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JOURNAL AND GAZETEER OF THE JOURNEY MADE BY MR JAQ. THIERRY JUNIOR AND WILLEM SCHELLINKS through i. England 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Holland

etc Containing besides their Experiences, clear and accurate notes, of all that has been seen and heard by them in the Kingdoms, Republics, States and Regions Between the 14 July 1661, and the 24 August 1665.

[Translation of original title page of MSS]

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X INTRODUCTION i. William Schellinks: Painter, Draughtsman, Etcher and Poet

William Schellinks, the author1 of the Journal edited below, was born in in 1623s an<^ &ed there in 1678. As a visual artist he flourished from c. 1642 to his deadi. So he lived and worked in the golden age of Dutch : the third quarter of the seventeenth century, a period notable for such renowned artists as Rembrandt, Frans Hals, Vermeer and Jan Steen. This could be one reason why he is not well known, another may be that much of his best output, drawings in ink, crayon and wash, was locked away in the Van der Hem Atlas (see ii below) and hardly seen by anyone. In 1646 he travelled in France with a fellow artist Lambert Doomer and made many drawings there. He apparently kept a diary even then, which enabled him to write a journal of the trip some twenty years later (see iv below). In July 1661 he set out, in some style, with the merchant shipowner Jaques Thierry and the latter's young son, also Jaques or Jacobi, then thirteen years old, from Amsterdam for England. This was the start of a for Thierry junior, also covering France, Italy, Sicily, Malta, Germany and Switzerland, accompanied throughout by Schellinks, who again made many drawings, mostly of a topographical nature. The two returned to Holland in August 1665. Two years after his return to Amsterdam, Schellinks married the well- to-do widow of another fellow artist Dancker Danckerts. Works by Schellinks are widely spread in museums and collections. The British Museum has 16 of his drawings,3 but by far the largest number is in the Van der Hem Atlas. The English drawings in the Atlas were studied by Hulton for the Walpole Society,4 those made in southern Italy, Sicily and Malta, by Aikema.5 Both give much biographical material on the artist. No catalogue of his work seems to exist, but a good idea of the value and variety of his oeuvre can be obtained from the Annual Art Index and Art Review. Two of his better known subjects of oil-, which show his

1 The frontispiece of the Journal gives the name Jaq. Thierry junior' before that of Schellinks, but we have found no evidence that Thierry was a co-author. 2 Most artists' dictionaries give Schellinks's birthdate as 1627, following A.D. de Vries, Willem Schellinks-Teekenaar-Etser-Dichter, in Oud Holland I, 1883. Dudok van Heel of the Amsterdam City Archives confirmed his baptism as 2 February 1623. 3 Edward Croft Murray and Paul Hulton, Catabgw of British Drawings in the British Museum (cited as ECM) Vol I, i960. 4 Paul H. Hulton, Drawings of England in the Seventeenth Century by William Schellinks, Jacob Esselens and Lambert Doomer in Walpole Society 35, 1959. 5 Bernard Aikema and others, Vtaggio al Sud, 1664—1665 Willem Schellinks, Rome 1983.

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X 2 JOURNAL OF WILLIAM SGHELLINKS IN ENGLAND talent and incidentally the change in relations between England and Holland after the Restoration, are worth mentioning. The first is of the embarkation of Charles II at Scheveningen for England in 1660, a large canvas 83 x 116cm, painted on commission for Jonas Witsen, a member of an influential Amsterdam family; it demonstrates the contemporary enthusiasm in Holland for the Stuarts. The original is said to be in the collection of Count Wachmeister.6 An engraving was later made of this picture. The second shows the scene in 1667, when England and Holland were at war and the Dutch fleet entered the Medway and burnt most of the English fleet. ScheUinks had made several drawings of the area (see Appendix I) when he was there in 1661. From these he produced several oil-paintings, four of which are in Amsterdam7 and several versions in pen, wash, and crayon; two of these (c. 50 x 150cm) are in the Atlas. There are three more in the British Museum, one of them a rough sketch. There are also engravings by Romeyn de Hooghe and Stoopendaal, reproduced in several works.8 like many of his fellow artists at the time, ScheUinks, in his youth, indulged in writing poetry. Some of this, including much of Schellinks's was collected and published. De Vries9 quotes eight such collections of the years 1654/5, wnen ScheUinks was in his early twenties, some under the title 'De koddige olipodrigo' [the droU hotchpotch].10 Some of these are illustrated with Schellinks's engravings. The poems themselves are not highly regarded. The earliest known mention of Schellinks's Journal is in Houbraken's Groote Schouburgh (1718), a coUection of biographies of Dutch painters." This tells us very little about ScheUinks the artist, but fortunately Houbraken saw and was fascinated by the Journal, then in the possession of a collector, Arnold van Halen (see iv below). He gives an extract of what he judged to be of interest to his readers: for England he picks three places in London and one college each in Oxford and Cambridge. He does not mention the Atlas and probably did not know about it. De Vries, in 1883, provided a useful biography of ScheUinks; he knew about the Atlas in Vienna, and about the Journal, but he did not know where this was, expressing the hope that it would be rediscovered one day.

6 U. Thierae and F. Becker, Allgemeines Lexicon dsr bildenden Kunstler. Vol 30. Leipzig 1930. Another version was sold in New York in 1935. 7 See Laurence J. Bol, Die HoUdndische Marinemalerei des iy. Jahrhunderts, Brunswick, 1973, 297-9. Information from Gregory Rubinstein. 8 e.g. Gerard Brandt, 'Mkhkl de Ruiter1 (1687). 9 de Vries, p. 157-9. 10 From Spanish 'Olla Podrida', a kind of stew. 11 (1661-1721), De Groote Schouburgh der Nederlandsche Konstchilders en Schilderessen, Amsterdam 1718/21. Reprint ed. P.T.A. Swillens, Maastricht 1943. It is a continuation of Karel van Mander's Schilder-boeck, 1604.

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X INTRODUCTION 3 Schellinks arrived in England just a year after the Restoration, a momentous event, enthusiastically welcomed in the Dutch Republic, where it was hoped that the good relations which had resulted from the dynastic link between the Houses of Stuart and Orange, by the marriage of Mary Stuart and William II of Orange in 1641 (see Appendix II) would be fully restored. These good relations had suffered during the Commonwealth, when England challenged the rapidly growing domination of trade and shipping by Dutch merchants, result- ing in the first Dutch war.'2 Schellinks had that war very much in mind when he arrived seven years after its end and referred to it many times in his Journal. He recorded the captured Dutch ships he saw, now incorporated in the English navy, noting their original names, where they were captured and sometimes the captain at the time.'3 He referred to the then ruinous palace at Greenwich, where Dutch prisoners of war were kept, many of whom he says died there as a result of deprivation.'4 But all this and other bad things he noted such as the neglected buildings, the damage to church ornaments and other structures, are blamed on Cromwell.'5 He expresses no anti-English feelings: now that the King had been restored all that was in the past. But Schellinks carefully recorded the fortifications, armaments, strength and weakness, access, condition etc. of the fortresses he visited and the new and old warships which he saw. Many of the drawings which he made concerned harbours, shipping, naval bases and fortifications. Three years after Schellinks left England the two nations were again at war, and de Ruyter entered the Medway and burned all shipping there and the guns of the battle were clearly heard in London. Schellinks's travels in England cover a period of notable events and great change: the marriage of the King to Catharine of Braganza, the re-establishment of the Episcopal Church, the Act of Uniformity, the revival of public entertainment (the Lord Mayor's Show, the theatre with the restoration comedies, bear baiting and wrestling), and also the trials and public executions of the regicides and of other 'traitors', and real or imagined uprisings against the throne. All of these Schellinks described accurately in his Journal, as comparison with the diaries of Pepys and Evelyn and other contemporary sources shows, and in a

12 The first Anglo-Dutch war, 1652—1654, with several sea battles in one of which the Dutch Admiral Tromp was killed; the blockade of the Dover Straits greatly damaged Dutch Trade. The Treaty of Westminster, signed April 1654, was considered lenient to the Dutch. 13 See Journal 21 July 1661, 18 September 1662. 14 See Journal 14 August 1661 and text-note 21. 15 See Journal e.g. Colchester 18 July, Canterbury 12 August, Greenwich 14 August, Charing Cross 17 August 1661, etc.

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X 4 JOURNAL OF WILLIAM SCHELLINKS IN ENGLAND lively manner, especially where they are his own personal experiences. He was obviously very interested in pageantry, witnessing the Lord Mayor's Show in 1661 (when he and his companions travelled specially from Kent to see it), and again in 1662; in his description of these ceremonies he added to his own observations extracts from the pro- ceedings of the event, printed at the time.'6 When he related the history of a town or building, he must have used sources such as Stowe's Survey of London. We have noted these sources if found, but in some cases we have not been successful. Hulton says that the descriptions of Salisbury Cathedral and Falmouth harbour 'echo Camden','7 we find that Schellinks says more than Camden about Falmouth, and Camden more than Schellinks about Salisbury. Schellinks and Camden both have the information about the number of windows, pillars and gates in Salisbury Cathedral (4 September 1662) and the number of ships which can be accommodated in Falmouth harbour (21 August 1662), both from Latin rhymes current at the time mentioned by Camden. Schellinks describes some of the industries he saw in England: the fishing and processing of pilchards and the mining and smelting of tin (14 August 1662), the culture of oysters (19 October 1662), and the minting of coinage (28 March 1663). His description of the processes are confirmed as accurate by contemporary sources quoted in the notes to the translation. Most seventeenth-century visitors to England did not travel much further than London, Oxford and Cambridge, perhaps Stonehenge, and if on the way, Canterbury; Schellinks and Thierry went further, to Land's End and King's Lynn. This brings us to the purpose of the journey, which has been suggested as twofold: to make topographical drawings on commission for Van der Hem, and for the education of young Jacobi Thierry. As to the first suggestion, we doubt whether he was instructed by Van der Hem (see below ii). The Journal makes it clear that Jaques Thierry senior, a substantial merchant, organised the journey and probably financed it. He wanted to introduce his young son Jacobi to his family in England and to his business associates there, and to start him off on a 'grand tour' accompanied by a person with some experience of foreign travel. So he crossed over with them in July 1661 and stayed for two months. In that period he saw his son accepted into the family of his friend, Sir Arnold Braems, who lived in great style on his country estate at Bridge (near Canterbury),'8 travelled with

16 See Journal 8 November 1661 and 7-8 November 1662, text-notes 59 and 220. 17 Hulton, p. xvii. 18 See text-note 16. For a history of Bridge Place see Malcolm Pinham, Lesser Known Buildings, Bridge Place, Kent, in Blackmanbury, August-October 1968.

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X INTRODUCTION 5 him to London to meet his brother and other relatives, attended to his business there and in Dover, before returning to Holland via Ostend, leaving Schellinks and his son with the Braems family, with whom they stayed for three months. Whilst Thierry senior was in England, Schellinks seems to act as his secretary, faithfully recording his master's movements, even when he did not accompany him, and he had time to do a number of drawings around Dover (see Appendix I). The great interest shown by Schellinks in fortifications and military installations, to which the two Dutchmen obtained access with surprising ease in spite of the recent war and increasing rivalry between the two nations, has led to the suggestion that he was working for Dutch military intelligence. This possibility cannot be ignored: the Journal often bears witness to this interest in military affairs, describing in some detail the strength and weaknesses of fortresses, their armaments and garrisons (e.g. Plymouth, 11-14 August 1662). We do not believe however that spying was his object; as Hulton points out, Schellinks's drawings of the Medway cannot have been of great value in planning the Dutch raid in 1667. We think it more likely that Schellinks's easy access everywhere shows the respect in which Jaques Thierry senior was held: English by birth, a merchant of substance, with widespread contacts. In choosing what to describe in England Schellinks seems to have in mind the interest of his master.

ii. Schellinks and the Van der Hem Atlas19

Some 120 of Schellinks's drawings are incorporated in the famous Van der Hem Atlas, now one of the most prized possessions of the National Library in Vienna. This monumental work of fifty volumes, each c. 56 x 38cm, was put together by (1621-78), a member of a distinguished Amsterdam family.20 His father Ysbrant was a prosperous merchant there, who married the daughter of a then well- known Dutch poet Hendrick Laurensz Spiegel. Laurens's uncle married

19 Since completion of this section an exhibition devoted to the Van der Hem Atlas was staged in the summer of 1992 in the Royal Palace, Amsterdam, where two volumes and 23 drawings from the original Adas in Vienna were displayed, augmented with much contemporary material: Een Wereldreizer op papier, De Atlas van Laurens Van der Hem 1621- 1678 (Stichting Koninklijk Paleis, Amsterdam, 1992), with an historical introduction by Roelof van Gelder. 20 Most information on Van der Hem and his Atlas is extracted from Hulton 1959; Karl Ausseren, 'Der Adas Blaeu der Wiener National Bibliothek', Beitrage zur Historischen Geographic ... , Vienna 1929; Gustaf Solar, Jan Hackaert: die Schweiser Ansichten 1652-56, Zurich 1981, and Aikema 1983. See also Roelof van Gelder 1992.

Downloaded from https://www.cambridge.org/core. IP address: 170.106.35.229, on 25 Sep 2021 at 00:30:48, subject to the Cambridge Core terms of use, available at https://www.cambridge.org/core/terms. https://doi.org/10.1017/S096011630000004X