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Issue No. 244 Friday, January 26, - Thursday, February 8, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

BELGRADE page 5 ELECTION: conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party WHO’S WHO E SO FAR Friday • June 13 2008 Here’s our round-up of parties and coalitions taking part in the THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED upcoming city vote, and what’s on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. known about their policies. T

Maja ZIVANOVIC

ith the Belgrade City wing Dveri party, despite their ideologi- Assembly election set cal differences. for March 4, voters will The vote is also widely seen as a criti- Wchoose between party cal test for President Aleksandar Vucic and coalition lists, some of which have and his party, the Progressives. already raised eyebrows. While the Progressives are the main The Socialists, a junior partner in the ruling party at all levels of government in ruling parliamentary coalition, will be Serbia, defeat in the capital would be seen going it alone in the Belgrade vote. as a significant reversal of fortune, per- The Enough is Enough Movement, haps indicating further losses in future by and large a socially progressive parliamentary and other local elections. group, surprised many by throwing their lot in with the reactionary, right- Continued on pages 2-3

Aleksandar Antic, a senior SPS official and current energy minister, is the Serbian Photo: Beta Socialist Party's Mayoral candidate for the Belgrade elections.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 3 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Continued from page 1 Belgrade Election: Who’s Who So Far

sion on January 10 that he is open Ex-Democrat Djilas will lead a to collaborating with all parties af- coalition between the Movement ter the vote, if they elect him may- of Free Citizens, led by Sasa Janko- or. Defending his decision to regis- vic, the former Ombudsman who ter a list of friends and families, he came second in the 2017 presiden- said he wanted to ensure no one tial election, and the People’s Party, defected to the Progressives after led by former Serbian diplomat Vuk the election. Jeremic. Under Djilas, the group have al- MARKO BASTAC ready secured the support of war veterans, unions and many public Marko Bastac, currently head of figures. the Stari Grad (Old City) municipal- Sasa Radulovic, head of the ity, has filed a list of independent Enough is Enough Movement, de- candidates he says includes LGBT fended the surprise coalition with activists, models, former ambas- the right-wing, pro-Russian Dveri sadors, economists and sports per- party by stressing the city elections sonalities. were about municipal affairs and not foreign policy issues and high- OFFICIAL LIST NAME: What Are lighted tackling local-level corrup- You Doing? tion is a key priority. Misa Vacic also announced his FIRST NAMED CANDIDATE: newly-formed, far-right Serbian Political newcomer Djordje Lajsic Right Wing movement will register a list. MAYORAL CANDIDATE: Luka Maksimovic, the Serbian Unknown political activist best known for his satirical political alter-ego Ljubisa KEY POLICIES: None announced Preletacevic Beli – a parody of poli- so far. ticians he uses to mock the system in Serbia – will also stand as Beli. Serbia’s public broadcaster, RTS, Let’s Not Drown Belgrade, the complained over the list title as it is group that led massive protests the same as one of their most popu- against the controversial Belgrade lar television shows. The Electoral Waterfront development, has also Commission rejected the complaint. announced it intends to register its own list. OTHER LISTS A Ninamedia poll published on January 19 suggests the Progres- Many other parties and candi- sive Party has most voter support, dates have declared they intend to at around 37 per cent, with Djilas stand, including former Belgrade ranked second on 14 per cent, and mayor, Dragan Djilas. Sapic third with around 9 per cent. Sasa Radulovic, head of the 'Enough is Enough' Movement, promise to tackle local-level corruption. Photo: Dosta je bilo

Serbian Foreign Minister Ivica Dacic (from left), Energy Minister, Aleksandar Antic and Dragan Markovic Palma in Sava Centar, on January 13. Photo: Beta

he race is expected to be pointing instead to their track record tegration with the Russian Federation” OFFICIAL LIST NAME: To Free Bel- fiercely contested, with in infrastructure development and during a press conference at the parlia- grade the party or coalition list their aim to make Belgrade a world- ment building. CITY ELECTION that wins the majority of class city. Vucic said only four party FIRST NAMED CANDIDATE: Prof Dr seats deciding who be- figures were in the top 25 candidates SERBIAN VOTING SYSTEM Vesna Rakic-Vodinelic comesT mayor of Belgrade. on the Progressive list. During a live TV SOCIALIST PARTY Parties and coalitions have until Feb- appearance in mid-January, he said Belgrade City Assembly MAYORAL CANDIDATE: Dragan Su- ruary 16 to register with the Election the famous Serbian swimmer Milorad The Socialists, SPS, have formed a coali- members are elected to tanovac, DS leader and former defence Commission, but here’s what we know Cavic was on the list, something Cavic tion list with United Serbia. serve four-year terms via a minister. so far. denied a day later via his Twitter ac- closed party-list proportional count. OFFICIAL LIST NAME: Coalition Ivica representation system. KEY POLICIES: Sutanovac, accord- SERBIAN Dacic, Socialist Party of Serbia – Dragan ing to an article published by the daily PROGRESSIVE PARTY SERBIAN Markovic Palma, United Serbia Voters select from pre- newspaper Blic on January 14, will reor- RADICAL PARTY registered party or coalition ganise policing “because it should not Vucic’s party was the first to register FIRST NAMED CANDIDATE: Alek- lists of candidates, circling be a paramilitary formation that intimi- its list, making sure to include Vucic’s This hardline, nationalist party is led sandar Antic, a senior SPS official and their preferred list on the ballot, dates and harasses citizens”. name in the official title in order to by Vojislav Seselj, who was acquitted in current energy minister. but cannot select individual capitalise on the president’s personal 2016 by the International Criminal Tri- candidates. Sutanovac has also said his party has popularity among voters, despite the bunal for the former Yugoslavia in The MAYORAL CANDIDATE: Also Antic. formed a team of anti-corruption ex- fact Vucic himself will not be standing Hague of nine charges of committing Parties/coalitions rank perts to investigate how the city assem- in the Belgrade election. atrocities during the Balkan wars of the KEY POLICIES: As a junior party in the candidates in order of bly works and plans to reorganise – and 1990s. Prosecutors have since sought national ruling coalition, few expect preference on lists, so the find fresh investment for - Belgrade’s OFFICIAL LIST NAME: Aleksandar to overturn his acquittal. the SPS to be an effective opposition at higher up the list a candidate public services. Vucic – Because We Love Belgrade. local level. is, the greater their chance of OFFICIAL LIST NAME: Dr Vojislav winning a seat. Every third- ALEKSANDAR SAPIC TOP RANKED CANDIDATE: Zoran Seselj – Serbian Radical Party Antic has underlined SPS candidates ranked candidate must be a Radojicic, director of the city’s Univer- are from a broad spectrum of society woman. The former water polo star and current sity Children’s Hospital Tirsova and FIRST NAMED CANDIDATE: Seselj and key priorities include social care head of the Novi Beograd (New Bel- professor at the University of Belgrade’s himself for the most vulnerable, support for Party/Coalition lists must win grade) municipality has decided to run School of Medicine. Radojicic is not a the elderly, unemployed, children, and at least five per cent of the vote his own list, said to include only close member of any political party. MAYORAL CANDIDATE: Miljan Dam- students. to take any of the assembly’s friends and family. janovic, a sitting Serbian Radical Party 110 seats. MAYORAL CANDIDATE: The party is MP DEMOCRATIC OFFICIAL LIST NAME: Aleksandar not backing the current mayor, Sinisa PARTY The city mayor is chosen by Sapic – The Mayor Mali, but has not named its candidate. KEY POLICIES: The party has not elected assembly members. Some have speculated Radojicic could yet published a manifesto for the city The Democratic Party, DS, has agreed a While many parties/coalitions FIRST NAMED CANDIDATE: Sapic be chosen. vote but it is vehemently anti-EU and coalition list with some smaller parties: name their chosen mayoral anti-NATO. It advocates closer rela- the Social Democratic Party, the New candidate before the election, MAYORAL CANDIDATE: Sapic KEY POLICIES: The Progressives tions with Russia and in January, Dam- Party and the Green Ecological Party – they are not required to do so. are yet to set out any formal policies, janovic went so far as the call for “full in- Green. KEY POLICIES: Sapic told N1 televi- 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Serbia Ruling Party Opens Office at Concentration Camp

Kafe Bar 16 has successfully attracted so-called ‘digital nomads’ who find the café/bar ideal as a workspace. Photo: Courtesy of Kafe Bar 16

The Progressive Party office at the Staro Sajmiste (Old Trade Fair) site. Photo: BIRN/Filip Rudic

concentration and extermination camp Belgrade city manager Goran Vesic However city manager Vesic insisted The ruling Serbian Progressive Party for Belgrade's Jews, Serbs and Roma. said in January that Staro Sajmiste that a memorial centre will be built. The Progressive Party's decision to will become a "regional centre for "We have moved people out of the The New Café Staffed has opened an office at the site of a hang a large party banner across one of Holocaust research", which will be es- [central] tower, we're finishing the draft the buildings that made up the concen- tablished with the help of Israel's Yad law which will enable the project to World War II concentration camp in tration camp complex also attracted Vashem remembrance centre. move further, and we are simultane- some criticism on social media. "There will be three museums, one ously working on the memorial centre by Street Children Belgrade, drawing criticism from rights "They don't belong there, a Holocaust dedicated to the suffering of the Jews, project," he said. campaigners. museum is supposed to be built," one another for the Serbs and a third for the Kisic noted however that the first Twitter user wrote. "I could cry," com- Roma," Vesic said on January 11. draft of the law had to be withdrawn mented another. Some 10,000 Serbs, 7,000 Jews last year after a public outcry. Siri SOLLIE youngsters in the future, with any profit from one day to the next, and his job way, but we have also the conditions to Filip RUDIC Rights, claimed that there is "obviously The banner was hung on the wall of and at least 60 Roma died at Staro Sa- "[It] completely denied the involve- made from the venture being ploughed is to keep the motivation going among be part of the nightlife of Belgrade," says no real intention to create a memorial the Spasic Pavilion, where the camp's jmiste in 1941 and 1942. The camp was ment of Serbia and [wartime Serbian umerous cafe/bars have back into the drop-in shelters. the youth to steadily progress into “nor- Jordovic. erbian President Aleksandar centre" at the Staro Sajmiste (Old Trade hospital used to be, and has since been run by the Waffen SS but the Serbian premier] Milan Nedic's government [in come and gone as part Marko Tosic, executive director of mal life". So far the two-floor café has success- Vucic's Progressive Party, Fair) site. taken down. The Progressives' office is police carried out the arrests of the the camp]," she said. of Belgrade’s vibrant day CIM and legal representative of Kafe “Many of them don’t even have for- fully attracted business from various which also holds power in "[The grounds] are supposed to be located in an adjacent building. Jews. Kisic also said that it was a "disgrace" and nightlife. The open- Bar 16, told BIRN 16-year-olds remain mal papers in order… and many have NGOs who rent the location for private the capital Belgrade, has at- cleared [of occupants], but instead we The party did not respond by the After the war, nothing was done to that Serbia does not have a memorial ing of another is hardly highly vulnerable as they are more of never had any encounters with a bank, events, as well as so-called ‘digital no- tracted criticism for opening see the reverse process taking place," time of publication to BIRN's questions preserve the site of the former concen- centre dedicated to the persecution of Nunusual, but Kafe Bar 16 really is unlike less left to fend for themselves. for instance, so we want to improve mads’ who find Kafe Bar 16 ideal as a San office at the site of a former Nazi-run Kisic told BIRN. about its decision to open an office at tration camp. A monument to the vic- Jews in World War II. any other. The café is the “After they turn 16, many of these their chances in society so that they workspace. They are already just about camp which is meant to be turned into Located in the part of Belgrade that the site. tims was erected nearby in 1995. Serbia's Federation of Jewish Com- Kafe Bar 16 opened its doors at 46 best place to children will be on the streets and can more easily depart from their cur- breaking even. a memorial complex. was handed over to the Nazi-puppet In- The Belgrade city authorities also did The buildings have been used for a munities declined to comment on the Gospodar Jovanova in the Dorcol might suffer from many risks," says Tos- rent surroundings," Otasevic says. “For the first month, we are at positive Izabela Kisic, the executive director dependent State of Croatia during war- not answer BIRN's inquiry about their variety of purposes, housing artists, a opening of the Progressive Party's of- neighbourhood just over a month develop [their] ic. “The idea of Kafe Bar 16 was to give “The fight against discrimination is zero," Jordovic laughs. “Mathematically, of the Helsinki Committee for Human time, the Staro Sajmiste was used as a plans for the memorial. restaurant, and a gym. fice at Staro Sajmiste. ago. It is a social enterprise run by the them skills and in turn provide them what drives us to do this… most of our I am not quite sure if such a thing exists, Centre for Youth Integration (Centar social skills, in with a job." motivation to work here is to help these but after our first month we paid all the za integraciju mladih, CIM) and offers Tosic adds that most of the children children… People think the Roma don’t salaries and some of the renovation disadvantaged and socially-excluded the sense to who use the shelter are members of the want to work but they don’t want to debts, so we are positive." ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR youth a stepping stone into the labour highly-disadvantaged Roma commu- wash cars on the streets at the traffic The café stays open from 8am until +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] Find your copy of market. break some nity and many are orphans. lights or perform waste management midnight and also offers evening shows As the project has just got off the Social worker Milan Otasevic has such as glass and paper recycling," Du- with various DJ sets. It has also hosted a Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight ground, the café currently has just four barriers in terms worked for CIM’s Svratiste drop-in san Jordovic, the manager of Kafe Bar roundtable for comic book fans. trainees aged between 16 and 21. All of language, shelter in the Zvezdara neighbour- 16, chips in. For Jordovic, the priority is for Kafe had previous contact with one of two hood - the other day shelter is in New “Most of them dream of a normal life Bar 16 to continue attracting customers MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL daytime drop-in shelters run by CIM learn how to be Belgrade - for 12 years. He underlines with a job, an account at the bank with so it can become a permanent fixture of Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla that provide hot meals, clothing and ed- that for some of these children eve- the opportunity to rent an apartment. Belgrade’s café and bar scene. Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v ucational programmes to children aged in contact with ryday contact with society and rou- Everything that is normal for any hu- “It is quite exciting, we are still not HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A five to 15 who live or work on the streets. tines that most of us take for granted man being." sure about the reaction from our Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA Most of the café trainees are 16 years people and to represent an alien, totally unfamiliar As manager of the café, Jordovic is in guests," he says. SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 of age – hence the name of the café. world. charge of turning Kafe Bar 16 into a prof- Jordovic adds that he hopes other HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 Over 15s are no longer able to use the offer some new “The café is the best place to develop itable business. cafes will also follow their lead and hire Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA drop-in shelters’ facilities and the café is [their] social skills, in the sense to break CIM has received initial funding from those youngster after their training and Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD an attempt to continue to help vulner- paths in life. some barriers in terms of language, the Church World Service and the Ser- work experience at Kafe Bar 16. CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE able youth find work and stability. learn how to be in contact with people bian Ministry of Labour, Employment, He wants to encourage as many peo- NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 The current trainees are complet- and to offer some new paths in life", Veteran and Social Affairs, but Kafe Bar ple as possible to come and have a cof- FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade ing evening school training to prepare says Otasevic. 16 is expected to eventually stand on its fee or beer at the cafe. Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC them for working in the café. By the own feet financially. “We are not asking for donations, just BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 end of January, they are expected to FIGHTING DISCRIMINATION “One day we have 20 guests, another for you to come here and drink your cof- Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult undertake their work experience pro- day 60, we are still trying to find out fee, as a huge part of the profit will go to HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 grammes at Kafe Bar 16. Otasevic calls the surroundings what kind of groups will visit us… in a the Belgrade drop-in shelters," he says. Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL CIM hopes the project will take off Milan Otasevic where Roma children often grow up as way, we are trying to find out whether To find out more about CIM, visit: Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 and that they will be able to train more Social worker “informal societies" where people live we should be a day bar and work in that www.cim.org.rs 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS Obrenovac Find Heightens Economic Gap Between Serbia Fears About and Europe Still Widening Despite cutting its Chemical debt, the chasm Dumping between Serbia’s economy and Concern about the Chemistry Faculty, was quoted by Poli- tika as saying that the petrochemical the rest of Europe amount of hazardous Benzene is one of the most dangerous material being illegally chemicals detected by the researchers, is continuing as it is proven to increase the risk of can- dumped in Serbia cer and other illnesses. to grow – partly have risen after tonnes Analyses also revealed quantities of cyclohexane, which is produced by hy- because of such waste were drogenation of benzene, and is most common in the production of nylon and there is not found in a Belgrade paint removers. suburb. Although cyclohexane is an organic nearly enough material and is not considered carcino- genic, Pfent said it contains narcotic and investment, Siri SOLLIE mutagenic characteristics that can af- fect the human nervous system. experts say. erbia’s Ministry of Environ- ”It is even more dangerous if it gets mental Protection revealed in transformed into other, harmful sub- late December that it had dis- stances,” Pfent said, according to Politika. Stevan VELJOVIC Scovered 20 tons of hazardous The dumped waste was discovered waste, secretly buried on private land in close to business premises in Vukicevica. ollowing the successful im- a village in Obrenovac, a suburban mu- Soon after it was found, police arrest- plementation of austerity nicipality of Belgrade. ed a man suspected of improperly dis- measures and a reduction An investigation was launched soon posing of the chemicals. The barrels and of its public debt to below after in the village of Vukicevica, which containers were scattered over fields 60 per cent of GDP, Serbia’s led to the discovery of a further 300 bar- near the suspect's home. Fgovernment, international financial rels of dangerous waste, buried at two Goran Trivan, the environmental The dangerous waste was discovered close to business premises in Vukicevica. Photo: Beta institutions and economic experts all other nearby sites. protection minister, described Serbia expect it to achieve stronger economic Some of the contents of the barrels as “very polluted as a consequence of cording to an article published in Danas panies went bankrupt. Now, more than Asked whether Serbia has any facili- growth in 2018. have since been analysed by Vinca, irresponsible behaviour of individuals”, on January 18. 200 registered plants produce 80,000 ties to process hazardous waste now, After modest growth of only 2 per the Institute of Nuclear Sciences, in Bel- according to an article published by the However, at present, Serbia lacks fa- tons of waste per year,” Mitrovic said, ac- ministry spokeperson Ivana Petrovic cent in 2017, both Serbia’s Ministry of Fi- grade. N1 news website in late December. cilities to process hazardous waste. cording to a Politika article published on said in an email that Serbia has ways to nance and the IMF forecast that its GDP Its researchers found high levels of The Obrenovac municipality, howev- It is estimated that more than January 12. process some types of hazardous waste would rise by 3.5 in this year. Oleamide compounds and other chemi- er, has announced that new methods of 300,000 tons of chemical waste are not In a statement to BIRN, the Ministry ”but, of course, not all”. However, in terms of development cals, such as cyclohexane, benzene, dealing with illegal waste dumping will being properly disposed of, according to of Environmental Protection, respond- Events in Obrenovac, however, have and income levels, Serbia is still far benzyl alcohol, phenyl and styrene, the be introduced. a director of Serbia’s Chamber of Com- ing to this criticism, said that in coop- renewed fears about how much danger- behind the EU, and also behind South daily Politika reported on January 22. “Depending on the waste, in addition merce and Industry, Sinisa Mitrovic. eration with German and Austrian ous waste is simply being dumped in Eastern Europe SEE countries; its cur- Dr Petar Pfent, a retired professor to fines, criminal complaints will be filed “A quantity of 300,000 tons of ‘his- environmental institutions as part of meadows or hidden in warehouses and rent growth rate remains too small and of chemistry and environmental pro- against these person,” the municipal toric’ waste emerged in the Socialist and the TVINING project, Serbia had devel- hangars across the country. too slow. tection at the University of Belgrade’s president, Miroslav Cuckovic, said ac- post-Socialist period, when large com- oped a plan for waste management. Some local and international experts say Serbia’s economy needs to grow at According to the economic journal Quarterly Monitor, recovery in agriculture and energy sector is key for Serbia to reach a GDP growth rate of 4 per cent in 2018. Photo: Beta least 5 per cent a year to catch up – but Joze Mencinger, a Slovenian econo- sis and Trends, a Serbian monthly eco- a period of 15 to 20 years. We believe it “The reasons for lower level of invest- Vladimir Gligorov, from the Vienna mist, stresses that such high growth nomic journal, said in January. is possible for Serbia to realize annual ments in Serbia are related to structural Institute of International Economic City Readies to Close Old Railway Station rates are hard to sustain in the longer Instead, the gap between Serbia and growth of 5 to 6 per cent. But this re- weaknesses – in the rule of law, the in- Studies, predicts that Serbia's GDP will term. the rest of the region seems to be slowly quires resetting the economy," Ndegwa efficiency of state administration, high grow only by 2.6 per cent in 2018. Since December 10, most train routes “Five-per-cent growth is not likely increasing rather than decreasing. said. levels of corruption, weak infrastruc- In an interview for NIN weekly, pub- The closure of pass through Belgrade’s new official over a longer period," Mencinger told Serbia’s growth rate in 2017 was not To boost growth rates, Serbia would ture – which can be eliminated only lished on January 18, he recalled that central train station at Prokop, close to BIRN. only lower than average growth rate need to speed up key reforms, Ndegwa with medium-term reforms in these ar- Serbia's Ministry of finance and the the old railway Hyde Park in the city centre’s Savski Ve- Other experts believe that such high for Central and Eastern Europe, which said, adding that the World Bank would eas, which Serbia persistently avoids," Fiscal Council, the independent body nac municipality. growth rates are possible, but depend was 4.5 per cent, but was also lower assist this process, focusing on support- it said. charged with assessing Serbia's public station at Only international trains and ser- on hard work and tough choices on the compared to the economically weaker ing taxation reform, privatization of re- According to Macroeconomic Analy- finances, predict growth of 3.5 to 4 per vices to Novi Sad are still routed part of the government. group of Western Balkan economies, maining public companies and attract- sis and Trends, faster economic growth cent per cent. Savski Venac through the Savski Square station, where the figure was 2.9 per cent. ing foreign direct investments. in Serbia depends on several key condi- But this was based on an assump- although these will be transferred to FALLING BEHIND According to Quarterly Monitor, an tions, including increased investment, tion that this growth would have been marks the end the new main station at Prokop from NEIGHBOURS AND OTHER economic journal published by Serbia’s NOT ENOUGH INVESTMENT modernization of infrastructure, a achieved in 2017, had the economy July 1. COUNTRIES Foundation for the Advancement of IN ECONOMY more efficient administration, techno- not been set back by cold winter and of an era – and The old Savski Venac building dates Economics, Serbia’s cumulative GDP logical modernization of the industrial drought last year. back to 1884, when the first train de- World Bank data put Serbia’s GDP per growth from 2014 to 2017 was around Most local and international experts sector and better education. However, increasingly obvious promises more parted from Belgrade. The city authori- capita in 2016 at 5,426 US dollars. 5 per cent, compared to 15 per cent in agree over what needs to be done in Some experts note that the EU coun- weather changes have negatively af- ties have said they intend to convert it That is higher than Bosnia, Albania comparable countries in the CEE area. Serbia to boost economic growth – but tries do not stand still, waiting for others fected the entire Balkan region for the disruption into a museum, although the local daily and Macedonia – but behind other In its latest regular report for the West- the list of preconditions is a long one. to catch up with them, however. past few years – and this trend is ex- Politika reported on January 20 that countries in the region. ern Balkans, for autumn 2017, the World Quarterly Monitor, in its latest July- “If we counted on the economies in pected to worsen, experts say. for railway city officials are yet to decide whether Serbia falls well behind its neigh- Bank predicted that Serbia’s economy September edition, wrote that recovery the EU growing by 2 per cent, the pre- “It is probably not inaccurate to it will focus on the Serbian Middle Ages bours Montenegro and Bulgaria, where would grow in 2018 and 2019 by 3 per in agriculture and energy sector is key sent situation and current gap [with Ser- forecast that medium-term potential passengers. or Serbian history generally. income per capita is 7,023 and 7,469 US cent and 3.5 per cent respectively. for Serbia to reach a GDP growth rate of bia] would still matter," Joze Mencinger economic growth is somewhere up to Plans to reroute trains date back dollars respectively. But this is still lower than projected 4 per cent in 2018. told BIRN. 3 per cent, which is much more worry- to the 1970s, when the then Belgrade It is even further behind other, more average growth rates in the six Western However, it stressed that this growth He recalled that convergence be- ing than eventual slower recovery this Siri SOLLIE Mayor Branko Pesic began construction developed countries, such as Hungary, Balkan economies, estimated at 3.3 and rate is still not fully sustainable, and tween the so-called “new" and “old" year," Gligorov said in his interview. work on Prokop. Since then, works on Croatia and Romania, which have al- 3.6 per cent respectively. was still below the CEE average of 4.5 states of Europe had continued until In his opinion, Serbia’s growth rate is ore changes to Belgrade’s rail- the station have been off and on, but the most twice Serbia’s GDP per capita. In a New Year interview for the Ser- per cent in 2017. the 2009 economic crisis. slow compared to most countries in the way routes are expected in approval of the Belgrade Waterfront pro- Since December 10, most train routes pass through Belgrade’s new official central train station at Prokop. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Orjen Greece and Slovakia have three bian daily Blic, Steven Ndegwa, the One key structural reason why Ser- “The big drop in the crisis allowed region mainly because of a change in Mthe next few months, with the ject in 2014 led to city officials speeding times and Slovenia almost four times World Bank’s manager for Serbia, also bia is lagging behind is the low level rapid growth afterwards due to a low the source of growth – from consump- city’s former main station at Savski Ve- up the process of turning Prokop into Built in 1884, the Topcider station year and are expected to be complet- As reported by Belgrade Insight in No- Serbia's GDP per capita. said Serbia needed at least 5-per-cent of investment in the economy; it was base, enabled mostly by export de- tion and production for domestic mar- nac closing permanently on July 1. the new, main city train station. has not been used for decades and is ed in 2020. vember, city officials also plan to move To close this gap, Serbia’s economy growth to catch up with the rest of the about 18 per cent of GDP in 2016, com- mand, especially in the ‘old’ Europe," he ket towards investment and exports. Some train routes have already been So-called ‘auto-trains’ – trains that currently being renovated to allow for The new infrastructure plans have the main city bus station to Novi Beograd would have to grow at over 5 per cent region over about 15 years. pared to 22 per cent of GDP in other CEE added. “Previously … the model was – foreign- altered to allow for urban planning re- transport cars from Belgrade to Bar the temporary transit of ‘auto-trains’. been heavily criticised by many city (New Belgrade), with works beginning in for a number of years. But at its current growth rate, this countries. And, contrary to other relatively op- ers were investing and domestic people forms that will also make way for the in neighbouring Montenegro – will be The ‘auto-trains’ will eventually be dwellers, who argue there is no clear 2020. This has further annoyed some But that is provided also that EU and process could take some 50 years, he “For growth rates to be higher than in timistic forecasts, some experts predict were spending. However, what is need- construction of the controversial Bel- temporarily routed via the old train re-routed via the Zemun train station, public benefit from building a new residents, who say this will complicate SEE economies grew by less than 3 per added. other CEE countries, the share of invest- that Serbia will have difficulties even in ed is to invest more and to export more. grade Waterfront development in the station at Topcider in the Senjak neigh- in the west end of the city. Work at Ze- main station that is also further from journeys that combine bus and train cent annually over the same period, “People can’t grasp such a long pe- ment in [Serbia’s] GDP would need to in- achieving predicted 3.5 per cent GDP This change takes place very slowly – Savamala district of the city. bourhood as of July 1. mun are due to begin at the end of the the city centre. travel, particularly during rush hour. the authors of Macroeconomic Analy- riod of time but they can comprehend crease to around 25 per cent," it wrote. growth in 2018. hence the slower growth," he explained. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 9 REGION FACES COMMENT 'My The EU is Watching the Spiritual Balkans Come Undone Voyage Outbursts of Within' violence, illiberal leaders and fail- Dejan Koturovic, we can get from nature and traditions ures to reform coming from all over the planet." the former Yugo- At first, he teamed up with a lo- mean Brussels cal alternative medicine expert and must wake up to slav basketball star opened a treatment centre in Bel- grade, which didn't last long as he was the fact that the turned spiritual drawn further into his own explora- tion and self-development. Through Balkans are not healer, on the impor- contact with some other explorers on his travels and on the internet, he headed towards tance of knowing discovered the properties of the Aya- what to hold on to, huasca plant. EU membership Ayahuasca is a plant that grows in and what to let go. the Amazon basin and is known to but towards in- have hallucinogenic effects. It is often stability. used in shamanic traditions among the indigenous nations of South America. Milan RADONJIC Its use has attracted controversy, Jasmin MUJANOVIC with some concerned about its impact ith the national on those with mental health issues in liver Ivanovic, the long- basketball team, particular. Koturovic himself insists it time Serb opposition Dejan Koturovic is highly beneficial. leader in Kosovo, has won two gold "It is a plant which is our teacher been gunned down in medals. The first at and helper. Plants live in a state that northern Mitrovica. theW 1995 European Championship in we could call 'natural communism', a OIn Bosnia and Herzegovina's Re- Athens, Greece and the second at the community connected by the inten- publika Srpska entity, meanwhile, the 2002 World Championship in Indian- tion to help and feel for each other Milorad Dodik government has re- apolis, USA. as much as possible. I would call this cruited the services of Russian-backed Despite all the fame and accolades an experience of universal love," he paramilitaries in an overtly authoritar- for the sporting achievements of what says. ian turn meant to draw into question he refers to dismissively as his "previ- Koturovic himself has been through the validity of the upcoming general ous life", Koturovic is not much into the Ayahuasca ritual approximately elections in the country. professional sports these days. 50 times, mostly in Peru, but also here And if we cast our memories a few "One friend invited me to play re- in the Balkans. months back, we will recall that Zoran cently, and after the first half I was "So you see, the knowledge is Zaev, now the prime minister of Mac- feeling all the old injuries and my spreading," he says. edonia, was nearly killed in an attack whole body was inflamed. I am more Rituals can last for several hours. on the parliament when supporters into swimming and some easy going Koturovic, however, denies the plants of the old VMRO-DPMNE government Aleksandar Vucic carrying a wreath for Oliver Ivanovic. Photo: AP Photo/Visar Kryeziu forms of activity," he says. cause hallucinations: "These are vi- stormed the building last April. As a professional athlete, Koturovic sions, important points of your previ- While there is no direct link between This is a fool's errand. No country there are no actual outstanding issues Kosovo into a Belgrade-administered says he was put under immense pres- ous inner experience, quite vivid and these events, they each nevertheless With the in the region will be a credible mem- between the two countries. mafia province. sure by coaches and missed out on op- colourful, reminding you what you gesture at an alarming emerging reality bership candidate seven years from Indeed, if the diplomatic backroom Milorad Dodik will continue to chip portunities to expand his knowledge should work on and what you should about the Western Balkans at the dawn exception of the now, with the possible exception of chatter is to be believed, relations be- away at the legitimacy, transparency of other aspects of life, something he get rid of. It is a spiritual voyage, within of a new year: violence and the threat of Montenegro. And even there, we are tween the two are so warm that Rama and integrity of the 2018 polls in Bos- now regrets. oneself, and the universe." US diplomatic As a professional athlete, Koturovic says he was put under immense pressure by coaches and missed Photo: BIRN/Milan Radonjic violence are returning to the forefront suggesting that a country that has not and Vucic are preparing to negotiate nia and Herzegovina in order to en- He also says he doesn't have much Today, he also uses Iboga, an Afri- out on opportunities to expand his knowledge of other aspects of life. of regional political life in a way unseen intervention in witnessed a (democratic) government the partition of Kosovo at some point in sure that, come hell or high water, he respect for professional sport any- can hallucinogenic plant and under- since the end of the Kosovo war. transition in nearly three decades is the future. will remain the 'glavna baja' in Banja more. In his opinion, it is not healthy lines that all these substances should the process of self-realisation and es- Although he is aware of many un- The reason for that is more or less the Macedonia last a leading EU membership candidate. Whether the rumour is true or not, Luka. (I have previously warned of this - physically or psychologically - for be used with care and with the guid- pecially in the treatment of the strong- fortunate global developments, Ko- same throughout the region: the demo- That is simply absurd. the fact that this too is a plausible yarn as well). those on the field and those who ance of experienced shaman. est addictions like heroin, alcohol or turovic believes that we as humans cratic project in the Balkans is in peril. year, the West, Meanwhile, Serbia, Bosnia and Her- – and it is – is further proof of how mar- And depending on which direction watch. Iboga and its derivative (Ibogaine) gambling," he insists. are progressing, learning more and Entrenched elites, and their assorted zegovina, Kosovo, Macedonia, and ginal Brussels and Washington have the Macedonian name dispute heads, "During my professional career are illegal or restricted in numerous Rituals last longer, for a day and a more about ourselves and our nature. proxies, have sensed the weakening and in particular Albania are simply not credible candi- become to the political machinations no one should be surprised if VMRO- I had a lot of injuries and, since my European countries, but in Serbia its I was earning a lot half or even two days, and result, he "So we have now more possibilities of the Euro-Atlantic order in the region dates. of local elites. DPMNE extremists again revert to vio- teenage years, I have experienced status remains undecided. It is, how- says, in a great deal of physical cleans- to learn, know and become more than and, as I warned last year, are now see- the EU, has been Serbia, in particular, is arguably the To claim otherwise is to be wilfully lence against the new government in insomnia, which brought even more ever, legal in Brazil, Costa Rica, Mexico, of money when ing for the body and personal devel- what we are, but there are also a lot of ing what kinds of new realities Brussels most problematic of the bunch, with its naive or ignorant about the lack of Skopje. challenges for the body. This caused Gabon (the spiritual home of Iboga) opment. traps, false knowledge, and incorrect and Washington will allow them to cre- watching the overt drift towards one-man rule under substantive political and democratic There is also a fairly high chance that several interventions on my joints, the Netherlands, New Zealand and I was playing "I have learned that purification information that can confuse us. We all ate on the ground. Balkans boil over President Aleksandar Vucic. And given reform that has taken place in any of Johannes Hahn and Federica Mogh- and I was always looking for some sort South Africa. basketball, but I and progress of the spirit has no end, have black days, but then, we also know The use of violence to imperil or halt his government's latent nationalist ten- these countries, and how brazen the erini will release repeated press state- of therapy to treat these problems." Iboga's controversial status comes while the process of defilement has: that there is always a way to see new the work of opposition figures, to com- with hardly a dencies, in the event that Belgrade were respective ruling establishments have ments assuring us that there is "no alter- Searching for solutions, he has vis- from the potential harm it can do. It don’t remember it is death. We all have a chance in light and feel great again. So it is neces- promise the conduct of free elections, to be brought into the fold by 2025, it become in their illiberal plotting. Unfor- native" to the region's European future. ited chiropractors and natural healers is known that high doses can cause this beautiful life to progress and to sary to search, and ultimately this will and/or the peaceful transfer of power, comment. would almost certainly guarantee that tunately, wilful naiveté and ignorance These, as ever, will stand in harsh in Serbia and abroad. This continued heart failure in people with pre-ex- being more help each other. This is my motiva- bring us to the goal that we strive for." are all related first-order tests. And so Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo and are par for course as concerns the EU's contrast to the emerging (in)security even after his professional sporting isting heart conditions, and its other tion." However, in his opinion, politics is far, the international community is span of just over half a year and alarm Macedonia would be actively blocked Balkan policy. realities in the Western Balkans. activities ended in 2003. side effects on humans remain insuf- satisfied then I am However we live in material world, an agent of evil. largely failing to uphold its commit- bells are not blaring in Brussels is a in their membership aspirations by So what should we expect in the ficiently tested. today. something he acknowledges. "They [politicians] could bring ments to the region. scathing indictment of the European Serbia. coming months? Quite simply, the situ- SHAMANIC RITUALS "I was earning a lot of money when something better if they would agree With the exception of the US diplo- security posture in the region, suggest- And yet, contrary to all possible com- ation will become more volatile and Dr. Jasmin Mujanovic is a political 'NOT FOR I was playing basketball, but I don't to free themselves of their real motiva- matic intervention in Macedonia last ing that it is in essence non-existent. mon sense, this is precisely what the EU more dangerous. scientist specialising in the politics of "I have travelled to South America RECREATIONAL USE' remember being more satisfied then tions, like greed and lust for power. We year, the West, and in particular the Instead, as far as Brussels is con- appears to be gearing up to achieve. The true culprits behind Ivanovic's south-eastern Europe and of post-au- [and] Africa, learning about different I am today. A lot of money can de- are surrounded by both positive and EU, has been watching the Balkans boil cerned, the primary concern is its most Albania may yet have a chance, if murder are unlikely to be identified. thoritarian and post-conflict democrati- traditions, some involve rituals, some "This is a very powerful plant and stroy you. I think we always receive negative energies. The collective de- over with hardly a comment. recent, and completely fictitious, time- only because Edi Rama and Aleksandar That is, those who spent years vilifying sation. His first book, 'Hunger and Fury: not, but I believe it is important for a should not be used for recreational as much as we can process at the mo- cides who eventually wins in this bat- The very fact that we have now had line: how to ensure the remaining West- Vucic are keen to play peacemakers on him as an enemy of the Serb people and The Crisis of Democracy in the Balkans' person to think about the possibili- purposes. It is more difficult to under- ment, both information and every- tle, so optimism and hope are much a string of violent incidents within the ern Balkan states join the EU by 2025. each other's behalf, especially because more generally transforming northern is now available from Hurst Publishers. ties to heal oneself, with all the help stand its effects, but it is very helpful in Dejan Koturovic thing else." needed." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful drinking - Chill Out this Winter at wine list a Serbian Spa reviews Corner Wine Equally good for the Italian 'aperitivo' If you're looking for some- and beauty treatments, Serbian spas are a perfect and for a glass of getaway if you are looking for a quick February wine with pizza. where to spend a long break. Belgrade Insight gives you the low-down on weekend, why not try Pavle GOLICIN three of the best. one of the country's top he wine list at Trattoria BUKOVICKA BANJA Campania consists of 50-ish health resorts? labels. It comes as no sur- prise that its primary focus This spa is in Arandjelovac, a town located in T is on Italian wines, which constitute the famous wooded Sumadija district of central about two thirds of the options. The Ivana NIKOLIC Serbia. The town – as well as the spa – lies in the house wine comes from 'Cantine shadow of two mountains, Bukulja and Vencac, 75 Ronco' – a standard Italian producer ntil recently one could argue that kilometres southeast from Belgrade (about a one- of bulk, table wines. The non-Italian wines are predominantly Serbian. spas – banjas in Serbian – were not hour drive). Approximately a dozen in total are just hidden but also forgotten na- Bukovicka Banja was built in the mid-19th Cen- available by the glass. tional gems. In the past few years, tury by the Obrenovic dynasty as the Serbian While the wine options are gener- however, the country's 50 or so equivalent of Germany's Baden and the Czech ally fine, I would like to see more healthU resorts have again begun to draw quite a Republic's Karlsbad, where the well-to-do went to depth to the list so that it provides a broader selection of styles from number of domestic and overseas tourists. 'take' the sulphuric waters. The complex boasted a greater variety of geographical According to the Serbian Touristic Organisation, the Obrenovic's magnificent old summer palace, regions. The same goes for clarity of a total of 477,102 people visited spas during 2016, which was later a grand hotel but has fallen into the wine list – it needs to be easier a 12 per cent increase on 2015. The most included disrepair during the last decade or so due to a to follow for someone who is not were Bukovicka Banja in Arandjelovac, Vrnjacka failed privatisation deal. as familiar with the Italian brands by adding more information about Banja and Banja Vrdnik. Figures for 2017 are not During your stay at Bukovicka Banja, you can Authenticity Meets the origins of the wine. The wine yet available. enjoy its huge 22-hectare park. The first walking list on the website at the point of Almost all the popular spas have been built on paths were built – and trees planted - in 1849. Its our visit was not synchronised the sites of older Roman, Turkish and Austrian thermal spring, thought to possess healing pow- with that which was available at the Quality at Trattoria restaurant. baths, often renowned for their healing properties. ers, was only discovered in 1935. Nowadays, there While I am usually very fond of After the liberation of Serbia from Ottoman rule are four cold mineral water springs (13 to 14 de- house wines, I took a slightly differ- in the beginning of the 19th Century, banjas were grees Celsius) and the thermal spring (25 degrees Campania ent path at Trattoria Campania. I largely rebuilt or repurposed to become fashion- Celsius). decided to start with an aperitif, as the restaurant has a whole section able summer resorts for respectable guests. The park is also well known for its stunning col- The restaurant is named after Campania – a region in southwestern Italy, whose capital is Naples. Photo: Courtesy of Trattoria Campania dedicated to its selection. I had one Besides their main purpose - to cure patients of lection of marble sculptures built in 1966. Accord- of my favorites, a cocktail called different ailments - they are also cultural and rec- ing to the spa's official website, this outdoor collec- Negroni Sbagliato (Martini Rosso, A new Italian walls and wooden chairs. The origi- and true to their origins. As expected, For desert, the Baba – a traditional reational resorts. With beautiful landscapes, deli- tion is on a par with the world famous ones in the Campari, Prosecco). It was made by nal wooden ceilings and arches have pizza and pasta dominated the menu, cake from the Napoli region soaked in cious food and, above all, a rich variety of health Netherlands and Texas. the book and gave me enough time stayed just as a reminder of the build- but there was also a wide range of meat rum syrup and served in a jar, on top to consider what would pair best restaurant now ing's character. dishes, ranging from traditional stews of cherries and mascarpone cheese with my Margherita pizza. The restaurant is named after Cam- to steaks and chops. Our visit fell dur- cream – was also excellent and au- I have been asked what to drink occupies the old, with pizza on several occasions. pania – a region in southwestern Italy of ing the International Week of Italian thentic – soft and hearty and, of course, Even though this depends on the which the capital is Naples. The region's cuisine, and the set menu special to sweeter than sweet. type of pizza and toppings, my mysterious "Knez" cuisine is renowned for its pizza, buf- mark the period sounded like a perfect We did take one small adventure Next to its spas, Vrdnik is famous for its fresh and healthy air, earning it Photo: Banja Vrdnik Termal answer is usually beer. However, the falo Mozzarella cheese and digestif li- option: Mozzarella in carrozza with an- outside the recommended menu to try the nickname 'air-spa'. wine list was compelling enough for site. Nowadays, queur Limoncello. People from Naples chovies and capers, homemade pasta the salmon baked with vegetables in me to try something new. Apart from the famous park and thermal wa- Of course, if you prefer spending winter days Keeping in mind the acidity of to- are often given the nickname mangia- with caprese, a traditional meat and the pizza oven. This was the only dish ters, there are other things to see and do while in relaxing in a warm and cosy spa, Banja Vrdnik has mato, sweetness of Mozzarella and it is inviting maccheroni (macaroni eaters) – an as- pumpkin dish local to Atrani called that did not quite attain perfection. Bukovicka Banja, including visiting the National other things to offer, especially at the Hotel Termal. the freshness of basil leaves, a white sociation dating from the early 19th cen- sarchiapone and sweet and doughy The finely seasoned piece of fish was Museum in Arandjelovac, with its palaeontology, It has a total of six pools, filled with warm thermal wine was the logical choice. Bubbles and simple, tury when the first macaroni machines Baba. We decided to go on the journey slightly overdone and dry, while the would have done equally well, but archaeology, ethnology, history, art history and water at 32.8 degrees Celsius. There is also a tepidar- I spotted a real beauty on the wine and evidently were introduced and pasta sold at through Campania's famous classics. vegetables – large chunks of courgette, numismatics collections. ium (a warm room attached to Roman baths), sauna, list – Edi Keber's Collio Bianco – and I street stands around the city. But Nea- All the items on the set menu, offered at red onion, broccoli and eggplant were If it is not too cold, be sure to visit the historic a gym and massage rooms. For more information on rejoiced in every drop of it. politans were devout pasta eaters long 1490 dinars (12-13 euros), are available a also served very al dente. While gener- village of Orasac, where the First Serbian Uprising accommodation prices, check www.vrdnik.travel. A typical producer from Friuli committed to before and their pasta is among the best la carte too. ally enjoyable, the aubergine was ined- against Ottoman rule took place. – an Italian region on the border and the most varied in all of Italy. The Mozzarella in carrozza, served ible and almost raw. with Slovenia, famous for its 'Super both comfort and However, if you are not into walking and prefer VRNJACKA BANJA Whites' – Keber's wines are of Naples is the birthplace of pizza. on a bed of rocket leaves, was a great We had great time in Trattoria Cam- indoor relaxation, then you could head to the Ho- remarkable minerality, intense body Its pizzaioli (pizza makers) have been way to start the Campania journey. The pania. It serves simple, high quality tel Izvor spa and wellness centre, where you can This is probably the most famous spa in Ser- and ageing potential. Collio Bianco quality. perfecting their fine craft for centu- breaded crust was golden and crunchy, food made with authentic regional in- enjoy fitness facilities, massages, saunas, as well as bia. Located 200km south from the capital, it lies blends three local grape varieties, ries. The original dough used for pizza with perfectly melted Mozzarella wait- gredients. We loved everything – the swim in any of the ten indoor, mineral-water pools. on the slopes of Mt Goc and has cold and warm which each lend a unique feel to this Napoletana is very lean – nothing but ing inside. The acidity, flavor and quan- concept, atmosphere and food, and wine: The heavyweight structure For more information on services and accommo- mineral springs used for medical treatments. The of Tocai Friulano, the aromatic Duda&Vlada flour, water, salt, and yeast. The unique tity of the dressing was just enough we will certainly be back for more as dation, visit www.a-hotel-izvor.com. warmest spring, Topla Voda, is the exact same freshness of Malvasia Istriana, and texture is obtained using finely ground, to offset the gentle taste of the cheese the a la carte menu has unexplored For overall information about Bukobicka Banja temperature as the human body. Like Bukovicka the acidity of Ribolla Gialla, which is he old classical house on Kn- high-protein flour (often of the Italian without obscuring it. The homemade eye-catching options – the restaurant accommodation options, prices and things to do, Banja, Vrnjacka Banja also has a great park that is fermented and matured in cement eza Sime Markovica street, "OO" type). With few ingredients, the pasta was also very typical of south- serves breakfasts and snacks, along visit www.bukovickabanja.rs. perfect for walks. vats. located next to prominent key to great Neapolitan pizza crust is a ern Italy and cooked al dente, served with other authentic produce from the The markup here is average for Vrnjacka Banja's medical tradition is impres- Belgrade restaurants and you can TBelgrade landmark Konak long fermentation period, which lends in the most simple, yet most delicious Campania region, which could perhaps BANJA VRDNIK sively long. It dates back to Roman times. The Ro- easily find good value-for-money Kneginje Ljubice, once hosted one of elasticity to the dough, followed by a caprese sauce with tomato, Mozzarella, be enjoyed with a long "spritz" drink. mans built a medical treatment and rehabilitation bottles. The service is friendly and the best Italian restaurants in town. It quick stint in a hot wooden oven. basil and olive oil. This spa is located in the province of Vojvodina, centre on the very site of the hot mineral spring wines are served at the appropriate was called "Knez", and while it served In Trattoria Campania, the entrance Another example of fine home cook- TRATTORIA CAMPANIA temperatures. on the southern slopes of Fruska Gora, 76 kilome- called Vrnjci. Archaeological finds from this era in- some of the best wine in Belgrade, and is marked by its Associazione Pizzaiu- ing came in the form of the sarchi- Address: Kneza Sime Markovica 10 All in all, some local craft beers tres northwest from Belgrade (a one-hour drive). clude a swimming pool, a spring of mineral water and a better variety of wines from marvelous food, it was also renowned oli Napoletani certificate – indicating its apone. The sweet and tender casserole Phone: +381 11 311 55 31 Vrdnik is famous for its fresh and healthy air, earn- and coins thrown into the spring as an expression more Italian regions would make an for being expensive and – some would commitment to Neapolitan standards contained pumpkin, veal, tomato and Price Guide: 1500-1900 dinars [12-16 ing it the nickname 'air-spa'. Its official website of cult beliefs. already good selection even better. say – elitist. The elaborate, dark classi- – and upon entry the first item you can cheese, with the simple ingredients euros] per person for three courses dubs Banja Vrdnik "the unique air-spa in this part The spa was then rebuilt by the Czech Baron But, let's be frank: Having a decent cal interior often bore witness to the see is a beautifully decorated wooden blended into a great winter-warmer. without drinks pizzeria in town is uncommon, even of Europe, with widely known warm thermal wa- Herder in 1835, after Prince Milos Obrenovic de- comings and goings of Belgrade's po- oven. We ordered a traditional Neapoli- for some parts of Italy. Having a ter and the largest number of sunny hours in Vo- cided he wanted something resembling the famous decent pizzeria with very nice wines litical, business and celebrity elites. It tan pizza – "Margherita" topped with to- jvodina." Karlsbad [Karlovy Vary] resort in Bohemia. It has al- and a selection of proper Italian acquired a shady reputation even be- matoes, mozzarella cheese, a drizzle of ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ During your stay here, take the opportunity to visit ways been popular in the region as well as hosting aperitifs is no less than a privilege. fore a high-profile underworld assas- olive oil and a few basil leaves. ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” some of the area's most beautiful landmarks, such as many visitors from abroad. sination took place there back in the The pizza was merely supposed to RESTAURANT KOVAČ the Vrdnik Tower in the nearby city of Novi Sad. The Nowadays this resort is full of hotels perfect Basic Info Rating year 2000. While the incident did not help pass the time as we studied the modern ethno restaurant tower is believed to have been built by the Romans in for indoor relaxation: spas, massages, saunas, immediately spell the end of Knez, It menu and prepared to order properly. 287 to serve as an observation post for the defence of pools as well as a popular hydro-massage bath- dealt a fatal blow to its reputation and Little did we know that we would be Overall GOOD Sirmium, one of four capitals of the Roman Empire. tub. For more information on facilities and prices, fortunes. ordering another one in no time. With You can also visit Fruska Gora national park visit www.wellness-spa.rs/centri/banje-srbije/ Wine selection GOOD A new restaurant rose from the ashes such a small selection of ingredients, with its marvellous nature. If this is your Febru- vrnjacka-banja. Wine service GOOD last year, and while it is another Italian, the humble Margarita is all about deli- ary pick, be sure to visit some of Fruska Gora's 39 If Vrnjacka Banja is your pick this winter, try to Wine pricing €15 - €100 Trattoria Campania is based on a much cate balance. Our opener was excellent waterfalls. Locals say the Lazin Vir is a must-see, as visit some of the most important cultural monu- simpler concept, and is generally more and authentic – one of the best we ever it is one of the area's biggest waterfalls (5.2 metres) ments surrounding it, such as the UNESCO-protect- open and inviting to the public. The in- have had outside Campania. and it can only be seen during the wintertime as it ed medieval buildings, including monasteries with Wine and GOOD terior has been completely redecorat- The menu was surprisingly long for Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com dries up in summer. valuable frescos (Sopocani) and military forts. food pairing ed, minimalistic and clean, with white a trattoria, but the dishes were simple 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Last Chance to See CLUBBING Anastas Jovanovic The exhibition dedicated to Anastas Jovanovic, the famed photographer and pioneer

AND LIVE MUSIC of design and applied arts in Arts in brief Serbia, is closing soon. If you haven't visited the carefully FRIDAY JANUARY 26 • Jim Walsh, Soul Society, FRIDAY FEBRUARY 02 curated exhibition of works Drinciceva 1, 10pm by this seminal Serbian artist • Fish in Oil, Akademija 28, • Crveni Karton, Zappa Barka, • Coucou Abel, Soul Society, at the Princess Ljubica's Nemanjina 28, 9pm Usce bb, 10pm Drinciceva 1, 10pm Residence gallery, organised • Belgrade Funk Combo, Soul • Krilat i Beo, Klub Petak, Lomina • Sitzpinker, Kvaka 22, by the Belgrade City Museum, Society, Drinciceva 1, 10pm 14, 9pm Ruzveltova 39, 10pm hurry up. It closes on Sunday, , Elektropionir, , Grad Cultural , Fest Club, Gradski • Rain Dogs • Mile Voli Disko • Fuzzbox January 28. Entrance is free. Cetinjska 15, 9pm Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, park Zemun bb, 11pm • Bestbeat Belgrade's Beatles 11pm • Bombe Devedesetih and Ludi Tribut, Fest Club, Gradski Park • Disco Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Srbi, Imago CUK, Decanska 14, Topcider Cultural Zemun bb, 10pm 8pm 10pm Heritage Walks • RuPaul’s Drag Race AS3 • Atma Live, Imago CUK, • Bojan Vukmirović b2b Luka Continue Premiere Party, Grad Cultural Decanska 14, 11pm Concrete & Sugar Lobby, DOT, Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm • Harderground Vol.10, DRUM Francuska 6, 11pm The sixth walk through • Dr.Rubinstein & Tijana T, Club, Zmaj Jovina 4, 11pm • Drumming | Codex, Hermetik Topcider, the popular, woodsy Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • DJ Malina, Gvozdjara 1870, Hosted by: Kastiljas MC, KPTM, residential neighbourhood of Stefana 115, 11pm Karadjordjeva 43, 9pm Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm Belgrade, will take place on • DJ Marko Gangbanger, Strafta, • Danijel Cehranov & Milan • Mystic Stylez Family and Saturday, January 27. This Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm Savic Saxophonedzie, Tranzit Friends, Bulevar Despota walk will be dedicated to • Trance Wave Battlefield, Share, Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 10pm Stefana 115, 11pm exploring three architectural Cumiceva 3, 10pm • Afro Live Act, Kaldrma Bar, • Lovefest Fire, Hangar, and historical landmarks of • DJ Slipi, Gvozdjara 1870, Skadarska 40, 8pm Knezopoljska 9, 10pm KOLARAC this hilly part of town – the Karadjordjeva 43, 9pm • Manjane, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, • Midnight Orient w/ As Smooth Museum of African Art, • For Old Times' Sake: Friday 7pm As All Night Long, Grad Cultural PROGRAMME King Peter I's House and Night Fever, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, the Heritage House – Petar Krsmanovica 8, 10pm 6, 11pm 10pm Lubarda Heritage. The walk • Tito Garmendia, Ciglana, • 80s New Wave, Dzezva Bar, • Norma Project Live, Share, costs three euros and will Slanacki put 26, 10pm Cara Urosa 19, 9pm Cumiceva 3, 11pm start at 11am and lasts more • Bikini, Kaldrma Bar, Skadarska • Trole & Vlada Russ With • Hygee, Meduza, Gospodar 40, 8pm Marko Milosavljevic, Club Jevremova 6, 8pm than two hours, so wear some FRIDAY, JANUARY 26 Production: Belgrade comfortable shoes! • Igor Jadranin, Zaokret, Cetinjska 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm • Ancient Psychedelics, Zappa Philharmonic Orchestra 15, 7pm • Electric Funx, Bitef Art Cafe, Barka, Usce bb 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Bach on Antique • Neutron / Timmy / Cwtch, DOT, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Belgrade Philharmonic SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 3 Francuska 6, 11pm • PARTY at Four | Joma Maja, SATURDAY FEBRUARY 03 Orchestra Instruments at • Ziska, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 4am Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Music Gallery, 6pm Kolarac 9pm • Filip Xavi All Night Long, • Bas i Stega & Svemirci, Programme: G. Mahler/ Concert of Baroque Music at • Feloneezy / Regis / Phillie P, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Symphony No. 9 Candlelight The Belgrade-based Studio Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Production: Belgrade Soloist: for Early Music is organising • Girls, boys and toys, Bitef Art • Bow Down, Secer Club, • Soul Kitchen, Soul Society, Philharmonic Orchestra André Laurent O’Neil, baroque a unique experience for fans Cafe, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Svetogorska 17, 11pm Drinciceva 1, 10pm cello (USA) of Bach, baroque and early If you're looking for hard-to-find, indie books, the library and publishing studio Baraba will also be at the fair. Photo: Courtesy of Fijuk Prodavnica • Trap Friday // Cjofo MC & • Cojke & Malina, Ludost Bar, • Sizip + Dram at Zappa Barka, SATURDAY, JANUARY 27 Programme: music in general. The New Tommy Gang live, KPTM, Zorza Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm J S Bach: Suites for Cello Soloist, Trinity Baroque ensemble Klemesoa 22, 11pm • Gift Depeche Mode Tribute, Concert Hall, 11am No. 1, 3 and 5, BMW 1007-1011 from the US will be playing • Sonja Sajzor Birthday Bash, SUNDAY JANUARY 28 Fest Club, Gradski Park Zemun Small School of Bonton Production: Studio for Early Bach on antique instruments Secer Club, Svetogorska 17, 11pm bb, 10pm How to listen to music/The Music such as the harpsichord, • Gipsy Jazz, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Artefakt Live presented Beatles Ticket fees: 800 dinars Belgrade's Cutting baroque violin and traverse SATURDAY JANUARY 27 8pm by TRIII, Drugstore, Bulevar The Best Beat flute. The concert on Sunday, • Moonwalks, Grad Cultural Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Production: Music Centre SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 4 January 28 will be held at the • Vizelj, Entropija, Elektropionir, Centre, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Azax / Hi Profile / Z-Cat, Hala Ticket fees: 200 dinars Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Almost Famous, Ljubimac, sportova, Pariske Komune 20, Concert Hall, 11am Edge Indie Art Fair • Amaro Del, Ciglana, Slanacki put Cetinjska 15, 7pm 10pm and starts at 8pm. Tickets SUNDAY, JANUARY 28 Kolarac Podium of Chamber cost four or seven euros each, 26, 10pm • After Party with Mancha, • After Party with Klaus & John Music depending on seating. KPTM, Zorza Klemansoa 22, 5pm Belk, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa Concert Hall, 11am Tango ensemble Libercuatro ska street 14. This will be the first one ers, handmade jewellery, clothes, rare are anything but banal, masterfully • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, 22, 5am Kolarac Podium of Chamber Tango through time If you're into al- of 2018, and will be centred on perfor- books and vinyl records, be sure to pass achieving a balance between the Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Girl Gang Gang, KPTM, Zorza Music Production: Music Centre Epic Fantasy Festival mances by two underground rap sen- by. quotidian and spiritual, between be- Klemansoa 22, 11pm Cello Students of Faculty of Music Admission free at Dom Omladine ternative comics, sations, Bombe Devedesetih and Ludi nevolent fun and the serious. They MONDAY JANUARY 29 • Cojke & Malina, Ludost Bar, Class of Dragan Djordjevic graphic novels, Srbi. CULT FIGURES are funny, sometimes hilarious, and Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Production: Music Centre THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8 An absolute must for all fans Bombe Devedesetih (Bombs of the they are razor-blade sharp, smart and • Sensual Cruising, Zappa Barka, Admission free of epic fantasy, live action prints, posters, 90s) is a collective of young artists led While every participant is worth provoking. Thanks to these qualities, Usce bb, 9:30pm SUNDAY FEBRUARY 04 Concert Hall, 8pm role play, table-top games by popular stripper-turned-rapper exploring there are, however, a few Denic has already garnered quite a • French>

RuPaul's Drag Race, which aired for The founders the first time on US television in 2009, featured nine drag queens competing of Belgrade for the title of America's Next Drag Superstar. The format of the show has viewing parties evolved to include up to 14 contestants, the largest number of competitors to for RuPaul's Drag ever participate. The show successfully ran for eight more seasons and inspired Race open up two different television spin-offs RuPaul's Drag U and RuPaul's Drag about drag, how Race: All Stars. "RuPaul is an artist and an they started, and entrepreneur, a pioneer in so many fields. He is a recording artist and was the impact on a talk show host. Nowadays, he runs a very influential reality programme," the local LGBTQ says Becir. This year, those attending the community. RuPaul viewing parties will follow RuPaul's Drag Race: All Stars 3 at Alexis TRAUSSI KC Grad. This season features ten contestants from seasons 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, rag is art, drag is and 9. Not only do they screen the entertainment, drag is show, but it is accompanied by drag Construction of the Zemun theatre was completed in 1969 and was built in the socialist, modernist style that was fashionable at the time. Photo: Courtesy of Madlenianum transformation, drag is a performances featuring local queens "Dgame, drag is freedom. … and DJs playing music. These parties You can use costumes and make-up to take place every Friday with monthly create a whole other persona of a gender all-nighters starting at 8pm. Admission different than yours, and then you push is free. it over the top, play with it, laugh about Drag started making its way it and at it," says Lazara Marinkovic, 32, a into mainstream popular culture Belgrade-based journalist, documentary in America during the 1980s. The photographer, and media/event 1990 documentary Paris is Burning Belgrade is relatively new to the drag scene and the viewing parties are helping foster awareness Photo: Aleksa Vitorovic@izgaram about the drag and LGBTQ community. producer, among other jobs. chronicled 'ball culture' (places where In 2017, Marinkovic and her two drag shows are performed) in the New Belgrade is relatively new to the country that tries to keep them in the Becir says that although people from the friends, Alek Boskovic and Vojkan York African-American, Latino, gay, drag scene and the viewing parties are closet. LGBTQ community are not understood Becir, both of whom are activists and and transgender communities. Despite helping to foster awareness about the "I strongly believe that RuPaul's or respected in parts of Serbia, straight DJs, started viewing parties for RuPaul's stirring some controversy, (Paris is drag and LGBTQ community here. Drag Race viewing parties at KC Grad people can appreciate the time and effort Drag Race at the KC Grad cultural Burning brought LGBTQ culture to the "Last year when we started doing managed to connect and empower that goes into the performances. centre (Kulturni Centar Grad) on Brace forefront and paved the way for shows viewing parties we realised that there many queer people, to show them that "They see people performing at Krsmanovic street. like RuPaul's Drag Race to be accepted were a lot more queens that we initially they are not alone, that there are others our parties as people being good "I was in Brooklyn two years ago… by mainstream media. thought there were, but also a lot of who are 'different' just like them, and at something. Make up, dancing, during the All Stars 2 season and I went "But most importantly, drag is not just 'baby queens' ready to debut on stage," most importantly that we're here for impersonating a woman or being to the viewing party hosted by a season about banal entertainment and wearing says Boskovic. each other," says Marinkovic. funny. It is respect, and hard-earned. It 7 queen Thorgy Thor…The energy there clothes of the opposite gender. Drag The viewing parties also create These viewing parties are not just all has to start with respect." was insane and so pure and I just turned requires enormous creativity and work a space for members of the LGBTQ parties, they are a community open to around to my friend and said, 'This and it enables you to be whatever you community to feel connected to their everyone who respects and wants to To find out more, visit: facebook. needs to happen in Belgrade - Belgrade want to be," says Marinkovic. Boskovic peers in a very special way. They can show support to LGBTQ people in the com/groups/RPDRserbia or www. deserves this,'" Boskovic exclaims. and Becir agree that it is an art. express themselves and be visible in a region. gradbeograd.eu and search 'rupaul'.

Scorpions Reschedule Algiers Coming to Belgrade Concert for June Belgrade in February Madlenianum started working in the old theatre building and after several years, and significant investment, the building was refurbished and reopened in April 2005. Photo: Courtesy of Madlenianum ermany's most popular and successful hard-rock band, the eceiving widespread positive reviews from music Scorpions, were supposed to play their long-awaited, first- critics and fans alike for the last several years, ever Serbian gig on December 7 at the Belgrade Arena. American post-punk outfit Algiers will be play- However, singer Klaus Meine had a severe cold, which Ring at Dom Omladine on Thursday, February G 1. Algiers come from Georgia, USA and create an incred- forced the band to cancel several concerts, the Belgrade show in- Madlenianum Opera cluded. ibly original and emotional style of rock music that But fret not, the band has already announced a new date. The bridges post-punk energy with Southern gospel and Scorpions will be in Belgrade on Sunday, June 10 to finally play for gothic sounds. Serbian fans for the first time. According to the show's organisers, all With two albums released on the famed Matador and Theatre tickets purchased for the December show will be valid for the June Records label, their most recent album The Underside of concert, so there's no need to return them if you plan on attending. If Power is critically acclaimed and has taken the band to the a Nazi puppet state. These times, however, were then on as solely a public library. By the mid-90s, The interior of the great hall was the work of ar- you still haven't purchased tickets for the June concert, they are available forefront of the modern American indie rock scene. Tickets Built to ease tensions gladly forgotten by all. even the library closed and the building was chitect Zoran Stojnic Serbanovic, while the foyer, at all Eventim box offices, priced between €40 and €45 depending on seating. for the show cost €13 at the door. over Zemun's Branko Pesic, a famous Zemuner, was consid- turned into a clothing bazaar. elegant Piano Nobile, and the halls were com- ered by many to have been one of the best may- But the theatre was destined for better days, pleted by architect Branko Urosevic. Developed unification with ors of Belgrade there had ever been. He served in which came in January 1997 when the famous in natural materials, and with lots of light, they office from 1964 to 1974 and sought to soothe the Serb art benefactor Madlena Zepter, wife of entre- create pleasant ambient, preparing visitors well Belgrade, this theatre old grievances between the city and its relatively preneur Philip Zepter, decided to use it to house for the artistic events on the stage. new suburb. the city's first private opera and theatre house: Madlenianum has so far presented some 50 has seen its fair share The construction of the second site of Bel- Madlenianum Opera and Theatre. productions, seen by more than 400,000 visitors. grade's National Theatre in the old Zemun city Madlenianum started working in the old The first performed opera wasThe Secret Mar- of on and off-stage centre, on Glavna Street (Main Street), was just building and after several years, and significant riage by Domenico Cimarosa. one of his initiatives aimed at bridging the divide. investment, the building was refurbished and re- Productions of: The Rape of Lucretia, Il Signor drama. Construction of the Zemun theatre was com- opened in April 2005. Bruschino, Two Widows, Cosi fan Tutte, The pleted in 1969 and it opened on October 22 that A new, modern exterior design was provided Tales of Hoffman, The Diary of Anne Frank, Rita, Milan RADONJIC year, marking the anniversary of the liberation by Professor Ivan Antic of the Belgrade Faculty of Sour Angelica, La Traviata, and Madame Butter- Lovefest Brings of Zemun during World War II. Designed by the Architecture, that carefully blended the new look fly, followed. Other genres, primarily ballet, in Dutch Producers Loco Dice to Belgrade he long history of Zemun as an architect Bogdan Cosic, it was built in the socialist, of the facade with the appearance of the old city performances such as Orpheus in the Underworld, US Singer/Songwriter Artefakt to Visit Drugstore Detroit Psych Rockers at KC Grad Berlin's Dr Rubinstein independent town ended when it modernist style that was fashionable at the time. core. A small square was built in front of the build- Nijinsky-Golden Bird, Wolfgang Amade, attracted Peter Broderick at Sprat Popular summer musical festival Teams with Local Tijana T became part of Belgrade in 1934, Since opening, it has staged numerous shows ing, connecting the interior to the exterior, while the attention of both domestic and international Nick Lapien and Robin Koek, Dutch Lovefest, which takes place in Vrn- The Moonwalks are an up-and-coming leaving many of its residents feeling a that premiered at the main theatre in central also creating another public space. audiences. Known for being an endlessly active techno producers who work together jacka Banja, in the Raska district in psychedelic rock band from Detroit Fans of techno will be treated to a night songwriter who is always trying out under the name of Artefakt, will be central Serbia, have been known to that is looking to make a mark this year. of high-quality music on Friday, Janu- bit nostalgic for the old times when it Belgrade's Trg Republike (Republic Square) and The most dramatic transformation, however, Two great musicals, Les Miserables and new sounds and methods, Peter Brod- spinning at Belgrade's techno mecca put together great parties in Belgrade In Light (The Scales in the Frame) is the ary 26 at Drugstore, with two female Twas not just a suburb of a larger city, but a town in also hosted several international theatre events, was to be seen inside the building, where the Rebecca, delivered a touch of Broadway to erick will be playing an intimate set at Drugstore on Saturday, February 3. Fun and around the country to promote trio's new album that was just released DJs at the helm. Belgrade favourite its own right on the border of the Austro-Hungar- including the famous annual International Festi- entrance was remodelled to include a great hall, Belgrade and Zemun. 'Les Mis' is the current one of Cetinjska Street's newer venues, fact, Artefakt played Drugstore back the event. They are kicking off 2018 by in late January and is poised to make Tijana T will play host to Dr Rubinstein ian Empire. val of Monodrama that it first hosted in 1971. leading to a modern auditorium boasting ad- box-office record holder, attracting 20,000 visi- Sprat. Tickets to see the Portland-born in 2014, at the club's original Belgrade bringing popular Tunisian DJ and pro- them a household name on the psych from Berlin. The two DJs are good It once again became a town of its own after However, during the 80s, artistic activity dimin- ditional space for an orchestra and a new ring of tors to 43 performances, continuing its artistic artist, who currently lives in Ireland, venue that was located below the Kale- ducer Loco Dice to Hanger. The party rock scene. They are playing KC Grad friends and have incredible chemistry German forces invaded during World War II and ished. The theatre in Zemun suffered and stopped gallery boxes, taking the venue's seating capacity life at the Madlenianum Opera and Theatre to cost ten euros at the door. The concert megdan fortress. Tickets for the party will take place on Friday, February 2 on Sunday, January 28 and tickets cost when playing sets back to back. Tickets assigned it to the Independent State of Croatia, putting on performances in 1985, operating from to 500. this day. will take place on Monday, February 5. cost five euros at the door. and tickets cost €14 at the door. eight euros at the door. for the party cost five euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 26 - Thursday, February 8, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

FRIDAY FEBRUARY 02 • Book promotion “Book About SATURDAY FEBRUARY 03 WEDNESDAY JANUARY 31 Opera, Ballet Homeland“, Nikola Bertolino, and Classical • Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, CZKD, Bircaninova 21, 7pm • Exhibition: “January Exhibitions • The Patriots (Popovic), National Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Tijana • The Psychopathology of Modern Opening”, Cultural Center of Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, FRIDAY JANUARY 26 Milosevic (violin), Nemanja Man Cycle, Belgrade City Library, Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 6, 3pm 7:30pm Stankovic (cello), Ilija M. Kolarac Kneza Mihaila 56, 7pm • The Blacksmiths (Nikolic), • Belgrade Philharmonic Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Debate: Oxidative Stress MONDAY FEBRUARY 05 National Theatre in Belgrade, Orchestra, Gabriel Feltz • Boris Kovač New Ritual Quartet, and Obesity, Ilija M. Kolarac Francuska 3, 8:30pm (conductor), G. Mahler: SKC, Kralja Milana 48, 8:30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Nobel Peace Prize between Symphony No.9, Ilija M. Kolarac idealism and political cynicism, THURSDAY FEBRUARY 01 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm SATURDAY FEBRUARY 03 SATURDAY JANUARY 27 Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Ballet: The Nutcracker Studentski trg 5, 6pm • The Power of Darkness (Tolstoy), (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in • Concert of Baroque Music at • Exhibition: “Eclipse”, Svjetlana National Theatre in Belgrade, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Candlelight, André Laurent O’Neil, Salic Mitrovic, Ilija M. Kolarac TUESDAY FEBRUARY 06 Francuska 3, 8:30pm • Opera: Orpheus (Monteverdi), baroque cello (USA), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 5pm Madlenianum Opera and Theatre, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm FRIDAY FEBRUARY 02 • 100 Years of Yugoslavia cycle, Glavna 32, 7:30pm • Opera: La Forza Del Destino, SUNDAY JANUARY 28 Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, National Theatre in Belgrade, • Antigone (Sophocles), National 7pm SATURDAY JANUARY 27 Francuska 3, 7pm • Poetry Night, Petak Club, Lomina Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 14, 8pm 8pm THURSDAY FEBRUARY 08 • Toska (Puccini), MetOpera SUNDAY FEBRUARY 04 • The Glass Menagerie (Williams), 2017/18 Live Broadcast, Cineplexx MONDAY JANUARY 29 National Theatre in Belgrade, • Meteorologists talk about Usce Shopping centar, Bulevar • Kolarac Podium of Chamber Francuska 3, 8:30pm weather and climate, prof. dr Mihajla Pupina 4, 6.45pm Music, Libercuatro Tango • Delicatessen Monday, Grad • A Month in the Country Ilija M. • How to listen to music/ Ensemble, Ilija M. Kolarac Cultural Centre, Brace Krsmanovica Vladimir Djurdjevic, (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama The Beatles, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am 4, 7pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am • Nemanja Radulovic & Double • Nobel Peace Prize between 5, 6pm Sens, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, idealism and political cynicism, • Exhibition: „French-Touching SATURDAY FEBRUARY 03 SUNDAY JANUARY 28 Studentski trg 5, 8pm Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Serbia“, Dzezva Bar, Cara Urosa 19, • Ballet: The Lady with the Studentski trg 5, 6pm 8pm • A Month in the Country • Kolarac Podium of Chamber Camellias, Bolshoi Theatre • Exhibition: “Silence”, Ivana Tesic, (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama Music, Cello Students of Live Broadcast, Cineplexx Usce Belgrade Design District, Cumicevo Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Faculty of Music, Ilija M. Kolarac Shopping centar, Bulevar Mihajla sokace, 1 floor, 7pm Theatre Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am Pupina 4, 3:45pm • Exhibition: “With a Flight”, Igor SUNDAY FEBRUARY 04 • Music of J.S.Bach on Period Simonovic, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm FRIDAY JANUARY 26 Instruments, Ilija M. Kolarac MONDAY FEBRUARY 05 • The Minister’s Wife (Nusic), Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm TUESDAY JANUARY 30 • Kingdom of Heaven – Epica National Theatre in Belgrade, • Requiem (Haydn), Madlenianum • Nemanja Radulovic & Double Balkanica (Lorenci), National Francuska 3, 7:30pm Opera and Theatre, Glavna 32, Sens, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Exhibition: ”Where Is My Place?”, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • The Orchestra (Anoulih), National 7:30pm Studentski trg 5, 8pm Irena Kelecevic, Museum of 7pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Nikola Zdravkovic (piano), Italian Contemporary Art, Usce 10, 11am • Betrayal (Pinter), Yugoslav Drama 8:30pm MONDAY JANUARY 29 Cultural Center, Kneza Milosa 56, 9pm • Exhibition: “Almost Resistance”, Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Right You Are, If You Think So • Opera: L’elisir D’Amore Art Gallery U10, Kosovske devojke (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama • Filip Tomic (cello), Jovana (Donizetti), National Theatre in 3, 3pm SATURDAY JANUARY 27 Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Radovanovic (piano), Serbian Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm • Language Café Belgrade, Grad Academy of Sciences and Arts, Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica • A Suspicious Person (Nusic), TUESDAY FEBRUARY 06 Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm TUESDAY FEBRUARY 06 4, 8pm National Theatre in Belgrade, • Milos Spasic Pianist Recital, Francuska 3, 8:30pm • Dust (Spiro), National Theatre in Music School Stankovic, Kneza • Ballet: Women in D Minor / Long WEDNESDAY JANUARY 31 Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8:30pm Milosa 1а, 7pm Christmas Dinner, National • Don Juan (Moliere), Yugoslav SUNDAY JANUARY 28 • Kristina Ivankovic (cello), Ruzica Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Comic Books for Everybody, Dom Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Gojkovic (piano), Artget Gallery, 7:30pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm 8pm • The Miracle in Sargan (Simovic), Trg Republike 5, 8pm • Exhibition: “Near the Water”, National Theatre in Belgrade, • Ballet: Eugene Onegin WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 07 Ljiljana Randjic, Gallery ULUS, WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 07 Francuska 3, 7:30pm (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in Kalemengdan, 3pm , National Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm • Opera: Eugene Onegin • My Prizes (Bernhard) • The Sexual Neuroses of Our (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in THURSDAY FEBRUARY 01 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Parents (Barfuss), National TUESDAY JANUARY 30 Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7pm 8:30pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Climate and climate change, prof. 8:30pm • Jelena Jovanovic Petrovic dr Ivana Tosic, Ilija M. Kolarac MONDAY JANUARY 29 • Under the Millstone (Nenadic), (piano), Olga Petrovic (piano), Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Italian Cultural Center, Kneza Exhibitions • Exhibition: “In Search of • Hasan Aga’s Wife (Simovic), Milana 50, 8pm Milosa 56, 7pm and Events Identity“, Gallery Graficki Kolektiv, National Theatre in Belgrade, • Opera: Don Giovanni (Mozart), Obilicev venac 27, 3pm Francuska 3, 8:30pm THURSDAY FEBRUARY 08 Madlenianum Opera and Theatre, FRIDAY JANUARY 26 • Poetry Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Glavna 32, 7:30pm 6pm TUESDAY JANUARY 30 • Kingdom of Heaven – Epica • Exhibition: Milica Lojovc, Nevena Balkanica (Lorenci), National THURSDAY FEBRUARY 01 Kosovic, Gallery ’73, Pozeska 83a, FRIDAY FEBRUARY 02 • Ivanov (Chekov), National Theatre Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7pm 10am in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • A Play About Mirjana and Those • Ballet: The Nutcracker • Exhibition: “Near water“, • Exhibition: “La Vida Loca”, Dom • Little Marital Crimes (Schmitt), Around Her (Martinic), Yugoslav (Tchaikovsky), National Theatre in Ljiljana Randjic, ULUS Gallery, Omladine Gallery, Makedonska 22, National Theatre in Belgrade, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7:30pm Kalemegdan, 10am 3pm Francuska 3, 8:30pm 8pm

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