The Creole Cookery of New Orleans

This is a reproduction of a book from the McGill University Library collection. Title: Recipes of all nations Edition: New ed. Author: Forbes, Marcelle Azra Publisher, year: London : H. Joseph, 1946 The pages were digitized as they were. The original book may have contained pages with poor print. Marks, notations, and other marginalia present in the original volume may also appear. For wider or heavier books, a slight curvature to the text on the inside of pages may be noticeable. ISBN of reproduction: 978-1-77096-095-4 This reproduction is intended for personal use only, and may not be reproduced, re-published, or re-distributed commercially. For further information on permission regarding the use of this reproduction contact McGill University Library. McGill University Library www.mcgill.ca/library RECIPES OF ALL NATIONS RECIPES OF ALL NATIONS Compiled & Edited by COUNTESS MORPHY >0 ^ LONDON HERBERT JOSEPH LIMITED ©W^^^î^^r^^^^^^^^^^^^^-^^ First published - - - I935 New edition - November 1946 Printed in Great Britain by Lowe and Brydone Printers Limited, London, N.W.io Qontents PAGE FRANCE 9 ITALY 99 SPAIN i6o PORTUGAL . 217 AUSTRIA 229 HUNGARY . 284 GERMA>JY . 300 RUSSIA 350 POLAND 402 NORWAY 416 SWEDEN 427 DENMARK . 439 BELGIUM 445 HOLLAISID . 462 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 482 THE CREOLE COOKERY OF NEW ORLEAN 528 INDIA .... 553 CHINA 578 JAPAN .... 594 DISHES FROM OTHER LANDS . 606 ^reface^ THE COOKERY OF THE NATIONS THE history of cookery is part of the history of civilization. At some remote period—^too remote to be gauged— primitive man discovered that the flesh of his captures became less tough and more palatable when subjected to the action of fire, and from this the art of cookery evolved slowly and laboriously, like all the arts, and progressed from a simple to an elaborate process. Racial and climatic factors are responsible for the wide divergencies in national cookery and food, and the study o£» comparative cookery shows the unbridgable gulf which ex ists between peoples. North, South, East, West—learn what they eat, and you will realize why they have always clashed. In Europe itself, the abyss between the palates of one nation and another explains the enmity and hostility which exist between hiiman beings whose conception of feeding is completely antithetic. As to the food and cookery of the older Eastern civilizations—India, China and Japan—they are too remote to be fully understandable. Their cookery has developed on completely different lines from ours, and nature has provided them with ingredients which to Western eyes appear as strange and fantastic as do some of their works of art to the uninitiated. Their attitude to wards foods is perhaps the most removed from, and the least reminiscent of, that of our animal ancestry, and thousands of years of patient and reverent study in all matters appertaining to food and its preparation have con structed a science and an art which lie beyond our compre hension. The difference in the tastes of the various nations can be seen at a glance by looking at the indexes of the various sections of this book, and noting the ingredients which are 6 RECIPES OF ALL NATIONS more frequently used in each country—Spain, for instance, has a particular liking for tomatoes; Russia for sour cream; Italy for pastes of every description, such as the various kinds of macaroni, noodles, gnocchi ; India for rice; China and Japan for their Soya bean sauce, and so on. The standard of cookery is undoubtedly higher in the Southern countries of Europe than in the Northern, where good but plain and substantial food is preferred. We get none of the intricacies and subtleties and delicacies in the preparation of food which entitle cookery to be added to the list of fine arts. It was Italy who first taught France the art of cookery during the Renaissance, and the French chef proved such an apt pupil that a century or so later he had wrested from the Italians the leadership in gastronomy, anJ still retains it. French cookery—often poor imitations of it— has conquered the world. Cookery books of practically every country in Europe are swamped by French recipes, and everywhere hotels and restaurants affect "French cuisine," although French cooking has had little or no influence on the food of the peasant and working classes, which remains strongly national. My motive in writing this book is to' help the modern housewife who takes an intelligent interest in cooking to have excellent, varied and inexpensive food in her own home. English food is apt to be monotonous, and the average woman is frightened of foreign cookery. Her experience of it is often limited, and she is apt to think it "messy" or "over-rich," or beyond her capabihties as a cook. Little does she reahze how many interesting, exciting and delicious foreign dishes are available to her, and how, with very little extra trouble, she may relieve the monotony of the food to which she and her family have become accustomed. I want to show the English housewife how "Every- woman" cooks and eats in other countries—not the highly skilled professional cook, but just the ordinary middle-class woman with hmited means. I want to show her how, in 7 PREFACE quite simple ways, she can vary her menu and ring constant changes in the daily round of meals. I have written my recipes as clearly and explicitly as possible, so that they may be useful to the inexperienced. I hope my book will dispel this bugbear about "foreign cookery" and prove that it is often plainer and simpler, less "rich" in many cases, and far more economical than English cooking. In many foreign countries women for a very long time have had to face economic problems which English women have been called upon to face only in comparatively recent times. In conclusion, I have compiled this book of recipes for the benefit of the modem housewife with the hope that I may be of some assistance to her, and that when the trouble some question of "What shall we eat to-day?" arises she may turn to the pages of this book and read how her sisters in foreign lands solve the eternal and everlasting problem of daily food. THE AUTHOR FRANCE ^ SOUPS PAGE Lc Pot-au-Feu (fhe stock-pat) 17 Bouillabaisse {Provinfal fish soup) . 19 GiithniQ {Cabbage and salt pork soup) 20 Brunoisc (Vegetable soup) .... 21 Potage aux Herbes (Sorrel, lettuce and chervil soup) 21 La Soupe aux Congres {Eel soup) 22 La Soupe aux Marrons (Chestnut soup) 23 La Soupe aux Monies (Mussel soup) 23 Potage Creme de Potiron (Pumpkin soup) 24 La Soupe des Noces ou Tourin aux Tomatc^ (Tomato soup) 24 ^ FISH Les Fillets de Sole au Cidre (Fillets of sole with cider) 25 La Sole Fecampoise (Sole Vicampoise) 26 La^Brandade de Morue (Brandade of dry salt cod) 27 L'AioH Garni (Fish with garlic sauce) 27 Anguille en Matelote (Eel en matelote) 28 Truite au Bleu (Marinated trout) 29 Macquereaux aux Groseilles (Mackerel with gooseberry Sauce)3 0 Langouste i I'Armoricaine (Crayfish a VArmoricaine) 30 Les Moules Mariniihres (Mussels marinieres) 31 Les Merlans Bercy (Whiting bercy) .... 32 RECIPES OF ALL NATIONS E N T R Ir. E S PAGE Le Godiveau {Force-meat halls) . • • • ^ • 32 Les Pieds de Veau a la Sainte-Menehould (Calves\feet d la Sainte-Menehould) ...•••• 33 Les Cepes a la Bordelaise (Cepes a la Bordelaise) . 34 Les Rillons de Tour (P(?//^^/)or/^) 34 Artichauts Farcis a la Barigoule (Sfujfed artichokes a la barigoule) 35 Les Aubergines Farcies (Stuffed aubergines) ... 36 Rognons Sautes au Vin Blanc (Kidneys sautis with white wine) ....••••• 3" Rissoles a la Parisienne 37 Saucisses au Vin Blanc (Sausages with white wine) . '37 Pommes de Terre au Lard {Potatoes with salt pork) . 38 MEAT Le Bouilli (Boiled beef) 39 Tournedos a la Bearnaise (Small fillets of beef a la Bearnaise) 40 Le Bceuf en Daube (B^(?/"j-/(?2z^) . .41 Escalopes de Veau a TOseille (Escalopes of veal with sorrel) 41 L2, Bhnquettc dc Yezu (White Veal Stew) ... 42 Cotelettes de Veau en Papillotes (Veal cutlets in paper cases) 43 Le Navarin ou Ragout de Mouton (Mutton stew) . 44 Gigot d'Agneau a TAil (Roast leg of lamb with garlic) . 46 Fromage de Cochon (Hogshead cheese) . .46 Cotes de Pore a la Charcutiere (Pork chops charcutiere) . 48 FRANCE POULTRY PAGE La Fricassee de Poulet (Chicken fricassie) 48 Poule au Riz (Chicken with rice) 49 Le Poulet Marengo (Chicken Marengo) 50 Le Poulet Farci en Cocotte (Stuffed chicken en cocotte) 51 Lz DindQ'Tmff6e(TruJfied turkey) . 51 Confits d'Oie (Preservedgoose) 52 Dodine de Canard (Stewed duck) 53 Canard aux Navets (Duck with turnips) . 54 Pigeons a la Crapaudine (Pigeons crapaudine) 55 Pintade Rotie {ôast guinea-fowl) 55 ^ GAME Le Faisan en Cocotte {Pheasant en cocotte). 55 Becasses Flambees (Snipe with brandy) 56 Les Cailles aux Laitues (Quails with lettuce) 56 Salmis de Canard Sauvage (Salmis of wild duck) 57 Perdrix aux Choux {Partridges with cabbage) 58 Rable de LieVre a la Creme {Idare with cream) 59 Terrine de Lievre {Potted hare) 59 La Gibelotte (Rabbit stew) . 60 Lapin en Blanquette (Blanquette of rabbit) 61 Gelinotte a la Creme (Haêl hen with cream) 61 11 RECIPES OF ALL NATIONS VEGETABLES PAGE Les Pommes de Terre Pont Nevif (Friedpotatoes Pont Neuf) 62 Pommes de Terre a la Lyonnaise (Potatoes sautis a la lyonnaise) ....•• 64 Purê de Pommes de Terre {Potato purk) 64 Petits Pois a la Franâise {Peas a lafrancaise) 65 Puree d'Oseille (Puree of sorrel) 65 Endives Braisees (Braised chicory) .

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