Danubian Lightness of Being

magazine 2014

NATURE, CULTURE AND RIVERSIDE REVERIE

DANUBIAN LIGHTNESS OF BEING DANUBE CYCLING: Reaching for the stars // DANUBE GARDENS: Baroque pleasures // DANUBE CULTURE: Wave games // DANUBE HIKING: The lightness of being // DANUBE CELEBRITIES: Gerhard Haderer // POINTS OF DEPARTURE: Tips and events Austrias’ one and only museum for caricature, satirical drawings, cartoon and comic!

www.karikaturmuseum.at

HIGHLIGHT- EXHIBITIONS 2014

NICOLAS MAHLER 29/11/2013 – 23/3/2014

LESEN MACHT SPASS! 29/11/2013 – 23/3/2014

ZEICHNEN FÜR DEN FRIEDEN ab 26/1/2014

ALLES KLAR HERR KOMMISSAR? 6/4 – 16/11/2014

FÜR IMMER DEIX! Dauerpräsentation

As Lower Austria's international exhibition house, the Kunsthalle Krems navigates with its program the field of tension that extends between 19th-century art and classical Modernism, and all the way up to contemporary art, with the main focus on 20th and 21st century art. Austrian and international contemporary art is intensively treated in solo and thematic exhibitions. Central to the exhibition philosophy is a networked synopsis of old and new, opening up exciting perspectives and new paths of access. AUSSTELLUNGSHIGHLIGHTS 2014

16/03 — 29/06/2014

ZEICHNUNGEN AUS FÜNF JAHRHUNDERTEN DIE SAMMLUNG KLÜSER 13/07 — 09/11/2014

MAN RAY — PIERRE KLOSSOWSKI

KUNSTHALLE KREMS FRANZ-ZELLER-PLATZ 3, 3500 KREMS AN DER DONAU T +43 2732 908010, [email protected], WWW.KUNSTHALLE.AT © WGD Tourismus GmbH/Weissenbrunner, LWmedia-Archiv/Shutterstock, St. Florian’s Abbey/Hans Fronius “The Raising of Lazarus”, WGD Tourismus GmbH/Weissenbrunner CONTENTS // Enjoyable experience with a back story Cover photo: Hajszan Wine Estate, Vienna, © WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud

A river is a line that fundamentally marks the regions 04 ENCOUNTERS through which it flows. For millennia the Danube has Depictions of three Austrian provinces created and marked boundaries and bonds, cultures and their enduring love for the Danube and natural regions, riverside paths and waterways, work areas and recreational landscapes. It is a constant 10 DANUBE CYCLING witness of history. In 2014 we will mark the 200th anniversary of the Congress of Vienna where the borders of Beds, bikes and a quality seal Europe were newly drawn. We will also commemorate the centennial of the outbreak of the World War I and 12 DANUBE GARDENS the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Iron Curtain. A Baroque passion for gardens The 30th anniversary of the Danube Bike Path, which also falls in 2014, may seem a bit out of place among 14 DANUBE CULTURE events of such import for world history. Yet this bike Traditional, avant-garde and path runs as a matter of course from Passau, Germany, the culinary arts along the Danube in Austria and now beyond to Brati slava, Slovakia. Doesn’t that fact have symbolic power in the scope of world history? And once again it is the 18 DANUBE HIKING Danube that marks this development. Hiking with no luggage This echo of grand history is always apparent. It is there when you spend leisurely days on the banks of this 20 DANUBE CELEBRITIES river enjoying the fine wine or culinary delights, when Interview with Gerhard Haderer you cycle around or visit lovely gardens. It is there in the traditional and the avant-garde. That is what makes 22 POINTS OF DEPARTURE holidays along the Danube in Austria so special. Tips and events Fritz Gillinger Editor-in-Chief of DANUBE Magazine

DONAU ÖSTERREICH CONTACT DETAILS Upper Austria: contact Donau Oberösterreich WGD Tourismus GmbH, 4040 Linz, Lindengasse 9 T +43 732 7277-800, [email protected], www.danube.at Lower Austria: contact Donau Niederösterreich 3620 Spitz/Donau, Schlossgasse 3 T +43 2713 30060-60, [email protected], www.donau.com Vienna Tourist Board Tourist Info, 1010 Vienna, Albertinaplatz/Maysedergasse T +43 1 24 555, [email protected], www.vienna.info

CREDITS Responsible for content: ARGE Donau Österreich, Lindengasse 9, 4040 Linz, T +43 (0)732 7277-800, www.austria.info/donau | Project management: Petra Riffert | Editorial and production: LWmedia, Ringstrasse 44/1, 3500 Krems, T +43 (0)2732 82000, www.lwmedia.at, LWmedia CEO: Erwin Goldfuss | Editor-in-chief: Fritz Gillinger | Art director: Martin Bauer | Graphic designer: Christian Eckart | Copy: Fritz Gillinger, Bernhard Mayerhofer, Ángeles Hiedler, Anita Ericson, Thomas Rambauske, Barbara Hutter | Photos: LWmedia-Archiv/Shutterstock, zVg, Linz Tourismus/Johann Steininger, Manfred Seidl, WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud, Gewista, Schloss Hof, Bhavanesh Chamdal/Ars Electronica Linz, Schloss Grafenegg/Manfred Klimek, Ulrich Kehrer, Zisterzienserstift Wilhering/Fritz Fröhlich, Exceptional Pictures_WT, Bernie Boess, WGD Tourismus GmbH/Hochhauser, Donau Niederösterreich/Dr. Franz Hauleitner, Christoph Haderer, Linz Tourismus, WGD Tourismus GmbH/Weissen- brunner, Stift St. Florian/Hans Fronius „Erweckung des Lazarus“, WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud, Donau Niederösterreich/Steve Haider, Donau Niederösterreich/Lachlan Blair, WienTourismus/Karl Thomas. Copy deadline: November 2013. No liability accepted for errors or omissions. Content subject to change without notice. © LWmedia-Archiv/Shutterstock © AUSTRIA ON THE DANUBE

CYCLING UNLIMITED IN THE DANUBE VALLEY CONCERTS DANUBE BAROQUE DANUBE CYCLE PATH DANUBE LEGENDS DANUBE SHIPPING DECELARATION DONAUFESTWOCHEN DONAU IN FLAMMEN DONAUSTEIG TRAIL DOWN-TO-EARTH ENERGETIC ENJOYABLE DESTINATION FERRIES FINE FOOD & BEER

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AUSTRIA Steininger Tourismus/Johann Linz © ON THE DANUBE Linz and the Danube are inseparably interconnected. That is why the 2014 program of the Upper Austrian capital is called “Danube.Changes, Linz.”

LIFELINE OF EUROPE LINZER KLANGWOLKE LINZER TORTE MUSIC THEATER LINZ PASSION FOR VEGIES SCENIC NATURE SCHLÖGENER SCHLINGE HAIRPIN ST. FLORIAN’S ABBEY STRUDENGAU VIBRANT CULTURAL LIFE www.danube.at

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 05 AUSTRIA ON THE DANUBE

APRICOTS ASPARAGUS CARNUNTUM CULTURE AND THE ARTS DANUBE BIKE PATH DANUBIAN LIMES ENJOYMENT GARDENS GRAFENEGG MUSIC FESTIVAL HEURIGE KAMP VALLEY KLOSTERNEUBURG KREMS MARCHFELD COUNTRY ESTATES MELK ABBEY MOST ROAD NATIONAL PARK NIBELUNGS PREMIUM ROOMS RIVER CRUISES

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AUSTRIA Seidl Manfred © ON THE DANUBE The “Gate to the Wachau”: Wellenspiel Café, Restaurant, Lounge, Vinoteque in Krems

RUBIN CARNUNTUM WINE EGON SCHIELE SOLSTICE TRAISEN VALLEY TULLN WACHAU – UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LANDSCAPE WACHAU GOURMET FESTIVAL WACHAU LABERL WAGRAM WELTERBESTEIG WACHAU HIKING TRAIL WINE WINE ROAD WIRTSHAUSKULTUR www.donau.com

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 07

ON THE DANUBE

ART CULTURE BOATING DANUBE CANAL DANUBE ISLAND FESTIVAL DANUBE SHIPS DANUBE TOWER DONAU-AUEN NATIONAL PARK ENJOYMENT FIAKERS HABSBURGS HEURIGE HOFBURG PALACE HUNDERTWASSER IMPERIAL JUGENDSTIL MUSEUMS MUSEUMSQUARTIER NEW YEAR’S CONCERT PRATER RINGSTRASSE

08 // DANUBE magazine 2014 vienna // ENCOUNTERS © WTV/Peter Rigaud

Magic moments in Vienna, Albertina

SACHER TORTE SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE SCHÖNBRUNN ZOO ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL VIENNA CONTEMPORARY VIENNA BOY’S CHOIR VIENNA WOODS VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSE VIENNESE CUISINE WATER SPORTS WATERWAY WINE ▪ www.vienna.info

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 09 Danube cyclists can take advantage of bett+bike lodgings all along the Danube in Austria. RIVERSIDE CYCLING AND CITY FLAIR

The Danube Bike Path is now 30 years old, whereby the word “old” does not apply at all. This product for holiday cyclists has had unmatched success since being “invented” in 1984 and THE DANUBE BIKE PATH IS IN EXCELLENT has undergone constant improvements ever since. The latest TH CONDITION IN THIS ITS 30 YEAR. is that bett+bike accommodations are available to Danube THIS CLASSIC OF CYCLING TOURISM IS NOW cyclists starting immediately along the entire length of the THE FIRST CYCLING ROUTE IN AUSTRIA TO Danube in Austria. For guests, this name means top quality OFFER BETT+BIKE ESTABLISHMENTS ALONG they can rely on. bett+bike is a seal of quality that lodgings have to earn. All establishments bearing this seal must provide ITS ENTIRE LENGTH. THAT MEANS CYCLISTS a secure storage place for bicycles, a room for drying wet CAN COUNT ON FINDING BICYCLE-FRIENDLY clothing, first-aid services and a hearty breakfast. Of course, TOP QUALITY ACCOMMODATIONS. bett+bike hosts also help with small breakdowns and have an ÁNGELES HIEDLER & FRITZ GILLINGER inside tip or two for cyclists about side trips in the area. At www.bettundbike.de/donauradweg-oesterreich you can check out suitable accommodations along the Danube well

before you take off on your holidays. There is a link for each Haider Niederösterreich/Steve Donau ©

10 // DANUBE magazine 2014 award-winning // DANUBE CYCLING

INTERVIEW WITH HOLIDAY CYCLIST ANDREA WENZEL FROM GLADBECK, GERMANY CYCLING HOLIDAYS

Is this your first time cycling along the Danube? Andrea Wenzel: Yes. Well, I did do part of the Danube Bike Path years ago but not the whole thing, all the way across Austria, I’d never done that. The unique thing about cycling along the Danube is the combination of nature, culture and enjoyment.

We are talking with you here at a bett+bike lodging. Is that an accident or are you staying here intentionally? Intentionally. I am familiar with the bett+bike system from Germany. ADFC, the big cycling club in German, awards the bett+bike quality seal to establishments that are perfect for holiday cyclists like me. Gewista ©

What is your favorite place along the Danube? As I said, I have never covered the whole route, but I was BICYCLE-FRIENDLY VIENNA especially fascinated by the natural landscapes in Upper Austria and the small wine villages in the Wachau Valley. The city has over 1,200 cycling routes. They are lined with accommodations of all kinds that provide spe- What advice would you give to holiday cyclists with cial services for holiday cyclists: lockable bike storage regard to planning a trip along the Danube in Austria? room, repair tools, and information for cyclists. The They should make sure they schedule ample time so they 9,000 bike parking spaces in park-and-ride facilities can really enjoy the trip. The bett+bike accommodations also offer the perfect opportunity to give the bike a rest make it easy as can be to plan overnight stays. once in a while.

establishment to the homepage und information such as specific services for cyclists, prices, number of rooms or // INFO BOX distance from the next train station. The tourist offerings are so diverse, all Danube cyclists are sure QUALITY SEAL: bett+bike is a quality mark you can rely on to find something to make them happy, whether they are into About 50 tested lodgings for cyclists from Passau, Germany to Klosterneuburg, Austria action-packed distance tours, laid-back bike outings or re- have been awarded the bett+bike seal of quality. They guarantee Danube laxing rides on electric-bikes. That applies even to those who cyclists a myriad of advantages and amenities plus top quality standards, information and inside tips, free overnight accommodations for children did not bring along a bicycle. For instance, there are practical up to the age of 6 plus locked bicycle storage rooms, light snacks for three-gear rental bicycles available throughout Lower Austria cyclists and inexpensive beverages. There are e-points with recharging stations and at least two rental bikes for Danube cyclists touring the re- around the clock that cost no more than € 8.00 a day. All you gion on electric bikes. Order the bett+bike brochure at the address below have to do is go to one of the many Nextbike stands. www.bettundbike.de/donauradweg-oesterreich Vienna is every bit as progressive as Upper and Lower Austria AWARD-WINNING: when it comes to cycling tourism. In Vienna, all roads lead Four stars for the Danube Bike Path You can be sure that Germany’s most renowned cyclists’ to the Ringstrasse. Enthusiastic holiday cyclists will find an organization ADFC is strict and thorough when it tests abundance of cultural treasures along this magnificent boule- a cycling route. The Danube Bike Path passed this test with an excellent four-star rating.. vard encircling the first district of Vienna and bicycle-friendly accommodations are not far away. Again there is something for every type of cyclists, from small boutique hotels to ex-

VOLL AUF KURS MIT E-MOBILITÄT ORDER: Danube Bike Path folder travagant designer hotels or famous international hotel chains. The Danube Bike Path folder contains vital information on cycling along the Danube in Austria. After a cultural sightseeing tour around the Ring, the Vienna The clearly drawn maps show the exact layout of

DONAURADWEG VON PASSAU BIS BRATISLAVA 2014 Parkring Hotel offers a wonderful view of the route just cycled www.donauradweg.at | www.donau.com the bike route in 13 legs from Passau, Germany to Bratislava, Slovakia. The folder also contains and the magnificent buildings just passed. The Vienna Hilton information about overnight accommodations, highlights in the towns and Hotel is bicycle-friendly, too, and right across from Wien Mitte cities along the Danube as well as schedules for passenger ship service and information on the recharging stations for e-bikes along the way. – The Mall – Vienna’s brand new shopping center. The ambi- Order the folder and download all legs of the route: ence of a city hotel is unusual after a cycling tour but naturally [email protected] | www.donauradweg.at part of the cycling experience along the Danube in Austria.

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 11 Magical garden enchantment at Schönbrunn with a view of the Gloriette A BAROQUE PASSION FOR GARDENS

SEVERAL OF THE FINEST EXAMPLES OF The Baroque Age was a sensual and exciting era for those BAROQUE GARDEN LANDSCAPING CAN of means. Hidden nooks and crannies were intentionally in- BE FOUND ALONG THE DANUBE. tegrated in the huge gardens as spots for discrete rendez- vouses, back then and now. These lush niches in the park ANITA ERICSON at Schönbrunn Palace look as if they randomly occur in nature but were in fact planned by a strict hand in the manner St. Florian’s Abbey of the times. And there is no shortage of decoration – a stat- ue here, a fountain there, a temple a bit further out. They all stand along symmetrically arranged paths, which all converge on the main axis. At the foot of the mighty façade of Schön- brunn Palace, painted imperial yellow, are lavishly blooming broderie beds that reflect geometric elements from the building yet also form serpentine ornamentation. The lush blossoms are a joy to behold. Viewed from above, the beds look like fine embroidery, hence the term with the same meaning: “broderie”.

SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE: TOTAL WORK OF ART This overall impression of sumptuousness is what makes a Baroque garden so special. It is no accident that UNESCO put Schönbrunn on its World Heritage List noting that the palace and its gardens created a gesamtkunstwerk, a total work

of art. The only way to achieve this overall harmony was to let © Shutterstock, St. Florian‘s Abbey

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// INFO BOX

(Baroque) Gardens on the Danube Linz times three Bergschlösslpark is where lovers of splendid Baroque gardens will want to head (300 years old, 3 hectares in size). Harrachstrasse is a nice side trip. Every summer seasonal flower beds are planted there in Baroque style. The geometrically laid out flower beds inMuseum park are formally reminiscent of the Baroque Age. All three parks are open to the public. www.linz.at Hohenbrunn Castle Hohenbrunn Castle was built as a Baroque idealization of the quadrangular farmsteads so typical of Upper Austria between the rivers Traun and Enns. The garden around the castle has been partially replanted along the old axes. Today the castle houses one of the most significant hunting museums in the German-speaking countries. www.ooemuseumsverbund.at St. Florian’s Abbey Hof Palace – Baroque Garden Landscaping Venerable old trees tower imposingly over the Prelate’s Garden whereas the Novices’ Garden is famed for its roses, over 100 varieties of which can be found there. The Literature Garden has flowers, bushes and roof tiles bearing literary quotations. The Prelate’s Garden and the Literature Garden are regularly open to the general public whereas the Novices’ architects and landscapers plan the ensemble jointly. The Garden is publicly accessible only on certain dates. motto back then, in the heyday of Absolutism, was to get www.stift-st-florian.at Garten Tulln nature under control. That meant every tree, hedge and bush Garten Tulln is Europe’s first permanent ecological garden show. Although it has little con- was not only planned to fit into a strictly symmetrical arrange- nection with the Baroque, garden lovers traveling along the Danube will not want to miss it. The highlights among the more than 50 model gardens include special theme gardens, the ment but also relentlessly kept properly trimmed and shaped Treetop Trail with lookout tower and the water park with pedal boats. www.diegartentulln.at | www.diegaerten.at by legions of gardeners. Hof Palace After several hundred years, the terraced garden of Hof Palace has now been returned to the original size and splendor it enjoyed in the days of Prince Eugene of Savoy. In the Baroque ST. FLORIAN’S: FOR NOVICES AND VEGETABLES garden of Hof Palace, visitors can stroll over seven terraces, passing broderie beds, pergolas and magnificent fountains. The artistically designed beds enchant visitors in the spring with Worldly rulers were not alone in preferring well-groomed nature. tulips, daffodils, violas and crowns imperial. Spiritual leaders did, too. That is why so many monasteries have www.schlosshof.at Melk Abbey such enchanting Baroque gardens, St. Florian’s Abbey for exam- The abbey park shows how natural and spiritual elements have combined over the span of ple. The grounds are divided into three parts. First is the Prelate’s 250 years to create a unique space. The revitalization of the park over the past 15 years has rendered certain structures visible again. Some of them date back to the Baroque Age. Garden featuring imposing trees and connected to the abbey At the first level, all eyes are drawn to the Baroque garden pavilion with café. www.stiftmelk.at through a sala terrena. This hall on the ground floor marks the Augarten transition from inside to outside and was a fixed feature of Ba- The Augarten is the oldest Baroque garden in Vienna and in 1775 became the first imperial garden to be opened to the public. It is still a favorite place for people to spend their leisure roque complexes. The second area was the Novices’ Garden, time. Scenesters are attracted to the concerts, outdoor movies in the summer, festivals and the popular Bunkerei Restaurant whereas joggers come to run the trails. The park is open to located in the inner courtyard of the abbey, and the third, the the public. Vegetable Garden. The latter has been changed into a literature www.augarten.org Belvedere Palace garden with roof tiles bearing quotes placed between flowers The central middle axis of the symmetrical garden extends between the Lower Belvedere, and bushes. It is an inviting place to linger. built as living quarters, and the Upper Belvedere, built for representational purposes. Visitors’ eyes are drawn to the water games cascading between the flower beds. The exposed slope opens up a broad panoramic view of the city. The park is open to the public. MELK ABBEY AND HOF PALACE: GRAND DESIGNS www.belvedere.at Schönbrunn Palace Umberto Eco’s novel “Name of the Rose” was based on Melk The palace park was first opened to the public around 1779 and has been a favorite recreational area ever since. The design of the Baroque gardens has been largely preserved along Abbey in medieval times, when the novice Adson had, at most, with the additions from the final decade of Maria Theresa’s life. This design continues to an herbal garden to stroll through. When the abbey complex was determine the appearance of the palace garden at Schönbrunn. www.schoenbrunn.at rebuilt in Baroque style in the early 18th century, a park of the same style replaced its modest predecessor. At the first level, your eyes will inevitably be drawn to the Baroque garden pavil- // TIP ion surrounded by rose bushes and decorated inside with exotic frescoes. The second level is dominated by winding paths and A Baroque garden at home a fountain with drinking water. The third level contains the lifeline Unless you happen to have a lot of spare land, we recommend you lay a broderie bed to bring of the garden: the Baroque water reservoir lined with linden trees a touch of Baroque to your garden at home. 250 years old. To do so, you need a plan. The best approach is to visit one of the gardens suggested above The park at Hof Palace in Marchfeld is virtually unique. Prince and then take the ideas you obtain there and Eugene of Savoy had the palace built and Maria Theresa later scale them to your own specific situation. Then you divide the individual areas with iron strips purchased it. The park consists of a garden laid out in seven ter- to achieve a distinct separation between lawn, races, whose proportions, gradations and heights are all geared decorative elements and borders of flowers. Area decoration can consist of white marble precisely to the sight lines of the palace. The broderie beds feature gravel, black cinder and red crushed brick. pastel hues; a bit further away the colors become bolder. On the Like the beds, these areas are bordered by boxwood hedges kept trimmed to a height of fifth terrace hiding places have been incorporated in the hedges. 15 centimeters. You then plant flowers of your choice in the beds, placing Everything is just as it was back then. Experts have painstakingly the lower ones along the periphery and the higher ones toward the middle. Plan the combination in such a way that the colors harmonize with each reconstructed the garden plans and landscape gardeners have other and that you have flowers blooming constantly between May and used them to restore the garden in genuine detail. October. In the autumn, you set the bulbs for the spring plants. A not quite complete list of flowers commonly seen in Baroque times: marigolds, stocks, Tip: This authentic setting is the venue for the annual Hof Palace hollyhocks, snapdragons, globe amaranths, ornamental tobacco, carnations, Garden Party. For an entire evening those exuberant times are cel- amaranths, garden balsams, chrysanthemums, cleome spinosas, marvels of Peru and widow flowers.

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 13 A WHOLE NEW WAVE Project Beehive, Ars Electronica Linz

THE DANUBE HAS BEEN A CULTURAL Clean lines, functional forms and loads of glass – that is the re- LIFELINE FOR EUROPE FOR MORE THAN flection modern Linz casts into the Danube. That is how close 2000 YEARS, SERVING TO SEPARATE these landmarks of bold urban development are to the river. The AND TO CONNECT. TIME-HONORED award-winning ensemble comprising Lentos, the Ars Electronica Center (AEC) and the Brucknerhaus dominate the cityscape on TRADITIONS HAVE ALWAYS THRIVED the banks of the Danube. All buildings are bustling with activity ALONG ITS GENTLE BANKS BUT SO inside. The Brucknerhaus, for example, will present seven new TOO HAS MODERNISM AND EVEN music festivals in 2014 in one go. The museums are also show- THE AVANT-GARDE. casing the Danube. They invite visitors on a 3-D flight over the BARBARA HUTTER Danube Basin, to the Danube Aquarium and to a special show on culture, nature and economic development in this major city on the Danube. Forum Metall is an outstanding feature of the Danube Park in Linz. What began in 1977 as an exciting exhibition of large metal sculptures by renowned artists on the banks of the Danube in Linz has remained to this day a lively open-air ensemble of modern art that is well worth seeing. A new gem for the thriving culture scene along the Danube is the new Music Theater. With its purist lines of light-colored stone, the theater stages classics like “Ring des Nibelungen” as well as rarities like Ernst Ludwig Leitner’s “Fadinger” or the ballet “Blind Date” by Mei Hong Lin. Then there is the much-anticipated festival in September 2014 when the Linz Cloud of Sound will once again rise over the mighty river and spread all the way to the Voest steel mills. Speaking of anticipation, cultural and culinary delights form

an inseparable duo here too. After all, cultural adventures of Electronica Ars / Chamdal Bhavanesh ©

14 // DANUBE magazine 2014 setting the tone // DANUBE CULTURE

Left: The enchanting castle landscape with romantic park at Grafenegg is anything but sleepy in its cultural vitality. Below: Contemporary works by Fritz Fröhlich at the Cistercian Abbey of Wilhering.

whatever sort are bound to make you hungry and thirsty. And extraordinary works from the 16th century Danube School with Linz has delicious offerings in this regard, too, ranging from its “Religious Collection” comprising oil paintings, drawings and traditional to contemporary. Restaurants such as Donau printed graphic works by the modern Austrian artist Hans wirtinnen in Alt-Urfahr or Georg Friedl’s Mühlvierteln im Salzamt Fronius. St. Florian’s will present paintings by Fronius in 2014 at on Obere Donaulände have consciously opted for regional and its exhibition on the 100th anniversary of the outbreak of World organic fare whereas Josef on Landstrasse and Café EXX serve War I as well. “cenuinely Upper Austrian tappas.” Linz is a hotspot of modern cuisine in any case once a year when top international chefs AVANT-GARDE WINE ARCHITECTURE gather for a cook-off at the Culinary Art Festival. Imposing Melk Abbey serves as a grand Baroque gateway to the Wachau. Yet innovation and the avant-garde also thrives NEW LIFE IN VENERABLE MONASTERIES here among the ancient wineries and apricot orchards, defi- Of course this culinary diversity continues at several other ant fortress churches and ancient dry-stone terraces where places along the Danube. One interesting example is Mühldorf Riesling and Veltliner flourish. There is hardly a Danube region Castle in Feldkirchen, a lovely domicile with a history extending where culture and culinary delicacies are so closely linked as back about a thousand years. Everything here radiates dignified here. And new approaches are being taken to wine: The win- elegance and British lifestyle. The cuisine reflects a fresh and emakers’ association Vinea Wachau has created a mobile app modern approach to the culinary arts. called myWachau that allows guests to find out which wine- Anyone living along a major river has to be open to new things. maker they can visit without an appointment, which heurige The Baroque magnificence of the monasteries along the Danube wine taverns happen to be open and the names of the indi- is just part of the story. For instance, at the Cistercian Abbey vidual Wachau vineyards. Smart or not, the wine-makers must of Wilhering, the historical art treasures and wonderful organ take care not to forget their roots. Michael Wagner from Vinea music – by the exceptional organist Balduin Sulzer– are side by Wachau is convinced of that fact. “Tradition continues to play a side with contemporary art works, e.g. the drawings, collages, role despite investments in modern buildings and design. Wine paintings and sculptures of the Austrian artist Fritz Fröhlich, makers here in the Wachau have simply gotten a lot of things

© Grafenegg Castle/Manfred Klimek, Cistercian Abbey of Wilhering/Fritz Fröhlich, Ulrich Kehrer who died in 2001. And St. Florian’s Abbey supplements its right.” Modern wine cellars and bright, spacious presentation

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 15 Grafenegg Castle: New perspectives

Here, romantic historicism meets fresh, exciting architecture and where a structure of concrete steel and glass rises into the sky music. After evolving for centuries, the architectural landscape of Grafenegg changed yet again in 2007 with the addition of the in the middle of the historical castle park: the Wolkenturm, the remarkable Wolkenturm stage (see photo). Set in a natural hollow, open-air stage for the annual musical festival. the structure forms a sharply angular sculpture of steel and glass reaching up into the tops of the ancient trees. Concert-goers enjoy The wine country along the Danube – Kamp Valley, Traisen Val- the romantic ambience looking out from the stands with seating for ley, Wagram – is always good for surprises in any case. Fans of over 1,700 and from the surrounding hills with lawn seating for over 300. Director Rudolf Buchbinder is famed for his world-class festi- modern architecture are sure to hit pay dirt here. A good example vals showcasing the Niederösterreichische Tonkünstler as orchestra is the Loisium, the now legendary smooth black building of the in residence and leading international orchestras playing as guests at the Grafenegg Festival every summer. www.grafenegg.at winemaker Fred Loimer in Langenlois or Weritas, the wine center for the Wagram region. How does ancient wine culture and modern architecture fit together? “Superbly!” Gerhard Hintermayer rooms can be found at such wineries as Alzinger or Rudi Pichler. says, especially when the structure is so well integrated into the There are many exciting stops to choose from along the Danube. landscape as Weritas is: “The building is balancing on the edge The vinotheque of Domäne Wachau in Dürnstein or Sandgrube of a loess bank, a sediment that is very important for Wagram. 13 of Winzer Krems are among the best known, as is the gour- There is a view from there of the vineyards and the broad Tulln met restaurant Kloster Und, now run by Charly Teuschl, one of Basin all the way to Mount Ötscher. Modern, open, transpar- the most unconventional restaurateurs in the city. ent. In the architecture, in wine glasses, in the cellar. Winemaking Something immediately obvious in Linz becomes apparent only practices are also shifting away from classic wooden barrels to at second glance in Krems: the avant-garde. As the eastern steel tanks. Clean and precise work procedures are what are gateway to the Wachau, Krems boasts a rich history yet also needed, a clear-cut course. presents an open and modern side with the new Danube ship- The Danube draws just that in the landscape as it passes wet- ping station and adjoining restaurant, “Wellenspiel” (wave-play). lands and towns such as Tulln with its new Schiele Museum and Its reputation for modernity began years ago when the art mile Klosterneuburg with the stately monastery of the Augustinian was installed. This entailed the Kunsthalle Krems, which was Canons and Museum Essl, Austria’s largest private collection of skillfully integrated into the former tobacco factory in Stein, and contemporary art. the Caricature Museum, striking for its whimsical façade. Zeit- kunst Niederösterreich, for its part, uses the Dominikanerkirche VIENNA’S HEART BEATS TO A MODERN RHYTHM to present provocative and unconventional fare, sometimes in Next its waves lap against the banks of Vienna, the capital city. classical guise. The bold new face of the city is there to see Donau-City is the name of the new section of Vienna that has for anyone who takes a close look. Of course, side-trips are risen up between the UN complex and the Danube. Even before

also allowed. A good choice would be Grafenegg, for instance, the spire of St. Stephen’s Cathedral comes into view, a shiny Pictures_WT Exceptional ©

16 // DANUBE magazine 2014 setting the tone // DANUBE CULTURE

black finger can be seen in front of the sophisticated skyline. It is the first of the two DC Towers by star architect Dominique Perrault, a new and elegant city landmark built according to ecological criteria. On the edge of Prater Park on the other side of the river, prominent architects have built the new campus for the Vienna University of Economics and Business for more than 25,000 students. Zaha Hadid Architects was responsible for the library and learning center. Other buildings were designed by Atelier Hitoshi Abe, by CRABstudio Architects and by No. MAD Arquitectos. There are additional new structures in the center of the city, too. A favorite place to meet is set between elegant late 19th century palaces and Baroque facades – in the MuseumsQuartier between the Leopold Museum and mumok, the Tanzquartier and the Architekturzentrum. Besides the charm of Empress Elis- abeth and nostalgic heurige taverns, the Viennese heart beats to a modern rhythm, also in the outer districts. For instance, the former Anker bread factor in the 10th district houses ten contemporary art institutions. Built in the early 20th century, this industrial building has seen a host of studios and galleries move into available space around its two huge inner courtyards. The Danube Park and nearby Danube Tower on the other bank of the Danube mark their 50th anniversaries in 2014 with an exhibition about leisure time and recreational activities in Vienna over the past five decades. The new ultra-modern train station is being built into an international transportation hub complete with a wealth of residential and office space and is slated to be finished in 2015. The Vienna subway is the fastest way to go from point A to point B. But if you take a bit more time in the subway you can discover fascinating art in several stations. The subway lines U1, U2 and U3 are Vienna’s “art lines”. For over 20 years, art works have been put up in many stations. International artists such as Ken Lum, Nam June Paik and An- DC Towers: Astonishing architecture ton Lehmden as well as Austrian masters like Gottfried Kumpf have provided works ranging from modern installations to wall Dominique Perrault has designed two DC Towers. One has been completed murals and sculptures. so far and is already a focal point of the Vienna skyline, a modern landmark for the city. It is the second-tallest MOST LIVABLE CITY IN THE WORLD building in Austria after the 220-meter Vienna has been voted the most livable city in the world several high Danube Tower and combines architectural esthetics with the most times. Modern architecture and a lively design scene can be modern ecological construction and thanked for that, along with nightlife, shopping and ample green functionality. DC I is also one of the first Austrian office buildings to have areas, especially along the Danube. Norbert Kettner from the been erected and equipped to meet the Vienna Tourist Board is proud of this diversity: “Vienna perfectly energy and sustainability requirements for a green building set down by the combines northern European functionality and efficiency with a EU Commission. www.dctowers.at southern European zest for life. The only thing the city lacks is the sea – that may be why people appreciate the many sports and recreational offerings on and around the Danube all the more.“ Donau-Auen National Park, for instance. Today, the former // INFO BOX hunting grounds of the Habsburgs is a natural paradise four kilometers wide and links two European capitals: Vienna and www.lentos.at | www.aec.at | www.brucknerhaus.at www.landestheater-linz.at | www.klangwolke.at Bratislava. This Twin City Region will grow even closer in the www.diedonauwirtinnen.at | www.muehlvierteln-salzamt.at upcoming years. Margit Neubauer from Donau Tourism is www.josef.co.at | www.cafe-exx.at | www.hotspots-linz.at www.schlossmuehldorf.at | www.stiftwilhering.at convinced of that: “The intermingling that was so common- www.stift-st-florian.at place in the Hapsburg Monarchy is happening again now. www.stiftmelk.at | www.domaene-wachau.at | www.late.at The traditional is becoming the modern.” The border town of www.kunstmeile-krems.at | www.grafenegg.at | www.weritas.at www.loisium-weinwelt.at | www.egon-schiele.eu Hainburg, once the end of Austria, is now in the heart of the www.stift-klosterneuburg.at | www.kirchen-am-fluss.at Centrope Region. New attractions such as the Kulturfabrik, a www.essl.museum/ former tobacco factory, invite visitors on a trip through time on www.viennadc.at | www.campuswu.at www.loftcity.at | www.hauptbahnhof-wien.at

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 17 Hiking the Donausteig Trail complete with natural and cultural treasures, as here in the Haichenbach ruins with a view of a famous meander in the Danube known as the Schlögener Schlinge. THE JOYS OF HIKING ALONG THE DANUBE

YOU CANNOT SAY THAT HIKING IS HIKING. so, ranging from mild to wild. We follow it along the Donausteig, AFTER ALL, HIKING WITHOUT A HEAVY which also varies, from flat to quite steep. It is a fantastic trail for PACK LIGHTENS YOUR MOOD AND hikers keen on maintaining a striding gait and exploring the area, MAKES LIFE ON THE TRAIL ALL THE making it their own. Distance hikers follow the trail from Passau through the upper Danube Valley, then through the Eferding Ba- MORE ENJOYABLE. THOMAS RAMBAUSKE sin, Linz and the riverside wetland forests around the confluenc- es of the rivers Enns and Traun; finally they pass Machland and the Strudengau and arrive in Grein. This route has everything a hiker’s heart could want: beautiful promenades along the river, MILD TO WILD forested river banks, romantic ravines and canyons, cultivated Engelhartszell, the third leg of the Donausteig Trail on the south farmland but also organically evolved cities and villages. The bank of the Danube. Passau and Vichtenstein are behind us and route is truly superb and has a total length of 450 kilometers we still have a number of legs ahead of us until we hit Grein. counting both banks! Pleasantly cool morning with the scent of freshly mowed grass Just after Oberranna we leave the Danube and turn off into wafting through Donaumarkt, which we leave well-fed and rested. the Kösslbach Valley nature preserve. The brook has dug an Every hiker loves this early hour, so clear, so perfect. Everything erosion valley here characterized by steep slopes, pulpit rocks, so quiet, so serene. We take off, unburdened, each carrying only rock flows and mixed forests in the ravines. We hike on narrow a small daily back pack. The rest of our luggage is taken from one trails, the sounds of the bubbling brook and rustling forest serv- lodging to the next. We depart unencumbered und walk along ing as background music, and continue on to the “Four Fourths

the Danube, until reaching Oberranna. The flow of the river varies Outlook Point”. New experiences are guaranteed thanks to GmbH/Hochhauser Tourismus WGD ©

18 // DANUBE magazine 2014 © Donau Niederösterreich/Dr. Franz Hauleitner centered inourselves. andhave attainedyetanothergoal,thatoffeeling Dürnstein After agoodfourhourswe reach thepicturesque townof crannies ofthisdelightfullandscape. are theperfectwaytoexplore themostbeautifulnooksand to place.The14legscomprising180highlydiversekilometers magical countrysideinfullistohikeatyourleisure from place history givenatangibleshape.Thebestwaytoexperiencethis unique compositionofsoundsandcolors,nature andculture, Wachau, aUNESCOWorld Heritagelandscape,isindeed a summer andthecarpetofgoldenleavesinautumn.The soms inthespringtolushgreen ofthevineyards inlate but the riotof colors aswell. From the white of the apricot blos- from thetreetops. Itisnotjustthisconcertofsounds,though, through theairfrom thewinevillagesandrushofwind the bank,criesofherons andgulls.Heurigemusicfloats close totheriver, wetakeinthetremolo ofthewaveshitting magical contrasts so characteristic of the Wachau. Walking scape ofrocks and forests. Onceagainwefindoneofthose vineyards andimmerse ourselvesonceagaininabizarre land- ginning oftheWachau wineregion. AtKellerbergweleavethe Steiner vineyards, then uptoPfaffenberg, whichmarksthebe- of thiswonderfultrail.Theroute continuesthrough theidyllic eyes. Thatisthemottonotjusthere butoneveryotherleg of Kreuzberg. We breathe deeplyandrevel inthisfeastforthe legendary Kreuzbergstiege takesusintothescenicvineyards Krems withits manyarchitectural sights.JustafterKrems the ancient Danubehistorywaftsthrough theairincenterof The prologue leadsfrom Krems Thescentof toDürnstein. scope ofimages! esque villages, the idyllic hilltops – what an intoxicating kaleido yellow andgreen striped fields,the romantic forests, the pictur yards covered withvinesanddecoratedcastleruins,the monuments isagesamtkunstwerk,totalworkofart.Thevine- ing rivervalleywithallitssceniccharmandimposingcultural Walking through theWachau yousoonrecognize thatthewind- it isadeclarationoflovetoanartisticallycomposedlandscape. Wachau. The Welterbesteig is more than a distance hiking trail, you meetuponanolesswonderfultrail–theWelterbesteig If youkeepfollowingtheDanubeintoWachau Valley, THE MOSTSCENICCORNEROFAPARADISE fortable lodgings.LifealongtheDanubeisonebigcelebration. ed here from the last host. The 52 Donausteig hosts offer com - accommodations andourluggage,whichhadbeentransport- thetically andbeautifullyintheDanubeValley. We foundnice Danube isoneofthehighlightstour. Itisnestledsoes- the famedSchlögenerSchlinge!This180°meanderin brighten, acoolDanubewindwaftsaround us.Schlögenand Thecontourscomeintofocus,thecolors Early afternoon. above themightyriver. off. time. Happytime.Vital Time deeply. Lookaround. Itissoscenichere walking along and the 165rest areas alongtheDonausteig. Break time.Breathe The riverleavesitsmark.Itisacreator andstaralikeonthehikingtrails running alongitsbanks.ThisviewintheWachau is acaseinpoint: Weissenkirchen withitsvineyards inautumnalraiment. - Packages bookableat:www.donaureisen.at |www.touristik.at |www.salzkammergut.co.at To obtainmore informationandorder free folders,visitwww.best-trails.at lodging establishments. optimum trailmanagementandexcellent servicefrom adiverserangeofeatingand offer nature enthusiastsawellspringofinformationforuniquehiking experiences, riences. ThefourtrailsDonausteig,Welterbesteig Wachau, LechwegandAlpannonia Discover thescenicbeautyofAustriaand treat yourselftounforgettable hikingexpe- Best trailsinAustria www.peacewalk.eu and SlovenjGradecthenontoTrieste ontheItalianMediterranean. Route beginsinthetriangleBrno–Vienna–Bratislava,proceeds toSopron, Maribor officially on28July2014atthesquare infront ofthe Vienna CityHall.ThePeace A newwalkingroute 570kilometerslongthrough fiveEuropean countriesopens European PeaceWalk www.wien.info/de/einkaufen-essen-trinken/wiener-wein-heurige/weinwanderweg from Strebersdorf toStammersdorfwithitsmanyheurige taverns. views ofthecity. Route1takesyoufrom NeustiftamWalde toNussdorf;route 2goes hike. There are manyopportunitiestosamplethefinevintagesandenjoywonderful Vienna’s uniquevineyards canbeexplored everyyearinthefallonaone-daywine One-day Vienna winehikeeachyearattheendofSeptember Contact forbooking:www.wachau.at |[email protected]+43271330060-0 Bookable fromApriltoOctober2014forgroupsof2ormore. aslow stay/breakfast per personindoubleroomwithovernight map, routedescriptionandinfoonWachau, aUNESCOWorld Heritagelandscape,price byhotel,hikingpackagewith products,luggagetransferred sack luncheswithregional inselected accommodations,daily stayswithbreakfast Package includes:4overnight staysintheWachau,your overnight avalleyontheUNESCOWorld HeritageList. andexclusive4-starhotelsintheregion Modern are back toDürnstein. availablefor you fromtoWeissenkirchen Dürnstein andbeyondtoSpitz,Rossatzbachthen Historical towns,vineyards andgloriousvistasare thehighlightsofthishiketaking Hike withgloriousvistas landscape, pricep.indoubleroomfrom package withmap,routedescriptionandinfoonWachau, aUNESCOWorld Heritage byhost,2luggagetransfershotels,hiking products,prepared lunches withregional inselected accommodations,2sack stayswithbreakfast Package includes:2overnight breathtaking view. the Danube(Jauerling).HansPichlerNature ParkCenter withDanubeterraceanda of themostscenicvineyards intheWachau. Jauerlingcircular hiketotheroof of Here youproceed longtheWelterbesteig Wachau panoramahikingtrailthrough some For climbingenthusiasts&winelovers book, Donausteighikingmapandluggagetransfer, from 1Donausteighiking staysindoubleroomwithbreakfast, Package includes:4overnight hiking map, boat ride, return ontrainfromLinztoPassau, hiking map,boatride,return luggagetransfer, staysindoubleroomwithbreakfast, Package includes:6overnight Burgstall inKirchberg/D. alongwithcountlessart-historicalsights. forests inCentralEurope, thenarrowest pointintheDanubeValley inAustriaat stein, hauntedHaichenbachCastle,themostextensivearea ofslopeandravine uplands toLinzinsevendays.Fascinatingpickings:DanubemermaidIsaatJochen- Freed ofheavyluggage,youhikefrom BavarianForest thesouthern through the Week-long hikeonDonausteigfrom PassautoLinz Hikable Danube // as low of departure. for instance,oratthePredigtstuhl lookoutpoint.AndthenbacktoGrein, yourpoint untouched naturalcountrysidewithterrificviewsintheStillensteinklammcanyon, “Pearl oftheStrudengau”,andtakesyoutoanarrayculturalhighlights.Enjoy The five-daycircular hikebeginsintheDanubevillageofGrein, alsoknownasthe Circular hikeinStrudengau|5days–4nights Bookable from March to November 2014 for groups of 2 or more Bookable fromMarchtoNovember2014forgroupsof2ormore INFO BOX

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16 p.

A photo montage but one with a message: Gerhard Haderer, one of the most successful caricaturists in German speaking Europe, with the Danube and Rannariedl Fortress behind him. His father was born here on the Danube and Gerhard went on rides with his father in a zille, the flat-bottomed boats common to this region. GERHARD HADERER Are there special events you experienced as a child or adult that you associate with the Danube in Austria? HE LIVES “SOMEWHERE IN UPPER AUSTRIA AND HIS DRAWINGS TELL Gerhard Haderer As a child if I was a good boy I was allow COLORFUL JOKES.” GERHARD HADERER ed to go with my grandma to the movies now and again. They VIEWS THE DANUBE AS A WONDER OF showed movies starring Waltraut Haas, Peter Weck and little THE WORLD AND CONSIDERS A BOAT Conny Froboess: “Mariandl” and “Mariandl’s Return.” They TRIP WITH CONNY FROBOESS FROM were set in the enchanting Wachau Valley, with the weather always perfect and the characters always in their Sunday best, PASSAU TO THE BLACK SEA A DREAM singing heart-wrenching songs. I think I fell for Conny hook, line WITHIN REACH. and sinker back then, as a ten-year-old. Sigh. INTERVIEW CONDUCTED BY FRITZ GILLINGER Do you have a favorite place along the Danube?

Gerhard Haderer No one place in particular. But there are In defining the verb “caricature” the DUDEN online dic- countless spots between Passau and Vienna where it is won- tionary used words such as to “distort, falsify, botch up, derful to sit, dwell on your thoughts and watch the mighty river pervert, disfigure, maim”, among others. Does that make flow by. My father, who was born in Oberranna, a village right you want to caricature the dictionary makers? on the Danube, was also a Danube fisherman. Today, I still vividly remember our rides in his flat-bottomed zille boat be- Gerhard Haderer Anyone who defines caricature so super tween Engelhartszell and Wesenufer. ficially probably looks like someone I could caricature as is without adding anything. On a more serious note, Reinhard Tramontana Do you like dancing the Blue Danube waltz? had this to say on the subject: Caricature is the art of distorting people or circumstances to the point where they become Gerhard Haderer Not at all. But if I were to ever dance, some- recognizable. I like that definition better. thing I can actually rule out doing, then it might be to that waltz. Why not? You caricature people and their character, their idiosyn- crasies. Is the Danube something a person could cari- Are there moments you yearn for the Danube? cature? Gerhard Haderer I had many such moments this summer Gerhard Haderer Not such an easy task. But if you depicted when temperatures reached the nearly tropical level of 40°C. the Danube as a harmless little sky-blue river the way it is extolled I was able to curb that longing by taking several dips a day in in thousands of waltzes and songs, you might elicit a smirk or Attersee. two from local people who know better. Many people dream of taking a voyage on the Danube, What associations come to mind when you think about say from Passau to the Black Sea. Are there any Danube the Danube? trips you have always dreamt about? Or have you already made those dreams come true? Gerhard Haderer First I think of the Wachau landscape, a wonder of the world. And about how the river was always Gerhard Haderer A trip like that has never really been a dream an economic lifeline in its history and still is today. As a Linzer of mine. It was for Hubert von Goisern, though. He ended up I also think about the Danube being the border between the sailing up and down the river with his musicians singing and American and Russian zones of occupation in Austria after playing wherever he went. That was great! I would have liked World War II. In 1955, when the occupation ended, the then to have been there, pen and paper in hand. I am sure I would governor danced a Blue Danube waltz with the wife of the have been inspired to draw dozens of merry caricatures. Or as mayor of Linz on the bridge out of sheer joy. It was quite a I implied above, to take a wonderful cruise from Passau to the scene. Black Sea with Conny Froboess … © Christoph Haderer Christoph ©

20 // DANUBE magazine 2014 interview // DANUBE CELEBRITIES

// INFO BOX

Witz und Weisheit: Haderer, Turrini und Theresa

For this book on wit and wisdom, Gerhard Haderer created lovingly rendered drawings to illustrate the fascinating conversations the Austrian writer Peter Turrini had with three-year-old Theresa. The result is a book full of Peter Turrini, Gerhard Haderer wisdom and wit of a kind only “Manchmal ist ein Fasan eine Ente” this trio could have achieved. Published by Jungbrunnen-Verlag

GERHARD HADERER Born in 1951, lives somewhere in Upper Austria and draws colorful jokes.

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 21 // Rad Total Thousands of cyclists are expected to come to Rad Total (Cycling Unlimited). All Danube municipalities between Passau and Schlögen are taking part with a lineup of great activities. The Danube is wonderful for hiking in the autumn and has associated events such as Legend Hike. www.radtotal.at | 4 May 2014 www.donausteig.com © WGD Tourismus GmbH/Weissenbrunner Tourismus WGD ©

// Art and culture of various genres at special venues The cultural network fussfrei (“with leg room”) is an inspiration for regional cultural activities. Rare operas are staged at the donauFESTWOCHEN at Greinburg Castle. The Clam Fortress, for its part, is known for its open-air concerts and St. Florian’s Abbey puts on abbey concerts featuring its own boys’ choir. Donau in Flammen (“Danube in flames”) features Bengal light and fireworks on the shore synchronized with thematically matching music and ignited under the banner of Danube legends. 01 www.fussfrei.at | www.clamconcerts.at | www.stift-st-florian.at 02 www.donauinflammen.com | 7 June, 20 June, 15 August 2014 www.donau-festwochen.at | 25 July to 15 August 2014

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// Danube.changes, Linz A city outing to Linz can change your perspective on things. The city invites you to take a welcome break on the banks of the Danube enjoying the views far into the distance. Immerse yourself in the diverse cultural life on the banks of the Danube. In 2014, Linz takes a special look at Europe’s second largest river: the travel route taken by emperors and kings, cyclists and hikers. A region of creativity for culture as well as the culinary arts. So tempting: a piece of Linzer torte on the banks of the Danube. New cultural formats such as the special theme festivals at the Brucknerhaus or the many festivals in the historical center of Linz provide welcome opportunities for a stopover or a weekend in Linz. www.linztourismus.at

Being mobile in Upper Austria © Brandner Schiffahrt, ARGE Donau 01 Donauschiffahrt Wurm+Köck Scheduled cruises Passau–Linz–Vienna Being mobile in Lower Austria Being mobile in Vienna www.donauschiffahrt.de Schifffahrt Donau Touristik 07 Brandner Schiffahrt 12 Danube Canal, www.donaureisen.at (passenger ships) Twin City Liner station 02 Passau Main Train Station Scheduled service Krems–Melk www.twincityliner.com www.oebb.at www.brandner.at 13 Port of Vienna/Handelskai (DDSG) 03 Linz Airport 08 Wachau Linien Scheduled service Vienna–Wachau www.flughafen-linz.at www.n-mobil.at www.ddsg-blue-danube.at 04 Linz Main Train Station 09 Krems Train Station 14 Vienna International Airport www.oebb.at www.oebb.at www.viennaairport.com 05 Donauuferbahn Linz–Grein 10 Wachau Bahn (train line) (rail line along Danube) www.noevog.at 15 Vienna Main Train Station www.hauptbahnhof-wien.at www.oebb.at 11 Radexpress Donau 06 Donauschiffahrt Ardagger (from Vienna to Passau 16 West Train Station (passenger ships) by train and bicycle) www.bahnhofcitywienwest.at www.donauschiffahrt-ardagger.at www.erlebnisbahn.oebb.at points of departure // DANUBE LIFE

// Culture and landscape A whole year of enticing cultural and other events in the Wachau, a region on the UNESCO World Heritage List. They range from “Osterreigen Wachau” at Easter time in April with a great lineup of cultural events and lots of delicacies to the world famous Melk Abbey and Grafenegg Music Festival or the Schallaburg. The latter is the venue in 2014 for the exhibition “Glory & Gloom: Living with the Great War 1914–1918”. One hundred years after the outbreak © Donau Niederösterreich/Lachlan Blair of World War I, this exhibition opens up brand new perspectives on what was called the “primal catastrophe of the 20th century”. The show focuses on personal stories, spotlighting the consequences and effects of the “Great War” on the population. www.osterreigen.at | April 2014 www.kultur-melk.at | Year-round www.grafenegg.at | Year-round www.schallaburg.at | 29 March to 9 November 2014

// VieVinum International wine festival in the Hofburg Palace in Vienna from 09 14 through 16 June 2014 08 www.vievinum.at

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© Die Garten Tulln // Danube Island Festival Europe’s biggest open-air event is being // Art of gardening meets magic of fire held for the 31st time. The Danube Island These gardens are your guarantee of a unique expe- Festival in Vienna has top stars in store for rience. Garten Tulln is an impressive walkable picture you again in 2014 with music of all genres book of the art of organic gardening with more than and an action-packed lineup of entertain- 50 special theme gardens on 10 hectares of land. ment. An attraction in a class all its own: Danube cruises at www.donauinselfest.at | 27–29 June 2014

the solstice in the Wachau and in Nibelungengau. Thomas WienTourismus/Karl © www.diegartentulln.at | 12 April through 5 October 2014 www.sonnenwende.at | 14 June 2014 Nibelungengau region 21 June 2014 Wachau region // Discovering Carnuntum It is as if time had simply stood still for 1,700 years. Carnuntum is an imperial city reborn. An entire section of an Ancient Roman city has now been restored in its historical // First European Peace Walk context. Well-worth a visit: Carnuntum Experience, an event A 570-kilometer-long hiking route through five series about wines that run the whole gamut. Not far from the European countries. The Peace Route begins in Ancient Roman city: Hof Palace, where you can gain insights the triangle Brno–Vienna–Bratislava, proceeds to into the lives of Maria Theresa and Prince Eugene of Savoy, Sopron, Maribor and Slovenj Gradec and then and Donau-Auen National Park, the only river landscape goes on to Trieste on the Italian Mediterranean. between the two major international cities of Vienna and Official opening: 29 July 2014 with the opening Bratislava. on the square in front of the Vienna City Hall. www.carnuntum-experience.at | August through September 2014 www.peacewalk.eu www.schlosshof.at | www.donauauen.at

DANUBE magazine 2014 // 23 THE DANUBE LINZ

LINZ ON THE BEAUTIFUL, COLOURFUL DANUBE – IMMERSE YOURSELF IN A RICHLY VARIED CULTURAL EXPERIENCE ON THE BANKS OF THE DANUBE! STORIES FROM THE PAST AND THE FUTURE GIVE LINZ 2014 A FRESH VIEW OF EUROPE’S SECOND- LONGEST RIVER, THE ROUTE OF EMPERORS AND KINGS, OF CYCLISTS AND WALKERS – THE DANUBE!

WWW.LINZTOURISMUS.AT I WWW.LINZ2014.AT I WWW.LINZ.AT/TOURISMUS

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FESTIVALS THEATRES AND CONCERTS • LinzFest 7–9 June 2014 • Danube on Fire 20 June + 15 August 2014 • International Pﬂ asterspektakel • Klangwolken visualised 6 Sept, classical 14 Sept 2014 street art festival 17–19 July 2014 • Bruckner Festival 14 Sept–05 Oct 2014 • Ars Electronica Festival 4–8 Sept 2014 • Musiktheater: Wagner’s Ring des Nibelungen – opera cycle 2013–2015 • Festival piano: 23.–26. Jän. 2014 EXHIBITIONS • Festival worldmusic: 20.–23. Feb. 2014 • Lentos Kunstmuseum: PURE WATER: the most precious resource • Festival old music: 06.–09. März 2014 03. Okt. 2014–11. Jan. 2015 • Festival Gitarre Flaming Strings: 14.–15. März 2014 • Nordico Stadtmuseum Linz: • Festival Passion: 14.–17. April 2014 Linz/Danube. Riverstory 06. Jun. –19. Okt. 2014 • Springfestival: 05.–18. Mai 2014 • Schlossmuseum: Qumran-Rollen Mär.–Sep. 2014

LINZ Tourist Information Linz TOURISMUS Tel. +43 732 7070 2009 [email protected]