Pattern Selection

Ex tension Bulletin 567 A ugust 1964

PATTERN SELECTION

If you buy the right pattern type for your figure 1 ) . The differences between ty pes are based on as well as the right pattern size, you will need height, body proportions, and figure contours: fewer pattern alterations and will have fewer fitting • Miss-for the average figure. Fully devel problems. oped in bust, waist, and hip. Well propor Style is important, too. If you are a beginner, tioned throughout. Taller than any of the choose a simple pattern- one with only a few pieces. other figure ty pes. Height is about 5 feet, 6 Don't attempt a complicated pattern until you gain inches in size 14. Miss pattern sizes are 10-ZO. experience. Many well-designed dresses come from Woman-for the larger figure with a full but the simplest patterns. slightly lower bustline. Height is n1ore than 5 feet, 6 inches. Pattern sizes are 40-48. PATTERN DESIGN • Junior or junior miss-for the youthful figure, slightly shorter than Miss or YVoman, but The pattern design should match the ty pe of well developed with a high, firm bust. Height fabric you plan to u se. Soft, drapable fabric needs is about 5 feet, 5 inches in size 13. Junior a pattern with the same softness of design. pattern sizes are 9-15. P laids and large-figured fabrics usually look best • Half-size- for the fully developed, short when made with few seams. Patterns with many waisted figure. Narrower in the shoulder seams break up the design of the fabric and look than the Miss and larger in the hip and waist . best made in plain-colored fabric. Height is about 5 feet, 3 inches in size 14 Yz . If you have fitting problems, you can minimize Half-size patterns range from 1ZYz to Z4Yz. them by choosing patterns with special features: • Teen-for the slightly developed figure that • Full bust-Underarm darts make alterations is shorter than the Junior or the Miss . Height easier and make for better fit. Designs with is a bout 5 feet, 3 inches in size 14. Teen the blouse front gathered to a yoke or with a pattern sizes are 10-16. shoulder pleat allow needed ease. • Sub-teen or pre-teen-for a figure shorter than • Broad shoulders- A pattern with pleats or gathers in the back usually fits more comfort ably . If pleats or gathers are not desired, se lect a pattern with darts at the shoulder or neckline for a better fit. If alterations are )2 ~ ~ ~ ~ necessary, this construction detail will make the job easier. LJ U D [] \J • Heavy upper legs-Choose a skirt with gores D . 0 0 0 0 or pleats to allow ample ease below the hipline. DDCJDD PATTERN TYPE JR . PETITE TEEN M ISS JUN IOR HALF-SIZE FIG. I- A II the fi g ures shown in t he ill ustration wear approximate ly Various pattern types are designed to give a bet th e sa me size pattern. But t hey wear d ifferent pattern types, Th is is due t o d ifferences in heig ht, fi g ure d evelo pment, and figure ter fitting pattern for individual figure types (Fig. p roportio n, not t o d ifferences in age.

EXTENSION SERVICE INSTITUTE OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES WASHI NGTON STATE UN IVE RSI TY PULLMAN , WASHINGTON '\ 2 ~ I 3

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RECORD YOUR MEASUREMENTS

I. FULL BUST-Pass tape around body, under the arms and over fullest part of bust. 2. WAIST-Draw tape as snug as you like your garment to be at the waistline. 3. HIP-Take measurement 7 inches below the waistline, straight around the figure . 4. BACK WAIST LENGTH-Measure from base of neck down the back to the waistline . 5. SHOULDER SEAM LENGTH-Measure from base of neck to point of shoulder. 6. BACK SHOULDER WIDTH-Take measurement 4 inches below base of neck, from armhole to armhole with arms forward . 7. UPPER ARM-Measure around fullest part of arm. This is usually at the base of the armhole. 8. FRONT BUST MEASURE-Seam to seam across the fullest part of the bust. 9. FRONT WAIST LENGTH-Measure from highest point on shoulder over bustline to waist. 10. UNDERARM LENGTH-Measure distance from underarm seam to natural waistline. II . LENGTH OF ARM-From top of shoulder at normal armhole seam. over bent elbow to wrist. 12. SKIRT LENGTH-Measure along side seam from waist to desired hem length. the Teen, with a larger waistline and less REVISED MEASUREMENT CHART noticeable bust. Height is about 5 feet, 1 Yz inches in size 14s. Pattern sizes are 8s-14s. FOR ALL PATTERN COMPANIES • Junior petite-for the short, shapely, small waisted figure. Height is about 5 feet, 1 inch MISS in size 11 jp. Pattern sizes are 3jp-13jp. Buy Size 10 12 14 16 18 20 • Girl- for the small, i1nmature figure that If Bust is 31 32 34 36 38 40 Wa ist 24 25 26 28 30 32 needs little dart fitting. Height is about 5 Hip 33 34 36 38 40 42 feet in size 14. Sizes range from 7 to 14. Back Wa ist Length 15% 16 16 Y,. 16 % 16% 17 Pattern types are not based on age, although the names seem to suggest this. Some adults will find, WOMAN for instance, that a teen pattern fits them best. And Buy Size 40 42 44 46 48 some teen-agers will find that a half-size pattern is If Bust is 42 44 46 48 50 their best choice. Waist 34 36 38 % 41 43 % Check the style of the pattern carefully, how Hip 44 46 48 50 52 Back Wa ist Length 17 Ys 17 Y4 17% 17% 17% ever, as half-size patterns have been designed for the mature individual and teen patterns for girls, not women. JUNIOR OR JUNIOR MISS Measurements for each of the pattern types are Buy Size 11 13 15 given in the accompanying chart. Bust, waist, hip, If Bus t is 30 ;12 31 Y2 33 35 Wa ist 23 Y2 24 Y2 25 Y2 27 and back waist length measurements are standard for Hip 32 Y2 33 % 35 37 all well-known pattern brands. Back Wa ist Le ngth 15 15 Y4 15 ;12 15% However, some makes of patterns seem to fit one individual better than another. This is due to the HALF-SIZE amount of ease allowed, difference in slant of the Buy Size 12 ;12 14% 16Y2 18% 20 ;;2 22 ;;2 24 Y2 shoulder line, curve of armseye, neckline, and posi If Bust is 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 tion of darts. . Wais t 27 29 31 33 35 37 ;12 40 Hip 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 Back Wa ist Le ngth 15 Y4 15 ;12 15% 16 16Y4 16% 16 % PATTERN SIZE Careful measurements are the key to a good fit. TEEN You will need four of the measurements suggested Buy Size 10 12 14 16 If Bust is 30 32 34 36 here to buy the right pattern size and type. You Wai st 24 25 26 28 will use the other measurements to check the pat Hip 32 34 36 38 tern and make any necessary alterations before cut Back Wa ist Leng th 14% 15 15 Y4 15% ting out the garment. The most important measurement for selecting SUB-TEEN OR PRE-TEEN the correct pattern size is the bust measurement. Buy Size 8s 1Os 12s 14s When you take measurements, wear the type of If Bu st is 28 29 31 33 Waist 23 24 25 26 foundation garment to be worn with the finished Hip 31 32 34 36 garment . Back Wa ist Length 13 % 13 % 14 14 Y4 Maintain normal posture. For accurate measure ment, tie a ribbon or string around the waist at the JUNIOR PETITE natural waistline. Buy Size 3jp 5jp 7jp 9jp 11 jp 13 jp Take measurements over a well-fitted foundation If Bust is 31 31 Y2 32 n y2 33 33 Y2 garment and slip. Pull the measuring tape snug, Wa is t 22 ;;2 23 23 % 24 24 Y2 25 Hip 32 ;12 33 33 % 34 34 % 35 but not tight. Back Wai ~t Length 14 14 Y4 14;12 14% 15 15 Y,. Some measurements, such as back shoulder width and underarm length, are easiest taken from a gar GIRL ment that you know fits well. If you take some Buy Size 10 12 14 of the measurements from a garment, however, be If Breast is 25 26 28 30 32 sure to mark which ones. These measurements will Wa is t 22 ;;2 23 24 25 26 Hip 27 28 30 32 % 35 already include the ease needed for comfort. Back Wa ist Length 11 11 % 12 Y,. 13 13 % This bulletin was adapted. by permzsswn. from material originally published by Iowa State University.

Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30. 1914. bv the \Vashington State University Extension Service. C. A. Svinth. Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating.· 15M- 8-64