The Reno Valley 52 The River Reno However, it is the history of thousands of years The Reno, in Celtic “running water”, is born in which flows along with the Reno, an extraordi- Tuscany on Monte delle Piastre and after a nary open-air museum displaying its geological short stretch of rapids, enters Emilia. We are at history and that of the use of its water. The Ponte della Venturina, in the territory of Reno has had a profound influence on the eco- Granaglione: from here, the course of the river nomy of the lands it crosses, making Bologna follows a green valley, snaking for 75 kms down the first industrial city in Europe. to Casalecchio di Reno. The Reno is also a precious environmental arte- From Casalecchio, the Reno begins its course ry, offering stretches of extraordinary beauty, over the Bolognese plains, almost as far as which once discovered are impossible not to Ferrara. Its banks, among the highest and most love. imposing of the Val Padana, can be seen for kilometres, running alongside the river up to the Valleys of Comacchio, until finally reaching the Adriatic Sea. In its last stretch, the Reno flows over the antique bed of the River Po di Primaro, in Roman times the principal branch of the River Reno on the plain Great River. Photo by Comune di Baricella 53 The Reno Valley the Apennines Tourist itinerary Not to be missed : The itinerary is based around the Corno alle Scale and its ski-centre SS 64 Porrettana highway. At The Marconi Museum in Pontecchio (Sasso Marconi) Vergato, it divides into two The Etruscan Necropolis and the National Etruscan parallel paths: the first takes the Museum in Marzabotto traveller from the mountains of La Pieve (parish church) of Roffeno Grizzana Morandi to the Park La Pieve (parish church) of Panico and other works by the dedicated to the two great lakes “Maestri comacini” of Suviana and Brasimone, while The Church of Santa Maria Assunta by Aalvar Aalto in Riola the second climbs to the highest Grizzana Morandi and its mountains peak of the Bolognese Apen- The Rocchetta Mattei nines, the Corno alle Scale, then The Medieval village of La Scola arriving in Porretta Terme, the Palazzo Comelli in Bargi capital of thermal wellness, fini- The villages of Baigno, Stagno and Chiapporato shing in Granaglione in the shel- The Parks and Nature Reserves ter of the Tuscan-Emilian moun- The thermal baths of Porretta tain range. The Porretta Soul Festival The Zuccherini Montanari (aniseed doughnuts) - Casalecchio di Reno The mushrooms, truffles and chestnuts of the Reno Valley - Sasso Marconi The chestnut beer of Granaglione - Marzabotto - Vergato From the hills of Grizzana Mo- Casalecchio randi to the Parco dei Laghi di Reno - Grizzana Morandi - Camugnano - Castel di Casio Towards the highest ridges Sasso Marconi - Castel d’Aiano - Gaggio Montano - Lizzano in Belvedere - Porretta Terme Marzabotto - Granaglione Castel d’Aiano Vergato Grizzana Morandi Gaggio Montano Lizzano Camugnano Castel di Casio in Belvedere Porretta Terme Granaglione 54 History and Environment stnut “ciacci” (a chestnut-flour flat bread), the The history of the Reno Valley has its roots in “crescenta dell’uva” (raisin-bread) of Vergato the Etruscan civilisation, which left important and the “borlenghi” (crumbly puff-pastry with traces of its presence: in the area of Marzabotto, an appetizing filling). You should also try the there are the remains of a large city dating back “zuccherini montanari” (aniseed doughnuts), to the 6th century BC, and there is now the central to the Sagra (Feast) of Riola. “Pompeo Aria” National Etruscan Museum. Subsequently the valley was conquered before How to get there: by Celts and after by Romans. Then it was mar- - A1 Motorway Bologna-Florence: exit Sasso ked by conflicts to gain control over the various Marconi, Rioveggio and Pian del Voglio, then settlements and castles, divided between join the SS 64 “Porrettana” highway and follow Byzantine and Lombard possessions. Here the the indications for the different places. story of the Counts of Panico was played out: - Roads: SS 64 Porrettana (Pistoia - Bologna) proud enemies of the Bologna Council, they - Railway Bologna-Pistoia: stations in were finally forced to obey thanks to the crea- Casalecchio di Reno, Borgo Nuovo, Sasso tion of the “Capitani della Montagna” (Mountain Marconi, Lama di Reno, Marzabotto, Pian di Rangers), whose splendid building is in Vergato. Venola, Pioppe di Salvaro, Vergato, Riola, From this period there remain the marvellous Silla, Porretta Terme, Ponte della Venturina, works by the Maestri comacini (an ancient Guild Molino del Pallone, Biagioni. of Master-builders and Stonemasons) and the - Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it, connect numerous tower-houses distributed throughout the towns to each other and Bologna. the valley. Heir to this great building tradition is the beautiful Palazzo Comelli in Bargi (Camugna- Tourist Information no). There is also plenty of evidence of more Sasso Marconi - InfoSasso recent history: from the Guglielmo Marconi Mu- Via Porrettana, 312 - 40037 Sasso Marconi (BO) seum to the places visited by the painter Giorgio Tel. 051.6758409 - [email protected] Morandi, passing by the fairytale Rocchetta Opening times: Mattei, to the Art Nouveau of the Terme Alte of Monday 3-8 pm Porretta. The Church of Riola is a masterpiece of Friday 9.30 am-2 pm / 3-8 pm contemporary architecture, the only work in Saturday and Sunday 10-12.30 am / 3.30-8 pm Italy by the great Finnish master Alvar Aalto. The unusually beautiful landscape varies a lot Porretta Terme - IAT Tourist Office according to the height, which reaches 2000 P.zza della Libertà, 11 - 40046 Porretta Terme (BO metres at Corno alle Scale. Almost entirely Tel. 0534.22021 - [email protected] covered with chestnut and beech woods, the Opening times: landscape is protected by three Regional Parks: Monday to Saturday (winter) 8.30am-2.30pm the Regional Park of Corno alle Scale, the Regio- Monday to Saturday (summer) 9-12am/4-7pm nal Park of the Lakes and the Regional Historical Sunday (summer) 9am-1pm Park of Monte Sole, as well as the Parco Provin- ciale di Montovolo and the Pliocene foothills. Lizzano in Belvedere - Tourist Office P.zza G. Marconi, 6 - 40042 Lizzano in Belvedere (BO) Buon appetito Tel. 0534.51052 - [email protected] The local cuisine, like the dialect, is the result of Opening times: its geographical position between Emilia and Every day (summer and Christmas) 9.30-12.30 am / 3.30-6.30 pm Tuscany. The dishes reflect the noble gastrono- Tuesday, Thursday and Friday (winter) 9.30-12.30 am mical traditions of both regions, creating a tasty Saturday and Sunday (winter) 9.30-12.30 am / 3-6 pm contamination. Besides the typical soups of Emilia (called “minestre” in Bolognese, a term Vidiciatico - Tourist Office also used to indicate pasta dishes) you will also P.zza XXVII Settembre, 8 - 40042 Vidiciatico (BO) find cereal-based soups, the succulent Fioren- Tel. 0534.53159 - [email protected] tina (T-bone steak), game, truffle, mushroom Opening times: and chestnut-based dishes, without forgetting Every day (summer and Christmas) 9.30-12.30 am / 3.30-6.30 pm the infinite other delicacies offered by the Monday, Wednesday and Friday (winter) 9.30-12.30 am woods and mountain moors, created according Saturday and Sunday (winter) 9.30-12.30am / 3-6 pm to ancient recipes. Of particular note are the mountain honey and the chestnuts of Grana- Molino del Pallone (Granaglione) glione, the last town before reaching Tuscany, Via Roma, 56/1 - 40030 Molino del Pallone (BO) where there is a surprise: the Beltaine Chestnut Tel. 0534.62468 - [email protected] Beer, inspired by the presence of the Celts in Opening in 2007 the valley. Also original to the zone are the che- 55 The Porrettana: a 2000-year-old road Balzo dei Rossi in Sasso Marconi - Photo by Ecosistema - Andrea Serra Inhabited since time immemorial, the Reno side, while at the same time the continuation Valley has played a decisive role since Etruscan on the Tuscan side was constructed, the Via times as the main link between Emilia and Leopolda, named in honour of the Tuscan Tuscany. Grand Duke Leopoldo II. In the Middle Ages, the road was called Via The Porrettana still links cities and landscapes Francesca della Sambuca and was an impor- that are extremely different, but all equally tant alternative to the Via Francigena, used by fascinating, in a journey through places set in pilgrims on their journey to Rome. These snow and fog, woods and wide-open spaces, ancient paths have now been rediscovered mountains and plains which cannot fail to and parts can be followed on foot, with public move visitors. transport or by car, following the free publica- tion, In The Footsteps Of The Pilgrims, edited On the 3rd November 1864, a steam train set off by Renzo Renzi for the Province of Bologna. to inaugurate the railway running parallel to the Porrettana, connecting Bologna to Pistoia, Despite being little more than a mule track, the first trans-Apennine railroad, considered at the road through the Reno Valley continued the time to be one of the most courageous to be one of the most used roads through the undertakings in Europe. The entire journey Apennines until the 18th century. With indu- took six and a half hours. Today this beautiful strialization, the infrastructural requirements stretch is reserved for a regional train which changed and new work was necessary: in 1847, takes an hour and a half to run through the under the Papal Government of Pope Gregory Reno Valley, allowing visitors to reach many of XVI, the State Highway 64 known as the the places mentioned in our itinerary and to “Porrettana” was completed on the Bolognese breathe in the atmosphere of another time.