2020 Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide
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BUYINGGUIDE MAY2020 THIS MONTH 2 NEW ZEALAND 25 CHILE 30 URUGUAY 33 OTHER SOUTH AMERICA 33 PORTUGAL 44 ALSACE 54 BORDEAUX 61 SOUTHERN FRANCE 71 TUSCANY 82 CALIFORNIA 113 WASHINGTON 116 SPIRITS 118 BEER Sunrise in the vineyard at Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS STEVE FLEMING/GETTY IMAGES FLEMING/GETTY STEVE WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE the fruit and spice. While just starting to show some age, this remains an austere but laser-focused wine that requires patience, but should reward in spades with time in cellar. Drink 2021–2035. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —C.P. NEW ZEALAND abv: 13.5% Price: $62 Explore the diversity of Kiwi reds Seresin 2014 Raupo Creek Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This single-vine- auvignon Blanc may be New Zealand’s warmer North Island, in the clay-dominant 94 yard wine from well respected biodynamic producer calling card, but a slew of red wines add to soils of Auckland, but primarily in Hawke’s Seresin (which has recently been majorly down- the diversity this pair of sea swept islands Bay, where the variety has a nearly 200-year sized, so relish these older vintages while they’re has to offer. history. There are several mineral driven, mus- still here) from the clay slopes of Marlborough’s SWhen it comes to Kiwi reds, Pinot Noir is cular, laser-focused Syrahs from the unique Omaka Valley, is hard not to fall head over heels for. It fills the nose with a perfume of ripe cher- king. The country has earned itself a formida- soils of the region’s most visible district, Gim- ries, florals, cocktails bitters and savory spices. ble reputation for mostly premium bottlings blett Gravels. But it shines most brightly on the palate, which is of the variety, which flourishes Varieties like Cabernet Sau- juicy, bright and harmonious, with precise tannins. at the bottom of North Island vignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc A tightrope walk between sweet and savory that in the Wairarapa region. There, Syrah has emerged and Malbec are longstanding makes another sip all too easy. Drink now–2028. The Sorting Table. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. the wines offer dense, dark and players in the North Island, as as a force to be abv: 13.5% Price: $80 tightly wound expressions. On reckoned with, well. They are often blended the South Island, Central Otago into Bordeaux-style red wines Two Paddocks 2018 Estate Vineyards Pinot particularly for Noir (Central Otago). This is a beautifully yields complex wines from vary- that show an intensity of flavor 94 ing subregions that express collectors and and a supple tannin structure. approachable yet complex wine from this boutique, biodynamically farmed estate, owned by actor Sam exotic spices, dried flowers and You can also look to lesser- those who favor Neill with a talented winemaking and viticulture an abundance of fruit. Other powerful, bold reds. known varieties like Gamay team spearheaded by Dean Shaw and Mike Wing, regions that produce the variety Noir to perform well in New respectively. The nose conjures images of cherry include Marlborough, Nelson, Zealand. One of the country’s pie cooling on a windowsill, a rosebush blooming North Canterbury and Waipara, which craft oldest producers, Te Mata, creates a vibrant, from the sun-warmed soil beneath. Savory, sappy tannins wind around silky, high-toned fruit in the softly spiced, fruit-led expressions. fruity, chillable version that is sure to please mouth. A tightrope walk of balance of power and Syrah has emerged as a force to be reckoned many Pinot lovers. elegance with crunchy acidity to break the fall. with, particularly for collectors and those who Elswhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll Drink now–2028. Negociants USA–Winebow. Edi- favor powerful, bold reds. While some elegant, find reviews from across the globe, including tors’ Choice. —C.P. cool climate expressions of Syrah pop up in the California, Italy, France and Portugal. abv: 13% Price: $56 South Island, the vast majority come from the Cheers! —Christina Pickard Two Paddocks 2017 The First Paddock Pro- prietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Central Otago). 94 From one of the original vineyards on the property (planted 1993), as the name suggests, this bot- tling needs some swirling in the glass or time in a PINOT NOIR subregion, is an expressive and highly pleasurable decanter. But like a locked box, once the lid is open, drop now, but, like all of his Pinots, also has cel- treasures await. And they’re all highly reflective of Seresin 2014 Sun & Moon Pinot Noir (Marl- laring potential. Billowing from the glass are plums, place. Rhubarb and cherry notes swirl with baking borough). The biodynamically farmed Sere- blueberries, violets and heaps of baking spice, then spice, dried flowers and an earthy, mushroom note, 95 sin was created in the ’90s by Hollywood filmmaker more savory, earthy notes of black olives, stones morphing over time into a fruitier, more vanilla Michael Seresin. The brand has gone through some and a slight sanguine character. The spiciness, from toned beauty. Silky texture, crystalline acidity big changes recently, namely a major downsize, both the fruit and the oak, is more prominent on and juicy fruit are wrapped in a swaddle of spicy, with wines now contract made. After some air, this the palate, but combine it with juicy fruit, pristine structured tannins. There’s oak influence, too, but whirls with red berry, orange bitters, rose petals and acidity and poised, laser-focused tannins and the it should melt seamlessly into the wine with a few sanguine, mineral nuances. More full structured result is a wine of depth and elegance that speaks of more years in bottle. Drink now–2030. Negociants when compared with the “Rachel,” there’s a beau- its place. Drink now–2028. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. USA–Winebow. —C.P. tiful through line of bright red fruit neatly wound Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 by savory, fine tannins. A precise, shimmering wine abv: 14% Price: $45 with years of life left in it. Drink now–2027. The Two Paddocks 2017 The Last Chance Propri- Sorting Table. —C.P. Rippon 2016 Mature Vine Lake Wanaka etor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Central Otago). 94 abv: 13.5% Price: $125 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). From one of New Actor Sam Neill’s Two Paddocks label is on a steep 94 Zealand’s most celebrated wineries, located on the upward trajectory: Vine age, impeccable farming Quartz Reef 2017 Bendigo Estate Single pristine shores of Lake Wanaka, this Pinot is made and a dream team inside and out of the winery are Vineyard Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This for the long haul. Brambly fruit and spice center on paying off. This premium Pinot is an intensely spicy, 94 vintage of renowned biodynamic winemaker Rudi an earthy, spicy core. Dense, nearly impenetrable on Bauer’s single-vineyard Pinot, from the Bendigo the palate, a powerful line of taut, fine tannins cinch Continued on page 18 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin Biondi-Santi 2012 Riserva (Brunello di O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng- Montalcino). This is the final Riserva to Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015 Pianrosso land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt 100 benefit from the late Franco Biondi Santi’s masterful (Brunello di Montalcino). Intense aromas of Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean 98 P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. hand. It boasts enticing scents of rose, underbrush, berry, iris, underbrush, botanical herb and camphor If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s red berry, new leather and crushed mint. The chis- shape the enticing nose. Firmly structured, the taut, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more eled palate features succulent Morello cherry, pome- full-bodied palate offers juicy black cherry, rasp- reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all granate, orange zest, star anise and a hint of tobacco, berry, licorice and tobacco set against tightly knit, tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. all framed in taut, polished tannins. Firm acidity fine-grained tannins. Drink 2025–2035. Indig- Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its lends youthful tension and keeps it impeccably bal- enous Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us anced. Drink 2024–2062. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cel- abv: 14.5% Price: $79 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices lar Selection. —K.O. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 13.5% Price: $689 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples.