Chateauneuf-du-Pape Report The 2009 Vintage

web: jjbuckley.com phone: 888.85.wines (888.859.4637) email: [email protected] twitter: @jjbuckleywines

7305 edgewater drive, suite d | oakland, ca 94621 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top Wine Picks 3 Introduction 4 History 5 Land, Soil & Weather 6-7 The Grapes 8 Styles & Winemaking 9 Tradition 10 The Market 11 Parker 12 Aging 13 Aging Guide 14 Vintage Guide 15-16 Estate Profiles 17-32 2009 Tasting Notes 33-45 Photographs 46-47 About This Report 48

2 TOP CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE PICKS The 10 Favorite Wines of the Visit

JJ Buckley‘s Top Picks for 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 2009 Bastide Saint Dominique ―Les Hesperides‖ 2009 Clos St Jean ―Deus Ex Machina‖ 2009 Domaine de la Solitude (Best Value) 2009 Oliver Hillaire ―Les Petits Pieds d‘Armand‖ 2009 Saint Prefert ―Collection Charles Giraud‖

Favorites from other vintages 1990 Chateau Beaucastel 2007 Domaine de la Solitude ―La Reserve Secrete‖ 2007 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 2008 Domaine la Barroche ―Signature‖ 2008 Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

3 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE As fun to visit as it is to say

There has been a close relationship be- Perhaps consumers and members of the Sometimes it takes a shot in the arm to tween Chateauneuf du Pape and Ameri- wine industry are so comfortable with realize that magical quality of a wine can wine consumers for decades and it idea of Chateauneuf du Pape that we region, and our booster was a five day has existed for many reasons. For in- forget about the reality of it. Consumers immersion in the wines of the region. stance, many of the first wine guides know that the wines of the greater Cotes Traveling the winding roads through published after the repeal of Prohibition du Rhone region are incredible values, plots of small, gnarled vines, we tasted helped to introduce these wines to a and we in the trade are guilty of featur- hundreds of wines and engaged in con- thirsty country. Others trace the popu- ing Gigondas and Vacqueyras as ―poor versations with winemakers across ta- larity of the region‘s wines to the years man's Chateauneuf.‖ We know of Cha- bles and in dark cellars. It was pure just after World War II, as soldiers re- teauneuf‘s rock-laden soils and old cas- seduction, and now we‘re hooked. turned to America with a newly devel- tles on hills, yet it does not reside on the Again. In this report, we hope you find oped taste for the wines they had dis- list of top destinations for wine tourism. the region—its history, its people and, covered near the battlefields. My own And I am just as guilty as anyone. With ultimately, its wines—as charming as theory is that Americans, not comforta- 25 years in the business and countless we did. ble with French pronunciation, enjoyed trips to France, I have only been there how easily the words ‗Chateauneuf du twice! Pape‘ rolled off the tongue. To this day, I can remember seeing phonetic spell- ings of those very words when I went with my parents to liquor stores or read the wine list at a posh restaurant.

Yet even though the wines of the region have obtained an adequate level of awareness, they have never garnered the reputation held by their neighbors in Bordeaux or Burgundy.

Robert Parker lamented this lack of recognition years ago and made this remark in October 1995: The JJB team embarking on their Rhone journey

“I have always wondered why Châteauneuf du Papes are not immensely popular… Since Châteauneuf du Pape tends to be a wine for hedonists (real wine drinkers) rather than the wine intelligentsia (who prefer writing and talking about wine to actually consuming it), the region has received appallingly little press coverage. But if you are drinking wine for pure hedonism, few wines deliver the pleasure and completeness of a top-notch Châteauneuf du Pape.”

4 HISTORY The papacy and the precedents

With increased popularity came a few interesting problems. Following World War I, area growers realized fraud was rapidly tarnishing the reputation of Chateauneuf. During this time, the bulk of the region's wines were being pur- chased by negociants and sold off to Burgundian winemakers as vin de medicin in order to add body and color to their wines. At the same time, estates Old foudre at Chateau Fortia Ruins of a papal castle such as Fortia and La Nerthe decided to Grapes have been grown in Cha- estate-bottle their wines and started to Finally, after a few false starts, Pierre Le teauneuf du Pape for centuries, even command high prices. With the in- Roy, owner of Chateau Fortia, formed a before the village became home to the creased demand for the region‘s wines committee of local vignerons to set up succession of popes that later gave the at both the high and low ends of the rules and regulations to govern the wine its name. While certainly the drink market, there was lots of incentive to winemaking and viticultural practices of choice within the region, outside of produce poor quality wines or source in the region. Wines which met all the Chateauneuf, the popularity of their grapes from outside of Chateauneuf. necessary requirements earned the right wines ebbed and flowed according to to be called Chateauneuf du Pape. the whims of the market and at the mer- Many of the regulations agreed upon in cy of numerous political obstacles. It the 1930s remain in effect today, and in wasn‘t until a new wave of export mar- conjunction with the French govern- kets developed in the late 19th century ment, possess the force of law. These that Chateauneuf began to enjoy some later became the foundation of the Ap- international renown. Around this time, pellation d'Controllee codes that govern the village of Chateauneuf Calcernier, winemaking and grape growing

the regional winemaking center, was throughout France today. renamed Chateauneuf-du-Pape to take advantage of the area's historical past.

The AOC regulations for Chateauneuf du Pape Wines —Wines must be made from 18 approved varieties (revised from 13 in 1998). —All wine must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. —No chapitalization. —Vines must be pruned according to certain procedures.

—Wines can only be irrigated during drought conditions. —The production of rose wines is not allowed.

—All harvesting must be manual.

5 LAND, SOIL, & WEATHER Between a rock and a hard place

The demarcated growing area for Cha- While the stones give Chateauneuf du Realizing the differences in the soils of teauneuf du Pape is quite limited in Pape its identifying surface character, Chateauneuf, some subtle, others strik- size, as it is restricted by legal regula- the underlying soil types vary consider- ing, will become increasingly important tions. Located a quick 20 minute drive ably, even within individual plots. Cer- as wineries expand the practice of re- from the historic town of Avignon, the tain terroirs express themselves clearly, leasing wines from single sites, often compact region measures 50 square while others are only understood by the referred to as lieu-dits. Some 134 differ- miles, with 8,000 acres of vineyards growers and winemakers who work ent small plots of varying size and soil planted within the certified area. them. Most subsoils are a varying com- composition have been organized with bination of clay, limestone and sand defined boundaries developed over the centuries. The plots within each lieu-dit If you remember nothing about a visit to with rounded river stones or sharp- are named as well and can be planted to the region, you will certainly never for- edged calcareous rocks lying above. In different varietals on the site‘s array of get a vista of vineyards littered with tasting many of the wines for this re- soils. As in Burgundy, vines within each galets roulés. The smooth, rounded port, it became clear that a soft, yet plot may be owned by a number of fam- stones found in northern areas of Cha- round palate profile that emphasized a ilies and wineries. Most of the smaller teauneuf du Pape are world renowned pure fruit expression came from soils lieu-dits are closer to town and have a and some of the most photographed with very high proportion of sand. Dis- legacy going back centuries, while larg- terrains of any winegrowing region. tinct structural notes with more textural er plots that fan out along the border Many vignerons call these stones tannins in the finish were more appar- were organized later. ―pebbles‖ but they are anything but that ent in wines that came with higher pro- and are frequently the size of a fist. Pol- portions of galets. ished from centuries of erosion by glaci- ers, water and wind, the galets are prized for their heat retention, provid- ing nearby vines extra oomph for ripen- ing.

In fact, it seems surprising that no one has made a bumper sticker, yet, that says ‘Chateauneuf du Pape Rocks!’

6 LAND, SOIL, & WEATHER The plot thickens...

Currently, there is no ranking of vine- has also been bolstered by noteworthy A complete understanding about Cha- yard sites or crus as in Burgundy or Al- wines made by Jerome Quiot of Do- teauneuf du Pape would not be possible sace, and the members of the Cha- maine Lazaret and Henri Bonneau, without a quick comment about the teauneuf AOC are not likely to approve whose early-picked vineyard sits upon a weather. It is generally acknowledged such as measure. But as in any region, high plateau, full of large stones and that the temperatures in Chateauneuf certain plots are better than others. varied sub-soils, such as the clay that is are relatively warm which allows the perfect for retaining water in warm most important varietals to get ripe. The As more wineries choose to showcase years. claim to fame for the southern Rhone is individual lieu-dits, and with the recent the unique wind pattern called le mistral, increase in detailed wine writing and Meanwhile the sandy soils of the lieu- powerful gusts that affect the region criticism, certain plots have come to the dits Rayas and Pignan, have had a pro- year round and usually last for periods fore while others are on the rise to great- found impact on the style of Chateau of two to three days but there have been er recognition and prominence. The ―Le Rayas‘ 100% grenache releases. The numerous times where longer durations Crau‖ site in the southeastern section of popularity of Rayas‘ wines has lead to have been recorded. These strong winds the AOC is probably the most famous, increased interest in nearby vineyards frequently follow rain storms and allow largely due to the commercial success of of similar soil type. vineyards to dry quickly, alleviating Vieux Telegraphe. Le Crau‘s reputation disease pressure. With gusts of up to 70 miles per hour, the areas around Cha- teauneuf are among the windiest in all of France.

We almost lost Chuck there for a minute!

7 THE GRAPES There’s a new king in town.

While recent wine articles have made an Today, grenache comprises about 75% of attempt at upgrading the image of gre- the grapes planted in Chateauneuf. Sy- nache, it still plays second fiddle to sy- rah and mourvedre plantings have dou- rah. Yet all it takes to change that per- bled over the last twenty years, largely ception is a trip to the southern Rhone as a result of changing tastes and the and an immersion in the wines of Cha- increasing fashion of reserve bottlings. teauneuf. Grenache does not simply The latter two grapes provide substance play a small part in the blends here—it and structure to the finish of the wine. dominates. A heat-loving variety, grena- Their thicker skins also contribute darker che provides the midpalate fruit gener- pigmentation to the finished wine. There osity and richness we love about Cha- are a few wineries currently releasing teauneuf du Pape, while making for a 100% syrah or mourvedre cuvées and more drinkable and approachable wine they are often aged in 100% new oak. It‘s interesting to observe that syrah is in its youth. These new wines are adding another often the first grape to come to mind wrinkle to the many styles of Cha- when thinking about the wines of the Depending on where you get your in- teauneuf currently under production. Rhone. Northern Rhone‘s Hermitage formation, there are between 13-22 dif- region, where syrah is king, has a repu- ferent varieties, both red and white, that Cinsault is the next most prevalent red tation that goes back centuries for pro- are now permissible by the regulations grape grown in Chateauneuf du Pape ducing some of the best wines in France. governing Chateauneuf production. The although it is grown in very small More recently, syrah has been associat- difference can be attributed to how the amounts compared to the three main ed with California‘s popular ―Rhone grapes are counted, in some cases a va- varieties. The grape accounts for less Ranger‖ movement, which has put it on rietal may have up to three or four rec- than 3% of the wine production in the the radar of domestic wine lovers. Cer- ognized subvarieties or clones. There is region but has its champions, including tainly these factors have contributed to no mandate regarding the proportion of Julien Barrot at Domaine Barroche. There the perception that syrah is the most each variety in the finished wine or are a number of other red varietals that important of the approved Chateauneuf even that more than one grape must be are produced in such small amounts as varieties. utilized. Accordingly, blends have var- to make a negligible impact on an indi- ied over time as fashion and market vidual winery‘s blend or on the overall Yet it‘s not syrah but ―lowly‖ grenache demands have changed. As mentioned viticulture of the region. Each of these that forms the backbone of the wines of earlier, when much of the area‘s produc- grapes (counoise, muscardin, vaccarese, Chateauneuf du Pape, a grape that odd- tion was being bulked off to wineries in picpoul noir and terret noir) are pro- ly has not received the attention nor the Burgundy to help boost the intensity of duced in amounts that are less than .5% acclaim it deserves. Frequently thought pinot noir, there was little need for of the totals for the AOC. of as a workhorse variety that is grown mourvedre or syrah, so grenache, in large quantities for lower-priced eve- whose texture more closely resembles As an aside, the white varieties (clairette, ryday wines, easy-to-grow grenache pinot noir, made up approximately 85- grenache blanc, bourboulenc, roussanne, often populates less prestigious grow- 90% of the plantings at that time. picpoul and picardin) comprise about 7- ing areas, whereas ―noble‖ syrah has 8% of all the grapes grown in the Cha- solidified its image by virtue of being teauneuf region. better suited to cooler, more refined environs.

8 STYLES & WINEMAKING To destem or not to destem

While grenache is primarily known for are more rustic, dominated by pro- Oak is another factor that contributes to its juicy, fruity qualities and syrah and nounced sour cherry. And instead of the final flavor profile. Grenache is very mourvedre are both appreciated for thick, viscous textures, the palate feel is sensitive to oak treatment. Large fermen- their structural attributes, some consid- more ethereal, allowing for subtle un- tation and aging vessels such as foudres, erably different approaches to wine- dertones of dusty spice and earth. while acting to reduce the richness and making are another important factor textural components of the finished that accounts for the diversity of wines Fermenting with whole bunches can be wine, allow more delicate and subtle produced in Chateauneuf. In addition to a tricky enterprise, however, because nuances of cherry and strawberry to soils and grape selection, the decisions unripe stems may add significant tannin shine through unencumbered. On the of winemakers can have as much of an and/or green flavor components to the other hand, smaller barriques or tonneaux impact on the final product. finished wine. Increasingly, Cha- concentrate the grape's natural fruit fla- teauneuf winemakers are choosing to vors, creating dark wines with voluptu- These choices often begin at the crush destem prior to crushing. By using just ous, mouthfilling textures that rank high pad. Winemakers first face the choice of the berries, the flavors are juicier and on the scale of hedonism. There's no fermenting the grapes with bunch stems richer in texture while tannins are either denying the seductive appeal of this or without them. Past winemaking tra- more subtle or reduced in quantity. style, though it definitely flies in the face ditions have been to leave the grapes on Destemming also accentuates the prima- of old-school, traditional producers like the stems, and many of the wines made ry fruit flavors as opposed to the more Mont-Redon and Fortia. Syrah and this way, as in the case of Chateau elusive ―savory‖ components provided mourvedre, however, seem to shine in Rayas, often display more translucent by whole bunch fermentation. smaller oak containers and many of the colors of pale magenta approaching new reserve-style cuvées being made brick or orange at the rim. The flavors today find these grapes being aged in 100% new French oak.

Finally, blending choices are up to the discretion of the winemaker. Some opt to make decisions closer to harvest, allow- ing the varieties to marry as the wine ages. Others wait as long as possible and do their blending sessions just prior to bottling. The thought here is that the lots which don‘t fulfill their potential can be discarded, allowing the winemaker the opportunity to fashion the final blend with the best components possible.

Chuck Hayward (l) and Shaun Bishop (r) of JJ Buckley meet with Pierre Pastre, manager & head winemaker at Chateau Fortia

9 TRADITION A noticeable lack of controversy

As often happens in a region with a rich recent report on the 2006 vintage in is permitted) in order for a wine to be in history of winemaking, long standing Montalcino explored these concerns and accordance with DOCG requirements. traditions exert a powerful influence on found that in Italy, the debate over contemporary practices. Procedures are which style is the ―true‖ Brunello has The AOC regulations of Chateauneuf frequently handed down from genera- had a polarizing effect on the subject, du Pape, while still prescriptive when it tion to generation and while incremen- frequently marked by rancor, and out- comes to regulations on growing tal changes occur over time, the core right vitriol in some cases. grapes, allow proprietors much more traditions often remain. The most im- freedom in selecting varietals, using portant question faced in areas like the Regarding the wines of Chateauneuf, different types of wood and deciding Rhone is whether or not innovation and there is noticeably less tension and ar- how long to age their wines. In fact, creativity in winemaking are hindered gumentativeness about this, both in the many wineries make both traditional by adherence to traditional practices. press and amongst the region‘s wine- and modern styles, pleasing both seg- makers. This is in part because the laws ments of the market. Perhaps there is In the case of the wines of Chateauneuf, affecting Chateauneuf are much less something to be learned here! the debate about the influence of mod- restrictive than those of the Consorzio di ern winemaking techniques has not Montalcino, which dictate such diverse been nearly as toxic as it has with wines practices as yields, oak aging, and varie- like Brunello di Montalcino. JJ Buckley's tal composition (only sangiovese grosso

Vieux Telegraphe’s crowded cellar: where old and new collide

10 MARKET The numbers game

The popularity of Chateauneuf du Pape Chateauneuf, meanwhile, produces a Examining these numbers, it's quite in America perseveres thanks to the scant 13.7 million bottles in total. Total amazing that prices and availability for strong foundation of sales and goodwill acreage for these four areas is similar as wines from Chateauneuf are so reasona- built up over most of the past century, well: Bordeaux with about 120,000 ble compared to their peers. This rela- but it is important to remember that acres, Burgundy's 62,000, Napa's 43,000 tive value is one reason that the region's these wines are also a player on the and only 8000 acres devoted to Cha- wines have remained so popular. Given world stage. teauneuf du Pape. And despite many that there is little more wine that can be technical advances over the past thirty- made from the delimited region, any Although Chateauneuf du Pape produc- odd years, the amount of wine pro- surge in global demand is sure to create es more wine than any other region in duced in the appellation in even the upward pressure on prices and availa- the southern Rhone, and more than the highest volume years has held steady bility in the medium to long term. So entirety of the Northern Rhone, the between 102-110 thousand hectoliters. enjoy the good times while the wines amount of wine produced actually pales are still our ―little secret.‖ in comparison to other regions globally. Famous areas like Bordeaux, Burgundy and Napa Valley produce 700, 180 and 110 million bottles per year respectively.

Chateauneuf du Pape: nowhere near a billion bottles served (On the wall at AOC wine bar in Villenueve-les-Avignon)

11 PARKER He who let the cat out of the bag

The initial impact of Parker's focus on Chateauneuf was to simply shine a light on a region that most consumers had experienced but did not quite under- stand. As evidenced by his quote in this report‘s introduction, he still found these wines to be obscure just 15 years ago! But to many in the region, what happened in Chateauneuf was less about sales and more about raising the standards of winemaking.

During an extensive visit at Domaine de la Solitude, winery owner Jean Lançon explained to me how Parker had influ- One man is almost singularly responsi- Other cuvées use different oak treat- enced area winemakers: by saying, ble for reminding the American market ments such as 100% new French bar- ―When Parker made a Top Ten list, I about the wines from Chateauneuf du riques instead of larger vessels of older said to myself, I want to be on that list. Pape. In our visits to wineries there, the oak. Still others focus on creating a So I worked hard to improve my wines. name that came up over and over again blend of differing proportions or mak- And it was not just me. Other winemak- was Robert Parker… and not as a focus ing a wine from only one variety. For ers did the same thing, they wanted to of criticism or the cause of high alcohol example, bottling 100% grenache, syrah be on that list. So the influence of Parker levels and powerful oak treatments. or mourvedre creates an altogether dif- was that everyone made better wines.‖ ferent wine compared to a traditional Rather, owners and winemakers over- Another result of Parker's attention to blend. whelmingly voiced appreciation about the wines of Chateauneuf has been a Parker‘s enthusiasm for their wines and These different methods allow wine- proliferation of reserve or special bot- noted that his continued focus had re- makers to experiment and at the same tlings. These cuvées can be based on a sulted in greater awareness and better time permit wine enthusiasts to witness number of factors, depending on the sales. In discussing his impact, it was innovative wines that offer new inter- winemaker's preferences. Most are quite interesting to hear the tone of the pretations of what the region is capable vieille vignes selections of older vines conversations which varied from matter of offering. Unfortunately, these bot- which provide more concentrated fruit -of-fact acknowledgment to passionate tlings are limited in production and on the palate and more length of flavor endorsement. high in price, but they do continue the on the finish. nascent trend of raising the standards in Chateauneuf.

12 AGING CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE Suddenly, old wines are new

JJ Buckley's visit to the Rhone allowed Older vintages of Chateauneuf du Pape bottle helped to pay bills and feed the us to taste a number of older vintages are quite rare. Its reputation as being family. In other cases, personal prefer- and discuss optimal drinking windows drinkable upon release combined with ence came into play. For example, Jean with winemakers. Tasting these older its history as a relatively affordable Lançon‘s father preferred his wines wines gave us the insight necessary to ―bistro‖ wine provided little motivation young and full of fruit so by the time come up with some guidelines which for collectors to cellar these wines, even Jean inherited Domaine de la Solitude, are summarized below. There‘s a defi- in so-called great vintages like 1978. there was nothing left in the cellar! A nite ―sweet spot‖ for these wines at few estates are now establishing pro- around ten years of age but it boils A number of estates that we visited did grams to re-release wines with some down to personal preference. You will not maintain wine libraries for either bottle age but our recommendation is to definitely be rewarded by putting some sales or educational purposes. For many stash some of your favorites in your wines in your cellar. winemakers in the past, selling wine collection when they are released in case was the key to their livelihood, as every you can‘t find any later.

Shaun Bishop (l) and Jean Lancon (r) in the cellar of Domaine de la Solitude

13 AN AGING GUIDE FOR CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE

1-3 years—Chateauneuf du Pape made its reputation on wines that have an immediate appeal. The primary fruit flavors that are so prevalent in grenache speak loudly at this stage in their life.

4-7 years—At this point, the wines start to coil up in a shell as they begin to lose the exuberant fruit that makes them so seductive in their youth. Structural notes coming from mourvedre and syrah can dominate the flavors. Drinking wines at this stage might require some decanting.

8-12 years—This is an intriguing period in the wine's life where the core of primary fruit aromas and flavors remain but secondary notes like earth and mushroom start to emerge. The balance between these two components will vary based upon the style of the vin- tage and the cépage of the cuvée. A peak drinking window, you get the best of both worlds with the wine weaving back and forth be- tween the two stages.

13-16 years—Here the youthful, fruit centered aromas and flavors are fading away and the secondary flavors and aromas of mush- rooms, leather, fresh earth come to dominate the wine. The darkly colored core of the wine is now translucent and any hints of cherry -laced fruit will remain in only the most powerful and concentrated of vintages.

17 years+—Wines from exceptional vintages like 1978 and 1990 have the ability to reach this plateau while retaining a modicum of primary fruit, others might have faded at this point. In the best examples, the wine may take on an extra dimension, with umami and soy leaving an exotic presence on the palate.

Diving into the past at Vieux Telegraphe

14 VINTAGES 1998-2010 in Chateauneuf du Pape

1998—One of the top vintages in recent times, these wines are approaching perfect maturity and are in peak drinking condition. The best wines have concentrated fruit components that are just beginning to broaden and where, properly cellared, have a ways to go before hitting their stride. Ranked up there with vintages like 1978 and 1990.

1999—It seems like every four years or so (2004, 2008), Chateauneuf du Pape makes early drinking, approachable wines that are not vins du garde but perfectly acceptable wines meant for drinking while benefitting from short term cellaring. They may not make ―old bones,‖ as the Brits like to say, but most examples are great for current drinking offering a sense of elegance over power and extract. Drink soon.

2000—This was a grand year of powerful wines full of fruit and tannin. Balanced and complex upon release, the wines are starting to emerge from their slumber and are now soft and approachable. The top wines might need a few more years to reveal their latent fruit but expect most examples to peak in the next 6-8 years.

2001—A sleeper vintage that fell in the shadow of the more opulent 2000s, the wines of 2001 are magnificently flavorsome and com- plex and are showing quite well at the moment. The aromas and flavors still maintain a core of youthful, primary fruit, but secondary characteristics are starting to reveal themselves. This vintage currently offers the best of both worlds and should show well for anoth- er 6-10 years.

2002—A year that will be remembered for its horrific weather conditions, marred by incredible amounts of rain that made harvest- ing any semblance of quality fruit impossible. Most estates declassified their wines or sold off their fruit to negociants.

2003—Following the disastrous weather experienced in the previous year, 2003 dealt another blow to the region. Instead of rain, ex- treme heat pummeled the vineyards. Weeks of temperatures above 100°F placed an incredible amount of heat stress on grapes and many vines clearly shut down. A special dispensation from the AOC suspended the regulation forbidding irrigation in the case of younger vines. Sites with clay subsoils benefitted thanks to their ability to retain water. The wines themselves are drinking well and are not as dried out or overly alcoholic as the weather might suggest.

The wines of Domaine de la Solitude

15 VINTAGES 1998-2010 in Chateauneuf du Pape, continued

2004—In the realm of years like 1999 and 2008, this vintage provided perfectly acceptable and plenty of good quality wines. They will not ascend to the heights of 2005, 2007 or 2009 but should not be ignored. Drink over the next 3-5 years.

2005—An excellent vintage that has been largely forgotten in the enthusiasm to secure the 2007s, many winemakers in Chateauneuf have a clear preference for the wines of this harvest and expect them to show much more complexity and nuance down the road. Al- ready packed in and closed down, it was interesting that we tasted very few 2005s in our recent visit.

2006—This vintage produced a more classically-styled wine that emphasizes structure over juicy, primary fruit qualities. Like the wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy in '06, these wines will never be as much about fruit generosity as about structure. Best to cellar this vintage at this point.

2007—A great year according to many wine writers, there is no denying that there is much to like about this vintage. Gobs of for- ward, ripe, almost sweet fruit give these wines lots of immediate appeal and their seductive qualities are acknowledged by many in Chateauneuf. But many winemakers worry about short-term aging with the fruit dropping off a bit too quickly.

2008—A somewhat reserved vintage and quite variable, 2008 offers a hodge-podge of quality with wines varying between mediocre and exceptional. The harvest was marked by intermittent rains so the producers who were lucky enough to harvest clean fruit made easy-to-drink, approachable wines that should be drunk over the next 2-5 years. Many special cuvées were not made in this vintage raising the quality of those estate‘s classic releases. Accordingly, there can be above-average wines available at affordable prices if one looks around.

2009—Although this vintage has had some detractors who declare the wines to be a bit less than classic, our tastings of the wines revealed the 2009s to be excellent in quality and cellar-worthy candidates. Full-bodied and concentrated, they do not have the over- ripe qualities of the 2007s yet still maintain rich fruit concentration that makes them immediately appealing. They all possess the stuffing to last 15-20 years and most winemakers think they will show better in the long run than the 2007s. This vintage could see some undervalued releases due to the lack of hype by the critics. Highly recommended.

2010—Right now, the wines are just starting to find themselves and the components of the final blends for this vintage are looking good with most vignerons expressing very positive feelings. Winemakers are excited about the clean, focused fruit flavors along with the vintage‘s telltale fresh acidity that promises excellent aging potential.

16 ESTATE PROFILES

While the main objective of JJ Buckley's trip to the Rhone Valley was to examine the 2009s from the northern Rhone appellations (a report on Cote Rotie, Hermitage, etc is forthcoming), we were unexpectedly struck by the beauty of Cha- teauneuf du Pape and the hospitality of its people. Whether meeting with winemakers or sales managers, the welcome was always warm and we felt instantly at home. That held true for legendary estates, as well as small properties where winemaking tasks were being handed down to the sons, and in some cases, the daughters of the proprietor. Our ques- tions were answered directly—no topic off limits—and our conversations were engaging and lively. The following are vignettes of a small portion of the wine estates in the region.

Chateau Beaucastel

Located on a flat plateau in the northeast corner of the appella- tion, each grape is planted separately and on soils most appro-

priate to the varietal. The large property extends beyond the defined boundaries of the Chateauneuf du Pape AOC and the fruit that is grown outside of the appellation is bottled under the Coudelet de Beaucastel label which is required to be designated as a Cotes du Rhone.

The ―Hommage a Jacques Perrin‖ represents the house's tete-de- cuvée. About 350-450 cases are made when conditions dictate and the mourvedre grape traditionally dominates the cuvée. A true vin de garde which demands cellaring, the introduction of

this cuvée in 1999 by Beaucastel, helped to popularize the ―reserve‖ bottling concept that is all the rage in Chateauneuf In the cellars of Chateau Beaucastel today.

The Perrin family has owned the property for a century with Many people find it difficult to separate Chateauneuf du Pape winemaking, instead of selling fruits to the negoce, an integral from the wines of Chateau Beaucastel, they are so inextricably part of the domaine for a century prior. The family is actively intertwined. In fact, the rise in popularity of the estate feeds off involved in every aspect of the estate and the commercial success the increased recognition of the region and vice versa. But in a of the estate's wines has allowed the family to start a thriving region of just over 300 wineries, Beaucastel stands apart for a negociant practice which utilizes grapes from other regions in number of unique reasons. the southern Rhone.

One of those distinctive qualities that separates Beaucastel from other wineries is that they are one of the few estates to utilize all 13 varietals allowed in Chateauneuf wine in their classic cuvée. Another is that in an area known for organic viticulture, they adopted such practices in the 1960s, long before it became hip. Finally, the estate is known for using a high percentage (up to 30%) of mourvedre in their classic cuvée.

17 ESTATE PROFILES Chateau de Beaucastel

2007 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc 2003 Coudoulet de Beaucastel 80% roussanne, 20% grenache blanc and bourboulenc. 35% of the 30% mourvedre, 30% grenache, 20% cinsault, and 20% syrah. cuvée was aged in new oak. Color is approaching yellow-gold. This cuvée easily brings to mind an old Burgundy and tasting Diverse, delicate aromas of honeysuckle and lemon blossom this wine easily shows why those winemakers saw the virtue in later gain more intense notes of pear and dried apricot. This is a blending Chateauneuf with their cuvées. Showing mature ma- fairly rich wine that has some fat on the midpalate while show- roon colors, some secondary flavors and aromas of dried fruit ing some interesting talc-like mineral components that add some and fresh mushroom are just starting to appear around a small texture to the flavorful finish. Flavors of ripe pears and bananas core of sweet cherry fruit. The seamless fruit texture on the mid- show a tropical aspect to this vintage's palate. The richness and palate bumps up against some soft tannins on the finish. Drink low acidity indicates that short-term drinking over the next few in the next 5-7 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward years is advisable. 91 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2009 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc Classic spicy and feral aromas of oregano, bay leaf, tarragon, 80% roussanne, 15% grenache blanc, 5% blend of picardin, clove and thyme are pure, pristine and offer up a constantly clairette and bourboulenc. Approaching yellow-gold in color, the changing bouquet. This is a medium bodied cuvée that is fo- forward aromas of tropical fruits bring Vieux Telegraphe's exam- cused on savory fruit flavors with a focused palate profile. The ple to mind. Exotic aromas and flavors of mango, banana, pine- fruit on the palate fades quickly with earthy and spicy tannins on apple and syrupy fruit cocktail dominate the palate, which is a compact and firm finish. Needs a few years to open up and round and fat with low acidity on the finish. A little more acidity show the soft fruit characteristics that lurk underneath. Tasted would make for a more lively wine, so drink this over the next 3- twice. 89 points—Chuck Hayward 5 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc “Roussanne—Vieille Vignes” 100% roussanne that is aged in a combination of new and one- year-old oak with no malolactic. This rare wine (about 400 cases each year) is comprised of 89-year-old vine roussanne. Just ap- proaching yellow-gold coloring, the aromas are of cool region tree fruits that avoid any tropical flavors or textures. Exotic pear, ripe lime and lemon with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg also show up on the focused palate profile. There is ample texture but it's more compact than fat, thanks to integrated acidity, which helps create a long fruit filled finish. Another 2-3 years is essen- tial if you want to see this wine open up a bit, but further cellar- ing will reap rewards, as I have had incredible 10-to-15-year-old bottles of this cuvée. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

18 ESTATE PROFILES Chateau Beaucastel

1990 Chateau de Beaucastel 2008 Chateau de Beaucastel This was clearly one of the most incredible wines that our staff, Due to both a poor crop as well as severe selection in the cellar, with some accumulated 60 years of tasting experience, had ever only 40% of the usual production made it into the classic cuvée. tasted. The color is a glowing and luminescent orange-tinged, Opaque at the core with a rose colored rim, the bouquet is com- rose-hued brick, clear with the barest indication of browning. prised of high-toned aromas of grilled meat, soy, game and spice The never-ending mélange of fresh earth, soy, fresh mushroom, with subtle fruit coming out much later with air. This year's re- Worcestershire sauce and dried cherry aromas are infectious and lease is a medium-bodied effort that shows a softer side of the exciting to witness. The palate shows pinpoint balance; it is soft estate. A hint of slightly sweet black cherry forms the core of the yet expansive, lightly concentrated and ethereal with a richly wine and continues on to a mellow finish that is delicate and textured backpalate, harmonious with the rest of the wine. Deli- plushly textured, ending in subtle, savory tannins. Drinkable cate flavors of dried cherry and peach, umami and subtle hints of now and over the next 6-8 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward beef linger in an endless finish that shows leather and sweet earth notes as well. It is a fascinating combination of primary, 2009 Chateau de Beaucastel secondary and tertiary components. No angles here. Rather, this is a seamless wine that reveals the benefits that can arrive from 30% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 10% syrah, 10% counoise, 10% aging a great wine, leaving one slackjawed and speechless for other varietals. Darkly colored red with a barely opaque core. descriptors, where words do no justice. Drink over the next 3-5 Subtle scents of fresh mushroom and spice can be coaxed out years or sooner for fresher fruit notes. 99 points—Chuck Hay- with time from the closed and reserved bouquet. The palate at ward this point is focused and compact favoring firmness over plush- ness. Hints of herbs and dried cherry, crisp and crunchy, are

noted on the elegantly presented palate. A bit tangy on the finish 2001 Chateau de Beaucastel thanks to the noticeable acidity, textural tannins complete the 30% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 10% syrah, 10% counoise, 10% experience. Needs a few years to unfurl, should be best in 12-15 other varietals. Just starting to get opaque at the core, the aromas years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward are still dominated by primary fruit characteristics that are un- traditional expressions from what is normally encountered in 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel “Hommage A Jacques Perrin” Chateauneuf. Spicy, herbal notes are infused into aromas of fraise, dried cherry and unripe blackberry, creating a more angu- 60% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah, and 10% counoise. lar bouquet. The palate is starting to get supple, expansive and This is a different ―Hommage‖ with an unusually higher per- more complex with milk chocolate flavors and textures. The tan- centage of grenache in the mix because of a poor mourvedre nins are finely textured components of a plush finish. Drink over harvest. Showing an intriguing combination of youth and age in the next 10-15 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward the nose, subtle scents of dark spices, dark earth and fresh meat later evolving and showing hints of anise and fennel. The flavors are intense and still primary with youthful purple fruits at the core of the palate. Softly textured, there is still some develop- ment to be had here with the supple finish supported by some firm, dry tannins. There are another 15 years ahead for this wine easily. 95 points—Chuck Hayward

19 ESTATE PROFILES

Chateau Fortia

Given the winery‘s historical links, it is no wonder that the

classically understated and delicate style of Chateauneuf should be found at Fortia. A modernist approach is not what is expected here. The colors are translucent and the flavors soft and approachable, reminding one of old Burgundies, which makes sense. There's a reason I have always called grenache ―pinot on steroids‖ and in this case, the wines of Fortia resem- bles just the pinot by itself.

However, Fortia is not a winery that lets tradition prevent it from experimenting with new ideas. As Baron Pierre observed, ―The AOC regulations allow us to play, we are not under any real obligations.‖ Rather than alter the traditional aging meth- Tools of the trade at Chateau Fortia ods in the cellar, Fortia has focused on changes in the cépage . The ―Cuvée du Baron,‖ introduced in 2001, reduces the amount of grenache in the blend while increasing the syrah Chateau Fortia occupies a special place in the firmament of Cha- component. The newer ―Reserve‖ cuvée contains 80% syrah, a teauneuf du Pape. The estate was owned by Baron Pierre Le Roy grape that has a long history of successful at the estate. who was responsible for fashioning the regulations that led to AOC status for the area, and his descendants manage the proper- ty today. Fortia was one of the first properties in Chateauneuf to estate bottle their wines, a practice to guarantee their authentici- ty at a time when fraud threatened the region's future.

The winery itself is a castle with an ancient cellar—dating back to the late 17th century—housing the old foudres utilized for ag- ing wine. Holding a number a black-painted foudres on one side across from which sit alcoves full of recently bottled vintages stacked á la Champagne, the cramped cellar is a blast from the past.

Pierre Pastre In the Tasting Room at Chateau Fortia

20 ESTATE PROFILES Chateau Fortia

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape A blend of 55% grenache, 30% syrah and 15% mourvedre, all aged in foudres. A very successful example of a classical and un- derstated Chateauneuf thanks to the successful vintage. Dark in color yet still clear, soft aromas of sour cherries dominate the bouquet. Those cherry scents reappear with a touch more con- centration on the palate. The sweet fruit expression is pure and almost textural while the feathery finish shows the barest of hint of tannin. Should show well over the next 6-8 years. 93 points— Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée du Baron” 50% syrah, 40% grenache and 10% mourvedre. The core of the wine is clear with the color a bright ruby-red. Here, the bright cherry aromas are more intense and concentrated than the classic cuvée with round, crisp textures. Noticeable structure and a firm finish make for a compact finish that could use a bit more length. Some drying tannins help to constrain the backpalate. Best to wait 4-5 years to let this open up. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve” 80% syrah and 20% Grenache. One of the few syrah–dominated cuvées made in the appellation, this modern Chateauneuf is darkly colored. The concentrated fruit is packed into a tight frame that is coiled and focused showing wound up flavors of black cherry and cassis. Some fresh acidity helps to keep the pro- file compact. Great length can be found in the finish along with firm tannins. The powerful fruit, along with reined-in structure, bodes well for medium-term cellaring, so put this away for 4-6 years or decant vigorously for near term drinking. 93 points— Chuck Hayward

21 ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine de la Charbonniere

One of the more intriguing aspects to Charbonniere's portfolio is the range of three special cuvées that have been produced since the mid-1990s. The Marets own four different parcels of vines in the lieu-dits of Le Crau, Brusquieres, Mourre des Pedrix, as well as Charbonniere, the plot which gives the winery its name. Each of the vineyards has markedly varied soils along with significant differences in exposures and the temperature variations among them. Although there is an estate blend that is composed of all sites, the best lots from each site are bottled separately and afford Chateauneuf enthusiasts an intimate look at four different sites.

In making their wines, the Marets have chosen to destem 100% of the incoming fruit and age their cuvées in a combination of foudres and small oak barrels. The cépage of the blends all have significant percentages of grenache and are bottled unfiltered. Our visit included a tasting of older vintages which highlighted a number of wines that truly reflected the style of each year. Sty- listically, the wines are medium- to full-bodied showing great Veronique & Caroline Maret of Domaine de la Charbonniere weight, a slight rustic, earthy note throughout and great aging potential. Definitely a rising star in Chateauneuf! When visiting Domaine de la Charbonniere, we found ourselves in the midst of a winery being handed down from one genera- tion to the next. In this case, we had the chance to catch up with Caroline and Veronique Maret who have been slowly taking over the reins of the winery from their father, Michel, who nev- ertheless remains actively involved in operations. In addition to the fresh energy coming from the daughters‘ work in the winery, the cellar was recently expanded with new fermentation equip- ment as well.

The origins of the estate date back to 1912 when Eugene Maret purchased property just outside the town of Chateauneuf as a gift to his wife. Over the years, the property was expanded, and wines were first made under the current label in 1978. While wines from the Chateauneuf AOC remain the focus of the estate, the family also makes some Vacqueyras rouge.

22 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine de la Charbonniere

2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes” 40% roussanne, 40%, grenache blanc, 20% clairette. The wine Opaque at the core, hints of maturity are starting to appear at the sees 20% new oak and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. rim. The bouquet is dominated by scents of earth and forest floor Clear and pale color. Forward aromas of banana, honey and and the fruit aromas are currently in the background. Bright and mead dominate the bouquet. The palate, however, is more struc- tangy, the vibrant fruit on the midpalate fades a bit quickly as tured than fruity with a firm finish that is dry and flavors of un- firm tannins kick in at the finish. Currently a bit disjointed, as the ripe pears and lemon mingling with nutmeg and spice. 90 mature notes on the nose clash with the more youthful fruit fla- points—Chuck Hayward vors on the palate, these components should mesh in a few years to create a more harmonious experience. 91 points—Chuck Hay- ward 2009 Vacqueyras

60% grenache, 40% syrah. Dark in color, the aromas are slightly rustic, as hints of earth mingle with dried fruit and wood notes. 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes” The palate offers up a moderate amount of concentrated boysen- Darkly colored at the core, the bouquet is a beautiful and com- berry and loganberry flavors that are fresh and lively, thanks to plex mélange of rich fruit and woodsy aromas. The richly tex- some tangy acidity on the finish. Round in texture, the finish is tured fruit is powerful and concentrated with juicy dark fruit soft with very faint, earthy tannins. Best between 2012-2016. 90 flavors at the core. Somewhat firm with substantial tannins, the points—Chuck Hayward finish concentrates more on the wine's fruit and is not drying in the slightest. Should make for great drinking over the next dec- ade. 94 points—Chuck Hayward 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape

A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah and 10% mourvedre. The color is a muddled garnet that currently lacks clarity. Not mak- 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieille Vignes” ing an overt statement, this wine relies less on fruit and more on Composed of 90% grenache from 80-to-100-year-old vines, the delicate spice flavors. Of medium weight, there is a core of pure remainder 45-year-old mourvedre grown in the Le Crau lieu-dit. fruit wrapped in subtle spice and other savory elements. Show- Colored a clear ruby, this is a firm, structured rendition that ing more structure on the finish, this is a simple and straightfor- stresses savory flavors over pure fruit expression. Dry with tex- ward wine to be drunk over the next 4-8 years. 90 points—Chuck tural tannins that make up a slightly rough finish, this will age Hayward well for 10-12 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 70% grenache, 15% mourvedre and 15% syrah. Very deeply col- ored. The aromas are reticent and closed, but the flavors are deep and the texture is quite juicy. A beautifully proportioned wine, this is perfectly balanced and harmonious, offering structure on the backpalate as fine tannins contribute to a long, lingering fin- ish. The flavors prompt you to return again and again for anoth- er taste. Approachable now, look for this wine to peak in 8-10 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

23 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine de la Charbonniere

2003 Chateauneuf du Pape “Mourre des Perdrix” Practically translucent at the core, the rim is showing the barest hint of mature coloration. A whiff of sweet fruit is surrounded by aromas of fresh mushroom and soy sauce. The palate shows much more strength and interest with notes of kirsch and milk chocolate creating mouth-filling textures. Open and ethereal, powerful flavors lurk within the light textures at the core of the wine. Perfectly poised, the wine is drinking quite well at this point, retaining some of its youthful fruit while being more open, thanks to time in the bottle. Drink now and over the next 4-6 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2008 Chateauneuf du Pape “Mourre des Perdrix” 70% grenache, 15% syrah, 15% mourvedre. Dark in color, aromas of meat, garrigue and Worcestershire sauce are clearly evident. Round fruit textures provide vibrant juiciness on the midpalate, while tangy acidity keeps the flavors lively and fresh. The fruit flavors trail off a bit too quickly as finely textured tannins linger on the finish to leave a firm impression. A few years in the bottle should help this cuvée settle down, with maturity expected in about 8 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvée 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Mourre des Perdrix” Speciale” 69% grenache, 15% syrah, 15% mourvedre, 1% cinsault. A cuvée 60% grenache and 40% syrah from a lieu-dit in the northwestern based on 30-50 year old vines from a site with sandy soils in section of the appellation that sees more wind and humidity than Courthezon. The bouquet is forward with pure fruit expressions. other areas. The aromas here are quite refined and focused, if a Very juicy and supple on the palate, flavors of wild cherry are bit reticent, with notes of pepper and spice. The grenache here is present, with a hint of chocolate. This is a very approachable not as fruity as in the winery's other cuvées, but there is undenia- wine with rich, concentrated fruit flavors that avoid any sense of ble concentration at the back of the palate that bodes well for overripeness. Succulent and just plain delicious, this is a big step some short-term aging. Very complex with layered flavors, the up from the winery's standard cuvée. 95 points—Chuck Hay- tannins are fine in texture and contribute to a structured finish. ward Give this wine a few years to open up and know it will last 12-15 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

24 ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine de la Solitude

Harvesting the entirety of its fruit from the lieu-dit named after the estate, these wines show a distinctly modern style with dark hues and pure, lush textures. Much of this comes from the deci- sion to rid the cellars of the old foudres. Feeling that the cellars were at risk for microbial infections and that they contributed very dry tannins to the final blends, owner Jean Lancon replaced them with smaller barriques, which helped to increase the gener- osity of fruit on the palate. He takes great care to minimize the effect of oak on his wines noting, ―I am a winemaker, not a lum- berjack.‖

All the estate‘s wines are fermented separately and find them- selves whittled down to about 20 different lots. The final blend is put together six months before bottling and parcels that do not make the cut are sold to local negociants. In 2007, an excellent Jean Lancon of Domaine de la Solitude in his office year in the region, only 10% of the wine was sold off. But the selection is more severe with difficult harvest like the 2008 which Although this property has a rich winemaking history, it has saw the negociants get 25% of the year‘s wine. only been recently that I have come to appreciate how exception- al their wines are. It was not the special reserve cuvées that cap- tured my attention, though, but their classic cuvée, whose recent 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc vintages have offered profoundly rich flavors at a price too good 55% clairette, 10% grenache blanc, 20% roussanne, 15% bour- boulenc. Straw colored. Attractive aromas of lemon blossom, to be ignored! fresh pollen and honey mead initially fill the glass. An example of a fresher style from the appellation, this offers understated The isolated property is a short distance west of the famous Le flavors of almonds and nuts. The elegant nature of the wine is Crau vineyards which partially explains the depth of flavors that shaped by fresh acidity, which keeps the flavor profile in bal- this winery can achieve. The estate has its own special micro- ance, and while there is some richness beginning to appear at the climate situated in a small valley and sheltered from the mistral backpalate, there is no sense of overripeness here. Wait a few years, as this should get even better, and drink by 2017. 92 winds. No matter which direction you look, the view shows points—Chuck Hayward broad streaks of white among orange-red strips, green foliage between vines and plots of bristly stumps planted in rows that stand in stark contrast to the veritable sea of smooth rocks as far 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc “Cuvée Barberini” as the eye can see. 95% roussanne with 5% grenache blanc. Powerful aromas of lem- on cream with hints of honey reveal themselves on this complex nose. Medium to full bodied with pleasant textures at the core of the wine, the finish is thick and concentrated with intriguing hints of honeyed toast and ripe Bosc pears. Round, plush and approachable, drink now and over the next 3-5 years. 94 points— Chuck Hayward

25 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine de la Solitude

2007 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Reserve Secrete” This year's cuvée is comprised of 55% syrah and 45% grenache . It‘s a powerhouse of a wine. Beautifully extracted fruit that is pure and concentrated aromatically, juicy textures are supple- mented with aromas of jujubee candies, grenadine and crème de cassis, along with beef marinade. Forward and enticing, the con- centrated flavors are round and constantly evolving, and the tannins are subtle and understated with the very fine structure perfectly integrated with the lingering fruit on the finish. A 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape seamless wine that can be drunk right away but will go 15-20 Deeply colored and opaque at the core, the rim is magenta. years with ease. 97 points—Chuck Hayward Youthful aromas of fresh garrigue are present, mingling with flavors of dark fruit and cocoa that emerge on the midpalate then pick up concentration and intensity towards the backpalate. The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Barberini” finish is a never ending mélange of sweet fruit and fine tannins, 70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% mourvedre. While the color of with a final punch of chocolate and hints of fleur de sel. Sumptu- this cuvée seems a bit advanced, there is no mistaking the entic- ous at this point, expect continued drinkability over the next 10- ing bouquet which offers up a wondrous mix of secondary aro- 12 years. 95 points—Chuck Hayward mas like sweet earth and fresh black truffles to go along with youthful and subtle dark fruit. Medium weighted with a soft core of Bing cherry laced fruits, the finish is firm and dry thanks 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Reserve Secrete” to some noticeable tannins, though a few more years may help 75% grenache, 15% mourvedre and 10% syrah. This vintage of resolve those. Look for peak drinking in ten years. 93 points— ―Secrete‖ is open and complex aromatically with bright and fo- Chuck Hayward cused scents of sweet cherry. The flavors fall in line with the wine's broad aromatic nature by showing supple fruit textures which gracefully caress the palate. Creamy on the midpalate, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Barberini” tannins are present in the finish but very finely grained. Ap- Darkly colored and opaque at the core. The bouquet shows ripe proachable now, this wine will peak in the next 8-10 years. 94 fruit, initially hinting at raisin but slowly revealing aromas of points—Chuck Hayward sour cherry. This is a more structured wine, showcasing a strong presence of dry, firm tannins. Combined with the wine's com- pact shape on the finish and interesting spice notes, this is very 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Reserve Secrete” reminiscent of a rustic Italian wine… until the flavors of dark 65% grenache and 35% syrah, aged in a combination of tank and fruit and bittersweet chocolate quickly bring you back to the small oak barrels. Opaque at the core and darkly colored to- Rhone. Needs another 3-5 years to soften and best drunk by wards the rim. With attractive aromas of kirsch mingling with 2026. 93 points—Chuck Hayward dark fruit, this is a pretty wine that emphasizes a softer interpre- tation of Chateauneuf. Possessing very creamy textures, the pal- ate is less about structure, despite the presence of subtle, small- 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cornelia Constanza” grained tannins that are barely there on the backpalate. As with The first bottling of this cuvée, which is 100% grenache from some of the other cuvées, a telltale note of bittersweet chocolate vines 80 years and older. 25% aged in French oak. The bouquet is appears as well. Best between 2019-2023. 94 points—Chuck Hay- starting to show hints of maturity with aromas of fresh earth ward mingling with expressive scents of kirsch. The attractive, creamy midpalate offers up a perfect expression of ripe and pure grena- che. With the barest hint of overripeness, there is just enough tannin to provide a firm finish. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

26 ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

On the northern boundary of the appellation and not far away Given this streak of individuality, it should come as no surprise from Chateau Beaucastel lies Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and that he was an early adopter of biodynamic practices in 2002. A its passionate owner, Jean-Paul Daumen. Founded in 1905 by his firm believer in destemming, there are no whole bunches used great-grandfather, the estate's production was originally just during fermentation. Foudres are also utilized although small sold to negociants with small amounts made for family and amounts of wine are aged in barriques. friends starting in the 60s. Jean-Paul followed his father's efforts to improve the winery and has now made it one of the top do- In the end, however, one does not drink a conversation. It may maines in the appellation. The wines were quite striking but it spark a memory that I will be lucky to remember, but what will was having the chance to meet and chat with Jean-Paul that linger for all of us will be the deliciousness of the wines from this proved to be the highlight of our visit. special property.

When visiting the best wineries, conversations frequently turn to thoughtful, almost spiritual topics that give great insight into the mind of a winemaker. And so it was that our discussion with Jean-Paul turned from the details about his estate to the many larger issues that framed his life. Jean-Paul has a very philo- sophical view about his role as the owner of the property. ―For me, transmission of the terroir is important. Each person must give something new to the estate, to express their personality. Yet they should not change—they must keep—the typicity of the estate. I feel the weight of the estate on my shoulders. It is my duty to do something for the estate.‖

As we chatted around a simple table, I got the impression that he is a bit of loner—preferring to avoid the social aspects of a life in the world of wine and just quietly work to make the best wines he can. In discussing some of the internal political fights in the area, he declared with a laugh that they can ―continue the war without me!‖ And he is not afraid to buck the conventions of how wine should be made, remarking ―I am not convinced that gallets are important in making wine. Clay is.‖

Jean-Paul Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

27 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

2005 Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve” Opaque and almost black in color. The bouquet at this point is Not made in every vintage, only about 125 cases were produced quite reserved, possibly indicating that this could be closing up. from a plot of century-old grenache vines planted on sandy soils. Flavors of bright cherries are prominent on the palate and are This darkly colored wine has compact and rather closed aromas complemented by a sandstone-like minerality. Some vibrant with smoky overtones mingling with blueberry jam. The palate acidity keeps things lively and bright as the midpalate is re- reveals gobs of richly textured, pure fruit that coats the tongue. vealed. The fruit on the finish falls out a bit quickly as chunky Almost confectionary and viscous, the blueberry jam flavors are tannins contribute to the firm and spicy finish. It's probably best borderline ripe yet never giving the sense that it is over-the-top. to wait a few years on this, as it will be better in 3-5 years. 94 With so much flavor now, it is hard to resist, yet 5-10 years will points—Chuck Hayward bring provide some softness, toning down the juicy, primary fruit. 95 points—Chuck Hayward 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape On the nose, the dense aromas are a touch feral and sauvage with hints of strawberry and bittersweet cocoa. More savory on the palate, there are just hints of sweetness here as the palate show- cases flavors of dark fruit mingling with textural tannins that, although fine in texture, are substantial enough to provide a firm finish. (Although 2007 was a better vintage overall, a reserve cuvée was made in 2006 but not in 2007.) Approachable now, this wine will be best between 2020-2022. 95 points—Chuck Hay- ward

2007 Chateauneuf du Pape The core is opaque, the color deep and dark. This is an incredible wine which walks the tightrope of full extraction while maintain- ing a sense of structure and avoiding a tannic presence or jammi- ness. Flavors of dark fruit and kirsch are intertwined with the appropriate acidity to keep the palate fresh. The finish is struc- tured, a touch tangy and firm, while preserving softness as fruit wraps around the tannins in the back of the palate. Owner Jean- Paul Daumen thinks this vintage is ―too accessible‖ yet a few years in the cellar would do wonders with peak maturity arriv- ing in 14-18 years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

An old vine amid spring flowers at Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

28 ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine la Barroche

Domaine la Barroche, owned by the Barrot family, is located Upon entering the winery, we met Christian Barrot, a charming behind an unassuming gate on the fringe of ―downtown‖ Cha- and affable gentleman with a twinkle in his eye, quick to offer a teauneuf du Pape. Entering the small courtyard used for park- smile or a laugh. As we talked, it was clear that he preferred to ing, the first impression is of a contemporary home with bed- spend more time in the vineyard and muck around with his tools rooms on the top floor and a small office next to the garage. and tractor and leave the winemaking to his passionate and en- However, behind the doors is a small stairwell which descends ergetic son. Julien shares the family penchant for congeniality backwards in time to an old cellar beneath the small crushing while harboring an exuberance for wine that was quickly evident area where the equipment and tools are organized. as he jumped from the top of one old foudre to another with his plastic siphoning tube in hand.

Julien (l) and Laetitia Barrot of Domaine la Barroche

The estate's wines were originally sold to negociants with a small amount of wine kept for the family and friends. When Julien Cellar entrance at Domaine la Barroche finished his winemaking studies at Montpellier, he created the

Domaine la Barroche label in 2003 (the wine was originally At Barroche, you quickly get an introduction to two major shifts called ―Lou Destre d'Antan‖). With much of the family's hold- in the fabric of the region. The first is the transfer of winemaking ings dedicated to old-vine grenache, the winery now makes four responsibilities from one generation to another. It's something different cuvées. rarely witnessed in a young market like California and never among larger, corporate wineries. Yet in Chateauneuf, we often met two generations working together, though the veteran was often in the back doing other things, with the apprentice up front enthusiastically explaining the wines of the property to us.

29 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine la Barroche

The most prized holdings are the old-vine grenache plots with 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape “Signature” the best grapes coming from a plot of century-old vines in the 66% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 13% syrah and 6% cinsault. The sandy soils of the Grand Pierre lieu-dit nearby Rayas' vines. Oth- basic cuvée is destemmed and aged in a combination of used er 100+ year grenache vines are from the lieu-dits of Palestor and barriques and larger demi-muids. Darkly colored through to the rim, medium-weighted aromas of fresh plums and prunes along Terre Blanches, whose soils have more galets, giving the resulting with dusty bittersweet chocolate and caraway seed constantly wines more structured nuances on the palate. In addition to change and evolve. The palate offers up rich albeit elegant and those vineyards, Julien is very excited about the 65-year old focused textures that are framed in by some subtle acidity. cinsault vines grown at an obscure location in the southwest Showing great personality, the flavors of bright bing cherries and corner of the appellation. blueberries are almost Burgundian in style and texture and con- tribute to a persistent, lingering finish. This is a top 2008 release! Barroche also bears witness to another development in Cha- Drink over the next ten years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward teauneuf du Pape: wineries of the region are literally bubbling with excitement as younger winemakers alter the discussion 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape “Fiancée” among themselves. Rather than let the appellation speak first, 50% grenache aged in steel and 50% syrah aged in barriques. The these vignerons are recognizing and raising the profile of the high-toned aromas of sour cherry mixed with bittersweet choco- grenache grape. The Decourvertes de la Rhone tastings during late are moderately intense and ever changing in the glass. That complexity in the bouquet follows through on the palate where one day led to late-night parties where grenache was the central the juicy grenache component marries nicely with the structured theme to the festivities. In addition to some great party invita- minerality provided by the syrah. The evolving textures lead tions, Julien has done his bit at the winery by creating several into smoky fruit on the lengthy finish which is buttressed by smashing grenache-centric cuvées. The best wine, labeled ―Pure‖ sweet, gravelly tannins. A very complex wine that has the fruit from that 100-year-old grenache vineyard near Rayas' plot, has and structure to go 10-12 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward garnered incredible critical acclaim and shows the intense purity of fruit and round textures that are imparted by sandy soils. We can look forward to more expressions like these from him in the future.

John Sweeney peering out of the cellar at Barroche Chuck Hayward checking his balance

30 ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

lars with rows of gleaming wood tanks and foudres. The style is consistent with a core (about 2/3 of the cuvée) of grenache-based soft fruits and firm, structural components given to the blend (about a third) by the mourvedre and syrah. The impact of vin- tage variation becomes easy to notice given the consistent sourc- ing of fruit from one spot. Unlike many wineries in Chateauneuf, Vieux Telegraphe has not embraced the charge into special bot- tling, preferring to have their classic cuvée represent the best from the estate.

Today, the winery is surrounded by scaffolding and cranes with barrels stacked atop barriques and crammed into a hall full of foudres. Cellars are being expanded as are the reception area and offices. Recognizing the need to showcase the benefits of bottle aging, plans are being developed to create a library of 7000 cases Claire Latcher of Vieux Telegraphe for each vintage for release later when the wine is mature. And with Shaun Bishop (c) & John Sweeney (r) of JJ Buckley in addition to their publicized purchase of Domaine les Pallieres in Gigondas with import partner Kermit Lynch, they have also purchased Domaine de la Roquete, a property located just out- As stated earlier, Robert Parker has done much to promote the side the town of Chateauneuf du Pape. The future is indeed wines of Chateauneuf du Pape. If pressed to choose which prop- looking bright for this popular estate. erty saw the greatest rise to prominence as a result, it must be this one. For as Parker started beating the drum, his discovery of Vieux Telegraphe set in motion a long trajectory of mutual suc- cess.

Founded at the turn of the century, the Brunier family has sourced fruit exclusively from the now famous lieu-dit of Le Crau, part of the reason for the renown of this parcel. Le Crau benefits from being a warmer site where exposed vines on a plat- eau mixed with sandy soils and gallets are among the first in the appellation to be picked.

Success has not prompted the need for marked changes at VT, and winemaking here is quite traditional in spotlessly clean cel-

Old and new together, 2010 & 1998 31 ESTATE PROFILES Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

2010 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Blanc 2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe From a barrel sample. 40% clairette, 30% grenache blanc, 15% 65% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 15% syrah and 5% other varie- bourboulenc, 15% roussanne. This wine is a modern styled white tals. Clear and bright garnet colors are vibrant and translucent at Rhone wine with bright, crisp fruit aromas of citrus and white the core. This bouquet may not be overt and open as many other melon that are clean and precise. The crisp fruit flavors are com- 2009s but still retains its concentrated nature. The palate, howev- pact and linear at this point in the wine's development, as some er, explodes with flavor and texture. Notes of chocolate and integrated acidity provides great length to the finish. 91-92 kirsch, along with other dark fruits, are round, rich and almost points—Chuck Hayward Australian in style. The fruit carries on to a lengthy finish with velvety, soft tannins to support the rich flavors. Great to drink now, this will peak in 15-18 years if you can keep your hands 2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “Telegramme” away. 95 points—Chuck Hayward 100% grenache, this is the second wine of the property. (Named

‗Vieux des Mas Papes‘ until 2003.) This cuvée is based upon vines about 20-25 years old. Bright and clear, there is just the 2010 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe barest opaque color at the core. Reserved on the nose and palate, From a barrel sample, unknown cépage . Darkly colored through the flavor profile is tight and focused and currently not showing to the rim, the powerful aromas of dark fruit are bright and vi- any generosity. The finish consists of firm structure with some brant. This precision carries through to the palate where the youthful tannins. Wait a few years on this and drink over the blackberry and black cherry flavors are vibrant and focused. next 8-10 years. 89 points—Chuck Hayward Complex and concentrated, there is an abundance of fruit here that will offer great texture 2-3 years down the road and should last 20 years easily. An exciting glimpse into the future here! 96- 1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 98 points—Chuck Hayward 65% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 15% syrah, and 5% cinsault. This vintage is currently showing more firm, structural qualities as the juiciness that comes from the grenache component seem sub- sumed by the other varietals in the cuvée. The palate is reserved and not showing the classic rich midpalate textures at this point. The finish is compact and marked with rich tannins. A few years are needed to see where this is going. 89 points—Chuck Hay- ward

2008 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe An unqualified success from a difficult vintage. The bouquet offers up forward and perfumed fruit aromas that lead up to- wards an exciting palate of pure and elegant fruit. Approachable right now, the grenache-based flavors of black cherry and kirsch are subtly sweet and pretty, followed up with a soft finish sup- ported by discreet tannins. This is a wine that will drink well over the next 6-8 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

The lineup at Vieux Telegraphe

32 2009 TASTING NOTES

BASTIDE SAINT DOMINIQUE BOSQUET DES PAPES

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape The boisterous and outgoing Nicolas Boiron, who could easily 80% grenache from four different lieu-dits. This darkly colored pass for a rugby player, runs this estate representing the family's Chateauneuf has attractive, forward aromas of sweet cherry- fifth generation of winemakers at the estate . The winery is locat- kirsch flavors typical of the grenache grape. Almost full-bodied ed just outside of town heading north on the D68 road but they in weight, the purity of the fruit leaps out with round textures own numerous vineyards throughout the appellation. Leaning and enough concentration to carry through to where soft, subtle towards a more traditional style of wine, the wines for most of tannins contribute to a spicy finish. Very accessible now and best the cuvées are aged in older foudres but some smaller vessels are around 2020. 93 points—Chuck Hayward being added to the cellar for the recent additions to the portfolio.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Secrets de Pignan” 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 100% grenache from vines planted in 1920 in a section of the 75% grenache, 10% syrah, 12% mourvedre, 3% assorted grapes. Pignan lieu-dit where red clay soils include a smattering of rocks. This cuvée is classically styled with aromas and flavors reminis- Where many grenache-based cuvées from Pignan offer generous cent of pinot noir. Fragrant aromas of dark spice, cherry, cassis fruit textures, this blend is a touch more reserved and not as op- liqueur and loamy earth belie a slightly richer and balanced pal- ulent as the classic blend. The rock-infused soils serve to rein in ate with subtle kirsch flavor. The finish is smoothly textured the fruit concentration and add a mineral dimension to the wine. with just enough acidity to keep things light and a bit of tannin Nevertheless, the mid-palate is supple with flavors of kirsch and to wrap it all up. An elegant, fruit-focused wine and a great ex- plump raisins. Though drinkable now, a few years won't hurt ample of this style. 93 points—Chuck Hayward and this will peak between 2019-2023. 92 points—Chuck Hay- ward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “A La Glorie de Mon Grand Pere” 100% grenache aged in foudres and demi-muids from sites with 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Hesperides” sandy soil. Darkly colored at the core, the rim fades to a pale 50% grenache and 20% syrah fermented in tank, 30% mourvedre pink. This cuvée is more structured when compared to the clas- fermented in year old barrique. This is the second release of this sic cuvée. Medium bodied in weight, there is just enough fruit to 250 case cuvée sourced from the Pignan and Les Bedines lieu-dits. counterbalance the spicy and textured tannins that contribute to A completely stunning wine, it starts with beautiful, complex a firm finish. 92 points—Chuck Hayward aromas of meat, soy sauce and animale, supported by a mélange of constantly-evolving spice and fruit. The palate is seamless and 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes” integrated with cherry and berry compote flavors that seemingly 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Grapes were not never end. Not overripe, there is some sweetness to the core of destemmed. An attractive bouquet is initially closed but, with fruit and great length towards a finish that lingers forever with aeration, dark fruits intermingle with hints of grilled meat. The the barest hint of tannin. This exciting wine has got it all in per- tannins are very fine and the long finish is supple and soft. Mod- fect proportion. Just drink it all today and don't wait another 10 erately intense and concentrated dark fruits will unfurl with years. 98 points—Chuck Hayward time. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

33 2009 TASTING NOTES

CHANTE CIGALE CHATEAU DE LA GARDINE

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape If anything, Chateau de la Gardine is probably best known for its 80% of the cuvée rests in foudres with a portion aged in smaller unique bottle shape. The slightly oval/triangular vessel is quite barrels. Forward and complex aromas of earth and pepper spice unique and calls to mind an older, more traditional—maybe mingle with liqueur-like fraise sauvage fruits. This attractive even conservative—estate. The bottle, unfortunately, gives a bouquet leads into fairly full bodied wine with just enough con- misleading impression as to what the winery is all about. The centration of dark fruit on the backend of the palate where a winery is actively pushing the envelope with new styles and firm, fresh finish awaits. Packed with flavor, a little time is neces- cuvées. sary, after which the wine will show brightly. Drink from 2018- 2025. 92 points—Chuck Hayward Philippe and Marie-Odie Brunel represent the third generation to work at the estate, which was purchased by the family in 1945. 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes” They own a fairly significant amount of property concentrated in three lieu-dits just west of the village, some plots planted in 1925. Comprised of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Opaque in color with a slightly paler rim than the winery's classic cuvée. The nose on this blend is quite closed and reserved, but the medium 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape weighted dark fruit at the center of the palate feathers towards a 65% grenache, 20% syrah, 15% mourvedre. This sees a combina- smooth finish. The barest hint of spicy tannin is enlivened by just tion of tanks and old barrels. Hints of spice support an attractive the right amount of acids. With the compact components nicely core of pure, kirsch-influenced fruit. Medium to medium-full integrated, it just needs a bit of time to open up and reveal itself. bodied, the purity on the bouquet forms the backbone of the Give it a few years, plan on peak drinking in 10-12. 93 points— palate, where firm tannins provide a structured finish. A touch Chuck Hayward of bittersweet chocolate and fresh earth adds some complexity on the backpalate. This will provide sumptuous drinking over CHATEAU BEAUCASTEL the next 12 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward Tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on pages 18-19. 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée des Generations” 40% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% mourvedre. Aged in 100% new barriques. Dark in color with a youthfully purple rim. The new oak dominates the initial impressions as vibrant oak scents are easily apparent. The high-toned aromas follow through on the palate with tangy acids and firm tannins acting to constrict the wine's shape towards a tight profile. Give this a few years to allow the fruit to fill out the backpalate. 91 points—Chuck Hay- ward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “L'Immortale” 33% grenache, 33% syrah, 33% mourvedre. Traditionally aged in large foudres, this is a powerful cuvée with exotic aromas of game, bacon and soy. A mélange of flavors dominate the palate and complexity makes this wine immediately attractive. Howev- er, some richness and concentration on the lingering finish would make this wine even better, as the flavors fall rather quickly into fine tannins. Giving this wine a few years could link the midpalate and finish, and this will drink well for up to 15 years. An excellent wine. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

34 2009 TASTING NOTES

CHATEAU FORTIA CLOS DE L’ ORATOIRE DES PAPES The tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on page 21. This estate is owned by the negociant firm Vignobles Jeanjean/ CHATEAU GRAND TINEL Ogier. It was founded in the late 1800s and owns three different plots in different sectors of the appellation. The grenache is aged

in larger foudres with smaller demi-muids used for syrah and Located on the eastern outskirts of the town, Grand Tinel main- mourvedre. tains one of the larger landholdings in the appellation. With a family history that can be traced back to the 16th century, the estate began operations in 1972. Local superstar Philippe Cambie 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape has served as their consulting enologist for the past decade. The 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. The very rich nose is Jeune family also owns the Chateauneuf estate Domaine Saint mainly red fruit driven, dominated by notes of red cherry. Plen- Paul. ty of acidity makes this wine very balanced and yet chewy on the palate. Medium in body and classic in structure and character. 91 points—John Sweeney 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

80% grenache, 15% syrah, 5% mourvedre. Aged in foudres and demi-muids. Dark color at the core. The cherry aromas are a bit CLOS DU MONT OLIVET feral and sauvage. Dark fruits dominate the flavor profile, and a trace of richness follows on to the backpalate. The firm, struc- This is another property run by a branch of the Sabon family. tured finish is supported by the proper amount of acids and dry, The grapes here are partially destemmed and aged in foudres. slightly bitter tannins that will require short term aging to re- solve. 92 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “le Petit Mont“

95% grenache, 5% syrah. This is a very elegant yet enjoyable 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Alexis Estaslot” Chateauneuf. Pretty and floral, this is definitely red fruit driven 100% grenache. A juicy expression of grenache where the influ- with an intensely juicy flavor profile. The bright, vibrant acidity ence of site speaks clearly. Powerful, clean cassis flavors— that this wine exudes will make it a great food wine and pleasant supported by spicy structure and tannins—showcase the influ- early drinker. 91 points—John Sweeney ence of the rocky soils of the Gargiolas lieu-dit, where the grapes are grown. This unique terroir also creates a compact fruit profile which is taut and focused due to fine acidity. 93 points—Chuck 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Classic” Hayward 80% grenache, 20% syrah, mourvedre, cinsault, counoise, and vaccarese. This wine has loads of character and is very tradition- al Chateauneuf with bright red fruit and ample spice. On the palate this has great mouthfeel with well-integrated tannins and a long, pleasant finish. 92 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Cuvée du Papet” 75% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 10% syrah. By far the most intri- guing of the three cuvées produced by Clos du Mont Olivet. Deep ruby in color and supremely complex on the nose. The wine is very pure and concentrated with notes of black cherry, raspberry and strawberry, as well as a pretty floral component. A long finish and well-integrated tannins make this wine a real winner. 93 points—John Sweeney

35 2009 TASTING NOTES

CLOS SAINT JEAN 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Deus Ex Machina” 60% grenache, 40% mourvedre. The grenache comes from Le This winery‘s history goes back to 1900, when the estate was Crau with the mourvedre sourced from the Bois Dauphin lieu- founded by Edmund Tacussel. It followed a traditional pattern dit— not far from Beaucastel‘s vineyards. This cuvée is only of making small amounts of wine under their label and, at the made in excellent vintages and clearly shows that 2009 meets same time, selling wine to negociants. It was not until brothers that standard. Deeply colored and basically opaque, the fruit Pascal and Vincent Mauret inherited the property and hired local aromas are precise and focused. The palate is subtle at first but consultant Philippe Cambie that Clos Saint Jean started its ascent the excitement level ratchets up as the palate showcases more to the top echelon of wineries in Chateauneuf. complexity and layers. Not restrained or compact in profile, it is the precision of flavors and the exquisite length that sets this

wine apart. Incredibly exciting now and will remain so for 15-20 The first changes occurred in the cellar as traditional winemak- years. 98 points—Chuck Hayward ing techniques were abandoned: smaller wood vessels are now used instead of foudres, grapes are now destemmed before fer- mentation. New cellars have also helped to give the family more space to handle the small-lot production and aging now pre- ferred by Cambie and the Maurets. Three new reserve cuvées have been added to the portfolio which rapidly achieved critical acclaim. A rather large estate, most of the winery‘s needs are sourced from plots around Le Crau and include the largest hold- ings of vaccarese in the region.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 75% grenache, 15% syrah, with the remainder composed of mourvedre, cinsault, vaccarese and muscardin. The syrah is aged in 1-year-old barriques while the grenache sees concrete. Darkly colored, the fairly closed bouquet reveals scents of green herbs and spice. There are gobs of richly textured fruit here that are concentrated and beautifully flavored. The bouquet and palate have achieved a perfect sense of ripeness without going over the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Sanctus Sanctorum” top, and minerality forms the foundation of the finish, which has an innate sweetness and compelling, round textures. 94 points— 100% grenache sourced from Le Crau. Reserved and closed on Chuck Hayward the nose at this point. The classically rich and mouthfilling tex- tures can be found in abundance here, as the telltale sweet, ripe fruit flavors are complemented with minerals and structural ele- 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Combe des Fours” ments that dispense granular-like textures throughout. Powerful 60% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault and 10% vaccarese. Based and concentrated, firm tannins complete the experience and add upon fruit sourced from the Le Crau lieu-dit which includes a 106 some grip to the finish. Give this a while in the decanter or a few -year-old plot of grenache. This cuvée‘s savory qualities are the years in the bottle to allow the fruit to blossom, knowing that primary focus of the bouquet at this point, backed by notes of this will provide sensational drinking in 15 years. 97 points— fresh earth, dried meat and dusty herbs. The flavors here lack a Chuck Hayward bit of precision with warm fruit textures that are ripe and almost viscous on the backpalate. The tannins are fine with notes of dark spice peppering the finish. Should be best in 10-12 years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

36 2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE CRISTIA DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIERE The tasting notes for the 2009s can be found on pages 22-24. The third generation of the Grangeon family is now in control of this winery. Founded in 1942, the wines were sold in bulk to DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE negociants until the grandchildren decided to bottle the grape production for themselves. The winery makes three different red blends fashioned from their certified organic vineyards spread This large property makes a full range of Rhone wines with across four lieu-dits in the eastern portion of the appellation, with Cotes du Rhones and Vins de Pays cuvées of all colors produced the reserve-level cuvées only produced in exceptional vintages. alongside the Chateauneufs. The grenache is matured in foudres to preserve the inherent fruit qualities while the syrah and

mourvedre components are aged in barrels to temper their tan- 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape nic nature. The winery is a family affair, and Jean-Luc Colombo 90% grenache, 10% syrah from 20-60 year old vines grown in serves as a consultant. All the cuvées in 2009 had 20% whole- sandy soils. Fermented in concrete with no oak. This is a ripe, bunch clusters in the fermentation. modern styled cuvée that is darkly colored where the powerful, concentrated grenache flavors come through. With a great deal 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Tradition” of richness, the texture is almost liqueur-like and the tannins are ultra fine. Approachable now, this will only get better and more 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Darkly colored. The open over the next few years and will easily last fifteen more. 94 beautiful aromatics are dominated by spice, grilled meat and points—Chuck Hayward fresh fruit. Not juicy or fruity in style, though, as structure is the name of the game in this release. Spice and tannin combine to

provide a firm finish, one that fades a bit too quickly. 92 points— 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Renaissance” Chuck Hayward 60% grenache, 40% mourvedre, with the grenache aged in old foudres and the mourvedre aged in new oak. Although a touch 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Chaupin” lighter in color than the classic cuvée, the bouquet takes on an- other dimension. Scents of granite and tobacco are layered with This is a 100% grenache cuvée from the Chapouin lieu-dit in the concentrated aromas of dark cherry liqueur. There is a touch northwest sector of the appellation. Lighter in color than the clas- more finesse on the palate and nicely integrated acidity helps to sic blend, yet there is more perfume and intriguing aromatics, frame a lingering, fruit-filled finish with the barest of tannins. while still retaining a sense of elegance. The palate possesses a This tension will be released after a few years in the bottle, and it ripe core of fruit which is fresh and narrowly focused while should provide great drinking over the next 15 years. 93 points— maintaining a sense of tension. While the substantial tannins Chuck Hayward here contribute to a firm finish, they are finely grained and matched by integrated acids to provide a long finish. Needs a

little time, so drink over the next 3-15 years. 93 points—Chuck 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes” Hayward 100% grenache destemmed and aged in barrels. The most darkly colored of the three cuvées, this release is closed and more back- 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes” ward aromatically. The flavors are subtle on the attack with con- centrated richness appearing on the backpalate. The overall im- 85% grenache, 10% mourvedre, and 5% syrah. Restrained and pression of the wine is one of restraint, as a compact framework backward, the nose exhibits a hint of tobacco and ash but, over- and more pronounced tannins will require some time for the all, this is not a showy wine. The closed aromas are reflected in a wine to gain weight and harmony. Best from 2014 to 2026. 93 compact flavor profile that is restrained and undeveloped. This points—Chuck Hayward cuvée needs time to reveal itself. As of now, it is hard to see where this might be going. Wait 4-5 years. 91 points—Chuck

Hayward

37 2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE DOMAINE DE MARCOUX

In 1986, brothers Christophe and Fabrice Delorme checked out of 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape their jobs and embarked on a path create a multi-regional wine 80% grenache, 10% mourvedre, 10% syrah & cinsault. This is a estate. Today, they own about 60 acres located in eight different beautiful example of elegant and traditional Chateauneuf. An appellations across the southern Rhone. Their first vineyards intoxicating nose of white flower, peach, raspberry and kirsch were located in Chateauneuf du Pape where they now own plots liqueur leads to a medium bodied palate medium with bright, in four different lieu-dits including one in Le Crau. Made in a pure fruit flavors and spicy notes of pepper. This is an excellent, modern style, the basic cuvée was first produced in 1994 and it is well-made wine and one of the more exciting of the vintage. 94 supplemented by a new reserve wine, ―La Plume du Peintre‖, points—John Sweeney which comes from a 100-year-old plot of grenache grown on clay soils from Le Crau. It has only been made in 2003 and 2005. 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes”

100% grenache. A big, concentrated wine with tons of character 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Reine des Bois” and spice. This wine has a ripe, opulent nose that is very com- 80% grenache, 10% mourvedre, 5% vaccarasse. The bunches are plex. On the palate rich and black and blue fruit dominate the destemmed for this cuvée. Very dark in color. This is a full bod- flavor profile, ending with a long, spicy finish. This has great ied wine with concentrated fruit and oak components. The ripe length and looks to have a great deal of potential. 95 points— and juicy textured fruits on the midpalate are on the verge of John Sweeney overripe but firm tannins provide structure and help keep things in check. A big, firm wine and a powerful, deeply concentrated example of what the appellation can produce. 93 points—Chuck DOMAINE DU CLOS DU CAILLOU Hayward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “les Safres” 100% grenache. A unique nose of cherry, apple cider, baking spice, and chalky minerality. The palate is driven by purple fruit, pepper and garrigue. This is relatively full bodied and

round on the palate, and the wine finishes with big, grippy tan- nins. 89 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “les Quartz” 85% grenache, 15% syrah. A rich, modern styled Chateauneuf. There is a good dose of new oak present on the nose as well as plenty of black fruits and chewy tannins in the mouth. I was pleasantly surprised by how balanced this voluptuous wine was. The last thing I wrote in my notes was ‗WOW!‘ 94 points—John Sweeney DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE

The tasting notes for the 2009s can be found on pages 25-26. 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve le Clos du Caillou” 60% grenache from the Pignan lieu-dit, 40% mourvedre. The nose is dark and rich, very spicy and smoky. Chewy and delicious, this is definitely a hedonistic wine made in a more modern style. What stood out to me most about this was the length on the pal- ate. Very integrated at its young age, the tannins are resolved and silky in the mouth. 94 points—John Sweeney

38 2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE GIRAUD DOMAINE LA MILLIERE

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Tradition” 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 60% grenache, 35% syrah, 5% mourvedre, with the syrah and 60% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% cinsault, 10% mourvedre, 10% mourvedre for this cuvée aged in barrels. This pretty wine has a counoise. The nose reveals kirsch-influenced fruit; however, the rather ripe and spicy nose. On the palate, it has structured and brett here is a bit overwhelming on the bouquet. Dark fruit and chewy tannins with a nice balance of fruit and earth components. black cherry appear on the medium-weighted palate but tough Though a little lean, overall a nice wine. 90 points—John tannins serve to dry out the finish, where brett also dominates Sweeney with notes of barnyard and old saddle leather. Cellaring for five years may bring out some fruit but it's a chance. 86 points— Chuck Hayward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée les Gallimardes”

90% grenache, 10% syrah. The grenache was aged in cement while the syrah saw time in barriques. Deep and rich in color. DOMAINE MONT REDON Incredibly spicy and complex on the nose. This wine has a won- derful streak of minerality that adds to the already complex na- The Plantin family owns this historic property that is one of the ture of this long and complete Chateauneuf du Pape. 95 points— largest in the region. Since they purchased the winery in 1923, John Sweeney the estate has expanded plantings from 2 to 100 hectares, scat- tered across six lieu-dits in the western region of Chateauneuf. Mont Redon only makes one red wine, a more elegantly styled grenache-based cuvée. Interestingly, they are the largest produc-

er of white Chateauneuf du Pape.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

Light color with the barest hint of darkness at the core. Higher toned aromas of kirsch are delicate and subtle, and the fruit is too, almost pinot like in weight and texture. Perhaps a touch simple and diluted for some, the flavors are clean and soft with a smattering of tannins. A classic, old-school rendition of what Chateauneuf can be. Drinkable now, this will last 5-8 years. 90 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE JULIETTE AVRIL

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Dark color at the core with a bright magenta rim. The elegantly framed bouquet shows hints of pepper, dark spice and earth. A lighter style, this release is almost pinot-like in texture and nuance with delicate fruit at the core and a subdued finish. However, the presence of bitter and slightly hard tannins at the end throw the wine off kilter. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

39 2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE PEGAU DOMAINE SAINT PAUL

This estate, which is run by the energetic Laurence Feraud and The Jeune family, owners of Chateau Grand Tinel, operate this her father Paul, occupies a special place in the coterie of Cha- estate and opt for making a fresh, elegant style of wine. A 1981 teauneuf du Pape. For being such an omnipresent winery in bottle made at Grand Tinel and consumed on this trip at the his- America, few people realize that the first wines were not re- toric Le Verger des Papes for lunch was drinking perfectly. leased until the mid 1980s. Pegau's vineyards are scattered throughout the central and eastern sectors of the appellation with prized holdings in the lieu-dits of Le Crau and Pignan, and these vines supply the winery's three different cuvées. 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 70% grenache, 30% syrah. The deeply aromatic bouquet possess- es concentrated aromas of crunchy Bing cherries. Fairly robust, The ―Cuvée Reservee‖, which is aged in old foudres, and the the wine is just beginning to shed its primary fruit to reveal com- ―Cuvée Laurence‖, which is only made in certain vintages, both plexity on the palate. Spicy tannins intermingle with acidity to hew to a traditional style with no destemming of fruit here. The provide some lift to the wine and create an elegant, crisp finish. critically acclaimed ―Cuvée de Capo‖ has been made just four 91 points—Chuck Hayward times in the last ten years and is a selection of the best wines in the cellar. Together with the one-off ―Cuvée Inspiration,‖ these two wines are distinctly modern interpretations of what can be 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Jumille” made with their fruit. 60% grenache, 40% syrah. This fresh, fruit-centered old vine cu- vée offers up bright cherry aromas that merge with hints of 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Reservee” spice. The palate shows more concentration of fruit than the nose indicated, along with richness on the backpalate, and the finish is Darkly colored with a garnet rim. This vintage showcases crisp and zippy thanks to some sprightly acids. While this could Pegau's identifiable bouquet of sour cherries and horse saddle. support a bit more density, it is perfect for fans of bright Cha- With medium weight, the palate displays the classic grenache teauneuf du Pape. 91 points—Chuck Hayward flavors of wild, sauvage cherries, while refreshingly tangy acidi- ty combines with other spicy flavors and tannins to create an intriguing finish. Very traditional. 91 points—Chuck Hayward DOMAINE VIEILLE JULIENNE The tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on page 28.

DOMAINE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE The tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on page 32.

40 2009 TASTING NOTES

JEAN DEYDIER/CLEF'S D'OR OLIVIER HILLAIRE

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Olivier Hillaire served as the winemaker for Domaine des Re- A selection of grapes from 6 to 7 lieu-dits. Darkly colored with a langes for a number of years until 2006 when the owner decided thin rim of garnet. A more traditionally styled Chateauneuf, to retire and sell his vineyards. Hillaire managed to secure two moderately intense aromas of brett and horse saddle dominate key plots in order to start his own label. In addition to a section the fresh kirsch notes underneath. The core of fruit is soft, under- of vines located in the Grand Pierre lieu dit, Olivier obtained a stated and reminiscent of raspberry liqueur, followed by noticea- choice parcel of century-old grenache vines which make up the ble tannins that contribute to a dry finish. Will hold for ten years. special, limited production ―Cuvée Les Petits Pieds d'Armand‖. 89 points—Chuck Hayward His tasting room is in the center of town opposite La Mule du Pape, one of the older dining establishments in town.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Selection” 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape A blend comprised from old vines grown in Le Crau and Pied Long and the second release of this cuvée. The reticent bouquet 90% grenache, 10% syrah. Aged in barriques, no foudres. Dark opens to reveal clean and pure aromas of soft fruits mingling at the core. The seductive bouquet offers attractive aromas of with hints of earth. Medium bodied, there is a core of dark fruit grilled meat, fresh earth and sweet soy sauce. Fruit focused on on the palate that continues on to form the foundation of the the palate, medium-full-bodied flavors of kirsch lead into fine, wine's finish. However, the flavors are cut short somewhat spicy tannins to provide a lip-smacking finish. Aging will make quickly when firm tannins kick in. Some short term cellaring will this even better. 94 points—Chuck Hayward help if you prefer a fresher style, though 15 years will see this wine in perfect maturity. 93 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Petits Pieds d'Armand” 100% grenache. Aged in 400 liter barriques from fruit grown in 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Cuvées Centenaires” the southern portion of the Le Crau lieu-dit. This classic, rich gre- 100% grenache grown in the lieu-dit of Le Crau. Backward, re- nache shows explosive fruit on the palate—ripe but not over the served fruit aromas are just starting to show complexity, as top— thanks to acids adding freshness and elegance to this stones and minerals reveal themselves with air. They repeat on thickly textured cuvée. Juicy and round, concentrated fruit on the palate, which is focused and compact with a great purity of the backpalate makes way for a long, lingering finish marked by concentrated fruit at the core which has yet to unfurl, due to fine- very fine tannins. 94 points—Chuck Hayward ly structured tannins. The most intense cuvée produced by the winery, this is quite young and should not be approached for a few years unless given a good decant. The fruit intensity bodes well for great drinking until 2025. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

41 2009 TASTING NOTES

PAUL AUTARD PIERRE HENRI MOREL

Jean-Paul Autard has worked at the family winery since he was Pierre Henri Morel has had a long career working alongside 17, working their vineyards located in the eastern portion of Michel Chapoutier, though the 2009s represent only the second Chateauneuf du Pape. Founded in 1924, all his wines are grena- offering of wines under his own moniker. His Chateauneufs are che-based blends with a preference for aging his cuvées in oak part of a larger portfolio of wines from the Rhone and are wor- barrels instead of foudres. thy followups to his inaugural release, as his style reflects what he has learned at Chapoutier. These are wines with a sense of 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée le Cote Ronde” elegance and poise. 50% grenache, 50% syrah. Darkly colored. Currently closed and not showing a lot of forward character, though the subtle per- 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape fume of dusty cherry slowly reveals itself with aeration. Medium 90% grenache, 10% syrah and mourvedre. This is a bit closed -bodied, the palate is firm and structured with black cherry fla- aromatically but pure, delicate aromas of high-toned cherry fruit vors dominating a crisply textured finish. Give this 3 years to appear with a little air. The stylistic approach here is subtlety open up and drink for another 15. 92 points—Chuck Hayward over power and extract, yet this is not shy or reserved. Rather, the clean fruit flavors are rich enough to provide an enticing and 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Juline” supple finish with herb-laced tannins. Drinkable now, this wine could be quite a surprise in ten years. 91 points—Chuck Hay- 50% grenache, 50% syrah. This cuvée is aged 100% new French ward oak. Another deeply colored cuvée. The nose features aromas of pronounced oak, including hints of green peppercorn and spice, which are mirrored on the palate. Noticeable acidity frames a 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Pignan” compact finish, marked by tannins. This bottling seems quite 100% grenache from the Pignan lieu-dit. Only 200 cases of this young and undeveloped, though some time should allow the cuvée were made, fermented in concrete and aged in larger demi fruit to shine through. Wait 2-4 years for things to settle. 91 -muids. Opaque color. Although the bouquet is subtle and re- points—Chuck Hayward strained, the fruit aromas are pure and balanced with great acidi- ty providing lift and finesse on the finish. Pure and focused, this is a very pretty wine showing just a hint of sweetness to the fruit but no concentration or viscosity. With its polish, it is obvious this has been made with a deft hand. Although quite approacha- ble now, this could benefit from a few years to let the wine open up and will peak by the end of the decade. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

42 2009 TASTING NOTES

RAYMOND USSEGLIO ROGER PERRIN

This domaine released its first wines in 1964 and has gradually This estate was founded in 1969 by Roger Perrin, not related to added vineyards to the original plot located in the rocky Terres the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel fame. He passed away in Blaches lieu-dit just north of the town. As with many other prop- 1986 and his son Luc took over winemaking responsibilities and erties, the estate was revitalized when Stephane, Raymond's son, set about upgrading the cellar with new equipment. Sadly, Luc assumed winemaking responsibilities in 2004. He has recently passed away in August of 2010 and the future of the estate is added new cuvées to the portfolio, including a 100% roussanne uncertain. cuvée and a mourvedre-dominant blend aged in new barriques. It is important to note that the US importer offers slightly altered 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape blends bearing different names into the market. 72% grenache, 20% syrah, 5% mourvedre, 3% other varieties.

Subtle aromas of kirsch and spice are pleasant and ethereal. This 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is a more elegant style of Chateauneuf with medium-weighted, 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Deeply concentrated, fruit-forward textures with just a hint of dark fruits. A bit more almost backward aromas of dark fruit and a touch of spearmint complexity and intrigue would elevate this wine. 89 points— dominate the bouquet. Medium bodied, this offers richness and Chuck Hayward concentrated fruit on the backpalate. Dark and brooding, tex- tured tannins complete the experience, along with a sense of 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve de Vieilles Vignes” freshness thanks to the presence of some lively acidity. 93 points—Chuck Hayward Made only in exceptional vintages with a portion of the blend coming from century-old grenache. With beguiling aromas of

sweet earth, beef bouillon and spicy marinade, this cuvée shows 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “VieillesVignes” slightly more intensity and much more complexity than the reg- A touch lighter in color than the classic cuvée. This is also a more ular bottling. Medium-light in weight, the fruit here is more sub- delicate and fruit-centered blend in comparison. The bouquet tle and fades quickly to a tannic finish that creates a wine that is offers up bright, fresh aromas of cherry and this freshness carries slightly out of whack. 88 points—Chuck Hayward through to the palate, thanks to the crisp acidity. Very fine tan- nins support a restrained, lingering finish of moderate length. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Le Parte des Anges” 70% Mourvedre, 20% grenache, 10% syrah. From a single site, this mourvedre-dominated cuvée is aged in 100% new barriques. Beautiful aromas of vanilla-laced oak appear on the bouquet and are mirrored on the palate to support fresh, concentrated fruit flavors. While quite attractive, the fruit is masked, giving the impression of being overoaked. Nevertheless, this is a balanced and elegantly structured wine with good length and slightly firm tannins. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

43 2009 TASTING NOTES

ROGER SABON 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Prestige” A blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault, mourvedre and 10% This winery has a long and intricate history that starts in the counoise. Aged in a combination of foudres, barrels and demi- beginning of the 20th century when Seraphin Sabon got married muids. Very dark in color and opaque towards the rim. A shade and started to manage his wife‘s property. As some producers more weight on this medium-bodied wine, which also finds a began to bottle their own wines to prevent fraud, the family hint of brett and dark spice on the nose. This classy wine is full made this a regular practice in 1921. The family tradition of inno- of blackberry and is not as tense as the ―Reserve‖ and the finish vation was passed on to the grandchildren who began the prac- is soft with slightly more tannins. Best from 2019-2022. 92 tice of producing reserve bottlings in 1981. points—Chuck Hayward

The winery currently makes four different cuvées based on fruit sourced from more than a dozen different plots including some choice vineyards in Le Crau. The winemaking procedures for each cuvée are similar—all bunches are destemmed and grena- che dominates each blend with remainder being a combination of syrah and cinsault. The wines are aged primarily in foudres while small percentages are kept in demi-muids or barrels to add body and structure.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Olivets” A blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault, aged in foudres and large cuves. This darkly colored wine shows a muddled rim. On the nose, savory aromas of earth and subtle spices intermingle with dark fruits. A wine of medium weight, the palate reflects this more textured style by avoiding juicy, fruity qualities and emphasizing earthy, mineral aspects. Feathery and soft dark fruit flavors linger on the finish, accompanied by talc-like tannins. Peak maturity between 2021-25. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve” A blend of 60-75 year old grenache, syrah and cinsault, aged in foudres and demi-muids. The nose is concentrated aromatically with powerful dark fruits. Not over the top, the palate avoids overripeness and maintains a sense of elegance and tension. This is not to imply the wine is lean, as there is just a hint of sweet, ripe dark fruit and viscosity on this full-bodied release which makes for compelling drinking. The finish ends firmly with sub- tle tannins. Look for the wine to broaden and soften over the next five years with its best drinking from 2018-2022. 93 points— Chuck Hayward

44 2009 TASTING NOTES

SAINT PREFERT 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Collection Charles Giraud” 60% grenache, 40% mourvedre. Aged in old demi-muids. While Isabel Ferrando is the irrepressible winemaker here and a tasting the dark fruit aromas are intense, they retain a sense of balance with her is sure to include smiles and laughs along with a quiet, and purity. The flavors also show more concentration and pow- yet passionate, introduction to her winemaking approach. The er, they are not as open or approachable and the firm, structured portfolio shows a personal style which highlights elegance and finish is buttressed by harder tannins. Both the bouquet and pal- finesse instead of the powerhouse style preferred by some prop- ate clearly put this cuvée at the top of the portfolio, as this true erties. 80% of the property at Saint Prefert is comprised of stones vin de garde just has a bit more in every dimension. Put this and she prefers complete destemming of the fruit and fermenta- away for a few years; it will last until 2026. 96 points—Chuck tion in concrete. Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape 85% grenache, 15% cinsault, syrah, & mourvedre. Fairly light in color, there is very little density at the core. Delicate and subtle aromas of soft fruit combine with clean scents of dark cherry and vanilla. The feather-light flavors of fruit are pure and pick up more richness of texture and intriguing complexity on the back palate, while the finish is fresh and lingering thanks to refreshing acidity and a small amount of spicy tannin. Drink this over the next ten years, though it is very approachable now if you like a lighter-styled Chateauneuf. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve Auguste Favier” 85% grenache, 15% cinsault. Pale color similar to the classic cu- vée. Subtle scents of strawberry and cherry come across as light and ethereal. Once again, the palate is surprisingly richer and more complex than the bouquet indicates. Balanced and refined, hints of caramel and burnt sugar mingle with cherry that fades softly, bolstered by the finest of tannins. Best to drink before the end of the decade, though it could surprise and go longer. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Colombis” 100% grenache fermented in large casks sourced from sandy soils. Pale magenta in color and barely opaque at core. Mineral and spice mingle with soft fruit on the subtle bouquet, while the emphasis on the palate is one of pure, elegant fruit that is neither weighty nor thickly textured. Along with the cherry core, com- plexity comes in the form of coffee grounds and cocoa powder. The flavors fade towards a delicate finish with fine tannins. Drink for the next ten years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

45 The cellar at Domaine de la Solitude

Tank at Chateau Fortia

A barrel that didn’t make the grade at Charbonniere

Chuck Hayward (l) & John Sweeney (r) of JJ Buckley tasting Chateauneuf du Pape

Shaun Bishop peeping out of the cellar at Domaine la Barroche Welcome!

46 One of the top wine bars In Avignon

John Sweeney checking out the galets roulées

Cellar at Vieux Telegraphe

The daughter of Domaine de la Janasse's Christophe Sabon hard at work at the Decouvertes Tasting

Taking pictures at Beaucastel Foudre #35 at Domaine la Barroche

47 ABOUT THIS REPORT

Acknowledgments

This report could not have been put to- gether without the assistance of Paige About this report Granback and Farley Walker. Both of my co-workers worked diligently under The tasting notes published in this re- stressful deadlines to edit and lay out the port were assembled by Chuck Hayward content and tasting notes, and I cannot and John Sweeney of JJ Buckley's team offer enough thanks for their efforts. of fine wine specialists and are attribut- ed accordingly. Wines were tasted non- I would like to thank JJ Buckley founders blind during private appointments at Shaun Bishop and Michael Stajer for their wineries, as well as industry-organized support in taking some of our team to the tasting events in March 2011. to the Rhone, as well as the commitment of resources necessary to prepare and The essays found here were written by complete this report. Chuck Hayward.

I encourage everyone to check out all our other reports at jjbuckley.com/dl.

—Chuck Hayward

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