Turismo De Granada

useful info useful info bono turístico

1 3 5 7 from the Cathedral from the Alhambra from the Sacromonte and there’s still more verás más see more

card and Generalife SACROMONTE ABBEY ROYAL HOSPITAL Official guide CATHEDRAL card • Camino del Sacromonte s/n. • Gran Vía 5. • Cuesta del Hospicio s/n. vedrai di ALHAMBRA Y GENERALIFE • T. 958 221 445. • T. 958 222 959. • T. 958 243 025. City of Granada • Information: 902 441 221. • Bus: 34 (the nearest stop is a 15 min. • City Sightseeing Bus. card • Alhambra and ROYAL CHAPEL walk away) più mehr • Oficios 3. Generalife Board: +34 958 027 900. HUERTA DE SAN VICENTE MUSEUM OF GIPSY WOMEN • T. 958 227 848. HOUSE–MUSEUM OF FEDERICO GARCÍA LORCA Ticket sale • Camino del Sacromonte s/n. • www.capillarealgranada.com • Virgen Blanca s/n sehen • Tel. no. booking (from Spain): 902 881 001. • T. 625 453 993. (Parque Federico García Lorca). JOSÉ GUERRERO CENTRE • From abroad: +34 934 923 750. • T. 958 258 466. SACROMONTE INTERPRETATION CENTRE • Oficios 8. card • www.huertadesanvicente.com en voir plus MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS • Barranco de los Negros s/n. • T. 958 225 185. • Bus 6. • Palacio de Carlos V. • T. 958 215 120. • www.centroguerrero.org card • T. 958 575 450. • www.sacromontegranada.com MONASTERIO DE LA CARTUJA verá mais CORRAL DEL CARBÓN • www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/museos • Monasterio de la Cartuja s/n. • Bus 35 (31 and 32 only up to the • Mariana Pineda s/n. • T. 958 161 932. MUSEUM OF THE ALHAMBRA entrance to the Sacromonte, stop • T. 958 225 990. • Bus 8. • Palacio de Carlos V. Peso de la Harina). card • T. 958 027 900/958 027 929. MONASTERY OF SAN JERÓNIMO • www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/museos • Rector López Argüeta 9. • www.alhambra-patronato.es 2 • T. 958 279 337 • Bus 5. from Plaza Nueva • Bus 30, 32, 34 and Bus City Sightseeing. 6 from the Realejo card EL BAÑUELO [THE ARAB BATHS] SCIENCE PARK MUSEUM • Carrera del Darro 31. CARMEN DE LOS MÁRTIRES • Avenida del Mediterráneo s/n. granada • T. 958 229 738. • Paseo de los Mártires. • T. 958 131 900. • T. 958 227 953. card card 4 • www.parqueciencias.com ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM from the Albaicín • Bus 1 and 5 • Carrera del Darro 43. RODRÍGUEZ–ACOSTA FOUNDATION (Parque de las Ciencias stop). • T. 958 225 603. PALACE OF DAR–AL–HORRA AND GÓMEZ–MORENO INSTITUTE • Bus 4, 10 and 11 ALHAMBRA AND GENERALIFE + CATHEDRAL + ROYAL CHAPEL • www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/ • Callejón de las Monjas. • Callejón Niños del Rollo 8. (Parque de las Américas stop). museos • T. 958 027 806. • T. 958 227 497. + MONASTERY OF LA CARTUJA + MONASTERY OF SAN JERÓNIMO + SCIENCE PARK MUSEUM + FINE ARTS MUSEUM • www.fundacionrodriguezacosta.com MUSEUM MEMORY OF ANDALUSIA + ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM PLUS CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS MUSEUM OF SAINT JOHN OF GOD MONASTERY OF SANTA ISABEL LA REAL Avenida del Mediterráneo 2. (5 DAY CARD ONLY) + CITY PUBLIC TRANSPORT + DISCOUNTS (CASA DE LOS PISA) • Santa Isabel la Real 15. HOUSE–MUSEUM OF MANUEL DE FALLA • T. 958 222 257. ON GUIDED TOURS THROUGH THE CITY + DISCOUNT ON • Convalecencia 1 (opposite the • Guided visit. Telephone reservation needed. • Antequeruela Alta 11. • www.memoriadeandalucia.es DIFFERENT ESTABLISHMENTS IN GRANADA Church of Santa Ana, Plaza Nueva). Please phone: Fundación Albaicín: • T. 958 222 188. • Bus 1 and 5 • T. 958 222 144/958 227 448. +34 958 200 688. • www.museomanueldefalla.com (Parque de las Ciencias stop). • www.sanjuandedios-oh.es CARMEN DE LA VICTORIA ARCHIVE MANUEL DE FALLA • Bus 4, 10 and 11 discounts save up info and sale (Parque de las Américas stop). on several to 30% 902 100 095 • Bus 31, 32 and 35. • Cuesta del Chapiz 9. • Centro Cultural Manuel de Falla, tourist services • T. 958 223 122. Paseo de los Mártires. in comparison www.bonoturisticogranada.com in the city. to buying • www.ugr.es • T. 958 228 318. Tourist information offices single tickets. www.granadatur.com • www.manueldefalla.com CASAS DEL CHAPIZ Municipal Tourist card (SCHOOL OF ARABIC STUDIES) CASA DE LOS TIROS MUSEUM Information Office • Cuesta del Chapiz 22. • Pavaneras 19. Plaza del Carmen s/n. Visit included in the Granada Card. • T. 958 222 290. • T. 958 221 072. T. 902 405 045. • www.eea.csic.es • www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/museos www.granadatur.com

MAX MOREAU CARMEN–MUSEUM • Bus 30, 32 and 34 (access to the Tourist Reception Centre • Camino nuevo de San Nicolás 12. upper Realejo). Virgen Blanca 9. • T. 958 293 310. • Bus 23 (access to the lower Realejo). T. 902 405 045. www.granadatur.com CHURCH OF EL SALVADOR • Plaza de Abad 2. Plaza Mariana Pineda 10 • T. 958 278 644. T. 958 247 128. Municipal Tourist Citysightseeing Bus www.turismodegranada.org www.granadatour.com • Bus 31, 32 and 35. Information Office Plaza del Carmen s/n, 18071 Granada Santa Ana 4 (next to Plaza Nueva) T. 958 575 202. T. 902 405 045 this.is:granada www.andalucia.org [email protected] Audioguide service Pick–up point: kiosk at Plaza Nueva Alhambra Tourist Reception Centre (next to the Alhambra bus stop)

(Entrance building, opposite Gr 2.787–2010. legal: Depósito Ciudad de Granada. Turismo de Granada. © Ayuntamiento SCA. Traducciones Adtrad Translation: Juande Jarillo. Manigua. Photographs: design and production: Concept, Virgen Blanca 9, 18071 Granada T. +34 958 210 239 www.thisis.ws the ticket office). T. 902 405 045 FOR GREATER CONVENIENCE SkIppING ThE QUEUE T. 958 229 575. Three tips for seeing www.andalucia.org [email protected] Hop on the City Sightseeing bus, Buy your Granada Card, which Granada sit back and enjoy the sights. includes admission to ten of the most interesting monuments AT YOUR LEISURE www.granadatour.com in Granada, a booking for the The audioguides will be your best companion around the city. Alhambra and ten bus journeys. this.is: granada www.granadatur.com ALL UP–TO–DATE INFORMATION AT www.granadatur.com T. 958 210 239. www.bonoturistico www.thisis.ws granada.com U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U U

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7 and there’s still more

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GRACIA ESCUELA DE SAN ANTÓN JARDINES

HORNO DE HAZA T ARQUITECTOS DEL VIOLÓN PASEO TÉCNICOS ESTACIÓN DE TREN MORAL FACULTAD 31. Centro Europeo B T BIBLIOTECA DE ANDALUCÍA DE TRADUCTORES ABEN HUMEYA PASEO DE SAN SEBASTIÁN FILMOTECA DE ANDALUCÍA CANALES de las Mujeres AFÁN DE RIBERA PINTOR SORIA E INTÉRPRETES Mariana Pineda PROFESOR SÁINZ CARRIL DEL PICÓN VERÓNICA DE LA MAGDALENA PLAZA PROFESOR TIERNO GALVÁN SAN JOSÉ BAJA ROTARY P ESCUELA TÉCNICA SUPERIOR P SUCESO BUEN T DE INGENIEROS DE CAMINOS MARQUÉS VÉLEZ Palacio T NUEVA DE SAN ANTÓN de Exposiciones y Congresos Open doors To the past. To the future. To fusion. To mix. To the north. To the south. To the stars. To history. To the cutting edge. To the night. To the horizon. To adventure. To contemplation. To the body. To the mind. To fun. To culture.

Open all year. Open to the world.

Welcome The story of a name or a name for history

5th CENTURY B.C.: the Turduli founded Elybirge. 2nd CENTURY B.C.: the Romans settled in Florentia Iliberitana. 1st CENTURY: according to tradition, San Cecilio, the patron saint of the city, Christianised Iliberis. 7th CENTURY: the Visigoths fortified Iliberia. 8th CENTURY: the Arabs arrived in Ilvira. 11th CENTURY: the Zirids moved their capital to Medina Garnata. 15th CENTURY: Boabdil surrendered the keys of Granada to the Catholic Monarchs.

Today, we still call this city Granada which, over its 25 century–history, has been the pride of all those who lived in it, defended it, those who lost it and those who won it. 25 centuries of inhabitants have given the city, apart from its different names, its multicultural nature, its diversity of monuments, religious and secular works of art, its roots and its sights and sounds only to be found in Granada. Iberians, Romans, Arabs, Jews and Christians have all considered this Granada to be their own, this Granada that is today the embodiment of diversity and harmonious coexistence. Since the 19th century, Granada has also been the perfect setting for those romantic travellers that had years on end free: the American Washington Irving, with his Tales of the Alhambra (1832), captivated writers, artists and musicians of his generation, telling them about that “fiercely magnificent” place that also fascinated Victor Hugo and Chateaubriand. And so Granada was reborn as a somewhat mythical place, a blend of history and legend, an essential destination for travellers from every continent. The very same Granada that saw Manuel de Falla and Federico García Lorca organising a flamenco contest attended by the most outstanding intellectuals of the time. The same city that was considered home and headquarters of the Spanish poetic Generation of ‘27. And the same Granada that today leaves its doors wide open to welcome hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. Proud of its past. And looking to the future. Granada Is the Alhambra… and also the Albaicín, the Sacromonte, the Realejo, the Cathedral, the surrounding area… Granada is the night, flamenco, tapas, history and the modern age. Granada is much more than you might imagine. This guide offers you seven different routes covering all the city’s best spots, so that you can choose your starting point and enjoy your visit without missing a thing. Es Granada

from the Cathedral (4) from Plaza Nueva (8) from the Alhambra and Generalife (12) from the Albaicín (18) from the Sacromonte (22) from the Realejo (24) and there’s still more (27) 4

from the Cathedral

card Visit included The Cathedral in the Granada Card The Cathedral is located almost at the exact centre of the city, making it the perfect point to start a walk around the heart of Granada. In 1501 the Catholic Monarchs ordered it to be built as a symbol of Christianity (and in an attempt to be on a par with the spectacular Moorish monuments they so admired on entering Granada) on the exact site of the Great Mosque. It offers a mixture of styles: its design was Gothic, it was built in the Renaissance style, and the façade (an Alonso Cano masterpiece) is Baroque. Part of its character lies in the columns along the nave. They are so huge to the human eye that they arouse more amazement than meditation. by Alonso Cano by Alonso Conception Immaculate

15th century on the left, 21st century on the right Just a step or two away from the Flemish tableaux in the Royal Chapel (by Van der Weyden and Memling, among others) we find the José Guerrero Centre. This art gallery is housed in a modern building and displays the works of this contemporary Granada artist. In Granada, you can skip from century to century in just a few metres. 5

card The Royal Chapel A few months before her death in 1504, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand signed the order to build their mausoleum in Granada, in a chapel adjoining the Cathedral. But they were provisionally buried near the Alhambra for years, and it wasn’t until 1521 that they were moved to this Royal Chapel where they rest to this day, in the city that they cherished as the jewel in their reign.

top sights Many of the Queen’s personal objects are displayed in the chapel’s sacristy, including her crown, her jewellery box and a gorgeous missal, her own “pocket book” copy, specially made for when they were out on campaign.

The bars surrounding the tomb and the high altar in the Chapel are decorated with wonderful mourning figures that appear to be in constant movement. 6 from the Cathedral

Very near the Cathedral we find the Corral del Carbón (1–2), a genuine treasure of Moorish architecture, and a fine example of how Granada fills its monuments and historic legacy with life. To this day, it still offers open–air theatre performances, as it did five centuries ago. Its interior courtyard, surrounded by a gallery replete with small rooms, tells of its past as an inn, where travelling merchants would stop to rest. The route continues through the shopping area around the Calle Zacatín or along the Calle Oficios, 1 one of Granada’s most characteristic and bustling streets. Here you can take a look at La Madraza, the former Arab university, which has preserved the oratory from the original construction with a beautifully decorated mihrab. Then you will come to the Alcaicería (3), a narrow street that used to be the silk market some centuries ago, and 2 which today, particularly first thing in the morning before it fills with visitors, maintains its traditional souk nature and all the charm of a street with a lively history. Passing from one shop and one 3 temptation to another, we come to

the Plaza Bib–Rambla (4), where 3 wonderful lime trees freshen the air and flower stalls fill the square with colour. This is definitely a place to stop for a while and take in the atmosphere, while you choose your next destination: you are in the liveliest shopping area in the city, surrounded by pedestrian streets and tapas areas, such as Calle Mesones, Calle Navas, Plaza 4 de Pescadería (5), Plaza de las Pasiegas or Plaza Trinidad. People from Granada love an aperitif as much as the visitors do, but always accompanied by a delicious tapa (always on the house), and before you know it, a snack or two can easily turn into a tasty meal. 5 7

The legacy of Lorca Granada still breathes the spirit of Lorca, the great local poet who was killed during the Spanish Civil War. The Federico García Lorca Foundation has recently found a suitable home in the Plaza de la Romanilla, next to the Cathedral. This project has long been nurtured by the thousands who admire this universal granadino. The Huerta de San Vicente, now situated within the park bearing his name, was the family’s summer home and where Lorca wrote some of his most important works. It has been made into a house–museum and as such it is one of the city’s inspiring cultural assets. The house contains some of Lorca’s drawings and manuscripts, photographs and many of his personal belongings, all in a setting that has been kept just as it was. Fuentevaqueros, the town where the poet was born, is just ten kilometres from Granada, and it PHOTO: ARCHIVE FROM THE also has his house– FEDERICO GARCÍA LORCA museum. FOUNDATION 8

from Plaza Nueva

Plaza Nueva (4) is the starting point of what is undoubtedly the most picturesque and photographed street in the city, the Carrera del Darro (1–6–7–8). This is the ideal setting for couples, happy or scorned lovers, and dreamers of all ages. When the sun goes down, it becomes one of the most romantic spots in Andalusia, lined on both sides of the river with palaces, churches, convents and 1 charming little hotels. The route can be as long or as short as you like and leads you to the Paseo de los Tristes. Its name [literally meaning “the road of sorrow”] comes from the fact that this used to be the route the funeral processions took on their way to the cemetery. It offers a fantastic view of the Alhambra that is elegantly lit up at night. One of the first places you could visit would be the Royal Chancery (3), in Plaza Nueva itself. This former Law Court is currently the headquarters of the High Court of Justice of Andalusia and its spectacular façade is a blend of Baroque and Renaissance elements. The staircase, considered an architectural marvel, was financed from a fine that a th16 century nobleman had to pay for not removing his hat on entering. Along the route, some of the most interesting buildings worth visiting, even if you just stop for a look, are: the Church of Santa Ana (5), the Casa de los Pisa, now the Museum of San Juan de Dios, the Convent of Santa Catalina and the Church of San Pedro y San Pablo.

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8 9 10 from Plaza Nueva

CARRERA DEL DARRO

PASEO DE LOS TRISTES

CARRERA DEL DARRO

A drink, a chat, some tapas, an evening breeze or a kiss, all taste better in the most romantic setting in Granada. Don’t forget your camera! 11

Calle Elvira is another long street leading from Plaza Nueva, whose wide range of bars and pubs attract the crowds at all hours (9 on page 9). Another popular area, in a different style, is Calle Calderería (2 on page 8) and its surroundings. Don’t be surprised to hear lively street talk around the low tables outside the dozens of typical Arab tea shops that have opened up in the last few years. This area also offers a number of shops selling all kinds of Eastern souvenirs as well as Arab pastries, pitta bread sandwiches and kebabs. Dine out in the open air, combining tapas and more complete dishes with the smooth beer that is so typical in the south. The following are a must: the lively terraces on and around Plaza Nueva, or the more relaxed atmosphere of the Paseo de los Tristes, under the illuminated Alhambra. Either way the experience will be a genuine pleasure. If you continue into the night, you don’t have to go very far to get caught up in the nightlife that won’t stop until daybreak. top sights El Bañuelo [the Arab Baths] is the most complete and the oldest (11th century) surviving hammam in Spain. It is a fine example of how people in a bygone age knew how to live, relaxing in the steam baths under a ceiling of star–shaped skylights.

card The Archaeological Museum houses Roman coins minted locally as well as Moorish treasures in tiles, carved wood and ceramic pottery. 12

from the Alhambra and Generalife card

Nobody can forget the first time they saw the Alhambra, a unique place and the most spectacular and famous Moorish palace in the world. Its boat–shaped outline, dotted with cypress trees, can be seen from any point around the city. This splendid monument has been the main symbol of Granada for twelve centuries. The Alhambra has been a city, a palace for kings and a fortress. In the 18th century it withstood the invasion of Napoleon’s army, which was on the verge of blowing it up, and it was left to the mercy of thieves and tramps for decades until it was declared a national monument in 1870. The complex as a whole is an amazing construction: it has no main façade, no centre, no definite axis. Buildings, towers, palaces, courtyards and gardens seem to arise naturally, as if they had been designed by the very life of their inhabitants. It is decorated using sober materials: plaster, ceramic tiles, marble and wood that the craftsmen’s skill turned into intricate bases, coffering and honeycomb plasterwork, which delight the visitor at every turn. But its real luxury is the water, the perfume, the greenness and the silence.

(1) THE ALHAMBRA FROM THE SACROMONTE (2) EL PARTAL 13

I am a garden adorned by beauty: you will know my being if you look at my beauty. (…) Sublime work of art, fate wishes me from the Alhambra to outshine all other monuments. What a delight for the eyes! and Generalife Ibn Zamrak, 14th century

Buses to the Alhambra leave every few minutes from Calle Pavaneras, next to Plaza Isabel Católica. They pass through the Realejo quarter. On your arrival to the Alhambra you can access the premises through the gate next to the ticket office or through the Puerta de la Justicia (4). It is located some minutes away downhill from the ticket office. Please take into account your ticket entry time shift. If it is a “morning” or an “afternoon” ticket, and your entry time for the Nasrid Palaces (you must be extremely punctual as you risk to miss your entrance to this area of the Alhambra). 4

(3) PATIO DE LOS LEONES [COURTYARD OF THE LIONS] (5) MIRADOR DE DARAXA 14 from the Alhambra and Generalife The Alcazaba was the centre of the citadel and its military part, surrounded by towers and finished off with what is today the Jardín del Adarve garden, formerly a deep pit to discourage possible invaders. You cannot leave without going up the narrow staircase to the Torre de la Vela to enjoy the fantastic views that were no doubt appreciated by the guards on duty over a thousand years ago. The Palace of Carlos V (1) is the most significant Christian construction in the Alhambra: a beautiful Renaissance building, square on the outside and round on the inside. If you think the façade is impressive, you should see the interior courtyard with its columns, which give an idea about the Italian instruction of its architect, Pedro Machuca, one of Michelangelo’s disciples. This Palace houses the Museum of the Alhambra and the Museum of Fine Arts. The Nasrid Palaces are really the heart of the visit: three groups of sumptuous buildings where the king and queen lived with their assorted entourage of family and courtiers. The Hall of Mexuar is the oldest and it was the Palace of Justice, where the 1 Sultan would sit behind the trellises to listen without being seen. At the back we come to the Oratory, with windows looking out over the Albaicín. The Mexuar leads on to the Patio del Cuarto Dorado [Courtyard of the Golden Room] (2). A white marble fountain predominates in this hall. The Cuarto Dorado is on one side, and on the other, the splendid façade that leads into the Palacio de Comares

2 [Palace of Comares]. The route continues along a passageway that brings us to the Patio de los Arrayanes [Courtyard of the Myrtles] (3). The reflection of the buildings in the water is stunning (centuries later, the same method would be used in the Taj Mahal in India) and the aroma of myrtle and freshness is captivating: receptions and celebrations were held here, and more than one court intrigue must have been contrived around the pond. In the Comares section (from the term cumarias, or glass windows) one of the most outstanding details is the Salón de los Embajadores [Ambassadors’ Hall] (4), where you cannot enter without feeling carried away by its magnificent decoration; that was the builder’s intention on locating the Sultan’s throne against the light so that his visitors would be blinded by the sun. The dome, with its thousands of tiny pieces of cedar wood, represents the seven heavens of Islamic paradise and one of the arches bears the inscription: Say few words and you will leave in peace, a genuine call for brevity in the audiences that were held here. Going out once more into the Patio de los Arrayanes, you come to the third set of rooms, surrounding the Patio de los Leones (5–6); it is well worth taking your time to contemplate this area, looking at it from different perspectives and noticing how the forest of columns appears to open up as you walk past. 15

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For several years now, limits have been imposed on the number of visitors to the Alhambra, so it is necessary to book in advance. An alternative is to visit by night; although you only have access to the main buildings, the experience takes on a magical charm. 16 from the Alhambra and Generalife In Moorish architecture, the Patio de los Leones represents the highest aspiration: a hidden garden watched over by all the rooms around it. The twelve white marble lions appear to date back to the 10th or 11th century and, according to different authors, they may represent the tribes of Israel, the constellations of the zodiac, the months of the year or even the tears of a princess. In the Sala de Dos Hermanas [Hall of the Two Sisters] (1) 1 (named after the two white marble flagstones framing the fountain) the Sultan’s wives and favourites spent their days, which also led to this section being known as The Harem. At the back we find the Mirador de Daraxa, a room decorated with a wealth of honeycomb plasterwork and coloured tiles that give it a wonderfully charming feel. Next to the Cuarto del Emperador [the Emperor’s Chamber] is the Peinador de la Reina [the Queen’s Robing Room], which the Empress Isabella used from time to time as a private room. top sights In the Sala de los Abencerrajes [Hall of the Abencerrages], the star–shaped honeycomb plasterwork in the dome is a must, taking inspiration from Pythagoras’ theorem. The reddish marks at the bottom of the fountain may be the remains of blood from thirty six noblemen of the Abencerrage family that were murdered here, as legend has it.

The walls of the Alhambra and Generalife are covered in poetry, inscriptions, ballads, delicate carvings and handcrafted adornments, with all kinds of religious and historic symbolism. Wood, stone and plasterwork are the base materials on which we can admire murals, poems, prayers, praise and even instructions of use. 17

You leave the Nasrid Palaces through the Partal (2), an authentic oasis of tranquillity, with the murmur of water, splendid views and aromas, surrounded by beautiful buildings such as the Torre de las Damas [the Ladies’ Tower] or the oratory. A short stroll will lead you to the Generalife (3), a place of rest and leisure, designed to provide its inhabitants with pleasures for all the senses. For sight: the gardens’ design, a genuine lesson in landscaping that makes the most of the uneven land to lay out courtyards, terraces, viewpoints, flower borders, hedges and mazes. For hearing: enjoy the constant murmur of the fountains and ponds, the Moorish architects’ speciality, who treated water as a decorative element alongside any other.

The visit to the Generalife can be as long or as short as you like, but you must see the Patio de la Acequia [the Courtyard of the Pond] (4), in the centre, with its delicate sprays forming an arch over the water. Legend–lovers will enjoy imagining the romantic adventures that supposedly took place in the Patio de la Sultana [Courtyard of the Sultaness], where King Boabdil is said to have caught his wife red– handed with one of the Abencerrages. Before ending this journey through time, which is what a visit to the Alhambra really entails, you can continue walking up to the former Convent of San Francisco, which is today the Parador de Turismo de Granada hotel, and see one of the prettiest gardens in the whole city. Its terrace is the ideal place to take a rest after such a long visit.

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from the Albaicín

Declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 1994, the labyrinthine Albaicín is one of the oldest districts in Europe, and is also almost a self–contained town in itself, whose popular, intimate and welcoming character has been preserved for over a thousand years. The best way to experience the Albaicín is to take a walk around its narrow streets, little squares, hills and tucked–away spots reminiscent of north African and old Mediterranean towns. It is easy to lose yourself, but even easier to get back: all you have to do is head downhill to get back to the city centre. Most of the Albaicín’s personality comes from its very typical construction: the characteristic houses with a garden that are known here as carmens: with their apparently impregnable fences and walls, once inside they have a surprisingly fresh use of water, vegetation and space. Most of them are private homes, but some of the most emblematic carmens are now hotels and restaurants where you can enjoy a lunch or dinner with splendid views (6–8 on following pages), and foundations or cultural centres. Among those that are open to visitors, the most outstanding are the Carmen de la Victoria and the Casas del Chapiz, that are today the School of Arabic Studies, as well as the Max Moreau Carmen–Museum. To see the best of the Albaicín, you can start from the Paseo de los Tristes, going up the steep Cuesta del Chapiz, until you arrive at the Church of el Salvador, which used to be the district’s Main Mosque, and which still preserves its gorgeous courtyard. Close to this spot you will also find the Placeta de Aliatar, the Arco de las Pesas, Plaza Larga (5 on page 20) and the lively surroundings. THE ALBAICÍN FROM THE ALHAMBRA

Water Thief Street (Calle Ladrón del Agua), Rolled Up Street (Calle Arremangadas), Glass Oven Street (Calle del Horno de Vidrio), Gossip Square (Placeta del Mentidero), Judges Street (Calle Oidores), Weight of Flour (Peso de la Harina)... all these streets and squares bear the secrets of centuries, hinted at in their names. 20 from the Albaicín

Another recommended itinerary is one which leaves from Puerta Elvira, going up the Cuesta de la Alhacaba, until you reach the Mirador de la Lona viewpoint and Plaza de San Miguel Bajo (1), a charming square where you can stop for a rest and get your strength back at any of its numerous restaurants. At the far end of the square, the church of the same name rises up over a former mosque, and it has kept a 13th–century water well in its façade. Not far from here you will find two of the most admired monuments in the Albaicín: the Palace of Dar–al–Horra (2–3), where Boabdil’s mother lived after her husband disowned her to marry a Christian, and the Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real (4), a marvellous example of the Andalusian legacy and the blend of cultures: the front is Gothic, the tower and the ceiling of the nave are Mudejar and the baptismal font was the basin of a Moorish fountain. You can also visit this neighbourhood from the upper 2 3 part, a wise alternative on a hot day or to save some energy: several buses depart from Plaza Nueva and go up to the top of the Albaicín, and from there the visitor can stroll around the district in a downhill direction until reaching the city centre 4 once again.

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A great show for free Many spots in the Albaicín offer spectacular views. One of the most popular viewpoints that you really cannot miss, and one where you will definitely want to stop for a while, is the Mirador de San Nicolás (7), next to the square and church of the same name. At all hours of the day or night you can see people absorbed in the view, with the Alhambra in front, the neighbourhood roofs below and the city in the background.

If your walk ends at the close of the day, a wonderful place to see the sunset would be the Mirador de San Cristóbal, with excellent views of the Palace of Dar–al–Horra, the Alhambra, Sierra Nevada and the green fields around Granada. Another great place to watch the sun going down is the Mirador de la Lona: you can see the whole city and the outskirts from this point. For those who prefer a more intimate setting, the delightful Placeta de Carvajales offers views over the lower Albaicín with the Alhambra in the foreground. Finally, from the Cruz de Rauda (9), heading towards the Sacromonte, the visitor can be taken aback by the ever–present Alhambra and the complete profile of the Albaicín: a 360–degree panorama, an image of Granada that will stay with you forever.

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from the Sacromonte

Adjoining the Albaicín we come to a district that, for many, is the true emblematic neighbourhood of Granada, and definitely the most secret and enigmatic: the Sacromonte. Its name comes from the late 16th century, when the relics of San Cecilio were found in this area along with some mysterious sheets of lead with inscriptions, the books known as the Libros Plúmbeos. Years later the Sacromonte Abbey was built to venerate these findings. But the Sacromonte also has a less holy side; its festive flamenco tradition. There is one Sacromonte by day, and another by night, and both are worth visiting with time on your hands and a spirit of adventure.

By day If you walk up to the Sacromonte, you will be able to enjoy a lovely view of Granada, with the Alhambra and Generalife as the habitual backdrop. The smooth path leaves from Peso de la Harina (2), halfway up the Cuesta del Chapiz. It used to be a Way of the Cross, but today it only maintains a few stone crosses dating back to the 17th century, and paid for by the city’s nobility. Along the walkway–viewpoint (1–3) you can see, or imagine, those homes that have been fascinating visitors for around two centuries: the cave–homes of the Sacromonte, where the Granada gypsies settled in the 18th century. Whitewashed both inside and out, with chimneys as air vents, this district owes most of its special appearance and charm to these peculiar dwellings. At the end of the walk, you can start the walk up to the Abbey, high on the hill.

2 3 23 top sights

Next to the Abbey, the Holy Caves. These caves–catacombs hold the relics of the city’s patron saint, San Cecilio, and the image of the Cristo de los Gitanos [the Christ of the Gypsies] (one of the most venerated images of the Easter processions). One curious point; one of the caves has a stone, and tradition has it that the woman who kisses it will find a husband before the year is out.

By night The Sacromonte is the heart of Granada’s flamenco scene: there are organised shows every day, and if you are lucky, you can find spontaneous displays in the local bars and terraces at any time. The Sacromonte’s zambras (4) – caves used for flamenco shows – are on most travellers’ lists who do not want to leave Granada without living the experience of a long night of flamenco dance and song. All this after dining the traditional Sacromonte omelette (ham and pepper, among other ingredients) and bringing a smile to your face with the music, a drink, and the atmosphere of a very typical but never stereotypical neighbourhood.

In order to get to know the history, evolution and costumes of the Gipsy people as well as their way of life in the caves, you can visit the Cuevas del Sacomonte Museum and the Museum of the Gipsy Women. This last one is located in the popular building known as “La Chumbera” offering wonderful views to the Alhambra. 24

from the Realejo

At the foothills of the Alhambra, the Realejo, the former Jewish quarter, is today one of the most popular and lively districts in Granada (1), and it still preserves the multicultural legacy from its centuries of history. A good option is to visit this area after the Alhambra. If you go down the Cuesta del Realejo, more of a staircase than a street, you arrive in the heart of the district. But before you start your descent, it is a good idea to stop at the upper part in several of its most 1 interesting places. The Carmen de los Mártires (2) has one of the most romantic gardens in Granada, and poetry–lovers will be delighted to discover that Saint John of the Cross1 wrote The Dark Night of the Soul under one of its trees. On a dark night, Inflamed by love–longing– O exquisite happiness!– Undetected I slipped away. My house, at last, grown still. The Museum–House of Manuel de Falla (3) was the home of this great musician and composer until his 2 exile in 1939, and it still conserves a collection of his personal belongings, as well as his piano, musical scores, furniture and other objects, all left just as they were at that time. The impressive reddish structure of the Torres Bermejas [Red Towers] (4), an ancient fortress that was already old when the Alhambra was built, 3 recalls a history of knights and heroic defences.

1. San Juan de la Cruz was a carmelite priest, who is considered one of the greatest lyrical poets, June 24, 1542–December 14, 1591. 25

4 top sights One of the most unusual buildings in Granada: the white carmen that houses the Rodríguez–Acosta Foundation, built between 1914 and 1930, and declared a national monument due to its architectural value and its gardens. It holds the legacy of the painter of the same name, who was a great traveller and collector: a wonderful visit, both for its content and for the setting.

The Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, previously known as the Palace of Almanxarra, is one of the few remaining examples of residential architecture from the Nasrid era in Granada. The garden around the building is open to visitors, and has been the lungs of this bustling district of the Realejo for around eight centuries, offering a fresh, green touch to the neighbourhood.

26 from the Realejo

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And finally, heading towards the centre, the Placeta de la Puerta del Sol (1) is worth stopping at, a gorgeous viewpoint that has conserved its old open washhouse. At the centre of the Realejo is the Campo del Príncipe (2), a large square teeming with bars, and with the Cristo de los Favores statue in the middle: a highly venerated image that has a certain miraculous reputation in the city. Their restaurants and terraces are always busy, especially in the warm summer nights, when groups and whole families get together to enjoy the typical flavours of the local cuisine in a relaxed and popular atmosphere. Around the Campo del Príncipe you will find some of the most interesting churches and convents in Granada: the Church of Santo Domingo (3), for instance, whose bells have marked the rhythm of this neighbourhood for around five centuries. Another place worth visiting is the Convent of the Comendadoras de Santiago, the oldest convent in the city. It has a beautiful Baroque altarpiece but you can also be led into temptation by the exquisite sweet pastries made and sold by the nuns themselves. Following the Calle Pavaneras, you come to one of the local landmarks: the Casa de los Tiros (4) could startle the unexpecting visitor with the muskets on the tower battlements, but this building has a pacific use, it is home to the Granada History Museum. The façade shows five Greek gods dressed as Roman soldiers, a very curious sight.

3 4 and there’s still more

Away from the previous tourist routes, there are other recommended visits, leading the visitor to some interesting buildings and museums in Granada.

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The Monastery of la Cartuja, that was built on the grounds of an Arabic estate, and whose chapel is a great example of Spanish Baroque. The visitor can appreciate the spectacular dome of the sacristy and the fine wood furniture, that took one monk over thirty years to hand carve.

card The Science Park Museum is a journey into the future: an interactive museum inviting you to touch, to experiment, to wonder and to learn while you enjoy! The Macroscope, the new building, hosts the pavilions of a Journey through the Human Body and Science in Al–Andalus, among others. The Planetarium, the Observatory, the Garden of Astronomy and the Tropical Butterfly Garden, the Biosphere Hall or the Observation Tower conform along with many other halls, workshops and outer spaces, a museum for all ages. It comprises one of the widest offers in cultural and scientific leisure in Europe. and there’s still more

The Royal Hospital is, together with the Royal Chancery and the Palace of Carlos V, the best exponent of civil architecture in Granada. Its magnificent façade, the courtyards with their splendid columns, and a priceless library housing 15th century incunabula, are the treasures kept by this impressive Renaissance construction.

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A walk around the Calle San Jerónimo will give you the chance to see some of Granada’s most unique buildings: the Plaza de la Universidad, the Botanical Gardens, the Law Faculty, the Collegiate Church of los Santos Justo y Pastor, the Conservatoire or the Association of Notaries. On arriving at the Calle San Juan de Dios we come to the Hospital and the Basilica of Saint John of God (2), with barely a few metres separating them. And just around the corner you will find the Monastery of San Jerónimo (1) card whose high altar is a real treasure, decorated with images of saints, heros, mythical figures, angels and historic characters.

Museum Memory of Andalusia Discover the history and culture of our region in the most modern building in the city, designed by Architect Alberto Campo Baeza. You’ll get to know every detail of our region, getting a comprehensive view of our identity. useful info useful info bono turístico

1 3 5 7 from the Cathedral from the Alhambra from the Sacromonte and there’s still more verás más see more

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