Northern Rhone Report The 2009

web: jjbuckley.com phone: 888.85.wines (888.859.4637) email: [email protected] twitter: @jjbuckleywines 7305 edgewater drive, suite d | oakland, ca 94621 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top Picks 3 Introduction 4-5 Appellations 6-12 The Grapes 13-14 15-16 Negociants 17 18 19 Jaboulet 20 Delas 21 2009 Tasting Notes 22-36 Photographs 37 About This Report 38

2 TOP NORTHERN RHONE PICKS Favorite of the Visit

JJ Buckley‟s Top Picks for 2009 Northern Rhone Reds Chapoutier Ermitage “Le Meal” Clusel-Roch Cote Rotie “Les Grandes Place” Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage (Best Value) Domaine Remizieres Hermitage “Cuvée Emilie” Marc Sorrell Hermitage ”Greal”

JJ Buckley‟s Top Picks for 2009 Northern Rhone Whites Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc “L‟Ermite” Delas “Clos Boucher” Marc Sorrell Hermitage Blanc “Rocoules”

3 NORTHERN RHONE The Mystery Spot

The revision of appellation boundaries A revealing indication of the differences has not been without repercussions. between the two sections can be found New vines have been planted as much in Robert Parker's writings. A long-time for ease of growing and harvesting as enthusiast and promoter of Rhone for making wines of quality. Steep hills wines, his articles about the southern and slopes have historically grown the Rhone outnumber northern Rhone texts best fruit, but it is an expensive proposi- 3 to 1. Given Parker's preference for tion to tackle, as is maintaining those plush and luxurious textures, that ratio sites once the vines take root. New vine- makes sense. But younger writers are yards on fertile soils at the foot of the short changing the northern Rhone, as slopes may be easier to farm, but they well. The Rhone Report, a website run will produce a different standard of by Jeb Dunnuck, is almost exclusively grapes than hillside plantings. At a time dominated with writing focused on Like so many worthwhile pursuits in when the market looks for clearly Chateauneuf du Pape. life, understanding the northern Rhone understood wines, those regions risk can be quite a mystery. Grapes have ruining carefully nurtured standards of been growing continuously in the hills quality that capture the essence of these surrounding the small towns of Ampuis appellations as expressed by old vine and Tain since Roman times. Centuries and hillside cuvées. later, the wines of Hermitage were so popular they commanded higher prices While Rhone wines in their entirety are than Bordeaux and were part of Thomas relatively popular today, the wines of Jefferson's cellar. It wasn‟t that much the north are inherently less understood later when wines from obscure regions and less promoted than their friends to like Condrieu and St. Peray were found the south. Today, Chateauneuf du Pape in the best salons and restaurants of and its neighbors have attracted the . fancy of the American consumer. Allur- ing in their ease of pronunciation and However, troubles arose in the first half their approachability as young wines, of the 20th century as the appellations of the southern Rhone appellations have the northern Rhone were among the come to define the Rhone Valley in the first to deal with the great devastation minds of many consumers. from phylloxera as well as the horrific economic conditions that particularly affected the north after World War I. But as the region's wines regained their international markets, prices rose—for both the wine and land—and some and appellations were ex- panded to meet the increased demand.

4 NORTHERN RHONE A River Runs Through It

There is a tangible difference between The differences don‟t stop at appearance as the dominant grape. Any the northern and southern Rhone. For as weather conditions can vary consid- missteps that might occur in the vine- one, much more land is under vine in erably. The change in temperature can yard or cellar can be adjusted with a bit the south than the north. Accordingly, be noticed immediately as the north's more mourvedre or . many more wines from the southern continental climate gives way to the Rhone appellations make their way to Mediterranean conditions that dominate Today, northern Rhone winemakers our shelves and wine lists. In addition, the south. In turn, differing weather must contend with the current malaise the style of these wines are more acces- patterns impact their respective grow- about syrah that affects many markets, sible to consumers' palates with their ing conditions. For instance, 2002 saw especially in America. The variety has plush textures, a striking contrast to the torrential downpours basically wipe out come under criticism from both critics firm and compact structures found in the vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape and , resulting in stagnant areas like Cornas or Hermitage. Finally, while the wines of the north were sal- sales. That is quite unfortunate, as syrah the prices for wines from the northern vaged due to considerably less rainfall is a noble grape that clearly expresses Rhone are not as affordable as the ones and the drainage benefits that come the soils and growing conditions of its commanded by their southern neigh- from hillside plantings. The cooler tem- specific . bors. peratures of the north can also benefit Clearly the wines of the northern Rhone wines by providing grapes with the will benefit from both their diversity Part of what separates the north from natural acidity that brings elegance and and potential. The differences among the south can be attributed to geogra- finesse to what could be overripe wine appellations, indeed, the differences phy. Driving through vineyards along expressions. the northern reaches of the Rhone River, among climats within an appellation, are hills rise steeply to the east and west as When it comes to the final product, the often clear to see and understand. The you wind your way south through the fortunes of the northern Rhone are de- unique attributes and styles found small appellations. These are expensive pendent on the success of the syrah among appellations and lieu-dits should vineyards to maintain! As you leave the grape itself. Though some appellations be highlighted and celebrated. It is the southernmost region of St. Peray, the allow white grapes to be blended at the diversity of styles that will make syrah narrow valley begins to broaden into time of fermentation, the trend in the exciting again as each expression finds the soft, rolling hills and plains of the northern Rhone is for wines to increas- its audience and market. In that respect, southern Rhone where farming is easier ingly be based on 100% syrah. The the future for the wines of the northern and less costly. southern Rhone, however, works with Rhone looks bright.

5 APPELLATIONS of the NORTHERN RHONE Cote Rotie

Cote Rotie has its own fame and pres- expect certain sites to gain a greater tige yet has long labored in the shadow reputation for growing quality fruit as of the wines from Hermitage. Both of each ‟s specific qualities are these regions share a common thread: better understood in the coming years. steep hillsides from which vines and As the northernmost appellation in the pickers cling for dear life, northern Rhone, the wines from Cote that goes back to ancient Roman times Rotie typically have more finesse and and a history of both commercial suc- fragrance compared to the robust and cess and difficulty. But what set Her- structured wines from Hermitage. The mitage apart was its proximity to the fruit here is high-toned, floral and pure- town of Tain, which acted as the home ly expressed with tannins subsumed by to the region‟s negociants—the financial the concentrated fruit. In addition, the lifeblood of the northern Rhone. Not tannins are more finely grained and only did this allow Hermitage wines to fewer in quantity. Much of this is due to get more money than Cote Rotie over the slightly cooler temperatures found the centuries, but as Rhone wines lost in Cote Rotie than in the south. their commercial allure, Cote Rotie suf- fered the most. Despite negociants such is allowed to be grown in Cote as Chapoutier and Jaboulet owning sig- Rotie but only for blending with syrah. nificant acreage in Cote Rotie, it was not Map of the Northern Rhone Valley AOC regulations permit up to 20% until the 1980s that the efforts of the viognier to be added only at the time of Guigal family brought international crushing. rarely use the full recognition to the wines of Cote Rotie. amount as the influence of the viognier Today, the Guigals vinify over a third of can be quite pronounced at levels above the grapes grown in the appellation. 10%, so the practice is to add only 5% viognier to the blend, if any. The vineyards of the appellation are comprised of a number of climats that Unlike its more famous neighbor to the have subtle yet significant differences. south, the area under vine in Cote Rotie The most famous of these sites are the has expanded considerably as the for- vineyards of Cote Blonde and Cote tunes of the appellation have grown. In Brune, which for many years formed the the last 40 years, the acreage in Cote historical foundation for Cote Rotie Rotie has tripled to some 700 acres as wines. Later, sites such as La Landonne demand for Rhone wines expanded, and La Turque gained notoriety when with the 1990s seeing most of the new their fruit was bottled individually by plantings. Growth has flattened out but Guigal. it will become imperative to know each wine's fruit sources as grapes from older Today, with an upsurge in bottlings vines will see increased demand and from small growers and new vineyards prices. being planted, the names of individual lieu-dits are increasingly finding them- selves on Cote Rotie labels. We can

6 APPELLATIONS Condrieu and Chateau Grillet

Viognier is the raison d'etre for these two The Condrieu AOC was formalized in wines, a number of wineries make appellations just down the Rhone Valley 1940 with 500 acres of land eligible for sweeter wines and the region even has a from Cote Rotie. In the 19th century, planting. As of 2010, only 450 acres history of making sparkling versions. Condrieu was all the rage in Paris, were under vine, but this represents a The sugars of the sweeter wines are prized for the grape‟s aromatic qualities. ten-fold increase in acreage since the usually concentrated through late pick- Then due to a combination of changing early '70s. The vines are planted on ing or by drying in the cellar. tastes in wine and the poor economic steep hillsides, approaching gradients of conditions which plagued the northern up to 50%, and scattered among seven Chateau Grillet, which only grows viog- Rhone the first half of the 20th century, different villages that populate the west- nier, is the sole French appellation com- viognier almost became extinct. Only 35 ern side of the Rhone River valley be- prised of just one wine estate and is also acres of planted vineyards were located tween Cote Rotie and St. Joseph. the smallest AOC in the country. Com- in Condrieu in 1971, and there were prised of a little less than 10 acres, the none planted elsewhere. It‟s a far cry As noted later on page 14, viognier is a estate has been under the same family from today when viognier can be found grape that must be harvested at full ownership since the early 1800s. At that growing in both hemispheres, on a mul- ripeness and maturity to capture its time, it boasted an international reputa- titude of store shelves and on tables in exotic nature. Once harvested, the style tion with distribution throughout Eu- restaurants around the world. of wine is largely the result of wine- rope. Over the decades, the vineyard makers‟ preferences and decisions. was expanded to the point where it now produces twice as much wine as it did Increasingly, most Condrieus are seeing in the early 1970s, when the Rhone some maturation to add roundness renaissance began in earnest. and texture, usually in larger vessels. In addition to the prevailing drier styled The vineyards are planted on the hills of a natural south-facing amphitheater, perfect for ripening fruit. Stylistically, the flavor profiles are leaner and more compact than the voluptuous examples often found in Condrieu. A steely framework and mineral-laden fruit fla- vors demand cellaring to show their best.

Over the past decades, the property has frequently been viewed as a perennial underachiever whose wines do not re- call its past historical glamour or the perceived status as a great wine given its unique appellation. This may change in the very near future, as the property was sold in March 2011 to French bil- lionaire and Chateau Latour owner, François Pinault.

7 APPELLATIONS St. Joseph

Depending on how one measures it, the the soils become less fertile creating St. Joseph AOC is among the largest wines that are more angular, tannic and appellations of the northern Rhone. spicy. Stretching almost 40 miles from its northernmost sites near Condrieu to its The area under vine in 2010 is 11 times southern boundary near Cornas, St. its original limit. 25 villages are now Joseph (along with Crozes Hermitage) part of the appellation and up to 7400 represents the workhorse of the north acres are eligible for AOC certification, producing large quantities of value- though just over 3000 acres are current- oriented examples of syrah. Scattered ly planted. As more St. Joseph is pro- along the western flats, slopes and hills duced and makes its way to the global of the Rhone River, a series of small market, the location of each estate's fruit villages with different aspects and expo- will become significant in separating sures create a mosaic of wine styles. superior examples of St. Joseph from competent wines. Unlike the many appellations that were delineated in the 1930s, St. Joseph's St. Joseph is predominantly known for AOC regulations were formulated in its , based on the syrah grape 1956. At the time, just six villages com- that dominates over 90% of the produc- prised the foundation of St. Joseph. The tion in the area. The appellation's regu- original appellation was centered on lations were adjusted in 1979 to allow sites surrounding the town of Tournon, for the addition of up to 10% white a small village across the Rhone River grapes to the cuvée, as in Hermitage or from Tain. Like Tain, commerce in Cote Rotie. The practice, however, is to Tournon was based upon the local wine avoid blending in order to preserve the industry and included the cellars of a syrah identity. Most wineries destem number of negociants. These vineyard and age in large barriques and demi- sites set the historic standard of quality muids. for St. Joseph that continues today with White St. Joseph wines are blends of their old vines planted on steeply and in varying sloped granite soils. proportions. Given the richer soils, the Later the authorities considerably ex- whites of St. Joseph can have more tex- panded the boundaries of the appella- ture and richness than superior sites like tion. The area eligible for AOC certifica- Hermitage. The more obvious style of tion in 1967 was land located to the St. Joseph whites makes them suitable north and south of Tournon. This action for earlier drinking rather than cellar- brought in land that had no history of ing. Compared to the whites of St. Peray grapegrowing and expanded the variety which come from warmer growing con- of soils and aspects eligible for AOC ditions, St. Joseph wines have more def- status. In the south, the richer soils and inition and focus along with a sense of warmer climes allow for a riper, fruitier freshness. syrah style. Going north towards Cote Rotie, the temperatures cool down and

8 APPELLATIONS Crozes Hermitage

Located on slopes and small hills on the Crozes Hermitage is home to about AOC regulations also allow wineries to eastern side of the river, Crozes Her- eleven villages whose vineyards reflect add up to 15% of these into mitage produces exuberant and classic subtle differences in soil and exposure their syrah-based cuvées. expressions of syrah. Crozes is a con- that can be found in the district. The sistent source of the northern Rhone's original Crozes climats were confined to The local co-operative, the Cave de Tain best values and some examples fre- the east of the Hermitage hill, but the -L'Hermitage, is one of the unique play- quently rival wines from the more fa- expansion took in vineyards from vil- ers in Crozes Hermitage. The members mous appellations of Hermitage and lages northwest of Tain, land littered own prestigious sites in appellations like Cote Rotie. The wines of Crozes Her- with glacial and alluvial deposits from Hermitage as well as places like St. Per- mitage, along with those of St. Joseph, the Rhone River. Here the vines share a ay and Cornas. The backbone of the co- are among the most widely distributed closer connection to what is made in op‟s production comes from the Crozes of the northern Rhone. Hermitage. The soils are poor and the Hermitage, though, where they control temperatures a bit cooler which makes over 50% of the wines made in the ap- Like many of its neighbors, the appella- it tougher for grapes to grow. Therefore, pellation. The famous negociant Paul tion was organized in 1937 with the area the syrah from the newer area tends to Jaboulet also makes a large amount of allowed under vine vastly expanded in have less generous fruit textures, more Crozes Hermitage as well. As previous- 1952. This growth formed the founda- structured quality and firmer tannins, ly noted, the fact that most grapegrow- tion of the region's increased popularity which increases ageability as well. ers were also involved in other forms of and production over the following dec- farming meant that they were much ades. Today, the vineyards of Crozes The other expansion occurred to the more likely to just sell their fruit rather Hermitage comprise over half of the south and east of Tain where the soils than make their own wine so the co-ops 6000 acres that make up the northern are richer and allow the fruit to ripen served a useful function for the region‟s Rhone. easily. With less of a monoculture here growers. as grapevines mingled with other crops, Prior to the amendment to the AOC the relatively flat plots of land made it Nevertheless, much like St. Joseph, the regulations, wines were generally sold easy to work the vineyards with trac- neighbor across the river, the future of to negociants to be blended away in- tors, helping to minimize costs. The Crozes Hermitage will be defined by the stead of being bottled and labeled under resulting wines have rich, plush tex- new small estates that have sprung up the Crozes Hermitage name. Since there tures along with low acidity and tan- over the past few decades. Since the was little demand for wines from Croz- nins. These villages are the source of considerable variation of styles is based es Hermitage, many growers diversified much of the Crozes Hermitage that has upon vineyard site location and yields their agricultural interests and took ad- made these wines so popular today. (determined by the grower's pursuit of vantage of the natural growing condi- quality or quantity), it will become in- tions that allowed cherries and apricots Crozes Hermitage also produces white creasingly imperative to know the loca- to thrive alongside their vineyards. Con- wines, which vary in style depending tion of each 's vineyards as their sequently, most vineyards were tended on fermentation techniques and subre- quality levels become more defined and by farmers as there were few winemak- gional differences more than grape se- understood. ing specialists in the region. lection. Marsanne and roussanne are the primary grapes associated with production in the region while the

9 APPELLATIONS Hermitage

Of all the regions in the northern Rhone, sis on structure over generosity of fruit, Like Cote Rotie, white grapes are al- the wines from the hill of Hermitage— which means they require and repay lowed to be added to Hermitage syrah with their long and storied history—rise cellaring. As is common with vineyards as long as they are added as fermenta- above the rest of the appellations, both on hills and steep slopes, the vineyards tion starts. Blended to lighten the wine literally and figuratively. With the at the bottom of the hill provide lush and provide earlier drinkability, up to Rhone River wrapping around the vine- textures while the sites at the top are 15% marsanne and/or roussanne can be yard-laced hillside and its centuries-old leaner, more tannic and structured. added according to the AOC regulations reputation as a premium winemaking but few wineries take advantage of district, the wines of Hermitage are jus- Hermitage has recently been at a bit of a them. This means the wines of Her- tifiably the most recognized of the crossroads with two theories as to how mitage tend to be follow a more mascu- northern Rhone. wine should be made. One approach is line, powerful and structured wine blending the varied sites to create a sin- style. Most of the negociants tend to References to Hermitage wines can be gle example of what the hill can offer. destem their syrah, whole bunches re- found in ancient Roman texts and more This style if best exemplified by Jean- main a selected practice of smaller recent history links it to America via Luis Chave who owns vines in nine of growers and their domaines. Thomas Jefferson, who frequently wrote the 18 climats that comprise Hermitage. about both its red and white wines in Chave's Hermitage strives to represent For the small amount of Hermitage his journals and correspondence. Dur- the entire slope with each site contrib- white wines that are made, marsanne is ing the 1700s and for a century later, uting an essential part to the assemblage. the predominant white grape with small prices for Hermitage rivaled those of the amounts of roussanne also located in the top Bordeaux. In fact, first growths were A more recent interpretation has been appellation. The marsanne based wines known to add some Hermitage, prized popularized by Michel Chapoutier, are compact and focused as compared for its power and color, to increase the whose single-site whites and reds from with the more lush examples from sites concentration of their base wine. the hill have gained much international on richer soils close to the river or fur- praise and recognition. Many critics ther south. The more reserved style The boundaries of Hermitage were codi- think that Michel followed the example greatly repays cellaring. Hermitage fied when the AOC regulations were of the Guigal's "LaLas", the three single- whites show potential for longer aging prepared in 1937. While the area under site Cote Rotie cuvées that catapulted than its neighboring appellations. vine in Cote Rotie has tripled over the that winery to fame. Be that as it may, past 40 years, the geography of Her- Chapoutier's "Seleccion Parcillieres" mitage has made it impossible to ex- have perfectly highlighted the subtle yet pand the region. Today there are some marked differences that exist among the 350 acres under vine, an amount that varied climats of the Hermitage hill. has not varied considerably for many decades. Chave's approach will be difficult to replicate as almost three-quarters of Grapes on the Hermitage hill are grown Hermitage is owned by Chapoutier, on the south-facing folds, perfectly Delas, Jaboulet and the Tain Coopera- poised to capture the heat and rays from tive. It will be a struggle for smaller the summer sun. The soils are mostly growers that decide to make their own granite based with very little topsoil to wines to get access to the cross-section provide the struggling vines with nutri- of sites that can replicate Chave's philos- ents to ripen their fruit. Hermitage reds ophy or vineyard holdings. are focused and elegant with an empha-

10 APPELLATIONS Cornas and St. Peray

One of the smallest AOCs in the Rhone, Cornas is made with 100% syrah, no The southernmost growing region of the records indicate religious orders made white grapes are used either for blend- northern Rhone is St. Peray, another rare wine in Cornas around the year 1000. ing or to create a Cornas blanc. One of AOC exclusively limited to white But very little is known about produc- the most southern appellations in the grapes. In this case, wineries are al- tion until the 19th century when negoci- northern Rhone, there are only 220 acres lowed to produce both still and spar- ants began selling wine from here along under vine. The underlying soils are kling wines from the region‟s permitted with Cote Rotie and Hermitage. At that laced with granite, which contributes to varieties—marsanne and roussanne. time, Cornas fetched much lower prices the strong tannic structure found in About 60% of the wine produced is still (a situation that continues today). many examples from the appellation. wine, the remainder is sparkling and is The region benefits from the hills to the required to be made in the methode Up until the 1960s, most Cornas was north, protecting vineyards from the champenoise process. With only 150 acres made and sold by local negociants, alt- effects of the mistral winds. This assists of planted grapes, St. Peray is quite hough Jaboulet and Delas dabbled in ripening and allows grapes to achieve small. Given its focus and modest size, the region a bit. Given the lack of a mar- higher sugars. Because of the warmth wines from the region seldom come to ket for Cornas, few wineries bottled that comes from this unique micro- American shores. their own wines. Most was sold and climate, it is usually the first of the consumed locally and it wasn‟t until the northern Rhone regions to fruit. In the early 19th century, the sparkling 1980s that a vibrant export market start- wines of St. Peray gained a bit of a repu- ed to develop. With only 60 or so pro- A number of lieu-dits are spread tation outside the region as they became ducers making wine today, Cornas re- throughout the compact area but so far popular among the definers of taste at mains the most obscure AOC in the they‟ve had little impact on a better un- the time. But like its neighbor Cornas, northern Rhone. derstanding of the vineyards in Cornas. most of these wines were sold through a Unlike the AOCs to the north, only a system of local negociants and con- When tasted against a lineup of wines few Cornas winemakers are highlight- sumed locally. There are only a handful from other northern Rhone appellations, ing these differences in finished wines. of estates producing and bottling their Cornas displays a style that is quite One might best be able to discern the own wines today with the rest made by noticeable. Many of the wines from so- distinctions among the various climats negociants such as Jaboulet, Delas and called "second tier" appellations, espe- when sampling in the cellars of a Cor- the Tain Co-operative. cially Crozes Hermitage and St. Joseph, nas specialist. Obtaining any significant show effusive and open aromatics with insight about Cornas today must come The still wines of St. Peray are blends of generous palate profiles, whereas from placing its wines in the parade of marsanne with varying amounts of Cornas wines are quite the opposite— others from the northern Rhone, as op- roussanne. The trend lately has been to displaying restrained, reticent bouquets posed to looking at variations within the age St. Perays in wood for moderate and a dense, tannic presence on the pal- appellation. amounts of time. The sparkling wines ate. „Seductive‟ and „approachable‟ are are usually made with marsanne, as words that are rarely employed when roussanne doesn‟t seem to work well as speaking of Cornas, as these wines are part of a bubbly blend. St. Peray fizz frequently rustic with rougher textures must be made in the methode chapenpoise and earthy flavors not normally found which also includes using up north. The palates are foursquare yeast for fermentation and traditional and compact with a sense of firmness cellar aging and disgorgement practices. and structure the dominant qualities of the appellation's wines.

11 APPELLATIONS The Final Frontiers: Other Appellations

The northern Rhone is home to a num- As a result, a number of top producers, ber of other smaller appellations that especially some from Cote Rotie and will occasionally appear on shelves and Condrieu, are making wines in the cate- wine lists with a more eclectic focus. gory called vins de pays des collines These regions include Cotes du Rhone rhodaniennes. These are usually made Brezeme, Chatillon-en Diois, and from syrah or viognier and are an in- Clairette de Die. Many of the traditional creasingly useful source of well priced red and white grapes are grown but wines. The grapes are sourced from there are some offbeat wines to be newer plantings outside the Cote Rotie found as well including sweet sparkling or Condrieu boundaries or contain wines made from the obscure clairette wines that have been declassified due to . stylistic concerns or as an outlet for younger vines. Cote Rotie producers Of most interest, however, are the vin de such as Chapoutier, Jamet and Jasmin pays wines that are becoming more along with viognier specialists Yves prevalent. As demand for northern Cuilleron and Georges Vernay are Rhone wines has increased, the prices among those making excellent rendi- for established vineyards have risen as tions of viognier and syrah that bring AOC regulations often restrict the abil- the better appellations to mind. ity to plant new vines. In addition, the prices for wines have risen so that there is little affordable wine that captures the unique aromas and flavors of the north- ern Rhone.

12 THE GRAPES Building Blocks

Syrah Syrah's ability to reflect the terroir of Roussanne each appellation was explained in detail Where the southern Rhone is home to a earlier in this report where the northern Roussanne also exists throughout the broad range of red varietals that are Rhone's growing regions were dis- Rhone Valley but is rarely bottled by allowed to be grown, the northern cussed. In general, syrah grown on the itself and instead blended with mar- Rhone is home to only one: syrah. It is slopes of the Rhone will have a linear sanne to formulate a more complete the backbone of all AOCs that make red and compact flavor profile with a fair wine. A perfect partnership, roussanne is wine. The final product is usually 100% amount of tannin and structure on the prized for its acidity and high-toned fruit syrah or blended with viognier (in the finish. As the area under vine expands qualities and marries well with mar- case of Cote Rotie) or with marsanne (in to include richer soils on flatter surfaces sanne, a grape that needs acid and a bit Hermitage). Planted in the region since close to the river, as in Crozes Her- of lift on the nose and palate. Roman times, it was thought for a time mitage and St. Joseph, the syrah takes Like viognier, roussanne is susceptible to that the grape might be able to claim on plusher textures and a broader palate a number of viticultural problems, such Persian ancestry. However, recent DNA presence without the firmer qualities as mildew and poor yields, which makes studies have repudiated that theory as coming from hillside fruit. its lineage can be traced to other rare it a varietal that is scarcely found on the French varietals. The flavors of northern Rhone syrah are shelves of retail shops. It is picked at the particularly affected by the region's rela- peak of ripeness to capture the vibrant Knocking syrah has become fashionable tively cooler temperatures. Cool climate fruit flavors and acidity that creates the lately, and indeed, the grape isn‟t win- syrah shows pronounced aromas of demand for this grape. Because of its ning any popularity contests. But its black or white pepper with fresh acid focus and linear presence, only small rich history in the northern Rhone could levels and a focused palate presence, portions of the grape are blended with easily make other „rookie‟ varietals envi- qualities rarely found in the southern marsanne, usually about a third or less ous! Plus, the relative ease in growing Rhone. With slightly warmer tempera- or, in rare circumstances, in equal pro- and producing syrah makes it desirable tures, the fruit moves past peppery portions. for winemakers and growers. But most notes towards aromas of black olives, importantly, syrah deserves its place as violets, darker fruits and bacon meat. one of the wine world's most noble These wines will show slightly broader grapes because the variety transmits its textures but not the depth, power and terroir as clearly as or ries- structure that can be found in regions ling. The difference between Cote Rotie like Paso Robles or McLaren Vale. The and Cornas is about as clear as syrah stylistic equivalents of northern Rhone from the Sonoma Coast is from Paso syrah would be closer to Santa Barbara, Roble, which makes it easy for consum- Waiheke Island in New Zealand and ers and wine professionals to under- Australia's Yarra Valley. stand.

13 THE GRAPES Building Blocks

Viognier Picking can also be a nuisance as bees Marsanne and wasps find the grape's pungent Viognier is one of the most unique vari- aromatics very attractive. To fully cap- While viognier is scarce, marsanne serves etals grown in the northern Rhone or in ture the exotic flavors and aromas that as the backbone of white wine produc- the world, for that matter. As recently as are the signature of great viognier, it is tion in the north. Most of the time, espe- 1971, though, it was nearing extinction important to harvest the fruit when it is cially in Crozes Hermitage and St. Jo- with only 35 acres planted in the appel- fully ripe. seph, you'll find it blended with a bit of lation of Condrieu. Today it so common roussanne, usually around 20% but occa- and well known it is incredible to think Growers must be on guard to not pick sionally in equal proportions. Marsanne that one small plot transformed into a too late to prevent the wine from getting finds its purest expression in the hills of globally recognized varietal. too fat and flabby. Viognier can get pon- Hermitage when it is unblended. Anoth- derous and lack verve as the acidity er unblended yet more commercial style In the northern Rhone, viognier is only drops at higher sugar levels. The can be found in the southern reaches of grown in Condrieu and the one-winery grape‟s ability to ripen easily allows the northern Rhone, especially in St. Per- AOC of Chateau Grillet. The northern producers to make sweet, late harvest ay where it is the foundation of both still reaches of the valley are well suited to versions that are delicious, though quite and sparkling wines. The grape is not growing the variety as the hills to the rare. grown in Chateauneuf du Pape but is north protect vineyards from the effects permitted in other appellations in the Viognier's unique role in the northern of the mistral winds. In addition, the southern Rhone. Globally, a few places in Rhone lies not in its role as a white wine poor, infertile soils are particularly well- California specialize in the grape but but as a blending component with syrah suited to growing viognier as the re- marsanne's largest presence can be found in Cote Rotie. The powerful intensity gion‟s cooler temperatures act to pro- in vineyards just north of Melbourne, and structure that comes from growing long the ripening process and preserve Australia that are also home to the oldest syrah on the hot slopes above the town the needed acidity. vines on the planet. of Ampuis creates strong tannins and a Though it can present its own set of rather mean profile. Cote Rotie regula- Marsanne is another problematic varie- problems in the cellar, viognier is partic- tions promulgated by the AOC allow tal. If overcropped or planted in areas ularly difficult to grow, as it is prone to for 20% viognier to be blended with the where ripeness is hard to achieve, mar- poor flowering, which results in low syrah, though generally no more than sanne tends to become bland. Naturally yields, and is susceptible to a number of 10% is ever added. The grapes are usu- low in acidity and lacking pronounced diseases. ally co-fermented which actually fixes and expressive fruit flavors, winemakers the red pigments from the syrah grapes must be careful to preserve its delicate creating a deeper, darker color. And varietal characters and avoid making a viognier gives the nose a bit of lift and neutral wine. In the best examples, how- the high-toned qualities that provide ever, flavors of banana and white melon seductive and alluring qualities to the are subtle and the medium-weighted bouquet. textures offer a touch of creaminess.

14 VINTAGES 2001-2010 in the NORTHERN RHONE

The purpose of JJ Buckley's recent trip to the northern Rhone was to get a handle on the 2009 vintage, heralded by many American wine critics as one of the region’s better years in quite some time. But the definition of a good vintage is rela- tive when discussing the regions that make up the northern Rhone.

When visiting, it is easy to see the subtle differences within the north itself, as well as the more substantial matters that separate the growing regions of the north from the south. Some can be easily seen in the region's geography—the narrow valley of the north sliced by the Rhone River with vineyards clinging to hillsides as compared to the softer, rolling plateaus of the south. Shifts in climate can also be noticed when traveling south as the cooler temperatures of the north suddenly give way to warmer climes the moment you pass St. Peray and Cornas.

Given the relative scarcity of wines from the north as compared to the more prolific Chateauneuf du Papes and other Rhones from the south, it's not always easy to discern accurate vintage assessments for the northern regions. It is, how- ever, good to keep in mind that given these differences and disparities, a good vintage in the south may not mean it will be a good one in the north.

2010 — As we tasted through the 2009s in both tank and bottle, many winemakers made sure to pour barrel samples of the 2010s. While they were full of praise for the '09s, they showed particular enthusiasm for the 2010 vintage which displayed pristine and fo- cused flavors, fresh acidity and persistent flavors on a long finish. They look to be quite exciting, cellar-worthy wines.

2009 — The 2009s have the good fortune to be approachable in style. Not overly ripe or extracted, they have a supple fruit presence that reminds one of youthful burgundy. At the same time, there's enough acidity to add freshness and enliven the wines. They should maintain a core of pure fruit throughout their aging process.

2008 — Consumers need to be very selective in purchasing reds from 2008 because of the considerable rains during the growing sea- son, especially right before harvest (the most rain in the north for over 40 years). The wet weather caused disease pressures, which required strict attention at the sorting table.

2007 — The 2007 reds are considered quite good, thanks to the upfront fruit qualities that came from the warmer summer tempera- tures. Nevertheless, the fruit flavors are not as overt or forward as what wineries obtained in the southern Rhone. But thanks to the traditional acidity from growing fruit in the cooler northern climes, there is freshness and vibrancy to the palate.

2006 — Cooler temperatures resulted in wines that are not as showy. The reds from 2006 are better suited for the cellar and will be a source of understated and classically structured wines.

2005 — Ranks up there with some of the best vintages of the new century with loads of concentrated fruit and acidity along with substantial tannins. These wines will cellar well and the structural nature of this harvest means they will be firm wines with good backbone.

15 VINTAGES 2001-2010 continued

2004 — As in the south, the moderate conditions created classic, balanced wines in both the north and south. Not showy or overt, these wines will reward short term cellaring and are perfect for those who want to avoid the riper expressions that result from warm- er growing conditions.

2003 — The reputation of 2003 is closely tied to the extreme heat that caused difficult growing conditions throughout the country, as well as a number of deaths across . The drought-resistant Rhone varietals fared best since their deep roots provided access to water, while the north's cooler temperatures provided grapes with the acidity necessary to make lively wines that avoided over- ripeness. These are powerful and concentrated wines that will age.

2002 — Another year where poor weather in the southern Rhone affected the market's perception of the entire Rhone Valley… except the north did not get the torrential rains and flooding which ruined the harvest in areas like Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape. Most regions in the north saw less rainfall than the south and good drainage ensured there were few washouts. The mistral winds came after the rains but rot and mildew persisted, causing many growers to pick early.

2001 — Generally considered one of the best vintages of the decade, 2001 gets lost in the shuffle a bit today, thanks to the acclaim generated by the 2005 and 2009 wines. The temperatures were generally cool, allowing for a slower growing season, which in turn preserved the wines‟ structural components and reduced the impression of fat fruitiness. It also secured acidity and maintained fresh- ness in the final wines. The best examples should just be waking from their slumber.

16 THE NEGOCIANTS Promoting This Business Called Wine

In fact, many small growers with tiny plots of land had little rea- son to make their own wine. But thanks to their access, negoci- ants could step in and provide those farmers with a consistent market for their fruit. Firms like Guigal, Chapoutier, Delas and Jaboulet have rich histories that go back decades, having earned international reputations based on the production of exquisite wines from the sites in Hermitage and Cote Rotie, as well as clas- sic interpretations of other appellations. As years passed and business prospered, they were able to expand their vineyard holdings to the point that the top negociants now own significant portions of the best vineyards in the northern Rhone. In sharp contrast to the southern Rhone, much of today‟s wine production in the northern Rhone is dominated by negociants.

The success of the negociants in the northern Rhone has also created quite a dilemma. As business prospered, it became quite difficult to expand local production in appellations of very lim- ited size and production capability. At the same time, most of the Wine is born from a nexus between the art and science of market has been demanding affordable southern Rhones, which grape growing and winemaking. Considering the romantic have captured the fancy of consumers and the trade. Conse- notion many people build around the small artisan winemak- quently, many negociants filled out their portfolios with wines er—closer to his land and cellar—the idea follows that his from Gigondas or Chateauneuf du Pape as well as more generic wines must be better than what is made by larger wineries, Cotes du Rhones, largely made from contracted fruit and often assumed to be further away from the dirt and less involved. crushed and fermented in the south and trucked up north at a Negociants, who purchase grapes or wine to be blended at later date. The expansion to the south has provided negociants their cellars, are often viewed more skeptically, especially by with increased exposure and sales, much of which has been those who believe that blending hides the individual nuances spent to expand vineyard holdings in the north. that would be highlighted if the grower made his own wine. Now the negociant model is being adopted by medium-sized While the quaint image of the "little old winemaker" still per- wineries, as well as a new breed of entrepreneurs. Growers like sists, it‟s important to remember that the wine industry is a Yves Cuilleron, Jean Louis Chave, and Pierre Gaillard have re- business and it costs money to grow grapes, make wine and cently started their own negociant businesses focusing on vine- take it to market. The negociant performs an important func- yards from the northern Rhone. Newer enterprises that have tion in the wine world, as not all growers have the technical been initiated by folks from outside the Rhone Valley, such as ability to make wine and/or the financial resources to sell it. Eric Texier and Patrick Le Sec, are bringing innovative ideas on When the demand for northern Rhone wines was limited to winemaking and marketing to the region. They seem to prefer local markets, negociants had the ability to purchase grapes or portfolios that represent the entirety of the Rhone Valley. Never- wines from the many small domaines populating that section theless, thanks to the increasing popularity and demand for of the valley. Rhone wines overall, the trend throughout the north is an in- creasing number of growers forgoing the negociant model and bottling their own wines. We can expect that trend to continue.

17 THE NEGOCIANTS Chapoutier

However, Michel's greatest contribution to the northern Rhone is his focus on the small climats and lieu-dits that make up each ap- pellation. His laser-like focus on the subtle differences among the varying plots under his stewardship allows him to highlight the best qualities of each plot. Making individual wines that high- light the qualities of each climat is nothing radical, since it is, after all, the raison d'etre for the wines of Burgundy. But it is a relatively new concept in the northern Rhone, raising its head early on with Guigal's single vineyard Cote Roties.

Yet there are many, especially at Jean-Louis Chave, who believe the true expression of the appellation lies in the blending of dif- ferent parcels. In other words, the sum is greater than its parts. Debate away, but the trend seems to be heading towards Michel's approach and, indeed, will not be limited to Hermitage but will also play important roles in delineating the best areas of other appellations like St. Joseph and Crozes Hermitage.

For many years, most of the wines at Chapoutier have been Based in the small town of Tain at the foot of the Hermitage made at the cellars underneath their offices in Tain. With the hill, Chapoutier was founded in the early 1800s and the family Chapoutier firm expanding its reach to include projects in Rous- has owned significant portions of this famed vineyard for gen- sillon, Banyuls and the Ardeche, there was a need to centralize erations. The Chapoutier firm currently owns 35% of the total winemaking into one location. Accordingly, an ultramodern acreage/production of Hermitage. While the company has winery was recently constructed just outside the town. Painstak- always been rather successful, more acclaim has come to the ingly constructed, everything has been set up to take advantage firm recently thanks to Michel Chapoutier's improvements in of the latest technologies except that Michel has also gone back the vineyards and cellar as well as his endless promotional in time constructing a slew of concrete fermenters for many of efforts. the northern Rhone cuvées.

Of all the negociants in the northern Rhone, no one has burned While traditional ideas form the foundation of his winemaking the torch harder or done more to raise the profile of these ap- techniques, Michel is not afraid to adopt modern concepts. pellations than Michel Chapoutier. There can be no mistaking Destemming of fruit is a common practice for all his wines and what his drive and energy have done to bring attention to the new wood is used but in a judicious manner. Known in the past appellations in his portfolio. for making wines in a voluptuous style, Michel has reined in the fruit profile of his wines over the past decade. This is not to say Michel has also generated significant amounts of publicity for there is no fruit. Rather, the flavors are intense but precise and the use of biodynamic practices in his vineyards. Though more presented in an elegant manner. As befits Michel himself, these common in today's viticultural practices, he adopted these wines are more introspective, constantly revealing more person- methodologies at a time when few wineries did so. He‟s done ality as you progress through a bottle. much to educate consumers about his take on biodynamics and is probably indirectly responsible for getting many vine- The 2009s and barrel samples of the 2010s were extraordinary yards in America to investigate these techniques. wines that clearly showed the qualities of each terroir as well as the nature of the vintage. Having made wines that flirt with per- fection, it is scary to predict how Michel will top these exquisite wines. I only hope I get a chance to try them.

18 THE NEGOCIANTS Guigal

The "LaLas", as they are called in the biz, now represent the benchmark for Cote Rotie… with prices that match. However, they only gained their current popularity once all three wines were offered to the market and just as Robert Parker's promo- tion of Rhone wines was starting to gain significant momen- tum. As a result of the attention being paid to the appellation over the past few decades, plantings of Cote Rotie have more than doubled in the twenty years since "La Turque" first en- tered the market. And the Guigal family has done just as well, with holdings and leases allowing them to control 40% of the production of Cote Rotie.

As a house style, the Guigals are firm believers in oak, especial- ly for appellation or single plot cuvées. These wines can be aged in oak from 20-38 months depending on the vintage and Whereas most negociants have been based in the southern por- site. Generally, the retention of stalks is not done but when tions of the northern Rhone, Guigal is uniquely based in the they are ripe, whole bunches may be used in the top cuvées. town of Ampuis, the center of winemaking for Cote Rotie. And while negociants have stories that go back centuries, Guigal is While Guigal's contribution to improving the status of Cote fairly new. Etienne Guigal started his company after World War Rotie is significant, their negociant business has probably made II in 1946. the biggest impact on the wine scene. Like their neighbors, the Guigals were forced to look to the southern Rhone to expand Guigal's greatest contribution to the world of wine was the intro- their wine business and have done much to promote those ap- duction of his three single-vineyard Cote Roties. Interestingly, pellations. Their red and white Cotes du Rhones are best sellers the wines did not appear all at once. The "La Mouline" cuvée was and have done much to help Guigal expand their vineyard first introduced in 1966. Twelve years later, the first "La Lan- holdings in the north. donne" was made with “La Turque” coming out in 1985. Each is made differently and sourced from vines of varying age and contains between 0-11% viognier.

19 THE NEGOCIANTS Jaboulet

Like Chapoutier, the Jaboulets have one of the largest holdings of Hermitage, supplemented with a few lease arrangements. The La Chapelle cuvée is not the product of a single site but com- posed of grapes from several climats. Each year, the best lots are selected, with the lesser wines declassified into the new Petite Chapelle cuvée. Traditionally, the backbone of La Chapelle is fruit sourced from the lieu-dits of Meal, Bessards and Greffieux but the blends will vary from year to year. In this way, La Chapelle resembles more of the assemblage approach to making Hermitage as endorsed by Jean-Louis Chave rather than Cha- poutier's more detailed examinations of different .

While negociants have the image of somewhat faceless organiza- tions, one look at firms in the northern Rhone shows that strong personalities have driven these wineries to ever-higher peaks of commercial and critical success. Perhaps nowhere was this more The firm of Paul Jaboulet Aine is acclaimed for two reasons: the noticeable than at Jaboulet, as led by Gerard Jaboulet. At a time world famous Hermitage "La Chapelle" and the passionate when most negociants were indeed nondescript (before Robert Gerard Jaboulet. Founded in 1834, Jaboulet represented the Parker's influence came to the fore), it was Gerard's endless pro- northern Rhone across the world and throughout the latter part motion that singlehandedly raised the awareness of the Rhone of the 20th century. A measure of its historical presence in Amer- Valley. His legendary sales trips took him to all corners of the ica can be found on an old wine list from Antoine's in New Orle- globe, big and small, and he did much to educate and inspire ans which featured a 1929 La Chapelle for $3.00 back in 1940. both consumers and the trade. Unfortunately, Gerard passed away at the age of 55 leaving behind an impressive legacy but La Chapelle, a trademarked brand, is named after a small chapel also leaving Jaboulet without the inspirational leader who did as located in the climat of L'Hermite at the top of the Hermitage hill. much for the Rhone Valley as he did for the winery. The firm Owned by the Jaboulets for almost a century, it is said to have was recently purchased by the owners of Bordeaux's Chateau La been the home of a religious hermit who returned to the area Lagune and the next generation of Jaboulets will continue their after a medieval war and it remains the most visible landmark work in the vineyards and cellar. on the Hermitage hill.

20 THE NEGOCIANTS Delas

For many decades, the firm of Delas was probably on that list. Founded in 1835, the winery remained under family control until 1977 when it was sold to Deutz Champagne to avoid bankrupt- cy. For the subsequent two decades, the winery languished as vineyards were parceled off and cellar maintenance deferred. More importantly, the wine quality was decidedly subpar and sales suffered. Deutz was then sold to Louis Roederer, who also inherited the Delas brand, which included extensive holdings in Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage, a cellar in St. Joseph and nu- merous contracts with top growers throughout the north.

Rather than throw the baby out with the bathwater, Roederer committed to raising the standards at Delas and made significant investments in the winery and personnel. The company first hired Jacques Grange, who had worked at Chapoutier and Jean Luc Colombo, and he set about cleaning the winery and renew- ing the cellar with new wood barrels and casks. The vineyards were freshened up and Jacques began visiting contract growers Over the past decades, the number of negociants in the northern on a regular basis to ensure the quality of purchased fruit. Rhone has slowly dropped. Well-known firms like Vidal-Fleury Thanks to Roederer's commitment, both wine quality as well as (purchased by Guigal in 1984) and lesser known ones like Revol critical and popular opinion have seen a marked upturn since have disappeared for various reasons. Whether purchased for the turn of this century. Rather than the muddled and diffused their vineyard holdings or collapsed due to the success of other results from a few decades ago, the wines are now fresher and firms, recent trends suggest it could be difficult for some smaller more vibrant thanks to the refurbished winery and the hands-on negociant firms to succeed. vineyard management. Indeed, the future looks bright at Delas.

21 TASTING NOTES

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER

2010 St. Joseph Blanc 2010 Ermitage Blanc "L'Ermite" 100% marsanne. Yellow-gold color. A fragrant and persistently 100% marsanne. Barrel sample. As expected with this cuvée, this pure lemon expression emerges on the nose. The vibrant fruit is classic vin de garde style. The complex aromas are reserved and flavors are focused and just starting to put on weight, as lemon hard to suss out at first but hints of spearmint and honey slowly appears again with unripe pineapple, while the finish lingers evolve and appear. The spearmint note pops up again as part of with a hint of bitterness. Very complete, this will get more so a tight palate presence that is not as showy as the "Clos de with a few more years. Drink in 6-8 years for its peak expression. l'Oree". This cuvée is, nevertheless, more packed with flavor and 92-93 points—Chuck Hayward maintains incredible length. This sample is all about conjecture at this point but history shows that this will blossom over the next 3-5 years and will provide peak experiences for a few dec- 2010 Hermitage Blanc "Chante Aloutte" ades. 93-95 points—Chuck Hayward 100% marsanne. Barrel sample. Thanks to the long, cool growing season, this is a fresh and precise version when compared to the 2008. Crisp and youthful, reserved acids at this stage allow for 2010 Crozes Hermitage "Meyzonnaires" more textured fruit to appear. Light notes of melon and lemon verbena gain richness and texture towards the backpalate. Very 100% syrah. Beautiful aromas highlight syrah's spicier aspects as approachable at this point. 94-96 points—Chuck Hayward black peppercorn, green herbs and pepper show off the bou- quet's high-toned qualities. The fruit flavors are clean and bright with pinpoint precision, thanks to the vibrant yet integrated 2010 Ermitage Blanc "Le Meal" acidity. Finely grained tannins lay the foundation for a spicy 100% marsanne. A barrel sample. Aromatically unique, the nose finish that leaves one salivating for more. 92-94 points—Chuck initially shows a wild/feral nose of yeast and earth that later Hayward morphs into scents of meat and ham and finally reveals seductive (and more expected) lemon cream. The medium weighted palate 2010 Ermitage "Pavillon" currently showcases a modicum of texture with concentrated fruit in reserve in the backpalate. The finish is youthfully short 100% syrah. Opaque in color. This classical rendition of the ap- with the slightest hint of bitterness. Tasted twice with consistent pellation is a bit closed and reticent in the nose, though some notes. 92-94 points—Chuck Hayward mineral and black pepper peak out with swirling. As expected, the palate is narrowly framed at this point with a linear profile of precise dark fruit flavors that lead into finely grained mineral 2010 Ermitage Blanc "de l'Oree" components. The acidity is perfectly woven into the palate and 100% marsanne. Barrel sample. The perfect expression of this plays an integral part in the very long finish. 94-96 points— cuvée's typical power and body when compared to its siblings. Chuck Hayward Lighter in color than Le Meal, pristine, high-toned aromas high- light a purity of citrus and tropical scents. The palate shows a richer, textural facet with medium-plus weight that avoids an overripe, fat presence. Despite the richness, the clarity and preci- sion of the fruit here is exciting as the tropical fruit notes gain concentration and tumble towards a finish of lingering flavors and the bitterness noted in Le Meal. 94-96 points—Chuck Hay- ward

22 TASTING NOTES

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER

2009 St. Joseph Blanc "Granit" 2009 Ermitage "Greffieux" A barrel sample of 100% marsanne tasted 3 months before its 100% syrah. From a parcel at the foot of the hill. Opaque purple- release. Straw-gold in color, the aromas of tropical fruit and fruit black at the core with a thin, vibrant purple rim. This barrel sam- cocktail syrup are forward, showing an exotic quality. Almost ple came from a new barrel so that oak dominates the nose with full-bodied in weight, the exotic qualities from the bouquet also seductive vanilla aromas. The firm tannins on the finish com- pop up on the palate but woven around a spine of minerals and mand the palate at this point but there is some underlying fruit a talc-like note that make for an elegant finish. Lingers consider- that is quite powerful and just starting to make its presence ably. 2-3 years will allow this wine to blossom even more. 94-96 known. The tannins form the spine of the long finish that is sup- points—Chuck Hayward ported by balanced acids and dark fruit flavors. You will be re- warded in 8-10 years with a stunning wine. 95-96 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Ermitage Blanc "Le Meal"

100% marsanne. Yellow-gold color. More reserved compared with the St. Joseph, but still offering appealing aromas of ginger, 2009 Ermitage "le Pavillon" nutmeg and Thompson seedless grapes. Later, the bouquet gains 100% syrah. From the Bessards climat further up the slope com- more interest as scents of sponge cake and confectionary sugar pared with the Greffieux. A barrel sample with an opaque core appear. Even with hints of ripe fruit on the palate, the textures and a thin, purple rim, there is much more power and concentra- are reined in at this point as the pronounced minerality persists tion found here. The purity of fruit is sensational and almost on the lengthy and dry finish. A few years will show the latent otherworldly. Although extracted and showing a hint of over- fruit and it should be peaking in 6-8 years. 94-96 points—Chuck ripeness, the blackberry and vanilla flavors are clear, clean and Hayward precise. But the finely sculpted minerals, tannins and acidity take this to another level and add an exhilarating sense of vibrancy to each of the wine's components. Once this matures and the vari- 2009 Ermitage Blanc "de l'Oree" ous parts meld together, this wine will transport you. 97-98 100% marsanne. A straw-yellow color. The medium-weighted points—Chuck Hayward fruit is densely packed with perfectly poised flavors that are fo- cused and precise. Dry pear flavors dominate here along with exotic tropical notes that pick up intensity on the backpalate. 2009 Ermitage "Le Meal" There is another dimension to this cuvée despite its comparative- 100% syrah. A barrel sample. Beautifully integrated oak and ly restrained presence that demands 2-3 years. Look for peak fruit present a seamlessly complex and ever-changing bouquet. drinking in 8-10 years. 94-96 points—Chuck Hayward The expressive purity of fruit so evident in the nose carries through to the palate, where there is great richness and power here but still a light presence, thanks to refreshing acidity and 2009 Ermitage Blanc "L'Ermite" tension on the finish supplied by the minerals and finely 100% marsanne from the smallest of Chapoutier‟s holdings in grained. A baby right now, look for peak drinking in 10-12 years. this climat. The first impression is that this is simple and closed 97-98 points—Chuck Hayward in, but hints of florals, white stone and honeysuckle appear slow- ly. Although restrained at this point, it's clear to see this is quite balanced and put together. Not overtly fruity or tropical, you‟re 2009 Ermitage "L'Ermite" left instead with persistent and lingering flavors of mineral and 100% syrah from the climat of l'ermite. A barrel sample. The color stone fruit in a taut frame. The lasting sensation is of a wine with is translucent at the core with a pale, faded rose at the rim. More tightly wound up flavor just waiting to bust out. It will happen but patience is required. Just electric! Wait a few years knowing reserved and restrained on the nose, hints of vanilla-scented that it will be insanely good in twenty. 96-97 points—Chuck cherries slowly emerge. The palate, much like the bouquet, is closed yet offers much flavor in reserve with vibrant hints of Hayward violet and black cherry. The subtle finish is supported by very fine tannins, but this needs time. Will peak in 20-30 years. 97+ points—Chuck Hayward

23 TASTING NOTES

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER YANN CHAVE

2008 Hermitage Blanc "Chante Aloutte" Bernard Chave started this venture in 1970 with the purchase of 100% marsanne. Clear in color, the bouquet is reserved right 2 acres of vines in the Crozes Hermitage AOC. Now operated by now with lemon blossom and honeydew melon wafting out his son, Yann gave up a career in banking to return to winemak- slowly. The light-to-medium-bodied palate is subtle with a more ing, and the domaine has now expanded to include almost 40 delicate presence but is a touch simple and lacking much inter- acres of vines that are leased and under family ownership. The est. Perhaps it is closed and needs more time. There is a bit of wines are made with minimal handling, the must being punched telltale bitterness and spice underneath the fruit on the finish. down only twice during fermentation and with the grapes Tasted twice with consistent notes. 91 points—Chuck Hayward destemmed before crushing.

2008 Ermitage Blanc "Le Meal" 2009 Crozes Hermitage 100% marsanne. Barest yellow-straw color. This cuvée is also 100% syrah from the villages of Mercurol, La Roche de Glun and reserved and reticent on the nose with hints of fresh yet bitter Pont de l‟Isère. Only 20% of the wine sees wood in demi-muids lemon aromas. It shows its pedigree with clean fruit flavors of while the rest of the wine goes into stainless steel tanks. Good, lemon infused melons at the core of the palate, followed by sub- deep color with a thin, youthfully purple rim. Delicate aromas of tle earth notes along with a slightly bitter component on the fruit complement the subtle pepper and notes of spicy earth. lengthy finish. Like the Chante Aloutte, this cuvée seems a bit While not vibrant or structured, the richly textured fruit, thanks closed at this point. 92 points—Chuck Hayward to some low acidity, covers the textural tannins. Drink over the next 6-8 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "La Rouvre" Selected from 50-year-old syrah vines grown in the "Chassis" portion of the appellation. More deeply colored than the classic cuvée, the bouquet is closed and will need some time to open. Eventually, hints of black currant and pepper appear with air. The palate, however, is explosive as it offers up richly textured fruit flavors that are almost New World in style, while the back- palate has viscous, sur-maturite qualities that envelop very fine tannins that lie underneath the fruit. Best to drink this in the near term to enjoy its youthful fruit. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Hermitage 30-year-old vines from the lieu-dits of Beaume and Pelat and aged in 100% new demi-muids. The bouquet is initially reserved with the barest hint of herbs and spice appearing, though a bit of vigorous swirling reveals some complexity marked by aromas of marinated meat and black cherry. As might be expected from this appellation, the palate is balanced and shows restraint, along with a more compact palate profile. The tight core of fruit is sup- ported by significant yet finely grained tannins on the structured finish. Will need at least 2-3 years to show at its best, with ma- turity arriving in 10-12 years. 93+ points—Chuck Hayward

24 TASTING NOTES

JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE

The fortunes of the wine industry in the northern Rhone have 2008 Hermitage Blanc largely been shaped by the negociants who have dominated the 85% marsanne and 15% roussanne. Golden straw in color. The region's wine production and commerce for centuries. Many nose is quiet at this point, not revealing much until intriguing people, including the owners of these firms, would probably hints of honeydew melon, fresh walnut and flowers peek out agree that the soul of the region lies with the family of Jean Louis with air. Starting subtly as well, the elegantly structured palate Chave. The Chaves can trace their roots back to 1481 making this builds towards a slightly viscous core of fruit on the midpalate, one of the wine industry's oldest estates. For many connoisseurs leading to a richness of tropical flavors like banana and mango of the northern Rhone, the wines of Chave are the ne plus ultra presented gently and not overtly fat or overripe. The fruit flavors expression of their appellations. form the foundation of a delicate finish that lingers nicely. Will show better in a few years. The style here is one of elegance, not The foundation of the family's domaine lies in their extensive wearing an overbearing or extracted persona. 94 points—Chuck vineyard holdings on the hill of Hermitage amassed over many Hayward generations. Where many estates have small plots in a few of the appellation's climats, the Chave holdings are spread among nine 1994 Hermitage Blanc different sites and comprise over 10% of the appellation's acre- 85% marsanne and 15% roussanne. Remarkably youthful in ap- age. The family has always maintained a preference for blending, pearance, the color barely shows any hint of its age with a subtle releasing just one red and white cuvée that aim to capture the yellow/gold at the core. The bouquet is a touch reticent with essence of the Hermitage hill. The family also owns a small par- notes of pound cake, wax paper and honeycomb. There is still a cel of St. Joseph spread among four different communes. small core of primary fruit with honeyed, mature pear and dried apple flavors presented along with notes of almonds and brazil The domaine is now run by Jean Louis Chave who gradually nuts. Subtle and elegant as a whole, this still retains a youthful took over the reins from his father following his education at UC presence and the feeling that this wine could age another ten Davis. The reds have been made without stems for quite some years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward time and see very little new oak with each plot vinified and aged separately. The whites, however, see significant oak for both 2008 Hermitage fermentation and aging with up to a third new oak utilized. After 18 months, the various lots are blended together to craft 100% syrah. Darkly colored at the core with a fairly broad pink wines that take on an elegant rather than obvious presence. robe. Ever-changing aromas start off displaying subtle notes of fresh earth that move into pepper and spice. A pure core of fruit is compact and focused but vibrant and fresh thanks to the Chave, like many other small domaines of the north, also added wine's overall acidity. The finish lasts quite some time, showcas- a negociant business to his responsibilities. Beginning in 1995, ing peppery spice along with fine, spiky tannins. The style here, both reds and whites were produced and made from a combina- as with the white Hermitage, is one of elegance and grace, high- tion of declassified wines from the family domaine along with lighting the precise fruit flavors. Should be best in 6-8 years. 94 fruit and finished wines from other properties. This project fo- points—Chuck Hayward cuses solely on appellations of the northern Rhone. 1992 Hermitage 100% syrah. Faded purple/brown with an amber robe. The bou- quet exhibits secondary characteristics of sweet leather and Worcestershire sauce that is subtle yet intense. Later notes of beef marinade and tomato stew reveal themselves. Just a hint of youthful fruit at the core in the form of dried cherry surrounded by flavors of dried mushroom and soy. The backpalate is a bit dilute but the delicate flavors linger thanks to still vibrant acids, while spiky tannins can be found on the finish. Drink this soon. 94 points —Chuck Hayward

25 TASTING NOTES

CLUSEL-ROCH DOMAINE COMBIER

Now celebrating the recent arrival of Guillaume Clusel, who This estate specializes in wines from Crozes Hermitage, along represents the third generation of winegrowers entering into the with a small amount of St. Joseph. The property was originally fold, this Cote Rotie specialist began bottling its own wine in purchased in 1962 and used for mixed agricultural purposes, a 1969 from the family's small holdings. Over the years, the do- common practice at the time. In addition to growing grapes, the maine has expanded to 3.5 hectares with the centerpiece being a Combiers developed a reputation for growing top-quality peach- small plot of 75-year-old vines in the Grand Places lieu-dit near es and apricots. Starting in 1990, they stopped selling their fruit the village of Verenay. to the local co-op and developed their own brands for fruit, while bottling their own wines at the same time. The wines make use of 100% destemmed fruit, and the preferred style is one of 2009 Cote Rotie "Petite Feuille" balance and elegance. 100% syrah from younger vines. Barrel sample. The bouquet right now is closed and quite reserved but does reveal subtle aromas of grilled meat. The palate shows a purity of vibrant 2009 Crozes Hermitage fruit, along with finely textured structural elements. A very com- 100% syrah composed of fruit from the villages of Pont de l'Isere, plete wine that is not disjointed at all, the present tannins are Gervans and Serves sur Rhone. The bouquet is open and quite subsumed by the rich fruit on the finish. 92+ points—Chuck aromatic, just starting to reveal the attractive garrigue which Hayward defines the best examples of this appellation. With some air, hints of black pepper and green herbs appear. Medium bodied, this wine shows a definite ripe fruit character and thanks to no- 2009 Cote Rotie "Classique" table acidity, the wine avoids being overbearing. The lingering 96% syrah with 4% viognier, comprised of grapes from six differ- finish is a touch simple and dilute, though it's possible that some ent parcels. A youthful, vibrant color, this wine is not as open or time in bottle will bring out some richness out. Drink over the aromatic as most 09s. The palate is a bit unevolved at this point next 2-4 years to get the best that this wine has to offer. 91 but shows great clarity and precision, as well as more concentra- points—Chuck Hayward tion than the Petitie Feuille cuvée. Good length and a tannic fin- ish pops up at the end. 93 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Clos des Greves"

100% syrah from vines over 50 years old. The aromatics here are 2009 Cote Rotie "La Vialliere" quite reserved and do not offer a distinct voice as compared to A new cuvée. A touch lighter in color at the rim. This cuvée once the classic cuvée, and subtle notes of green herbs indicate a bit of again displays more aromatic power and complexity than the unripe character in the wine. The fruit on the palate is simple previous two, while showing off sweet fruit aromas, but still and straightforward, offering up a modicum of youthful, prima- remains closed and backward. The fruit textures are clean and ry fruit. A very young wine at this point, the lack of interest or bright, though they remain closed and reserved. This will need complexity prevents this bottling from achieving the next level. some time to unwind there are finely grained tannins supporting 88 points—Chuck Hayward the lingering finish. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Les Grandes Place" 100% syrah from 75-year-old vines. This cuvée is clearly a step up from the other bottlings—showing deeper color and more powerful and concentrated aromas. Its demeanor is a bit more New World than I prefer but it‟s pretty hard to resist the rich textures and the long, flavorful finish with indiscernible, ex- tremely fine tannins. This is clearly ready-to-go if you can't wait but there is lots in reserve and this will probably peak in 15 years or so. Wow! 96 points—Chuck Hayward

26 TASTING NOTES

YVES CUILLERON EMMANUEL DARNAUD

Yves Cuilleron is frequently the first name on people's lips when Emmanuel represents a new generation of growers in Crozes mentioning viognier and Condreiu, as his proficiency with the Hermitage. He started his career in 2001 with a small three-acre grape has propelled him to legendary status across the globe. An holding and today he can draw upon almost 30 acres of owned unlikely superstar in the Rhone , with his background in me- and leased vineyards, most located in the southern portion of the chanics and no interest in wine until his uncle decided to sell the appellation in the villages of Mercurol, Pont de l'Isere and Roche domaine in the family for three generations. After a year's study, de Glun. he took over winemaking duties in 1986. While renowned for his work with viognier, he quickly developed a reputation for his 2009 Crozes Hermitage that capture the expressions of each appellation in an ele- gant and focused fashion. 100% syrah. This cuvée finds complex aromas of black olive and pepper mingling with some

sauvage notes of garrigue and provencal herbs. 2010 Condrieu However, there is an unfortunate indication of 100% viognier. Hint of yellow gold color. Compared with other brett underneath the more attractive aromas. 2010s, this shows more forward, ripe aromas on the bouquet. Medium bodied with savory characteristics to The compact and linear palate highlights delicate flavors of stone add texture, the palate is not as intriguing as the fruits that are precise yet tightly wound with vibrant minerality. more attractive portions of the bouquet. The fin- The finish is firm and dry. A very promising future for this bar- ish is firm with drying, fine tannins. Drink soon rel sample. 92-94 points—Chuck Hayward before the brett gets out of hand. 89 points— Chuck Hayward 2009 St. Joseph "Les Pierres Seches" 100% syrah grown near the village of . The rim is a 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Les Trois Chenes" pale rose with the rest saturated deep garnet. The bouquet is 100% syrah obtained from 6-7 parcels and named after three oak closed at this point with hints of black pepper and subtle cherry trees found in one of Emmanuel's vineyards. Very dark in color notes emerging slowly. This wine leaves a warm impression and opaque through to the rim. The backward nose is closed and with medium-weighted dark berries flavoring the palate. Hew- barely aromatic although the barest hint of fruit and spice appear ing towards elegance as compared to power, the fruit on the after considerable aeration. The palate, however, is packed to the backpalate falls off just a touch. Should open up nicely in 6-8 rim with fruit that is quite youthful in flavor with juicy, palate- years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward coating soft textures that just avoid being too much. The excite- ment continues as finely structured tannins appear on the finish 2009 Cote Rotie "Bassenon" to support the dark flavored fruits. Aerate to bring the bouquet out for current consumption while drinking over the next 6-8 Composed of 90% syrah with the addition of 10% viognier from years to capture the youthful fruit flavors. 94 points—Chuck the Semons lieu-dit. Darkly colored center with a purple rim, the Hayward bouquet is very pretty with perfumed floral notes. This wine offers a sophisticated presence with focused flavors of black cherries dusted by bittersweet chocolate, although the backpalate 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Au Fil du Temps" is a touch diluted. The tannins are refined, providing a firm 100% syrah. Once again, the bouquet here is quite closed and foundation for the pretty fruit flavors. Wait a few years; maturity reticent but slowly reveals hints of pepper and grilled meat will come in 10-12. 94 points—Chuck Hayward along with exotic beef marinade qualities. The attack is fairly restrained but the mineral-laden fruit starts to unfurl towards a 2009 Cote Rotie "Madiniere" finish marked by fine tannins. This cuvée is currently quite re- strained and should be drunk in 2-3 years for its youthful quali- 100% syrah from a plot near the village of Ampuis. Barrel sam- ties or in 8-10 for more maturity. 92 points—Chuck Hayward ple. Lighter color. Nevertheless, there is more concentration and powerful aromas. This cuvée is the standout of this lineup with perfect poise and balance, a reserved sense of power and rich textures that don't go overboard. A young wine with lots of powerful dark fruit flavors, yet it is well integrated and shows lots of complexity. 93-95 points—Chuck Hayward

27 TASTING NOTES

DELAS

2010 Hermitage Blanc 2009 Condrieu "Clos Boucher" 100% marsanne. Barrel sample. Youthful and undeveloped at 100% viognier. About 600 cases at most are only made in the best this point, the new oak shines through on the nose. The palate is vintages. 70% of the juice was fermented in new oak. This cuvée tight and focused with clear and delineated flavors. Not much is a step up in complexity as compared to the "La Galopine" with breadth at this point, but it is easy to see the potential in this brighter acidity and more lifted aromas. Subtle talc-like textures tightly coiled wine. 94-96 points—Chuck Hayward lie underneath some concentrated flavors of ripe pears that show creamy textures. Another example of Delas' ability to show rich- ness without going overboard. Drink in the next 6-8 years. 94 2010 Cote Rotie "Taramond" points—Chuck Hayward 100% syrah. Barrel sample. Dark in color with barely any fading at the rim. The flavors here are vibrant and quite complete with a harmonious combination of fruit and acidity, creating a focused 2009 Cote Rotie frame which is supported by some very fine tannins. 93-95 100% syrah. A barrel sample. Opaque in color. Beguiling aromas points—Chuck Hayward reveal exotic spice, smoky bacon and mushroom with hints of pepper appearing with some air. On the palate, the broad texture shows mouthfilling flavors of dark fruits that are just beginning 2010 Cote Rotie "Landonne" to display exotic qualities. The wine then starts to tighten up 100% syrah from the La Landonne climat. First made in 1997, no towards the backpalate, contributing to a compact finish sup- more than 200 cases are produced when conditions dictate. Bar- ported by very fine tannins. This will evolve nicely over the next rel sample. Deeply colored. Complex, precise and intense aromas 10-15 years. 94-96 points—Chuck Hayward of provencal herbs and meat lead into complex and layered cas- sis laden fruit on the palate. The tannins here are finely grained and the finish is focused. 95-97 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Hermitage "Marquise de la Tourette" 100% syrah from the lieu-dits of L'Ermite, le Sabot, and Les Bes- 2009 Hermitage Blanc sards. Beautiful and seductive aromas of exotic spice and smoky 100% marsanne. A barrel sample. Forward and rich tropical aro- sandalwood on the bouquet are highlighted by the sophisticated mas dominate the nose with exotic notes of mango and banana. handling of oak. Mouthfilling textures are the rule here with ripe Round with more noticeable weight, compared to the finesse and fruit flavors that are both youthful and primary. The finish is a elegance of other Chapoutier examples, these are more powerful touch short—understandable given where this wine is currently and extracted. 94-96 points—Chuck Hayward situated—but will fill out and gain length in the next 2-3 years, then provide optimal drinking in 15-20 years. 96 points—Chuck

Hayward 2009 Condrieu "La Galopine"

100% viognier. A blend from three different climats: Vérin, Saint- Cyr-sur-Rhône and Chavanay. Deep straw color. Very aromatic, a melange of refined aromas are offered up in this cuvée—first notes of honeysuckle, unripe peach and wet stone that later re- veal exotic scents of green olive and wax paper. The midpalate is round and moderately generous in texture with a dry, refined finish that tails off softly. This will provide delicious drinking in 2-3 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

28 TASTING NOTES

BENJAMIN + DAVID DUCLAUX DOMAINE DES ENTREFAUX

Edmond Duclaux started bottling his own wines in 1979 based Located in the village of Mercurol, this domaine began bottling on holdings that the family began accumulating in 1928. In 2003, their own wines in 1979 after previously selling their grapes to Edmond turned over the domaine's operations to his two sons, the local cooperative. Francois Tardy represents the fourth gen- who quickly expanded their holdings to include 14 acres spread eration of growers who have worked these vineyards where a across six different lieu-dits. The brothers continue Edmond's small amount of marsanne and roussanne is also grown for the preference for destemmed fruit before fermentation and the use Crozes Hermitage blanc. This domaine's classic Crozes Her- of about 40% new oak in their aging regime. mitage has represented great value over the years and is made in a richer style with some good structure. 2009 Cote Rotie "Maison Rouge" 100% syrah from one site with south-facing exposure. Dark in 2009 Crozes Hermitage color, this is a concentrated yet balanced wine, clearly avoiding 100% syrah. The aromas here bring Hermitage to mind with the extremes in texture or ripeness. Deep flavors of black cherry are backward yet concentrated notes of earth and spice that lie atop laced with hints of iodine and weave together perfectly with subtle fruit. This wine offers up more structure and spine than sculpted minerals. The flavors and textures integrate seamlessly many of the fruit-centered styles found in Crozes Hermitage. towards a long finish. Focused in style, this will age well and be The combination of fruit and structure here is perfectly balanced a beauty in 8-10 years. Well done! 95 points—Chuck Hayward with an attractively ripe fruit component that adds succulence to the palate. Drinkable now, this will also provide pleasure over the next decade. 93 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Cote Rotie "Le Germine"

95% syrah along with 5% viognier. Darkly colored and opaque at the core. Quite backwards on the nose and palate at this point, 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Machonnieres" this does show hints of dark fruits and minerals. Very closed on 100% syrah. Darkly colored and opaque at the center, this cuvée the palate showing very little in terms of complexity or fruit shows Tardy's deft skills at balancing the ripe, pure fruits from presence. There is definitely a kernel of blackberry fruit but it's this vintage with just the right amount of sculptured backbone to expression is muted at this point. This score is based on its po- avoid a sense of overripeness. An underlying hint of minerality tential. 92 points—Chuck Hayward provides additional interest while the balanced and restrained finish is long with enough tannins to complement the fruit. Ap- proachable now, this excellent offering will be at its best in the next 6-8 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2008 Crozes Hermitage "Les Pends" 100% syrah from young vines planted on steep slopes close to the hill of Hermitage. Beautifully perfumed aromas of pure fruit emanate from this cuvée. Youthfulness arises from the vibrant and roundly textured dark fruit flavors, somewhat primary at this stage but also showing indications of increasing complexity as it stays in the glass. The finish is long with subtle tannins en- veloped by the sweet, almost viscous fruit. Will be best when the wine sheds its youthful puppy fat and the wine‟s latent structure should start to appear in the next 3-4 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

29 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE PHILIPPE FAURY PIERRE GAILLARD

Lauded and known for their old-vine St. Joseph cuvée, this small Compared to its neighbors, this winery's style is quite unique. domaine offers a broad range of wines from the northern Rhone, The wines are larger than life with a forthright presence, much including wines from Condrieu and Cote Rotie. Like many other like Pierre Gaillard himself. He started off working in the cellars estates in the region, the Faury family mingled with of Guigal and left to begin making wine from his small holdings other farming activities such as growing cherries and peaches. in St. Joseph. Over the years he has expanded his domaine to But unlike the norm, the family sold their wines directly instead include most of the northern appellations as well as releasing of through the local co-op. small bottlings of individual lieu-dits from regions like Cote Ro- tie. Producing about 10,000 cases from his properties in the northern Rhone, Pierre has expanded his portfolio to make wine The grapes are usually destemmed with about 20-40% whole from southern French AOCs such as Banyuls and Faugeres. bunches utilized, depending on the cuvée and the conditions of the harvest. A combination of new and old barrels are used for aging in sizes ranging from demi-muids to barriques. Buyers of Gaillard's wines in the United States should be aware that their importer, North Berkeley Imports, often bring in wines that differ slightly in style and nomenclature from the bottlings It should be noted that Kermit Lynch, the winery's US importer, released in France. does not use the proprietary names listed in the tasting notes below and the label designs are considerably different as well. 2009 Crozes Hermitage 2009 St. Joseph "La Gloriette" 100% syrah from 30-year-old vines. Opaque in color with a pur- ple-black tone. The style of this richly concentrated wine comes Comprised of 100% syrah from 40-60 year old vines. Very attrac- through loud and clear on the nose as ripe and concentrated tive and subtle aromas are just starting to gain complexity with fruits leap out of the bowl. They are complemented by a thick hints of pepper appearing above the vibrant black cherry. This and viscous presence on the palate that avoids being cloying medium-weighted wine is balanced with everything in all the thanks to appropriate acidity. A big wine, the extract and intensi- right places. The finish is long and lingering, thanks to the per- ty are clearly stated. While there's no finesse or complexity here, fect amount of acidity, though the tannins are a touch bitter. 91 it‟s a great drink. 93 points—Chuck Hayward points—Chuck Hayward

2009 St. Joseph 2009 Cote Rotie "Reminiscence" 100% syrah. This selection comes across as a more refined and 90% syrah, 10% viognier. Dark and opaque at the core with a sophisticated example of the northern Rhone. The aromas are youthful pink rim. The bouquet for this release is just beginning more open, complex and even though the color seems a bit light- to reveal itself with savory aromas of spicy sausage and roasted er, the fruit flavors are straightforward and uncomplicated yet meat. Medium weighted in body and texture, the palate shows a still maintain the exotic attributes of the appellation. A round, bright, clean core of fruit that continues on towards a lingering textured presence on the midpalate is thick but enlivened by finish. The fruit there fades a bit too soon as finely grained, well-placed acidity. Should provide great drinking over the next slightly bitter tannins complete the experience. 91+ points— 10-12 years. Way to go! 94 points—Chuck Hayward Chuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Rose Pourpre" 100% syrah from schist-laden soils in the Cote Rozier climat. Darkly colored and opaque at the core, the bouquet is restrained and backward with just a hint of spice and ripe fruit compo- nents. Despite its immediate appeal—thanks to its generous fruit—one has to wonder where this very modern interpretation of Cote Rotie is heading. The intense flavors have a bit of a roast- ed/dried fruit quality and the finish is supported by strongly flavored, smoky tannins. Drinkable now, this will probably be better in the short term. 92+ points—Chuck Hayward

30 TASTING NOTES

ALAIN GRAILLOT DOMAINE JAMET

Alain Graillot could easily be considered the king of Crozes Her- This domaine is relatively young by most standards. Joseph mitage in the United States. A very young estate—founded in Jamet purchased his first small plot of vines in 1950 on the Cote 1985—Graillot's wines had an immediate impact on the Ameri- Brune slope, but it was not until 1976 that he bottled his first can market and its commercial success helped to define the mod- wines. His two sons took over the domaine and have expanded ern style of Crozes Hermitage in the eyes of consumers and the their holdings from less than a half an hectare to over 8 hectares. trade. Alain has fairly extensive holdings that include 50 acres of 30-year-old syrah, plus some small plots in St. Joseph. However, The wines of Jamet follow a model that is quite similar to Jean- after this distinguished career, Alain has retired and his son, Louis Chave. Rather than produce a myriad of single site cuvées, Maxime Graillot assumed full winemaking responsibilities in the brothers prefer to make one assemblage blend that utilizes the 2010. Under the new regime, the wines have become more re- best of their extensive vineyard holdings. They currently own fined even as Maxime chose to destem his fruit where his father small plots in over 15 different climats in Cote Rotie, a broad did not. range of sites that few other grower-domaines can match. In con- trast to their "generic" Cote Rotie release, the Jamets also make a 2009 Crozes Hermitage small amount of wine from the climat of Cote Brune of which 2/3 100% syrah. Vibrantly youthful in color with an opaque core. is based on 70+ year old vines and come from the family's origi- The aromatic bouquet offers up an ever-changing array of spice nal holdings. and fruit, emphasizing the garrigue and provencal herbs notes that highlight the best examples from this AOC. The intense fla- 2010 Cote Rotie vors are youthful and primary with a refreshing vibrancy, 100% syrah from a barrel sample. Very closed nose and quite thanks to refreshing acidity that lightens up the finish, along unevolved at this point. The palate is showing youthful and pri- with a fair amount of talc-like tannin as well. Hard to resist now, mary fruit flavors with rich thick textures. 92-93 points—Chuck this should probably be drunk in the next 6-8 years to enjoy the Hayward delicious, juicy fruit components. 93+ points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Guiraude" 100% syrah. Opaque in color, the nose is quite reserved and not 100% syrah from a selection of the better barrels in the cellar. showing much at this point. The palate, however, shows another Interestingly, the color here is more translucent and less intense aspect with very juicy and youthful fruit flavors dominating the than the classic cuvée. The more delicate hue follows through midpalate. Despite the primary nature of the flavors, a bit of onto the bouquet and palate, where a modicum of restraint is concentration would be great as the core is a touch dilute and apparent. Here the acidity is tempered and the palate framework simple. In addition, rather than lingering, the finish fades rather more tapered while the deeply fruited palate is pure and focused quickly, though the tannins are in balance with the rest of the with a long finish and very delicate tannins. This will show bet- wine. 91+ points—Chuck Hayward ter in a few years and be at its best in 8-10 years. 93+ points— Chuck Hayward

31 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE JASMIN MICHEL + STEPHANE OGIER

Proprietor Patrick Jasmin represents the fourth generation to Prior to the founding of this winery in 1980, Michel Ogier's own this domain, renowned for their precise and elegantly grapes were sold to the Guigals. Today, the vineyards of this styled Cote Rotie. Jasmin has holdings in the Cote Blonde and father and son team are spread across a number of appellations Cote Baudin lieu-dits as well as Beleyat and Tupin, all of which with the focus on their six acres in Cote Rotie. Stephane has re- are vinified separately but blended together to produce just one cently introduced two new cuvées composed of individual plots wine. The syrah at Jasmin is 100% destemmed with fermentation in Cote Rotie. Winemaking here has been very traditional but in cement cuves with aging in an assorted array of Burgunduian Stephane destems grape bunches when warranted. barrels and demi-muids. 2009 Cote Rotie 100% syrah with 70% from the Cote Blonde and 30% from the 2009 Cote Rotie Cote Brune. This uniquely styled wine highlights feral, wild 95% syrah with 5% co-fermented viognier. Vibrant and deeply notes of sausage mingling with spice notes of sage and tarragon. colored with an opaque core. Despite the closed and reserved Medium bodied with refreshing acidity, the sauvage flavors are nature of the bouquet, the aromas of cassis infused fruit are pure connected with the bouquet of this youthful wine. A powerful or and bright with spice and bay leaf scents. Medium-plus in intense statement is not being made here. This balanced and weight and body. The palate is clean and focused, showing just somewhat understated syrah is quite stylized and finishes up enough acid to propel the midpalate fruit towards the finish with very fine tannins. A few years are needed for the best near where there is a substantial amount of fine tannins. This wine is term drinking. 94 points—Chuck Hayward just beginning to unwind. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE MICELAS

2009 Hermitage The bouquet of this vintage is quite reserved up front, as subtle aromas of dark spice struggle to come through. Highlighted by a clean core of fruit, the palate is supported by acidity that keeps the flavors lively and vibrant. Nevertheless, this is still a tightly wound wine that displays a lighter fruit presence on the palate, still maintaining interest on the finish where finely textured tan- nins keep it taut and long. Aerate if drinking over the next few years, though it will be best in 8-10 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

32 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE REMIZIERES

This domaine follows the typical storyline of the northern Rhone 2009 Hermitage "Cuvée Emilie" in that it was a small property of about 10 acres that sold its fruit 100% syrah from 40-year-old vines. Amazing darkness of color to the local co-op winery and then began to bottle its own wine here. A pure and concentrated expression of fruit initially shows in 1973. Today there are almost 75 acres under the winery's con- the barest hint of spice and pepper, later displaying notes of trol. grilled meat. The fruit offers great purity and clarity with the juicy, primary qualities prevailing at this point but even more 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Cuvée Particulaire" exciting is the weightless, ethereal nature of the palate's power- ful flavors showing off ripeness without any dense, thick tex- 100% syrah from 45 year old grapes. Opaque, purple-black color. tures. There is great length to the finish with just the barest of This wine has a closed nose but shows hints of mineral and dark tannins to support the fruit. While this wine‟s immediate appeal spice. The attack is subtle, but the fruit intensity gains traction is hard to resist, there is great potential here and this can easily towards the backpalate where rich, ripe fruit flavors dominate last twenty years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward the palate. Thanks to well appointed acidity, the fruit presence is bright and lively, although it drops off a bit too quickly as firm tannins kick in on the short finish. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "Cuvée Christophe" 100% syrah completely aged in new barriques and sourced from 65-year-old vines from the village of Larnage. Almost black in color, the backward and reserved bouquet slowly reveals per- fumed scents of olive, sweet pears and currant jam. Nearing overripeness on the palate, the medium-plus weighted flavors are nevertheless vibrant and lively thanks to well-integrated acids. The fruit presence drops off a bit too quickly, leaving a slightly tart finish supported by textural tannins. Give this some air if drinking in the short term and know it will peak in 8-10 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 St. Joseph The 40-year-old fruit for this cuvée comes from vines located in St. Jean de Muzols, where the soil is granitic. Opaque in color, the aromas are distinctly different than expected with leafy, herbal notes atop subtle, cherry-laced fruit. This is a compact, restrained wine that displays the barest hint of sweet textural fruit. Pulled in a bit with a compact finish, the subtle compo- nents are integrated and lead to a finish that fades nicely. Not quite as expressive as others from St. Joseph. Drink over the next five years. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

33 TASTING NOTES

GILLES ROBIN

Gilles Robin's great-grandfather purchased about three acres of 2009 Hermitage land in the early 1920s to make wine for his own personal con- 100% syrah from the Pied Bresse lieu-dit. This is a new cuvée for sumption. In 1996, Gilles took over the estate, which now the winery and probably the most modern in style, as it displays amounts to some 35 acres and contains three plots in Crozes, a bit more ripeness and richness on the palate. Despite the con- along with a small parcel in St. Joseph. Rather than focus on sin- siderable fruit on the backpalate, there is a hint of the classic gle village or lieu-dits, Gilles thinks that blending the domain's Hermitage minerality on the nose which can also be found in the different parcels creates a superior wine. subtle, yet noticeable tannins on the finish. It would be best to wait a few years and this will provide enjoyment for the next 10- 2009 Crozes Hermitage "Alberic Bouvet" 12 years. 93+ points—Chuck Hayward 100% syrah comprised of fruit from the three plots owned by Robin. The enticing bouquet offers up a perfect combination of fruit and structure that is just gaining complexity with juicy blackberry aromas alongside subtle spice. Not backward at all, the wines expressive character shows through in the creamy, round presence on the midpalate that offers just a hint of re- straint towards the backpalate. The finish becomes more focused and fine tuned with subtle, fine-grained tannins at the end. Give a good decant to drink now or hold for 8-10 years. 93 points— Chuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "1920" 100% syrah named after the year the domaine was founded. This cuvée represents a selection of the best barrels in the cellar and is only made in selected vintages, the last one being 2005. Like the classic cuvée, this release shows a finely tuned balance between richer, approachable qualities measured with some restraint, except here the wine's lusciousness is pulled back a bit more. Nevertheless, there is power without exuberance with the wine relying more on fruit than structure. The bouquet is a touch more subdued than the palate, and the lingering finish fades gently and softly. This will be exciting in a few years. 95 points— Chuck Hayward

2009 St. Joseph "Andre Pealat" 100% syrah from vines that are 55 years old, planted in granitic soils. Only about 100 cases produced each year. One can see the house style shining through here with richly textured fruit com- bined with soft structure. Blackberry flavors mingle with black olive and hints of black pepper on the medium-weighted palate that finishes with talc-like tannins. Not as showstopping as the wines from Crozes Hermitage, best to drink this over the next 6- 8 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

34 TASTING NOTES

MARC SORRELL PHILIPPE VERZIER/CAVE DE CHANTE PERDRIX

This domaine was established in 1928 by Marc's grandfather. The Philippe Verzier‟s winemaking career began when at the age of estate's jewel is an old parcel of syrah from Le Meal, one of the 18, his father suffered a heart attack, causing Philippe to leave prized blocks on the hill of Hermitage. school and attend to the family's vineyards. Rather than sell grapes to the local co-op as his father had done for most of his life, he made the gutsy decision to make his own wine and sell it 2009 Hermitage Blanc to the market, all without any prior experience. Today, his wines 100% marsanne. 14% alcohol. Very clear and just starting to gain have garnered significant recognition and Philippe is now con- a hint of color. The heavily closed bouquet allows some exotic sidered an up-and-coming producer. Known mostly for their scents to barely peek through. Bright and clean on the palate, the wines from St. Joseph, the winery has recently expanded its delicate flavors are precise and focused. The flavors go on and holdings by adding plots of Condrieu and Cote Rotie. on with a subtle, earthy texture and a hint of bitterness on the finish. 93 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 St. Joseph "Empreinte"

100% syrah, this cuvée represents the

core of Verzier's production. Concen- 2009 Hermitage Blanc "Rocoules" trated and powerful aromas of rich 95% marsanne and 5% roussanne clocking in at 15% alcohol. meat and hints of pepper are forward From a single lieu-dit on the hill, the vines are 50 years old. The and enticing. The vibrant fruit is clean aromas here are much more complex and intense while main- and bright and has arrived at just the taining the same weight as the classic cuvée. On the palate, exot- perfect point of ripeness without going ic florals and banana wrap around a mineral core, focused and overboard. A very complete wine at pristine. This layered wine does not indicate its alcohol, and the this point, this is a great value. 92 dry finish fades gently. A year or two will help this wine show points—Chuck Hayward even better, and this will gather momentum over the next 6-8 years. Delicious. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 St. Joseph "La Madone" 2009 Hermitage 100% syrah from the oldest vines on the property with an aver- 100% syrah from 30-year-old vines planted in Plantiers and Gref- age age of 40 years. Opaque in color. Beautiful, rich fruit shows fieux lieu-dits. Just starting to become opaque at the core, this is more weight and texture than the "Empreinte" cuvée and dis- classic Hermitage. The bouquet is tight but infused with earthy plays a bit of a wild, sauvage character. Very approachable at this spice atop a small core of fruit. The palate is compact and bal- point, the appropriate acidity helps create freshness and vibran- anced with an elegant profile featuring tangy acidity that helps cy which are supported by some subtle and understated tannins. focus the finish, though a bit more concentration of fruit on the 94 points—Chuck Hayward backpalate and the finish would elevate the scores. Best drinking in 8-10 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward 2009 Cote Rotie "Indiscrete"

100% syrah from a site located near the village of Verenay. The first Cotie Rotie from this producer was the 2008 vintage. Not as 2009 Hermitage "Le Greal" complex aromatically right now and a bit more reserved, yet A blend of two top lieu-dits. The Le Meal portion is composed of there is a nice purity here. The attack is more subtle but gives 60-year-old syrah vines and is blended with 10% from the Les way to powerfully concentrated fruit at the backpalate envelop- Greffiaux lieu-dit. Beautifully perfumed aromas here eventually ing the tannins, which bodes well for some cellaring. A balanced show hints of black pepper with some aeration. The medium- and harmonious wine. Poured from a magnum. 93+ points— plus weighted fruit is perfectly balanced and contains just the Chuck Hayward right amount of acidity to contribute towards a lengthy finish supported by fine tannins. Still a baby at this point, a few years would be best for the near term, though ideal drinking will be over the next 10-12 years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

35 TASTING NOTES

LES VINS DE VIENNE

This unique venture is a joint project shared by three superstar 2009 St. Joseph "l'Arzelle" winemakers, Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard and François Vil- 100% syrah. Opaque and very dark in color. The nose is closed at lard. Their undertaking is finally starting to make waves over- first, though aeration slowly reveals subtle hints of pepper spice. seas despite the fact it began in 1996. Like many other northern There is richness here along with admirable concentration but it Rhone based negociants, this enterprise presents a broad cross never gets overbearing. The finish is very full and thickly tex- section of wines from appellations throughout the Rhone at a tured while being supported by granular tannins. This will be a wide variety of price points. fine drink over the next ten years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Les Essartailles" 100% syrah. Dark and opaque at the core. There is a sense of re- finement to this pretty bouquet that emphasizes subtlety over power, as hints of jammy fruit lead into more interesting scents of spice and meat. A bright, clean core of black cherry fruit is supported by a fair amount of fine tannins. This will need a few years for the packed-in fruit to unfurl and will provide optimal Though not reviewed below, the growers have embarked on an drinking in 8-10 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward effort to revive grapegrowing in an area on the eastern shores of the Rhone River. Most of the vineyards of the northern Rhone are planted along the western slopes and hills to maximize the 2009 Hermitage "Les Chirats de Saint-Christophe" ripening capabilities that come from extended sunlight. Plots on the east side of the river have a history of growing grapes back to 100% syrah. Dark center with a small magenta rim. The bouquet Roman times that was lost until the three vignerons did some is powerful, yet focused and narrow in profile, with pretty aro- research and set about reviving the area's viticultural heritage. mas of black cherry and spice. The terroir is also evident with a Today, the grapes grown in the commune of Seyssuel are attract- more reserved, elegant presence on the palate. The dark fruit ing much attention and are bottled as wines. flavors are bright and nicely integrated with acids and tannins to create a complete and harmonious presence. Approachable now,

wait 2-3 years if you prefer more youthful styles. 94 points— Chuck Hayward 2009 Crozes Hermitage 100% syrah. A classic nose that, although quite reserved at this point, highlights intriguing notes of grilled meat, rosemary and other provencal herbs. Darkly colored, the flavors of garrigue come through on the palate with a compact profile. Medium bodied, this finishes with some pretty firm tannins. Wait a few years for the fruit to blossom and marry with the structure, and look for peak maturity in 8-10 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "Les Palignons" 100% syrah. A fantastic bouquet offers up a pure, high-toned expression of fruit that is quite exciting. The alluring aromas follows onto the palate where the medium-weighted flavors are juicy and succulent. Not a heavy wine at all, the finish tapers nicely with soft tannins that show their present without being oppressive. Drink now and over the next 4-6 years to enjoy the fresh, vibrant fruit. 95 points—Chuck Hayward

36 Baskets and barrels at Chapoutier

Domaine Jasmin really delivers!

Erin Cannon-Chave pouring the latest JL Chave releases

A picture of Chuck taking a picture at Chapoutier Ornamentation on cement tanks

Mmm...foie gras! John Sweeney, Chuck Hayward & Shaun Bishop ready for Rhone 37 ABOUT THIS REPORT

Acknowledgments

This report could not have been put to- gether without the assistance of Paige About this report Granback and Farley Walker. Both of my co-workers worked diligently under The tasting notes published in this re- stressful deadlines to edit and lay out the port were assembled by Chuck Hayward content and tasting notes, and I cannot and are attributed accordingly. Wines offer enough thanks for their efforts. were tasted non-blind during private appointments at wineries, as well as I would like to thank JJ Buckley founders industry-organized tasting events in Shaun Bishop and Michael Stajer for their March 2011. support in taking some of our team to the to the Rhone, as well as the commitment The essays found here were written by of resources necessary to prepare and Chuck Hayward. complete this report.

I encourage everyone to check out all our other reports at jjbuckley.com/dl.

—Chuck Hayward

38