How to Grow Vegetables and Garden Herbs;

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How to Grow Vegetables and Garden Herbs; Come ft Cornell University Library SB 321.F87 How to grow vegetables and garden herbs; 3 1924 002 869 281 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002869281 HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES ?^>^^ HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES AND tJARDEN HERBS A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND PLANTING TABLE FOR THE VEGETABLE GARDENER BY ALLEN FRENCH Jfpto fork THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON; MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. 1911 All riphls reserved LL. Copyright, 1907 By the Macmillan Company Set up and electrotyped. Published April, 1907 Reprinted May, 1011 jnaaunt l^luiuit Vttt* J. Horace McFarland Company HaiTlsbur{r, Pa. ^0 M. C 1^. B iflotijer=<I5ariiencr PUBLISHER'S NOTE This is a new edition of the book previ- ously published under the title "The Book of Vegetables." TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE PREFACE ' , ix PLANTING TABLE .... 1 TABLE OF SEED-LONGEVITY AND OUNCE VALUES . ... 300 INDEX 305 (vii) PREFACE THIS book is designed to be of assistance to all who have to do with vegetable seeds, whether as buyers or as sellers. When a beginner in vegetable-gardening, I was painfully aware of my need of a convenient and reliable planting-table, giving particular directions for the cul- ture of all vegetables. I should have been saved mis- takes both Itidicrous and vexatious by such a book, the general value of which I can best illustrate by a quota- tion from the English "Book of Asparagus," by Charles Ilott (the John Lane Company, publishers). The author tells the following: "Only a few weeks ago I was in. a garden where there was a large bed of salsify. The owner was not satisfied with the plants, and told me he had changed his seedsman, because the salsify was poor and strag- -gling. I examined the bed, and counted eight plants to the foot run. I turned to the other side of the bed, where broccoli was planted, and found them a foot apart from row to row and less in the rows. They were about three feet high, so I said, "Your broccoli is also a failure." "Yes," he said, "no more seed from Messrs. So-and-so." I said, "Are you not blaming your seeds- man for your own ignorance?" He said, "Well, my (ix) X PREFACE gardener is of the same opinion as myself." I asked to see the gardener. He replied that he had not one now, but wanted one. I replied, "Yes, you certainly do want one." ... I then told him what I thought, and wondered how often our nurserymen and seedsmen are blamed for our incompetency." This instance of the loss of a summer's work from mere ignorance of proper planting distances, is but an illustration of one of the several ways in which a crop of vegetables may be, if not ruined, at least greatly lessened. In the culture of almost every vegetable there is some point to be observed which is essential to real success. The deep planting of one seed is as necessary as the shallow planting of another; the tenderness and hardiness of plants must be understood and considered. Besides these there are many points of knowledge brought out by recent investigations — as for. instance in the fertilization or protection of the crop—which aid in increasing the normal yield. In spite of the evident need, these items have never before been brought to- gether in convenient form, thoroughly covering not merely classes of vegetables, but all the separate kinds. This book is intended, therefore, for seedsmen and their customers, that both may get full benefit from the seeds, the latter in good crops, the former in continued custom. That seedsmen have long recognized the need of such a book is evident from their catalogues, in which PREFACE xi they regularly publish brief directions for the culture of vegetables. These directions are, however, both short and incomplete, for in the space at their disposal the seedsmen cannot summarize all that it is of benefit to know of the culture of all vegetables. At the same time the handbooks on vegetable cul- ture, excellent as they are, treat vegetables as a rule in classes rather than individually, and do not mention many of the valuable sorts which are rare or of recent introduction. Dates and methods, as here outlined, are proper for the climate of the northern United States. Generally speaking, in stating planting-times the latitude con- sidered is that of the city of New York, but for other places the difference in season can be roughly worked out by allowing six days' difference for each hundred miles of latitude. This will not cover, of course, wide differences of altitude, so that these will often have to be considered. Moreover, our springs are uncertain and variable, so that the planting-times here given are but an average, and for each year the time of first planting will really be shown by the ground itself. "When the ground is fit," and "When the ground can be worked," are convenient gardeners' phrases, meaning when the frost is out and the ground sufficiently dry to be workable. This last will vary with local differences in soils, whether sandy (which is earliest), loamy (which is of medium season) or clayey (which is late). xii PREFACE Witli such local soil-conditions this book has noth- ini; to do; if a man's soil is late it is both his misfortune and (if lie has cultivated it for any length of time) his fault. He can improve it by the means suggested in the handbooks on gardening, or in the various govern- ment and state pam})hlcts, to which he is also referred for the general subject of soil-management. But if, as is most likely, his garden or his fields have soils differ- n--;^,M»-.l. Fi 1 The old style \e{retible bed -^nd the b-^ k brolking pDtcss of \\L(.dnig. Nowadays \L^LtablLs are grown in lows. iiig in character, he can learn from tJiis book in which particular spot a gi\en plant will best thrive. Fortu- nately, while undoubtedly plants have preferences, it is possible to grow most of them successfully on average soil. With each plant I have given a summary of its uses, its culture, and in case it is little known, its virtues. "Annual" means that a plant will, under natural con- ditions, go to seed and die in one season; "biennial" PREFACE xiii means that the plant requires two years for developing its seed; "perennial" means that, however often the plant may produce seed, its root lives on for a number of years. For each plant are given sowing-directions. I as- sume that nowadays no one grows vegetables in beds. Space is better utilized and labor is saved by growing the plants in drills or rows, except in the field-culture of various crops, sowed broadcast, with which this book has nothing to do. Broadcast sowing in the seed-bed is, of course, a recognized garden practice i-esorted to in special cases. The proper distance of rows from each other is prac- tically determined by the height and spread (whether above or below ground'^ of the plants: they should not crowd or shade each other. The distances here given are the smallest which can safely be used for hand culture. Convenience will in many cases lead the gardener to plant at greater distances if he has the space, while if he depends on horse-culture he must plant still farther apart, usually thirty inches at the least. That is his affair. This book is intended to help not only the man with plenty of room, but also the man who, by means of intensive cultivation, must get all he can from a small patch. Indicating the distances that seed should be sown in the rows is intended to help in economizing seed as well as in the saving of labor. It is wasteful to sow an xiv PREFACE ounce of seed if a packet will do the work ; and it is ex- a.sperating to spend time in thinning what never should have been sown. A "good stand" of anything makes troublesome thinning; while in the case of asparagus, unless early and savagely thinned, extermination of the superfluous plants is impossible without digging out their crowns. I suppose I need hardly say that seed should be fresh, and bought of a reliable dealer. If a gardener wishes to sow old seed, he should first test its viability. The simplest method is to lay a given number of seed between moist cloths, in a tin box or between two dinner-plates laid edge to edge; the percentage of ger- mination is thus easily found. As for the dealer, there is no excuse for not buying of one of the many reputable city houses, all of which prepay mail charges on seed ordered by the ounce or packet. Grocery-store seed is too often old and poor. It would be of value if I could gi\e here the number of feet of drill that an ounce of a given seed will sow, or the number of plants that an ounce will produce, but this subject has never, so far as I have found, been reliably and extensively tested. Seedsmen's statements on this point are (as I learn from the experiments of Professor Bailey, and from my own experience) merely guesses on the safe side.
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