Buyingguide September 2018
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BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER 2018 THIS MONTH 2 COLLIO 21 ALTO ADIGE 23 VENETO 25 OTHER NORTHEAST ITALY 26 LOMBARDY 28 SICILY 32 OTHER ITALY 32 SPAIN 33 LOIRE VALLEY 37 BORDEAUX 44 RHÔNE VALLEY 49 OTHER FRANCE 50 AUSTRIA 60 GREECE 62 ISRAEL 65 ARGENTINA 69 CALIFORNIA 93 WASHINGTON 98 NEW YORK 101 SPIRITS 103 BEER Sunset view from a vineyard’s edge in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy. FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS MICHELE ZULIANI/ALAMY WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE Ronco Blanchis 2016 Friulano (Collio). This opens with subtle scents evoking yellow 91 wild flower and ripe orchard fruit. On the medium- bodied, elegant palate, hazelnut and tangerine zest add depth to a core of ripe yellow apple and Bartlett COLLIO pear. It closes on a graphite note. Arte Vino. —K.O. White wines with structure and finesse abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Fruscalzo 2016 Friulano (Collio). Hazelnut, he structured, elegant wines of Collio and crisp acidity. These wines typically carry honey, Spanish broom and yellow apple 90 prove that Italy can make serious whites. heady tones of pear, golden apple, yellow peach aromas carry on to the elegant, structured palate Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia and white pepper. along with a hint of pear and lemon zest. Fresh acid- region, Collio’s ideal growing conditions Pinot Grigio has been cultivated in the area ity brightens the rich flavors while bitter almond Tinclude hillside vineyards with sharp changes in since the mid-19th century and is the most and a hint of saline linger on the close. Zambuni Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. day and night temperatures that generate com- planted grape in the denomination. Many of abv: 13% Price: $19 plexity and depth of aromas. Soil is another key them have copper highlights, the natural color factor: Layers of marl and sand- of the juice after brief contact La Ponca 2016 Friulano (Collio). Entic- ing aromas of yellow spring flower, acacia stone—known locally as ponca— with the skins during pressing. 89 impart salinity and a mineral Collio’s ideal The region is also known honey and a whiff of citrus lead the nose. The hon- eyed note follow through to the palate, along with edge to the wines. for its savory Sauvignon. These growing conditions mature yellow apple and a hint of bitter almond. Both native and interna- include hillside structured wines carry loads of Tradizione Imports. —K.O. tional varieties excel in the area. vineyards with tomato vine, elderflower and abv: 14% Price: $18 Friulano is the most widely crushed herb tones over a core planted indigenous grape in the sharp changes of ripe peach. Eugenio Collavini 2016 Friulano (Collio). Yellow wild flower, crushed aromatic herb denomination. It boasts full- The area’s Pinot Bianco is 88 in day and night and yellow stone-fruit aromas mingle together. The bodied wines with flavors of temperatures. smooth, rounded and polished. bright, linear palate offers mature yellow apple, yellow apple, pear and almond, When aged in large barrels, they lemon rind and bitter almond set against fresh acid- with some producers fermenting gain further complexity. ity. Blue Ventures Wine Marketing. —K.O. and aging in wood for added complexity. Collio Chardonnays combine body, finesse abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Ribolla Gialla makes crisp, linear wines that and drinkability. They’re more structured than Fantinel 2016 Tenuta Sant’Helena Friulano offer yellow flower, stone fruit and citrus sen- options from other parts of northern Italy and (Collio). Aromas of yellow apple and toasted 88 sations. A few producers make more complex more elegant than those from warmer growing almond emerge from the glass. The aromas carry Ribolla thanks to extended skin contact. areas in the south. over to the straightforward palate along with white Malvasia, one of the least planted grapes, Have fun exploring the diversity of Collio! peach and rather firm acidity. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. makes savory, full-bodied wines with finesse Cheers! –Kerin O’Keefe abv: 13% Price: $23 La Rajade 2016 Friulano (Collio). Aromas of acacia and tangerine glide over to the dry 88 linear palate along with unsweetened lemon drop FRIULANO Castello di Spessa 2016 Friulano (Collio). and yellow apple. Fresh acidity keeps it light on its Apple and hazelnut aromas lift out of the glass feet and gives it a clean finish while a subtle note of 91 Borgo del Tiglio 2016 Ronco della Chiesa and carry over to the medium-bodied palate along white almond marks the close. Wine 4 All. —K.O. Friulano (Collio). Made entirely with Fri- with grapefruit and white-pepper notes. It’s elegant abv: 13% Price: $20 93 ulano, this elegant, structured white opens with and balanced, with fresh acidity. A tangy mineral aromas suggesting toasted nut, acacia and mature note enlivens the finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. Schiopetto 2016 Friulano (Collio). Aromas orchard fruit. The polished, vibrant palate delivers abv: 13.5% Price: $NA of mature apricot and dried sage emerge 88 ripe Golden Delicious apple, dried apricot, crushed from the glass. The forward palate offers ripe yellow herb and citrus zest set against a vein of energiz- Gradis’ciutta 2016 Friulano (Collio). For full peach and tropical fruit while a bitter almond note ing minerality. An almond note lingers on the finish. review see page 10. signals the close. Voliovino. —K.O. 91 Drink through 2025. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $70 Muzic 2016 Friulano (Collio). Mouthwater- Livon 2016 Maditocai Friulano (Collio). This Russiz Superiore 2016 Friulano (Collio). ing aromas of grilled herb, acacia, ripe yel- opens with aromas of French oak, citrus, 91 87 Aromas of ripe yellow stone fruit, graphite, low stone fruit and hazelnut waft out of the glass. crushed herb and yellow stone fruit. The palate offers 93 grapefruit and hazelnut follow over to the savory On the round enveloping palate, a honeyed mineral coconut, sage and mature yellow-apple skin along- medium-bodied palate along with a note of lemon note underscores yellow apple, apricot and almond. side a hint of lemon rind. A raw almond note gives it drop. Fresh acidity lends balance while a flinty note A note of unsweetened lemon drop lingers on the a somewhat bitter finish. Angelini Wine. —K.O. lingers on the close. It’s a fantastic expression of Fri- close. Wine Emporium. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55 ulano. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Continued on page 18 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2018 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Manager Alexander Peartree, Senior Tasting Coordinator Fiona Adams, Tasting Coordinator Carrie Dykes, Contributing Editors Mi- chael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSim- one, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; Wayfarer 2015 Wayfarer Vineyard Estate European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe Grown Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Even in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Con- 99 tributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in in its youth this wine packs a punch and delivers Venge 2015 DLCV Cabernet Sauvignon California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan unbelievable beauty, opening in aromas of per- (Oakville). Winemaker Kirk Venge makes in Washington. 96 If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s fume and game. Seductive, supple and spicy, it is this small-production offering as a memoriam to his initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- undoubtedly full figured and hauntingly complex, mother. Made in a robust, richly layered style, it’s lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more with layers of dark cherry, charcuterie, sea breeze thick and rich in waves of soy, meat and blackberry reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara and forest floor. The tannins are firm yet polished, jam on toast. The grippy, youthful tannins provide Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. intense yet behaved. The salty, briny, beguiling min- a firm structure, with finishing touches of coconut Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us erality is what lingers longest on the finish.Editors’ and milk chocolate. —V.B. by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $475 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 14.5% Price: $95 are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement.