BUYINGGUIDE MAY2020

THIS MONTH

2 NEW ZEALAND 25 CHILE 30 URUGUAY 33 OTHER SOUTH AMERICA 33 PORTUGAL 44 ALSACE 54 BORDEAUX 61 SOUTHERN FRANCE 71 TUSCANY 82 CALIFORNIA 113 WASHINGTON 116 SPIRITS 118 BEER

Sunrise in the at Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS STEVE FLEMING/GETTY IMAGES FLEMING/GETTY STEVE WINEMAG.COM | 1

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the fruit and . While just starting to show some age, this remains an austere but laser-focused that requires patience, but should reward in spades with time in cellar. Drink 2021–2035. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —C.P. NEW ZEALAND abv: 13.5% Price: $62 Explore the diversity of Kiwi reds Seresin 2014 Raupo Creek Single Vineyard (Marlborough). This single-vine- auvignon Blanc may be New Zealand’s warmer North Island, in the clay-dominant 94 yard wine from well respected biodynamic producer calling card, but a slew of red add to soils of Auckland, but primarily in Hawke’s Seresin (which has recently been majorly down- the diversity this pair of sea swept islands Bay, where the variety has a nearly 200-year sized, so relish these older while they’re has to offer. ­history. There are several mineral driven, mus- still here) from the clay slopes of Marlborough’s SWhen it comes to Kiwi reds, Pinot Noir is cular, laser-focused from the unique Omaka Valley, is hard not to fall head over heels for. It fills the nose with a perfume of ripe cher- king. The country has earned itself a formida- soils of the region’s most visible district, Gim- ries, florals, cocktails bitters and savory . ble reputation for mostly premium bottlings blett Gravels. But it shines most brightly on the palate, which is of the variety, which flourishes Varieties like Cabernet Sau- juicy, bright and harmonious, with precise tannins. at the bottom of North Island vignon, , A tightrope walk between sweet and savory that in the Wairarapa region. There, has emerged and are longstanding makes another sip all too easy. Drink now–2028. The Sorting Table. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. the wines offer dense, dark and players in the North Island, as as a force to be abv: 13.5% Price: $80 tightly wound expressions. On reckoned with, well. They are often blended the South Island, Central Otago particularly for into Bordeaux-style red wines Two Paddocks 2018 Estate Pinot yields complex wines from vary- that show an intensity of flavor 94 Noir (Central Otago). This is a beautifully ing subregions that express collectors and and a supple tannin structure. approachable yet complex wine from this boutique, biodynamically farmed estate, owned by actor Sam exotic spices, dried flowers and You can also look to lesser- those who favor Neill with a talented and an abundance of fruit. Other powerful, bold reds. known varieties like team spearheaded by Dean Shaw and Mike Wing, regions that produce the variety Noir to perform well in New respectively. The nose conjures images of cherry include Marlborough, Nelson, Zealand. One of the country’s pie cooling on a windowsill, a rosebush blooming North Canterbury and Waipara, which craft oldest producers, Te Mata, creates a vibrant, from the sun-warmed soil beneath. Savory, sappy tannins wind around silky, high-toned fruit in the softly spiced, fruit-led expressions. fruity, chillable version that is sure to please mouth. A tightrope walk of balance of power and Syrah has emerged as a force to be reckoned many Pinot lovers. elegance with crunchy acidity to break the fall. with, particularly for collectors and those who Elswhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll Drink now–2028. Negociants USA–Winebow. Edi- favor powerful, bold reds. While some elegant, find reviews from across the globe, including tors’ Choice. —C.P. cool climate expressions of Syrah pop up in the California, Italy, France and Portugal. abv: 13% Price: $56 South Island, the vast majority come from the Cheers! —Christina Pickard Two Paddocks 2017 The First Paddock Pro- 94 prietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Central Otago). From one of the original vineyards on the property (planted 1993), as the name suggests, this bot- tling needs some swirling in the glass or time in a PINOT NOIR subregion, is an expressive and highly pleasurable . But like a locked box, once the lid is open, drop now, but, like all of his Pinots, also has cel- treasures await. And they’re all highly reflective of Seresin 2014 Sun & Moon Pinot Noir (Marl- laring potential. Billowing from the glass are plums, place. Rhubarb and cherry notes swirl with baking 95 borough). The biodynamically farmed Sere- blueberries, violets and heaps of baking spice, then spice, dried flowers and an earthy, mushroom note, sin was created in the ’90s by Hollywood filmmaker more savory, earthy notes of black olives, stones morphing over time into a fruitier, more Michael Seresin. The brand has gone through some and a slight sanguine character. The spiciness, from toned beauty. Silky texture, crystalline acidity big changes recently, namely a major downsize, both the fruit and the , is more prominent on and juicy fruit are wrapped in a swaddle of spicy, with wines now contract made. After some air, this the palate, but combine it with juicy fruit, pristine structured tannins. There’s oak influence, too, but whirls with red berry, orange bitters, rose petals and acidity and poised, laser-focused tannins and the it should melt seamlessly into the wine with a few sanguine, mineral nuances. More full structured result is a wine of depth and elegance that speaks of more years in bottle. Drink now–2030. Negociants when compared with the “Rachel,” there’s a beau- its place. Drink now–2028. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. USA–Winebow. —C.P. tiful through line of bright red fruit neatly wound Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 by savory, fine tannins. A precise, shimmering wine abv: 14% Price: $45 with years of life left in it. Drink now–2027. The Two Paddocks 2017 The Last Chance Propri- Sorting Table. —C.P. Rippon 2016 Mature Vine Lake Wanaka 94 etor’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Central Otago). abv: 13.5% Price: $125 94 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). From one of New Actor Sam Neill’s Two Paddocks label is on a steep Zealand’s most celebrated , located on the upward trajectory: Vine age, impeccable farming Quartz Reef 2017 Bendigo Estate Single pristine shores of Lake Wanaka, this Pinot is made and a dream team inside and out of the are 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This for the long haul. Brambly fruit and spice center on paying off. This premium Pinot is an intensely spicy, of renowned biodynamic winemaker Rudi an earthy, spicy core. Dense, nearly impenetrable on Bauer’s single-vineyard Pinot, from the Bendigo the palate, a powerful line of taut, fine tannins cinch Continued on page 18

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander­ ­Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor ­Lauren ­Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams,­ Contributing­ Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina­ Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; ­Italian Editor Kerin Biondi-Santi 2012 Riserva (Brunello di O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne­­ Krebiehl­ in Eng- Montalcino). This is the final Riserva to Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015 Pianrosso land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt 100 Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean benefit from the late Franco Biondi Santi’s masterful 98 (Brunello di Montalcino). Intense aromas of P. Sullivan in ­Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. hand. It boasts enticing scents of rose, underbrush, berry, iris, underbrush, botanical and camphor If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s red berry, new leather and crushed mint. The chis- shape the enticing nose. Firmly structured, the taut, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more eled palate features succulent Morello cherry, pome- full-bodied palate offers juicy black cherry, rasp- reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all granate, orange , star and a hint of tobacco, berry, licorice and tobacco set against tightly knit, tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. all framed in taut, polished tannins. Firm acidity fine-grained tannins. Drink 2025–2035. Indig- Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its lends youthful tension and keeps it impeccably bal- enous Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us anced. Drink 2024–2062. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cel- abv: 14.5% Price: $79 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices lar Selection. —K.O. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 13.5% Price: $689 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Il Marroneto 2015 Madonna delle Grazie Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 100 (Brunello di Montalcino). Violet, iris, Conti Costanti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. often good value. warm spice, new leather, earth and wild berry are Fragrant and all about finesse, this gorgeous Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 98 critical circumstances. just some of the aromas you’ll find on this tantaliz- wine opens with enticing aromas of blue flower, for- Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 ingly fragrant, gorgeous red. Linear and elegant,­ the est floor, wild berry and a whiff of eucalyptus. It’s points) are not reviewed. radiant palate shows youthful tension, boasting red linear and elegant, delivering succulent red cherry, SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS cherry, , star anise, baking spice and pomegranate, star anise and tobacco alongside pol- Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- orange zest framed in tightly wound, polished tan- ished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it impeccably bal- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price nins and bright acidity. Drink 2025–2040. LLS– anced. Drink 2022–2030. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $150 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to abv: 14% Price: $300 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Fuligni 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Rose, accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our website. Marchesi 2016 Tignanello (Toscana). 98 violet, camphor, wild berry and aromatic This fragrant, savory red carries aromas of herb aromas are front and center in this gorgeous LABELS 99 Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given underbrush, plum, blue flower, cocoa and camphor red. It’s juicy, enveloping and delicious, doling out the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been on the nose. The polished palate boasts juicy Mar- succulent black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information asca cherry, ripe blackberry, licorice, tobacco and an and baking spice alongside velvety tannins. Thanks on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax appealing hint of game. Silky tannins and bright acid- to the estate’s vineyards north of Montalcino, it 866.896.8786; or email [email protected] ity keep it balanced and elegant. Drink 2021–2036. has freshness and mid-term staying power. Drink Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 2022–2030. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. winemag.com/ratings abv: 14% Price: $135 abv: 14.5% Price: $80

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Castelgiocondo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Guado al Tasso 2016 Bolgheri Superiore. A Le Chiuse 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro- 96 Aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, violet, 96 blend of , Merlot and 98 mas of woodland berry, new leather, blue underbrush and warm spice emerge in the glass, Cabernet Franc, this polished, savory red opens flower and a baby powder shape the enticing nose along with a whiff of camphor. Full bodied and with aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, cedar and on this fragrant red. Juicy and bright, the polished, enveloping, the structured palate delivers rasp- warm spice. Reflecting the nose, the linear, vibrant delicious palate doles out crushed raspberry, cherry berry jam, dried black cherry, licorice and tobacco palate delivers juicy blackberry, blueberry and lico- compote and baking spice alongside taut, refined alongside firm fine-grained tannins. It closes on rice. A hint of camphor unfolds before transitioning tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a an espresso note. Drink 2023–2030. Shaw-Ross into a close. Smooth, fine-grained tan- licorice note graces the finish. Frederick Wildman ­International Importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. nins provide the elegant backbone. Drink through & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75 2031. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $110 abv: 14.5% Price: $130

Marchesi Antinori 2016 Solaia (Toscana). 97 Aromas of cassis, warm spice and camphor Clarice 2018 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir form the nose. Made with 73% Cabernet Sauvi- 96 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Intense and Pence 2017 Unum Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. gnon, 20% and 7% Cabernet Franc, the pure aromas of dark boysenberry and black plum 96 Rita Hills). The nose of this bottling from vibrant, linear palate shows great finesse, offering are tightly wound and focused on the nose of this the estate’s first block ever planted is playful and cranberry, blueberry and crushed mint alongside bottling, with ample earthy funk to add intrigue. expressive, offering aromas of cranberry, raspberry, white pepper. It’s smooth and balanced, with bright Smooth yet structural tannins and lively acidity , juniper and Indian spice. The underripe acidity and polished tannins. The best is yet to come, enable the baked berry, light game, vanilla and bak- fruit tones explode on the palate alongside compel- so hold for more complexity. Drink 2023–2036. Ste. ing spice flavors to take center stage. Drink now– ling pine needle and wild herb qualities. —M.K. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 2038. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $330 abv: 14.4% Price: $85

Banfi 2016 Excelsus (Toscana). A blend of 96 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this red Pence 2016 Sebastiano Syrah (Sta. Rita has alluring aromas of botanical herb, woodland Clos du Val 2016 Hirondelle Vineyard Estate 96 Hills). Compellingly savory aromas of seared berry, blue flower and a whiff of warm spice. Full 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). lamb chops, cracked peppercorns and smoked game bodied and loaded with finesse, the smooth, deli- This rich red opens with dark chocolate and blue- pair with brisk red fruit. Crisp, tart fruits lead off cious palate doles out juicy raspberry, black cherry berry flavors that envelope the supple, lengthy the palate, then the layers of peppercorn, and jam, tobacco and licorice before a coffee-bean finish. tannins. Cedar, dried herb, and smoked meat sing on the dynamic, ­complex finish. Fresh acidity and a backbone of firm, fine-grained accent the dense fruit, finishing long and expres- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. tannins provide balance and structure. Drink 2022– sive. Enjoy 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $56 2036. Banfi Vintners.Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 abv: 14.5% Price: $90

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Trimbach 2017 Sélection de Vieilles Vignes Venge 2017 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet 96 (Alsace). Initial smoky notes of Padelletti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro- 95 Sauvignon­ (Calistoga). This is a 100% vari- reduction make way for a pervasive, subtle but lumi- 95 mas of wild berry, underbrush, dried etal and estate-farmed wine, unabashedly rich, ripe nous lemon freshness on the nose of this wine. The and leather shape the nose. It’s medium in body, and luxurious in approach. Spicy tar and leather lead palate shows exquisite concentration in lemon fresh- with tension and structure that support flavors of to an explosive midpalate of wild berry, cocoa pow- ness. It’s bone dry, vivid and fresh. Drink until 2045. pomegranate, red cherry, licorice and tobacco. It’s der and graphite, with a tight texture of firm tannins. Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. still young thanks to taut, refined tannins and fresh The opulence doesn’t detract from the structure. It abv: 13.5% Price: $36 acidity, but will blossom into a beauty. Drink 2023– will do well in the cellar; enjoy 2027–2035. ­Cellar 2035. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. Selection. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 14.8% Price: $115

Clarice 2018 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir 95 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). Dense aromas of boysenberry sauce, oak, licorice, roasted herbs and Paula Kornell 2017 Blanc de Noir Méthode Viña Don Melchor 2017 Puente Alto Vine- charred game bird show on the nose of this bottling 95 Champenoise (Napa Valley).­ Paula Kornell 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto). A by Siduri founder Adam Lee. Sandy, grippy tannins honors her family’s longtime roots in California full, spicy nose is packed to the brim with smoky, frame the sip, while anise and balance the with this tremendously delicious toasty oak and earthy black-fruit aromas. A ripe, boysenberry-pie backbone. —M.K. blend of 98% Pinot Noir and 2% . full and chewy palate is smooth in feel, while this abv: 14.1% Price: $85 Bright, bursting acidity gives it enduring lift in the classic Cabernet from Puente Alto in the Maipo Val- glass, highlighted by Meyer lemon, wet stone and ley of coffee, rich chocolate, toasty spices and sea breeze. This is a standout sparkler with length blackberry. A lush, bold finish runs long, indicating and complexity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. that this will age well. Hold through 2040. Fetzer abv: 12.5% Price: $50 Vineyards. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

Clos du Val 2016 Three Graces (Napa Valley). 95 A beautiful, balanced blend of 83% Caber- net Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 1% , all from the Stags Leap producer’s estate, this wine boasts inviting aromas of freshly turned earth, violet and cassis. Dusty rock and stone play Phillips Hill 2017 Day Ranch Pinot Noir on the palate around concentrated layers of black 95 (Anderson­ Valley). An enticing, gripping, fruit that transition to show black pepper and clove. chalk and mineral vein adds verve and complexity Banfi 2016 Summus (Toscana). Aromas of This will do well in the cellar; drink 2026–2031. to this quietly concentrated wine. It is medium to 94 dark skinned berry, cedar and cassis mingle Cellar Selection. —V.B. full in feel, layered with fine-grained tannins and with whiffs of violet and French oak. On the elegant, abv: 14.2% Price: $175 intricate nuances of cherry and raspberry, all sup- structured palate, tight, fine-grained tannins sup- ported by well-integrated oak spices and a subtle port flavors of black cherry, red currant, espresso tannin structure that will help it age. Best through and ­tobacco. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Banfi 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Vintners. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $47 abv: 14% Price: $80

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ONX 2017 Caliber (Templeton Gap District). 94 Blackberry, black cherry, caramel and mint make for an appealing nose on this blend of 59% Castello di Amorosa 2017 Morning Dew EnRoute 2017 Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Malbec and 10% Petit 94 Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Tempt- 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Licorice, black Verdot. It’s the palate where this wine takes off, ing fruit flavors run deep and long in this full-­ raspberry and blueberry highlight this densely showing blackberry, roasted coffee, wood spice and bodied, focused and concentrated wine made from packed wine. With notes of black olive and licorice, dried herbs. It’s rich and thick in texture, yet lifted a vineyard established by Burt Williams of Williams it ­retains a sparkling array of baking spice and cola by ample acidity. —M.K. Selyem. Black cherry and rhubarb ring clear as a flavors through the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $65 bell while subtle clove, and add abv: 14.5% Price: $85 complexity. A mouthfilling texture and lingering finish complete the picture. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $75

EnRoute 2017 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir Three Sticks 2017 Cuvée Eva Marie Pinot Noir 94 (Russian River Valley). From the spectacular 94 (Sonoma Mountain). This wine is made site along Westside Road, this red is smooth, herbal from select barrels from the producer’s own One Sky and earthy, with edges of rhubarb and orange. Inte- Vineyard, high above Sonoma Valley at an elevation Chimney Rock 2017 Elevage Estate Grown grated, complex and transfixing, it showcases bright of 1,400-feet. Intense and tannic, it unwinds slowly, 94 (Stags Leap District). Driven by 73% Mer- red cherry and strawberry against warm spice and revealing powerful flavors of ripe black cherry, cola lot, this blend also incorporates 16% Petit Verdot a hint of white pepper, finishing complete and and . Complex and focused, it finishes as and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. The resulting com- focused on a burst of acidity. —V.B. intensely as it starts, with a buzz of black tea. —V.B. bination is a whirlwind of iron, rock and intensely abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $90 concentrated, youthful tannins. It shows a subtle core of black currant and cherry. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

ONX 2017 Brash (Templeton Gap District). 94 Aromas of coffee and dark cocoa meet with loamy soil, blackberry jam and a hint of mint on the engaging nose of this blend of 65% , 24% Three Sticks 2017 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petite Sirah and 11% Mourvèdre. The palate’s fruit 94 ­Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made from the Croix 2017 Narrow Gauge Pinot Noir (Russian and coffee combination is intense and bolstered by iconic site, which is also owned by the producer, this 94 River Valley). From a mélange of vineyards, a savory bacon-fat flavor and solid acidity. —M.K. wine is richly layered and supremely structured in including Manzana, Calesa and Thomas Road, this abv: 15.4% Price: $48 a wealth of crunchy red fruit and cardamom spice. red is earthy in black tea and baking spice, with Tension reigns in the form of sharp, persistent acid- focused acidity and a stemmy freshness that pres- ity and bold, integrated tannins that add substance ents as both wild and incredibly appealing. Crisp and style. —V.B. rhubarb, red cherry and pomegranate are bold, abv: 14.4% Price: $70 burly and richly layered. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $65

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Calera 2017 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). This Venge 2017 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvignon 93 blend from sites across the Central Coast Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 94 (Napa Valley). This hearty wine is blended carries all the expert hallmarks of the brand, from 93 2016 Le Dix de Los Vascos Estate Grown Red with 4% Petit Verdot. Grippy, rich and viscous, it ripe fruit to earthy spice. Tightly wound aromas of (Colchagua Valley). Ripe, nicely oaked berry aromas has intense fruit flavors of plum and cassis, with pomegranate, berry, soil and star anise lead into a are well presented, while this Cabernet-led blend is supple, integrated tannins. The whole is a testa- crisp yet savory palate of raspberry and deep cherry. tight, pure and fresh in feel. Herbal berry and plum ment to good grapes and great winemaking, blend- Pinches of dried sage and thyme linger on the finish. flavors are layered with earth and spice notes, with ing together seven sites across the valley. Editors’ Editors’ Choice. —M.K. wood spice and a touch of chocolate rising up on Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 the finish. Drink through 2025. Taub Family Selec- abv: 14.8% Price: $60 tions. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $70

Yao Family Wines 2016 Yao Ming Family Chimney Rock 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet 94 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). 93 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). This is a EnRoute 2017 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Rus- A soft and sultry wine that’s blended with 3% Petit mineral-driven ­estate wine, blended with 23% 93 sian River Valley). This wine opens in pretty Verdot, this bold red was aged two years in entirely Merlot and 2% Petit­ Verdot. Iron, flint and rock aromas of rose petal and lavender, inviting one in new French oak. Soy, black fruit and leather make glide across a powerful, rich palate that bursts in with additional tones of dark cherry, raspberry and for an intensely flavored expression of powerful black fruit, toasted oak and dried­ herb. —V.B. black tea. Textured and robustly layered, it shows density and concentration, with supple, supportive abv: 14.8% Price: $100 components of dried herb, turned earth and clove tannins. —V.B. on the palate, finishing on supple tannins and mild abv: 15.4% Price: $225 oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Croma Vera 2017 Revelación (Paso Robles). 93 Aromas of plump black currant, pie crust, Brotte 2017 Les Hauts de Barville violet and wet loam strike the nose in a pleas- 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ Potent blackberry ant, measured manner upon opening this blend of EnRoute 2017 Northern Spy Vineyard Pinot and raspberry preserves are edged by a balsamic ­, , Cabernet Sauvignon­ and 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). Delicate notes glaze in this languid red. It’s a succulent, densely Petite Sirah. Intense tannins and persistent acid- of cranberry, rhubarb and orange peel are met by concentrated wine, but poised with fresh acidity ity frame the sip, where flavors of blackberry and a thick, grainy texture and powerful warm spice in and a nervy, mineral finish. The tannins are fine and crushed rock emerge. Drink 2022–2037. Cellar ­ this rich, full-bodied wine. Baking spice, cedar and quite glossy. Drink now–2027. Monsieur Touton Selection. —M.K. candied cherry round it out on the lengthy, concen- Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 trated finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $85

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ONX 2017 Fiery Nights Syrah (Templeton Gap 93 District). Aromas of blueberry and campfire Foley 2017 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir make for a rich and savory entry to the nose of this 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Strong, earthy tones of bottling. Full bodied and immensely flavorful on the wild sagebrush and cola spice decorate the black palate, it offers mocha, black cherry, cocoa butter cherry and plum aromas on the nose of this bot- and dried lavender elements, proving quite ripe but tling. Baked cherry and raspberry flavors pop on the elegant. —M.K. palate, where cardamom spice and earthy herbs add abv: 15.6% Price: $70 nuance. —M.K. Jax 2017 Estate Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.3% Price: $40 93 (Calistoga). Oaky vanilla and a firm, robust tannin profile mark the beginning of this wine, which evolves to show flavors of sweet tobacco, herb and ripe black fruit. Full in feel and concen- trated, it finishes in a flourish of . —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

ONX 2017 Mad Crush (Templeton Gap 93 District).­ Fresh on the nose, this blend of 35% Grenache, 29% Tempranillo, 24% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, 5% Zinfandel and 2% Petite Sirah offers aromas of plum and crushed red and purple flow- Foley 2016 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir ers on the nose. Earthy aromas of baked cherry and 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Intense aromas of fruit and roasted plum are lifted by baking spice and toasted earth converge on the nose of this bottling, from oak on the palate, carried by acidity that lingers on blackberry to sagebrush, wild thyme, loamy earth the finish. —M.K. and dried mushroom. The slight age is just starting to ONX 2017 Black Orchid Petite Sirah (Temple- abv: 14.9% Price: $48 show in friendly ways, with a savory shiitake aspect 93 ton Gap District). Deep and dark aromas of underlying the black plum and mint flavors. —M.K. black currant, roasted black plum, mint and dark abv: 14.4% Price: $40 chocolate are extracted but not overblown on the nose of this bottling. Rich cocoa and roasted black- plum flavors meet with toasty oak on the palate, which is framed by polished tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $54

ONX 2017 Praetorian (Templeton Gap 93 District).­ Fresh aromas of black raspberry and lavender make for a primary take on this Tempranillo-­dominated blend, which includes Mal- bec and Grenache. The palate offers roasted berries, wild herbs and fronds, framed by a structure Grgich Hills 2016 Estate Grown Chardonnay that should last for awhile. Drink 2021–2032. Cel- 93 (Napa Valley). After opening to touches of lar Selection. —M.K. oak and reduction, this white evolves into a lovely ONX 2017 Crux (Paso Robles). Strong aromas abv: 15.4% Price: $48 swan, beautifully structured and deep in texture and 93 of roasted meat and leather are smoothed flavor. Pear, apple and pineapple wrap around toast out by blistered boysenberry on the nose of this and dried herb, finishing strong and supple. This will hearty blend of 35% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 27% do well with further aging; ­enjoy 2021–2026. Cellar Grenache and 3% Petite Sirah. Roasted lamb and Selection. —V.B. boar flavors also arise on the palate, where blue- abv: 14.1% Price: $43 berry compote, wild thyme and tar complete the picture. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $54

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Patz & Hall 2017 Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir Wentworth 2018 Nash Mill Vineyard Pinot 93 (Carneros). Stewed black fruit fills a dense Three Sticks 2017 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). This wine is lively, texture-packed core of tannin and pronounced oak 93 (Sonoma Coast). Deliciously balanced and charming, complex and vibrant, starting with a in this exuberant wine, with moderately structured flavorful, this coastal-influenced red from estate- aroma that segues to mouthfilling red acidity lending a balanced approach. Blue fruit and grown grapes delivers rich, elegant red fruit, dried cherry and rhubarb before a tangy raspberry finish a touch of vanilla meet the palate head-on, showing herb and a touch of flint. The oak is well ­integrated kicks in. It’s an elegant wine that balances restraint a lifted intensity and noticeable length. —V.B. and adds warmth and breadth across the palate, fin- with seduction. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 ishing on accents of cardamom and black tea. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $66 abv: 14% Price: $70

Robert Mondavi 2016 Maestro Cabernet Banshee 2017 Marine Layer Pinot Noir 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Spicy, herbal and Trimbach 2017 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). 92 (Sonoma Coast). Tones of earthy stems and peppery, this wine is blended with 16% Merlot, 9% 93 Subtle aromas of chamomile, peach and forest floor are complemented by brighter bursts Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. a hint of yarrow create a fresh and appetizing of strawberry, orange peel and rose petal in this Iron, dust and black currant highlight the hearty nose. The palate is vivid in lemon freshness that medium-bodied wine. Velvety on the palate, it’s palate that shows a real sense of density and power. brightens creamier, earthier notions on the mid­ smooth yet offers lasting grip. —V.B. This will do well over time; ­enjoy 2026–2031. Cel- palate. It is bone dry, fresh and vivid. Taub Family abv: 14.2% Price: $35 lar Selection. —V.B. Selections. —A.K. abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $30

Brancaia 2016 Ilatraia (Toscana). This blend 92 of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Trinity Hill 2018 Gimblett Gravels Syrah Cabernet Franc features aromas of black-skinned 93 (Hawke’s Bay). This wine kicks off with berry, toasted hazelnut and underbrush. The struc- cherry, currant, ground white pepper, olive, graphite tured palate delivers blackberry jam, toasted oak, Silenus 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- and mocha on the nose. On the palate, the ­tannins licorice and tobacco alongside polished tannins. 93 ley). This estate wine is an elegant expres- are taut and fine, and a graphite character presides Enjoy through 2027. E. & J. Gallo. —K.O. sion of the grape, displaying a nose of earthy sage over crunchy fruit and the long, spicy finish. It’s a abv: 14% Price: $65 and crushed rock. The complexity evolves in the finessed wine that’s approachable now but can be glass, balanced in texture and tannin, with dense, cellared until 2028. Wine Spoken Here. —C.P. rich flavors of black cherry and mocha that comple- abv: 12.5% Price: $40 ment the savory opening. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $72

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BUYINGGUIDE

Foley 2016 Bar Lazy S Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. 92 Rita Hills). A bit shy at first, this bottling emerges steadily with dark cranberry, black rasp- Landmark 2016 Rayhill Vineyard Pinot Noir Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2018 Rosso di berry and shiitake mushroom aromas. The palate 92 (Russian River Valley). This red is juicy and 92 Montalcino. Vibrant and delicious, this text- is compelling and elegant, ranging from flavors of peppery, with a vibrant, complex nose that invites book Rosso has enticing aromas of woodland berry, purple flower and eucalyptus to fresh berry-fruit one in. Earthy tones of forest floor and mushroom rose, tobacco and a whiff of eucalyptus. On the tones. —M.K. mingle on the textured palate before a welcome note smooth, savory palate, polished tannins and bright abv: 14.3% Price: $55 of white pepper highlights the finish. —V.B. acidity accompany succulent wild cherry, rasp- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 berry compote and licorice. Drink through 2023. ­Indigenous Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $22

Lava Cap 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (El 92 Dorado).­ Rich and creamy, this ripe and smooth wine seems to dissolve on the palate, show- Crū 2018 Anniversary Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia­ Garzón 2018 Single Vineyard (Uru- ing apple tart and vanilla flavors that are tasty and 92 Highlands). Bright, defined aromas of straw- 92 guay). This is a ripe version of Tannat, with layered. It’s full in feel but balanced, deftly offering berry and pomegranate evolve into damp earth and earth and blackberry aromas leading the charge. plenty of fruit along with subtle oak spices. —J.G. cinnamon on the nose of this bottling. There is a Toasty dark-fruit flavors benefit from integrated abv: 14.2% Price: $24 brightness to the sip as well, with a snappy rasp- oak, while this tastes peppery on the finish. The pal- berry flavor and well-integrated acidity. —M.K. ate shows a lot of grip, so it’s best to serve this with abv: 13.9% Price: $35 meat. Drink through 2025. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Foley 2017 T Anchor Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Lava Cap 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (El 92 Rita Hills). A light rosewater aroma leads to 92 Dorado).­ This concentrated and com- a ripe pomegranate expression on the nose of this plex wine is subdued at first sniff, showing subtle bottling. There’s an elegant array of violet, lavender touches of oak and dark chocolate, but broadens and and lilac on the sip, as well as black plum and carda- Jax 2017 68 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon deepens on the palate. Flavors of cassis, mocha and mom, which lead into a slightly bitter finish. —M.K. 92 (Napa Valley). Thick tannins wrap around baking spices combine to create a layered, lingering abv: 14.5% Price: $55 tones of dried herb and juicy black cherry in this expression. Best after 2024. —J.G. 100% wine, given 22 months in 65% new abv: 14.5% Price: $32 French oak. Supple and well integrated, it is smooth and approachable, so enjoy in the near term. Edi- tors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Wentworth 2018 Pinot Noir (Anderson Le Vigne 2016 Di Domenico Riservato Caber- 92 Valley).­ This is a satisfying and well-­ 92 net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). A backbone of Seghesio 2016 Venom Sangiovese (Alexan- structured wine made with 30% whole-cluster fruit. boysenberry jam and charred oak is lifted by lots of 92 der Valley). This bold, full-bodied wine is It tastes of pure red- and black-fruit flavors, with wild mint and on the nose of this reserve earthy in tar and leather.­ Black olive, licorice and firm tannins and refreshing acidity lending to the bottling. That refreshing herbal quality extends blackberry follow, with elements of violet, orange­ mouthcleansing texture. Best through 2027. —J.G. to the sip, playing up against the bright red- and peel and currant. It has well-integrated power and abv: 13% Price: $45 purple-fruit­ flavors. —M.K. weight. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 abv: 14.9% Price: $50

Alara 2017 Grenache (San Benito County). Smith and Sheth 2017 Cru Heretaunga Syrah 91 Aromas of pomegranate and crunchy straw- Marimar 2016 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard 92 (Hawke’s Bay). This powerful but finessed berry are lifted by cardamom, game and wet stone 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lush rasp- Syrah starts off with tones of herbs, vanilla and on the nose of this bottling. Strawberry and plum berry and a grip of crushed stone make for a power- mocha, followed closely by blackberry and plum flavors pop on the palate, dusted in wild herb and ful, generous red. Balanced weight keeps it fresh and fruit. With time in the glass, more mineral, graphite sagebrush. —M.K. lively, with a spice note lifting the rich texture. —V.B. and cracked pepper nuances float to the fore. The abv: 15.4% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $49 fruit is plush and silky on the tongue, laden with pepper and spice. The tannins and oak are tight right now, but they should knit together with time. Drink 2022–2030. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

Crū 2018 Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). Crisp aromas of Poggio al Tesoro 2016 Dedicato a Walter (Bol- hibiscus and cranberry are fresh and inviting on the 92 gheri). This opulent 100% Cabernet Franc nose of this bottling. The palate is fresh and fun, opens with inviting aromas of black-skinned berry, offering snappy raspberry-sorbet and tart red-plum bell pepper, graphite and Mediterranean brush. The Trimbach 2018 Riesling (Alsace). Slight flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. concentrated, savory palate offers black currant 92 reduction still shows on the nose of this abv: 13.9% Price: $35 jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside wine, but promises freshness. The palate comes fine-grained tannins.Enjoy ­ through 2025. LUX in with uncommon brightness and slenderness for Wines. —K.O. 2018 and seems to make a show of its uncompro- abv: 15% Price: $100 mising tartness, but there is concentration galore. The finish is dry and all about zesty . Taub Family Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20

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BUYINGGUIDE

DFJ Vinhos 2016 Consensus Pinot Noir-Touriga 91 Nacional (Lisboa). An unusual blend of half Pinot Noir and half , this wine is Garzón 2017 Balasto (Uruguay). Briary berry Knights Bridge 2018 Fairview Sauvignon richly textured and stylishly elegant. Black fruits 91 aromas are thick and slightly reduced, with a 91 Blanc (Knights Valley). Creamy, lush and opu- mingle with red berry flavors, with bright acidity lifted note of juniper on the nose. This blend is the lent in style, this wine is full in feel and robust­ in and spice from wood aging lending structure. Drink top of the line for the producer. Savory berry flavors oak. Ginger, cream and pea shoot add to the melon now. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. are blackened by toasty oak, while this is tightly core, giving a generous, textured mouthfeel. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 coiled in tannins on the finish. Drink through 2025. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120

EnRoute 2017 Marty’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 (Russian River Valley). Earth aromas of soil Knights Bridge 2016 KB Estate Red Blend and black tea sport the nose of this wine that’s Greywacke 2019 (Marlbor- 91 (Knights Valley).­ This wine is a blend of sourced from a cool spot in the Green Valley. Black 91 ough). This wine shows oodles of bright cit- 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 32% cherry, plum and cardamom revolve around supple, rus, melon, stone fruit, green tea, tomato leaf and Petit Verdot, all estate grown. Moderate red fruit lengthy tannins and integrated oak. —V.B. white spice characters. The laser-sharp acidity and supple tannins wrap around touches of cedar, abv: 14.5% Price: $85 provides a beautiful balance to the slippery, creamy black pepper and clove. —V.B. texture, keeping the fruit bright and tangy. Old abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

Familia Deicas 2018 Atlántico Sur Tannat 91 (Juanico). Aromas of spices and wild berries meet with a touch of fur to make for an interest- ing nose. This is ripe and juicy on the palate, with plump weight that’s cut by honest acidity. A pot- Le Vigne 2017 Di Domenico Cabernet Sauvi- pourri of berry flavors is accented by spice notes, 91 gnon (Paso Robles). Cohesive aromas of black while this remains solid on the finish. Paul Hobbs J. Lohr 2017 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso plum, purple flowers and savory smoked meat are Selections. —M.S. 91 Robles). This reliable bottling offers fudge, clean and expressive on the nose of this bottling. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 caramel, black cherry and oak on the ripe nose. Cola The palate is full flavored and robust, with flavors and sarsparilla meet with black-cherry foam on the of black cherry, blackberry and baking spice, all palate, where creamy ­tannins and just enough acid- framed by balanced tannins and acidity. —M.K. ity carry into the finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: 14.9% Price: $35

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Marimar 2016 Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita Seghesio 2017 Cortina Zinfandel (Dry Creek 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This 91 Valley). This brawny, unabashedly ripe, sup- wine has inviting aromas of strawberry, raspberry ple wine is thick in baked plum, dark cherry and and cherry, with a juicy palate that shows broad mocha, with a viscosity that expands on the palate. Acre 2017 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Blended appeal. Sizzling acidity freshens the depth of the Baking spice and cola mingle and add to the opulent 90 with 10% Syrah and aged in a combina- fruit as supple, integrated tannins lend a grip of style. —V.B. tion of European and American oak, this burly wine support. A thread of cardamom spice lingers on the abv: 15.5% Price: $40 ­offers tones of campfire, herb and game. The pal- close. —V.B. ate shows a thick, concentrated core of blackberry abv: 14% Price: $47 seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon­ on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $29

Seghesio 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma 91 County). Brawny in style, this ripe, densely Rapaura Springs 2018 Reserve Sauvignon packed wine shows old-vine personality in its mix 91 Blanc (Marlborough). This pale-yellow-hued of leather saddle, black pepper and cinnamon notes Sauvignon shows a wealth of lemon peel, peach pit, that permeate through the baked cherry and plum snow pea and a touch of honey. The creamy mouth- core. Powdered tannins lend texture and give it feel is buoyed by prickly acidity, and the medley of complexity and weight. —V.B. Alara 2017 (San Benito County). fruit and vegetal notes sings in harmony, creating abv: 15.6% Price: $40 90 Bright aromas of ripe berry, lavender, cin- a sense of fluidity and length. Shaw-Ross Interna- namon stick and clove kick off the nose on this tional Importers. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. ­bottling. That fruit and is strong on the abv: 13% Price: $18 palate as well, alongside clove and more . —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $43

Whitehall Lane 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). 91 This is a well-made, attractively priced red Santa Ema 2017 Amplus Cabernet Sauvignon wine, blended with small amounts of Cabernet Sau- 91 (Maipo Alto). Aromas of black cherry, olive, vignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It shows highlights Alara 2017 (San Benito green herb and tobacco amount to a classic Maipo of sage, clove and cedar that are well integrated into 90 County). Deep aromas of cola, mint, gooey Valley nose. Racy acidity gives this Cabernet a juicy the dense core of blueberry and mocha. —V.B. chocolate and rust show on the nose of this bottling. outlook, while brambly berry, cassis and olive fla- abv: 14.7% Price: $32 Firm tannins frame the blackberry jam, mint and vors finish with a bit of spice. Drink through 2027. cocoa flavors, and then strong barrel influence arises Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. in clove and cardamom accents. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 15.5% Price: $43

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Black Stallion 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Ancient Peaks 2017 Merlot (Santa Margarita 90 Valley). This wine is made in a bold, lush Decoy 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 90 Ranch). Black cherry, potpourri and the style, layered in toasted oak, golden apple, pear and 90 County). Tasty red fruit is complemented slightest hint of vanilla bean show on the nose of this cinnamon. A creamy texture rounds out the well-­ by spicy oak in this approachable wine. With a juicy bottling. Hearty black plum, boysenberry,­ herb and integrated finish. —V.B. midpalate, it offers structure, rich smoothness and pepper flavors pop on the palate, which is wrapped abv: 14.5% Price: $20 a lasting tone of warm spice. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. in a leathery texture. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $20

Chalk Hill 2018 Estate Bottled Sauvignon 90 Blanc (Chalk Hill). This is a creamy, lush and layered white that offers a depth of fruit-­ forward intensity. Peach, melon, dried herb and a hint of ginger combine on the broad palate. —V.B. Eli Madyson 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $33 90 (South Coast). Concentrated aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, and chaparral Andis 2017 Painted Fields (Sierra Foot- show on the nose of this bottling. Flavors of red and 90 hills). This big, bold wine packs in mas- black currants play with black plum, dried herbs and sive amounts of black cherry, wood smoke and dark rocky minerality on the ­palate, leading into a rich chocolate, supporting them with significant tannins brown-sugar-laced ­finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. and a full body. It is delicious now, but should drink abv: 14% Price: $42 better after 2023. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Decoy 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 90 County). This white delivers great qual- ity and appeal. Approachable, soft and smooth, it has rich flavors of peach, pear and melon that are brightened by crisp acidity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Ferrari-Carano 2016 PreVail Back Forty 90 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). From a 40-acre block at 1,200-feet elevation, this Banfi 2016 Magna Cum Laude (Toscana). robust, full-bodied red shows pronounced barrel 90 Aromas of black-skinned berry, sandalwood influence, with a hearty weight and breadth across and mocha shape the nose on this medium-bodied the palate. Black fruit and turned earth are accented red. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon,­ in clove, black pepper and a hint of tobacco. —V.B. ­Merlot and Syrah, the savory palate offers dried abv: 15.1% Price: $90 black ­cherry, tobacco and espresso alongside pol- ished tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Foley 2017 JA Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 90 Hills). Focused aromas of slate, pomegran- ate and rose command the nose of this bottling. Grgich Hills 2016 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa Marimar 2018 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate Light cranberry and thyme flavors come through on 90 Valley). Reductive­ and tight in feel at first, 90 Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian River the mellow palate, along with a dried purple-flower this wine opens slowly in the glass to show a com- Valley). This lovely is fermented in accent. —M.K. plex mixture of leather, tobacco and sage. Big, pow- stainless steel, yielding fresh tones of lemon, flow- abv: 14.3% Price: $55 erful tannins give it weight and breadth around a ers, wet stone and apricot. Focused, bright and lay- lasting note of red currant. —V.B. ered, it provides enough texture and nuance to do abv: 14.6% Price: $43 well alone or at the table. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

Garzón 2018 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Uru- 90 guay). Varietally familiar aromas of tomato Marimar 2018 La Masía Don Miguel Vine- leaf, herbs, plum and currant are fresh and inviting, Knights Bridge 2018 KB Estate Sauvignon 90 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). while this Cabernet Franc feels full and dense but 90 Blanc (Knights Valley). Stone fruit, citrus From the producer’s 30-acre estate of Chardon- balanced by lifted acidity. Spicy berry and herbal and legume all play prominent roles in this hearty, nay planted to three clones, blended together here, flavors are true to the grape, while touches of oak full-bodied white. The bold, textured body shows this white offers pronounced flavors of stone fruit and chocolate are welcome on the finish. Pacific integrated oak and lushness. It was fermented in and vanilla bean. Soft, smooth and rounded, it has Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. mostly stainless ­steel, with 10% in neutral French enough acidity to keep in balance and touches of nut abv: 14.5% Price: $20 oak. —V.B. and baking spice to give it a savory finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $39

Garzón 2018 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). A Kunde 2018 Signature Estate Grown 90 ripe blackberry aroma mixes with a touch 90 Wine (Sonoma ­Valley). This wine is light in of saline on the nose. The palate of this Tannat approach, with appealing flavors of stone fruit and One Acre 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- from a benchmark vintage is ripe and full in feel. creamy vanilla. Made from 98% Grenache and 2% 90 ville). Made, yes, from one acre of an estate Blackberry jam and spice flavors are ripe and satis- Sauvignon Blanc, it’s fresh, fruity and lasting, with site, this 100% varietal wine is sultry, lengthy and fying, while this is warm and complete on the finish. a balanced sense of richness. —V.B. ripe in brawny black fruit. Toasted oak cradles Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $40 the core of cedar and dried herb, finishing well abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ­integrated and dense in style. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

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Seghesio 2018 Zinfandel (Sonoma ­County). Vila Nova 2019 Alvarinho (Minho). Pro- 90 This offering isblended ­ with smaller 90 duced at the 17th-century estate, this is a Poggio al Tesoro 2017 Il Seggio (Bolgh- amounts of Petite Sirah, and mixed reds. ripe, creamy Alvarinho. Still young in a tangy citrus 90 eri). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Juicy and generous in blackberry and vanilla, it is a flavor, it is sure to develop well and round out to ­Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot carries aromas broadly appealing­ style, utilizing both American and a rich wine. Drink from late 2020. Quintessential of black-skinned berry, Mediterranean brush and French oak. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. leather. The structured palate features blackberry abv: 14.8% Price: $26 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 jam, licorice and mocha alongside polished tannins. LUX Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

William Hill Estate 2015 Benchmark (Napa 90 Valley). A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvi- Silenus 2017 Tyros Cabernet Sauvignon gnon, 11% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, this hearty, 90 (Napa Valley). This is an enjoyable and full-bodied red is spicy in black cherry and cassis. Poggio al Tesoro 2016 Sondraia (Bolgheri ­approachable Cabernet that is blended with 23% It lingers in rich, likable toasted oak and vanilla, the 90 Superiore). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. Black cherry, cassis and mocha highlight a wood adding a sweetness that compounds on the Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this leads with aromas soft, supple palate. It has a hint of dried herb on the finish. —V.B. of black-skinned berry, bell pepper and Mediterra- finish.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $100 nean brush. The dense palate delivers prune, cassis,­ abv: 14.5% Price: $32 licorice and tobacco alongside big, chewy tannins. LUX Wines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $85

Yealands 2019 Estate Single Vineyard Sau- 90 vignon Blanc (Awatere Valley). True to the Awatere subregion’s cooler, more ocean influenced climate, this wine leads with vegetal notes of green Rowen Wine Co. 2016 Rowen beans, bell peppers and tomato vine. Citrus, stone 90 (Sonoma ­County). Juicy in soft layers of fruit and wildflowers peep in to round it out. It is cherry, cola and vanilla, this balanced wine is Smith & Hook 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon taut yet creamy and lifted by bright acidity. Palm approachable and memorable. It shows a richness of 90 (Central Coast). This starts with creamy Bay International. —C.P. fruit on the midpalate and a lasting hint of toasted aromas of black cherry, vanilla and mocha. The ripe abv: 13% Price: $24 oak. —V.B. palate offers espresso cream, black cherry sorbet and abv: 14.2% Price: $55 oaky caramel flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Peirano 2017 The Heritage Collection Petite 91 Sirah (Lodi). This is a huge, flavorful, well- Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Les Abeilles de oaked wine that’s full in body, intense in color, Noble Vines 2017 337 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Colombo Red (Côtes du Rhône). Ripe black- broad in mouthfeel and shows good complexity to 90 (California). Lavish oak spices meld seam- cherry and plum flavors are muted by notes of boot. Oak, black pepper and cedar surround a deep lessly with ripe, exotic fruit flavors on a firm but smoke and menthol in this full-bodied blend of blackberry core, while rich, abundant tannins hold silky texture. It’s well balanced, seductive and com- Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Its fruit character everything in their grip. Best through 2025. Best bines freshness and liveliness with deep and layered is primary and plush, edged by soft, persistent tan- Buy. —J.G. flavors.Best Buy. —J.G. nins. Enjoy this easy-drinking sip now–2022. Taub abv: 14.8% Price: $14 abv: 14.5% Price: $13 Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Establecimiento Juanico 2018 Don Pascual Peirano 2017 The Heritage Collection Tem- Cono Sur 2018 Organic Pinot Noir (Chile). 90 Coastal Tannat (Uruguay). Berry, dark plum 90 pranillo (Lodi). Vivid aromas of graphite, 88 Mild raspberry and strawberry aromas set and a hint of raisin fill out the nose of this tightly tobacco and earth are joined by a ripe black-cherry up a crisp palate, with ample body and good bal- wound Tannat. The full palate is cut by bright acid- flavor in this full-bodied, lavishly oaked wine. It has ance. Spiced red plum and currant flavors finish ity, while plum and berry flavors finish with a com- a rich, almost chewy texture, lots of fine-grained with peppery notes and a dusting of nutmeg. This is plex saline note. Alliance. Best Buy. —M.S. tannins for grip and potent fruit concentration that an authentic Pinot priced for everyday enjoyment. abv: 14% Price: $15 powers through the finish.Best Buy. —J.G. Fetzer Vineyards. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Les Abeilles White 90 (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of 80% Clairette Peirano 2016 The Heritage Collection Old and 20% , this freshly balanced white 90 Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This full-bodied Lobster Reef 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- offers delicate hints of smoke and nut as well as wine boasts delicious fruit flavors, a dose of spicy 88 borough). This is a clean, crisp and instantly apple and tangerine. Silky on the palate, it’s an ele- oak, good balance and a wonderful sense of polish. recognizable Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It gant wine that offers plenty of bang for your buck. Jammy raspberry and strawberry flavors meet hints bounces from the glass with scents and flavors of Lovely now, it should hold through 2022. Taub of smoke, meat and herbs. Best Buy. —J.G. juice and grapefruit, with under­currents of Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 14.8% Price: $14 green bell pepper and tomato leaf. Davies Family abv: 13% Price: $13 Selections. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 12.8% Price: $13

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perfumed drop. It’s hard not to fall under its spell. BEST BUYS BEST BUYS Like Christmas distilled, it’s a heady hodgepodge of red currants and preserved cherries marinated in bitter herbs and spices—licorice root, , cin- namon bark and vanilla pod—derived from the fruit and stalks, not from oak. Chalky tannins curl around the tongue, the juicy, prickly fruit trickles through the cracks. Powerfully structured yet utterly drink- able, this would perch happily beside charcuterie or a mushroom truffle risotto. Drink now–2028. Nego- ciants USA–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $80

Black Estate 2017 Home Pinot Noir (North Santa Ema 2018 Select Reserva Car- 93 Canterbury). New to the American market, Parras Wines 2017 370 Léguas Red Wine 87 menère (Colchagua Valley). Fresh aromas of Black Estate makes pristine minimal intervention 88 (Douro). This is a dense, fruity wine, with tomato and green herbs lend lift to the nose. The wines from estate-owned organic and biodynamic a ripe blackberry flavor and rich tannins. Its bold palate is savory in a and tomato profile, with fruit. This Pinot, from the estate’s home block of fruitiness from a blend of classic Douro grapes is plum and herbs wrapped around a core of dry- over-25-year-old vines in clay soil, is hard to resist. right upfront. Drink now. All Star Wine Imports, ing tannins. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits.Best The nose is a heady mix of bright red and blueberry LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Buy. —M.S. fruit, rose petals, minerals and baking spices. In the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 mouth it crunches with juicy brambly fruit tem- pered by rustic tannins that bump this up from light to medium bodied. A bite of cocktail bitters resides on the finish. A vibrant and site-reflective wine. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $38

Felton Road 2018 Block 3 Pinot Noir (Central 93 Otago). Block 3—one of Felton Road’s oldest vineyard blocks at around 25 years—is located on some of the estate’s deepest, heaviest soils. There’s power here, and also a fair bit of oak influence, but there’s elegance and complexity in spades. Rasp- Line 39 2017 Excursion Red Blend (Califor- berry and blueberry fruit combine with potpourri 86 nia). Supple, fruity and a touch sweet, this spice, vanilla, chocolate and a bit of earthy, Bur- Parras Wines 2017 Dharma Red (Dão). An soft and medium-bodied wine offers strawberry and gundy-style reductive funk. There’s a lovely texture 88 equal blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta raspberry-jam flavors.Best Buy. —J.G. on the palate: silky with bright fruit, chalky acid- Roriz and Alfrocheiro, this is a ripe, mineral and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 ity and a well-structured line of tannins. A slightly spicy wine. Big tannins and dark black fruits are oaky astringency that should dissipate over time already finely integrated. Enjoy from late 2020. All creeps in on the finish. Drink now–2030. —C.P. Star Wine Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. SPIRITS abv: 14% Price: $82 abv: 13% Price: $12 Millton 2017 La Pinot Noir (Gisborne). It 93 is imperative that you give this wine, from NZ’s biodynamic guru James Millton, a little time in the glass or a decanter. It will reward you ten- fold with brambly fruit, a medley of spices, dried rose petals and violets, mushrooms and a lingering reductive earthiness that will excite many a Bur- gundy lover. Like a ballerina in pointe shoes, it is both delicate and powerful, showcasing pristine, crunchy red fruit amid taut, chalky tannins. Elegant and graceful with complexity and a funk factor that works brilliantly with Pinot Noir. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $33 Line 39 2017 Merlot (California). Smooth, 87 fruity and fresh, this wine is simple yet deli- Cincoro Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Park Street The Boneline 2017 Wai-Iti Pinot Noir cious. It offers ripe, juicy flavors of red cherry, straw- 91 Imports, Miami, FL). The mild aroma of this 93 (Waipara). This is a delightfully open and berry and plum, all wrapped in a rather soft texture. Tequila shows just a hint of coconut. The palate expressive wine you could smell all day. From the Best Buy. —J.G. opens with robust honey and jalapeño tones, set- glass billow fresh picked cherries, pomegranate abv: 14.5% Price: $11 tling into coconut sweetness on the exit, and braced seeds, ground white pepper and cinnamon bark. up with a drying burst of clove. It’s all packaged in a In the mouth the fruit is lively and mouthwater- dramatic, extra-tall sculptural bottle. ing, its wings pinned by fine, spicy tannins. Light to abv: 40% Price: $70 medium in weight, it closes long and juicy-fruited. A deliciously nuanced drop from an exciting South

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Island region that’s crying out for roast duck. Wine power the plump cherry and plum fruit or rose petal revealing still-vibrant red fruit with signs of age— Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. aromas. The palate is nicely textured with a solid meal, meat and balsamic glaze—peeping through abv: 13% Price: $40 line of acidity that buoys the plush fruit and flows the cracks. The palate is a little thin and languid, to a long cocktail bitters finish. While this lacks the losing some of the character of the nose along the Two Paddocks 2017 The Fusilier Proprietor’s vibrancy and elegance of some of FR’s other single- way, but savory tannins and tangy red fruit still flow 93 Reserve Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This site wines, it’s nevertheless an appealing drop. gently to the finish. A good amount still to like here. vintage of proprietor Sam Neill’s premium organi- Drink now–2027. —C.P. Drink now. The Sorting Table. —C.P. cally farmed Pinot is, for the moment, young and abv: 14% Price: $62 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 reductive, a sturdier wine that we’ve seen, but one that should reward time in the cellar. Rather than Spy Valley 2016 Handpicked Single Estate Sherwood Estate 2018 Sherwood Pinot Noir the broody, oniony aromas associated with reduc- 91 Southern Valleys Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 89 (Waipara Valley). Fans of featherweight, tion, this version emphasizes the wine’s vegetal This Pinot, from Marlborough’s Southern Valleys easy-drinking reds will enjoy this strawberry-hued, and herbal characters: green bell pepper in a sea of subregion, is ripe and fruity but not jammy or baked. chillable sipper. Bright, ripe—if a tad confected— freshly plucked, earthy herbs, brambly berries and Instead the perfume is floral with brambly raspber- strawberry and raspberry fruit dominate on both wildflowers. Streaks of minerals appear as the wine ries, red currants, wild strawberries and under- the nose and the palate, with floral and savory char- opens. Taut, spicy, chalky tannins grip the tongue, tones of cocktail bitters and wet stones. There’s a acters riding its coat tails. Texturally, the palate is but a river of juicy fruit washes it away, ready for lovely lightness to the mouthfeel. Although the fruit on the syrupy side, but crunchy acidity makes the the next sip. Drink 2021–2030. Negociants USA– is gripped by herb-flecked tannins, they’re woven fruit feel tart and fresh. Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —C.P. into the wine rather than sitting over the top of it. A abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $80 savory, herbal note lingers long on the finish. A deli- cate, modern Pinot for drinking young. Broadbent Fire Road 2018 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Felton Road 2017 Calvert Pinot Noir (Central Selections, Inc. —C.P. 88 This is a featherlight, strawberry-hued 92 Otago). The biodynamic Felton Road is one abv: 13% Price: $30 Pinot with heaps of ripe, juicy red berry and plum of Central Otago’s most highly respected estates. fruit backed by a little vanilla and cinnamon spice. The Calvert Vineyard is one of their warmest and Maison L’Envoyé 2017 Pinot Noir (Central Satiny in texture, the tangy fruit tiptoes on the earliest ripening sites, therefore this is one of the 90 Otago). This small batch, characterful tongue, supported by gentle, sinewy tannins and brand’s more structured Pinots. It starts with a Pinot opens with a fruity perfume of plums, blue- with a slightly bitter finish. A easy-drinking red to heady perfume of brambly red and black berries, berries and rhubarb preserves sprinkled with violet pop in the fridge. Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. flowers on their stalks, warm stony mineral notes and baking spice nuances. Traditional winemaking abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and a good helping of spicy, slightly mealy oak influ- techniques like partial whole bunch and open top ence. The fruit in the mouth is tangy, smudged with fermentation add character and generosity. The Greywacke 2017 Kevin Judd Pinot Noir charcoal tannins and wearing a girdle of oak. Still palate is full bodied, the plump fruit reined in by 88 (Marlborough). This wine is initially quite a baby, this should age with grace and beauty until powerful, drying tannins. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. reductive, offering mostly oniony funk. It blows off 2030 or longer. —C.P. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 eventually but requires plenty of time in a glass or abv: 14% Price: $59 decanter to do so. It’s not helped by the mealy oak, Caythorpe 2018 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). which turns more caramel as it sits in the glass. Seresin 2014 Rachel Limited Release Pinot 89 Translucent in the glass, this wine offers a Underneath, ripe fruit, florals and whole bunch 92 Noir (Marlborough). Sanguine in color with nose of candied purple and red fruit that manages to spiciness are divulged. Oak-derived tannins are touches of the same on the nose, this 2014 Pinot, be delicate rather than stewed. Floral and oak spice chalky and knit tightly around juicy fruit, but the from all three of Seresin’s former vineyards, has follow. In the mouth, acidity freshens the plump wine takes a bitter turn at the finish. Old Bridge aged with grace and poise. It leads with notes of fruit, and spicy, oak-derived tannins grip gently. Cellars. —C.P. wild strawberry, cherry, flower stalks and peppery, Tangy fruit flows through to the finish, making abv: 13.5% Price: $39 herbaceous characters, along with a slightly meaty another sip an easy endeavor. Drink now. Amphora tone. There’s a delicious crunch on the palate, Imports LLC. —C.P. Nautilus 2017 Southern Valleys Pinot Noir tangy, still-bright red fruit at its heels and fine tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 (Marlborough). This wine may have suf- nins offering a helping hand. Drink up—this delicate fered in the somewhat tricky 2017. Sulfuric, reduc- creature is peaking now. The Sorting Table. —C.P. Kumeu River 2018 Kumeu Village Hand Har- tive funk sits over the top and takes lots of time in abv: 13.5% Price: $40 89 vested Pinot Noir (Kumeu). This is a very the glass and vigorous swirling to blow off. When it light style of Pinot made from a producer renowned does, pleasant notes of blueberry and cherry jam, Felton Road 2018 Bannockburn Pinot Noir for its Chardonnay. The color of cherry juice, it mushroom, and woody spice reveal themselves. The 91 (Central Otago). This vintage of Felton shows some slight reduction and some oak spice, palate is a little discordant, too. Medium to full Road’s blend of fruit from all four of its vineyards too, on what is an otherwise fruity nose. But both bodied, the plush yet juicy fruit is abundant, but still bears the estate’s signature while being a little the reduction and the oak add character rather than acidity feels forced. Taut, drying tannins hold it all less cohesive than its single-site wines, like Block 3. detract. The palate is lightweight with crisp, angu- together. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. It’s softly spicy with high-toned red berry and plum lar acidity that makes the fruit feel tart, along with abv: 13.5% Price: $33 fruit, green peppercorn and slight mushroomy chalky tannins and a lick of oak spice that dries the notes. The palate is neatly structured, hugged by mouth on the finish. While refreshing, it lacks some Fern Ridge 2018 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). savory, if somewhat blocky tannins. A characterful fleshy fruit weight to soften the acidity and tannins. 87 This is straightforward Marlborough Pinot and approachable drop now. —C.P. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —C.P. that’s a little reductive on the nose. There’s oodles abv: 13.5% Price: $52 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 of strawberry fruit, though, so the reductive charac- ters don’t overpower. The palate balances ripe fruit Felton Road 2018 Cornish Point Pinot Noir Seresin 2013 Rachel Limited Release Pinot with a gentle grip of tannins and lifted acidity, but 91 (Central Otago). This Pinot, from a low lying 89 Noir (Marlborough). It’s a rare treat to taste that reduction masks the overall character of the vineyard almost completely surrounded by water, is bottle aged Marlborough Pinot, and from a top pro- wine. Give this some time open, and drink slightly simultaneously the most reductive, floral and fruity ducer at that. However, this vintage isn’t holding chilled. Saranty Imports. —C.P. of this renowned biodynamic producer’s lineup. up as well as the 2014s. The color of rose petals, abv: 13% Price: $23 The reduction gives a salty edge but it doesn’t over- it takes its time opening in the glass, eventually

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Left Field 2017 Flamingo Recluse Pinot Noir Rabbit Ranch 2017 Pinot Noir (Central fruit, the spice lingering on the long finish. Drink 87 (Marlborough). The color of cherry juice, 85 Otago). This wine is veiled in heavyset, now with hearty autumnal fare until 2035. Wine this Marlborough Pinot starts off somewhat reduc- mealy oak along with some oniony reduction that Spoken Here. Cellar Selection. —C.P. tively, emphasizing mealy oak. But leave it in a mostly blows off with time in the glass. Through the abv: 13% Price: $NA glass or decanter for a short time and this blows cracks peek ripe plums and strawberry jam. In the off, revealing red fruit and clove spice. The palate is mouth, the fruit, acidity and oak seem at odds with Trinity Hill 2018 Gimblett Gravels Syrah lean, with slightly bitter oak and astringent acidity, one another, like three corners of a triangle where 93 (Hawke’s Bay). For full review see page 9. but there’s a lovely line of juicy fruit in the mix, too. one roundness and cohesion is needed. Saranty abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Vision Wine & Spirits. —C.P. Imports. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13.3% Price: $28 Smith and Sheth 2017 Cru Heretaunga Syrah 92 (Hawke’s Bay). For full review see page 11. Palliser Estate 2018 Pinot Noir (Martinbor- Yealands 2018 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Cellar Selection. 87 ough). Oak flavors are at the fore on this full- 85 This wine is aromatic yet also reductive. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 bodied Pinot. Notes of vanilla, cinnamon and cedar Intense aromas of cherries are overlaid with cooked hug the red berry fruit. On the palate, crisp acidity onions, peppery spice and wood shavings. It does Squawking Magpie 2017 Gimblett Gravels and muscular, drying tannins sit beside plump fruit. improve somewhat with time in the glass, the 91 Syrah (Hawke’s Bay). Where oak on the Bor- There’s vibrant fruit here, but it’s tucked behind a oniony reductive notes morphing into more typi- deaux blend from this producer seemed green and veil of oak and tannins. Give this another year or cal secondary ones like earth and mushrooms. The overpowering, in the Syrah it’s better integrated, two in the bottle and it may knit together better. palate, however, lacks cohesion. The fruit sits heav- revealing itself in the form of Christmas spices or Saranty Imports. —C.P. ily and is on the sour candied side, and the oak sits cocktail bitters—an orange rind, clove and dried abv: 13.5% Price: $35 rather awkwardly off to one side like an uncomfort- herbal concoction. Generous helpings of currants able houseguest. Palm Bay International. —C.P. and cedar are there, too. There’s generosity on the Seaside Cellars 2018 Pinot Noir (New Zea- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 palate as well. Silky and approachable, it coats the 87 land). This is a translucent, featherlight tongue with juicy berry fruit flavors, gentle tendrils Pinot with delicate yet ripe strawberry and orange of finely structured tannins falling around them. chocolate notes. The palate is almost water-like in SYRAH The spicy nuance carries through to the finish. its lightness, showing only the slightest hint of tan- Drink now–2026. NZ Wine Direct. —C.P. nins and acidity. A straightforward drop that would Te Mata 2018 Estate Vineyards Syrah abv: 13.2% Price: $NA make a good choice for white wine drinkers looking 94 (Hawke’s Bay). There is a simplicity to this to ease into reds. Tri-Vin Imports. —C.P. wine, made by one of New Zealand’s most historic Anthony Joseph Vidal 2017 Soler Gimblett abv: 13% Price: $16 wineries. But simple can be beautiful, particularly 90 Gravels Syrah (Hawkes Bay). This is a struc- when it comes to red wines on the fuller end of the tured, full-bodied wine but one that’s soft around Villa Maria 2018 Private Bin Pinot Noir (Marl- spectrum. At first sniff, pristine red fruit is woven the edges, making it approachable when young. 87 borough). Almost translucent in color, with with licorice, olives, herbs and slightly chocolaty Cherry fruit, slightly soapy, spicy oak, olive, licorice bright red berry fruit leading on the nose here, fol- oak. But as it opens in the glass, the oak fades and the Gimblett Gravels’s typical graphite char- lowed by vanilla and cedar nuances. It’s lightweight and warm stone minerality takes its place. Firmly acter lead on the nose. On the palate, firm, drying in the mouth, texturally silky with a supportive medium bodied, the tangy fruit is interlaced with tannins and lifted acidity temper plush, tangy fruit. line of tannins but with a slightly astringent finish. savory herbs and balanced by lifted acidity and Distinctive but not overpowering oak spice flavors Straightforward and likable but falls somewhat flat. chalky tannins. This is cool climate Syrah that is run through to the finish. Drink now–2027. —C.P. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —C.P. unpretentious yet wholly sure of itself. Wine Dogs abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $18 Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Elephant Hill 2017 Airavata Syrah (Hawke’s Yealands 2018 Estate Single Vineyard Pinot 90 Bay). This is big boned and pretty austere 87 Noir (Awatere Valley). Yealands’s single- Trinity Hill 2017 Homage Syrah (Hawke’s at the moment, but it suggests a promising future. vineyard Pinot is a dense, rich wine that currently 94 Bay). While it’s hard to get past the heavy For the moment, oak-derived aromas like vanilla sits under a blanket of mealy, charred oak. There’s bottle in the age of climate change, this producer’s and chocolate are in the driver’s seat, the plump plump red berry fruit and earthy, peppery nuances, latest vintage of its top wine is a skillfully crafted blackberry and black olive taking a back seat. The too, and the fruit does fight its way to the fore with drop. Less overtly spicy than the previous vintage, mouthfeel is plush but not overtly ripe, laced with time in the glass or decanter, but the barrel nev- it opens with bright red fruit, florals, flecks of black dusty, savory, oak tannins. Muscular yet focused. ertheless wears a heavy cloak, which encircles the olives, warm pavement and peppery spice. Things Drink 2021–2028. NZ Wine Home. —C.P. palate as well. Tannins are savory, and there’s an get more serious on the palate with a lovely powdery abv: 13% Price: $NA appealing silky texture, but the oak feels sour and texture and taut, fine tannins. Minerals and spices mealy, particularly at the finish. Palm Bay Interna- abound amid the crunchy red fruit. Those tannins Elephant Hill 2017 Stone Syrah (Hawke’s tional. —C.P. indicate a long life ahead. Drink now with food– 88 Bay). This is a big boned and oak influenced abv: 13.5% Price: $31 2035. NZ Wine Home. Cellar Selection. —C.P. wine, but a structured one that’s not jammy. Cola abv: 13% Price: $120 and furniture polish notes overlay red and black Marlborough Estate Reserve 2017 Pinot Noir fruit. A streak of coffee, dried herbs and graphite 86 (Marlborough). This is a ripe, fruity Pinot Trinity Hill 2016 Homage Syrah (Hawkes adds interest. The dense palate comes with drying that leads with aromas of grape jelly, licorice, cola- 94 Bay). This premium Hawkes Bay Syrah, oak tannins and earthy, herbal nuances throughout. and-oatmeal oak notes and minerals. The palate is housed in an extremely heavy bottle, is a muscular Give this a little more time in the bottle for the tan- similarly fruity but with enough acidity to lift it wine set for many years of cellaring. Nevertheless it nins and wood to subside. Drink 2022–2030. NZ out of jam territory. Softly spiced tannins provide delivers a level drinkability now, and is, hence the Wine Home. —C.P. gentle support. A straightforward yet likable drop. name, a clear homage to the Northern Rhône. It’s abv: 13% Price: $NA Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —C.P. highly savory and herbal, delivering heaps of tomato abv: 13.5% Price: $17 leaf and pencil lead amid brambly berries, dried flowers and a whiff of campfire smoke. Tannins are finely structured, wound neatly around pristine

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 helped by the oak, which is a little aggressive and Both fresh and textural, it weaves crunchy acidity RED BLENDS drying, making it hard to find generosity of flavor. with a talc-like mouthfeel and slippery fruit weight, Kobrand. —C.P. making it easy to take another sip. Capitello. —C.P. Sacred Hill 2017 Helmsman (Hawke’s Bay). abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 91 This vintage of Helmsman is a solid and mul- tifaceted offering that’s still a baby. It opens gener- Squawking Magpie 2017 SQM Gimblett Grav- Greywacke 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- ously with raspberry, blueberry and violet aromas, 86 els Cabernet-Merlot (Hawkes Bay). There’s a 91 ough). For full review see page 12. backed by pencil lead, leather, tar, licorice and a lick green, soapiness at the fore on this wine, not from abv: 13.5% Price: $23 of dusty oak. Power on the palate comes in the form underripeness but likely from the choice of oak. of slightly aggressive, raspy, drying tannins. It’s Attractive berry fruit peeps through the cracks, and Mohua 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). a weighty wine but not an overly ripe one, and it as the wine opens in the glass, highly herbaceous 91 The excellent 2019 Marlborough vintage was mostly needs time for those tannins to settle into and spicy notes float to the front. It all feels a little clearly kind to this wine. It wraps flavors of passion the wine. Drink 2022–2030. NZ Wine Home. Cel- forced, though. Tannins on the palate grip tightly, fruit, lemon-lime and snow pea into a chalky tex- lar Selection. —C.P. drying out the mouth and leaving woody astrin- ture sliced through with zippy acidity and a long, abv: 13.5% Price: $85 gency in their wake. —C.P. tangy finish. Bright, refreshing and destined for abv: 13.7% Price: $NA poolside sipping. Vineyard Brands. —C.P. Villa Maria 2017 Cellar Selection Merlot- abv: 13% Price: $16 91 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Hawkes Bay). This affordable Bordeaux blend from one of New OTHER RED WINES Nautilus 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Zealand’s biggest names once again hits the mark. 91 ough). This wine is a touch salty and flinty to There’s a nice juxtaposition on the nose of perfumed Te Mata 2018 Estate Vineyards Gamay start, which adds character to the notes of lemon- raspberry and plum fruit alongside heavier notes 92 Noir (Hawkes Bay). If this historic estate’s lime, gooseberry, pineapple rind, honeysuckle and like crushed rocks, savory spices, dusty oak and Gamay is anything to go by, New Zealand should green herbs wafting from the glass. A creamy yet Cab-like tomato leaf and ground pepper nuances. be planting more of the stuff. A vibrant crimson chalky texture is woven with juicy fruit and prickly Despite its bargain price, this is a serious, struc- color, it’s a perky medley of cherries, blueberries acidity, ending long and citrusy. Spicy Mexican or tured wine that’s chiseled and precise on the pal- and strawberries woven with licorice, baking spice Thai cuisine has met its match. Negociants USA– ate, neatly balancing fruit, spice and minerals with and florals, with earthy, mineral base notes. In the Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. tightly wound, leathery tannins. Drink now with mouth the crisp acidity gives a crunch to all that abv: 13% Price: $20 protein–2028. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —C.P. fruit. The silky texture is held together with gen- abv: 13% Price: $17 tle yet structured and spicy tannins. Light bodied Rapaura Springs 2018 Reserve Sauvignon and harmonious, with the oak tucked neatly away, 91 Blanc (Marlborough). For full review see page Smith and Sheth 2017 Cru Cantera Omahu this is an ultradrinkable, chillable red wine to be 13. Editors’ Choice. 89 (Hawke’s Bay). This Hawkes Bay red blend cracked open young. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Edi- abv: 13% Price: $18 of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tem- tors’ Choice. —C.P. pranillo is a massive, rich wine that’s currently abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Villa Maria 2019 Cellar Selection Sauvignon underneath a thick blanket of chocolaty, vanillin 91 Blanc (Marlborough). This is a solid example oak. The plump plum, red and black berry fruit and Estate 2017 Gimblett Gravel Barrique of Marlborough Sauvignon that’s well-priced, easy dried herb characters peep through the cracks. The 91 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (New Zealand). to get your hands on, and from at great vintage. It palate is equally barrel influenced, but there’s also It’d be hard to mistake this wine for anything other strikes a lovely balance between fruit and herbal focused, structured tannins and a pleasing combo than a Gimblett Gravels Cab. Showing all the hall- tones in the form of juicy lime, zingy gooseberry, of silky fruit and earthy herbs. Whether the oak mark signs of this unique landscape, it’s open and crunchy snow pea and spicy green bell pepper. Ste. will integrate over time is anyone’s guess, but one expressive with notes of brambly berries, mint, vio- Michelle Wine Estates. —C.P. thing’s for sure, this is not ready to drink anytime let, dried herbs and spices, and smudges of earth abv: 13% Price: $17 soon. Try cellaring from 2023 to 2040. NZ Wine and graphite. The palate is tightly structured with Home. Cellar Selection. —C.P. spicy tannins encompassing succulent black cur- Cloudy Bay 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 13% Price: $NA rant. There’s plenty of power here but restraint, too. 90 ough). This vintage of Marlborough’s most Drink now with protein until at least 2035. —C.P. famous label is a balanced, refreshing drop. Bright Trinity Hill 2017 The Gimblett Gimblett abv: 13% Price: $NA aromas of grapefruit, peaches n’ cream, lemongrass 88 Gravels (Hawke’s Bay). This inky-hued Bor- and tomato leaf lead to a palate that crunches with deaux-style blend from the famed Gimblett Gravels Oyster Bay 2018 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay). This acidity while also being slippery and juicy-fruited. of Hawkes Bay in New Zealand’s North Island is 88 is a straightforward sipper opening to notes A summer sipper with or without food. Moët Hen- dark in color and equally as dense in style. Aromas of black currant, chocolate, mint and oak spice. The nessy USA. —C.P. of blueberries, florals, earthy spices and graphite palate is rich and round with plump, fleshy fruit and abv: 13% Price: $31 are overlaid with cola and vanillin oak. This pattern leathery tannins. The oak sticks out a little, espe- repeats on the palate, where muscular, somewhat cially on the finish An easygoing cold weather wine. Fern Ridge 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- astringent tannins are added to the mix, making the Drink now. Delegat USA, Inc. Best Buy. —C.P. 90 ough). A touch of salty reduction actually plush fruit feel a little heavy. One for big red drink- abv: 13% Price: $13 adds character to this wine, rather than detracts. ers. NZ Wine Home. —C.P. That’s probably because the fruit is so bright and abv: 13% Price: $30 likable: lemon, guava and gooseberry are backed by SAUVIGNON BLANC flecks of dried green herbs. In the mouth the acid- Craggy Range 2017 Te Kahu Single Vineyard ity is zippy but not searing, balancing texture, juicy 87 Merlot-Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sauvignon Capitello 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- citrus fruit and herbs right to the finish. Saranty Gimblett Gravels Vineyard (Hawke’s Bay). Red fruit, 91 ough). While this wine is reductive at the Imports. —C.P. licorice, Christmas spice and toasty oak take up start, those salty, oniony aromas blow off with time abv: 13% Price: $18 the lead in this Bordeaux blend. The silky-textured in the glass and reveal honeyed citrus notes along fruit on the palate is overlaid by powerful, granular with subtle green, stalky characters like tomato leaf Greywacke 2017 Wild Sauvignon Sauvignon tannins that feel somewhat astringent. They’re not and jalapeño. It’s the palate that shines brightest. 90 Blanc (Marlborough). The cooler vintage

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BUYINGGUIDE can be felt on the 2017 version of former Cloudy Yealands 2019 Estate Single Vineyard Sauvi- Loveblock 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Bay winemaker Kevin Judd’s Wild Sauvignon. It 90 gnon Blanc (Awatere Valley). For full review 88 ough). Currently this vintage of Loveblock starts reductively, with wax, onion and salty notes see page 16. is ultrayoung, with what feels like a fair whack of but opens with air to something more buttery, like abv: 13% Price: $24 sulfur overlaying the fruit. Peach, tropical fruit and a Chardonnay, with citrus, stone fruit and green honeysuckle are there, along with a flicker of some- herbal aromas at the rear. The textural work on Ponga 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- thing herbal. The palate is creamy with nicely bal- the palate is obvious, and while it’s still full bod- 89 ough). Offering a bit more character than anced acidity and a bitter note on the finish. Terlato ied, this vintage is a more focused and refreshingly many others in this category, this aromatic SB Wines International. —C.P. restrained expression than we’ve seen in the past. wafts grapefruit, lychee, peach and green bell pep- abv: 13% Price: $28 Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. pers, sliced through on the palate with razor-sharp abv: 13.5% Price: $29 acidity. It’s the play between the acidity, chalky Mount Fishtail 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- texture, fruit weight and herbal nuances that gives 88 borough). Relatively quiet on the nose by Hillersden 2017 Reserve Fumé Blanc (Marl- this interest. A decent length also helps. Negociants Marlborough SB standards, this wine starts off 90 borough). This is a fairly worked but solid USA–Winebow. Best Buy. —C.P. with soft notes of peaches and tropical fruit along example of an oak-aged Sauvignon. Partially wild abv: 12.5% Price: $13 with whispers of florals, grass and dried herbs. It fermented in a combo of oak barrels, it leads with opens up more with time in the glass. On the palate, subtle notes of green beans and flower stalks, fol- Ten Sisters 2019 Single Vineyard Sauvignon prickly acidity is a bit biting, but it nicely carries lowed by papaya, grapefruit and pineapple rind fruit 89 Blanc (Marlborough). Creeping back up to the creamy, fleshy texture. Tangy fruit lingers on and honeysuckle. The palate is the focus, though, the quality of 2016, before the tricky ’17 and ’18 vin- finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. and while acidity soars above the rest, it’s soon tages, this release of relatively small batch Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 grounded by a creamy yet powdery texture and a lift gnon is a charming, fruity little number. Peach and of tangy fruit that flows into a long finish. Hillers- pineapple are backed by slightly reductive, white Peregrine 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Central den. —C.P. spice notes. It’s the play between freshness and tex- 88 Otago). This vintage of Peregrine is, for the abv: 12.5% Price: $17 ture on the palate that reels you in. Slightly creamy moment, ultrayoung and a little reductive, high- in the mouth, it slithers over the tongue before lighting the green pepper, nettle and tomato leaf Kim Crawford 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- being lifted to freshness by bright acidity. Bartow notes. Underneath you can see grapefruit and lemon 90 borough). After a string of tough vintages Imports. —C.P. citrus, but it’s a little angular and austere. Give this that didn’t wear well on this famous brand’s Sauvi- abv: 13.2% Price: $18 time in the glass, however, and as it warms to room gnons, the latest release is back up to snuff. Heady temperature the fruit feels much riper and brighter. notes of lime blossom, peach and gooseberry lead Vavasour 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- In the mouth the acidity is high, but there’s a lovely the pack, with subtle aromas of green bell pepper 89 ough). You can see the influence of the texture and a long finish than hints that this just and dried herbs following, to remind you where you more ocean-influenced Awatere Valley in this wine. needs more time in the bottle to find its way. Drink are in the Sauvignon Blanc world. In the mouth a It takes the shape of jalapeños, tomato stems and 2021–2026. Vineyard Brands. —C.P. creamy texture and fleshy fruit are freshened by white spices. There’s a lovely balance of limy fruit abv: 11.5% Price: $29 lively acidity. Juicy lime on the finish makes it easy and florals. And on the palate, that harmony contin- to take another sip, especially if a plate of sushi or ues with a textural mouthfeel lifted by crisp acidity Yealands 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- spicy southeast Asian food is nearby. Constellation and bright fruit. Foley Family Wines. —C.P. 88 ough). All the classic cool-climate charac- Brands, Inc. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 ters of Marlborough Sauvignon come through on abv: 12.5% Price: $18 this wine: gooseberry, citrus, nettle, jalapeño and Villa Maria 2019 Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc freshly cut grass are all there in equal measures. Marlborough Estate Reserve 2018 Sauvi- 89 (Marlborough). Like licking a popsicle, Acidity on the palate is a little searing, particularly 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). This Sauvignon there’s a refreshing and ultrafruity likability about without the fleshy fruit to back it up. But there’s is more textural and medium bodied than the usual Villa Maria’s latest Private Bin SB, from a great vin- texture and an herbaceousness, particularly on the light, crisp styles. Pale lemon in color, there’s soft tage after two difficult ones. Peach, lime and straw- finish, that make this a solid drop. Palm Bay Inter- honey-roasted nut and salty seashell characters berry burst from the glass. Undercurrents of green national. —C.P. woven into the zesty lemon and peach skin aromas. pepper and grass are there, too. In the mouth, the abv: 12.5% Price: $15 The palate is creamy in texture with elevated acid- fruit feels bouncy and juicy, and acidity is lifted but ity, reminding you that this is, after all, a Marlbor- not searing. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Best Buy. Clifford Bay 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- ough SB. Soft citrus and herbs carry onto the finish. —C.P. 87 ough). Part of the ever-expanding portfolio Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $14 of American-owned Foley Family Wines, this is abv: 13% Price: $15 straightforward, ultracrisp Sauvignon Blanc that Waipapa Bay 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- leads with ripe topical and stone fruits balanced by Sacred Hill 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 borough). This is a straightforward, fruity notes of fresh green beans and bell peppers. In the 90 ough). In an ocean of everyday Marlbor- and refreshing example of Marlborough’s most mouth, prickly acidity nearly wrestles the fruit out ough Sauvignon Blanc, this stands out for it’s ability famous wine style. While the heady nose feels a bit of the picture, and it veers toward astringency on to strike balance regarding flavor (nicely ripe fruit- synthetic, the peach, lime, orange and snow pea aro- the finish. Foley Family Wines.Best Buy. —C.P. veg-spice) and mouthfeel (texture-acidity-length). mas are nonetheless appealing. In the silky-textured abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Gooseberry, stone fruit (as it warms in glass) and mouth, acidity is bright and crisp, making the fruit snow pea notes mesh with white spice and a salty feel tangy and juicy. MHW, Ltd. —C.P. Fault Line 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- character. Bright, slippery and pithy, juicy fruit and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 ough). More in the tropical fruit spectrum spice flow through to a relatively lengthy finish. than the citrus or vegetal one, this wine offers pine- Enough structure here to work with food. DC Flynt Lobster Reef 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- apple and guava upfront with a little lime, tomato MW Selections. Best Buy. —C.P. 88 borough). For full review see page 17. Best leaf and green herbal notes at the rear. The mouth- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Buy. puckering acidity is almost overwhelming, since abv: 12.8% Price: $13 there’s little in the way of texture or fruit weight

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 to counteract it. A straightforward summer sipper. Frenzy 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Ribbonwood 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Winesellers, Ltd. —C.P. 86 ough). A youthful, citrusy wine that shows 86 borough). There are notes of nettle, goose- abv: 13% Price: $13 some reductive, Band-Aid notes that perch above berry, grapefruit and tomato leaf on the nose and lemon-lime, dried herb and bell pepper charac- palate of this wine, but they’re blanketed in quite a Nautilus 2017 The Paper Nautilus Sauvignon ters. The reduction sits blanket-like over the palate bit of sulfur, or so it seems. Crisp, lean and tart in 87 Blanc (Marlborough). From a cool vintage, as well, emphasizing the searing acidity. However, the mouth, this likely needs several more months in this is a taut and rather austere wine. With time in there’s enough texture here that once this wines the bottle and then some time in a glass or decanter the glass it reveals aromas of tart lemon, grapefruit, settles in the bottle—ideally in another six months for the sulfur and subsequent reduction to sort pineapple rind, green peppercorn and dried green to a year—it should make a solid and relatively well- themselves out. Tri-Vin Imports. —C.P. herbs. The palate is chalky and textural, sliced balanced drop. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $17 through with angular, prickly acidity. Drink 2021– abv: 12.5% Price: $14 2026. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. Sea Pearl 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 13.5% Price: $49 Giesen 2018 The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc 86 ough). There’s a pleasing play between 86 (Marlborough). The year 2018 was one of zesty lime and green herbal-tomato leaf aromas at Staete Landt 2017 Duchess Sauvignon Blanc the toughest on record in Marlborough, and this the start of this wine. But the acidity on the palate 87 (Marlborough). This wine starts bright and wine is suffering because of it. It’s ripe and fruity, is enamel stripping. The fruit and what feels like a citrusy, followed by pineapple, guava, tomato leaf but it feels forced and a little synthetic. The orchard little residual sugar are there in an attempt to bal- and dried herbal aromas. The palate is less coher- fruit, passion fruit and tomato leaf characters lead ance all that acidity, but for the moment anyway, ent, with acidity that’s a bit aggressive and a finish to a slightly more promising palate, where a talc- it’s in vain. Try again in another six months. Wine- that’s abrupt. But a chalky texture and bright fruit like texture balances crunchy, if rather enamel- sellers, Ltd. —C.P. suggest this may simply need another year or two in stripping, acidity. There’s a slight sulfuric burn on abv: 13% Price: $12 the bottle to knit together. Saranty Imports. —C.P. the finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $26 Spy Valley 2016 Envoy Johnson Vineyard 86 Waihopai Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Totara 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Hillersden 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc This vintage of Spy Valley’s top wine is very reduc- 87 This is more open and less reductive than 86 (Marlborough). The nose on this wine is on tive at the moment, with intense oniony aromas the previous vintage. The perfumed nose offers the quiet side, when compared with the perfumed overpowering all the rest. It struggles to blow off waxy lemon-lime, peach, tropical fruit and nettle extroverts that occupy most of this category. Aro- with exposure to air but eventually does eke out soft characters. The mouthfeel is slippery and sliced mas of lime, pineapple and a little dried herbs ease citrus, flint and toasty oak (a “Fumé Blanc” style, with slightly biting acidity. There’s just enough fruit gently into a palate that shows a nice creaminess of it spends 12 months in oak). The palate sears with weight and what feels like a touch of residual sugar texture, and possibly the slightest touch of resid- laser-sharp acidity that slices through a creamy, there to counteract it. Opici Wines. —C.P. ual sugar, but both get overpowered by the sharp, opulent mouthfeel and juicy citrus fruit. The oak abv: 13% Price: $NA somewhat clunky acidity that gives the impression can be felt right through to the finish. Broadbent of sourness of fruit. The finish takes a nose-dive. Selections, Inc. —C.P. Caythorpe 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Hillersden. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 86 borough). This wine exemplifies Marlbor- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ough’s classic combo of passion fruit, peach and Sunshine Bay 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvi- lime leaf together with greener notes like bell pep- Hillersden 2018 Long Story Short Sauvignon 86 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). A very young per and snow pea. It’s less balanced on the palate, 86 Blanc (Marlborough). This wine opens a and zippy Marlborough SB that hits all the “correct” where mouthpuckering acidity overwhelms what little on the soapy side. White spice, dried herb, style targets: pineapple, gooseberry, green bean and little texture is there. Nevertheless, the finish is lime and grapefruit aromas are present, too. There’s grass. Acidity is still searing, but there’s a slippery long and zippy, and plenty will like this ultrazingy a fair amount of residual sugar on the palate, but texture, oodles of lingering tropical fruit and what style. Amphora Imports LLC. —C.P. also rapier-like acidity. A straightforward, youthful feels like a little residual sugar that should balance abv: 13% Price: $15 drop. Hillersden. —C.P. this better with a little more time in the bottle. G.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Skaggs, Inc. Best Buy. —C.P. Dashwood 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 12.5% Price: $7 86 ough). Another in the American-owned Locations NV NZ8 Sauvignon Blanc (New Foley Family Wines portfolio, this everyday Sau- 86 Zealand). An improvement on the previous Marisco Vineyards 2018 Leefield Station vignon is a little reductive on the nose, so give it vintage, this wine is relatively bright and ripe, offer- 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Where plenty of time in the glass for those oniony char- ing up notes of tropical fruit, grapefruit and white “The King’s Flavor” leans toward ripe and fruity, acters to blow off and make way for the fruit: lime pepper spice. The palate is crisp and simple, bal- this Sauvignon is more toned down, offering cooler and grapefruit backed by tomato leaf. On the palate ancing acidity with a chalky texture and an herbal notes of gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, jalapeño and the acidity is puckering and the fruit feels a touch finish. E. & J. Gallo. —C.P. dried green herbs. Acidity on the palate is simi- underripe. There’s what feels like a little residual abv: 12.5% Price: $25 larly searing, but here the touch of residual sugar sugar to make up for it. The finish is abrupt. Foley adds texture and the fruit is somewhat in balance. Family Wines. —C.P. Mussel Bay 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- There’s a burning sensation particularly on the fin- abv: 13% Price: $15 86 ough). This is a young, austere wine show- ish, likely from the sulfur, however, that’s hard to ing lots of reduction at the moment in the form of get past. Vinovia Wine Group/Marisco Vineyards Duck Hunter 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- onion and Band-Aid. This will eventually blow off USA. —C.P. 86 borough). A straightforward Marlborough once the bottle is open or the wine is in a glass but abv: 13% Price: $15 Sauvignon that offers notes of peach, lime and may take several hours. In its place you’ll find green flecks of dried green herbs. The texture is creamy, bell pepper, lime, grapefruit and dried herbal notes, Marisco Vineyards 2018 The King’s Favour the acidity prickly and pronounced but not searing. sliced through with tongue-tingling acidity. Fruit 85 Waihopai Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). The finish leaves a bitter, slightly burning sensa- on the palate adds much needed fleshiness and soft- Highly aromatic and fruity, the nose on this wine tion, likely due to sulfur. Tri-Vin Imports. —C.P. ness. The texture is chalky, and an herbal note car- conjures a creamsicle, peach cobbler and lime sor- abv: 13% Price: $20 ries through to the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —C.P. bet, underpinned by a hint of grassy, green herbal abv: 12.5% Price: $15 notes. The palate is less appealing, singeing the

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BUYINGGUIDE tongue with acidity and sulfur, and a touch of resid- and sipped practically at room temperature before donnay, this wafts almost -like aromas like ual sugar that does little in the way of balancing the offering up subtle pear, stone fruit, butterscotch spiced baked apples, ripe melon and lemon cake equation. The fruit is appealing, even here, but it and vanilla bean oak notes, and even then aromas with a graham cracker crust. For as rich and heady feels forced and synthetic. Vinovia Wine Group/ are trumped by the palate, where chalk and cream as the nose is, the palate is surprisingly bone-dry Marisco Vineyards USA. —C.P. share a balance beam with pristine acidity and oak and creamy in texture with a short finish but an abv: 13% Price: $16 that supports but is currently a little drying. There’s overall balance and likability. Mach Flynt, INC. length and laser focus, though. This just needs a —C.P. Twin Islands 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- patient owner. Drink 2022–2030. Wilson Daniels abv: 13% Price: $15 85 borough). This wine is showing what seems Ltd. Cellar Selection. —C.P. to be a fair bit of sulfur. It’s acting more like a abv: 13% Price: $68 Waipapa Bay 2019 Chardonnay (Marlbor- blanket than anything, masking the other flavors. 87 ough). A perfumed and fruity Chardonnay, Underneath lurks lemon-lime and tropical fruit Kumeu River 2018 Hunting Hill Chardonnay this billows lime, grapefruit and apple on the nose with some subtle green vegetal notes. There’s what 90 (Kumeu). This vintage of Hunting Hill, from along with some creamy, butterscotch, mineral feels like a touch of residual sugar to the palate, one of New Zealand’s most renowned Chardonnay notes from lees and barrel influence. Plump and rich which provides welcome respite from the soaring producers, is, like the “Maté,” currently very young on the palate, there are oodles of fruit and a creamy, acidity and short, slightly bitter finish. Negociants and austere. After some time warming in the glass, spicy and rather heavy oak that’s a little off-putting, USA–Winebow. —C.P. soft but fairly ripe melon and tropical fruit, along especially at the finish. This feel a little overworked abv: 12.5% Price: $15 with buttery, vanillin oak characters emerge. Once and synthetic. MHW, Ltd. —C.P. again, the palate is the star here: Laser-sharp acid- abv: 13% Price: $15 ity is tempered by a slippery texture and a zing of CHARDONNAY citrus fruit. But, while the winemaking is solid with Jules Taylor 2018 Chardonnay (Marlbor- nary a hair out of place, there’s little in the way of 85 ough). These wines have struggled some- Kumeu River 2018 Coddington Chardonnay character. It’s likely going to take many years before what over the past few years, possibly due to the 93 (Kumeu). This is Kumeu’s middle-tiered that will show. Drink 2023–2030. Wilson Daniels difficult vintages of ’17 and ’18, and the winemaking Chardonnay, and it is the most approachable young, Ltd. —C.P. feels a little heavy-handed. This Chard is currently yet promises a long and happy life in the cellar. abv: 13% Price: $60 blanketed in green-tinged, buttery wood characters Delicate aromas of honeysuckle, citrus and butter- and ripe peach and citrus fruit. While the texture scotch oak characters come together on the palate in The Boneline 2016 Barebone Chardonnay is creamy, the acidity feels angular and the fruit a beautifully textural mouthfeel. Length, harmony 90 (Waipara). As the name suggests, this is a dense, making for a lack of harmony overall. Mari- and precision are all here. Drink now with food or stripped-back Chardonnay sans much of the wine- time Wine Trading Collective. —C.P. until 2030 at least. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —C.P. making trickery that can easily overwhelm this vari- abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $49 ety. It also makes for a rather simple wine, because, let’s face it, unless grown in exceptional soils, Char- Jules Taylor 2018 OTQ Single Vineyard Char- Kumeu River 2018 Estate Chardonnay donnay flying solo isn’t the most characterful of 84 donnay (Marlborough). This style of high 93 (Kumeu). Within Kumeu’s wide range of grapes. All is in harmony, however, in the form of solids Chardonnay, which aims via winemaking Chardonnays (after all, this far northern winery has citrus fruit, white blossoms and underlying hon- technique to produce struck match and salty reduc- carved its reputation on the variety), its estate wine eyed nuances. Chalky yet creamy on the palate, and tive and barrel characters, is the latest trend Down is the one to go for if drinking young, although it sliced through with crystalline acidity, this toned- Under, but it’s easy to go too far with it, and unfor- will continue to blossom over the next five to seven down Chard would make a versatile food match. tunately in this case, it has. Intense aromas of burnt years. Exceptionally food-friendly, it offers all the Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. popcorn, flint and toast blanket the nose, while the length and class of the upper-tier wines, but with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 citrus fruit hides in the corner. The texture on the more upfront appeal in the form of bright citrus palate is lovely, but it’s overpowered by toasted oak and pear fruit, white spice and honey. Like with its Peregrine 2018 Chardonnay (Central Otago). flavors, and the fruit gets lost. Maritime Wine Trad- brethren, the palate stars in the show with texture 89 Typical of this producer, this lemon-hued ing Collective. —C.P. and acidity striking a graceful balancing act, and Chardonnay is at first a little austere, requiring abv: 13% Price: $24 with oak taking a back seat. Wilson Daniels Ltd. some time in the glass to open and warm before Editors’ Choice. —C.P. revealing its true colors. Melon, fig, cream and toast Oyster Bay 2018 Chardonnay (Marlborough). abv: 13% Price: $34 combine with a viscous texture that’s balanced by 84 There’s bright citrus and peach fruit here, lifted acidity. The oak sits a little heavily, and the but it’s overlaid by vanillin oak, sharp acidity and a Kumeu River 2018 Kumeu Village Hand finish is abrupt. Vineyard Brands. —C.P. plastic quality that makes this feel quite synthetic 93 Harvested Chardonnay (Kumeu). When abv: 13.5% Price: $37 and forced. Delegat USA, Inc. —C.P. compared with the almost severe austerity of abv: NA Price: $13 this renowned Chardonnay producer’s upper-tier Trinity Hill 2017 Gimblett Gravels Chardon- wines, this entry-level one is downright boisterous. 88 nay (Hawke’s Bay). This rich, aromatic Bright gold in hue, it billows melon and stone fruit version of Chard won’t be for everyone, but fans with undertones of honey and sea salt. The palate of a broader, more full-bodied style will dig it. crunches with crystalline acidity wrapped up in tex- With a nose like perfume, it wafts ripe pineapple, Peregrine 2018 Pinot Gris (Central Otago). ture that is simultaneously slippery and powdery, dried mango, nougat and spicy, slightly soapy oak. 89 Unlike some New Zealand Pinot Gris, where with a long, salt-flecked finish. Drink now and over The oak-malolactic-lees combo feels more heavy- winemaking technique can mask varietal charac- the next few years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —C.P. handed on the palate, the former drying out the ter, Peregrine’s version feels less forced and more abv: 13% Price: $22 fruit somewhat and leaving a weighty, creamy food-friendly. Opening with delicate notes of hon- mouthfeel that’s wanting for more freshness. Wine eysuckle, pear and yeasty apple, plump, fleshy fruit Kumeu River 2018 Maté’s Vineyard Chardon- Spoken Here. —C.P. and a viscous texture follow on the palate. The rich 91 nay (Kumeu). Coming from the oldest of abv: 13% Price: $40 mouthfeel is lifted by crisp acidity, which veers a Kumeu’s vineyards (1990), this vintage of “Maté” little on the astringent side on the finish. Vineyard is not in any hurry. It’s very quiet, but is at peace Sacred Hill 2018 Chardonnay (Hawke’s Bay). Brands. —C.P. with its introspection. It needs to be decanted 87 A highly perfumed, straightforward Char- abv: 13.5% Price: $31

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Left Field 2018 Pinot Gris (Hawkes Bay). Sauvignon Blanc it stumbles with its Pinot Gris. it makes for easy summer sipping. Delegat USA, Inc. 88 Clever marketing and eye-catching labels There’s a lot of winemaking going on here to lack- Best Buy. —C.P. aside, this Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris doesn’t succeed in luster results. There’s seemingly a lot of sulfur on abv: 12.5% Price: $13 the deliciousness department as well at the label’s the nose and palate here, and the fruit feels a little Albariño does, but fans of rich, textural whites will synthetic, offering baked peach and pear with some Left Field 2018 Moon Shell Moth Rosé dig it. It’s a little candied and plastic at first and floral notes. The palate is rich and made in an off- 88 (Hawkes Bay). This is a straightforward then offers more appealing apple and pear strudel dry style, and while the acidity is fairly bright and rosé opening with ripe, bright watermelon and notes with time in the glass. The palate is viscous lifted, there’s a bitter note at the finish. Saranty strawberry notes that get wrapped into a creamy with ripe, fleshy orchard fruit, and the acidity is Imports. —C.P. texture on the palate. Acidity is lifted, nicely buoy- enough to lift it out of syrupy territory. Vision Wine abv: 13% Price: $19 ing the plump summery fruit. Vision Wine & Spir- & Spirits. —C.P. its. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 OTHER WHITE WINES Marisco Vineyards 2019 The Ned Pinot Gris Tiki 2018 Pinot Noir Rosé (Waipara). This 88 (Marlborough). This pale blush-colored Jules Taylor 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Marlbor- 87 pink sipper offers up some attractive rasp- Pinot Gris is a ripe, perfumed drop, dripping with 91 ough). Pale gold in hue, this wine offers a berry and spice notes, but it’s a bit volatile, teeter- cooked pears and melon, honeysuckle and baking perfume of pineapple and lemon juice flecked with ing toward vinegar territory. Acidity on the palate spices. There’s some residual sugar on the palate, herbs and honey. Highly textural, the oily mouthfeel feels a little forced, but it does provide refreshment just enough to emphasize the fruit and creamy tex- is buoyed by tangy fruit and finishes on a spicy note. amid the red berry fruit and slightly chalky texture. ture, but not enough to overpower the bright, lifted Try this alongside rich dishes like risotto or buttery A juicy, thirst-quenching drop. USA Wine West. acidity. Vinovia Wine Group/Marisco Vineyards lobster. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —C.P. —C.P. USA. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Left Field 2018 Duel Albariño (Gis- Palliser Estate 2018 Pinot Gris (Martin- 90 borne). This wine is vibrant yellow in color, SWEET WINES 88 borough). This is a rather bombastic yet with aromas of petrol, salt, honeysuckle, bay leaf crowd-pleasing Pinot Gris that billows a perfume and waxy lemon. The palate shows a nicely oily tex- Giesen 2014 The Brothers Late Harvest Sau- of frangipani blossoms, honeyed pears and orange ture, lifted by crunchy acidity and plenty of stone 94 vignon Blanc (Marlborough). This butter- peel. It’s attractive, if a little rich and synthetic. The and citrus fruit. Vision Wine & Spirits. —C.P. scotch-hued sticky is downright hedonistic. The palate is fresher than the nose suggests, although it abv: 13% Price: $16 highly perfumed nose explodes from the glass in comes with a creamy texture amid a bright line of rays of sun-drenched orchard fruit, candied pineap- acidity. Saranty Imports. —C.P. ples and orange slices, pressed yellow flowers, gin- abv: 13% Price: $23 SPARKLING WINE ger and honey. The palate is like liquid gold, unctu- ous and very sweet, with just enough acidity to buoy Waipapa Bay 2019 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). Nautilus NV Cuvée Méthode Traditionnelle the intensely concentrated fruit. The marmalade 88 A fruity, floral number bursting with hon- 90 Brut (Marlborough). On its lees for three finish is endlessly long. Indulge with a blue cheese eyed pears, cantaloupe, white flower blossoms and years, this bubbly, from one of at hand. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. a sprinkle of salt. It’s slippery in the mouth but not Marlborough’s quality-led producers, opens with a abv: 10% Price: $35 overtly creamy, with a bright line of fruit and flow- nose of citrus and green apple fruit, buttered toast, ers through the front and midpalate, but veering honey and yeast. On the palate there’s less opulence Jules Taylor 2018 Late Harvest Sauvignon toward bitterness at the back. Nevertheless, this is than the autolytic nose suggests, making the acidity 92 Blanc (Marlborough). This honey-colored an appealing alternative to those who don’t dig the feel a little sharp around the edges and wanting for still retains much of its varietal char- greenness of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. MHW, some creaminess, but there’s still a long citrusy fin- acter, just in an intensely concentrated guise. Fla- Ltd. —C.P. ish, bright bubbles and plenty of drinkability. Nego- vors like dried pineapple and guava, melted butter abv: 13% Price: $15 ciants USA–Winebow. —C.P. on brioche and dried green herbs are lifted by Marl- abv: 12% Price: $49 borough’s typical zing of elevated acidity, all wear- Yealands 2018 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). ing a sweet, but not overly so, cloak. Maritime Wine 87 This is a fruity, straightforward Pinot Gris Trading Collective. —C.P. offering up notes of cooked pear, grape juice and ROSÉS abv: 13.5% Price: $20/375 ml honeysuckle. The play between acidity and texture works, and the pear-flavored finish is appealing. It Mt. Beautiful 2019 Rosé (North Canterbury). feels a little worked winemaking-wise, but has the 89 The color of a sunset, this producer’s pink CHILE likability factor nonetheless. Palm Bay Interna- drink is a solid offering. Heady notes of red berries, tional. —C.P. watermelon and candied ginger billow from the CHARDONNAY abv: 13% Price: $15 glass. In the mouth it’s both creamy and refresh- ing, the fruit being washed across the tongue with Casas del Bosque 2017 Gran Reserva Char- Oyster Bay 2019 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). lifted acidity. There’s enough weight here to pair 87 donnay (Casablanca Valley). Forward oak 86 Though quite salty and reductive to start, this with a variety of summer dishes. Mt. Beautiful gives the nose on this Chardonnay a strong whiff of there’s plenty of ripe pear, stone fruit and honey USA. —C.P. popcorn and buttered apple. Creamy oak thickens lurking beneath. The palate lacks cohesion, with abv: 13.5% Price: $17 the palate feel, while this tastes of popcorn, spiced the sharp-edged acidity feeling disjointed from the pumpkin, melon and vanilla. A buttery character creamy texture and the fruit losing its way. Delegat Oyster Bay 2019 Rosé (Marlborough). Com- persists on a full finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. USA, Inc. —C.P. 89 bining both affordability and drinkability, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $13 this crowd-pleaser of a rosé is ballerina pink in color and just as delicate in the mouth. Fresh red Ritual 2017 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Fern Ridge 2019 Pinot Gris (Hawkes Bay). berries dance across the tongue, a chorus of ginger 87 Popcorn and generic white fruit aromas lead 85 Once again, where this brand excels in its and white spice in the wings. Crisp, bright and juicy, to a medium-bodied palate primed by racy acidity.

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BUYINGGUIDE

Popcorn, apple and melon flavors finish with nota- Casas del Bosque 2019 Reserva Sauvignon applesauce and dried white fruit flavors finish with ble acidity, lemony notes and a touch of pineapple. 86 Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Prickly aromas bitter notes. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. are true to form for basic Chilean SB, while this abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $21 feels simple and light on the palate. Melon, papaya and pyrazine-laced grassy flavors finish without Santa Ema 2018 Reserva Chardonnay much pop. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. OTHER WHITE WINES 86 (Leyda Valley). Melony, yeasty aromas come abv: 13.5% Price: $13 in front of a full, plump but flat palate that’s low on Casa Silva 2019 1912 Vines Estate Grown Sau- lift. Savory oak notes give this Chardonnay a woody Porta 2019 Reserva Estate Bottled Sauvi- 87 vignon Gris (Colchagua Valley). Mild white flavor profile, while white fruit flavors of melon and 86 gnon Blanc (Bío Bío Valley). Basic white fruit aromas are clean but neutral, while this feels apple fill this out. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. fruit aromas settle on melon and pear, while this is mildly citric on a light, minerally palate. Basic white —M.S. slightly dilute in feel. Generic citrus and white fruit fruit flavors include a touch of citrus in front of a abv: 13.5% Price: $15 flavors come with a note of pyrazines, while this is cleansing finish. Vine Connections. —M.S. mild on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Viña Chocalan 2018 Gran Reserva Origen abv: 12.5% Price: $13 86 Chardonnay (San Antonio). Nectarine and Estampa 2018 Reserva -Chardonnay an unusual hint of passion fruit set up an oily palate Santa Ema 2019 Select Terroir Reserva Sau- 85 (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of green banana, that’s full in weight. Oddly tropical flavors are salty 86 vignon Blanc (Maipo Valley). Light citrus tropical fruit and brine open this Viognier-domi- and suggest passion fruit, while this feels lively and aromas show a hint of green pyrazines, while this nant blend. Apple pie, spice and salt flavors burn tastes briny on the finish. Chocalan USA. —M.S. feels lightly spritzy and texturally green. Briny a bit as they fade out on a creamy finish. American abv: NA Price: $18 green-fruit flavors settle on bell pepper and simple Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. citrus on a finish with mild pyrazine-based bitter- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Casas del Bosque 2017 Reserva Chardonnay ness. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. 85 (Casablanca Valley). Woolly white fruit abv: 13% Price: $12 Valdivieso 2016 Éclat Curiosity Roussanne aromas and a gritty note of microwave popcorn 85 (Sagrada Familia). Clean but neutral aro- are the opening on this Chardonnay that’s pulpy in Viña Chocalan 2019 Reserva Viñedos Famili- mas are suggestive of apple, while this varietal feel. Melon and yeasty flavors lack follow through 85 ares Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Valley). Grassy Roussanne feels malic but not too sharp, like biting and finish short, with lasting buttery oak. Southern pyrazine and notes of passion fruit open this crisp, into a red apple. Generic white fruit flavors con- Starz, Inc. —M.S. zesty Sauvignon Blanc. Lime, passion fruit, tanger- clude on a clamping finish with high acidity and a abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ine peel and mild vegetal flavors finish fresh, with skins-like texture. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. cleansing acidity. Chocalan USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $13 SAUVIGNON BLANC J. Bouchon 2019 Pais Salvaje Blanco País Viña Chocalan 2019 Gran Reserva Origen 83 (Maule Valley). Yeasty, oily citrus peel aro- Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2019 84 Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio). Punchy mas lead to a chunky palate that’s blasting with 87 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Val- initial aromas of green herbs and passion fruit turn acidity. Salty green flavors are tart like underripe ley). Briny citrus aromas and a palate with notable more green the longer this sits. An acidic palate melon and stone fruits, while this white País feels acidity are par for the course for Chilean Sauvignon frames flavors of bell pepper, jalapeño and canned empty on a finish that tastes of . Vine Con- Blanc. Citrus, melon and mild green flavors fade out peas, with similar flavors on the finish. Chocalan nections. —M.S. on a clean finish. Taub Family Selections. —M.S. USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: NA Price: $18 Viña Bouchon 2018 Las Mercedes Singular Garces Silva 2019 Boya Sauvignon Blanc 80 Semillon (Maule Valley). Wheaty, grassy 87 (Leyda Valley). Cool-climate aromas of green VIOGNIER aromas are pyrazinic and low on fruit. On the pal- fruits and pyrazines set up a fresh palate. Tangerine ate, this Semillon feels vapid. Green flavors of scal- and pink grapefruit flavors are punchy, followed by Siegel 2018 Special Reserve Viognier (Col- lion, and jalapeño finish flat and waxy, with a coastal-style finish with salty notes. Vine Connec- 87 chagua Valley). Petrol and popcorn notes a note of oxidation. Universal Beverage Importer. tions. —M.S. are part of an oily, briny nose with tropical hints. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 A fleshy palate is full in volume and oily in feel, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 backed by grapefruit and tropical flavors. Lastly, Gran Verano 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Central controlled bitter notes rise up on the finish. Kysela 87 Valley). Mild citrus and green-herb aromas Père et Fils. —M.S. ROSÉS are standard, while this feels plump and a touch abv: 14.5% Price: $15 oily. Green fruit and generic citrus flavors get the Garces Silva 2019 Boya Rosé (Leyda Valley). job done before finishing clean and easy. Global Cono Sur 2018 Bicicleta Reserva Viognier 87 Clean but nonspecific mineral and fresh- Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 (Chile). Flat, resiny aromas suggest pine fruit aromas open this light-colored coastal rosé. abv: 13% Price: $23/3 L and banana pudding. This Viognier carries itself in A citrusy palate is juicy, while this tastes of orange a heavy and syrupy way, with ripe, resiny pineapple and grapefruit. Lasting citric notes hang around on Loma Larga 2019 Lomas del Valle Coastal flavors that finish short and abrupt. This is just past a fairly long finish. Vine Connections. —M.S. 87 Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca its peak in terms of freshness. Fetzer Vineyards. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Valley). Mild white fruit aromas of apple and green —M.S. fruits lead to a clean but mellow palate. Subdued abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Casas del Bosque 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé (Cas- citrus and lightly green flavors finish in regular 85 ablanca Valley). Citrus peel aromas are oily fashion. If you know Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc, Echeverria 2019 ¡No es Pituko! Natural Wine and modest, while this rosé of Pinot Noir is highly this is textbook but standard. W. Direct. —M.S. 82 Viognier (Curicó Valley). This unfiltered citric and skins-driven in terms of feel. Short, racy abv: 13.5% Price: $24 natural-­style Viognier smells pulpy and like apple juice. The palate is flat due to low acidity, while

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 tangerine flavors are bold but limited, while this is fresh finish. Restraint and balance are the keystones basic on the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. to this feminine-style PN. Kingston Family Vine- CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 12.5% Price: $13 yards. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Viña Don Melchor 2017 Puente Alto Vineyard Kingston Family 2018 Rosillo Syrah Rosé 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto). For full 85 (Casablanca Valley). Sulfur and citrus peel San Pedro 2018 1865 Selected Vineyards review see page 5. Cellar Selection. aromas lead to a linear, citric palate based mostly on 89 Pinot Noir (Elqui Valley). Raspberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $120 acid. Hence, this tastes tangy and citric, then yeasty currant aromas are earthy, spicy and popping, while and bready as it loses steam. Similarly, the finish this wine feels fresh, with red berry acidity help- Concha y Toro 2017 Gravas del Maipo Caber- starts out with blazing tartness before falling flat. ing to maintain balance and structure. Dry, spicy 94 net Sauvignon (Puente Alto). Savory aro- Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S. currant, raspberry and tomato flavors finish clean mas of olive, forest floor and oak spice blend seam- abv: 12% Price: $26 and light. It’s looking like 2018 was a good vintage lessly into black fruit scents, while this Cabernet for Chilean Pinot Noir. Shaw-Ross International from Puente Alto’s alluvial soils feels full, rich and Lagar de Bezana 2018 Rosado (Cachapoal Importers. —M.S. slightly creamy. Fully ripe blackberry flavors include 85 Valley). While this pink blend of Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $15 welcome herbal undertones, and on the finish this Sauvignon and Syrah opens with some harshness is chewy, meaty and slightly jammy. Drink through and not much in the way of fruit on the nose, it is Viña Casablanca 2018 Céfiro Cool Reserve 2028. Fetzer Vineyards. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. tightly bolstered by acidity. Vague citrusy flavors 89 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Lightly abv: 14.5% Price: $70 turn yeasty on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. spiced raspberry and currant aromas are natural for abv: 12.5% Price: $NA the variety and the Casablanca region. A juicy palate Concha y Toro 2017 Terrunyo Cabernet Sau- is tight and fresh, with punch. Spicy raspberry and 93 vignon (Pirque). Dark berry, rubber and Trasiego 2019 Rose Quartz Pinot Noir Rosé currant flavors follow the nose, while this is racy on brambly notes of wild brush open this well-built, 85 (Leyda Valley). A full nose offers hints of the finish. Overall this is a nice entry-level Pinot. saturated Cabernet. Spicy blackberry and herbal citrus peel along with pyrazines. While round on Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. flavors are pure Maipo-Pirque, while this shows the palate, the mouthfeel lacks pop. Grapefruit and abv: 14% Price: $NA integrated oak, chocolate and a mix of ripeness of citrus peel flavors are dry, and this is grabby on the fruit and freshness on the finish. Drink through finish. Via Pacifica Imports. —M.S. Cono Sur 2018 Organic Pinot Noir (Chile). For 2028. Fetzer Vineyards. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 88 full review see page 17. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Gillmore 2018 Mariposa Estate Bottled Old MontGras 2017 Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon 84 Vines Dry Farmed Rosé (Loncomilla Valley). Valdivieso 2017 Single Vineyard Hand 93 (Maipo Valley). Hefty dark-fruit aromas are Typical of País, this rosé smells rustic and gritty. 88 Crafted Barrel Aged Pinot Noir (Cauquenes earthy, moderately complex and exhibit total ripe- A plump palate is low on acidity and verve, mean- Valley). Light red fruit aromas are equaled by notes ness. On the palate, this is full but fresh, with a ing this feels sort of heavy. Melony, earthy flavors of hay, alfalfa and tomato. A ripe and round palate nice balance between tannic grip and purity of fruit. are mild on the finish. Global Vineyard Importers. feels a touch flat, while this Pinot tastes of rasp- Blackberry, dark cherry, oak spice and chocolate fla- —M.S. berry and light wood spice with a floral accent. vors are focused on a dry, firm finish. Drink through abv: 13% Price: $15 Herbal notes and a hint of soap flavor are found on 2030. Guarachi Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. the finish. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $40 PINOT NOIR Apaltagua 2017 Coleccion Limited Edition Santa Ema 2017 Amplus Cabernet Sauvignon Concha y Toro 2018 Marques de Casa Concha 87 Pinot Noir (San Antonio). Gritty aromas of 91 (Maipo Alto). For full review see page 13. 91 Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). Raspberry, cur- road tar and olive outmuscle fruit on the nose of abv: 14% Price: $30 rant and spiced red plum aromas are true to Pinot this live-wire, rather loud Pinot Noir. Plum, tomato Noir. On the palate, this is medium in body, bal- and salty flavors finish, propped up by tomato-like Casas del Toqui 2017 Gran Toqui Cabernet anced by fresh acidity and anchored by oak tannins. acidity and additional salt notes. Global Vineyard 90 Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Spicy dark- Oak spice, wood grain, plum and raspberry flavors Importers. —M.S. fruit aromas are solid, with an herbal accent that’s are steady on a finish that shows a hint of camp- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 common to Chilean Cabernet. A full, plump palate fire. Drink through 2021. Fetzer Vineyards.Editors’ is fleshy but balanced by lively acidity, while spicy Choice. —M.S. Porta 2018 Reserva Estate Bottled Pinot Noir oaky notes elevate dark-berry fruit flavors. On the abv: 13.5% Price: $22 87 (Bío Bío Valley). Light red fruit aromas are a finish, lingering but not overbearing cinnamon bit grassy, while the palate is slightly pinched and and clove notes warm things up. Monsieur Touton Kingston Family 2018 Alazan Pinot Noir emboldened by lemony acidity. Plum and cherry Selection Ltd. —M.S. 90 (Casablanca Valley). Light raspberry and flavors are citric, while a snappy finish is fresh abv: 14% Price: $25 currant aromas are elegant and not overripe, with but comes with the grab of grape skins. Saranty a hint of herbal green. On the palate, this remains Imports. —M.S. Château Los 2017 Vieilles Vignes light and feminine, with airy weight. Dry, spicy red abv: 13.5% Price: $13 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). berry flavors include hints of wood spice and green Plum, berry fruit and tree bark aromas form a herbs, while this finishes with raw dryness. Drink Casas del Bosque 2018 Reserva Pinot Noir classic Chilean Cabernet nose, while this is bright now. Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S. 85 (Casablanca Valley). Leafy red berry aromas and forward leaning on a zesty palate with good abv: 12.5% Price: $40 are stalky and suggest green tea, while this is fresh body. Plum, oak spice and herbal flavors work well in feel but shows grape skin rawness on the palate. together, while this finishes with a jolt of juicy acid- Kingston Family 2018 Tobiano Pinot Noir Dry red fruit flavors are a bit woodsy and earthy, ity. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. 90 (Casablanca Valley). Lightly herbal red while there’s some bitterness to the finish. South- abv: 14% Price: $20 fruit aromas are textbook for Pinot Noir, while this ern Starz, Inc. —M.S. feels medium in body. Spiced raspberry and water- abv: 14% Price: $13 Lagar de Codegua 2017 Reserva Caber- melon flavors are restrained and tread lightly on a 90 net Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Plum,

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BUYINGGUIDE cherry, oak spice and herbal aromas deliver a true a hint of pencil eraser sweetness. Next, a rambling, and saturated aromas of raisin and blueberry open Chilean Cabernet opening, while this feels lively jammy palate manages to show some structure, this concentrated Carmenère that’s somewhat soft and taut on the palate. Spicy plum and red berry while this tastes of herbal berry and plum. Tannic on the palate. Jammy dark-berry flavors are a touch flavors extend across a long finish; overall this is grip offsets a jammy character on the finish. Global peppery, while this shows mild heat and residual a winner in the important midtier range. Vino Del Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. burn on the finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Sol. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23/3 L —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $20 Santa Alba 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Casas del Toqui 2017 Terroir Selection Gran 85 (Central Valley). Asphalt, tire rubber and Viña Tarapacá 2018 Gran Reserva Carmenère 89 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Alto). wood smoke aromas sit heavily atop berry fruit 88 (Maipo Valley). A jammy nose with aromas Red fruit aromas show citrusy snap along with an on the nose. On the palate, this feels full but rub- of cherry cough drop and berry syrup is heavy, how- oaky influence. On the palate, this is flush and full, bery. Smoky black fruit flavors are pushy with the ever this feels more fresh on the palate, with an with herbal plum and oak spice flavors. A generous smoked character, but overall this is pretty good. acidic boost. Earthy berry and tomato-like flavors finish is centered on spice and zest, and overall this Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —M.S. are herbal and show a hint of chocolate, while this does not disappoint in any way. Monsieur Touton abv: 13% Price: $7 is smooth on the finish. —M.S. Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Casas del Bosque 2018 Reserva Cabernet 84 Sauvignon (Rapel Valley). Berry fruit aro- Santa Ema 2018 Select Terroir Reserva Car- Santa Ema 2017 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- mas hold up, then this is pinching on a gangly, 87 menère (Colchagua Valley). For full review 88 gnon (Maipo Valley). Aromas of spicy cherry tannic palate. Rubbery dark-fruit flavors finish see page 18. Best Buy. and plum mixed with herbs and olive are textbook with clamping tannins that come from grape skins. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 for Maipo Cabernet. A spunky mouthfeel driven by Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. lively acidity is a touch scrubbing in feel, while this abv: 14% Price: $13 Casas del Toqui 2018 Barrel Series Reserva tastes of cranberry, red plum and oak spice. Fresh- 86 Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Big aromas ness is retained through the finish. Pacific Highway Santa Ema 2018 Select Terroir Reserva Cab- of black fruits accented by green notes of mint and Wines & Spirits. —M.S. 84 ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Rubbery grass open this Carmenère. The palate is sappy and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 black fruit aromas are smoky and come with a green fairly heavy, with lemony oak ingrained into plum, note of juniper. A tight-as-nails palate tastes of foxy green herb and smoky flavors. Via Pacifica Imports. Casa Donoso 2018 Bicentenario Gran Reserva plum and berry fruit, while this is dealing raw tan- —M.S. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Ripe, nins on the finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. abv: 14% Price: $17 slightly candied and creamy berry aromas set up a —M.S. grabby, mouthfilling blend of plum and spiced berry abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Château Los Boldos 2018 Tradition Réserve flavors touched up by oak. Raw tannins make for a 84 Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Stewy, leafy hard finish. Airing and a good flank steak will help Farpoint 2018 Craftsman’s Collection Caber- aromas put up the red flag that this isn’t fully ripe. this show best. Palmateer Wine Group. —M.S. 83 net Sauvignon (Central Valley). Aromas of A tight, jumpy palate is clipped and confirms aus- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 tire rubber, campfire and forced oak bury any natu- terity. Flavors of tomato, green herbs and earthy red ral fruit aromas, while this feels gummy. Chocolaty plum turn salty on a light finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2018 oak and candied berry flavors finish soft, with stick- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 Los Vascos Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon iness from residual sugar. Aidil Wines/Old World (Colchagua Valley). Topped with the scent of tire Import. —M.S. rubber, this smells of mixed berry fruits. A full, abv: 13% Price: $10 MALBEC slightly tartaric-feeling palate offers blackberry, dark plum and grapy flavors prior to a big but lazy Casa Donoso 2018 Bicentenario Gran finish. For a mass-produced Cabernet, this is honest CARMENÈRE 90 Reserva Malbec (Maule Valley). Ripe berry and good. Taub Family Selections. —M.S. and vanilla aromas are earthy, creamy and invit- abv: 14% Price: $14 MontGras 2018 Antu Carmenère (Peumo). ing, while this Maule Malbec exhibits a bold palate 91 Dark-fruit aromas are fully ripe—almost with tannic grip. Spicy oak and natural darkness Casa Donoso 2018 Evolución Reserva Cab- raisiny—and come with a sweet hint of marshmal- back up robust plum and cassis flavors, while this is 85 ernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Red fruit low. A lush palate is full and pulpy but maintains a steady on the finish, with juicy acidity maintaining aromas are bright more than rich. A racy palate goes sense of balance. Flavors of herbal plum and berry brightness. Palmateer Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. aggressive with acidity and tannins, while plum, fruits are chocolaty and on the rich side, while this —M.S. cherry and cocoa flavors sizzle on a long but super- is smooth and plush on the finish. Guarachi Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ficial finish. Palmateer Wine Group. —M.S. Partners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Vistamar 2018 Sepia Reserva Malbec (Maule 86 Valley). Loud berry aromas are spicy and Château Los Boldos 2018 Grande Réserve Viña Maipo 2018 Gran Devoción Single Vine- a touch green, with a vanilla-oak offset, while a 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). 89 yard Carmenère (Peumo). Spicy cherry and juicy, narrow palate is high in energy and loaded Plum and cherry aromas are slightly soapy in front berry aromas come with the expected herbal char- with cranberry, plum and cherry flavors. Complex- of a snappy palate that’s wide awake with rubbery acter that good Carmenère generally offers. This ity isn’t a big part of this bright Malbec. Saranty tannins and bright acidity. Screeching red berry is full in body but not overbearingly heavy, while Imports. —M.S. and cherry flavors teeter with sour acid notes, while flavors of salty, herbal black plum and berry fruits abv: 13.5% Price: $14 this is grinding and tannic on the finish. Evaton, Inc. fade away slowly on a fresh, snappy finish. Fetzer —M.S. Vineyards. —M.S. Chilensis 2018 Reserva Estate Bottled Mal- abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 85 bec (Maule Valley). Floral plum and berry aromas come with notes of cotton candy and animal Gran Verano 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- Casas del Toqui 2018 Terroir Selection Gran fur. A bright and lively palate is ramped up with red 85 tral Valley). Raisiny berry aromas come with 88 Reserva Carmenère (Peumo). A dark color berry flavors, green notes and saucy accents, while

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 this Malbec is smacking but fresh on the finish. Concha y Toro 2018 Serie Riberas Gran Vik 2013 La Piu Belle (Cachapoal Valley). Total Beverage Solution. Best Buy. —M.S. 89 Reserva Ribera del Loncomilla Syrah (San 92 Ripe berry, plum and prune aromas are abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Javier). Grapy berry and black cherry aromas are mature and earthy, with a note of desiccation. A jumpy and youthful, while this is all about fruit on a fleshy, plump palate is smooth but lacking in edge, Original NV Malbec (Central palate that’s untamed and unsettled. Big, ripe, grapy while this blend of Carmenère, Cabernet and Syrah 84 Valley). Gamy aromas of plum and berry flavors are gamy and hulking, while this stays full tastes of black plum and cassis with a spot of green include a note of olive. A sappy palate shows good and sappy on an extracted finish. Fetzer Vineyards. herbs mixed in. A smooth finish says drink now. balance and a mix of creamy depth and tannins, —M.S. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. while this tastes of foxy berry fruits and lightly can- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $100 died oak. Precept Wine. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $25/3 L Viña Bisquertt 2018 La Joya Gran Reserva Valdivieso 2016 Caballo Loco Grand Cru 85 Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Floral berry aro- 91 (Sagrada Familia). Upfront aromas of euca- mas buckle with airing, while this feels snappy but lyptus and green herbs announce a crisp and pyr- CABERNET FRANC without much backing. Punchy red fruit flavors azinic red from a vintage that was notoriously wet come with a tropical accent of pineapple, while this and difficult. Herbal plum and currant flavors con- Haras de Pirque 2016 Galantas Gran Reserva is grapy feeling on a solid finish. Universal Beverage clude on a tight, firm finish loaded with dry tannins. 91 Cabernet Franc (Maipo Valley). Berry and Importer. —M.S. Given the challenges of 2016, this is commendable. plum aromas come with varietal green-leaf accents. abv: 14% Price: $15 Drink through 2024. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. A solid palate is a bit choppy and tannic, while dark- abv: 13.5% Price: $36 berry, plum, spice and chocolate flavors wrap up on Bodegas Tagua Tagua 2018 Syrah (Central a flush finish with residual herbal notes. Drink this 82 Valley). Grainy cherry and strawberry aro- Vik 2016 Milla Cala Millahue (Cachapoal Val- surprisingly excellent Cab Franc through 2023. Ste. mas battle against weedy notes, while this Syrah is 91 ley). Berry, raisin and vanilla aromas open Michelle Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. hard at all checkpoints. Candied plum and a weird this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carme- abv: 13% Price: $30 tropical flavor do what they can to stir interest. nère, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. On the palate, this Senic International Corp. —M.S. is thick and dense, with grabby tannins. Herbal Calcu 2017 Reserva Especial Cabernet Franc abv: 13% Price: $6 berry and cassis flavors finish with notes of green 89 (Colchagua Valley). This Cab Franc punches herbs common to many 2016 Chilean reds. Drink above its weight (and price) class. While the nose through 2025. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. is mostly made up of generic but ripe berry aromas, RED BLENDS abv: 14% Price: $45 there’s a note of grilled meat that is appealing. On the palate, this is solid and fresh, but tannic. Lightly Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2016 Casas del Toqui 2015 Leyenda (Cachapoal herbal black plum, cherry and berry flavors are bol- 93 Le Dix de Los Vascos Estate Grown Red (Col- 90 Valley). Jammy berry aromas are friendly stered by clampy tannins on the finish. Global Vine- chagua Valley). For full review see page 7. but soft, while this is similar on the palate, mean- yard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $70 ing fleshy. Plump berry and plum flavors are jammy abv: 13.5% Price: $14 and don’t show much spice or other accents, while Vik 2014 Millahue (Cachapoal Valley). Saucy the finish on this Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend Valdivieso 2015 Single Vineyard Old Vines 93 plum, berry fruit, olive, tobacco and dry oak is chunky and a bit flabby. Drink now. Via Pacifica 88 Barrel Aged Cabernet Franc (Sagrada aromas say Chile all the way. This Bordeaux blend Imports. —M.S. Familia). Spicy red fruit aromas are more basic than is solid on the palate, with grip coming from firm abv: 14% Price: $80 detailed, while this Cab Franc is fairly lean, raw and tannins. Plum, black cherry and herbal notes of sage sappy on the palate. Plum and currant flavors are and thyme extend over a long finish with smacking Cono Sur 2018 Organically Grown Grapes Cab- fresh in front of a lighter-bodied, scratchy finish. tannins. Drink through 2024. Guarachi Wine Part- 87 ernet Sauvignon-Carmenere-Syrah (Chile). Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. ners. —M.S. Medicinal red fruit aromas lead to a rubbing, tannic abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $165 palate. Red berry and red plum flavors are fresh and lively, while this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Car- Calcu 2013 Winemaker’s Selection Red (Col- menère and Syrah is tasty and snappy on a medium- SYRAH 92 chagua Valley). Aromas of dry oak, graphite depth finish. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. and cherry and berry fruits come together nicely, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Casas del Bosque 2017 Gran Reserva Syrah with patented Chilean hints of foresty green herbs 91 (Casablanca Valley). Dark, minty aromas of poking through. This Bordeaux blend is firm and Estampa 2016 Gran Reserva Molino de Viento mentholated blackberry and a pitch-black color juicy, with dry, spicy flavors of plum and currant 87 Vineyard Carmenère-Syrah-Cabernet Sau- announce this lush and layered Syrah. Dark, gamy touched up by oak and related chocolate. An elegant vignon (Marchigue). Cool-climate aromas of briny berry flavors include graphite and chocolaty oak finish is finessed and doesn’t push too hard. Drink funk announce this blend’s Marchigue roots com- notes, while coffee takes over on a ripe, full-weight through 2024. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. bined with a lack of ripeness stemming from 2016’s finish. This is massive in style. Drink through 2024. abv: 14% Price: $45 El Niño conditions. That said, this is not a bad blend Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. of 85% Carmenère along with Syrah and Cabernet abv: NA Price: $20 Siegel 2015 Unique Selection Los Lingues Sauvignon. Green, pyrazinic flavors finish with 92 Red (Colchagua Valley). Herbal berry and roughness and green tannins. American Estates Concha y Toro 2017 Marques de Casa Concha olive aromas control the nose on this blend of Cab- Wines, Inc. —M.S. 90 Syrah (Buin). Bright black fruit aromas are ernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah. The palate abv: 14% Price: $18 the greeting on this grapy, extracted Syrah. Intense shows tartaric bite and related edginess, while fla- blackberry and plum flavors are charged up and kind vors of dark berry fruits, vanilla and raisin reflect J. Bouchon 2018 Canto Sur (Maule Valley). of heavy, while needed acidity brings the finish back the warmth that reigned over Chile in 2015. A 85 Lightly concentrated currant aromas come to the center, leaving ripe and sappy leftovers. Drink rough, somewhat short finish shows some heat and with a note of grass and compost. This blend of or hold through 2023. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. fire. Drink through 2024. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Carmenère, Carignan and País feels crisply acidic, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $33 which results in snappy cherry and red plum flavors

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BUYINGGUIDE and a crunchy, rubbing finish. Vine Connections. that rank as racy and green. This SB feels oily and Chardonnay and Pinot Gris feels plump and bal- —M.S. somewhat round, while flavors of grassy lime finish anced by bright acidity. Salty, dry flavors of melon abv: 13.5% Price: $15 juicy but sharp. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S. and stone fruits are quiet on the fade. Cork Alliance. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 —M.S. Oveja Negra 2018 Reserva Cabernet Franc- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 84 Carmenère (Maule Valley). Raw red fruit Narbona 2019 Puerto Carmelo Sauvignon aromas are wiry and a touch stalky, while this is 80 Blanc (Uruguay). This is a lacking Sauvi- El Capricho 2019 (Uruguay). But- fresh but limited on the palate. Raspberry, cherry gnon Blanc that smells underripe and like some- 84 tercup and citrus aromas struggle to stay and vague chocolaty flavors are light on the finish. thing that’s corked despite a closure. A fresh, with a note of oxidation appearing. This Total Beverage Solution. —M.S. flat palate and dull flavors end with yeasty notes Verdejo feels plump but also high in acidity. Melony abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and oxidation. Tasted twice with similar findings. flavors of papaya and dried cheese finish short and Vine Pro Imports. —M.S. salty, with almost no fruit carrying over. Lanciano Oveja Negra 2018 Reserva Malbec-Petit Ver- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Imports Inc. —M.S. 84 dot (Maule Valley). Punch-bowl red plum abv: 12% Price: $15 and currant aromas set up a crisp, dry palate that’s lean and scratchy. Similar to the nose, this Malbec- OTHER WHITE WINES Pisano 2019 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Tor- Petit Verdot tastes of red plum and red currant, 83 rontés (Progreso). Lychee, lemon-lime and with a hint of red licorice candy. A dry, edgy finish Establecimiento Juanico 2019 Vino Natural pineapple aromas are strong at first but lose steam is rubbing in feel. Total Beverage Solution. —M.S. 88 Naranja Bizarra Extravaganza White (Uru- and clarity with time in the glass. A yeasty, oily pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 guay). A burnished gold color and lightly oxidized ate has some citric cut, while the flavor profile on aromas of spiced pumpkin and dried apricots lead this Torrontés is sour and salty, but also waxy and The Seeker 2018 Red (Central Valley). A can- to a round and pulpy palate with modest acidity. flowery. Tart citrus notes remain on a salty tasting 82 died nose full of vanilla and marshmallow This made from Petit and Gros Man- finish. Total Wine & More. —M.S. smells false, while the palate is thick and grabby. seng grapes tastes of spiced squash and bitter skins, abv: 13% Price: $15 Artificial flavors of oak and milk chocolate are while a chai flavor controls the finish. Cork Alliance. gooey, and this is clinging and sticky on the finish. —M.S. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 SPARKLING WINE abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Bouza 2019 Albariño (Montevideo). Pleasant Cerro Chapeu 2014 Sust Brut Nature (Uru- 87 but generic white fruit aromas don’t suggest 83 guay). Mild white fruit aromas suggest basic OTHER RED WINES Albariño while coming across slightly pyrazinic and fruit salad, while this tastes vaguely of dried papaya sharp. An oily, round mouthfeel and briny melon and apple. Almost no fruit or character is found on Siegel 2017 Single Vineyard Los Lingues Petit flavors finish with lasting briny notes and a hint of a bland, mostly tasteless finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. 89 Verdot (Colchagua Valley). Interesting aro- peach. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25 mas of violet petal, berry fruit and graphite lead to abv: 13.5% Price: $27 a flush palate that’s severely tannic and rubbing. Blackberry and vanilla flavors are quite nice, but the Viña Progreso 2019 Overground Viognier ROSÉS finishing mouthfeel is raw and gravelly, much like 87 (Progreso). Lemon peel aromas are tight downing a box of nails. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. and limited, while this Viognier is low in alcohol Artesana 2019 Tannat Rosé (Canelones). A abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and thus lean in body. Salty, tangy lemon flavors 89 full bouquet of red apple and dried plum lead to a healthy finish. Overall, this exhibits good aromas goes beyond what’s normal for South Amer- Bodegas Tagua Tagua 2018 Des Complicados balance although it lacks the typical oily and floral ican rosé. On the palate, this is sizable with good 84 Barbera (Maule Valley). Dried berry fruit, character Viognier is known for. Copa Fina Imports body as well as balance. Dried plum and stone fruit chemical oak and vanilla aromas feed into a clipped CA. —M.S. flavors finish fresh. Austral Estates Wines.Best palate with hard tannins and citric acidity. This Bar- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Buy. —M.S. bera tastes of mint, cherry and green berry fruits, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 while the finish is tight and snappy, with aggressive Cerro Chapeu 2019 Reserva Single Estate intensity. Senic International Corp. —M.S. 86 Chardonnay (Uruguay). Highly aromatic Garzón 2019 Reserva Pinot Noir Rosé (Uru- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 scents of citrus peel and lychee are uncommon for 88 guay). Mild aromas are clean and simple, Chardonnay and indicate that this bright number as is the rest of this rosé of Pinot Noir. A medium- saw little to no oak. A lively palate is fueled by juicy intensity palate is easygoing, with standard acid- URUGUAY acidity, while this tastes of flowery lime prior to a ity. Generic, well-accepted rosé flavors finish clean stony but short finish. This is unusual but good and and lightly citric. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. SAUVIGNON BLANC clean. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $20 Garzón 2019 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Uru- 86 guay). A mild nose is more neutral than Alto de la Ballena 2018 Viognier (Maldo- varietally punchy or stout. On the palate, this is 85 nado). Grassy white fruit aromas come with PINOT NOIR fairly lean and light, with tangy acidity fueling the a chemical note, while this is plump and pulpy in engine. Sharp tangerine and orange flavors linger feel. Initial melony flavors turn bready and lightly Garzón 2018 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Uru- on a short finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. oxidized before finishing with plump weightiness. 85 guay). Mild, lightly leafy aromas open this —M.S. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. simple Pinot Noir. Herbal raspberry and plum fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 vors are light and peppery, while this is tight and drying on the finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spir- Gimenez Mendez 2019 Alta Reserva Sauvi- Establecimiento Juanico 2019 Don Pascual its. —M.S. 84 gnon Blanc (Canelones). Heavy pyrazines on 85 Coastal White (Uruguay). Melony aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $30 the nose result in punchy citrus and feline aromas are a touch stalky, while this blend of Albariño,

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Pizzorno 2018 Reserva Pinot Noir (Canelo- is rich and sappy in feel, with edgy tannins and fiery Viña Progreso 2018 Overground Tannat 83 nes). Resiny, lemony oak aromas push the intensity that’s to be expected from a 15.5% abv 89 (Progreso). Pure cherry and plum aromas nose toward spice and cola. Mostly skins and acid- Tannat. Baked berry, heavy oak and malted flavors are ripe and clean. On the palate, this Tannat feels ity prime the mouthfeel on this dry, salty Pinot that finish creamy and full. Drink through 2024. Elixir flush and fruity, with some fluff to the body. Plum, goes heavy on spice and dried tomato flavors. MYB Wine Group. —M.S. wild berry and a dash of pepper comprise the flavors Imports. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 prior to a finish that’s firm and fresh, with bright abv: 13% Price: $20 acidity keeping everything vigorous. Copa Fina Familia Deicas 2018 Atlántico Sur Tannat Imports CA. —M.S. Cerro Chapeu 2017 Reserva Single Estate 91 (Juanico). For full review see page 12. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 80 Pinot Noir (Uruguay). Leafy murky aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $22 precede a shrill palate that’s all acid. Sour plum Antigua Bodega 2013 Osiris Reserva Tannat and cranberry flavors follow before this comes to a Familia Deicas 2015 Massimo Deicas Cru Tan- 88 (Canelones). Heavy black fruit aromas are screeching halt. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. 91 nat (Uruguay). Ripe, earthy blackberry and spicy but also soupy and woody, with a strong whiff abv: 13% Price: $18 prune aromas are a touch cheesy, while this feels of wood-based clove. A sappy, sticky palate shows a full and jammy but with fine-grained chalky tan- resiny oak character, while this bulky Tannat tastes nins. Cassis, prune and blackberry flavors are fully of raw oak, stewed black fruits and black coffee in CABERNET FRANC dark, while this ripe Tannat is warm and fiery on a front of a roasted finish. MYB Imports. —M.S. grabby finish. Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Garzón 2018 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Uru- abv: 14% Price: $160 90 guay). For full review see page 15. Bodegas Carrau 2015 Amat Tannat (Uru- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Pisano 2017 RPF Tannat (Progreso). Earthy 88 guay). Ripe aromas of black cherry and 91 berry aromas unfold slowly in front of a tight, prune are spicy and in good shape, while this feels Alto de la Ballena 2015 Reserva Cabernet snappy palate. Plum, cassis and oak flavors wind medium to full in body, with bracing acidity. Plum, 89 Franc (Maldonado). Spicy notes of cin- down on a scratchy finish with pulling, dry tannins. currant, vanilla and oaky flavors finish with a saucy namon and clove lead earthy plum aromas, while This Tannat tastes right and is full of energy but tomato character and a sense of freshness. Bluewine this Cab Franc is grabby and rubbery in feel. Oaky, needs food to go with its tannic profile. Total Wine Distributors. —M.S. woody clove and berry fruit flavors are full and sat- & More. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 isfying on a solid finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $22 El Capricho 2018 Tannat (Durazno). Ripe Pizzorno 2017 Reserva Tannat (Canelones). 88 aromas of blackberry, brandied cherry and Bracco Bosca 2018 Gran Ombú Cabernet 91 On the nose, this sappy Tannat with aromas vanilla lead to a bright palate that’s staunchly tan- 88 Franc (Atlantida). Raisiny berry aromas are of blueberry and vanilla straddles the line between nic and rubbery. Salty berry, plum and spice flavors accented by vanilla on a nose that’s hard to iden- ripe and overdone. A fully extracted palate deals taste natural and finish with tannic roughness. Lan- tify as Cabernet Franc. A smacking, grabby palate is saturated flavors of blackberry, black plum and ciano Imports Inc. —M.S. rambling, while this tastes mostly of spicy oak and exotic spices like cardamom. Oak rises up on a wide abv: 13.5% Price: $15 berry fruits. On the finish, this is loud but short on finish that remains properly fruity and balanced. elegance and harmony. MYB Imports. —M.S. MYB Imports. —M.S. El Capricho 2017 Reserve Tannat (Durazno). abv: 13.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 88 Initially, this Tannat smells like a cup of black coffee; after airing, it settles on charred oak Garzón 2017 Petit Clos Block #560 Caber- Bouza 2018 Tannat (Montevideo). This and lemon peel. A fresh but tannic palate deals 88 net Franc (Uruguay). Earthy, chunky berry 90 midnight black, heavily extracted Tannat snappy, sappy berry flavors along with raw oak aromas are inexact and a touch funky, while a dry, is like a trip 20 years back in time to when bigger and citrus notes. On the finish, this runs long but sinewy palate is extracted and overweight. Earthy, was better. A reduced nose is syrupy and rich, while dry due to grinding tannins. Lanciano Imports Inc. saucy plum and berry flavors are herbal, then olive this feels lush but with healthy core acidity. Black- —M.S. and beefy notes appear on a thick finish. Pacific ened toast, licorice and peppercorn flavors sit atop abv: 14% Price: $24 Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. Port-like blackberry and cassis. Elixir Wine Group. abv: 14% Price: $70 —M.S. Narbona 2015 Roble Tannat (Uruguay). A abv: 14.5% Price: $27 88 saturated dark color and raisiny aromas Viña Progreso 2018 Overground Cabernet suggest a wine whose grapes caught a lot of sun in 86 Franc (Progreso). Reedy aromas of mulchy Establecimiento Juanico 2018 Don Pascual the vineyard. On the palate, this Tannat is jammy red plum set up a palate with rubbing, scratchy tan- 90 Coastal Tannat (Uruguay). For full review and saturated in feel. Flavors of raisin and prune are nins. Soupy plum, tomato and red berry flavors fin- see page 17. Best Buy. sunbaked, while this is dominated by dry tannins on ish shallow and with earthy overtones. While good, abv: 14% Price: $15 a sappy finish. Vine Pro Imports. —M.S. calling this Cab Franc fresh and clean would be an abv: 14.5% Price: $39 overstatement. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. Garzón 2018 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). For abv: 14% Price: $22 90 full review see page 15. Pizzorno 2018 Don Próspero Tannat (Uru- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 guay). Mixed berry fruit, cinnamon and earth aromas comprise the nose on this medium- TANNAT Artesana 2017 Reserva Tannat (Canelones). bodied Tannat that comes across as fleshy at first, 89 Ripe, oaky black fruit aromas are powerful then lighter in body. Berry, dark plum and spice Garzón 2018 Single Vineyard Tannat (Uru- more than complex. Ditto the palate, which feels flavors are fresh on a slightly grating finish. For 92 guay). For full review see page 10. jammy and extracted. Heavy flavors of blackberry, value Tannat from Uruguay, this is very good. MYB abv: 14.5% Price: $30 vanilla and chocolate end on a lengthy, rich finish Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. with a lot of oak character. This Tannat fits into abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Bouza 2017 Parcela Única B6 Tannat (Canelo- the mold of very good but heavily worked. Austral 91 nes). Ripe, malty berry aromas are baked and Estates Wines. —M.S. Cerro Chapeu 2016 Ysern Blend of Regions come with notes of Bourbon barrel and raisin. This abv: 14.2% Price: $19 87 Gran Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). Berry and

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BUYINGGUIDE plum aromas are lightly oaked and clean. A firm grip set up a slamming palate, while chunky, blasting scratchy in feel, with rough tannins. Powerful oak- is attached to snappy plum, currant and tomato fla- cherry, cough drop and tomato flavors are bold and driven flavors of black plum and black cherry fin- vors, while this blend of Tannat from two different hold nothing in reserve. MYB Imports. —M.S. ish with lactic flavor notes and lasting kick. MYB parts of Uruguay feels choppy and slightly abrasive abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Imports. —M.S. through a finish with salty flavor notes. MHW, Ltd. abv: 13% Price: $14 —M.S. Pisano 2018 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Tannat abv: NA Price: $25 81 (Progreso). Foxy, lactic red fruit aromas are El Capricho 2018 Tannat Blend (Durazno). A jumpy, and after that comes a narrow, tannic pal- 87 rusty, earthy color and rubbery berry and Gimenez Mendez 2017 Alta Reserva Tannat ate. Metallic, almost fishy plum and currant flavors asphalt aromas open this Tannat blend. On the pal- 87 (Canelones). A rough nose with raw oak, finish with rough tannins and overbearing acidity. ate, this feels wayward and shy on focus. Cherry and black fruit, asphalt, sugar beet and grassy aromas Considering that 2018 was a very good vintage in plum flavors finish with rubbing tannins. Lanciano is more stocky than elegant. This Tannat feels gritty Uruguay, this is weak. Total Wine & More. —M.S. Imports Inc. —M.S. and tough, while upfront oak character creates a abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $15 spicy flavor profile that includes clove and pepper steak notes. A heavy sense of oak carries over to the Familia Deicas 2018 Single Vineyard Garzón finish, which is hard and gravelly in feel. Vidalco RED BLENDS 86 Maldonado (Uruguay). Floral blackberry International, LLC. —M.S. aromas are lightly spiced, while this blend of Mer- abv: 14% Price: $22 Alto de la Ballena 2015 Reserva Tannat- lot, Tannat, Marselan and Petit Verdot feels bright 91 Viognier (Maldonado). Aromas of spicy black and grapy. Dark berry, salt and bitterness meet on a Antigua Bodega 2017 Pedregal Roble Tannat fruits, asphalt, nutmeg and chocolate announce this bold finish driven by juicy acidity and loud tannins. 86 (Canelones). Blackberry and boysenberry full and tight blend of Tannat and Viognier. Herbal Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.S. aromas come with a heavy topping of creamy oak plum, berry and oak-based flavors of chocolate and abv: 12.5% Price: $35 that gives this Tannat a candied nose. A sticky pal- spice finish big and healthy, with rubbery tannins ate is cut by acidity, while flavors of marshmallow, and a restrained sense of power. Classic Wines, Inc. Pizzorno 2018 Don Próspero Tannat-Malbec milk chocolate and vanilla dominate. A short finish Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 86 (Uruguay). Ripe, jammy berry and vanilla is the final verdict that this is mostly about forced abv: 14% Price: $20 aromas come with a note of raisin. This Tannat- oak. MYB Imports. —M.S. Malbec blend is fleshy, but a wall of jangly acidity abv: 13% Price: $14 Garzón 2017 Balasto (Uruguay). For full means the palate is disjointed. Snappy plum, berry, 91 review see page 12. vanilla and raisin flavors finish a little out of tune. Gimenez Mendez 2018 100 Años Reserva abv: 14% Price: $120 MYB Imports. —M.S. 86 Familiar Tannat (Canelones). An opaque abv: 13% Price: $12 purple color and heavily extracted aromas of jammy Bouza 2017 Monte Vide Eu Tannat-Merlot- blackberry and juniper open this viscous Tannat. 90 Tempranillo (Montevideo). A hefty nose Establecimiento Juanico 2018 Don Pascaul Sappy flavors of skins-driven berry and black plum smells of barnyard, warm earth and sappy black 85 (Uruguay). Jumpy berry and plum aromas see oak rise up on a toasty finish that’s bulky and fruits. A smacking, tannic palate pulls inward, while come with a whiff of animal. An amorphous pal- choppy. MSJ Wine, The Wall Street Journal. —M.S. this weighty blend of Tannat, Merlot and Tempra- ate has no focal point, while blueberry and prune abv: 14% Price: $22 nillo tastes of prune, dried berry fruits, chocolate flavors finish jammy and flat like the palate, with and saucy tomato. A fiercely tannic finish grinds as rubbing tannins. Cork Alliance. —M.S. Viña Progreso 2018 Revolution Tannat (Pro- this simmers down. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 86 greso). Foxy berry aromas include notes of abv: 14.5% Price: $62 wet animal fur, red licorice candy and minerals. A Bracco Bosca 2018 Gran Ombú Blend #13 tangy, zingy palate is racy and angular, while this Alto de la Ballena 2015 Tannat-Merlot- 84 (Atlantida). Earthy berry aromas smell Tannat is bright and tastes of currant and cran- 89 Cabernet Franc (Maldonado). Initially this artificial due to an abundance of milky, chocolaty berry. Blaring acidity ensures that this remains blend of Tannat, Merlot and Cabernet Franc smells oak. This blend is heavy on the palate, with resiny, snappy throughout. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. soupy and furry, but airing allows berry fruit aro- woody flavors of chocolate and sappy berry fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 mas to clean up and for spicy notes to emerge. A Clove is the standout flavor on the finish. MYB crisply acidic palate is lively and tannic, while this Imports. —M.S. Bracco Bosca 2018 Ombú Reserve Tan- tastes of spiced cherry, plum, cola and chocolate. On abv: 13.5% Price: $60 85 nat (Atlantida). Pasty berry aromas are the finish, a hint of prune attests to the wine’s ripe- matched by milk chocolate and creamy bean-like ness. Classic Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Familia Deicas 2018 Extreme Vineyards Cerro scents. This is fairly thick and resiny on the palate, abv: 13.9% Price: $14 84 del Guazuvirá (Uruguay). Foxy, cheesy aro- with chewy tannins. Heavy oak creates lactic, choc- mas create a layer of funk on top of plum and berry olaty flavors, while this is medicinal on the finish. El Capricho 2017 Reserve Tannat-Cabernet aromas. This blend of Merlot, Tannat, Petit Verdot MYB Imports. —M.S. 89 Sauvignon (Durazno). On first take, rasp- and Viognier is uncommon in composition and feels abv: 13.5% Price: $23 berry and plum aromas seem furry and a touch snappy but also rubbery and tannic. Spunky, herbal grassy, but with time this Tannat-Cabernet blend plum and berry flavors are outright foxy and finish Gimenez Mendez 2018 Viña Las Brujas Tan- clears up. A sappy palate with firm tannins is a bit with animal notes and jumpy acidity. Paul Hobbs 85 nat (Canelones). Bulky berry and dark plum collapsed but not unbalanced, while jammy plum, Selections. —M.S. aromas are foxy and unfocused, with toasty oak berry and oak spice flavors fade out on a dense fin- abv: NA Price: $45 lurking. A pinched, tannic palate is hard and rub- ish. Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. bery, while this tastes of salty black fruits along with abv: 13% Price: $24 Pisano 2018 Río de los Pájaros Reserve (Pro- cola. A wiry finish pulls downward due to clamping 83 greso). Candied cherry and berry aromas tannins. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S. Antigua Bodega 2017 Pedregal Roble Tan- are spunky and foxy, while a wiry, clamping palate abv: 13% Price: $15 88 nat-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Canelo- is blazing with acidity. This blend of Tannat, Syrah nes). Oaky spice and berry fruit aromas combine and Viogner tastes of cranberry and salty currant Bracco Bosca 2018 Ombú Tannat (Atlan- forces to create a good but generic nose. This 84 tida). Hard-hitting generic berry aromas blend of Tannat, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 backed by a tight finish that’s clampy like the palate. Casa Perini NV Charmat Brut (Serra Gaúcha). Aveleda 2018 Aveleda Loureiro Colheita Total Wine & More. —M.S. 87 Yeasty white flower aromas suggest liquid 89 Seleccionada (Vinho Verde). A finely per- abv: 13% Price: $18 soap, while this has the feeling of pulpy orange fumed and ripe wine, this is dry but softened by juice. Mild citrus flavors don’t offer much on the its great fruitiness. Red apples and lime flavors are Narbona 2018 Puerto Carmelo Tannat-­ finish, but for a basic brut this is authentic and spread liberally throughout this lively, ready-to- 81 Cabernet Franc (Uruguay). Tar and compost solid. Aiko Inc. —M.S. drink wine. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. aromas shroud less than ripe berry scents. On the abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA palate, this Tannat-Cabernet Franc blend feels saucy and reduced. Soupy, tomatoey plum flavors Doña Laura 2017 Cuvée Demi-Sec (Serra Vila Nova 2019 Vinho Verde. Beautifully finish short and vacuous. Vine Pro Imports. —M.S. 85 Gaúcha). Dusty apple aromas come in front 86 fruity with just the lightest prickle on the abv: 14.5% Price: $14 of a creamy, soft palate that’s low on acidity and tongue, the wine is a very drinkable, dry style of bubbles. Fleshy papaya and dried apple flavors are Vinho Verde. Its citrus edge gives the wine a lively sweet and honeyed on the finish, which you should final lift. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. OTHER RED WINES expect from a demi-sec. The Imported Grape LLC. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 —M.S. Garzón 2018 Reserva Marselan (Uruguay). abv: 12% Price: $16 Aveleda NV Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho 85 This rare Marselan is typically black in 85 Verde). An off-dry classic, now in its 80th color as well as grapy but sadly monotone in scent. year as a brand, from Vinho Verde, this wine is A hugely tannic palate is like an avalanche of berry RED WINES refreshing with a crisp edge to its gentle fruitiness. power along with prune, pepper and grape skin fla- The wine is ready to drink. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. vors. Grapy tannins stay along for the ride on a rub- Casa Perini 2014 Qu4tro Red (Serra Gaúcha). abv: 11.5% Price: $NA bery finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. 85 Charred, lemony oak gives this Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Sauvignon blend a burnt, crispy outlook. Lemony oak Aveleda NV Casal Garcia Sweet (Vinho and woody tannins create a grainy mouthfeel, while 84 Verde). A light prickle and bright acidity are Antigua Bodega 2015 Prima Donna Crianza oaky plum and berry flavors remain woody through balanced by the sweetness of this fresh wine. It is 83 en Roble Merlot (Canelones). Imprecise aro- the finish. There’s a lot of oak to this otherwise good fruity as well, finishing with some acidity and ready mas include notes of animal hide and generic red but lean-bodied red blend. Aiko Inc. —M.S. to drink. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. berry fruits. A pulpy, tannic palate holds flavors abv: 12.5% Price: $60 abv: 9% Price: $NA of cherry Kool-Aid and cocoa powder, while this Merlot is narrow and gummy on the finish. MYB Casa Perini 2018 Macaw Elegant Cabernet Imports. —M.S. 82 Sauvignon (Serra Gaúcha). Gummy berry DOURO abv: 13.5% Price: $19 aromas offer a weird note of cinnamon, while this is light in body and struggles to hold its form. Saucy Colinas do Douro 2017 Quinta da Extrema berry flavors are hollow on a sticky, sugary finish. 93 Edicão II (Douro). This is an impressive, OTHER SOUTH Aiko Inc. —M.S. wood-aged wine from the eastern Douro Superior abv: 11.5% Price: $NA region. With its fine balance between the toasty AMERICA wood aging flavors and the wine’s smooth apricot Casa Perini 2018 Macaw Smooth Merlot and pear flavors, this is a wine for further aging. WHITE WINES 82 (Serra Gaúcha). Yeasty cinnamon aromas Drink from 2021. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. are candied, while this Merlot feels flat. Sugary —R.V. Intipalka 2019 Valle del Sol Chardonnay plum flavors are candied, while this offers little to abv: 12.5% Price: $45 84 (Ica). Prickly, grassy aromas needle away in no depth on the finish. Aiko Inc. —M.S. front of a palate with a mix of bitter citrus and pyr- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Quinta Vale D. Maria 2018 Vinha de Martim azine-based flavors. Stale notes on the finish ensure 92 (Douro). A small production field-blend that this Peruvian Chardonnay is challenging from Casa Perini 2018 Macaw Spicy Tannat (Serra wine that has been wood-aged to bring out its great start to end. Ekeko Distribution. —M.S. 80 Gaúcha). Foxy berry fruit aromas are candied fruits and tight mineral texture. The wine with its abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and come with a side scent of chlorinated swimming combination of spice and fine fruitiness should be pool. A flabby palate with zero in the way of structure aged and drunk from 2021. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. Casa Perini 2019 Macaw Aromatic Muscat tastes of jammy berry, sugar and green grass. Overall, abv: 12.5% Price: $100 82 (Serra Gaúcha). Jumbled aromas of candied this smells and tastes artificial. Aiko Inc. —M.S. white fruits and grass lead to an oily palate that’s abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Van Zellers 2018 CV Curriculum Vitae sticky and slightly cloying. Honeyed, flowery lychee 92 (Douro). This is a young, perfumed wine flavors persist through the finish. Aiko Inc. —M.S. from 80-year-old vines in a field blend. It has been abv: 11% Price: $NA PORTUGAL wood aged, giving a subtle spiciness to the wine’s broad citrus and apple flavors. It needs to age to WHITE WINES really reveal its best side, so wait until 2021. MS SPARKLING WINES Walker. —R.V. VINHO VERDE abv: 13% Price: $95 Casa Perini NV Moscatel (Serra Gaúcha). 88 Varietally familiar and correct aromas of Wines & Winemakers 2018 Lua Cheia em Lavradores de Feitoria 2018 Meruge Branco lychee and spring flower blossoms set up a sug- 91 Vinhas Velhas Nostalgia (Vinho Verde). 91 (Douro). Mainly Viosinho, with 20% field ary palate cut by healthy acidity. Lime, lychee and Alvarinho from the privileged region of Monção and blend fruit, the wine, which has been wood aged, honeydew flavors are common but clean, while this Melgaço has given a beautifully ripe and fragrant comes from a selection from the 19 different quin- is smooth and not at all edgy on the finish. Fans of fruit. Aging the wine on its lees has increased the tas in this grouping of growers. The wine’s hints of Piedmont-style Moscato should like this Brazilian density of its texture as well as its yellow and white yellow fruits, alongside the spice and crisp citrus, offering. Aiko Inc. —M.S. fruit flavors. Drink the wine now. Costa Nova. —R.V. makes for a wine that should develop. Drink from abv: 7.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $21

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BUYINGGUIDE late 2020, although the wine will be even better a fine balance between freshness and richness, this ness and a gentle aftertaste. Aidil Wines/Old World from 2021. Polaner Selections. —R.V. wine is already very drinkable. However, it will Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 become deeper and riper as it matures, so wait for abv: 12.5% Price: $13 the apple fruits to open up from late 2020. Aveleda Quinta da Pacheca 2018 Pacheca Grande Inc. —R.V. Quinta Vale D. Maria 2018 Rufo Branco 91 Reserva Branco (Douro). Aged for a year in abv: 12% Price: $23 86 (Douro). Arinto, Códega de Larinho and wood, this is a rich, toasty wine. Still young, it has a Rabigato come together in a fresh wine, packed with cool character from the high altitude vineyards and Wines & Winemakers 2018 Lua Cheia em fruit and fine acidity. White fruits dominate this from the crisp citrus fruits. They blend with the 89 Vinhas Velhas Secretum (Douro). This easy, accessible wine that is ready to drink. Aveleda riper apricot and spice flavors. Drink this fine wine wood-fermented wine is pure Arinto, spicy as well Inc. —R.V. from 2021. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. as intensely fruity. The wine’s steely edge is ready abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $42 to soften into a smooth, rounded texture that will make for a fine wine from 2021. Costa Nova. —R.V. Van Zellers 2016 VZ Van Zellers (Douro). A Secret Spot Wines 2013 Lacrau Garrafeira abv: 13% Price: $46 84 somewhat earthy wine, this has perfumed 91 (Douro). A field blend of at least 20 variet- acidity and asparagus and spice flavors. It is now ies, planted nearly 70 years ago, has produced a Lavradores de Feitoria 2018 Três Bagos mature. MS Walker. —R.V. wine that is strongly textured, concentrated and 88 Reserva Branco (Douro). A wood-aged wine abv: 11.5% Price: $30 full of spicy fruits. The wood aging has dampened that has spice and toast as well as bright white fruit the fruitiness of the wine but added complexity and flavors. The wine’s acidity gives a crisp character to concentration. Drink now. Vintage Wine Marketing. a wine that is ripe and full. Drink the wine from late DÃO —R.V. 2020. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $74 abv: 13% Price: $25 Fontes da Cunha 2017 Munda Encruzado 91 (Dão). Wood aging has given this rich wine a CARM 2018 Reserva (Douro). Half of this Messias 2018 Quinta do Penedo Encruzado touch of oxidation as well as spice and honey. It also 90 wine was aged in wood, giving a softer view 88 (Douro). A fresh, crisp wine that is domi- brings out the wine’s richness and the open white of the crisp citrus fruits and acidity. Spice and toast nated by attractive citrus flavors. It’s as refreshing fruits. Drink this fine wine now. EcoValley. —R.V. flavors add their touch and give a fine rich wine that as a breeze, the fruitiness increased by the touches abv: 13.5% Price: $30 will age. Drink from 2021. American B.D. —R.V. of ripe apricots at the end. Drink now. Lieber Bros abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Inc. —R.V. Fontes da Cunha 2017 Nono Winemaker’s abv: 12% Price: $20 91 Selection Branco (Dão). With 60% wood Colinas do Douro 2018 Quinta da Extrema aging, winemaker Joana Cunha’s selection in honor 90 Reserva (Douro). This quinta, far to the Van Zellers 2018 VZ Branco (Douro). Fer- of her nono (grandfather) has spice and toast as well east of the Douro Valley, has, despite the heat of the 88 mented in wood, this wine shows plenty of as the rich fruits of Encruzado. It’s a balanced, deli- region, produced an elegant, fresh and fruity wine. spicy toast flavors. But it also has great crisp fruits, cious wine, full of creamed apple flavors and bright Its acidity and its minerality are still dominant, the bright acidity and a lively freshness. The wine will acidity. Drink now. EcoValley. —R.V. fruit coming easily along behind. Drink this fruity, be ready from late 2020. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 lemon- and spice-flavored wine from late 2020. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 USA Wine West. —R.V. Fontes da Cunha 2018 Quinta do Mondego abv: 12.5% Price: $29 Borges 2018 Reserva Branco (Douro). A floral 90 (Dão). From a single vineyard, this blend 87 wine, this blend of Gouveio and Viosinho is of Encruzado and Gouveio has weight and richness Quinta do Convento 2016 Branco (Douro). ripe while also being tightly textured. Its youthfully from wood aging. The wine’s freshness derives from 90 Aged partly in large barrels, the wine is vibrant fruit is full of tangy acidity as well as hav- the bright citrus and green apple flavors. They are toasty, smooth and rich. It already has a fine balance ing a taut texture. Let it all soften for the next few broadened by toast and spice. Drink from late 2020. between fruit and its texture, freshness and struc- months, and drink from late 2020. JMV USA. —R.V. EcoValley. —R.V. ture. This fine wine should age further and be ready abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $17 from 2021. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $21 CARM 2018 Douro. A fruity, refreshing blend Quinta da Mariposa 2017 Mariposa Encru- 87 of three of the Douro’s most characteris- 90 zado (Dão). Made from the star white grape Secret Spot Wines 2017 Crooked Vines tic white grapes, this is tangy and zesty as well as of the Dão region, the wine was aged in large oak 90 (Douro). This is a blend of mainly old vine lightly structured with minerality. The fresh apple barrels. The wood aging has added richness to the Gouveio, Viosinho and Rabigato, the classic Douro and citrus flavors are ready to drink now. American smoothly textured white fruits and given the wine white grapes. Aging for 15 months has produced B.D. —R.V. a stylish, ripe and fragrant character. It is ready to a ripe toasty wine that has managed to keep fine abv: 12.5% Price: $18 drink. NLC Wines. —R.V. white fruits and acidity. It is a rich wine that is now abv: 13% Price: $22 ready to drink. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. Quinta da Pacheca 2018 Pacheca Superior abv: 14% Price: $42 87 (Douro). Perfumed Moscatel adds a spicy Quinta da Mariposa 2017 Sombrio (Dão). A character to this wine. Pineapple and mango gives 90 fine, wood-aged wine, this is full of spice Lavradores de Feitoria 2018 Branco (Douro). an exotic edge to the toast and spice flavors from as well as beautifully rich fruit. Perfumes from the 89 An attractively perfumed wine, this is both wood aging. The wine is a little young and will be Cerceal blend with the crisp Bical and the creamy spicy and ripe with white fruits. There is also a fine better from late 2020. Saraiva Enterprises. Best Encruzado. The wine is balanced, deliciously rich line in acidity that brings in a tight character. The Buy. —R.V. and ready to drink. NLC Wines. —R.V. wine is tangy and ready to drink. Polaner Selec- abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 tions. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Quinta do Convento 2018 Hasso (Douro). A Lusovini 2018 Pedra Cancela Vinha da 86 soft and open wine, it is made to be drunk 89 Fidalgo (Dão). Ripe apple flavors and a tight Quinta Vale D. Maria 2018 Vinhas do Sabor young. There are bright white fruits along with texture mark out this young wine. Its acidity and 89 Branco (Douro). Wood fermented and with melon and spice flavors giving the wine both fresh- potential creaminess reveal its future as a ripe wine,

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 finely structured and sure to be delicious to drink. fruit-flavored character that gives the wine plenty Just wait until late 2020. Lusovini USA. —R.V. of rounded fruitiness. Drink from late 2020. Wine ALENTEJANO abv: 13% Price: $NA In-Motion. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Quinta do Paral 2017 Reserva Branco (Alente- Fontes da Cunha 2018 Mondeco (Dão). Also 91 jano). This is a beautifully textured, wood- 88 bottled under a colorful juggling clown Fiuza 2019 3 Castas Branco (Tejo). The three aged wine. Its toastiness enhances the ripe yellow label as Nono, the blend of Encruzado and Gouveio 87 grape varieties—castas—are Arinto, Fernão fruits and gives the blend of Chardonnay and Sauvi- is fresh, bright and crisp. Its acidity and white fruits Pires and Chardonnay. Fresh and bright, this young gnon Blanc a broad texture as well as a more herbal are lifted by the wine’s mineral textures. Drink now. wine has crisp apple and lemon flavors. Give it a edge. Let the wine age a little longer, and drink from EcoValley. Best Buy. —R.V. month or two to settle in, and drink from summer 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 2020. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $15 Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2019 Ribeiro Herdade Grande 2018 Grande Reserva 88 Santo (Dão). A wine made from Encruzado, Fiuza 2019 Oceanus (Tejo). A tangy, very 90 Branco (Alentejano). Some wood aging has this is still young, of course, but already showing 86 young wine that still needs to get its depth. given this wine its richness as well as bringing out its pedigree. Creamy, fragrant and with tangy apple That said, it is a bright, citrus-driven wine that is yellow fruits and a smooth texture. The wine, of flavors, the wine is going to develop over the next full of fruitiness. Drink from late 2020. Votto Vines course, is young, needing time to show off its citrus few months and will be ready from late 2020. Green Importing. —R.V. and apricot flavors. Drink from late 2020. —R.V. Bus Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Fiuza 2019 Silent Oak Branco (Tejo). Lightly Mouchão 2018 Ponte Branco (Alentejano). Quinta da Mariposa 2017 Mariposa Branco 85 perfumed, the wine is soft and fragrant. 90 This is a return of a historic wine for the 87 (Dão). The Cerceal and in this Gentle acidity and a touch of minerality give the estate, a pure Verdelho with its fine perfumes, acid- blend give a finely perfumed wine with soft acidity wine shape. It’s ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. ity and tangy, zesty texture. This fine wine is young and an intense fruitiness. Creamy and with touches —R.V. with great fruitiness. Drink from late 2020. Wine of almonds, the wine is full, ripe and ready to drink. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 In-Motion. —R.V. NLC Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $15 ALENTEJO Torre de Palma 2018 Arinto-Alvarinho (Alen- 90 tejano). A grape from the south meets a LISBOA Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2018 Adega grape from the north in this deliciously textured 89 de Borba Premium (Alentejo). This is an wine. Tangy with lemon zest as well as bright apple Adega Mãe 2016 Terroir (Lisboa). This attractively perfumed and fruity wine. The blend flavors, the wine has a young, fresh minerality to it. 90 wood-aged wine is one of a pair created as of four grapes gives freshness with a light mineral This will calm down over the next few months to expressions of the terroir, the winery and its vine- structure that adds complexity and texture to the give a ripe while intensely fruity wine. Drink from yards. In its salinity it has just a hint of the nearby wine. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. late 2020. HTB Imports. —R.V. ocean while its baked apple and hint of asparagus abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $31 are more land-based. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2015 Quintas Herdade de Ceuta 2018 Alentejano. A blend abv: 13% Price: $45 89 de Borba Grande Reserva (Alentejo). This 88 of Antão Vaz and Gouveio, the wine is softly is a rich, powerfully ripe wine. The dominance of textured, ripe with pineapple and spice flavors. Adega Mãe 2018 Dory Reserva (Lisboa). The ensures that. But it also has its There is an attractive touch of toastiness as well as 89 blend of Viosinho, Alvarinho and Chardon- own sense of style, with ripe tannins balanced by smooth fruits. Drink from late 2020. Specialty Cel- nay brings together crisp fruits and a smooth and the acidity from the blackberry fruits. The wine is lars. —R.V. creamy texture. There is plenty of young acidity now at its peak. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 here, citrus to the fore. The wine is ready to drink abv: 14% Price: $20 but will be better from late 2020. Aidil Wines/Old Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Vinha da World Import. —R.V. Mouchão 2018 Dom Rafael Branco (Alen- 88 Coutada Velha (Alentejano). Mineral, fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $20 88 tejo). An attractive, fruity blend of Antão and spicy, the wine has rounded fruit that is lit by Vaz and Arinto, this is crisp, full of apple and lime hints of lemon. The texture is mineral and concen- Santos & Seixo 2018 Sublinhado Branco (Lis- fruitiness and bright acidity. The aftertaste leaves a trated, giving a wine that should age. Drink from 85 boa). A blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires is bright, tangy freshness. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. 2021. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. bright, fresh and softly fruity. The crisp apple fla- —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA vors are laced with light, tangy acidity to give a wine abv: 12.5% Price: $13 that is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueira Buy. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2018 Montes 88 Alvarinho (Alentejano). Apart from the abv: 12.5% Price: $10 87 Claros Reserva (Alentejo). It’s the cool Rou- unnecessarily heavy bottle, this is an attractive ripe, peiro that gives this wine its freshness and tightly honeyed wine. Its richness and creamy smooth tex- crisp texture. Lime and grapefruit flavors have an ture are enhanced by the hints of freshly squeezed TEJO herbal edge along with fine acidity and a zesty after- citrus. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. taste. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Rui Reguinga 2018 Vinha da Talisca (Tejo). abv: 13% Price: $15 90 Named after the producer’s daughter, Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Seleção do Ano this single-vineyard wine is produced from Rhône 88 (Alentejano). A selection of varieties that white grapes: , Roussanne and Viognier. showed best in the year, this is a wood-aged wine, Its rich, smooth texture has a feeling of warmth ripe with touches of tropical fruits as well as spice and generosity. There is also a ripe, textured, white

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BUYINGGUIDE and some tannins. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Guarda Rios Global Wines 2013 Q Encontro Special Cuvée —R.V. 85 (Alentejano). Light, bright and fruity, the 90 (Bairrada). The Bairrada region, cool and abv: 13% Price: $NA wine is a crisp blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto. close to the ocean, is well-known for its sparkling Lemon and fresh fruits show strongly alongside the wines. This is a fine example, crisp and fruity with a Terras de Alter 2018 Terra d’Alter VDL tangy texture. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. mineral edge as well as plenty of apple flavors. After 88 Verdelho (Alentejano). Lightly perfumed abv: 13% Price: $NA six years, the wine is just approaching maturity, and attractively fruity, this is an apple and cante- hinting at toastiness but still likely to develop fur- loupe flavored wine. Its acidity just brings out the Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2018 Senses ther. Drink from late 2020. Aidil Wines/Old World ripeness of the fruit while also underlining the 84 Verdelho (Alentejano). The wine is per- Import. —R.V. bright aftertaste. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. fumed and full of creamed apple flavors. Its soft tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ture and light acidity result in a wine that is gentle and ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Romana Vini 2016 Berbereta Reserva Brut Torre de Palma 2018 Alentejano. Delicious abv: 12.5% Price: $12 89 Nature (Lisboa). Aging for two years before 88 apple aromas are balanced with crisp acid- disgorgement has made a fine blend of Arinto and ity to give a ripe wine that also has great freshness. Chardonnay. There are hints of mature richness as It’s a winning combination, and this attractive wine OTHER WHITE WINES well as plenty of apple fruitiness. Drink this spar- is ready to drink. HTB Imports. —R.V. kling wine now. Lorbert Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Adega Mãe 2017 221 Alvarinho (Portuguese abv: 12% Price: $32 90 ). This is a blend of Alvarinho Torre de Palma 2017 Alentejano. A ripe, from the northern Minho and from Lisboa. The Borges 2014 Real Senhor Blanc de Noirs 88 creamy blend of Arinto, Antão Vaz and result of the blend is a smooth, spicy wine that has 88 Bruto (Dão). A taut, tight, crisp wine that Alvarinho, the wine is smoothly textured with ripe wood aging as well as fresh apple fruit flavors. Drink has fine acidity, apple fruits and a tannic structure apple and spice flavors going with more nutty matu- now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. that is now integrated into the fruit. With its lively rity. Drink now. HTB Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 mousse, the wine is both bright and ripe. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $25 now. JMV USA. —R.V. Global Wines 2018 Encontro Bical (Bairrada). abv: 12% Price: $18 Herdade Grande 2018 Gerações Colheita 85 Simple white fruits and a light, mineral 87 Seleccionada Branco (Alentejano). A crisp, texture give this wine both freshness and a fresh, J. Portugal Ramos 2015 Reserva Bruto lightly perfumed wine, this is tangy with a tight tex- crisp aftertaste. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World 88 Nature Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Lightly oak ture as well as refreshing citrus fruits. The wine can Import. Best Buy. —R.V. aged, this sparkling wine is fresh and at the same be drunk now for its vivacious fruit but will soften abv: 13% Price: $9 time has hints of toastiness. Its freshness has been well over the next few months. —R.V. softened by bottle aging to create a wine that is abv: 13% Price: $20 Vila Nova 2019 Alvarinho (Minho). For full attractively ready to drink. Winebow. —R.V. 90 review see page 16. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Mocho Galego abv: 12.5% Price: $18 87 Signature (Alentejano). Arinto, Alvarinho Messias 2015 Grande Cuvée Brut Millésime and Viognier give this wine a fine balance between Wines & Winemakers 2018 Maria Bonita 88 (Bairrada). This sparkling wine is from crisp citrus flavors and warmer yellow fruits. Par- 87 (Minho). Crisp while also creamily textured, the Bairrada region, the source of many of Portu- tially fermented in wood, the wine has a touch of this is an immediately attractive, accessible wine. gal’s popular bubblies. The blend of Baga, Bical and toast while preserving a bright character. Drink Its lemon and green plum flavors are fresh, tautly Chardonnay brings together structured fruit with a from late 2020. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. textured and refreshing. Drink now. Costa Nova. smoother texture that supports the attractive per- abv: 13% Price: $NA —R.V. fumed bright fruits. Drink now. Lieber Bros Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 —R.V. Quinta do Paral 2018 Colheita Seleccionada abv: 12% Price: $18 87 (Alentejano). A blend of Arinto and Ver- Valle Pradinhos 2018 Reserva Branco White mentino, the wine was wood aged to give spice and 90 Blend (Trás-os-Montes). A rare blend of Messias 2015 Grande Reserva Blanc de Noirs almond flavors that will show well with the crisp, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Malvasia, this wine is 88 Bruto (Bairrada). The red, normally tan- perfumed citrus fruit over the next few months. spicy, fruity and deliciously refreshing. The mineral nic Baga grape shows a softer side in this lightly Drink from late 2020. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. edge that comes from the 60% Riesling adds to the structured and fruity wine. Its acidity balances the abv: 12.5% Price: $20 wine’s fine texture. The wine is ready to drink but attractive red fruits and mineral texture. Drink now. will be better from late 2020. Vintage Wine Mar- Direct Wine Imports. —R.V. Terras de Alter 2018 Terra d’Alter ENC Encru- keting. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $27 87 zado (Alentejano). This great grape is south abv: 13.5% Price: $24 of its normal home of the Dão. But it still produces Borges 2015 Real Senhor Blanc de Noirs a finely balanced wine with crisp apple fruitiness 87 (Dão). This is a ripe style of wine, structured underlined with a juicy texture and acidity. Drink SPARKLING WINES as well as fruity. The creamy mousse rounds out now. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. the wine, giving a smoothness to the tangy acidity. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Global Wines 2014 Casa de Santar Vinha Drink now. JMV USA. —R.V. 90 dos Amores Spumante de Touriga Nacional abv: 12% Price: $19 Terras de Alter 2018 Terra d’Alter Síria-Arinto- (Dão). Touriga Nacional vinified as a Blanc de Noirs, 87 Viognier (Alentejano). Light and creamy, this this is a fine, aromatic wine. Its acidity and crisp Global Wines 2015 Cabriz Bruto (Dão). A is an immediately accessible wine. Fresh while also texture are complemented by the wine’s lively fruit- 87 blend of white grapes, this is a soft, mature full of ripe apple and crisp pear flavors, the wine is iness and tight mousse. The wine is just mature and wine, crisp and clean, with attractive apple flavors. fruity and ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distribut- is ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. The wine’s soft mousse means it is ready to drink. ing. Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $14

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Messias 2015 Quinta do Valdoeiro Bruto berry flavors are brightly integrated and refreshing. ther aging. Drink this impressive wine from 2023. 87 (Bairrada). Baga and Chardonnay come Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Aveleda Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. together in softly textured, creamy wine. The Baga abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $83 grape gives the wine its tannic edge and adds a touch of almond to the fruitiness. Drink now. Direct Van Zellers 2017 CV Curriculum Vitae Wine Imports. —R.V. PORTUGAL 94 (Douro). From 90-year-old vines, this is abv: 12% Price: $19 a powerful, richly impressive wine. It has great RED WINES weight from the concentration of the field blend of Quinta da Lapa 2014 Reserva Bruto Natu- low-yielding vines, giving black fruits and rich tan- 86 ral Vinho Espumante Arinto (Tejo). A crisp DOURO nins along with a strong mineral texture. The wine wine that now has maturity. That brings in almond is still an infant and will certainly not be ready flavors and diminishes the wine’s fruitiness. It is Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Vinha do Rio before 2024. MS Walker. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ready to drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. 95 (Douro). For a wine with such a high alcohol abv: 15% Price: $100 abv: 11% Price: $35 content, this is impressively elegant and poised. It comes from a single vineyard, a field blend that has CARM 2016 Grande Reserva (Douro). A high Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2017 Lagoalva given magnificent dense black fruits and tannins 93 percentage of elegant Touriga Nacional and 85 Bruto (Tejo). A bright, lively, apple-driven as well as a fresh strata of acidity. The wine is cer- 12 months in new wood have created a wine that wine, this has attractive acidity and a refreshing tainly for aging, so wait until 2024 before drinking. has big, bold fruit and aromatic wood flavors and texture. The wine is fruity, finishing crisply. Drink Aveleda Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. some powerful tannins. It’s a wine to age and then now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 15.5% Price: $130 to savor, both for its fine balance and its impressive abv: 12.5% Price: $30 structure. Drink from 2022. American B.D. Cellar Fiuza 2013 Vila Flor Vinha da Peça (Douro). Selection. —R.V. Global Wines NV Q Encontro Rosé Spumante 94 In the east of the Douro Superior wine abv: 14% Price: $59 84 Bruto (Vinho Espumante). A slightly bit- region, this vineyard has given a very fine, ripe and ter wine that has a nutty character along with red now mature wine. Wood aged for a year and with Fiuza 2016 Casa d’Arrochella Reserva fruits. Its acidity leaves a crisp taste. Drink now. spice, undergrowth and a dark structure, the wine 93 (Douro). Produced from old vines, this Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. has fully integrated fruit, wood and its core of dry- dense wine is impressively structured. Dark tannins abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ness. This fine wine is ready to drink. Votto Vines support the juicy black currant and berry fruits that Importing. —R.V. are now maturing well. At this stage, the wine is still Casca Wines 2013 Monte Cascas Reserva abv: 14% Price: $50 on an upward trajectory and so waiting until 2021 83 Bruto (Távora-Varosa). This wine, from an would be just right. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. almost hidden Douro region appellation dedicated Fiuza 2013 Vinhas do Cerval (Douro). A abv: 14% Price: $35 to sparkling wines, is curiously vegetal. That gives 94 selection from the oldest parcels of vines, the wine asparagus and leek flavors, contrasting this wine is serious, structured and dense with Quinta de la Rosa 2017 La Rosa Reserva with the fresh acidity at the end. Cellar Wines Dis- great ripe fruits. Its balance is impeccable, showing 93 (Douro). A selection of the best fruit from tributing. —R.V. spice, perfumes and wonderful mature black fruits. this estate, this wood-aged reserva is rich and abv: 12.5% Price: $30 This is a great wine to savor. Drink now. Votto Vines firmly structured. It also has powerful berry fruits, Importing. —R.V. ripe tannins and a texture that is developing well. abv: 13% Price: $85 This impressive wine will age very well and will ROSÉS likely be ready from 2022. Drink until 2026. Wine- Lavradores de Feitoria 2009 Três Bagos sellers, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Vinha da 94 Grande Escolha Estágio Prolongado (Douro). abv: 14% Price: $54 89 Coutada Velha Rosé (Alentejano). A Aged for 14 months in new wood and then bottled smoothly textured wine, soft and spicy, this is aged before release, the wine is certainly mature. It Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Douro. A struc- immediately attractive and ready to drink. The has a ripe feel to it with a dry core alongside acid- 93 tured dense wine from vineyards in the red fruits, acidity and cool character of the after- ity and secondary, undergrowth characters. It is a Torto Valley, a tributary of the Douro. The wine’s taste are refreshing and delicious. Drink now. LGL beautiful wine to drink now. Polaner Selections. tannins and black fruits are balanced by the dark Imports LLC. —R.V. —R.V. licorice and wood flavors, giving a hugely concen- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $50 trated wine. Drink from 2023. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. abv: 15.5% Price: $65 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Guarda Rios Rosé Quinta do Monte Xisto 2017 Douro. Pro- 87 (Alentejano). Coming from vineyards with 94 duced from organic grapes grown in one of Colinas do Douro 2017 Quinta da Extrema chalky soil, the wine is textured as well as ripe. The the Douro’s most spectacular vineyards, this wine is 92 Reserva (Douro). Almost black in color, this blend of Aragonez and Syrah is rich with just the densely textured and finely delineated. That gives it powerful wine is hugely dense and concentrated. right maturity. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. balance and poise while also offering minerality that The wine’s dark tannins are striated with a mineral abv: 12.5% Price: $NA comes from the schist terroir. This impressive wine texture that gives aging potential as well as sup- is sure to age well, so wait until 2023. David Bowler porting the black fruits. The wine needs to age fur- Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Clássico Rosé Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ther. Drink from 2022. USA Wine West. —R.V. 86 (Alentejano). The wine, with its light struc- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ture, is perfumed as well as fruity. It is bone-dry, fragrant and refreshing with a tangy edge. Drink Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Vinha da Francisca Fiuza 2017 Casa d’Arrochella Grandes Quin- now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. 94 (Douro). A blend of five grape varieties in a 92 tas Colheita (Douro). This sumptuously rich abv: 12.5% Price: $NA single vineyard, this is a massive wine from the high wine has the ripest black fruits along with solid alcohol vintage, a blockbuster of tannins and dense tannins. The juicy acidity is what gives the wine its Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Seleção do Ano black fruit. At the same time as all this power, the balance and that will develop as the powerful wine 85 Rosé (Alentejano). The wine is all about wine also has a fine swagger to it, promising fur- young fruitiness and freshness. Its acidity and red

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BUYINGGUIDE matures further. Drink from 2022. Votto Vines Wines & Winemakers 2017 Lua Cheia em the way to coming together to produce a smoothly Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 Vinhas Velhas Reserva Especial (Douro). textured wine from 2021. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $25 A field blend of old vines is the backbone of this abv: 13.5% Price: $25 dense wine. Dark fruits and solid tannins are right Lavradores de Feitoria 2017 Meruge Tinto upfront, still young and still with a bold structure. Quinta de la Rosa 2018 Douro. This young 92 (Douro). A blend of 80% Tinta Roriz and Drink this powerful wine from 2022. Costa Nova. 90 wine is the estate wine from this showpiece 20% old vines, this is a solidly textured, tannic Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Douro estate. It has fine potential with its firm tan- wine. Its concentrated structure is balanced by the abv: 13.5% Price: $22 nic structure and ripe blackberry fruits. Juicy acid- fresh edge of fruit and acidity. The two are on their ity goes with the dusty texture to give all the ele- way to balance, so drink from 2021. Polaner Selec- Borges 2016 Reserva (Douro). The wine is ments for aging. Drink from 2021. Winesellers, Ltd. tions. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 91 powerfully structured with its layers of —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29 tannin and dusty texture. Black fruits provide the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 weight behind this structure giving a firm, mineral Lavradores de Feitoria 2017 Quinta da Costa wine that needs some more aging. Drink from 2021. Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Vinhas do Sabor 92 (Douro). From one of the 19 vineyards in JMV USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 Tinto (Douro). Fermented in stone lagars, this grouping of Douro growers, the wine is properly abv: 13% Price: $20 the wine has density and generously soft tannins. balanced with dry tannins vying with solid black It also has the concentration that comes from low- fruits and an edge of minerality. The wine is dark, CARM 2017 Reserva (Douro). A fine, rich yielding old vines. With its rich black fruits and full, seriously rich and needing more aging. Drink 91 wood-aged blend, the wine has a solid struc- acidity, the wine is developing well. Wait until from 2021. Polaner Selections. —R.V. ture and some bold, black tannins. The spice and 2021. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29 toasty flavors are integrated into the wine’s per- abv: 14% Price: $23 fumed fruits with the 40% Touriga Nacional and Quinta da Ferradosa 2016 Douro. Struc- 30% Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca now com- Van Zellers 2017 VZ (Douro). A still young 92 tured and beautifully perfumed, this wine ing together well. Drink from 2021. American B.D. 90 but smoothly textured wine, this reveals its is a classic blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga —R.V. richness in the opulent black fruits. It shows alco- Franca. Almost ready to drink, it is balanced and abv: 14.5% Price: $28 hol in a pepper edge that gives it some hardness. smoothly textured, full of black fruits and acidity. As it matures, it will certainly soften, although the Drink from late 2020. St Clair Wines. —R.V. Lavradores de Feitoria 2015 Três Bagos Grande wine is always going to have great power. Drink from abv: 13.5% Price: $28 91 Escolha (Douro). As it has aged, this very fine 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. wine has developed spice, old wood and mature abv: 15.5% Price: $28 Quinta das Bandeiras 2017 Passagem fruit flavors. The fruit is still there, now balanced by 92 Reserva (Douro). The product of a vineyard plummy, almost Port-like characteristics. The wine CARM 2017 Douro. The wine has firm tan- in the Douro Superior, the wine shows the great is ready to drink. Polaner Selections. —R.V. 89 nins and a rich texture that gives weight structural richness of this remote region. The big, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 and finely structured black fruits. Its ripe berry fla- dusty tannins have a fine development ahead of vors and juicy acidity are just ready to drink, but them, along with the rich black currant fruits. Drink Quinta da Pacheca 2016 Reserva Vinhas Vel- better wait a few months until late 2020. American this fine wine from 2022 and until 2025. Winesell- 91 has (Douro). All the richness and structure B.D. —R.V. ers, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. of the Douro is in this dense wine. It has jammy abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $25 ripe black fruits that are shot through with concen- trated tannins and perfume acidity. Produced from Fiuza 2016 Vila Flor Reserva (Douro). Still Quinta do Convento 2016 Tinto (Douro). The a field blend of old vines, the wine is still young and 89 full of tannins as well as showing fine fruit 92 vineyards of the original convent which was its tannins still firm, so drink from 2021. Saraiva weight, the wine is structured and needs more time established in the 12th century have produced a Enterprises. —R.V. to fully develop. A blend of four classic Douro grapes dark, serious and intense wine. It is rich, still with abv: 14% Price: $22 and partially wood aged, the wine will be ready from a typical Douro mineral structure and powered by 2021. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. dense black fruits. The wine will be ready from Rui Roboredo Madeira 2017 Castello d’Alba abv: 13.5% Price: $25 2021. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. 91 Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This fine, wood-aged abv: 14.5% Price: $27 wine has tannins contained with an opulent frame- Lusovini 2017 Ares do Douro Hidrângeas work of dark fruits and a dusty texture. One of the 89 Reserva (Douro). Fruit from 60-year-old Secret Spot Wines 2016 Crooked Vines Douro’s vineyards of old vines, in a field blend, is vines, fermented in stone lagars, has given this wine 92 (Douro). This field blend from low-yielding the source of this generous, big wine that will be its rounded, rich structure with satisfyingly ripe old vines is ripe, full of black fruits and densely tex- ready from 2021. MS Walker. —R.V. blackberry flavors. Wood aging added to the wine’s tured. It has intensity and richness that will develop abv: 14.5% Price: $20 spicy character. Drink now. Lusovini USA. Best Buy. great complexity as the wine ages. The bold tannins —R.V. are set to soften into the mineral and fruit char- Borges 2017 Quinta da Soalheira (Douro). abv: 14% Price: $14 acters of this fine wine. Drink from 2021. Vintage 90 Produced from old vines, the wine bursts Wine Marketing. —R.V. with concentrated black fruits. Its balance and Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Douro Superior abv: 14.5% Price: $42 acidity come from the rich berry flavors as well as 89 (Douro). Vines in the eastern Douro Supe- the core of tannins. This is a wine that just revels rior region are the source of this still-young wine. It Secret Spot Wines 2013 Lacrau Garrafeira in its fruitiness. Drink from 2021. JMV USA. Best has structure, minerality and black fruits that are 92 (Douro). A blend of at least 12 grape variet- Buy. —R.V. going to yield a bold, ripe wine. Drink from 2021. ies, this small production wine was aged three years abv: 13% Price: $14 Aveleda Inc. —R.V. in wood. That has added spice and smokiness to the abv: 15% Price: $15 solid fruits and rich tannins of a sumptuous wine Lavradores de Feitoria 2017 Três Bagos that is just ready to drink. Vintage Wine Market- 90 Reserva (Douro). Still young in its vivid Wines & Winemakers 2016 Azul Portugal ing. —R.V. fruitiness and fine tannins, the wine is full of black 89 Reserva (Douro). There is a traditional abv: 14% Price: $74 fruits, a ripe texture and acidity. Everything is on Douro blend in this wine that expresses both the

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 firm fruits and the minerality of a Douro wine. It has wood still show among the bold black fruits and bodied blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and some fine tannins as well as spice and toast from the acidity. That suggests it needs to mature further to Tinta Roriz is just approaching black fruit and tan- wood aging that has smoothed the wine’s structure. integrate the toasty character. Drink from 2021. M nin structured maturity. There is a fine dusty qual- Drink now. Amphora Imports LLC. —R.V. Imports, LLC. —R.V. ity in the wine that has a ripe, perfumed aftertaste. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $13 Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Aveleda 2017 Charamba Reserva (Douro). Borges 2017 Lello Reserva (Douro). This 88 Named after a traditional Portuguese dance, 86 smoky wine with its dark fruits and Lusovini 2016 Pedra Cancela Reserva (Dão). this ripe, spicy wine has soft tannins and generous extracted wood aging is intense and structured. 92 This elegant ripe blend of Touriga Nacional, black fruits. It is open, bold and ready to drink now. It has a juicy edge that contrasts with all this bit- Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz is full of ripe black plum Aveleda Inc. —R.V. terness and that should develop. Drink from 2021. fruits, rich tannins and a fine perfume from wood abv: 13.5% Price: $NA JMV USA. —R.V. aging. The wine’s density is mitigated by the spice abv: 12.5% Price: $14 and acidity at the end. Drink from 2021. Lusovini Colinas do Douro 2017 Superior (Douro). USA. —R.V. 88 From vines located in the far east of the Messias 2018 Quinta do Cachão (Douro). abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Douro Valley, this wine has structure as well as fine 86 Still young, this fruity wine has fine acidity red fruits. Its acidity keeps freshness while the tan- and some attractive juicy blackberry fruit flavors. Quinta da Mariposa 2014 Reserva (Dão). A nins and structure soften into the fruitiness. Drink The wine does have some structure but it is already 92 richly structured wine, full of ripe tannins now. USA Wine West. —R.V. integrating into the wine’s fruitiness. Drink from as well as powerful dark berry fruits. Wood aging abv: 13.5% Price: $15 late 2020. Lieber Bros Inc. —R.V. has added to the balanced richness of this perfumed abv: 13.5% Price: $13 wine. It has matured well while maintaining plenty Lavradores de Feitoria 2017 Douro. The wine of freshness. Drink now, or keep until 2021. NLC 88 concentrates on black fruits and the light Rui Roboredo Madeira 2018 Castello d’Alba Wines. —R.V. minerality of its structure. Berry flavors and ripe 86 (Douro). A warm and ripe wine that has abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tannins shine through this balanced, rich wine with light tannins and juicy red fruits, this is a blend of its spicy aftertaste. Drink now. Polaner Selections. Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. Fontes da Cunha 2014 Quinta do Mondego Best Buy. —R.V. The wine’s fresh side and dusty structure suggest it 91 (Dão). Dominated by Touriga Nacional, this abv: 13% Price: $9 will be ready to drink quickly, so go for it from late single-vineyard wine is deliciously dense with dark 2020. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. fruits still firmly anchored by tannins. It will obvi- Parras Wines 2017 370 Léguas Red Wine abv: 13% Price: $10 ously always be a structured wine with power and 88 (Douro). For full review see page 18. Best density. Drink now. EcoValley. —R.V. Buy. Lusovini 2918 Palavrar (Douro). This floral abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 85 wine has a perfumed character as well as ripe, open tannins and black fruits. It is soft, rich Fontes da Cunha 2013 Nono Winemaker’s Quinta Vale D. Maria 2017 Rufo Tinto and ready to drink. Lusovini USA. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 Selection (Dão). A generous, full-bodied 88 (Douro). A superrich and ripe wine, this abv: 14% Price: $10 wine, now properly mature, this is ripe and packed has an open, generous structure to go with the layer with licorice as well as juicy black plum fruits. Nono of fine tannins. Juicy with red fruits and well bal- Quinta da Pacheca 2017 Pacheca Superior is an endearing word in Portuguese for grandfather, anced, the wine is ready to drink. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. 84 (Douro). The wine, despite its alcohol, and the wine was produced to honor the current abv: 15% Price: $14 seems thin with acidity and tannins more than generation’s grandfather. The wine, a blend of the fruit. It does need to soften and that perhaps will main Dão grapes, is ready to drink. EcoValley. —R.V. Fiuza 2014 Casa d’Arrochella The Classic help. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 87 Douro Valley (Douro). From the vineyard of abv: 14% Price: $12 Arrochella in Douro Superior, this wine is a classic Freire Lobo 2015 Vigno Tinto Reserva (Dão). blend, hence the name. It is a smoothly textured, 90 Now mature, the wine has a dusty character now mature wine with soft tannins and juicy red DÃO that comes from the firm tannins. A smoky charac- berry fruits. The wine is attractively balanced and ter balances the ripe fruits that have now softened fruity. Drink now. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. Quinta da Mariposa 2014 Retro (Dão). A into the wine’s texture. Drink this attractive wine abv: 14% Price: $25 94 powerful blend that includes mixed field- now. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. blend grapes, the wine is smooth, lush, textured and abv: 13% Price: $24 Messias 2017 Superior (Douro). A ripe, gen- with a fine balance between dusty tannins and fresh 87 erous wine, this is full of black fruits that black currant fruits. The wine is impressive, now Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2016 Ribeiro fit neatly into the soft texture. The berry flavors are fully mature, and ready to drink. NLC Wines. —R.V. 90 Santo Automático Colheita Harvest (Dão). rich, full of spice and integrated tannins. Drink now. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 This is openly ripe wine, a blend of Touriga Nacio- LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. nal, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro. The tannins and abv: 13% Price: $20 Messias 2013 Quinta do Penedo Reserva the bold black fruits are almost fully developed, giv- 93 (Dão). A wine that is only made in top vin- ing a strongly structured character, richness and the Messias 2016 Selection (Douro). A blend of tages, this is fully mature. Its black fruits have devel- potential to age for another year. Drink from 2021. 87 four classic Douro grapes, the wine has some oped into generous secondary flavors, and spice and Wine Bridge Imports. —R.V. structure as well as rounded black fruit flavors. The tannins have come together with the wine’s fruiti- abv: 14% Price: $25 wine, with its freshness as well as its fine fruitiness, ness. Drink this serious wine now. Lieber Bros Inc. is ready to drink. Lieber Bros Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Messias 2016 Quinta do Penedo (Dão). abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 90 Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro are blended into this satisfyingly ripe and structured Quinta da Rede 2017 Rede Colheita (Douro). Global Wines 2015 Cabriz Reserva (Dão). wine. Its smoky flavors come from wood aging that 87 The estate, at the western end of the Douro 92 This popular range of wines has a serious has softened the mineral texture and brought out wine region, has produced a rich wine. Layers of side in the reserva wines. This structured and full-

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BUYINGGUIDE fine black fruit flavors. Drink now. Lieber Bros Inc. blend that is soft and easy. Black fruits and gener- Messias 2016 Quinta do Valdoeiro (Bair- —R.V. ous tannins give a spicy, smoky wine, full of fruit 85 rada). Touches of Syrah and a dusting of abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and lightly textured. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Cabernet Sauvignon have been blended with Baga Best Buy. —R.V. and Touriga Nacional in this soft, fruity wine. It has Wines & Winemakers 2017 Lua Cheia em abv: 13.5% Price: $12 a featherlight texture, and is much more about per- 90 Vinhas Velhas Insurgente (Dão). This blend fumed and jammy fruit. Drink now. Lieber Bros Inc. of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro has a finely Lusovini 2017 Flor de Viseu Selection (Dão). —R.V. delineated structure that derives from fruit tannins, 86 Named after the largest city in the Dão abv: NA Price: $15 minerality and touches of spice. Produced from old region, the wine is soft, perfumed and very drink- vines, the wine has a rich density, layers of black- able now. Black fruits and acidity come together in berry fruits and a generous texture. The wine will an attractive, easygoing wine. Lusovini USA. Best LISBOA be ready from late 2020. Multiple U.S. importers. Buy. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9 Adega Mãe 2015 Terroir (Lisboa). Now fully abv: 14% Price: $18 92 mature, this is a dense wine. The tannins Lusovini 2017 Nelus (Dão). Perfumed with give a dry core while they support the bold black Borges 2015 Reserva Tinto (Dão). The wine’s 86 attractive wood-aging flavors and hints of fruits with their spicy black plum flavors. This is a 89 ripe fruit is balanced by a fresh minerality eucalyptus, the wine is fruity and fresh. Tannins are seriously rich wine that is just ready to drink. Aidil that gives structure and a backdrop of tannins. Just light, a fine support to the vivid fruit. Drink now. Wines/Old World Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. approaching maturity, the wine still has plenty of Lusovini USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45 acidity to allow it to age further. Drink from 2021. abv: 13% Price: $10 JMV USA. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2016 Consensus Pinot Noir-Touriga abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Global Wines 2016 Astrolabium Reserva 91 Nacional (Lisboa). For full review see page 12. 85 (Dão). This is a soft, fruity wine that has a abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Fontes da Cunha 2016 Mondeco (Dão). The gentle texture and ripe black fruits. There is a touch 88 20% wood aging has given this wine both of caramel as well as plenty of open fruitiness. Drink Adega Mãe 2015 Petit Verdot (Lisboa). its ripe structure and spicy flavors. They balance now. 4Front Imports, LLC. —R.V. 90 While Petit Verdot is almost never seen on with the enjoyable, open blackberry fruits and acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 its own in its home territory of Bordeaux, the Por- ity that propel the wine forward. It is now ready to tuguese winemakers seem to have a fascination for drink. EcoValley. —R.V. it. This firmly structured wine has solid tannins as abv: 13.5% Price: $15 BAIRRADA well as the perfumed dense black fruits associated with the grape. Drink now but expect the tannins to Global Wines 2016 Cabriz Escolha (Dão). A Aveleda 2016 Follies Casa da Aguieira Touriga remain. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. 88 wine that was aged only in tanks, this is 92 Nacional (Bairrada). The wine comes from abv: 14.5% Price: $16 packed with Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz red Quinta da Aguieira in the central Bairrada region. berry fruits. Fruit tannins give some structure to With its ripe tannins and concentrated black fruits, Casa Santos Lima 2017 Stones & Bones the vibrant fruitiness. The wine is ready to drink. the wine is powerful and perfumed. Its richness 90 (Lisboa). While this wine with its blend of Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. comes both from the fruit and the wood aging. This Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alicante Bouschet abv: 13% Price: $10 fine wine finishes with a fresh edge of acidity. Drink and Syrah is ready to drink, it also has some aging from 2021. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. potential. That comes from the forward ripe fruits Lusovini 2015 Flor de Nelas Reseva (Dão). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA as well as the dry edge of tannins. Drink now, but 88 With its typical blend for the Dão of Touriga even better, wait until late 2020. Lionstone Inter- Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz, the wine car- Lusovini 2015 Regateiro Reserva (Bairrada). national. —R.V. ries attractive succulent black fruits. It is struc- 90 A rich blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional, abv: 14% Price: $19 tured while also now ready to drink. Lusovini USA. the wine has plenty of firm tannins among the ripe Best Buy. —R.V. mature fruits. Wood aging has added spice to the Quinta do Boição 2015 Grande Reserva (Lis- abv: 13% Price: $10 wine that is elegant and full of structure as well as 90 boa). The vineyard, in the town of Bucelas, fruit and that is definitely ready to drink. Lusovini has delivered a spicy, ripe and black fruit-flavored Parras Wines 2017 Dharma Red (Dão). For USA. —R.V. wine. There is plenty of acidity as well as a ripe 88 full review see page 18. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 structure from 50-year-old vines. Drink this con- abv: 13% Price: $12 centrated wine now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Lusovini 2016 Torre de Coimbra (Bairrada). abv: 14% Price: $35 Quinta da Mariposa 2015 Mariposa (Dão). 87 Named after the tower of the University 88 A true Dão blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga of Coimbra, this perfumed wine is a blend of four Casa Santos Lima 2016 Confidencial Reserva Nacional and Jaen, this is a fruit-driven wine. It grapes including the local Baga. There are plenty 89 (Lisboa). This aromatic blend of at least 10 is all about ripe fruit tannins and rich blackberry of tannins but they have easily balanced with the different varieties is both juicy and rich. Fine tan- fruits. Dense with a smoky character, the wine is blackberry fruits. The wine is ready to drink. Luso- nins steal through the black fruits to give both a ready to drink. NLC Wines. —R.V. vini USA. Best Buy. —R.V. rich structure and density. The wine with its bright abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $10 acidity at the end is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Fontes da Cunha 2015 Nono (Dão). This ripe, Messias 2018 Selection (Bairrada). A blend abv: 13.5% Price: $15 87 well-structured wine is full of rich black- 85 of Baga and the softer Merlot gives a red berry fruits and juicy acidity along with a dry layer fruit- and spice-flavored wine. It is an attractively DFJ Vinhos 2016 Aluado Reserva Alicante of tannins. Drink now. EcoValley. —R.V. lightweight wine that has a bright, fruity character. 89 Bouschet (Lisboa). This generous wine abv: 13.5% Price: $15 It is ready to drink. Direct Wine Imports. Best Buy. brings out both the structure and the dark fruits —R.V. and color of Alicante Bouschet. It is a rich wine, Global Wines 2016 Grillos Reserva (Dão). abv: 12% Price: $10 87 Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Jaen in a

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 juicy with berry flavors and with a light structure. acter. Its acidity keeps everything fresh. Drink now. Terras de Alter 2016 Terra d’Alter Telhas (Alen- Drink now. Lionstone International. —R.V. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. 91 tejano). A blend that is based on the north- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ern Rhône style in France, with Syrah just cut with Viognier, the wine is dense and powerful. It has Adega Mãe 2017 Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). Santos & Seixo 2017 Sublinhado Tinto (Lis- dark tannins and concentrated black plum fruits. 87 This is a fine rendition of the Touriga Nacio- 86 boa). An aromatic, soft and ripe wine, this Perfumed and superripe, the wine could age further. nal grape, full of perfumed tannins as well as bold has bold red fruits and acidity that is right upfront. Drink from 2021. Artisan Vines Distributing. Edi- black fruits. Its structure gives the wine weight, It is all about berry flavors and a juicy texture, and tors’ Choice. —R.V. while the hint of pepper is a reminder of the wine’s it’s easy to drink. Drink now. Multiple U.S. import- abv: 15% Price: $25 alcohol. Drink from late 2020. Aidil Wines/Old ers. Best Buy. —R.V. World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Wines & Winemakers 2017 Album Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $16 91 (Alentejano). The luscious fruit of an Alen- tejo wine is in full force here. The wine, with its Adega Mãe 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lis- ALENTEJANO 40% Petit Verdot, is dark colored and rich in black 87 boa). The black currant fruits and the tan- fruits and juicy acidity. Tannins still show firmly, nic structure are both here in this wine, and they Terras de Alter 2012 Terra d’Alter Impar (Alen- ready to soften over the next few months. Drink are delivered with oomph. The wood-aging flavors 93 tejano). While the wine would, ideally, have from 2021. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. are too prominent at this stage and hopefully will lower alcohol, this rich and solidly textured wine abv: 14% Price: $18 soften. Wait until late 2020. Aidil Wines/Old World is still impressive. Smoky aromas and dense black Import. —R.V. fruits are combined with a layer of juicy acidity. The Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Guarda Rios abv: 13.5% Price: $16 result is an intense wine that is now ready to drink. 90 Gold Edition (Alentejano). Wood aging for Artisan Vines Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 10 months is the secret behind the structure and Aveleda 2018 12 Knights (Lisboa). Named abv: 15.5% Price: $65 richness of this wine. It has bold strokes of black 87 after a group of 12 knights who fought for fruits that spread across the palate, lifted by the Portugal in the Middle Ages, the wine is a rounded Torre de Palma 2017 Alentejano. With the juicy acidity. The wine will be ready to drink by late and ripe blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and 93 chance to age for a couple of years, this is 2020. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Alicante Bouschet. Its ripe tannins and generous becoming an impressive wine. Its rich tannins have abv: 13.5% Price: $NA spicy black fruits are immediately attractive and the slid into the succulent black fruits. Spice from wood wine is ready to drink. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. aging and rich berry flavors are maturing well. Drink Quinta do Paral 2017 Alentejano. The wine abv: 13.5% Price: $13 from 2021. HTB Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 is all about fruitiness, ripe tannins and a abv: 14.5% Price: $28 rich structure. The blackberry flavors and the solid Aveleda 2018 Casal Garcia Tinto (Lisboa). A structure of the wine is developing well, promis- 87 change of location for this red wine from the Torre de Palma 2018 Alentejano. Of course, ing fine tannins and great power. Drink from 2021. Douro to the Lisboa region, has produced a softly 92 the wine is young. But its ripe potential is MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. textured and red fruited wine. It is full of fruitiness, there, bursting to develop into a smoothly textured abv: 14% Price: $15 light on tannins and with some spicy freshness at wine. Ripe tannins, generous black fruits and acid- the end. Drink now. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. ity and a generous aftertaste. Drink from 2022. HTB Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2017 Senses abv: 13% Price: $NA Imports. —R.V. 89 Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). Pure ripe, abv: 14.5% Price: $28 powerful Alicante Bouschet has big tannins and Casa Santos Lima 2016 Quinta do Espírito bold black fruits. Its structure and intense suc- 87 Santo Tinta Roriz-Castelão (Lisboa). From Herdade Grande 2015 Grande Reserva (Alen- culent acidity gives the wine great richness. It is one of the vineyards owned by Casa Santos Lima, 91 tejano). A spicy, ripe wine that has poise as an open wine, showing all its facets right upfront. the wine is rich and dense. It has both powerful well as richness. With 60% Alicante Bouschet in Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. black fruits and spice, as well as pepper from the the blend, its color is dense and dark, while to taste abv: 14% Price: $15 alcohol. Not for the fainthearted, the wine is ready the wine has powerful tannins. Black fruits show to drink. Lionstone International. —R.V. strongly along with acidity at the end in a wine that Herdade de Ceuta 2017 Alentejano. A ripe, abv: 15% Price: $13 is ready to drink. —R.V. 89 smoothly textured wine that has forward abv: 14% Price: $37 black fruits boosted by spice and wood aging. It is a Adega Mãe 2017 Pinot Noir (Lisboa). Red dense wine with dusty tannins that have fully inte- 86 fruits show strongly in this aromatic wine. Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2015 Maria Mora grated into the fine fruits. This blend is now ready It has a rustic character that goes with the grape 91 Reserva (Alentejano). A dense and power- to drink. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. sometimes, with some bitter red cherry flavors as fully ripe wine, this has dark tannins that have now abv: 13.5% Price: $29 well as acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Aidil reached maturity. Its bold texture has taken in the Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. black fruits and created a balanced, toasty and spicy Herdade Grande 2015 Gerações Colheita abv: 13.5% Price: $16 wine that is now showing secondary flavors. Drink 89 Seleccionada (Alentejano). This mature now. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. wine has finely ripe Alicante Bouschet leading the Casa Santos Lima 2018 Passion of Portugal abv: 14% Price: $20 taste palate to rich tannins and floral black fruit fla- 86 Reserva (Lisboa). A spicy wine with light vors. The wine, with its generous texture, is ready wood aging and a fine balance between acidity and Quinta do Paral 2017 Vinhas Velhas (Alente- to drink. —R.V. red berry fruits, the wine is soft. With its open char- 91 jano). A dense, powerful wine that exudes abv: 14% Price: $23 acter and fruitiness, the wine is ready to drink. Pas- weight and concentration. There is nothing shy sion World Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. about this wine. Its tannins and dark fruits are Lusovini 2017 Sericaia (Alentejano). The abv: 13% Price: $10 blockbusters—juicy, full bodied and ready to pair 88 warmth and sun of the Alentejo comes out with the strongest meat dishes. Drink this massive strongly in this ripe, full-bodied wine. Named after DFJ Vinhos 2018 Casa do Lago (Lisboa). A wine from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. a spicy, creamy local dessert, the structure is a soft 86 blend of five grapes, the wine is juicy and abv: 15% Price: $45 softly textured, with a bright, lightly jammy char-

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BUYINGGUIDE

background to the generous fruitiness of this wine with acidity and with fine fruits from the blend of Bouschet and Sousão—the three castas—has cre- that is ready to drink. Lusovini USA. —R.V. Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. ated a rich and dense wine, full of youthful black abv: 14% Price: $14 Drink now or wait until at least 2021. LGL Imports fruits. Wood aging has contributed to the wine’s LLC. —R.V. richness and concentration. Drink from 2021. Votto Lusovini 2018 Terras de Fialho (Alentejano). abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Vines Importing. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 A rounded, ripe wine, accessible now, has abv: 13.5% Price: $15 black fruits, a touch of licorice and a jammy struc- Rui Reguinga 2017 Tributo (Tejo). It’s the ture. The wine is ready to drink. Lusovini USA. Best 93 predominant Syrah that makes this wine so Caves Dom Teodosio 2016 Quinta S João Buy. —R.V. rich and spicy. Add in the 12 months in new wood 88 Batista Reserva Touriga Franca-Alicante abv: 14% Price: $10 and the wine is powerful, still young and packed Bouschet (Tejo). With six months in wood, the with juicy black fruits. The firm tannins and exu- wine has a fine spicy touch. It has ripe red berry Terras de Alter 2018 Terra d’Alter ARG Ara- berant fruit will soften into a serious, rich wine. fruits and perfumed acidity from the blend of 70% 86 gonez (Alentejano). This is a zero-added- Drink from 2022. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Selec- Touriga Franca with Alicante Bouschet. The wine is sulfur wine with big, soft black fruits and gentle tion. —R.V. ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. tannins. It is juicy and full of red berry fruits, with abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $20 a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Companhia das abv: 14.5% Price: $16 93 Lezírias Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas (Tejo). OTHER RED WINES Vines planted within a national reserve have Terras de Alter 2018 Terra d’Alter Trincadeira-­ produced this powerful blend of Touriga Nacio- Rui Roboredo Madeira 2017 Beyra Grande 86 Aragonez-Syrah (Alentejano). A bold, ripe nal, Touriga Franca and Alicante Bouschet. The 93 Reserva (Beira Interior). At 2,400 feet, the wine that has soft tannins and juicy red berry fla- wine’s almost black color and dense blackberry vineyards for this wine give fruit that have a tex- vors. With its fresh character and smooth texture, fruits are balanced by the solid tannins that are tured, elegant character. This wood-aged wine, this wine is ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distribut- just approaching maturity. Drink from late 2020. while high in alcohol, has a stylish mix of perfumed ing. Best Buy. —R.V. Amphora Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. fruit and hints of mint from the wood along with abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $23 density and layered black fruit flavors. Drink from 2022. MS Walker. —R.V. Caves Velhas 2016 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $39 PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL 92 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). This limited-edition­ wine from 100% Touriga Nacional has a fine rich- Valle Pradinhos 2017 Reserva (Trás-os-Mon- Wines & Winemakers 2017 Monte da Baía ness as well as lifted black fruits. It is balanced now, 91 tes). A dense wine, firm with tannins and 91 Reserva (Península de Setúbal). Produced showing a fine poise between acidity and the berry wood-aging flavors. This is smoky and ripe, with at the Ermelinda Freitas winery, the wine is a rich flavors. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. black currant flavors from 50% Cabernet Sauvi- blend in which the local Castelão grape features abv: 13% Price: $20 gnon in the blend. The wine has heft and richness prominently. The wood aging adds spice to the red but does need more time. Drink from 2021. Vintage fruits and dense texture. The wine is still young and Caves Dom Teodosio 2014 Quinta S João Wine Marketing. —R.V. will be better from 2021. Wine Without Borders. 91 Batista Grande Reserva (Tejo). This is a pow- abv: 14% Price: $21 —R.V. erful wine of black fruits that have now fully inte- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 grated the tannic structure. Wood aged for a year, Valle Pradinhos 2017 The Lost Corner (Trás- the wine has a smooth texture as well as ripe tan- 91 os-Montes). The wine comes from the remote José Maria da Fonseca 2017 Periquita nins and acidity. It is an impressive wine with its far northeast corner of Portugal, hence the name 90 Reserva (Península de Setúbal). It is a com- richness tempered by freshness. Drink now. LGL of the wine. This wood-aged, richly tannic wine bination of fruit selection, a longer time in wood Imports LLC. —R.V. has big spice, big black fruit flavors and a big, open and the extra bottle aging that gives this wine its abv: 14% Price: $35 structure. Acidity cuts through the wine that will reserva label. With a dense texture and spice and be ready to drink from 2021. Vintage Wine Market- richness from the wood and the juicy black fruits, Caves Velhas 2017 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva ing. —R.V. the wine is developing well and will be ready from 91 (Tejo). This is a stylish blend of Syrah, abv: 13.5% Price: $29 late 2020. Palm Bay International. —R.V. Castelão and Touriga Nacional. Its black fruits join abv: 90% Price: $17 spice from wood aging and some firm tannins to Mouchão 2016 Dom Rafael (Alentejo). yield a balanced wine that will age well. Drink this 89 Highly aromatic and packed with jammy José Maria da Fonseca 2018 Periquita Tinto fine wine from 2021. LGL Imports LLC.Best Buy. fruit, this wine is a selection from old vines. Its tan- 87 (Península de Setúbal). This is the latest —R.V. nins and ripe black fruit flavors are at their best, vintage of the oldest branded wine in Portugal, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 showing both structure and great fruitiness. Drink dating back to the 19th century. Its attractive ripe now. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. cherry and red plum fruits are lifted with acidity Caves Dom Teodosio 2016 Quinta S João abv: 14.5% Price: $13 and touches of new wood aging. Drink this ripe wine 90 Batista Reserva Touriga Nacional-Cabernet now. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V. Sauvignon (Tejo). The second in a pair of reservas Global Wines 2017 C de Cabriz (Terras do abv: 13% Price: $10 with differing blends, this is sophisticated, ripe 85 Dão). A young, fruity wine, this is fresh with wine bringing together two strongly structured lightly structured berry fruits and fine, forward grapes into a blend that is much greater than the acidity. This is a wine to be drunk immediately. TEJO two parts. It is rich and dense with fine tannins Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. and black currant fruits. Drink from late 2020. LGL abv: 12.5% Price: $7 Caves Velhas 2015 Cabeça de Toiro Grande Imports LLC. —R.V. 93 Reserva (Tejo). A wine that still has all its abv: 14% Price: $20 Rui Roboredo Madeira 2018 Beyra (Beira tannins intact and that can age further, this is rich 85 Interior). High altitude vineyards south of in both structure and great bold fruits. The tex- Fiuza 2018 3 Castas Tinto Reserva (Tejo). the Douro Valley are the source for this open, black ture of the wine is now smooth and dense, laced 90 The blend of Touriga Nacional, Alicante fruit-flavored wine. It has an attractively perfumed

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 character as well as light tannins that are already Quinta Vale D. Maria 2015 Late Bottled Vin- as tannins. It is dry, showing the blackberry fruits softening. The wine will be ready from late 2020. 92 tage Port. Fermented in open stone lagars, with acidity as well as richness. Drink now or cer- MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. this ripe wine was aged for two years in large bar- tainly until 2023. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 rels. It is now fully mature, with its black fruits abv: 20% Price: $34 transformed into sumptuous and full-bodied rich- ness. Drink now. Aveleda Inc. —R.V. Duorum 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port. PORT abv: 20% Price: $26 90 This is a sweet style of wine, rich and full of softly textured prune and raisin fruits. It has Quinta Vale D. Maria 1969 Very Old Tawny Van Zellers NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port. an immediately attractive ripeness and richness, 96 Colheita Port. This limited production wine 92 Poised between fruit and wonderful old although because it was bottled with a proper cork from one cask of aged tawny is amazingly concen- gold wood-aging flavors, the wine is rich and rela- (rather than just a stopper), it could age well and trated. The spice, the wood flavors and the acidity tively sweet. Its dried fruit flavors are balanced profitably. —R.V. have all come together to a point of supreme matu- by the wine’s intense spice and acidity that comes abv: 20% Price: $30 rity. This is a fine wine, ready to drink and very from wood aging. Drink now. MS Walker. Editors’ memorable. MS Walker. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. Messias 2007 Colheita Port. Wood aged abv: 20% Price: $800 abv: 20% Price: $72 90 since the harvest and bottled in 2019, the wine certainly shows many of the old wood and W. & J. Graham’s 1940 Single Harvest Tawny Van Zellers 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port. spice characters of an aged tawny. However, because 96 Port. This rare limited-edition Colheita 92 This is a finely poised wine, balancing the it is still a relatively young wine, it also has red fruit tawny is one in a series of releases from the pro- rich, dried fruit flavors along with a structure that flavors that come through the prune and raisin ducer’s old stocks. It is a classic with its old gold should allow this Port to age. The balance extends flavors. Well in balance and ready to drink. Direct character and is very concentrated while still having to the harmony between the sweet fruit and the dry Wine Imports. —R.V. amazing freshness. Its richness is palpable—a testa- tannins. This wine can be drunk now but will be abv: 20% Price: $33 ment to what age and perfect cellaring can do. Drink better from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. now. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $33 Messias 2005 Colheita Port. Still young for abv: 20% Price: $1,200 90 a Colheita wood-aged Port, this still has W. & J. Graham’s 2014 Late Bottled Vintage much of its original ripe fruitiness. At the same W. & J. Graham’s 2005 Quinta dos Malvedos 92 Port. Perfumed and elegant, following the time there are sultana flavors and wood spice fla- 94 Vintage Port. Quinta dos Malvedos is Gra- Graham house style, this is a balanced Port. It is vors from the casks in which the wine has been ham’s flagship vineyards. This single quinta vin- poised between sweetness and a core of dryness aged. Like all tawny Ports, the wine is ready to drink tage, made in a year when no general vintage was both from tannins and restrained fruitiness. Being a once bottled. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V. declared, shows the great structure and fine per- Late Bottled Vintage, it can be drunk now, although abv: 20% Price: $40 fumes that comes from this privileged site. Rich in it is likely it will be even better from 2021. Premium plummy black fruits, powered still by tannins, the Port Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Quinta Vale D. Maria NV Lote No 17 Reserva wine is approaching maturity. Drink now, although abv: 20% Price: $25 90 Port. While this is categorized as a some- it will age for many years. Premium Port Wines, Inc. what lowly Reserva Port, it has much more to it. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Dow’s 2013 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This From its rich field-blend old vine origins, it pro- abv: 20% Price: $67 91 wine comes from the original member of the claims richness, spice, dried fruits and the ability to Symington family of companies. The style of the age. Drink now, but it will be even better from 2021. Quinta das Carvalhas 2017 Vintage Port. A Port, as always with Dow’s, is on the dry side, giving Aveleda Inc. —R.V. 93 field blend from old vines and crushed in structure as well as pure dried fruits and tannins. abv: 20% Price: $16 open stone lagars, the wine is massively structured That suggests this LBV could age. Drink now, but and obviously set for long aging. It is a sweeter style it will better from 2022. Premium Port Wines, Inc. NV Old Tawny 10 Years Port. The of vintage, although at this stage, the tannins are —R.V. 90 youngest in the great range of Sandeman still powerful. Dried fruits and fine perfumes are abv: 20% Price: $25 aged tawnies, this 10-year-old brings out fruit as promising to balance the structure. Drink from well as wood flavors. That gives the wine freshness 2028. Vinofiamma. —R.V. Quinta das Carvalhas 2015 Late Bottled Vin- to balance its natural richness, spice and fine acid- abv: 20% Price: $60 91 tage Port. A ripe and expressive wine, this is ity. Dried fruits come through at the end. The wine dense and full of black fruit, raisins and prune fla- is, like all aged tawnies, ready to drink. Evaton, Inc. Van Zellers NV 30 Year Old Tawny Port. The vors. It has a fine structure, with tannins balancing —R.V. 93 superlative wood and dried fruit flavors the richness of the fruit. It could age, so drink now abv: 20% Price: $32 have coalesced to yield an intense wine. Its sweet or wait until 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. sultana flavors and generous richness go with the abv: 20% Price: $25 Borges 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This spice and pepper edge from the wood aging. It is a 88 is a dusty wine, both from the aromas and great wine that is ready to drink. MS Walker. —R.V. Quinta de la Rosa 2015 Late Bottled Vintage the tannic texture. It is on the sweet and soft side, abv: 20% Price: $115 91 Port. Fruit that was foot trodden in open open and easy with dried plums and a light burst of lagars has produced a ripe, openly textured and spirit at the end. Drink now. JMV USA. —R.V. Van Zellers NV 40 Year Old Tawny Port. This dense wine. The fine tannins are balanced by the abv: 19.5% Price: $18 93 old Port is extremely intense and full of acid- dried raisin and rich damson flavors of the wine ity as well as richly sweet textures. Concentrated that could age further. Drink now, or age until 2025. Burmester 1997 Vintage Port. From a good and beautifully ripe, the wine bears its age well. It Winesellers, Ltd. —R.V. 88 Port vintage, this wine is now approach- is the sort of wine that has to be drunk slowly and abv: 19.5% Price: $29 ing maturity. It is light, with a gentle texture that meditatively. Like all aged tawnies, it can be drunk indicates it will not age much further. But with its now. MS Walker. —R.V. Smith Woodhouse 2008 Late Bottled Vintage attractive nutty quality, the wine is ready to drink. abv: 20% Price: $130 91 Port. The Late Bottled Vintage Ports from Wine In-Motion. —R.V. this producer are made to be aged after bottling. abv: 20% Price: $NA That’s why this wine still has great freshness as well

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Cockburn’s 2014 Late Bottled Vintage Port. nose of this wine that is shot through with lemon This wine is rich, dry and fresh in equal measure. 88 In a lush, ripe style, this is an immediately freshness. The dry palate follows the lemon theme Drink now–2035. Votto Vines Importing. Editors’ drinkable style of LBV. The fruits have freshness as and then turns into a concentrated agent of fresh- Choice. —A.K. well as sweetness, giving the wine a fine balance and ness, depth and incisiveness. It’s an uncompromis- abv: 13% Price: $45 density. The Port is certainly ready to drink. Pre- ing and bone-dry Riesling. Drink 2025–2045. Taub mium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. Family Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Julien Schaal 2018 Kastelberg Grand Cru abv: 20% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $120 95 Schiste Riesling (Alsace). A subtle nose shimmers with nuances of apricot, peach, passion Delaforce 2013 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Trimbach 2017 Schlossberg Grand Cru Ries- fruit, creamy lemon and something like wet pebble. 88 The wine, from a field blend vineyard, is 97 ling (Alsace). The nose of this wine is shy The palate of this wine is fluid but linear, juicy, con- full of delicious, jammy black fruits. Raisins and but centers on tart lemon freshness. The palate centrated and tingling with freshness and ripeness. dried black currant flavors are balanced by the dry- adds pithy texture and an earthy tone, but leaves It’s a subtle wine with a concentrated, firm, fresh ness of the Delaforce house style. The wine has been no doubt about its stony concentration. For now and vivid core of fruit ripeness. The finish is dry and bottled ready to drink. Signature Imports. —R.V. this wine is taut, tight and young, and still needs long. Distinctive Domaines. —A.K. abv: 20% Price: $20 to relax. A vibrant Amalfi lemon verve on the bone- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 dry finish gives a glimpse of pleasure to come. Drink Real Companhia Velha 2015 Síbio Late Bot- 2025–2045. Taub Family Selections. Cellar Selec- Domaine Charles Baur 2015 Brand Grand Cru 88 tled Vintage Port. This quinta, above the tion. —A.K. 94 Riesling (Alsace). A hint of beeswax enve- Douro and close to the village of Alijó, has produced abv: 13% Price: $105 lopes ripe and rising notes of rich pear, creating an a soft, perfumed style of LBV. Its dried fruits and aromatic nose that suggests some evolution and raisin flavors gently cushion the light tannins. It is Julien Schaal 2018 Rangen Grand Cru Volca- ripeness. The palate of this wine comes in with a bottled ready to drink. Vinofiamma. —R.V. 96 nique Riesling (Alsace). A touch of smoke balm-like, smooth texture and hint of sweetness abv: 20% Price: $20 precedes ripe notions of Amalfi lemon peel on the that boosts intense pear and peach notes. That nose of this wine. The palate then conveys a sinu- beeswax note remains constant and counterpoints ous, almost oily elixir-like concentrate of peach, the fruit alongside the ripe, sunny freshness. The OTHER plum and citrus. Compact, intense and fresh, this finish is dry. This wine is evolving beautifully and wine has an energy all of its own. The finish is dry will continue for some years. Drink now–2035. Best Mouchão 2013 Sobremesa Dessert Tonel Aged and intense with fruit. Drink 2035–2045. Distinc- Case Wines. —A.K. 91 Alicante Bouschet (Alentejo). Aged five years tive Domaines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 in wood after fermentation in open stone lagars, this abv: 12.5% Price: $45 is an intense, fortified wine. Its ripe black fruit fla- Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Altenberg de Ber- vors and almost black color come from the Alicante Trimbach 2017 Sélection de Vieilles Vignes 94 gheim Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Russet- Bouschet, which also brings in an edge of tannins to 96 Riesling (Alsace). For full review see page 5. pear peel, juicy Mirabelle and a hint of wet earth the sweet fruits. Drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. are all discernible but shy on the nose of this wine. abv: 20% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $36 On the palate, the fruit comes across with a fresher aspect that suggests green pear and lemon zesti- Trimbach 2016 Mandelberg Grand Cru Ries- ness, despite the warm year. The body is concen- ALSACE 96 ling (Alsace). Lifted chamomile notes and trated, dry and linear, driven by freshness. Drink hints of heady chamomile tincture hint at some now–2032. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. RIESLING development of this wine. The slender palate shim- abv: 13% Price: $25 mers with vivid lemon freshness, notions of conifer Trimbach 2017 Clos Ste. Hune Riesling and crushed herb, pleasantly bitter notes of pith Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Schoenenbourg 97 (Alsace). Juicy, fresh white peach on the and an uncompromising notion of hard, wet stone. 94 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A hint of wet nose of this wine is framed by lemon. Zesty headi- This wine is extraordinary in its finesse and energy. chalk and smoky reduction hover above ripe, peachy ness presses pleasure buttons in the brain with The finish is bone dry. Drink until 2045. Taub Fam- fruit on the nose of this wine. With more air, hints ethereal lift. The palate echoes that zesty, juicy ily Selections. —A.K. of mandarin and candied peach shine through. The lemon theme, teetering between tart freshness and abv: 13% Price: $NA palate frames this ripe fruit with Amalfi lemon aromatic abundance. Bone dry, incisive and concen- freshness that gives poise and concentration to the trated, the wine is gorgeous. Wait for it to unfold. Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Rosacker Grand Cru opulence. The finish is dry, vivid and fresh. Votto Drink 2025–2045. Taub Family Selections. Cellar 95 Riesling (Alsace). Fresh chamomile leaves Vines Importing. —A.K. Selection. —A.K. and a notion of crushed yarrow give freshness to the abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $400 nose of this wine that is intense but nuanced. On the palate, freshness frames and shapes everything, Domaine Charles Baur 2017 Eichberg Grand Trimbach 2017 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling despite the rounded, almost gilded peach fruit of 93 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Notions of ripe and 97 (Alsace). Tart lemon has an edge of soft- 2018. Ripe lemon brightness gives concentration, juicy Mirabelle plum and peach fill the nose of this ness reminiscent of a fresh Mirabelle tart. The structure and drive to this gorgeous dry Riesling. wine. They also imbue the palate with even more palate of this wine majors on bright lemon juici- Drink now–2040. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. juiciness and concentrated fruit but here they are ness with mouthwatering efficiency. For now, the abv: 13% Price: $25 countered by vivid, almost candied lemon fresh- wine is tight, clenched and needs to come out of its ness. This wine is ripe and luscious but dry. Drink shell and share its stony secrets. It offers wonderful Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Sommerberg Grand now–2035. Best Case Wines. —A.K. concentration, poise and a bone-dry finish. Drink 95 Cru Riesling (Alsace). A tropical overtone of abv: 13.5% Price: $36 2025–2045. Taub Family Selections. Cellar Selec- candied pineapple on the nose of this wine promises tion. —A.K. opulence and richness, while a tinge of bergamot Julien Schaal 2018 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru abv: 13.5% Price: $70 intensifies the exotic impression. The concentrated 93 Gypse Riesling (Alsace). A touch of reduc- palate brims with pineapple and canned peach but tion still accompanies vivid hints of peach and Trimbach 2017 Geisberg Grand Cru Riesling remains pristine, dry and even racy despite all this Mirabelle plum on the nose of this wine. On the 97 (Alsace). Floral notes play about the peachy richness that reflects the heat of the 2018 summer. palate the opulence of the fruit becomes appar-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 ent in the golden, juicy flow that brims with ripe- palate comes in with welcome freshness that holds this wine comes in with freshness and a pithy con- ness. Everything is checked and countered by vivid, notes of rich Mirabelle and ripe lemon. This bright- centration that gives a little texture, too. The finish bright freshness that almost has a pleasantly bitter ness and vigor spread throughout this slender, light is bright, rounded and fresh. Multiple U.S. import- edge. It’s a rich but dry and streamlined Riesling wine that finishes with refreshing dryness. Grape ers. —A.K. of immense concentration. Distinctive Domaines. Expectations (CA). —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $16 —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $25 Cave de Turckheim 2018 Domaine Jean Sipp 2018 Les Trois 89 (Alsace). Bright and subtle notes of green Trimbach 2017 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). For 90 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Lemon and yellow pear on the nose of this wine promise freshness. 93 full review see page 9. apple on the nose of this wine promise both ripe- The palate presents that pretty fruit in a harmoni- abv: 13% Price: $30 ness and freshness. The palate duly delivers with ous, bright and juicy palate with a fresh, dry finish. generous fruit and a slender but generous, vivid and Magnum Wines International. —A.K. Trimbach 2018 Riesling (Alsace). For full very fresh body. The dry finish underlines the full abv: 13% Price: $25 92 review see page 11. fruit. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $NA Cave du Roi Dagobert 2018 Découverte Pinot 89 Blanc (Alsace). The subtle freshness of Domaine Weinbach 2018 Pinot Blanc green pear on the nose creates brightness. The pal- PINOT BLANC 90 (Alsace). The nose of this wine hints shyly ate of this wine broadens into creamier, riper apple at lemon freshness, while the palate brings fresh flesh but the finish of this light, easy wine remains Boeckel 2018 Vin Non Filtré Pinot Blanc pear and lemon-zest purity. The finish is dry, bright, bright, dry and refreshing. Votto Vines Importing. 92 (Alsace). Sun-warmed straw and subtle juicy and enlivening. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. —A.K. yeast are evoked on the shy nose of this wine. The abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 palate adds citrus brightness to these mellow, earthy notions and makes sure this wine stays on Domaines Schlumberger 2018 Les Princes Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2018 Pinot Blanc the slender side, despite that mellow, inviting note 90 Abbés Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Gentle pear 89 (Alsace). Hints of apple and pear appear of golden straw. The finish is long, dry, expressive fruit shimmers on the subtle nose of this wine. The shyly on the nose of this wine. The palate presents and pervaded by gentle lemon freshness. WineWise. palate has unexpected concentration that presents these in a package of harmonious, lemony fresh- —A.K. ripe pear tempered by lemony brightness. This ness, full of ease and fruit. It finishes dry and bright. abv: 12% Price: $16 wine is vivid, slender, generous and dry. Maisons Matinicus Wines, LLC. —A.K. Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Leon Beyer 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Mira- abv: 13% Price: $14 91 belle and apple hints are gentle but pure on Domaine G. Metz 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). the nose of this wine. On the palate they become Allimant-Laugner 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). 89 Faint notes of red apple and wet earth fully fleshed, shining with juicy Mirabelle ripeness. 89 Only the gentlest hint of pear escapes from appear on the shy nose of this wine. The palate The finish is lively, bright and dry, expressing gen- the shy nose of this wine. The palate presents a pic- offers gentle fruitiness, presenting notions of ripe erosity and pristine fruit. Banville Wine Merchants. ture of slender, fresh, bright pear fruit on a body pear on a light, bright and fresh body. Chemin Des —A.K. that is harmonious, light and dry. Vigneron Imports. Vins. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $15 Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 Rosenberg Emile Beyer 2018 Tradition Pinot Blanc 90 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). The nose of this wine Bestheim 2018 Anne de K. Pinot Blanc 89 (Alsace). Hints of mellow, ripe apple flesh is shy, giving only an idea of freshness. The palate 89 (Alsace). Subtle notions of fresh green and rise from the glass. The palate of this wine adds follows this with gentle apple fruit that has a lovely yellow pear rise from the glass. The palate of this creaminess as well as lovely apple freshness. The intensity of ripe lemon. The finish is dry, bright and wine has the same fruity freshness and brims with body is rounded, the finish dry and fresh. Michael vivid. Petit Pois. —A.K. green pear notes. The dry finish has a little warmth. Corso Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25 Saranty Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Domaine Charles Baur 2017 Pinot Blanc Gustave Lorentz 2017 Evidence Pinot Blanc 90 (Alsace). Subtle but fresh hints of green Boeckel 2018 Midelberg Pinot Blanc 89 (Alsace). The ripe aroma of russet-pear pear on the nose of this wine continue seamlessly 89 (Alsace). Subtle notes of ripe pear rise gen- skin and flesh makes for an appetizing nose on this on the palate. The body is slender but generous, tly from the glass, framed by a fainter hint of lemon wine. The same fresh, ripe juiciness appears on the suggesting ripe, juicy Mirabelle. The finish is dry zest. The palate brings brightness and verve to ripe, palate where a tinge of earthiness adds some pith. and refreshing. Best Case Wines. —A.K. juicy Mirabelle plum that defines this dry, vivid and The finish is dry and bright. Quintessential Wines. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 balanced wine. WineWise. —A.K. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $30 Domaine Charles Frey 2018 Rayon de Lune 90 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Bright, almost zesty Cave de Ribeauvillé 2018 Collection Pinot Henri Schoenheitz 2018 Val Saint Gregoire notes of ripe lemon appear on the nose of this wine. 89 Blanc (Alsace). Juicy red apple flashes occa- 89 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Faint but juicy hints The palate adds fresh red apple fruit and presents sionally on the shy nose of this wine. The palate also of ripe, yellow pear appear on the shy nose of this notions of generous ripeness and bright freshness. presents ripe and tart red apple and conveys easy, wine. The body offers ripe pear tinged with earthi- A gentle texture reminiscent of apple flesh leads bright juiciness. It finishes dry and fresh. Multiple ness and mellow creaminess, conveying the gen- onto a dry, vivid finish. BNP Distributing. —A.K. U.S. importers. —A.K. erosity of the warm 2018 vintage. Multiple U.S. abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $15 importers. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Réserve Pinot Cave de Ribeauvillé 2018 Vieilles Vignes 90 Blanc (Alsace). Subtle and fresh notes of 89 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). A shy nose allows Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Pinot Blanc pear can be discerned on the nose of this wine. The glimpses of some pear and earthiness. The palate of 89 (Alsace). Creamy freshness on the nose is

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BUYINGGUIDE reminiscent of Golden Delicious apple flesh. The ness on a light, dry and harmonious body, with a Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). palate of this wine is fruity, vivid and light. It has a fresh finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.K. 87 Hints of ripe pear and Mirabelle on the nose rounded, fruity and dry finish, with a hint of flinty abv: 13.5% Price: $NA of this wine are subtle. The palate is fresh and light, reduction. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. dulling the fruit with a hint of earthiness. The fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Domaine Sipp-Mack 2018 Tradition Pinot ish is dry and fresh. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. 88 Blanc (Alsace). A touch of flinty reduction abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2018 Les Natures Pinot appears on the nose of this wine. The palate pres- 89 Blanc (Alsace). Enticing aromas of ripe ents fresh green pear and bright lemon freshness La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 russet pears fill the nose. The palate of this wine on a harmonious, dry and easy package. Lanterna 87 Tradition Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Faint notes delivers juicy pear ripeness and freshness on a light, Distributors. —A.K. of ripe pear on the nose of this wine become more slightly textured, mouthwatering body. The finish is abv: 13% Price: $19 expressive on the palate. A slight pithy bitterness dry and fresh. The Sorting Table. —A.K. counters the generous fruit and guides the wine to a abv: 12% Price: $23 Dopff & Irion 2018 Cuvée René Dopff Pinot fresh, bright and dry finish. DHI Selections. —A.K. 88 Blanc (Alsace). A shy nose gives almost abv: 11.5% Price: $13 La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 nothing away. The palate of this wine portrays juicy, 89 Cuvée Chevalier Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Notes ripe but fresh pear on a balanced, medium body. Preiss-Zimmer 2018 Réserve Pinot Blanc of ripe pear on the nose of this wine become clearer The finish is dry, bright and juicy. Dreyfus, Ashby & 87 (Alsace). A shy nose on this wine allows and juicier on the balanced, fresh palate. The body Co. Best Buy. —A.K. only a glimpse of pear fruit. This pear dominates is rounded with fruit but finishes dry and fresh. DHI abv: 11.5% Price: $13 the easy-drinking and balanced palate with its juici- Selections. —A.K. ness. The finish is dry and fresh. Metrowine Distri- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Frédéric Mallo 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). bution. —A.K. 88 Fresh and almost lifted pear notes are abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Paul Blanck 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). tinged with hints of chamomile. The palate of this 89 Slight notes of green and yellow pear play wine is juicy, bright and harmonious edged with a Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Tradition Pinot appetizingly on the nose of this wine. Zesty fresh- pithy, earthy and slightly bitter texture. The finish 86 Blanc (Alsace). Some earthiness surrounds ness shows on the easy, dry but taut palate. It’s is dry and bright. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. shy pear notes on the nose of this wine. The pal- clean, bright and dry. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA ate still carries a yeasty funk and presents a pithy, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 earthy core with little fruit. The finish is dry and Frey-Sohler 2018 Réserve Pinot Blanc clean. Lompian Wines. —A.K. Pierre Sparr 2018 Grande Réserve Pinot Blanc 88 (Alsace). Mellow creaminess on the nose of abv: 13% Price: $13 89 (Alsace). Subtle, fresh notes of ripe pear on this wine also shows hints of ripe, yellow pear. The the nose of this wine also appear with brightness on generous palate carries a smidgeon of sweetness. Jean-Louis & Fabienne Mann 2017 Pinot the palate. Generous fruit is met with fresh yeasti- This wine is mellow, fruity and really rounded. Kin- 86 Blanc (Alsace). The nose of this wine just ness on the juicy palate that comes to a fresh, clean dred Vines. —A.K. hints at some earthiness. The palate is rather neu- and dry finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $18 tral, presenting just a hint of ripe pear blended with abv: 12.5% Price: $17 that earthy tinge that lasts to the dry finish. F & R Joseph Fritsch 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Wine Imports. —A.K. René Muré 2018 Les Iris Pinot Blanc (Alsace). 88 Aromatic notions of ripe pear escape the abv: 13.5% Price: $19 89 A whiff of flint is all the nose of this wine shy nose. The palate of this wine adds a pithy, gives away. The palate presents gentle, fresh red slightly bitter edge to this rich, expressive fruit and apple and subtle, bright but ripe lemon. A slight presents a balanced, rounded but fresh white with a SYLVANER yeasty edge gives texture to this light, dry and har- dry, fruity finish. Margaux & Company. —A.K. monious wine. Gargouille Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Renaissance abv: 13% Price: $20 94 Sylvaner (Alsace). A creamy, yeasty note André Kientzler 2018 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). appears on the subtle nose of this wine before a hint Ruhlmann 2018 Plaisir Fruité Pinot Blanc 87 Apple, citrus and an exotic hint of mango of Golden Delicious apple joins in. The palate is con- 89 (Alsace). Fresh notes of ripe, green pear are play on the subtle nose of this wine. The palate centrated and bold in character but subtle in terms vivid on the nose of this wine. The palate tones this broadens out and overlays earthy roundness on of aroma, blending hints of white pepper, beeswax down. It’s juicy, balanced and dry, pleasantly tinged the fruit. The finish is dry, light and easy. AP Wine and dried hay. The finish is refreshing, incisive, long with aromatic pear ripeness. The finish is dry and Imports. —A.K. and dry. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. appetizing. Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Bott Frères 2018 Tradition Pinot Blanc Domaine Roland Schmitt 2018 Grand A du Domaine François Schmitt 2017 Pinot Blanc 87 (Alsace). Apart from subtle apple hints, the 93 Petit Léon Sylvaner (Alsace). On the nose, 88 (Alsace). Somethig creamy, almost milky, nose of this wine does not give a lot away. The pal- something breezy and light suggests river reed, on the nose of this wine accompanies subdued pear ate broadens out into ripe apple and earthiness but wet pebble, citrus foliage and soy. The palate of notes. The palate strengthens that creamy pear feel stays dry and light. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. this wine then conveys zesty green but ripe citrus, and adds an earthy element of pithiness. The finish abv: 12.5% Price: $24 alongside a salty, seaweed savoriness. The body is is dry and still creamy. Riahi Selections. —A.K. light, translucent and bone dry. It’s a wine for lovers abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Domaine Roland Schmitt 2018 Pinot Blanc of nuance. Beaune Imports. —A.K. 87 (Alsace). An unusual whiff of tropicality abv: 13.2% Price: $16 Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2017 Tulipe Pinot hovers on the nose, which is dominated by pear 88 Blanc (Alsace). A shy nose conveys a hint of fruit. The palate of this wine comes in with ease and Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux E Sylvaner lemon and pear freshness. The palate of this wine generosity but loosely defined fruit. The finish is dry 93 (Alsace). Subtle cream and a lifted hint of follows suit with gentle pear presented with bright- and fresh. Beaune Imports. —A.K. chamomile show on the shy nose of this wine. The abv: 13.6% Price: $17 palate adds hazelnut to the rounded, ripe and gen- erous body. All is countered by concentrated lemon

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 freshness. This will benefit from more bottle age reveals a core of zesty concentration. The finish is Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux Sylvaner and mellow into a sonorous, fresh wine. The finish dry, vivid and appetizing. Vigneron Imports. —A.K. 90 (Alsace). The subtle nose on this wine is bone dry. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $13 is reminiscent of straw and chalk but a little air abv: 13.5% Price: $27 reveals hints of hayflowers. The palate has the aro- Armand Hurst 2018 Vieilles Vignes Sylvaner matic savoriness of salty, ethereal, dried hayflower Bott Frères 2018 Tradition Sylvaner (Alsace). 91 (Alsace). A hint of Golden Delicious apple and lovely concentration. There is warmth but also 92 A hint of lemon zestiness blends with hints peel plays on the nose of this wine with brightness freshness, aromatic intensity and balance all the of sun-dried straw and white asparagus on the nose and purity. The palate shines with the same yellow way to the bone-dry finish. Kermit Lynch Wine of this wine. The palate comes in with lightness and apple ripeness and creates a little, perfect cosmos Merchant. —A.K. a creamy, concentrated mouthfeel. It’s a beautifully of fruit, freshness and intensity. It’s concentrated, abv: 13.5% Price: $24 textured wine of subtlety and finesse. The finish is fruity, dry and long. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. dry and moreish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Henry Fuchs 2018 Vieilles Vignes Sylvaner abv: 11.5% Price: $22 89 (Alsace). The shy nose on this wine offers a Domaine Ansen 2017 Lerchensand Sylvaner mere glimpse of hay. A bright seam of lemon fresh- Domaine Charles Frey 2018 Blettig Sylvaner 91 (Alsace). White pepper, dried chamomile, a ness shows on the mellow, almost earthy palate that 92 (Alsace). Notions of sun-warmed straw, lifted note of dried orange peel and chalky funk on unites elements of dried straw and wet earth. The dried corn husk and Mirabelle plum come together the nose all signal that this is an unusual wine. The wine is bone dry on the finish. Weygandt-Metzler. on a subtle nose. The palate of this wine adds ripe palate carries these incisive aromas to a bone-dry, —A.K. yellow-apple accents with mellow freshness and vivid body that reverberates with freshness. This abv: 13.5% Price: $19 more of that hay note. Lovely citrus freshness and skin-fermented Sylvaner expresses diverse aspects harmonious balance enhance this subtle, quiet but of this unsung grape. Bon Vivant Imports. —A.K. Boeckel 2018 Alsace Sylvaner (Alsace). The convincing wine. BNP Distributing. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $36 88 nose of this wine is shy but the palate does abv: 12.5% Price: $20 not hold back on lemony freshness. It also conveys Domaine Charles Baur 2017 Sylvaner (Alsace). generous yellow plum, baked apple and an earthy Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Héritage Syl- 91 A glint of ripe lemon and lifted hayflower tang, all enlivened by citrus. The finish is dry and 92 vaner (Alsace). Sunny hints of Mirabelle escapes from the glass despite the shy nose of this fresh. WineWise. Best Buy. —A.K. plum show through a fragrant prism of hay on the wine. The palate emphasizes the lemony freshness abv: 13% Price: $11 nose of this wine. The palate confirms these flavors and adds a pithy textural element that underlines with uncommon concentration and intensity. This the harmonious slenderness of the wine. The fin- Gustave Lorentz 2018 Réserve Sylvaner is a full-on, vivid and bone-dry wine with a lasting, ish is bone dry and elegant. Best Case Wines. —A.K. 88 (Alsace). Dried straw and dandelion blos- mouthwatering lemon finish. Grape Expectations abv: 13.5% Price: $17 som on the nose of this wine promise ripeness. On (CA). —A.K. the palate an earthy, pithy element lends a slight abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Domaine Loew 2018 Westhoffen Sylvaner but pleasant bitterness and tells of concentration. 91 (Alsace). The nose of this wine is shy but The finish is dry, fresh and vivid with lemon and Domaine Weinbach 2018 Sylvaner (Alsace). the palate reveals an almost grippy texture in which earthiness. Quintessential Wines. —A.K. 92 Wet earth, straw and white asparagus make lemon, white asparagus, chalk and white citrus pith abv: 13% Price: $25 for a subtle nose on this wine. The palate ampli- shimmer. The mouthfeel is smooth and the body fies them and adds gentle apple fruit to these tex- is sinuous, with a mouthwatering, dry finish. Bon Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Tradition Sylva- tural, earthy but intriguing notes. A body-dry fin- Vivant Merchants. —A.K. 87 ner (Alsace). Notes of yeast and straw on the ish shines with lemony freshness. Vineyard Brands. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 nose of this wine lend an earthy aspect. The palate —A.K. comes in with lightness and ease, amplifying earthy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Kirrenbourg SAS 2017 Roche Granitique Syl- notes of dried straw. The finish is clean and fresh, 91 vaner (Alsace). Hints of fresh hay, salty yeast with a lemony overtone. Kinson Wholesale. —A.K. Frey-Sohler 2018 Sylvaner (Alsace). Hints of and a hint of lemon play subtly on the nose of this abv: 12.5% Price: $13 92 baked apple and sun-warmed hay define the wine. The palate juxtaposes this yeasty, earthy rich- subtle nose on this wine. The palate continues that ness with vivid lemon freshness for enlivening con- André Kientzler 2018 Sylvaner (Alsace). mellow apple theme but adds bright freshness plus trast. The finish is dry and earthy. Golden Vines. 86 The nose of this wine conveys only a slight overtones of hayflower and dried herb lift. The fin- —A.K. yeasty note. The palate adds citrus and rounded, ish is long, dry and textured. Kindred Vines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 phenolic earthiness to the light palate. The finish is abv: 12% Price: $15 dry and light. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. Boeckel 2018 Midelberg Sylvaner (Alsace). abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Jean-Louis & Fabienne Mann 2017 Mouton 90 Just a few glimpses of hayflower and citrus 92 Bleu Sylvaner (Alsace). Creamy notions of show on the nose of this wine. The bone-dry palate gentle Mirabelle and sun-warmed straw are appe- exhibits its slenderness with a fine line of textures MUSCAT tizing on the nose of this wine. The palate adds and pleasantly bitter pith, allowing stone, hay, straw chalky texture to the light palate and presents a har- and citrus to shimmer gently. WineWise. —A.K. Domaine Fernand Engel 2017 Vendanges monious, fresh balance on the concentrated body. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 92 Tardives Muscat (Alsace). Apricot compote There is some warmth on the bone-dry finish. F & R notes on the nose of this wine have an overtone of Wine Imports. —A.K. Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 Rosenberg blossom honey and hint of rose petal. The palate abv: 14% Price: $19 90 Sylvaner (Alsace). Touches of wet pebble offers rich, concentrated sweetness, with the tell- and sun-warmed straw appear on the subtle nose tale honey notes of this late-harvest style. All this Allimant-Laugner 2018 Sylvaner (Alsace). of this wine. The palate brightens everything with is countered by equally concentrated freshness to 91 The subtle nose on this wine tells of hay and lemon freshness that adds to the pithy texture. The create a harmonious balance. This wine will sing dried hayflowers. The palate presents a lightness of finish is mouthwatering and bone dry. Petit Pois. with pungent cheese or a stone-fruit-based dessert. touch and more citrus-edged hayflower notes but —A.K. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 11.5% Price: $52

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BUYINGGUIDE

Domaine Loew 2018 Les Marnes Vertes Mus- scented and slender. Concentration shows at the suckle play on the nose of this wine. The palate adds 92 cat (Alsace). A lovely nose on this wine core, yet fragrant lightness creates the most lasting rounded peach as well as earthiness. The finish is combines wet, freshly turned earth, subtle orange expression. The finish is dry, elegant and lemony. dry and fresh. Kinson Wholesale. —A.K. peel and a high tone of bright lemon. The palate Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 comes in with beautiful definition and zesty tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 gerine peel, while the slender, cncentrated palate is also airy and lifted. It offers a convincing combina- Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux Muscat AUXERROIS tion of freshness, earthiness and aroma. Bon Vivant 90 Ottonel (Alsace). Subtle hints of mandarin Merchants. —A.K. peel have a floral overtone on the nose of this wine. Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 La Fontaine aux abv: 12.5% Price: $30 The palate offers rich creaminess that counters 92 Enfants Pinot Auxerrois (Alsace). Fresh the phenolic, pithy grip. This is a smooth, dry and notes of ripe, yellow apple dominate the nose of Domaine Charles Baur 2017 Muscat (Alsace). almost rich wine with subtle aroma. Kermit Lynch this wine, flanked by some yeasty funk. The palate 91 Vivid, tingling notes of orange zest and hon- Wine Merchant. —A.K. presents zesty freshness buffered by that mellow eysuckle hit the pleasure nerves immediately. The abv: 13.5% Price: $29 apple ripeness to present harmony. Concentrated slender, expressive and bone-dry palate of this wine freshness is the chief feature. The finish gives hints trembles with fragrance and freshness. It is intense Armand Hurst 2018 Vieilles Vignes Muscat of chalk and tapers to purity. Drink now–2030. AP and aromatic. Best Case Wines. —A.K. 89 Ottonel (Alsace). Creaminess prevails on Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $23 the nose of this aromatic wine, as though peach and abv: 13% Price: $40 lemon yogurt had an overtone of honeysuckle. That Allimant-Laugner 2018 Muscat (Alsace). creamy impression turns into a mellow earthiness Jean-Baptiste Adam 2018 Vieilles Vignes 90 Gentle honeysuckle and jasmine notes play on the rounded, smooth palate. The finish is dry and 90 Auxerrois (Alsace). Earthy zestiness on subtly on the nose of this wine, supported by a hint fresh. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. the nose of this wine promises concentration. The of orange peel. The palate is full of freshness and abv: 13% Price: $18 palate delivers, with lemon-edged pear and a tex- verve, with a phenolic, grippy element that makes ture reminiscent of citrus pith. The body is light this wine zesty and mouthwatering before a dry fin- Domaine G. Metz 2018 Muscat (Alsace). The but energetic, with a dry finish. The Sorting Table. ish. Vigneron Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. 89 shy nose on this wine merely reveals slight —A.K. abv: NA Price: $15 hints of mandarin peel. Next the palate reveals more abv: 13% Price: $25 citrus aromatics, gentle zesty freshness and a flo- Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 Muscat ral overtone. The finish is fresh, appetizing and dry. Kuentz-Bas 2018 Pinot Auxerrois (Alsace). 90 Ottonel (Alsace). Gentle honeysuckle and Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. 90 A gentle but appetizing note of red apple peach notes on the nose of this wine have an edge abv: 13% Price: $22 plays on the nose and then brightens the light, of grapefruit zest. On the light body the bright- fruity and easy body of this slender white. The wine ness takes over and aromatics play gently on this Domaine Jean Sipp 2018 Réserve Muscat is fresh and vivid with a dry finish. Kermit Lynch summery, scented wine. The finish is bone dry and 89 (Alsace). Gentle orange-peel notes rise Wine Merchant. —A.K. appetizing. Petit Pois. —A.K. from the glass. The palate of this wine expands into abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $25 earthy ripeness. A lovely, grippy phenolic edge and mouthwatering zestiness lead to a refreshing and Kuentz-Bas 2018 Trois Châteaux Auxerrois Domaine Charles Frey 2018 Fruité Croquant dry finish. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K. 90 (Alsace). A hint of wet earth and white 90 Muscat (Alsace). Earth, honeysuckle and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA asparagus on the nose attains creamy freshness on mandarin peel make for an appealing nose on this the slender body of this wine. The palate is fresh, wine. The palate showcases citrus zestiness along- Domaine Schoffit 2018 Tradition Muscat dry and vivid. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. side lively freshness, pithy grip and more floral 89 (Alsace). Grapefruit peel and honeysuckle abv: 13.5% Price: $24 notes. The finish is appetizing and wonderfully dry. notes on the nose of this wine come with an alluring BNP Distributing. —A.K. creaminess. The palate expands and disperses these Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Kritt Pinot Auxer- abv: 12% Price: $25 notions, always leading back to this creamy, zesty 90 rois (Alsace). A hint of yeasty funk sits on body with its phenolic grip. It finishes dry and fresh. the bright apple nose of this wine. It also appears Frey-Sohler 2018 Réserve Muscat (Alsace). Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. on the concentrated, apple-fruited and earthy pal- 90 Honeysuckle and mandarin-peel notes abv: 12.5% Price: $26 ate that has a spicy, yeasty and saline edge. The fin- dominate the aromatic nose on this wine. The pal- ish is dry, apple-scented, salty and fresh. AP Wine ate is taut, bright, slender and aromatic, tingling Bott Frères 2018 Tradition Muscat (Alsace). Imports. —A.K. with citrus zest and freshness to the dry, appetizing 88 Summer blossom and mandarin peel on abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and aromatic finish. Kindred Vines. —A.K. the nose of this wine convey mellow creaminess. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 The palate offers freshness and a rounded, medium Armand Hurst 2018 Lieu-dit Rotenberg Aux- body. Citrus notes tingle in the background all the 89 errois (Alsace). Hints of wet soil and russet- Hugel 2018 Classic Muscat (Alsace). Notes way to the dry finish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. pear skin make for an earthy nose on this wine. On 90 of orange and mandarin zest accompany abv: 12.5% Price: $24 the textured palate, pear juiciness comes to the fore, honeysuckle on the nose of this wine. The palate alongside a touch of lemon brightness. The finish is holds zesty lemon freshness and displays light- Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2018 Muscat pithy, dry and long. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. footed sinuousness. The finish is invigorating, dry 87 (Alsace). A subtle hint of orange peel plays abv: 13% Price: $20 and fresh, with lemony length. Frederick Wildman on the nose of this wine. The palate comes in with & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. freshness, even zestiness that has a phenolic grip, Domaine Schoffit 2018 Vieilles Vignes Pinot abv: 12.5% Price: $28 while floral overtones add charm. The finish is dry. 89 Auxerrois (Alsace). Subtle notes of Mira- Matinicus Wines, LLC. —A.K. belle plum and apple on the nose of this wine turn Kuentz-Bas 2018 Muscat (Alsace). Subtle abv: 12.5% Price: $27 into an equally delicate palate of lightness, fresh- 90 tangerine and honeysuckle notes on the ness and ease. The wine offers juiciness, freshness nose of this wine suggest gentle but pure aromat- Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Tradition Muscat and harmonious balance. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. ics. The palate comes in with ease and lightness, 87 (Alsace). Hints of grapefruit zest and honey- abv: 13% Price: $21

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Henry Fuchs 2018 Pinot Auxerrois (Alsace). Domaine Marcel Deiss 2017 Langenberg lends texture. This wine is intense and still a little 89 The nose of this wine offers slightly lemony 94 (Alsace). Subtle but pure notes of man- young. Drink 2023–2030. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. freshness. The palate has earthiness and pithiness darin play on the apple-scented nose of this wine abv: 13% Price: $40 brightened by lemon. A little warmth shows on the alongside floral notions. The rounded palate shows dry, concentrated finish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. an immense juiciness and compact, concentrated Domaine Marcel Deiss 2016 Berckem abv: 13.5% Price: $17 fluidity that goes down like oil. It has a firm, stony 92 (Alsace). The nose of this inviting wine backdrop and quite a bit of structure that nonethe- offers a lick of fir honey, whiffs of damask rose and Hugel 2018 Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Auxer- less lets the fruit take center stage. The finish is whirls of peach. Off dry, textured and generous, the 89 rois (Alsace). A gentle notion of Mirabelle dry, fresh and lasting. Becky Wasserman Selections. wine stays on the right side of freshness but show- on the nose leads to equally subtle fruit on the fresh —A.K. ers you with generous ripeness. A lovely texture palate. The body is light, bright but rounded, finish- abv: 13% Price: $42 sets a counterpoint. Becky Wasserman Selections. ing dry with a pure note of ripe lemon. Frederick —A.K. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2015 Burg (Alsace). abv: 14% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 94 Ripe pear, rye bread and chalk take turns on the intriguing nose of this wine. The rounded palate Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Pinot Boir Blanc offers generous and mellow notions of baked apple 92 (Alsace). Salty yeast and fresh red-apple WHITE BLENDS with hints of fresh lemon zest and heady Kirsch. peel make for a nose that is both savory and fruity. There is heat and power here, but also depth and The palate of this wine adds bright lemon freshness Domaine Marcel Deiss 2016 Engelgarten energy. This wine shines with freshness despite the to this beautifully textured wine that still shimmers 95 (Alsace). A hint of smoke envelops a creamy, honeyed, baked fruit richness at its core. The finish with yeasty funk. It has intensity and personality mellow nose that speaks of earth, yeast and pear. is off dry and long. Drink now–2040. Becky Wasser- but above all pervasive, full-flavored freshness. AP The palate of this wine turns away from fruit and man Selections. —A.K. Wine Imports. —A.K. onto texture, presenting a buffered but pithy earthi- abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $25 ness. Highlights of citrus peel frame everything with precision, deepening that earthy impression. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2015 Rotenberg Domaine Ansen 2017 Sal Weingarten The finish is just about dry but superclean and inci- 94 (Alsace). Citrus richness emanates from 90 (Alsace). Something spicy, akin to russet- sive with its lemon straightness. Drink now–2040. the nose of this wine that holds ripe, almost hon- pear peel and grapefruit, plays on the nose of this Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. eyed, pear as a base. On the palate, concentrated, wine. The palate shows fresh but concentrated pear abv: 13% Price: $42 chalky and honeyed richness is rounded, textured, flavors and has real, dry impact on the finish. Bon off dry and fluid. The wine has citric drive at its core Vivant Imports. —A.K. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2015 Grasberg and a certain coolness, despite the honeyed, full- abv: 13% Price: $39 95 (Alsace). Smoke, earth, stone and citrus- fruited richness, creating a lovely contrast. Texture lifted notions of Mirabelle plum rise from the glass and structure are gilded by fruit. Drink now–2040. Domaine Marcel Deiss 2017 Alsace (Alsace). with uncommon force. The vivid palate of this wine Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. 90 A heady whiff of rose petal hits the nose plunges into ripe citric depths, suggests profound abv: 13.5% Price: $46 before creamy notions of Mirabelle and pear take fruit and freshness. Citrus lends precision within over. They also dominate the palate of this wine that generosity. This wine is creamy and generous, Domaine Marcel Deiss 2015 Schoffweg with mellow, creamy fruitiness that gains structure off dry but driven. Citrus and Mirabelle aromas on 94 (Alsace). With rich notions of cream, baked from a pleasantly bitter texture and freshness. That the finish seal this deliciousness. Drink now–2040. apple and apple crumble, the nose of this wine con- floral notion resurfaces on the aromatic, dry and Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. veys mellow richness. Smoothness also character- fresh finish. Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $50 izes the rounded, generous palate where the creami- abv: 14% Price: $21 ness takes on an even richer mouthfeel. Baked pear, Domaine Marcel Deiss 2015 Gruenspiel a hint of banana and dried lemon peel lend fruity Frey-Sohler 2018 Rittersberg (Alsace). Ripe 95 (Alsace). A touch of honey clings to baked- notions and freshness to this richly textured wine 90 pear aromas and subtle floral hints play on pear notes on the nose of this wine, promising rich- that reveals wet chalk, beeswax and yeasty savor. the slightly aromatic nose of this wine. The dry pal- ness. The palate is generous and mellow with ripe This huge wine will evolve. Drink now–2040. Becky ate comes in with zesty, ripe mandarin fruit and a pear but also pervaded by freshness. It has a hint Wasserman Selections. —A.K. rich texture. It’s a refreshing, rounded and fruity of dark berry and phenolic richness that veers into abv: 14% Price: $50 wine with a dry finish. Kindred Vines. —A.K. oiliness, but a vein of freshness keeps this on the abv: 13% Price: $23 right side of ripeness. This wine is about power, Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Stierkopf (Alsace). subtle aromas and full-on texture. The finish is 94 Earth and russet-pear peel on the nose of Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 7 Grains dry and long. Drink now–2040. Becky Wasserman this wine have a lemony edge. A flinty overtone car- 89 (Alsace). A floral topnote of honeysuckle Selections. —A.K. ries over onto the fresh palate where mellow apple shines on the nose of this wine alongside orange abv: 14% Price: $50 and bright lemon flavors are amplified on the tex- peel. The palate is delicate, aromatic and dry, while tured, expansive palate. This wine is smooth in fla- the finish is clean and refreshing. Petit Pois. —A.K. Cave de Ribeauvillé 2015 Clos du Zahnacker vor but taut in structure and rather compelling. The abv: 12.5% Price: $21 94 (Alsace). Chalk, chamomile tincture and finish is dry and vivid. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. dried lemon peel have immense lift on the nose of abv: 13% Price: $NA Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Maru (Alsace). Bright this wine. They also pervade the bright, balm-like 89 notes of freshly cut, ripe pear on the nose but concentrated palate with their aromatic inten- Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Clos du Val d’Éléon come with hints of creaminess and citrus. The pal- sity. This wine is fluid and layered, showing signs 93 (Alsace). A smoky, earthy nose on this wine ate of this wine is bright, fruity and comes with of evolution that is set to continue for many years. initially masks the fruit, which becomes apparent a dry, refreshing and clean finish. Multiple U.S. Gentle sweetness balances the bracing freshness on the smooth, taut, fresh and concentrated palate. importers. Best Buy. —A.K. and makes this a real experience. The finish is off It offers superripe pear and lemon with piercing abv: 12.5% Price: $14 dry but very balanced and long. Drink until 2040. freshness but also a note of bitter citrus pith that Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Hugel 2018 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). Slight abv: 13% Price: $40 89 notes of ripe yellow pear appear shyly on

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BUYINGGUIDE the nose of this wine. The palate comes in with and apple notes, finishing off dry and balanced. DHI Ruhlmann 2016 Me Revoilà freshness supported by very slight spritz. Lemony Selections. —A.K. 91 (Alsace). Hints of wet straw on the nose of brightness dominates the dry finish of this slender abv: 12.5% Price: $15 this wine also have a hint of chalk. On the palate wine. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. these notions morph into mellow citrus and attain abv: 12.5% Price: $15 André Kientzler NV Edelzwicker (Alsace). chalky, concentrated depth, contrasting with the 86 Only a faint hint of pear fruit appears on the lightness and slenderness of the body. A yeasty, Pierre Sparr 2018 One (Alsace). An exotic nose. of this wine. The palate stays similarly neutral textural element and a vein of freshness pulls this 89 nose lends notes of sandalwood, rosewater but is fresh, clean, bright, light and dry. AP Wine wine above the ordinary. The finish is dry and fresh. and spice. The palate of this wine stays light, trans- Imports. —A.K. Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. lucent and bright, shimmering with freshness and abv: 12.5% Price: $12/1 L abv: 12.5% Price: $18 aromatics on the easy, light body. It finishes fresh and dry. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2018 Mystère abv: 12% Price: $17 86 (Alsace). All the neutral nose of this wine ROSÉS promises is freshness. The palate offers ripe, mellow Allimant-Laugner 2018 Gentil (Alsace). pear boosted by slight sweetness. It finishes off dry Domaine Loew 2018 Les Premières Ven- 88 Gentle floral and spicy notes hover attrac- and rounded. Matinicus Wines, LLC. —A.K. 92 danges de Marguerite Rosé (Alsace). Either tively on the nose of this light-bodied wine. The abv: 12.5% Price: $30 a dark rose or a light red in colour, this wine has palate is mild but fresh and very slender, while lovely overtones of wild strawberry and red cherry. the finish is dry and slightly aromatic. Vigneron Domaine G. Metz 2018 Cuvée Harmony The palate brims with vivid red fruit. Think red cur- Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. 86 (Alsace). A shy nose on this wine leads rant and tart red cherry. The wine is vivid, concen- abv: 13% Price: $13 onto a slender, bright and easy palate where pear trated, bone dry and refreshing. It’s a rosé made for and lemon notes are joined by pithy earthiness. The the table. Bon Vivant Merchants. —A.K. Dopff & Irion 2018 Crustacés (Alsace). finish is fresh and dry. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 88 Sunny notes of ripe Golden Delicious apple abv: 12.5% Price: $17 are appetizing on the nose of this wine. A little Armand Hurst 2018 Rosé d’Alsace (Alsace). spritz on the palate adds to the sense of easy, fruity Domaine Michel Fonne 2018 Grains de Génie 89 Hints of red apple and fresh citrus show on freshness on this very light, dry and refreshing 86 (Alsace). Funky yeast still plays on the nose the nose of this wine. The palate is bright, fresh and wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —A.K. of this wine while the palate broadens to bruised dry, given shape and structure by slight freshness abv: 11.5% Price: $12 apple and pear peel, adding some bitterness. The and a pithy, phneolic edge. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. finish is dry and fresh. Kinson Wholesale. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Henri Schoenheitz 2018 Alsace Sec (Alsace). abv: 12% Price: $12 88 Gentle pear and honeysuckle notes have Frey-Sohler 2018 Brise d’Eté Rosé (Alsace). a hint of citrus on the nose of this wine. It’s light, 89 Summer berry compote and mellow, creamy slightly aromatic, slender and dry, with a feel OTHER WHITE WINES apple notes combine on the nose of this wine. The of spring and ease about it. The finish is dry and palate reprises these notes and adds a smidgeon of refreshing. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Jean Biecher & Fils 2018 Sonnenglanz Grand phenolic grip. It’s a mellow, rounded but fresh and abv: 13% Price: $20 93 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Ripe peach dry wine. Kindred Vines. —A.K. flesh, sun-kissed and mellow, has an overtone of abv: 13% Price: $19 Kuentz-Bas 2018 Alsace (Alsace). An rose petal on the nose of this wine. The rich pal- 88 overtone of honeysuckle clings to a hint ate comes in with rounded sweetness that gilds the Domaine Charles Baur 2018 Rosé (Alsace). of earthiness on the subtle nose of this wine. The fruit with mandarin juiciness. Phenolic bitterness 88 Strawberry compote figures heavily on the palate presents vivid freshness, even zestiness. rather than freshness counterpoints this abun- fruity nose of this wine. The palate continues this The body is light, easy, dry and very bright. Kermit dance. This wine is full-on but balanced and will red-berry theme but with mellow, rounded, ripe Lynch Wine Merchant. Best Buy. —A.K. take some bottle age before revealing its full charm. fruit. The finish is dry. Best Case Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Drink 2025–2035. Votto Vines Importing. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $25 La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Grès Rosé (Alsace). A 88 Blue Tie (Alsace). Honeysuckle, mango and Julien Schaal 2018 Altenberg de Bergheim 88 neutral nose on this wine opens into a slen- passion fruit on the nose of this wine spell fruit and 93 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Peach der, taut and refreshing palate that shows glimpses exoticism. The fruitiness is boosted on the light, and honeysuckle are subtle on the nose of this wine, of strawberry compote. The body is light and dry, easy and fresh body by some residual sweetness on harmonizing with Valencia orange notes. The palate with a fresh, bright finish. Multiple U.S. importers. the balanced, off-dry finish. DHI Selections. —A.K. is bright and fresh, boosted by gentle sweetness that —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 counters the richness, concentration and inherent abv: 12.5% Price: $28 warmth alongside a pleasantly bitter phenolic edge. La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 Full of flavor, this is a masterful display of harmony. Gustave Lorentz 2018 Le Rosé (Alsace). The 87 Black Tie (Alsace). Subtle pear notes are all Drink 2023–2035. Distinctive Domaines. —A.K. 87 shy nose on this wine is not willing to give that can be made out on the shy nose of this wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 much away. Next the palate comes in with a mel- The palate adds zesty lemon to the light, balanced, low, rounded body tempered by gentle freshness. easy-drinking body. The finish is clean, dry and Domaine Schoffit 2018 Vieilles Vignes Chasse- The finish is clean, bright and, with a hint of citrus, fresh. DHI Selections. —A.K. 91 las (Alsace). Notions of straw, corn husk and rather refreshing. Quintessential Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 earth show on the nose of this wine. These turn into abv: 12.5% Price: $22 pithy markers of texture on the dry, concentrated La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 palate that has bitter citrus pithiness, but the desn- Cave de Ribeauvillé 2018 Allegro Collection 87 White Tie (Alsace). The nose on this wine is sity destines this wine for the table. The finish is 86 Rosé (Alsace). A neutral nose leads onto a shy and almost neutral and the palate stays simil- dry and clean. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. dry palate where phenolics, with pithy hints of bit- iarly subdued. The clean body shows friendly pear abv: 13% Price: $22 terness, set the scene. This wine is warm, rounded

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 and dry, with a flicker of citrus freshness on the fin- measure. This wine expresses the juiciness of the Domaine Marcel Deiss 2018 Saint Hippolyte ish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. vintage but presents an effortless, energetic flow, 92 Rouge Pinot Noir (Alsace). Cherry and berry abv: 14.5% Price: $13 with red-fruited freshness and verve. On the finish notes on the nose of this wine are almost volup- touches of smoke and cocoa lends extra roundness. tuous, conveying ripeness and generosity. The pal- Gargouille Collection. —A.K. ate adds vivid freshness and warmth, bringing those PINOT NOIR abv: 13% Price: $75 cherry notes almost into overdrive. It’s an enliven- ing Pinot of uncommon life force. The wine may be Domaine Marcel Deiss 2016 Burlenberg Pinot Boeckel 2017 Les Terres Rouges Pinot Noir a little rustic in style, but it compensates with sheer 94 Noir (Alsace). Earth, smoke and cherry set a 93 (Alsace). Black cherry is subtle but unmis- aliveness. Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. visceral tone on the nose of this wine. The palate is takeable on the nose of this wine. The palate melds abv: 13.5% Price: $39 concentrated, inky almost, but alive with freshness. pliable, smooth tannins with ample cherry fruit and Grippy tannins are fine but still astringent while a lovely freshness. The result is a mellow, fruit-driven Henry Fuchs 2018 Rouge Comme Renard deep well of aromatic, dark cherry slumbers at the and concentrated Pinot of harmonious balance and 92 Pinot Noir (Alsace). An aromatic whiff of core. It all falls into a harmonious, balanced whole generosity. The finish lingers with cherry aromas. elderberry immediately makes a heady impact and that intriguing, enticing and one of Alsace’s most WineWise. —A.K. signals pleasure. The palate of this wine adds bright unusual wines. Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $93 notions of red cherry and a distinct creaminess that abv: 13.5% Price: $NA frames the inherent energy and elegance. This sinu- Kirrenbourg SAS 2017 Premier Pinot Noir ous, aromatic Pinot finds it easy to get under your Domaine Weinbach 2017 Altenbourg Pinot 93 (Alsace). Smoky, earthy notes of ripe black skin. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. 94 Noir (Alsace). A touch of smoke accompa- cherry play on the nose of this wine. The palate abv: 13.5% Price: $35 nies pure notes of ripe red cherry on the nose of this brings freshness that surrounds that black-cherry wine. Smokiness persists on the slender palate and ripeness with almost fizzing energy. This is concen- Kirrenbourg SAS 2017 Cuvée Mathieu Pinot wraps the bright fruit in its dark folds. An energetic trated and aromatic, with overtones of cocoa and 92 Noir (Alsace). A note of reductive funk dis- core of ripe berry and cherry at the core projects Amarena cherry. The finish is elegant, lasting and sipates quickly and leaves the nose fragrant with generosity and ripeness. The wine has a chalky, fine totally appetizing. Vintage Wine Marketing. —A.K. smoke and cherry. The palate of this wine comes in texture and velvety tannin. Vineyard Brands. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $71 with tart, bright, taut and elegant cherry freshness. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 Slender but concentrated, the body is sinuous with Kirrenbourg SAS 2017 Terroir B Pinot Noir silky tannin and an undercurrent of quiet energy. Domaine Weinbach 2017 S Pinot Noir 93 (Alsace). The shy nose of this wine gives It’s an elegant Pinot with real verve. Vintage Wine 94 (Alsace). A lifted, almost floral, red-fruited away little, while the palate comes in tenderly, as Marketing. —A.K. freshness is subtle on the nose of this wine. The pal- though on tiptoe. There is concentration here, but abv: 14% Price: $45 ate is exquisitely slender, taut and full of redcurrant also ample freshness expressed by the notion of brightness that takes on a mellower cherry ripeness tart, red cherry. Purity of fruit and subtlety are the Boeckel 2017 Oberpfoeller Pinot Noir (Alsace). with air. Tannins are silky on this elegant, concen- hallmarks of this elegant Pinot. Vintage Wine Mar- 91 Reductive funk still clouds the nose of this trated wine that shows a light and knowing hand keting. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. wine before red and black cherry notes appear. The when it comes to oak. It’s effortlessly elegant and abv: 13.5% Price: $59 palate has concentration and juiciness, combining profound. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. ripeness and freshness that are underlined by ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $75 Boeckel 2017 K Pinot Noir (Alsace). A touch but shapely tannins. The fruit is exuberant while 92 of reduction still hovers on the nose of this the finish is dry and fresh. WineWise. —A.K. Hugel 2013 Grossi Laüe Pinot Noir (Alsace). wine but the underlying aromatics of ripe, fragrant abv: 14% Price: $30 94 Lovely lift and notions of autumnal oak cherry cannot be suppressed. This is fresh, vibrant leaf amid ripe cherry suggest some evolution on and generous on the palate, brimming with the Domaine Loew 2018 Westhoffen Pinot Noir the subtle, appetizing nose of this wine. The palate crunch of fresh, ripe black cherry. Energy, ripeness 91 (Alsace). Lifted, luminous aromas of ripe but shows vivid freshness paired with mellowing flavors and freshness meet at the perfect juncture. Wine- tart red cherries rise from the glass. The palate of and tannins that are superfine, retreating but still Wise. —A.K. this wine brims with vigor, presenting ripe fruit with residual grip. The final impression is one of abv: 13% Price: $40 through a prism of freshness. This wine is slender, harmony, effortless freshness and utter Pinot-ness. dry, refreshing and totally appetizing. Bon Vivant Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2017 Vieilles Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $80 92 Vignes Pinot Noir (Alsace). A subtle charge abv: 13% Price: $31 of Amarena cherry unfolds before notes of ripe, René Muré 2018 V Pinot Noir (Alsace). The fresh red cherry and stone take over on the aromatic Gustave Lorentz 2015 La Limite Pinot Noir 94 cherry nose of this wine is made even more nose of this wine. The sinuous palate is framed by 91 (Alsace). Flinty notions of reduction mingle appetizing and aromatic by the rare presence of freshness, held within a fine tannic structure that with vanilla on the nose of this wine, creating an pure raspberry notes. Purity indeed is the watch- allows both the purity of cherry fruit and concen- intriguing opening. The palate channels freshness word on the sinuous, slender but concentrated pal- tration to shine in this elegant Pinot. Petit Pois. and concentration, still tinged with the reduc- ate with its incisive freshness and insistent aromat- —A.K. tive notes, and presents a concentrated body with ics. The power of this elegant and seductive wine abv: 14.5% Price: $56 smooth tannins. This wine will definitely benefit lies entirely in its understatement. Gargouille Col- from being decanted. The finish is dry, fresh and lection. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Domaine G. Metz 2017 Pierric Pinot Noir appetizing. Quintessential Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $60 92 (Alsace). Hints of Kirsch, smoke, cinnamon abv: 13.5% Price: $100 and conifer show on the nose of this subtly oaked René Muré 2018 Clos Saint Landelin Pinot Pinot. Fine tannins on the palate have both silkiness René Muré 2018 Argiles Rouges Pinot Noir 94 Noir (Alsace). Only the merest hint of black and firmness, presenting a subtle grip. Vivid, lumi- 91 (Alsace). The tart, vivid brightness of red cherry breaks through on the shy nose of this wine. nous freshness at the core lets tart Morello-cherry cherry shines on the nose of this wine. The palate With more air, hints of iron oxide and salty savor notions shine. It’s an elegant, scented wine with shows concentration on a sinuous, slender body also appear. The palate comes in with juicy fresh- tons of freshness. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. that affords glimpses of iron oxide framed by fresh- ness that speaks of ripeness and finesse in equal abv: 13.5% Price: $29 ness and beautifully expressed, fine tannins. This

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BUYINGGUIDE wine has elegance, poise and a long finish. Gar- Domaine G. Metz 2018 Vieilles Vignes Pinot der and cherry-fruited, leading to a dry, vivid finish. gouille Collection. —A.K. 90 Noir (Alsace). The shy nose of this wine Saranty Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 suggests tart but ripe cherry. The palate presents abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fine, still slightly crunchy tannins, a fragrant edge Trimbach 2017 Réserve Cuve 7 Pinot Noir of conifer and lovely concentration. Sinuous and Cave de Ribeauvillé 2017 Kugelberg Pinot 91 (Alsace). A glint of wild raspberry appears slender, the body presents a classic, vivid and dry 89 Noir (Alsace). A hint of reduction still dims before tart, red-cherry notions take over on the style of Alsace Pinot Noir. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. the nose of this wine before hints of mocha come nose of this wine. The palate brims with freshness abv: 13.5% Price: $24 through. The fresh palate brims with fleshy, ripe and concentration of flavor, with a tender grip from red-cherry fruit, presenting a generous, medium faint, silky tannins. The finish is dry and appetizing. Emile Beyer 2017 Eguisheim Pinot Noir body that is balanced by freshness. This is juicy, Taub Family Selections. —A.K. 90 (Alsace). Aromatic red cherry has the mer- mellow and dry. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 est kiss of oak on the nose of this wine. The palate abv: 13.5% Price: $18 comes in with more ripe, red cherry, as concen- Armand Hurst 2018 Coeur de Dragon Pinot trated as it is fresh. There is a lovely balance here, Cave de Ribeauvillé 2016 Rodern Pinot Noir 90 Noir (Alsace). Slight smokiness on the nose vivid juiciness and a fresh, coniferous perfume. 89 (Alsace). Slight smokiness on the nose of this wine gives way to fresh, tart notes of red Michael Corso Selections. —A.K. of this wine envelops ripe cherry notes. Juicy and cherry. The palate presents cherry freshness, com- abv: 13% Price: $30 fluid, the palate is sinuous with ripe but fresh pact and pervaded by mouthwatering brightness. cherry. The medium body is silky and has mellow An edge of reduction still clings to the flavors and Henri Schoenheitz 2017 Herrenreben Pinot freshness. It’s an elegant, supple Pinot Noir with a the tannins have slight astringency, but that adds to 90 Noir (Alsace). A slightly reduced nose gives dry finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. the wine’s appeal. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. little away but the palate comes in with a wonderful abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $39 balance of ripe cherry, a generous but toned body, and fine but firm tannin. The wine has real sub- Cave de Turckheim 2018 Réserve Pinot Noir Boeckel 2018 Midelberg Pinot Noir (Alsace). stance but no heft. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. 89 (Alsace). Pure notes of ripe but fresh cher- 90 Primal, ripe cherry dominates the nose of abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ries set the tone on the nose of this wine. The palate this wine and speaks of both ripeness and freshness. keeps all of that freshness, making the most of these The palate joins in with the same juicy, expressive Kirrenbourg SAS 2018 Roche Granitique juicy, tart cherry notes. This fresh, slender, fruity ease. This is a fresh, fruit-driven Pinot with deli- 90 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Ripe and expressive wine will also work when chilled. Magnum Wines cious grip that will work even better when chilled. notes of Bing cherry are as vivid on the nose of this International. —A.K. WineWise. —A.K. wine as they are on the juicy, fresh but concen- abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 trated palate. This wine has energy and freshness on a medium, juicy and dry body. The wine will also Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2018 Réserve Domaine Ansen 2018 Steig Vieille Vigne work when chilled. Vintage Wine Marketing. —A.K. 89 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Vibrant notes of ripe, 90 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Red-cherry freshness abv: 13.5% Price: $32 fresh and crunchy black cherry on the nose are on the nose of this wine promises crunch and tart- most appetizing. The palate of this wine brims with ness on the palate. The light body brims with fresh Kuentz-Bas 2017 Trois Châteaux Pinot Noir freshness and fruity ease but is far from facile. It cherry and presents enlivening freshness and a 90 (Alsace). Hints of tart cherry on the nose offers expressive fruit, brightness and energy. Petit slight but welcome grip. It has depth and a bone- of this wine are suffused with touches of raspberry Pois. —A.K. dry finish. Bon Vivant Imports. —A.K. and a lovely edge of smoke. The palate comes in with abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: 14% Price: $49 freshness and brightness that underlines the fruit and adds gentle heat. This wine is juicy, dry and Domaine Charles Frey 2018 Harmonie Pinot Domaine Charles Frey 2016 Quintessence aromatic. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. 89 Noir (Alsace). Red cherry is an aromatic 90 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Vanilla and polished abv: 13% Price: $36 tease on the shy nose of this wine. The slender pal- mahogany frame the cherry core on the nose of this ate brims with tart, red fruit that’s full of lightness, wine. The slender palate is smooth, with mellow Ruhlmann 2016 Cuvée a L’Ancienne Élevé en freshness and ease. BNP Distributing. —A.K. vanilla tones that embrace those tart, bright cherry 90 Barrique Pinot Noir (Alsace). A slight headi- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 notes. BNP Distributing. —A.K. ness, as of polished old furniture, precedes cherry abv: 12.5% Price: $40 hints on the nose of this wine. The palate is fresh, Domaine Fernand Engel 2017 Cuvée Fernand sinuous and elegant, still sporting the gentle grip of 89 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Vivid notes of ripe, Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Cuvée Fer- tannin. All is made fragrant by an edge of conifer fleshy, black cherry on the nose of this wine signal 90 nand Pinot Noir (Alsace). Fragrant red and freshness. Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. generosity. The palate portrays the same fleshy, rich black cherry notes make for a very inviting nose abv: 12.5% Price: $27 fruit but frames it with freshness. The body is juicy, on this wine. The palate fleshes out the fruit with dry and bright. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. juicy ripeness countered with ample freshness.Aro- Allimant-Laugner 2018 Pinot Noir (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $38 matic cherry notions linger on the long finish. Grape 89 Notes of ripe, black and fresh cherry domi- Expectations (CA). —A.K. nate the nose of this wine. The palate brings an edge Domaine Jean Sipp 2016 Rouge Elevé en abv: 14% Price: $38 of peppery spice amid the ripe but fresh fruit. This 89 Barrique Pinot Noir (Alsace). With its rich, wine is crunchy, light and fresh, with conifer tangi- roasted aroma, the vanilla mellowness of oak is Domaine Fernand Engel 2018 Meyerhof ness on the dry finish. Vigneron Imports. —A.K. immediately apparent on the nose of this wine. The 90 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Dark cherry notes, abv: 13% Price: $16 palate then presents bright cherry enveloped by the almost with a tinge of earth and licorice, dominate vanilla, creating a smooth wine that finishes dry and the nose of this wine. The palate comes in with juicy Bestheim 2017 Exception Pinot Noir long. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K. slenderness but ample warmth. Brightness and 89 (Alsace). A hint of cherry candy plays on abv: 13% Price: $NA fruit are present in equal measure and make for a the smoky nose of this wine. Candied flavor also refreshing but mellow wine. The finish is dry and shows on the palate. The body is supple, fresh, slen- Domaines Schlumberger 2017 Les Princes lasting. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. 89 Abbés Pinot Noir (Alsace). Slight reduction abv: 14.5% Price: $55 still plays about smoky cherry notes on the nose of

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 this wine. The palate shows the freshness of tart but Leon Beyer 2017 Pinot Noir (Alsace). The Domaine Sipp-Mack 2018 Vieilles Vignes ripe red cherry. It’s a refreshing, slender Pinot Noir. 89 freshness of tart but ripe red cherries is 88 Pinot Noir (Alsace). The nose of this wine Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.K. subtle but unmistakeable on the nose. Ripe fruit is shy but faint notes of black cherry escape. The abv: 13% Price: $26 also appears on the slender, fresh palate, making palate then presents rounded, full but fresh red and for a delicate, light Pinot that will also work when black cherry notes on a ripe but slender body. The Gustave Lorentz 2017 Evidence Pinot Noir chilled. Banville Wine Merchants. —A.K. finish is dry and juicy. Lanterna Distributors. —A.K. 89 (Alsace). The shy nose of this wine gives abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 just a glimpse of cherry. It is left to the palate to present the ripe but fresh fruit of the darker cherry René Muré 2018 Signature Pinot Noir Dopff Au Moulin 2018 Rouge des 2 Cerfs spectrum. The finish is dry and generous, with 89 (Alsace). Cherry freshness on the nose of 88 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Notions of fresh, juicy cherry juiciness. Quintessential Wines. —A.K. this wine has an appealing tinge of conifer. The red cherry and some conifer make for an invigorat- abv: 13% Price: $40 slender palate shows tender grip and vivid fresh- ing nose on this wine. The palate adds darker, riper ness. Cherry fruit remains expressive until the fin- cherry and a hint of cinnamon. Slender, fresh and Henri Schoenheitz 2018 Pinot Noir (Alsace). ish. Gargouille Collection. —A.K. crunchy, the body has the merest hint of licorice on 89 Crunchy, easy Morello cherry freshness abv: 13% Price: $25 the dry finish. This will also work chilled. Multiple on the nose of this wine turns into mellower, U.S. importers. —A.K. riper cherry fruit on the slender palate that shows Ruhlmann 2018 Cuvée Mosaique Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $18 slightly grippy tannins. Vivid fruit is countered 89 (Alsace). Reduction still clouds the nose of by ample freshness. This wine will also work well this easy, fruit-driven Pinot. The palate is slender Frey-Sohler 2017 Fleur de Granit Pinot Noir chilled. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. and bright, with an edge of aromatic conifer fresh- 88 (Alsace). Subtle but enticing notes of red abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ness. It’s an appealing old school Alsace Pinot with berry and cherry reach the nose. The palate of a dry finish. Cognac One, LLC. —A.K. this wine presents the fruit in its juicy, rounded Hugel 2017 Classic Pinot Noir (Alsace). Lifted abv: 13% Price: $19 ripeness. Freshness frames the fleshiness and the 89 notes of fresh red cherry stream from the medium body finishes dry. Kindred Vines. —A.K. glass, with more than a hint of cherry candy. The Trimbach 2018 Réserve Pinot Noir (Alsace). abv: 13% Price: $26 palate of this wine is slender and fresh, with bright, 89 The nose on this wine is still clouded by almost bracing cherry tartness. This easy and fruit- reduction. The palate, however, shows off cherry Jean-Baptiste Adam 2017 Les Natures Pinot driven Pinot Noir will also work well when chilled. fruit, juicy and bright, but also ripe and generous. 88 Noir (Alsace). A touch of reduction smudges Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. This slender, full and vivacious Pinot still needs to the purity of the fruit on the nose of this wine but abv: 12.5% Price: $25 knit together. Taub Family Selections. —A.K. the palate presents bright, tart but ripe red cherry. abv: 13% Price: $25 Freshness gives verve to the slender, taut palate that Jean-Baptiste Adam 2017 Elevé en Fût de also shows some tender tannins. This wine will also 89 Chêne Pinot Noir (Alsace). On the cherry Bott Frères 2018 Tradition Pinot Noir work chilled. The Sorting Table. —A.K. nose of this wine, smoky notes of mocha immedi- 88 (Alsace). A touch of reduction still plays abv: 12.5% Price: $30 ately signal oak. The palate counters the oaky gener- amid vivid, juicy cherry notes on the nose of this osity with freshness but mocha and chocolate notes wine. The palate offers exquisite lightness and Armand Hurst 2018 Baronne de Turckheim stay alongside cherry flavors. The body is fresh, freshness, with juicy notions of dark cherry. This 87 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Ripe, red cherry on the slender and dry. The Sorting Table. —A.K. style of Pinot can easily be treated like a rosé and nose of this wine is tinged with a touch of reduc- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 will benefit from being chilled. The finish is dry and tion. The juicy, cherry-fruited palate is light, dry fresh. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. and full of joyous energy. Chilling will also serve this Jean-Marc Bernhard 2018 Pinot Noir abv: 12.5% Price: $24 wine well. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. 89 (Alsace). Tart, crunchy cherry hints are abv: 14% Price: $28 appetizing on the nose of this wine. Juicy and bright, Cave du Roi Dagobert 2018 Découverte Pinot the palate brims with tart cherry and darker berry 88 Noir (Alsace). The nose of this wine hints at Frey-Sohler 2018 Réserve Pinot Noir (Alsace). fruit. The body is vivid, fresh and dry. This wine will spicy dark cherry fruit that continues to the light, 87 Hints of fleshy, ripe black cherry show on also work chilled. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. easy and bright palate. This slender, juicy, cherry- the nose of this wine. The palate contains this abv: 12.5% Price: $18 tart Pinot will also benefit from being chilled. Votto slightly diffuse generosity within juicy freshness. A Vines Importing. —A.K. picnic wine par excellence it will also work chilled. Kuentz-Bas 2018 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Subtle abv: 14% Price: $32 Kindred Vines. —A.K. 89 but promising reduction plays on the nose abv: 13% Price: $21 of this wine and, for now at least, obscures the fruit. Domaine Fernand Engel 2017 Tradition Pinot The palate comes in with vivid freshness on a slen- 88 Noir (Alsace). Vivid notions of cherry candy La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2018 der palate that showcases the redcurrant and tart make for an open, appetizing nose on this wine. The 87 Red Tie Pinot Noir (Alsace). Notes of crunchy, Morello hints of Pinot Noir. It’s a juicy, slender and palate follows suit with expressive notes of tart but tart red cherry play on the nose of this wine and appetizing red with lovely overtones of conifer. Ker- ripe cherry. Light and translucent, the body brims also show on the easy, light and dry palate. This mit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. with freshness. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K. wine brims with freshness and will also work well abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $28 when chilled. DHI Selections. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $15 La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2015 Domaine G. Metz 2018 Pinot Noir 89 la Griffe du Diable Pinot Noir (Alsace). Heady 88 (Alsace). Cherry candy and a touch of Marc Kreydenweiss 2018 Pinot Boir Rouge whiffs of vanilla and Kirsch immediately hit the smoke play on the nose of this wine while a hint of 87 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Gamy funk and full-on nose, suggesting both oak and ripe fruit. The pal- conifer lends freshness. That crispness is even more yeastiness dominate the nose of this wine. On the ate of this wine presents tart cherry notes, envelop- present on the slender, bright and tart palate. This palate, tart, bright cherry fizzes away on a slender, ing them in the vanilla and slightly mocha-scented fresh, vivid Pinot would also work when chilled. fresh body. This wine is all about red-fruited, funky embrace of oak. The body remains light, with silky Chemin Des Vins. —A.K. freshness. AP Wine Imports. —A.K. tannins and a dry finish. DHI Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Preiss-Zimmer 2018 Réserve Pinot Noir fruits. With plenty of aging potential, the wine’s Château Montgrand-Milon 2017 Pauillac. 87 (Alsace). Faint notes of black cherry on the tannins will soften into the fruit. Drink from 2023. 92 This structured wine comes from one of nose of this wine promise ripeness. The dry, fresh Grantham Distributing. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the properties owned by the Peyronie family. Dark palate is juicy with rounded, slightly diffuse fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 tannins and black-fruit flavors are still bright and Metrowine Distribution. —A.K. packed with acidity. A touch of smokiness from abv: 14% Price: $32 Château Le Boscq 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- wood aging adds to the complexity of this wine. 92 Estèphe). The latest vintage from this Drink from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Armand Hurst 2018 Rouge Vieilles Vignes chateau, owned in the 18th century by Irishman abv: 13.5% Price: $59 86 Pinot Noir (Alsace). A reductive, flinty cloud Thomas Barton and now by Dorthe, is dense, stri- still clings to the nose of this wine where animalis- ated with tannins as well as concentrated black tic notes lend gaminess. The palate is slender, vivid fruits. A sense of the freshness that comes with the MARGAUX and fresh with bright cherry, while the dry finish is vintage balances the structure. The wine will take also tinged with gaminess. Amphorium LLC. —A.K. some time to develop fully, so wait until 2023. Thié- Château Bellevue de Tayac 2017 Cru Bour- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 not USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 geois (Margaux). One of the estates belong- abv: 13% Price: $39 ing to the Fabre family, this property is in the north- Cave de Ribeauvillé 2018 Collection Pinot ernmost of the Margaux villages. This ripe wine is 86 Noir (Alsace). The shy nose of this wine Château Petit Bocq 2017 Cru Bourgeois elegant, structured with black-currant flavors and gives almost nothing away but the palate pres- 92 (Saint-Estèphe). With all the impressive has a good future. Drink from 2023. Deutsch Family ents ripe, fresh, red cherry with a hint of cocoa Saint-Estèphe tannins to the fore, this is a seriously Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. on a medium body. Slight tannins convey a hint of structured wine. It also has density and solid black abv: 13% Price: $30 smoked meat. The finish is dry and fresh. Multiple fruits that are ready to develop into a rich, full wine. U.S. importers. —A.K. Drink from 2023. Château Petit Bocq. —R.V. Château d’Arsac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Mar- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 92 gaux). Owner Philippe Raoux collects mod- ern sculpture that surprises along every vista of the Domaine Michel Fonne 2017 Tradition Pinot Château Tour Saint-Fort 2016 Cru Bourgeois chateau’s park. This vintage of his wine is structured 86 Noir (Alsace). A thickish cloud of reduction 92 (Saint-Estèphe). This wine comes from a and has a fine future. Ripe tannins will shortly open dims fleshy, ripe cherry notes on the nose of this revival of an old estate, rebuilt at the end of the last up to allow the rich black fruits to come through, wine. The palate frames the fleshy, not well-defined century. The wine benefits from the deep gravel of promising aging and adding to the complexity. Drink fruit in freshness. This wine is easy, clean, juicy and the vineyard, giving a mineral and black-currant from 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. dry. Lompian Wines. —A.K. fruit-driven character. It is balanced and dense with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $18 a dark structure that will mature. Drink from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château la Fortune 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Mar- Frédéric Mallo 2018 Pinot Noir (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 gaux). From the village of Soussans in the 86 Smoke and earth muddle ripe black-cherry northern part of the Margaux appellation, this wine notes on the nose of this wine. The palate counters Château Laffitte Carcasset 2017 Cru Bour- is firmly rooted in tannins that still dominate the this with juicy freshness that presents fleshy, ripe 91 geois (Saint-Estèphe). Properly structured as underlying berry fruits and acidity. The wine needs but fresh black cherry. Artisanal Cellars. —A.K. befits a wine from Saint-Estèphe, this also has great aging to allow those tannins to soften and permit abv: 12.5% Price: $NA black fruits, ripe and already pushing forward. The the fruit to breathe. Drink from 2023. Advantage blend, with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, is aged for 12 International. —R.V. months in wood, adding ripe spiciness to the wine. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 BORDEAUX Drink this wine that has good potential from 2023. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. Château Paveil de Luze 2017 Cru Bourgeois SAINT-ESTÈPHE abv: 13% Price: $30 90 (Margaux). The de Luze family has owned this historic estate since 1862. This latest vintage Château Le Crock 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon shows both the tan- 93 Estèphe). This wine is structured and dense, PAUILLAC nins and buoyant fruit of the vintage. Black-currant with dusty tannins as well as full-bodied black- flavors shine along with acidity. The tannins are plum flavors. Made by the winemaking team of Châ- Château Fonbadet 2017 Cru Bourgeois on their way to softening, but the wine will not be teau Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, the wine has 93 (Pauillac). The Peyronie family guards the ready until 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. good aging potential. Drink from 2023. Monsieur independence of this 50-acre vineyard among the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. classed growth estates. The wine it produces comes abv: 13% Price: $59 from a Pauillac blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon Château la Gorce 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Mar- with Merlot. It is a ripe wine, balanced and with 88 gaux). Aged in wood for a year, this wine Château Lilian Ladouys 2017 Cru Bourgeois some good aging ahead of it. Drink the wine from has a smooth texture that allows space for some 93 (Saint-Estèphe). Now under the same own- 2023. Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. dusty tannins as well as ripe blackberry fruits. ership as the revived Château Pedesclaux in Pauil- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Lightly smoky and structured, the wine has a bright lac, this property is hitting its true potential. This future. Drink from 2023. Bridge Imports. —R.V. latest release is textured while also having great Château La Fleur Peyrabon 2017 Cru Bour- abv: 13% Price: $22 fruits, rich tannins and considerable aging ability. 92 geois (Pauillac). A 17-acre portion of the This wine should be drunk from 2023. Château Lil- Peyrabon vineyard lies in Pauillac and is made into Château la Tour de Mons 2017 Cru Bourgeois ian Ladouys. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. a separate wine. This latest release with 61% Cab- 87 (Margaux). From a single parcel of vines in abv: 13% Price: $23 ernet Sauvignon is smooth, sumptuous with big the northern part of Margaux, this wine is dense tannins and black-currant flavors. With its concen- with extracted tannins. The fresh fruit side of the Château la Haye 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Saint- tration and great fruits, it will age well. Drink from wine is muted and left hanging in the dryness and 92 Estèphe). Dating back to the 16th century, 2023. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. tough edge. Wait and see, and don’t drink this this estate is surrounds a proper castle. This wine abv: 13% Price: $29 before 2022. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. is dense, full of fine, juicy tannins and rich black abv: 13% Price: $44

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 the juicy fruits come through the wine’s structure. Château Devise d’Ardilley 2017 Cru Bourgeois LISTRAC-MÉDOC Drink this wine from 2023. Calvert Woodley Fine 91 (Haut-Médoc). This small estate of 24 acres Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. has made a wine with equal proportions of Caber- Château Fonréaud 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Lis- abv: 13% Price: $25 net Sauvignon and Merlot, and a large percentage of 91 trac-Médoc). This estate is home of the Petit Verdot. It is a rich, wood-aged and ageworthy Chanfreau family that owns several chateaus in Lis- Château Guitignan 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Mou- wine. The dense structure and firm tannins partner trac and neighboring Moulis. While the wine does 91 lis-en-Médoc). In the Lestage-Vidaller family with a dark coffee as well as black-fruit character. It show its wood aging, it also brings out smooth black since the 17th century, this 19-acre property makes needs to age and will be ready from 2023. Ambiente fruits and ripe tannins. It will develop into a richly a solid, densely textured wine. Its smoky structure, Wine Importing. —R.V. structured wine that will age well. Drink from 2023. tannins and perfumed blackberry character are set abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Château Fonréaud. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. for aging, and the wine is likely to be ready from abv: 13% Price: $29 2023. Fine Terroir Selections. —R.V. Château du Retout 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 91 Médoc). This is a dense blend, with more Château Fourcas-Borie 2017 Cru Bourgeois than 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is full of tan- 91 (Listrac-Médoc). Under the control of the Château Caroline 2017 Moulis-en-Médoc. nins as well as bold black fruits. The balance that is winemaking team of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 89 This wine comes from the Moulis prop- already in place assures aging potential. Drink from in Saint-Julien, the estate has crafted a structured erty of the Chanfreau family, whose home base is 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. wine that also has a sumptuous, rich side. It is still in neighboring Listrac. A dense, wood-aged wine, abv: 13% Price: $25 young and shows considerable tannins. Let it age it shows spice as well as concentrated black-plum and drink this wine from 2023. Château Ducru- fruits. The prevalence of Merlot in the blend gives a Château Larose Perganson 2017 Cru Bourgeois Beaucaillou. —R.V. rich, jammy character that is tempered by the tan- 91 (Haut-Médoc). Under the same ownership as abv: 13.5% Price: $40 nins. Drink this wine from 2022. Advantage Inter- neighboring Larose-Trintaudon, this 86-acre estate national. —R.V. is smaller. From close to Pauillac’s vineyards, this Château Saransot-Dupré 2017 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13% Price: $26 blend holds a preponderance of Cabernet Sauvi- 90 (Listrac-Médoc). Bad frost damage in the gnon. Lightly smoky and richly endowed, the wood- Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in 2017 meant that aged wine has spice, ripe tannins and good poten- quantities at this estate were severely reduced. HAUT-MÉDOC tial. Drink from 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection The result is this ripe, structured wine full of juicy Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. blackberry-flavored Merlot. Despite the backdrop Château Cambon la Pelouse 2017 Cru Bour- abv: 13.5% Price: $29 of tannins, the wine will develop over the medium 92 geois (Haut-Médoc). This estate in the term and should be ready from 2022. HB Wine Mer- southern part of the Haut-Médoc region has pro- Château Liversan 2017 Haut-Médoc. From a chants. —R.V. duced a powerfully dense wine. Luscious black 91 128-acre vineyard close to Pauillac, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fruits and concentrated tannins are lifted by the is solidly structured and dense in tannins, with year’s wood aging. Licorice and a firm edge of tan- touches of licorice. That indicates how young this Château Lestage 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Lis- nin give this wine the structure to allow it to age. wine is and how well it will age. Black-plum flavors 88 trac-Médoc). From one of several proper- Drink from 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selec- are just waiting to merge with the structure. Drink ties owned by the Chanfreau family, this wine is tion. —R.V. from 2022. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. Merlot-dominated, giving richness to the solid tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $16 nins. Wood aging still shows and needs to soften to give the wine its smooth texture and bring out juicy Château Croix de Reverdi 2016 Haut-Médoc. Château Maucamps 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- black fruits. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, 91 The 40% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend 91 Médoc). Situated in the village of Macau just Inc. —R.V. gives this wine structure and vibrant black-currant south of Margaux, the 47-acre vineyard has pro- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 flavors. Richly layered with acidity, tannins and duced this wood-aged wine that shows plenty of fruity potential, the wine will be ready to drink from ripe fruits. A touch of licorice goes with juicy black- Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2017 Cru Bourgeois 2022. Pioneer Wine & Spirits of Louisiana. Editors’ berry fruits and acidity to balance the wine. It has 87 (Listrac-Médoc). The 37 acres of this family- Choice. —R.V. a good future and this wine should be ready from owned estate have produced a firm, tannic wine abv: 14% Price: $18 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. that needs some time to soften. The berry-fruit abv: 13% Price: $27 weight gives it ripe potential. Drink this wine from Château d’Agassac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 91 Médoc). The 106-acre vineyard surrounds a Château Maurac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: NA Price: $30 moated 13th-century fortress. This wine is a rich 91 Médoc). Layers of blackberry fruits and rich blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot. tannins pack this dense wine. An opulent feel is bal- Château Capdet 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Lis- It’s a solidly structured wine, full of tannins and anced by fresher acidity. Tannins are already attrac- 86 trac-Médoc). Vinified at the cooperative attractive black-currant fruits. The wine still needs tively integrated. Drink from 2022. Michael Corso of Listrac, this wine has plenty of tannins as well plenty of time to develop so drink from 2023. MS Selections. —R.V. as a firm, stalky character contrasting with black- Walker. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 currant fruits. Likely to soften well, the wine will be abv: 13% Price: $35 ready from 2022. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V. Château Paloumey 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 13% Price: $28 Château de Malleret 2017 Cru Bourgeois 91 Médoc). This wine comes from an old estate 91 (Haut-Médoc). This wine is rich, with layers that was revived in the 1990s after being aban- of ripe blackberry flavors. Firm tannins are inte- doned. The new release is seriously structured, MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC grated into the luscious fruits and hints of wood with bold tannins and intense black-currant fruit. aging. This full-bodied, generous wine is sure to It has potential richness and concentration, likely Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2018 mature well. Drink from 2023. Château de Malleret. to be ready to drink from 2023. Aquitaine Wine 92 Moulis-en-Médoc. An intense black-fruited —R.V. Company. —R.V. wine, this has ripe tannins and flavors that mingle abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 blackberry and licorice. It has a good future, as

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Château Peyrabon 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Château Reysson 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- to soften before the wine is ready to drink. Wait 91 Médoc). Produced by major negociant Mil- 90 Médoc). Owned by negociant company until 2022. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. lésima, this wine is firmly structured, with a dry Dourthe, this estate has produced a richly textured abv: 13.5% Price: $NA core of tannins and a sense of powerful fruit. Black wine in this vintage. Its blend is unusual for the currants and plums come through strongly as does Médoc with 88% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and Château du Moulin Rouge 2017 Cru Bourgeois spice from partial barrel fermentation. Drink this a touch of Petit Verdot. It’s a juicy, rich wine, jammy 88 (Haut-Médoc). Aged in wood for a year, this ripe wine from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. but with acidity to keep freshness. The wine will be wine is smoothly textured with an accessible fresh- abv: 13% Price: $15 ready from 2023. Thiénot USA. —R.V. ness and black-currant flavors. Its soft tannins and abv: 13% Price: $30 smoky edge are attractive and lightly spicy. Drink Château Peyredon Lagravette 2017 Cru Bour- the wine from 2021. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. 91 geois (Haut-Médoc). On the edge of the Château Arnauld 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 13% Price: $20 Moulis vineyards in the area known as Poujeaux, 89 Médoc). An ancient property, this dates to this estate has produced an impressive, wood-aged medieval times when the land was owned by a mon- Château Fonpiqueyre 2017 Cru Bourgeois wine. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine astery. This latest release reveals a wine with power 88 (Haut-Médoc). From one of the range of has classic black-currant flavors as well as firm tan- as well as structure. The 60% Cabernet Sauvignon estates owned by negociant Antoine Moueix, this nins, showing its potential and aging ability. Drink in the blend shows strongly in the black-currant wine is densely structured. Tannins are still firm, from 2023. Polaner Selections. —R.V. fruits and slightly stalky tannins. Drink from 2022. bringing out dark chocolate and licorice flavors as abv: 13% Price: $25 Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. well as juicy black fruits. Drink the wine from 2022. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Cannon Wines Limited. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Pontoise Cabarrus 2017 Cru Bour- abv: 13% Price: $13 91 geois (Haut-Médoc). This densely structured Château Charmail 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- and textured wine offers delicious flavors from the 89 Médoc). This wine is generous and struc- Château Labat 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- 33% new-wood aging. It already has a good balance tured, still young with its tannins while promising 88 Médoc). From vineyards owned by the Nony of rich black fruits and sweet tannins. Drink from a good future. The blackberry flavors and acidity Borie family, also owners of La Caronne, this wine 2022. The Bright Raven. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. already show the fruitiness balancing the tannins. is beautifully structured. Tannins and ripe fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Drink from 2022. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. have come together to give a rich, smoky wine that abv: 13.5% Price: $NA will develop well. Drink from 2022. Angel’s Share Château Bernadotte 2017 Cru Bourgeois Wines. —R.V. 90 (Haut-Médoc). Named after one of Napo- Château Doyac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 13% Price: $25 leon’s generals who became king of Sweden, this 89 Médoc). Somewhat atypical of the Haut- estate has made a generous wine, rich both in tan- Médoc appellation with its 85% Merlot, this wine Château Magnol 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- nins and jammy black fruits. Its structure and core has richness and a blackberry-jelly character as well 88 Médoc). This wine comes from the home of dry tannins are balanced by the smooth texture as a structure that will allow it to age. Juicy acidity estate of major wine producer Barton & Guestier. after wood aging. This sumptuous wine will be shoots through this wine that should be drunk from It is still obviously wood aged from the 12 months ready from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. the wine spent in barrels. These flavors will inte- abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 grate into the ripe black fruits and tannins. Drink the wine from 2023. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Château Cissac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- Château du Raux 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- abv: 13% Price: $30 90 Médoc). The Cabernet Sauvignon and 18 89 Médoc). Half-and-half Cabernet Sauvignon months in wood have given the latest release from and Merlot, this wine comes from vineyards in the Château Meyre 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- this always reliable estate great character and heart of the Haut-Médoc region. It is a full wine, 88 Médoc). The vineyard is inland from Mar- structure. Black currants fruits and balanced tan- dense with both tannins and black fruits. The wine gaux in a sector known for its Cru Bourgeois estates. nins are sustained by acidity and a juicy, succulent has potential, and should be drunk from 2022. Cape This wine with its blend of almost equal parts of aftertaste. Drink this wine from 2023. Elite Wines Classics. —R.V. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus an unusually Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 high percentage of Petit Verdot, is dense, structured abv: 13% Price: $29 and dark in color. The wine needs to age further, so Château Fontesteau 2017 Cru Bourgeois drink from 2023. Alliance Food USA. —R.V. Château Larose-Trintaudon 2017 Cru Bour- 89 (Haut-Médoc). Vines planted on classic abv: 13% Price: $30 90 geois (Haut-Médoc). The massive 550-acre Médoc gravel soil and a dominance of Cabernet property is situated right next to Pauillac’s vine- Sauvignon in the blend have produced this firm Château Saint Ahon 2017 Haut-Médoc. yards. This wine’s ripe texture and generous berry while rich wine. Packed with black fruits, solid tan- 88 This family-owned estate in the southern fruits are balanced by a fresh edge typical of the nins and hints of dark chocolate and spice, the wine Médoc close to Bordeaux has made a classic wine. vintage. With a base of tannins, the wine will age is still aging. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. Black currants, some firm tannins and a sense of the well. Drink from 2022. Monsieur Touton Selection abv: 13% Price: $19 freshness reflective of the vintage all come together Ltd. —R.V. in a structured wine that will be ready from 2022. abv: 13% Price: $25 Château Corconnac 2017 Cru Bourgeois Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. 88 (Haut-Médoc). A densely tannic wine, this abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Château Ramage la Batisse 2017 Cru Bour- is structured and still firm. The wine needs time, 90 geois (Haut-Médoc). Close to Pauillac, this because the black-currant flavors and spicy charac- Château Bibian 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Haut- estate has produced a well-structured wine with ter are all in place, proffering aging potential. Drink 87 Médoc). A blend dominated by the Merlot juicy black-currant flavors from the 50% Cabernet the wine from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. with Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is generous and Sauvignon in the blend. Fruity, in the style of the abv: 13% Price: $25 ripe with black fruits. Tannins have already softened vintage, it will develop well, relatively quickly, and into the fruit while wood-aging spice gives a hint of be ready from 2022. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. Château d’Hanteillan 2017 Cru Bourgeois licorice that will dissipate. Drink this balanced wine abv: 12.5% Price: $25 88 (Haut-Médoc). A ripe, perfumed and juicy from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. wine, this is full of attractive, young black-currant abv: 13.5% Price: $20 flavors. It is structured, with dry tannins that need

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Château Livran 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). powerful fruitiness as well as tannins that will MÉDOC 90 As befits a wine from the Médoc, this blend develop. Drink from 2022. Paustis Wines. —R.V. holds a goodly proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Château Côtes de Blaignan 2016 Cru Bour- That translates into black-currant fruits, stylish 91 geois (Médoc). The 30-acre estate, owned by tannins and a structure that will allow the wine to Château la Valière 2017 Cru Bourgeois the same family since the 19th century, is on one age. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 88 (Médoc). This wine’s tannins are still of the gravel outcrops that indicate quality in the abv: 13% Price: $30 prominent, matching the intensity of the black- Médoc. This wine has ripe berry fruits, rich tannins currant fruit. That suggests it needs some time to and a juicy, smoky character that makes it a classic. Château Patache d’Aux 2017 Médoc. Named age, likely turning into a fruity, perfumed wine from Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 after the stagecoach (patache) stop, this 2022. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 estate with its 170-acre vineyard has produced a abv: 13.5% Price: $20 rich wine that showcases its 60% Cabernet Sauvi- Château Loudenne 2017 Le Château Cru Bour- gnon. With tannins and ripe blackberry fruits, this Château Le Bourdieu 2017 Cru Bourgeois 91 geois (Médoc). Dating to the 17th century, wine has both structure and richness. Drink from 88 (Médoc). Nearly 100 acres, this property this estate that languished in 2000s is now realiz- 2022. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. is planted to half-and-half Cabernet Sauvignon ing its potential. Full of bold black fruits and crisply abv: 13.5% Price: $23 and Merlot. This latest release is smoky from wood textured tannins, this vintage is developing well aging while the fruit is just setting out on a ripe, although it does need time. Drink this ripe wine Château Tour Haut-Caussan 2017 Cru Bour- juicy black-currant-flavored journey. The elements from 2022. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. 90 geois (Médoc). This wine is sourced from still need to come together, but the wine will be —R.V. a vineyard that is situated on a high point of deep ready from 2022. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 gravel. It is dense and well structured in blackberry abv: 13% Price: $18 fruits and ripe tannins that are balanced by bright Château Blaignan 2017 Cru Bourgeois acidity. The wine’s texture and dry core promise Château Lestruelle 2017 Médoc. This ripe 90 (Médoc). This rich wine from a 240-acre some aging, so drink from 2022. LVDH. —R.V. 88 wine is full of blackberry fruits and firm vineyard is full of juicy black fruits and ripe tannins. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tannins. Wood aging still shows in a burnt charac- Black-currant flavors come through strongly in a ter, but that will dissipate. From 2022, the wine will wine that is still vibrant with young fruit. Drink the Château Vernous 2017 Cru Bourgeois be smoothly textured and structured. —R.V. wine from 2021. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. 90 (Médoc). A blend with 60% Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $23 vignon, this ripe, structured wine is full of satisfy- ing black fruits and acidity. They go with the dry- Château Moulin de Canhaut 2017 Médoc. Château Castera 2017 Cru Bourgeois ness of tannins to give a wine that has a promising 88 Aged for just over a year in wood, this wine 90 (Médoc). This 155-acre estate dates back future. Drink from 2022. Château Vernous. —R.V. has plenty of spice, but its appeal is equally in the to the Middle Ages. Today, the modernization of abv: 13% Price: $25 bright black-currant fruits and gentle tannins. the vineyard has resulted in an accessible wine While the wine is still young and full of vibrant that combines fine tannins and ripe black fruits. Château de Panigon 2017 Cru Bourgeois fruit, its balance will guarantee early maturing. This wine has some of the freshness of the vintage 89 (Médoc). Georges Dadda’s 130-acre vine- Drink from 2021. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. although it does need to age. Drink from 2022. yard creates a classically structured wine that offers abv: 13% Price: $NA Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. young tannins and lightly stalky fruit. It has a fresh abv: 13% Price: $28 edge and acidity that will allow the wine to age well. Château Pey de Pont 2017 Cru Bourgeois Drink from 2022. Milton’s Distributing Co., Inc. 88 (Médoc). In the same family for three gen- Château La Cardonne 2017 Cru Bourgeois —R.V. erations, this estate has made a ripe wine that bal- 90 (Médoc). This 111-acre property is situated abv: 13% Price: $20 ances dry tannins and generous black fruits. Ripe- on a plateau of gravel and clay, a high point in the ness comes from the Merlot in the blend, giving this Médoc. Showing off its wood aging, this smoky wine Château Escot 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). wine a jammy character. Drink from 2022. Misa also boasts plenty of blackberry flavors. The struc- 89 From a 42-acre vineyard, this wine is domi- Imports. —R.V. ture will stand it in good stead as it matures. Drink nated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Considerable layers abv: 13.5% Price: $20 from 2022. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. of wood flavor are still an important presence. As abv: 13% Price: $25 the spice and toast integrate, the ripe black fruits Château Saint-Hilaire 2017 Cru Bourgeois should emerge. Drink from 2022. Mr. Wine. —R.V. 88 (Médoc). A blend of 50% Cabernet Sau- Château la Roque de By 2017 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13% Price: $39 vignon with the balance made up of Merlot and a 90 (Médoc). This 24-acre property is close pinch of Cabernet Franc, this wine has been wood to the Gironde estuary, always a good sign in the Château Fontis 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). aged, giving polish to the bright, still-young black- Médoc. Richly full bodied, this is a 50/50 Cabernet 88 A blend that is half-and-half Merlot and currant fruits. The structure and layer of tannins Sauvignon and Merlot blend. Its tannins and classic Cabernet Sauvignon has given this dense wine from mean it needs to age further. Drink from 2022. Tru black-currant fruitiness promise aging. Drink from the deep gravel soils. Produced by the Boivert fam- Wines LLC. —R.V. 2023. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. ily, this wine is full of potential, with tannins and abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $21 blackberry fruits coming harmoniously together. Drink from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. Château Fleur la Mothe 2017 Cru Bourgeois Château les Ormes de Pez 2017 Cru Bour- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 87 (Médoc). Young, ripe and fruity, this blend 90 geois (Médoc). With its high percentage of 60% Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon is struc- of Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a tightly structured Château la France Delhomme 2017 Cru Bour- tured, crisply textured and full of black-currant wine with rich tannins as well as dense blackberry 88 geois (Médoc). Named after ancestors of flavors. Developing well, the wine should be ready flavors. With its youthful structure and fruit, the Patrick Bouey, the present owner, this dense wine from 2022. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. wine needs time. Drink from 2023. B&Bs French is smoky with licorice as well as black-fruit flavors. abv: 13% Price: $24 Wine Club. —R.V. It is developing into a generous, rich wine that has abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Château Gemeillan 2017 Cru Bourgeois 87 (Médoc). A tight, crisp, black-currant-

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BUYINGGUIDE driven wine, this is juicy and fruity. With a fresh this wine, there has been too much wood for the along with some extraction. Its future, though, is character lifted by smokiness, the wine is likely to good of the fruit. A shame, because the ripe black- good and it should be ready from 2022. This spe- develop quickly. Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. berry flavors show some potential, but they are cial-edition wine has Russian art labels, inspired by —R.V. overwhelmed by wood aging that will always make the Russian businessman and art collector owner, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 its presence felt. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Andrei Filatov. Deluxe Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $359 Château Haut Grignon 2017 Cru Bourgeois 87 (Médoc). Situated close to the Gironde estu- Château Loirac 2017 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Château Palais Cardinal 2016 Saint-Émilion. ary and therefore benefiting from a warming micro- 85 With a dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in 92 The unusually high proportion of Cabernet climate, this estate has produced a ripe blend that the blend with Merlot, this wine is firm and austere. Sauvignon in this Saint-Emilion gives this wine a has 67% Cabernet Sauvignon. Black-currant fruits The tannins and the structure are dominant and sophisticated structure while bringing out black and ripe tannins are shot through with youthful need to soften, but the wine will remain lean. Fruit currants as well as good acidity. From a 46-acre acidity. Drink the wine from 2022. Calvet. —R.V. of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. vineyard the wine is perfumed with attractive acid- abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 ity. Drink from 2022. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 Château la Ribaud 2017 Médoc. Owned by Château Maison Blanche 2017 Cru Bourgeois 87 the Bouey family, this estate has made a 85 (Médoc). Dominated by its 80% Merlot, Château du Cauze 2017 Bordeaux-style Red wine that is stalky and full of black-currant fruits. this blend is surprisingly lean, with firm, dry tan- 91 Blend (Saint-Émilion). This is a well-bal- This wine’s smoky structure and acidity reflect its nins and stalky fruit. Acidity and a taut character anced, poised wine. Merlot and Cabernet Franc lend youth. With time, all this young energy will calm. come through at the end. Drink from 2022. Tri-Vin their bold fruit and perfumed characters, showing a Just wait until 2022. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. great structure to match the ripe blackberry fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $15 The wine is still young, demanding aging. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Leboscq 2017 Cru Bourgeois Château Noaillac 2017 Cru Bourgeois abv: 14.5% Price: $32 87 (Médoc). A soft and fruity wine, this is fresh 85 (Médoc). This wine has been overtaken by and already attractively ready to drink. Black-cur- the sort of wood aging more appropriate in a richer Château la Grace Dieu des Prieurs 2016 Art rant flavors and crisp acidity are bright and vibrant, vintage. That has smothered the light fruitiness of 91 Russe (Saint-Émilion). Owned by Russian with just a hint of tannin. Drink from 2021. Cannon the wine, which needs a lot of time to soften. It’s a businessman and art collector Andrei Filatov, the Wines Limited. —R.V. question whether the wine will ever fully balance. estate has launched special-edition wines with abv: 13% Price: $16 Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Russian art labels. This obviously wood-aged wine abv: 13% Price: $17 shows intense spice and some bitter toastiness that Château Poitevin 2017 Cru Bourgeois needs to soften to bring out blackberry fruits from 87 (Médoc). This 61-acre estate in the north- the 90% Merlot in the blend. It needs to age, at ern Médoc is close to the Gironde estuary. A blend least until 2023. Deluxe Wine and Spirits. —R.V. mainly of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it is ripe abv: 14% Price: $369 and generously structured. With its black fruits and Château Haut Selve 2017 Graves. This ripe, lightly stalky character, the wine is still developing. 91 richly textured wine has promise. Rich, Château Capet-Guillier 2017 Saint-Émilion. Drink from 2022. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. smooth black fruits shine, polished with wood aging 90 This well-structured wine shows rich Mer- abv: 13% Price: $20 and kept fresh by acidity. The balance of the wine is lot along with tannins and a good potential. It has just right, but it needs more aging. Drink from 2022 weight and balance, a blend of black-currant fruits, Château Roquegrave 2017 Cru Bourgeois Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. solid tannins and succulent acidity. Drink this wine 87 (Médoc). This classically structured wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 from 2022. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. offers plenty of black-currant fruits and firm tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 nins. These are combining into a wine that has Château le Bonnat 2017 Graves. A struc- young, stalky touches as well as ripeness. Drink 90 tured blend of 65% Merlot with Cabernet Château Palais Cardinal 2016 Le Palatin de from 2022. Lionstone International. —R.V. Sauvignon, this wine offers elegant, juicy black- 89 Château Palais Cardinal (Saint-Émilion). abv: 12.5% Price: $18 currant flavors. It displays a crisp character typical The second wine from this estate, this is richly of the vintage, bringing freshness to this wine that structured with tannins that are fully integrated Château David 2016 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). will be ready from 2021. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. with the juicy fruits. The dry core is already well 86 One of the most northerly estates in the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 developed and the wine will be ready to drink from Médoc has produced a wine that has almost equal 2021. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Stalky Château Tour Bicheau 2018 Graves. A blend abv: 13% Price: $40 black-currant fruits and tannins give this wine its 88 of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sau- structure sustained by acidity and some dryness. It vignon, this is a well-structured wine. It is young, Château Belle Assise Coureau 2017 Saint- is ready to drink. Wine Source International. —R.V. bursting with black fruits, acidity and touches of 88 Émilion. This wine with a high proportion abv: 13.5% Price: $13 the wood aging. This is a wine to mature for a while of perfumed Cabernet Franc lifts the richness of the and to drink from 2022. —R.V. Merlot, giving shape and structure. Juicy with berry Château Beauvillage 2017 Cru Bourgeois abv: 13.5% Price: $NA flavors, it will be ready to drink from 2021. Misa 85 (Médoc). The 12 months in wood have left Imports. —R.V. their mark on this toasty, extracted wine. Some abv: 13% Price: $20 juicy fruits are too muted at this stage. Let the wine SAINT-ÉMILION rest a while and try again from 2022. Virginie Rol- Château Joly 2018 Saint-Émilion. This is a land Selections. —R.V. Château la Grace Dieu des Prieurs 2015 Art 87 lean style of wine, with solid, dry extracted abv: 13% Price: $25 92 Russe (Saint-Émilion). Aging for 22 months tannins that are smothering the fruit. While the in new wood has given this wine a rich, smooth tex- wine has fruitiness, it is also likely to keep its firm Château La Branne 2017 Cru Bourgeois ture, while bestowing spiciness and a toast charac- 85 (Médoc). On the nose and on the palate of ter. The wine has weight and considerable structure

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 texture. Drink from 2022 when the wine will be at will mature well. Drink from late 2020. Fruit of the fruit, the heavy-handed wood-aging could well stay its best. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Vines, Inc. —R.V. around. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Domaine Cru Cantemerle 2012 Cuvée Pres- BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 89 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This wood-aged brings out the fruitiness of this vintage. It has Château Roland-La-Garde 2016 Blaye Côtes achieved the right amount of softness, with the fruit Château des Arnauds 2018 Bordeaux. On 88 de Bordeaux. This is a mature wine. Tannins and tannins fully integrated. The wine, full of black- 88 the right bank of Bordeaux, close to Lussac and black currant fruits from the 80% Merlot and berry flavors, is ready to drink. W. Direct. —R.V. Saint-Emilion, this property has produced a ripe, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend give richness and abv: 13% Price: $30 Merlot-dominant wine. With juicy black fruits and a generous feel to the wine that is ready to drink. richness, this wine is warm, generous. and will be Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Lamothe 2018 Les Grands Terroirs ready from late 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Dense and struc- abv: 14% Price: $17 tured, this bottling still shows the wood aging, Château Haut-Moulin 2017 Vieilles Vignes but it will develop into a ripe, black-fruit-flavored Château Haut Boutisse 2018 Bordeaux. 87 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Produced from wine. With its 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet 88 With a majority of Cabernet Franc and the organically grown fruit, this spicy blend with 90% Sauvignon, the wine has structure as well as a more balance Merlot, this is a juicy, perfumed red-fruit- Merlot is juicy, jammy and full of warm black fruits. jammy side. Drink from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. flavored wine. Still young, its structure and fresh- A light touch of tannin gives the wine shape and Best Buy. —R.V. ness are right up front. Attractively balanced it will structure. Drink the wine from 2021. Fruit of the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 be ready to drink from late 2020. Latitude Wines, Vines, Inc. —R.V. Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 Domaine Cru Cantemerle 2009 Cuvée Pres- abv: 13% Price: $25 88 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). While 2009 was Château la Valade 2018 Blaye Côtes de Bor- seen as an opulent vintage, this bottling suggests Château Chillac 2016 Bordeaux. This organi- 87 deaux. With its slight structure and fresh, that some wines are past their best. The dryness 87 cally run vineyard has produced a smoothly juicy berry flavors, this wine will develop fast. Acid- here suggests age rather than potential. So this wine rich wine full of black fruits. A light tannic struc- ity and light tannins come through and promise fur- needs to be drunk fast. W. Direct. —R.V. ture brings out smokiness that balances with the ther aging. Drink from 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 wine’s freshness. Drink now. Wine Source Interna- abv: 14% Price: $17 tional. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Ballue Mondon 2018 Bordeaux abv: 12.5% Price: $10 87 Supérieur. This softly textured ripe wine has BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR generous black fruits as well as young acidity. While Château Croix Saint-Martin 2018 Bordeaux. it has a tannic edge, the jammy Merlot is already 87 Warm, rich black fruits come from the 75% Château Haut Claribès 2018 Bordeaux drinkable, but it will be best to wait until late 2020. Merlot in this blend. It is a soft wine, just hinting at 90 Supérieur. Warm Merlot gives this ripe wine W. Direct. —R.V. tannins with plenty of juicy acidity and ripe berry weight and makes the black-plum flavors attractive. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 flavors. Drink now. Wine Source International.Best Spice and acid combines with the density and the Buy. —R.V. tannins so the wine should develop well. Drink from Château Lamothe 2017 Les Grands Terroirs abv: 13.5% Price: $10 2021. W. Direct. —R.V. 87 (Bordeaux Supérieur). This ripe wine offers abv: 14% Price: $25 warm tannins as well as rich blackberry fruits. Château Lamothe-Vincent 2018 Libertae Acidity shines through the richness, bringing a 87 Sans Sufites (Bordeaux). This blend of Mer- Domaine Cru Cantemerle 2010 Cuvée Pres- breathe of air to the structure and density. Drink lot and Malbec was bottled without added sulfur. 90 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This structured now. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. It is a ripe wine, still young, layering black fruits wine still shows bright fruits as much as a mature abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and tannins with a ripe structure that will soften structure. It’s a wine for further aging, bring- comfortably. Drink this generous wine from 2021. ing black-currant fruits and the core of tannins Château du Tasta 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. together. The wine, from a great vintage, needs more 86 This dense, spicy wine still shows its wood- abv: 14.5% Price: $10 time. Drink from 2022. W. Direct. —R.V. aging flavors. It is rich and obviously high in alcohol, abv: 13% Price: $30 which manifests in the pepper and the over-rich Château Moulin de la Faye 2016 Bordeaux. jammy Merlot fruits. The wine will be ready from 87 This ripe, jammy wine is now approaching Château Beausoleil 2018 Bordeaux Supéri- late 2020. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. maturity. Its rich texture and black fruits have soft- 89 eur. This rich, dense wine is full of ripe tan- abv: 15% Price: $NA ened together to give a dense wine that is ready to nins and black-currant fruits. It comes from two drink. Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V. parcels in the northern Bordeaux region, aged in Château Pascaud 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. abv: 14% Price: $10 wood and with good potential. Drink this full wine 85 This family-owned vineyard in the Entre- from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. deux-Mers region of Bordeaux has produced a wine Kressmann 2018 Monopole (Bordeaux). This abv: 13.5% Price: $11 that has weight mitigated by the stalky fruit and 87 brand has been made since the 19th century. acidity. Still young, this wine will be ready from The latest vintage shows generous black fruits bal- Château de Camarsac 2017 Sélection Vie- 2021. Europvin USA. —R.V. anced by tannins. It is an open wine that has devel- 89 illes Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). The dra- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 oped quickly and attractively. Drink from late 2020. matic castle on a hill in the Entre-deux-Mers village Wine Source International. —R.V. of Camarsac is owned by a member of the Lurton Château Tour Saint Paul 2018 Bordeaux abv: 13.5% Price: $15 family. This latest release is packed with fruit and 85 Supérieur. Wood aging is still obvious in this ripe tannins. Together they give a brightly textured spicy, toasty wine. Bitter extraction flavors empha- Château le Pré du Moine 2018 Cuvée Peyrou wine still with hints of young stalkiness but which size the woodiness. While there is black-currant 86 (Bordeaux). Perfumed Merlot jumps from the glass in this bright, juicy and red-berry-flavored

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BUYINGGUIDE wine. It’s young and tannins give a dry core to the Château Fayan 2018 Puisseguin Saint-Émil- Château Tour Bel-Air 2017 Montagne-Saint- ripe fruits. Let everything soften and drink from late 90 ion. Young, smoky and spicy, this wine has 88 Émilion. A perfumed 15% of Caberenet 2020. Misa Imports. —R.V. layers of rich tannins and black-plum fruits. The Franc gives this wine a floral character, attractively abv: 13.5% Price: $15 concentration and light licorice and black-coffee balanced by ripe black fruits. Still young, with flavors need to soften before the wine is ready to a core of tannins, the wine has weight while also Château Bellevue 2018 Bordeaux. A simple, enjoy. Drink from 2023. Advantage International. having fresh acidity. Drink from 2021. Fruit of the 85 soft and fruity wine made from 65% Mer- Best Buy. —R.V. Vines, Inc. —R.V. lot, this is accessible, full of black fruits and gentle abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $24 tannins. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Château la Fleur 2018 Montagne-Saint- Château Bellonne 2017 Saint-Georges-Saint- 90 Émilion. This full-bodied wine has firm 87 Émilion. Partial oak aging has given this ele- Château Haut-Bazignan 2018 Bordeaux. tannins and a smoky perfume from the 20% Caber- gantly packaged wine spice as well as enhancing the 85 This full, extracted wine has a stalky edge to net Franc in the blend. The ripe structure promises black fruits. Tannins and a rich structure are part of its black fruits. Tannins from the fruit give a touch good aging to bring out the rich blackberry fruits. this wine that is still young. A hint of rusticity is a of bitterness to juicy core of the wine. Drink now. T. Drink from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. downside to what is otherwise a wine with a future. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23 Drink from 2021. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Lamothe-Bouscaut 2017 Pessac- Château Lamothe-Vincent 2018 Intense 90 Léognan. Under the same ownership as Château Tour de Cazelle 2018 Côtes de Bourg. 84 (Bordeaux). Intense is a good name for this Graves Cru Classé Château Bouscaut, this wine is 87 With 80% Merlot in its blend, this wine has wine that is packed with very fresh red fruits. Light elegant and spicy. Wood aging still shows in a toasty a ripe character. Black fruits and fresh acidity bal- tannins just support the fruitiness of this wine that character that will integrate into the black-currant ance the core of young, dry tannins. Everything will is ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. fruits over the next few months. With a majority of come together from 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine will age well. Drink abv: 13% Price: $19 from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Le Bédat 2018 Bordeaux. This wine abv: 14% Price: $40 Château Vieux Chevrol 2016 Lalande de 84 is full of black fruits, with a lean edge that 87 Pomerol. Still with plenty of tannins, this emphasizes tannins. This dry character will prob- Château Roc de Bécot 2016 Puisseguin Saint- structured wine, with 80% Merlot, is crisp as much ably remain. W. Direct. —R.V. 90 Émilion. An opulent wine full of broad black as ripe, but with some good aging potential. Tannins abv: 13.5% Price: $18 fruits and ripe tannins, this is almost entirely Mer- will soften further as the wine matures, so wait to lot. It’s a generous wine, the warm structure lifted drink until 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. Château Thomas-Laurent 2017 Bordeaux. A by the blackberry fruit and acidity. Drink from late abv: 13.5% Price: $23 84 soft wine, this is rather formless although 2020. Wine Source International. —R.V. it does have some attractive black fruits. It is juicy abv: 14% Price: $30 Château Vieux Chevrol 2018 Lalande de and ready to drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 85 Pomerol. This lean, stalky wine has consid- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Château Grimont 2018 Cuvée Prestige (Cadil- erable acidity as well as a dry edge of tannins. It will 89 lac Côtes de Bordeaux). Vineyards planted calm into a more rounded full wine as it matures, on the slopes above the small riverside castle-town but it seems like it will be on the thin side. Misa OTHER RED WINES of Cadillac are the source of this ripe and structured Imports. —R.V. wine. It has balance, just avoiding too much wood abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Château les Ormes 2017 Saint-Julien. This aging and bringing out ripe blackberry flavors as 92 is a dense, structured wine, perfumed and well as juicy acidity. The wine will be ready from with good potential. From one of the rare estates in 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. WHITE WINES Saint-Julien that is not a classed growth, it is full abv: 13% Price: $15 of black-currant flavors, ripe tannins and a crisp Château Lamothe-Bouscaut 2018 Pessac- texture that will soften as the wine matures. Drink Château La Pierrière 2018 Castillon Côtes 91 Léognan. The owners of classed growth Châ- from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. 89 de Bordeaux. From an estate in the east- teau Bouscaut have produced a wood-aged, lightly —R.V. ern vineyards of Bordeaux close to Saint-Emilion, herbal and ripe wine from their other estate. This abv: 13.5% Price: $60 this is a big, structured wine. Dark tannins and rich wine has spice and plenty of youthful acidity from fruits are developing into a powerfully structured the 80% of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. It will Château Macquin St Georges 2017 Saint- wine that will need some aging. Drink from 2022. broaden and become a rich wine in the medium 92 Georges-Saint-Émilion. In a traditionally- Wine Source International. Best Buy. —R.V. term. Drink from 2021. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. shaped bottle with sloping shoulders, this blend is abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 dominated by Merlot. Juicy black fruits are lifted by crisp acidity. At this stage, the tannins are a major Château Grimont 2018 Cadillac Côtes de Château Haut Selve 2018 Graves. A taut and element, promising good aging for the wine. Drink 88 Bordeaux. This generous wine is balanced 90 mineral-driven wine, this is crisp, textured from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. between ripe black fruits and acidity. Tannins sus- and fresh. Wood aging has given the 60% Sauvi- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tain this full-bodied wine with its aging potential. gnon Blanc in the blend a lift, bringing all the fruit Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. flavors to a bright point. Drink the wine from late Château Saint Jacques 2017 Pomerol. This abv: 14.5% Price: $12 2020. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 92 mainly Merlot blend is richly structured abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and still developing. It is still young, with tannins Château La Croix 2018 Cuvée Madeleine up front. But it has the weight and the density of the 88 (Fronsac). Ripe black fruits embolden this Château le Bonnat 2018 Graves. The 60% black fruits to develop into a well-balanced wine. wine giving contrasting freshness to the structure. 88 Sémillon in the blend of this wine gives Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. The wine is too young and needs time. Drink from it a ripe texture. Hints of tropical fruits as well as abv: 13% Price: $50 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. green-plum flavors are balanced by the smoothing abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 effect of six months’ aging in wood. The wine will marked by hits of salted nut and tobacco leaf. Hand oak tones well. Best enjoyed now–2024. Vineyard be ready from late 2020. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Picked Selections. —A.I. Brands. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $38

Kressmann 2019 Monopole (Bordeaux Cave de Tain 2017 Grand Classique (Crozes- 87 Blanc). Completely herbal in character, this 89 Hermitage). Crisp and appley, this full-bod- COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES wine is crisp, full of green fruits, gooseberries and ied but vivacious Marsanne offers succulent pear acidity. It is just right to drink now. Wine Source and lemon flavors flanked by veins of hazelnut and Château Mourgues du Grès 2017 Capitelles International. —R.V. spice. It’s fresh and fruity but robust and elegant, 92 (Costières de Nîmes). Intensely concen- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 lingering on a pleasantly bitter twist. It will be best trated notes of fresh pear and lemon are accented by in its youth, now through 2022. Hand Picked Selec- clove, cinnamon and toast in this rounded, volup- tions. —A.I. tuous white. A -dominant blend SOUTHERN FRANCE abv: 13.5% Price: $27 augmented by Roussanne and Viognier, it’s a juicy, richly textured dry wine with a long, mineral finish. WHITE WINES It should improve through 2025 and hold further CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE still. David Bowler Wine. —A.I. CONDRIEU abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Brotte 2018 Domaine Barville (Châteauneuf- Delas Frères 2017 Clos Boucher (Condrieu). 93 du-Pape). Fermentation and maturation Domaine de Poulvarel 2018 Les Cantarelles 94 Whispers of crushed mineral and crisp in new French oak lends lavish streaks of vanilla, 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Six months of matura- white melon meld into white-peach and grape- cinnamon and toast to this varietal Roussanne, but tion in barriques lend sultry notes of clove, white fruit in this rich, almost waxen Viognier. Classic in there’s plenty of concentrated pineapple, tangerine pepper and smoke to this full-bodied blend of expression, it’s a bold, gregarious wine spiced with and apple too. It’s hedonistic and creamy in texture Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and . Still, a heady tones of vanilla, clove and honey. A touch of but beautifully structured. This wine should gain pristine core of zesty pear and fragrant white blos- phenolic bitterness lingers elegantly on the finish. balance and integration over the next decade. Mon- soms lend a fresh, balanced tone. It’s an elegant, Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. sieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. structured wine to enjoy through 2025. Blicker abv: 14.5% Price: $95 abv: 14% Price: $55 Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 Château de Saint-Cosme 2017 Condrieu. Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2017 Châ- 93 Notes of apricot and white blossom build 93 teauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of Grenache Château Beaubois 2018 Confidence from nose to palate in this voluptuous Viognier. Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne, this 90 (Costières de Nîmes). Delicate apple and Concentrated peach and orange-cream flavors dry white balances crisp pineapple and peach fla- pear on the nose transition into juicier grapefruit undulate on the palate, rimmed by heady vanilla vors against hints of nuts and smoke. It’s mouth- and tangerine on the palate of this buoyant blend of and anise. This is a bold, flashy sip, anchored by a watering and silky on the palate but finishes with 95% Grenache Blanc augmented by small propor- pleasant bite of bitters on the finish. Craft + Estate– a refreshing mineral lift. Lovely already it should tions of Viognier and Vermentino. It’s voluptuous Winebow. —A.I. develop smokier, earthen complexities with time. but pertly balanced, finishing on nut and spice. Best abv: 14% Price: $85 David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. enjoyed now–2024. Dionysus Imports Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $18 Delas Frères 2017 La Galopine (Condrieu). 93 While earthen and smoky initially, this bold Brotte 2018 Les Hauts de Barville (Châ- Château d’Or et de Gueules 2018 Costières Viognier reveals zesty tangerine and white-floral 92 teauneuf-du-Pape). Inflections of spice 90 de Nîmes. Translucent and sheer, this uno- perfume with time and aeration. It’s a hefty wine and hazelnut accent sun-kissed lemon and grape- aked blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Ver- that collapses in waves of peach and apricot on fruit flavors in this elegant, unoaked white made mentino offers bold strikes of fresh white peach and the palate. This classic representation of Condrieu primarily from Grenache Blanc. It’s a voluptuously pear accented by peppery spice. It’s effortlessly easy should hold well through 2027. Maisons Marques & textured wine but refreshingly balanced, edged by drinking, with revitalizing freshness on the finish. Domaines USA. —A.I. bright tangerine acidity and a cutting mineral fin- Drink now–2023. The Wine House. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $68 ish. Best enjoyed now–2024. Monsieur Touton abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Selection Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Château L’Ermitage 2018 Epicuria (Costières CROZES-HERMITAGE 90 de Nîmes). Crisp white peach and tart pine- Château Mont-Redon 2018 Abeille-Fabre apple are edged with dusty mineral tones in this Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 La Matinière 92 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). While the nose is elegant unoaked blend of Roussanne and Viognier. 91 (Crozes-Hermitage). There’s a rocky, refresh- more mineral than fruity, zesty lemon and grape- Dry and moderately full bodied, it’s a vibrant, zesty ingly mineral tone from nose to finish in this full- fruit abound on the palate of this medium-bodied white with a lingering stony finish. Best enjoyed bodied but elegantly composed white. Lemon and white. It’s silky and mouthclinging but balanced by now–2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. apple flavors are ripe and juicy but briskly balanced. crisp acidity and a lingering hazelnut finish. Ready abv: 13.5% Price: $30 The finish is long and pristine. Best now–2023. already it should gain savory complexities through Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. 2030. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. Château L’Ermitage 2018 Sainte-Cécile abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $46 90 (Costières de Nîmes). Lavish swirls of caramel, clove and smoked nut accentuate this Cave de Tain 2017 Nobles Rives (Crozes- 2017 Les Sinards (Châteauneuf- full-bodied blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Gre- 90 Hermitage). On first whiff, this full-bodied 91 du-Pape). Pineapple and white-grapefruit nache Blanc. Apple, pear and grapefruit flavors are Marsanne seems a bit quiet, suggesting faint earth flavors are spiced by toast, cinnamon and smoked juicy and intensely concentrated on the palate. It’s and smoke. The palate, however, is ripe and pen- nut in this ample, open-knit white. A lavish, mouth- unabashedly oaky in youth but boasts a refreshingly etrating, bursting with plump white grapefruit and watering blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and mineral finish. It should gain better balance through apple. It’s savory yet satisfyingly fruity. The finish is Roussanne, it balances pristine fruit and delicate 2025. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Domaine de Poulvarel 2018 Domaine Blanc nache Blanc and 30% Roussanne, this full-bodied, Laudun Chusclan 2018 Maison Sinnae Excel- 90 (Costières de Nîmes). Whispers of smoke dry white offers delicate notes of apple and pear 89 lence (Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun). and struck flint introduce this blend of equal parts edged by dusty mineral tones. Rounded and savory Caramel, vanilla and anise lend warmth to crisp Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Dry and full bodied, on the palate, it has a finish marked by hints of yellow apple and pear in this wine. A full-bodied, it offers concentrated yellow-apple and quince fla- bramble, spice and salt. It’s best enjoyed now succulent blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Rous- vors marked by a tang of minerality. This unoaked, through 2023. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —A.I. sanne and Viognier, it’s a juicy, easy-drinking sip transparent sip should drink well through 2025. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 best enjoyed young. Cutting Edge Selections. —A.I. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Clos des Centenaires 2018 Les Centenaires 87 (Costières de Nîmes). While the nose is Famille Gourjon 2018 Château Font Barrièle restrained, the palate of this dry white blend offers CÔTES DU RHÔNE 90 Les Vignes d’Héloïse (Costières de Nîmes). zesty apple and pear marked by hints of anise and Perfumed notes of orange blossom and spice intro- pepper. It’s full bodied and easy drinking, best Tardieu-Laurent 2017 Guy Louis (Côtes du duce this pristine dry white. A blend of 75% Rous- enjoyed now through 2023. Jack Edwards Collec- 91 Rhône). Dusty earth tones mingle into sanne and 25% Grenache Blanc, it’s full bodied and tion. Best Buy. —A.I. vanilla, spice and baked apple in this bold, full-bod- lusciously textured but balanced by sunny lemon abv: 13% Price: $10 ied white blend. A luscious wine that finishes with acidity. Enjoy this easy-drinking white now through an elegant twist of bitters, it drinks well already but 2023. European Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. should develop pleasantly savory, caramel complex- abv: 13% Price: $15 CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ities over the next few years. Drink through 2023. Europvin USA. —A.I. Château Vessière 2018 Costières de Nîmes. Domaine Beau Mistral 2018 Cuvée Elégance abv: 13.5% Price: $33 89 Brisk white grapefruit and lemon take cen- 92 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Perfumed notes ter stage in this full-bodied but dry and refreshing of violet and grapefruit are peppered by subtle E. Guigal 2017 Côtes du Rhône. Baked apple, white. Unoaked and fruit forward, it’s an easy- kisses of clove and vanilla in this exuberant Viog- 90 cardamom and smoke introduce this full- drinking sip best enjoyed young. Canon de Colo- nier-based blend. It’s an ample, concentrated wine bodied, lusciously waxen white. It’s a rippling, tex- rado. —A.I. with thirst-quenching citrus and apple flavors. It’s tural wine that finishes on an elegantly salty tang. abv: 13% Price: $19 an elegant, aromatic sip best enjoyed now through Enjoy now–2023. Vintus LLC. —A.I. 2024. The Wine Source. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Clos des Centenaires 2018 Costières de abv: 13.5% Price: $20 89 Nîmes. Judicious notes of clove, vanilla Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Les Abeilles (Côtes and toast accent plush white grapefruit and yellow Chateau MontPlaisir 2018 Eclats (Côtes du 90 du Rhône). For full review see page 17. Best apple in this varietal Roussanne augmented by 10% 90 Rhône Villages). A blend of 80% Viognier Buy. Marsanne. It’s a lavishly oaky, opulent wine that and 20% Marsanne, this perfumed white wafts of abv: 13% Price: $13 should drink well through 2025. Jack Edwards Col- bergamot and fresh white peaches. It’s rich on the lection. —A.I. palate, concentrated in grapefruit and yellow-apple abv: 13.5% Price: $20 flavors, but freshly composed too. The finish is OTHER WHITE WINES marked by a kiss of anise. Amphorium LLC. —A.I. Vignoble François Boyer 2018 Costières de abv: 13.5% Price: $21 E. Guigal 2015 Ex Voto (Hermitage). Smoke, 89 Nîmes. While the nose is herbaceous and a 93 cedar and vanilla tones are pronounced now, bit savory, the palate of this dry, full-bodied white Domaine Saint Amant 2017 La Tabardonne but plenty of succulent white peach, apricot and bursts with crisp apple, pear and grapefruit. A 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Traces of but- tangerine pulses at the core of this generous white. blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc and Roussanne tered popcorn, clove and vanilla accent plump yel- Rippling and rich yet freshly balanced, it’s a sturdy augmented by small proportions of Vermentino and low apple and pear in this lavish, full-bodied white. bottling built for the long haul. Drink through 2026. Viognier, it’s a juicy, refreshing sip to enjoy now A blend of 90% Viognier and 10% Roussanne, it’s Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —A.I. through 2024. Soilair Selection. —A.I. luscious and creamy, finishing on lingering notes abv: 14% Price: $320 abv: 13% Price: $15 of vanilla and sweet spice. Drink now–2025. Petit Pois. —A.I. Tardieu-Laurent 2016 Hermitage. Heady Domaine du Vistre 2018 Gladiateur abv: 14% Price: $25 93 notes of Bourbon barrel, caramel and spiced 88 (Costières de Nîmes). Whiffs of hazelnut nut accent white peach and apricot in this wine. and candied ginger accentuate juicy apple and pear Château Maucoil 2018 Côtes du Rhône Vil- Smoldering and perfumed, it’s prominently oaky in this blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Ver- 89 lages. Pert lemon and pear notes are sub- now but should balance out more elegantly by mentino. Full bodied and dry, it’s a concentrated, tle on the nose of this full-bodied blend of 50% 2021. This robust, textured wine should drink well spicy sip to enjoy now to 2024. Golden Vines. —A.I. Clairette and 50% Grenache Blanc but gain ripeness through 2026. Europvin USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15 and concentration on the palate. It’s a full-bodied, abv: 13.5% Price: $90 refreshingly mineral wine with a bristling pineapple Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Château des finish. Enjoy now–2024. Soilair Selection. —A.I. Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 La Belle De Mai 88 Sources Cuvée S (Costières de Nîmes). Brisk abv: 13.5% Price: $15 92 (Saint-Péray). A blend of 60% Roussane pineapple and grapefruit extend from nose to palate and 40% Marsanne, this is a mouthwatering white in this wine, edged by sun-dried and spicy Camille Cayran 2018 Blanc Passion (Côtes with sunny apple and pear flavors. It’s primary in hits of clove and smoke. While dry in style, it’s ripe 88 du Rhône Villages). While the subdued nose fruit tones but quite generous, persisting long on and hefty on the palate. Fresh mineral tones lend suggests dried herb and apple, the palate gains ripe- swirls of caramel, cinnamon and smoke. Lovely balance to the finish. It’s best enjoyed now through ness and concentration, offering juicier pear, pine- now it should hold well through 2023. Taub Family 2024. Savorian Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. apple and mango flavors. It’s a full-bodied, fruit- Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $10 forward white, with hints of anise on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Enjoy now–2023. Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. Château Saint-Louis la Perdrix 2017 Big abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Alain Voge 2015 Fleur de Crussol (Saint- 87 (Costières de Nîmes). A blend of 70% Gre- 91 Péray). Pleasantly toasty, woody notes of

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 cedar and sweet spice mingle into juicy yellow apple and bright, with loads of soft, persistent bubbles. Château Mourgues du Grès 2018 Fleur and pineapple in this wine. It’s rich and luxuriously Baron Francois Ltd. —A.I. 90 d’Eglantine Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). textured, augmented by swirls of salted caramel and abv: 8% Price: $NA Dusty mineral tones mingle into juicy strawberry a smoldering, smoky finish. Although it’s a bold, and raspberry flavors in this full-bodied but crisp embellished wine, it maintains freshness and vivac- Poulet et Fils NV Tradition Méthode Dio- rosé. A robust blend of 60% Grenache, 30% ity throughout. Citadel Trading. —A.I. 88 ise Ancestrale (Clairette de Die). Whiffs of Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, it drinks well beyond abv: 14% Price: $30 green florals and crisp apricot perfume this feather- the summer months and easily accompanies heart- light sparkling wine. Low in alcohol and delicately ier game and fowl dishes. David Bowler Wine. —A.I. Cellier des Chartreux 2018 Le Clan des Loups effervescent, it’s a refreshingly fruity, floral confec- abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 (Côtes du Rhône Village Saint-Gervais). White tion perfect for brunch or serving with fresh-fruit peach and citrus persist from nose to palate in this desserts. Kindred Vines. —A.I. Cellier des Chartreux 2018 Chevalier full-bodied blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne abv: 8% Price: $NA 89 d’Anthelme Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). This and Viognier. It’s perfumed and peachy, elevated by stately dry rosé offers penetrating raspberry and shades of dusty mineral, lavender and violet. Brisk Poulet et Fils NV Divine Tradition Méthode red-cherry flavors elevated by nuances of bramble acidity and a lingering mineral finish lend structure. 87 Dioise Ancestrale Rosé (Clairette de Die). Pale and garrigue. Full bodied and juicy in concentra- Best now–2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. pink and delicately fizzy, this juicy blend of Clairette, tion, it’s a solid rosé that can stand up to hearty abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Muscat and Gamay offers bright tangerine and red- dishes well past pool-party season. Fruit of the cherry flavors veiled by a lacy fringe of sweetness. Vines, Inc. —A.I. Domaine de Bréseyme 2017 Côtes du Rhône It’s an exuberantly fruity but light-footed treat best abv: 13.5% Price: $18 91 Brézème. This savory, hearty white offers enjoyed young. Kindred Vines. —A.I. pert apple and pear flavors marked by burnt cara- abv: 8% Price: $NA Château Mourgues du Grès 2018 Galets Rosé mel and gingersnap. It’s full bodied and creamy but 89 (Costières de Nîmes). Hints of earth and balanced by a crisp mineral edge. Although the wine dried herb are juxtaposed by juicy, concentrated drinks well now it should improve through 2024. CRÉMANT DE DIE dried cherry and strawberry in this bold blend of Vineyard Brands. —A.I. 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. abv: 14% Price: $49 Carod Freres NV Brut (Crémant de Die). D e ft The savory garrigue tones partner particularly well 90 and dancing on the palate, this brut-style with fowl or pork dishes and this should hold up blend of 80% Clairette, 15% Aligoté and 5% Mus- well as a year-round rosé. David Bowler Wine. —A.I. CLAIRETTE DE DIE cat offers cutting white peach and apricot flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $NA edged by crisp tangerine acidity. Made via the tradi- Monge Granon Vercheny NV Équinoxe tional method, it has tiny, persistent bubbles and a Guillaume Gonnet 2018 Le Rêveur Rosé 92 (Clairette de Die). Swathes of honeysuckle refreshing finish that make it an excellent everyday 88 (Côtes du Rhône). Notes of dried thyme and jasmine perfume crisp lychee and white melon sparkling wine. Advantage International. —A.I. and mint lend elegance to crisp red currant and in this light-footed, biodynamic sparkler produced abv: 12% Price: $20 raspberry in this dry, full-bodied rosé. Equal parts via méthode ancenstrale without dosage. Just a hint Grenache and Cinsault, the blend has concentrated sweet on the palate it’s keenly balanced in acidity. Poulet et Fils NV Méthode Traditionnelle fruit flavors and delicate herbal tones, making it a A decadent, fizzy sip, it’s akin to springtime in the 90 Brut (Crémant de Die). Zesty tangerine and year round choice. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. glass. USA Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. lemon aromas introduce this spry, citrusy sparkler. abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 8% Price: $NA Light-footed and persistently bubbly, it juxtaposes juicy lemon-lime acidity against a delicate veil of Carod Freres NV Jasmée (Clairette de Die). sweetness. This balanced, fresh-fruited sip would SOUTHERN FRANCE 90 Aromas of jasmine, lychee and peach per- serve as an ideal aperitif. Kindred Vines. —A.I. fume this buoyantly fizzy, foamy blend of Muscat abv: 11.5% Price: $NA RED WINES and Clairette. Made via méthode ancestrale, it’s feather-light in alcohol and body but gloriously SAINT-JOSEPH concentrated in peach and melon flavors. The fin- ROSÉS ish is just a touch sweet but invigorating. Advantage E. Guigal 2015 Saint-Joseph. Ripeness and International. —A.I. Alain Jaume et Fils 2018 Le Crétacé Rosé 94 purity are calibrated neatly in this rich but abv: 7% Price: $NA 91 (Tavel). Juicy, sun-kissed strawberries and elegant Syrah. Blackberry and blueberry flavors red cherries are bold and primary in this buoyant, are sundrenched but muted by shades of bramble Jaillance NV Cuvée Impériale Tradition fruity rosé. It’s intensely concentrated but main- and sage. A fresh acidic backbone and fine, persis- 89 (Clairette de Die). A Muscat-dominant sip tains an elegant mineral balance and a long, stony tent tannins lend verve. This stately wine should blended with a small proportion of Clairette, this finish. Offering both hedonism and structure, this improve through 2025 and hold longer still. Vintus méthode-ancestrale sparkling wine offers penetrat- rosé should drink well through at least 2021 Kysela LLC. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. ing notes of lychee, apricot and melon lifted by a Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 swathe of jasmine blossoms. It’s delicately sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 but effortlessly spry and balanced. A low-alcohol Cave de Tain 2015 Esprit de Granit (Saint-­ wine with wide appeal, it’s ideal for dessert or on a Delas Frères 2018 Saint-Esprit Rosé (Côtes du 93 Joseph). Traces of toast and cocoa, earth picnic. Baron Francois Ltd. —A.I. 91 Rhône). Invigorating notes of blood tangerine and animal mingle into blueberry and plum in this abv: 8% Price: $NA and fresh apricot introduce this fresh, fruity rosé. silky, medium-bodied Syrah. It’s concentrated and It’s a penetrating, full-bodied wine packed with cit- ripe but elegantly restrained too, finishing on fine, Jaillance NV Cuvée Impériale Tradition Rosé rus and red-cherry flavors along with a dusting of upright tannins and a bracing acidic edge. The wine 88 (Clairette de Die). While restrained and dried herbs and earth. This satisfying dry rosé can is ready now but should improve through 2025. mineral on the nose, the palate of this dainty, low- be enjoyed well past the summer months. Maisons Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. alcohol sparkler bursts with crisp raspberry and Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $55 blood-tangerine flavors. An unusual blend of red abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and white Muscat augmented by Gamay, it’s brisk

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Delas Frères 2016 Sainte-Épine (Saint-­ and char. Exuberant now in its youth, it’s concen- 92 Joseph). Layers of smoke and char mingle ARDÈCHE trated and complex enough to improve through into perfumed rose petal and black cherry in this 2030. T. Elenteny Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. full-bodied Syrah. Concentrated and ripe with pen- Chateau Les Amoureuses 2016 Terres Des abv: 15.2% Price: $50 etrating black-fruit flavors, it feels restrained and 92 Amoureuses Sublime (Ardèche). Ripe but tightly wound in its youth. It’s best to wait till 2022 restrained blueberry and blackberry mingle into Château Mont-Redon 2016 Abeille-Fabre but the wine should improve through 2030. Mai- granite, earth and caramel in this unusual blend 95 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Decadent layers of sons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Petit Verdot and blackberry and mulberry preserves are pierced by —A.I. Malbec. It’s opulent, full bodied and marked by smoke and toast in this unctuous, glossy red. It’s a abv: 14% Price: $78 prominent spice and smoke, it maintains blackberry warming, piquant sip marked by clove, cardamom vibrance throughout. French Gourment Import . and black pepper, but balanced freshly too. Tannins Tardieu-Laurent 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Saint- —A.I. are fine and feathery. Oak tones are a bit flashy in 92 Joseph). Sharp green herb and black-pepper abv: 15.5% Price: $35 youth but should meld beautifully through 2031. tones lend spice to crisp, concentrated black cherry Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. and cassis in this wine. A vibrant, freshly composed Chateau Les Amoureuses 2016 Le Liby abv: 14.5% Price: $51 Syrah, it’s framed by taut, persistent tannins. A bit 88 (Ardèche). This intensely ripe, ruddy tight in its youth the wine should meld and open wine wafts of sun-drenched blueberry, smoke and Crous Saint Martin 2017 Hommage a l’an beautifully through 2030. Europvin USA. —A.I. vanilla. A kitchen-sink blend of seven regional and 94 1879 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Piquant abv: 13% Price: $55 international grapes, it’s a hefty sip muted by hints whiffs of chocolate, cardamom and clove mingle of earth and peppery spice. The finish is ringed by into black cherry and plum in this Grenache-based fine tannins and a kiss of warmth. Drink now–2021. blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s profoundly ripe HERMITAGE French Gourment Import . —A.I. and concentrated, but shaded by earth and forest abv: 15% Price: $19 notes too. The palate is pliant, cushioned by soft, E. Guigal 2015 Hermitage. While unyield- furry tannins. This hedonistic wine is irresistible 96 ing and reserved in youth, this majestic Chateau Les Amoureuses 2016 Terres Des already but should also improve further through Syrah has a pulsating core of black plum and berry 88 Amoureuses Dandy (Ardèche). A blend 2030. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. flavors. Glimpses of sage, olive and black pepper of 62% Syrah, 28% Grenache and 10% Mourvè- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 peek through the midpalate before closing on firm, dre, this massive wine offers densely concentrated fine-grained tannins. Veins of tobacco, sweet spice blackberry and cherry flavors muted by anise and Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2015 Cuvée Excep- and chocolate linger throughout. Hold the wine till balsamic glaze. Voluminous and velvety, it finishes 94 tionnelle (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Inflec- 2022 at least, but it should reward cellaring for on finely edged, lingering tannins and is ready to tions of burnt sugar, char and smoke mingle into decades. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —A.I. drink now to 2022. French Gourment Import . —A.I. juicy strawberry and raspberry preserve in this lus- abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 15% Price: $22 cious, full-bodied red. A fruity, plummy sip, it wears its smoky caramel edges and fine, feathery tannins Cave de Tain 2015 Epsilon (Hermitage). elegantly. This hedonistic wine is ready now but 94 Bourbon, vanilla and clove mingle into pre- CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE should drink beautifully through 2030. David Mil- served plum and cherry compote in this voluptuous ligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Syrah. A decadent expression of Hermitage it could Domaine de la Solitude 2016 Réserve Secrète abv: 14.5% Price: $65 use some time to balance. Hold till 2022 at least—it 97 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This perfumed should improve through 2035 and maintain longer. gobsmacker offers all the unctuous, sun-drenched Famille Perrin 2017 Les Sinards Hand Picked Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. strawberry and cherry exuberance of Grenache jux- 94 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ Profoundly ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $560 taposed by the smoky, spicy nuances of Syrah. It’s a but pristine blackberry and plum are cutting and bold, fleshy wine but elegantly balanced too, lifted crisp in this full bodied but vibrant red. Deep min- Cave de Tain 2014 Nobles Rives (Hermit- by a spray of red-currant acidity and fine, velveteen eral tones as well as firm, angular tannins contrib- 93 age). While initially closed, this wine con- tannins. The finish offers a lingering note of burnt ute to its edgy style. It drinks well now but is struc- veys penetrating black cherry and mulberry with caramel. A stunner already the wine should improve tured enough to improve through 2027 and hold time and aeration. It’s intensely fruity but shaded through 2030 and hold further still. Dreyfus, Ashby further. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. by notes of peppery spice and earth. The finish & Co. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 is long, freshened by crisp acidity and a lingering abv: 15% Price: $165 glaze of balsamic. Hold till 2022—it should improve Alain Jaume et Fils 2017 Vieux Terron through 2030 and maintain longer still. Saranty Domaine du Pegau 2016 Cuvée Réservée 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ In this wine rustic Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I. 97 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Inflections of vio- whiffs of leather and fur along with veins of earth abv: 13.5% Price: $70 let and rose petal mingle into crushed earth and and mineral lend complexity to pristine black- dried mushroom in this deeply complex red. Black berry. Amid a lineup of juicy, fruit-powered peers, Jean-Luc Colombo 2016 Le Rouet Rouge (Her- cherry and black-currant flavors are profoundly ripe its savory, Old-World flair is quite appealing. Fine, 93 mitage). Hints of balsamic, smoke and char but muted by shades of leather, fur and garrigue. A feathery tannins make it approachable now but the lend savory spice to this crisply composed Syrah. nuanced, deeply satisfying wine, it offers both con- wine should improve through 2027 and hold fur- Moderately full bodied, it’s an elegant wine with centrated ripeness and old-world restraint. Hand ther still. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. penetrating blackberry flavor edged by fine-grained, Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $45 persistent tannins. A bit closed now it will continue abv: 14% Price: $115 to open and gain expressiveness through 2030. Brotte 2017 Les Hauts de Barville Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Château Gigognan 2016 Clos du Roi 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ For full review see abv: 13% Price: $85 95 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ Unctuous, per- page 7. Editors’ Choice. fumed black-currant and black-fig notes abound in abv: 14.5% Price: $35 this beautifully composed blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s profoundly sunny and ripe but Pont du Rhône 2017 Passion Terroirs elegant too, shaded by hints of dried thyme, anise 93 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).­ This voluminous

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 wine bursts with notes of spiced black-cherry com- tannins. Best enjoyed now–2024. Scoperta Import- Famille Perrin 2017 La Gille (Gigondas). In pote and violet candy. It’s rich and full but grace- ing Co. Inc. —A.I. 93 this wine hints of earth, crushed stone and ful too, limned by fine, feathery tannins and a hint abv: 15% Price: $40 restrained black cherry gain richness from nose to of graphite. Lovely already it should develop well palate. Zesty, concentrated black-fruit flavors are through 2027 and hold further. Tri-Vin Imports. Louis Bernard 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. backed by a firm strike of minerality and fiery, per- —A.I. 89 Hints of chocolate ganache and cinnamon sistent tannins. This stately wine should open and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 mingle into strawberry preserves on the nose and improve now through 2030. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. palate of this voluminous but softly structured abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Brotte 2017 Domaine Barville (Châteauneuf- blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah. It’s fleshy 92 du-Pape). Well priced for a consistently and open knit, with a finish framed by fine, feathery Famille Quiot 2015 Chateau du Trignon high-quality wine, this opulent blend of Syrah, Gre- tannins. Best enjoyed now–2024. Boisset Collec- 91 (Gigondas). A blend of Grenache, Syrah nache and Mourvèdre is packed with pristine black tion. —A.I. and Mourvèdre, this is a bold red packed with cherry and plum flavors shaded by earth, smoke and abv: 15% Price: $47 ripe cassis and mulberry flavors. It’s concentrated black pepper. Penetrating in fruit and edged by fine- and spicy, accented by traces of clove and pepper. grained, persistent tannins, it’s ready to drink now Louis Bernard 2017 Domaine la Crau des A hint of green herbs lend freshness to the finish. but should hold well through 2027. Monsieur Tou- 89 Papes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Cardamom, Best enjoyed now–2025. David Milligan Selections. ton Selection Ltd. —A.I. cinnamon and cocoa spice this plump, open-knit —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $40 blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Full bod- abv: 15% Price: $34 ied on the palate, it’s a juicy, immediately approach- Domaine Duclaux 2013 Châteauneuf-du- able sip full of fleshy strawberry and plum flavors. Aromanes 2015 Sculpté par le Vent (Gigo- 92 Pape. Profoundly ripe but complex too, this Tannins are soft and fine grained. Best enjoyed 89 ndas). Inviting aromas of burnt chocolate Grenache-based blend offers juicy red cherry and now–2024. Boisset Collection. —A.I. and licorice intensify ripe black cherry and plum dried-strawberry flavors shaded by smoked nut, abv: 14.5% Price: $46 flavors in this full-bodied red. It’s a plush, lus- earth and dried leaves. It’s plush and creamy on ciously fruit-forward wine that fills the palate with the palate but lifted by a kick of red-currant acid- a yielding fringe of fine, easy tannins. Best enjoyed ity on midpalate. The moderately long finish lingers GIGONDAS now–2024. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.I. on fine, ripe tannins and a swirl of caramel. Enjoy abv: 14.5% Price: $29 now–2024. David Milligan Selections. —A.I. Château de Saint-Cosme 2017 Hominis Fides abv: 14% Price: $47 97 (Gigondas). Lavishly ripe, penetrating black CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES cherry and red plum are gobsmacking in this wine, Halos de Jupiter 2016 Adrastée (Châ- intensified by tangs of crushed stone and vibrant PLAN DE DIEU 92 teauneuf-du-Pape). Notes of mulberry acidity. It’s pristine in fruit character yet accented syrup and roasted plums are ripe and ruddy in this by judicious notes of toast, nut and spice. A deca- Camille Cayran 2017 La Réserve (Côtes du plush, concentrated Grenache. It’s full throttled and dent but firmly structured wine, it has decades of 90 Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu). Traces of rich, an undulating sip peppered by hints of cinna- fine drinking ahead. Craft + Estate–Winebow.Edi - burnt cinnamon, clove and earth introduce this sul- mon, anise and vanilla. The long finish is cushioned tors’ Choice. —A.I. try blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Carignan. The by soft, feathery tannins. Ready now, it should show abv: 15.5% Price: $138 palate is plummy, bursting with rich black plum and best through 2026. Saranty Imports. —A.I. cherry flavors framed by fine, integrated tannins. abv: 15% Price: $60 Château de Saint-Cosme 2017 Le Claux (Gigo- Enjoy this spicy, immediately approachable wine 97 ndas). Despite its massive body, this wine now through 2023. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Le Parvis (Châ- suggests a thrilling angularity throughout. Black- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 90 teauneuf-du-Pape). Fleshy notes of red- berry and raspberry flavors are unctuous but finely plum preserve and dried strawberries are spiced cut by shards of acidity and a vital mineral tone. La Cave les Coteaux du Rhône 2017 Côtes with anise and and cinnamon in this rich, lavishly Judicious veins of nut, smoke and vanilla integrate 89 du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu. Intensely textured red. A Grenache-dominant blend aug- into a long, penetrating palate. The wine drinks well ripe and concentrated mulberry, fig and blueberry mented by small proportions of Syrah and Mourvè- now but is likely to improve through 2037. Craft + flavors make this a bold blend of Grenache and dre, it offers intensely juicy red-fruit flavor layered Estate–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Mourvèdre, but the wine is elegantly muted too, in ripe, feathery tannins. Best enjoyed now–2024. abv: 16% Price: $138 shaded by hints of cacao powder and earth. The Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. sightly warming finish is accentuated by a fiery ring abv: 15.5% Price: $52 Crous Saint Martin 2017 Les Epaliers (Gigo- of tannins. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. 94 ndas). This pretty, perfumed wine wafts of abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Bernard Magrez 2016 La Destinée De Clé- rose petals and is packed with pristine black plum 89 ment V (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Black- and blackberry flavors. It’s a penetrating, primary Cellier des Dauphins 2017 Côtes du Rhône cherry jam and roasted plums are edged by notes of sip with a silky cling on the palate. Hints of char 88 Villages Plan de Dieu. Elegant restraint and char and caramel in this dense, mouthfilling wine. and earth linger on the finish. It drinks beauti- mineral freshness persist throughout this otherwise Spicy hits of anise and pepper, as well as fine, vel- fully already but should develop greater depth well bold, voluminous blend of Grenache, Syrah and vety tannins contribute to its plush, warming feel. through 2030. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. Mourvèdre. Blackberry and plum flavors are ripe This soft, rounded sip should drink best through abv: 14.5% Price: $40 but zesty in concentration. Fine, persistent tannins 2023. House of Burgundy. —A.I. linger on the finish. It’s best enjoyed young. Mon- abv: 15% Price: $50 Halos de Jupiter 2017 Gigondas. Succulent sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. 94 black plum and mulberry are accented by abv: 15% Price: $18 Domaine de l’Arnesque 2017 Châteauneuf- raspberry, tea leaf and anise perfume in this juicy, 89 du-Pape). This is a plush, open-knit blend mouthfilling red. It’s gorgeously primary now but of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvè- should develop spicy, smoky complexities with dre. Rich and rounded, it offers a moderately high time. Fine tannins lend upright structure. Enjoy concentration of preserved black plum and cherry now–2030. Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. flavors edged by soft, sunny acidity and velveteen abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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BUYINGGUIDE

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES tannins. Enjoy this immediately approachable wine decadently fruity wine but offers widespread and now through 2024. Soilair Selection. —A.I. immediate appeal. The finish is marked by very fine, VALRÉAS abv: 14.5% Price: $25 feathery tannins. MHW, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine Mas de Sainte Croix 2015 Quintes- Clos Saint Michel 2017 Les (Côtes 91 sence (Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas). 89 du Rhône Villages). Whiffs of dried thyme, NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Romain Duver- Despite bold alcohol and volume, grip and vigor wild mint and crushed earth lend a savory tone to 89 nay (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Ripe but mark this sultry blend of Grenache, Syrah and sunny blackberry and plum in this appropriately restrained blackberries and cherries are shaded by Mourvèdre. It’s packed with flavors of plum pre- named blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. hints of dark mineral and bramble in this elegant, serves and cassis, but also spicy tones of dark Voluminous and juicy, it’s an approachably fruity earthen red. While full bodied and concentrated chocolate and char. This powerful wine needs some wine but structured by firm, gripping tannins. Best in black-fruit flavors, it’s refreshingly brisk and time to meld. It’s best opened from 2022. Tri-Vin enjoyed now–2024. Total Wine & More. —A.I. finishes on gripping sandpaper tannins. Best now– Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 2024. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Dauvergne & Ranvier 2017 Grand Vin (Côtes Domaine Mas de Sainte Croix 2017 Passion 89 du Rhône Villages). While massive in vol- Château de la Gardine 2017 Côtes du Rhône 90 d’une Terre (Côtes du Rhône Villages Val- ume and alcohol, this Grenache-Syrah blend offers 88 Villages. Fruity, forward notes of grape jelly réas). Despite its massive body and alcohol, this fresh black cherry and plum flavors offset by cutting and plum are edged by a hint of granite in this juicy luscious blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Mourvè- strikes of black-currant acidity. It’s unctous and blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah. It’s not a dre maintains delightfully crisp blackberry flavors forward but finishes on a fine, firm tannins and a complex wine but is effortlessly appealing. The fin- accented by hints of rose, violet and anise. It’s a refreshing mineral edge. Enjoy now–2024. Massa- ish is brisk and marked by fine, integrated tannins. rich, penetrating wine with silky, integrated tan- nois Imports. —A.I. Best now–2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. nins cushioning the finish. Drink now–2024. Tri- abv: 15% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Vin Imports. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $25 Domaine la Remejeanne 2017 Les Arbous- Chateau Saint Nabor 2017 Domaine des San- 89 iers (Côtes du Rhône Villages). A blend of 88 tonilles (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Delicate Domaine Mas de Sainte Croix 2017 Ten- equal parts Grenache and Syrah, this plummy red veins of dried thyme and wild mint lend savory, 90 dresse d’un Climat Rhône-style Red Blend offers ripe black plum and cherry flavors accented earthen tones to crisp blackberry and plum in this (Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas). Crisp blackberry by licorice and dried herbs. It’s rounded but freshly wine. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and and plum flavors are edged by earthen nuances of balanced and finishes on fine, sandpaper tannins. Mourvèdre, it’s moderately concentrated but struc- bramble and forest floor in this full-bodied blend of Enjoy now–2024. Carte Blanche. —A.I. tured by firm, gripping tannins. It’s best enjoyed 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah. It’s juicy but briskly abv: 14% Price: $20 young. Marquee Selections. —A.I. concentrated, framed by ripe, integrated tannins. abv: 14% Price: $16 Enjoy this mouthfilling but easy-quaffing red while Domaine la Remejeanne 2017 Les Genévri- it’s young. Tri-Vin Imports. —A.I. 89 ers (Côtes du Rhône Villages). A shade riper Louis Bernard 2018 Côtes du Rhône Villages. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 and plumper than the producer’s Les Arbousiers 88 Piquant notes of anise and cardamom lend bottling, this blend of 90% Grenache and 10% spice to juicy black plum and blackberry flavors Syrah offers flavors of blueberry and plum pre- in this wine. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES serves shaded by cinnamon and anise. More hedo- Syrah, it’s an accessibly fresh, fruity wine edged by nistic than complex, it’s an immediately approach- fine, glossy tannins. It’s best enjoyed young. Boisset Pascal Chalon 2017 La Grande Ourse (Côtes able sip accentuated by soft, feathery tannins. Carte Collection. —A.I. 92 du Rhône Villages). Whispers of rose petal Blanche. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 and crisp black plum introduce this perfumed blend abv: 14% Price: $20 of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. It’s full bodied Louis Bernard 2017 Côtes du Rhône Villages. and plush but pristine in fruit character. The long Guillaume Gonnet 2017 Le Hardi (Côtes du 88 Tart blackberries and plums are edged finish is lifted by kisses of blossom and bramble 89 Rhône Villages). Whiffs of earth, fur and by savory notes of garrigue and earth in this full- and landing on fine, integrated tannins. It’s a lovely garrigue lend savory counterpoints to pristine bodied blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. It’s wine to enjoy now through 2024. Wine Mc2. Edi- blackberry and cherry in this medium-bodied blend elegant and restrained, finishing on a strike of bris- tors’ Choice. —A.I. of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. It’s ripe but not tling black-currant acidity. Best enjoyed now–2024. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 heavy or dense, enlivened by a brisk mineral finish Boisset Collection. —A.I. and fine tannins. Misa Imports.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Château La Nerthe 2017 Les Cassagnes abv: 13.5% Price: $13 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This elegant, Cellier des Dauphins 2017 Puyméras (Côtes easy-drinking blend of Grenache, Syrah and La Bastide Saint Dominique 2017 Côtes du 87 du Rhône Villages). Black cherry and plum Mourvèdre offers succulent blackberry flavor -off 89 Rhône Villages. There’s an elegant restraint flavors are concentrated in this full-bodied, juicy set by a cool granitic tone. Supple on the palate to crisp blackberry and black cherry flavors in this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s full and framed by fine, soft tannins, it’s immediately full-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and bodied and mouthfilling, held upright by a firm approachable but should hold well through 2024. Mourvèdre. It’s fresh and fruity but refreshingly grip of tannins and a subtly granitic finish. It’s best Kobrand. —A.I. mineral on the finish. Best enjoyed now–2024. enjoyed young. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Golden State Wine Co. —A.I. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Château Maucoil 2017 Cuvée 1895 (Côtes 90 du Rhône Villages). Made from 100% Gre- Maison François-Xavier Nicolas 2017 Réserve Château d’Aigueville 2017 Côtes du Rhône nache, this penetrating, plump wine fills the palate 89 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Traces of sweet 87 Villages. Crisp black cherry and plum flavors with sun-drenched blueberry and mulberry flavors. spice accentuate plummy blueberry and blackberry are fresh and forward in this full-bodied, juicy Gre- It’s a soft, richly textured red accented by traces flavors in this plush blend of Grenache, Syrah, of cinnamon and clove and framed by soft, pliant Mourvèdre and Carignan. It’s a straightforward,

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 nache blend. A forward sip, it finishes with a fierce Cellier des Terres Blanches 2017 Intuition Brotte 2018 Esprit Barville (Côtes du Rhône). grip of tannins. Best now–2023. Wegmann. —A.I. 90 (Côtes du Rhône). A hit of toasted anise 89 An exceptional value for such an accessible abv: 15% Price: $NA lends spice and warmth to concentrated flavors but elegant wine, this full-bodied red offers plummy of cassis and black-plum preserves in this rich, black-cherry and berry flavors spiked by licorice Domaine de Lumian 2017 Vieilles Vignes rounded red blend. Full bodied and plump in and cut minerals. Juicy yet vibrant it finishes on 87 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Hints of men- mouthfeel, it finishes on a peppery kick of tannins. very fine, integrated tannins. Monsieur Touton thol accent high-toned black cherry and blackberry Best enjoyed now–2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. in this crisply concentrated red. Made from 60% —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $13 Syrah and 40% Grenache, it’s a full bodied but zesty abv: 14% Price: $24 wine edged by fine-grained, easy tannins that’s best Cellier des Dauphins 2018 Les Dauphins enjoyed young. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Château de Ségriès 2016 Clos Jean Alesi 89 Cuvée Spéciale (Côtes du Rhône). Initial abv: 14% Price: $20 90 (Côtes du Rhône). This plush, full-bodied whiffs of crisp black cherry and berry seem to gain wine offers unctuous blueberry and blackberry fla- ripeness and concentration on the palate of this Domaine de Montine 2017 Caprices (Côtes vors peppered by warming tones of cinnamon, dried rich Grenache-Syrah blend. Plump and effortlessly 87 du Rhône Villages). Zesty black currant and ginger and clove. It’s a lavish sip that lingers on fruity, it’s an immediately approachable sip that plum are refreshing but subdued in this medium- fine, smooth tannins. Ready now the wine should finishes on fine, soft tannins and a delicate swirl of bodied blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. It’s improve through 2024. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. caramel. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. a freshly composed wine with moderate concentra- abv: 15% Price: $34 —A.I. tion. The finish is marked by firm, fine tannins. Best abv: 14% Price: $13 enjoyed young. Planet Wine. —A.I. Château Gigognan 2018 Côtes du Rhône. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 90 Roasted plum and grape-jelly notes are Cellier des Dauphins 2018 Reserve (Côtes nuanced by hints of sun-dried garrigue and black 89 du Rhône). A blend of 60% Grenache and pepper in this opulent, spicy red. A blend of Syrah, 40% Syrah, this plump, perfumed red entices with CÔTES DU RHÔNE Grenache and Mourvèdre, it’s an unabashedly juicy, aromas of pristine blackberry accented by fresh beet fruity sip but rich and satisfying through a long fin- root and herb. It’s densely fruity and voluminous in Château de Saint-Cosme 2017 Les Deux ish. Fine-grained, feathery tannins accentuate the mouthfeel but lifted by a touch of minerality. Best 92 Albion (Côtes du Rhône). An elevated Côtes immediate appeal. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.I. now–2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. du Rhône, this blend of five grape varieties is abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $15 sourced from the communes of Plan de Dieu, Saint Maurice and Cairanne. Packed with ripe black- Chateau Les Amoureuses 2017 La Barbare Château Courac 2016 Côtes du Rhône. While berry and plum flavors it also offers elegant notes 90 (Côtes du Rhône). Crisp blackberries and 89 the nose is a bit demure, zingy black-cherry of bramble, sage and violet. Lively and perfumed, elegant graphite tones abound in this blend of 85% and blueberry flavors are vibrant on the palate of the wine is balanced by crisp acidity and very fine, Syrah and 15% Grenache. Full bodied and plump it this juicy red wine. Plush and fruity, it has a rich, smooth tannins. Lovely now it should improve has smoke and verve too. The finish is silky. Best voluminous midpalate anchored by firm, persistent through 2027. Craft + Estate–Winebow.Editors’ now–2024. French Gourment Import . —A.I. tannins. The wine is best enjoyed in its youth, now Choice. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $20 through 2022. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. abv: 15.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $15 Château Mont-Redon 2017 Réserve Abeille- Domaine Rouge Garance 2018 Feuille de 90 Fabre (Côtes du Rhône). Pretty violet per- Domaine Clavel 2017 Régulus (Côtes du 92 Garance (Côtes du Rhône). Layers of violet fume accents pristine but ripe black-plum flavor 89 Rhône). A forward, juicy blend of Grenache, and rose petal perfume ripe black plum and cherry in this concentrated but spirited red. Full bodied Syrah and Marselan, this full-bodied sip offers in this over-achieving Côtes du Rhône. It’s full bod- and lusciously textured it maintains a fresh mineral unctuous flavors of preserved blackberry and rasp- ied and concentrated but silken and deft, balanced midpalate. The moderately long finish lingers on berry edged by candied licorice and vanilla. A plush, by a fresh cut of minerals on the midpalate and fine, very fine but persistent tannins. Frederick Wildman immediately drinkable wine, it finishes on soft, persistent tannins. Lovely already the wine should & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. feathery tannins. Enjoy it young. DHI Selections. hold through 2025. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $15 —A.I. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Domaine de la Mordorée 2018 La Dame 90 Rousse (Côtes du Rhône). Flavors of roasted Halos de Jupiter 2017 Côtes du Rhône. Bright Château de Saint-Cosme 2018 Côtes du Rhône. plum and black-cherry preserve mingle into burnt 89 cherry and strawberry notes are forward 91 Pristine black cherry and raspbery flavors are caramel and cacao in this velvety blend of Grenache, and inviting on the nose and palate of this friendly accented by hints of green herbs and bramble in this Syrah and Carignan. It’s a satisfying, elevated Côtes red. It’s juicy and quite quaffable, but hints of full-bodied but invigorating red. It’s delightfully du Rhône with a moderately long finishes that lin- savory dried herb and earth lend elegance. It’s ready easy drinking but nuanced and peppery. Ripe, inte- gers on soft, smooth tannins. Kysela Père et Fils. to drink now through 2022. Saranty Imports. —A.I. grated tannins linger elegantly through a long finish. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $16 Enjoy now–2024. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Les Abeilles de M. Chapoutier 2018 Belleruche (Côtes du 89 Colombo (Côtes du Rhône). For full review Tardieu-Laurent 2016 Guy Louis (Côtes du 90 Rhône). In this wine, hints of toasted cara- see page 17. Best Buy. 91 Rhône). Blackberry and mulberry notes gain mel and licorice lend spice to intensely ripe black- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ripeness and concentration from nose to palate in berry and cassis. Voluptuous and creamy on the this wine. It’s intensely ripe and juicy, but elegant palate, it’s balanced by fresh acidity and a peppery Père Anselme 2018 La Fiole (Côtes du too, balancing concentrated fruit against crushed fringe of tannins on the finish. Best now–2023. Ter- 89 Rhône). Savory strikes of hazelnut and stone and granite. The finish is long, persisting on lato Wines International. —A.I. clove meld into luscious black plum and mulberry fine, upright tannins. Europvin USA. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 in this full-bodied, open-knit red. Approachably abv: 14.5% Price: $33 fruit forward it’s surprisingly elegant too, lingering on delicate touches of earth and crushed mineral.

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BUYINGGUIDE

It’s a bang-for-your-buck wine with wide appeal. and fine, filigreed tannins. Best enjoyed now–2021. Blackberry and raspberry flavors are concentrated Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. David Milligan Selections. —A.I. but crisp, framed by fine tannins and a lingering abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $15 mineral finish. Enjoy this wine now through 2025. The Wine House. —A.I. Pont de Nyons 2017 Red Rhône Wine (Côtes abv: 13.5% Price: $20 89 du Rhône). This easy-drinking yet distinctly COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES mineral red offers plush black-plum and mulberry Château d’Or et de Gueules 2017 Trassegum flavors offset by notes of earth and forest floor. An Château d’Or et de Gueules 2017 Qu’es aQou 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Swathes of fresh green elevated bargain find, it’s a sophisticated, fruity sip 93 (Costières de Nîmes). A blend of 90% Cari- herb and menthol lend invigorating freshness to wrapped in fine, soft tannins. Enjoy now–2023 HB gnan—sourced from precious 80-year old vines— crisp black cherry and raspberry in this blend of Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —A.I. and 10% Syrah, the Qu’es aQou is consistently Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. It’s full bodied abv: 13.5% Price: $13 one of this producer’s best bottlings. It’s a complex and mouthfilling but vibrantly balanced. The finish wine offering penetrating blackberry flavor marked is marked by a bite of cassis and fine, sandpapery Sélection Laurence Féraud 2016 Côtes du by dazzling shades of leather, black pepper and fur. tannins. It drinks well now but should hold through 89 Rhône. Blackberry and cherry flavors take Voluptuous yet elegant and nuanced, it’s a beautiful 2027. The Wine House. —A.I. center stage in this fruity, full-bodied red. Its fresh, wine already but should improve through 2027. The abv: 14% Price: $25 primary style is approachable but anchored by fine, Wine House. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. lingering tannins and pleasant twists of bitter sage abv: 14% Price: $30 Château Guiot 2017 Costières de Nîmes. Crisp and earth. Ready now the wine should hold through 91 black plum and cherry notes gain ripeness 2022. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. Domaine de Poulvarel 2017 Les Perrottes and concentration from nose to finish in this full- abv: 14% Price: $16 93 (Costières de Nîmes). Enticing notes of bodied but freshly balanced blend of Grenache and violet, anise and espresso introduce this hedonis- Syrah. Unoaked and luminous in freshness, it offers Alain Jaume et Fils 2017 Réserve Grand tic blend of 35% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% zesty black-fruit flavors accented by crisp mineral 88 Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). Bright blackberry Carignan. It’s a luscious, sun-kissed wine marked tones and fine, persistent tannins. It’s a lovely wine and red cherry extend from nose to palate in this by ambitious streaks of spice, vanilla and smoke, to enjoy now through 2025. Misa Imports. —A.I. very fresh, primary red. Easy drinking in style, it’s but elegantly balanced by fine, framing tannins and abv: 13.5% Price: $9 a juicy, full-bodied wine accented by burnt caramel a fresh mineral finish. A bit oaky in its youth, the and fine-grained tannins. A dependable bistro-type wine should balance neatly through 2027. BPW Château Guiot 2017 Numa (Costières de wine, it should drink well through 2022. Kysela Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 91 Nîmes). Whiffs of sun-dried thyme and euca- Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 lyptus accent intensely ripe cassis and mulberry abv: 14.5% Price: $15 in this glossy, concentrated wine. A blend of 80% Mas des Bressades 2017 Quintessence Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre, it’s luscious and fruit Cellier des Chartreux 2017 Chevalier 93 (Costières de Nîmes). Invigorating whiffs forward yet nuanced by lingering veins of violet 88 d’Anthelme (Côtes du Rhône). A hint of of eucalyptus and fresh garrigue pepper ripe, rich candy and bramble. Persistent but neatly inte- charred garrigue lends smokiness to plump but blackberry and cassis in this opulent blend of 98% grated tannins frame the finish. It drinks beauti- poised blackberry and black-cherry flavors in this Grenache and 2% Syrah. A glossy, powerfully fruity fully already but should hold through 2025. Misa luscious wine. A fruit-forward sip, it balances wine it maintains a purity and transparency of fruit. Imports. —A.I. pertly on the midpalate. Enjoy this easy-drinking Firm, penetrating tannins frame a long finish. Gor- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 wine now through 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. geous in its youth the wine will likely hold well —A.I. through 2027. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. Edi- Château L’Ermitage 2017 Edonist (Costières abv: 14% Price: $18 tors’ Choice. —A.I. 91 de Nîmes). Piquant strikes of clove, char and abv: 15% Price: $25 vanilla accent luscious cassis in this blend of 66% Les Vignerons du Castelas 2017 Le Monarque Syrah and 34% Mourvèdre. Heady in spice and 88 (Côtes du Rhône). While the nose is sub- Château d’Or et de Gueules 2017 La Bolida voluptuously textured, it’s an appropriately named dued, plush black cherry and cassis flavors are rich 92 (Costières de Nîmes). Old-vine Mourvèdre is wine with a flashy vanilla finish. Enjoy now–2030. and concentrated in this blend of 60% Syrah and supplemented by 10% Grenache in this rich, power- Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. 40% Grenache. Unoaked in style, it’s a unadulter- ful red. Aged in French oak for 18 months, it’s a lav- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ated, fruity sip accented by subtle notes of black ish wine packed with sun-drenched blueberry and pepper and a lingering mineral crush. Enjoy young. mulberry flavors and heady accents of toast, vanilla Château Mourgues du Grès 2018 Galets La Ville Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. and coconut. Ripe tannins accentuate its plush 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Fresh, cutting black- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 style. Drink now–2027. The Wine House. —A.I. berry and plum are edged by fragrant notes of violet abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and garrigue in this Syrah-dominant blend. While Demazet Vignobles 2016 Domaine des Mas- full bodied and opulent, it’s a fruity, elegant wine 87 carons (Côtes du Rhône). Crisp blackberry Mas des Bressades 2017 Cuvée Excellence with a bold, peppery finish. Lovely now it should and plum flavors are bright and friendly in this full- 92 (Costières de Nîmes). Heady notes of coco- hold well through 2025. David Bowler Wine. —A.I. bodied but freshly concentrated wine. Its fruit pro- nut, clove and cherry cola spice this gobsmacker abv: 14% Price: $15 file is straightforward but pristine, lingering on fine, of Syrah augmented by just 2% of Grenache. It’s integrated tannins. It’s ready to drink now. Matthew an intensely extracted, massive wine but pristine Château Saint-Louis la Perdrix 2017 Le Fla- Ackland Selections, Inc. . —A.I. in fruit quality and anchored by firm, fine tannins. 91 con (Costières de Nîmes). Heady whiffs of abv: 14% Price: $16 This bold, hedonistic sip should hold well through coconut and clove mingle into succulent blueberry 2027. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. and blackberry in this bold Syrah-based blend Famille Quiot 2017 Chateau du Trignon (Côtes abv: 14.5% Price: $20 augmented by Grenache and Carignan. Luscious 87 du Rhône). Dried sour cherry and raspberry and creamy on the palate, it’s packed with densely aromas perfume this freshly concentrated wine. It’s Château d’Or et de Gueules 2017 Les Cimels extracted black-fruit flavors peppered by hints of a lively, approachable sip anchored by crisp red- 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Hints of brambly ber- anise and cinnamon. A bit flashy in its youth and fruit flavors. The finish is edged by a touch of smoke ries and peppery herbs point to bold doses of 60% Syrah and 30% Carignan in this invigorating red.

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 marked by firm, gripping tannins, it should meld Château L’Ermitage 2018 Epicuria (Costières spry tone throughout. It’s an easy-drinking sip best through 2027. Spirit of St. Louis Importing. —A.I. 90 de Nîmes). Made from 100% Mourvèdre, enjoyed young. Spirit of St. Louis Importing. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA this is a joyfully juicy sip packed with black cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and plum flavors. It’s forward and unctuously fruity, Domaine de Poulvarel 2017 Les Domaines shaded by hints of menthol, tobacco and bramble. Clos des Centenaires 2017 Les Centenaires 91 (Costières de Nîmes). A pleasant bite of The finish is marked by firm, gripping tannins. Best 89 (Costières de Nîmes). Crisp blackberry and dried thyme lends herbaceousness to concentrated enjoyed now–2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. cherry notes sing in this delightfully quaffable red. blackberry and cassis in this blend of equal parts abv: 14% Price: $NA It’s full bodied and briskly concentrated but zesty Grenache and Syrah. Luscious and ample, the palate and thirst quenching. The finish is tightened by a is gleefully fruity and forward. Ripe but persistent Château L’Ermitage 2017 Sainte-Cécile firm grip of tannins. Ready now, the wine should tannins linger on the finish. It drinks well now but 90 (Costières de Nîmes). High-toned notes of hold through 2024. Jack Edwards Collection. —A.I. will hold through 2025. BPW Merchants. —A.I. crème de cassis and blackberry cordial provide sul- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $22 try introductions to this plush, intensely concen- trated red. A spicy blend of 45% Mourvèdre, 45% Vignerons Propriétés Associés 2017 Château Domaine de Poulvarel 2017 Les Grès (Costières Syrah and 10% Grenache, it juxtaposes penetrating 89 de Peyguerol (Costières de Nîmes). Herba- 91 de Nîmes). Whispers of eucalyptus, bramble black-fruit flavors against invigorating acidity and ceous notes of earth and bramble are juxtaposed by and graphite persist from nose to finish, lending a finish lined by soft, glossy tannins. Enjoy now– plush blueberry and black cherry in this lusciously nuance to succulent black cherry and plum flavors 2027. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. textured blend of Grenache and Syrah. It’s juicy and in this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $20 approachable in style but pert acidity and vibrant plush and juicy but anchored by ripe, persistent fruit tones lend elegance. The wine is ready to drink tannins and an invigorating herbal finish. The wine Domaine Galus 2018 Galus (Costières de now through 2023. Steep Hill Importing. —A.I. drinks well already but should hold through 2025. 90 Nîmes). Hints of grilled meat and herbes de abv: 13.5% Price: $NA BPW Merchants. —A.I. Provence lend enticingly savory tones to rich cas- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 sis and mulberry in this blend of Syrah, Grenache Vignoble François Boyer 2018 Costières de and Carignan. Succulent and mouthfilling the wine 89 Nîmes. Whiffs of grilled meat, M. Chapoutier 2017 La Ciboise (Costières de is also briskly balanced and edged by fine, peppery and pepper amplify plump flavors of blueberry and 91 Nîmes). Notes of crisp raspberry, bramble tannins. It’s best enjoyed young. Wine Mc2. —A.I. crème de cassis in this distinctly southern Syrah- and crushed stone introduce this full-bodied yet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 dominant blend. It’s decadent in concentration but invigorating red. Blackberry and mulberry flavors fresh in fruit. Crisp acidity and firm, fine tannins are juicy yet vital, edged by hints of mineral and a Mas Carlot 2017 Générations (Costières de lend structure to the finish. Best enjoyed now– zesty midpalate. Peppery, fine tannins linger on the 90 Nîmes). While this wine is initially earthen 2024. Soilair Selection. —A.I. finish. This lovely sip is ready now but should hold and closed, time and aeration coax out elegant black- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 through 2023. Terlato Wines International. —A.I. berry and cassis on the nose of this robust blend of abv: 14% Price: $20 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. It’s Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Château des full bodied and densely concentrated but bristling 89 Sources (Costières de Nîmes). Plush and Mas Carlot 2017 Château de Carlot (Costières too, shaded by mineral, crushed earth and a linger- concentrated, this sun-drenched, Syrah-dominant 91 de Nîmes). Spicy tones of cinnamon and ing spray of garrigue. Firm tannins grip the finish. blend offers loads of black-cherry flavor spiked by black-cherry cola accent richly extracted black Allow some aeration time but it’s ready now till hints of anise, clove and smoke. It’s not a deeply berry and cassis in this unctuous blend of 85% 2025. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. complex wine but the unctuous fruit and silken Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. In youth it’s a brood- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 palate offer widespread appeal. Best now–2024. ing, massive wine edged by bold, dense tannins but Savorian Inc. —A.I. should meld and improve through 2027. Domaine Vignerons Propriétés Associés 2017 Saveurs abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. 90 du Temps (Costières de Nîmes). Ripe abv: 13% Price: $20 blackberry and cassis flavors are concentrated yet Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Colnem pristine in this lavish, full-bodied red. A creamy, 89 (Costières de Nîmes). Swathes of dried sage Mas Carlot 2017 Les Enfants Terribles rounded blend of Grenache and Syrah, it pulsates and thyme lend brambly, herbaceous character to 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Spicy notes of clove with black-fruit flavors yet maintains crisp acid- pristinely ripe cassis and black plum in this blend of and anise accent high-toned blueberry and plum ity and mineral freshness throughout. Enjoy now– 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. Plush and creamy in this dense, lusciously concentrated blend of 2023. Soilair Selection. Best Buy. —A.I. on the palate, it’s framed by firm, gripping tannins. 60% Mourvèdre and 40% Syrah. It’s flamboyant abv: 14% Price: $14 Best enjoyed now–2024. Savorian Inc. —A.I. and plush but peppery and piquant too. The finish abv: 13.5% Price: $NA is long, marked by bold, persistent tannins. Ready Château Beaubois 2017 Confidence now, the wine should drink well through 2027. 89 (Costières de Nîmes). While the nose is Bonpas 2018 Hauts de Bonpas (Costières de Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. restrained and smoky, buoyant blackberry and red- 88 Nîmes). Cheery notes of blackberry candy abv: 14% Price: $20 plum flavors abound in this plush Grenache aug- are edged by bramble and violet in this full-bodied mented by 10% Syrah. The luscious black fruits are red. Brisk acidity lends a pristine, cutting edge to Mas des Bressades 2017 Cuvée Tradition open knit and accessible, edged by fine, smooth tan- ripe, juicy black-fruit flavors. The finish lingers on 91 (Costières de Nîmes). Intense, primary aro- nins and a cling of cherry preserves. Best enjoyed a refreshing herbal tone. It’s best enjoyed young. mas of crème de cassis and fresh green herbs per- now–2024. Dionysus Imports Inc. —A.I. Boisset Collection. —A.I. fume this juicy, voluminous red. A blend of 60% abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $NA Grenache and 40% Syrah, it’s a plummy crowd pleaser balanced by a bold, mineral finish. Tannins Château Saint-Louis la Perdrix 2018 Big Château d’Or et de Gueules 2017 Castel Noù are quite firm now but should meld nicely through 89 (Costières de Nîmes). Whispers of clove and 88 (Costières de Nîmes). Profoundly ripe, pri- 2027. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —A.I. cinnamon lend spice to plush blueberry and plum mary black plum and cherry flavors are muted by abv: 14.5% Price: $15 flavors in this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cari- savory notes of earth, peppery spice and soy sauce gnan. Rich and concentrated it maintains a fresh, in this barrel-aged blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. It’s plush and rounded on the palate,

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BUYINGGUIDE edged by ripe, integrated tannins. Drink now–2023. gnan and Grenache. A ripe, juicy sip, it’s balanced Château Lauriga 2018 Cuvée Bastien The Wine House. —A.I. with fresh acidity and a firm mineral finish. It’s best 90 Réserve (Côtes du Roussillon). Prominent abv: 14.5% Price: $30 enjoyed young. Boisset Collection. —A.I. veins of vanilla, spice and toast lend an ambitious abv: 14.5% Price: $15 tone to this opulent blend of Syrah, Carignan and Château de Montfrin 2017 Costières de Grenache. Black-cherry and plum flavors are rich 88 Nîmes. Luscious blueberry and blackberry Vignerons Propriétés Associés 2017 Domaine and juicy on the palate. The finish is marked by lin- notes are a touch preserved in this unctuous, full- 87 de Mon Père (Costières de Nîmes). While gering cardamom notes and a soft, feathery fringe of bodied blend of 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache and demure on the nose, the palate of this Syrah-Gre- tannins. Volio Vino. —A.I. 20% Mourvèdre. Whiffs of eucalyptus and garrigue nache blend offers crisp blackberry and cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $20 along with a fresh acidic backbone lend balance to flavors shaded by earthier tones of bramble and the midpalate. Ready to drink now, the wine should crushed stone. A briskly concentrated wine with Domaine de la Charité 2015 Altitude 150 hold through 2023. Paris Wine Company. —A.I. fine, integrated tannins, it’s best enjoyed young. 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues). abv: 14% Price: $15 Arcadia Imports. —A.I. Traces of char, anise and pepper lend smoky com- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA plexities to pert blackberry and plum in this Gre- Château L’Ermitage 2018 Auzan (Costières nache-Mourvèdre blend sourced from Signargues 88 de Nîmes). Forward, fresh blackberry and in the high-altitude reaches of the Southern Rhône. cherry are shaded by notes of bramble, sage and OTHER RED WINES Full bodied and mouthwatering with fruit, it’s a ripe thyme in this full-bodied, moderately concentrated sip balanced by an invigorating mineral finish and blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 40% Syrah and 10% Domaine Les Hauts de Mercurol 2016 Crozes-­ fine, taut tannins. Ready now, the wine should hold Grenache. It’s a peppery, crisply balanced wine with 93 Hermitage. Traces of leather, olive and well through 2025. BNP Distributing. —A.I. a brisk, delicately tannic finish. The wine is best smoke lend a savory old-world edge to this elegantly abv: 14% Price: $NA enjoyed now–2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. restrained Syrah. Pristine blackberry and cherry abv: 14% Price: $NA flavors are penetrating on the palate but nuanced Famille Quiot 2015 Chateau du Trignon by swathes of sun-dried garrigue, earth and animal. 90 (Rasteau). Ripe, luscious black cherry and Château Vessière 2017 Costières de Nîmes. Lovely already the wine should improve through plum are shaded by hints of earth, iron and garrigue 88 Herbaceous notes of garrigue and sage per- 2028. Serge Doré Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. in this muscular, full-bodied blend of Grenache and sist from nose to finish in this wine. A blend of equal abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Mourvèdre. Bold fruit flavors are balanced toe-to- parts Grenache and Syrah, it offers crisp, juicy black toe with a savory, earthen tone and fine, upright cherry and plum flavors shaded by hints of vanilla, Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Roquedon (Lirac). tannins on the finish. Drink now–2023. David Mil- smoke and anise. The finish is zesty, anchored by 91 Traces of lilac and rose petal perfume plum ligan Selections. —A.I. fine, persistent tannins and a hint of green pepper. and dried-strawberry flavors in this luscious, tex- abv: 15% Price: $23 Canon de Colorado. —A.I. tured wine. It’s gloriously ripe but pristine in fruit abv: 13% Price: $15 character. The finish is quite long framed by fine, Alain Jaume et Fils 2017 Les Gélinottes (Ven- penetrating tannins and a sizzle of burnt caramel. 89 toux). Blueberry compote and black-plum Domaine du Vistre 2017 Gladaiteur (Costières Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. flavors are forward and juicy in this wine but bal- 88 de Nîmes). While the nose is a touch herba- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 anced by traces of crushed earth and sun-dried ceous, blueberry and blackberry flavors are ripe and garrigue. It’s luscious but not dense, with a fresh, forward on the palate of this plump blend of 40% Domaine Clavel 2017 Syrius (Côtes du Rhône invigorating mineral finish. This easy-drinking but Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 10% 91 Villages Saint-Gervais). Fragrant rose petal elegant wine is ready now through 2023. Kysela Marselan. It’s a straightforward but juicy wine with and lavender provide an intoxicating introduction Père et Fils. —A.I. wide appeal. The finish is marked by fine but grip- to this opulent yet pristinely fruity red. Red cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ping tannins. Drink now–2024. Golden Vines. —A.I. and plum flavors are luscious and sunny, balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $NA by fresh acidity and a crisp mineral finish. Ready to La Cave les Coteaux du Rhône 2017 Arbouse drink now, the wine should hold through 2024. DHI 89 (Côtes du Rhône Villages Massif d’Uchaux). Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Château Selections. —A.I. Aromas of smoked nut and spice introduce this full- 88 des Sources Cuvée S (Costières de Nîmes). abv: NA Price: $15 bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Ripe While a bit herbaceous and earthen on the nose, blackberry and plum flavors are juicy but elegantly this juicy blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre Ferraton Père et Fils 2016 Calendes (Crozes- restrained, accented by dried herb and earth. The offers fresh blueberry and black-cherry flavors on 91 Hermitage). Inviting notes of smoke and moderately long finish ends on fine-grained, grippy the palate. Brisk in concentration, it’s a refreshing, burnt sugar lend complexity to cassis and black- tannins. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. easy-quaffing wine that finishes on fine, integrated berry flavors in this wine. It’s sumptuously ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $17 tannins. It’s best enjoyed young. Savorian Inc. —A.I. but anchored by a thrilling mineral midpalate. An abv: 13.5% Price: $NA immediately approachable but elegant Syrah, it Delas Frères 2017 Ventoux. Plush layers offers fine, persistent tannins and a spicy, peppery 88 of plum preserve and blackberry jelly are Famille Gourjon 2017 Château Font Barrièle finish. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. spiked by toast, pepper and clove in this lusciously 87 Les Vignes d’Héloïse (Costières de Nîmes). abv: 13% Price: $35 full-bodied sip. The primary fruit profile makes it Notes of dried plum and black cherry are shaded approachable in youth but tannins are quite fiery by savory dried herbs and earth in this full-bodied Cellier des Chartreux 2017 Le Clan des Loups on the finish. It’s best enjoyed now through 2023. blend Syrah and Grenache. Fresh acidity and firm, 90 (Côtes du Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais). Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —A.I. gripping tannins lend structure to the midpalate. Traces of anise and tobacco accent crisp blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Enjoy now–2024. European Wine Imports. —A.I. and black-currant flavors in this easy-quaffing Gre- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 nache-Syrah blend. Fresh and fruity, it’s an imme- Vignobles Guy Mousset et Fils 2017 Domaine diately accessible yet elegant wine finishing on fine, 88 de Clairfont (Vin de Pays de Vaucluse). Gabriel Meffre 2017 Château Grand Escalion feathery tannins. The wine is best enjoyed young. Plump but pristine blueberry and plum flavors 87 (Costières de Nîmes). Ripe but restrained Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. abound in this fruity wine. A rounded, easy-drink- cassis and blueberry are straightforward yet satis- abv: 14% Price: $28 fying in this full-bodied, fruity blend of Syrah, Cari-

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 ing sip, it finishes on fine, soft tannins. Drink now– granate, crushed mint and star anise framed in It closes on an orange-zest note. Drink 2023–2035. 2022. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. firm, polished tannins. Boasting some of the high- Wolfpack Worldwide LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $13 est vineyards in the denomination, it retains great abv: 14.5% Price: $50 freshness and balance. Drink 2022–2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. Collosorbo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. TUSCANY abv: 14.5% Price: $100 95 Sunbaked earth, underbrush, leather and baked plum aromas emerge on this full-bodied red. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Altesino 2015 Montosoli (Brunello di Montal­ Round and enveloping, the delicious, concentrated 96 cino). Underbrush, mature berry and exotic palate doles out juicy Morello cherry, fleshy black Biondi-Santi 2012 Riserva (Brunello di spice aromas mingle with a whiff of leather. Firmly raspberry, licorice and baking spice alongside vel- 100 Montalcino). For full review see page 3. structured and linear, the palate features ripe Mar- vety tannins. It’s already almost accessible but Cellar Selection. asca cherry, cranberry, licorice and tobacco while will also provide years of drinking pleasure. Enjoy abv: 13.5% Price: $689 tightly wound, fine-grained tannins provide the through 2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Give —K.O. Il Marroneto 2015 Madonna delle Grazie it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2035. LLS– abv: 14.5% Price: $55 100 (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $140 Padelletti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. For abv: 14% Price: $300 95 full review see page 5. Armilla 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. From abv: 14% Price: $65 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015 Pianrosso 96 one of Montalcino’s under-the-radar gems, 98 (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see this is a fantastic effort for the hot vintage, open- Villa al Cortile 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. page 3. Cellar Selection. ing with classic varietal aromas of underbrush, 95 Fragrant blue-flower, perfumed berry, new abv: 14.5% Price: $79 leather, wild berry and a balsamic whiff of camphor. leather and pipe-tobacco aromas waft out of the Smooth, full bodied and enveloping, the delicious glass along with whiffs of a freshly tilled vineyard. Conti Costanti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. palate combines finesse, great fruit and balance, dol- The smooth, elegantly structured palate delivers 98 For full review see page 3. ing out crushed raspberry, cherry compote, licorice juicy Marasca cherry, crushed black raspberry and abv: 14% Price: $150 and baking spice. It’s already almost accessible but baking spice framed in polished tannins. It also has offers years of drinking pleasure. Drink 2021–2030. surprising freshness for the hot vintage that lends Fuligni 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. For full ­Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. balance. Drink 2022–2030. Foley Family Wines. 98 review see page 3. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $65 Castelgiocondo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Il Marroneto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 96 For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. Abbadia Ardenga 2015 Vigna Piaggia 98 Fragrant and loaded with finesse, this per- abv: 14% Price: $75 94 (Brunello di Montalcino). Delicate, alluring fumed red features enticing scents of woodland scents of rose, thyme, camphor and wild red berry berry, pine forest, violet, underbrush and a whiff of Le Ragnaie 2015 Casanovina Montosoli lead the way along with a whiff of spice. It’s ethe- sandalwood. Elegantly structured, it’s tantalizingly 96 (Brunello di Montalcino). Earthy aromas of really elegant, offering juicy red cherry, strawberry ethereal, delivering juicy red cherry, strawberry, underbrush, scorched earth, leather and fragrant compote, star anise, crushed mint and a smoky black tea, licorice and a pronounced mineral note blue flower mingle with whiffs of exotic spice on note alongside taut, ultrarefined tannins. It’s radi- evoking rusty iron alongside tightly knit, refined this full-bodied red. It’s chewy and delicious, doling ant, with bright acidity. Some may find this almost tannins. It’s surprisingly vibrant for the hot vintage out raspberry jam, baked plum, cocoa and licorice too graceful but lovers of finesse will be enchanted. and still youthfully austere, but that’s a good thing alongside enveloping velvety tannins. It closes on a Drink 2022–2030. Golden Ram Imports. —K.O. as it shows great aging potential. Drink 2025–2035. hint of dried mint. Drink 2023–2035. Vine Street abv: 14% Price: $55 LLS–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $175 Baricci 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Sub- 94 dued aromas evoking underbrush, baked Le Chiuse 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. For Le Ragnaie 2015 VV (Brunello di Montalcino).­ plum and scorched earth form the nose along with a 98 full review see page 4. 96 Made with organically farmed grapes and balsamic whiff of camphor. Full bodied and chewy, abv: 14% Price: $110 fermented with indigenous yeasts, this opens with the brawny, enveloping palate features dried cherry, varietal aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, forest licorice, coffee bean and the warmth of alcohol Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015 Brunello floor, fragrant purple flower, spice and new leather. alongside firm, noble tannins. Drink 2022–2030. 97 di Montalcino. Enticing aromas of ripe wild Full bodied and enveloping, the concentrated, Vias Imports. —K.O. berry, iris, camphor and sunbaked soil take shape in chewy palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, ripe plum, abv: 15% Price: $95 the glass. Full bodied and enveloping, the smooth, licorice and baking spice framed in firm, velvety delicious palate doles out juicy Marasca cherry, tannins. It’s delicious and already tempting but Franco Pacenti–Canalicchio 2015 Brunello raspberry jam, licorice and tobacco while firm vel- let it fully develop. Drink 2023–2030. Vine Street 94 di Montalcino. Truffle, carob and scorched vety tannins provide support. It boasts concentra- ­Imports. —K.O. soil aromas meld with scents of baked plum and tion and structure but also balance, thanks to the abv: 14.5% Price: $175 mint. Concentrated and full bodied, the chewy pal- fruit richness and freshness. Drink 2023–2030. ate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry and bak- I­ndigenous Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Talenti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Rose ing spice alongside taut, velvety tannins that lead abv: 14.5% Price: $50 96 petal, crushed mint, woodland berry and to a firm ­finish. Drink 2023–2030. Siena Imports. eucalyptus aromas slowly take shape on this deli- —K.O. Le Potazzine 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. cious full bodied red. It’s linear and elegantly struc- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 97 Fragrant and elegantly structured, this tured, featuring juicy Marasca cherry, cranberry, opens with aromas of woodland berry, iris, new licorice and cocoa alongside firm velvety tannins. Le Ragnaie 2015 Fornace (Brunello di Mon- leather and wild aromatic herb. The taut, linear 94 talcino). Forest floor, truffle, violet, leather palate delivers juicy Morello cherry, ripe pome- and grilled herb aromas emerge from the glass. On

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BUYINGGUIDE the full-bodied palate, assertive fine-grained tan- along with whiffs of rose and exotic spice. On the d’Onice 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. nins ­accompany dried Morello cherry, cranberry, full-bodied polished palate, fine-grained tannins 91 ­Violet, Mediterranean brush and scorched licorice and carob while a menthol note provides lithely frame red cherry, pomegranate, coffee bean earth aromas lead the nose. The concentrated palate back up. Give it time to unwind and fully develop. and orange zest while fresh acidity keeps it bright. offers black-plum jam, star anise and orange rind set Drink 2025–2035. Vine Street Imports. —K.O. Drink 2022–2027. Verity Wine Partners. —K.O. against firm tannins. Drink 2022–2029. R.S. Lipman abv: 14.5% Price: $175 abv: 14.5% Price: $89 Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 Podere Le Ripi 2015 Amore e Magia (Brunello Val di Suga 2015 Vigna del Lago (Brunello 94 di Montalcino). Underbrush, scorched 93 di Montalcino). Aromas of black-skinned Celestino Pecci 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. earth, grilled herb and mature black-skinned-berry berry, charred earth and new leather lift out of 91 This offers aromas of ripe black-skinned aromas form the nose along with coconut sensa- the glass. The concentrated medium-bodied palate berry, scorched earth and leather. The dense palate tions. Full bodied and savory, the elegant, concen- offers dried black cherry, tobacco, star anise and presents ripe black cherry, tobacco and star anise trated palate delivers dried black cherry, licorice, orange zest alongside austere fine-grained tannins alongside firm chewy tannins. Drink 2022–2030. tobacco and espresso alongside assertive, velvety and firm acidity. Drink 2023–2032. Wilson Daniels BPW ­Merchants. —K.O. tannins that leave a firm finish. Drink 2022–2030. Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $59 Dark Star Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $110 abv: 14.5% Price: $120 Il Poggione 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro- Caprili 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas 91 mas of mature plum, vanilla, French oak and Terralsole 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 92 of forest floor, new leather, baked plum and camphor lift out of the glass. Full bodied and firmly 94 Plum, leather, eucalyptus, violet and botan- camphor mingle with a whiff of scorched earth in structured, the palate features dried black cherry, ical herb aromas lead the nose on this fragrant red. this full-bodied red. It’s densely knit and chewy, prune, licorice and a hint of tobacco leaf set against The linear palate has body and finesse, offering delivering dried Marasca cherry, raspberry jam, lico- a backbone of close-grained tannins. Give it several licorice, raspberry­ jam and espresso alongside taut rice and tobacco framed in velvety tannins. Drink years for the tannins to unwind then drink to enjoy close-grained tannins.­ Drink 2023–2030. Verity 2022–2027. Polaner Selections. —K.O. the already mature fruit flavors. Drink after 2025. Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $79 abv: 14.5% Price: $94 Le Ragnaie 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Altesino 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro- 92 Earthy aromas of truffle, scorched soil, La Fortuna 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 93 mas of underbrush, leather, camphor and tobacco, violet and new leather lead the way. It’s full 91 ­Underbrush, red-skinned-berry and tobacco wild berry form the nose. On the elegant, medium bodied and chewy, doling out mature black cherry, aromas emerge from the glass. The juicy palate offers bodied palate, licorice and clove accent a core of raspberry jam, ground clove and a hint of carob raspberry jam, orange zest and cinnamon alongside juicy black cherry while polished tannins lend alongside enveloping, close-grained tannins. Drink firm tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2022–2030. refined support. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. 2023–2030. Vine Street Imports. —K.O. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —K.O. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $65 Mastrojanni 2015 Vigna Schiena d’Asino Lazzeretti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe Capanne Ricci 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 92 (Brunello di Montalcino). This big chewy red 91 black-skinned berry, leather and scorched 93 Mediterranean scrub, leather and ripe shows ripe dark-skinned fruit, vanilla and French earth aromas lead the nose on this structured wine. black-skinned-berry aromas lead the nose. The oak set against accents of underbrush, tobacco leaf, The concentrated, chewy palate offers mature black savory, balanced palate offers dried black cherry, dried herb, licorice and coffee. Firm velvety tannins cherry, strawberry jam, star anise and black pep- clove and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins lend ­noble support. Thanks to the juicy fruit, the per alongside tightly wound tannins that need time and fresh acidity. Drink 2022–2031. Montcalm warmth of alcohol is present but doesn’t dominate. to unwind. Drink 2022–2031. Selected Estates of Wine Importers. —K.O. Drink 2022–2030.­ Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. ­Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60 abv: 15% Price: $175 Lisini 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Subtle Mastrojanni 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. For- 93 aromas of forest floor, woodland berry, wild Podere Scopetone 2015 Brunello di Mon- 91 est floor, scorched earth, grilled herb and herb and camphor aromas shape the nose. On the 92 talcino. Scorched earth, black-skinned berry exotic spice aromas form the nose. On the full- firmly structured palate, tightly knit noble tannins and tobacco aromas come together on this. The juicy bodied palate, firm fine-grained tannins accompany support dried cherry, pomegranate, licorice and medium-bodied palate offers fleshy black cherry, dried black cherry, orange zest, licorice and a hint of tobacco. It’s still young so give it a few more years clove, cinnamon and white pepper alongside fine- coconut before a warm, rather lean black-tea finish. to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033. Skurnik Wines, grained, enveloping tannins. Drink 2022–2031. Drink after 2025. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. Inc. —K.O. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Paradiso di Cacuci 2015 Brunello di Mon- Poggio di Sotto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Pinino 2015 Vigna Pinino (Brunello di Montal­ 93 talcino. Earthy aromas of forest floor, dark- 92 Delicately scented, this offers alluring aro- 91 cino). Leather, ground clove and red-berry skinned berry and leather lead the nose. The savory, mas of red woodland berry, camphor and a whiff of aromas lift out of the glass. The bright palate fea- balanced palate offers dried black cherry, raspberry in bloom. It’s elegant to the point of being tures red cherry, pomegranate and black pepper jam, star anise and black pepper alongside fine- ethereal, with an almost gossamer-like texture fea- alongside fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. grained tannins. Drink 2022–2031. Naples Global turing taut silky tannins that lithely support sour Drink 2022–2030. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. Trading. —K.O. cherry, pomegranate and star anise. Bright acidity abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $49 keeps it fresh and light on its feet before it finishes on a drying note evoking raw coffee bean. Domaine Ridolfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Red ­berry, Terralsole 2015 Vigna Fonte Lattaia Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. 91 crushed mint, camphor and toasted notes aro- 93 (Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of grilled abv: 13.5% Price: $300 mas form the nose. The austere, linear palate fea- herb, graphite and wild berry take center stage tures sour cherry, coffee bean and a hint of clove set

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 against fresh acidity while close-grained, drying tan- Celestino Pecci 2015 Poggio al Carro (Brunello purple-flower aromas lead the nose along with nins leave a grippy finish. Ethica Wines. —K.O. 90 di Montalcino). This opens with aromas whiffs evoking sunbaked earth. The aromas follow abv: 14% Price: $NA evoking cassis, ripe black plum and underbrush. over to the austere palate along with dried cherry The concentrated palate features tobacco, licorice and exotic spice framed by close-grained tannins Sesti 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of and black-cherry jam alongside chewy tannins and that leave a clenching finish. Drink 2023–2030. 91 scorched earth, underbrush and licorice lead the warmth of alcohol. Drink 2022–2030. BPW ­Polaner Selections. —K.O. the nose along with a whiff of eucalyptus. It’s full Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA bodied, offering dried cherry, prune, star anise and abv: 15% Price: $79 a hint of crushed herb alongside solid fine-grained Tenuta Buon Tempo 2015 Brunello di tannins before a warm finish. Kermit Lynch Wine Col d’Orcia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 90 Montalcino.­ Aromas of black cherry, under- Merchant. —K.O. 90 Warm and structured, this has aromas brush and baking spice form the nose. The solid pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 evoking scorched earth, underbrush and mature ate offers mature black plum, licorice and tobacco black-skinned berry. On the firm palate, asser- alongside firm tannins. Drink 2023–2029. H. Mer- Baccinetti 2015 Saporaia (Brunello di tive, close-grained tannins accompany dried black cer Wine & Spirit Imports. —K.O. 90 Montalcino). This opens with aromas of ­cherry, licorice, sage and tobacco while the warmth abv: 14% Price: $60 scorched earth, black-skinned fruit and tobacco. of alcohol caps off the finish. Drink 2023–2030. The concentrated palate shows ripe black plum, Taub Family Selections. —K.O. Terralsole 2015 Vigna Pian Bossolino licorice and clove alongside chewy tannins. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $55 90 (Brunello di Montalcino). Underbrush, 2023–2029. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. cocoa and plum aromas mingle with delicate whiffs abv: 15% Price: $NA Col di Lamo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. of blue flower and grilled herb. The taut palate 90 This offers aromas of dark-skinned berry, shows sour cherry, cranberry, sage and espresso Canneta 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. tilled soil and a whiff of new leather. The savory, alongside bright acidity and rather dusty, drying 90 ­Aromas of dark-skinned berry, tobacco and balanced palate delivers dried black cherry, star tannins. It’s light bodied but also has just enough a balsamic note of eucalyptus lead the nose. The ­anise and tobacco alongside firm, youthfully austere tension. Give the tannins a few years to unwind firm palate offers black plum, licorice and black pep- tannins. Drink after 2023. USA Wine West. —K.O. then drink sooner rather than later to capture the per alongside polished tannins. Drink 2022–2030. abv: 14% Price: $75 remaining fruit sensations. Verity Wine Partners. ­Orvino Wine Imports. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $54 Cordella 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Made abv: 13.5% Price: $89 90 with organically grown Sangiovese, this Cantine Luciani 2015 Brunello di ­Montalcino. opens with aromas of dark-skinned berry, tobacco Val di Suga 2015 Vigna Spuntali (Brunello 90 This has aromas evoking dark-skinned and cooking spice. The savory palate offers black- 90 di Montalcino). This opens with aromas of berry, leather and cooking spice while the savory cherry jam, clove and black pepper alongside pol- ­mature dark-skinned fruit, espresso and toasted palate offers dried black cherry, licorice and white ished tannins. Drink 2023–2030. Zeman Global oak. The dense palate offers sour cherry, ground pepper. Lithe tannins offer polished support. Drink Selections. —K.O. clove and roasted coffee bean alongside close- 2022–2029. Lionstone International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $89 grained tannins. Drink 2023–2028. Wilson Daniels abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Ltd. —K.O. Franco Pacenti–Canalicchio 2015 Rosildo abv: 14% Price: $110 Capanna 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe 90 (Brunello di Montalcino). This opens with 90 black-skinned berry, violet, underbrush aromas evoking scorched earth, coconut, toasted Bellaria 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. This and new leather aromas fill the glass. Full bodied notes and balsamic whiffs of camphor. Firm and full 89 opens with black-skinned berry, leather and rounded, the palate offers licorice, spirit-soaked bodied, the palate shows dried cherry and exotic­ and scorched earth. The firm palate shows ripe black cherry and tobacco accompanied by close- spice alongside assertive close-grained tannins that black plum, licorice and black pepper alongside taut grained, solid tannins that leave a drying finish. leave a drying grippy finish. Siena Imports. —K.O. tannins. Drink after 2023. Votto Vines Importing. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Mastrojanni 2015 Vigna Loreto (Brunello Castelli Martinozzi 2015 Brunello di Mon- 90 di Montalcino). Subdued aromas suggest- Canneta 2015 Le Bruciate (Brunello di Mon- 90 talcino. Scorched earth, new leather, dried ing scorched underbrush, camphor and espresso 89 talcino). Scorched soil, black-skinned- botanical herb and mature black-skinned berry form the nose. On the muscular, monolithic palate, berry and cooking-spice aromas emerge from the aromas slowly emerge in the glass. The full-bodied firm grainy tannins accompany dried cherry, prune, glass. The firm palate offers dried black cherry, palate doles out fleshy Marasca cherry, ripe black roasted coffee bean, tobacco and the heat of evident clove and white pepper alongside bracing tannins. plum, licorice and dried sage alongside solid but alcohol. Give the tannins a few years to unwind then Drink after 2023. Orvino Wine Imports. —K.O. velvety tannins. Showing the heat of the vintage, drink sooner rather than later to capture the fruit abv: 14% Price: $60 it’s already almost accessible but still offers several and remaining freshness. Selected Estates of Europe years of sipping pleasure. Drink 2022 through 2027. Ltd. —K.O. Cava d’Onice 2015 Colombaio (Brunello di Wine 4 All. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $120 89 Montalcino). Aromas of mocha, baked plum abv: 14.5% Price: $50 and tilled soil take shape in the glass. The taut pal- Pinino 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Violet, ate shows blackberry jam, clove and licorice while Castello Romitorio 2015 Brunello di Montal­ 90 red-berry and new leather aromas shape close-grained tannins leave an assertive finish. 90 cino. Aromas of cedar, leather and dark- the nose. It’s bright and juicy, offering flavors of red Drink 2023–2028. R.S. Lipman Co. —K.O. skinned fruit emerge from the glass. The polished cherry, raspberry jam and white pepper alongside abv: 14.5% Price: $89 palate offers dried black cherry, mocha and tobacco fresh acidity and polished tannins. Drink 2022– alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. 2029. Tri-Vin­ Imports. —K.O. Ciacci Fabiano 2015 Campaperi (Brunello di Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50 89 Montalcino). Black-skinned-fruit, baking- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA spice and leather aromas slowly take shape. The Salicutti 2015 Teatro (Brunello di Montal­ ripe palate offers blackberry jam, clove and black 90 cino). French oak, coconut and fragrant

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BUYINGGUIDE pepper alongside chewy tannins. Drink after 2022. blue flower on this muscular red. The dense, mono- La Fortuna 2015 Giobi (Brunello di K&L Wine Merchants. —K.O. lithic palate shows the heat of the scorching vin- 88 Montalcino).­ This has aromas suggest- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 tage, offering prune steeped in spirits, toasted coffee ing toasted oak, camphor and mocha. The tightly bean and grilled herb alongside close-grained tan- wound palate offers roasted coffee bean, prune and Il Valentiano 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. nins. The heat of evident alcohol closes the firm fin- licorice set against taut astringent tannins that grip 89 Aromas of tilled earth, dark-skinned ish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —K.O. the close. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. berry and leather emerge from the glass. The firm abv: 15% Price: $200 —K.O. straightforward palate offers mature black plum, abv: 14.5% Price: $120 star anise and a hint of mocha alongside tightly Tenuta Friggiali 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. wound tannins. Drink 2023–2029. K&L Wine Mer- 89 Aromas of dark-skinned berry, mint and La Magia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Tilled chants. —K.O. under­brush emerge from the glass. The juicy pal- 88 soil, mocha and baked plum aromas lead the abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ate offers tobacco, blackberry jam and orange zest nose. The dense palate offers prune, toasted oak and alongside firm tannins. Drink after 2023. Soilair roasted coffee bean alongside grainy tannins. Drink La Fornace 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Selection. —K.O. after 2023. Enotria Wine Import. —K.O. 89 This opens with aromas of dark-skinned abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 15% Price: $36 fruit, mocha and baking spice. The dense palate offers ripe black plum, vanilla and licorice alongside Val di Suga 2015 Poggio al Granchio La Rasina 2015 Persante (Brunello di Montal­ chewy tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Drink 89 (Brunello di Montalcino). Ripe black-plum, 88 cino). Black-plum, mocha and tobacco­ aro- 2023–2029. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. toasted oak and mocha aromas lead the nose. The mas emerge the glass. The ripe palate offers black- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA tight palate offers prune, roasted coffee bean and berry jam, espresso and licorice alongside assertive licorice alongside assertive tannins. Drink after tannins. Drink after 2022. Massanois Imports. —K.O. La Fornace 2015 Origini (Brunello di 2023. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $88 89 ­Montalcino). Spiced plum, cedar and stalky abv: 14% Price: $110 underbrush lead the way. The ripe palate shows Máté 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. This dried black cherry, star anise and clove framed in Villa Le Prata 2013 Massimo Riserva 88 opens with aromas of French oak, roasted firm tannins. Drink 2023–2029. Vignaioli Selec- 89 (Brunello di Montalcino). This has aromas coffee bean and coconut. The assertive palate offers tion. —K.O. of mocha, ripe black-skinned fruit and leather. The ripe black plum, mocha and clove alongside raspy abv: 14.5% Price: $NA robust palate offers mature black plum, licorice tannins that clench the finish. Forza Wine Imports. and espresso alongside dusty tannins. Drink 2022– —K.O. La Palazzetta 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 2029. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 89 Aromas of scorched soil, dark-skinned fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and cedar form the nose. The earthy, solid palate Patrizia Cencioni 2015 Brunello di ­Montalcino. shows ripe black plum, vanilla and clove alongside Abbadia Ardenga 2015 Brunello di Mon- 88 This opens with aromas of toasted oak, chewy tannins.­ Drink after 2021. T. Edward Wines 88 talcino. This opens with delicate scents black fruit and mocha. The dense palate offers Ltd. —K.O. evoking iris, violet, wild berry and whiffs of dried black-plum jam, clove and roasted coffee bean abv: 14.5% Price: $50 aromatic herb. It’s light bodied and agile, with dusty alongside close-grained tannins. Drink after 2023. tannins that accompany cranberry, pomegranate Global Spirits and Wine. —K.O. Pian delle Ginestre 2015 Brunello di and star anise. It’s fresh, with tangy acidity. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $40 89 Montalcino.­ This opens with aromas of 2021–2025. Golden Ram­ ­Imports. —K.O. ripe black-skinned berry, underbrush and leather. abv: 14% Price: $45 Piombaia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Sub- The brawny, concentrated palate offers dried black 88 dued aromas of tilled soil and dark-skinned cherry, tobacco and clove alongside solid tannins. Bellaria 2015 Assunto (Brunello di fruit form the nose. The medium-bodied palate offers You’ll also perceive the warmth of alcohol on the 88 ­Montalcino). Ripe dark-skinned fruit, blackberry jam, vanilla and clove alongside taut tan- close. Drink 2022–2028. Best Value Wine Group. vanilla and weedy underbrush­ aromas emerge from nins. Drink after 2022. Classical Importers. —K.O. —K.O. the glass. The straightforward palate offers sour abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 15% Price: $50 cherry, tangerine zest and tobacco alongside close- grained tannins. Drink after 2022. Votto Vines Podere Paganico 2014 Riserva (Brunello Pietranera 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Importing. —K.O. 88 di Montalcino). Aromas suggesting black- 89 Ripe dark-skinned-fruit, scorched earth and abv: 14.5% Price: $75 skinned berry and tilled soil waft out of the glass. mocha aromas appear in the glass. The firm palate The dense palate offers prune, sage and raw almond offers black-plum jam, star anise and clove along- Cantina di Montalcino 2015 Brunello di alongside dusty tannins and the heat of evident side close-grained tannins. Drink after 2023. Soilair 88 Montalcino.­ Scorched earth, game, dark- ­alcohol. Drink after 2022. Saranty Imports. —K.O. Selection. —K.O. skinned fruit and cooking-spice aromas waft out abv: 15% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 of the glass. The taut palate offers prune, star anise and a vanilla note alongside tightly wound tannins Poggio dell’Aquila 2015 Brunello di Mon- Podere Paganico 2015 Brunello di Mon- that leave a lean ­finish. Drink after 2023. Tri-Vin 88 talcino. This has aromas suggesting black- 89 talcino. This opens with mature black- Imports. —K.O. skinned fruit, leather and tilled soil. The forward skinned fruit, sunbaked earth and cooking-spice abv: 13.5% Price: $50 palate delivers black-plum, tobacco and clove aromas. The ripe palate offers prune, toasted hazel- alongside chewy tannins. Drink after 2022. Votto nut and vanilla alongside chewy tannins and the Il Poggiolo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro- Vines Importing. —K.O. heat of evident alcohol.­ Drink after 2022. Saranty 88 mas of black plum, tilled soil and tobacco abv: 14% Price: $80 Imports. —K.O. emerge from the glass. The mature, solid palate abv: 15% Price: $55 shows blackberry jam, clove and mocha alongside Poggiotondo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. firmtannins. ­ Drink after 2022. Enotec Imports, Inc. 88 This opens with aromas of mocha, prune and Ruffino 2015 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello di —K.O. tobacco. The scents carry over to the solid, straight- 89 Montalcino). Earthy aromas of truffle and abv: 14% Price: $65 forward palate along with hints of clove. Assertive sunbaked earth mix with camphor and a whiff of

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 tannins provide support. Drink after 2022.Soilair ­ Lambardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. rosemary and graphite on this medium-bodied red. Selection. —K.O. 87 ­Subdued aromas evoking menthol, scorched It’s linear, savory and balanced, delivering red-­ abv: 14% Price: $59 earth and cherries marinated in spirits slowly take cherry, pomegranate, star anise and white-pepper shape in the glass. The big, one-dimensional palate flavors set against vibrant acidity and polished tan- Salicutti 2015 Piaggione (Brunello di Mon- is dominated by blistering alcohol while notes of nins. It shows breeding and finesse. It’s ready now 88 talcino). Subdued aromas suggesting iris, dried cherry, game and leather stay muffled in the or you could hold for even more complexity. Drink French oak and exotic spice emerge on the nose. background. Grainy tannins clench the hot assertive through 2026. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. The dense brawny palate is one-dimensional and finish. Siena Imports. —K.O. —K.O. rather tired, offering dried black cherry, vanilla and abv: 15.5% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $125 ­roasted coffee bean alongside the heat of evident ­alcohol. Close-grained tannins give it a drying ­finish. Madonna Nera 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Podere Le Ripi 2016 Sogni e Follia (Rosso ­Polaner Selections. —K.O. 87 Aromas suggesting toasted oak, espresso and 93 di Montalcino). Aromas of red berry, blue abv: 15% Price: $NA tobacco slowly emerge from the glass. The tightly flower, leather and an earthy whiff of truffle waft wound palate offers prune, roasted coffee bean and out of the glass. Reflecting the nose, the taut, lin- Sesta di Sopra 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. sage alongside close-grained tannins. Drink after ear palate shows juicy Marasca cherry, baking spice, 88 Subdued aromas suggesting baked plum, 2023. Capital Wines, LLC. —K.O. camphor and wild herb alongside lithe tannins and scorched earth and leather escape the glass along abv: 14.5% Price: $50 fresh acidity. It’s savory, with youthful tension and with a whiff of crushed mint. The big, one-dimen- while ready now it will offer several years of enjoy- sional palate is less expressive, evoking prune and Poggio Lucina 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. ment. It’s a fantastic Rosso. Drink through 2022. tobacco alongside the heat of evident alcohol. Lack- 87 Aromas of underbrush, Mediterranean Dark Star Imports. —K.O. ing fruit richness, the tight, close-grained tannins brush and prune form the subdued nose. The ripe, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 give it a mouthdrying finish. Despite the tannins, one-dimensional palate suggests raisin, vanilla and drink sooner rather than later before the remaining orange zest alongside brawny tannins, the heat of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2018 Rosso di fruit dries out. DJK Imports. —K.O. alcohol evident. Yountville Wine Imports. —K.O. 92 Montalcino. For full review see page 10. Edi- abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $NA tors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $22 Tenuta San Giorgio 2015 Ugolforte (Brunello Poggio Nardone 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 88 di Montalcino). This opens with subtle aro- 87 Roasted coffee bean, toasted oak and dark- Corte Pavone 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. mas suggesting eucalyptus, French oak and scorched spice aromas lead the nose. The tightly knit palate 91 ­Aromas of rose, crushed aromatic herb and earth along with a feint whiff of violet. The palate suggests prune, mocha and dried sage flavors along- wild berry mingle with whiffs of scorched earth. is on the lean side, evoking unripe red berry and side raspy tannins that leave an astringent finish. Made with organically farmed grapes, the savory, espresso alongside tight, drying but rather fleeting Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. medium-bodied palate has surprising concentra- tannins. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55 tion, doling out juicy black plum, ripe Morello abv: 13.5% Price: $60 cherry and baking spice alongside rounded, well- Rodolfo Cosimi 2015 Terra Rossa (Brunello di integrated tannins. Drink through 2022. AP Wine Val di Suga 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. 87 Montalcino). The shy nose eventually reveals Imports. —K.O. 88 Aromas of camphor, scorched earth and aromas suggesting cedar, vanilla and tilled soil. The abv: 14% Price: $30 ripe dark-skinned fruit take shape in the glass. The straightforward palate suggests sour cherry, roasted straightforward palate offers prune, mocha and coffee bean and clove alongside dusty, rather fleet- Le Potazzine 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. clove alongside solid tannins. Drink after 2022. ing tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. 91 ­Aromas of violet, underbrush and red wood- Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75 land berry shape the nose. Medium bodied and abv: 14% Price: $70 linear, the vibrant palate offers pomegranate, sour Uggiano 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Sub- cherry and star anise set against racy acidity and Verbena 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. This 87 dued aromas of scorched earth, baking spice taut, polished tannins that provide support and 88 has aromas of mature dark-skinned fruit, and dark-skinned fruit slowly emerge from the glass. finesse. Drink through 2028. Skurnik Wines, Inc. baking spice and mocha. The solid palate offers The straightforward palate offers prune, orange zest —K.O. prune, star anise and roasted coffee bean along- and ground clove alongside chewy tannins. It has a abv: 14% Price: $35 side taut tannins. Drink through 2022. Regal Wine rather fleeting finish. Drink after 2022. Marquee ­Imports Inc. —K.O. Selections. —K.O. Tassi 2016 Rosso di Montalcino. Fragrant abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA 91 ­purple-flower, ripe plum and baking-spice aromas lead the nose. On the chewy full-bodied Voliero 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. ­Aromas Verbena 2015 Le Pope (Brunello di Montal­ palate, tight, velvety tannins accompany succulent 88 of dark-skinned berry, Mediterranean brush 87 cino). Subdued aromas of toasted oak, black cherry, blackberry and star anise. It’s not your and cooking spice lead the nose. The ripe palate offers ­roasted coffee bean and baked plum slowly emerge typical easygoing Rosso and will offer good mid- mature black plum, clove and tangerine zest along- from the glass. The warm, one-dimensional palate term aging. Drink through 2021–2026. —K.O. side smooth tannins. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. offers blackberry jam, espresso and a green note abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $65 evoking powdered sage alongside raspy tannins that leave a rather astringent finish. Drink after 2023. Tenuta di Sesta 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. La Rasina 2015 Brunello di Montalcino. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. ­ 91 Aromas reminiscent of fragrant purple 87 A­romas of toasted oak, coconut and baked abv: 15% Price: $NA ­flower, woodland berry, eucalyptus and new leather plum lead the nose. The mature palate offers black- waft out of the glass. Juicy, savory and incredibly cherry-marinated in spirits, star anise and roasted easy to drink, the smooth palate features succulent coffee bean alongside grainy tannins. Drink after ROSSO DI MONTALCINO Marasca cherry, raspberry and licorice. Bright acid- 2022. Massanois Imports. —K.O. ity and polished tannins keep it fresh and balanced. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 Biondi-Santi 2016 Rosso di Montalcino. Drink through 2022. Enotria Wine Import. Editors’ 95 ­Underbrush, wild berry, rose and camphor Choice. —K.O. aromas waft out of the glass along with whiffs of abv: 14.5% Price: $19

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La Fiorita 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. est hint of black tea. Drink through 2022. Polaner form the nose. It’s round, juicy and accessible, offer- 90 ­Fragrant and refined, this lovely red fea- ­Selections. —K.O. ing dried black cherry, plum and espresso alongside tures violet, wild berry, incense and crushed aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 lightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Drink soon. matic herb aromas. The bright linear palate offers —K.O. juicy cherry, cranberry, star anise and a hint of cof- Col d’Orcia 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. ­Aromas abv: 14% Price: $NA fee bean alongside silky tannins and nervous acidity. 89 of truffle, scorched earth, underbrush and Drink through 2023. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. ripe Marasca cherry carry over to the straightfor- Canalicchio di Sopra 2018 Rosso di abv: 14% Price: $25 ward palate along with licorice, orange zest and 88 Montalcino.­ Underbrush, grilled herb, wild sage. Solid fine-grained tannins lend support. Drink berry and blue-flower aromas shape the nose. On Palazzo 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. Aromas through 2021. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. the vibrant palate, vigorous acidity and taut fine- 90 of ripe fruit, blue flower and leather emerge abv: 14% Price: $25 grained tannins accompany sour cherry, strawberry from the glass. It’s savory and surprisingly tangy for and a hint of espresso. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. the hot vintage, doling out black-cherry jam, orange Col d’Orcia 2016 Banditella (Rosso di Mon- abv: 14% Price: $30 zest and baking spice alongside dusty tannins. Drink 89 talcino). Made from organically grown San- through 2022. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. giovese grapes, this opens with dark-skinned berry, Collosorbo 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. This abv: 14% Price: $38 cedar and baking-spice aromas. The full-bodied 88 opens with subtle aromas suggesting under- palate offers black cherry, vanilla and espresso brush, wild herb and a whiff of toasted nut. Smooth PianCornello 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Iris, alongside fine-grained tannins and firm acidity. and juicy, the palate shows ripe Morello cherry, 90 underbrush, wild berry and new leather Taub Family Selections. —K.O. pomegranate and ground clove. It’s already acces- aromas emerge in the glass. The dense, straightfor- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 sible thanks to polished tannins and fresh acidity. ward palate doles out juicy black cherry, mint and Enjoy through 2022. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. licorice while solid but polished tannins and fresh Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2017 Rosso di abv: 14.5% Price: $21 acidity lend support. Drink through 2022. Soilair 89 Montalcino. Blue-flower, exotic spice and Selection. —K.O. baked-plum aromas take center stage on this fra- Fanti 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Wild berry, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 grant red. The smooth easygoing palate offers dried 88 rose and crushed botanical herb aromas Marasca cherry, black tea and a hint of espresso lift out of the glass. Mirroring the nose, the bright, Podere Scopetone 2017 Rosso di Montalcino.­ alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2021. light-bodied palate offers fresh strawberry, white 90 Enticing scents of fragrant purple flower, Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. pepper and a hint of mint alongside lithe tannins. perfumed berry and exotic spice shape the nose. abv: 14% Price: $30 Drink through 2021. Massanois Imports. —K.O. Smooth and savory, the elegant, accessible palate abv: 13.5% Price: $20 features mature black cherry, licorice and orange Pietranera 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. zest framed in silky tannins. Drink through 2021. 89 ­Aromas evoking coconut, camphor and Fattoi 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Bright Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. underbrush mingle with a whiff of rose on this light- 88 and easygoing, this savory young red offers abv: 14% Price: $27 bodied, linear red. Smooth and juicy, the polished aromas and flavors of strawberry compote, crushed palate offers ripe Marasca cherry, star anise and herb, star anise and camphor. Vibrant acidity and Ridolfi 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Wild a hint of cocoa alongside light, polished tannins.­ smooth tannins provide lithe support. Tricana 90 ­berry, rose, toasted notes and the barest ­Enjoy through 2021. Soilair Selection. —K.O. ­Imports. —K.O. whiff of new leather form the nose on this savory abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 young red. The lithe, linear palate shows juicy Marasca cherry, red plum and baking spice along- Tenuta Buon Tempo 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. La Fortuna 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. side polished tannins. Bright acidity keeps it fresh. 89 This opens with aromas evoking scorched 88 Aromas­ of iris, exotic spice and plum lead Drink through 2023. Ethica Wines. —K.O. earth, toasted nut and underbrush. On the round, the nose along with a whiff of tilled soil. The round, abv: 14% Price: $30 juicy palate, polished tannins accompany fleshy accessible palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed Morello cherry, licorice and clove. Drink through strawberry, star anise and espresso alongside relaxed, San Polo 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. Aro- 2021. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —K.O. slightly dusty tannins. Firm acidity keeps it light on 90 mas of cocoa, sunbaked earth and toasted abv: 14% Price: $25 its feet. K&L Wine Merchants. —K.O. almond lead the way. It’s ripe and chewy, with taut abv: 14.5% Price: $25 polished tannins that accompany juicy black cherry, Uggiano 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Wild raspberry and ground clove. Drink now through 89 berry, blue-flower, tobacco and camphor San Polino 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. 2022. —K.O. aromas form the nose on this bright young red. 88 ­Aromas of blue flower, damp underbrush, abv: 14% Price: $29 It’s medium bodied and savory, offering ripe black leather and a whiff of game emerge from the glass. cherry and orange zest before a licorice close. Lithe Despite the abv of 14.5%, it seems surprisingly Talenti 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Red tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced. Drink light bodied, suggesting sour cherry, pomegranate 90 ­berry, star anise and menthol aromas through 2022. Marquee Selections. —K.O. and baking spice alongside buffed tannins and racy mingle together on this savory red. It’s full bodied abv: 14% Price: $19 acidity. Drink through 2022. T. Edward Wines Ltd. but accessible, doling out ripe black cherry, plum —K.O. and licorice alongside rounded tannins. Drink now Banfi 2018 Poggio alle Mura (Rosso di abv: 14.5% Price: $30 through 2022. Wolfpack Worldwide LLC. —K.O. 88 Montalcino).­ Aromas of French oak, mature abv: 14.5% Price: $20 plum, coconut and camphor lead the nose. On the Uccelliera 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Rose, dense, easygoing palate, licorice and espresso notes 88 woodland berry, menthol and dark spice Caprili 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Earthy and accent black cherry. It’s already accessible, with aromas are front and center on this fragrant wine. 89 vibrant, this lithe, easy-drinking red offers buffed tannins. Drink through 2022. Banfi Vintners. Linear and light on its feet, the bright palate offers aromas rose, moist soil, wild berry and just a hint —K.O. red cherry, cranberry and licorice alongside racy of game. On the bright, linear palate, racy acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 acidity and relaxed tannins. Skurnik Wines, Inc. ity and polished tannins provide light support for —K.O. juicy sour cherry, crushed strawberry and the mer- Beatesca 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. Rose, abv: 14% Price: $30 88 eucalyptus and dark-skinned berry aromas

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Banfi 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Wild berry, Bonacchi 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. This has Franc and Petit Verdot. The dense palate offers ripe 87 violet and menthol aromas are front and 84 aromas suggesting cellar floor, tilled soil black plum, mocha and vanilla while polished tan- center on this bright young red. It’s easygoing and and a whiff of camphor. On the light-bodied, rather nins provide lithe support. Drink through 2024. approachable, offering juicy Marasca cherry and diluted palate, dusty, fleeting tannins accompany The Hirsch Collection. —K.O. a hint of baking spice alongside soft tannins and dried cherry and a hint of clove. Drink now. Prestige abv: 14.5% Price: $44 ­vibrant acidity. Drink through 2021. Banfi Vintners. Beverage Group. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Castello di Bolgheri 2018 Varvàra (Bolgheri abv: 14% Price: $28 90 Superiore). Aromas of black-skinned berry, violet, Mediterranean brush and leather lead the Il Poggione 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Blue- BOLGHERI SUPERIORE nose on this Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet 87 flower, wild berry and pine-resin aromas Franc and Petit Verdot blend. The smooth, savory come together in the glass. On the tense, racy pal- Guado al Tasso 2016 Bolgheri Superiore. For palate offers black currant jam, tobacco and licorice ate, nervous acidity accompanies sour cherry and 96 full review see page 4. alongside fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2024. white pepper alongside dusty, drying tannins. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $130 Total Beverage Solution. —K.O. through 2022. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $30 2016 Bolgheri Superiore. Cedar, 95 French oak and cassis aromas follow over Poggio al Tesoro 2016 Sondraia (Bolgheri Innocenti 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Under- to the vibrant palate along with coconut and dried 90 Superiore). For full review see page 16. 87 brush, moist earth, toasted nut and a whiff black cherry. Racy acidity lends energy and youthful abv: 15% Price: $85 of violet form the nose. Light bodied and linear, the tension while firm fine-grained tannins offerelegant ­ palate offers cranberry, Marasca cherry and star support. It’s still young and primary so it give it time Casa di Terra 2015 Maronea Cabernet Sau- ­anise alongside bright acidity and dusty, not very to fully develop. Drink 2024–2036. Vintus LLC. 89 vignon (Bolgheri Superiore). This 100% persistent tannins. PSP Imports. —K.O. —K.O. Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas of roasted cof- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $260 fee bean, cedar and mature black fruit. The dense palate shows black-currant jam, espresso and star Podere Paganico 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. Campo alle Comete 2016 Bolgheri Superiore. anise alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2023. 87 Intense aromas of rose dominate the nose 94 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. while whiffs of moist soil and wild herb linger in Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot opens with aromas abv: 14% Price: $66 the background. The bright, easygoing palate offers of Mediterranean brush, black-skinned berry and sour cherry, pomegranate and a hint of clove set tobacco. The concentrated palate offers blackberry Casa di Terra 2015 Cabernet Franc (Bolgheri against vibrant acidity and light tannins. Drink soon. jam, licorice and mocha alongside fine-grained 88 Superiore). This Cabernet Franc has sub- ­Saranty Imports. —K.O. ­tannins. Drink 2022–2030. Vias Imports. —K.O. dued aromas evoking toasted oak, vanilla and hay. abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $125 The dense palate offers mature black plum, roasted coffee bean and coconut alongside bracing tannins. Bonacchi 2017 Molino del Piano (Rosso di Castello di Bolgheri 2017 Bolgheri Supe- It has a tart, drying finish. de Grazia Imports, LLC. 86 Montalcino). This has subtle aromas of 93 riore. This savory, full-bodied blend of 85% —K.O. plum, underbrush, wild herb and a whiff of leather. Caber­net Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc fea- abv: 14.5% Price: $160 The light-bodied, easygoing palate offers juicy black tures enticing aromas of woodland berry, under- cherry and a hint of baking spice alongside loose- brush and star anise. The concentrated, polished Donne Fittipaldi 2016 Bolgheri Superiore. knit tannins. Gran Fondo Wine. —K.O. palate delivers black currant, licorice, tobacco and 88 A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 a touch of nutmeg alongside fine-grained tannins. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this has aromas Enjoy 2021–2029. Total Beverage Solution. —K.O. suggesting mature dark-skinned fruit, toasted oak Voliero 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. This abv: 14.5% Price: $80 and mocha. The dense palate offers prune, licorice 86 straightforward red has subtle aromas evok- and roasted coffee bean alongside assertive tannins. ing moist underbrush, crushed aromatic herb and a Guado al Melo 2016 Atis (Bolgheri Superiore). Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. whiff of toasted nut. The palate is rather lean and 91 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $90 diluted, suggesting sour cherry and a hint of clove Franc and Merlot, this offers aromas of black- alongside firm acidity and dusty, fleeting tannins skinned berry, green peppercorn and ginger. The Podere 7 2017 Il Superbo (Bolgheri Supe- that leave a mouthdrying close. Skurnik Wines, Inc. concentrated, balanced palate delivers ripe black 88 riore). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and —K.O. currant, licorice and black pepper alongside firm, Cabernet Franc, this solid red opens with aromas abv: 14% Price: $25 fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2027. Nicola of toasted oak, mocha and ripe dark-skinned fruit. ­Biscardo Selections. —K.O. The dense palate offers espresso, mature black plum Camigliano 2018 Rosso di Montalcino. This abv: 14.5% Price: $68 and tobacco alongside chewy tannins. Votto Vines 85 opens with aromas of toasted nut and Importing. —K.O. under­brush. On the lean, fleeting palate, vigorous Caccia al Piano 1868 2016 Levia Gravia abv: 14.5% Price: $45 acidity and dusty, drying tannins accompany sour 90 (­Bolgheri Superiore). This blend of Caber- cherry and a hint of dried sage. Vias Imports. —K.O. net Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc offers abv: 13.5% Price: $25 aromas of cassis, mocha and graphite. The struc- BOLGHERI tured palate presents blackberry jam, star anise and Fattoria La Lecciaia 2018 Sangiovese (Rosso espresso alongside polished tannins. Drink through Le Macchiole 2017 Rosso (Bolgheri). This 85 di Montalcino). This has somewhat muddled 2025. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. 92 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and aromas of stewed prune, resin and game that carry abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with aromas of black- over to the lean, somewhat diluted palate along with skinned berry, cedar, plum and clove. The juicy pal- a hint of almond. It has bright acidity while dusty, Campo alla Sughera 2016 Arnione (Bolgheri ate offers black-currant jam, licorice and sage along- fleeting tannins offer loose support. Monsieur 90 Superiore). Aromas of mature dark berry, side velvety tannins. Enjoy through 2026. Vintus ­Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. cooking spice and toasted oak lead the way on this LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Poggio al Tesoro 2016 Dedicato a Walter blackberry jam, coconut and licorice alongside fruit, baking spice and toasted oak. The aromas 92 (Bolgheri). For full review see page 11. ­mature tannins. Total Wine & More. —K.O. ­carry over to the straightforward palate along with abv: 15% Price: $100 abv: 15% Price: $40 mocha notes while assertive tannins provide the firm framework. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. Campo alle Comete 2017 Stupore (Bolgheri). Batzella 2011 Tam (Bolgheri). Made with abv: 14% Price: $25 91 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and 89 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot features alluring aromas evoking cassis, this has subdued aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, Donne Fittipaldi 2017 Bolgheri. This blend black-skinned berry and underbrush. The concen- cedar, oak and underbrush. The warm, evolved pal- 88 of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, trated palate offers black plum, tobacco and mocha ate offers blackberry jam, toasted oak and staranise ­ Merlot and Petit Verdot has subtle aromas recall- alongside polished tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. alongside forward tannins. Total Wine & More. ing mature dark-skinned fruit, graphite and baking abv: 14% Price: $40 —K.O. spice. The straightforward palate offers black plum, abv: 15% Price: $45 tobacco and coconut alongside pliant tannins. Votto Guado al Tasso 2017 Cont’Ugo Merlot Vines Importing. —K.O. 91 (Bolgheri).­ Aromas of dark-skinned berry, Campo alla Sughera 2017 Adeo (Bolgheri). abv: 14% Price: $20 coconut and oak-driven spice shape the nose on 89 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this 100% Merlot. Reflecting the nose, the full- this has aromas of bell pepper, toasted oak and ripe Campo al Mare 2018 Baia al Vento (Bolgheri). bodied palate offers licorice, dried black cherry, dark-skinned fruit. The mature palate shows black- 87 This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and espresso and the warmth of evident alcohol. Firm, berry jam, roasted coffee bean and vanilla alongside Petit Verdot has aromas of toasted oak, bell pepper fine-grained tannins provide the framework. Ste. grainy tannins. The Hirsch Collection. —K.O. and vanilla. The densely concentrated, monolithic Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 palate offers roasted coffee bean, prune and coconut abv: 14.5% Price: $55 alongside assertive tannins and the heat of evident Podere Sapaio 2017 Volpolo (Bolgheri). A alcohol. Kobrand. —K.O. Banfi 2017 Aska (Bolgheri). This blend of 89 blend of organically farmed Cabernet Sau- abv: 15.5% Price: $NA 90 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this opens with opens with aromas of dark-skinned berry, leather aromas suggesting cassis, leather and cedar. The Casa di Terra 2017 Mosaico Merlot (Bolgheri).­ and a whiff of mocha. The juicy, balanced palate dense palate offers Marasca cherry, roasted coffee 87 Made with Merlot, this opens with aromas­ delivers blackberry jam, star anise and tobacco bean and bitter almond set against close-grained of coconut, graphite and mature black plum. Show- alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through tannins. Lyra Wine. —K.O. ing the heat of the vintage, the evolved palate 2024. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 presents prune, dark chocolate and roasted coffee abv: 14% Price: $33 bean alongside close-grained tannins. Drink sooner Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Noi 4 (Bolgheri). A rather than later to capture the remaining fruit. Guado al Melo 2017 Rute (Bolgheri). Made 89 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit de ­Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. 90 with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this has subtle aromas­ abv: 14% Price: $38 opens with aromas of black-skinned berry, under- suggesting dark fruit, baking spice and cedar. The brush and thyme. The juicy, balanced palate pres- tightly wound palate evokes prune, espresso, Podere 7 2018 L’Invidio (Bolgheri). A blend ents licorice, blackberry jam and mocha alongside ­toasted oak and sage alongside assertive tannins. 87 of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caber- fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2025. Nicola Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. net Franc, this opens with aromas evoking ripe dark ­Biscardo Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 berry, scorched earth and mocha. The aromas carry abv: 14% Price: $35 over to the straightforward palate along with star Batzella 2017 Pean (Bolgheri). This solid anise and pliant tannins. Votto Vines Importing. Guado al Tasso 2018 Il Bruciato (Bolgheri). 88 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah —K.O. 90 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot opens with aromas of ripe black plum, mocha and abv: 14% Price: $23 and Syrah opens with aromas of cassis, underbrush coconut. The dense, brawny palate offers raisin, and tobacco. The savory, balanced palate offers espresso and tobacco alongside chewy tannins. Podere Prospero 2016 Bolgheri. This blend of blackberry, clove and white pepper alongside pol- ­Total Wine & More. —K.O. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and ­Cabernet ished tannins. Drink through 2025. Ste. Michelle abv: 15% Price: $28 Franc has subdued aromas suggesting mature dark- Wine Estates. —K.O. skinned fruit and cooking spice. The dense palate abv: 14% Price: $31 Caccia al Piano 1868 2017 Ruit Hora evokes prune, mocha and toasted oak alongside 88 (Bolgheri).­ A blend of Merlot, Cabernet tightly wound, rather astringent tannins. —K.O. Ornellaia 2017 Le Serre Nuove (Bolgheri). A Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this has aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $46 90 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab- of ripe dark fruit, sunbaked soil and a whiff of cedar. ernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this opens with aro- The medium-bodied, easygoing palate shows mature­ mas of violet, tobacco and green peppercorn. The black plum and mocha alongside supple ­tannins. MAREMMA TOSCANA savory, youthfully tense palate offers black plum, Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. licorice, toasted oak and mocha alongside fine- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Le Mortelle 2016 Poggio alle Nane (Maremma grained tannins. Vintus LLC. —K.O. 91 Toscana). Made with Cabernet Franc, Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $82 Campo al Mare 2018 Bolgheri. This blend net Sauvignon and Carménère, this opens with dark 88 of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet berry, Mediterranean scrub and leather aromas. It’s Poggio al Tesoro 2017 Il Seggio (Bolgheri). Franc and Petit Verdot offers aromas of scorched savory and balanced, delivering blackberry-jam, 90 For full review see page 16. earth, ripe black-skinned berry and toasted almond. tobacco and cooking-spice flavors alongside fine- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 The mature palate conveys blackberry jam, espresso grained tannins. Enjoy 2021–2028. Ste. Michelle and clove alongside chewy tannins. Kobrand. —K.O. Wine Estates. —K.O. Batzella 2013 Tam (Bolgheri). This blend abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $70 89 of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows subdued aromas of mature dark fruit, toasted Casa di Terra 2018 Moreccio (Bolgheri). A Prelius 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma oak and tobacco leaf. The ripe, burly palate offers­ 88 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and 91 Toscana). Made with organically grown Syrah, this opens with aromas of ripe dark-skinned grapes, this Cabernet Sauvignon opens with invit-

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 ing aromas of cassis, underbrush and mint. The La Selva 2015 (Maremma Toscana).­ aromas emerge from the glass. The soft juicy pal- ­savory, polished palate features black currant, lico- 90 Aromas of red berries, violet and leather ate offers black cherry, graphite and white pepper rice and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. lead the nose on this medium-bodied red. Made alongside supple tannins. Drink through 2023. Drink through 2026. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. entirely with organically grown Ciliegiolo grapes, ID Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18 the juicy palate offers raspberry preserves, clove abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and cinnamon alongside pliant tannins. Omniwines Rocca di Frassinello 2016 Baffonero Merlot Distribution. —K.O. Fattoria di Magliano 2016 Altizi Cabernet 91 (Maremma Toscana). This Merlot opens with abv: 13.5% Price: $26 89 Franc (Maremma Toscana). Made with aromas of ripe dark fruit, cedar and mocha. The ­organically farmed Cabernet Franc, this has aromas structured palate reflects the nose, offering ripe Mazzei 2016 Belguardo Tirrenico (Maremma of bell pepper, bay leaf and dark berry. The savory blackberry, espresso, coconut and plum jam along- 90 Toscana). Made with 65% Cabernet Sauvi- palate offers black plum, mocha and clove alongside side fine-grained tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. gnon, 20% Alicante, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% chewy tannins. Drink through 2022. Opici Wines. abv: 14.5% Price: $240 Petit Verdot, this opens with aromas evoking dark- —K.O. skinned berry, underbrush and vanilla. The savory abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Basile 2015 Comandante (Maremma palate offers cassis, mocha and black pepper along- 90 Toscana).­ Made with organically grown side chewy tannins. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. Fattoria di Magliano 2015 Perenzo Syrah Sangiovese (95%) and Merlot (5%), this opens abv: 13.5% Price: $30 89 (Maremma Toscana). This Syrah has dark- with aromas of cedar, ripe dark-skinned fruit and skinned berry, Mediterranean brush and bay leaf underbrush. The elegantly structured palate offers Mazzei 2016 Tenuta Belguardo (Maremma aromas. The medium-bodied palate evokes black- dried black cherry, licorice and white almond along- 90 Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon currant jam, star anise and tobacco alongside side polished tannins. Golden Ram Imports. —K.O. and Cabernet Franc, this opens with aromas of ­polished tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 mocha, ripe dark-skinned fruit and coconut. The abv: 13% Price: $NA concentrated palate shows toasted oak, roasted cof- Casteani 2017 Marujo Syrah (Maremma fee bean and blackberry jam alongside firm, fine- Fattoria di Magliano 2014 Poggio Bestiale 90 Toscana).­ Fermented and aged in terra- grained tannins. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. 89 (Maremma Toscana). A blend of Merlot, cotta amphorae, this Syrah opens with aromas of abv: 14% Price: $60 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit black-skinned berry, scorched earth and cooking ­Verdot, this opens with aromas of dark-skinned spice. The savory palate offers ripe black currant, Podere San Cristoforo 2018 Amaranto San- berry, cedar and tobacco. The firm palate offers licorice and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. 90 giovese (Maremma Toscana). Made entirely blackberry jam, clove and licorice alongside chewy Drink through 2025. ID Beverage Group. —K.O. with organically grown Sangiovese, this opens with tannins. Drink through 2022. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 aromas evoking mature red berry, cedar and Medi- abv: 14% Price: $60 terranean brush. The juicy palate offers raspberry Fattoria di Magliano 2015 Sinarra ­Sangiovese jam, red cherry and white pepper alongside fresh Podere La Pace 2016 Pittoresco (Maremma 90 (Maremma Toscana). Made with organically­ acidity and pliant tannins. Drink through 2023. 89 Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, farmed Sangiovese, this offers aromas of red berry, Planet Wine. —K.O. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this ­offers leather and Mediterranean brush. The lively, juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $22 aromas of cassis, Mediterranean brush and leather. palate features red cherry, crushed raspberry and The juicy palate shows blackberry jam, star anise and clove alongside velvety tannins. Drink through 2023. Podere San Cristoforo 2018 Carandelle tobacco set in polished tannins. 4Front Imports,­ LLC. Opici Wines. —K.O. 90 ­Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). This —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA ­organically farmed Sangiovese has aromas of red abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ­berry, cedar and cooking spice. The savory palate Fattoria Mantellassi 2016 Querciolaia ­offers sour cherry, tobacco and toasted oak alongside Rocca di Frassinello 2017 Le Sughere di Fra- 90 ­Alicante (Maremma Toscana). Made entirely fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2024. Planet 89 ssinello (Maremma Toscana). Made with with Alicante, this shows aromas of rose petal, red Wine. —K.O. Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this berry and Mediterranean scrub. The bright palate abv: 13.5% Price: $30 offers aromas of dark-skinned fruit, espresso and offers red cherry, star anise and clove alongside cedar. The dense palate presents blackberry jam, velvety tannins. Drink through 2023. Total Wine & Prelius 2015 Prile (Maremma Toscana). A coconut and espresso alongside smooth tannins. More. —K.O. 90 blend of organically grown Cabernet Sau- Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 vignon, Sangiovese and Merlot, this offers dark abv: 14.5% Price: $22 berry, toasted oak and mocha aromas. The dense Fertuna 2015 Messiio Merlot (Maremma palate delivers blackberry jam, espresso and clove Rocca di Frassinello 2017 Maremma Toscana. 90 Toscana).­ This Merlot opens with ­aromas alongside firm tannins. Drink through 2024. Wilson 89 Aromas of black-skinned berry, underbrush of black-skinned fruit, leather and cedar. The savory­ Daniels Ltd. —K.O. and espresso lead the nose on this blend of Sangio- palate offers ripe black plum, mocha and licorice abv: 14.5% Price: $56 vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Mirroring the alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2024. nose, the solid, concentrated palate offers ripe black Dark Star Imports. —K.O. Tenuta Moraia 2016 Sangiovese (Maremma plum, tobacco and roasted coffee bean alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 Toscana). Forest-berry and violet aromas firm tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. shape the nose on this bright blend of 90% San- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 La Selva 2018 Maremma Toscana. Made with giovese and 10% Alicante. On the smooth, medium- 90 organically farmed Sangiovese and Alicante bodied palate, polished tannins and fresh acidity Val delle Rose 2016 Aurelio (Maremma grapes, this opens with inviting scents of red berry, offer lithe support and balance for raspberry, black 89 Toscana).­ A blend of Merlot and Cabernet­ baking spice and white pepper. The juicy, approach- cherry and a hint of star anise. Foley Family Wines. Sauvignon, this shows aromas of black plum, mocha­ able palate offers red cherry, crushed ­raspberry —K.O. and baking spice. The juicy palate offers blackberry­ and clove alongside velvety tannins. Omniwines abv: 14% Price: $32 jam, pipe tobacco and toasted notes alongside ­Distribution. —K.O. smooth tannins. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18 Casteani 2015 Sessanta (Maremma Toscana).­ abv: 13.5% Price: $30 89 Forest-floor, red-berry and baking-spice

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Val delle Rose 2016 Cabernet Franc evokes blackberry jam, licorice and clove alongside The forward palate evokes dried black cherry, star 89 (Maremma­ Toscana). This Cabernet Franc firm tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. anise and vanilla alongside smooth tannins. Vias opens with aromas reminiscent of dark fruit, bay abv: 14% Price: $30 Imports. —K.O. leaf and baking spice. The dense, round palate offers abv: 14.5% Price: $19 prune, clove and espresso alongside chewy tannins. Le Mortelle 2017 Botrosecco (Maremma Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 88 Toscana).­ This blend of Cabernet Sau­vignon Santa Lucia 2016 Betto (Maremma T­oscana). abv: 14.5% Price: $45 and Cabernet Franc has aromas evoking ripe black 88 Aromas of leather, cedar and dark berry take plum and baking spice. The aromas follow through center stage on this blend of Sangiovese, ­Merlot Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2018 to the straightforward palate along with licorice and and Cabernet Sauvignon. The forward palate offers 89 Capoccia (Maremma Toscana). This blend mocha set against solid tannins. Ste. Michelle Wine ­mature black plum, roasted coffee bean and bell pep- of Ciliegiolo and Alicante offers aromas evoking red Estates. —K.O. per alongside firm tannins. Fantastik Imports. —K.O. berry, cooking spice and tilled soil. The medium- abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $30 bodied palate shows Morello cherry, star anise and white pepper alongside smooth tannins. Conexport Podere La Pace 2015 Black Label (Maremma Villa Pinciana 2013 Terraria (Maremma Italy. —K.O. 88 Toscana). Made with Cabernet Sauvignon, 88 Toscana).­ A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $18 Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this has Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this has aromas of ripe aromas of prune, tilled soil and graphite. The aro- dark-skinned fruit, green peppercorn and an earthy Villa Vallemaggiore 2016 Poggio Re mas carry over to the dense palate alongside chewy whiff of game. The savory palate offers blackberry 89 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). tannins and the heat of evident alcohol. 4Front jam, tobacco and a hint of black pepper alongside Made entirely­ with Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens ­Imports, LLC. —K.O. smooth tannins. Bluest Sky Group. —K.O. with aromas of tobacco, cassis and cedar. The savory abv: 15.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 palate offers black plum, clove and mocha alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2023. Wines LLC. Podere La Pace 2015 Gold Label Cabernet Santa Lucia 2018 Losco (Maremma Toscana). —K.O. 88 Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Entirely 87 Made with Sangiovese and Petit Verdot, this abv: 14% Price: $40 made with Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with easygoing red opens with red fruit, graphite and sunbaked earth, toasted oak and mature black- ­underbrush aromas. The straightforward palate Bruni 2018 Poggio d’Elsa (Maremma Tos- skinned fruit aromas. The ripe palate offers prune, ­offers red plum and baking spice alongside smooth 88 cana). Made with 45% Sangiovese, 45% licorice and mocha alongside assertive tannins. tannins. Fantastik Imports. —K.O. Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, this 4Front Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17 has aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit and cook- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ing spice. The straightforward palate offers black Tenuta L’impostino 2016 Ottava Rima ­currant, nutmeg and vanilla alongside solid tannins. Podere Montale 2015 Cinque Vigne Sangio- 87 (Maremma Toscana). Made with Sangiovese­ Enjoy soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. 88 vese (Maremma Toscana). This Sangiovese and Alicante, this has red-berry, exotic spice and abv: 14% Price: $15 has aromas of ripe black plum and vanilla. The underbrush aromas. The medium-bodied, straight- rather evolved palate offers raisin, star anise and forward palate offers raspberry, clove and sage Bruni 2016 Oltreconfine Grenache coconut alongside pliant tannins. Allied Beverage alongside flexible tannins. Tita Italian Import & 88 (Maremma Toscana). Dark-skinned berry Group. —K.O. ­Export. —K.O. and Mediterranean brush aromas take center stage. abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 The smooth palate offers dried black cherry, clove and white pepper alongside rounded tannins. Drink Rascioni e Cecconello 2018 Maremmino San- Fattoria Mantellassi 2018 Il Canneto San- though 2022. Vias Imports. —K.O. 88 giovese (Maremma Toscana). Made with 86 giovese (Maremma Toscana). Made with abv: 14% Price: $28 organically farmed Sangiovese, this has red-berry, Sangiovese, this easygoing red has subdued aromas Mediterranean scrub and cooking spice aromas. The of baking spice and red berry. The tangy, simple Casteani 2015 Terra di Casteani (Maremma juicy, accessible palate offers sour cherry, star anise palate offers sour cherry and clove alongside round 88 Toscana). Aromas of dark-skinned berry and white pepper alongside velvety tannins. Enjoy it tannins. Drink soon. Total Wine & More. —K.O. and Mediterranean herb slowly emerge from the soon. Premium Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $12 glass. The tight palate offers mature Marasca ­cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 dried sage and coconut alongside dusty, rather ­astringent tannins. ID Beverage Group. —K.O. Ribusieri 2017 Solaura Sangiovese (Maremma­ TOSCANA abv: 14.5% Price: $32 88 Toscana). Red-berry, tilled soil and leather aromas form the nose while the straightforward pal- Marchesi Antinori 2016 Tignanello (Toscana). Fattoria Mantellassi 2017 Punton del Sorbo ate offers Marasca cherry, tobacco and baking spice. 99 For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Round tannins offer light support. Blue Ice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $135 Made entirely with Cabernet Sauvignon, this has abv: 13.5% Price: $27 aromas of black-skinned fruit and baking spice. The Castello dei Rampolla 2015 Sammarco robust palate shows toasted oak, vanilla and black- Rocca di Frassinello 2017 Ornello (Maremma 98 (Toscana).­ Sunbaked earth, mature black- berry jam alongside rounded tannins. Total Wine & 88 Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, plum, fragrant blue-flower and leather aromas min- More. —K.O. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this has aromas gle with balsamic whiffs of camphor on this full- abv: 14% Price: $18 ripe dark fruit, leather and mocha. The dense pal- bodied, delicious red. Made with 65% Cabernet ate shows mature black currant, espresso and clove Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese, the Guicciardini Strozzi 2017 Momi (Maremma alongside assertive tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. creamy palate is earthy and full of flavor, boasting 88 Toscana). Made with Sangiovese, Petit abv: 14.5% Price: $28 juicy blackberry, raspberry, dried mint, cocoa and Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano licorice. Taut velvety tannins provide plenty of sup- d’, this suggests aromas of ripe dark-skinned Rocca di Frassinello 2017 Poggio alla Guardia port and finesse. Drink through 2035. Vias Imports. fruit, sunbaked earth and hay. The dense palate 88 (Maremma Toscana). Made with Sangio- Cellar Selection. —K.O. vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA mas of dark fruit, scorched soil and cooking spice.

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Le Macchiole 2016 Paleo Rosso Cabernet Banfi 2016 Summus (Toscana). For full graphite. The savory palate offers blackberry jam, 97 Franc (Toscana). Made entirely with Caber­ 94 review see page 5. tobacco and espresso alongside fine-grained tan- net Franc, this radiant red opens with intense aromas abv: 14% Price: $80 nins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Shaw-Ross of black currant, Mediterranean scrub, blue flower International Importers. —K.O. and camphor aromas. On the supremely elegant­ pal- Castello dei Rampolla 2015 D’Alceo abv: 14.5% Price: $85 ate, supple tannins and bright acidity accompany­ 94 (Toscana).­ Truffle, leather, crushed violet, cassis, black raspberry, crushed herb and licorice ­mature blueberry and molten chocolate aromas Tenuta Sette Cieli 2016 Scipio Cabernet Franc before a cedar finish. It’s smooth, radiant and deli- meld together on this full-bodied red. A savory, 91 (Toscana). This Cabernet Franc opens with cious, with great energy. Drink 2022–2036. Vintus earthy blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% dark-skinned berry, bell pepper and tobacco aro- LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Petit Verdot, the smooth palate offers mature blue- mas. The savory, balanced palate features juicy black abv: 14% Price: $120 berry, blackberry and clove aromas punctuated with currant, mocha and licorice alongside fine-grained hints of game. Velvety tannins provide polished tannins. Drink through 2025. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Marchesi Antinori 2016 Solaia (Toscana). For support. Drink through 2025. Vias Imports. —K.O. —K.O. 97 full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 14% Price: $330 Fontodi 2016 Dino Sangiovese (Toscana). Banfi 2016 Magna Cum Laude (Toscana). Banfi 2016 Excelsus (Toscana). For full 93 Made entirely with Sangiovese and vinified 90 For full review see page 14. 96 review see page 4. Cellar Selection. and aged in clay amphora, this intriguing red has abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $90 continuously evolving aromas that include scorched earth, truffle, leather and baked plum. Full bodied Campo di Sasso 2018 Insoglio del Cinghiale­ Le Macchiole 2016 Scrio Syrah (Toscana). and enveloping, the warm, structured palate deliv- 90 (Toscana). Aromas of black-skinned fruit 96 Cedar, cassis, camphor and French oak ers prune, dried black cherry, ground pepper and a and ­culinary spice waft out of the glass. It’s ­linear, aromas lead the nose on this 100% Syrah. The full- mineral note alongside tightly knit, velvety tannins. velvety and ready to be enjoyed, offering cassis, bodied palate features ripe blackberry, raspberry You’ll also detect the warmth of alcohol on the mid- black plum, clove and pepper notes framed in pol- jam, dark exotic spice, dried mint and espresso palate and the finish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. ished tannins. Drink through 2022. Kobrand. —K.O. alongside tightly-knit fine-grained tannins. It’s well abv: 15% Price: $74 abv: 14% Price: $35 balanced, with fresh acidity that lifts the licorice close. Drink 2022–2031. Vintus LLC. —K.O. Le Macchiole 2016 Messorio Merlot (Toscana). Geografico 2016 Contessa di Radda abv: 14.5% Price: $190 93 Cedar, camphor, French oak and cassis aro- 90 (Toscana).­ Made with 90% Merlot, 5% mas are front and center. Mirroring the nose, the Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, this Tenuta di Biserno 2016 Biserno (Toscana). firm full-bodied palate offers coconut, roasted cof- offers aromas of cedar, cassis and violet. On the 96 Aromas of cedar, cassis, camphor and oak- fee bean, dried blackberry and vanilla along with ­linear, medium-bodied palate, espresso and toasted driven spice are front and center on this fragrant, notes of grilled green bell pepper. Assertive, close notes accent dried black cherry and blackberry full-bodied red. On the precise, savory palate, firm, grained tannins provide the framework and gener- while tightly-knit, close-grained tannins give firm elegant tannins offer polished support for juicy red ate a clenching, mouthdrying finish. Give the tan- ­support and a drying finish. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. berry, licorice and tobacco while fresh acidity keeps nins several years to unwind. Drink 2023–2031. abv: 14% Price: $25 it balanced. It’s young but already shows an impres- Vintus LLC. —K.O. sive depth of flavors. Drink 2021–2031. Kobrand. abv: 14.5% Price: $260 Piccini 2016 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). A Cellar Selection. —K.O. 90 blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Le Mortelle 2016 Ampio delle Mortelle Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, this offers enticing 93 (Toscana).­ Enticing aromas of cassis, black- scents of fragrant blue flower, mature black-skinned Masseto 2016 Merlot (Toscana). Subtle skinned berry, graphite and eucalyptus take cen- berry and whiffs of camphor. All about understated 95 ­aromas of underbrush, cedar, camphor and ter stage on this Carménère, Cabernet Franc and elegance, the bright, linear palate features Marasca cassis waft out of the glass along with a whiff of blue ­Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The concentrated, bal- cherry, red currant and star anise alongside lithe flower. The firmly structured, full-bodied palate anced palate doles out black plum jam, star anise, tannins and fresh acidity. It closes on an almond offers dried cherry, black currant jam, grilled sage cocoa and vanilla alongside fine-grained tannins. note. Foley Family Wines. —K.O. and espresso alongside tightly-knit close-grained Enjoy 2022–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. abv: 14% Price: $30 tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth of evident —K.O. alcohol on the close but the rich fruit stands up to abv: 14.5% Price: $180 Tenuta di Biserno 2017 Il Pino (Toscana). it. Vintus LLC. —K.O. 90 Made with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Caber- abv: 15% Price: $814 Brancaia 2016 Ilatraia (Toscana). For full net Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this full-bodied red 92 review see page 9. features aromas of black-skinned berry, tobacco and Monteraponi 2015 Baron’Ugo (Toscana). abv: 14% Price: $65 new leather. The structured palate offers ripe black 95 Made in high-altitude vineyards, this fra- plum, licorice and espresso alongside fine-grained grant red is fresher than most of the region’s wines Frescobaldi 2016 Giramonte (Toscana). tannins. Kobrand. —K.O. from the hot 2015 vintage. It opens with enticing 92 ­Aromas of black-skinned berry, mocha, blue abv: 14.5% Price: $61 aromas of red berry, pressed rose, pipe tobacco, wild flower and cedar form the nose on this Merlot and herb and underbrush while the radiant, linear pal- Sangiovese blend. The savory full-bodied palate Tenuta Sette Cieli 2016 Indaco (Toscana). ate delivers sour cherry, red currant, star anise and delivers black currant, clove, espresso and licorice 90 A blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet white pepper. Bright acidity and taut, fine-grained alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. Sauvignon, this presents aromas of dark-skinned provide balance and support. It’s still youthfully Shaw-Ross International Importers. —K.O. berry, underbrush and cedar. The dense palate austere but will age beautifully. Drink 2022–2035. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 offers toasted oak, black currant jam and licorice set Grand Cru Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. against assertive, rather astringent tannins. You’ll abv: 13.5% Price: $80 Frescobaldi 2016 Mormoreto (Toscana). Made also notice the warmth of evident alcohol. Drink 91 with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, through 2025. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. Petit Verdot and Sangiovese, this opens with attrac- abv: 15% Price: $85 tive aromas of black-skinned berry, underbrush and

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Banfi 2016 Belnero (Toscana). A blend of cherry, tangerine zest and tobacco alongside taut crisp, underlying acidity and floral aromatics in 89 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot,­­­ tannins. Vintus LLC. —K.O. this impressive white. A depth of pear and brioche this has aromas of dark-skinned fruit, cooking spice abv: 14.5% Price: $34 builds on the palate, developing length and breadth and leather. The juicy palate offers blackberry jam, that last and highlight the finish of dried herb and tobacco and mocha alongside firm ­tannins. Banfi Tenuta Sette Cieli 2018 Yantra (Toscana). ginger. —V.B. Vintners. —K.O. 88 Aromas of baking spice, scorched earth and abv: 14.3% Price: $125 abv: 14% Price: $29 tobacco slowly emerge from the glass on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The firm palate Seabold Cellars 2018 Olson Prunetucky Brancaia 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Toscana).­ offers sour cherry, toasted oak and clove alongside 94 Sands Chardonnay (Monterey). Hints of 89 This Cabernet Sauvignon opens with aro- tightly wound tannins. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. white peach, tangerine peels and sea salt make for mas of mature black fruit, and charred abv: 14% Price: $30 a fresh while lightly savory expression on the nose earth. The dense palate offers spiced blueberry, of this vineyard in the town of Prunedale north of ground pepper and tobacco alongside assertive Banfi 2017 Centine (Toscana). Aromas of ripe ­Salinas. There is a great grip to the palate, where ­tannins. Drink through 2023. E. & J. Gallo. —K.O. 87 dark fruit and baking spice lead the way on dried pear, more brine and delicately toasted nut abv: 14% Price: $NA this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and flavors make the mouthwater. —M.K. Merlot. The juicy, straightforward palate offers abv: 13.1% Price: $40 Campo alle Comete 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- dried black cherry and hints of star anise alongside 89 gnon (Toscana). This Cabernet Sauvignon pliant tannins. Banfi Vintners.Best Buy. —K.O. Whitcraft 2017 Presqu’ile Vineyard Chardon- opens with aromas of mature black plum, Medi- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 94 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Very crisp aromas terranean scrub and leather. The aromas follow of clean lime, light white flowers, ocean spray and through to the forward straightforward palate along crushed macadamia nut show on the nose of this with dried Marasca cherry and pliant tannins. Vias CALIFORNIA bottling by second generation winemaker Drake Imports. —K.O. Whitcraft. It grips the palate with grapefruit-peel abv: 14% Price: $25 CHARDONNAY and orange-rind flavors, as white-fleshed fruit fla- vors arise in the midpalate and salinity returns for Fattoria Aldobrandesca 2017 Vie Cave Mal- Alpha Omega 2016 Drew Vineyard Chardon- the finish. —M.K. 89 bec (Toscana). Made entirely with Malbec, 95 nay (Mount Veeder). Creamy vanilla and abv: 12.73% Price: $50 this has aromas suggesting violet, leather and graph- buttered toast topped in almond greet the nose and ite. The juicy palate offers dried black cherry, cocoa palate of this elegant and gorgeously complex white Grgich Hills 2016 Estate Grown Chardonnay and vanilla alongside velvety tannins. Ste. Michelle wine from the high-elevation site. Integrated, floral 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Wine Estates. —K.O. and robust in pineapple and pear, it melds together Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with ease, leading to an exotic, spicy and herbal abv: 14.1% Price: $43 f­inish. —V.B. Frescobaldi 2017 Castiglioni (Toscana). abv: 14.1% Price: $125 La Crema 2017 Saralee’s Vineyard Chardonnay 89 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, 93 (Russian River Valley). From the great estate Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, this has aromas of Scar of the Sea 2017 Block 11 Bien Nacido in the heart of the appellation, this white is richly black-skinned berry, Mediterranean brush and cook- 95 Vineyard Mount Eden Clone Chardonnay developed in succulent flavors of pear, pineapple ing spice. The medium-bodied palate shows black- (Santa Maria Valley). Scratched lime peel, freshly and melon. Balanced acidity boosts the fruit and currant jam, tobacco and vanilla alongside polished sliced Valencia orange and a line of steely minerality integrated oak, with touches of nutmeg spice and tannins. Shaw-Ross International Importers.­ —K.O. make for an intriguing set of aromas that smell very jasmine that last on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $22 alive and appealing on the nose of this bottling. The abv: 13.8% Price: $45 palate is wrapped in extreme tension and exuberant Frescobaldi 2015 Lamaione Merlot (Toscana).­ energy, offering light brushes of exoticlemon, ­ Asian Paratus 2018 Chardonnay (Mount Veeder). 89 This Merlot has aromas of violet, bay pear and cherimoya, all dusted with more savory sea 93 A richness of brioche tangles through a core leaf and cedar. The concentrated palate offers salt. —M.K. of toasted oak, hazelnut and honey in this viscous, ­blackberry jam, roasted coffee bean and toasted oak abv: 12.8% Price: $46 complex and ultimately balanced wine. Juicy on the alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. Shaw- midpalate in green apple, it offers structure and Ross ­International Importers. —K.O. Alpha Omega 2016 Chardonnay (Napa uplifted acidity throughout, with hints of dried herb abv: 14.5% Price: $88 94 Valley).­ Crisp and seamless with high- and ginger. —V.B. toned, floral aromatics, this appellation white offers abv: 13.8% Price: $50 Masseto 2017 Massetino Merlot (Toscana). a focused palate of classic elegance and fixating fla- 89 Aromas evoking cocoa, violet, toast and vors of pear and apple. Medium bodied and in bal- Scar of the Sea 2017 Seven Leagues Char- baked plum slowly take shape in the glass. While ance, it is memorably textured and delicious. —V.B. 93 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Struck stone, the name translates to “Little Masseto,” this ripe abv: 14.3% Price: $80 white flowers, warm pastry and light cream ele- brawny wine is anything but little, evoking roasted ments all play on the complex nose of this appel- coffee bean, ground clove, coconut and dried Alpha Omega 2016 Reserve Chardonnay lation blend. There is a lemon-zest snap to the sip, cherry set against assertive, close-grained tannins. 94 (Napa Valley). This is a creamy, lush and which then warms up toward flaky pastry-dough It reflects the extreme heat of the vintage, with balanced reserve-worthy white that is ripe in oak and sea salt flavors. —M.K. scorching alcohol that dominates the clenching fin- and body weight. Intensely flavored, it offers texture abv: 12.5% Price: $38 ish and throws it off balance. Give the tannins a few and length for days, with strong elements of baked years to unwind. Vintus LLC. —K.O. pear, apple, fig and licorice that meld effortlessly Seabold Cellars 2017 Simpatico Ranch Char- abv: 15.5% Price: $335 within the fresh, uplifting acidity. —V.B. 93 donnay (Bennett Valley). From old vine abv: 14.1% Price: $155 Wente clone grapes, this bottling begins with aro- Ornellaia 2017 Le Volte (Toscana). Subdued mas of sourdough toast, seared mandarin orange 88 aromas of cassis and Mediterranean scrub Alpha Omega 2016 Toyon Vineyard Char- rind, sharp lime skin and preserved lemon on the emerge from the glass. The firm palate offers sour 94 donnay (Carneros). Rich, concentrated tex- nose. There is a zesty snap to the sip, which gives ture and a taste of toasted butter combine around

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 way to more broad flavors of roasted apple before ons as well as pastry dough on the nose. The palate nuts and seared citrus riding a grippy acidity and returning to the zesty citrus tones. —M.K. mixes that citrusy kick, including dried lemon-peel richer, slightly viscous texture. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 ­flavors, alongside more savory tones of hazelnut and abv: 14.5% Price: $44 marcona almond. —M.K. Jess and Jules 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 14.1% Price: $24 The Calling 2017 Sullivan Vineyard Dutton 92 County). A well-made wine that over­ 91 Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). delivers on its price, this is creamy in pear and rich, Derby 2018 Derbyshire Vineyard Chardonnay This is a smooth, salty and textured white wine, bal- rounded texture, complete and gracefully struc- 91 (San Luis Obispo County). Ripe apple and anced and complex in nature, that shows an array tured. A hint of flint gives it a stony mineral com- pear aromas are clean and classic on the nose, as of aromas and flavors. Quince, passion fruit, green ponent that works well in contrast to the fruit, fin- are the lemon juice, honeysuckle and white-peach apple and Meyer lemon appear across a widely ishing in a burst of nutmeg. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. tones. The wine, from an ocean-view vineyard near appealing, layered palate that finishes in baking abv: 13.9% Price: $27 San Simeon, makes a zesty and energetic landing spice. —V.B. on the palate, delivering­ fresh and lively flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Lava Cap 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (El tuberose and pear. —M.K. 92 Dorado).­ For full review see page 10. abv: 14% Price: $30 The Calling 2016 Searby Vineyard Chardon- abv: 14.2% Price: $24 91 nay (Russian River Valley). Robust Meyer Joyce 2018 Submarine Canyon Chardonnay lemon flavors exude from this fleshy and lush white Odonata 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey 91 (Monterey). Broad aromas of cut apple and wine, laced in acidity and modest oak, that reveals 92 County).­ Crisp yellow pear, nectarine flesh pear combine with chalk and ripe grapefruit rind on full-bodied richness within a context of balance. and a touch of chalk show on the clean and pure the nose of this bottling. There is solid tension on Touches of nutmeg, lemongrass and white flower nose of this extremely well-priced bottling, which the palate that holds up against the ripe Anjou pear permeate through a long finish. —V.B. competes with wines produced in this crisp style at and green-melon flavors, with a tight acidity that abv: 13.5% Price: $51 a much higher price point. Pithy lemon and white- goes long into the finish. —M.K. rock flavors are framed by a chalky texture on the abv: 13.4% Price: $25 Whitcraft 2017 Pence Ranch Chardonnay (Sta. palate, which finishes with a touch of pastry dough. 91 Rita Hills). Lemon preserves on toast, wet Editors’ Choice. —M.K. La Crema 2017 Chardonnay (Russian River stone and early spring flowers show on the nose of abv: 14.3% Price: $25 91 ­Valley). Steely and crisp in melon, apple and this bottling. There is a toasty quality to the sip, nectarine, this white is integrated in oak with a hint which is clean and linear in structure, without any- Pfendler 2018 Estate Grown Chardonnay of rich brioche and vanilla. Long and lengthy, it has thing flashy. —M.K. 92 (Petaluma Gap). From the producer’s hill- well-integrated acidity that keeps it fresh in the abv: 13.04% Price: $50 side vineyards, this white is cloudy and tart, with a glass despite its hearty concentration. —V.B. light oak presence of toast and baking spice. Thick, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Au Contraire 2018 Chardonnay (Russian rich brioche underlies an exotic palate of dried herb, 90 River Valley). This is a steely, intensely fla- melon and peach, with just a tease of honey. —V.B. La Crema 2017 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay vored wine, with elements of vanilla oak and layers abv: 14.2% Price: $45 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). This wine has a creamy of stone fruit, green apple and mango. It offers good midpalate of robust apple and pear that includes value and well-integrated acidity. —V.B. Rexford 2017 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay nuanced oak and balanced weight. White-flower abv: 14.2% Price: $21 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite light in the and jasmine aromas permeate throughout, making glass, this wine from one of the more promising for a pretty experience­ of grace and elegant texture, Black Stallion 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Val- vineyards in the appellation combines lime pith, which finishes in crisp melon. —V.B. 90 ley). For full review see page 14. squeezed tangerine, juice and tightly woven abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 oak on the nose. That kiss of wood kicks off the pal- ate, where fresh apple and citrus flavors lead into a Lafond 2017 SRH Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Bold 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey County). sandalwood-laced palate. —M.K. 91 Clean and pristine aromas of seared white 90 Smashed lemon flesh, dried lemon rinds abv: 13.9% Price: $30 peach, roasted apple, hazelnut and toasted oak show and damp wood aromas show on the nose of this on the classic nose of this bottling. The nutty and county blend. Sour lemon and lime tones show on Scar of the Sea 2018 Old Vines Chardonnay citrus flavors are intertwined expertly on the palate, the fresh palate, where there is a decent tension of 92 (Santa Maria Valley). Clean lines of lemon where Marcona almond and lemon-paste elements acidity and structure. —M.K. blossom, lime pith, warm croissant and toasted arise. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $25 oak show on the nose of this old-vine expression. abv: 14.4% Price: $24 The snappy palate combines , rind and Chateau St. Jean 2017 Belle Terre Vineyard preserve flavors with apple flesh and yellow pear. MacRostie 2017 The Key Chardonnay (Sonoma 90 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). A hearty, —M.K. 91 Coast). This is a master blend from the best fruit-forward wine with focused acidity, this white abv: 12.8% Price: $28 barrels of the vintage from many of the best single offers bold flavors of green olive, wet stone and vineyards, which showcases exotic quince, Asian baked pear, the fruit spiced in nutmeg and vanilla. Walt 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). pear and fig. Bright, fresh notions of tangerine With generous oak, it has a creamy richness that 92 Showcasing the myriad of diversities of emphasize the inherent acidity, with a rich creamy persists throughout the midpalate and long finish. the appellation, this wine presents a richness of midpalate along the way. —V.B. —V.B. butter­scotch and vanilla cream on entry, as well as abv: 14.3% Price: $65 abv: 14.8% Price: $35 toasted oak and pineapple. It finds complementary freshness and backbone on the back palate, offering Neely 2017 Bee Block Spring Ridge Vineyard Chateau St. Jean 2017 Cold Creek Ranch ­focused acidity that brightens the day. —V.B. 91 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Dried 90 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). A tropical abv: 14.4% Price: $40 honey, hazelnut paste, lemon rinds and sweet yel- entry is complemented in nutty coconut in this low-onion-skin aromas show on the nose of this well-made, robust white, complex and full bodied in Center of Effort 2017 Effort Chardonnay bottling. The palate is savory in style, with toasted ripeness and oak. A lasting thread of vanilla empha- 91 (Edna Valley). Tightly wound on the nose, this bottling steadily releases aromas of fresh lem-

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BUYINGGUIDE sizes its creamy richness as aromatics of jasmine French oak and stainless steel. Tropically fruity up Calculated Risk 2018 Chardonnay (Napa and apple blossom play out. —V.B. front, it retains an energy and focus throughout. 86 Valley).­ Creamy in rich, tropical flavors and abv: 14.7% Price: $35 —V.B. green-olive aromas, this bold wine has a crispness abv: 13.5% Price: $19 to the midpalate that fades on the finish, letting the Chateau St. Jean 2017 Durell Vineyard Char- vanilla oak more loudly speak. —V.B. 90 donnay (Sonoma Valley). From the famous Charles Krug 2018 Chardonnay (Carneros). abv: 14.2% Price: $45 site, this white is spicy, stony and thickly rich in 88 This likable, approachable wine is juicy tropical fruit. Balanced oak adds weight and inten- in peach, apple and lemon, with a flinty element Francis Coppola 2018 Diamond Collection sity, layering through the creamy midpalate of of stone. Smooth, sleek and rich in body, it finds 86 Chardonnay (California). Lots of dusty, lemon curd and baking spice. —V.B. ­balance on the bright finish. —V.B. toasty oak comes through in the aroma, while the abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 14.4% Price: $21 flavors turn to baked, spiced apples. It’s a medium- bodied wine that’s highly stylized. —J.G. Crawford Family 2018 Tin Shack Spear Vine- Comstock Wines 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 14.1% Price: $14 90 yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean 88 Coast). Steely and floral up front, this wine aromas of lemon rind, wet chalk and light nectarine picks up weight and texture on the midpalate, com- Carpe Diem 2017 Chardonnay (Anderson show on the light nose of this bottling. There is a lot bining sharp stone-fruit and green-apple flavors 84 Valley). This rather sharp-tasting wine of zip and texture to the sip, where more citrus and with oak and creamy opulence. It finishes in a full- has a strong matchstick aroma that persists in the white-rock flavors arise. —M.K. bodied lushness. —V.B. glass. The flavors are more appetizing crisp apple abv: 13.8% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 and pear. Medium body and acidity dominate the mouthfeel. —J.G. Marimar 2018 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Foley Johnson 2017 Chardonnay (Carneros). abv: 13.5% Price: $23 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full 88 Exuberant in fig, honey and buttercream, review see page 15. this is a fully ripe and fleshy white. Robust in oak, the abv: 14.1% Price: $39 wood adds distinct layers of crème brûlée and vanilla SAUVIGNON BLANC that add to the overall richness of approach. —V.B. Neely 2017 Home Block Spring Ridge Vine- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Acumen 2018 Peak Sauvignon Blanc (Atlas 90 yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). 91 Peak). A selection of the best lots and barrels Rounded aromas of seared apple, dried orange peel La Crema 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). of the vintage, this white shines in lemon zest, wet and candied nuts make for a rich entry to the nose 88 Concentrated pear flavor and generous oak stone and melon. Exotic and weighty in creamy oak, of this bottling. Baked apple and more dried citrus combine for an approachable, easygoing experience it offers complexity and full-bodied intensity, with elements show on the palate alongside a marzipan of varietal character in this likable, well-distributed enough acidity to remain fresh on the finish. —V.B. and light caramel touch. —M.K. wine. Melon, peach and Meyer lemon add to the abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.6% Price: $52 fruitiness and balanced weight, the grapes from several vineyard-designated sites. —V.B. Knights Bridge 2018 Fairview Sauvignon Blanc Thirty-Seven 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $23 91 (Knights Valley). For full review see page 12. 90 Coast). High in acidity and crisp, light fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $70 vors of green apple and stone, this white is delight- La Crema 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). fully balanced and complex. Oak takes a back seat, 88 Stony citrus, maple and baking spice com- Chalk Hill 2018 Estate Bottled Sauvignon providing subtle characteristics of baking spice and plement toasted oak in this focused, approachable 90 Blanc (Chalk Hill). For full review see page toast. —V.B. and well-structured white wine. Vineyards from 14. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Saralee’s to Durell figure into the mix, adding tex- abv: 14.5% Price: $33 ture and richness within a likable style. —V.B. Brutocao 2018 Estate Bottled Bliss Chardon- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Cuvaison 2018 Méthode Béton Estate Grown 89 nay (Mendocino). Buttery, oaky flavors min- 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Los Carneros). From the gle with good, ripe fruit and mineral notes in this Olema 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). producer’s own 17 acres, this white is fermented full-bodied and well-balanced wine. It has a feeling 88 Juicy in Meyer lemon and crisp acidity, this in concrete egg and made in small lots, this vintage of ­being sturdy, bold and complete. —J.G. well-made white offers value and approachability, opening in crisp, stony and floral tones of fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $20 eschewing fussiness for up-front fruit and sleek pea, white flower and fig. Lush and full bodied, it is structure. The oak imprint is low and integrated. richly textured with a focused approach to acidity.­ Aratás 2018 Chardonnay (Los Carneros). —V.B. —V.B. 88 This is a full-bodied, fleshy white wine with abv: 13.8% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $40 minimal oak influence that shows layers of pear, mango and fig. Soft and round, it pleases the palate V. Sattui 2017 Chardonnay (Russian River Decoy 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma with its balance and grace. —V.B. 88 Valley). Tasting of lemon crème brûlée, 90 County). For full review see page 14. Edi- abv: 14.4% Price: $39 this is an elegant and structured white wine with tors’ Choice. broad appeal and integrated oak. It finishes creamy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Bliss 2018 Chardonnay (Mendocino). This is in ­vanilla. —V.B. 88 a tasty, well-rounded wine showing ample abv: 13.9% Price: $NA Knights Bridge 2018 KB Estate Sauvignon apple and pear flavors and intriguing accents of 90 Blanc (Knights Valley). For full review see vanilla, nutmeg and butter. Generous and full bod- Borrowed Time 2018 Chardonnay (Lodi). page 15. ied, it should be a crowd-pleaser. —J.G. 86 Pronounced, heavy spice aromas and flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 drench this full-bodied wine with nutmeg, clove and cardamom, coating the poached pear flavors Tortoise Creek 2018 Cuvee Jeane Sauvignon Carol Shelton 2017 Wild Thing Chardonnay underneath. It’s extremely rich. —J.G. 90 Blanc (Central Coast). A range of squeezed 88 (Sonoma County). The producer includes abv: 14% Price: $16 citrus, from tangerine to grapefruit, shows on the small amounts of Marsanne and Viognier in this nose of this bottling alongside apple rinds, struck light crisp white, letting them age in acacia, older stone and green banana. There is compelling ten-

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 sion to the sip, where kiwi flavors are rounded but nose with honeydew, guava and bubblegum aromas. notes while caressing the palate with an ultrasoft crisp—a very reliable bottling each vintage. Best The palate is tense in texture, offering guava-peel and rich mouthfeel. —J.G. Buy. —M.K. and orange-sorbet flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.3% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $68 Toca Madera 2018 Conmigo (Madera). This Belledor 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador 89 full-bodied rich-tasting wine made from 88 County). Grassy and peachy in aroma, VIOGNIER Viognier and Marsanne grapes coats the palate this medium-bodied well-balanced wine shows with subtle honey, floral and vanilla nuances and a lots of fresh citrus and herb flavors and a touch of E16 2018 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard Viognier creamy texture. Very good concentration and a wel- ­minerality. —J.G. 91 (El Dorado). Beautiful orange-blossom and coming, broad mouthfeel add to its appeal. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $24 honeysuckle aromas are joined by rich, ripe peach abv: 128% Price: $24 and mango flavors in this effusive, delicious wine. Belledor 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador The mouthfeel is rich and creamy, but nicely bal- ONX 2018 Field Day (Templeton Gap Dis- 86 County). This full-bodied wine feels rich anced by a lime-zest impression of acidity. —J.G. 88 trict). Dried lemon blossoms, citrus rinds and broad in texture, with subdued citrus and apple abv: 14.2% Price: $35 and a hint of quinine show on the nose of this blend flavors and rather soft acidity. —J.G. of 64% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Viognier and 16% abv: 13% Price: $22 Wildeye 2018 Viognier (Central Coast). Grenache Blanc. The palate is tightly wound, offer- 90 Toasty aromas of oak and smoke give a ing ripe melon and peach flavors. —M.K. Matthew Fritz 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (North savory framing to the yellow-peach core on this abv: 14.5% Price: $28 85 Coast). This assertive, medium-bodied bottling. The smoke shows on the sip as well, where wine offers strong earthy, grassy aromas and tart white-peach and dried pineapple flavors also arise. Vindemia 2018 Guy Lemon de Blanc (Santa citrus flavors. It’s good and simple. —J.G. —M.K. 88 Ynez Valley). Very clean lines of lime rind abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and pith meet with more broad melon-flesh and poached pear aromas on the nose of this blend of Frey 2018 Organic Sauvignon Blanc (North McClain Cellars 2017 Open Arms Viognier 70% Grenache­ Blanc and 30% Viognier. Melon and 82 Coast). Crisp and tangy, but also rather 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). This bottling, which tonic flavors show on the palate. Kudos to listing all raw and vegetal in flavor, this rustic, vegan wine is includes 15% Roussanne, is very sharp and crisp winemaking ingredients clearly on the label. —M.K. acceptable as a basic beverage. No sulfites added. on the nose, offering orange-rind, white-peach and abv: 14% Price: $38 —J.G. melon aromas. It’s also penetrating on the sip with abv: 13.7% Price: $14 citrusy edges that cut into the rounded peach, butter Peirano 2017 The Other (Lodi). A pro- and oak flavors. —M.K. 86 nounced swampy aroma mars the first whiff abv: 14.5% Price: $34 of this rich, ripe wine before it brings on superripe, GRENACHE BLANC sweet peach and melon flavors. Full body, some Tanner 2018 Estate Grown Viognier (Sierra alcoholic heat and a toasted nut character give it a Martian Ranch 2018 Wanderstar Reserve 89 Foothills). The aroma of this full-bodied huge and heavy presence. —J.G. 93 Grenache Blanc (Santa Barbara County). wine is absolutely packed with vanilla, dried figs abv: 14.2% Price: $14 Strong aromas of pith, orange blossom sor- and ­baking spices, while the flavors and body come bet and crisp honeydew are fruity but clean on the up slightly leaner, but still mouthfilling. It’s a big nose of this bottling. The palate combines that lively white wine, ­flavorful and not blatantly fruity. —J.G. OTHER WHITE WINES orange-blossom touch with wet stone and light abv: 13% Price: $24 peach flavors, all framed by a chalky texture that Joyce 2018 Alluvial Fan Riesling (Monterey). doesn’t let go. Editors’­ Choice. —M.K. Aloria 2018 Estate Viognier (Calaveras 92 Clean and crisp lines of lemon peel, dried abv: 12.5% Price: $35 87 County). A mature, nutty, earthy quality honey­suckle and lime pith make for a fresh yet pervades this unusual but very tasty and rich wine. elegant nose on this bottling. There is tremendous Sans Liege 2018 Groundwork Grenache Blanc It has the sweetness and aged complexity of a late grip to the sip, where citrus peel and chalky flavors 92 (Paso Robles). Crisp aromas of melon rind, harvest dessert wine. —J.G. dominate. —M.K. orange blossom and plumeria make for a nose that’s abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 simultaneously tense and flowery in this bottling. The palate clings with a citrusy grapefruit edge while Ironstone 2017 Estate Grown Reserve Viog- Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Albariño (Santa Ynez opening toward jasmine, honeysuckle and white 87 nier (Sierra Foothills). Noteworthy for a deep 91 Valley). Polished aromas of citrus, pastry and flowers, balancing the tightrope between nerves and golden color and very buttery flavors, this full-bod- coconut make for an approachable nose. The pal- beauty. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ied wine doesn’t hold back. Butterscotch, marzipan ate sizzles with acidity while delivering a full fla- abv: 12.6% Price: $16 and toasted nuts coat the palate while an almost vor range of poached pome fruit, vanilla and baking thick texture gives a syrupy effect. —J.G. spice. —M.K. McClain Cellars 2017 Summer Breeze Grenache abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 91 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Dried lime and dried melon aromas meet with white flowers and Lost Blues 2018 Luckpenny Malvasia a hint of paraffin on the nose of this bottling. The WHITE BLENDS 91 (Paso Robles Highlands District). There’s palate is ­lively and zesty with lime-skin and brisk a slight haze to this bottling, which begins with nectarine flavors, leading into a waxy finish with the Mineral Wines 2018 Vino Del Oro Estate intriguing aromas of tart citrus, wet wool and tangy slightest hint of wood. —M.K. 89 Grown (Sierra Foothills). It’s hard to resist lemon, like meandering through a damp lemon abv: 14.15% Price: $32 the plump, ripe flavors and melted texture of this orchard. There’s a grippy texture to the palate, full-bodied, nutty-tasting wine made from Rous- where sour lemon candies and perfumed orange- Vindemia 2018 Guy Lemon de Blanc Gre- sanne and Viognier grapes. Mellow and mature, blossom flavors meet with guava peel. —M.K. 90 nache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This bot- it pours on the butter, vanilla and toasted almond abv: 14.2% Price: $32 tling gets extra credit for diligently listing everything used in its creation. It’s very clean and crisp on the

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Palmina 2018 Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara baked bread to subtle but satisfying fruit and bak- 91 County).­ Hints of toast meet with orange SPARKLING WINES ing-spice flavors. —J.G. rinds and yellow apples on the nose of this bottling abv: 12.5% Price: $48 by longtime Italian grape proponent Steve Clifton. Paula Kornell 2017 Blanc de Noir Méthode There is a brisk energy to the sip, where yellow- 95 Champenoise (Napa ­Valley). For full review Cuvaison 2016 Estate Grown Brut Rosé (Los grapefruit and pluot flavors are bright. —M.K. see page 5. Editors’ Choice. 90 Carneros). This sparkling pink wine is vel- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $50 vety smooth and refreshingly bright in raspberry, strawberry and sweet peach. Made from a blend of Crawford Family 2018 Brick Barn Vineyard Schramsberg 2014 Hyde Vineyards Blanc 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, it finishes 90 ­Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley). Clean lines of 94 de Blancs (Carneros). Made entirely from on a ginger note. —V.B. pear peel meet with light daffodil and a streak of cit- Chardonnay from the famous site, this is a beauti- abv: 12% Price: $50 rusy energy on the nose of this bottling. The flavors ful bottling, offering jasmine, wet stone and oyster are both broad and sharp, ranging from baked apple shell on the nose. On the balanced palate, expect a Grand Napa 2016 Brut Blanc de Noir to tart yellow-grapefruit juice. —M.K. richness of pear, apple and a touch of peach, with 90 (Carneros).­ This blends a majority of Pinot abv: 14% Price: $28 seamless acidity throughout. —V.B. Noir with Chardonnay and Pinot Gris and the result- abv: 12.5% Price: $85 ing wine is golden in color and exuberant in green Marimar 2018 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate apple and Meyer lemon. Sleek, stony elements of 90 Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian River Pence 2015 Brut Rosé Gamay Noir (Sta. Rita mineral and oyster shell add length and freshness. Valley). For full review see page 15. 93 Hills). A dark shade of plummy pink in the —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 glass, this sparkling Gamay is a revelation, starting abv: 12% Price: $95 with fresh red-fruit aromas of raspberry, cherry and Alara 2018 Van Ruiten Acampo Ranch Pinot hibiscus set against crushed chalk. There is a snap Portalupi 2017 Arrossire di Barbera Pauli 89 Grigio­ (Lodi). Tangy aromas of lime peel, of cherry to the sip, where joyous and clean fruit 89 Ranch (Mendocino County). This nicely dry, grapefruit rind and pith show on the nose of this flavors meet with a touch of sour lime peel.Editors’ bottle-fermented wine offers tight raspberry and bottling. There is a pleasant stony grip to the sip, Choice. —M.K. red-cherry flavors, good crisp acidity, and an appe- where peach flesh, coconut oil and a tart citrus fla- abv: 12.1% Price: $60 tizing texture. It’s refreshing and a bit restrained: vors align. —M.K. not a bad combination for a bubbly. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $31 Goat Bubbles 2016 Blanc de Noirs Ampelos abv: 12.9% Price: $42 92 Vineyard (Sta. Rita Hills). Crisp and clean Palmina 2018 Vermentino (Los Olivos Dis- lines of lemon rind and a light, doughy yeast aroma Strange Family Vineyards 2015 Blanc de 89 trict). Light and fresh aromas of lemon pith kick off the enlivening nose of this bottling. The fine 89 Blancs (Sta. Rita Hills). Quite aromatic on and pear flesh meet with a cement-like minerality mousse on the palate delivers flavors of tight lemon the nose, this bottling begins with honeysuckle, on the nose of this bottling. There is compelling grip and rising bread, proving to be a refreshing and lemon, Asian pear and orange-rind aromas. The to the sip, where a chalky te­xture carries austere ­invigorating sip. —M.K. palate is more tangy with grapefruit-rind and dried flavors of grapefruit pith, lime peel and lemon-laced abv: 12.9% Price: $60 lemon-peel flavors, leading into a doughy finish. spring water. —M.K. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $28 Goat Bubbles 2016 Brut Cuvée (Santa ­Barbara abv: 11% Price: $42 92 County). Very crisp and zesty on the clean Toca Madera 2017 Estate Bottled Marsanne and refreshing nose, this bottling offers aromas of Strange Family Vineyards 2015 Blanc de 89 (Madera). This light-bodied wine has an lemon peel and chalky soda water. There is a great 89 Noirs (Sta. Rita Hills). A darker shade of yel- ­appetizing sense of restraint, revealing subtle spicy, snap to the palate, where lemon-blossom, lime- low in the glass, this bottling begins with aromas mineral aromas, and an almost chalky character on balm and red-grapefruit flavors tantalize the tongue. of sour lemon candies, sourdough bread, plumeria the palate supported by quiet Bosc pear and wal- —M.K. and jasmine. The palate is crisp and tart, with sour nut accents. Made with three days of skin contact, abv: 12.9% Price: $44 apple and lemon-rind flavors. —M.K. it’s something different and unusual to try with an abv: 12% Price: $59 earthy, umami-forward dish. —J.G. Gloria Ferrer 2014 Carneros Cuvée Rosé abv: 11.4% Price: $24 91 (Carneros). This is a late-disgorged bottling of Gloria Ferrer 2013 Royal Cuvée Brut nearly equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that is 88 (Carneros).­ Blending 67% Pinot Noir and Santa Barbara Winery 2017 5.7 Lafond rich and lively, offering a depth of baked apple, pine- 33% Chardonnay, this sparkler is viscous and rich 88 Vineyard Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). Strong apple and mango. The oak is well mannered and sup- in vanilla cream, nutmeg and biscuit, with a layer- orange-blossom aromas meet with orange rinds portive, adding a touch of vanilla and nutmeg. —V.B. ing of thick peach. Robust in style, it offers moder- and Ruby Red grapefruit flesh on the nose of this abv: 12.5% Price: $85 ate acidity and structure. —V.B. semisweet bottling. The palate is indeed sweet but abv: 12.5% Price: $40 cut by a sizzle of acidity, delivering spun sugar and Goat Bubbles 2016 Blanc de Blancs Sierra baked orange flavors. —M.K. 91 Madre Vineyard (Santa Maria Valley). Sour Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Grenache Blanc de abv: 10.4% Price: $22 yellow apples, tangerine-rind, orange-blossom and 88 Noir (Santa Barbara County). Crisp aromas pizza-dough aromas show on the nose of this single- of honeydew rind, lime soda, chalk and white flow- Wilson Creek 2018 Harmony Vineyard Fam- vineyard sparkler by regional bubbly pioneer Norm ers show on the nose of this bottling, which is a very 84 ily Reserve Roussanne (Temecula Valley). Yost. Dried apple and sour lemon aromas play with rare bottling of red Grenache as a blanc sparkler. ­Lemons, iron, peach-extract and olive-oil aromas honeysuckle on the sip. —M.K. Flavors of Asian pear and rice crackers show on the make for an interesting entry to the nose of this abv: 13.1% Price: $44 sip, where the bubbles fade a bit quickly. —M.K. bottling. The palate is viscous and somewhat sweet, abv: 12.3% Price: $39 with flavors of cantaloupe and seared lemon. —M.K. Toulouse 2013 Goose Brut Blanc de Noirs abv: 15.3% Price: $27 91 (Anderson­ Valley). Both rich and complex, Korbel NV Brut (California). Effusive fruit- this wine from a notable vineyard shows the ben- 86 bowl aromas and flavors are buoyed by efits of maturity, from an aroma of butter and freshly lively effervescence in this medium-bodied, acces-

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 sible wine. A touch of sweetness (10g/l) rounds the Raeburn 2019 Rosé (Russian River Valley). memorable in every way. Generous black cherry, edges of the texture. —J.G. 90 Light and nearly clear in color, this wine cola and dusty Asian spice dance around a struc- abv: 12% Price: $14 offers a sweet nose of peach and candied cherry and tured complex richness of length and breadth, the is appealing from the start. The crisp dry palate bal- texture silky, sophisticated and floral. Fresh acid- Mancan NV Sparkling (California). This ances the nose, finding an appealing minerality and ity abounds and gives contrasting crispness to the 85 straightforward sparkling wine tastes elements of dried herb that contrasts well against looming brooding earthiness. —V.B. like what it is: a standard white wine with frothy the fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $200 bubbles added. It shows very ripe citrus and pear abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ­flavors and a rather full body.Best Buy. —J.G. Tolosa 2018 Primera Edna Ranch Pinot Noir abv: 12.5% Price: $5/375 ml Alara 2018 Rosé of Barbera (San Benito 97 (Edna Valley). Very lush and inviting on the 88 County). A pale yellowish-pink in color, this nose, this top-shelf bottling by Frederick Delivert rosé begins with aromas of light melon, citrus pith begins with aromas of softly poached Bing cherries, ROSÉS and coconut flake on the nose. It’s tightly woven dark strawberry cream, hints of slate and well inte- and brisk on the palate, which is more about texture grated oak. The palate is wrapped in perfectly chis- Tongue Dancer 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir than the lime-driven flavor. —M.K. eled tannins and crisp fresh acidity, offering lush 92 (Sonoma­ Coast). Made entirely from grapes abv: 13.9% Price: $25 red-fruit and baking-spice flavors. —M.K. grown on the coastal Putnam Vineyard, this impres- abv: 13.8% Price: $144 sive wine is stony in lemon, peach and crisp acidity— Bella Impavida 2018 Rosé (California). This a worthy balance to its rounded richness and weight. 88 firm-textured wine has a refreshing water- Clarice 2018 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Full bodied, it tastes of spring and summer, with a melon aroma, chunky flavors of cranberry and red 96 (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see grainy texture of complex silkiness, both fermented cherry and a slightly tannic, chalky texture. It is page 4. Cellar Selection. and aged in stainless steel. —V.B. very dry and mouthwatering. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Kosta Browne 2017 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Eric Kent 2018 Rosé (Sonoma Coast). Dark Day Owl 2018 Rosé (California). This 96 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lush aromas 91 ruby red in color, this is rich combination of 88 medium-bodied and mineral-accented wine of poached strawberry and cherry liqueur make 87% Pinot Noir with 8% Syrah and 5% Grenache. offers flinty, earthy aromas and tangy raspberry and for a hedonistic opening to the nose of this single-­ Bright, well-composed flavors of grapefruit, orange ripe cherry flavors on a lively texture. It’s nicely bal- vineyard expression. The palate lands beautifully, and meaty dried herb make for a medium-bodied anced and appetizing. —J.G. offering ripe strawberry, pomegranate and candied experience of exuberance and power. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 cherry flavors, yet it sports a relatively light, acid- abv: 14.1% Price: $22 washed frame that allows accents of mace, star Karine 2018 Three Daughters Rosé of anise and cardamom to shine through. —M.K. ONX 2018 Indie Rosé of Tempranillo (Paso 88 ­Primitivo (Calaveras County). A meaty, abv: 14.6% Price: $165 91 Robles). A pale pink in the glass, this bottling prosciutto-like aroma and firm, bitter cherry flavors begins with crisp and chalky aromas of pluot, bak- make this light-bodied wine reminiscent of an Ital- Kosta Browne 2016 Cerise Pinot Noir ing soda and sharp tangerine peel. There’s a tight ian apéritif. It brings a nice Mediterranean mineral 96 (Anderson­ Valley). Both powerful and and sharp edge to the palate, which is zesty and flair to the table. —J.G. delicious, this full-bodied wine offers great depth fresh with watermelon and lively strawberry-ice abv: 13.8% Price: $24 of flavors, breadth in the mouthfilling texture and flavors. —M.K. excellent length on the finish. It’s packed with ripe, abv: 14.2% Price: $24 Alara 2018 Rosé of Grenache (San Benito tempting black cherry, nervy rhubarb, mint and 87 County). A pale, slightly yellow-pink in the spicy clove on the palate, while a velvety blanket of Crawford Family 2018 Rosé (Santa Ynez glass, this bottling offers slightly dried aromas of fine-grained tannins adds grip. Best through 2027. 90 Valley).­ A slightly dark shade of pink, this plum, watermelon rind, lime and river water. The Cellar­ Selection­ . —J.G. is a richer expression of rosé based mostly on Gre- palate is clean in flavor, with more melon rind and abv: 13.5% Price: $165 nache with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvè- plum flesh, yet it lacks a tad in texture. —M.K. dre, starting with aromas of cherry, strawberry and abv: 15.2% Price: $25 Pence 2017 Unum Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. vanilla. The palate also packs some power, with 96 Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. baked cherry and more baking-spice flavors cut by Benessere 2018 Rosato di Sangiovese (St. abv: 13.6% Price: $60 brisk grapefruit acidity. —M.K. 87 Helena). From estate-grown grapes, this abv: 14% Price: $25 light wine is salmon in color, with herbal, earthy Sea Smoke 2017 Southing Monopole Pinot­ personality. Strawberry, deli meat and a faint 96 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This monopole bot- Geyser Peak 2018 Winemaker’s Selection metallic twist of flint combine around medium- tling from the coveted biodynamic vineyard begins 90 Rosé (Alexander Valley). Lemony on the bodied ripeness and richness. —V.B. with lush, intense and inviting aromas of dark boy- nose and bursting in peach on the palate, this is a abv: 13.9% Price: $25 senberry paste, wild mint, star anise and shaved light-colored, rounded and mildly rich wine, made nutmeg. The palate is bright with acidity yet redo- from a mix of Zinfandel, Merlot, Gewürztraminer Mancan NV Rosé (California). Clean and lent with dark-berry and black-currant flavors that and Pinot Noir. Stainless-steel fermented, it retains 86 fruity, this medium-bodied, straightfor- give way to cola, mace and more exotic spices ­toward its fruitiness around a smooth, pleasing texture. ward wine exudes cherry and strawberry aromas the finish. —M.K. —V.B. and has a ripe, almost sweet flavor.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 13.2% Price: $26 abv: 12.5% Price: $5/375 ml Ancien 2017 Mink Vineyard Pinot Noir Kunde 2018 Signature Estate Grown Rosé 95 (Coombsville). This is a perennially stun- 90 Wine (Sonoma Valley).­ For full review see PINOT NOIR ning wine and this vintage is no exception. Spicy page 15. earth and black cherry intertwine on the nose and abv: 13.4% Price: $40 Kosta Browne 2016 Bootlegger’s Hill ­Pinot palate as additional waves of strawberry and rhu- 97 Noir (Russian River Valley). This stun- barb weigh in. Medium bodied, balanced and com- ning, spectacular wine from a fantastic vintage is

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BUYINGGUIDE plex, the wine’s texture is creamy and has plenty of littered in volcanic soils, this wine is fresh, focused mas of ripe but dried cherry alongside wet slate length, with stony minerality throughout. —V.B. and sanguine, with lovely layers of blueberry, rhu- and licorice. The palate packs dried cranberry and abv: 14.2% Price: $55 barb and orange peel. Tangy acidity rides through- pomegranate with sagebrush and loam, proving full- out its bolder, richer elements of supple tannin flavored but not overly ripe. —M.K. Clarice 2018 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir structure and integrated oak. A tangy hit of crisp abv: 13.9% Price: $60 95 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see rhubarb and cranberry lingers on the long finish. page 5. —V.B. Calera 2016 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. abv: 14.1% Price: $85 abv: 14% Price: $200 94 Harlan). Aromas of dried cherry, dark-red flower, smoked meat and black plum pudding come Crawford Family 2018 Radian Vineyard Pinot Patz & Hall 2017 Little Boot Vineyard Pinot together in subtle ways on the nose of this bottling. 95 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Beautifully ripe and 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). Earthy in grape The palate picks up more spice in the form of star lush aromas of cherry sorbet and raspberry cream stem, tree bark and forest, this complex, confound- anise and gingerbread, with lingering acidity driving are cut by slate-like minerality, wild tarragon and ing and memorable wine is high toned in fresh acid- cranberry and vanilla flavors into the finish. —M.K. light vanilla on the nose inviting nose of this single- ity. The structure cradles tart, tangy waves of citrus, abv: 14.9% Price: $65 vineyard expression. There is a pristine quality to cranberry and pomegranate—a depth of flavor that the bowlful of red-cherry flavors, yet the structure is in balance and finishes with grace. —V.B. Castello di Amorosa 2017 Morning Dew fights back against the fruit, the acid is pitch perfect abv: 13.5% Price: $80 94 Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full and the lingering spice is nice. —M.K. review see page 6. abv: 14.4% Price: $60 Phillips Hill 2017 Day Ranch Pinot Noir abv: 13.4% Price: $75 95 (Anderson­ Valley). For full review see page Kosta Browne 2017 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot 5. Cellar Selection. Clarice 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 95 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Roasted abv: 13% Price: $47 94 lands). This appellation blend from Adam cherry and tart cranberry aromas are dusted with Lee is almost as delicious as the single-vineyard caramel and vanilla bean on the nose of this excel- Scar of the Sea 2017 Block Q Bien Nacido offerings. Red currant and cherry aromas meet with lent bottling, which balances ripeness with preci- 95 Vineyard Old Vine Pinot Noir (Santa Maria potting soil, rosebud, charred wood and dried herbs sion. There’s a fruit-punch kick to the tip of the Valley). Coming from a block planted in 1973, this on the nose. The palate is rich in feel, with roasted sip, where dark strawberry, baking-spice, slate and wine begins with lush layers of baked alpine straw- boysenberry and mulberry flavors that are enhanced earth flavors converge, wrapped in a texture that berry, cinnamon and clove on the French toast by accents of forest floor, wild herb and baked soil. grows more firm toward the finish. —M.K. spice-laden nose. The sip is taut in texture, deliver- —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $165 ing complex and deep flavors of strawberry, sage- abv: 14.1% Price: $85 brush, rose petal and bay leaf oil in unending waves Kosta Browne 2017 Kanzler Vineyard Pinot of expression. —M.K. Crawford Family 2018 Walk Slow Pinot Noir 95 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From this perennially abv: 13.5% Price: $64 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). Mark Horvath built his impressive site is this stunning vineyard-designate,­ name on Kenneth-Crawford Syrah, but has become earthy in a wealthy array of cola, clove, nutmeg and Seabold Cellars 2017 Pelio East Ridge Pinot a Pinot Noir pro with his own winery. Aromas of orange peel. Soft, succulent and layered, it dazzles 95 Noir (Monterey). A lighter yet tremendously ripe but clean, crisp and fresh Bing cherry are cut by in fresh, focused black cherry and tart shocks of dynamic style of Pinot Noir, this bottling begins a hint of mace, leading into a snappy palate of black pomegranate. Black tea finishes things off within with hibiscus, pomegranate, wild thyme, bay leaf raspberry, cardamom and clove. The structure grabs a balanced body of full flavor and structured and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose. Those forest- hold from the outset and then the acidity wipes it ­complexity. —V.B. floor elements carry into the palate, where crisp all up on the finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $165 raspberry flavors are enhanced by juniper and pine- abv: 14.1% Price: $48 needle freshness. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Kosta Browne 2017 Observations Mt. ­Carmel abv: 13.3% Price: $45 Croix 2017 Narrow Gauge Pinot Noir (Russian 95 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The winery’s 94 River Valley). For full review see page 6. ­Observations series focuses on unique blocks, and Tolosa 2018 Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.7% Price: $65 the history and setting of Mt. Carmel, planted by 95 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Black cherry, vanilla, renegade nuns atop the Sta. Rita Hills, makes for a struck stone and hickory smoke aromas expertly EnRoute 2017 Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot compelling showcase. This bottling starts with aro- combine fruit, rocks and earth on the nose of this 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review mas of cranberry, pomegranate paste and sandal­ single-vineyard expression. Dried lilac and wisteria see page 6. wood, leading into an earthy palate that’s dense flavors meet with a black-plum core on the palate, abv: 14.5% Price: $85 with black raspberry and carnation. The fine-tuned where long-lingering acidity and grippy tannins structure is most promising. Drink 2022–2042. ­ensure a long finish. —M.K. EnRoute 2017 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $128 94 (Russian River Valley). For full review see abv: 13.3% Price: $210 page 6. Ancien 2017 Jouissance Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Kosta Browne 2017 Thorn Ridge Ranch Pinot 94 River Valley). Bright, fresh and tannic, with 95 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is made from a earthy layers of black tea, sharp red fruit and a Joseph Jewell 2016 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot small site entirely dry-farmed within the Sebas- tangy length of spice, this displays the appellation 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). From the great topol Hills. Fresh acidity pierces through spicy tea well, combining full-bodied richness and weight site in the heart of the appellation, this impressive and clove seasoned around a light, bright and exotic with underlying acidity that balances the breadth. bottling offers a tremendous length of spice, com- core of orange peel, rhubarb and brambly black- —V.B. plex notions that contrast well against its light, berry and cherry. The finish is lengthy and indelibly abv: 14.5% Price: $53 crisp red fruit. Well balanced and composed, it memorable. —V.B. has length, texture and a suppleness to the tannin, abv: 14.2% Price: $165 Bargetto 2018 Mount Eden Clone Pinot Noir ­resulting in lasting deliciousness. —V.B. 94 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This clonal expres- abv: 14.2% Price: $60 Kosta Browne 2016 Treehouse Vineyard sion is hearty, dark and earthy from sniff to finish. 95 ­Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a site A deep ruby in color, the wine kicks off with aro-

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Kosta Browne 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma MacRostie 2017 Terra de Promissio Pinot Phillips Hill 2017 Boontling Pinot Noir 94 Coast). Sourced from a slew of outstanding 94 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From the famous 94 (Anderson­ Valley). Elegance and depth come vineyards, including Kanzler and Gap’s Crown, this Petaluma Gap site, this light-bodied, elegant wine together beautifully in this posh, well-balanced­ and coastal wine is smooth, seductive and earthy, with is fresh and rich in baked strawberry, forest and luxuriously ripe-tasting wine. Gorgeous maraschino focused acidity and tension. Orange, blackberry and dried herb. Lengthy in savory spice and black tea, it cherry and sweet plum flavors meet subtle tan- strawberry are seasoned in cardamom and dried has structure to spare, with firm, s­upple tannin and nins and good acidity on the palate, giving a sunny herb. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. ­integrated oak. —V.B. ­impression that’s hard to resist. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $115 abv: 13.1% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Kosta Browne 2017 Gap’s Crown Vineyard MacRostie 2017 Thale’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Phillips Hill 2017 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 94 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Soft blue fruit, 94 (Russian River Valley). With a delicate floral 94 (Anderson Valley). This medium-bodied orange tea and rhubarb make for an exotic, tangy nose met by cherry spice, this is a sumptuous and wine from a distinctive single vineyard is exciting and beguiling experience on the palate of this lovely red wine, fully lush in strawberry and black for its focus and purity. It offers intense, concen- explosive, focused and freshly crisp wine from the cherry. French oak wraps around the fruit effort- trated, vibrant and exotic black-fruit flavors while famous site. Soft and seductive in texture, it has lessly adding nuances of vanilla and baking spice. supporting them with a near-perfect balance of complexity around rich layers of balanced spice and —V.B. mild tannins and slightly bracing acidity. —J.G. earthiness. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.1% Price: $165 Migration 2017 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Three Sticks 2017 Cuvée Eva Marie Pinot Noir Kosta Browne 2017 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir 94 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Quite light in the 94 (Sonoma Mountain). For full review see 94 (Russian River Valley). From a site that is glass, this single-vineyard expression mixes cherry page 6. dry-farmed, with deep vines, this Keefer is elusive with turned earth, crushed slate and hints of smoke abv: 14.5% Price: $90 on the nose at first, opening slowly and with grace. on the nose. There is excellent structure on the pal- Tart, tangy raspberry and cherry glide across a rich, ate, where crisp pomegranate meets with under- Three Sticks 2017 Gap’s Crown Vineyard lushly layered palate fresh and exotic in black tea, lying elements of game, delicate dried herbs and 94 ­Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review forest floor and a touch of lemon. —V.B. more smoke. It is complex and savory yet refreshing see page 6. abv: 14.2% Price: $165 enough to enjoy all day. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $70 abv: 14.2% Price: $70 Lady of the Sunshine 2018 Chene Vineyard Whitcraft 2018 Pence Ranch Clone 459 94 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Wondrous aromas Migration 2017 Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot 94 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very light in of flowers and crunchy fruit introduce this bottling, 94 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Intense aromas of can- the glass, this wine explodes on the nose with aro- reminiscent of walking through a blooming rose gar- died Bing cherry are leveled by a powerful mineral- mas of freshly plucked raspberry, strawberry and den in the dewy dawn surrounded by wild tarragon ity on the nose of this bottling, where wet, crushed ­cranberry along with wet sidewalk minerality and with a bowl of raspberry sorbet in hand. There is slate scents are prominent. Pristine red-fruit flavors hints of sagebrush and pepper dust. The fruity ­intense structure to the sip, as the wine is quite are cut by French toast spice and framed by tightly qualities are more reserved on the palate, where young and tightly wound, yet rose-petal, carna- woven tannins that will endure for ages. Drink now fresh hibiscus and white-pepper flavors ride a tense tion and snappy red-currant flavors all emerge with through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. structure, leading toward a cherry paste and ­precision. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $70 finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $36 abv: 11.6% Price: $68 Pence 2017 Fugio Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). MacRostie 2017 Hellenthal Vineyard Pinot 94 Quite gamy on the nose, with hints of raw Ancien 2017 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Lively in 94 Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). From a high-­ meat and wild herbs, this bottling also offers wild 93 brooding black fruit, this wine is balanced elevation coastal site, this wine is dazzling in juicy red-currant, bay leaf and peppercorn aromas. The in richness and length, with a lasting wealth of bak- red fruit, gentle spice and a great length and breadth palate is complex and wild, with flavors of pepper- ing spice and black tea. Well integrated, it forms a of textured intensity. Toasted oak adds more spice crusted beef served under a orange-rind and cran- cohesive experience on the smooth, seductive palate, and a note of dark chocolate, which combines well berry compote and dusted with thyme and tobacco finding a balance across all its components. —V.B. with the rich, rewarding core of berry. —V.B. leaf. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 13.7% Price: $58 abv: 13.4% Price: $60 B Cellars 2017 Calesa Vineyard Pinot Noir MacRostie 2017 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir Pence 2016 Fugio Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. 93 (Sonoma Coast). Juicy and exotic, this wine 94 (Russian River Valley). This lovely, balanced 94 Rita Hills). There’s a wide array of herbs is bright, with a depth of underlying richness that wine from the great site is nuanced in rose, laven- and spice on the nose of this bottling, from juni- matches well. Black cherry, brambly blackberry, der and dark cherry-strawberry richness, the palate per to cracked pepper to nori, as well as a backdrop black tea and peppercorn give it an intriguing appeal juicy and supple with generous tension and texture. of black raspberry and mulberry. The palate dives of savory fruit finished off in fresh acidity. —V.B. Spicy forest and black tea mingle with ease amongst right into a heady blend of raspberry and savory abv: 14.1% Price: $76 the core of fruit, the finish lengthy and graceful. herbs, proving dynamic, fresh and easy to enjoy. —V.B. —M.K. Calera 2017 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). For abv: 14% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 93 full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 MacRostie 2017 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir (Rus- Pence 2016 Unum Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. 94 sian River Valley). This is a light, ethereal 94 Rita Hills). Plump aromas of blistered plums EnRoute 2017 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Rus- take on the variety, savory in forested earth, black and berries meet with wood, dried game, sagebrush 93 sian River Valley). For full review see page 7. tea and crispy red fruit. Made in a restrained, and crumpled flowers on the nose of this bottling. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 ­elegant style, it sings in acidity and energy, and has The wild herb and peppercorn flavors of the palate a subtle dusting of white pepper that is immensely are layered in between snappy black-raspberry and complex. —V.B. exotic wood-spice elements. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $60

WINEMAG.COM | 89

BUYINGGUIDE

EnRoute 2017 Northern Spy Vineyard Pinot immensely complex and pleasurable, offering cran- Pence 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review berry, orange-rind, jasmine and carnation flavors. 93 Savory aromas of bay leaf, juniper and rose- see page 7. —M.K. mary play against the wild berry, sumac and dried abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.4% Price: $165 mulberry aromas on the nose of this herbaceous bottling. The savory and herbal streak consumes Foley 2017 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir Kuchan 2017 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). the palate as well, where tart cranberry fruit is 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 8. 93 Very fresh aromas of raspberry sorbet and decorated with fennel pollen, oregano and sanguine abv: 14.3% Price: $40 hibiscus meet with light brushes of potpourri and flavors. —M.K. wild sage on the nose of this bottling. Dried straw- abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Foley 2016 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir berry and fresh raspberry converge with wild chap- 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 8. arral herbs and earthy mushroom-umami flavors on Scar of the Sea 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa abv: 14.4% Price: $40 the palate, where the structure is firm but forgiving. 93 Barbara­ County). This county-wide blend —M.K. is light in the glass, offering crisp aromas of Alpine Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Kessler-Haak Vine- abv: 13.8% Price: $48 strawberry, red currant, mint and wet stone. The 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Bing cherry, palate is zippy and taut in structure, delivering fla- dark strawberry, star anise and nutmeg aromas Left Bend 2016 Gali Vineyard Pinot Noir (­Santa vors of underripe raspberry, cranberry and damp make for a wondrously inviting nose on this single- 93 Cruz County). There’s a bright red-fruit com- wool. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. vineyard expression. The palate offers full flavors ponent of candied cherry to the nose of this bot- abv: 13% Price: $28 of baked cherry and sea-salt caramel, making for a tling, but the dominant aromas of redwood and pine ­deliciously hedonistic take on the grape. —M.K. are classic for the region. That herbal forest influ- Scar of the Sea 2017 Seven Leagues Pinot abv: 14% Price: $59 ence shows on the palate, where juniper, cedar and 93 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Elegant aromas of pine-needle spice the mulberry fruits. —M.K. dried sagebrush, bright cranberry, raspberry paste Joyce 2018 Submarine Canyon Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $42 and hibiscus are immensely fresh on the nose of this 93 (Monterey). Dark Bing cherry and berry- bottling. There is a compelling herbal character to candy aromas are beautifully ripe, fresh and run Odonata 2017 Falcon Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir the palate, from bay leaf to thyme and sagebrush, on the nose of this bright expression of Monterey, 93 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Dark cherry aromas as well as wild fruit flavors of strawberry, cranberry always one of the region’s better Pinot Noirs for the meet with more mineral-driven hints of rust and and roasted plum. —M.K. price. That fresh cherry tone picks up light cola and wild herb-laced wet earth elements on the nose of abv: 13.3% Price: $46 mace on the delicious palate, where acidity pumps this single-vineyard expression—a property that’s into the vanilla-kissed finish.Editors’ Choice. farmed entirely by this winery. Blistered cherries Three Sticks 2017 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir —M.K. and roasted red plums converge with tarragon, 93 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.3% Price: $25 mace and nutmeg on the palate, which finishes with abv: 14% Price: $70 toasty tones. —M.K. Kosta Browne 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Wentworth 2018 Nash Mill Vineyard Pinot 93 Valley). A delightfully thoughtful and richly 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see rewarding appellation wine, sourced from Boot­ Patz & Hall 2017 Bootlegger’s Hill Pinot Noir page 9. legger’s Hill, Treehouse, Zio Tony and other stellar 93 (Russian River Valley). This wine is marked abv: 13% Price: $66 sites, this is hearty in red and blue fruit, cardamom by big, bold flavor and grippy tannin delivering and a taste of cola. Velvety rich and layered, it has an inviting intensity that delights and confounds. Whitcraft 2018 Chene Vineyard Pinot Noir well-integrated oak and broad appeal, with a lasting Black cherry, plum and wild strawberry give it wide 93 (Edna Valley). Dark hibiscus and fresh cran- thread of acidity. —V.B. appeal and power, with an earthiness that melds berry aromas meet with earthy elements of wet abv: 14.3% Price: $115 within with ease and length. —V.B. adobe brick and crushed slate on the nose of this abv: 14.2% Price: $65 bottling. The sip zips into flavors of strawberry sor- Kosta Browne 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita bet, wet gravel, plum skins and li hing mui spice, 93 Hills). Snappy black raspberry, ripe mul- Patz & Hall 2017 Burnside Vineyard Pinot proving quite delicious and gluggable. —M.K. berry and plump melon aromas are lifted by cola, 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). Earthy forest abv: 12.73% Price: $65 fennel pollen and baking spice on the complex nose and buzzy acidity open this wine on the nose and of this appellation blend. The palate surrounds a palate, easing into a broad texture of velvety rich- Banshee 2017 Marine Layer Pinot Noir red-fruit core of cranberry and strawberry, which is ness and brooding tannin. Black tea, cherry and a 92 (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. decorated by pinches of wild thyme, dried sage and touch of cola combine around the savory under- abv: 14.2% Price: $35 earthy minerality. —M.K. tones and lasting freshness. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $115 abv: 14.2% Price: $85 Croix 2017 Old Manzana Slope Manzana 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Kosta Browne 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Patz & Hall 2017 Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir This wine has a lively nose of peppery baking spice, 93 Highlands). Candied strawberry and rasp- 93 (Carneros). For full review see page 9. followed by rich layers of black cherry, black tea berry-sorbet aromas are generous yet elegant on abv: 14.2% Price: $75 and high-toned acidity. Lasting in velve­ty texture, the nose, enhanced by dried violet and sandalwood it shows an underlying element of crushed rock and scents. There’s a great snap of juicy red-cherry and Patz & Hall 2017 Sanchietti Vineyard Pinot dusty grip. —V.B. mulberry fruit on the palate, where an energetic 93 Noir (Russian River Valley). Tart raspberry, abv: 14.6% Price: $95 texture cuts through the rich ripeness. —M.K. rhubarb and cherry star in this vineyard-designate, abv: 14.3% Price: $115 a well-integrated, supple and complex celebration Crū 2018 Anniversary Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia­ of the grape. Light in baking spice and earthy for- 92 Highlands). For full review see page 10. Kosta Browne 2017 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir est, it offers length and breadth across the velvety abv: 13.9% Price: $35 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Clean and elegant­ palate. —V.B. aromas of black-raspberry sorbet are enhanced­ by abv: 14.2% Price: $NA E16 2016 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (­Santa light dashes of cardamom on the intense and dark 92 Lucia Highlands). Prominent and robust aro- nose of this single-vineyard expression. The palate is mas of dark cherry meet with light smoke, wet slate

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 and a hint of lanolin on the nose of this rich and With underlying acidity, it remains fresh on the pal- elusive and complex—a mix of salty rock, black tea, flavorful bottling. The palate is a complex array of ate within its hearty fruit and layered texture. —V.B. anise and black currant. —V.B. dark fruit, brown spice and fennel, riding balanced abv: 14.6% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 layers of tannin and acid. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 Landmark 2016 Rayhill Vineyard Pinot Noir Walt 2017 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ander- 92 (Russian River Valley). For full review see 92 son Valley). Bright, spicy new-oak aromas Flying Goat Cellars 2016 667 Rio Vista Vine- page 10. and flavors light up this full-bodied wine, and it 92 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Only avail- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 delivers good, ripe cherry and black-plum flavors to able in the cellar-worthy magnum size, this clonal balance out the oak. With a little time in the bottle selection offers aromas of black raspberry, charred MacRostie 2017 Cummings Vineyard ­Pinot the unique character of the Savoy vineyard should wood, sagebrush and loamy, dried soil on the nose. 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). Juicy ­strawberry, emerge. Best after 2022. —J.G. Hearty and dark red fruits show on the acid-driven black tea and turned earth open into a midpalate of abv: 13.5% Price: $75 palate, which is framed in tannins that still need light, bright acidity, with a meaty underbelly of rich- a touch of refinement. It’s a good thing it will last ness in this wine, sourced from a vineyard in the Wentworth 2018 Pinot Noir (Anderson long. Drink 2021–2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. Santa Rosa Plains and farmed by Charlie Chenoweth.­ 92 Valley).­ For full review see page 11. abv: 14.8% Price: $125/1.5 L The finish hints of orange peel and cardamom. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $58 Foley 2017 T Anchor Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Windrun 2017 No. 15 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 92 Rita Hills). For full review see page 10. MacRostie 2017 Rodgers Creek Pinot Noir 92 Hills). Beautifully candied dark-cherry aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 92 (Petaluma Gap). Tangy, edgy acidity under- mas meet with vanilla, nutmeg and cardamom on lies the buzzing core of this structured, high-toned the lush, inviting nose of this bottling. The sip snaps Foley 2016 Bar Lazy S Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. wine from the new appellation. Stony mineral and with strong raspberry and rose-petals flavors that 92 Rita Hills). For full review see page 10. crisp, crunchy red fruit defines its medium-bodied ride a very fresh acidity into a lively finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $55 frame of complex tannin integration and graceful abv: 14.1% Price: $33 finish. —V.B. Indigené 2017 Pinot Noir (Carmel Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $58 B Cellars 2017 Manzana Vineyard Pinot Noir 92 Rugged and wild cherry aromas meet with 91 (Russian River Valley). With aromatics of rose rose petals, wild mint and dried meats on the fas- Marimar 2016 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard and cola, this wine is sharp and tangy, with high- cinating nose of this bottling. Light sagebrush and 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full toned red fruit and lasting opulence. Its velvety dusty earth flavors play against cranberry and review see page 11. richness underscores a full-bodied approach and thyme on the compelling palate. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $49 structure, with a fleshy finish of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $73 Montemar 2015 Bentrock Vineyard Pinot Joseph Jewell 2016 Martini Clone Old Girls 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Hearty aromas of Center of Effort 2017 Effort Pinot Noir (Edna 92 Starscape Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River ­reduced berries, Earl Grey tea and potting soil make 91 Valley). Dark and intense aromas of candied Valley). From a block of the vineyard planted to one for a complex and compelling nose on this single- cherry and boysenberry are lifted by pinches of sage, clone in 1971, this impressive red is light and savory, vineyard expression. The palate shows great depth thyme and wood spice on the nose of this bottling. with a smooth, voluptuous texture. Brooding black with layers of baked boysenberry, dried flowers and There is a black-raspberry snap to the sip, where and blue fruit pervade across integrated oak and earthy loam, proving elegant and expressive. —M.K. more wild chaparral herbs add nuance. —M.K. spicy of cardamom and clove. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 abv: 13.8% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Phillips Hill 2017 Oppenlander Vineyard Croix 2017 South Block Six Platt Vineyard Joseph Jewell 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River 92 ­Pinot Noir (Mendocino). This smooth, silky 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From the 92 Valley). Deliciously exuberant in strawberry­ wine is polished and well behaved, from the subtle coastal site overlooking the ocean, this is a thick, and cherry, this wine is also earthy and herbal, with cherry and vanilla aromas to the sleek texture that viscous red structured and lushly layered in sweet a hint of mushroom. Vineyard sourcing is from carries its mild oak and elegant fruit flavors through cola, plum, bacon and ash. A finishing touch of several vineyard-designates, including Hallberg a lingering finish. The vineyard is on a high ridge ­tobacco and turned earth accent its full-bodied and Starscape. Lengthy and complex, it finishes in between Anderson Valley and the Pacific Coast. ­intensity. —V.B. bright acidity. —V.B. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $110 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Crū 2018 Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir Kosta Browne 2017 Giusti Ranch Pinot Noir Sling & Stone 2018 Knott Family Vineyard 91 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see 92 (Russian River Valley). From a longtime 92 ­Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Bright aromas page 11. Editors’ Choice. vineyard source, this vintage shines in lean, rustic of bursting strawberry and red currant are layered abv: 13.9% Price: $35 and earthy tones of rhubarb, tangerine and black in cinnamon, nutmeg and clove on the nose of this tea, the texture grainy and full of grip. Round and single-vineyard expression. The 20% new French Daniel 2017 Grand Vent Vineyard Pinot Noir relatively rich, it has aspects of earthy forest and oak shows right away on the sip, and then come 91 (Petaluma Gap). With only 45 cases made, baking spice within its core, finishing soft and waves of smoked cherries and meat, finishing with a this wine impresses in its grasp of the cool-climate smooth. —V.B. savory dashi-broth kick. —M.K. site and appellation—the vineyard once known as abv: 14.2% Price: $165 abv: 13.84% Price: $32 Clary Ranch. Smoky oak and stemmy dried herb make for an undeniable earthiness that comple- La Crema 2017 Sealift Vineyard Pinot Noir Three Sticks 2017 Walala Vineyard Pinot Noir ments the high-strung acidity and crisp flavors of 92 (Sonoma Coast). Inviting red fruit and a 92 (Sonoma Coast). From a wild, ocean-facing strawberry and rhubarb. —V.B. sharpness of orange peel open the way to a juicy and site (an estate property for the producer) this bold, abv: 13.8% Price: $65 supple midpalate of robust richness and weight that brawny red is as exotic as its provenance, brim- works well within the integrated tannin and oak. ming in nervy acidity and robust, structured tan- nin. Herbal, earthy and savory, its flavor profile is

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EnRoute 2017 Marty’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Marimar 2016 Cristina Don Miguel Vineyard cranberry and mud cakes on the nose of this bot- 91 (Russian River Valley). For full review see 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Named for tling. The sip is framed by upright tannins that start page 12. the proprietress’s daughter, this estate-grown wine quite rigid but open up toward cranberry sauce and abv: 14.5% Price: $85 is freshly high-toned and earthy in forest. Edgy red orange-rind flavors. —M.K. fruit meets structured tannin and weight, with a abv: NA Price: $128 Eric Kent 2016 Sascha Marie Pinot Noir silky smooth palate of velvety intensity and cola. 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). Earthy rhubarb and pome- —V.B. Ampelos 2016 Lambda Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita granate permeate this wine, which is rich and abv: 13.8% Price: $65 90 Hills). Vibrant in strawberry, baking spice layered in a powerful grip of ripeness and weight. and earth, this estate-grown wine is light, crisp ­Enduring aspects of forest floor, black tea and bak- Marimar 2016 Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita and acid-driven, made in a style of delicacy and ing spice enliven the fruit and toasted oak. —V.B. 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full ­elegance. Its flavors work well within the framework abv: 14.7% Price: $52 review see page 13. of firm, nuanced tannin and integrated oak. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $47 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Gloria Ferrer 2016 Jose S. Ferrer Reserve Selec- 91 tion Pinot Noir (Carneros). Sleek, gritty and Maryetta 2016 Valenti Pinot Noir (Mendocino Belle Glos 2017 Dairyman Pinot Noir (Russian grippy on the palate, this bold, earthy wine shows 91 Ridge). This wine tastes big and bold despite 90 River Valley). Made in a thick and robust an abundance of black tea, currant and orange peel, low alcohol, showing powerful oak influences from style, this hearty red is powerful and weighty in oak the tang continuing with a secondary characteristic the spicy aromas to the firm, slightly astringent tex- and tannin. Spicy seasonings of cinnamon and clove of pomegranate. Toasted oak and tannin round out ture and plethora of oak, cedar, clove and bay leaf highlight rich, viscous flavors of dark cherry and the lengthy, spicy finish. —V.B. nuances. The fruit component is restrained, at least ­berry, with rose aromatics up front and soothing. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 for now. Best after 2023. —J.G. —V.B. abv: 12.7% Price: $45 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 Jess and Jules 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 91 County).­ A wine made in tribute of daughter­­ Metzker Family Estates 2017 Terra de Promissio Carpe Diem 2016 Pinot Noir (Anderson Julia Jackson’s relationship with her late vintner­ 91 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Thick, stony and 90 Valley).­ Earthy, toasty, herbal aromas and ­father, Jess, this wine delivers rich, rewarding edgy in dried herb and ash, this wine is robustly solid black-cherry flavors give this well-balanced smoked cherry and supple texture for a fair price. grainy and textured, with a density of black fruit and attractive medium-bodied wine plenty of per- The luxurious red fruit is cradled in toasted oak and and tannin. Dark cherry and berry mingle around a sonality. Good tangy acidity brightens the mouth- a lasting of cola and baking spice, provid- richness of cola and caramel. —V.B. feel. —J.G. ing plenty of complex flavor.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Pence 2017 Crate Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Crawford Family 2018 Spear Vineyard Pinot­ Joseph Jewell 2016 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 Hills). Earthy herbs, dried berries, bay leaf 90 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Tight and bright aro- 91 (Russian River Valley). Rose petals and can- and caramel cream aromas show on the nose of mas of simple berries, light leather and a hint of died cherry combine on the nose to invite one into this bottling. Cranberry-juice and rose-petal flavors clove show on the nose of this bottling. There is this silky smooth, richly layered wine. Blue- and meet with juniper and stewed berries on the palate. crisp acidity that wraps around the light cherry, black-fruit flavors emphasize a moderate weight —M.K. wood spice and shy nutmeg hints of the palate. and breadth of structure and complexity, finishing abv: 13.5% Price: $28 —M.K. in cola and baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Siduri 2017 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus- 91 sian River Valley). Tasting of strawberry Croix 2017 Thomas Creek Thomas Road Kendall-Jackson 2018 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot­ puree, this fanciful, fruit-forward wine is smooth 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 91 Noir (California). Both flavorful and well and silky in tannin, with a creamy palate that Lush and plush in velvety rich flavors of brown structured, this nicely balanced wine offers ripe appeals. Medium bodied, it offers richness within sugar, baked cherry and strawberry, this is a robust black-cherry, sour cherry and spice elements that context and balance, finishing in fresh acidity. —V.B. and generously red wine, finished in vanilla and are generous but slightly restrained, providing good abv: 14.2% Price: $60 baking spice. —V.B. tension in the texture. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $78 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Sonoma-Cutrer 2017 Vine Hill Flanc De Coteau­ 91 Bloc Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Citrus, Cuvaison 2017 Swan Estate Grown Pinot La Crema 2016 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir cranberry and a creamy texture define this limited- 90 Noir (Los Carneros). This is a micro-lot of 91 (Russian River Valley). Turned earth and pun- production wine, made from the producer’s highest- wine meant to showcase one block of the produc- gent forest give way to thick, concentrated tannin elevation hillside blocks. Balanced, it offers fresh, er’s estate planted to the Swan clone, an heirloom and oak in this hearty, full-bodied red that displays abundant acidity and supple, integrated tannins, clone of the variety. Herbal and tangy in cranberry deft varietal character. Cranberry, strawberry and finishing in forest floor, clove and black tea. —V.B. and rhubarb, it shows subtle, integrated oak and cherry flavors wrap around dried herb and a hint of abv: 14.4% Price: $50 tight, focused acidity, offering structure within light rose, finding seamless harmony on the finish. —V.B. ­concentration. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Tolosa 2018 1772 Edna Ranch Pinot Noir (Edna abv: 13.4% Price: $65 91 Valley). Dark cherry and earthy, damp camp- MacRostie 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). fire aromas meet with wet gravel and savory teri- Foley 2017 JA Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 Floral, silky and succulent, this is a robust, yaki touches on the nose of this bottling. There is 90 Hills). For full review see page 15. full-bodied wine, expressive in blueberries and red- plenty of sizzle to the sip, where bright acid frames abv: 14.3% Price: $55 berry fruit. Dry tannins wrap around ripe layers the smoked cherry and strawberry flavors. —M.K. of richness and texture and are seasoned lightly in abv: 13.4% Price: $72 Gloria Ferrer 2016 Gravel Knob Vineyard dried herb and baking spice. —V.B. 90 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). This estate abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Tolosa 2018 Hollister Edna Ranch Pinot Noir wine is made in small quantities and it shows a 91 (Edna Valley). Roasted game and dried meat reserve-worthy attention to detail. Cherry, pome- aromas meet with smashed pomegranate, dried granate and dried herb give definition to the frame

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 of thick, dense tannin and oak, with an impressive cracker in this robust, full-bodied wine. Supple herb. The acidity boosts and complements the fla- earthiness on the finish. —V.B. tannins lend ample support to give it staying power. vors, adding freshness and contrast. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Joyce 2018 Escolle Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa­ E16 2017 Firefall Pinot Noir (California). 90 Lucia Highlands). Rugged and somewhat Montemar 2015 Barrel Select Pinot Noir 89 This charming, floral and fruity wine has a gamy aromas decorate the background of dried ber- 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). Black raspberry, baked lot going for it, from subtle violet and cherry aro- ries and black plum on the nose of this bottling. The mulberry, wild mint, sagebrush, juniper and black- mas to a smooth mouthfeel and nicely articulated wine is still quite young on the palate, with smashed plum-skin aromas show on the nose of this bottling. cherry-candy flavors. —J.G. berry and black-plum flavors that gain nuance from The palate’s wild herb flavors meet with dark ber- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 the wild tarragon touches. —M.K. ries on the decently complex palate. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 Eric Kent 2016 Small Town Pinot Noir 89 (Sonoma­ Coast). Earthy herbs accent this La Crema 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River Montemar 2015 La Encantada Vineyard light, energetic red wine, boastful in tannin struc- 90 Valley). Spicy, herbal and lively in robust 90 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Hints of tar and ture. The flavors are tangy and tart—a medley of layers of dark cherry and orange, this full-figured, game meet with fresher flashes of mulberry and pomegranate, cranberry and orange that rides along textured wine is powerful and complex. The inte- wild berry on the nose of this bottling. The palate a smooth silky palate. —V.B. gration of oak is impressive, with lasting tannin combines dried plum and tart sumac with cherry- abv: 13.7% Price: $NA structure on offer through a focused finish. —V.B. wood and savory leather flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Frey 2018 Organic Pinot Noir (Mendocino). 89 One of the best purely organic no-sulfites- Lombardi 2017 Hill Justice Vineyard Pinot Montemar 2015 Rancho La Vina Vineyard added Pinots available. A bright fresh fruitiness 90 Noir (Petaluma Gap). Thick, rich and spicy, 90 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Light ­strawberry, is amplified by a spicy earthy quality in this well- this vineyard-designate sings of forest floor and wild raspberry, dewy thyme and peppery spice structured and full-bodied wine. Plenty of vanilla, black tea, with a depth of baked black cherry. Big, aromas show on the nose of this single-vineyard toasted baguette and cinnamon notes mingle with firm tannin structure wraps around toasted oak and expression. Blistered red-plum flavors meet with red- and black-cherry flavors. —J.G. dusty rock. —V.B. leather and oak on the palate. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $68 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 Gloria Ferrer 2015 Estate Pinot Noir Loring Wine Company 2018 Spanish Springs Rodney Strong 2015 Estate Pinot Noir 89 (Carneros).­ Thick, gritty and grippy on the 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). 90 (Sonoma­ Coast). This impresses at its price palate, this wine offers unabashed earthiness and Sour red-plum and dewy sagebrush aromas show point—a sturdy celebration of sage, lavender and full-bodied intensity. The richness is etched in dark on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. The earthy forest, with contrasting layers of deep, dark fruit, tea and mocha. —V.B. palate is more ripe with wild berry and cranberry black cherry, strawberry and blueberry. The wine abv: 14.5% Price: $27 flavors, cut by orange-rind and bay leaf touches. broods, big-shouldered and brimming in tannin, —M.K. with a twist of baking spice as it ends. —V.B. Merryvale 2016 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This abv: 14.3% Price: $54 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 is a bold full-bodied wine, with thick, rich and brawny layers of dense black fruit dipped MacRostie 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River Tamber Bey 2017 Sun Chase Vineyard Pinot in baking spice and toasted oak. A minty, earthy 90 Valley). Creamy red fruit is complemented 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earthy and leathery, under­current adds contrast. —V.B. in a light, buzzy earthiness of tree bark, dried herb this wine shows plenty of red and blue fruit and abv: 14.5% Price: $38 and mineral in this textured midweight wine. The bright acidity, fresh elements that contrast well appellation is well represented, the wine quietly against its essential grip and hearty French oak. Rural 2018 Pinot Noir (Eagle Peak). Very rich in dark cherry, pomegranate and cola. —V.B. —V.B. 89 fruity and nicely concentrated, this full- abv: 14.2% Price: $46 abv: 14.1% Price: $75 bodied wine backs ripe black-cherry flavors with subtle baking spices on a good, hearty structure of MacRostie 2017 The Loch Pinot Noir (Sonoma­ Tolosa 2018 El Coro Vineyard Pinot Noir moderate tannins and fresh acidity. —J.G. 90 Coast). Tangy citrus is further boosted by 90 (Petaluma Gap). From a cool-climate site abv: 14% Price: $25 tart, sharp acidity in this intensely full-bodied, in the new appellation, this red is tangy in acidity ripe and boldly textured wine. The barrel imprint and elusive in fruit, made in a delicate build that Walt 2017 Brown Ranch Pinot Noir (­Carneros). is strong, adding to the weight and breadth of the develops in the glass. Earthy spice underlies a core 89 Soft, supple and thick in cola and brown wine, which finishes in earth and black pepper. of rose petal, cherry and cranberry with firm, supple sugar, this is a deeply concentrated ripe red wine, —V.B. tannin providing structure. —V.B. with dense layers of black cherry. Baking-spice and abv: 14.6% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA dark-chocolate notes dot the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Maryetta 2017 Black Hoop Pinot Noir Walt 2017 Bob’s Ranch Pinot Noir (Sonoma 90 (Anderson­ Valley). This wine is spicy in 90 Coast). This is a highly ripe, generously Willowbrook 2016 Kaufman Sunnyslope flavor, lively and well balanced, and shows an excel- bodied wine, with robust flavors of candied cherry 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). lent interplay between ripe fruit and judicious oak and cola. Earthy stem and forest play around its Rich, creamy and opulent in style, this wine offers a flavors. Subtle toasty, cinnamon aromas lead to red thick, viscous core of baking spice, finishing with framework of red and black cherry, densely layered cherry and black cherry on the palate, braced by plenty of tannin and oak. —V.B. around thick tannin and oak. A touch of forest and subtle tannins and acidity. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 cola round things out on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $28 WindVane 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir Metzker Family Estates 2017 Pinot Noir 90 (Carneros).­ This is an estate-grown wine, Bliss 2017 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Men- 90 (Sonoma Coast). Lifted red fruit on the full bodied and grainy in texture, its midpalate 88 docino). This wine is not openly fruity, but nose is complemented by citrus, oak and graham etched in sharp red fruit, baking spice and dried firm-textured and appetizing, offering moderate

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BUYINGGUIDE tannins and good acidity that frame modest black- forest floor, light leather and damp mushroom aro- Crū 2018 Library Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mon- cherry and plum flavors. These begin to open with a mas show on the nose of this earthy bottling. Dried 87 terey County). Blistered red-cherry, a hint little time in the glass. —J.G. meat flavors make for a gamy palate, where more of hibiscus, rusty mud and more sanguine aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $18 leather and red fruit also arise. —M.K. show on the nose of this bottling. Tart red-plum and abv: 13.6% Price: $46 cranberry flavors meet with thyme and strong sage Carmel Road 2017 Pinot Noir (Monterey). flavors on the slightly bitter palate. —M.K. 88 Dried cherry, leather and baked earth aro- Raeburn 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 13.8% Price: $25 mas arise on the nose of this widely available, fairly 88 Valley).­ Sharp, tangy acidity lies beneath priced bottling. There are earthy tones to the pal- layers of thick, grainy tannin and oak in this intense, Light Horse 2017 Pinot Noir (California). Well ate as well, where dried meat flavors meet with soft full-bodied wine. Forest floor, clove and rhubarb 87 made and easy to enjoy, this medium-bodied cherry and strawberry tones. —M.K. highlight the palate. —V.B. wine offers broadly fruity flavors with a bit of depth, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and a touch of tannin to firm up the texture. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $13 Cline 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Pinot Noir (Sta. 88 This affordable red offers brawny red and 88 Rita Hills). Tangy black-plum and violet Tamber Bey 2017 Walala Vineyard Pinot Noir black cherry and well-spiced accents like cinnamon aromas meet with a bit of caramel on the nose of 87 (Sonoma Coast). Supple and simple in black and nutmeg. Toasted oak adds weight and a touch of this bottling. More plum flavors are enhanced by cherry and black tea, this wine is robust on the mid- sweet vanilla. —V.B. lavender on the somewhat tart palate. —M.K. palate, with a weighty viscous quality to the finish. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.7% Price: $24 —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 Eric Kent 2016 Stilling Vineyard Pinot Noir Sculpterra 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Paso 88 (Russian River Valley). Forested earth, tea 88 Robles).­ The nose on this wine is quite com- Educated Guess 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma and cola highlight a thick, viscous experience on pelling, showing dried cherry, hibiscus, lavender, 86 Coast). Juicy and dark, this red wine is full the palate of soft, supple richness. Made in a hearty roasted pork and rose-hip aromas. The palate lands bodied in style and ripeness, with soft simple layers style, the wine is both fruity in cherry and straw- with a bit of sweetness, offering dark-cherry and of tart red fruit. Dried herb, cola and black tea add berry and seasoned in dried herb and spice. —V.B. strawberry flavors with a pinch of nutmeg. —M.K. to the flavor. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $52 abv: 14.2% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Foley 2016 JA Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Siduri 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Martin Ray 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 88 Hills). Tightly woven and even shy on the 88 County). There’s sour plum and lanolin-like 86 Thick grainy red fruit fits around a tight nose, this bottling offers aromas of cherry, plum and funkiness to the nose of this bottling, which also core of tannin and medium-bodied weight in this smoke. The palate opens a bit to offer dried berry, shows dried red-flower aromas. The palate is loaded approachable red, varietally earthy in forest and fin- purple-flower and black-plum flavors. —M.K. with dried flower and fruit flavors, offering sumac, ished off with a bite of oak. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 violet, game and dried cranberry flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Foley 2016 T Anchor Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Maryetta 2017 Valenti Pinot Noir (Mendocino 88 Rita Hills). Candied pomegranate and cin- Terragena 2017 Abbassi Vineyard Clone 115 86 Ridge). Peppery oaky smoky aromas and fla- namon flavors are showing a touch of early age on 88 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This single-barrel vors grab all the attention in this full-bodied, firm- the nose of this bottling. Ripe cherry flavors are offering aged in neutral French oak is light and deli- textured wine. It comes off a bit tough and woody, lifted by tarragon and anise on the clean palate. cate in color and style, with characteristics of mint, and needs a rich, heavy dish to pair with. —J.G. —M.K. orange and rhubarb that highlight its bristling acid- abv: 13.9% Price: $45 abv: 14.3% Price: $55 ity. Earthy and soft, it finishes focused and fresh. —V.B. Mon Frere 2018 Pinot Noir (California). Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita abv: 13.67% Price: $45 86 This wine is soft and gentle, melting in the 88 Hills). Raspberry paste, wild tarragon and mouth and offering mild cherry-candy and plum cracked peppercorns show on the slightly tangy Wildeye 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- ­flavors on a low-acid texture. —J.G. nose of this bottling. More raspberry meets with 88 lands). Dark red plum, minty eucalyptus, abv: 13.9% Price: $17 cranberry on the palate, where wild herbs and pep- wet gravel and tar aromas show on the nose of this per spice add nuance. —M.K. blend of the Pommard and 777 clones. Concentrated Ternion 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara abv: 14.4% Price: $49 cherry and berry flavors show on the sip, enhanced 86 County-Sonoma County-Monterey County). by wild thyme and zesty acidity. —M.K. Very shy aromas barely allow light cranberry and Matthew Fritz 2018 Pinot Noir (North abv: 14.7% Price: $35 wet earth scents to arise on the nose of this three- 88 Coast). This is a snappy, relatively light- county blend. Simple pomegranate flavors meet bodied wine at a good price, showing tasty raspberry­ Writer’s Block 2017 Pinot Noir (Lake with light earth on the palate. —M.K. and red-cherry flavors and fresh acidity to keep it 88 County).­ A good choice in a pleasant, well- abv: 13.8% Price: $25 lively. —J.G. mannered wine, this bottle offers just-ripe black- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cherry and cinnamon flavors, medium body and a Terragena 2017 Abbassi Vineyard Clone smooth texture. —J.G. 86 ­Pommard Neutral Oak Pinot Noir (­Carneros). Montemar 2015 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Another of the producer’s single-barrel experi- 88 Dense black-plum and dried flower aromas ments, this is minty and herbal with undefined meet with dried meats on the nose of this bottling. Bella Impavida 2017 Pinot Noir (California). fruit, as well as soft supple tannin and low oak. It Dark hibiscus, rose-petal and black-plum-juice 87 Rather light-bodied and enticingly fruity, finishes fast and bright. —V.B. flavors­ meet with soy and oak on the palate. —M.K. this wine sprinkles baking spices over ripe cherry abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $38 and plum flavors while the soft, melting texture feels almost sweet. —J.G. The Lost Chapters 2017 Pinot Noir (­Carneros). Montemar 2015 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $17 86 Minty, herbal and stemmy, this big red wine 88 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Sour red-fruit, funky is crisp and fresh up front, opting for a more robustly­

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 powerful midpalate of plummy concentration and Vokel 2017 Eastside Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian Shafer 2015 Hillside Select Cabernet Sau- thick tannin. —V.B. 83 River Valley). This robustly ripe, concentrated­ 96 vignon (Stags Leap District). Having spent abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and thick wine takes on a sour quality, its tannin pro- three years in barrel, this 100% varietal wine (from file puckering and leaning somewhat green. —V.B. the producer’s famous hillside) is brawny in con- Cherry Pie 2016 Huckleberry Snodgrass abv: 16.5% Price: $70 centrated black fruit, Christmas spice and thick, 85 ­Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Salty oak firm tannin. A dusty thread of crushed rock, black emphasizes the brawny intensity of this red wine, licorice and flint provide exotic accents to the vel- thick in cola, tar and hugely concentrated flavors of CABERNET SAUVIGNON vety thick grip. This will do well over time; enjoy cherry vanilla. Made in a robust, full-bodied style, best from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. it’s beyond rich in approach. —V.B. Heitz 2014 Martha’s Vineyard Caber- abv: 15.5% Price: $310 abv: 14.9% Price: $50 100 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the famous Oakville site, this aged wine spends three Spottswoode 2016 Family Estate Grown Gloria Ferrer 2016 Estate Grown Pinot Noir years in 100% new French oak, one in neutral oak 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Blended 85 (Carneros). Minty earth and dried herb and an additional year in bottle. Though it has had with small percents of Cabernet Franc and Petit highlight this full-bodied wine, thick in strawberry time to evolve, it has years to go to unfurl its core of Verdot, this vintage marks the winery’s 35th year jam and baked cherry. Dense, it has only moderate eucalyptus, mint and cedar. It shows an unmistak- of making this wine, the grapes all estate-grown structure, falling flat on the short finish. —V.B. able crispness of red fruit, orange peel and stone, and organically farmed. Rich and grippy, it expands abv: 14.5% Price: $27 all honed by a grippy, generous palate. Enjoy 2024– to ­reveal expressive notes of dried herb, leather 2034. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and salty stone, at first demure in black fruit, with La Crema 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 14.5% Price: $275 an ­elegant structure and undoubtable time to age. 85 Stemmy and earthy, this wine is thick in ­Enjoy best from 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. tannin and demure in red fruit, with a simplicity DuMOL 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $225 that works well within its medium-bodied context 97 Valley).­ Salty toffee, licorice and bold black and structure. —V.B. fruit meet a density of oak and grip in this complex, Venge 2016 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ultimately beguiling and memorable wine. Struc- 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From tured and sturdy, it offers a juicy undercurrent of the historic vineyard in Oakville, this wine is a Tehachapi 2017 Pinot Noir (California). This freshness that complements and impresses, leaving power­house expression of juicy blue fruit, cedar and 85 full-bodied wine is packed with oak spices a lengthy impression of elegant power. This wine oak. The savory, sultry and velvety smooth nature of that tend to overwhelm the nearly sweet raspberry will do well in the cellar; enjoy best from 2027– its luxurious texture takes on additional seasonings and red-cherry flavors. Toasted oak, baking spices 2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. of clove and black pepper, with an enviable plushness and cedar provide most of the substance. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $119 on the palate that lasts from start to finish. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $38 abv: 14.9% Price: $125 Alpha Omega 2016 Beckstoffer Georges III Tuli 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). This 96 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Alpha Omega 2016 Beckstoffer To Kalon 85 wine is spicy, earthy and thin in fruit, with Rich red and blue fruit and a bright burst of orange 95 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). faint notions of strawberry and rhubarb popping peel highlight a firm, tense and generously tannic Deep red fruit evokes currant and cassis—rich, con- through on the midpalate. A leathery texture loses red wine, grippy and lasting in baking spice, clove centrated flavors that complement notions of iron, steam and structure on the finish. —V.B. and dried herb. Bold, full bodied and robustly struc- graphite and dusty rock. Supple and full of length abv: 13.6% Price: $27 tured, it has years to go; enjoy best from 2026–2031. and breadth, it has structure to age and long-lasting Cellar Selection. —V.B. seasonings of oak and cocoa powder. Enjoy best Cherry Pie 2016 Rodgers Creek Pinot Noir abv: 14.8% Price: $250 from 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 84 (Sonoma Coast). This hearty red is reduced abv: 15.2% Price: $250 and generous in oak, with dense, thickly concen- Alpha Omega 2016 Beckstoffer Las Piedras trated flavors of cherry cola and baked plum. It has 96 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Alpha Omega 2016 Era Cabernet Sauvignon bold viscosity and lasting vanilla. —V.B. This spectacular wine is surprisingly supple, and 95 (Napa Valley). This blends grapes from sev- abv: 14.9% Price: $50 offers well integrated tannins and a mineral-thread eral marquee vineyards across the valley, all vari- of crushed rock. The midpalate unleashes dense, etal. Bold and bursting in dried herb, graphite and Cherry Pie 2015 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir inky layers of brooding blackberry, cherry, iron and dust, it dazzles in supple blue fruit, cassis and black 84 (Napa Valley). This wine is ripe, robust and flint, with a lasting richness and structure that sug- licorice, its core of full-bodied richness entirely oaky, with a salty quality to its thick layers of baked gests further aging. Best from 2026–2031. Cellar integrated, seamless and graceful on the lengthy, jammy red fruit. —V.B. Selection. —V.B. spicy palate. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $50 abv: 15.2% Price: $250 abv: 15.6% Price: $315

Hendry 2016 Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). This Clos du Val 2016 Hirondelle Vineyard Estate Alpha Omega 2016 Stagecoach Vineyard 84 wine tastes slightly out of balance, tart one 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Sumptu- moment in earthy spice, generously ripe and robust For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. ous and inviting, this wine has pretty aromatics of in cherry vanilla the next. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 clove and mocha, followed through on the dense, abv: 14.8% Price: $36 structured palate in black cherry and currant. Heitz 2014 Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Mountainous tannins wrap around an underlying Topophilia 2017 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This 96 vignon (Napa Valley). From a Rutherford softness and supple luxury, with a lasting bite of 84 wine has a hearty earthiness that detracts site, this 100% varietal, estate wine is aged simi- baking spice. —V.B. from the strawberry and cherry fruit—the style larly to the producer’s fine Martha’s Vineyard bot- abv: 15.2% Price: $250 full-bodied and robustly ripe with funky oak. Minty tling, given plenty of time in new and neutral oak ­eucalyptus is threaded throughout. —V.B. as well as in bottle. Beguiling spice and a warmth Alpha Omega 2016 Sunshine Valley Vineyard abv: 14.6% Price: $45 of red fruit provide tangy freshness around lengthy 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). layers of salty oak, iron and baked plum. —V.B. Reduced and savory in gun smoke, tobacco and up- abv: 14.5% Price: $125 front oak, this wine offers an intensity of concen-

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BUYINGGUIDE trated blackberry, currant and lavender, with full- structured and refined. Enjoy this wine best from Jax 2017 68 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon bodied ripeness and power. Generously structured, 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 92 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. the tannins are robust and lengthy, suggesting abv: 14.8% Price: $165 Editors’ Choice. further aging. Enjoy best from 2026–2031. Cellar abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Selection­ . —V.B. Yao Family Wines 2016 Yao Ming Family abv: 15% Price: $250 94 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lava Cap 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (El For full review see page 7. 92 Dorado).­ For full review see page 10. Corison 2016 Kronos Vineyard Cabernet abv: 15.4% Price: $225 abv: 14.5% Price: $32 95 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Given 20 months in French oak, half of it new, this is a remarkably Chimney Rock 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Le Vigne 2016 Di Domenico Riservato Caber- supple, complex and elegantly crafted wine from 93 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full 92 net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review the great site, a monument to the happy marriage review see page 7. see page 11. between winemaker and site, the latter still on abv: 14.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $59 St. George rootstock and over four-decades old in age. Cedar, rose, tangy currant and ash ride along a Jax 2017 Estate Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon McClain Cellars 2017 Sacred Love Cabernet thread of crisp, persistent acidity and thick tannin. 93 (Calistoga). For full review see page 8. 92 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Pleasantly This wine will do well in the cellar; enjoy best from abv: 14.9% Price: $125 plump aromas of blackberry and cherry meet with 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. smoked beef, wet stone and potting soil on the nose abv: 13.3% Price: $195 Patel 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa of this bottling. There is strong tension to the sip, 93 Valley).­ Woody oak, clove and black pep- where ripe blackberry, wild herb and charred wood Heitz 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa per greet the nose and palate in this 100% varietal flavors are framed in fresh acidity and pleasantly 95 Valley).­ Woody, herbal and elegantly struc- wine, robustly complex and structured in supple, sticky tannins. —M.K. tured, this wine is high-toned and freshly layered firm tannin. Thick meaty layers of blackberry, abv: 14% Price: $69 in bold red fruit. Given time in the barrel and the ­tobacco and dark chocolate combine well, providing bottle, it shows its graceful edges and nuanced richness and density. —V.B. Patel 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ­elegance with ease, finishing in dusty crushed rock. abv: 14.9% Price: $125 92 (Coombsville). This well-made small-­ It vastly overdelivers on its price point. Editors’ production wine showcases the appellation well, Choice. —V.B. Robert Mondavi 2016 Maestro Cabernet Sau- offering a thick, richly constructed and creamy abv: 14.5% Price: $63 93 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see core of black and blue fruit complemented by rocky page 9. Cellar Selection. stone and iron. Generous oak underrides and adds Venge 2017 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet abv: 15% Price: $50 ­seasoning to the fruit and texture. —V.B. 95 Sauvignon (Calistoga). For full review see abv: 15.2% Price: $150 page 5. Cellar­ Selection. Silenus 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- abv: 14.8% Price: $115 93 ley). For full review see page 9. Pine & Brown 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $72 92 (Napa Valley). This is a 100% varietal wine Alpha Omega 2016 Cordes Vineyard Cab- sourced from several vineyards within Rutherford 94 ernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Thick and Cakebread 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and Yountville. Juicy and supple in red currant, flinty in iron, this is a wine of Old World elegance 92 Valley). Blended with 9% Merlot, 5% Cab- orange and lavender, it is buzzy and fresh, with a and structure with New World power and weight. ernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this bold full-­ length of baking spice and earthiness that round out Tea, clove and dried herb season black licorice and bodied red impresses in its thick, intensely concen- the balanced, complex palate. —V.B. blackberry, the wine tannic and generous in toasted trated layers of rich red fruit and leathery texture. abv: 14.4% Price: $72 oak. —V.B. The tannins are well integrated and firmly struc- abv: 14.9% Price: $250 tured, with new French oak showing in the swathes Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Artemis Caber- of vanilla and toast. —V.B. 92 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Plum, mocha Mirror 2016 Cimarrosa Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.9% Price: $68 and turned earth highlight the palate of this robust, 94 (Howell Mountain). This robust wine is full-bodied and powerfully broad red wine, tense in nicely put together, with strong elements of turned Gamble Family Vineyards 2016 Cabernet firm tannin and a cradling of toasted oak. The acid- earth, dried herb, sage and mint. Chalky tannins 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dusty rock, sage ity helps to balance its heft, leaving a note of lasting support a dusty underbelly of texture and rocky and cedar highlight a lively palate of balanced con- freshness on the spicy finish. —V.B. minerality, developed in dense layers of cedar and centration and ripeness in this well-made wine. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 black cherry. —V.B. Blended with small percentages of Malbec, Merlot, abv: 14.5% Price: $120 Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it has integrated Vineyard 36 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa tannin and toasted oak elements that add power 92 Valley). From a selection of fine vineyards Venge 2017 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvignon without distraction to the earthy red fruit and across the appellation, as well as 10% Merlot, this 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. vanilla.­ —V.B. wine is made by Keith Emerson. Currant, clove, Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 soy and leather accent a bold, integrated palate of abv: 14.8% Price: $60 brawny blackberry varietal character and intensely Indigené 2017 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvi- packed power, finishing in a touch of ash and oak. Venge 2016 Family Reserve Cabernet 92 gnon (Carmel Valley). Dried blackberry jam, Cellar Selection. —V.B. 94 Sauvignon (Oakville). Soft and smoothly crumpled rose petals and an array of purple flow- abv: 14.6% Price: $125 ­integrated, this 100% varietal wine is explosive ers come through on the nose of this bottling from in blueberry, cassis and a juicy center of currant. Carmel Valley, where winemaking goes back to the Vineyard 36 2017 Five Bands Cabernet Powerfully concentrated and memorable, it adds 1960s. The thick, hefty mouthfeel is supported by 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft, rounded complexity as it develops, showing deft elements of well polished tannins, delivering flavors of black- and rich in black fruit, clove and leather, this is a clove, gun smoke and oak, the tannins substantially berry jam, licorice, white pepper, cocoa and coffee. brawny, full-bodied and powerfully built wine with —M.K. an intensity of sage, coffee and dark chocolate. The abv: 13.9% Price: $50 tannins are structured and dense, supportive of the

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 fruit, and will do well with more age. Enjoy best Le Vigne 2017 Di Domenico Cabernet Sauvi- Decoy 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 91 gnon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 90 County). For full review see page 14. Edi- abv: 15.09% Price: $225 12. tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Acumen 2017 Mountainside Cabernet Sauvi- 91 gnon (Napa Valley). Earthy truffle combines Robert Mondavi 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Eli Madyson 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon effortlessly with rich red fruit in this full-bodied 91 (Oakville). Blended with 9% Malbec, 7% 90 (South Coast). For full review see page 14. wine, which is blended with small amounts of Cab- ­Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot, this wine is juicy, thick Editors’ Choice. ernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. Currant, cassis and and meaty, with bold flavors of black currant, black abv: 14% Price: $42 a tease of orange peel weigh in against grippy tannin pepper and tobacco. A leathery texture contrib- and leather. —V.B. utes additional savory complexity around densely Ferrari-Carano 2016 PreVail Back Forty abv: 14.5% Price: $65 packed tannin. —V.B. 90 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For abv: 14.5% Price: $65 full review see page 14. Addendum 2016 Stagecoach Vineyard Caber- abv: 15.1% Price: $90 91 net Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). and Wallis Family Estate 2017 Denali Estate Vine- cedar give this wine an earthy, savory profile that 91 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). From Hanna 2016 Red Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon is followed by clove and black currant. Entirely the heart of the appellation, this valley floor red 90 (Alexander Valley). This is a supple, high- ­varietal, it is hearty and robust in tannin and power, is 100% varietal and impresses in its high-toned toned wine,­ hearty and rich in cherry and vanilla- with bold, full-bodied texture and weight, the oak red fruit and rich coconut oak. Cedar, pencil shav- laden oak. Easy to enjoy, it is fruit-forward and intertwined and pronounced. —V.B. ings and black currant provide a contrast of savory weighty, with a lasting hint of baking spice on the abv: 14.9% Price: $99 flavor around robust, expansive tannin and supple finish. —V.B. structure. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Broadside 2017 Blackletter Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.7% Price: $125 91 vignon (Paso Robles). Deep and dark in the Indigené 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso glass, this bottling from two appellations in Paso Addendum 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 90 Robles). Smooth aromas of blistered black Robles shows earthy aromas of dried cherries, 90 Valley). A 100% varietal appellation wine, cherry and cola show on the nose of this bottling. charred wood, dusty herbs and light licorice. There this is earthy in sage and pencil shavings, with a The palate proves to be a pleasantly down-the-­ is heft to the thick palate, where a lush texture car- mild, softly smooth structure of rich blueberry and middle expression of the grape, offering both cherry ries flavors of black plum, dark berry and peppery black currant. Thick concentration emphasizes the and an array of nutmeg and cola spices. —M.K. spice, with the acidity becoming quite apparent on firm tannin and generous oak, with a finishing touch abv: 14.7% Price: $50 the finish. —M.K. of mocha. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.9% Price: $90 Kendall-Jackson 2017 Jackson Estate 90 ­Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Cakebread 2016 Benchland Select Cabernet Addendum 2016 Skellenger Lane Cabernet (Alexander­ Valley). This mountain-grown wine 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a 100% 90 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Leathery thick and displays firm, hearty tannins and smoky oak on the varietal wine given nearly two years in French oak, dusty tannins surround a robust core of black fruit back of the palate, which support rich, full-bodied a large percentage of it new. Built to age, it shows and earthy cedar in this vineyard-designated wine, brambly blackberry and cherry. Sweet tobacco, structure and weighty tannin, with smoky oak, an herbal Old World offering of quietcomplexity ­ crushed rock and clove add a length and breadth of­ toasted black currant and earthy forest floor. Cedar, and lasting ripeness. —V.B. earthiness that contrasts well. —V.B. sage and tobacco round it out nicely to add further abv: 14.9% Price: $99 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 complexity. Enjoy best from 2026–2031. Cellar Selection­ . —V.B. Allen Estate Wines 2016 Audacieux Sugar- Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2016 1856 abv: 14.9% Price: $140 90 loaf Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). (Napa Valley). Sinewy leather, tobacco and thick Blended with 1% Merlot, this robust wine is juicy, Doffo 2017 Private Reserve Cabernet Sau- black fruit define this hearty, full-bodied wine, dusty and restrained in style, with a length of 91 vignon (Temecula Valley). Strong aromas which presents as richly concentrated and soft. ­varietal character. This shows in highlights of cedar,­ of black cherry, sharp herbal spice, baked soil and Well-integrated oak and tannin add to the weight currant and dried herb, a splash of black pepper leather kick off the nose to this rich bottling. There and breadth. —V.B. coming to the fore on the finish. —V.B. is a fine line of blackberry pie with pencil shavings, abv: 14.6% Price: $85 abv: 14.6% Price: $185 toasted oak and baked earth on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $79 Brookman 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Mirror 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 90 Valley). From winemaker Gary Brookman 90 Valley).­ Herbal and earthy, this appellation J. Lohr 2017 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso of Miner Family Wines, this hearty red is earthy, wine showcases a thick middle of intensely power- 91 Robles). For full review see page 12. Editors’ dusty and powerfully soft in tart red fruit. Hints of ful ripeness complemented by a richness of plum. Choice. leather, cocoa powder and toasted oak round out the The oak is supportive and adds a touch of baking abv: 14.9% Price: $35 elegant structure and style. —V.B. spice and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 15.1% Price: $95 Judge Palmer 2016 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a full- Clif Family 2016 Kit’s Killer Cab Cabernet Mueller 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond bodied, supple and smooth wine from the mighty 90 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). This is an 90 Mountain District). This is a thick rich wine mountain site, well developed in dried herb, dusty estate wine blended with 15% Petite Sirah that’s made in limited quantities from grapes grown on the rock and graphite earthiness. The aromas lean into generously robust and tannic. Turned earth, bal- heights of the mountain appellation. Dense blue- inviting violet and sage as the earthy components samic and concentrated black fruit are comple- berry, blackberry and sage combine around firm, are balanced by a richness of cassis. —V.B. mented by a richness of mocha and baking spice expansive tannin and generous oak, with structure abv: 14.7% Price: $125 that overwhelm the palate. —V.B. and powerful grace. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 abv: 14.8% Price: $120

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Noble Vines 2017 337 Cabernet Sauvignon berry on the palate, while a tangy, lightly tannic Jamie Slone Wines 2014 Duo Reserve 90 (California). For full review see page 17. ­texture keeps it from being heavy. —J.G. 88 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $40 Santa­ Barbara). Tangy black-plum-skin aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $13 meet with dark herbs on the nose of this bottling. Akash 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Temecula That tangy aspect extends to the palate, where One Acre 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- 88 Valley). Plump blackberry, black-currant pepper­corn and baking-spice elements become 90 ville). For full review see page 15. and dark strawberry aromas meet with crushed more prominent with patience. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 slate and oak aromas on the vivid nose of this bot- abv: 13.8% Price: $65 tling. The plate is quite ripe, with nearly sweet Silenus 2017 Tyros Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry-jam flavors and a gravelly tension, with Le Vigne 2017 Appellation Series Cabernet 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 16. ample tannin and acid. —M.K. 88 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Roasted red- Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $52 cherries, vanilla, rusty earth and wood aromas show abv: 14.5% Price: $32 on the nose of this bottling. It’s a down-the-middle Allen Estate Wines 2016 Audacieux Knights expression on the palate, where bright red-fruit and Smith & Hook 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Link Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma bittersweet cocoa flavors are framed by leathery 90 (Central Coast). For full review see page 16. County). This is a lightly textured, full-bodied wine, tannins. —M.K. Editors’ Choice. overt and generous in tannin and oak. Dried herb, abv: 13.9% Price: $27 abv: 14.8% Price: $25 cedar and clove provide a savory landscape against which cherry, cassis and currant can play with ease. Prothro 2016 Signature Release Cabernet Tanner 2016 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet —V.B. 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a nearly 90 Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). This smooth abv: 14.9% Price: $55 100% varietal wine aged 21 months in a mixture of and textural wine blends plenty of oak spices with new and neutral oak. Brawny and herbaceous, it is good rich black-cherry and dark-chocolate flavors­ Allen Estate Wines 2015 Audacieux Stanford thick in black fruit, clove and cedar, with a powerful that coat the palate and linger on the finish. Moder- 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). finish. —V.B. ate tannins firm up the texture for very good ­balance. Truffled earth, mocha and clove contrast against abv: 14.6% Price: $75 Best through 2023. —J.G. ­cedar and dried herb in this oak-influenced red wine. abv: 15.1% Price: $59 Leathery texture and firm tannin add to its power, Sculpterra 2017 Bentley Ironworks Cabernet the fruit tart in currant with noticeable acidity. —V.B. 88 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). There is a pleas- Wallis Family Estate 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.1% Price: $125 ant blackberry freshness to the nose of this bottling 90 gnon (Diamond Mountain District). Leath- along with light hints of wood. It’s lightly bodied on ery tobacco and an earthy hint of gravel open this Bliss 2017 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvi- the palate, where red-currant and dark spice flavors full-bodied wine, which follows with a sizable con- 88 gnon (Mendocino). This is a good, hearty, ride a taut structure. —M.K. centration of wild blueberry fruit. Accents of vanilla well-built wine from the old school, showing black- abv: 14.7% Price: $68 and coconut highlight the integrated oak, which olive and bell pepper nuances along with slightly persists on the long finish. —V.B. tart black-cherry flavors. It’s well balanced, palate- Trestle Glen 2017 Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.7% Price: $100 cleansing and should pair easily at the dinner table. 88 (Sonoma Valley). A partnership between —J.G. Bruce Cohn and Tom Montgomery, this robust wine Wallis Family Estate 2017 Seraphim Caber- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 is earthy in sage and black licorice, with hearty red 90 net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain District). fruit at its core. Rich vanilla adds to the lushness of This is a 100% varietal wine from the burly moun- Buena Vista 2016 Chateau Buena Vista the oak profile, joining firm dry tannins. —V.B. tain appellation, boldly conceived and grippy in 88 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). S o ft abv: 14.4% Price: $75 structure. Dusty plum, tobacco and clove accent a and ­approachable in richness and ripeness, this big full-bodied grasp of length and breadth, the finish bold wine is full of blueberry-jam and chocolate- Ty Caton 2016 Four Rows Select Ty ­Caton splendid in dark chocolate. —V.B. mocha flavors, with a moderate structure that keeps 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Moon abv: 14.7% Price: $175 it round in the glass. Cedar, dust and oak accent the ­Mountain District Sonoma County). Earthy in sage, lushness. —V.B. lavender and tobacco, this hearty wine offersrobust ­ Intercoastal 2014 Select Reserve Cabernet abv: 15% Price: $50 tannin and blue fruit, finishing with moderate 89 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Pencil shavings structure and length. —V.B. and leather give this wine a savory introduction, Charles Krug 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 15% Price: $65 with a soft midpalate that leads to generous tannin. 88 gnon (Napa Valley). Sweet cola, dried herb The aged wine has intensity without complexity, and dry tannin present with ease in this full-bod- Waterstone 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ­offering a smooth approachable impression. —V.B. ied, approachable wine, made in a widely appeal- 88 Valley). Sinewy and simple in ­leather, black abv: 14% Price: $78 ing style. Blended with small amounts of Merlot cherry and toffee, this approachable red is full bod- and Petit Verdot, it offers an opulence of blueberry, ied and softly concentrated. It finishes in aspects of Saddleback Cellars 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon black cherry and cocoa powder. —V.B. cedar and dried herb, the oak well contained. —V.B. 89 (Napa Valley). This wine is lightly spiced abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 14.8% Price: $36 and herbal, with pronounced notes of earth and ­cedar. Fleshy and fruit-forward, it has soft inte- Firestone 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ancient Peaks 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon grated tannins and oak that blend well with the cas- 88 Robles). Plenty of herbal aromas kick off 87 (Santa Margarita Ranch). Dark blackberry sis and currant. —V.B. the nose of this bottling, including hints of fennel and cedar meet with reductive tar and wild mints on abv: 14.4% Price: $75 and toasted oregano, and there is also a dried cherry the nose of this bottling. Concentrated black-plum component. The oregano shows on the clean palate and caramel flavors converge on the palate, where a Tanner 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- as well, where sandy tannins hold up dried fruit strong burst of acid is a bit untethered. —M.K. 89 vignon (Sierra Foothills). This full-bodied ­flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 and ripe-tasting wine leads with smoky, anise-like abv: 13.9% Price: $17 aromas and then piles vivid black cherry and black- Brice Station 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet 87 Sauvignon (Calaveras County). Very ripe

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 and very relaxed, this almost-sweet wine smells sourced this vintage from Spring Mountain, the rest 100% varietal wine. Full bodied and rich, it has a and tastes like grape jam and blackberry preserves, from other parts of California. Earthy blueberry, densely viscous finish. —V.B. as those rich fruit flavors coat the taste buds. The black cherry and cola spice combine around supple, abv: 14.5% Price: $38 mouthfeel is big and soft, with very little tannin ­substantial tannin. —V.B. showing through the full body. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Roth 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Alexander abv: 13.5% Price: $30 86 Valley). Thick, dry tannin surround a Raymond 2016 District Collection Cabernet hearty core of generous oak and robust red fruit in Comstock Wines 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Sauvignon (Calistoga). Grippy, sizable tan- this approachable,­ fruit-forward wine. Dried herb, 87 (Alexander Valley). Herbal with elements of nin remains prominent throughout on the palate of tobacco and clove accent the toasted vanilla and sage and rock, this wine offers dry, robust tannin this robust, full-bodied red wine. Crayon, plum and coconut. —V.B. and generous oak, the core of its thick black fruit chocolate flavor the midpalate, building weight and abv: 14.9% Price: $30 largely concentrated and ripe. —V.B. texture as it heads to a forceful finish. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 15% Price: $95 Ty Caton 2016 Private Reserve Cabernet 86 Sauvignon (Moon Mountain District Sonoma Joseph Carr 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Tortoise Creek 2016 Cherokee Lane Cabernet County). Earthy and thick in concentrated black 87 Valley). Offering great value, this red wine is 87 Sauvignon (Lodi). This well-made, flavorful fruit, this wine offers big oak, iron and unpolished hearty in toasted oak, clove and cedar, with a mid- and full-bodied wine pours almost-jammy berry fla- tannin, the 100% varietal nature of this red means palate of juicy jammy black fruit. Well integrated vors over tempting baking spices. It feels rich and it is rustic around the edges. —V.B. and rounded, yet balanced, it finishes in a lovely mouthcoating and downplays any tannins in the abv: 15.1% Price: $90 swirl of mocha. —V.B. texture. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $27 abv: 13.8% Price: $12 CULT 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). 85 Earthy but tasty aromas and flavors of beef Lapis Luna 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Ty Caton 2016 Ty Caton Vineyard Cabernet and tobacco give this wine a rustic personality. It is 87 An attractive salt-and-pepper character 87 Sauvignon (Moon Mountain District Sonoma medium to full bodied, and soft in terms of tannin. gives this full-bodied wine more of a savory per- County). Sticky grippy tannins make a bold state- —J.G. sonality than a fruity one. Black-fruit flavors stay in ment in this wine, barrel-influenced in toasted oak abv: 14% Price: $20 the background, while moderate tannins add a bit of and a touch of reduction. Stemmy earth pervades grip in the texture. —J.G. across black currant and a note of tobacco. —V.B. Light Horse 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- abv: 14.4% Price: $13 abv: 15.2% Price: $44 85 fornia). Lots of spicy oak meets very ripe, jammy fruit flavors in this medium- to full-bodied Le Vigne 2016 Vatani’s King Cabernet Sau- Cabrillo 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa wine, as mild tannins add a bit of structure. It is 87 vignon (Paso Robles). Lighter touches of 86 Valley). This 100% varietal wine is plummy,­ oaky for sure, but not as extreme as some in this blackberry jelly, dried herbs, charred oak and a with baked flavors that present as softly ripe and price range. —J.G. pinch of hibiscus show on the nose of this bottling, plush. A touch of dried herb, cedar and oak appear abv: 14% Price: $13 whose label features a lion. It’s leaner on the palate, midpalate, as the wine heads to an easy finish. —V.B. with red-fruit, earthy herb and damp wood flavors. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2015 Hidden —M.K. 85 Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 13.9% Price: $27 Frey 2018 Biodynamic Cabernet Sauvignon This wine is brawny in chalky tannin and graphite 86 (Mendocino). A deep, dark color and pun- notes, with a heaviness and intensity of espresso. Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2015 ­Reserve gent aromas of coffee and compost mark this wine The fruit is hard to pin down, somewhat thick in 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain as something unusual, but it delivers rich, dark- concentration, with oak underpinning it all. —V.B. District). Herbal and dusty, this wine is lean in red chocolate and black-cherry flavors that fill the abv: 14.8% Price: $65 fruit and well integrated in tannin. The oak is pro- mouth. With a little attitude adjustment for its nounced, the wine having spent 22 months in wood. ­organic status—including no added sulfites—it’s Clos de Napa Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- The finish is smooth in chocolate. —V.B. enjoyable. —J.G. 84 gnon (Rutherford). A soft, lightly spiced red abv: 14.8% Price: $85 abv: 14.3% Price: $20 that is voluptuous in baked, jammy black fruit and mocha, this wine is approachable and easygoing in Peirano 2017 The Heritage Collection Cabernet Judge Palmer 2016 Vintage Select Caber- style. —V.B. 87 Sauvignon (Lodi). Fresh, jammy aromas and 86 net Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is a abv: 14.5% Price: $50 vibrant, ripe fruit flavors give this medium-bodied robustly tannic, full-bodied and richly concentrated wine plenty of cheery energy, while a relatively soft wine, offering a combination of dark chocolate, Precision Wine 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon texture and low tannins take it easy on the texture. cassis, blueberry and dried herb. The oak is pro- 84 (Napa Valley). Herbal and oaky, this is a siz- —J.G. nounced and interwoven, adding vanilla and baking able red wine with grippy tannin weight and a last- abv: 13.8% Price: $14 spice to the mix. —V.B. ing taste of cedar and toasted oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Precision Wine 2017 Arachnid Cabernet 87 Sauvignon (Oakville). Blended with 12% Member’s Mark 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Tehachapi 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- ­Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot, 86 (Paso Robles). Fresh currants, wild mint 84 fornia). Woody, spicy, smoky flavors stand this big red is oaky and tannic, with dense layers of and a touch of tobacco show on the nose of this bot- apart from the fruit flavors in this full-bodied, split- chocolate and plum. Dried herb, cedar and a gener- tling. It’s a bit thin on the plate, where tart cranberry­ personality wine. The oakiness is strong and over- ously jammy, plush palate give it a likable richness and dusty herb flavors show.Best Buy. —M.K. whelms a bit of black cherry underneath. —J.G. and approachability. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 15% Price: $29 Precision Wine 2018 Bound Cabernet Sau- Bella Impavida 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Punch 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (­California). 86 vignon (Alexander Valley). A thick, herbal 83 (California). Heavy cinnamon and wood 87 This wine’s label uses a secret code to nose of clove and cedar lead the way to a core of smoke aromas lead to ponderous oak and smoke ­inform buyers that the majority of its grapes are thick blackberry and oak in this value-minded,

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BUYINGGUIDE flavors in this one-dimensional, full-bodied wine. flavors that are more prominent than the black-plum Silenus 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). Made —J.G. and black-olive core. It’s tannic and ­structured, 91 from 76% Merlot and 24% Cabernet Sau- abv: 14% Price: $17 ­giving a gripping texture. —J.G. vignon from the producer’s estate in Oak Knoll, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 this powerful red is pungent in turned earth and Clos de Napa Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- leather. It shows thick, sinewy structure and tangy 83 gnon (Oakville). This 100% varietal wine is Writer’s Block 2017 Cabernet Franc (Lake red fruit—a mix of raspberry and currant dipped in offers astringent tannins and severe acidity. The red 87 County). Firmly structured and tightly tan- vanilla. It could stand more time in the bottle; enjoy fruit leans sour, ending on a leathery finish. —V.B. nic, this wine holds its nervy red-cherry, dried herb best from 2021–2026. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and dusty oak flavors very close. The tannins are abv: 14.5% Price: $45 gripping and conspire with good acidity for a lean Centered 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa texture. Best after 2023. —J.G. Whitehall Lane 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). 82 Valley). Green, herbal notes dominate this abv: 13.8% Price: $18 91 For full review see page 13. wine. The palate feels unbalanced, with a flatness abv: 14.7% Price: $32 to the fruit. —V.B. Gershon Bachus 2015 Erato Cabernet Franc abv: 14.5% Price: $25 86 (Temecula Valley). Tart blackberry and Ancient Peaks 2017 Merlot (Santa Margarita black plum mix with a kiss of oak on the acetic nose 90 Ranch). For full review see page 14. of this bottling. More tang shows on the sip, where abv: 14.8% Price: $20 CABERNET FRANC black plum and vanilla meet with violet. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $60 Écluse 2017 Merlot (Paso Robles). This is a Mineral Wines 2017 Cabernet Franc (Sierra 90 sprightly and mellow take on Merlot, start- 92 Foothills). Deep and powerful fruit flavors ing with aromas of dried strawberry, new leather energize this full-bodied wine from within, stream- MERLOT and baked earth. Fresh hints of tart cherry and ing black cherry and blackberry across the palate as dried red plums are lifted by light herbs and dust on well-integrated tannins build a hefty but smooth Venge 2017 Kenefick Ranch Merlot the palate—a great pasta pairing. Editors’ Choice. texture. Subtle oak spices of vanilla and cinnamon 93 (Calistoga).­ This is a powerfully built, —M.K. emerge with time in the glass. Best through 2024. indelibly memorable wine from a well-known site, abv: 13.1% Price: $38 —J.G. its soils littered in volcanic ash. Sweet plum, mocha, abv: 14.7% Price: $29 vanilla and thick rich round tannins give it a robust Frostwatch 2015 Merlot (Bennett Valley). intensity that works within its chiseled structure 90 This estate, 100% varietal wine is thick in Occasio 2016 Del Arroyo Cabernet Franc and complex nature. —V.B. blueberry, plum and currant flavors, with a comple- 92 (Livermore Valley). Powerful fruit flavors abv: 14.9% Price: $75 mentary flinty herbal earthiness. A finishing touch meet spicy oak and a good, firm texture in this of mocha accents the toasted oak and vanilla spice. concentrated and well-balanced wine from a tiny, Darioush 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). ­Blended —V.B. quality-focused producer. The tasty black-cherry 92 with 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% abv: 14.9% Price: $35 and tobacco notes have great depth and length. Best ­Malbec, this is hearty fare, a deeply concentrated­ through 2026. —J.G. wine rich in dark plum, black currant and coffee. Grgich Hills 2016 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa abv: 14.3% Price: $45 With generous tannins in support, it takes on com- 90 Valley). ­For full review see page 15. plex seasonings of flint, tobacco and cedar, working abv: 14.6% Price: $43 Sol Rouge 2015 Cabernet Franc (Red Hills). well against the dense fruit. —V.B. 92 This is a big, rich, opulent wine that is con- abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Merryvale 2017 Merlot (Napa Valley). A centrated and deep in fruit, olive and herb flavors, 90 100% varietal wine, with a touch of reduc- and nicely structured. Aged in French oak for 30 Pope Valley Winery 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley).­ tion, this opens in grippy black and red currant and months, it offers an abundance of fine-grained tan- 92 This is a juicy, spicy and soft wine, balanced sinewy texture, the tangy fruit seasoned in sage and nins that coat the palate and help the roasted black- in ripeness and approach, that delivers high-toned, cedar. Full bodied, it offers intensity and a lasting plum flavors linger on the finish. —J.G. complex flavors of black cherry and plum. Seduc- touch of toasted oak. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 tively silky, it offers structure and brightness within abv: 14.5% Price: $50 moderation. —V.B. Andis 2017 Cabernet Franc (Sierra Foothills). abv: 13.7% Price: $38 Vindemia 2016 Merlot (Temecula Valley). 89 This concentrated and firmly structured 90 Intense aromas of dark cherry and charred wine needs time in the cellar to resolve its grippy Comstock Wines 2016 Estate Merlot (Dry wood are balanced by a strong stony sense across tannins and let the underlying ripe fruit, herb and 91 Creek Valley). This 100% varietal wine from the nose of this bottling. The palate is also laden tobacco flavors emerge. It has a tight mouthfeel and an estate vineyard is herbaceous and earthy, aro- with a stone-like minerality, which proves more finish at this point. Best after 2023. —J.G. matic in peppercorn. Smooth, textured tannins compelling than the lingering fruit and herb flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 offer grip with grace as a richness of full-bodied —M.K. baked plum and cherry flavors take hold. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $86 Brice Station 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet abv: 14.9% Price: $50 88 Franc (Calaveras County). Meaty, leafy, Bianchi 2017 Merlot (Paso Robles). Tangy ­savory flavors meld with tasty raspberry and sour Lorenzi Estate 2017 The Contrarian Vineyard 89 and dark red-fruit aromas make for a pun- cherry notes in this medium- to full-bodied wine. It 91 Merlot (Temecula Valley). Roasted cherry, gent nose on this bottling. It’s more complex on the captures the authentic, wild and earthy character of dark slate and light hickory aromas make for an palate, where baked red cherry and dried earth fla- the grape variety and is well balanced for drinking inviting nose on this bottling by Don Lorenzi. vors meet with herbs, vanilla dust and a compelling now. —J.G. Thicker flavors of grilled fruit and vanilla spice arise acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 on the palate, where the tannins are sticky yet for- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 giving. —M.K. Ironstone 2017 Estate Grown Reserve Cabernet abv: 15.6% Price: $65 Mineral Wines 2016 Merlot (Calaveras 87 Franc (Sierra Foothills). This bold and full- 89 County). Strawberry aromas transition to bodied wine is deep in color and full of smoky, spicy more full, dark-cherry flavors in this well-balanced,

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 concentrated and plush-textured wine. It offers a is filled with minty, smoky, chocolaty flavors carried Writer’s Block 2017 Malbec (Lake County). mouthfilling presence and delicious fruit. —J.G. on an expansive texture. It shows the mellowness of 87 This full-bodied, well-balanced wine tastes abv: 14.4% Price: $28 a fully mature wine and some smoke effect from the fruity and fresh, even though it is firmly tannic. It Yosemite Rim Fire that year. —J.G. offers light black-pepper and wood smoke accents Sbragia 2017 Home Ranch Merlot (Dry Creek abv: 13% Price: $27 to add some complexity. —J.G. 89 Valley). Juicy, thick and dusty, with sub- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 stantial concentration, this wine is blended with Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2015 Right 5% Petite Sirah, which adds to the weight and 86 Bank Merlot (Oak Knoll District). This wine ­power. Plum, crushed rock and cocoa powder accent is austere and leathery, with a sizable grip of tan- PETIT VERDOT a core of intense ripeness and tannin. —V.B. nin. Made from almost entirely Merlot, it has 1% abv: 14.7% Price: $34 ­Cabernet Sauvignon and was given 22 months in Hearst Ranch 2017 Pancho Petit Verdot French oak. The fruit is elusive. —V.B. 93 (Paso Robles). Dark berry and cherry aro- Bargetto 2017 Reserve Merlot (Santa Cruz abv: 14.8% Price: $50 mas meet with campfire smoke and oak on the nose 88 Mountains). Baked earth, sharp cherry of this bottling. The palate proves very cohesive, and a hint of pine needle show on the nose of this Frey 2018 Organic Merlot (North Coast). blending the dark fruit with smoked meat flavors, all ­cleanly made bottling, which includes 25% Caber- 85 This grapey, smoky, peppery wine runs a wrapped in acidity and structural tannins that will net Sauvignon.­ The palate is full of dark red fruit, little wild, and has a good structure of acidity and endure. Drink now–2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. with more of that pine, redwood-like spice, and ris- tannins to support its earthy flavors. It’s hearty and abv: 14.8% Price: $45 ing tannins and acid coming into the finish. —M.K. rustic, but will get the job done at mealtime. No abv: 14.2% Price: $40 added sulfites. —J.G. MCV 2017 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). Very abv: 14.3% Price: $15 92 dark in the glass, this bottling begins with Le Vigne 2017 Appellation Series Merlot extracted yet balanced and tightly woven aromas 88 (Paso Robles). Blistered cherry and straw- Tehachapi 2017 Merlot (California). A smoky, of black currant and dark violet. It’s impressively berry aromas meet with pomegranate syrup and 84 roasted-nut overtone affects the flavors of dense on the palate, with firm tannins and intense light herbs on the nose of this bottling. Tarragon, this full-bodied wine, while a smooth texture and acidity, where flavors of cocoa and more currant dried thyme, oregano and make for a very full body give it a satisfying mouthfeel. —J.G. reign. Still young, so drink 2022–2032. Cellar herbal palate, playing against the refreshing red abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Selection­ . —M.K. fruits. —M.K. abv: 15.8% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 MALBEC Matchbook 2016 Estate Bottled Petit Verdot Le Vigne 2015 Vatani’s Majestic Merlot (Paso 89 (Dunnigan Hills). Ripe, rich and full bodied, 88 Robles). Baked cherry and blackberry jam Wood Family Vineyards 2017 Malbec (Liver- this wine is big in structure, quite tannic and con- meet with wood-smoke, cocoa and potting-soil 93 more Valley). Superconcentrated and abso- centrated, offering deep blueberry, blackberry and ­aromas on the nose of this bottling. The rich black- lutely brimming with ripe fruit, this full-bodied wine beef flavors and a mouthfilling texture. It should berry-jam flavors are cut by plenty of acidity and is impressive all the way through. A deep, dark color improve through 2023. —J.G. hints of oregano and light pepper. —M.K. leads to rich fruit and dark-chocolate flavors and abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 14.6% Price: $27 melted tannins that make the texture velvety. —J.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $32 Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Curtis Vineyard McClain Cellars 2017 Purpose Road Merlot 88 Petit Verdot (Santa Ynez Valley). Tangy 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Wild herbs, dark sour- Wilson Creek 2016 Matriarch Vineyard black-plum, violet and acai aromas show on the cherry and smoked wood aromas show on the nose 90 ­Malbec (Temecula Valley). Macerated nose of this single-vineyard expression of a grape of this bottling, which includes 25% Sangiovese. strawberries, grenadine and light red-licorice aro- not commonly found flying solo. There is a black- Dried berry flavors meet with struck stone elements mas are fresh on the nose of this bottling. It lands berry freshness to the palate, which finishes on on the palate. —M.K. on the palate with riper flavors of strawberry sor- ­vanilla-dust and purple-flower flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $49 bet and red cherry, which are enhanced by carda- abv: 14.9% Price: $30 mom and anise spices, making for a very drinkable Wilson Creek 2017 Molly’s Merlot Merlot experience. —M.K. Jeff Runquist 2017 R Damir Ranch Petit 88 (Temecula Valley). Clean and pleasant aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 86 ­Verdot (Stanislaus County). Pungent aro- mas of cherry, light herb and sandalwood kick off mas of charcoal and wood smoke are followed by the nose of this bottling. The palate combines dried Mineral Wines 2017 Malbec (Sierra Foot- toasty, woody flavors that wrap around a moderate strawberry, red-plum, cinnamon and potpourri- 89 hills). This is very ripe, almost like a dessert core of blackberry and black pepper. It’s an extreme spice flavors. —M.K. wine, but dry, offering tons of black-plum, dried style of wine, full bodied and tannic. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 cherry, black-fig and blackberry flavors on a broad, abv: 13.8% Price: $26 soothing, lightly tannic texture. It’s an unusual and Charles Krug 2016 Estate Merlot (Napa delicious wine. —J.G. 87 Valley).­ This is a thick, earthy and grippy abv: 14.7% Price: $30 SYRAH wine, robust in tannin, oak and ripe black fruit. Dark sage and mocha flavors add a touch of herb and Hearst Ranch 2017 Babicora Malbec (Paso Pence 2016 Sebastiano Syrah (Sta. Rita lasting intensity. —V.B. 87 Robles). Smashed blackberry aromas meet 96 Hills). For full review see page 4. Editors’ abv: 15% Price: $25 with grape seed and wet earth on the nose of this Choice. bottling, which still has lingering primary fermenta- abv: 13.5% Price: $56 Line 39 2017 Merlot (California). For full tion elements. The palate is more rich and resolved, 87 review see page 18. Best Buy. with black-currant paste and caramel-laced-pastry Joyce 2018 Tondre Grapefield Syrah (Santa abv: 14.5% Price: $11 flavors. —M.K. 95 Lucia Highlands). This is an exuberant and abv: 14.9% Price: $35 crunchy display of cool-climate Syrah from a vine- Brice Station 2013 Estate Grown Merlot yard planted in 1997, starting with aromas of bay 86 (Calaveras­ County). This full-bodied wine leaf, wild herb, peppercorns, coffee husks, raw lamb

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BUYINGGUIDE and underripe boysenberry on the nose. Crisp fruit ing into layers of fresh berry, all wrapped in squeaky and alive on the palate, where ripe berry and cherry flavors pop on the palate before the peppery spices tannins. —M.K. flavors meet with a granite-driven minerality. —M.K. and gamy meat flavors take hold.Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $46 abv: 13.19% Price: $38 —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $32 Le Casque 2017 Syrah (Sierra Foothills). This Iron Hub 2016 Syrah (Amador County). A fas- 92 nicely complex and boldly flavored wine 91 cinating and complex array of aromas and Lost Blues 2017 Walking Boss Syrah (Santa runs the gamut from bay leaf and oregano aromas to flavors gives this full-bodied wine plenty to savor. 95 Maria Valley). Aromas of roasted yet still tasty black-fruit flavors and keeps them fresh and Aromas of cigar box, cedar and cherry cola give way bloody beef, root-beer spice, black cherry, bacon fat appetizing with good acidity and moderate tannins to black cherry, sour cherry and a hint of molasses and maple swirl into a savory-yet-ripe spin on cool- in the structure. —J.G. on the palate. —J.G. climate Syrah in this bottling. The wine hits the pal- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 ate with loads of roasted black currant and blistered Luxardo cherries, as coffee and roasted game linger Lorenzi Estate 2017 Los Cojones Block Left Bend 2016 Camel Hill Vineyard Syrah in the background. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 92 ­Reserve Syrah (Temecula Valley). Crisp boy- 91 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Roasted dark red- abv: 15.7% Price: $52 senberry aromas kick off the nose of this block des- fruit, wet rock, tar and muddy soil aromas show ignate before more savory waves of smoke, broiled on the earthy nose of this bottling from a vineyard Prospect 772 2017 The Instigator Shake meat and charred black cherries come through. It’s near Los Gatos. The texture is taut on the sip, where 94 Ridge Vineyard Syrah (Sierra Foothills). This comforting style of Syrah on the palate, where rich purple-flower, roasted meat and blackberry flavors is a supersaturated Syrah, very concentrated, full roasted fruit flavors meet with warm baking spices, arise. —M.K. bodied but polished and balanced to a tee. Firm tan- and there’s just enough underlying acid to keep it abv: 14.6% Price: $40 nins and lively acidity bolster black-cherry, black- fresh. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. berry and spicy cocoa flavors that go deep and long. abv: 15.3% Price: $65 Montemar 2014 Zotovich Vineyard Syrah (Sta. It should mellow and evolve nicely through 2027. 91 Rita Hills). Baked cherry and berry aromas Cellar Selection. —J.G. Rincon Mountain 2017 Estate Syrah (Paso meet with light caramel on the nose of this bottling,­ abv: 15.8% Price: $42 92 Robles). Hefty aromas of blackberry, pur- which is a rather lush expression from a cool-­ ple flowers, cracked pepper and savory meats that climate site. It’s clean and rich on the palate, where MCV 2017 Syrah (Paso Robles). Clean lines aren’t too beefy show on the nose of this bottling, blackberry and licorice flavors align. —M.K. 93 of blackberry, roasted meat, wet stone and from grapes grown in Paso Robles but processed abv: 14.5% Price: $40 crumpled purple flowers show on the nose of this atop Rincon Mountain south of Santa Barbara. It bottling. It’s smooth and suave on the palate with lands on the palate, with hearty tannins and a thick ONX 2017 Noble Intrigue Bien Nacido Vineyard rich boysenberry and lavender touches, and then a mouthfeel, carrying black-currant, roasted meat 91 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Strong aromas stony grip kicks in, framing the meaty finish. —M.K. and light licorice flavors. —M.K. of coffee bean, roasted yet bloody meats and ripe abv: 15.5% Price: $45 abv: 15.3% Price: $58 blackberry jam are enhanced by bay leaf and rose- mary on the nose of this bottling. It’s ripe and rich ONX 2017 Fiery Nights Syrah (Templeton Gap Scar of the Sea 2017 Casa Vineyard Syrah on the palate, where caramelized black-cherry and 93 District). For full review see page 8. 92 (Santa Cruz Mountains). From a dry-farmed baked boysenberry flavors are wrapped in a vanilla, abv: 15.6% Price: $70 vineyard at a 2,100-foot elevation, this bottling maple and brown-sugar crust. —M.K. is tightly packaged and, with patience, offers vio- abv: 15.6% Price: $70 Sans Liege 2017 Groundwork Syrah (Santa let, boysenberry and charred beef on the nose. It’s 93 Barbara County). This label by Winemaker tightly woven on the plate, where flavors of purple Seabold Cellars 2016 Sycamore Flat Pebble Curt Schalchlin might one of the Central Coast’s flower, wild herb, dark berry and white pepper align 91 Gulch Syrah (Arroyo Seco). Dried blueberry best bang-for-the-buck bottlings on the market inside a dry, chalky texture. Drink 2023–2037. and boysenberry aromas meet with lamb crust today. The Syrah impresses right away on the nose, Cellar­ Selection. —M.K. and charcoal on the nose of this bottling. It’s thick with hints of nori wrap, soy, cracked pepper and abv: 13.3% Price: $46 on the palate, with rich flavors of blackberry jam, singed tobacco set against wild berry and dried thyme and peppery spices. —M.K. thyme. The palate’s sizzling acidity carries flavors of Stolpman 2018 Estate Grown Syrah (Ballard abv: 14.4% Price: $40 fresh berry, fennel frond and thyme-laced pepper. 92 Canyon). Clean aromas of boysenberry, wet Editors’ Choice. —M.K. stone and sifted ash show on the lively nose of this Vie Winery 2016 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah abv: 14.5% Price: $20 bottling. The palate is intensely grippy with earthy 91 (Santa Barbara County). Vanilla, roasted tension, combining freshly smashed berry flavors blackberry compote, smoked black plum and savory Sling & Stone 2018 Paraiso Vineyard Syrah with aromatic rosewater flavors and just a hint of bits of cracked pepper show on the classic nose of 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Black raspberry game. —M.K. this bottling. There is solid grip to the sip, which is sorbet, wet slate and some mint aromas kick off abv: 14.1% Price: $30 more tannic than just taut, with flavors of roasted this bottling, with more herbal and savory quali- beef in a black-raspberry sauce, dusted in more ties emerging as the wine sits open. The palate is Stolpman 2017 Hilltops Syrah (Ballard black pepper. —M.K. refreshing and taut in texture, offering snappy rasp- 92 Canyon).­ Blackberry and light oak smoke abv: 14.3% Price: $49 berry flavors and chaparral herbs set against boun- aromas meet with wet gravel and turned soil on the tiful acid, with a light vanilla finish. —M.K. nose of this bottling. There is a compelling tannic Aloria 2016 Estate Syrah (Calaveras ­County). abv: 14.51% Price: $32 tension to the sip, where savory meats, full black- 90 This indulgent, mouthfilling wine drenches berry and floral flavors converge atop lively acidity. the palate with generous black fruits, subtle bak- Derby 2016 Derby Vineyard Syrah (Paso —M.K. ing spices and a chocolate-covered-cherry richness 92 Robles).­ Smashed black raspberry, dried abv: 14.1% Price: $48 that’s delicious and lingering. —J.G. lavender and wood-ash aromas make for a zesty abv: 14.3% Price: $32 and fresh nose on this bottling, despite it being four Whitcraft 2018 My Friend Matts Vineyard years old. The floral aspect dominates the palate, 92 Syrah (Los Olivos District). Buoyant aromas Amador Cellars 2016 Syrah (Amador ­County). with rosemary blossoms and bay leaf flavors lead- of fresh cherries, crumpled violets and dark currants 90 Potent aromas of grilled beef and smoked make for a very floral nose on this bottling. It’s zippy cherries lead to flavors of black pepper and black

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 cherry in this oaky, full-bodied, firmly tannic wine the producer’s estate. Leathery texture speaks to its that has good depth and a lingering finish. —J.G. GRENACHE tannin integration and grip, which supports a wealth abv: 15% Price: $30 of strong strawberry and dark-cherry flavor. —V.B. Lost Blues 2017 High Horse Grenache (Santa abv: 14.2% Price: $37 Montemar 2014 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah 93 Maria Valley). Baked black cherries and 90 (Santa Barbara County). Dried boysen- hints of caramel and coffee make for a very rich, Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Grenache (Santa berry aromas meet with a touch of caramel, dried savory and delicious approach to Grenache in this 90 Ynez Valley). Concentrated aromas of meat and wet stone on the nose of this single-vine- bottling. There is solid tension to the sip, which maraschino cherry and hints of exotic wood spice yard expression from a coveted vineyard near Los is ripe yet still fresh, showing baked red plum and make for a rich entry into this bottling. The palate ­Alamos. The wine’s age is apparent on the palate, iron-like minerality. —M.K. is lively, crisp and acid-driven yet also quite ripe, where meaty leather, dried berry-jam and smoke abv: 15.1% Price: $52 offering lush red fruit and strong cinnamon-like ­flavors dominate. —M.K. spices. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 Stephen Ross 2017 Bee Sweet Vineyard abv: 14.7% Price: $39 93 ­Grenache (Edna Valley). Light in the glass, Wilson Creek 2017 Cammi Ridge Vineyard this is a delicious wine, starting with aromas of Montemar 2014 Grenache (Santa Barbara 90 Syrah (Temecula Valley). Though a bit light blistered strawberry, creamy rose petals and a touch 89 County). Though a bit older than the usual in the glass for Syrah, this is a pleasant and com- of hibiscus. There’s a compelling snap to the sip, Grenache release, this bottling shows resilient life, plex bottling, starting with aromas of dark straw- where Montmorency cherry and strawberry flavors with aromas of rosewater, cherry, tar and ginger- berry, roasted fennel and struck stone. The palate are wrapped in light leather and game, finishing on bread spice. There is a density to the palate, where combines roasted red fruit with hints of game and a a fruit-punch kick. —M.K. berry and purple-flower flavors ride a soft structure. touch of vanilla on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price:­ $42 —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 14.6% Price: $32 Seabold Cellars 2017 Brosseau Hillsides Montemar 2014 Thompson Vineyard Syrah 92 Grenache­ (Chalone). This is an intriguingly 89 (Santa Barbara County). Zesty aromas of structural style of Grenache, starting with aromas MOURVÈDRE cranberry and slight purple fruits meet with purple of hibiscus, pomegranate, dried rose petals, lano- flowers and wet soil on the shy nose of this bottling. lin and wet stone. It’s light and floral on the pal- Penville 2017 True West Enz Vineyard The palate is lighter in expression, offering white- ate, with gently pressed pomegranate and raspberry 93 Mourvèdre (Lime Kiln Valley). From vines pepper spices alongside crisp black-raspberry flavors, framed by a crushed gravel minerality. The planted in 1922, this bottling conveys the regal ­flavors. —M.K. tannins and light frame ensure long life, so drink ­elegance and time-worn elements that can come abv: 14.5% Price: $40 now through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. from deep roots and a century-old sense of place. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Aromas of dried and fresh berries meet with earthy Writer’s Block 2017 Syrah (Lake County). hints of damp wood on the nose, while the palate 89 This wine is seriously concentrated, packed Alara 2017 Grenache (San Benito County). For delivers smashed berry, cinnamon spice and san- with blackberries and black cherries and accented 91 full review see page 11. dalwood tones, set against sandy tannins. Editors’ with black pepper and anise. Firm tannins give abv: 15.4% Price: $45 Choice. —M.K. backbone to the texture and could use more time to abv: 13.75% Price: $38 resolve before optimum drinking. Best after 2023. Sans Liege 2017 Groundwork Grenache (Central —J.G. 91 Coast). Very light in the glass, this highly Sculpterra 2017 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). abv: 13.8% Price: $18 quaffable and very affordable bottling offers aro- 92 Intense and dark aromas of leather, black- mas of cranberry and cherry on the nose alongside berry and plum are both savory and fresh on the Montemar 2014 McGinley Vineyard Syrah scents of cinnamon and loamy soil. It’s evenly pre- nose of this bottling. Crushed boysenberry and wild 88 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Reduced sented on the palate, with cranberry, orange-rind cherry flavors are framed by earthy mushroomy blackberry-coulis aromas meet with dried violet and brown-spice flavors that prove refreshing yet touches and savory dried beef elements. The acid and beef jerky on the nose of this bottling from a exotically complex. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. lingers long. —M.K. warmer spot. Stewed berry flavors and dark hibis- abv: 14.4% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $38 cus show on the sip, where a lavender kick extends into the finish. —M.K. Stolpman 2018 Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Zanoli 2017 Row X Glenrose Vineyard abv: 14.6% Price: $40 91 Crunchy red currant, carnations, rose petals 90 Mourvèdre (Adelaida District). Fresh ­aromas and wet slate hint at some carbonic fermentation of black raspberry and rocky tones of wet gravel show Peirano 2016 The Heritage Collection Syrah­ on the nose of this bottling. The palate falls in line on the nose of this bottling. There is a pleasing boy- 88 (Lodi). This yummy chocolatey wine blends as well, with refreshing red-fruit and red-rose-petal senberry snap to the sip, which also carries that blackberry-jam and cocoa flavors on a big but flavors that are crisp and zippy. —M.K. rocky mineral aspect into the finish. —M.K. smooth texture for a mouthcoating effect. It’s full abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 12.5% Price: $52 bodied but not very tannic, so it’s easy to sip. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $14 V. Sattui 2016 Grenache (Napa Valley). Sans Liege 2017 Groundwork Santa ­Barbara 91 ­Blended with small amounts of Syrah, 89 Highlands Vineyard Mourvèdre (Santa Tehachapi 2017 Syrah (California). The Mourvèdre, Alicante and Petite Sirah, this is a Barbara­ County). Earthy aromas of wild cherry, pot- 87 ­cedary pencil-shaving aromas of this big thick, rich and smoothly integrated wine that packs ting soil, rose petals, cinnamon and vanilla make brooding wine lead to deep flavors of dark chocolate, a serious punch. Dense dark cherry and strawberry for a pleasant entry to the nose of this bottling. The charred oak and black pepper. There is a baking-spice­ dance around a savory core of tobacco, clove and palate combines plum, cranberry and pomegranate element, also, in the oaky flavors of this full-bodied garrigue. —V.B. into a fresh while tangy display. —M.K. and firmly tannic wine. —J.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 15.5% Price: $38 Ampelos 2016 Ampelos Vineyard Grenache Seven Oxen 2016 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). Bright, high-toned and 88 Tightly wound aromas of dark berry, sour ­floral, this is a pretty, balanced and earthy wine from leather and black plum show on the nose of this

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BUYINGGUIDE bottling, which includes 10% Grenache. There is a sense of good balance and drinkability despite tight, on the wild, rustic side of the spectrum and worth a brightness to the palate as well as grippy tannins, fine-grained tannins. Best through 2024.Cellar­ try. No added sulfites. —J.G. which carry boysenberry and dried lavender flavors. Selection­ . —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $44 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 Le Vigne 2017 Di Ranchita Vista Petite Sirah Peirano 2017 The Heritage Collection Petite 88 (Paso Robles). Tangy black-plum skin, vio- 91 Sirah (Lodi). For full review see page 17. Best let, seared wood and grape-soda aromas greet the CARIGNAN Buy. nose in this bottling. There is a decent amount of abv: 14.8% Price: $14 tannic grip on the sip, where flavors of charred wood Saint K 2018 Gravesend Carignan (Santa Bar- and cassis arise and prove a touch heavy. —M.K. 91 bara County). Toasted oak aromas meet with Theopolis 2017 Estate Grown Petite Sirah abv: 15% Price: $46 crushed cranberry and fresh raspberry on the some- 91 (Yorkville Highlands). Intense black-pepper, what reserved nose of this bottling. The mouthfeel singed rosemary and charred beef flavors give this Hearst Ranch 2017 The Pergola Petite Sirah is pleasantly creamy, with flavors of roasted plum full-bodied wine quite an impact, even without 87 (Paso Robles). This is a very rich and and baking spice that lead into a lingering, vanilla- the very firm fine-grained tannins. Adding them extracted style of Petite Sirah, starting with aro- kissed finish. —M.K. in, this wine is dramatic, impressive, mouthfilling mas of black-plum paste, chocolate syrup and slight abv: 13.7% Price: $35 but needs aging to grow into itself. Best after 2024. prune. The prune aspect meets with raisin, fig and —J.G. dark chocolate on the palate. —M.K. Bold 2018 Old Vines Carignan (Redwood abv: 13.9% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 Valley).­ This old-vine expression begins with aromas of crushed berries and wet stone on Akash 2017 Petite Sirah (Temecula Valley). the nose. The lightly bodied palate is snappy and 90 Dried soil, forest undergrowth, crumpled TANNAT fresh, with tart berry flavors, making for an easy- purple-flower and blistered red-currant aromas drinking table wine. —M.K. make for a compelling entry to the nose of this bot- Le Vigne 2016 Di Domenico Riservato Tannat abv: 13.6% Price: $25 tling. The palate is complex and interesting with a 91 (Paso Robles). Dark plum and cocoa aromas combination of dark red fruit, earthy thyme, dried converge for a sultry nose on this reserve bottling of Tanner 2017 Estate Grown Carignane (Sierra flowers and just enough tannic framing. —M.K. the still uncommon Tannat grape. The palate is very 88 Foothills). Lively cranberry and raspberry abv: 14.4% Price: $52 well woven, combining baked mulberry, more plum flavors brighten this full-bodied and well-struc- and chocolate into a smooth finish. —M.K. tured wine. It has a crisp, tangy feel and moderate Écluse 2017 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Very abv: 16.2% Price: $59 tannins. —J.G. 90 dense aromas of black currant, blackberry, abv: 13.1% Price: $35 toasty oak, cola and lavender show on the nose of Le Vigne 2017 Di Domenico Tannat (Paso this bottling. The palate is thick with cassis, cola, 89 Robles). Black-cherry, wet stone and savory cracked pepper and more oak-smoke flavors. —M.K. charred beef aromas show on the nose of this dark PETITE SIRAH abv: 15.5% Price: $42 bottling. There’s a bright line of ripe flavors of baked boysenberry and black plum that are cut by pencil Iron Hub 2016 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foothills). Hovey 2016 Petite Sirah (Calaveras County). shavings on the palate. —M.K. 93 Concentrated and saturated with dark fruit 90 This is a full-bodied and nicely focused ver- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 flavors, this full-bodied wine shows bold fruit and sion of the varietal, firmly tannic and inky in color. spice characters from the first whiff of black pepper Concentrated black-pepper and crushed blueberry MCV 2017 Tannat (Paso Robles). Dark to the lingering finish of blackberry and anise. A big flavors give a lot of richness on the palate, and the 88 cherry and berry flavors meet with crushed structure of firm tannins and ripe alcohol supports finish lingers nicely. Best after 2023. —J.G. stone on the nose of this bottling of an increasingly deep berry and black-plum notes that absolutely abv: 15% Price: $34 popular grape variety. Polished though still big tan- flood the palate. Best through 2026. —J.G. nins present tangy black-plum, raisin and vanilla abv: 14.8% Price: $34 MCV 2017 Gemeny Vineyard Petite Sirah flavors on the palate. —M.K. 89 (Paso Robles). Extracted black-currant aro- abv: 15.8% Price: $45 ONX 2017 Black Orchid Petite Sirah (Temple- mas meet with asphalt and cracked white pepper 93 ton Gap District). For full review see page 8. on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tarry and abv: 14.9% Price: $54 a bit reductive at first, though black-currant and TEMPRANILLO earthy herb flavors arise with patience. —M.K. MCV 2017 Rosewynn Vineyard Petite Sirah abv: 14.9% Price: $52 Yorba 2012 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tempra- 92 (Paso Robles). Fresh aromas of blackberry, 91 nillo (Amador County). Broad and rich, this black currant and wild mint blend ample fruitiness Mineral Wines 2016 Cherokee Creek Vineyard full-bodied wine packs in plenty of flavor without with earth herbs on the nose of this single-vineyard 89 Petite Sirah (Calaveras County). This deep- being overly fruity or jammy. It offers spicy, cedary expression by Matt Villard. Plenty of acid is appar- colored, brooding wine offers bold blackberry aro- aromas, good black-cherry and tobacco flavors and ent on the sip, where flavors of smashedblackberry ­ mas and flavors, a velvety texture and firm tannins. a plush texture coated with fine-grained tannins. meet with licorice, dried thyme and pinches of It’s big and mouthfilling, full bodied, quietly flavor- —J.G. ­pepper spice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ful, not noticeably oaky and not extreme in general. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.6% Price: $52 —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $36 Peirano 2017 The Heritage Collection Tem- Tanner 2016 Estate Grown Reserve Petite 90 pranillo (Lodi). For full review see page 17. 92 ­Sirah (Sierra Foothills). Complex, spicy aro- Frey 2016 Biodynamic Petite Sirah (Men- Best Buy. mas give a great first impression of this dark-colored 88 docino). This full-bodied and tightly struc- abv: 13.8% Price: $14 and medium- to full-bodied wine before deep, con- tured wine shows lots of iron, charcoal and black- centrated blackberry and cranberry flavors bring on pepper flavors shaded by grilled herb accents. It’s McClain Cellars 2017 Life Saver Tempranillo the fruit in full force. The mouthfeel is a bit leaner, 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). Deep and dark aromas less full than many comparable wines, giving it of blackberry pair with rich milk chocolate on the

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 nose of this bottling. It hits the palate with impact, the sip, where dark, dried fruits ride tense tannins Robert Biale 2017 Monte Rosso Vineyard with chalky tannins framing the berry-paste and and solid acidity into an spice-kissed finish. —M.K. 93 Zinfandel (Moon Mountain District Sonoma violet flavors. The acid cuts into the rich and nearly abv: 13.5% Price: $36 County). From the great mountain site, this red is sweet flavors. —M.K. hearty in aspects of game, black olive, blackberry abv: 15.3% Price: $65 Le Vigne 2017 Di Acquarello Sangiovese and cherry. Soft, supple tannins provide a foun- 89 (Paso Robles). Fresh strawberry aromas dation of weight and breadth, with teases of dried Mineral Wines 2016 Tempranillo (Calaveras meet with a reductive tarry tone on the nose of this herb and black licorice melding with lasting acidity. 89 County). Topped with toasted oak aromas, bottling. Sandy tannins frame the sip, which offers —V.B. this full-bodied and well-balanced wine tastes strawberry, cranberry, hibiscus and more earthy tar abv: 14.3% Price: $70 focused, nicely fruity and generously accented flavors. —M.K. by wood smoke and baking spices. It has a lively, abv: 15.6% Price: $39 Robert Biale 2017 Old Kraft Vineyard slightly gripping texture that’s appetizing. —J.G. 93 ­Zinfandel (St. Helena). Floral rose and lav- abv: 14.7% Price: $36 Alara 2017 Sangiovese (San Benito ­County). ender greet the nose of this wine, made from a site 88 Aromas of ripe fat berries meet with first planted in the 1890s. Petite Sirah is planted Charles B. Mitchell 2016 Reserve Tempranillo crushed stone and a bit of smoke on the nose of this within the same old block. Leathery, meaty texture 88 (Fair Play). This wine is affable, enjoyable, bottling. There is decent tension to the sip, where and grippy tannin give it a towering presence of well balanced and well polished, making it easy a rocky minerality frames the ample fruit and oaky power and intensity within layers of black fruit, cola to sip while also offering good structure and a big flavors dominate the finish. —M.K. and vanilla. —V.B. mouthfeel. Velvety tannins build on the palate and abv: 14.8% Price: $41 abv: 14.6% Price: $55 help shape a tangy finish. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Bella Vista 2016 Sangiovese (Temecula Andis 2017 Old Vine Original Grandpere Vine- 88 Valley). Dried cherry and hickory-smoke 92 yard Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). Richness Hearst Ranch 2017 Chileno Tempranillo aromas kick off the nose of this bottling. There is a and ripeness show off great fruit flavors in this full- 88 (Paso Robles). Strong aromas of cola and freshness to the palate, where lively strawberry fla- bodied but fresh and vibrant wine from an historic stewed black cherry meet with coffee, caramel and vors meet with licorice and oak, as tannins rise into vineyard. Moderate tannins frame the exuberant leather on the nose of this bottling. There is a strong the finish. —M.K. raspberry and blackberry flavors nicely and blend roasted cherry and berry sense to the palate, where abv: 14.7% Price: $44 with good acidity for very good balance. —J.G. leathery tannins carry cocoa and caramel flavors abv: 15.5% Price: $40 into the finish. —M.K. Pope Valley Winery 2016 Sangiovese (Napa abv: 13.9% Price: $35 88 Valley). This wine is earthy in cranberry Carol Shelton 2016 Peaceland Vineyard and candied fruit, with soft wraparound tannins 92 ­Zinfandel (Fountaingrove District). Blended Frey 2018 Biodynamic Tempranillo (Mendo­ that support without distraction. High toned and with Petite Sirah and Carignan, this hearty red is 87 cino). Bright, fresh and fairly concentrated approachable, it makes for a food-friendly experi- sanguine and structured, with bright acidity that black-fruit flavors fill this medium-bodied wine ence and easily enjoyable quaff on its own. —V.B. lifts the dense meaty fruit. Plum, dark chocolate and for a robust impact on the palate without being too abv: 14.4% Price: $36 bacon highlight the dense concentration of richness heavy or tannic. No added sulfites. —J.G. that is balanced in oak. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $17 McClain Cellars 2017 Timeless Sangiovese abv: 14.8% Price: $35 86 (Santa Ynez Valley). Very tarry aromas dominate the dark-fruit touches on the nose of this Harney Lane 2017 Scottsdale Vineyard SANGIOVESE bottling. A crushed asphalt element arises on the 92 Zinfandel­ (Lodi). Opulent, concentrated sip, which trends more toward sweet blackberry and layered, this full-bodied and velvet-textured Seghesio 2016 Venom Sangiovese (Alexan- paste. —M.K. wine is packed with ripe fruit flavors and subtle 92 der Valley). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.66% Price: $54 oak accents, while maintaining good balance and abv: 14.9% Price: $50 drinkability. Intense black-cherry, blackberry and black-fig flavors swell on the palate and linger on Indigené 2016 Riserva Sangiovese (Napa ZINFANDEL the finish. —J.G. 91 Valley).­ Ripe black cherries, wet river stones abv: 15.4% Price: $40 and dried purple flowers show on the nose of this Karine 2017 Three Daughters Zinfandel bottling of an Italian variety not too often found in 93 (Calaveras­ County). This huge but polished Jeff Cohn 2017 Rinaldi Zinfandel (Fiddle- Napa these days. A hearty mouthfeel is rich yet very wine from the Sierra Foothills is concentrated and 92 town). Ripe delicious berry flavors mingle dry, carrying flavors of ripe blackberry jam, dried layered, as moderate tannins and good acidity lift with earthy, peppery notes in this full-bodied and mint and a rocky minerality. —M.K. powerful blackberry and black-currant flavors. The complex wine. Moderate tannins beef up the texture abv: 14.6% Price: $50 tannins are fine grained, adding a velvety touch for great balance and let a classic briary expression to the mouthfeel, and propelling wonderful black come through. —J.G. Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Stolpman Vine- fig and dark cherry through a long finish.Editors’ abv: 15.4% Price: $45 91 yard Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Valley). Candied Choice. —J.G. raspberry and cranberry aromas meet with dried abv: 15.7% Price: $35 Newsome-Harlow 2017 Big John Vineyard hibiscus, purple flowers and a touch of baked pas- 92 Zinfandel (Calaveras County). Vivid and try on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. Newsome-Harlow 2017 Shake Ridge Ranch nicely structured, this full-bodied wine pours out Baked boysenberry and dark-red-flower flavors 93 Zinfandel (Amador County). This full-­ freshly crushed blackberry and cherry aromas show on the fresh grippy palate. —M.K. bodied and well-built wine shows the classic briary backed by palate-coating blackberry and baking- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 aromas followed by meaty berry-like flavors that are spice flavors. It’s generous and rich in style, and has both fruity and savory in character. It’s complex and a good nip of tannin in the texture. —J.G. Palmina 2017 Sogno del Fiore Sangiovese distinctive, as hints of black pepper and dried herbs abv: 14.9% Price: $38 90 (Los Olivos District). Stewed cherry-juice join long-lasting blackberry and raspberry notes. aromas meet with hints of oak and herbs on the Editors’ Choice. —J.G. Newsome-Harlow 2017 Roland Rosario Vine- nose of this bottling. There is a compelling snap to abv: 14.9% Price: $38 92 yard Elev. 1147 Zinfandel (Calaveras County).

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BUYINGGUIDE

Vibrant, fruity and well balanced, this medium- to entices the palate with ease, developing increasing blackberry flavors that ride a lightly tannic, mouth- full-bodied wine is packed with red-cherry and complexity as it goes. —V.B. gripping texture. —J.G. raspberry flavors on a nicely firm texture of light abv: 15.6% Price: $48 abv: 15% Price: $38 tannins and fruit acidity. It seems to get better from sip to sip to sip. —J.G. Acre 2017 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). For full Newsome-Harlow 2017 The Donner Party abv: 14.9% Price: $38 90 review see page 13. 90 Zinfandel (Calaveras County). Big and abv: 14.9% Price: $29 bright fruit flavors fill up this full-bodied and well- Robert Biale 2017 Valsecchi Vineyard Zinfan- balanced wine, giving it great freshness and appeal. 92 del (Carneros). Soft and floral, this cooler Artezin 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Mendocino Raspberry, red-cherry and black-cherry notes meld climate red is juicy in red cherry and strawberry, 90 County). Salt and pepper spiciness meets with mild oak spices. —J.G. with an approachability to its vivid, expressive tempting blackberry and black-plum flavors in this abv: NA Price: $38 fruit. Lingering in baking spice, its concentration is full-bodied, rich and mouthfilling wine. It’s well appealing and broadly generous, with understated balanced for drinking now, as light tannins and good Peirano 2016 The Heritage Collection Old power and undeniable likability. —V.B. acidity give just a bit of grip in the texture. Editors’ 90 Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see abv: 14.8% Price: $58 Choice. —J.G. page 17. Best Buy. abv: 14.8% Price: $16 abv: 14.8% Price: $14 Croix 2017 Croix Estate Vineyard 1904 Old Vine 91 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Blended Bold 2018 Rorick Heritage Zinfandel (Cala- Robert Biale 2017 Aldo’s Vineyard Estate with 10% Alicante Bouchet, the sweet, dusty nose 90 veras County). Quite light in the glass, this 90 Grown Zinfandel (Oak Knoll District). Berry of this red is generously juicy, with supple dried wine begins with cranberry, dried herb and wild bramble, tar and oak mark a soft, supple and power- fruit that highlights this estate wine—the vines first chaparral aromas. It’s clean and light on the palate, ful palate of approachable intensity in this power- planted in 1904 (at what was once known as the with brisk red-fruit, rose-petal and earthy forest fully built wine from the winery’s own historic site, Robert Rue Vineyard). Made in a full-bodied, gener- flavors. —M.K. first planted in 1937. Round supple tannins ride a ous style, it offers structure and lush layers of plum, abv: 13.8% Price: $25 lengthy palate building to a finish of wild vanilla dark cherry and a lasting twist of nutmeg. —V.B. and cola. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $50 Crū 2017 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Baked abv: 14.8% Price: $85 90 strawberry, smoke, turned earth and a Dutton-Goldfield 2017 Morelli Lane Vineyard touch of hibiscus make for an inviting entry to the Seghesio 2018 Zinfandel (Sonoma ­County). 91 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This is a nose of this bottling. The palate begins with a soft 90 For full review see page 16. Editors’ Choice. pretty, inviting wine that is aromatically effusive in texture, opening toward spice, earth and snappy abv: 14.8% Price: $26 gorgeous cherry, berry and raisin-rum cake. Juicy, red-fruit flavors. —M.K. expansive and likable, it has soft supple tannins abv: 13.9% Price: $35 Seghesio 2017 Home Ranch Estate Zinfandel that provide support without interruption, finish- 90 (Alexander Valley). This full-bodied red is ing in a savory complement of meat, nutmeg and Decoy 2017 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). densely concentrated in soy, leather and black pep- black pepper. —V.B. 90 This well-made wine has cherry-berry per—savory elements that highlight and comple- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 fruitiness and a likably soft smooth texture, with a ment the rich red and black cherry. Firm, supple rounded approachability to its richness and moder- tannins help support the weight and intensity, get- Kendall-Jackson 2017 Zinfandel (California). ate weight. Blended with 17% Petite Sirah, it has ting along well with the toasted oak. —V.B. 91 This wine is good and rich while staying bal- understated power and integrated oak, finishing in abv: 15.3% Price: $60 anced. It offers ripe plum and blackberry aromas, a swirl of vanilla. —V.B. abundant fruit flavors and subtle oak spices. It will abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Timark 2017 Michael Moon Old Vine Teldeschi be hard to beat when a bold, firm wine is called for. 90 Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Spicy —J.G. Hierogram 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). berry, leather, baking spice and pepper ride along abv: 14.5% Price: $17 90 Concentrated and complex, this full-bodied full-bodied power and soft tannin weight in this old- wine overflows with ripe berries, black-pepper and vine wine, dusty on the palate and richly ripe. —V.B. Oblivion 2017 Zinfandel (Central Coast). beef aromas that continue in the generous flavors. A abv: 14.9% Price: $38 91 Caramelized berries meet with maple and big broad mouthfeel, full body and mild tannins all fresh rose petals on the dynamic nose of this bot- add to an impression of richness. —J.G. Belledor 2017 Primitivo (Amador County). tling. There is a compelling intensity on the palate, abv: 15% Price: $18 89 This wine offers a big, firm structure and where candied boysenberry and floral violet tones plenty of potent raspberry and blackberry flavors to stay dry and pleasant thanks to the structure and Howell Mountain Vineyards 2016 ­Beatty fill it. Moderate tannins and full body support gen- acidity. —M.K. 90 Ranch Zinfandel (Howell Mountain). erous fruitiness and maintain good balance. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Structured tart red cherry and orange peel accent abv: 15% Price: $26 a ­robust grip of tannin and weighty power in this Seghesio 2017 Cortina Zinfandel (Dry Creek bold wine, made in small amounts from the moun- Belledor 2017 Zinfandel (Amador County). 91 Valley). For full review see page 13. tain site. Black pepper, licorice and cola contribute 89 Full body and a moderately tannic texture abv: 15.5% Price: $40 spicy seasoning against the bigger notions of fruit go well with the ripe black-cherry and blackberry and texture. —V.B. flavors of this bold and appetizing wine. —J.G. Seghesio 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $24 91 County). For full review see page 13. abv: 15.6% Price: $40 Newsome-Harlow 2017 Herbert Vineyard Klinker Brick 2016 Old Ghost Old Vine 90 Zinfandel (El Dorado County). Vibrantly 89 Zinfandel­ (Lodi). Great concentration, pure Seghesio 2017 Pagani Zinfandel (Sonoma fruity and fresh, this full-bodied, appetizing wine fruit flavors and a nice sense of focus make this full- 91 Valley).­ From the tremendously beautiful, does not feel as big as the ripe alcohol level sug- bodied wine hard to ignore. Very ripe plums and rai- old-vine site in the heart of the appellation, this gests. It is full of crisp, just-ripe raspberry and sins are accented by smoky, peppery impressions, hearty red is juicy in brooding black fruit and savory and the texture is broad and rich. —J.G. black pepper, leather and oak. Dense and supple, it abv: 15.9% Price: $37

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 The Winery SF 2015 Zinfandel (North Coast). Andis 2017 Old Vine Friedlander Block Zinfan- Valravn 2017 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 89 This wine is good and dry, showing honest 87 del (Sierra Foothills). Very ripe, dried-fruit 86 This wine is thick and fruity, with a mix fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a sense of con- flavors of prune and raisin give this wine plenty of of blackberry, cherry and cola on the palate that centration. Blackberry and plum flavors expand on punch to go with its full body. —J.G. veers ripely into prune and baked plum. A layering the palate, filling out the full frame. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $30 of black pepper rounds out the brawny full-bodied abv: 14.5% Price: $27 experience. —V.B. Newsome-Harlow 2017 Zinfandel (Sierra abv: 14.8% Price: $20 Vine Cliff 2017 Bobcat Zinfandel (Oakville). 87 Foothills). Plush aromas of strawberry jam 89 This inviting red is rich and spicy in ­vanilla, and baking spices lead to almost-sweet fruit flavors ZinPhomaniac 2017 Old Vines Zinfandel cinnamon and nutmeg, with soft robustly ripe black and a maple accent on the palate. The texture is soft 86 (Lodi). This wine offers a broad texture and fruit. The density and intensity is layered in dark and generous, showing very little tannin. —J.G. rich, almost sweet raspberry and maple flavors that chocolate and mocha, lingering in toasted oak. abv: 14.7% Price: $24 fill the mouth. It feels soft but full bodied, and oozes a —V.B. strawberry-jam note that lingers on the finish. —J.G. abv: 16.2% Price: $70 V. Sattui 2016 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).­ abv: 14.5% Price: $18 87 This is a thick, herbal and spicy wine, Akash 2017 Zinfandel (Temecula Valley). ­blended with a small amount of Petite Sirah. Dense Precision Wine 2018 Zinfandel (Alexander 88 Leather, hickory smoke, dried berry and and richly packed in ripe plum, cherry and root beer, 85 Valley). This is a thick, viscous and grip- herb show on the nose of this bottling. There are it offers viscosity and intensity, with hints of baking pingly ripe wine, sweet in vanilla and berry flavor, wild anise and baked berry flavors on the palate, spice and vanilla. —V.B. with touches of charred oak and smoked meat. which is soft in texture. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $32 —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $52 abv: 17% Price: $35 Wildeye 2017 Zinfandel (Lime Kiln Valley). Brutocao 2016 Estate Bottled Contento 87 Sour black-plum, lanolin and herbal spice Wilson Creek 2018 Bourbon Barrel Aged 88 Primitivo (Mendocino). This is a full-bod- aromas show on the nose of this bottling from a 85 Zinfandel (California). Deep fruity aromas ied, rustic and flavorful wine that smells earthy and rarely used appellation in San Benito County. The of baked berries and damp mint make for a very tastes ripe, almost raisiny. It has good structure, palate is full and thick, with baked mulberry, wild ­extracted nose on this Bourbon-barrel-aged wine. texture and balance. —J.G. berry and gingerbread flavors proving very ripe and It’s quite sweet and treacly on the palate, where abv: 13.5% Price: $28 yet a touch sour. —M.K. berry-candy and brown-sugar flavors lead to a abv: 15% Price: $25 ­caramel-sauce finish. —M.K. Cosentino 2018 Cigar Old Vine Zinfandel abv: 16.3% Price: $55 88 (Lodi). This big concentrated wine offers Gracianna 2016 Bacigalupi Vineyard delicious ripe fruit and spice flavors, plenty of new 86 ­Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Black- Murphy-Goode 2015 Liar’s Dice Zinfandel oak accents and smoky peppery nuances. It is soft olive tapenade, garrigue and sanguine red fruit 84 (Sonoma County). This wine opens in in terms of acidity, and low in tannins, for a cushy highlight a sweet, fleshy and lush palate of powerful ­inviting aromas of currant, blackberry and orange— texture. —J.G. ripeness in this vineyard-designate wine. —V.B. a fruitiness that veers flat on the midpalate, over- abv: 15.5% Price: $20 abv: 15.8% Price: $46 taken by oak. Blended with 7% Petite Sirah, the wine is overtly ripe and brawny in style. —V.B. David 2016 Teldeschi Ancient Vine Lapis Luna 2018 Zinfandel (North Coast). abv: 15.5% Price: $21 88 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Leathery and 86 This full-bodied wine offers very fresh reduced, this big fruit-driven wine is thick and vis- crushed berry aromas and plenty of straightforward Peirano 2015 The Immortal Zin Old Vine Zin- cous on the palate, with strong powerful layers of grapey plummy flavors. It tastes unusually generous 83 fandel (Lodi). Giving up a swampy, earthy fig, cherry and blackberry. The tannins are soft and and vivid. —J.G. aroma at first, this full-bodied wine settles in to well integrated and the finish dipped in dark choco- abv: 14.3% Price: $13 saturated prune and raisin flavors and a big but soft late and baking spice. —V.B. texture braced by alcohol. Its not at all tannic or abv: 15.5% Price: $32 Napa Cellars 2016 Zinfandel (Napa Valley).­ tangy. —J.G. 86 With 14% Petite Sirah, this hearty red is abv: 14.8% Price: $14 Mineral Wines 2016 Zinfandel (Calaveras smooth, simple and rounded in approach, with 88 County). Ultrasmooth and mouthfilling, r­obust flavors of baked cherry and blackberry. Viaggio 2016 Wicked Finger Ancient Vine this full-bodied wine boasts ripe plummy jammy Dashes of baking spice give it additional richness 83 Zinfandel (Lodi). This is a big wine, hot in aromas and flavors, a rather soft mouthfeel and and contrast. —V.B. aroma, full bodied in flavor and quite alcoholic. It relaxed tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $26 offers aromas of wood smoke and Bourbon, and a abv: 14.9% Price: $29 flavor like sweet . —J.G. Pezzi King 2017 The Jester Zinfandel (Dry abv: 15.4% Price: $26 Paskett 2017 Cherryhouse Vineyard Zinfandel­ 86 Creek Valley). Brawny blackberry-syrup, 88 (Lodi). Deep ripe fruit flavors and an brown-sugar and root-beer flavors highlight the expansive,­ mouthfilling texture make this full-bodied big generous mouthfeel of velvety approachability, RED BLENDS wine an easy choice. It’s rich and chocolaty. —J.G. made to appeal in a wide style. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 15.2% Price: $30 Clos du Val 2016 Three Graces (Napa Valley). 95 For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. Pezzi King 2016 Row 26 Reserve Zinfandel Pezzi King 2016 Elevation 1040 Zinfandel abv: 14.2% Price: $175 88 (Dry Creek Valley). This wine has an entry of 86 (Dry Creek Valley). Syrupy plum accents a baked strawberry and brown sugar that presents as full-bodied power of grip and oak in this robustly Cakebread 2016 Dancing Bear Ranch (How- bold, rich and ripely sweet in this full-bodied wine. ripe estate wine, additionally layered in opulent 94 ell Mountain). From a high-elevation hill- A dash of white pepper helps to even out the bolder cola and brown sugar. —V.B. side site, this blends 84% Cabernet Sauvignon aspects of big personality. —V.B. abv: 15.6% Price: $34 with 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Merlot. Brawny, abv: 16.2% Price: $65 ­savory and supple in crisp red fruit, it is well inte-

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BUYINGGUIDE grated and focused, with a freshness to the midpal- Grenache, 39% Syrah and 22% Mondeuse. That oak influence. It’s a serious wine that will improve ate and peppery spice on the long finish. —V.B. ­hibiscus and sumac freshness continues on the sip, through at least 2024. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $165 where rosewater and lavender flavors prove floral abv: 14.8% Price: $36 and zesty. —M.K. Chimney Rock 2017 Elevage Estate Grown abv: 14.3% Price: $39 Prospect 772 2017 The Brat Grenache- 94 (Stags Leap District). For full review see 92 Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Aromas of black page 6. Lost Blues 2017 Good Fences Grenache-Syrah peppercorns and rich deep fruit flavors light up abv: 14.5% Price: $125 93 (California). This cofermented blend of 64% this full-bodied but polished and well-balanced Grenache and 36% Syrah begins with rich aromas wine. ­Vibrant raspberry and ripe black cherry are ONX 2017 Brash (Templeton Gap District). of black cherry, smoky oak, black pepper, bay leaf wrapped in fine-grained tannins for a mouthfilling 94 For full review see page 6. and bacon. The bacon-fat flavor kicks off the palate effect. Best through 2024. —J.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $48 as well, where roasted berry, espresso and mocha abv: 14.8% Price: $36 tones lead into a coffee-ground finish. —M.K. ONX 2017 Caliber (Templeton Gap District). abv: 15.7% Price: $52 Shafer 2017 TD-9 (Napa Valley). Blending 94 For full review see page 6. 92 62% Merlot, 22% Malbec and 16% ­Cabernet abv: 15.4% Price: $65 ONX 2017 Crux (Paso Robles). For full review Sauvignon, winemaker Elias Fernandez shows his 93 see page 8. skill, producing a thick, earthy and spicy red with Pence 2018 PTG Pinot Noir-Gamay (Sta. Rita abv: 15.2% Price: $54 vibrant red fruit. Ripe firm tannins add weight and 94 Hills). This winery is on the frontline of power to the full-bodied blockbuster, as toasted oak California’s Gamay renaissance, and this bottling of ONX 2017 Mad Crush (Templeton Gap seals the finish. —V.B. 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay is great evidence 93 District).­ For full review see page 8. abv: 15.3% Price: $60 of Gamay’s potential. Aromas of carnation, rose abv: 14.9% Price: $48 petal, smashed raspberry, red currant and wet stone Stolpman 2018 La Cuadrilla (Ballard Can- lead into a crisp, lively sip, where white pepper and ONX 2017 Praetorian (Templeton Gap 92 yon). This bottling was a pioneer in uplift- river stone decorate the fresh fruit-punch and can- 93 District).­ For full review see page 8. Cellar ing the education and funding of farmworkers when died cranberry flavors. The structure remains taut. Selection. it began years ago, and the results keep getting bet- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $48 ter. Aromas of cooked plums, cracked pepper, wood abv: 13.2% Price: $36 spice and beef jerky show on the nose of the blend Prospect 772 2017 The Brawler Syrah-­ of 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 15% Sangiovese, Alpha Omega 2016 Proprietary (Napa Valley).­ 93 Viognier (Sierra Foothills). This is a meaty while smashed berries, toasted sage and coffee 93 This blends 73% Cabernet Sauvignon with delicious lip-smacking wine, with distinctive fruit beans arise on the sip. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit and wood-smoke flavors, great structure and an abv: 14.1% Price: $22 ­Verdot. Together, they find harmony in grippy black excellent sense of depth. Aromas of dried meat and fruit, viscous thick tannin and pronounced oak. black cherry lead to fresh and concentrated fruit Stolpman 2018 Para Maria de los Tecolotes Leather, sage and peppercorn round out the savory flavors on a firm texture of fine tannins and good 92 (Santa Barbara County). It’s hard to find a elements of intrigue and flavor. —V.B. acidity. Best through 2027. —J.G. better wine for the price than this blend of 80% abv: 15.3% Price: $104 abv: 15.5% Price: $39 Syrah and 20% Petite Verdot. Blistered black-plum, charcoal and fresh boysenberry aromas kick off the Croma Vera 2017 Revelación (Paso Robles). Vineyard 36 2017 Foundation (Napa ­Valley). nose, while the palate blends black pepper, boy- 93 For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection­ . 93 Made by Vineyard 29 winemaker Keith senberry and smoke. It is a versatile table wine, as abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Emerson, this hearty blend of 86% Merlot and apt for tacos and barbecue as it is for prime rib and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon impresses in its balance roast lamb. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Hubba 2017 Dreamland (Central Coast). This and brightness. Red-fruit-dominant, it has grainy, abv: 14.1% Price: $22 93 unique blend of 75% Grenache from Chelle grippy tannin and oak, with a quiet intensity that Mountain near Paso Robles and 25% Cabernet Sau- speaks to its full-bodied power and graceful length. Tanner 2016 The Pioneer Meritage Estate vignon from Star Lane in Happy Canyon of Santa —V.B. 92 Grown (Sierra Foothills). Captivating oak Barbara starts with aromas of dried cherry, plum, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 spices like cigar box and pencil shavings lead to slate and wet soil. There is great French toast spice seductive, melted black-cherry and dark-chocolate character to the complex yet well integrated palate, MCV 2017 1105 (Paso Robles). Charred flavors in this full-bodied and velvet-textured wine. where dark-cherry and black-plum flavors ride a 92 wood, blackberry-jam, delicate lilac and An almost irresistible flavor spectrum keeps the ­vibrant acidity. —M.K. rugged earth aromas converge in compelling ways wine interesting from first sniff to lingering finish. abv: 15.7% Price: $37 on the nose of this blend of 58% Petite Sirah, 14% —J.G. Syrah, 11% Tannat, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Grenache abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Hubba 2017 The Eskimo (Central Coast). and 1% Viognier. Concentrated flavors of black cur- 93 Baked black cherry, warm spice-cake and rant meet with leathery tannins on the dry hearty Écluse 2017 Ensemble (Paso Robles). Deep light licorice flavors play nicely together on the palate. —M.K. 91 and dark blackberry and black-cherry tones nose of this blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon from abv: 15.2% Price: $48 meet with pencil shavings and charred wood on the Star Lane Vineyard and 33% Syrah from Bassetti nose of this balanced blend of 35% Cabernet Sau- Vineyard. There is compelling density to the pal- Mineral Wines 2017 La Calavera (Calaveras vignon, 29% Malbec, 24% Petit Verdot, 6% Caber- ate, where rich and expressive fruit flavors mix with 92 County). Bold and concentrated, this full- net Franc and 6% Merlot. Roasted berry and cherry nutmeg and Christmas spices. —M.K. bodied blend of Tempranillo and Malbec offers show on the sip alongside more scorched wood fla- abv: 14.7% Price: $42 massive black-fruit and black-pepper flavors and vors, finishing on hints of purple flower and minty a very firm but polished structure of tannins and earth. —M.K. Jamie Slone Wines 2017 Lozier (Santa Ynez good acidity. Depth and power are its hallmarks, as abv: 14.2% Price: $48 93 Valley). Lively and fresh aromas of smashed vivid flavors from the grapes easily dominate a mild red currants, rose petal, sumac and hibiscus candy Écluse 2017 Insider (Paso Robles). Hearty make for a very pleasant nose on this blend of 39% 91 blackberry, dark loamy earth and wet crushed

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 slate aromas show on the nose of this blend of 38% ONX 2017 Level 22 (Templeton Gap District). ­orange, with a well-integrated tannin structure and Malbec, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Tannat, 91 Charred black cherry, raw beef and a wild balanced weight. —V.B. 12% Carignan and 12% Merlot. Thick tannins frame bit of barnyard show on the nose of this blend of abv: 14.1% Price: $28 the fresh yet dark fruit, which benefits from hints of 38% Syrah, 37% Mourvèdre, 11% Petit Verdot, 11% cocoa, mud and violets on the finish. —M.K. ­Petite Sirah and 3% Viognier. Rustic leathery fla- Andis 2017 Painted Fields (Sierra Foothills). abv: 14.1% Price: $52 vors of beef jerky are a rugged balance to the black- 90 For full review see page 14. berry-paste core. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Gershon Bachus 2015 Dae Dia Meritage (Tem- abv: 15.4% Price: $54 91 ecula Valley). Clean aromas of baked red Brutocao 2016 Coro (Mendocino). This cherries, oak, hickory and peppercorns make for a Palmina 2016 Savoia (Santa Barbara County). 90 smooth, mellow and subtly complex blend compelling nose on this blend of 50% Malbec, 20% 91 Stewed red berries and cranberries meet of Zinfandel and five other grapes is a winner, offer- Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. with elegant touches of new leather and game on the ing light oak spices and mature fruit aromas before Baked black- and red-cherry flavors meet with dried nose of this always unique blend of 50% , meltingly ripe and soft plum, fig and chocolate fla- herbs on the medium-bodied pleasantly fresh palate. 25% Barbera and 25% Syrah. There is a leathery vors coat the palate. A nice touch of tannins helps —M.K. grip to the sip, where black-plum and berry flavors build structure but this wine is ready to drink now. abv: 13.6% Price: $60 meet with violet and lavender touches. —M.K. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Hearst Ranch 2017 Reserve G-S-M (Paso 91 Robles). Crumpled lilac, violet and lavender Rock Wall 2018 Kent’s Legacy Heritage Carol Shelton 2015 Karma Reserve (Sonoma aromas meet with dark plum, berry and cola spice 91 (Sonoma­ County). This is winemaker Shauna­ 90 County). This combines 57% Zinfandel on the nose of this blend. The purple-flower compo- Rosenblum’s nod to her late father and mentor, with 25% Petite Sirah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, nent plays strongly on the palate, where blueberry Kent. It is a best-barrel selection of field-blended 7% Alicante Boushet and 1% Viognier. Together, and acai make for strong flavors on a medium body. Zin from several iconic sites: St. Peters Church, they pack a powerful punch with substantial —M.K. Maggie’s and Monte Rosso. Soft, supple and struc- breadth and tannin. Salty toffee, blueberry pie and abv: 15.9% Price: $45 tured, with rounded shoulders of fruit and tannin, it baking spice give it warmth and substance. —V.B. offers full-bodied, unctuous flavors of cherry, berry abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Knights Bridge 2016 KB Estate Red Blend and leather, just the way Mr. Rosenblum would have 91 (Knights Valley).­ For full review see page 12. liked. —V.B. Gentleman Farmer 2016 Red (Napa Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 15.76% Price: $100 90 Made primarily from vineyards in the Oak Knoll District, this blends 62% Merlot with 38% Le Vigne 2017 Cuore Della Vigna (Paso Sans Liege 2017 The Offering (Santa Barbara Cabernet Sauvignon. Together, they form a cohesive 91 Robles).­ Dried cherry, loamy earth and minty 91 County). This blend of 45% Grenache, 33% mix of sultry coconut and black fruit, with a gener- herbs show on the nose of this Super Tuscan blend Syrah, 21% Mourvèdre and 1% Viognier is quite ous helping of spicy oak. —V.B. of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% light in the glass and shy in aromas at first, although abv: 15% Price: $65 Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Petite patience reveals red-plum and wild herb touches. Sirah. The tannins are well polished and the acid The lightly bodied palate is zippy in acidity, offer- Home Field Red 2016 Red (Dry Creek Valley). is fresh, carrying those minty cherry flavors into a ing flavors of wild berry, rosewater, forest mint and 90 A likable Zinfandel-driven blend, this has grippy finish. —M.K. white pepper. —M.K. sizable components of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- abv: 14.6% Price: $45 abv: 15.4% Price: $29 lot, Carignan and Petite Sirah, too—the whole add- ing up to a spicy, herbal and juicy offering of tart Left Bend NV Mashup V.5 (Santa Cruz Moun- Stolpman 2017 La Croce (Ballard Canyon). red fruit. Generous oak and moderate tannin give 91 tains). This -style blend of many grapes 91 This annual estate blend of 50% ­Sangiovese it powerful smoothness and lasting richness. —V.B. and vintages starts with aromas of black plum, dark and 50% Syrah is built to last, starting with fresh abv: 14.6% Price: $25 berry, violet and charred meat. The palate is fruit- aromas of blackberries, currants, vanilla and driven at first, with a burst of blackberry paste, and granite-like minerality. The fruit is more dried on Indigené 2016 Ambiente (Paso Robles). then come the more earthy and stony flavors, with a the palate, where minty herbs and oaky elements 90 Concentrated aromas of hibiscus and black decent pepper spice in the finish. —M.K. enhance the sip. This is still a bit young, so drink raspberry provide ample freshness on the nose of abv: 15.1% Price: $55 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. this Super Tuscan blend. There is plenty of grip to abv: 14.1% Price: $66 the lighter bodied sip, where licorice and cola spice Markus Wine Co 2017 Sol (Lodi). Powerful but decorate the dark-berry fruit. —M.K. 91 layered and supple, too, this full-bodied wine Thirty-Seven 2016 The Hermit Reserve abv: 14.6% Price: $35 based on Petite Sirah blends dark fruits like black- 91 (Sonoma­ County). A blend of 75% ­Cabernet berry and black cherry with smoky dark-chocolate Franc and 25% Merlot, this well-made wine is Jess and Jules 2017 Red (Sonoma County). accents and wraps them in a velvety texture of fine- ­robust in ripeness and complexity, showing the 90 With a grainy grip of tannin and rich baked grained tannins. Best through 2027. —J.G. majority variety’s herbal, chalky and floral charac- plum and blackberry, this blend is soft and well abv: 15.1% Price: $39 teristics. Baked plum, tobacco and dark chocolate integrated, a tremendous value for the quality and accent a core of supple tannin and toasted oak. price. Sultry in baking spice, vanilla and a touch McClain Cellars 2017 Promise Keeper Reserve —V.B. of caramel, it finishes with a roundedness that 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). Polished aromas of cara- abv: 15.3% Price: $46 appeals. —V.B. mel, red plum, baked cherry and pastry show on the abv: 14.5% Price: $30 smooth nose of this red blend. The palate combines Ampelos 2016 Ampelos Vineyard Syrache alpine strawberry flavors with cardamom cream and 90 Syrah-Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a Kelly Fleming 2015 Big Pour (Napa Valley). vanilla, as well as floral touches that flourish into combination of 65% Syrah and 35% Grenache that 90 A likable blend of 75% estate Cabernet the finish. —M.K. showcases each variety well. Tart, tangy and densely­ Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 10% Malbec, this is a abv: 14.21% Price: $60 textured, it shines in strawberry, cranberry and big juicy red, supple in red and black fruit, plum and a light spice of oak. Integrated tannins make for a

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BUYINGGUIDE wine that’s ready to go, enjoyable now, with a fin- Rowen Wine Co. 2016 Rowen Red Wine and baking-spice flavors linger into a vanilla-laced ishing touch of chocolate-covered cherry. —V.B. 90 (Sonoma ­County). For full review see page finish. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $90 16. abv: 14.6% Price: $62 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Le Vigne 2017 Ame de la Vigne (Paso Montemar 2014 G-S-M (Santa ­Barbara 90 Robles).­ Blackberry and cedar aromas kick William Hill Estate 2015 Benchmark (Napa 89 County).­ lavender, sandalwood and black- off the nose on this blend of 44% Grenache, 41% 90 Valley). For full review see page 16. plum-paste aromas arise on the nose of this Petite Sirah and 15% Syrah. The palate is more com- abv: 15.4% Price: $100 ­county-wide blend. The wood-spice influence also pelling, proving thicker in texture in a ripe boysen- shows on the cedar-laced palate, where purple-acai berry-paste flavor alongside fresh acidity. —M.K. Akash 2017 Three’s Company (Temecula flavors play with lavender. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $48 89 Valley).­ Aromas of black currant and abv: 13.9% Price: $38 turned earth transition to sagebrush and licorice on Le Vigne 2017 Nikiara (Paso Robles). Dark the nose of this red blend. Dried mint and more wild Newsome-Harlow 2016 The Deviant (Cala­ 90 cherry and dried loamy soil aromas come sage play on the palate against a baked black-plum 89 veras County). This is a dry, well-structured through most prominently on the nose of this blend core. —M.K. wine blended from classic California grape variet- of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, abv: 14.4% Price: $62 ies of Carignan, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah. It’s 5% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Petite Sirah. packed with tasty ripe blackberry, cranberry and The palate is lighter bodied than expected, offering Bliss 2016 Red (Mendocino). This black-cherry flavors. A tangy, slightly tannic texture plum, blackberry and roasted herb flavors. —M.K. 89 ­estate-grown wine tops good fruit con- frames all that fruit very nicely and leaves a lip- abv: 14.6% Price: $51 centration with baking spices, pouring lush oak smacking finish. —J.G. notes over plum, black cherry and strawberry for abv: 14.9% Price: $45 Markus Wine Co 2017 Blue (Lodi). Nicely an almost­ irresistible, easy-to-drink combination. 90 balanced and dry, this full-bodied, complex —J.G. Work Vineyard 2015 Adrien’s Blend (Napa blend based on Petit Verdot will pair nicely with rich abv: 13.5% Price: $16 89 Valley). A Cabernet Sauvignon-driven indulgent entrées as moderate tannins add grip to blend aged in new French barrels, half of it new, the deep dark fruit flavors. Best through 2025. —J.G. Brutocao 2016 Quadriga Hopland Ranches this wine is heavily oak-influenced as well, tasting abv: 14.8% Price: $39 89 (Mendocino). Handsome baking-spice aro- of cinnamon sticks and vanilla. Soft red fruit and mas and moderate fruit and oak flavors come together supple tannin combine nicely across the palate, Patel 2016 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This red nicely in this full-bodied, muscular, square-jawed with grippy tannins on the finish. —V.B. 90 blends 51% Malbec with 39% Cabernet wine. Toasted oak, cedar, sage and tea accent the red- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Aged in 100% and black-cherry flavors. Best through 2024. —J.G. new French oak for 19 months, it offers earthy, spicy abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Clockwise 2016 Red (Napa ­Valley). This density, thick in cola and brown sugar, with a grip 88 blend of a majority Cabernet Sauvignon on the palate. The fruit is a mix of blackberry and Darcie Kent Vineyards 2015 Choreography with sizable additions of Petit Verdot, Merlot and plum. —V.B. 89 (San Francisco Bay). This well-structured Malbec delivers simple fruitiness and dark layers of abv: 14.9% Price: $75 wine shows fresh cherry and blackberry flavors and spice. Supple and approachable, it broods in black- a good firm texture, with moderate tannins. The berry, clove and earth. —V.B. Prospect 772 2017 The Truant G-S-M (­Sierra fruit notes are ripe, concentrated and a bit tangy, abv: 14.3% Price: $68 90 Foothills). This appealing and smooth-­ nicely framed by the effect of new French oak. —J.G. textured wine based on two-thirds Grenache offers abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Highwayman 2017 Trailblazer Reserve alluring floral aromas and rich chocolaty flavors. 88 (Sonoma­ County). Robust and juicy in soft The wine has good depth, full body and rather soft Jax 2017 Y3 Taureau (Napa Valley). This appealing layers of black cherry, cassis and bak- tannins that keep it feeling plush on the palate. 89 blends 50% Merlot with 30% Cabernet ing spice, this wine combines 75% Zinfandel with —J.G. Sauvignon and 20% Syrah, combining them into 15% Petite Sirah. The full-bodied ripeness is held abv: 15% Price: $36 a forceful, full-bodied and approachable wine of in check against the lushness of spicy fruit. —V.B. ­viscous richness and dried plum fruit. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $25 Raymond 2016 Reserve Selection (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $20 90 Valley). Blending a majority of Merlot with Hovey 2017 C2 (Sierra Foothills). Barnyard Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Le Casque 2017 Calotte (Sierra Foothills). 88 and turned earth aromas lead to earthy Franc, Petite Sirah and Malbec, this red is tight and 89 This is a rich full-bodied wine that is hearty iron-like flavors in this funky, off-beat but compel- fresh in bright red fruit, big tannins and generous in flavor, offering good black-plum and black-­ ling wine. A deep plummy richness underlies the power. It dances around components of cocoa pow- pepper notes and high-octane content that can be earthy tones and helps the wine evolve across the der and baking spice, with pronounced toasted oak. felt in the texture and finish. —J.G. palate and through the finish. —J.G. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $27 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Markus Wine Co 2017 Domo (Lodi). Smooth Jamie Slone Wines 2016 P1 (Santa Ynez Round Pond 2016 Proprietary Red (Ruther- 89 and rich, this full-bodied wine coats the pal- 88 Valley).­ Baked cherry and berry aromas 90 ford). Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon ate with ripe plum and milk-chocolate flavors, while meet with nutmeg spice and a touch of grape seed with 36% Petit Verdot and 14% Malbec, this red a soft texture keeps it broad in mouthfeel. Blended on the nose of this blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvi- wine packs a powerful punch, showing thick tight- from Carignan, Malbec and Zinfandel. —J.G. gnon and 34% Syrah. Tangy and somewhat primary grained tannin and juicy supple red fruit. Toasted abv: 14.8% Price: $39 aromas of black-plum skins and more grape seed oak is integrated and in plain sight—the whole show on the palate. —M.K. ­likably drinkable. —V.B. McClain Cellars 2017 Chapter & Verse (­Santa abv: 14% Price: $49 abv: 14.8% Price: $88 89 Ynez Valley). Roasted coffee and black- cherry aromas meet with smoke and wet stone on Lapis Luna 2017 Red Wine Blend (North the nose of this proprietary blend. It’s a rich and 88 Coast). This full-bodied wine balances flavorful wine on the palate, where roasted berry the full fruitiness of strawberries and red cherries

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 against an appetizing texture laced with light tan- and oak, it offers bright flashes of acidity through- The Winery SF NV People’s Blend VIII (North nins and good fruit acidity. The label image alone— out, freshening the soft integrated tannin. —V.B. 87 Coast). Huge fruit aromas and flavors give from a 400-year-old engraving—is almost worth the abv: 14% Price: $49 this full-bodied wine an outsized personality as it price. Best Buy. —J.G. oozes blackberry, raisin and boysenberry flavors abv: 14.3% Price: $13 Benessere 2015 Estate Phenomenon (St. that turn to chocolate and linger on the finish. —J.G. 87 Helena). This is a proprietary blend of 31% abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Mathis 2015 Uber Blend (Sonoma Valley). Sangiovese, 31% Merlot, 25% Syrah and 13% Cab- 88 From the producer’s estate vineyard, this ernet Sauvignon. Together, they present a densely Toca Madera 2016 Estate Bottled Cabernet blends 49% Petite Sirah with 26% Grenache, 19% rich taste of caramel toffee and sweet plum, with 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (Madera). This full-bodied, Carignan and 6% Alicante Bouschet. Plummy jam Christmas raisin cake and blackberry jam. —V.B. plummy and round-textured wine is big but gentle, and a mildly soft structure give it a robust round- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 pouring ripe and slightly spicy fruit flavors over ness and enduring richness punctured in cola and moderate tannins, and it has enough concentration black licorice. —V.B. De Tomas 2010 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This for a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $35 87 aged blend offers dense flavors of chocolate- abv: 15.1% Price: $26 covered cherry and cassis, the texture smooth and Oak Farm 2017 Estate Grown Genevieve moderately structured. Quiet, supple tannins fall a Toca Madera 2015 Estate Bottled Cabernet 88 Meritage­ (Lodi). This dark-colored, full- tad flat on the finish, the wine perhaps on its way to 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (California). This medium- bodied and seemingly sweet wine tastes chocolaty, decline. —V.B. bodied wine offers mellow flavors and some inter- feels rich and somewhat tannic in texture and coats abv: 15.2% Price: $40 esting complexity on a supersmooth and mouthfill- its blackberry and black-plum favors with spices ing texture. Mint and balsam aromas combine with and charred wood notes. —J.G. Indigené 2017 Philanthropist (Carmel Valley).­ ripe plum flavors. —J.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $40 87 Deep and dark cherry and blackberry flavors abv: 13.2% Price: $26 meet with a beefy charcoal-laced core on the nose of Pence 2017 PTG Pinot Noir-Gamay (Sta. Rita this bottling. The tannins are very dry and cling to Ty Caton 2016 Tytanium Caton Vineyard 88 Hills). A bit cloudy in the glass, this blend of the tongue immediately, barely allowing the black- 87 (Moon Mountain District Sonoma County). Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir smells of smashed ber- berry and earth flavors to show before the acid rips This wine throws together a mélange of 36% Cab- ries, lavender, rosemary blossoms and wild herb, yet through. —M.K. ernet Sauvignon, 32% Petite Sirah, 17% Syrah, 7% retains some primary fermentation aromas. There abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Merlot and 4% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. is a very tangy entry to the sip, where the tart ber- The mix is sanguine in currant, cassis and dried ries are levelled by wild thyme and cracked pepper. Matanzas Creek 2015 Journey (Bennett herb, with a thick concentration of dusty tannin and —M.K. 87 Valley).­ A Merlot-based blend that also con- lasting ripeness. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $36 tains Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is herbal, thick abv: 15.4% Price: $80 and concentrated, with generous layers of oak and Red Thread Wines 2017 Red Wine Blend tannin. Reductive, it shows a wealth of dark cherry Jamie Slone Wines 2016 Apex (Santa Ynez 88 (Howell Mountain). Blending 65% Cabernet and plum, with enduring richness and moderate 86 Valley). Extremely tangy aromas of black- Sauvignon, 25% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah length. —V.B. plum skin meet with black pepper and damp oreg- from Summit Lake Vineyards, the producer’s estate, abv: 14.5% Price: $100 ano on the nose of this blend of 44% Malbec, 22% this is a hearty, robust wine. Juicy black fruit and Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 12% Caber- thick dry tannins give into a hugely concentrated McClain Cellars 2017 Five Hearts (Santa Ynez net Franc. The palate is also quite tangy with plum- expression of dried herb, clove and tobacco. —V.B. 87 Valley). Dark red-fruit aromas are familiar juice, grape-seed and wood-spice flavors. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $65 if simple on the nose of this blend. There are clean abv: 14.2% Price: $47 lines of blackberry and grippy tannins on the palate, Sanglier Cellars 2015 Rouge Du Tusque which is pleasant and clean, just lacking in character. Line 39 2017 Excursion Red Blend (Califor- 88 (Sonoma­ County). This is a likable and —M.K. 86 nia). For full review see page 18. Best Buy. ­approachable blend of 41% Grenache, 32% abv: 15.5% Price: $67 —J.G. Mourvèdre, 19% Syrah and 8% Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 gnon. Juicy, herbal and earthy, it offers soft, supple Oak Farm 2018 Tievoli (Lodi). Attractive oak tannin and well-integrated oak around mild flavors 87 spices dress up this ripe and robust wine Obsession 2018 Red Blend (California). Ripe of strawberry, plum and baking spice. —V.B. with vanilla and cedar, while full body and light 86 jammy tempting fruit flavors highlight this abv: 14.2% Price: $35 tannins add structure and texture. Attractive black- full-bodied wine that’s broad in mouthfeel and berry flavors develop on the palate. —J.G. relaxed in texture due to low tannins and soft acid- Vindemia 2017 Loneliness Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $19 ity. —J.G. 88 Sauvignon-­Syrah (Temecula Valley). There’s abv: 14.5% Price: $15 a mix of Old World funk and bright boysenberry Okapi NV Proprietor’s Blend (Napa Valley). paste on the nose of this blend of 80% Cabernet 87 This is a blend of multiple vintages of Caber- Obsession 2017 Red Blend (California). This Sauvignon and 20% Syrah, which is earthy and net Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Hearty, full-bodied 86 is a smooth and satisfying, medium- to leathery. Similar flavors arise in balanced ways on and richly ripe, it shows red fruit, sweet oak and full-bodied wine that layers almost-sweet oak and the palate, where savory touches of roasted lamb highlights of mocha, vanilla and nutmeg, made in a smoke aromas and red-cherry flavors over a rich and berry compote lead into a vanilla finish. —M.K. lush rounded style. —V.B. and fairly soft texture. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $98 abv: 15.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $15

ZO Wines 2017 Ganesha (Northern Sonoma). Technique 2018 Proprietary Red (Stags Leap Porch Pounder 2017 Red Wine (Central 88 This small-production wine blends 55% 87 District). This blend offers juicy dark-fruit 86 Coast). This canned wine is clean but a bit Cabernet Sauvignon with 33% Zinfandel and 12% and cocoa-powder flavors around powdered tannin generic, offering aromas of blackberry jam. The pal- Petit Verdot. Tasting of raisin cake, cherry cordial and generous oak. An under­current of dried herb ate combines strawberry jam and candied red fruits lingers on the finish. —V.B. with hints of mint and clunky tannins. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 14.9% Price: $7/375 ml

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BUYINGGUIDE

Tanner 2017 Mélange de Mere Estate Grown to coalesce with time as the tannins ­mature. Drink pineapple and flower are followed by off-dry drink- 86 (Sierra Foothills). This full-bodied and 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. ing, rich, full-bodied, nectarous stone and tropical vividly fruity wine has a sweet-tart contrast in its abv: 14.9% Price: $80 fruit flavors, with enough acidity to balance it all flavors and a texture firmed up by acidity. Tangy out. It’s an interesting interpretation of the variety. raspberry notes meet cherry-candy accents on the Santa Barbara Winery 2016 Joughin Vineyard —S.S. palate. —J.G. 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). Black-currant, abv: 14.4% Price: $20 abv: 13.6% Price: $40 forest-floor, cocoa and turned earth aromas make for a very dense and layered nose on this bottling Idilico 2018 Albariño (Yakima Valley). The The Federalist 2017 Honest (Mendocino of the grape originally from Northern Italy. It snaps 89 aromas jump up, with notes of cantaloupe, 86 County-Sonoma County-Napa County). This and grips on the sip, with tangy fruit and purple- pear and whole pineapple. The lightly spritzy seem- smooth, pleasant and rich wine features jammy flower flavors ranging from grape soda to mocha and ing palate starts out full and rich, tapering toward fruit aromas and almost-sweet flavors of plums and dust. —M.K. the finish. It has a lovely sense of acidity that keeps raisins, while a medium body and very light tannins abv: 14.2% Price: $34 the interest high. —S.S. form a soft texture. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $23 Alara 2017 Barbera (San Benito County). For 90 full review see page 13. Foundation 2017 Gloss Viognier-Roussanne 25 Days 2017 Red Blend (Sonoma County). abv: 15.3% Price: $43 88 (Columbia Valley). There are some reduc- 85 Made from 68% Merlot with smaller tive notes out of the gate. Aromas of almond butter amounts of Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvi- Alara 2017 Montepulciano (San Benito and peach follow. The pear and peach flavors are full gnon, this approachable red is reductive and oak- 90 County). For full review see page 13. bodied, showing some warmth. —S.S. driven, with a hint of bacon fat. Thick, concen- abv: 15.5% Price: $43 abv: 14.8% Price: $25 trated and a tad flat, is offers hearty fruit around an ­unfussy structure. —V.B. Palmina 2015 Walker Vineyard Barbera (Los Savage Grace 2018 Orange Oak Ridge Vine- abv: 14% Price: $19 90 Olivos District). Dark red plums, fragrant 88 yard Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). herbs and crumpled flower petals show on the nose There’s no mistaking this orange wine’s unfined, Smith Devereux 2016 Ibex Proprietary (Napa of this bottling by Steve Clifton. Tangy black-plum unfiltered nature with its cloudy appearance. 84 Valley). Blending 85% Merlot with 15% flavors are enhanced by oregano and pepper dust on There’s also no mistaking the variety. The aromas Syrah, this wine is creamy rich and grippy in siz- the palate. —M.K. pop, with notes of white flower, ginger and lychee. able tannin, with subtle elements of ash, cedar and abv: 14% Price: $46 The palate drinks dry, with a sleek feel and plentiful oak. —V.B. floral flavors. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery. abv: 13.9% Price: $35 Alara 2017 Negrette (San Benito County). —S.S. 89 Strong oregano, thyme and cracked pep- abv: 13% Price: $30 689 Cellars 2017 Devil’s Candy (Napa Valley).­ per aromas meet with toasty oak, roasted licorice 82 This throws together sizable amounts of Zin- and blackberry jam on the heavy nose of this bot- Subsoil 2018 Chardonnay (Horse Heaven fandel and Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah,­ tling. Licorice shows strongly on the rich sip as 88 Hills). Aromas of clarified butter, vanilla, Syrah and Charbono. It is green and herbal tasting, well, alongside blueberry paste, roasted cherry, and peach and cream are followed by full feeling, with a sweet fruit tone. —V.B. strong cinnamon-cream spice. —M.K. rounded flavors. Vanilla and stone fruit flavor notes abv: 15.5% Price: $35 abv: 16.2% Price: $45 linger on the finish. The oak plays a very prominent part in the show but plays it well. For those looking Alara 2017 Cabernet Pfeffer (San Benito for that style, look no further. —S.S. OTHER RED WINES 88 County). There is a dominant (though abv: 13.9% Price: $17 pleasant) barrel influence on this bottling, in which Pence 2018 Gamay (Sta. Rita Hills). Snappy a strong streak of exotic clove and nutmeg spice Phelps Creek 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia 94 aromas of carnation, rosebuds, raspberry decorates both the nose and palate. There are also 86 Gorge). The aromas offer notes of motor oil, sorbet and wet gravel quickly indicate that this is tangy aromas and flavors of plum and cranberry, as citrus and wet stone. Lemony, slightly musky flavors a Gamay Noir, such a promising grape for the entire well as balanced acidity. —M.K. follow, backed by vibrant acidity. The fruit shows Central Coast. There is grippy texture on the sip, abv: 15.3% Price: $45 a lot of promise, but can’t quite seem to get to the where underripe strawberry, red-plum and rasp- surface. —S.S. berry flavors meet with wet stone and fresh acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $34 Editors’ Choice. —M.K. WASHINGTON abv: 13.1% Price: $36 Phelps Creek 2017 Pinot Gris (Columbia WHITE WINES 85 Gorge). The aromas offer notes of lemon zest Palmina 2016 Walker Vineyard (Los and barbecue smoke. Quite smoky flavors follow, 92 Olivos District). Leathery, elegant aromas of Savage Grace 2018 Underwood Mountain with lemony acidity providing the frame. There’s dried berries, cherry compote and aged charcuterie 91 Vineyards Riesling (Columbia Gorge). With good fruit here, and the acid is impressive, but the show on the nose of this bottling. The palate weaves 15% of the wine aged in neutral barrel, the aromas smoke influence is fairly prominent. —S.S. earthy tones of leather and dried rose petals with are reserved for the variety, with notes of white abv: 12.5% Price: $24 richer Luxardo cherry flavors. —M.K. peach, almond skin, green apple and lemon balm. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 The citrus flavors drink dry and are framed by Phelps Creek 2017 Gorge Crest Gewürztra- electric, puckering, lemony acidity that commands 84 miner (Columbia Gorge). Wilted flower and Palmina 2012 Rocca Nebbiolo (Santa Barbara attention. One wishes for more aromatically, but geranium aromas are followed by lightly smoky 91 County). Ripe and rounded aromas of baked the palate more than makes up for it. Acid hounds, flavors that are backed by tart, lemony acidity. The cherry and plum are strong on the nose of this bot- this one is for you. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. acidity is the driver here, leaving it lifted and fresh. tling by Italian varietal master Steve Clifton. There’s abv: 13% Price: $22 —S.S. a tang of red-plum skin on the sip as well as stronger abv: 13% Price: $28 rose petal and more floral tones that willcontinue ­ J. Scott Cellars 2018 Albariño (Columbia Val- 90 ley). Vibrant aromas of pear, melon, whole

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 Kate Arnold 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon flower, and black currant serving as spectators. The SPARKLING WINE 88 (Columbia Valley). The aromas provide palate is light and seems citrusy. —S.S. notes of fresh bell pepper along with herbs, cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Elentone 2014 Brut (Columbia Valley). This and dark chocolate. Smooth-feeling pit fruit and 91 wine is a blend of Chardonnay (78%) and herb flavors follow. Chocolate notes linger on the Pinot Noir from Kailexsie Vineyard near Lake finish. —S.S. SYRAH Chelan. Aged 42 months en tirage, the aromas offer abv: 13.9% Price: $21 notes of pear, brioche and lemon. The palate brings Foundation 2016 Great Heights Discovery a lot of flavor complexity and texture, with its bottle T2 2016 Reserve Red Willow Vineyard Cab- 92 Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). This is age working to its benefit. It’s delightful.Editors’ 87 ernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Aromas an inaugural release from the winery. The aromas Choice. —S.S. of bittersweet chocolate and maraschino cherry are announce themselves, with notes of fresh raspberry, abv: 12.5% Price: $42 followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. The concen- smoked meat, mountain blueberry, orange peel and tration doesn’t all seem to be there. —S.S. flower shop that bring a whole lot of appeal. It’s full abv: 15.1% Price: $32 flavored and pulls no punches, bringing a sense of ROSÉ richness, intensity and polish, with a big-time yum Dead Canyon Ranch 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- factor. It’s a strong opening hand. Editors’ Choice. T2 2018 Rosé of Counoise (Yakima Valley). 86 gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas offer —S.S. 85 Grenache (24%) rounds out this wine. Aro- notes of smoke, black currant, green pepper and abv: 14.8% Price: $32 mas of bubblegum, strawberry and lees lead to off- plum. Sweet matchstick and plum flavors follow, dry flavors that don’t have the acidity to match. It backed by tightly coiled, slightly dry tannins. Give Foundation 2017 Lost in Translation Stillwa- gets bogged down in the sugar. —S.S. it a short decant if drinking in the near term. —S.S. 90 ter Creek Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). abv: 12.8% Price: $18 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Coming from a vineyard on the Royal Slope, the aro- mas display notes of toasty char and roasted coffee Subsoil 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse bean, along with huckleberry and crushed rock. The CABERNET SAUVIGNON 86 Heaven Hills). Green garden herb aromas palate is initially more sleek in style than the aro- are out front, followed by notes of plum, raspberry, mas might suggest but still delivers plenty of flavor. Devona 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia black currant and whiffs of smoke. The black cur- —S.S. 91 Valley). This wine shows very pretty aromas rant flavors are light and middle-focused. It comes abv: 14.4% Price: $32 of dried herb, cherry and cocoa. There’s a pleasing off as a bit underripe. —S.S. balance and nuance on the palate, with enough tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Savage Grace 2017 Red Willow Vineyard nic structure to go the distance. Coffee notes linger 90 Syrah (Yakima Valley). Coming from the on the finish. Best after 2023. —S.S. vineyard where the original Syrah vines went into abv: 14.4% Price: $38 MERLOT the ground in Washington, the aromas pop, with notes of moist earth after a rain, stem, flower, green Foundation 2014 MMXIV Cabernet Sauvignon Maryhill 2016 Kiona Vineyards Heart of the herb and blackberry bramble, along with a medici- 91 (Red Mountain). This is the inaugural release 88 Hill Merlot (Red Mountain). This wine is nal note. A full-flavored but still elegant palate fol- from this winery. It’s a blend of fruit from Shaw and 100% varietal, aged 21 months in three-quarters lows, with cherry Robitussin notes on the finish. Quintessence vineyards, aged 24 months in half new French oak. Aromas of gravel, black licorice, —S.S. new French oak. Brooding aromas of spice, cherry vanilla, wood spice and raspberry are out front. abv: 12.8% Price: $40 and dried herb surround a penetrating anise note. Medium-bodied red and black fruit flavors follow, The palate is reserved in style, well-balanced, with with lightly grainy tannins in support. —S.S. firm tannins and a pleasing sense of acidity given abv: 14.5% Price: $44 RED BLENDS the warmth of the vintage and region. It will do well with a bit of time in the cellar. Best after 2023.Cel - Maryhill 2016 Elephant Mountain Merlot Andrew Rich 2016 Glacial G-S-M (Columbia lar Selection. —S.S. 86 (Rattlesnake Hills). Baking spice, cut green 90 Valley). Syrah (60%) takes the lead in this abv: 14.8% Price: $42 pepper and dark cherry aromas are followed by wine, followed by Mourvèdre and then Grenache. green herb and pit fruit flavors that paint around Tones of raspberry, blueberry and spice carry the Pomum 2016 Shya Red Cabernet Sauvignon the edges. It’s a quite green expression of the vari- nose and palate, with a sultry, compact feel. Give 90 (Yakima Valley). The aromas are locked up ety. —S.S. them some time to stretch out. —S.S. on first pour, with the notes of garden herb, cherry abv: 15% Price: $38 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 and spice not ready to reveal themselves. The pal- ate is similarly shy, with sleek fruit flavors, taught Maryhill 2016 Les Collines Vineyard Merlot Mercer 2017 Bros. Edge of Heaven (Horse tannins and a lively sense of acidity. It has all of the 86 (Walla Walla Valley). This is 100% varietal, 89 Heaven Hills). The aromas are bursting with stuffing but needs some time in the cellar to show grown at an elevation of 1,380 feet—high for the notes of blueberry, plum, black pepper, orange peel itself. Best after 2023. Have it on the dinner table to valley. The aromas bring notes of raspberry, dried and dried herb. Ripe, plump blue fruit flavors fol- see it at its best. —S.S. herb, alcohol and spice, seeming subdued. The fla- low, tapering toward the blue fruit and chocolate- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 vors paint around the edges, bringing a reserved filled finish. It has a nice yum factor. —S.S. styling, with the tannins showing some astringency abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Foundation 2015 MMXV Cabernet Sauvi- and bitterness. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The 88 gnon (Red Mountain). The aromas show variety seems hard to place. Give it a long decant if Mercer 2016 Cavalie Reserve (Horse Heaven with notes of wood spice, a whiff of tire rubber, dark drinking in the near term. —S.S. 89 Hills). Merlot makes up just over half of this chocolate and cherry. A full-flavored palate follows, abv: 13.7% Price: $38 wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, backed by burly tannins that need some time to be Petit Verdot and Syrah. Brooding aromas of rasp- tamed. It’s not entirely clear where it’s going. —S.S. Mercer 2017 Bros. Merlot (Horse Heaven berry, cherry candy, cocoa and herb lead to light, abv: 14.8% Price: $42 84 Hills). Aromas of vanilla, plum and smoke elegant, center-focused fruit flavors, which broaden seem to clash in the glass, with green herb, green with time open. It shows a pretty sense of deftness

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BUYINGGUIDE and sophistication, with a pleasing tannic structure. flower-filled palate is sleek and lithe, with a mouth- the core. The red fruit and peppery flavors show Fresh herb notes linger on the finish. —S.S. watering sensibility and a long finish. It’s a dazzler. a sense of elegance, though the concentration at abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Edi- times doesn’t all seem there, trailing toward the fin- tors’ Choice. —S.S. ish. Still, there’s much to like. —S.S. Pomum 2016 Red Wine (Columbia Valley). abv: 12.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.8% Price: $42 89 This wine is 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 7% Merlot, Savage Grace 2017 Boushey Vineyard Côt Maryhill 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyard with the rest Petit Verdot. Aromas of garden herb, 92 (Yakima Valley). The aromas are arresting, 89 Sangiovese (Rattlesnake Hills). The aromas coffee bean and cocoa are followed by sleek fruit fla- with achingly pure notes of dark plum, boysenberry, are reserved, with notes of cherry pie, dried herb vors supported by somewhat bunched up tannins. A dried herb and black pepper. The palate is elegant and spice. Plump red and black fruit flavors follow, fine sense of acidity adds to the appeal. Best at the and shows a dazzling sense of purity, deftness, with enough acidity and tannin structure to stand dinner table. Give it a short decant if drinking in the nuance and balance, with enough acidity and tannin it up straight. It shows some warmth on the finish. near term. —S.S. structure to do well with a bit of time in the cellar. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Offerings like this from this producer are redefining abv: 15.1% Price: $38 what is all about. Make sure to Maryhill 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyards pair it with food, perhaps a grilled pork chop with a Maryhill 2016 McKinley Springs Vineyard 88 Marvell G-S-M (Rattlesnake Hills). Syrah cherry reduction. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 89 Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills). Dried (40%) takes the lead on this wine, followed by abv: 12.4% Price: $35 herb and cocoa aromas are out front, followed by Grenache (32%) and Mourvèdre. The aromas offer notes of red apple and coffee. Dark-fruit flavors fol- notes of baking spice, cocoa and dark fruit. The fla- Idilico 2016 Garnacha (Yakima Valley). Aro- low, starting out full and then dipping in the middle. vors are ripe and sweet in style, with plentiful bar- 91 mas of strawberry, cherry gummy, citrus and Coffee notes linger on the finish. Lively acidity and rel spice accents throughout. It stretches out on plum rise up from the glass. The red fruit flavors firm tannic structure supports it all. Have it with the black pepper-filled finish. Fruit and barrel play are ripe, full and show a pleasing sense of purity, food to see it at its best. —S.S. equal parts. —S.S. with a lightly smoky finish. It’s a superb value. More abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.8% Price: $46 please! Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $20 Maryhill 2016 Art Den Hoed Vineyard Foundation 2016 Ransom Note (Columbia 88 Painted Hills Primitivo (Columbia Valley). 87 Valley). Celery salt, herb and cherry are fol- Idilico 2016 Monastrell (Yakima Valley). The aromas offer reserved notes of wet clay, cherry lowed by medium-bodied flavors that trail toward 91 Somewhat pale in color for the variety, with candy, spice, dark coffee and dried herb. The pal- the finish. It brings some astringency and green- aromas offering notes of wild strawberry, dried ate is considerably more giving, with full-bodied ness. The concentration doesn’t seem all there; it’s flower and spice. The palate is full in feel but dances flavors of vanilla, cherry and baking spice, with the in an awkward spot at present. —S.S. lightly, showing a sense of nuance to the red fruit oak—65% new European and American—getting a abv: 14.8% Price: $32 flavors. There’s a lot of quality and value to be had. bit out front of the fruit at times. —S.S. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 North by Northwest 2016 Red (Columbia Val- abv: 14.7% Price: $20 84 ley). Strong aromas of tire rubber, mesquite Maryhill 2016 Kiona Vineyards Heart of the and raspberry are followed by flavors of raspberry Savage Grace 2018 Pollard Vineyard Cabernet 87 Hill Petite Sirah (Red Mountain). The aromas that seem to fall flat. —S.S. 91 Franc (Yakima Valley). This is a new offer- are all high pitched, with the notes of flower, hay abv: 13.62% Price: $15 ing from the winery, coming within a stone’s throw and black fruit not entirely in sync. Ripe, full-bod- of Two Blondes Vineyard, where it also makes a ied flavors follow, with a big lick of firm, slightly dry Old Tavern Farm 2017 Farm Table (Columbia varietal offering. Aromas of cinnamon, strawberry, tannins tying it together. —S.S. 84 Valley). This is a blend of half Syrah, 40% mushroom, cherry and red plum rise up from the abv: 14.8% Price: $42 Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. There’s glass. Light, pure, exquisitely balanced flavors fol- aromas of matchstick, tire rubber, cherry and bar- low. Nuance, intensity and an alcohol level unheard Mercer 2016 Small Lot Spice Cabinet Vine- rel spice that are not entirely harmonious. The pit of in modern days in the state for a red or even most 87 yard Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills). The fruit flavors are lighter styled and somewhat tangy, whites (11%). It’s an accomplishment of a wine. aromas bring notes of garden herb, lemon peel and finishing short. —S.S. Might be too light and airy for some tastes, but oth- flower. The flavors are straight down the fairway, abv: 14.9% Price: $22 ers will swoon. As always with this producer, put with light tannins for the variety. Barrel notes peak it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Editors’ out on the finish. It doesn’t stand up on its own but T2 2017 G-S-M (Columbia Valley). The Gre­ Choice. —S.S. has a place at the dinner table. —S.S. 84 nache for this wine comes from Inland abv: 11% Price: $NA abv: 13.9% Price: $32 Desert, the Syrah from Arianses and Jamison, and the Mourvèdre from Red Heaven. The aromas bring Savage Grace 2018 Underwood Mountain Hood Crest 2017 Mourvèdre (Columbia Val- notes of raspberry, cranberry, spice and nail polish. 91 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). Pierc- 86 ley). Aromas of black pepper, stem, whole The palate is smooth and textured. It appears to ingly pure Rainier cherry, red plum and dried herb orange and smoke are followed by notes of corian- have seen significant oxygen in barrel. —S.S. aromas capture the attention. There’s a lovely sense der and cherry. The palate is light in style, trailing abv: 14.3% Price: $24 of balance and tension to the fruit flavors that car- toward the finish. The concentration seems light, ries through the cinnamon-filled finish. Lightly especially for the listed alcohol. —S.S. sandy feeling tannins and citrusy acidity provide abv: 14.7% Price: $38 OTHER RED WINES support. Give it a few years in bottle to see it at its best, but it’s best is impressive. Cellar Selection. Hood Crest 2017 Nebbiolo (Columbia Val- Savage Grace 2018 Two Blondes Vineyard —S.S. 85 ley). Quite light in color with an orange 92 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). The aromas abv: 13% Price: $42 tinge, this wine has aromas showing notes of smoke, draw you into the glass, with notes of flower, rasp- black pepper and raspberry. The palate is light and berry, dried and fresh green herb, mushroom, dried Maryhill 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyard juicy, with firm tannins. It’s interesting, though not orange rind, cherry, spice and moist earth, show- 89 Mourvèdre (Rattlesnake Hills). Coffee, dried ing a mesmerizing sense of purity and detail. The herb and cherry Luden’s cough drop aromas form

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 entirely successful. Have it with dinner to see it at its best. —S.S. abv: 15.1% Price: $40

T2 2016 Reserve Gamache Vineyard Malbec 84 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of maraschino cherry, red apple, dark fruit, nail polish and spice are followed by evolved flavors. It seems to have seen some oxygen in barrel. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $26

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this zesty, savory Tequila. The palate is lemony and light, drying into an herbaceous, astringent fin- ish marked by black pepper and cayenne. Mix this bright, lively Tequila into margaritas. SPIRITS abv: 40% Price: $32 Blanco Tequilas to sip or mix Corazón Expresiones Blanco Artisanal Edi- 93 tion Tequila (Mexico; Sazerac, Metairie, LA). This blanco Tequila was briefly aged in ex-American equila has been on a tear the last couple make a noticeable difference. That includes whiskey barrels from the Sazerac portfolio, specifi- of years. Sales are spiking, new bottlings the Artisanal Edition release from Corazón’s cally those from George T. Stagg, Old Rip Van Win- are constantly rolling out, and especially ­Expresiones line, a collection of Tequilas rested kle, Buffalo Trace and Sazerac Rye. The end result is in May, when Cinco de Mayo throws a in ex-American whiskey barrels, resulting in a a mild almond aroma and tantalizing notes of brown ­celebratoryT spotlight on Mexico’s native spirit, sip that marries whiskeylike richness and spice sugar, brown butter and nutmeg on the palate, with a plushness that’s unusual for a blanco. Overall, this bartenders are mixing all sorts of margaritas for with the jalapeño zing more typical of Tequila. drinks like a whiskey, save for the jalapeño zippi- thirsty American revelers. Bartenders also tend to reach for blanco ness on the finish. Interesting and complex. Bottled The growth of celebrity Tequila hasn’t hurt to mix into cocktails. Increasingly, the spirit in 2013. either (see story on page 18). is finding its way into drinks abv: 40% Price: $60 Stars are drinking Tequila on beyond just the Margarita. Blanco Tequilas, 4 Copas Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Preiss the red carpet, and plenty are Consider, for example, the Sage sometimes called 92 Imports, Ramona, CA). Complex, enticing releasing brands of their own to Tequila Julep served at Santa tropical fruit aromas entice. A fleeting, mouthwa- quaff. One of the newest, Villa silver or plata, are Fe’s Tonic: crushed mint and tering saline note up front carries over into a burst One from singer/songwriter the No. 1 choice of local sage mixed with blanco of salted fruit: guava, lychee, prickly pear lead into Nick Jonas and designer John Tequila and simple syrup, a waxy rosewater exhale laced with grapefruit peel most consumers. and cardamom. ­Varvatos, is reviewed below. made even more refreshing by abv: 40% Price: $43 Although longer-aged styles ­pouring it over a small moun- like reposado and añejo tend to receive the tain of crushed ice. Casa Dragones Blanco Tequila (Mexico: Casa most attention, blanco Tequilas, sometimes­ With its crisp, bright flavor and often just 92 Dragones, Manhasset, NY). Mild, sweet called silver or plata, are the No. 1 choice of a whisper of honeylike sweetness, no wonder mango and coconut aromas lead into a mouthwa- teringly tart, fruity palate. Vanilla and coconut take most ­consumers. some purists believe that blanco is the only over into the smooth, elegant finish, exiting with a To be classified as a blanco, the liquid “real” Tequila, and the best, purest expression sprinkle of sweet cinnamon. must be aged fewer than 60 days, if it’s aged of the agave plant. Seek out these pours as the abv: 40% Price: $75 at all. But of course, not all blancos are built warmer weather sets in. alike. For example, a couple of bottlings in this Cheers! Vida de Louie Blanco Tequila (Mexico; LDDV Inc., Jacksonville, FL). This is a delicate, month’s line-up spent enough time in oak to —Kara Newman 92 slightly floral blanco with hints of lime blossom, lime peel and granite leading into a fleeting violet note on the brisk, peppery exhale. The bottle topper is a hard to miss round wooden piece with skull and crossbones in the middle. Maestro Dobel Silver Tequila (Mexico; rounding into sun-dried tomato earthiness, mouth- abv: 40% Price: $35 96 Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). The sweet watering lemon peel and bright lemon-pepper on aroma hints at tropical fruit and white chocolate, the long finish. The producer chose to go with the Cincoro Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Park Street underpinned by jalapeño. The buttery palate deliv- extra-proof “still strength” because “this is how 91 Imports, Miami, FL). For full review see page ers on the promise of fruit, showing melon, lychee, Tequila was enjoyed over 125 years ago by my Great 18. and grapefruit peel that wind into a delicate white- Great Grandfather.” The bottle, topped with a hand- abv: 40% Price: $70 pepper finish. painted agave piña, was hand-blown by bottle arti- abv: 40% Price: $44 sans in Mexico. Tanteo Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Park Street abv: 46% Price: $55 91 Imports, Miami, FL). The gentle, sweet aroma Los Rijos Silver Tequila (Mexico; Distiller mixes fruit and floral nuance. The palate opens with 95 Sales, Princeton, MN). This Tequila is brisk Antaño Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Distiller mellow agave and a hint of vanilla sugar, then blos- and slightly vegetal, with tones of bell pepper and 93 Sales Company, Princeton, MN). Concen- soms into clove and cayenne heat on the lingering tarragon layered with almond. The generously trated agave and savory herbs unfurl on the nose. finish. spiced finish shows clove, cinnamon and a hint of The steely palate starts with lemon peel astrin- abv: 42.5% Price: $40 cardamom. It’s a complex blanco to sip or mix. gency, then softens into coconut and almond sweet- abv: 40% Price: $32 ness and a tingly, cinnamon-laced finish. Villa One Silver Tequila (Mexico; Stoli Group, abv: 40% Price: $37 91 New York, NY). With mellow tinges of coconut Fortaleza Still Strength Blanco Tequila (Mex- on nose and palate, this Tequila is generally mild, 94 ico; Winebow, New York, NY). The savory, Cazul 100 Blanco Reserva Tequila (Mexico; with hints of almond and charcoal, finishing light spicy aroma hints at fresh tomato. The drying, 93 Distiller Sales Company, Princeton, MN). astringent palate opens with a savory, herbal blast, Hints of tomato, lemon peel and dried herb perfume

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 and clean, with a bit of spicy clove heat. Backed by Batanga Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Hood River celebs Nick Jonas and John Varvatos. 88 Distillers, Hood River, OR). A bright, lemony abv: 40% Price: $45 aroma leads the nose. The palate layers lemon ver- bena and pine with agave sweetness, plus verdant Espanita Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Double hints of tarragon and bell pepper. Ginger heat and 90 Eagle Imports, Alpharetta, GA). An initial eucalyptus create a refreshing, tingly exhale. Best burst of alcohol heat gives way to plenty of ripe Buy. tropical fruit: guava, banana, lychee. The palate abv: 40% Price: $25 echoes a milder version of those tones, as lychee fades into a rosewater exhale enlivened by pink El Tesoro Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Beam Sun- peppercorn and cayenne. Best Buy. 88 tory, Chicago, IL). This bracing blanco leads abv: 40% Price: $29 with jalapeño on nose and palate, finishing steely and spicy. Lemony astringency bursts forward on G4 Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Winebow, New the brisk, slightly numbing finish. 90 York, NY). The zesty, spicy aroma hints at abv: 40% Price: $45 tomato and jalapeño. Agave nectar opens the pal- ate, coupled with jalapeño sizzle. A bold fruity note Espolòn Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Campari lingers into the mouthwatering finish laced with 88 America, San Francisco, CA). Light coconut ginger and cayenne heat. sweetness on nose and palate give this blanco a gen- abv: 40% Price: $46 tle feel. Each sip wraps with white pepper, ginger and cinnamon sparks. Best Buy. Pueblo Viejo Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Saz- abv: 40% Price: $25 90 erac, Louisville, KY). The complex palate shows tropical fruit and prickly pear, fading into a Jose Cuervo Platino Reserva de la Famila long, rounded wash of honey accented by zippy bak- 88 Tequila (Mexico; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, ing spice and ginger heat. Sip or mix. Best Buy. NJ). Mild vanilla and lemon peel aromas lead into abv: 40% Price: $19 the bright, brisk palate. Citrusy astringency and jalapeño heat lead into a wash of agave on the finish. Arette Classico Blanco Tequila (Mexico; T. abv: 40% Price: $65 89 Edwards, New York, NY). Honeysuckle aro- mas lead into a mild, honeyed, slightly floral palate Lunazul Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Heaven Hill that meanders into a long finish enlivened by ginger, 88 Brands, Bardstown, KY). Zesty jalapeño and cayenne, white pepper sparks. Hints of melon and agave aromas appear on the nose. The palate is light tropical fruit also emerge on the exhale. Best Buy. and astringent, with lemon peel and bell pepper abv: 40% Price: $20 / 1 L leading into cayenne and jalapeño sting, plus a bit of mouthwatering salinity around the edges. Best Buy. Arette Suave Blanco Tequila (Mexico; T. abv: 40% Price: $20 89 Edwards, New York, NY). Fresh, crisp fresh pear and honey aromas entice. The tingly, mentho- Gran Centenario Plata Blanco Tequila (Mex- lated palate is tinged with rubber and baked pear, 86 ico; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). Aging in finishing with zingy eucalyptus and white pepper, French oak for 28 days gives a pale straw hue and plus a white floral hint. mild coconut aroma. The palate is distinctly resin- abv: 40% Price: $45 y, with a bit of coconut sweetness playing beneath, and finishing with sweet spices: cinnamon, nutmeg, Corazón Blanco Tequila (Mexico; Sazerac, clove heat. 89 Louisville, KY). This is a mild-flavored abv: 40% Price: $28 Tequila with hints of honey, coconut and almond, finishing cleanly with tingly eucalyptus and a Jose Cuervo Tradicional Plata Tequila (Mex- warming vanilla exhale. Best Buy. 86 ico; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). The abv: 40% Price: $25 lively, assertive scent channels jalapeño and bell peppers. The palate echoes that verdant note, hint- Hiatus Blanco Tequila (Mexico; MHW Ltd, ing at jalapeño and green olive brine, plus a plastic- 89 Manhasset, NY). Distinctive sweet, earthy like note, finishing brisk and mouthwatering. aromas suggest cacao and ripe banana. The palate abv: 40% Price: $21 echoes those luscious notes very faintly, leading into a brisk, mildly spiced finish. abv: 40% Price: $44

Patrón Silver Tequila (Mexico; Patrón Spirits, 89 Las Vegas, NV). The aroma is zesty, with hints of dried herbs. The citrusy, piquant palate introduces jalapeño and lemon peel, fading grace- fully into a honey and black pepper-accented exit. abv: 40% Price: $60

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sweet, wholly delightful malt-forward lager. Drink it by the mugful and notes of roasted nuts, sweet red fruit, spicy hop and the faintest bit of caramel all mingle together in harmony. BEER abv: 5.4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack Dark lagers on the rise Jack’s Abby Smoke & Dagger (German- 92 style Rauchbier; Jack’s Abby Brewing, MA). There’s a well-worn whiff of campfire smoke, like here’s been a renewed interest in the A doppelbock (sometimes called double a sleeping bag pulled out of storage following the lager category as of late. This is a glori- bock) is, as the name would suggest, a bigger last camping trip, that emerges from the glass. It’s ous thing because it highlights a few key version of a bock beer. Higher in alcohol, around soft, familiar and welcoming. Dark ruddy brown in ­developments concerning the current 8% abv, it’s heartier and warming, with rich color, with a caramel highlight, this lager has all the brewingT industry. notes of toffee, stewed fruits and roasted nuts. crispness and breadiness the style demands, with a mouthcoating richness from the smoked malt. The The first is that consumers want small- Often these are released as seasonal beers in the brewer’s restraint and respect for ingredients is on batch, crisp, clear, flavorful lagers that cele- colder months, although there are some well full display with this lager. brate the four main ingredients regarded, year-round options. abv: 5.6% Price: $10/16 oz 6 pack in beer and deliver in a refresh- Then there’s schwarzbiers, ing manner. Second is that the Brewers are or simply black lagers. These Tröegs Trogenator (Doppelbock; Tröegs Brewing, PA). It’s hard not to notice the craft brewers in America now have all the hallmarks of the tra- 92 branching out and boozy warmth that comes from this strong lager. have the bandwidth, talent and bringing back some ditional German lager style, but Embrace it and let it do its thing. Deep bronze in ability to make lagers alongside styles of beer that with an addition of dark malt. color, with an off-white head that fades quickly, this the ales that have typically been Low in abv and built for long is filled with toasted caramel, bread crust, sweet the preferred category. Third, have been sidelined drinking sessions, they are also nuts and vinous flavors that create an almost liq- uid fruit-cake experience. An earthy hop bitterness and maybe most important, misunderstood by many drink- for too long. on the finish provides a bite that counters the malt it means brewers are branch- ers, especially those who claim sweetness. ing out beyond the well-known they “don’t like dark beers.” abv: 8.2% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack light pilsners and lagers and bringing back some Alexandra Nowell, the director of brew- styles of beer that have been sidelined for too ing operations at Three Weavers Brewing in Exhibit A Focal Point (Munich-style Dunkel; Exhibit A Brewing, MA). This visually stun- long. With that in mind, now’s the time to dis- Los Angeles, noted that the term schwarzbier 91 ning beer shows a beautifully clear garnet color, cover the several categories of dark lager. wasn’t connecting with customers. So they with a robust nearly-tan head that laces the glass. It A dunkel is on the lighter shade of dark, started calling their selection a “black lager” carries aromas of country bread, sweet berry, earthy often in the 4–5% abv range, with flavors of and sales suddenly picked up. There’s some- funk and a hint of citrus. As it warms, a slight smo- caramel and breadcrust. It’s the kind of beer thing to be said for easy to understand names. kiness from peat malt arrives on the palate. This is a lager made for the days when the sun sets early and that invokes the thought of “liquid bread.” Cheers! —John Holl a little warmth is needed. It is hearty and comfort- ing without being boozy. abv: 5% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

Burial Hellstar Dark Lager (European-style Notch Cerné Pivo (European-style Dark slow cooked beef and root vegetable . Merchant 90 Dark Lager; Burial Brewing, NC). This is 94 Lager; Notch Brewing, MA). This brewery du Vin. robust and full bodied, with aromas and flavors of cares about tradition and process, so it’s no sur- abv: 5% Price: $4 / 25 oz coffee, chocolate and toasted bread crust. With a prise that this black lager is the closest thing to creamy mouthfeel that finishes easy and almost dry, what you’d get in Bavaria without having to leave New Realm Munich Dunkel (Dunkel, New this is the kind of lager you could give to someone New England. It’s light and crisp, with just a hint of 93 Realm Brewing, GA). This has all the hall- who claims that they “don’t like dark beers” and roasted coffee and an earthy hop bitterness. The low marks of a well-made lager, with just the slight- it would likely change their mind. Sessionable and abv makes this an ideal session beer for just about est bit of dark malt sweetness typical of the style. made for pub drinking, the roast notes keep your any occasion. It’s smooth, refreshing and thought There’s a crispness but also a rustic, bready char- palate interested but still allow your mind to wan- provoking. acter that comes through in this chestnut colored der where it wants. abv: 4.5% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack beer. It shows tones of nuts, caramel and a hint of abv: 5% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack toffee, with a subtle pleasing hop bite. It’s made to Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel (Munich-style be drunk from a stein and brings on good cheer. Cerebral Cryptic Message (Schwarzbier; 93 Dunkel; Ayinger, Germany). This shows a abv: 5.3% Price: $6/14 oz 90 Cerebral Brewing, CO). As the name sug- lovely combination of worn leather, sweet tobacco, gests, there’s a lot to look for and unravel in this dried sweet cherry and a dusting of chocolate. It’s Exile G.G. (Munich-style Dunkel, Exile Brew- beer. It’s heartier than most in this category, with desert in a glass that won’t weigh you down. With 92 ing, IA). Close your eyes after taking a big only a slight crispness and a pronounced sweet- effervescent carbonation that keeps each sip lively, swallow and you can almost imagine the German ness. It shows slight hints of orange and earth to this well-crafted lager remains crisp from start beer hall where this should be served. Big trays of lift it up. A Foeder Schwarzbier aged on wood, there to finish and shows a -like depth woven sausage, jars of spicy mustard and baskets of pum- is a dry tea-like finish that creates a pleasing bit- throughout. It would be a wonderful pairing with a pernickel bread should accompany this slightly terness. With each new sip, the crispness of the

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2020 lager refreshes the palate before leaving some burnt chocolate and dark roast coffee behind. abv: 5.1% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

Stella Artois Midnight Lager (European- 90 style Dark Lager, Stella Artois, Belgium). At first there’s a lot going on. It’s chalky and ashy, verg- ing on the malt content of a brown ale or porter. It finishes thin. However, as it builds, there’s a black malt bitterness that is a thread throughout the whole drinking experience. A special, limited addi- tion from the global brewer’s recognizable brand, if this is an introduction to the style for most, it’s a welcome one. AB InBev. abv: 5.4% Price: $18/12 oz 12 pack

Sterling Pig Le Cochon Noir (Schwarzbier; 89 Sterling Pig Brewery, PA). Medium bodied with a smoky roast note, this is the kind of dark lager that demands to be on a table with a lot of food, specifically, barbecue or any summer cook- out staples. There are light touches of coffee and chocolate and the smoke character builds as the glass empties. It’s not quite warming in the winter months, but served out of an icy cooler in the sum- mer, it’ll hit the spot. abv: 5.2% Price: $35/12 oz 12 pack

Ratio Darklands (Dark Lager; Ratio Beer- 88 works, CO). With an assertive bitterness and slight metallic twang, this dark lager is light in body, with a softness that invites repeat sips. An earthy hop character meets with a touch of pine to create a solid base on the finish. Think of this as the hop lover’s dark lager. abv: 6.3% Price: $10/32 oz

Firetrucker Von Black (European-style Dark 86 Lager; Firetrucker Brewery, IA). Notes of sweet cola, caramel and butterscotch round out this lager. A fine accompaniment to a pub burger or a loaded baked potao, it would bring a touch of roasti- ness to the meal. abv: 5.3% Price: $5/16 oz

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