Island-Hopping in the Caribbean MARIGOT BAY Is One of the Safest and Most Picturesque Anchorages in the Caribbean
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This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. NOVEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES IN THE NEWS DOMINICA, BVI, ANGUILLA AND DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Capella in St. Lucia Island-Hopping in the Caribbean MARIGOT BAY is one of the safest and most picturesque anchorages in the Caribbean. Two-thirds of the way up the west coast of St. Lucia, it is a narrow inlet of jade-green water sheltered by steep, forested slopes. From here, yachts head north to Martinique or south to the Grenadines. The 124-room Capella Marigot Bay opened in August. Many of the 57 suites come with private pools; the Auriga spa features outdoor treatment rooms in treehouses; and restaurants include Brut, a sushi bar with panoramic Infinity pool of Zabuco Villa, Secret Bay views. Although there is no beach, activities © IMAGES DOMINICA include rain forest hikes, scuba diving, day sailing, THE WORD ‘CARIBBEAN’ CONVEYS A PROMISE OF WHITE SAND, AZURE WATERS, COOLING mixology lessons in the cocktails and spicy island cooking. But of course, the Caribbean Sea contains dozens of Rum Cave, and Caribbean cooking classes. islands, which offer a wide variety of landscapes and attractions. The trick is choosing the CAPELLAHOTELGROUP.COM right one. I’ve recommended places to friends who assured me that all they wanted was a quiet getaway — solitary beaches, long novels, simple food — only to discover later that This Month they had decamped to somewhere with bright lights, jumping bars and ample shopping. Caribbean Discoveries Contrasting new resorts — Our recent trip took us from the green, were obliged to go via the hub of San Juan, bracing from rain forest to beachfront mountainous and unspoiled island of Dominica to ourselves for whatever LIAT had in store. Colonial Mexico the dazzling sands of the Dominican Republic by Hotel discoveries, distinctive cuisine, cultural highlights way of the British Virgin Islands and Anguilla. Few Dominica travelers will hop around as we did, but doing so was Online This Month Read more hotel reviews from a reminder of the shortcomings of the inter-island e arrived in the late afternoon, with sufficient our trip to the highlands of airlines: Flights were canceled and departure times daylight to see why Dominica styles itself Mexico, plus craft-shopping W suggestions for Guadalajara, changed, often with no advance warning. Dominica the “Nature Island.” Volcanic in origin, it does Guanajuato and Morelia. has no direct service from the United States, so we not have the white beaches to be found elsewhere For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Zabuco Villa on a cliff at Secret Bay © IMAGES DOMINICA in the region. This has spared it the heedless Without question, the most desirable are the SIGHTSEEING development that has marred some of its neighbors. clifftop Zabuco Villas. At 110 feet above the sea, Rain Forest What Dominica does have are impressive peaks, their location alone would set them apart, but the some of them 5,000 feet high; a dozen spectacular architecture is breathtaking. Supported by four Splendors waterfalls; and dense tropical rain forests that allow concrete pedestals of sculptural grace, the upper THANKS TO ITS STEEP more than 1,000 species of plants and 172 species level seems to defy gravity and to float above the terrain and abundant rain- of birds to flourish. Almost one-third of the island ground. Open and pavilion-like, with floor-to-ceiling fall — about 40 inches a year — more than a dozen has been set aside as nature reserves. windows in the living room, the 1,400-square-foot significant waterfalls lace Because of the challenging terrain, roads pretty space includes a sea-facing deck, a kitchen fully Dominica’s jungle-clad much have to run around the coast. From a map, I equipped with German appliances (including a mountainsides. Many would have thought that the ride from the airport wine fridge), and a combined bed and bath, the are located in the Morne to our hotel would have been about 20 minutes, latter with Italian fixtures, a freestanding tub and Trois Pitons National Park in the southeast of but given all the twists and turns, it took well over a shower with six heads. On the ground level, there the island. Designated a an hour. This gave us the chance to chat with our is a plunge pool and a hammock. The beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage driver, who exhibited both considerable satisfaction materials impressed me greatly — warm Guyana site, the 17,000-acre that we had made our way to his homeland and greenheart and glowing furniture crafted from preserve also contains well-known Boiling Lake, optimism about its future. Dominican red cedar. the second-largest hot Part of that bright future will doubtless “Zing-Zing,” the two-bedroom villa, is done spring lake in the world. include the debuts of more adventure hotels, as in much the same style, although the view is less Energetic hikers opt for well as luxurious eco-resorts. We had come to impressive and there is a hot tub instead of a pool. a 75-minute trek through stay at Secret Bay, the first truly upscale property The hillside villas are duplexes, each with a kitchen, the rain forest to impres- sive Middleham Falls. on the island. Gregor Nassief, a man with strong living area and deck downstairs, and a bedroom and Alternatively, you can take roots on Dominica and an appreciation of its separate bath upstairs, reached via a spiral staircase. an undemanding stroll potential (backed by a successful business career Lovely as they are, they suffer in comparison with to the double cascade in Latin America), discovered an ideal spot for the Zabuco Villas. of Trafalgar Falls: the “Father,” at 125 feet, and development — a dramatic promontory on the Well in advance of our arrival, the hotel had sent the “Mother,” at 95 feet. island’s northwest coast situated between two a questionnaire asking about culinary preferences, The falls are reached beaches. To realize his vision, he turned to the drink choices and groceries we might want stocked from the visitor center distinguished Venezuelan architect Fruto Vivas, in the kitchen. All were waiting for us. There is no by a 15-minute walk on well-maintained trails to a who also happens to be his father-in-law. The results dining room or restaurant at Secret Bay; instead, viewing platform. We were are stunning: three one-bedroom clifftop villas; there is a dedicated cooking facility, where meals rewarded along the way one two-bedroom villa; and two hillside villas. All are prepared at your direction and brought to your with sightings of several have been executed with superb craftsmanship that villa by a staff member. For both lunch and dinner, hummingbird species. brings to mind the best resorts in Southeast Asia. we were given an array of choices. The food was 2 hideaway report | November 2014 delicious, among the best we’ve had in the Caribbean, archipelago that lies approximately 70 miles to the SPIRITS and the knock at the door at mealtimes triggered a east of Puerto Rico. Pavlovian response of happy anticipation. Among I have long recommended Peter Island. With the memorable dishes were grilled tuna steaks with five dazzling beaches and just 55 accommodations, a rich Creole sauce; crisp, puffy vegetable samosas; this is a romantic, unhurried getaway. Of late, and an island favorite of mine, goat curry over rice. however, I had received some complaints about the The unfailingly helpful staff advised us on service and the intrusion of sailors from visiting hiking, snorkeling and kayaking. We especially yachts, so a return visit seemed in order. enjoyed a visit to the double cascade of Trafalgar The 32 original chalets by the marina and the Falls (see box), followed by snorkeling at Champagne main restaurant are comfortable, but my strong Beach, so named for the geothermal gas that bubbles preference remains for the 20 Beach Front Junior up from the reef. Suites. These were refreshed not long ago, and I love Caribbean Dominica is an intriguing alternative to the more the interplay of stone walls, mahogany accents, bright Rums developed islands. Beach options are limited, but if fabrics and colorful prints. Baths come with walk-in Macoucherie The you are energetic, there are innumerable activities showers and whirlpool tubs. Lower-level rooms have Shillingford Estate on the and excursions. And for the more sedentary, there outdoor terraces and hammocks, while upper-level west coast of Dominica is always a plunge pool and a sublime view. rooms feature cathedral ceilings and large balconies. distills rum from sugar cane juice, using a water Families would find the three villas attractive: mill to crush the cane. I British Virgin Islands “Hawk’s Nest,” with three bedrooms; “Crow’s Nest,” found the regular bottling with four; and “Falcon’s Nest,” with six. — what is locally called here is a way to improve the phrase “Caribbean At the resort’s casual restaurant, Deadman’s a “red” rum — to be too rough on my palate. To island,” which is to preface it with the word Beach Bar & Grill, we relished exemplary fish tacos, T my surprise, I deemed the “private.” Following our exceptionally peaceful and made of grilled mahi mahi and accompanied by spiced iteration worthy; it relaxing stay on Dominica, we headed for two such chunky guacamole, tangy red cabbage and mango would be just the thing in a places, both in the British Virgin Islands, an idyllic slaw; as well as a first-class shrimp curry.