27 ID EBRUARY M -F 2008 Ohio’s Country Journal LIVESTOCK Wagyu cattle allow Luneborg to set his own market price BY KYLE SHARP imported in 1993-94. Today, no live When Vic and Paulette Luneborg Wagyu cattle are being imported from first bought their 200-acre farm in Japan, but some are coming into the Highland County north of Hillsboro country from Australia, Luneborg said. about 20 years ago, a herd of commer- Luneborg chose Wagyu because their cial cattle came with it. scarcity in the United States and genetic Vic’s only prior farm experience was tendency to produce very tender, highly helping on his grandparents’ 80-acre marbled beef — called Kobe beef — would farm as a child. Since his youth, allow him to set his own, premium price Luneborg had opened his own insurance for his animals, particularly if he concen- company in Washington Courthouse. trated on selling breeding stock. He also Initially, he leased out the Highland chose to market breeding stock because he County land and commuted from neigh- couldn’t produce enough Kobe beef to boring Fayette County to help the meet the needs of a restaurant. farm’s previous owner with the cattle “I get calls from all around asking for and learn how to raise them. It wasn’t meat — probably 2 to 1 the requests are long before Luneborg realized he wasn’t for meat — and I just say ‘sorry,’” Vic Luneborg raises Wagyu cattle on his 200-acre farm, interested in the typical beef cattle mar- Luneborg said. “We don’t do any freezer Clear Creek Farms, north of Hillsboro in Highland County. The rare breed of cattle originates from Japan keting arrangement. beef. But a lot of people want that, and and, according to genetic testing, produces the most “I hated going to the sale barn and most of the people we’ve sold breeding tender and best-marbled beef in the world. having people tell me what they would stock to are doing some of that.” give for my cattle,” he said. “I wanted The big selling point with Wagyu is Wagyu,” Luneborg said. “Most Angus something where I could have more con- meat quality, and Kobe beef is the hot have up to four stars, and Wagyu can trol and set my own prices. Farmers do item among high-end beef consumers at obtain all 14.” things backward compared to the rest of the moment, he said. For example, at Hair samples are taken from all of the world, as far as the capitalistic sys- Mitchell’s Steakhouse in Columbus, a Luneborg’s cattle and genetically tested tem goes. They have no control over regular 16-ounce New York strip steak is by GeneStar. He plans his breeding to their own pricing.” $35, while a 9-ounce New York strip of achieve the most stars possible. So Luneborg began researching Kobe beef is on the menu for $160. A Each of these three bulls has a story to tell. The 2- “All animals have their markers on options, and after about a year he deter- branded program is under development year-old on the left was sold for more than $4,000 to a file, so we know exactly what we’re mined his future in the cattle business to certify Kobe beef is offered as adver- farm in Louisville, Ky., via a phone call on the day this doing on the breeding process. We’re picture was taken. The bull in the middle is Luneborg’s would be with the Wagyu breed, which tised to consumers. shooting for at least 12 to 13 stars out of 5-year-old herd bull that is 100% Wagyu. The one on originated from Japan. “Wagyu are like any other cow, but 10% of our calf crop or better,” he said. the right is a 2-year-old that Luneborg intends to keep The word Wagyu refers to all Japanese they produce the most tender, tasty beef “We have done away with progeny as a herd bull. It is 90% Wagyu and boasts 10 out of 14 beef cattle — “Wa” means Japanese or in the world,” Luneborg said. “They are stars on the GeneStar test for tenderness and quality (EPDs) entirely and go strictly with Japanese-style and “gyu” means cattle. highly marbled compared to other grade, or marbling, including two of the most rare genetics because it’s an exact science.” According to information on the breeds, and most people buying bulls are genetic markers. There are only two 14-star animals on American Wagyu Association Web site, using them to breed with Angus cattle so record, both Wagyu, and this spring most Wagyu cattle were influenced by they can get more marbling.” their scarcity, some buyers want them Luneborg hopes to either buy one or British and Continental breeds for a few Genetic testing using the registered prior to breeding age to ensure they get obtain semen from one for artificial generations nearly 100 years ago. Brown trademark GeneStar system for Quality one, Luneborg said. They bring about insemination. Swiss, Shorthorn, Devon, Simmental, Grade (QG), or marbling, and Tenderness $4,000, depending on their quality, and “We haven’t done AI for years,” he Ayrshire, Korean, Holstein and Angus (T) backs this claim. Using the system, a the price will go up some next year. said. “We use natural breeding because impacted modern Wagyu. beef animal can rate as high as 14 stars, All the females remain on the farm as it’s easier on us and the animals.” Two types of Wagyu cattle developed, with four QG genes and three T genes replacement animals until they are Currently, two bulls are used at Blacks and Reds. The original import of each expressing two genetic markers. “culled” at 7 years old. At that point, Luneborg’s Clear Creek Farms, and the these cattle to the United States in 1976 The system rates an animal with one star they are sold as bred animals for about herd is separated into two groups to avoid consisted of two Black Wagyu and two for each marker present. $2,800 to buyers who typically can breed line breeding and expand genetic diversity. Red Wagyu bulls. That was the only U.S. “According to my GeneStar rep, no them for another three to four years. Luneborg bought his first Wagyu cat- importation of Wagyu until 40 more were breed can equal the number of stars as All animals are raised exclusively on tle about 15 years ago at a herd dispersal grass, with a protein block in the winter sale in Texas. Five cows and one bull and mineral block in the summer. Calving made the trip back to Ohio. All the ani- takes place from roughly March 15 to May mals were Black Wagyu, which is all 1, and calves are tagged the day they are Luneborg has ever raised because the born in order to begin their records. About market prefers them over Reds. mid May, calves are wormed and vaccinat- Luneborg sold his insurance company ed, and hair samples are pulled for genetic and “retired” to the farm permanently in testing, which costs $65 per animal 2003. He regularly builds the herd up to through GeneStar. Genetic results usually 120 animals, the most the farm can sup- are returned in June. port, then sells back down to about 65, Luneborg considers genetic improve- which is where the numbers currently ment his biggest challenge, because his stand. The current 65 Wagyu consist of market niche depends on it. At the same 20 breeding-age cows and the rest time, it’s also his biggest enjoyment. replacement heifers, young bulls and the “I enjoy the challenge of the genetics two herd bulls. and getting people who call wanting to Luneborg has about 65 Wagyu cattle on his farm this year, including 20 cows of breeding age. The rest are Breeding animals are sold all over the buy good genetics,” he said. “It’s fun replacement heifers, young bulls and bulls he uses for natural breeding. The most cattle his farm can support is United States. Bulls typically are sold as being able to provide some of the best about 120 animals. 1.5- to 2-year-olds, although because of genetics available.”