark, palm leaves, ivory and gold, alongside modern art and films. Check for times and prices. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. www.bl.uk. Station: King’s Cross. C7.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch has 775 rooms and is normally closed to the public. During the summer months the state rooms and garden are open to visitors. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. www.rct.uk. Station: Victoria. F6/F7.

CHANGING THE GUARD Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another (p. 20). From 10am; check for dates; free. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.householddivision.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Green Park. F6/F7.

CUTTY SARK Climb aboard the world’s last surviving tea clipper to meet the characters from ’s history. 23-24 Nov: Birthday Weekend. Celebrate 150 years of the ship. Check for times and prices. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Map inset.

DR JOHNSON’S HOUSE Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this period home. Check for times and prices. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. www.dr johnsonshouse.org. Station: . D9.

HMS Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult Alexandra Palace £16.20; child £8.10. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: London . E11.

£5.00 OFF SAVE £££s MULTIDAY PASSES ON ATTRACTIONS Free entry into over 70 attractions ® WITH THE www.londonpass.comNOVEMBER 2019 | 29 Sightseeing ‘Celebrate thee Festival of Lights’ghts’ Fabian Pountney, Contributorbutor

Diwali on Trafalgar Square (3 Nov; 1pm-7pm) is a vibrant celebration of the Festival of Lights, a key season that is observed by Hindus, Sikhs, Jains and Buddhists and represents the victory of good over evil and light over darkness. It features a jam-packed schedule full of cultural acts – and opportunities for everyone to get involved. Expect big crowds, lively music, dance and an authentic market offering food, craft, art and henna. The event is presented by the Mayor of London Sadiq Khan and promises to bring an upbeat spirit to the square once again. www.diwaliinlondon.com

Feel wonder fi rst hand

Members go free

Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org DIWALI CROWDS © GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY/JAMES O JENKINS; CROWDS © GREATER DIWALI LONDON AUTHORITY/CAROLINE TEO DANCERS © GREATER

30 | LONDON PLANNER THE BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Travel in style this autumn

From the Gold State Coach to the State Stables, discover more about Photographer: Sam Mellish Buckingham Palace’s historic carriages and The Queen’s horses that pull them.

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7302 Sightseeing 32 Adult £21.50; child£10.70. late monarch’s 200thbirthday. Daily10am-4pm. Victoria 2019 and was PrincessDiana’s lasthome.Theexhibition This royal residence sitsinKensington Gardens KENSINGTON PALACE heritage.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F8. St, SW1P3JX. T: 020-7222 2219.www.english- 1834fire. Checkforan timesandprices. Westminsterfrom themedieval Palace after of treasures, thisisoneofonlytwo buildingsleft Built around 1365 tohouseEdward III’s THE uk/visit. Station: Westminster. F8. T:SW1A 0AA. 020-7219 4114. www.parliament. free. friendly family guidedtouradult£19.50, child £26.50, young adult£22,child£11.50; child- (one childfree perpaying adult);guidedtouradult adult £19.50, young adult(16-18) £17, child£8 palace. Tours Multimediaself-guided tour Sat. working parliamentbuilding,whichisalsoaroyal See thestunningartandarchitecture insidethis HOUSES OFPARLIAMENT Station: High Street Kensington. Offmap. W8 4PX. T: 7777. 0844-482 www.hrp.org.uk. booking isessential. The lectures are free but also publishedwriters. two clergymen whoare Poetry of MercyThe Quality in winner Juliet Stevenson. 7pm), includingOlivier of Mercy inDrama top actors for The church (p. 40)hosts through the can helpusseetheworld exploring how thearts of MercyThe Quality Autumn Lecture Series, the-Fields question That’sthan now? the greater needfor mercy Has there ever beena church Take meto

| , ,

LONDON PLANNER LONDON (18Nov; 7pm)stars St Martin-in- asks in its asksinits eyes ofothers. honours what would have beenthe The Quality The Quality (3Nov; ,

Kensington Gardens,

Abingdon

treetop walkway.treetop Don’t misstheTemperate House. There a Chinesepagoda. are great viewsfrom the across theglobe, withVictoriangreenhouses and botanical research centre containsplantsfrom where specialeffects and act Explore the1,700-year-old LondonBridgesite THE LONDONBRIDGEEXPERIENCE co.uk. Station: Shepherd’s Map inset. Bush. Way, T: W12 7GA. 0330-131 3333. www.kidzania. prices. TV studiosanddesignstudios. Checkfor timesand real-life i activitieswithentertainment, experience.com. St 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. www.thelondonbridge Check for timesand prices. f a in located London Tombs, attraction tolife.Tick KIDZANIA LONDON KIDZANIA LONDON www.kew.org. Station: . Offmap. Richmond, for timesandprices. gardens illuminatedatnightonanewtrail. Check ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

From 20Nov: Westfield LondonShopping Centre, Ariel

Better known asKew Gardens, this This immense ‘indoor city’ mixes This immense‘indoorcity’ Surrey, T: TW93AB. 020-83325655. ation: Christmas atKew Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, ets . E10. London Bridge. include admission to the include admission to the 2-4 Tooley2-4 St,SE1 ors bringt ormer plague pit. ormer plaguepit. . Enjoy the . Enjoythe his scary ncluding ncluding

IMAGE © MARC GASCOIGNE

Sightseeing

THE See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life via costumed characters and special effects. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with London , Coca-Cola , and Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times and prices. County Hall, Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. www.thedungeons.com. Station: Waterloo. F8. Jumping juniper

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE The City district is known as the Square Mile, This London icon is one of the world’s due to the compact area it covers between largest observation wheels. Joint tickets available Chancery Lane and . Within these with Life London Aquarium, London relatively small borders, it is thought that one Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s in four buildings was producing gin during Adventure. Check for times and prices. County the 1700s. These days, there’s only one Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 working distillery within the Square Mile: 3000. www.londoneye.com. Station: Waterloo. F8. the Distillery. It’s to take a tour of this small-but-mighty space, LONDON MITHRAEUM which produces gin that’s sold all over the This fascinating cultural hub showcases a Roman world. The 75-minute tour includes a talk on temple built here 2,000 years ago. Check for gin with an expert, a top-notch gin and tonic times. Admission free. 12 , EC4N 8AA. and four further gin samples. T: 020-7330 7500. www.londonmithraeum.com. www.cityoflondondistillery.com

Station: Bank. D10. IMAGE COURTESY OF CITY LONDON DISTILLERY

Sightseeing Tours

www.goldentours.com

TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. LONDON OUT OF LONDON HOP-ON HOP-OFF WARNER BROS. ATTRACTION DAY TOURS DAY TOURS OPEN TOP TOURS STUDIO TOUR LONDON TICKETS

34 | LONDON PLANNER

Sightseeing

ZSL Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 . Check for times and prices. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. www.zsl.org. Station: . B6.

MADAME TUSSAUDS See life-sized wax figures of celebrities, royals and sports stars, from the Queen to . Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. www.madame tussauds.com. Station: . C6.

THE MONUMENT A special relationship This stone column, built in 1677, commemorates the . Climb the 311 steps to Ask any American and they’ll almost its observation gallery. Check for times and prices. certainly be a fan of Thanksgiving. So, how Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. could London possibly improve upon a day www.themonument.org.uk. Station: Monument. E10. of turkey, family, turkey, pumpkin pie, turkey and more turkey? Simple: with a side dish THE O2 of St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 40). Its special Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, US Thanksgiving Day Service (28 Nov; 11am) with the ICON designer shopping outlet. Peninsula is open to all and will be attended by the Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.theo2. Ambassador.

co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. CATHEDRAL IMAGE © GRAHAM LACDAO/ST PAUL’S See it. Hear it. Feel it. Take the all-new interactive stadium tour and museum experience at Chelsea Football Club.

Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

Available in 12 languages

Visit www.chelseafc.com/stadium for more information

36 | LONDON PLANNER Explore a London landmark and discover a star-studded history of performance

020 7959 0558 • royalalberthall.com Sightseeing

OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece and the Gold State Coach’s interior. Mon-Sat is home to a neoclassical chapel and the Painted 10am-4pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives Hall, recently refurbished. Check for times free. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303- and prices. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. 123 7302. www.rct.uk. Station: Victoria. F6. T: 020-8269 4799. www.ornc.org. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Map inset. THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY Stand astride the Prime Meridian and uncover 18 STAFFORD TERRACE the history of Greenwich Mean Time This house offers an insight intoo (GMT). There are also exhibitions the life of Punch cartoonist Edwardward about time. Check for times and Linley Sambourne, who lived hereere prices. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. from 1875 with his family. Checkk T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk. for costumed tours, times and Station: Greenwich// prices. 18 Stafford Terrace, Cutty Sark. Map inset. W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc.gov.uk. Station: High SEA LIFE LONDON Street Kensington. Off map. One of Europe’s largest with 500 species of global marine THE ROYAL MEWS life, including a glass walkway This part of Buckingham above a school of sharks. Check Palace houses the Queen’s for times and prices. County Hall, vehicles and horses. Learn Westminster Bridge Rd, about the mews’ history Visit Westminster SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 with the multimedia guide, Abbey and its 2001. www.sealife.co.uk. which includes a video of royal tombs (p. 42) Station: Westminster. F8.

FREE London museums here’s no need to spend a lot 2. of money to fill your time in This is the world’s largest urban TLondon. Many of the city’s best history museum, which has 1 and biggest attractions are free to thousands of exhibits in nine enter – take a look at our selection galleries, including Roman and of London’s top free museums. Medieval displays. Its sister museum in east London, the 1. Museum of London Docklands, During Queen Victoria’s reign, offers an insight into this historic her husband Prince Albert built area of the capital. world-class museums next to each www.museumoflondon.org.uk other in South Kensington. See prehistoric fossils, dinosaurs and 3. THE 2 taxidermy at the Natural History Head to High Street Kensington Museum, or head to the child-

and visit this museum, which THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION; friendly Science Museum with offers an introduction to the its rockets and steam engines. history of contemporary design The Victoria and Albert Museum with the free display Designer is a leading museum of art and Maker User, and opportunities design, covering architecture, to explore the present and future furniture, fashion and photography. of design through pop-ups and www.nhm.ac.uk; www.science temporary exhibitions. 3 museum.org.uk; www.vam.ac.uk www.designmuseum.org © ISTOCK; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © ISTOCK; OF LONDON

38 | LONDON PLANNER Three domes. *MZI¾SSVW And Europe’s greatest crypt. See an other side of St Paul’s.

Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages. www.stpauls.co.uk Sightseeing

THE VIEW FROM ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral in a high-speed lift for astounding views at 309m has stunning mosaics (p. 36). Climb up the dome up – on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor. to the Whispering Gallery, then head down to the Daily 10am-10pm. Adult from £27.20; child from crypt. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £21.25. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844- £8.50. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020- 499 7111. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 7246 8350. www.stpauls.co.uk. Station: St Paul’s. D9. Station: London Bridge. E10. SPENCER HOUSE This breathtaking landmark bridge opened in This palace was built in 1766 by Earl Spencer, 1894. Take a guided tour of the Victorian engine a relation of Princess Diana. Visit its eight state rooms. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child rooms on a guided tour. Sun 10.30am-5.30pm; £4.20. Check for bridge lift times (several daily). Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15.50; Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. child £12.50. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A www.towerbridge.org.uk. Station: 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. www.spencer Tower Hill. E11. house.co.uk. Station: . E7. TOWER OF LONDON ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS Wembley This historic venue includes the Stadium’s Landmark Palladian church with tours, sliding roof, used Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the a brass-rubbing centre, live classical in heavy rain, spectacular Crown Jewels. Enjoy free music (some free) and art exhibitions covers every seat, guided tours by the famous ‘Beefeaters’. (p. 32). Check for times and special making it the Check for times. Adult £27.50; child events. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. world’s largest £13.10. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 020-7766 1100. www.stmartin-in- covered stadium T: 0844-482 7799. www.hrp.org.uk.

the-fields.org. Station: . E8. Station: Tower Hill. E11. ICON © ISTOCK TOUR A WALK WORTH INVESTIGATING

“...this is an eerie, historical site... and, without a single prop, Richard Jones succeeds in conjuring more potent memories out of the area than from a neighbourhood full of palaces...” The Sunday Times

SEE IT ONLINE BEFORE YOU BOOK You can follow a step by step guide to our route, read the full Jack the Ripper story and watch videos on our website BEFORE you take the walk: www.rippertour.com

On our walk we show you original Victorian photographs of the streets through which you are walking as they were in 1888. We are the only Jack the Ripper Walk to limit the number of participants so booking is essential.

TO BOOK YOUR PLACE PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.RIPPERTOUR.COM or TEL: 020 8530 8443

40 | LONDON PLANNER THE UK’S NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD

Explore our timeless collection of childhood objects, with daily activities and fun for all ages – you can also browse our V&A shop and enjoy the café.

Bethnal Green Free admission Open daily 10.00 – 17.45 Find out more vam.ac.uk/moc Sightseeing

UP AT THE O2 Poets’ Corner. Check for times and prices. 20 This 90-minute experience takes you Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. www. across the roof of The O2, with spectacular views. westminster-abbey.org. Station: Westminster. F7. Check for times. From £30. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. www.theo2.co.uk.co.uk. RIVERRIVER TRIPSTRIP Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. CITYCITY CRUISESC DailyDai guided sightseeing tours on WARNER BROS. STUDIO theth Thames between Westminster, TOUR LONDON LondonLo Eye, Tower and Greenwich Go behind the scenes of piers.piers Check for times and prices. the Harry Potter films including DepartureDepa points vary. T: 020-7740 Hagrid’s Hut and Diagon . 0400.0400 www.citycruises.com. From 16 Nov: Hogwarts in the Snow. Seasonal special. Check LONDONLON EYE RIVER CRUISE for times. Adult £45; child £37. LiveLive commentary on a 40-minute Booking essential. Studio Tour Drive, sightseeingsigh river cruise. Check for Leavesden, , WD25 7LS. times.time Adult £13.50; child £10. London T: 0845-084 0900. www.wbstudio Eye Pier, SE1 7PB. www.londoneye.com/ tour.co.uk. Station: Euston to Watford river-cruise.rive Station: Waterloo. F8. Junction, then shuttle bus. Off map. THAMESTHA CLIPPERS WESTMINSTER ABBEY The fastest and most frequent fleet Consecrated in 1065, on thet river. Hop-on and hop-off this is the crowning Watch Changingg serviceser from 9am. Check for prices. site of most English the Guard (p. 29)9) T: 0020-7001 2200. www.thames

monarchs and houses clippers.com.clip SOLDIER © ISTOCK

From Buckingham Palace to the Royal Pavilion TreasureA PRINCE’S

Admission payable Members free brightonmuseums.org.uk 21 SEPTEMBER 2019 – AUTUMN 2021 The Royal Collection returns to ROYALROYAL PAVILION • BRIGHTON BN1 1EE Images: Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2019

42 | LONDON PLANNER

To Putney

from £4.40 adult single

Oyster Contactless App Online WKDPHVFOLSSHUVFRP

Unlimited Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Free River Cruise Free Guided Walk Free WiFi Kids Commentary Free Kids Activity Book 20% off online discount code LP11

NOVEMBER 2019 | 43 Sightseeing

THAMESJET CAPITAL TAXI TOURS ThamesRush is a 50-minute motorboat ride with A qualified guide drives you in a taxi for up to five sightseeing and awesome aquabatics. Departs from people. Choice of tours. Prices vary and are per Westminster Pier. Check for times and prices. taxi. T: 020-8590 3621. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. www.thamesjet.com. Station: Westminster. F8. CITY OF LONDON GUIDES WALKS A variety of unique themed walks, all within TOURS & GUIDED WALKS London’s historic Square Mile. Prices range BEE MIDTOWN GUIDED WALKS from free to £12.50. Departure points vary. Free, themed walking tours around , www.cityoflondonguides.com. and Farringdon. Check website for themes and meeting points. T: 020-7078 7077. THE CLASSIC TOUR www.bee-midtown.org. Hop aboard a restored 1960s Routemaster bus and see London’s landmarks. Check for times and prices. Departs from Northumberland Ave (outside Daily sightseeing trips on open-top, double- The Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655. www.theclassic decker buses. Classic ticket (one day) adult £39; tour.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8. child £29. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. www.bigbustours.com. EVAN EVANS The oldest and largest sightseeing company BIG BUS WALKING TOURS in London has accompanied visitors on city Historic guided walks from Green Park or Trafalgar tours and out-of-town trips since 1930. See Square. Daily 10am. Free with Big Bus London the sights or head to Oxford, Cambridge, Bath Tour tickets. Departs from the Big Bus stop in and other cities. Check for times and prices. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777. www.bigbustours.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7. www.evanevanstours.com.

LOSE YOURSELF IN THE CROWN JEWELS

Discover the treasures that united the kingdom, secured in London’s castle, the Tower of London.

Book online to save Members go free Tower Hill Royal Collection Trust © 2019, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

44 | LONDON PLANNER THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301 Sightseeing

GOLDEN TOURS serial killer. Numbers are limited to ensure the From day excursions to overnight city best ambience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. breaks, this London expert offers quality tour Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. experiences from London to locations such www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Off map. as Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. Check for times and prices. Departure points LONDON WALKS vary. T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com. London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Adult £10; child free. Departure BIKE TOURS points vary. T: 020-7624 3978. www.walks.com. Embark on a tour of the capital, using either a standard or electric bike. Wide variety of tour ORIGINAL LONDON SIGHTSEEING WALK themes. Check for prices. 11a Charing Cross The 90-minute Changing the Guard walk departs Rd, WC2H 0EP. T: 020-7341 6255. www.golden daily at 10am from the Original London Visitor tours.com. Station: Square. E8. Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020- GOLDEN TOURS OPEN-TOP 8877 1722. www.theoriginaltour.com. BUS TOURS Station: Charing Cross. E7. See landmarks including Buckingham Palace, the Houses of Parliament Westminster THE ORIGINAL TOUR and St Paul’s Cathedral. Departure Abbey’s Poets’ Live and multilingual open-top guided points vary. T: 020-7341 6255. Corner is bus tours take you to the city’s best a burial site www.goldentours.com. that contains attractions, allowing you to hop-on and the graves of hop-off at more than 80 stops. Check for JACK THE RIPPER TOUR Chaucer and prices. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. Take a two-hour walk around the Dickens T: 020-8877 1722. www.theoriginal

Whitechapel area about the infamous tour.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7. ICON © ISTOCK

See By Night

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night Adult - £21, Child - £12 LONDON Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744 ® WALKS Private tours available for groups day or night Over 100 walks every week [email protected] 020 7624 3978 www.walks.com www.seelondonbynight.com

46 | LONDON PLANNER WINDSOR CASTLE WINDSOR

HOME OF THE ROYAL WEDDING

www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7304 Sightseeing SEE ALL OF TOURS Visit this famous Victorian concert hall. Check for times and prices. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. www.royalalberthall.com. LONDON Station: South Kensington. F4.

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE TOURS AT ONCE One of the world’s leading opera and ballet venues. Check for tour themes and prices. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.uk/ tours. Station: . D8.

SEE LONDON BY NIGHT TOUR Bus tours around the city from outside The Ritz hotel. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. www. seelondonbynight.com. Station: Green Park. E6.

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE TOURS Reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Check for times and prices. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. www.shakespeares globe.com. Station: Blackfriars. E10.

THE STEAM DREAMS RAIL CO Take a trip with this fleet of restored steam trains, including the Flying Scotsman. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209 888. www.steamdreams.co.uk.

TWIZY TOURS Hire a two-seater Renault Twizy, then drive around London accompanied by a GPS-guided • London’s highest observation attraction audio tour. Prices from £30 per rental. Apcoa Car • 800ft above the ground Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428 • Unrivalled 360 degree views 363. www.twizytours.com. Station: . D5. • Amazing open air Skydeck LONDON • Refreshments available PLANNER BOOK IN ADVANCE AND SAVE Buy your ticket from your hotel concierge theviewfromtheshard.com Open daily from 10 am till late London Bridge Visit the Royal Albert Hall Watch our video about five reasons to visit the Royal Albert Hall, including its architectural tours, afternoon tea and, of course, superb concerts. www.youtube.com/londonplanner

48 | LONDON PLANNER TAKE THE VICTORIA LINE TO THE SEVEN SISTERS ULTIMATE BEHIND THE SCENES EXPERIENCE

SPURS STADIUM TOUR Enjoy a 90-minute Guided Stadium Tour taking you behind the scenes of the world-class Tottenham Hotspur Stadium. THE

Visit tottenhamhotspur.com/tours TOTTENHAM #tottenhamexperience EXPERIENCE Sightseeing

FESTIVALS & EVENTS STONEHENGE HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND This world-famous stone circle is more than From 21 Nov: Huge festival with a 5,000 years old. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £21.10; fairground, Bavarian market and outdoor ice child £12.70. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. rink. Daily 10am-10pm. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0870-333 1181. www.english-heritage.org.uk. T: 0300-061 2000. www.hydeparkwinterwonder Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus. Off map. land.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E5. OUT OF TOWN Built in 1068, this castle is now a family- HAMPTON COURT PALACE friendly experience. Please check for times Once royal residence of King and prices. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old 4QU. T: 0871-265 2000. www.warwick-castle.com. maze is set in 60 acres of glorious parkland (p. 20). Station: Warwick. Off map. From 22 Nov: Outdoor Ice Rink. Glide across the ice. Check for times and prices. WINDSOR CASTLE Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. Station: oldest inhabited castle. Daily 10am-4.15pm. Waterloo to Hampton Court. Off map. Adult £22.50; child £13. Windsor, , SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. www.rct.uk. Station: PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside. Off map. The Queen’s official residence in Scotland

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS includes the state apartments. Daily 9.30am- THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE LONDONNOV 19 • LONDONPLANNER.COM

PLANNER GAME ON! How to watch tennis superstars PLUS MELTING SPOTS Royal sights Jazz festivals From Chinatown Stratford- to Brick Lane 4.30pm. Adult £15; child £8.70. Canongate, upon-Avon FOR MORE PLACES VISIT

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303- CRUISES VIKING BY PRESENTED RAOH

7+(

123 7306. www.rct.uk/palaceofholyroodhouse. mun Tutankhamun:TutankhamTtankTtankhaTutankhamunTtankhamutankhamuntankh randd openinopeningni of .,1*2).,1*6It’s’s the thethet egrandopeni grand grand grandgrand opening opening openingopenopening of ofof Tutankhamun: YOUR FIND

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50 | LONDON PLANNER JEFF WAYNE & ttt PRESENTS

LIVE ACTORS VIRTUAL REALITY ICONIC MUSIC book at dotdot.london tickets must be purchased in advance Museums &Galleries The kingofcollectors D was Whileholding thiscaretaker namedRegent. considered mentallyunfittorule in1811,sohisson landscape. That’s because hisfather GeorgeIIIwas head, hisexpensive habitswere changingLondon’s Even before thecrown was placeduponGeorge’s subsequent banquetinsideWestminster Hall. an impressive diningpiece thatwas partofthe occasion. Look outfor thegolden ShieldofAchilles, coronation atWestminster Abbey was aglittering Ascendingtothethrone in1870, George IV’s George IVplayed amajorpart inestablishing. the Royal Collection, which the treasures of finer thingsinlife. TheQueen’s Gallerydisplays owes itslavish exhibitstoakingwho pursued the 52 George IV: Art &Spectacle

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LONDON PLANNER LONDON The Queen’s Gallery

(from 15Nov; p. 58)

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ALL IMAGES © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/ HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019 INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Reductions may be available online. Many venues offer free general admission, but charge entry to some exhibitions. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central London map (p. 98)

Maar-vellous

Fans of the late French artist Dora Maar will be thrilled to visit the UK’s largest retrospective of her work at Tate Modern. Born in 1907, Maar used photographic montages to create surreal scenes. From a graceful human hand emerging from inside a sea shell to caress a beach, to a dressed-up woman with a shiny star where her head ought to be, the artist’s photographic world is a dreamy place. Dora Maar (from 20 Nov; p. 58) is an opportunity to see her photography and paintings, alongside the work of those who shared her influences at the time.

MUSEUMS MUSEUM Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694 to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Look out for regular fun activities for children. Admission free. Bartholomew Lane, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-3461 5545. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Station: Bank. D10. BODY WORLDS Explore the fortified secret bunker and the See 200 exhibits exploring how the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, used human body works using the latest plastination during World War II to plot the Allied victory. technology. Daily 10am-7pm; last Fri every Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. Clive month 10am-10pm. Advance (at least 24 hours) Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 adult £22.50, child £16; on the day adult £25, 6961. www.iwm.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F7. child £18. London Pavilion, 1 , W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. www.bodyworlds. co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Displays relating to global conflicts from to recent confrontations. Daily 10am-6pm. THE BRITISH MUSEUM Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. Unrivalled collection of antiquities. Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. www.iwm From 21 Nov: Troy: Myth and Reality. org.uk. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo. F9. Explore the artefacts and hear the stories that suggest Troy was in fact a real place (p. 58). Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Includes the Arab Hall adorned with Middle Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. Eastern tiles. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 3pm tour Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. every Wed and Sun. Adult £9; child free. 12 Holland www.britishmuseum.org. Station: Tottenham Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc.

THE YEARS LIE IN WAIT FOR YOU BY DORA MAAR © ADAGP, FOR YOU BY DORA MAAR © ADAGP, THE YEARS LIE IN WAIT AND DACS, LONDON 2019 Court Road/. D7/8. gov.uk. Station: Kensington Olympia. Off map.

NOVEMBER 2019 | 53 The Design Museum Museum of London Victoria and Albert Museum

The FREE London museums

here’s no need to spend a lot of money THE DESIGN MUSEUM Kensington to fill your time in London. Many of the The museum offers an introduction to the Tcity’s best and biggest attractions are history of contemporary design with the free completely free to enter – take a look at our display Designer Maker User, and opportunities selection of London’s top free museums. to explore the present and future of design through pop-ups and temporary exhibitions. SOUTH KENSINGTON’S MUSEUMS www.designmuseum.org During Queen Victoria’s reign, her husband Prince Albert built world-class museums right next to MUSEUM OF LONDON The City each other in South Kensington. See prehistoric This is the world’s largest urban history fossils, dinosaurs and taxidermy at the Natural museum, which has thousands of exhibits in History Museum, or head to the child-friendly nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval Science Museum with its rockets and steam displays. Its sister museum in east London, engines. The Victoria and Albert Museum the Museum of London Docklands, offers is a leading museum of art and design, covering an insight into this historic area of the capital. architecture, furniture, fashion and photography. www.museumoflondon.org.uk www.nhm.ac.uk; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; www.vam.ac.uk THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM Forest Hill This is the former home of Victorian Londoner THE BRITISH MUSEUM Bloomsbury Frederick John Horniman, who was a tea trader This iconic building houses treasures including and philanthropist. Explore his huge collection the Rosetta Stone and Egyptian mummies. of objects, specimens and artefacts from all over Travel through time and around the world with the world. There’s an aquarium, butterfly house a free paper guide in hand so you don’t miss the and a music gallery, as well as a 16-acre garden.

highlights. www.britishmuseum.org www.horniman.ac.uk VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © ISTOCK; OF LONDON THE DESIGN MUSEUM © ALEX MORRIS VISUALISATION; BE CHARGES FOR SOME SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS LONDON; THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM COURTESY OF THE HORNIMAN MUSEUM. THERE MAY

54 | LONDON PLANNER Hidden London The Exhibition Discover the secrets of the Underground Experience disused station tours and an immersive exhibition that delves deeper into a mysterious subterranean world

The T Tours Museums & Galleries

LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM Discover the story of London’s Designs for life transport system and see red buses and the world’s first underground steam train. Daily The Royal Academy of Arts is 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. Covent Garden shining an (energy-saving) light Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. www.lt on architects, designers and artists museum.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8. who have been working since the 1950s to save the environment. MUSEUM OF FREEMASONRY Eco-Visionaries: Confronting English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and a Planet in a State of Emergency is celebrated at this little-known museum and (from 23 Nov; p. 58) uses a blend library. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. of film, installations, architectural Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. models and photography to T: 020-7395 9257. www.museumfreemasonry. demonstrate their efforts. These org.uk. Station: Holborn. D8. figures include the multidisciplinary artist Dr Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg MUSEUM OF LONDON and New York’s WORKac design The world’s largest urban history museum takes firm, which strives to incorporate you through the capital’s tumultuous history. the needs of ecological systems Includes the Roman and Medieval galleries. into each of its projects. From 15 Nov: The Clash: London Calling. Free display celebrating the legendary album and band. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for MUSEUM OF LONDON DOCKLANDS special exhibitions and walking tours. 150 London The history of the River Thames, from its time Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. www.museum as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of oflondon.org.uk. Station: Barbican. D10. the Docklands area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. T: 020-7001 9844. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. Station: Reinventing the wheel West India Quay. Off map.

The Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition pays due respect to the Get up close to the objects that made automobile. They may be frowned upon in history – from maritime exhibits to great British congested cities, but there’s no denying that art – at the world’s largest maritime museum. cars have transformed our entire world. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for Cars: Accelerating the Modern World guided tours, events and exhibitions. Romney (from 23 Nov; p. 58) includes the 1888 Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk. Patent-Motorwagen No. 3 by Karl Benz Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark. Map inset. (below), as well as insights into how our electric futurefuture will look. NATURALNATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM AstoundingAs collections, with exhibits ranging fromfro dinosaur skeletons to fossils. DailyDaily 10am-5.50pm.10am Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-020-7942794 5000. www.nhm.ac.uk. Station: South KeKensington.n F4.

THETHE OLDOL OPERATING THEATRE LearnLear about Victorian surgery, which wasw performed without anaesthesia. Mon 2pm-5pm; Tue-Fri & bank hols 10.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun noon-4pm. Adult £6.50; child £3.50. 9a St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7188 2679. www.oldoperatingtheatre.com.

Station: London Bridge. E10. UNKNOWN FIELDS, THE BREAST MILK OF VOLCANO, 2016-2018 (VIDEO STILL) COURTESY OF THE ACADEMY OF ARTS; BENZ IMAGE COURTESY OF DAIMLER/VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM ARTISTS/ROYAL

56 | LONDON PLANNER The Breast Milk of the Volcano by Unknown Fields

THE POSTAL MUSEUM SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM Thousands of exhibits explore postal This 19th-century townhouse and library was history, plus you can ride on the Mail Rail, owned by the architect Sir John Soane and a train in the tunnels that transported post. Daily houses his eclectic collection. Wed-Sun & bank 10am-5pm. Adult £17; child £10. 15-20 Phoenix hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. www.postal opening events. Admission free. 13 Lincoln’s museum.org. Station: Russell Square. C8. Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. www.soane.org. Station: Holborn. D8. QUEEN’S HOUSE This royal villa is a masterpiece of 17th-century TWININGS MUSEUM architecture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has charge for guided tour. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. a mini exhibition reflecting on the company’s T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk. Station: 300-year history. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Cutty Sark. Map inset. Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. www.twinings. ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM co.uk. Station: Temple. D9. National aviation museum with more than 100 aircraft on show. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; THE VAULT charges for special experiences. Grahame Park Part of Hard Rock Cafe and home to iconic rock Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. www.raf ‘n’ roll memorabilia from famous musicians. museum.org.uk. Station: Colindale. Off map. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old , W1K 1QZ. SCIENCE MUSEUM T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com. Station: A huge museum dedicated to science, Hyde Park Corner. E6. technology and medical achievements, plus an IMAX theatre and a Red V&A MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD Arrows 3D flight simulator. Daily Charming museum with 10am-6pm; adult-only Lates a national collection of childhood programme last Wed of every month, During World objects dating back to the 16th 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges War II, The century. Daily 10am-5.45pm. for special exhibitions. Exhibition National Gallery’s Admission free. Cambridge Heath Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. paintings were Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. evacuated www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Station: to Wales www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Station:

ICON © ISTOCK South Kensington. F4. Bethnal Green. Off map.

NOVEMBER 2019 | 57 Museums & Galleries

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM THE QUEEN’S GALLERY The V&A’s collection of fine and applied arts This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from photographs and ceramics from around the world 500 years of treasures within the Royal Collection. (p. 56). Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. From 15 Nov: George IV: Art & Spectacle. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Discover this king and his art collection (p. 52). Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. Daily 10am-5.30pm; gallery closed until 14 Nov. www.vam.ac.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4/5. Adult £13.50; child £6.70. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. www.rct.uk/queens GALLERIES gallerylondon. Station: Green Park/Victoria. F7. THE NATIONAL GALLERY One of the world’s greatest art galleries. ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS From 9 Nov: Leonardo: Experience a See Royal Academy Collection works in all media. Masterpiece. Discover the inner workings of da From 23 Nov: Eco-Visionaries: Confronting Vinci’s The Virgin of the Rocks via four rooms. Sat- a Planet in a State of Emergency. Explore works Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; being undertaken to help save the environment charges for special exhibitions. Trafalgar Square, (p. 56). 6 , W1J 0BD. T: 020- WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. www.national 7300 8000. www.royalacademy.org.uk. Station: gallery.org.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E7. Piccadilly Circus/Green Park. E7.

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY SAATCHI GALLERY See works depicting famous British people. Contemporary art in a huge Georgian building. From 7 Nov: Taylor Wessing Photographic From 2 Nov: Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Portrait Prize. The best contemporary portrait Golden Pharaoh. See artefacts from the ancient photography. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. king’s tomb (p. 8). Daily 10am-6pm. Charges for Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. some exhibitions. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. www.saatchi-gallery. www.npg.org.uk. Station: . E7. co.uk. Station: . G5.

TATE BRITAIN Believe the legend The nation’s leading collection of British art. From 12 Nov: Steve McQueen Year 3. The British Museum is divingg The filmfilm directordirector presentspre one class photo into the mystifying realmealm of TroyTroy fromfrom evereveryy Year 3 primary-school with its latest show. HoHomer’smer’s class in London (p. 18). Daily Greek legend may seemem 10am-6pm.10am Admission like a fantasy – the free;fre charges for special capture of a beautifull exhibitions.exh , woman triggers a 10-yearyear SW1PSW 4RG. T: 020-7887 war and a major city is 8888.88 www.tate.org.uk. destroyed via a woodenen Station:Sta . G8. horse – but that doesn’tn’t mean Troy didn’t exist.t. TATET MODERN That’s the premise World-classW modern for Troy: Myth and arta in the Bankside Reality (from 21 Nov;v; PowerP Station. p. 53), an exploration From 20 Nov: into archaeological DoraDo Maar. Discover game-changers such as the work of this esteemed Heinrich Schliemann.n. photographerphot (p. 53). Sun- Digging in Turkey duringring ThurThur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat the 1870s, this Germanan 10am-10pm.10am-1 Admission free; archaeologist uncoveredred chargescharges ffor some exhibitions. ancient artefacts that Bankside,Bankside, SE1S 9TG. T: 020-7887 suggest Troy was real. 8888.8888. www.tawww.tate.org.uk.t Station:

Southwark.Southwark. E9.E9. AMPHORA, C.530BC, CERAMIC © THE TRUSTEES OF BRITISH MUSEUM ACHILLES KILLS THE AMAZON QUEEN PENTHESILEA, ATHENIAN

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NOVEMBER 2019 | 59 Entertainment

CorinneCorinne BaileyBailey Ray JazzJazz Voice

ChristianChristian ScottScott All that jazz he 1920s may have been generation. Fans dubbed the jazz age but the keen to experience T27th edition of the EFG Jazz something radical Festival (15-24 Nov) is catapulting will enjoy composer the genre into the future. Nik Bärtsch’s dramatic The festival opens with a bang thanks melodies – influenced by to Jazz Voice at the Southbank Centre, funk, jazz and contemporary during which a 42-piece orchestra plays classical music – played on a piano compositions by trumpeter Guy Barker. that appears to float on a pool of water. A large Traditionalists who miss out on tickets to screen behind him will depict shimmering water the gala can listen to saxophone beats on the and light effects created by visual artist Sophie same night at the same venue, as the Trevor Clements. Catch it at the Barbican (15 Nov). Watts Quartet perform ahead of the lead’s Like Bärtsch and Clements, Dan Tepfer brings 80th birthday. The following night, you can 1920s jazz into the 2020s with his futuristic catch New Orleans trumpeter, Christian performance, Natural Machines, at Kings Place Scott, at EartH (Evolutionary Arts Hackney). (24 Nov). A talented programmer, the pianist If it’s big names you’re after then you can also improvises on the piano while the instrument catch American jazz legend Herbie Hancock at responds with its own notes, guided by the Barbican (17 Nov), Grammy Award-winning algorithms that he has programmed into his singer-songwriter Corinne Bailey Rae at the computer. As the keyboard’s keys depress Southbank Centre (18 Nov) and fellow Grammy themselves, it’s as if his ghost is performing Award winner Cécile McLorin Salvant at the a duet by his side. Tepfer’s coding also turns Barbican (16 Nov). data into animated visual art to create Many of the performances fuse music with a multimedia performance.

other art forms, revolutionising jazz for a new www.efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk © GOLD; JAZZ VOICE © EMILE HOLBA; CORINNE BAILEY RAY CHRISTIAN SCOTT COURTESY OF LONDON JAZZ FESTIVAL

60 | LONDON PLANNER INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central London map (p. 98). Please check for venue’s complete listings

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES & JULIET An enchanting tale From 2 Nov: With songs from and Backstreet Boys, this musical asks They say Paris is the city of love but London what if Juliet’s ending was really her beginning. is too this month, as Amélie the Musical Check for times. Tickets £22.50-£75. Shaftesbury opens at (from 29 Nov). Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. The charming story, which is based on the T: 020-7379 5399. www.andjulietthemusical.co.uk. award-winning 2001 French romantic comedy, Station: /Holborn. D8. stars Audrey Brisson as a waitress who enjoys helping her customers. Director Michael AMÉLIE THE MUSICAL Fentiman says: ‘I London audiences From 29 Nov: Drama based on the award- will be enchanted by our little Parisian tale. winning film. Check for times. Tickets £19.50-£65. Amélie is about making connections, the The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. www.the simple acts of kindness that pull people otherpalace.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F7. closer, not further apart. In such divisive times, we all need a piece of Amélie.’ THE BOOK OF MORMON This follows two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100. , Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Station: Leicester Square. E7.

COME FROM AWAY The true story of a Canadian community hosting 7,000 passengers in the wake of 9/11. Check for times. Tickets £24-£108. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.

DEAR EVAN HANSEN HAMILTON Award-winning musical about a boy with Hip-hop musical based on the life of founding social anxiety. Check for times and prices. Noël father Alexander Hamilton. Check for times and Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. prices. , Victoria St, SW1E T: 0844-482 5140. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. www.hamiltonthemusical. Station: Leicester Square. E8. co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.

EVERYBODY’S TALKING ABOUT JAMIE LES MISÉRABLES On a council estate in , 16-year-old Jamie Adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, this overcomes prejudice. Check for times. Tickets musical is set in post-revolutionary France. Check £20-£85. , 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. Queen’s Theatre, 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. www.everybodystalking 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. aboutjamie.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. www.lesmis.com. Station: Leicester Square. D8.

GHOST STORIES THE LION KING This homage to horror is an edge-of-your-seat Adaptation of the popular Disney film experience. Check for times. Tickets from £20. with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Check Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. Lyceum Theatre, T: 020-7395 5405. www.atgtickets.com. Station: 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000.

AMÉLIE © PAMELA RAITH PHOTOGRAPHY AMÉLIE © PAMELA Leicester Square. D7. www.thelionking.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.

NOVEMBER 2019 | 61 Entertainment 62 £20-£122.50. with magicpowers. Checkfor times. Tickets wheeler-dealer. Checkfor times. Tickets £16.80- Based onthehitBritishsitcomaboutaloveable ONLY FOOLS ANDHORSES:THEMUSICAL Station: E8. CoventGarden. 0ET. T: 0844-8717687. www.9to5themusical.co.uk. Tickets £20-£125. seek revenge ontheirsexistboss. Checkfor times. Fun DollyParton musical aboutwomen who 9 TO 5THEMUSICAL themusical.com. D8. Station: CoventGarden. St, WC29HU. T: 4652.www.matilda 0844-412 mia.com. Station: E8. CoventGarden. WC2B 4LD.T: 5115.www.mamma- 0844-482 times. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. A tributetothepopularhitsofABBA.Checkfor MAMMA MIA!THEMUSICAL MATILDA THEMUSICAL Station: Tottenham D7. Court Road. T: 5151.www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. 0844-482 Edward Theatre, OldCompton St, W1D4HS. powers. Checkfor timesandprices. Hugely popularstoryaboutananny withmagical MARY POPPINS Stranger Things Netflix science-fictionseries location andbased on the which isheldinasecret latest immersive experience, shirt for Don dungarees andabold www.secretcinema.org alternative, scary world. experiments create an laboratory’s secret paranormal turned upsidedown whena Indiana have theirworld 1980s, residents insuburban rather thanafilm.Setinthe based onaTVprogramme the teamismakinganevent 13 Nov). Thisisthefirst time

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LONDON PLANNER LONDON

Based onRoaldDahl’s bookaboutagirl Secret Cinema

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FRPPLQJWKLVZHHN DVWKLQNDEHWWHURQH IRUQRZ 3OVKROGRƪZRUNRQWKLV oftheopera.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. SW1Y 4QL.T: 2707. 0844-412 www.thephantom musical.com. Station:D8. CoventGarden. WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-2007981.www.tinathe Tickets £10-£159.50. ‘n’ roll, withherbest-loved hits. Checkfor times. Musical basedonthelife ofthequeenrock TINA –THETINA TURNERMUSICAL www.thrillerlive.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. 29 Shaftesbury Ave, T: 9674. W1D7ES. 0844-482 career. Checkfor timesandprices. Songs anddancecelebrate MichaelJackson’s THRILLER LIVE musical.com. Station:D8. CoventGarden. 5PF. T: 020-7452 www.schoolofrockthe 3000. Theatre, WC2B Lane, 166Drury musicians. Checkfor times. Tickets £15-£150. A teachertriestoteachhispupilsberock OFROCK:THEMUSICALSCHOOL Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 ww.trh.co.uk. 8800. £175. £25-£175. Opera House.Pleasecheckfor times. Tickets A mysterious masked manhauntstheParis THE PHANTOM OFTHEOPERA , Haymarket,

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When Joe Simpsonson fell and broke his leg in a storm in the Andes, his climbing partner Simon hadhad no choice but to cut the rope that attachedached them. Left alaloneone at the bottom of a crevicecrevice,, Joe wasn’t thinking about thehe bookbook he’dhe’d write, or the Bafta-winningng film that it would inspire. Thirty yearsears after his book was published, the stageage version ooff TouchingTouching the Void is at thee DukDukee ofof York’sYork’s Theatre (from 9 Nov; p. 66).66). Josh Williams, who hasas pperformederformed in RomeoRomeo and Juliet at Shakespeare’sakespeare’s Globe, plays the lead, while climberlimber AnAngusgus Yellowlees stars as Simon. ThisThis drama is as tighttight as Joe’s grip on thatt rope.

WAITRESS HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD Jenna dreams of a way out of her small town life Harry’s son has an unwanted legacy. Check for via a baking contest. Check for times. Tickets returns and times. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury £19.50-£150. , 409-412 Strand, Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. www.harrypotter WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. www.waitressthe theplay.com. Station: Leicester Square. D7. musical.co.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E8. THE LION, THE WITCH AND THE WARDROBE The back story of the witches of Oz with From 9 Nov: Children enter a magical the hit tune Defying Gravity. Check for times. world through a wardrobe. Check for times. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. , Tickets £15-£69.50. , 3 Potters Field 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. www.bridge www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F7. theatre.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. E11.

PLAYS LUNGS THE COMEDY ABOUT A BANK ROBBERY To 9 Nov: Claire Foy and Matt Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of Smith star in this comical emotional rollercoaster. a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£65. The , 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. T: 0844-815 6131. www.thecomedyaboutabank www.oldvictheatre.com. Station: Waterloo. F9. robbery.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. THE MAN IN THE WHITE SUIT FRANKENSTEIN Sidney (Stephen Mangan) invents a fabric To 30 Nov: Based on Mary that never gets dirty. Check for times. Tickets Shelley’s classic. Check for times. Tickets £14-£22. £17.50-£90. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross , 77-85 Newington Causeway, Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. www.delfont SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. www.southwarkplay mackintosh.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7. house.co.uk. Station: and Castle. Off map. THE MOUSETRAP GROAN UPS A murderer strikes at a party in ’s Comedy about growing up. Please check for long-running whodunnit. Check for times and times and prices. Vaudeville, 404 Strand, WC2R prices. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. www.vaudeville-theatre. T: 0844-499 1515. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk.

co.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E8. Station: Leicester Square. D7. TOUCHING THE VOID © MICHAEL WHARLEY

64 | LONDON PLANNER ‘A REBORN DREAM OF A PRODUCTION’ Dominic Cavendish, Daily Telegraph

FORF O R T THEH E 212 1 STS T CENTURY C E N T U R Y Huffington Post

FROM 18 TH DECEMBER 2019 lesmis.com | , LONDON

TM © 1986 CMOL TM © 1986 CMOL A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE Entertainment

NOISES OFF Comedy about unprofessional actors. Check for times and prices. , 2 Charing Crosss Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. www.garrick theatre.org. Station: Leicester Square. E7/8.

THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Check for times. Tickets £20-£72. , 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. www.theplay thatgoeswrong.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.

TOUCHING THE VOID From 9 Nov: Based on Joe Simpson’s memoir (p. 64). Check for times and prices. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. www.dukeof yorkstheatre.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8. A-ha at the RAH!

WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION Best-known for their 1984 classic hit Take on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama Me, Norwegian band A-ha perform old hits based on a murder trial. Check for times. Tickets and new tracks at the Royal Albert Hall – in from £10-£79.50. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South particular from their 1985 album, Hunting High Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. www.witness and Low (5 Nov). www.royalalberthall.com

countyhall.com. Station: Waterloo. F8. ALBERT HALL A-HA COURTESY OF ROYAL ++++ “A GHOST PLAY GUARANTEED TO SEND SHIVERS DOWN YOUR SPINE” NEIL NORMAN, DAILY EXPRESS 2018

CELEBRATING THREE SPINE - TINGLING DECADES OF

SUSAN HILL’S

ADAPTED BY STEPHEN MALLATRATT

thewomaninblack.com , COVENT GARDEN

66 | LONDON PLANNER ‘A RAW MUSICAL TRIUMPH.’ ANN TRENEMAN,

+++++ DAILY TELEGRAPH +++++ METRO +++++ THE SUN +++++ DAILY EXPRESS +++++ DAILY MAIL

THERE IS ONLY ONE

THE MUSICAL

NOW BOOKING UNTIL JUNE 2020 TinaTheMusical.com Entertainment

THE WOMAN IN BLACK MAMMA MIA THE PARTY! A lawyer visits a spooky remote house to settle Enjoy ABBA songs while dining in a Greek taverna. affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Check for times and prices. The O2, Peninsula Tickets £21.50-£52. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2. WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. www.thewoman co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. inblack.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. SECRET CINEMA: STRANGER THINGS IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES Spectacular experience themed around the series Á LA DINE (p. 62). Secret location. www.secretcinema.org. for adults with dinner and wine. Tue-Sun 6.30pm. Tickets £30-£75. The Vaults, THE WOLF OF WALL STREET Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. Enter the world of a millionaire. Tickets £59.95. www.thevaults.london. Station: Waterloo. F8. Secret location. www.immersivewolf.com.

CRYSTAL MAZE LIVE EXPERIENCE CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Fun, interactive show based on a retro TV show. Check for times and prices. 22-32 Shaftesbury To 30 Nov: Les Misérables. Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. www.the-crystal- Concert starring Michael Ball. Shaftesbury maze.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. JEFF WAYNE’S THE WAR OF THE WORLDS ROYAL ALBERT HALL Experience the Martian invasion from HG 21-24 Nov: Classical Spectacular. Popular Wells’ 1898 science fiction novel. Check for classical music. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. times and prices. 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ. T: 020-7589 8212. www.royalalberthall.com. www.dotdot.london. Station: Aldgate. D11. South Kensington. G4.

68 | LONDON PLANNER ‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW YORK POST

THE MUSICAL

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H London’s major theatre and music venues can be 24 ...... A1 40 St Martin’s ...... A2 located on the map above using the grid reference 25 Lyceum ...... B3 41 Savoy ...... B2 in the key below. 26 Lyric ...... B1 42 Shaftesbury ...... A2 27 Menier Chocolate 43 Shakespeare’s Globe... D Visit London has a secure online booking service Factory ...... D 44 ...... B3 28 National Theatre ...... C3 45 Theatre Royal for all major current and forthcoming theatre 29 Noël Coward ...... B2 Drury Lane ...... A3 productions. 30 Novello ...... A3 46 Theatre Royal 31 Old Red Lion ...... E Haymarket ...... B1 To book tickets go to www.visitlondon.com 32 Old Vic ...... C4 47 Trafalgar Studios ...... C2 33 Palace ...... A1 48 Vaudeville ...... B2 Key to 34 Phoenix ...... A1 49 Victoria Palace ...... F 35 Piccadilly ...... B1 50 Waterloo 1 Adelphi ...... B2 13 Duchess ...... A/B3 36 Playhouse ...... C2 East Theatre ...... C4 2 Ambassadors ...... A2 14 Duke of York’s ...... B2 37 Prince Edward ...... A1 51 Wyndham’s ...... B2 3 Aldwych ...... A3 15 Fortune ...... A2/3 38 Prince of Wales ...... B1 52 ...... C4 4 Apollo Theatre ...... B1 16 Garrick ...... B2 39 Queen’s ...... B1(reopens Dec) 5 Apollo Victoria ...... F 17 Gielgud ...... A1 Key to Dance, Music and Multi-arts Venues 6 Arts ...... B2 18 Gillian Lynne ...... A2 7 ...... G 19 ...... B1 53 Barbican Hall ...... G 58 St James’s Piccadilly 8 Cambridge ...... A2 20 Her Majesty’s ...... B1 54 ...... B2 church ...... B1 9 ..B2 21 King’s Head Theatre ..E 55 Peacock ...... A3 59 St Martin-in-the-Fields 10 Criterion ...... B1 22 Leicester Square 56 Ronnie Scott’s ...... A1 church ...... B2 11 Dominion ...... A1 Theatre ...... B1 57 Royal Opera 60 Sadler’s Wells ...... E 12 .... A2 23 ...E House ...... A2 61 Southbank Centre ...... C3

70 | LONDON PLANNER ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS CHURCH Lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals In the heart of (p. 32). Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8. Leicester Square

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD THE JAZZ CAFÉ 18 Nov: A Night of Whitney. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. www.thejazzcafe london.com. Station: Camden Town. Off map. Open 7 days THE O2 a week To 22 Nov: Little Mix. 30 Nov: The Chemical Brothers. Check for times and prices. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.the o2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.

RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB 15-24 Nov: London Jazz Festival (p. 60). 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.

DANCE THE PEACOCK To 9 Nov: ZooNation: Some Like it Hip Hop. Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Holborn. D8.

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE From 7 Nov: The Sleeping Beauty. Check for times and prices. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.uk. Station: Covent Garden. D8.

SADLER’S WELLS 7-9 Nov: Rambert. From 21 Nov: The Snowman. Check for times and prices. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Angel. Off map. CHILDREN & FAMILIES THE FURTHER ADVENTURES OF THE OWL AND THE PUSSY CAT To 17 Nov: The duo search for a ring. Check for times and prices. Little Angel, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN T: 020-7226 1787. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Station: Angel. Off map.

THE CANTERVILLE GHOST From 10 Nov: Spooky version of ’s 1887 comic novel. Check for times and prices. , 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. www.unicorntheatre.com. Station: London Bridge. E11. Last minute & discount

SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS theatre tickets

THE FREE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE LONDONNOV 19 • LONDONPLANNER.COM

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NOVEMBER 2019 | 71 Novak Djokovic at the Nitto ATP Finals Sport Tennis-tastic... ivalries are renewed on the dazzling tennis These three long-standing champions in all courts at The O2, where the Nitto ATP Grand Slams need no introduction, but it is Finals see the world’s top eight men, in exciting to see other players make their debut in singles and doubles, play in a thrilling the tournament, including Russian star Daniil eight-dayR tournament (10-17 Nov). Although Medvedev, who qualified for the first time this London is famed as the home of the graceful year. ‘It’s amazing,’ he said. ‘That shows what Wimbledon Championships in summer, this a great year I’m having, that the work I’ve been indoor tournament adds a different pizzazz to doing is paying off.’ the sport. At the time of writing, the three most Look out for Greek player Stefanos Tsitsipas, successful men’s tennis champions, , who at just 21 years old is showing all the signs of Roger Federer and Novak Djokovic, had all a great career, as well as Croatian doubles player booked their places. Mate Pavić and Germany’s Alexander Zverev. For Federer, this is the record-extending 17th In contrast to these young players, the Royal time he has qualified – and he’s thrilled. ‘I really Albert Hall is playing host to the Champions look forward to returning to The Tennis (28 Nov-1 Dec). Watch past tennis stars O2,’ he said. ‘It is always one including five-time Grand Slam winner Martina of the main goals to qualify Hingis, recently retired David Ferrer and the for the year-end event. entertaining Mansour Bahrami. I love competing there www.nittoatpfinals.com; www.royalalberthall.com among the top players.’ – Emma Levine

Alexander Zverev at the Nitto ATP Finals

Champions Tennis at the Royal Roger Federer at Hall Nitto ATP Finals

72 | LONDON PLANNER INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central London map (p. 98). For more events and information, see www.visitlondon.com/events

WATCH architecture, history and sporting faces. Please AMERICAN FOOTBALL check for dates and times. Adult £15; child £5. 3 Nov: Houston Texans vs Jacksonville Jaguars. , SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. www.nflonlocation.com. Wembley Stadium, www.kiaoval.com. Station: Oval. Off map. see ‘Wembley Tours’ for address. TOTTENHAM HOTSPUR STADIUM TOUR FOOTBALL A 90-minute look behind the scenes at the new, 30 Nov: England vs Montenegro (Euro qualifier). world-class stadium. Check for times. Adult £30; Wembley Stadium, see ‘Wembley Tours’ for address. child £15. 782 High Rd, N17 0BX. T: 020-3929 1882. www.tottenhamhotspur.com/tours. Station: fixtures (subject to change): Seven Sisters. Off map. 2 Nov: Arsenal vs Wolves. 23 Nov: Arsenal vs Southampton. , see ‘Arsenal TWICKENHAM WORLD RUGBY Stadium Tour’ for address. MUSEUM & STADIUM TOUR The world’s largest stadium dedicated to rugby. 9 Nov: Chelsea vs Crystal Palace. 30 Nov: Check for times and days. Adult £25; child £15. Chelsea vs West Ham. Stamford Bridge, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020- see ‘Chelsea FC Stadium Tour’ for address. 8892 8877. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Station: Twickenham. Off map. 9 Nov: Tottenham vs Sheffield United.30 Nov: Tottenham vs Bournemouth. Tottenham Hotspur THE WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR Stadium, see ‘Tottenham Hotspur Stadium Tour’ See the UK’s largest sports and music venue. for address. Check for times. Adult £19; child £12. Olympic Way, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. www.wembley 2 Nov: West Ham vs Newcastle. 23 Nov: West stadium.com. Station: Wembley Park. Off map. Ham vs Tottenham. , Queen

O EliElizabethz Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 020-8548 2742748.8 www.whufc.com. ATP W ATP / TOURSTOU & MUSEUMS ARSENALARS STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM Self-guidedSelf audio tours include the changing roomsroom and players’ tunnel. Check for times, pricespric and legends tours. Drayton Park, N5 1BU. T: 02020-7619 5000. www.arsenal.com. Station: HHollowayoll Road/Arsenal/ Park. Off map. RRoad/Arsenal/Finsburyoad Park. Off map.

/WONDERHATCH; WEMBLEY STADIUM IMAGE WEMBLEY STADIUM /WONDERHATCH; Cheer on the O ATP FINALS IMAGES © PETER STAPLES O ATP CHELSEACHE FC STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM

NITTO ATP FINALS IMAGES © PETER STAPLES/ATP WORLD TOUR; ROYAL ALBERT HALL © SIMON JOHN WORLD TOUR; ROYAL FINALS IMAGES © PETER STAPLES/ATP NITTO ATP NITT IMAGE COURTESY OF WEMBLEY STADIUM WEMBLEY STADIUM OWEN OWEN/WONDERHATCH; New self-guided tour including the dressing Lionesses roomroom and players’ tunnel. Check for times and Emma Levine, Sport Editor prices.pric Stamford Bridge, Rd, SW6 1HS. T: 0371-811 1955. www.chelseafc.com. Station: Women’s football has come on in leaps and FFulham Broadway. Off map. bounds in the past year, highlighted during the 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup in France. Join LORD’SLOR TOUR & MCC MUSEUM thousands of fans to watch England v Germany GuidedGuid tour of the home of , including in an international friendly (9 Nov) at Wembley the pavilion.p Booking essential. St John’s Wood Stadium, in preparation for the UEFA Euro Rd,Rd, NW8N 8QN. T: 020-7616 8595. www.lords.org. 2021 Championships. The Lionesses, aka the Station:Stat St John’s Wood. C4. England team, are gunning to build on their strong standing – they narrowly lost in the World KIA OVAL GROUND TOURS Cup semi-finals to the USA, the eventual winners. TourTou the famous ground, home of Surrey CCC www.wembleystadium.com sincesinc 1845 and host to England matches. See the

NOVEMBER 2019 | 73 All images: Handmade Shopping Chelsea

Countdown to Christmas f you’re determined to avoid the last-minute curated selection of homeware and jewellery panic of finding that perfect festive present oozes style and sophistication, with a healthy and want to light upp someonesomeone’s s Christmas dose of the unusual ensuringensu that objects as Day with somethingg a littlelittle more excitingexciting mundanemundane as a pestlepestle andand mortar become mini Ithan a gift card, Handmademade CChelseahelsea worksworks of art (www.thwww.thenewcraftsmen.come ). (8-10 Nov) is the eventt for yoyou.u. More than A slightlyslightly ddifferentifferent spin on British craft can 100 exhibitors descendd on OOldld CChelseahelsea bebe foundfound at CCamdenamden Market’s To Home from Town Hall to provide vvisitorsisitors with an LondonLondon, where quirquirkyk illustrative designs have opportunity to purchasease and commission beenbeen fashionedfashioned intointo cute souvenirs and gifts. pieces from some of thehe world’s See London’s landmarksla featured on bags, best designer-makers. AlongsideAlongside mugs,mugs, coacoastersste and cushions and a dedicated Christmass area full marvelmarvel at tthe amusing depictions to bursting with artisanalanal food ofof membersmemb of and and seasonally-themedd treats, characterscharact from Harry Potter extraordinary levels off (www.tohomefromlondon.comwww.t ). craftsmanship will be on Finally,Finall if you remember display. Look out for London’sondon’s stampingstampin bits of paper with very own Steven Harkin,in, who a cut potatopota covered in paint turns British leather intonto (creating(creating wawall art only your mother covetable arm candy, aass well as couldcould lovelove),), BBlade Rubber Stamps the architectural beautyty of pieces ooffersffers a sophisticatedsophi nod to this retro created by jeweller Charlotteharlotte Reid paspastime.time. Its HolbornH store is packed (www.handmadeinbritain.co.uktain.co.uk).). wwithith rubberrubber sstamps that encourage Further displays of handcraftedandcrafted ccraftraft (wwww.bladerubberstamps.co.ukww.bl ). excellence can be foundnd at The ThaThat’st’s ChChristmasris sorted.

New Craftsmen in MMayfair.ayfair. The – KathrynKathryn CoConway IMAGES COURTESY OF HANDMADE CHELSEA

74 | LONDON PLANNER INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for our Central London map (p. 98). Normal opening hours are approximately 10am-6pm (Sun 11am- 5pm); some stores open until late on Thur

MAJOR STORES

FORTNUM & MASON Iconic store established in 1707. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. www.fortnum andmason.com. Station: Green Park. E7.

HARRODS Famous store with top fashion labels and jewellery, plus a food hall. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www..com. Station: . F5.

JOHN LEWIS Hats, gifts, beauty and electrical items. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. www.johnlewis.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D6.

LIBERTY Beauty, haberdashery and unique fabrics. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. Bargain hunt www.liberty.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7. Those who love the thrill of finding a good deal MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS will already have 29 November marked in their ICON AT THE O2 diary. This frenzied shopping extravaganza, Discounts on designer brands. The O2, Pensinsula known as Black Friday, started in the US as Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.iconat a post-Thanksgiving Day bargain bonanza and theo2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset. has now established itself in the UK. We have Amazon to thank for its introduction to LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET Britain, with the company adopting the Find discounts of up to 70 per cent off big brands. tradition in 2010. Last year, the online retailer Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0QL. T: 020-8912 swapped clicks for bricks when it established 5210. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Station: a Black Friday pop-up on High Wembley Park/Wembley Stadium. Off map. Street, so we’re hoping for something similar this year. Shopping hubs such as and will be predictably frenetic, This huge mall has luxury and high-street shops. but John Lewis & Partners and Hamleys Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. www.uk. should be ports of call on your shopping list. westfield.com. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset.

WESTFIELD HAMLEYS A cinema, bowling and 270 stores. 2 Stratford One of the world’s biggest, most varied toy shops. Place, Montfichet Rd, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0371-704 1977. www.uk.westfield.com. Station: Stratford. Map inset. www.hamleys.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.

SPECIALIST STORES THE HARRY POTTER SHOP BUCKINGHAM PALACE SHOP AT PLATFORM 9¾ Royal souvenirs. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, Souvenirs and collectibles. King’s Cross Station, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. www.royal N1 9AP. T: 020-3196 7375. www.harrypotter

GRAPHIC IMAGE © ISTOCK collectionshop.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6. platform934.com. Station: King’s Cross. Off map.

OCTOBER 2019 | 75 Shopping

ROCK SHOP – OLD PARK LANE NW1 6XE. T: 020-7935 4464. www.beatles Hard Rock clothing and accessories. 1 Old Park storelondon.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D5. Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. www.shop. hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. F6. LONDON GLASSBLOWING STUDIO Watch glass objects being created and browse ROCK SHOP – PICCADILLY CIRCUS pieces for sale. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. The world’s largest Hard Rock store has a huge T: 020-7403 2800. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk. range of lines. 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. Station: London Bridge. F11. T: 020-7287 4600. www.shop.hardrock.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. F6. THE NOBLE COLLECTION Licensed, finely crafted treasures from Harry IT’S ONLY ROCK ‘N’ ROLL Potter and The Lord of the Rings. 26-28 Neal St, Shop selling rock memorabilia. 230 Baker St, WC2H 9PS. T: 020-3795 6298. www.noble NW1 5RT. T: 020-7224 0277. www.itsonlyrocknroll collection.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. D8. london.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. C5. RED BUS SHOP JAPAN CENTRE Souvenir gift shop with London- Japanese food and ceramics. themed goods. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 (and branches). T: 020-7401 7033. www. 1246. www.japancentre.com. Liberty opened redbusshop.co.uk. Station: Waterloo. F8. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. in 1875, after Arthur Lasenby TWININGS LONDON BEATLES STORE Liberty Browse numerous and infusions borrowed London’s only Beatles shop stocks £2,000 from his at one of London’s oldest shops. 216 new and vintage memorabilia, T-shirts father-in-law Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. and accessories. 231-233 Baker St, www.twinings.co.uk. Station: Temple. D8. IMAGE © ISTOCK

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plates ofcheese as sit atthecounter andgrab as many way asasushiconveyor belt:diners Market served withEarlGrey teajelly. a pungentcheese from Somerset treacle spread, orRenegade Monk, whichcomeswith bacon Rollright, prefer strong cheese,optfor you sherry-poached cherries. If to acrumblyWensleydale –and pineapple, orFellstone –similar cheese served withsweet andsour SampleGubbeen,alight Irish to basil-stewed blackberries. ranging from figandcocoaspread producers, paired withcondiments with cheesemadebysmallBritish All25platesare puttogether are according totheplates’colours. P A bigcheese Pick &Cheese has openedin UK’s first cheeseconveyor belt a newrestaurant featuring the repare toloosenyour beltas in Covent Garden. works inthesame they lik Seven Dials e. Pri ces 7428 6441.www.thecheesebar.com Short’s WC2H9AT. Garden, T: 020- – Sarah Riches occasional too, uptosix.Lookout, for groups of two boothsthatseat book oneof want tolingerfor more thananhour, or aquickevening bite,butifyou Pick&Cheeseisidealfor lunch orange winewithspicynotes. the BenimaquíaTinajas, aSpanish 75ml, soyou can tryafew –perhaps the natural Glassesare winelist. LesCaves dePyrene hascreated bresaola andSuffolk salami. beef charcuterie platessuch as Hereford You can alsonibbleonBritish industry thatwas onceindecline.’ when you buythem,you supportan so many amazing Britishcheeses– Stables Market. Hesays: ‘There are and TheCheeseBarinCamden’s Street Market nearLondonBridge behind TheCheeseTruck atMaltby Founder Mathew Carve isalso talks andworkshops.

IMAGES © NIC CRILLY-HARGRAVE PHOTOGRAPHY

INFO To dial the UK, remove the firstst 0 and add 44. Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are ccoordinatesoordinates for our Central London map (p. 98). Pricesces shown are for a three-course meal. £: up to £20 pperer person. ££: £20-£40 per person. £££: £40 or moreore per persopersonn

A child in a sweet shop Sarah Riches, Eating Out Editor

The Chesterfield hotel has transformed its conservatory into a traditional sweet shop for its Original Sweet Shop Afternoon Tea, with shelves stocked Revieweview with oversized Sherbet Fountains, Drumsticks and Parma Violets. On arrival, we were treated to a shot of pink lemonade in a cloud of dry ice. After sandwiches and chocolate chip scones, we shared chocolate lollipops, a Liquorice Allsorts cheesecake, a cherry cupcake and a rhubarb and custard macaron. Then a waiter dressed like a member of a barbershop quartet in a red bow tie, red-and-white stripy blazer and a straw hat served us sweets from jars on a cart with a canopy. Our three-year-old reviewer, Athena, said: ‘I liked the strawberry milkshake best.’ 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com

AMERICAS CAFE BUBBA GUMP SHRIMP CO. All-day dining in a mock rainforest, with This fun seafood restaurant is themed around life-size animatronic and a family-friendly the film Forrest Gump. Load up on ribs, shrimp menu. Daily L & D. ££. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D and mac and cheese. Daily L & D. ££. 13 Coventry 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. www.therainforestcafe. St, W1D 7AB. T: 020-3763 5288. www.bubbagump co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. shrimp.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. BRITISH HARD ROCK CAFE LONDON BILL’S The original London branch of this burger bar is British and European brasserie with all-day dining, decorated with rock memorabilia. Save room for including fish pie and steaks. Daily B, L & D. ££. the apple cobbler. Daily L & D. ££. 150 Old Park 36-44 Brewer St, W1F 9TB (and branches). Lane, W1K 1QZ (and branch). T: 020-7514 1700. T: 020-7287 8712. www.bills-website.co.uk. www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

HARD ROCK CAFE PICCADILLY CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT Rock memorabilia, a fun atmosphere and an Underneath a church, this café serves hearty extensive menu including wings, nachos and English food. Try the crumble. Mon-Sat B, L & D; ribs (p. 82). Daily L & D. ££. Criterion Building, Sun 11am-6pm. £. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. T: 020-7287 4600. of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. www.hardrock.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.

PLANET HOLLYWOOD CHENESTON’S RESTAURANT Hollywood-inspired dining with an This wood-panelled dining room offers a classic international menu plus film memorabilia. Daily menu, with dishes such as venison. Daily B, L & D. L & D (bar to 1am). ££. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y £££. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. www.planethollywood 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. www.milestonehotel.com.

london.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Station: High Street Kensington. Off map. IMAGES COURTESY OF THE CHESTERFIELD MAYFAIR

80 | LONDON PLANNER SEA SHELL WORLDFISH FAMOUS AND ICONIC CHIPS BRITISH SINCE 1956 WHEN IN LONDON EAT WHERE LONDONERS EAT 020 7224 9000 www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk

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NOVEMBER 2019 | 81 Eating Out

ST PANCRAS BRASSERIE & SEAFOOD Graceful, high-ceilinged dining room, and a long SEA SHELL Champagne bar overlooking the This decades-old restaurant with an aquarium terminal (p. 22). Daily B, L & D. ££. Upper at the back serves fish and chips and British Concourse, St Pancras International, N1C 4QL. desserts. Daily L & D. ££. 49-51 , T: 020-7870 9900. www.searcys.co.uk. Station: NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. www.seashell King’s Cross St Pancras. C7/8. restaurant.co.uk. Station: Marylebone. C5. GASTROPUBS SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE & BAR The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse THE PORCUPINE has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace This is known for its real ale and roasts. Mon- at the front. Daily L & D. ££. 42-44 Great Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 48 Charing Cross Rd, Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and Chelsea branch). WC2H 0BS. T: 020-7379 9855. www.nicholsons T: 020-7836 8836. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. .co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. WHITE HORSE CHINESE This pub is full of character and has a lunchtime DIM T buffet. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££.16 Dine on dim sum, noodles, crispy duck and Newburgh St, W1F 7RY. T: 020-7494 9748. www. Korean fried chicken, while overlooking nicholsonspubs.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7. fountains and Tower Bridge. Daily L & D. £. 2 More London Place, Tooley St, SE1 2DB (and WHITE SWAN branches). T: 020-7403 7000. www.dimt.co.uk. Enjoy fish and chips, grilled dishes and mezze. Station: London Bridge. E11. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 14 New Row, WC2N 4LF. T: 020-3077 1129. www.nicholsons ROYAL CHINA BAKER STREET pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8. This huge flagship branch, decorated with red lanterns, is known for its dim sum and crispy INDIAN aromatic duck. Daily L & D. ££. 24-26 Baker St, AMAYA W1U 3BZ (and branches). This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open T: 020-7487 4688. www. grill kitchen. Daily L & D. £££. Halkin Arcade, rcguk.co.uk. Station: 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. Baker Street. D6. www.amaya.biz. Station: Knightsbridge. F6.

‘The Pink Piccadilly Pimm’s Review Review is unique to this branch’ Hear those trumpets – or should we say sax? – as Hard Rock Cafe (p. 80) has opened a long-awaited second London branch. The fanfare has drawn fans to the basement restaurant, where music videos blareblare out anandd pop parapparaphernaliahernalia aadorndorn the walls – look out for ’ gold blazer and ’s purple velvet trousers.trousers. Portions are generousgen – we shared crispy prawnsprawns and nachos fofollowed by fajitas and salmon, served with mmango salsa and chargrilled corn. YouY can also order burgers, includinginc one with 24-carat goldg leaf (left). Finish with a boozy milkshake or the Pink Piccadilly Pimm’s, which comes with an edible picture of the Tower of London (left). – Sarah Riches IMAGES COURTESY OF HARD ROCK CAFE

82 | LONLONDONNDON PPLANNERLALANNNNERER London’s hidden café Café in the Crypt Breakfast Lunch Afternoon Tea Pre-Theatre Dinner Underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square www.smitf.org

Serving healthy and indulgent, seasonal dishes Founded by Sussex greengrocer Bill Collison, Bill’s has always stayed true to its roots. Open all day and into the night, we’re well-known for our legendary breakfasts, veg-centric lunches, and A la carte dinners. Catering for groups from 10-90 in the heart of London. Find us in Soho, Covent Garden, Baker St, Holborn, Victoria.

Please contact [email protected] for more information: bills-website.co.uk

NOVEMBER 2019 | 83 Eating Out

CHUTNEY MARY INTERNATIONAL Fine-dining Indian restaurant with THE CAVENDISH dishes such as Kerala fish curry and For a Enjoy a wide variety of European Hyderabadi lamb shank. Stay for traditional dishes. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 35 New drinks at the Pukka Bar. Daily L & D. taste of east Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 ££. 73 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. London, try pie 3030. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. and mash, or T: 020-7629 6688. www.chutney jellied eels with Station: Baker Street. D6. mary.com. Station: Green Park. E7. parsley liquor THE TERRACE FARZI CAFE This restaurant and bar above Modern Indian restaurant with unusual dishes Charing Cross station dates back 150 years. such as avocado chaat, Wagyu beef Scotch eggs Choose from sandwiches, salads and Italian and artichoke kofta. Try the pre-theatre menu, dishes. Daily B, L & D. ££. Amba Hotel Charing along with its refresing Ayurvedic cocktails. Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 8 Haymarket, SW1Y 4BP. www.amba-hotel.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8. T: 020-3981 0090. www.farzilondon.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. ITALIAN CAFFÈ CONCERTO LITTLE INDIA This popular chain of cafés has just refurbished This cosy restaurant near the Royal Albert Hall its Kensington branch (p. 86). Daily B, L & D. ££. specialises in North Indian tandoori cuisine. 88 Kensington High St, W8 4SG (and branches). Daily L & D. ££. 32 Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7494 6850. www.caffeconcerto.co.uk. T: 020-7584 3476. www.littleindialondon.com. Station: High Street Kensington. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road. Off map. GRANAIO MASALA ZONE This spacious restaurant serves Italian A vibrant restaurant that serves street food, thalis classics in grand surroundings – note the golden and regional curries. Daily L & D. £. 48 Floral St, mosaic ceiling. It has a pre-theatre, two- and three- WC2E 9DA (and branches). T: 020-7379 0101. course menu. Daily L & D. ££. 224 Piccadilly, www.masalazone.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8. W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. www.ristorante granaio.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. VEERASWAMY The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has a Michelin VERDI ITALIAN KITCHEN star, an opulent interior and traditional dishes Dine on pizzas and pasta or afternoon tea in such as Kerala-style venison and six-hour lamb this family-friendlyly fri restaurant. Tue-Sun L & D. shank. Daily L & D. £££. 99 Regent St,, WW1B1B 4RS4RS.. ££. DoorDoor 12, RoyalR Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, T: 020-7734 1401. www.veeraswamy.com.www.veeraswamy.com. Station: SW7 2AP. T: 020-707002 4401. www.royalalbert PiccadillyPiccadilly Circus.Circus. E7. hall.com/verdi.hall.com/verdi. Station: South Kensington. F4.

WILDWOODWILDWOOD TuckTuck into papasta,sta pizza and risotto or try the wildwild boar andand chorizo burger. Daily L & D. £-££.£-££. 35-3635 Bow St, WC2E 7AU (an(andd branches). T: 020-7836 8640. wwwww.wildwoodrestaurants.co.uk. SStation: Covent Garden. E8.

GO GREEN November is World Vegan Month, so celebrate at Wulf & Lamb restaurant in Sloane Square, which hahas a plant-based menu. wwwwww.wulfandlamb.com IMAGE COURTESY OF WULF & LAMB; ICON © ISTOCK ADVERTORIAL

EL PIRATA For more than 25 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of PRESENT ADVERT TO SERVER BEFORE ORDERING Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses 20% OFF the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico. Celebrity fans include Brian May and FOOD, SOFT DRINKS + MERCHANDISE* , and food critics are unanimous in their praise of this ‘Spanish gem’. RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair, W1 7AQ. BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN) 020 7491 3810/020 7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Green Park. Map C5

AUTHENTIC THAI CUISINE

at the award winning THAI POT since 1992

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL Awarded: 020 7287 1000 Authentic Thai Food – planethollywoodlondon.com Ministry of Commerce, Thailand 57-60 HAYMARKET 4 stars – LONDON SW1Y 4QX Master Chef UK TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ Thai Select Award – Department of Export Discount applicable to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ meal deal) Promotion, Ministry of paying by cash or card only. Valid until 30/4/20. Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Subject to availability. Commerce, Thailand 1 voucher per table max. 8 persons. CODE: LPLAN 1 Bedfordbury, Covent Garden, London WC2N 4BP WATCH SPORT LIVE 020 7379 4580 behind ENO, Coliseum, IN OUR BAR www.thaipot.biz Ë Charing Cross Station (Covent Garden exit) SEE WEBSITE FOR SCHEDULE. 4 stars restaurant at 2 stars price! FULL DRINK AND – food and service others talk about – BAR BITES MENU AVAILABLE.

NOVEMBER 2019 | 85 Eating Out Café society Review

While the cakes on display in the window will draw you in to Caffé Concerto (p. 84), this chain of cafés also serves cooked breakfasts, savoury tarts and light lunches, as well as pasta and risotto if you want an early dinner before the theatre. With high ceilings and chandeliers, Caffé Concerto feels like a grand European café, making it suitable for a business meeting or romantic lunch. Sit outside and people-watch, or stay cosy inside. I had focaccia with goat’s cheese and pesto, followed by mille-feuille, which I couldn’t resist. – Sarah Riches 61 Piccadilly, W1J 0DY (and branches). T: 020-7494 6854. www.caffeconcerto.co.uk

JAPANESE R.S. HISPANIOLA BENIHANA Moored restaurant boat serving European dishes. Chefs grill dishes at your table in a Daily L & D. ££. , WC2N theatrical style. Daily L & D. £££. 37 Sackville 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. www.hispaniola.co.uk. St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. Station: Embankment. E8. www.benihana.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. SOUTH EAST ASIAN ICHIBA MANGO TREE Casual spot for tasty ramen and noodles. Daily, Upmarket Thai restaurant near Buckingham check for times. £. Level 2, Westfield London, Palace. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 46 Grosvenor Place, W12 7HB. T: 020-3405 9410. www.ichiba SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree. london.com. Station: White City. Map inset. org.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.

SAKAGURA THAI POT Izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’. Daily L & D. ££. This casual spot offers good-value dishes such 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. www. as stir-fried beef and sticky rice. Mon-Sat L & D. sakaguralondon.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. £. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. www.thaipot.biz. Station: Covent Garden. E8. RIVERSIDE BATEAUX LONDON YUU KITCHEN See the sights on a cruise with lunch and dinner, Sharing plates inspired by Japanese, Filipino, afternoon tea with a pianist or a Sunday roast with Taiwanese and Hawaiian cuisine. Mon-Tue D; live jazz. Daily L & D; Sun L. £££. Embankment Wed-Sun L & D. £-££. 29 Commercial St, E1 6NE Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. www.bateaux (and branches). T: 020-7377 0411. www.yuu london.com. Station: Embankment. E8. kitchen.com. Station: Aldgate East. Off map.

LONDON SHOWBOAT SPANISH Have lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with jazz. EL PIRATA Booking essential. Boarding at 7.30pm. £££. Much-loved tapas restaurant and bar. Mon-Fri L Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. & D; Sat D. ££. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491

www.citycruises.com. Station: Westminster. F8. 3810. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Green Park. E6. PHOTO COURTESY OF CAFFE CONCERTO

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NOVEMBER 2019 | 87 Nightlife

Lost in Raise the roof he team behind Pergola , Pergola pay online and choose dishes from Thunderbird Olympia and the pergola-clad The Prince Fried Chicken, Fish, Wings & Tings, Jalisco, near Earl’s Court recently launched Lost in Seven at Brixton and Honest Burger. It’ll be Brixton, a rooftop terrace in Brixton Village delivered to your table (www.lostinbrixton.com). T– and yes, it too has a pergola. Skylark Roof Garden, meanwhile, has opened It’s open all year round, as a retractable glass on the 10th floor of an office building near Little roof makes it weatherproof – and with its Venice and has wonderful views of Hyde Park, travel-inspired interior and greenery, it feels the Royal Albert Hall and The Shard. The leafy, tropical, especially when you’re sipping a Latin fairylit deck seats 180 people, with day beds American-style cocktail. Order a drink made available for warm autumn evenings. with rum, tequila, mezcale ca aand d caccachaça aça OwOwner e Adam da Marshall Ma shal says: ‘Try our boozy such as the spiced MMaiai TTai,ai, or ooptpt hot chocolate, mmade with spiced rum, for a beer made by thehe venuvenue’se’s ssaltedalted hhotot cchocolate,ho orange bitters, neighbour, Brixton Brewery.Brewery. nnutmegutmeg anand cinnamon. It’s the With communal tablesables SkylarkSSkSkylarrk RoofRoooooff perperfectfect winterw cocktail to keep and space for 440, itt has SkylarkGardenGardenen Roof you cosyco and warm.’ a sociable vibe. If youou Garden You could also order a want to base yourselflf MezMezcal Mule, made with here all night, you canan smosmoky Mexican mezcal order food from the and ginger beer. A DJ market without havinging plaplaysy until late (www.sky to leave – just scan ththee llarkroofgarden.co.ukark ).

QR code on your table,ble, – SSarahar Riches PHOTOGRAPHY; LOST IN BRIXTON © PASCO CARVELL SKYLARK ROOF GARDEN © NATHAN

88 | LONDON PLANNERNNER IMAGES © BERNARD ZEIJA 7353 6170. Station:7353 6170. Blackfriars. D9. passageways. Expect snug17th-centuryrooms andnarrow YE OLDECHESHIRECHEESE oconnors.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. St, W1D6QG. T: 020-7287 0255.www.waxy beers andwhiskiesplusgreat barfood. huge Waxy’s (above), whichhastraditional Irish A smaller,the slightly quietersistervenue to WAXY’S LITTLESISTER Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. T: 020-7287 0255.www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. menu andfour bars. Huge Irish-themedpubwithlive music,food WAXY O’CONNOR’S www.magpieandstump.com. Station: StPaul’s. D10. 18 OldBailey, EC4M7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. This cosypubdatesbacktothe1500s. MAGPIE &STUMP TRADITIONAL PUBS Elementary www.tayer-elementary.com Closed onSundays. 52OldSt,EC1V9BW. Chinese bites–theporksandowas delicious. PortugueseThere’s and ashortmenuof key flavour (why don’t more bars dothat?). unnamed cocktails ontapdescribedbytheir late. Expectcraft beer, alcoholicslushiesand hip-hop tunes, whileTayēr isdarker andopen Elementary hasfloor-to-ceilingwindows and is theperfect space, asit’s two venues inone. later on, you’re intown for workIf butwant drinks Tayēr +Elementary become one Two Sarah Riches 145 Fleet St,EC4A2BU. T: 020- 14-16 Rupert St,W1D6DD. Review ,

Nightlife Editor

inOldStreet 20 Wardour

Mon-Fri. scotts.co.uk. Station: Tottenham D7. Court Road. St, W1D4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronnie Soho jazzclubwithnightlyperformances. RONNIE SCOTT’S Station: Leicester Square. E7. T: 020-7769 www.hippodromecasino.com. 8888. Cranbourn St,off Leicester Square, WC2H7JH. three floors This landmark24-hour venue hasgaming over HIPPODROME CASINO Station: Leicester Square. E8. T: 020-7240 5534.www.stringfellows.co.uk. dining. best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entrywhen the world’slate Peter Stringfellow and is oneof Opened in1980, thisclubwas establishedbythe STRINGFELLOWS walled whichopenedin1890. basement, global winesinthis brick- Enjoy abigselectionof GORDON’S WINEBAR Station: Monument.D11/E11. T: 0333-772 www.skygarden.london. 0020. garden. has spectacularviewsandathree-storey, tiered This bar, ontheroof ofthe‘Walkie Talkie’ building, CITY GARDENBAR bar.com. Station: Oxford Circus. E7. W1B 4BN. T: 020-7478 8917. www.belowzeroice a cocktail served inan iceglass. basement barmadefrom ice.Entrypriceincludes Wrap upinfaux furcapes andgloves atthis BELOW ZEROICEBAR www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6. 148b OldPark W1K1QZ.T: Lane, 020-7514 1700. a doorfrom AppleStudiossignedbyTheBeatles. vintage andiconicmusicmemorabilia, including Next doortotheHard RockCafe, thisbarhas THE BACK ROOM winebar.com. Station: CharingCross. E8. St, WC2N6NE.T: 020-7930 www.gordons 1408. LIVE ENTERTAINMENT BARS &CLUBS CASINOS INFO for ourCentral Londonmap(p. 98) listings (i.e. Letters atendof drinking ageis18years old. IDmayberequired. are open10pm-3am. TheUK’s legal

Most barsare open11am-11pm, most 16-19 UpperStMartin’s WC2H9EF. Lane, Sky Garden, 20FenchurchSky Garden, St,EC3M8AF. and Heliot, a steak restaurant. asteakrestaurant. and Heliot,

C7) are coordinatesC7) 31-33 Heddon St, 31-33 Heddon St,

47 Villiers 47 Frith 47 Frith FIND YOUROUR Britain’s best-loved towns and cities. In partnership Britain Planner with VisitBritain Anne Hathaway’s Cottage

Something old, something new Forget ‘out with the old, in with the new’ – in Stratford-upon-Avon, there’s room for both, says Sarah Riches

tratford-upon-Avon in Warwickshire If you prefer musicals, then don’t miss The Boy may be best known as the birthplace in the Dress at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre Sof one of the world’s greatest playwrights, (from 8 Nov; www.rsc.org.uk), a comical show but it’s by no means stuck in the 16th century. based on a novel by the children’s author David While you can catch a Shakespearean play Walliams, with new songs by Robbie Williams. most nights of the week, the market town’s Four teenage boys take turns to star as Dennis, a theatres offer new shows, too. 12-year-old footballer who likes wearing dresses. This month you can watch A Museum in While Stratford-upon-Avon is famed for Baghdad, a new play at the Swan Theatre its theatre, there’s more to the town than its (www.rsc.org.uk). Like the town itself, it jumps playhouses. Shakespeare was fond of ‘strong from the past to the present as it follows two water’, so follow in his footsteps and visit women who lived decades apart: Gertrude Bell, Shakespeare Distillery (www.shakespeare a British archaeologist who established a museum distillery.com), an independent brewery that in Iraq in the 1920s, and Ghalia Hussein, who handcrafts gin in small batches. In January, the is attempting to reopen the museum in 2006 distillery moved to new, larger premises 3km out

following looting during the Iraq War. of town. Launching public tours, a gin school © VISIT ENGLAND; COTTAGE SHAKESPEAREANNE HATHAWAY’S DISTILLERY IMAGES COURTESY OF SHAKESPEARE DISTILLERY;

90 | LONDON PLANNER Shakespeare Distillery

Hathaway Tea Rooms

Gin cruise by Shakespeare ShakesPaw Distillery Cat Cafe

and gin cruises, it now offers cocktail classes, Simon’s brother, David, bottling the drink, adding HY; too. I don’t usually kickstart my morning with labels by hand and writing batch numbers on them, a tipple but at Shakespeare Distillery that’s my friend and I sampled the distillery’s range, normal, so I thought it’d be rude not to. which includes mulberry and rhubarb gin – my My tour began with a talk on the history of favourite, when mixed with ginger beer. gin, from the Egyptians using it as a remedy ‘The rhubarb is our visitors’ favourite,’ agreed for jaundice in 1550BC to the ancient Greeks director Peter Moncks. ‘The Stratford Gin, drinking it to cure colic. Founder and head distiller, meanwhile, is almost like you’re drinking Simon Picken, then showed us two distillers, a fresh English garden.’ which are aptly named Portia and . ‘To make our classic Stratford Gin in Ophelia, BARD’S LEGACY OOMS © DANIEL PHOTOGRAP BUXTON DANIEL © OOMS we blend juniper with rosemary, sage, lemon Speaking of English gardens, our next stop was balm, coriander, angelica root and lovage seeds, Shakespeare’s wife’s nearby family home. which are slightly spicy,’ he explained. The thatched Anne Hathaway’s Cottage (www. While distillation takes seven to 10 hours, the shakespeare.org.uk), built in 1463, has a 20-minute HATHAWAY TEA R HATHAWAY SHAKESPAW CAT CAFE COURTESY OF SHAKESPAW CAT CAFE CAFE COURTESY CAT OF SHAKESPAW CAT SHAKESPAW whole process takes two weeks. After watching trail through orchards and woodland. Back in

NOVEMBEROCTOBER 2019 | 91 FIND YOUR Britain Planner Stratford-upon-Avon

David Walliams Hall’s CroftCroft

town you can tour the gardens at Shakespeare’s THE FOOD OF LOVE New Place and visit Hall’s Croft, where the Stop for lunch at ShakesPaw Cat Cafe writer’s eldest daughter lived with her husband. (www.shakespawcatcafe.com), which serves Once you’ve explored its rooms with original sandwiches and cakes as felines slink around flagstone, beams and 17th-century art and you. We enjoyed afternoon tea at Hathaway antiques, admire the 350-year-old mulberry Tea Rooms (www.hathawaytearooms.com); tree in the garden (www.shakespeare.org.uk). built in 1610 as an inn, it’s haunted, with visitors This month, Shakespeare’s Birthplace left shaken by the sight of a young girl on the Trust is throwing a late-night house party staircase. A medium hosts occasional psychic (1 & 2 Nov) hosted by familiar characters Puck nights with seances, tarot card readings and and Ariel (fancy dress optional). Over Throne ghost hunts, which run into the early hours. (9 Nov), meanwhile, looks at disgraced rulers For dinner and drinks, try Burnside Hotel who were overthrown in Shakespeare’s plays. (www.burnsidestratford.co.uk), a thatched-roof For a touch of nature, Stratford-upon-Avon cottage that opened as a hotel in March. The Butterfly Farm (www.butterflyfarm.co.uk) has family-run venue has a restaurant with a tandoor some new in its wildlife collection; look out oven serving dishes such as butter chicken and for green and yellow kakariki from New Zealand. lamb shish. The owner was once in the army and I also spotted a sleepy iguana hidden among the its Saddles Bar has bar stools made from saddles,

leaves – and I even held a tarantula. complete with stirrups to rest your feet upon. © SARA BEAUMONT;STRATFORD-UPON-AVON WALLIAMS © ISTOCK; DAVID CROFT © ART FUND/PHILIPHALL’S SAYER

92 | LONDON PLANNER Stratford-upon-Avon Butterfly Farm

Birthplace of Shakespeare

Royal Shakespeare Theatre

Sarah at the Butterfly Farm

REST FOR THE NIGHT reception and wallpaper depicting audiences I stayed overnight at Baraset Barn (www.baraset standing on balconies. barn.co.uk), a new boutique hotel 5km from the For a piece of history, stay at Macdonald centre. Co-owner Mark Lee says: ‘We opened Alveston Manor Hotel (www.macdonald in March. The hotel is built on three acres, hotels.co.uk) near the River Avon. The venue is surrounded by farmland, so you wake up to actually mentioned in Britain’s earliest census, the sight of sheep outside your window.’ the 1086 Domesday Book. It is also believed The barn and house are named after a college to be the setting of the first performance of in Calcutta (now Kolkata) which a former owner, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, in 1605. While judge William Judd Harding, attended before many of its guest rooms are dated and in need setting up a British judicial system in India in of a refurbishment, it has a spa with treatment the late 1700s. rooms and an indoor pool. The front of the hotel is While the house was demolished in 1928, the charming – its wood-panelled lounge has a real fire. 200-year-old barn remained and was converted As the leaves turn to amber outside, it’s into a restaurant in the ’80s. It serves British the perfect spot to stay warm and think of cuisine made with produce from local orchards Titania’s words: ‘The childing autumn, angry and farms. Have a relaxing evening and sit by winter, change. Their wonted liveries, and the the firepit in the landscaped courtyard, or stay mazed world. By their increase, now knows by the roaring fire in the conservatory. not which is which.’ If you’d rather stay in the town centre, sleep at Hotel Indigo (www.stratford.hotelindigo.com), Getting there: Direct trains between London which opened in May. The Tudor building has Marylebone and Stratford-upon-Avon take wood panelling and original fireplaces, with approximately 2 hrs 15 mins A return ticket contrasting features such as contemporary costs from around £11. www.nationalrail.co.uk

BUTTERFLY FARM IMAGES © @HEALTHY_HOLIDAY; BIRTHPLACE IMAGES FARM OFBUTTERFLY © @HEALTHY_HOLIDAY; SHAKESPEARE SHAKESPEARE AND © VISITENGLAND ROYAL THEATRE prints of the Bard, red velvet curtains behind the

NOVEMBER 2019 | 93 Essential information

TicketTicket iinformationnformation OysterOyster carcardsds & TravelcardsTravelcards An OOysteryster card is a pre-paidpre-paid travel smart card. Use iitt fforor sinsinglegle journeysjourneys on the bus, TuTube,be, tratram,m, DLR, LonLondondon OvergrounOvergroundd and most NationalNational RaiRaill ttrainrain serservicesvices withinwithin tthehe LLondonondon reregion.gion. You can also buy a Visitor OysterOyster card beforebefore yyouou leave home forfor £5 and loloadad it witwithh ccreditredit aatt wwwwww.visitor.visitor shoshop.tfl.gov.ukp.tfl.gov.uk. TThehe ssystemystem has nininene zones; Zone 1 iiss inin cententralral LoLondon.ndon. Buy Oyster cardscards andand DDay TravelcardsT l d fromf ticketti kt machines at stations, eight Getting arounaroundd TfL Visitor Centres and For 24-hour travel info,info, visit or UK-issuedU contactless any Oyster Ticket Shop. Transport for London’s (TfL) payment debit card. For further UK residents can also pay for information, visit www.tfl.gov. their travel with a UK-issued website www.tfl.gov.uk/ contactless debit card. For more visitinglondon or call uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 information, see www.tfl.gov. T: 0343-222 1234. with an Oyster card or a UK- uk/visitinglondon. issued contactless card, London Underground allowing unlimited bus journeys (the Tube) within one hour of touching in. www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map (p. 104-105). www.tfl.gov.uk. See Services run Mon-Sat 5am- 12.30am and Sun 7.30am- London Underground Map 11.30pm on most routes. Night (p. 104-105). Trains run Mon- Tube runs all night Fri & Sat Sat 5am-midnight and Sun

on the Victoria and Jubilee 7am-11.30pm on most routes. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on lines and most of the Central, Northern and Piccadilly lines. Emirates Air Line (London’s www.tfl.gov.uk. cable car) and discounts on Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare single journeys on all Thames is £4.90 (£2.40 Oyster). T: 020-7363 9700. Trains Clippers river buses. For run every three to 10 mins. more information, visit London buses Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. London buses run from Sun 7am-11pm. 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate Taxis Visitor pass Fares increase after 8pm. Don’t London Pass offers free entry and on main routes. Some services discounts at a fixed price. See run 24 hours a day. You cannot use vehicles that approach you, www.visitbritainshop.com. pay cash on the bus, so use except for licensed black cabs. an Oyster card, Travelcard Visit www.tfl.gov.uk. LONDON PLANNER Now on YouTube Subscribe www.youtube.com/LondonPlanner ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

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INFO Prices quoted are for single journeys. Fares and journey times can change. Please check before you travel at www.tfl.gov.uk

Airports

Heathrow Airport T: 0844-335 1801. www.heathrowairport.com. London Underground: Direct trains to/from central London every five minutes 5am-11.45pm via Piccadilly Line. Journey time 60 minutes. Heathrow Express: Four direct trains an hour to/ from Paddington. Journey time 15 minutes. TRAINS : Three coaches per hour to/from Paddington serves the West Country, . Journey time 45 minutes. Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and serve East T: 0844-892 0322. www.gatwickairport.com. Anglia and . Euston King’s ThamesLink T: 0345-026 4700. Direct trains Cross St Pancras Marylebone and to/from London Bridge and St Pancras St Pancras International (connects to International (connects to King’s Cross St King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north, Pancras), and others. Gatwick Express: Direct central and southeast Britain. trains to/from Victoria every 15 minutes. Charing Cross London Bridge The journey takes about 30 minutes. Southern Waterloo and Victoria serve Railway: Direct trains to/from Victoria every 15 minutes. The journey takes 30 minutes. southern England. T: 0845-748 4950. www. National Express: Direct coaches to/from nationalrail.co.uk. Eurostar uses St Pancras Victoria Coach Station, up to two coaches per International. Go to www.eurostar.com. UK: hour. Journey time is one hour 20 minutes. T: 0344-822 4777. International: T: 0343-2186 186. City Airport Car hire T: 020-7646 0088. www.londoncityairport. Make sure your driving licence is valid for com. : Trains the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ (p. 96). to/from Canary Wharf (change at Enterprise -A-Car T: 0800-800 227. Poplar) www.enterprise.co.uk. Hertz T: 020-7365 3369. Bank and many other stations. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd Stansted Airport T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. T: 0844-335 1803. www.stanstedairport.com. hire Stansted Express: Trains to/from Liverpool Street. National Express: Bicycles are for hire from docking stations. Coaches run to/from Victoria Coach Station. £2 for 24 hours. First 30 minutes of each journey Stansted Citylink runs coaches to Stansted are free. www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles Airport from Victoria and King’s or T: 0343-222 6666. Cross St Pancras. Luton Airport Transport symbols explained T: 01582-405 100. www.london-luton.co.uk. ThamesLink T: 0345-026 4700. Direct trains London Underground Docklands from St Pancras International are 40-45 Light Railway London Overground minutes (connects to King’s Cross St London River Pancras) and other stations. National Rail Services Pier

Enjoy London with a Visitor Oyster Card. The easiest way to travel around. For more information or to pre-purchase, go to YLVLWRUVKRSWÁJRYXN

MAYOR OF LONDON Transport for London

NOVEMBER 2019 | 95 Ticket information Essential information

Visitor information centre Find tourist information at the City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8BX. Whether you need directions, information about events or day trip suggestions, speak to the friendly, multilingual team at the only officially recognised tourist information centre in central London. At the centre services include Oyster cards, hotel reservations, foreign exchange, VAT refunds, stamps, postcards and tickets to attractions, tours and theatre shows. There are also Visitor Centres at Holborn, Victoria, Euston, King’s Cross St Pancras, Liverpool Street, Piccadilly Circus, Paddington, Gatwick Airport and Terminals 2 & 3.

Coaches LONDON London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach PLANNER Station, a central hub that offers travel across the For copies of London Planner call T: 020-7611 4669 UK, SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov. Morris Visitor Publications, 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ. T: 020-7242 5222. [email protected]. uk/coaches. Victoria. LondonPlanner LondonPlannerMag LondonPlanner www. www.youtube.com/londonplanner Congestion and ULEZ Charges Managing Editor: Kohinoor Sahota Group Deputy Editor: Sarah Riches Associate & Digital Editor: Neil Simpson Sub Editor: Anna Frame There are congestion charges to drive into central Contributors: Kathryn Conway, Emma Levine, Flora Neighbour, Fabian Pountney London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on Picture Researcher: Tamsan Barratt Group Art Director: Tim Benton Senior Designer: Suzette Scoble Designer: Ella-Louisa Romain the day (£11.50), or the day after (£14). Cars must Content Director: Chris Johnson Production & Distribution Director: Melanie Needham Senior Production Assistant & Retoucher: Dave Weeks also meet the new emissions standards in the Ultra Production Assistant: David Pollard Senior Account Manager: Christiane Heyde Sales Director: Rob Way Senior Sales Development Manager: Low Emission Zone (ULEZ) or pay a daily charge. Charlotte Johnson-Last Sales Development Manager: Kate Roach T: 0343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com. Sales and Marketing Executive: Sam Marzell Sales and Marketing Associate: Miroslava Jamrichova Head of Digital and Audience Development: Leigh-Alexander Austin Operations Director: Bridget Bayford River services Senior Marketing, Distribution & Production Co-ordinator: Graham Randell Office Co-ordinator: Ewa Laskowska Operations Assistant: Vinetta Swan River Bus serves 22 piers. Adult Managing Director: Chris Manning London & Partners: T: 020-7234 5800. www.londonandpartners.com www.visitbritain.com from £4.40; child £2.40. River Roamer on the London Planner Volume 32, Issue 10. Printed in . day adult £19.80; child £9.90. River Roamer Over 100,000 monthly copies distributed worldwide. Est. 1984. © Morris Visitor Publications. No part may be reproduced without advance adult £17.80; child £8.90. Discounts written permission from Morris Visitor Publications. NOTE: The information contained in this publication has been published in good faith on the basis of on single journeys on all Thames Clippers information submitted to Morris Visitor Publications. MVP and VisitBritain cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information in this publication and accept no responsibility for any error or misrepresentation. river buses with an Oyster card/contactless. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or other damages caused by reliance on the information contained in this publication, or in the event of bankruptcy, or liquidation or cessation of trade of any T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. company, individual or firm is hereby excluded. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, ISO 14001 accredited. ISSN 0265 8437 LP/362/Nov19/1104. www.tfl.gov.uk/river. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River

The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable Thames between (The O2) sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. Please recycle this magazine, or return it to your hotel. and the (ExCeL). Board from North Greenwich or Royal Victoria (return flights are available). www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

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96 | LONDON PLANNER CARS LTD

EST 1969

Family business, looking after their customers vehicle rental needs for 50 years this year. Let us meet you at Heathrow & Gatwick or collect from one of twelve branches. Large range of vehicles at low rates. Extensive car range Multiseaters 14 seater minibus Manual/Auto 9 Seater vehicles Electric Hybrids BOOK NOW FOR CHRISTMAS!

Accessible London Call: 080000 7770700 00707 Disabled travellers in London should visit Offices in South London, Canterbury, www.tfl.gov.uk/accessibility or DisabledGo Surrey & . at www.disabledgo.com. For UK details, visit www.kendallcars.com www.openbritain.net.

Travel information For 24-hour London travel information (bus, Tube, river, rail, coach, cycle, tram, car, on foot, accessibility and assisted travel), visit www.tfl. gov.uk/gettingaround or call T: 0343-222 1234. Accommodation Choose luxury hotels, bed and breakfasts, self-catering apartments or hostels. BOOKING Book accommodation before you travel through www.visitlondon.com. Alternatively book through www.expedia.co.uk, which is its official hotel booking partner.

24-hour Tube: Fri & Sat • : Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. • Piccadilly Line: Between and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. BOAT PHOTO © ISTOCK BOAT

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’ R L RIV A E E E A A O RD RD M CL W G P A K SU BRIDGE PLANETARIUM PARK LK M L DLR ELEPHANT A O R E A BA © BTA (trading as visitBritain) 11/18. ANDELA W H T T AND CASTLERANGER’S HOUSE EL M A

D SO W Y ST I A S R B K EET S D EN T EN 9 10 11 map

NOVEMBER 2019 | 101 London bus map

102 | LONDON PLANNER NOVEMBER 2019 | 103 London Underground map

LONDON PLANN THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRS 104 | LONDON PLANNER Your friend NER.COM in the city T VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS OCTOBER 2018 | 105 The Greatest London in numbers City London boasts the tallest isolated stone column in the world, LONDON HAS MORE THAN

MONUMENT which stands at 170

are spoken in MUSEUMS London – more than in any 202 AND OVER other country in the world FEET London is Europe’s most populated city and has 850 more billionaires per head than any other world city ART GALLERIES THERE ARE NEARLY MANY OF WHICH OFFER MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS FREE ADMISSION 70 WITHIN THE CAPITAL MAKING LONDON A CULINARY WORLD HOTSPOT

THE LONDON UNDERGROUND LONDON IS THE HAS THE OLDEST GREENEST 1908 1948 2012 UNDERGROUND RAILWAY CITY OF ITS SIZE London has hosted the Olympic IN THE WORLD. Games an impressive three times, IN THE WORLD. more than any other city THE METROPOLITAN LINE HYDE PARK N E D E I ALONE COVERS P N The Shard stands at 1,016 feet O tall and is the tallest building 1863 350 in Western Europe ACRES

Sources: Languages: london.gov.uk; Monument: BBC; Populated city: londoncouncils.gov.uk/huffington post.com; Restaurants: Visit London; Museums: london.gov.uk; Metropolitan IN THE MIDDLE Line: tfl.gov.uk; The Shard: the-shard. com; Olympics: BBC; Hyde Park: TORRE DE CRISTAL MADRID TORRE BANKIA MADRID MESSETURM FRANKFURT TOWER COMMERZBANK FRANKFURT THE SHARD LONDON OF THE CITY lonelyplanet.com ISTOCK © ICONS

106 | LONDON PLANNER VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS LONDON PLANNER Your friend .COM in the city

THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS FIRST VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS