Woman’s Weekly Travel orth America with a French accent, that’s Québec La Malbaie xxxx x – a province quite unlike other parts of Canada. The x xxxxxxx xxxx x x charlevoix flour – all part of Charlevoix’s country is officially bilingual but most of its French x xxxxx xxxxxxxx On the outskirts of Québec City, eco-museum network. speakers live here along the Saint Lawrence (or Saint- a two-coach light train leaves La Malbaie is the gateway to NLaurent) river, which connects the Great Lakes to the Atlantic. from a picturesque platform the spectacular National Park It all started with Québec City, founded by Frenchman Samuel Crème de la Crème beside Montmorency Falls of Hautes-Gorge-de-la-Rivière- de Champlain in 1806 as a trading post, but forts have existed Gillian Thornton explores the cities – 30 metres higher than Niagara Malbaie for hiking, biking or at the site since the 16th century. Flights from the UK land at – for the two-hour scenic trip to kayaking with attitude. The Montréal but it’s easy to combine the two contrasting cities by rail, and coastline of Canada’s French Baie Saint Paul in Charlevoix. gentle 90-minute river cruise then follow the river north into the countryside of Charlevoix. Disembark, and maybe stay over offers a close-up view of the heartland at Hotel La Ferme to explore this highest peaks east of the pretty small town, renowned for Rockies. Bathed in evening its artists and small galleries. sunshine after a downpour, A connecting service hugs they cast mirror-image the shoreline to La Malbaie – a reflections in the still water. popular riverside resort since the There were more glorious 19th century – or you can do as views from my balcony at the I did and pick up a hire car for the Auberge des Falaises in La freedom of the road. I enjoyed Malbaie, but you need to go Charlevoix Maritime Museum, a little further downriver to a memorial to the historic enjoy the area’s biggest tourist schooner industry, before taking attractions – whales. Cruises the free ferry to Ile aux Coudres leave from Baie Saint Catherine and the Hotel Cap aux Pierres. for the protected marine park The island is popular with where water rich in food from leisure cyclists who follow the the Saguenay Fjord attract 13 23km perimeter road for unbroken species of these giant mammals. river views. Sample speciality The real big boys eluded MontrEal buildings have to reflect some iced cider at Pedneault orchards, us this time, but with beluga, Montréal is the largest French- element of the more historic La Malbaie is the visit the island’s windmill minke and fin whales obligingly speaking metropolis after Paris, ones around them; for instance, gateway to a beautiful and watermill and refuel at breaking the surface around but most residents are bilingual the arched windows in the Tour National Park Boulangerie Bouchard with our boat, everyone headed so don’t be surprised to be KPMG skyscraper behind Christ goodies made from the mill’s home happy. greeted with a friendly ‘Bonjour- Church Cathedral. Step inside Hi!’ Stay in the Old Town for easy public institutions like City Hall access to all the main attractions, and Bank of Montréal to admire Great Useful websites You’ll see more Château shops and restaurants. The grand interiors, and browse the by bike Quebec City bedrooms, but For tourisme-Montréal.org Place d’Armes Hotel proved a design boutiques in historic From Montréal, I travelled north Frontenac I opted for the Québecregion.com great base, with spacious rooms Bonsecours Market. along the Saint-Laurent with keeps watch more intimate Tranquil charlevoixtourism.com and a panoramic rooftop bar. I A short metro ride from the ViaRail on the three-hour journey over the city surroundings of the aircanada.com took a free guided tour of Notre centre, the 1976 Olympic Park is to Québec City, which was added Manoir d’Auteil, a travellers Dame Cathedral, opposite, for a must-see. Take the lift up the to UNESCO’s World Heritage boutique hotel in Book a wellbeing course the – full impact of its stunning viewing tower for spectacular list in 1985. The city is dominated the heart of the or just chill out at the blue and gold interior. panoramas, then head into the by Château Frontenac, part Old Town. Monastère des Augustines, Few buildings remain today Biodome to play ‘spot the sloth’ of a network of luxury hotels The only fortified an innovative new Québec Woman’s Weekly from the city’s early years, so in the tropical forest and watch for Canada’s first rail travellers city north of City hotel that continues don’t miss Château de Ramezay, puffins showing off underwater. and now boasting over 600 Mexico, Vieux Travel offer the work of the Augustine Canada’s Maple Leaf Trail home of the first French governor The tranquil Botanic Gardens Québec is a maze Sisters by caring for body and 8-days from £1,049 and now a museum. Place opposite are among North of European-style soul. Visit monastere.ca Departing October 2015 – Jacques Cartier nearby is America’s finest. And when streets. The Petit Champlain October 2016. Take the ‘Maple Yoga is Leaf Trail’ from Ontario’s named after the Frenchman who you want to party, head for Great area beside the river is the welcoming waterfront capital, discovered Canada and it thrums the Quartier des Spectacles oldest district, but British one of the Toronto, heading north to For programmes historic Ottawa, then east into with artists’ stalls and cafes. – Montréal’s entertainment commander General Wolfe French Canada to Montréal, And I loved the way ultra-modern district – day or night. Culture took the city in 1759 at a battle offered and finally to Québec. All high above the river on the this – plus a visit to the awe- inspiring Niagara Fals – make vultures Heights of Abraham, now this a tour you’ll never forget. Food Book on to a themed cycling transformed into Battlefields To book or request a Great tour of bike-friendly Park. Take a summer tour of the brochure, call 0330 160 7857 quoting code IWW, or visit For lovers Montréal with Ça Roule British citadel to top up your newmarket.travel/IWW15016 Visit local food producers, Montréal to discover history, enjoy the panorama and their restaurant partners, architecture, art and from Dufferin Terrace, and take along Charlevoix’s Route des gastronomy from the heart a free tour of Parliament and Saveurs, to try anything from of the Old Town. Visit its beautiful gardens – you can cheese to chocolate, emu steaks caroulemontreal.com A European even eat their veg in the feel in Petit oire Words: Claire Gervat. Photos: Alamy, Getty, iStockphoto.com, Superstock iStockphoto.com, Getty, Alamy, Photos: Gervat. Claire Words: to tomato wine! See routedesaveurs.com The street Parlementaire restaurant! for eats Champlain NEXTCruise WEEK The L51