Vienna Dress 2

Vienna Dress Vienna is a dress for happy girls in sizes 2Y – 10Y with a rounded skirt part as key feature. You have a choice between three sleeve options, 2 back options and 2 skirt options. This way you can create a unique playful or more stylish look every time you use the pattern, suitable for every girl and for every occasion. Clear and illustrated instructions guide you through the sewing process so it’s the perfect pattern for beginners and more advanced seamstresses.

Questions or problems? Feel free to contact us! Facebook: facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels facebook.be/beletoileblog Mail: [email protected] [email protected]

First and foremost... This pattern and its instructions are protected by copyright legislation. The pattern is only meant for personal use. It is not allowed to share the pdf file or printed copies with others, nor to sell the pattern without consent of the designers. Would you like to sell hand-sewn Vienna dresses? Would you like to give a workshop with the Vienna pattern? Please contact us for the terms and conditions. Thanks for buying our pattern! We hope you like it and we look forward to see what you’ll be sewing with it! Katrien & Isabel

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog Printing instructions 3 The pattern comes in three versions: - A0 (for printing in a copyshop): all pattern pieces in alle sizes fit on one A0 page - A4 (for printing at home): cut and glue all 19 pages together according to the marks - Letter (for printing at home): cut and glue all 19 pages together according to the marks Make sure to choose the right version for your paper size! To print, choose the option “scale to 100%”. If you don’t, the proportions of the pattern will change and you’ll end up with non-matching pattern pieces. To check whether you printed correctly, use the test square. This should be exactly 3 x 3 cm or 1 inch square. We suggest you to follow the instructions on your laptop or tablet instead of printing them. However, if you prefer a printed version, choose for printing in full-color since the pictures won’t be clear enough in black-and-white. The pattern offers the option to only print the desired size. Open the pattern in Adobe Acrobat PDF reader and open the “layers” tab. Each size is one layer. Re- move all sizes you don’t want to print. Don’t remove the last layer (“ALWAYS PRINT THIS LAYER”) because this is the layer containing all marks and notches. The table tells you wich pages to print for your size. 2y - 6y 7y - 10y Bodice 11-14 11-14 Gathered skirt 2, 3, 7, 8 1-3, 6-8 Pleated skirt 4, 5, 9, 10 4, 5, 9, 10 Cap Sleeve 18, 19 18,19 Straight Sleeve 19 19 Collar 15 15 Cutting and pasting the pattern (only for A4 and letter format) Cut on the dotted lines and paste the pages onto each other in the right order (as shown on this diagram). Make sure the little squares match everywhere. After glueing the pages, you can cut out the pattern pieces or trace them on pattern paper. SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED! THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1 CM (3/8 INCH) EVERYWHERE, EXCEPT AT THE HEM ALLOWANCE WHERE WE USE A 3 CM (1 3/16 INCH) SEAM ALLOWANCE. A4 size Letter size

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog 4 Sizing chart We can’t emphasize this enough: the numbers tell the tale! Please don’t start sewing assuming that the standard size will be a correct fit. The main measurement for this dress is the chest circumference. Correctly measure the girl that you are sewing the dress for and use that measure-ment to determine her size. If your measurements are in between sizes, make the larger one. The hemline of the dress is just above the knee. If you’re not sure about the length, you can compare the length of a well fitted dress to the below measurements. Shorten or lenghten as needed. Kid’s Size Size 2y 3y 4y 5y 6y 7y 8y 9y 10y Chest 52cm 54cm 56cm 58cm 60cm 63cm 65cm 67cm 69cm 20 1/2” 21 1/4” 22” 22 3/4” 23 1/2” 24 3/4” 25 1/2” 26 1/2” 27 1/2

Finished dress Size 2y 3y 4y 5y 6y 7y 8y 9y 10y Chest 57cm 59cm 61cm 63cm 65cm 67cm 69cm 71cm 73cm 21 5/8” 23 1/4” 24” 24 3/8” 25 5/8” 26 3/8 27 1/8” 28 28 3/4 Length 49.5cm 53cm 57cm 61cm 64cm 67cm 70cm 73cm 76cm dress 19 1/2” 20 7/8” 22 1/2” 24 25 1/2” 26 1/2” 27 1/2” 28 3/4” 30”

What do you need? Material requirements Invisible zipper 22cm/8 ¾ “ (sizes 2Y-7Y) or 40cm/15 ¾” (sizes 8Y-10Y) For the collar option: lightweight interfacing 10cm/4”

Fabric requirements Main fabric: cotton, cotton voile, satin, rayon and other woven fabrics. For the pleated skirt option you can also opt for quilting cotton or jacquard fabric.

Lining: cotton

It’s not advisable to work with knit fabrics.

Required fabric - Yardage In centimeters / yards Fabric widht 2y 3y 4y 5y 6y 7y 8y 9y 10y 110cm 70cm 80cm 80cm 100cm 110cm 110cm 130cm 140cm 140cm 44 inch 27 1/2” 30 1/2” 30 1/2” 39 1/2” 43 1/2” 43 1/2” 51 1/4” 55” 55” 140cm 70cm 80cm 80cm 80cm 90cm 90cm 100cm 110cm 110cm 60 inch 27 1/2” 30 1/2” 30 1/2” 30 1/2” 35 1/2” 35 1/2” 39 1/2” 43 1/2” 43 1/2”

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog Glossary 5 Understitching: stitching sewn on the right side of the lining at about 2mm from the seamline with seam allowance folded under the lining.

Clipping seams: making vertical cuts in the seam allowance at the curved portions to make the turning easier.

Waist seam: as the word says it, the seam at the waist. For this pattern, it is the seam attaching the back bodice to the back skirt.

Presser foot width: sewing at presser foot width means you won’t sew at 1cm (3/8 inch) like usual, but instead you align the edge of your fabric with the presser foot. This way your stitch line is at 7mm (1/4 inch) instead of at 1 cm (3/8 inch). This technique is used for temporary stitching lines that shouldn’t be visible on the outside of the garment. Seam allowance Seam allowances are included in this pattern. The seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8 inch), and 3 cm (1 3/16inch) at the hem.

Cutting your fabrics Outer fabric: FRONT SKIRT: 1x on fold BACK SKIRT: 2x mirrored FRONT BODICE: 1x on fold BACK BODICE: 2x mirrored COLLAR (optional): 4x (2x2) mirrored CAP SLEEVE (optional): 2x or STRAIGHT SLEEVE (optional): 2x Cut the following pattern pieces from lining fabric:

Lining fabric: FRONT BODICE LINING: 1x on fold BACK BODICE LINING: 2x mirrored

Fusible interfacing (only for collar option): COLLAR: 2x mirrored

No need for extended instructions? Use this quick sew guide to make sure you don’t miss a step.

Collar option - Stitch the lower edge of the collar (leave the top edge and shoulder edge unstitched) - Clip edges, turn right sides out and press. - Pin the collar to the front bodice and stitch at presser foot width

Sewing the dress - Zigzag or serge all side edges and center back edges - Stitch shoulder seams of main bodice and lining bodice - Gather the sleeves and stitch to the armholes between the marks (optional) - Stitch the neckline (leave the first 2cm at each side unstitched). Understitch. - Stitch the armholes - Pull back pieces through shoulders and turn right sides out - Stitch side seams - Stitch side seams of skirt pieces - Pleat or gather the front skirt piece - Stitch bodice and skirt together - Zigzag or serge seam - Install zipper - Close center back seam by stitching from zipper to hem - Attach back lining pieces to zipper - Hem

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog Sewing the dress 7 A. Preparations Zigzag or serge the marked edges. If you’re adding the collar, reinforce 2 mirrored pieces with lightweight fusible interfacing.

B.SEWING THE DRESS

1.Stitch the lower edges of the two collar pieces. Clip edges. Turn right sides out and press. If you’re not adding a collar, go to step 3.

2.Pin the collar to the neckline and stitch with 0,7cm or 1/4” seam allowance.

3.Pin shoulder seams of front bodice and back bodice pieces together and stitch. 4.Repeat previous step for lining pieces.

5.This is the step where you’ll be adding the sleeves. If you want cap sleeves, go to step 5.1. If you want straight sleeves, go to step 5.2 If you’re making a sleeveless version, please go to step 6. 5.1 Gathered cap sleeves -Fold sleeves in half wrong sides together and press -Stitch 2 gathering threads, the first one at presser foot width from the edge, the second one at presser foot width from the first one. Stitch them at maximum stitch length without backstitching at the beginning and the end. 5.1

-Pin the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. -Gather until the sleeve fits between the marks by gently pulling both gathering threads and dividing the gathers evenly.

5.1

-Reset your stitching length to normal and stitch the sleeve to the bodice at presser foot width.

5.2 Gathered straight sleeves -Fold the rectangles in half, right sides together and stitch the short edges. -Clip corners, turn right sides out and press.

5.2 -Stitch 2 gathering threads, the first one at presser foot width from the edge, the second one at presser foot width from the first one. -Pin the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. -Gather until the sleeve fits between the marks by gently pulling both gathering threads and dividing the gathers evenly. -Reset your stitching length to normal and stitch the sleeve to the bodice at presser foot width.

5.2

6.Pin the lining bodice to the main bodice, right sides together, and stitch the neckline. Make sure to leave 2cm at the beginning and the end unstitched (for the zipper). Make sure the sleeves are out of the way when stitching the neckline.

7.Clip the curved seam allowance.

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog 10 8 8. Next, we’re going to stitch the neckline seam allowance to the lining (“understitching”) to make sure the lining won’t be visible at the neckline while wearing. Fold the lining to the right and the main fabric to the left, like in the picture. Pin the seam allowance onto the lining. The seam allowance lays under the lining now. Topstitch on the right side of the lining.

9. Now fold the lining bodice back over the main bodice, right sides together and pin the armholes.

10. Stitch the armholes. 11. Shorten the seam allowance of the armholes to 0,5cm or 1/5” and clip the seam allowance.

12.Turn the dress right sides out by pulling the back pieces through the shoulder. Do so by inserting your fingers between the main bodice and the lining bodice.

13.Iron by carefully pressing all edges and pay extra attention to the neckline to avoid the lining from peeking out.

11 14.Time to close the side seams. Match up side seams from the right front bodice to the right back bodice (main and lining) and pin together. Stitch the side seam in one line starting at main side seam and ending at lining side seam. Repeat for the left side of the bodice. Press seams open.

15.Match up side seams from skirt pieces, pin together and stitch. Press seams open If you’re making the gathered skirt, go to step 16. If you’re making the pleated skirt, go to step 21.

16.Gathered skirt Stitch 2 gathering threads, the first one at presser foot width from the edge, the second one at presser foot width from the first one. Stitch at maximum stitch length without backstitching at the beginning and end. 17.Pin the middle of the skirt to the middle of the main bodice. Make sure to match side seams. 18.Gently pull both gathering threads until the skirt is as wide as the bodice. Divide the gathers evenly and pin skirt to bodice.

19.Stitch the skirt to the main bodice. 20.Zigzag or serge the seam and press towards the bodice.

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog 21.Box pleated skirt 12 Fold the marks toward the middle and baste the pleat into place with a 0,7cm or 1/4” seam allowance. 22.Pin the skirt pieces to the main bodice peace and match up the middle of the skirt to the middle of the bodice. Also match up side seams. 23.Stitch the skirt to the main bodice. 24.Zigzag or serge the seam and press towards the bodice.

25. Match up the left back bodice piece (seen from above) and the left zipper piece right sides together. Match up the edge of the zipper and edge of the fabric. Align the zipper stop to the neckline seam and pin into place. Alternatively you can use wondertape to tape the zipper to your fabric. 26.Use your invisible zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the dress. Cut your threads so they can’t get caught in the zipper.

27 .Close the zipper. 28. Give a small cut where the zipper matches the waistline and where you stopped sewing at the end.

28 29.Open up your zipper again. 29 Pin the right zipper piece to the right back bodice piece the same way you did at the left side. Align the cut you made with the waistline.

Copyright KaatjeNaaisels & Bel’Etoile - All rights reserved Need help? facebook.be/kaatjenaaisels or facebook.be/beletoileblog 13 31 30.Stitch the zipper to the dress and cut threads. 31.Fold the lining over the neckline and pin on top of the zipper, putting it between main bodice and lining bodice (right sides together) Stitch down using a normal zipper foot starting at the neckline (where you left the 2cm unstitched in step 6) and ending at the waistline. 32.Clip corner. 33.Repeat for the other side.

34 34.In this step we’ll be closing the center back seam. Align both back skirt pieces right sides together and pin into place. Stitch down from the end of the zipper towards the hem. 35.Press center back seam open 36.Fold the hem 1cm or 3/8” towards the wrong side and press. Fold it again (1cm or 3/8”), press and stitch.

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