Issue No. 221 Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 ORDER DELIVERY TO Mikser House How Ratko's Magnificent YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 eyes new salon became a movie festival [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 venue in cut above opens with BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Dorćol the rest renewed purpose

Page 6 Page 9 Page 13 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent China Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Belgrade makeover: EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser opens - - - Grand revamp or fantasy? newNEWS Announced plans Belgrade for the large-scale bankNEWS as refurbishment of “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: the Serbian capital Balkan party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. have been broadly hub

wellcomed - but page 10 questions about Beijing sees its the cost and new Bank of China branch,

overall strategy hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - just opened linger. a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W

in Belgrade, as June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Ivana NIKOLIĆ forming part of a Gordana ANDRIĆ strategy aimed at page 5 elgrade city and Serbian penetrating Balkan state officials say the Serbian capital is about and European to turn into a huge con- struction site this year. markets. conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the When the dust settles After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party fromB works at the sites across the city, Gordana ANDRIĆ E they predict the emergence of a shiny new Belgrade with a completely differ- he Bank of China, one of ent appearance. the five largest banks in Refurbishment of Ušće Park, a huge the world, opened its Ser- Friday • June 13 2008 park in New Belgrade next to where the bian branch on January Sava and Danube rivers meet, is the lat- 21st. est announced plan. TIn addition to serving the needs of Chinese and Serbian companies, it will THIS ISSUE OF

act as the bank's main hub for conduct- Belgrade Insight

Continued on pages 2 and 3 BY: IS SUPPORTED The plans announced by Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali have drawn mixed reactions. Photo: Beta ing business with other Balkan coun- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic tries and Greece, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Guoli Tian, chairman of the bank, said at the opening ceremony that opening the branch was one of the Albania's old activists ponder steps that the bank was taking to meet the "rising demands" of economic co- operation between Serbia and China. new political revolution Tian added that the bank stood ready to give its contribution to China's "One Belt, One Road" initiative. new political establishment - but not "We don't deserve to be ruled by the Experts say the opening of the bank Students and activists who participated him. kind of people that we have today in is just the latest effort by China to move in the overthrow of Albania's brutal Disappointed with the new politi- parliament," he added. forward its strategy of expanding on cal elite, which in his opinion has not Like many Albanians, Spahiu be- global markets, adding that Serbia, communist regime 26 years ago are lived up to the hopes and ideals of the lieves that Albania's main parties - just which has long nurtured good relations student movement, Spahiu migrated to like the Communists - only look after with China, is an important partner for coming together to demand political Greece and did odd jobs over the years their own interests, and ignore the real Beijing as it seeks to strengthen its pres- to feed his family. needs and wishes of ordinary citizens. ence in Eastern Europe as a whole. changes once again. However, the dream of a democratic In Albania, there are constant com- "The opening of the bank is part of and prosperous Albania, which he plaints that long after the fall of Com- the ["One Belt, One Road"] initiative. But Fatjona MEJDINI student movement that brought down dreamed in 1990, still seems to haunt him. munism the goal of true democracy it also shows the trust between China the harsh Communist system that A few months ago, he returned to remains unfinished business. and Serbia, as the plan is that the bank orty-six-year-old Vullnet Spa- ruled Albania from 1946 to 1992. Albania on a mission to topple the new Widespread corruption and parties from Serbia will support overall invest- hiu is little known to the gen- Most of Spahiu's friends and revolu- political class that rules the country. ruled by authoritarian leaders have made ment projects in the region, of which eral public in Albania today. tionary colleagues at that time estab- "Albania is in a very difficult situation the "transition" period in Albania far long- there are many," Zoran Grubišić from However, 26 years ago he lished or joined newly formed political and none of our ideals have been im- er than was thought and expected. the Belgrade Bank Academy told BIRN. Fwas one of the leaders of the parties and became a part of Albania's plemented," he told BIRN. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Belgrade makeover: Grand revamp or fantasy?

frastructure issues were being over- Many previous city administrations e will see looked. promised to do the same. whether "At the moment the most impor- Controversy continues meanwhile to first tant thing [for city officials] is a singing over the huge state-backed Belgrade build fountain. But I wonder if anyone will Waterfront project, which envisages slides or actually hear the music because of the the construction of residential and a carou- noise," Bušatlija told BIRN. office buildings, a shopping mall, a -ho sel"W like the London Eye, [or] an open- Vesna Cagić Milošević, president of tel, an opera house and a skyscraper air gym, [or] fields for volleyball on the the Association of Belgrade Architects, along the Sava riverbank. sand, or a lake," Mayor Siniša Mali said told BIRN that Mali's announcements Work here is ongoing but has on January 24th. were "populist statements that are be- sparked mass protests and opposition He added that the park would even- ing repeated. from experts, activists and ordinary tually be connected by cable car to the "I have no clue whether all these citizens. historic city-centre Kalemegdan Park, plans can be done. On what [long-term The campaign group "Let's Not located across the river. strategy] did they estimate what needs Drown Belgrade" started protesting While the final look of the park is yet to be done?" Cagić Milošević asked. against the Waterfront project in 2015, to be determined, Mali said the core Commenting on the Slavija Square arguing that the project will only ben- idea for the park was to offer enter- reconstruction, Cagić Milošević said it efit the rich. It also claims that the deal tainment and cultural content such as was being carried out "on the level of a reached with the UAE-based company aquariums, an adventure park and a make-over" like many other projects in Eagle Hills is unconstitutional and not planetarium. the city. in the public interest. The reconfigured park is only part of "I don't think the reconstruction of However, city officials led by Mali a plan to connect New Belgrade with Slavija will solve the traffic problems, seem eager to implement the project. the city centre, which will be turned which were the initial reasons for the He told Večernje Novosti in December into a pedestrian zone. This is just part works," she said. that 2017 will see the completion of of much wider plans that the city's au- Instead of beautifying the city, the the main works on the Sava riverbank thorities, led by ruling Progressive Par- architect said, the authorities should - including the mall, which is set to be ty, have for Serbia's capital. focus on more burning issues, such as the biggest in the region, residential Others include the reconstruction of traffic and infrastructure, which have areas, public spaces and infrastruc- a tram bridge, key streets and of city's not been tackled for decades. ture. biggest roundabout at Slavija. "What we have from Mali is a list [of However, Bušatlija wonders who Construction of new kindergartens, projects], when we need the reasons will buy the costly new apartments or a new building for the philharmonic for realizing these projects," Cagić rent vast amounts of new office space orchestra and several large residential Milošević said. in the Waterfront complex. construction projects are also on the "For instance, they want to build a "You already have hundreds of un- cards, as is refurbishment of all the cable-car line, but the question is, what rented square metres of office space in city's main hospitals. do we need it for and who would use the city center," he noted. "Taking that Mali said he was bent on "realizing it?" she asked. into account, will they ever be able to huge projects and beautifying the city", The idea to build the cable-car link sell or rent so many square meters?" he in an interview he gave to Blic newspa- - slated to start this year - is not new. asked. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić is one of the loudest supporters of the Belgrade Waterfront project. Photo: Beta per in December. The plans have drawn mixed re- actions, however. Parts are widely praised as much needed and long- awaited investments, especially those in health. Others have been dismissed as unnecessary projects that were not The complex, consisting of three towers, is being built on the site of the Interior Ministry building, which was heavily damaged during the 1999 NATO bombing of Serbia. Photo: Beta thought through. BIRN asked the City of Belgrade house the Belgrade Philharmonic, In January, the City of Belgrade also The city has already started to refur- they will receive fast and high-quality for comments on the reconstruction which is to be built in New Belgrade. continued the bidding process for a bish Kosančićev Venac and Obilićev health care," Stankov said. plans, but received no answers by the Along with an auditorium, the build- partner to join forces with the city to Venac in the heart of Belgrade. On the other hand, economist Milan time of publication. ing, with a park on its roof, will house refurbish and run the Sava Centre, the In September, the Mayor said all the Kovačević doubts the announced plans luxury shops, restaurants and cafes. country's biggest cultural, congress and projects were being financed jointly by will be fulfilled, dubbing them as noth- THE SKY IS THE LIMIT The project is expected to cost at least business centre. the city and the state, using loans from ing more than ‘pre-election promises.' €30 million. Constructed in 1979, the centre was the European Bank for Reconstruction "A good, nice-looking building can- On January at the time the largest audience hall in and Development, EBRD. not cure anyone, but good health sys- 25th, Mali an- Communist Yugoslavia and one of the Goran Vesić, Belgrade City Manager, tem can. What is in that hospital is more nounced What we have biggest in Europe. Now neglected and announced last August that the city important than how its facade looks," that com- in dire need of a complete makeover, also plans to relocate turntable stops Kovačević told BIRN. pany AFI from Mali is a the minimum cost of investments is set from the city centre and refurbish the He argues the plans and promises Group will at around €13 million. central Vasina St. come in the election year – presiden- launch the list [of projects], The city is also expected to move According to the authorities, nu- tial elections are taking place this April, construc- ahead this year with refurbishing Ruz- merous additional smaller projects while there might be the parliamentary tion of a when we need veltova St and Bulevar Oslobođenja, as will also start in 2017, including a new ones as well. residential and business complex on well as the cobbled Skadarlija street in bus station in New Belgrade, the refur- "The regime is in a problem. These Kneza Miloša St worth €200 million, the reasons for the city's "Bohemian Quarter". bishment of the facades of about 100 are pre-election promises, and we entitled Belgrade Skyline in August or In September, the city is due to start buildings, while the health centers in know from the past that they are never September. realizing these refurbishing the tram bridge over the the municipalities of Borča, Ugrinovci, fulfilled," Kovačević maintains. The complex, consisting of three Sava river, which will get additional Labudovo Brdo and Obrenovac will Some of the announcements of towers, is being built on the site of the projects. For in- lanes for cars, bikes and pedestrians. also under reconstruction. a grand revamp of the capital have Interior Ministry building, which was Reconstruction of the bridge, as with Apart from that, the access roads to drawn scepticism from architects and heavily damaged during the 1999 stance, they want the plans for Ušće Park, forms part of the recently renovated Prokop train economists who doubt Serbia's ability NATO bombing of Serbia. to build a cable- the city's three-year plan to connect station will be finished and new public to implement such huge schemes. On January 22nd, Prime Minister the pedestrian city centre and New Bel- garages are promised. They have argued that the city still Aleksandar Vučić announced that the car line, but the grade. has no long-term plan defining its de- state plans large investments in health The same plan also envisages re- PRAISE FROM SOME, velopment priorities and solving the this year, including refurbishment of question is, what construction of the city's central pe- DOUBTS FROM OTHERS capital's ongoing issues with traffic and the country's main hospital, the Clini- destrian street, Knez Mihailova, and infrastructure. cal Centre of Serbia, costing €122 mil- do we need it for Kralja Milana St, which will be closed Some of the investments have been Some, for example, query the refur- lion, and the main children's hospital to traffic apart from trams and taxis, widely welcomed, especially the prom- bishment of Slavija Square, a major in Tiršova St, costing €5 million. and who would the same as with Terazije and Nikole ise to renovate the hospitals. traffic roundabout, which has already He said the state also plans to build Pašića Square. Đurica Stankov, acting head of the started. another building for the children's use it?" "Our task is to increase the number Union of Patients Associations of Ser- As part of the revamp, the authorities hospital at a cost of €52 million, while of construction sites, to employ our bia, told BIRN that patients from all have moved the statue and remains of many other hospitals will be partly people and construction companies over the country have long awaited the Socialist, Dimitrije Tucović, who refurbished or get new facilities and Vesna Cagić Milošević, and to move construction industry this. was buried there. His monument is to equipment. president of the and economy forward," Mali told the "We will be following the promised be replaced by a huge musical fountain The city on January 9th also de- daily Večernje Novosti late in Decem- reconstruction of health facilities. That in the middle of the square. cided on the future design of the Association of Belgrade ber, listing the projects the city plans to will ensure that patients in Belgrade Mahmud Bušatlija, a foreign invest- 27,000-square-metre building to Architects conduct. finally get accessible hospitals where ment consultant, argued that real in- 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Children's Belgrade boy ships poet gets rakija tradition to Texas playground small, family manufacturing approach Making fruity wholeheartedly, not only as produc- ers ourselves, but as consumers," the brandy in the young manufacturer explained. honour When it comes to rakija and beer- backyard is brewing, Boyan and his partner have common in the taken a "non-compromising" approach. Famous Serbian poet and "We never use industrially produced Balkans - but alcohols as a cheaper alternative, and journalist Dušan Radović is closer we never use sugars or flavoring agents, two enterprising natural or artificial, to boost the essence to being honoured in Belgrade of the fruit in our rakija," he said, adding young men, that the same goes for every other bev- after local authorities backed an erage they produce. including one "We always resort to yeasts native to initiative to name a children's park the respective brewing regions for our from Belgrade, beers, and brew true to each style." after him. have launched a BIG CHALLENGES

successful ‘rakija' However, as Boyan explained, Dorćol Ivana NIKOLIĆ grade's kids than a playground named Distilling + Brewing Company is an ex- after Duško Radović? In that way, we business in the pensive hobby. It is not the only thing he Belgrade authorities are saying thank you to Duško, and also he does for living. Apart from produc- have said they support helping children stay children, which is US. ing alcohol, he runs an insurance and the idea of honouring what he fought for the most," the state- risk management firm. Dušan Radović - a well- ment said. While the response from clients of known Serbian children's Belgrade City Manager Goran Vesić Ivana NIKOLIĆ his drinks business is good, Boyan said writer, poet, journalist and said he supports the initiative and be- the business still depends on a slightly TTV editor - by naming a park after him. lieves it will be approved as soon as lmost four years ago, different audience, including those who Belgrade city-owned Radio-Televi- possible. two friends from can and want to pay more than is usual. sion Studio B, where Radović used to be "I believe that the city Assembly university, Boyan "Fruit spirits are substantially more an editor, has already sent the initiative will pass the initiative at one of the up- Radović's morning show became a symbol of the capital. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/ SmirnofLeary Kalušević and Chris expensive to make, so we find our big- to the Belgrade Assembly for approval. coming sessions and name the com- Mobley, decided to gest fans and supporters to be folks with It is still not known however when the mission [to agree on the park which Dušan Duško Radović was born in dio show called 'Beograde, dobro jutro' Some of the songs he wrote for kids take the bull by the Boyan Kalušević and Chris Mobley. Photo: dorcolspirits.com an incredibly open and willing mind, idea will be put on the agenda. will be named after Radović], which the southern city of Niš in 1922 and died (‘Belgrade, Good Morning'). became hits thanks to the Belgrade- Ahorns and make their dream come true. not only wanting to try new things, but Radović will not get a "classic monu- will consist of people he knew, chil- in Belgrade in August 1984. He was the The show became a symbol of the based Kolibri Children's Choir. Despite the scepticism of their "Here we are today, going strong and Boyan and Chris then started hunt- and entirely brings back fond thoughts also having the financial means to do ment" because he did not like them, but dren's poets as well as those who are editor-in-chief and journalist of sev- capital and well-known for the apho- Two elementary schools, a thea- friends and family, the two started a continuing to share this passion of ours ing for bank loans to finance the of childhood and family gatherings," he so," the distiller said. a place for kids, as he loved them and now doing what he used to do," Vesić eral newspapers, and the editor of chil- risms with which Radović used to tre on Tearazije and a street in the micro-distillery in the city of San Anto- with anyone who'll give us a chance," business. Then, late in 2011 and 2012, recalled. "It's folks who value high quality and worked on their behalf, Studio B said in said. dren's programmes at Radio Beograd wake Belgraders up. Years later, his Zvezdara municipality have been al- nio in Texas. The beginning of Dorćol Boyan said. "we got lucky with some family and He said the team uses traditional reci- find satisfaction in supporting makers a statement. "The ultimate goal is to find the best and TV Beograd. thoughts were published in a series of ready named after Radović. There is Distilling + Brewing Company, named But how did it all start and why, I ask? friends who thought we were just cra- pes and methods, which also goes for of good spirits and beers." "As children love playing the most, solution which will secure the memory From 1975 until his death he worked three books, also called ‘Belgrade, Good also a street race in Belgrade named after the Belgrade neighborhood where "It all began with a ‘bootlegging' inci- zy enough to actually make it work so the equipment. They are more into tradi- Another challenge, he admitted, is that what better gift can we give to Bel- of Duško Radović," he added. for Studio B, where he ran a morning ra- Morning'. after him, ‘Memory of Duško Radović.' Boyan was born in 1982, was hard. dent across the Atlantic in my teenage they invested in us and helped the pro- tional handmade pieces – although they few Americans are well acquainted with "Chris and I always blame each other years, which started a family joke that ject to fruition". do possess large series production items rakija. "Unlike in Europe, in the US, rakija, for getting the other into this. We both I would eventually carry on the fam- necessary for distilling and brewing. or brandy in general, for that matter, is con- enjoyed good career starts following ily tradition and distill Stateside," the TRADITION COMES FIRST "The most inspiring, or admired, sidered a pretty obscure spirit," he said. college," Boyan told BIRN. 35-year-old distiller recalled. piece of equipment we have must be "There is an inherent challenge in "We've since cried ourselves to sleep His family left Serbia for San An- Speaking of family, this is where Boy- our traditional copper pot still, which introducing a ‘new' spirit category to Bus pass to become payment card more often than either of us will admit," tonio, Texas, in 1992. In 2003, Boyan an found his inspiration and ideas. Born was hand hammered and welded by folks, and then asking them to alter the owner and distiller added. met Chris at the University of Texas, and raised in Dorćol, where Skadarska a third-generation coppersmith from their drinking habits," he added. However, with the passage of years and the two started talking about dis- Street hits November 29th Street, he was Novi Sad in Serbia," Boyan recalled, While these two challenges are tasks Belgraders will cards will soon be available to the pub- Apex says its agents file misdemean- and growth of experience, the two-man tilling. For a while, the students' chats surrounded by family members, grand- adding that this same father-son team to be overcome, Boyan believes it re- lic, he added. our non-payment reports against 500 to team seems satisfied for now. were merely dreams and it took years father and uncles. Like most families in is to make them another still. mains possible, thanks to the support soon be able to "This is a huge innovation. The card 700 fare-dodgers each day, with another Their handcrafted rakija [their own before they sat down at a dinner table Serbia, Boyan's was also fond of making The same goes for the brewing equip- of many, including local food and spirit will become part of a so-called loyalty 140 to 150 paying fines on the spot. brand is called Kinsman Rakia], cock- in 2011 to develop a concrete business rakija, a fruit brandy, which is where his ment, Boyan said, which again comes writers and other experts in the field. use the BusPlus programme, meaning it will be possible The company's controllers can moni- tails and beers are now available in sev- plan. love for the drink stems from. from a small, traditional, family busi- "There are some rock-star barmen public-transport to pay with it in certain stores," Vesić said. tor compliance and collect fines, but eral cities across the United States, and At that time, Boyan recalled, no one "I got introduced to booze by family ness, this time in America. who love what we make, and we couldn't "By using it, buyers will receive bo- they do not have the legal standing to Boyan says he and his partner are now in Texas was doing this kind of job the at an early age, with the smell of bar- "A small family shop in California thank them enough for including us in card scheme for nuses which will give them discounts detain passengers or demand their ID looking to export them to foreign mar- way they wanted, which in a way was rels and cellars ingrained in my mind. made all our brewing equipment, so we what they do in shaping the drinking when renewing their [BusPlus] tickets cards when they refuse to pay. Control- kets as well. wind in their back. It's one of the earliest memories I have, obviously embrace and embody the landscape in the US," Boyan concluded. paying bills and next month," he said. lers are also often subject to abuse from buying goods However, it is still not known wheth- passengers. er BusPlus users will have to pay more Fines range from 3,000 to 6,000 di- ORDER DELIVERY TO in shops, local if they decide to use their transport nars [€24 to €48], depending on wheth- Find your copy of YOUR DOOR cards as a means of payment. er they are paid immediately. +381 11 4030 303 authorities have Belgrade introduced the BusPlus sys- Hiring Apex five years ago was also [email protected] tem of journey payment and vehicle controversial. The investigation into Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight announced. control – created by a consortium of pri- the bidding process, published by BIRN vate companies and implemented by and the Centre for Investigative Jour- Ivana NIKOLIĆ Serbian contractor Apex Technology nalism in Serbia, CINS showed that it LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Solution- in February 2012. was irregular - the chances of genuine Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE elgrade City Manager BusPlus was intended to improve competition were limited, according to Address: Smetanina 12 Goran Vesić has an- payment rates and revenues, and to official documents, legal experts and MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 nounced that the Bus- give transport managers real-time con- potential bidders. Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD Plus ticketing system trol over vehicles facing changing traf- Even though BIRN and CINS learned Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA SKVER 44 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 will undergo significant fic conditions. that many international and local com- Address: Požeška 44a changes which will al- While the new system did give man- panies considered competing for the job, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 lowB people to use their transport cards agement more control over vehicles the conditions excluded most of them. INTERGALACTIC DINNER HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE not only to make payments, but to get and the number of sales outlets in- Among the reasons were that the Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 discounts when paying bills. creased from 26 to more than 2,000, it several hundred pages of forms and Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Vase Pelagića 48 This means that people using their has failed to solve persistent problems templates that bidders had to complete Mihajla Pupina 85A CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF BusPlus cards to pay Infostan utility with fare-dodgers. were only in the Serbian language and Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE service bills will get reductions. Belgrade has addressed the fare- the Cyrillic alphabet, deterring many MIXER HOUSE Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 Vesić said that the company in dodging issue by contracting Apex to international firms. KOLARAC charge of the system, Apex Technology provide onboard controllers who use The authorities who responded to calls Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 Solution, has already signed the con- electronic devices to ensure that pas- from BINR and CINS maintained however Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 tracts enabling the changes. The new sengers have paid. BusPlus ticket validator. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Orjen that the entire process was legal. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS Mikser Continued from page 1 House China opens new Belgrade eyes bank as Balkan hub new venue in Dorćol

know, the warehouse where cur- The couple rently Mikser House is placed is not included as a part to be destroyed for behind Mikser the needs of Belgrade Waterfront," says Lalić. House, a creative Lalić, an architect by profession, and her husband Ivan opened Mik- hub in Savamala ser House back in 2013, after turn- ing the old shabby warehouse into who helped a modern design venue. They were among a group, small at the time, renew the that started opening exhibition and music venues, cafes and bars in Sa- once-neglected vamala. In the course of more than three neighbourhood, years, Mikser House has hosted numer- ous conferences, exhibitions conven- are setting tions, theatre plays and musicians and became one of the most popular ven- their eyes on ues in the city. Meanwhile Savamala district be- renovating the came the hub of Belgrade's nightlife and in 2015 Business Insider listed it old industrial among the top ten coolest and most ex- citing districts in Europe. factory in Dorćol. In a midst of the migration crisis of 2015, Lalić and a group of volunteers opened Miksalište, a second venue Natalia ŽABA aimed at organising and distribut- ing aid to thousands of refugees that aja and Ivan Lalić, passed through Belgrade on their way the founders of to Europe. Mikser House – After several other venues in the an arts hub and neighbourhood were demolished to café that serves make room for construction work for as a gathering Belgrade Waterfront in 2015, Miksalište point for artists, hosting plays and was demolished in spring 2016, but the M Guoli Tian, chairman of the bank and Tomislav Nikolić, Serbian president. Photo: Beta concerts, but also commercial events team reopened in a nearby location – have announced they will soon move within a month. their hub away from Savamala. Similarly, after Mikser House leaves hile the Serbian These are Albania, Bosnia, Bulgaria, in the first six China already built - and lent 260 mil- On January 24th, they shared the Savamala in May, Lalić says they will market itself is Croatia, the Czech Republic, Estonia, months of China has chosen lion US dollars to build – a bridge over news they will most small, Serbia's Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, 2016, Serbia Serbia as one of Danube in Belgrade in 2015. It is now likely move to various trade Montenegro, Poland, Romania, Serbia, imported 773 working on construction of some sec- the emerg- Mikser isn't just a agreements Slovakia and Slovenia. million US the countries from tions of Corridor 11, the highway stretch- ing new with Russia, "China has chosen Serbia as one of dollars worth ing from Romania to Montenegro and Belgrade theW EU and Turkey form a solid base for the countries from where it will access goods from where it will access then via the Adriatic Sea to Italy. building or a loca- hotspot of China's companies to step in and ben- the EU market. Although Serbia is not China but ex- China has also approved a loan Maja Lalić. Photo: Piroshki Photography Dorćol. tion, Mikser is an efit both themselves and Serbia. a member country, it has a trade agree- ported only around 12 million dollars' the EU market. for around 600 million US dollars to The pair, create it anew. They are currently venue similar to Mikser House that was houses and land that used to belong "The main motive for opening the ment with the EU and also trade agree- worth of goods the other way. Although Serbia build a new block of the power plant who were one idea. Our attitude in negotiations with Belgrade's mu- opened in June 2016 in the refurbished to public companies that went out of Bank of China is that China has enough ments with Russia and Turkey, which While the trade balance is strikingly to at Kostolac, near the Romanian bor- of the main engines behind the renew- nicipality of Stari Grad over moving warehouse of another closed public work years ago, may be set to replace capital that it wants to invest, and that gave it an advantage compared to other China's advantage, Beijing has become a is not a member der, which Chinese construction al of Savamala – once just a neglected from the very be- into the abandoned buildings of the company. Savamala. Beijing has decided to enter Europe [its countries in region," Savić observed. major backer of infrastructure projects companies will complete. quarter of old houses and huge, empty closed-down state-owned industrial "We have a lot of sites that were eye- Lalić says she feels sorry that Sava- markets] more offensively," Ljubodrag During his three-day visit to Serbia in Serbia, investing especially in roads country, it has a Grubišić said that the fact that Bank warehouses – have set their sights on ginning was not to complex in Dorćol. witnesses to Belgrade's life 100 years mala is changing identity because of Savić, an economics professor in Bel- in June 2016, Chinese President Xi Jin- and railways, industry and energy. of China has opened its branch in Bel- an abandoned and forgotten building "I remember when we started with ago. These do not need necessarily to the megaproject Belgrade Waterfront, grade, told BIRN. ping emphasised Serbia's importance Besides the comprehensive strategic trade agreement grade means that Beijing plans fur- in an industrial complex, called Indus- wait for someone Mikser, I needed to spend several min- be monuments that are protected by however she thinks that one should "One Belt, One Road" is the code to the "New Silk Road" plan. partnership, last year Serbia and China ther investments in Serbia. try of Metal Constructions. utes [helping] each time somebody strict preservation policy, but they understand it as a life opportunity and name for a foreign policy launched in "The Serbian side supports and ac- concluded several deals, including Chi- with the EU and "It's good news, because the bank would "Mikser isn't just a building or a lo- to give us some- was trying to find where we were lo- can be protected as architectural and move on. 2013, which aims to expand Beijing's in- tively participates in the 'One Belt, One na's investment in the modernisation also trade agree- support realistic projects," he added. cation, Mikser is an idea. Our attitude cated. Mikser House was abandoned, cultural heritage with more flexible "It happened that Belgrade Water- ternational influence and trade abroad Road' initiative, and is ready to play of the Smederevo steelworks, agreed As in other countries, works in from the very beginning was not to thing, but to cre- demolished, invisible despite the fact approach which will encourage revi- front megaproject will be implemented in order to compensate for the slow- a leading role in the cooperation be- between Belgrade and the He Steel ments with Russia Serbia are both financed by Chinese wait for someone to give us something, it has a very central location in Sava- talization of those places and their in- in Savamala. It has already changed down in economic growth at home. tween China and the countries of Cen- company in June 2016. loans and carried out by Chinese but to create a sustainable model. The ate a sustainable mala," says Lalić. novative future use - hopefully for cul- the identity of Savamala significantly, At the heart of the plan is a "New tral and Eastern Europe," he said. In November that year, Serbia, China and Turkey, which companies and workers, causing crit- conditions are tough, but we actually "When you bring a mass of people to tural, educational, artistic and creative which makes this district less attractive Silk Road", a modern transport, trade During the same visit, China and and Hungary confirmed the Chinese- icism from some local experts. made it," Maja Lalić says. model. The con- such a place – or installations, or sculp- purposes," she points out. for artists. However, maybe it's just the and economic corridor running from Serbia signed 22 agreements on coop- financed construction of a fast rail link gave it an advan- Ahead of the Chinese President's vis- While some have speculated that tures or movie projections – and if the "We managed to create a sustainable natural course of events," she says. Shanghai to Berlin, via Eastern and eration, including a joint statement on between Belgrade and Budapest. tage compared to it last year, Milojko Arsić, an economics Mikser House is moving from Savama- ditions are tough, public is open and reactive, [the com- solution using creative and designers' While they keep ‘working local', they Central Europe, running alongside the establishing a comprehensive strategic Savić said the railway was important expert, told BIRN that while economic la to make room for the state-backed bination of the event and the space] ideas within a business model, and I'm also think regional. Mikser House is "Maritime Silk Road", a sea route con- partnership, signed by Xi and his Ser- for China's plans because the Chinese had other countries in cooperation with China was important construction project Belgrade Water- but we actually becomes a piece of magic, a transfor- sure that creating such a centre in lower also going to kick off in Sarajevo, in the necting China, Southeast Asia, Oceania bian counterpart, Tomislav Nikolić. already bought the operator of the larg- for Serbia, it was more reliant on loans front, Maja Lalić says that the move mation, a scene. It has been always Dorćol would bring much more good to industrial zone of Pofalići; Maja and and North Africa. Serbia and China signed an agree- est Greece port at Piraeus, and so needed region." and credits than it should be. actually came after disputes with their made it." fascinating to ‘live' art in such spaces, Belgrade and its citizens than another Ivan announced that the centre would A project under the same umbrella, ment on mutual abolition of visas in good transport infrastructure between Arsić also criticized the fact that landlord. rather than in the most luxurious gal- mall," says Lalić. be even bigger than the one in Belgrade. the 16+1 initiative, seeks to improve November 2016. the port and the rest of the continent. Chinese construction companies "Many people thought that this is leries," she says. With Mikser House moving, the quar- "We don't need billions to transform a trade and economic ties specifically The trade gap between Serbia and "They are thinking 50 years in ad- Ljubodrag Savić, work on infrastructure projects in because of the Belgrade Waterfront The Dorćol neighbourhood al- ter in Dorćol that is currently occupied place and to give a new life to it. These with 16 countries in Central and Eastern China is huge, however. According to vance and their long-term strategy is to an economics Serbia, not Serbian ones, while Serbia project, but it's not true. As far as I Maja Lalić ready hosts art hub Dorćol Platz, a with waste and empty buildings, ware- are our dreams and our love," says Lalić. Europe. the Serbian Chamber of Commerce, win Europe," Savić said. professor exports little to China. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 9 REGION FACES

Continued from page 1 Albania's old activists ponder How new political revolution Ratko's

any are also frus- portant issues, such as judicial reform, salon trated that 26 had created disputes with senior jus- years after the tice officials and had complicated his fall of Commu- work as a lawyer. nism the crimes "I'm always seen as the black sheep of the old system but that's no problem for me. I will became a Mremained unpunished and the files of never stop openly talking about the the former secret police are still not important issues of my country, what- open. ever the cost," he said. "We should do anything it takes to Merkoci said he had been cam- cut above change this situation," Spahiu adds. paigning since the 1990s about the Fatmir Merkoci, a lawyer in Tirana, right of people to know who had col- is another former revolutionary who laborated with the old Communist se- believes that fresh political change is cret police, the Sigurimi. needed in Albania. "Through my articles, I have con- the rest As a young law student he was in stantly sought the investigation of the in middle of the demonstrations of Communist crimes and the punish- 1990 and 1991 that brought down the ment of guilty former Communist of- goslavia and Europe, Janko Stupovski, Communist system. ficials," he said. Looking back from whom he not only learned the "We were a patriotic and intellectu- Spahiu said a new political move- craft but with whom he also formed a al family persecuted by [former dicta- ment called the Albanian Bee [Bleta over the 40 years deep, firm friendship. tor] Enver Hoxha's regime, and I have Shqiptare] led by Shenasi Rama, a "If you want to achieve something in borne many personal consequences well-known former student activist, since he left his life, you need to listen to me," Šobota re- as a result," he told BIRN. had brought hope to people like him calls his uncle telling him when he first On February 20th 1991, as a member and his friends who do not identify Bosnian village reached Belgrade. of an independent union, he led an with the current political system. This meant not only working long angry crowd of around 100,000 Alba- "I have faith that this movement will and opened his hours but also going out together with nians that took over Tirana's Skander- change some things in Albania," he him to the local "Zlatni Papagaj" café. beg Square and toppled the statue of said. "Now it is important to organize," famous salon in "Belgrade in the 1960s and 1970s was Hoxha. he concluded. a completely different place," Šobota He was later shot at by the police Belgrade, Ratko says. "People went out more often and and lost con- used to hang out much more than they sciousness, so Šobota says the do today, even though there were few- his friends I'm always seen er kafanas or pubs back then," he says. took him to a secret of real At only 22 he started becoming hospital. as the black well known as a hairdresser, winning Almost success is lasting his first prize, the Grand Prix Opatija, three dec- sheep but that's and then bigger awards, including the ades later, a long time. Grand Prix of Yugoslavia and his first he also feels no problem for award in Paris. disappointed with the results of Alba- His salon, Šobota, has long been one nia's revolution from the 1990s. Natalia ŽABA of the best known in Belgrade, at least He criticizes the political establish- me. I will never since the 1980s. ment that has been created since the ack in 1960, when "It is hard to imagine today, but back Communist system collapsed and re- stop openly talk- 18-year-old Ratko Šobota, then hairdressers used to wait in front fused to pursue a political career as a from the Bosnian ham- of their saloons for the clients from the result. ing about the im- let of Lamince, near early morning hours. People cared a lot Merkoci told BIRN that the current Bosanska Gradiška, left about their hairstyles and would drop political class will not stop him from portant issues of his first workplace in the by before work," he recalls. loudly demanding the belated imple- localB barbershop, he could never have Although not many people recall the mentation of the ideals of the anti- my country, what- dreamed that within only a few years he grim 1990s with much sentimentality, Communist revolt. would become one of the top hairdress- considering the bloody breakup of Yu- "The media is my platform to con- ever the cost." ers in what was then Yugoslavia. goslavia, Šobota says back then most tinue my activism for a better country. In the last 40 years, since he opened people, including famous politicians, Since 1995, I have articulated bold ideas his own salon in the centre of Bel- were far more accessible and open. on every political and social occasion grade, he has been cutting the hair of "The atmosphere in Belgrade was every time that I could do so," he said. famous musicians and businessmen very lively and dynamic. Politicians He also said that some of his ideas Fatmir Merkoci, as well as poli- ti- Enver Hoxha's statue falling in Tirana. Photo: Courtesy of Armando Babani expressed in public over ongoing im- a lawyer cians from across the Belgrade in the spectrum – from the 1960s and 1970s late Prime Minis- was a completely Published by ter Zoran Đinđić to different place. Serbia's current President, Tomislav Nikolić. People went out Nowadays, Šobota comes to the salon only from time to time, to refresh the cuts of about 30 of his oldest customers. Photo: Courtesy of Ratko Šobota Moving to Belgrade was not his idea. more often and A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO His uncle, who was also a hairdresser, of different opinions socialized in my "My saloon before 2000 was visit- customers, one of whom is President urged Šobota to come to Belgrade as used to hang out saloon among the other customers," ed by members of all political parties, Nikolić. NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM he believed that a barbershop in a tiny Šobota recalls. the atmosphere was always good; "Nikolić is going to come tomorrow, CONTENT town in Bosnia was no place for his Clients from that era included former after 2000, the situation slightly but I won't tell you when," he laughs. IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE nephew. much more than Yugoslav President Dobrica Ćosić, the changed and they stopped normal "I must admit I have very positive opinion for in-depth analysis, In those times, youngsters did not famous journalists Aleksandar Tijanić communications and socializing," about him. I was surprised that he always investigative reports, say "no" to their elders and Ratko, one they do today, and Slavko Ćuruvija and the chess Šobota says. schedules his appointment himself; he's on features, interviews, of seven children in the family, obeyed. player Gari Kasparov. Politicians or journalists used to ask time and always pleasant," says Šobota. commentary and profiles "His older sister bought him a suit on even though there "Kasparov visited us before an im- Ratko to schedule their visits at the Šobota's children, Zoran and Tatjana, on the latest business and a loan, which he packed into a wooden, portant world competition; I told him same time as other people they knew. run the salon these days and are set to political headlines. were fewer kafa- military suitcase, and he came to Bel- that after I cut his hair he would be "For instance, Aleksandar Tijanić continue their father's work. grade. It was all he had," said his son, nas or pubs back doomed to succeed; he laughed, but re- and Zoran Đinđić were great friends "To me, success means to last long. Zoran Šobota, who has worked along- ally, it was so," he says. and always asked to schedule their cuts It's easy to make a business today, make OTHER SERVICES: side his father in the salon for years. then." He cut the hair of both opposition together," Šobota says. it successful in a short period with a lot Once in Belgrade, Šobota started leader Zoran Đinđić as well as the Nowadays, Šobota comes to the of money, then sell it and forget about it. working in a barbershop next to one locks of the ruling Socialist Party of- salon only from time to time, to re- But it's not the way I want to run ours," of the most famous hairdressers in Yu- Ratko Šobota ficials. fresh the cuts of about 30 of his oldest Zoran Šobota says. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful Bosnian Drinking - Wine List winter resort Reviews Corner Wine It always begins draws visitors with a simple question: ‘Can you bring me the wine across list'? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, Balkans and cannot be measured only by how much is left The Jahorina ski resort, one of the jewels in the bottle after Iris, the of Bosnian winter tourism, deservedly dinner. attracts thousands of skiers from across Pavle GOLICIN promising ris New Balkan Cuisine, to the region each year. give the restaurant its full name, is a newcomer to the gourmet scene in Belgrade. Hidden in an apartment in bud of blooming new BIRN Team While experienced skiers have two tracks Sarajevska Street – in a rather on which they can test their skills, seven tracks surprisingI neighbourhood for a high- t Jahorina, located around are more suitable for average skiers and one is end restaurant in Belgrade – Iris and 34 kilometres south of reserved for beginners. its young chef Vanja Puškar try to Balkan cuisine the Bosnian capital, has The resort also offers cross-country skiing and promote somewhat forgotten local (Balkan) ingredients and combine long been one of the most night skiing. Photo: Duda&Vlada, Pavle Golicin them into unique gastronomic popular skiing resorts in the The resort has nine lifts that can transport experience. country and the region. about 12,000 skiers per hour as well as cafes, Even after the winter holidays The brainchild of improvement, right? Upmarket restau- flavours that reminded us of springtime, the firmness that only the fully grown free- MThe second tallest mountain in Bosnia with restaurants and bars next to the tracks that offer and tons of food at every sitting, I am rants struggle with that in Belgrade. Can a though the ingredients are typical of win- range chicken possesses. the highest peak at 1,913 metres, has over 20km places for rest and recreation. looking forward to more succulent one of the best- romantic concept deliver more? ter. Its long-lasting, evolving taste will not Not tired or deterred by all those redefi- of ski trails and – compared to the other Bosnian The mountain, which is covered in snow for dishes and to being entertained Iris's apartment is a typical Belgrade old- leave you unmoved. The butter comes nitions – au contraire! – we rejoiced in the with their presentation. And the first ski resorts at Mt Bjelašnica and Mt Igman – well about 175 days a year, has become a prominent re- school, neoclassical period-dwelling space from a privately held dairy farm close to desserts like kids. Potato dumplings with impression is in the right direction. known chefs in developed facilities and decent accommodation sort in the region since being one of three moun- As soon as I entered, I got involved – high ceilings, large windows, wooden the town of Vršac, we were told. The oth- sweet plums, a Serbian domestic clas- at affordable prices. tains in Bosnia to host the 1984 winter Olympics. in a charming conversation, chit- Belgrade conjures floors, and tiled stoves. The interior is mini- erwise perfectly balanced dish is accom- sic, is reinterpreted here in the form of chatting with the staff about the mal in the extreme. The tables and chairs panied by freshly baked rye bread, great in sweet gnocchi made of plum-core flour new menu, introduced that day. It childhood chosen are a little rough and bulky, yet this its own right, which one might find a little (!), crunchy crumbs, infused dried plums is worth mentioning that the menu interior says clearly: "You are here for the overpowering. The solution is simple – do and vanilla ice-cream with plum oil… An at Iris changes every month or so, food." Point taken. not eat the bread – but that is beyond pow- unheard-of reconstruction of an instantly according to the season and the memories while available ingredients. The day of our visit happened to be the ers of many here in Serbia. recognizable classic: great-tasting, and However, despite the short, breaking new first day of a new menu, number three in Another starter dish was tortellini with even more inspiring. but well thought-out menu, there the restaurant's short history, and we hap- Buša beef, marrow reduction with leek and Another classic dinner time dessert, tu- is no wine list here. As it is being ground with its pened to be the first guests of the day. We almonds, and a crowd-pleaser – cubes of fahija, is also interpreted with a bit of flare. promoted as a fine dining restaurant, were welcomed into a pleasant pseudo- carrot baked in salt. The carrot was a veri- Vacuum-baked apple in syrup, crunchy I admit I was unpleasantly surprised delightful twists on working environment, where the pairing table hit; we can't wait to try variations in walnuts and a light, fluffy meringue round- not to find a wine list at Iris, with only a limited number of varieties avail- of wines with set menu dinner dishes was our own kitchen. The whole dish falls short ed our meal off completely. able, which certainly restricts the classics. taking place. This was really interesting – on nothing – it has a number of diverse, It is a great thing to finally have a new- possibilities for matching adequate we were able to witness the process (and well balanced flavors, and each ingredient comer to the scene that focuses on the wine with the otherwise well-pre- Duda&Vlada even play a small part) while having he plays a vital role. Well done! food. Our lunch at Iris was not flawless, but pared food. staff's attention at the same time. On to the mains: our very own breed it was truly memorable. Conjuring child- The focus is on domestic, in other arajevska Street is no place The lunch menu is as short as it gets: of pigs, Mangulica, is duly represented hood memories and breaking new ground words ex-Yugoslav wines. The reds you can see in the wine cooler, but for a fancy restaurant – in a two starters, two mains and two sweets. No by pork roasted with juniper sous vide, at the same time is not an easy thing to do, for the rest you have to rely on the traditional Belgrader's view, mental labour required – we ordered eve- mashed potatoes with mustard seeds, and and Iris is definitely on the right path. So far, staff. Although you are in the hands at least. But Iris is not just an- rything and hoped for the best. foamy pork skin chips. It is as good as it their bold, romantic concept seems to be of a great sommelier and very other fancy restaurant. Situ- The Initial bite blew us away. sounds. The pork chips are reminiscent of working fantastically. As well as allowing friendly personnel who will provide ated in an apartment building, A marble-sized, pink savoury macaron crab chips, a staple of Chinese restaurants, them to work in less stressful conditions, you with good suggestions, the lack on the upper floor of number 54, it's being with a crunchy yet weightless exterior but with a serious Balkans pedigree. The it allows true foodies to dine "unseen", in of a printed wine list makes your S choice more difficult. There is no marketed as an experimental workshop of made of beetroot, filled with mellow chick- dish as a whole is a Sunday dinner classic, a less tense atmosphere, at a more reason- price range, and you have to guess New Balkan Cuisine - the latest brainchild en pate, with a surprising belated rush of perfectly re-told. able price. The menu we sampled is avail- which labels are being offered by and first solo project of Vanja Puškar, one sweetness coming from a wild strawberry Roasted hen was also fine, but it did not able till March 1st and we are already eager the glass. of Belgrade's most renowned chefs. hidden inside – and notes of watercress quite match the "wow" effect of the previ- to see what will be on the next one. Bearing in mind that we ordered a In one of his interviews following the giving a fresh hint. A delicate treat, brought ous offerings. Maybe it had to do with us; full menu, consisting of pasta, chick- opening of Iris, Puškar said the workshop from the back of the menu to the spotlight, one can be impressed only so many times en and ‘mangulica' pig, rosé was the Iris New Balkan Cuisine WE DO CATERING FOR ALL KINDS OF CELEBRATIONS only option to cover it all. We jointly environment of Sarajevska is where it fits looking cute but packing a roller-coaster in a row, or with the imperfect nature of the Address: Sarajevska 54 decided to go for ‘Roza Nostra' by naturally. It sounds romantic, but we are ride of flavours that seem to last forever. universe itself. Either way, the fried chick- Contact: +381 64 12 96 377 Erdevik, made from Merlot and Cab- not really talking about an artisans' neigh- It came on a small plate resembling a piece en skin was great, and so was the leg. Cel- ernet Sauvignon. Fruity and vibrant, bourhood here. The undiluted truth is of lava stone. The only material thing the pro- ery cream, garlic baked in fat, and veloute Price guide: 2200-2500 dinars per per- unlike many Serbian rosé wines, it probably that a prime location would nev- prietor has paid attention to, apart from the sauce complemented the roast. The fillet son for three courses without drinks [around gave a nice touch to the wide range er allow for the truly romantic aspect of the food, is the tableware. Some of the pieces are of breast was, however, a bit dry and dull, €18-€20]; 3000-3700 [€24-€30] per person for of dishes that we ordered. We came for lunch when you concept – the hosts welcome guests only handmade by a local artist, the rest probably although we did notice the structure and 8 course set menu without drinks (dinner) can only choose from the ‘a la carte' three days of the week (from Wednesday being cleverly picked to match. menu, but for dinner there is a set to Friday, at lunch and dinner time), and Our next small course was a treat from menu. Wine pairing is available for keep the rest of the week free to experi- the staff and a sneak peek into the even- 2,600 dinars [€21] and is done by the ment, learn, dream… ing menu; the meat tea, they call it. A single book, according to the experience ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ we had. We actually took part in the The concept behind New Balkan Cui- piece of homemade tortellini filled with ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” sine is not particularly novel. It's been a older, free range chicken meat is served in process of wine and food pairing, RESTAURANT KOVAČ pizzeria as we showed interest (and decent while since the focus of the world scene a small cup. A mixture of chicken bouillon modern ethno restaurant knowledge) about the wine. A great shifted from international and fusion to and famous herbal tea from Rtanj Moun- bonus, nicely run by the staff and the rediscovering seasonal and regional. Bel- tain is poured over from a vintage cast-iron leading sommelier, which proved grade already has a number of restaurants teapot. The pasta was perfect, the filling not that Iris has the potential to become proper gastronomic hub in Belgrade. in this lane. We visited and reviewed some so – very dense, but the distinct aroma of caffe A wine list with a more developed of them, and found that they all share a Rtanj herbal tea blended fantastically into selection would be certainly ap- modern approach, menu and design. How- the chicken stock, yielding a completely preciated so it is on an equal footing ever, the actual food was in general lack- new taste with double warming potential. Beograd,Svetozara Markovica 19a with the glory of the food, which is ing the "added value" that the modern ap- Liver ganache with domestic butter, tel. 011/3246 947,323 88 88 at a high level at Iris. So I will be back proach is supposed to bring to traditional hibiscus jelly and caramelized hazelnut Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 quite soon to check it out again, for www.restorankovac.com cuisine. Reinvention should also be about crumbs sports a lively combination of Photos: Anadolu Agency sure. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Russian star conductor Gergiev visits Belgrade Magnificent movie CLUBBING One of the most influential contemporary conductors, Valery Gergiev, will be leading a st festival opens with renewed performance on January 31 at AND LIVE MUSIC Arts in brief Belgrade's Sava Centre. Best of all, Gergiev will not be com- ing alone; the orchestra from purpose Moscow's Mariinsky Theatre, The touching documentary offers an FRIDAY JANUARY 27th SATURDAY JANUARY 28th • Miss Millie, Ludost, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm where he is the general director, Following their intimate but unobtrusive portrait of the will be accompanying him. Tickets relationship between Helfgott and his • DJ Alex Tic- - Flashback, • REGEN // Ilian Tape <§>, • 33.10.3402 all night long, will cost between €13 and €28 receipt of a pres- wife, Gillian. Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva depending on seating. The second night features "Auster- Stefana 115, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm 23, 11pm TRA T T O R I A tigious award, the litz," a German documentary from last , • Belgrade Afterhours with • Go Deeper with Emanuel Violin virtuoso year, written and directed by Sergei • Devedesete - DJ Alex Tic PIZZER I A Nemanja Radulović at couple behind Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Danielle Nicole, KPTM, Satie, Gadost, Karađorđeva Kolarac Loznitsa, shows how people visiting the 23, 11pm Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm 44, 11pm Belgrade's top doc locations of former Nazi death camps • Hung on until the party • Saturday Night Fever • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Probably the single most popular see the Holocaust from a modern per- is over, Mr Stefan Braun, - Dj`s Boško Pešić & Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Nebojsina 8 and high-profile classical musi- film festival, which spective and relate to the tragedies that took place there. Nemanjina 4, 11pm George, Mr Stefan Braun, 011/3863-999 cian in the Serbian mainstream th today, violin virtuoso Nemanja opens next month, A co-production between film teams • Nexie, Vuk Smiljanić Nemanjina 4, 11pm SATURDAY FEBRUARY 4 [email protected] Radulović, will be performing on from France, Belgium and Switzerland, and Danijel Čerhanov, • Danijel Čerhanov, www.restoranamici.rs February 7th at the Ilija M. Kolarac say ‘resting on Friday night's feature, "Burning Out" is • Alex.Do (Dystopian) Brankow, Crnogorska 12, Dooshan and Goran Endowment. Known for the rock a documentary that follows surgical 11pm Starčević, Brankow, Berlin <§>, Drugstore, star flair of his performances, their laurels is not teams working in some of the biggest • Bokee and Marko Crnogorska 12, 11pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, Radulović will be sticking to the an option'. and busiest hospitals in Paris. Vuković, Mladost, • Peca and Ales, Mladost, 11pm classics, performing pieces from This very dramatic documentary Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • Die bipolar nacht, DOT, Hayden and J.S. Bach. Tickets shows hospital workers trying to save will cost between €15 and €27 • Dooshan, Ludost, • Cojke & Dooshan, Ludost, Francuska 6, 11pm KOLARAC lives despite being severely under- depending on seating. Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • AZAX live, IMAGO CUK, PROGRAMME staffed and overworked as manage- • Mancha + Panic, Gadost, • Nexie, Nenad Jovanović, Dečanska 14, 11pm Artist Ana Vujović David GALIĆ ment keeps cutting budgets and asking Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Nemanja Vanović Vuk • Alexandar Ivkovic, looks to the future them to work increasingly long, stress- ow in its 12th year, the filled hours. • Tranzit Weekend Fever, Smiljanić, DEE, Gadost, Scalameriya, Regen aka Belgrade artist Ana Vujović, Magnificent 7 Festival Saturday night's "Homo Sapiens" Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Milos Pavlović, Mihajlo, Tranzit, Braće Krsmanović whose work explores "society's of European Feature comes from Austrian Nikolaus Geyrh- Nikola 5. b2b Nemanja st th 8, 11pm • DJ Prema - RNB Night, TUESDAY, JANUARY 31 SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 5 interactions with the digital world Documentaries con- alter, who takes a deep look into human • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Cojke & Dooshan, Ludost, Music Gallery, 6pm Concert Hall, 11am and its relationship to our roots tinues to promote the existence and what it means to be hu- Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm 23, 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Art Fantasy, Public show recording Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber of traditional heritage", will be virtues of high art in man. The documentary tries to discuss • RNB Music by DJ • DJ Lucky, Witch Bar, • DJ Prema - RNB Night, Editor: Marina Stefanović Music opening her new installation at Nfilm through thick and thin. With cul- the fate of humans by trying to visual- Borchenzzy, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Admission free Sofija Grk, mezzo-soprano the Student City Culture Centre ture of all types getting less support in ize a time in which they no longer roam th • 031 Republic / DBDZ / Depra, 23, 11pm Sanja Stefanović, piano on January 30 . The exhibition, Belgrade from the city budget, most of the earth and by taking a closer look at Pariska 13, 10pm WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 1st • DJ Lacosta, Jimmy Woo, Programme: Durante, Paisiello, ‘The Future Repeated', takes look the work when it comes to promoting the interaction between mankind and • Kristijan Molnar all night DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm Music Gallery, 6pm Keel, Rodrigo, Elgar, De Falla, at the "so-called architecture film festivals still lies in the hands of the the planet we inhabit. long, DOT, Francuska 6, • Critical Bass, Cross Road, Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Daria Samofalova, piano Drozdov, Liszt, Saint-Saens, Masne, of the future", and the opening enthusiasts. Three more documentaries round 11pm Skadarska 40a, 10pm • Miško Plavi, Mikser House, Programme: Ravel, Chopin, Biset night will be supported by an Two such film fanatics and support- off the week, "Normal Autistic Film" on • Friday Swag, KPTM, Žorža • Loco, Petlja Bar, Bulevar Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Schumann experimental group of electro- Production: Music Centre ers are Zoran and Svetlana Popović, Kicking off the festival will be "Hello I am David!" Photo: Magnificent 7 Sunday, "Woman and the Glacier" on • Bob Marley Tribute Dečja Production: Music Centre acoustic improvisations by five Klemansoa 22, 11pm Vojvode Mišića 11, 9pm who have been running the festival Monday, and on the final night of the , Admission free Admission free musicians. • Maja Luis, Petlja Bar, • Amy's House, Elektropionir, Radost & Smoke'n'Soul since its inception. more official form of recognition in the mentary will be screened each night festival, "In Loco Parentis." Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Božidarac, Radoslava th THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2nd TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7 Kamerna Banda "Promoting films in this day and form of the Nebojša Popović Award, for seven nights at 8pm. This Irish/Spanish co-product ends Grujića 3, 8pm 9pm Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm play modern Serbian age has always called for a combative which honours the memory of the late Kicking off the festival will be "Hello the Magnificent 7 Festival on a cheerful th • The Few Fellas, Bricks SUNDAY JANUARY 29 • His Clancyness + Stepa, RTS Symphonic Orchestra Nemanja Radulović & Double Sense music approach. Although movies are eve- film critic and RTS director who died in I am David!" a beautiful documentary note, documenting two inspirational and Cans i Acoustic Bugz, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Conductor: Ivan Marković Nemanja Radulović, violin rywhere today, resting on your lau- 2015. that follows famed pianist David Helf- primary school teachers from Ireland This classical music quartet from Božidarac, Radoslava • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan 9pm Programme: Stefanović, Božić, Maja Bogdanović, cello rels is not an option. Now more than "Whatever you're doing, there's al- gott while he was on tour with the Stutt- and their interactions with their grate- Kragujevac features a soprano Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Maksimović, Repanić, Jovanović Laure Favre-Kahn, piano ever, we must continue to battle for ways a level of doubt as to whether gart Symphonic Orchestra in 2015. Helf- ful students. Grujića 3, 8pm accompanied by flute, violin and • Lost Paris Tapes, • Whells of Steel, Ludost, SUNDAY FEBRUARY 5th Production: RTS Music Production Programme: Rachmaninoff, Haydn, the promotion of the highest values what you are doing has any point to it," gott became a household name in the Tickets for any of the films at the fes- piano. They will be performing in film," Popović said in a recent in- Svetlana Popović said, adding that the late 1990s, when Jeffrey Rush played tival cost only three euros. For more in- Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Bach FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 3rd contemporary Serbian composi- terview with Radio Television Serbia, award had given her and her husband him in the movie "Shine," for which the formation, the Magnificent 7 website is 9pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Tickets prices: 1,800, 2,000 and tions on January 30th at the Bel- Concert Hall, 8pm RTS. added inspiration to keep the Magnifi- actor won an Academy Award. updated with all the latest information th Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 2,500 dinars grade Cultural Centre along with MONDAY JANUARY 30 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra While the response of film support- cent 7 alive and growing. Helfgott, a child prodigy, ended up and programme lists and synopses for flute/piano duo Jovana Vićentijević For Connoisseurs 3 th ers in Serbia to their work with the Mag- The 2017 edition of the Magnificent 7 having a mental breakdown and be- all seven featured documentary films th WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8 and Meri Bojić Radojčić. Entrance • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan MONDAY FEBRUARY 6 Conductor: Gabriel Feltz nificent 7 should be enough inspiration will be taking place in Sava Centre from coming institutionalized just as his ca- in both Serbian and English. www.mag- Music Gallery, 6pm is free. Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Soloist: Sergio Azzolini, bassoon to continue on, the two recently won a February 1st to 7th. As always, one docu- reer as a pianist was about to take off. nificent7festival.org Music Workshop • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan Programme: Liszt, Haydn, Vivaldi, Cycle: Lena Nikolov, violin TUESDAY JANUARY 31st Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Beethoven Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Jovana Nikolov, piano Katarina Hadži Antić, piano th Orchestra • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan TUESDAY FEBRUARY 7 Programme: Mozart, Chopin, FREE COPY Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 4th Brahms, Rajičić, Saint-Saens • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Concert Hall, 8pm Production: Music Centre Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Kolarac – Your world of Music Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Admission free • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, Nemanja & Friends Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 1st Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Nemanja Radulović, violin THURSDAY, FEBRARY 9th Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Laure Favre-Kahn, piano Concert Hall, 8pm Tijana Milošević, Ksenija Milošević Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 8th Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, and Guillaume Fontanarosa, violins BIRN editorial team: Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Kristina Atanasova and Aleksandra Soloist: Giovani Sollima, violoncello Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, 4, 11pm • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Kurilić, violas Programme: Szymanowski, [email protected] • Oysha, Ludost, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Maja Bogdanović and Dragan Sollima, Smetana Karađorđeva 44, 11pm 4, 11pm Đorđević, cellos Sales & Marketing: Marija Production: Belgrade Philharmonic • Dropkick Murphys, Programme: Haydn, Moszkowski, Petrović Orchestra nd Slapshot, Dom Omladine, Mendelssohn, Sedlar Phone: +381 11 4030 302 THURSDAY FEBRUARY 2 Makedonska 22, 9pm [email protected] • RNB Thursday Delight, • GREGORIAN, Hala Subscription & Distribution: Brankow, Crnogorska 12, sportova, Pariske komune Goran Knezevic 11pm 20, 9pm +381 11 4030 303 • Sky High – Hip Hop and [email protected] RNB, Mr Stefan Braun, THURSDAY FEBRUARY 9th Nemanjina 4, 11pm Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES Printing: POLITIKA štamparija • Igralom, Elektropionir, • RNB Thursday Delight, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, d.o.o. Cetinjska 15, 9pm 11pm ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3rd • Sky High – Hip Hop and COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 RNB, Mr Stefan Braun, Circulation: 4,000 • Hang on until the party Nemanjina 4, 11pm Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs is over, Mr Stefan Braun, • Hindi Zahra, Bitefartcafe, Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade Nemanjina 4, 11pm Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT 20/44 Bar: Belgrade's finest Ice and ‘frozen' swans stay cold-weather clubbing as Danube freeze continues

and whether it will have the same im- Freezing Belgrade now pact on Belgrade's nightlife. For now, it makes for an excellent alternative for temperatures have has a land-based those who seek a similar experience, winter alternative but without the desire to take a freezing turned Europe's trip down to the river. second longest to the 20/44 Just as the splav occupies a perfect summer spot – very close to the Brank- river, the Danube, splav: expect ov Bridge – the bar's location is ideal, no matter the season. It's located in into an ice rink and a particularly Belgrade's famous tourist trap, the Ska- darlija Street "bohemian quarter" in the favourite place for city centre. appealing music Situated on first floor of an old build- bird-lovers. ing that appears otherwise to be most- offering and ly empty, there are several reasons to savour the location. It's rare that a Ivana NIKOLIĆ atmosphere. club can open in downtown Belgrade without having to worry about noise ith temperatures complaints from neighbours. The lo- well below zero cal government has already imposed and a forecast say- David GALIĆ restrictions on clubs up the road in ing they might hit Cetinjska Street after neighbours com- minus ten degrees ver the last five years plained of sleepless nights. So the fact Celsius over the or so, 20/44 has be- that 20/44 Bar can stay open till four weekend,W the spectacle of ice, swans and come one of the most every night, without bothering any- Hungarian icebreakers – which have been famous clubs in all of body, already gives the club a signifi- trying to reopen frozen Danube in Serbia for days now – is here to stay. Belgrade. This small, cant leg up on the competition. Although Serbia is well used to harsh unique splav has The club's new iteration still seems winters, such low temperatures and frozen earnedO a reputation for being one of the – inadvertently or not – to be in some As expected, the club's strongest suit is its music and atmosphere, which are almost identical to those in the original 20/44 splav. Photo: Facebook/Bar 20/44 rivers have not been seen in years. Social absolute best places in Serbia to seek a kind of incognito mode, however, since networks have been overloaded with im- genuine underground clubbing experi- there are no signs pointing would-be defying dance move made famous in club on the river than a bar in the city. The club is still in its early stages, so ages of the ‘winter wonderland', as some clubbers to the new location. If you the video for "Smooth Criminal". The The service is a little lacklustre, and there's a lot of room for 20/44 Bar to ence of the highest order, and has made have dubbed it. it onto many "best European clubs" don't already know there's a club in interior is done up in the same spirit; you'll usually have to get up and go to forge its own identity, and perhaps be- Despite the freezing weather, many lists compiled by some of the most es- this isolated building, your chances of lively, colourful and detailed. the bar yourself to get a fresh drink. come as vital and popular as the origi- Belgraders are still coming out to walk on teemed international publications. stumbling upon it aren't great. There's 20/44 Bar, however, is bare. It's sim- The waits can be pretty long, too – es- nal club. Perhaps the decor will develop the river banks, where they are often seen Since many other splavs are closed a good chance, however, that the low- ply one large room with red walls and pecially when the club is full. And, as al- in a more interesting and original direc- feeding beautiful swans, taking photos of in wintertime, the owners of this popu- profile vibe is a deliberate effort to equally uninteresting dim, reddish ready noted, it's pretty dark and smoky, tion; perhaps the drinks prices will be them, or simply staring in astonishment lar nightspot recently opted to open a keep away the "padobranci" (literally, lighting. The coat check is right at the making it a bit tricky to navigate at the adjusted downwards; and perhaps the at the trapped, damaged splavs and ice all sister location in the heart of Belgrade's parachutists) – a derogatory term used entrance (it's not obligatory). There's weekends. 20/44 Bar will create an identity that's around. downtown, thus expanding their offer- to describe people who visit a club by a bar at one end of the room with a DJ As expected, the club's strongest suit more distinct from the original bar. For Watching swans from the riverbank, it's ing to those less inclined to trek down to chance, without fitting its patron profile. booth right next to it. There's some is its music and atmosphere, which are now, it's still an excellent place to visit if easy to think they are ‘trapped' in ice, but the river. In this new venue - the 20/44 Here's what you will see if you do find slightly more plush seating around the almost identical to those in the origi- you want the 20/44 experience without Belgrade-based animal organisation Ani- Bar - the well-loved club has spawned a 20/44 Bar. The décor of the new club is walls, and tall chairs around the rest of nal 20/44 splav. And while electronic the slog down to the banks of the frozen mal Rescue explains that the swans only land-based twin that gives clubbers the the complete opposite of the splav. The the club. music dominates, there seem to be river Sava. look that way, and are not really. However, perfect cold-weather alternative. original 20/44 is known for its unique, The negatives of the new venue more nights at 20/44 featuring under- they urged citizens to keep bringing them Of course, it remains to be seen if instantly recognisable look. Out in aren't many, but they are worth noting. ground rock music compared to the Bar 20/44 food. this new bar will take off to the same front, there's a statue of Michael Jack- The drink prices are pretty high, and splav, which is almost entirely geared Address: Skadarska 40c "People cannot see from the riverbank degree as the splav of the same name, son performing the inimitable, gravity- more in line with what you'd pay at a towards electronic sounds. Contact: +381 64 24 48 013 whether swans are in danger or not. They are lying in their natural position, and any attempt to help them can be risky for the ones trying to save them, and maybe even Gregorian visit Shy One drops the pointless because [the animal's position] does not necessarily mean it is frozen," the Belgrade on final tour beats at Drugstore organisation recently told Blic daily. The Zemun quay seems to be the favour- ite stop for swans, where adults and kids ne of the most popular vocal groups of the last decade, Grego- n up-and-coming DJ and beat producer from London, Shy One alike are seen feeding them, and kilos and rd rian, have decided to call it quits. However, fans in Belgrade will be playing Belgrade's Drugstore on Friday, February 3 . kilos of corn are left on the bank, waiting will get to see them one last time as they are playing at The female DJ is a perfect example of London's current for them. Photos: Beta Hala Sportova on February 8th. The German-English dance music scene, combining influences from every group have promised that the ‘Master of Chants – Final facet of the UK's underground culture. ChapterO Tour' will feature the most popular songs of their career. AShy One got her start in grime, but is not afraid to mix it up, whether If you haven't heard of Gregorian before, they perform hits songs DJing or producing, and her music combines influences from hip-hop from a variety of contemporary pop stars – including The Doors, and grime, broken beat, soul and funk. Queen, Lenny Kravitz and Coldplay – in the style of ancient Gregorian Support will be coming from Mystic Stylez, Belgrade's premier DJ collec- chant, with a rock band backing them at every show. tive when talking about underground, bass-heavy music. Feloneezy, Jackie Tickets for the show are already on sale and cost between €16 and €25 Dagger and Phillie P will be representing the group at Drugstore that night. depending on seating. Tickets will cost three euros at the door. AIRLINE TICKETS

Electro swing session with Parov Stelar Dropkick Murphys FOR THE WHOLE WORLD play sold-out show Probably the most popular Austrian Sanya D Rio update Yugo-nostalgia artist internationally, Parov Stelar will It's rumoured that the Dropkick Mur- Igralom deliver ‘Hillbilly Afro Funk' be bringing his ‘electro swing' sound - a phys' show is completely sold out and Performing at Madlenianum in mixture of vintage big-band swing and has been for some time. However, if Referring to their musical style as Zemun on February 3rd, Sanya D Rio is electronic dance music - to Belgrade you're a fan of this Boston-based punk ‘Hillbilly Afro Funk'," Igralom from Niš an interesting band who play classic Fest is best for tribute bands on April 8th. His real name is Marcus group, there is always the possibility are one of the coolest new alternative songs from the former Yugoslavia in a Fuereder, and you have probably heard that someone might be selling a ticket bands from the south of Serbia. They completely new way. It's a fairly risky Klub Fest is the club to visit if you are his songs in many adverts, movies and for the gig outside the Dom Omladine will introduce their eclectic sound to idea – to take popular Yugo-nostalgic looking for the best tribute bands in television shows over the past several venue on the night. The show is on Belgrade on February 2nd at Elektropi- tunes and perform them in an updated town. On February 9th, the Zemun- years. The concert will take place at February 8th and opening up for the onir. Belgrade noise rockers Crno Dete style – but Sanya D Rio pull it off with based venue will be hosting Prologue, Hala Sportova in New Belgrade; ticket Murphys are another legendary hard- will be opening and tickets will cost poise and confidence. Tickets will cost who mimic the music of The Police to www.flyflytravel.com prices have not been announced yet. core group, Slapshot. three euros at the door. five euros. perfection. Tickets only cost two euros. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 27 - Thursday, February 09, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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