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NOVEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

IN THE NEWS DOMINICA, BVI, ANGUILLA AND DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Capella in St. Lucia Island-Hopping in the Caribbean MARIGOT BAY is one of the safest and most picturesque anchorages in the Caribbean. Two-thirds of the way up the west coast of St. Lucia, it is a narrow inlet of jade-green water sheltered by steep, forested slopes. From here, yachts head north to Martinique or south to the Grenadines. The 124-room Capella Marigot Bay opened in August. Many of the 57 suites come with private pools; the Auriga spa features outdoor treatment rooms in treehouses; and restaurants include Brut, a sushi bar with panoramic Infinity pool of Zabuco Villa, Secret Bay views. Although there is no beach, activities © IMAGES DOMINICA include rain forest hikes, scuba diving, day sailing, THE WORD ‘CARIBBEAN’ CONVEYS A PROMISE OF WHITE SAND, AZURE WATERS, COOLING mixology lessons in the cocktails and spicy island cooking. But of course, the Caribbean Sea contains dozens of Rum Cave, and Caribbean cooking classes. islands, which offer a wide variety of landscapes and attractions. The trick is choosing the CAPELLAHOTELGROUP.COM right one. I’ve recommended places to friends who assured me that all they wanted was a quiet getaway — solitary beaches, long novels, simple food — only to discover later that This Month they had decamped to somewhere with bright lights, jumping bars and ample shopping. Caribbean Discoveries Contrasting new resorts — Our recent trip took us from the green, were obliged to go via the hub of San Juan, bracing from rain forest to beachfront mountainous and unspoiled island of Dominica to ourselves for whatever LIAT had in store. Colonial the dazzling sands of the Dominican Republic by Hotel discoveries, distinctive cuisine, cultural highlights way of the British Virgin Islands and Anguilla. Few Dominica travelers will hop around as we did, but doing so was  Online This Month Read more hotel reviews from a reminder of the shortcomings of the inter-island e arrived in the late afternoon, with sufficient our trip to the highlands of airlines: Flights were canceled and departure times daylight to see why Dominica styles itself Mexico, plus craft-shopping W suggestions for Guadalajara, changed, often with no advance warning. Dominica the “Nature Island.” Volcanic in origin, it does Guanajuato and Morelia. has no direct service from the United States, so we not have the white beaches to be found elsewhere

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Zabuco Villa on a cliff at Secret Bay

© IMAGES DOMINICA

in the region. This has spared it the heedless Without question, the most desirable are the SIGHTSEEING development that has marred some of its neighbors. clifftop Zabuco Villas. At 110 feet above the sea, Rain Forest What Dominica does have are impressive peaks, their location alone would set them apart, but the some of them 5,000 feet high; a dozen spectacular architecture is breathtaking. Supported by four Splendors waterfalls; and dense tropical rain forests that allow concrete pedestals of sculptural grace, the upper THANKS TO ITS STEEP more than 1,000 species of plants and 172 species level seems to defy gravity and to float above the terrain and abundant rain- of birds to flourish. Almost one-third of the island ground. Open and pavilion-like, with floor-to-ceiling fall — about 40 inches a year — more than a dozen has been set aside as nature reserves. windows in the living room, the 1,400-square-foot significant waterfalls lace Because of the challenging terrain, roads pretty space includes a sea-facing deck, a kitchen fully Dominica’s jungle-clad much have to run around the coast. From a map, I equipped with German appliances (including a mountainsides. Many would have thought that the ride from the airport wine fridge), and a combined bed and bath, the are located in the Morne to our hotel would have been about 20 minutes, latter with Italian fixtures, a freestanding tub and Trois Pitons National Park in the southeast of but given all the twists and turns, it took well over a shower with six heads. On the ground level, there the island. Designated a an hour. This gave us the chance to chat with our is a plunge pool and a hammock. The beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage driver, who exhibited both considerable satisfaction materials impressed me greatly — warm Guyana site, the 17,000-acre that we had made our way to his homeland and greenheart and glowing furniture crafted from preserve also contains well-known Boiling Lake, optimism about its future. Dominican red cedar. the second-largest hot Part of that bright future will doubtless “Zing-Zing,” the two-bedroom villa, is done spring lake in the world. include the debuts of more adventure hotels, as in much the same style, although the view is less Energetic hikers opt for well as luxurious eco-resorts. We had come to impressive and there is a hot tub instead of a pool. a 75-minute trek through stay at Secret Bay, the first truly upscale property The hillside villas are duplexes, each with a kitchen, the rain forest to impres- sive Middleham Falls. on the island. Gregor Nassief, a man with strong living area and deck downstairs, and a bedroom and Alternatively, you can take roots on Dominica and an appreciation of its separate bath upstairs, reached via a spiral staircase. an undemanding stroll potential (backed by a successful business career Lovely as they are, they suffer in comparison with to the double cascade in Latin America), discovered an ideal spot for the Zabuco Villas. of Trafalgar Falls: the “Father,” at 125 feet, and development — a dramatic promontory on the Well in advance of our arrival, the hotel had sent the “Mother,” at 95 feet. island’s northwest coast situated between two a questionnaire asking about culinary preferences, The falls are reached beaches. To realize his vision, he turned to the drink choices and groceries we might want stocked from the visitor center distinguished Venezuelan architect Fruto Vivas, in the kitchen. All were waiting for us. There is no by a 15-minute walk on well-maintained trails to a who also happens to be his father-in-law. The results dining room or restaurant at Secret Bay; instead, viewing platform. We were are stunning: three one-bedroom clifftop villas; there is a dedicated cooking facility, where meals rewarded along the way one two-bedroom villa; and two hillside villas. All are prepared at your direction and brought to your with sightings of several have been executed with superb craftsmanship that villa by a staff member. For both lunch and dinner, hummingbird species. brings to mind the best resorts in Southeast Asia. we were given an array of choices. The food was

2 hideaway report | November 2014 delicious, among the best we’ve had in the Caribbean, archipelago that lies approximately 70 miles to the SPIRITS and the knock at the door at mealtimes triggered a east of Puerto Rico. Pavlovian response of happy anticipation. Among I have long recommended Peter Island. With the memorable dishes were grilled tuna steaks with five dazzling beaches and just 55 accommodations, a rich Creole sauce; crisp, puffy vegetable ; this is a romantic, unhurried getaway. Of late, and an island favorite of mine, goat curry over rice. however, I had received some complaints about the The unfailingly helpful staff advised us on service and the intrusion of sailors from visiting hiking, snorkeling and kayaking. We especially yachts, so a return visit seemed in order. enjoyed a visit to the double cascade of Trafalgar The 32 original chalets by the marina and the Falls (see box), followed by snorkeling at Champagne main restaurant are comfortable, but my strong Beach, so named for the geothermal gas that bubbles preference remains for the 20 Beach Front Junior up from the reef. Suites. These were refreshed not long ago, and I love Caribbean Dominica is an intriguing alternative to the more the interplay of stone walls, mahogany accents, bright Rums developed islands. Beach options are limited, but if fabrics and colorful prints. Baths come with walk-in Macoucherie The you are energetic, there are innumerable activities showers and whirlpool tubs. Lower-level rooms have Shillingford Estate on the and excursions. And for the more sedentary, there outdoor terraces and hammocks, while upper-level west coast of Dominica is always a plunge pool and a sublime view. rooms feature cathedral ceilings and large balconies. distills rum from sugar cane juice, using a water Families would find the three villas attractive: mill to crush the cane. I British Virgin Islands “Hawk’s Nest,” with three bedrooms; “Crow’s Nest,” found the regular bottling with four; and “Falcon’s Nest,” with six. — what is locally called here is a way to improve the phrase “Caribbean At the resort’s casual restaurant, Deadman’s a “red” rum — to be too rough on my palate. To island,” which is to preface it with the word Beach Bar & Grill, we relished exemplary fish , T my surprise, I deemed the “private.” Following our exceptionally peaceful and made of grilled mahi mahi and accompanied by spiced iteration worthy; it relaxing stay on Dominica, we headed for two such chunky , tangy red cabbage and mango would be just the thing in a places, both in the British Virgin Islands, an idyllic slaw; as well as a first-class shrimp curry. We also planter’s punch. British Navy Pusser’s Rum For 300 years, sailors in the British Royal Navy received a daily rum ration, which was doled out by the ship’s purser. In 1979, entrepreneur Charles Tobias secured the rights and formula and began British Navy Pusser’s Rum on Tortola in the BVI. I find it a splendid product, with notes of vanilla, toffee and a hint of orange.

Brugal XV Ron Reserva Exclusiva Made in the Dominican Republic since 1888, this rum There is a way to uses molasses as a base. improve the phrase The distillate is aged in American white oak ‘Caribbean island,’ barrels (formerly used for “ which is to preface it aging American whiskey), with the word ‘private.’ then rums from three to We headed for two such eight years old are blended places in the BVI. for the final product. The result is a clear amber spirit. I enjoy the butter- One of five beaches, and a Beach scotch character, with a Front Junior Suite at Peter Island presence of spicy orange. PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER It is a fine drink on its own.

November 2014 | hideaway report 3 Our accommodations reminded me of the Caribbean of bygone days: “ whitewashed walls, dark wood furniture ... Terrace at Guana Island, and entrance to The Club

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

enjoyed the food at the more formal restaurant, to the island to record animal and bird populations, SETTING SAIL Tradewinds, but to be frank, the setting isn’t up to and to check on the health of the waters and reefs.) Yachting the cuisine. The décor is bland and the lighting Whitewashed with blue doors, the seaview uninspiring. The place could use some livening up. lodgings bring to mind the Greek islands. The in the BVI In response to the specific complaints, I watched choice of accommodations varies from the 15 cottage I HAVE SAILED in the and listened carefully. Nothing I saw or heard gave rooms — all with private terraces, some with air British Virgin Islands on me cause for concern. We found the staff friendly, conditioning — to the recently refurbished Anegada many occasions. There helpful and professional, and the overall tenor of House Villa, which can sleep up to eight people; the are few more pleasant ways to spend a February the resort seemed to be happy. As for boaters, there one-bedroom North Beach Villa, with a saltwater day than cruising up were private craft anchored in Deadman’s Bay, but pool; the two-bedroom Harbour House Villa, with the 22-mile Sir Francis when the yachting folk came ashore on the resort’s Jacuzzi and pool; and the most sumptuous, Jost Drake Channel, which principal beach, they were immediately directed House Villa, with three bedroom suites, a large separates Tortola from a chain of smaller islands elsewhere for swimming. infinity pool and dedicated staff (this is the Jareckis’ to the south. The scenery home when they are in residence). is exquisite: Much of the uana Island lies 20 minutes north of Tortola. Our comfortable cottage reminded me of the archipelago is verdant GLike Peter Island, it is mostly undeveloped. Caribbean of bygone days: simple whitewashed and mountainous, but In the 18th century, two Quaker families settled walls decorated with old prints; dark wood fur- the sand is as white and powdery as that on coral here to cultivate cotton and sugar cane, evidence of niture (including a desk); a large walk-in closet; a islands such as Anguilla. which can be seen in the ruined sugar mill. In 1935, small bath with a separate shower; and a spacious The BVI comprises around a couple from Massachusetts bought the island and covered terrace with 180-degree views. We also 60 islands, of which only started building cottages. They attracted a varied found the main house, The Club, a congenial spot. 15 are inhabited. A yacht is therefore able to take crowd who were looking for somewhere different. The homey living room came with white walls, a you to countless pristine As one guest recalled, “There was no electricity, no beamed ceiling and rattan furniture. Just off the beaches and dive sites. hot water, but we all dressed for dinner.” lounge, a small library was filled with old books, The epicenter of maritime Forty years later, Henry and Gloria Jarecki from left-behind novels and a stack of games. In the activity is Road Town on New York purchased the island and upgraded the Tortola. However, the evenings, the staff set out trays of nibbles as guests Andrew Harper Travel accommodations and facilities while striving to congregated to recap the day. Several dining areas Office routinely works preserve its character and to restore its wildlife. made possible a variety of configurations, either with our Florida-based (Guana has more varieties of flora and fauna for groups of newfound friends or couples who travel partner All Yachts than any island of its size yet studied in the wished to dine alone. Breakfast and lunch are buffet Worldwide, which has an extensive range of both Caribbean. The restoration program has brought style — I particularly recall a delicious ballotine motor and sailing yachts back extirpated species such as the stout iguana, of chicken — and at lunch, a staff member presents in the Caribbean. the red-footed tortoise, the white-crowned pigeon a menu of dinner selections. All of the food ALLYACHTSWORLDWIDE.COM and the Caribbean flamingo. Scientists still come was well-prepared and simple in the best way.

4 hideaway report | November 2014 Several well-marked hiking trails thread after it opened in 1984. (This distinguished resort ISLAND DINING across the island. After one excursion, we headed has been closed for a comprehensive redesign and to the beach, which epitomized all that I want on was to reopen on November 1 under the Auberge a Caribbean trip: fine white sand; an overarching Resorts banner). Malliouhana anchors the east end pine for relief from the sun; azure waters with of Meads Bay; at the west end is the new 166-room snorkeling reefs just offshore; and a beach house Viceroy Anguilla. with changing rooms, a shower and a bar. There, There, the modern white buildings feature an attendant was on hand to arrange water skiing, interiors by acclaimed designer Kelly Wearstler. Along fishing and boating. A tennis court and croquet breezeways and hallways, gray-and-white striated lawn are nearby. marble is so omnipresent that the Anguillans refer I thoroughly enjoyed Guana Island, but it is to the resort as “Marble City.” As we accompanied Anguilla not in any modern sense luxurious. However, the a staff member to our suite, the angular structures Restaurants comfortable and unfussy rooms, the well-tended made us feel as though we were in an upscale South STAYING AT the Viceroy gardens and the gracious staff are all delightful. Beach complex rather than in the Caribbean. gave us a chance to revisit Our accommodations provided a four-poster two favorite restaurants Anguilla bed, a living room filled with comfortable modern on Meads Bay. couches, a kitchenette and small dining area. The Blanchards If you hose in search of luxury will find it on Anguilla. bath felt very much like part of a luxurious spa. The ever think of chucking it This low-lying limestone island is famous color palette featured subdued earth tones, which all to open a beach bar, T be sure to read “A Trip for some of the best beaches in the Caribbean. seemed antithetical to the Caribbean aesthetic. An to the Beach,” Bob and Development has been controlled, and there are expansive terrace with a plunge pool overlooked Melinda Blanchard’s tale no mega-resorts. True, hotels have spread across the ocean beyond. of their lives as Vermont- once-empty shores, but in many ways, the island is Thanks to an elevated location, the Viceroy’s based entrepreneurs who did just that in 1994. offers one of the best views on as low-key as it was when we first went to stay at Sunset Lounge I have enjoyed innumer- its original luxury property, Malliouhana, not long Anguilla. Nearby, Cobà, the resort’s main restaurant, able happy evenings in Blanchards. The more Exterior, lounge, and our suite at the Viceroy Anguilla formal dinner venue offers great shrimp and lobster cakes, and delicious blackened snapper on polenta, while the Beach Shack next door, which debuted in 2011, is ideal for an informal lunch. I greatly enjoyed my black beans and rice followed by an excellent rendition of a grilled Cubano sandwich with roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese and a zippy mayo. BLANCHARDS RESTAURANT.COM

Straw Hat This restau- rant has moved to the Frangipani Beach Resort on Meads Bay from its original home on Forest Bay because of uncer- tainty over a development project. I have always been a fan, my preferred meal being the seafood spring rolls with refreshing ponzu dipping sauce, and Anguillan grilled crayfish (little cousins to the spiny lobster). STRAWHAT.COM

SUITE AND LOUNGE PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER November 2014 | hideaway report 5 Caribbean Golf THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC has become the Caribbean’s leading golf destination. The best courses are at Puntacana and Cap Cana, and Casa de Campo, about 50 miles west on the southern coast. Together, they have seven 18-hole courses and two nine-hole layouts, designed by a roster of architects that includes Pete Dye and his son, P.B., as well as Tom Fazio and Beach, and our cottage at Eden Roc at Cap Cana

Jack Nicklaus. Perhaps PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER nowhere else is there such an extraordinary has coffered ceilings, dark walls and extraordinary concentration of water Dominican Republic holes. Among the 36 lighting fixtures that look like enormous sea urchins. holes on the Corales The service was crisp and confident. Anguilla is he new Eden Roc at Cap Cana opened in and La Cana courses known for its shellfish, and I enjoyed a perfectly T December 2012. A 34-suite resort, it is tucked at Puntacana, laid out cooked risotto filled with shrimp and generous away in a 30,000-acre development at the east end by Fazio and P.B. Dye, respectively, nine hug the chunks of lobster. of the island. With a mix of residences, a beach club, water. Over at Cap Cana, The perfect white sands of Meads Bay are a marina and the Punta Espada Jack Nicklaus golf the Nicklaus Punta Espada just a short walk from the main resort complex. course, Cap Cana is a tranquil and upscale enclave track also has nine holes En route, we passed a pool dedicated to families, within the wider Punta Cana resort area. on the ocean. And “Teeth of the Dog” at Casa de while on the beach, we found banks of towel-draped Located 20 minutes south of the international Campo, laid out by Hall of chaises longues, big umbrellas and a friendly airport, Eden Roc is an enclave of brightly painted Famer Pete Dye, boasts beach attendant with ice buckets of cold bottled cottages with up to four bedrooms. Done in shades seven holes that run along water. The electric-hued water could not have of pistachio, shell pink, canary and marine blue, they the coast, spray flying been more inviting. affirm their Caribbean setting. Arrayed in an oval high as waves break on rocks bordering the tees I admired the Viceroy for its attention to around a central lagoon-like pool, each is set on its and greens. Teeth of the detail, excellent service and dramatic location. The own landscaped plot to ensure privacy, with a back Dog is one of Dye’s career international design is done in the best of taste, but terrace and small private pool. From the outside, triumphs, and a fixture on at times, I felt that I could have been anywhere. they do not appear as large as they actually are, so every list of the world’s Top 100 layouts. I have I’m not advocating that every property in the we were surprised when we walked into our Junior particular affection for Caribbean be decorated with indigenous colors and Suite to find a vaulted ceiling and a wall of windows. a four-hole stretch on materials, but a greater sense of place would make We loved the playful décor, with tables, dressers the front side, Nos. 5-8, the Viceroy that much more enjoyable. Overall, it and chairs accented in the prevailing pistachio of that snakes along the the exterior. A four-poster bed, light cream walls Caribbean. In addition, struck me as a fine resort for families — there is Nos. 15, 16 and 17 on the a kids’ club with programs for children and teens and polished coral stone floors with intricate inlays back are as scenic as any — but couples may feel more at home at either the all helped to create an exceptionally attractive and holes at Cypress Point or new 44-room Malliouhana or the 69-room Cap congenial environment. Sophisticated lighting and Pebble Beach. Juluca, a longtime favorite of Harper subscribers. temperature controls could be handled manually

6 hideaway report | November 2014 GRAND or by a wall-mounted iPad. We found the bath to BAHAMA I. be one of the most appealing we’ve seen in some Beach at Secret Bay time, with facing vanities, a soaking tub next to a window, a large walk-in shower and an additional U.S.A. ABACO ISLAND outdoor shower area. At check-in, efficiently handled by attractive staff, we were presented with keys to our own golf cart. This we used primarily to get to the Caletón ELEUTHERA ISLAND

Beach Club, a splendid facility with a large pool and PHOTO BY PAUL HUYNH NEW HOTELS AT A GLANCE PROVIDENCE a smaller children’s pool located just steps from the powdery sands and crystalline water. Although it Secret Bay A92 MAP REF. 1 LIKE Superb accommodations; excellent food; the sense of being in a world of your own. DISLIKE The BAHAMAS CAT ISLAND ANDROS is small, the resort’s beach is a perfect semicircular most accessible beach is rocky and uninviting. GOOD TO KNOW Private chefs can be engaged to cook ISLAND cove flanked by rocky outcroppings. Multiple palapas in your villa, and cookery classes that showcase traditional Dominican cuisine are offered.TWO-BEDROOM VILLA, $930 (WINTER HIGH SEASON); ZABUCO VILLA, $1,057. ROSS BOULEVARD, DOMINICA. TEL. (767) 445-4444. SAN SALVADOR and chaises longues provided idyllic venues for SECRETBAY.DM  RUM CAY GREAT EXUMA reading, resting and sipping the drinks brought to Peter Island Resort & Spa A94 MAP REF. 2 us by waiters. LIKE The resort never seems crowded, as it spreads over a wide area; fine white-sand beaches. DISLIKE The slightly inconvenient walk from the beach to the main restaurant and pool. GOOD TO The seaside restaurant, La Palapa, is a breezy KNOW If you are traveling via St. Thomas (as opposed to Beef Island, Tortola), arrive before 2:30 p.m. LONG ISLAND pavilion that serves superb seafood. We especially on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday and you can ride the 90-minute Peter Island ferry. BEACH FRONT CROOKED ISLAND JUNIOR SUITE, $1,325 (WINTER HIGH SEASON; MEAL PLAN OPTIONS AVAILABLE). ROAD TOWN, TORTOLA, BVI. enjoyed grilled octopus, a spicy tuna roll, a well- TEL. (284) 495-2000. PETERISLAND.COM  LONG CAY balanced pasta dish with local Sanchez prawns in Guana Island A91 MAP REF. 3 ACKLINS LIKE Low-key charm; traditional Caribbean atmosphere; utter tranquility. DISLIKE Some rooms lack ISLAND MAYAGUANA ISLAND a yellow curry sauce, and grilled grouper with a air-conditioning. GOOD TO KNOW If you are in search of luxurious accommodations and lavish baths, lemon/white wine/caper sauce. Mediterraneo, the this property will not appeal to you. SEAVIEW COTTAGE, $1,250 (WINTER HIGH SEASON); VILLA, FROM $2,350; ENTIRE ISLAND (36 GUESTS), FROM $22,150. MUSKMELON BAY, BVI. TEL. (284) 494-2354. GUANA.COM  ISLE OF YOUTH TURKS & CAICOS resort’s principal restaurant, provides a fine setting ISLANDS (UK) Viceroy Anguilla A91 MAP REF. 4 LITTLE INAGUA ISLAND for delicious food. We could not resist the lasagnetta LIKE Delicious food; excellent service; fine beach. DISLIKE Large size (166 rooms) on a small, low-key island; international design and resulting lack of a sense of place. GOOD TO KNOW The staff have G R E of spider crab and leeks served with seafood ragout, A T E R encyclopedic local knowledge, which they are only too happy to share. VICEROY KING, $800 (WINTER A N GREAT INAGUA ISLAND T and I also enjoyed grilled snapper with truffles and HIGH SEASON); VICEROY STUDIO OCEAN VIEW, $1,050. BARNES BAY, WEST END, ANGUILLA. TEL. (264) 497-7000. I L L VICEROYHOTELSANDRESORTS.COM  E S mashed potatoes. In addition to the beach facilities, Eden Roc Eden Roc at Cap Cana A95 MAP REF. 5 LIKE Privacy of the cottage suites; solicitous staff. DISLIKE Although the road to the beach club isn’t CUBA has a spa with six treatment cabanas, whirlpools, crowded, you do have to be wary of regular cars while driving your golf cart. GOOD TO KNOW The saunas, steam rooms and rainfall showers. There property is only 20 minutes from the airport, which has direct service to the United States. JUNIOR SUITE, LITTLE CAYMAN CAYMAN BRAC FROM $1,105 (WINTER HIGH SEASON). CAP CANA, JUANILLO, PUNTA CANA, PROVINCIA LA ALTAGRACIA, DOMINICAN is a well-equipped gym and a children’s club. This REPUBLIC. TEL. (809) 469-7469. EDENROCCAPCANA.COM  GRAND CAYMAN CAYMAN ISLANDS (UK) lovely, tranquil place is a notable addition to the preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information A on these and 30 additional recommendations in the Caribbean. roster of the Caribbean’s leading resorts. H HAITI BRITISH VIRGIN HISPANIOLA A TLANTIC OCEAN DOMINICAN ISLANDS REPUBLIC 5 ANGUILLA JAMAICA PUERTO 4 RICO U.S. VIRGIN ST. BARTHS ISLANDS ST. MARTIN ANEGADA BARBUDA

L E S A N T I L G R E A T E R A TLANTIC OCEAN ANEGADA (U.K.) ST. KITTS & NEVIS ANTIGUA

BRITISH L E 15 MI VIRGIN ISLANDS S MONTSERRAT 0 S GUANA E 0 15 KM R JOST VAN ISLAND 3 DYKE VIRGIN A GORDA N GUADELOUPE TORTOLA T I L

L

CAR IBBEAN SEA E ST. THOMAS 2 S HONDURAS ST. JOHN PETER ISLAND 050100 MI 1 DOMINICA 0 50 100 KM U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

MARTINIQUE CAYOS MISKITOS Caribbean Sea ST. CROIX (U.S.) November 2014 | hideaway report 7 ST LUCIA

ISLA DE PROVIDENCIA (COLOMBIA) ST VINCENT & BARBADOS THE GRENADINES

NICARAGUA ISLA DE SAN ANDRES (COLOMBIA) L E S Buck Island (NETH.) ARUBA S E R A N T IL L E Saint Croix East Point NETHER(U.S.)LANDS ANTILLES (NETH.)S

Southwest Cape ISLAS LOS ROQUES ISLA BLANQUILLA GRENADA

ISLA ORCHILA

ISLA DE MARGARITA TRINIDAD & ISLA LA TORTUGA TOBAGO

COLOMBIA

COSTA RICA ARCHIPIELAGO DE BOCAS DEL TORO P ANAMA

I. DEL REY

VE NEZUELA WARM HOSPITALITY AND DISTINCTIVE CUISINE Colonial Cities of Mexico’s Central Highlands

View of Guanajuato from El Pípila monument

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

ALTHOUGH I LOVE TO RELAX IN CABO AND ON THE RIVIERA MAYA AS MUCH AS ANYONE, Safety Mexico’s cool central highlands have provided some of my most memorable experiences Concerns of the country. The area sheltered advanced civilizations for centuries before the arrival THE STARK LANGUAGE of the conquistadors, and ancient local traditions inspire Mexican culture to this day. Of of the State Department’s course, the Spanish influence is even clearer, especially in the many atmospheric colonial Mexico Travel Warning, combined with media cities that retain historic cores dating to the 16th and 17th centuries. reports on the country’s On this occasion, we bypassed Mexico City by plazas, intriguing museums and ornate churches. battle with the drug trade, are enough to unnerve flying directly into Guadalajara and out of Morelia, I especially liked the Museo de Arte Sacro de even the most intrepid visiting Guanajuato and Lake Pátzcuaro in between. Guadalajara for its luminous José de Ibarra paintings traveler. Clearly, Mexico On such a trip, I recommend that you engage a and roof terrace overlooking the Plaza de Armas. is not a place to take driver/guide to eliminate the stress of navigating Colonial treasures aside, what I’ll most remember unnecessarySea risks. But roads that can be poorly marked. about the city is the unforced friendliness and visitorsof are extremely unlikelyCortez to encounter hospitality of the inhabitants. People in the stylish problems in places where Guadalajara restaurants, shops and cafés seemed pleased to see BAJAI recommend hotels. In American visitors, and often took time to chat with CALIFORNIAfact, the Travel Warning uadalajara makes an excellent place to begin us. Guadalajara is also a good base for day trips to does not apply to most areas of interest. During Gan exploration of colonial Mexico. Much of nearby tequila distilleries and picturesque Lake our recent trip, we did not the city is modern, but the historic center has leafy Chapala, a magnet for expatriate artists. feel unsafe, even walking Gulf around cities after dark. ZACATECAS Quinta Real Guadalajara of There were too many Mexico CANCUN families and couples out GUANAJUATO 1 HR enjoying themselves. SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE 15 3 HRS That said, the State S YUCATAN GUADALAJARA HR 3 HR RIVIERA Department does warn 3 HR S 2.5 S PENINSULA MAYA against travel in rural MORELIA 45 3.5 H PATZCUARO N RS Michoacán, including Lake MI Pátzcuaro, and I can’t MEXICO CITY PACIFIC recommend ignoring this 0 200 MI Caribbean OCEAN advice as we did. 0 200 KM Sea

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER 8 hideaway report | November 2014 We began our journey with a stay at my longtime grand colonial churches and mansions adorned with recommendation, the Quinta Real Guadalajara. wrought-iron balconies, dating from the period when This 76-room hacienda-like property dates only to wealth from nearby silver mines flooded Guanajuato. 1986, but our Gran Clase Suite had great character. Nowadays home to an important university, Two wooden Corinthian columns demarcated a the brightly painted city has expanded from its separate living area with a gold-hued velvet brocade original valley setting up the surrounding slopes. love seat. Marble-topped nightstands flanked the This has created a spectacular urban landscape king bed, at the foot of which stood a wrought-iron best seen from the hillside El Pípila monument. To glass-topped dining table. The travertine and pink The center relieve traffic congestion, the civic authorities have marble bath was pretty, if not especially large. of Guanajuato is dug dozens of tunnels through the hills, forming a However, the smoked mirror paneling on the walls the wedge-shaped complicated underground road network that is all “ Jardín de la Unión, behind the writing desk and the brownish wall-to- but incomprehensible to drivers from elsewhere. wall carpeting were clear reminders of the decade surrounded by Fortunately, the city is a great deal easier to navigate in which the hotel was built. restaurant patios on foot. We had a grand time simply ambling around The 1980s were nowhere to be found in the and perfectly Guanajuato and visiting museums such as the Casa splendidly renovated indoor/outdoor restaurant trimmed Indian Diego Rivera, the birthplace of the famous 20th- and bar, which featured parquet floors, exposed laurel trees. century artist; the wonderful Museo Iconográfico del stone walls, chic Provençal-style furnishings and vibrant handpainted ceilings that could have adorned a palace in Pompeii. The dishes we tried were excellent, notably some crunchy duck served with four dipping salsas, and a pork chop with a tamarind-tequila glaze and a side of flavorful mashed chayote. The restaurant’s professional service regrettably didn’t extend to the small pool. A waiter greeted us as we passed by on our way to the loungers, but neither he nor any of his colleagues walked up the steps to ask whether we might care An Idyllic Villa on Lake Pátzcuaro for a drink. Thereafter, we took to relaxing in the PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER canopied daybeds dotting the mature courtyard WE CONCLUDED OUR ITINERARY with a stay on the shore of Lake Pátzcuaro, the gardens adjacent to the restaurant and bar. heartland of the Purépecha, an indigenous people the Aztecs never managed to subdue. It is possible to explore this region as a day trip from Morelia, but I highly recommend spending two or three nights at the remarkable Hacienda Ucazanaztacua, making excur- Guanajuato sions to the lake’s islands, the colonial city of Pátzcuaro, the copper center of Santa Clara del Cobre and the ancient pyramids at Tzintzuntzan and Ihuatzio. he three-hour drive from Guadalajara to Rising from a steep bluff, this six-room retreat is the vision of owner Rafael Pereznares García. After purchasing the land, he and a force of Purépecha workers spent seven years Guanajuato was along a well-maintained T constructing the resort. Next to the main adobe villa, a wide terrace with an iridescent- highway through rolling countryside punctuated by green infinity pool affords sensational views. Inside, the décor reflects García’s flair for mesquite and acacia trees. As it was summertime, the dramatic. The main lounge’s fireplace faces a white sofa and a unique glass-topped brief afternoon showers kept the air fresh and the dining table supported by monkeys woven using reeds from the lake. Opt for the “Rey Hirepan” suite on the ground floor or my favorite, the “Reyna Ireri” suite directly above landscape green. Because of the altitude, daytime it. Accessed through a pair of 16th-century Chinese doors, Reyna Ireri has vaulted ceil- temperatures never rose above the low 80s during ings, a woodburning fireplace and a wraparound balcony with a stupendous panorama of our trip, and nights sometimes required a sweater a dozen extinct volcanoes on the opposite shore, clad in shimmering jungle and wreathed or light jacket. It proved a very comfortable time with clouds. We could also enjoy the view from the window above the Jacuzzi tub in the of year for a visit. bath, where a gold glass sink set into a carved stone capital competed for attention. García trained the staff members himself, and their professionalism would be a credit to The center of Guanajuato is the wedge-shaped any luxury hotel. On the first night of our stay, we overheard our host turn down a last- Jardín de la Unión, surrounded by restaurant patios minute dinner reservation for 10 people. “I want you to feel like this is your home,” García and a wide ring of perfectly trimmed Indian laurel explained to us. Would that it were. H trees. These form an immense living umbrella Hacienda Ucazanaztacua A94 sheltering the park benches beneath. Many of the LIKE Sensational lake views; anticipatory service; the immaculate infinity pool. DISLIKE For lack of anything more substantial, I would have liked more hooks in the bath. GOOD TO KNOW The rooms colorful adjacent streets are too narrow for vehicles, are not air-conditioned, but because of the altitude, nights can be surprisingly chilly. No television, but making them ideal for leisurely strolls. The cobbled Wi-Fi is complimentary. REY HIREPAN OR REYNA IRERI, $350. DOMICILIO CONOCIDO S/N, LAGO DE PÁTZCUARO  lanes occasionally open onto broad plazas fronted by ENFRENTE A LA ISLA LA PACANDA, PÁTZCUARO. TEL. (52) 443-204-1457. HACIENDAUCAZANAZTACUA.COM

November 2014 | hideaway report 9 Quijote, dedicated to art inspired by Cervantes’ great the older section, “Luisa” also has a balcony with a novel; and the macabre Museo de las Momias, the Itinerary memorable view. Our Master Suite, “Mariana,” was final resting place of dozens of Guanajuato citizens Extension located just below, giving it a similar outlook but mummified in the warm, dry climate. less privacy, since our accommodations were level ONE OF MY FAVORITE Though it is a 15-minute walk from the center, I colonial cities in Mexico, with a large public patio. greatly enjoyed my stay at the Villa María Cristina, San Miguel de Allende, Inside, our suite featured ornate plaster molding, which comprises turn-of-the-century buildings lies just 60 miles east of wood-laminate flooring, butter-hued walls and connected by a graceful series of loggias and patios. Guanajuato. A picturesque traditional wood furnishings upholstered in olive place, it, too, has steep The reception and jewel box of a restaurant occupy cobblestone streets, pretty and cream. I particularly liked the bath, which had a 19th-century townhouse fronting the street. The houses and grand a separate tub and spacious shower stall, as well as original section of the property has 13 rooms, 17th-century Spanish Spanish-style painted floor tiles. Suites in the new complemented by a mountainview roof terrace with architecture, as well as wing come with similarly attractive traditional décor. an exuberant and festive a Jacuzzi and sun loungers, and a spa containing atmosphere. No new hotels Only the restaurant proved slightly disappointing. an indoor pool. A new annex in back opened just have opened to compete The spiciness of my octopus appetizer crowded out weeks ago, adding 23 more accommodations facing with my two favorites in all other flavors, and though my arrachera (flank a large outdoor pool, plus two restaurants and 10 town, the 37-room Belmond steak) was quite flavorful, it wasn’t as tender as I spa treatment rooms. Casa de Sierra Nevada and had hoped. Aside from those quibbles, I found the the 67-room Rosewood San Some of the best suites are to be found in Miguel de Allende, both of Villa María Cristina to be a gracious hideaway, and the new annex, notably “Pía,” “Nat,” “Greta” and which have panoramic roof the new annex will add to its appeal as a city resort. “Isabella,” all of which have terraces or balconies terraces and inviting garden overlooking the pool and the mountain beyond. In swimming pools. also checked in on the Quinta Las Acacias, I a five-minute walk away and similarly housed within a converted 19th-century mansion and several modern buildings. When I first stayed at this 16-room property, it had no competitors in the city. Now, with the Villa María Cristina nearby, it needs to step up its game. The dark lounge behind reception felt oppressive with its Mexican-Victorian furnishings PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER and décor, and the Mezcalería bar Atalaya drove Sea bass at Restaurant El Sacromonte and róbalo (snook) fillet at El Jardín de los Milagros us away with a loud television and harsh lighting. Regional Restaurant Discoveries Our suite, “La China Poblana,” proved comfortable, with a mountainview balcony, canopied IS FAR MORE SOPHISTICATED than is often assumed. Each king bed, cavernous shower stall, onyx sinks and a region has its own specialties, and ingredients that are fresh, local and seasonal. huge sunken Jacuzzi tub. But the layout was odd, Restaurant El Sacromonte Set in the nightlife neighborhood of Chapultepec in and some decorative touches such as the headless Guadalajara, this colorful restaurant serves upscale cuisine inspired by recipes from a variety of Mexican regions. I enjoyed a refreshing and light cold avocado soup with yogurt, mannequin clad in traditional costume were not watermelon and mint; and a main course of sea bass from the nearby Careyes Coast to my taste. We had a pleasant enough stay at the served on an okra-like cactus paddle and topped with a rich pumpkin-seed . CALLE Quinta Las Acacias, but we never stopped wishing PEDRO MORENO 1398, AMERICANA, GUADALAJARA. TEL. (52) 333-825-5447. SACROMONTE.COM.MX we were back at the Villa María Cristina. El Jardín de los Milagros A short taxi ride from downtown Guanajuato, the leafy “Garden of Miracles” makes a lovely setting for a leisurely lunch. The young chef carefully explained each of the nine courses on the tasting menu. Although the creative presenta- Morelia tions were contemporary, his passion for local traditions was obvious. I especially liked the “cappuccino,” a savory cream of botil beans topped with tortilla foam and charred tortilla ince we had recently visited the popular city of crumbs; and a delicate róbalo (snook) fillet topped with an asparagus-spinach sauce. S San Miguel de Allende, which lies 90 minutes CALLE ALHÓNDIGA 80, GUANAJUATO. TEL. (52) 473-732-9366. ELJARDINDELOSMILAGROS.COM.MX east of Guanajuato, we turned south instead, driving Lu Cocina Michoacana Simply called “Lu” by Morelians, this restaurant ranks among three hours through undulating green countryside the city’s best. Chef Lucero Soto digs deep into Michoacán cuisine, creating contempo- to Morelia, a city of around a million inhabitants. rary dishes with a strong sense of place. We selected the tasting menu, which started There, the grid of the colonial center occupies a with three mezcals distilled from the local wild cupreata agave, and cotija cheeses of various ages. Tostadas topped with fresh tuna, arugula and spicy mole followed, along broad hilltop. Some of Morelia’s low-rise buildings with a “seasonal soup” of mushrooms and al dente vegetables. And I loved the grilled lamb are brightly painted, but most of the façades are chops with a zesty peanut mole, accompanied by a -like corunda. PORTAL HIDALGO hewn from the local pink-hued cantera limestone. 229, CENTRO HISTÓRICO, MORELIA. TEL. (52) 443-313-1328. HOTELCASINO.COM.MX Colonial-era churches glitter with lavish decoration

10 hideaway report | November 2014 — the interior of the Santuario de Guadalupe looks like a Fabergé egg — and museums such as the Palacio Clavijero host well-curated art exhibitions. The arcaded palaces of Morelia’s former nobility ring the heart of the city, a grand rectangle formed by the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and the Plaza Melchor Ocampo. Nowadays, these arcades overflow with restaurant and café tables, ideal for people- watching, and several of the palaces have been converted into atmospheric hotels. Casa Grande occupies an early 18th-century mansion, which remained a private residence until 2008. The building underwent a thoughtful and thorough restoration before emerging as a 12-room hotel. Though all the wood beams supporting the Teatro Juarez and Templo de San Diego in Guanajuato PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER ceilings had to be replaced, the property retains many period details, including painted neoclassical friezes uncovered during the prolonged renovations. Owner Fernando Santiago Rodríguez takes justifi- able pride in the result. We encountered him in the bar one evening, where he politely inquired whether we were enjoying our stay. Having chatted with us about the creation of the hotel, he escorted us up to the roof terrace — used, alas, only for special events — which affords a spectacular panorama of the Morelia skyline. There, we had an unobstructed view of fireworks bursting Pool and terrace at Villa María Cristina above the cathedral, a display held every Saturday and made even more memorable on this occasion HOTELS AT A GLANCE by a radiant full moon. I recommend collecting Quinta Real Guadalajara A90 LIKE The restaurant’s spectacular design and excellent food; the well-kept gardens. DISLIKE The glasses of wine from the bar before enjoying the dated decorative accents; the extra charge for Wi-Fi. GOOD TO KNOW Request a room on an 8:45 p.m. show. Directly beneath the roof terrace, upper floor for more privacy.MASTER SUITE, $240; GRAN CLASE SUITE, $290. AV. MÉXICO 2727, COL. VALLARTA NORTE, GUADALAJARA. TEL. (52) 333-669-0600. QUINTAREAL.COM  with fine views of the Plaza de Armas and the Villa María Cristina A94 cathedral, the chic La Aldaba restaurant serves LIKE The graceful 19th-century architecture; our spacious bath; the mountain views; the chic spa. excellent international cuisine with Mediterranean DISLIKE The pretty but inconsistent restaurant; the slow Wi-Fi. GOOD TO KNOW Accommodations in the new wing come with the same attractive traditional style as those in the original buildings. JUNIOR and Mexican inflections. SUITE, $390; MASTER SUITE, $450. PASEO DE LA PRESA DE LA OLLA 76, GUANAJUATO. TEL. (52) 473-731-2182.  None of the rooms at Casa Grande has a view VILLAMARIACRISTINA.NET Quinta Las Acacias 89 of the square. Nos. 8 through 12 are on the second LIKE The gorgeous cactus garden; the mountain views from our balcony; the helpful staff. floor overlooking Calle Allende, while others face the DISLIKE The oppressive atmosphere of the public spaces; the lack of ambience in the bar. GOOD TO KNOW The restaurant may feel old-fashioned, but it serves flavorful and homey regional back courtyard, one side of which is covered with a classics. SUITE, $290; MASTER SUITE, $315. PASEO DE LA PRESA 168, GUANAJUATO. TEL. (52) 473-731-1517. thriving wall garden. Rooms 1 through 3 are on the QUINTALASACACIAS.COM.MX ground floor, which makes them darker and more Casa Grande A93 LIKE The stylish renovation; the fashionable restaurant; the immaculate housekeeping; the location on subject to noise than the accommodations above. We the main square. DISLIKE Though the roof terrace has spectacular views, it has no seating or service occupied Master Suite 6 surveying the courtyard, except for private events. GOOD TO KNOW The table with the most striking view is on the far right of the restaurant. JUNIOR SUITE, $180; MASTER SUITE, $225. PORTAL MATAMOROS 98, CENTRO HISTÓRICO, MORELIA. which came with a beamed double-height ceiling TEL. (52) 443-313-2000. CASAGRANDEMORELIA.COM.MX  and a massive stone arch dividing the living and Villa Montaña A91 sleeping areas. Armchairs and a headboard done in LIKE The sweeping vistas of Morelia; the beautiful gardens; the large spa; the bar/restaurant’s panoramic terrace; the sophisticated contemporary Mexican menu; our woodburning fireplace. dark green leather stood out against the black doors DISLIKE Our dated brown Ultrasuede sofa; the bath’s dim lighting; the small shower-tub combination. GOOD TO KNOW There is no air conditioning, but cool evenings and screened windows make it of the built-in closets and hardwood floors. Acid- unnecessary. JUNIOR SUITE, $150; MASTER SUITE, $195. PATZIMBA 201, COL. VISTA BELLA, MORELIA. TEL. (52) green and silver wallpaper dramatically accented 443-314-0231. VILLAMONTANA.COM.MX  the shower-only bath. The design succeeded in being preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information A on these and three additional recommendations in Mexico’s colonial cities. stylishly contemporary while leaving no doubt that

November 2014 | hideaway report 11 LAST WORD A Gift of the World

FOR THE PAST YEAR, I have been engaged in a comprehensive revamp of The Andrew Harper Collection. The format has changed; more than Saltillo tile floors and traditional tejamanil 1,000 hotel entries have ceilings gave the suite character. been meticulously checked; the restaurant coverage View of Morelia from the roof terrace at Casa Grande has been expanded; and “ and details of our suite at Villa Montaña numerous maps have

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER been added. In addition, I have included hundreds of Mexico’s Central Highlands CONTINUED Notebook entries: snippets of travel wisdom acquired we were staying in a colonial-era palace. Nor did grounds from the small dining area on its terrace, over 35 years of constant the unfailingly professional service disappoint. In as well as from an indoor breakfast nook. Saltillo globe-trotting. The other particular, the bellman Jorge spoke excellent English tile floors and traditionaltejamanil ceilings, covered day, I received the prototype and proved consistently helpful. with thin, hand-hewn pine shingles, gave the suite of the handsome black box that has been designed character, as did copper vases from nearby Santa to contain the 12 booklets. f memorable views, an outdoor pool and a smartly Clara del Cobre, framed etchings of birds, lamps Iappointed spa are more important than a central made from painted milk cans, an antique wood location, the Villa Montaña is a better choice than trunk and an Oriental rug. After dinner each night, the Casa Grande. This atmospheric property stands we would relax with our books as a fire crackled in on a hillside with sweeping vistas of central Morelia, the fireplace, and the distant stone towers of the a 10-minute drive from most sights of interest. A cathedral glowed golden against the night sky. H fine restaurant is important for a property so far  Read more hotel reviews of our Mexico highlands trip online. from the center, and I relished my fresh mixed- seafood ceviche, as well as perfectly cooked beef ‘Andrew Harper’s Paris’ Updated tenderloin in a hibiscus glaze with squash blossoms AN EXPANDED AND IMPROVED version and chopped cactus. of my Paris app can now be downloaded It occurred to me that Amid landscaped grounds, two-story casitas free from the iTunes Store. This personal this boxed set — the most guide features new hotels, restaurants, comprehensive and reliable contain the 36 accommodations, the best of which shops and attractions, as well as touring suggestions guide to worldwide luxury have broad terraces with city views (request a in surrounding departments such as Ile-de-France and travel in existence — would suite on the second floor). Our suite, 107, afforded Normandy. I sincerely hope that you will find the app make an ideal gift. So, in this a compelling panorama of Morelia and the hotel useful on your next visit to this most beautiful of cities. holiday season, subscribers will be able to purchase the The Hideaway Report enjoys a monthly audience of more than 23,000 readers. STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION. Collection for their friends 1. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 2. Publication Number: 0884-7622; 3. Filing Date: September 12, 2014; 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly; 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12; 6. Annual Subscription Price: US$195; 7. Complete Mailing Address: 1601 Rio Grande, Suite 410, at a cost of $150 plus Austin, TX 78701; 8. Contact Person and Telephone: Meta Carson, (512) 904-7348; 9. Publisher’s Name and Address: Lorelei Calvert (same address shipping. as above), Editor’s Name and Address: Andrew Harper (same address as above), Managing Editor’s Name and Address: Meta Carson (same address as above); 10. Owner’s Name and Address: (1) R. Steven Hicks, 1703 W. Fifth Street, Suite 800, Austin, TX 78703 (2) Gregory S. Marchbanks, 600 Congress Avenue, Suite 200, Austin, TX 78703; 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: n/a; 12. Tax Status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months; 13. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2014; 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Travel Newsletter; Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies – 13,837/14,361, b. Paid Circulation: (1) Mailed Outside County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 6,915/11,102 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 68/207 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® – 294/426 (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS – 2,284/0, c. Total Paid Distribution – 9,561/11,735, d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through Website Exclusives the USPS – 0/0, (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail – 3,805/2,415, e. Total Free or Nominal Rate of Distribution – 3,805/2,415, Find additional stories, my trip f. Total Distribution – 13,366/14,150, g. Copies Not Distributed – 294/211, h. Total – 13,837/14,361, i. Percent Paid – 71.5/82.9. videos and more photography Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated throughout the month on our travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for website. Look for these symbols in all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX print and visit The Hideaway Report 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, at AndrewHarper.com. Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096;  = slideshow  = video WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. = additional stories Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Kelly Zhu Illustrator Melissa Colson 