Winter 2014 sizzleThe American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking

investigate a foodservice explore the sales career cuisine of sous vide Thailand menu trend sizzle The American Culinary Federation features NExt Quarterly for Students of Cooking 16 Networking can Help Publisher issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Advance Your Career • Explore pop-up restaurants Editor-in-Chief Start networking early to get a head start on landing • Discover the nontraditional Jessica Ward that first job. fish trend • Consider a career as a Senior Editor 22 Sous-vide Menu Trend cake decorator Jody Shee Chefs use sous vide to enhance complicated dishes and Graphic Designer speed up service. David Ristau

Contributing Editors 28 Consider a Career Rob Benes in Foodservice Sales Suzanne Hall Ethel Hammer Learn how chefs can turn their cooking Jody Shee experience into a successful sales job. 16 22 28 Direct all editorial, advertising and subscription inquiries to: American Culinary Federation, Inc. 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 departments [email protected] 4 President’s Message Subscribe to Sizzle: ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, challenges culinary students to set www.acfchefs.org/sizzle three goals in the new year. For information about ACF certification and membership, 5 Amuse-Bouche go to www.acfchefs.org. Student news, opportunities and more. 8 Slice of Life Steve Boresz walks us through a busy day in his apprenticeship as a line cook for Gemini Grille at Hilton Polaris, Columbus, Ohio. facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs 10 Classical V. Modern J. Kevin Walker, CMC, and Josh Page demonstrate the classic French dish Poulet Saute Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly a la Bourguignonne two ways. Learn the procedures and then try it for yourself. for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Winter Volume 11, Number 4, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. 34 By Degrees Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes Paul Sottile shows how to make paupiettes using flatfish. to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission 36 International Flavors of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do Marla Simon shares her experiences with Thai cuisine during a culinary trip to not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of Bangkok and Koh Samui. the officers, employees, contractors or members of the American Culinary Federation. 42 The Interview Learn how Asheville, North Carolina, chef Katie Button went from pursuing a doctorate in neuroscience to executive chef of her own restaurants. 46 The Quiz Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. 47 Last Bite Baltimore chefs offer their local dining picks.

Cover photo by J. Kevin Walker, CMC. See page 10.

2 Sizzle Winter 14 One Team. One Dream. ACF Culinary Team USA competes at the Expogast Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup, Nov. 22-26, in Luxembourg. Support these talented team members as they represent the culinary industry, ACF and the U.S. in this major international culinary competition.

Left to right: Ben Grupe; George Castaneda, CEC; Jason Hall, CMC; Aaron Haga, CEC; Timothy Prefontaine, CEC, coach; Joseph Leonardi, CEC; Corey Siegel, CC; Matthew Seasock, CEC; Shawn Culp, CEC; Joseph Albertelli; and Alison Murphy.

Like team on Facebook and watch the ACFCulinaryTeamUSA2016 @ACFChefs acfchefs.org/Team FoLLow us on twitter video president’s message ready, set, goals president’s message

Ready, Set, Goals By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, students, accomplish. Have big dreams, but sort of a map of your journey. realize that it will take achieving Keep yourself accountable and on The holiday season is here and numerous small goals to get you track by setting completion dates 2015 is around the corner. Now there. If your goals are too big for your goals. Visit your action is the time to start planning your and you keep failing, you will lose plan at those dates to remind goals for next year. It is important confidence and stop trying to yourself where you are going. to do this at checkpoints in your life reach for what you want. When you accomplish a goal, be to make sure you are staying on the sure to scratch it off your list and Don’t set a goal that is impossible path to reach your career dreams. record your success. Once you for you to achieve at this time in Before the new year is a great complete those three goals, start your life. If your goal is to work at time to check in, think about your a new list. When you look back a restaurant with three Michelin future and re-energize yourself. before the next new year, you will stars, more than likely that is be surprised and proud of how As culinarians, we know that not going to happen right out much you have accomplished. proper preparation and planning of culinary school. You need is key to success in the kitchen. to think about what you can Goal setting will make you think These principles can also be realistically do at this time to reach about your ideal future and applied to the rest of your that dream. Plan your way. Set three motivate you to turn your vision professional life. Without goals, goals you feel you can accomplish. into reality. So this new year, make we lack focus and direction. Take It is important to set specific goals it your goal to start setting goals.  some time before the holiday that are time bound. Don’t set Sincerely, rush is upon you to think about more goals than you can achieve. your future in the next few years. We are usually much busier than Then set three attainable goals we realize and adding too much Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC that are relevant to your career. to our daily routine can cause National President failure, too. American Culinary Federation I emphasize attainable because Product Specialist Manager/ many times we set ourselves up Write down your goals and your Food Fanatics™ Chef for failure by setting goals that are ideas on how to attain them. US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia too big and we are not ready to Make yourself an action plan as

4 Sizzle Winter 14 amuse-bouche

News & Opportunities scholarship watch related marketing or public relations, New culinary scholarship food photographer and food stylist. Scholarship award amounts range from Charlie Trotter’s Culinary Education Foundation recently donated $25,000 $250-$6,000 and will be given in July. to the American Culinary Federation The application deadline is March Education Foundation (ACFEF) 15, 2015. For more information, visit for culinary arts scholarships. Ten http://bit.ly/1sRxZdv. scholarships in $2,500 increments will be get techy with awarded to students cooking in 2015. Criteria Hands-free recipe app for the award will SideChef recently launched be based on financial need and grade point an iPhone version of its average. To apply, students need to popular iPad cooking app. be enrolled or accepted in a post- For cooks at all levels, the secondary, accredited culinary arts app features over 1,000 program. For more information, visit recipes from chefs, food http://bit.ly/1ac9YFB. bloggers, Le Cordon Scholarship for communicators Bleu College of Culinary If you plan to enter the field of food Arts in Atlanta and Alice or foodservice communications after Water’s Edible Schoolyard you graduate from culinary school, Project. Highlights of the you could be eligible to receive a app include a hands-free scholarship from the International narrative option for the Foodservice Editorial Council (IFEC). step-by-step directions and Among the career goals IFEC looks voice-command control. to support are food or foodservice Learn more about SideChef writer or editor, food- or foodservice- at www.sidechef.com. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 5 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

Sausage and beer app Hillshire Farm just launched an American & Ethnic Sausage Menu Guide app for iPhone and Android. The app targets foodservice operators, but provides a wealth of information on sausage and craft beer. It includes videos on sausage making, a regional sausage preference map, suggested sausage and beer pairings and information on beer flavor profiles. Learn more about the app in the iTunes or Android store.

Former ACF apprentice wins chef battle Former ACF apprentice Robert Trampier (pictured), CSC, sous chef, St. Louis Country Club, St. Louis, is the youngest chef ever to win the 10th annual Stella Artois Chef Battle Royale held in St. Louis, Sept 19-21. The 27-year-old chef is also the first sous chef and country club the taste of sweet chef to win this competition. His notable competition dish for the judges was Tasting of Apples made with Stella Artois Cidre-poached Tropical cupcake delights apple, hazelnut bavarois, lemon citrus Top honors went to Alexis Pelaschier of cider gelee, hazelnut praline paste, sable Sickerville, New Jersey, in the Academy breton, spiced cranberry glaze, chocolate of Culinary Arts at Atlantic Cape leaves and a white chocolate twist. Community College Cupcake Wars: Miss America Challenge held in Mays “It is really one of the best desserts Landing, New Jersey. Pelaschier won I’ve ever seen during 10 years of this for her Virgin Island-themed vanilla competition,” says Vito Racanelli, cupcake with mango filling. Sixteen executive chef, Mad Tomato, St. Louis, and competition host. “Bobby’s students organized and competed in enthusiasm and intense focus will most the Miss America Pageant-themed certainly lead him to a very fruitful competition that required students career in the culinary world.” to create mini cupcakes representing ingredients from a U.S. state/territory. Trampier completed a three-year Runner-up in the competition was ACF apprenticeship in 2012. His Jennifer Vacca of Brick, New Jersey, apprenticeship took place at Racquet with a Maryland-themed cupcake Club Ladue, St. Louis; Forest Hills left: Alexis Pelaschier that featured Old Bay seasoning in the Country Club, Chesterfield, Missouri; right: Jennifer Vacca buttercream frosting. and Algonquin Country Club, St. Louis.

6 Sizzle Winter 14 Apply to compete 18 chefs as they The American Culinary Classic, an brave host Gordon internationally sanctioned culinary Ramsey’s fiery competition by the World Association command each of Chefs Societies, will take place during week for a chance the 2015 American Culinary Federation to win a head- National Convention, July 30-Aug.3 in chef position at Orlando, Florida. The competition is one of Ramsey’s open to regional, college, company and restaurants. Santos military teams. Each team must have a started in finance team manager, three chefs and a pastry before he decided chef. The application deadline is March to switch careers 30, 2015. To learn more and download an and attend culinary application, visit http://bit.ly/1sLEM9J. school. He interned with Delaware young chef moves North Cos. at TD Garden and, in 2013, was named head chef at TD Former ACF student champ Garden’s Premium Club’s Executive lands a big job Suites. Santos is an ACF member JohnMichael Lynch, 2008 ACF through Delaware North Cos. National Student Chef of the Year and 2013 ACF Southeast Region Chef of good read the Year, was named executive chef for “In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca, Baker’s Odyssey” (Viking, 2014) by Sam Houston. Lynch, who started cooking Fromartz. Students who enjoy bread in high school and graduated from The baking might want to check out this Culinary Institute of America, Hyde book by journalist Sam Fromartz that Park, New York, plans to revamp the documents his journey working with menu and recently launched a weekly artisan bakers in Europe and the U.S. to tasting menu. Among his starter dishes perfect his baking skills. The book weaves is hand-pulled mozzarella with grilled together the history of grains, the science peaches, prosciutto and aged balsamic. of bread making and the personalities of One of his entrees features crispy bakers to create an informative account pan-seared branzino fish served with on bread and bread baking. It includes asparagus puree, basil lemon sauce, detailed recipes, tips and photographs. peeled and marinated cherry tomatoes Learn more about Fromartz and read the with saffron pickled fennel. book reviews at http://bit.ly/1u4FqKS.  ACF member is taking the heat Send us your news! on “Hell’s Kitchen” Do you want to appear in our next Brian Santos (pictured), CSC, sous issue? If so, we want to hear from chef with Delaware North Cos. at TD you. Send recipe contests, student Garden in Boston, made the casting accomplishments and school call and is competing on Fox’s “Hell’s announcements to sizzlemagazine@ Kitchen,” which airs Wednesdays acfchefs.net. at 8/7 Central. The show follows www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 slice of life steve boresz slice of life

Steve Boresz

age 29

education Apprenticeship program at Columbus State Community College (CSCC), Columbus, Ohio. On schedule to graduate in 2015 with a Certified Sous Chef credential.

work Line cook at Gemini Grille at Hilton Polaris, Columbus

why I chose CSCC I attended Ohio State University, Columbus, for 3 years and struggled to figure out what I wanted to do. I found my passion for food when I started working in professional kitchens 7 years ago and I began to pursue a culinary career. During my time as a banquet cook at Hilton Polaris, I decided to enroll in the culinary apprenticeship program at CSCC.

The culinary program at CSCC has an increasingly strong reputation. This year it was selected by FSR magazine as one of the top 20 culinary programs in North America. That accolade, along with affordable tuition, made it a no-brainer. I am also enrolled in the baking and pastry arts track.

most interesting lesson In my first position at the restaurant, I washed dishes. It was wet, exhausting, labor-intensive work, but it shaped the mold for the cook I would become. The day I moved up to line cook, my manager put his hand on my shoulder and told me to never forget where I started. I take those words with me every day, because it drives me to work hard and to never be above lending a helping hand.

career plans My goal is to obtain a sous chef position, hopefully within the company that manages Hilton Polaris.

8 Sizzle Winter 14 3:00 a.m. 8:00 a.m. It’s Easter Sunday—one of the I break from making bread to finish my busiest days our kitchen will see mise en place for the omelet station. all year. On Sundays, I operate the Normally I see about 60 guests, but omelet action station. Usually I don't there will be nearly 400 today. I start come in this early, but chef Ball asked prep for six times the normal quantity if I wanted to make baguettes and and hope it will be enough. ciabatta for this special brunch. I couldn't refuse. 8:30 a.m. Prep is going well. I stock up on 3:15 a.m. mushrooms and spinach, as those We are the only ones here and, for ingredients are more popular. Other once, the kitchen is calm and quiet. ingredients I keep in my mobile We start the bread immediately. “pantry” are onions, bell peppers, The poolish starter for the ciabatta tomatoes, ham, bacon, sausage, was done yesterday and has been Swiss and cheddar. fermenting overnight. We start to one of each ingredient they ask for on prepare the dough. 9:00 a.m. a small plate and set it aside so that I can remember what they wanted. The I gather my ingredients into 10 6-inch 7:00 a.m. rush lasts over 4 hours. pans and pack gallon plastic bags The rest of the brigade has arrived. with backup ingredients to hold in The kitchen is buzzing and full of 2:00 p.m. ice-filled bus tubs underneath my energy. For Easter, we implement At this point, I must be a good 200 station. I like to pour the eggs from several action stations such as cheese, omelets in. Fortunately, the only thing silver water pitchers, as it is easier garde manger, sushi and saute. that I’ve run out of is my reminder than using a ladle. I fill a few pitchers, plates, but a smooth transition as well as two 8-quart cambros for 7:30 a.m. to ramekins solves that problem. backup. I don't want to have to call for Sometimes the omelets take a little Our dough has undergone ingredients on the fly while I am in the longer than guests may be used to, the appropriate middle of service. fermentation and because I cook the ingredients in folding required for 10:30 a.m. layers according to its appropriate flavor and gluten cook time. The guests don’t mind I man the omelet station and take a development. waiting, and some thank me for second to mentally prepare for the Chef Ball takes browning the mushrooms and onions rush. My friend Brad is on saute and charge of the before I add tomatoes and spinach. does a funny dance when he sees ciabatta but A tiny dollop of whipped butter at the lets me help me looking at him. I laugh and feel end makes a nice finish. him shape the more at ease. baguettes. He 4:00 p.m. 11:30 a.m. works quickly and The day finishes smoothly and produces wonderful It's busy, but thankfully it is controlled everyone has cleaned and broken shaped loaves. It’s chaos. I use five portable gas burners down their stations. Word has it that my first time and and can make 2½ omelets at one the chef is having all the cooks over I struggle with it. time. I take orders from people to his place to celebrate a job well However, when I finish standing in line so that they can come done and to take care of the leftovers. it looks like bread. back when their omelet is ready. I put It should be fun. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 classical v. modern poulet saute a la bourguignonne classical v. modern

oulet Saute a la Bourguignonne sauce Walker considers this dish Bourguignonne, originated in the Burgundy fundamental for students to P which means, “as region of France, which master. “Escoffier is the one prepared in burgundy,” is is also well known for its cookbook chefs must know. a lesser-known French dish wines, coq au vin dishes, Everything he explains makes than its counterpart boeuf a escargot, poultry, beef and complete sense, and it is an la bourguignonne. However, soft cheese. It is a quick important book for students it is a recipe worth mastering. pan sauce using wine rather to be grounded in when When J. Kevin Walker, than stock as the base. It cooking. You must do the CMC, who developed the features onions, mushrooms fundamentals well before you modern recipe for this dish, and bacon to build flavor do the other stuff,” he says. was preparing for American and as a garnish. The recipe Though this dish may be an Culinary Federation’s (ACF) for this dish is found in easier-to-follow Escoffier Certified Master Chef (CMC) Auguste Escoffier’s “The recipe, it still requires a exam he prepared this dish Complete Guide to Modern strong grasp of several several times. This year it is Cooking.” In true Escoffier culinary techniques. “Being the required classical dish style, the recipe builds able to cook chicken properly for ACF’s Student Team on itself requiring a solid and to a perfect temperature Competition and the main understanding of cooking is a skill that people take for reason Walker, director of techniques and methods. food, service and clubhouse granted,” says Page. “If you operations at Grandfather Many of Escoffier’s recipes can’t saute a piece of chicken, Golf & Country Club, Linville, are open to interpretation, why would you be given an North Carolina, and ACF but this recipe is emersion circulator and gel Culinary Youth Team USA straightforward in listing all and be expected to perform top: J. Kevin Walker, CMC member Josh Page chose this the ingredients and cooking molecular gastronomy?” bottom: Josh Page dish for Classical V. Modern. techniques, says Page.

10 Sizzle Winter 14 classical modern Classical Poulet SautE A la Bourguignonne Contemporary Poulet SautE A la Bourguignonne 1. Chicken for this dish is first prepared on the stove top 1. Chicken, the main component, was recreated in a pave to develop a good sear and then finished in the oven. with mushroom mousseline and applewood bacon. 2. Pearl onions and mushrooms are the traditional 2. A croquette was made from leftover chicken legs, red garnish for this dish. 3. Sauteed spinach made with olive wine and tomato paste. 3. A sauteed crimini mushroom is a oil, shallots and fennel adds color to the dish. garnish along with sauteed Brussels sprout leaves. 4. Roasted cauliflower represents a side dish that would 4. Butternut squash pave made with cream and such be traditionally served family style with the chicken. seasonings as cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg. 5. Red 5. Herb fingerling potatoes boiled, then fried in the onions pickled in rice vinegar and jalapeno. 6. Pureed pan with shallots, rosemary and parsley. 6. The red broccoli adds color to the plate between the butternut wine sauce is thickened with a beurre manié. When squash and pave. 7. The sauce is made from left over complete, the sauce should coat the back of the spoon. braising liquid from the croquette. 8. Quenelle garlic puree completes the garnish. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern poulet saute a la bourguignonne classical Josh Page is 23 and has already judge J. Kevin Walker for career and working for established chicken. The trick is to cook it traveled across the country and advice and was offered a position chefs. “Walker is a great mentor,” on medium-high heat and resist back for cooking. Page started at The Vintage Club in Indian says Page. “He inspires and the urge to move it around the as a front of the house manager Wells, California, where Walker motivates you.” pan. Adding the ingredients at at a deli in his hometown of was executive chef. His latest appropriate times is also key. Boone, North Carolina. To competition endeavor landed Page decided to recreate the He found that in order not to learn more about back of the him a spot on ACF Culinary classical dish Poulet Saute a la burn the bacon but still get a house operations, he enrolled Youth Team USA and a line cook Bouguignonne for Classical V. good color on the vegetables, it in the culinary arts program at position back in North Carolina Modern to help other student is important to add the garnish Asheville-Buncombe Technical at the Grandfather Golf and competitors achieve their goals. vegetables right after searing Community College, Asheville, Country Club. the bacon. North Carolina. There he Poulet saute recipes are not became interested in culinary Page’s five-year goal is to open a complete meals. Classically, If students want to make competitions and joined the restaurant. “I am a big believer the dish is served in a crock changes to the dish, Page student team. In 2013, he was a in working on my dreams to with vegetable sides presented suggests changing the choice of member of the A-B Tech student make them a reality,” he says. family style, says Page. That is wine used to create the sauce. team that won ACF’s Southeast “I believe in being in control of why he included cauliflower and Much of the sauce’s flavor Region Team Championship in my situation. Having my own fingerling potatoes with his recipe. depends on the type of wine and Louisville, Kentucky. restaurant will allow that.” brand used, he says.  He practiced the dish twice. After that win, he mustered He is preparing for that challenge The most difficult technique the courage to ask competition through culinary competitions was getting a good sear on the

Classical Poulet mushrooms back to pan; cover 3 . Cool potatoes in cooking liquid 4 . Season to taste; remove from with lid; finish in 350°F oven over ice bath. Remove pan. Drain over paper towel Saute a la until chicken reaches internal potatoes from water; cool. Cut lined sheet pan. temperature of 155°F. in half lengthwise. Bourguignonne Roasted cauliflower 5 . Remove chicken and garnish; 4 . Heat medium-sized cast iron Yield: 4 servings Ingredients: keep warm. pan over medium heat. Add oil. Ingredients: ½ head cauliflower, trimmed 6 . Drain fat from pan; add crushed Place potatoes cut side down 1 oz. butter 1 oz. olive oil garlic; deglaze with wine; in pan; fry until potatoes are 4.5 oz. streaky bacon, Salt and pepper, as needed reduce by half. diced, blanched cooked through and browned Clarified butter, as needed 7 . Whisk in beurre manié. Adjust 8 pearl onions, peeled on cut side. seasoning as needed. Method: 3.5 oz. crimini mushrooms, 5 . Add shallots to pan; toss. Finish 1 . Toss cauliflower in olive oil, salt cleaned, quartered Herbed fingerling potatoes with herbs; season to taste. and pepper. Salt and pepper to taste Ingredients: 6 . Remove potatoes from pan; drain 2 . Heat medium-sized saute pan 1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces ½ gallon water over paper towel lined sheet pan. over medium-high heat; add 2 garlic cloves, crushed 8 oz. salt clarified butter. 7 oz. red wine 1 sachet, peppercorns, Sauteed spinach Ingredients: 3 . Place cauliflower in pan with cut 1 oz. butter, mixed with flour to form bay leaf, thyme 1 oz. olive oil beurre manié 15 fingerling potatoes side down. Cook in 350°F oven until Shallots, pinch 5 oz. flour 2 oz. olive oil tender. Remove, season to taste. ¼ oz. shallots, minced Fennel, pinch Method: Plating procedure: 1 sprig rosemary, minced 2 oz. spinach 1 . Heat large saute pan over 1 . Place 5 potatoes at 10 o’clock ¼ bunch parsley, minced Salt and pepper to taste medium-high heat. Add butter; in bowl. Salt and pepper to taste fry bacon with onions and Method: 2 . Place spinach to the right of mushrooms until browned. Method: 1 . Heat medium-sized saute pan potatoes. 2 . Remove bacon, onions and 1 . Add water, salt, sachet and over medium heat. 3 . Plate 3 cauliflower florets at 2 mushrooms; keep warm. potatoes to medium-sized pot. 2 . Add oil; sweat shallots and o’clock. 3 . Season chicken; saute in the 2 . Bring water to simmer; cook fennel until translucent. 4 . Place chicken and garnish in same pan until colored nicely. potatoes until 75 percent done, 3 . Add spinach; saute over front of vegetables. 4 . Add bacon, onions and approximately 8 minutes. medium-high heat. 5 . Place sauce in front of chicken.

12 Sizzle Winter 14 classical v. modern poulet saute a la bourguignonne modern J. Kevin Walker started cooking at he met many of his mentors. This also healthy and it makes everyone in the ways in order to utilize all parts of the age 12 and credits his grandmother encouraged him to take the 10-day kitchen better cooks,” he says. ingredient, which is an element from the classic recipe. for getting him started. “She was test in 2002. “I wanted to know if I Walker is inspired by classical ideas with a great cook,” he says. Since age could match up to the chefs I held in a twist. Though he has prepared this Even with many components, the 14, Walker held dishwasher and high regard and decided to test for the dish several times, this is the first time he plating for this dish is clean and prep-cook positions at various designation,” says Walker. has done a modern version. He decided simple. When Walker is plating a dish, restaurants. He wasn’t serious about As a judge for ACF competitions, to make the chicken element as a pave he remembers what mentor Ferdinand a culinary career until he started Walker has met several talented with porcini powder to show off the line Metz, CMC, said, “Always look to see a working at Arizona Biltmore in culinarians and brought them pattern created by the layered chicken as what you can take away from the plate Phoenix. There he learned about onboard at country clubs where he a focal point for the final plate. to make it better.” Doing something The Culinary Institute of America simply is much harder than building it has worked, including Cherokee To emphasize the mushroom and (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York, and up, Walker says. Town and Country Club in Atlanta bacon component of the classic decided to attend. and The Vintage Club. Many of the version, he incorporated them For him, the challenge with this It was at the CIA that Walker got a young cooks that worked for him have through the mousseline, pave, bacon- dish was finding the balance chance of a lifetime. In 1989, he was been successful competitors because mushroom ragout and the garnish. between keeping the integrity of put in charge of the kitchens and he believes in giving his employees He also prepared a butternut squash the ingredients while still creating a apprentices during the second ever the platform and opportunity to pave and roasted butternut squash contemporary look.  Certified Master Chef Exam where compete. “Competition is good, it is for sides. He prepared the squash two

Method: 2 oz. mirepoix Contemporary 1 . Heat olive oil in saute pan, add mushrooms; 2 T. tomato paste Poulet Saute a la saute until seared. Add red onions, thyme; 1 cup red wine 2 cups chicken stock continue to saute until cooked. Bourguignonne 1 bouquet garni sachet 2 . Deglaze pan with red wine; reduce sec. Yield: 8 servings Standard breading station Remove from heat; cool. Chicken for pave 3 . Clean thighs; remove excess fat and sinew. Method: 1 . In saucepan, season and sear chicken Ingredients: 4 . In food processor, combine chicken thighs legs; remove. 4 skinless chicken breasts with egg yolks and cream; season with salt 2 . Add mirepoix to saucepan; brown. Add 2 chicken tenderloins and pepper; blend. Add sauteed mushrooms 2 oz. porcini powder tomato paste and pincé. Deglaze with red and Italian parsley; fold in; reserve. 2 oz. Activia (Transglutaminase) wine; reduce sec. Add chicken stock; bring 8 slices applewood smoked bacon, 15-18 Assemble pave to a simmer. Add seared legs; cover. Place in slice thickness Ingredients: oven; braise until tender. Chicken for pave 3 . Remove legs from pot; pick meat. Strain Method: Mushroom mousseline braising liquid. Place in saucepan; reduce to 1 . Fabricate two chickens, removing skin; reserve Applewood bacon consistency. Combine braised meat and half thighs and legs. Method: the braising liquid; chill. 2 . Cut breast into long strips mimicking tenderloins. 1 . Line bottom of pave pan with bacon slices, 4 . Scoop chilled braised meat, mold into balls; 3 . Remove sinew from breast and covering completely. Sprinkle with some of the freeze. Once frozen, bread the balls; fry. tenderloins; reserve. 5 . Place croquettes in oven to heat through; porcini/Activa mixture. 4 . Combine porcini powder and Activia; reserve reserve for service. 2 . Toss chicken strips individually with porcini/ in cheesecloth sachet. Activia mixture, coating completely; layer 5 . Preheat water bath with immersion circulator Bacon-mushroom ragout into pan. to 65.55°C; line 6-x 9-x 2-inch pave pan with Ingredients: 3 . Fill remaining portion of pave pan with 3 oz. applewood smoked bacon, finely diced plastic wrap. mushroom mousseline. 6 oz. assorted wild mushrooms, finely diced Mushroom mousseline 4 . Wrap pan with plastic wrap several times. 1 t. thyme, chopped ¼ cup red wine Ingredients: Place in Cryovac bag; seal tightly. Braising liquid, as needed 2 T. olive oil 5 . Place bag in water bath; cook at 65.55°C for Salt and pepper to taste 8 oz. assorted wild mushrooms, sliced thick 90 minutes. Sherry vinegar to taste 2 oz. red onion, small diced 6 . Remove; chill in ice bath for 30 minutes. Place Method: ½ T. fresh thyme, chopped in cooler overnight. 1 . In hot saute pan, render bacon until crisp. Add 1 cup red wine 7 . For service, remove from mold, bottom up; Salt pepper mushrooms; saute. and to taste slice into 1½-inch x 3½-inch rectangles. 4 chicken thighs, skinned, deboned 2 . Add thyme and red wine, as needed; reduce 4 egg yolks Croquette to consistency. Add braising liquid as needed. 4 oz. cream Ingredients: Season with salt, pepper and sherry vinegar; 1 T. Italian parsley, chopped 4 chicken legs reserve for service.

14 Sizzle Winter 14 Pickling juice Ingredients: 1 cup water ½ cup rice vinegar 2½ oz. sugar ½ jalapeno, sliced 1 clove 1 t. mustard seeds Roasted butternut squash 6 . Cover with plastic and foil; bake at 350ºF for 1 t. black peppercorns 1 t. ginger Ingredients: 30-45 minutes, until tender. 1 butternut squash neck, reserve body 7 . When finished, remove plastic and foil. Place Method: 1 vanilla bean parchment paper over top, set half pan on 1 . In saucepot, combine water, vinegar, sugar 2 T. brown sugar top; weight down with number 10 can. Place in and jalapeno. ½ cup apple cider cooler; chill overnight. 2 . Create sachet with clove, mustard seed, Method: 8 . For service, turn out; cut 1½-inch x 1½-inch peppercorns and ginger. 3 . Combine sachet with liquids; bring to a boil. 1 . Remove neck of butternut squash, reserve squares. Heat in broiler. body. Cut squash neck into 8 slices, lengthwise. Pour over onions while hot. Place slices on half sheet tray. Silken broccoli puree Garnish sauce 2 . Scrape vanilla bean over slices; sprinkle with Ingredients: Ingredients: brown sugar; add cider. 1 head broccoli Reserved braising liquid 3 . Roast in 350ºF oven until tender. Remove; cool. 2 cups heavy cream Butter 4 . Slice in 1¼-inch x 3¼-inch rectangle. Score Salt and pepper to taste Butter as needed Method: out center leaving ¼-inch border; reserve Emulsify remaining braising liquid with butter; for service. Method: strain; reserve for service. 1 . Clean florets from broccoli stalk; reserve. Butternut squash pave Garnish Ingredients: 2 . Thinly slice stalk; combine with cream in Ingredients: 2 cups cream saucepot. Place over low heat; cook until stalk 1 Brussels sprout, leaves separated, sauteed ½ oz. ginger root, sliced is tender. 8 chanterelles, sauteed 8 garlic cloves, pureed, sauteed ½ t. cinnamon 3 . Blanch florets until soft in boiling salted water. 1 ∕8 t. allspice Refresh in ice water until cold. 1 Assemble the plate ∕8 t. nutmeg 1 4 . Combine broccoli cream and florets in 1 . On a diagonal, spoon broccoli puree ∕8 T. cardamom onto plate. 1 butternut squash, peeled blender. Puree on high until smooth; season 1 T. fresh sage, chopped with salt, pepper and butter; chill. 2 . Place chicken pave in middle of plate. Salt and pepper to taste 5 . Reheat for service. 3 . Place butternut squash pave in front of chicken pave at a diagonal. Method: Pickled red pearl onions 4 . Place roasted butternut squash slightly lower 1 . Line 1½-2-inch pan with parchment paper. Ingredients: than the chicken pave. Fill with bacon- 2 . Combine cream with ginger root, cinnamon, 24 red pearl onions, peeled mushroom ragout. allspice, nutmeg and cardamom; bring to a Pickling juice (instructions follow) 5 . Place croquette on top of ragout. boil; infuse. 6 . Place pickled red onions in front of ragout. 3 . Slice squash paper thin. Method: 7 . Quenelle garlic puree and place in front of 4 . In mixing bowl, combine infused cream, sage, 1 . Pour hot pickling juice over onions. Cover; pave. Surround plate with sauce. sliced squash; season with salt and pepper. keep at room temperature until cool. 8 . Garnish with sauteed Brussels sprout leaves 5 . Layer squash in half pan to make pave. 2 . Place in cooler overnight; reserve for service. and chanterelles.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 15

Start Spinning Your Network Web Before you leave culinary school, make sure you have made all the important connections you can. One of those could lead to a significant first job. // By Jody Shee

ews flash: The best jobs in the culinary world are never advertised. Every day, positions are found and filled through N connections. That means book learning and classroom instruction only partly determine your future success.

Having someone who will vouch for you is as important as your resume in landing that significant job. “You need someone of value to mediate that next connection that will help you in your career,” says Ronald Hayes, associate director, career services for The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York. He recently wrote the book “Creating Your Culinary Career,” (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2014). in Kansas City know I teach, and they call me and ask who I know who would be good,” he says.

“If we notice kids who are going to be rising stars, we talk about them and say, ‘This kid could be someone someday,’” he says. Unknown to his students, he constantly plays a chess game in his mind, trying to determine how and where he might use this one or that one in the future. Get to know your instructors. Show your best side, and act interested in what they do.

Look at your fellow students as future resources. Anyone who has Rico DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, as a teacher Hayes compares the necessity of early learns about networking with fellow Show interest, networking to mise en placing. “You students on the first day of class. He is a ask questions don’t start roasting stock at 6 p.m. It culinary instructor at Boston University should already be done.” School of Hospitality Administration “and make eye in Boston and executive chef at Union contact. You establish connections every time Oyster House, Boston. He immediately you meet someone—whether in school, breaks a classroom of 20 students into — Michael Garbin in a group activity, through social teams of four, tells them to take out their media or while participating in events. cell phones and type in each other’s “ Anything and anyone can be viewed contact information. with a future focus. In the lecture that follows, DiFronzo tells start at school them to look ahead and realize that in years to come, when they are looking for a Consider your teachers a first step. Some job, one of those team members could be of them are adjunct professors with full- the president of Marriott Corp. or some time positions away from the classroom. other large hospitality company and could That’s the case with Todd Walline, CEC, get them in the door for an interview with CCA, adjunct instructor in the hospitality a simple email or phone call. management and culinary education program at Johnson County Community When the executive chef position College, Overland Park, Kansas. He also suddenly opened up at Union is executive chef and director of food and Oyster House in 2012, DiFronzo beverage at Blue Hills Country Club, was in Erfurt, Germany, cheering Kansas City, Missouri. “Other club chefs on ACF Culinary Team USA at the

18 Sizzle Winter 14 introvert makeover Networking can be uncomfortable to introverts who lack the confidence to “work the room” during an event. If that’s you, consciously address that shy behavior by practicing shaking hands and introducing yourself, first to those you have no interest in working for, says Ronald Hayes, associate director, career services for The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York. “If you stumble and stutter, at least you’ve gotten the butterflies out, and you’re more prepared for the next one.”

Regional ACF conferences are a good place to practice networking, says Rico DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, executive chef, Union Oyster House, Boston. Take advantage of the open seating during breakfast and lunch.

Find a chef you don’t know and ask if anyone is sitting next to him. Then start a Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung community. “Be a go-to person who conversation simply by asking where he works. “Just muster a couple of words, (IKA). Several individuals outside the instructor knows is often available,” and once the conversation starts, you’ll be and inside the restaurant mentioned Walline says. included,” he says. Then exchange business cards and send a follow-up email afterwards. DiFronzo to the decision makers as the Foodservice distributors and other local right man for the job. Upon his return, Avoid the urge to spend your spare time at food purveyors sometimes conduct an event leaning against a wall checking your he soon had the job—a result of years trade shows and food events and look cellphone. “Break down your barriers. Open of connection making. to culinary students to help out. This yourself up. Be sociable. Be outgoing,” says Michael Garbin, CEC, AAC, executive chef at gives students the opportunity to make Union League Club of Chicago in Chicago. volunteer often contacts with product suppliers, learn “It’s not easy, but you have to do it. In this business, what sells a chef on an individual more in-depth information regarding Seek opportunities to volunteer through besides knowledge is personality.” those products and meet the chefs who your school, whether it be for charity attend, says Michael Garbin, CEC, AAC, events, culinary competitions or help executive chef at Union League Club of above: Ronald Hayes, associate with visiting-chef demos. This allows director, career services for The Chicago in Chicago. you to meet key people while displaying Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York, and author of the your skill level. “In a traditional business This type of networking could also pay book “Creating Your Culinary Career,” sense, you may talk about a project off later in your career as you are called (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2014). you’re working on, but with culinary, on to write special-event menus. If Photo by Phil Mansfield there’s a visual aspect,” says Walline. you’ve become familiar with specialty opposite left: Michael Garbin, CEC, “Others see how well you work and how products and suppliers, you can tap into AAC, executive chef at Union League Club of Chicago in Chicago. organized or disorganized you are. It them to source the right ingredients for the occasion. Thus, when you work opposite right: Rico DiFronzo, CEC, helps me as a chef to see that.” CCA, AAC, executive chef, Union a show like that, ask attending chefs Oyster House, Boston, and a culinary Culinary instructors frequently receive how they plan to use the products, instructor at Boston University School requests for student volunteers to Garbin says. The result is that you gain of Hospitality Administration in Boston. help with cooking demos around the knowledge and are engaging. Photo by Alan McPhee www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 19 five tips to stand out I’m looking for a job. Do you have on LinkedIn one available?’ You’re looking for a 1. Add your photo, and make sure connection and the chance to make a it reflects how you want others to think of you professionally. For memorable initial contact to start to example, dress in chef whites if build a relationship. It’s what you can you want to be a chef. do for the guest, not what the guest can 2. Fill out your profile completely. If you don’t have much experience, do for you.” show your passion in other ways. 3. Be generous. Endorse others’ At the event, be intentional with your skills and write recommendations. They often will respond by doing behavior. “Be honest, sincere and keep the same for you. your hands out of your pocket,” Garbin 4. Join LinkedIn groups and be active says. “Have a clean, pressed chef’s in them. 5. When sending LinkedIn invites, coat and hat. If you smoke, do not avoid the generic invite language. reek of cigarette smoke, and do not go Make the invitation personal and complimentary. for a smoke break. Show interest, ask Source: Kathleen Flinn, a Seattle- questions and make eye contact.” based certified culinary professional and best-selling cookbook author. Her most recent book is “Burnt Toast get business cards Makes You Sing Good” (Penguin Group USA/Viking Press, 2014). Don’t underestimate the importance Many people of business cards—both receiving and giving them. If you’re at an event and you make the meet a chef, strike up a conversation, and mistake of before you walk away, ask the chef for “ a business card and say, “I’d like to give thinking of social you one,” DiFronzo says. networking as a After you’ve walked away from the chef, way to promote make pertinent notes on the back of themselves, but the card, such as if the chef told you to stop by the restaurant some time or if the ideal way you discussed connecting on Facebook. to use it is to Then friend the chef on Facebook. Make promote others. notes on the card and treat it like gold, DiFronzo says.

— Kathleen Flinn If you have a business card to give out, it moves you up a notch in the chef’s mind, Get to know the major players of the “ he adds. It’s OK for the card to simply event. If there’s a roster of participants, have your contact information and title of look through it and decide who you culinary student with a school or ACF logo. want to meet. Look at their coats and address them by name, says Hayes. To go along with your business card, “Don’t go up to someone and say, ‘Hi, have a short quip about yourself ready

20 Sizzle Winter 14 NExt in case the chef you meet asks to know a resumes, says Kathleen Flinn, a Seattle- issue pop-up little about you. Explain your specialty or based certified culinary professional and restaurants area of interest and hand out your card, best-selling cookbook author. To potential Hayes says. employers, LinkedIn is like looking at book reviews on Amazon.com. plan a follow-up Therefore you want to be sure to amass strategy recommendations and endorsements. When you return from an event, use your Endorsements are a crowd-sourced collected business cards to continue the collection of approvals regarding your conversation. Keep your network active, skills. Recommendations are reviews Hayes says. Even the brightest individuals others take the time to write about you. forget people they have met after two or There are acceptable and unacceptable three months. Send a keeping-in-touch ways to go about getting these, and it all starts with having the right mindset. On email now and then. Send LinkedIn LinkedIn, the best way to network is to requests. Send links to interesting be generous, Flinn says. articles you read that you think the other individual might be interested in. “Many people make the mistake of thinking of social networking as a way to Be a go-to If you’re especially interested in a chef you promote themselves, but the ideal way to meet, send an email asking if you can drop person who use it is to promote others,” Flinn says. by the restaurant and view the kitchen or “That’s how you create a sense of good the instructor do a stage. “That tenacity is not pestering “ will. Then people will promote you, too.” knows is often but dogged determination,” Walline says. Flinn sets aside a few minutes each week to available. Your follow-up email could also include write honest, thoughtful recommendations an offer to work any future events the — Todd Walline for people on LinkedIn. In turn, LinkedIn chef might have, giving the assurance emails them and says someone wrote “ that you will be there, Garbin says. them a recommendation. The individuals In the 22 years he has worked at Union nearly always email her and thank her. League Club, many students have She responds to each thank-you email opposite: Kathleen Flinn, a Seattle- volunteered to work events. “This has by suggesting the individual write a recommendation for her whenever it’s based certified culinary professional led to students doing their internship and best-selling cookbook author. convenient. About half follow through. “Go here, becoming a part-time employee Photo by Roger Steen in with the understanding that not everyone or even a full-time employee upon above: Todd Walline, CEC, CCA, will. You can’t hold it against them. Go in graduation,” he says. executive chef and director of food with a generous heart,” she says.  and beverage for Blue Hills Country Club, Kansas City, Missouri, and use social sites Jody Shee, an Olathe, Kansas-based adjunct instructor in the hospitality freelance writer and editor, has more management and culinary Of all the social networking sites, LinkedIn than 20 years of food-writing experience education program at Johnson and writes the blog www.sheefood.com. is the most critical for those starting County Community College, their career. It’s the default reservoir of Overland Park, Kansas. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 21 The Science of Controlled Cooking

Sous vide, combined with conventional cooking techniques, allows chefs to provide nutritional and flavorful food.

By Rob Benes The sous-vide method yields results that are nearly impossible to achieve by conventional cooking. The process involves cooking food in vacuum-sealed plastic bags in a water bath for a long time at a precise temperature. This improves shelf life, enhances taste, maintains nutrition and preserves food safety.

“Sous vide does not replace conventional cooking, but goes hand in hand,” says Certified Master Chef Derin Moore, hospitality consultant, Performance Foodservice Group, Oakwood, Georgia. “The fundamentals of conventional cooking techniques, paired with the understanding of flavor development, are needed to appreciate the full benefits of the method.”

In the mid-1960s, sous vide was used as an industrial food preservation method by American and French engineers. However, its origin is traced back to the late-18th century. Sous vide was adopted by Georges Pralus in 1974 for his restaurant Troisgros in Roanne, France. He discovered that when foie gras was cooked in this manner, it kept its original appearance, did not lose excess amounts of fat and had a better texture. This preparation helps reduce waste and errors. “Sous vide takes the guess work out of cooking, because you’re cooking a protein or vegetable or starch to a certain temperature and then finishing it when an order is placed,” says Kyle Rourke, executive chef, Red Star Tavern, Portland, Oregon.

Consistency is the No. 1 benefit of sous vide. “When done properly, you will achieve the same end result every time no matter what you cook,” says Derrick Roberts, executive chef, StripSteak at the Fontainebleau Hotel, Miami Beach, Florida.

For example, when salmon is sous vide, you are able to hone in on a desired texture by determining stable temperature and cook time. Salmon prepared by conventional methods will Another pioneer in sous vide is have a different end-result each time, as Bruno Goussault. As chief scientist a 2°F difference in cooking temperature for Alexandria, Virginia-based food will dramatically change its texture. manufacturer Cuisine Solutions, Goussault developed the parameters of cooking times and temperatures for disadvantages of various foods. controlled cooking There are few disadvantages to sous- advantages of vide cooking. However, when planning controlled cooking to prepare foods by this method, one must understand the critical nature of Unlike conventional cooking, with all time/temperature relationships and its time and temperature variables, sous their effect on proteins. above: Sous-vide thermal circulator. vide is an exact science. If the water Courtesy of PolyScience bath is set at 142.7°F, it will hold within Proper steps for sous-vide preparation opposite left: Corned veal tongue a half degree of that temperature for must be followed to ensure that with horseradish and new potatoes an unlimited amount of time. “Sous harmful organisms that could cause cooked at 152.6°F for 7 hours. vide gives you a more controlled way illness do not grow in the vacuum- Courtesy of Derin Moore. of cooking and allows for portion sealed environment, explains Renee opposite right: Derin Moore, CMC, hospitality consultant, control,” says Sean Brasel, co-owner/ Zonka, RD, CEC, CHE, MBA, dean Performance Foodservice Group, executive chef, Meat Market, Miami of Kendall College School of Culinary Oakwood, Georgia. Beach, Florida. Arts in Chicago.

24 Sizzle Winter 14 It’s important to follow a hazard practice makes analysis and critical control points perfect (HACCP) plan in sous-vide cooking. Even though not every state requires To experiment with sous vide, Rourke restaurants to write and submit a suggests working with eggs. An HACCP plan, each restaurant should egg does not need to be placed in a take the responsibility to write one to vacuum-sealed bag because of its shell. ensure guests are served safe food. Whole eggs can be put in a 145°F water bath for 45 minutes. Each degree Among the disadvantages of sous vide up or down changes the texture of the is longer cook times. It only takes a egg yolk. few minutes to grill a piece of Wagyu beef. Place that same piece of beef in He prepoaches a case of eggs for brunch a vacuum-sealed bag with aromatics, service, cools them in an ice bath, butter, olive oil and salt and it can removes and holds in the cooler for take up to 45 minutes to an hour to service. At service, he rethermalizes

sous-vide benefits ƒƒ Ensures food cooks at a precise temperature for consistent results. ƒƒ Preserves the nutritional value of food during cooking. ƒƒ Retains food’s color and texture. ƒƒ Keeps proteins from overcooking. ƒƒ Increases the shelf life of food through preservation/ pasteurization. ƒƒ Speeds up proper execution of complicated dishes during busy service. ƒƒ Frees up valuable stove and oven space. Source: Derin Moore, CMC, hospitality consultant, Performance Foodservice Group.

cook.“You need to plan your day if the eggs in warm water for 30 seconds, you want to sous vide,” says Ryan which results in a perfectly poached egg McCaskey, chef/owner, Arcadia, that retains its initial shape. Chicago. “Also, if you plan to sous vide different items in one day, you have to Going beyond eggs and moving to proteins change the water bath temperature and means more advanced preparation. Don’t let the temps regulate.” just drop a chicken breast into a bag, www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 25 just put a protein into a bag, Cryovac it and sous vide it, all you’ll end up with is poached, flavorless meat. Sous vide is not the first step in cooking.”

McCaskey at Arcadia cures pork belly for one day, rinses off the cure, sears the belly and then puts it in a bag with seasoned pork broth. After a 36-hour sous vide, he removes it from the bag and reserves it for different recipes.

Roberts also prepares steak sous vide. vacuum-seal and place in a water bath and The proper way to cook a steak is to expect to achieve a good result. first let the protein come to room temperature before cooking. However, StripSteak’s Roberts prepares a boned- if you’re doing a large amount of out half-chicken sous vide. He seasons covers, it’s challenging to have a large chicken with salt and pepper, places amount of meat warming up for 2 to 3 it in a bag with compound butter and hours on racks. cooks it in a 152°F water bath for 45 minutes to an hour. The bag rests at Instead, he uses a bath of clarified butter room temperature for 30 minutes with herbs and garlic in a circulator set and then in the cooler for 30 minutes. at 120°F. He takes steaks straight from Finally, it is set in an ice bath for service. the cooler and submerges them into the When ordered, he rewarms the bag in butter bath. The higher temperature of a 140°F water bath, then removes the the bath causes the protein to cook just chicken and sears it on a plancha until under rare in 30 to 40 minutes. From the the skin becomes crispy. butter bath, he places the steaks on a rack, seasons and grills to order over wood. “When you reheat, you don’t want to go above the initial temperature since Rourke at Red Star Tavern puts a pork you only want to rewarm rather than chop in a bag with butter and fresh

above: A Kendall College student start to recook,” says Roberts. “The thyme, vacuum seals and cooks it in a finishes beef fillets in the college’s chicken is already cooked to the perfect 145°F water bath for 6 hours. He probes sous-vide kitchen. temperature so all the blood is gone the chop for the correct temperature Courtesy of Kendall College, Chicago from the leg, but the breast is still nice and then cools it down in an ice bath. opposite left: PolyScience sous-vide and juicy.” For service, he removes a chop from the circulators in Kendall College’s sous- bag, marks it on the grill, transfers it to vide kitchen. Brasel at Meat Market makes short a pan, glazes and places it in the oven Courtesy of Kendall College ribs, which he cures for 24 hours, hot opposite right: Book cover, for 6 minutes. smokes and sears before putting them excerpted from "Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide" by Thomas in a bag. “We want to put the best Vegetables lose nutrients and flavor Keller. (Artisan Books) Copyright © product in the bag before we start the when blanched in water or steamed, but 2008. Photo by Deborah Jones circulation process,” he says. “If you sous vide retains their flavor. McCaskey

26 Sizzle Winter 14 NExt issue nontraditional fish

prepares sous-vide carrot puree by Schools should meet with the local sous-vide resources placing carrots in a bag with carrot juice health department and elicit their ƒƒ “Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide,” by Thomas Keller (Artisan in a 185°F water bath for 45 minutes. support, as well as learn about federal Books) Copyright © 2008. This “No water has been introduced, no laws that apply to the respective state. book explains why the sous-vide evaporation has occurred and there’s When getting the kitchen ready for technique yields results that other culinary methods do not. Available no other outside factors that can alter, sous-vide education, schools need to ask at Amazon. dilute or influence the puree,” he says, local inspectors about zoning for their ƒƒ How-to videos demonstrated by “You couldn’t achieve this level of area. For other types of support, schools “MasterChef” contestant Sharone Hakman are available on equipment intense flavor through conventional should consider talking with a company brand Sous-Vide Supreme’s website, cooking methods.” that provides sous-vide equipment. the official sous-vide purveyor for the James Beard Foundation Fruit, fish, shellfish, cheese and desserts “The key is to have proper sanitation, as (www.sousvidesupreme.com). ƒ well as time and temperature control,” ƒ Kendall College offers the online can be prepared sous vide, too. training programs Fundamentals of Zonka says. “The kitchen needs to be the Sous-Vide Technique and Sous- outfitted to meet the standards of the Vide HACCP Safety Training sous-vide training health department.” (www.kendall.edu). ƒƒ American Culinary Federation’s Kendall College in Chicago debuted events series often host sous-vide its sous-vide training kitchen in 2012 Performance Foodservice’s Moore presentations and demonstrations because it recognized the continued suggests a budget for proper financing to conducted by top chefs ensure the correct equipment is purchased, (www.acfchefs.org). growth of the method in foodservice ƒƒ The International Culinary Center’s operations. The program is one course including chilling equipment. In addition Tech’N Stuff blog has several posts in two parts: basics of sous vide and to hiring an instructor who has interest on sous vide by Dave Arnold, in sous vide, “mandatory continuing director of culinary technology, The sous-vide HACCP certification. French Culinary Institute, New York, education from subject experts should be a which includes temperature charts If a culinary school wants to create requirement for instructors,” he says.  and photos (www.cookingissues. a sous-vide program, it needs to com/primers/sous-vide). Rob Benes, a Chicago-based journalist, consider space and an instructor who has 11 years of experience writing about has interest in learning the science chefs, food, wine and spirits for trade, behind the preparation. educational and consumer publications. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 Chefs with diverse culinary backgrounds and business savvy can find the home/work balance they seek in foodservice sales.

By Suzanne Hall pportunities abound for chefs ready to trade in their toques for tablets and join the ranks of the O foodservice distribution system. Throughout the country, foodservice distributors hire trained and experienced culinarians to present products to restaurants, hotels, schools and other venues. Some work directly in sales. Others, like Patrick Mitchell, CEC, AAC, support the sales team and its customers with training and problem-solving assistance.

As an executive chef/culinary advisor for Ben E. Keith Co., a foodservice distributor based in Fort Worth, Texas, Mitchell works with customers and sales reps on everyday foodservice operations, ranging from recipe development to labor and food costing.

Mitchell, a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, joined Ben E. Keith six years ago after nearly 30 years in the foodservice industry. He spent 23 years working as an executive chef and food and beverage director for Marriott Hotels based in Bethesda, Maryland.

The foodservice distribution industry is big business and is not for the novice. Education and kitchen know-how are key elements for success in this competitive field. Job rewards include personal fulfilment, employee benefits and often better hours than in a kitchen environment. Those in sales have the opportunity to control their own destiny with competitive compensation tied to success. Compensation may take the form of 100 percent commission, salary or a mix of the two. In-house training programs are available to help those new to the distribution industry learn about product lines and tools for successful selling. Foodservice sales paper towels. Their customers expect representatives are not them to know the difference in flavor simply order takers. and applications of such products as They’re marketers, hickory smoked or applewood smoked consultants and bacon. Customers also look to them sometimes for advice on problems like staffing helping hands. and sanitation. “I keep my chef coat Both Gangler and Schwartz came into and a knife foodservice sales from the kitchen. in the car. Gangler is a graduate of the culinary If someone program at The Art Institute of Dallas in I’m calling on Dallas. She worked as a cook at the Texas is slammed, I’m ready Motor Speedway in Fort Worth for a to help out,” says Rachel year and a half and was chef de tournant Gangler, a district sales for a year at Caneel Bay Resort in St. representative for Ben E. Keith. John, U.S. Virgin Islands. She joined Ben Hands-on help is the exception and not E. Keith nearly eight years ago when the norm. However, helping by solving someone suggested she might be good in problems, sourcing and explaining sales. She decided to interview and was products, making menu suggestions and hired for the job. arranging an urgent delivery is. This is Schwartz worked in the kitchen for all in a day’s work that may last 10 hours five years before he decided to attend and sometimes requires six days a week. culinary school at Paul Smith’s College “The pressure is real. It’s just different near Saranac Lake, New York. “It was from in a restaurant,” Gangler says. When the best decision I’ve ever made,” he a customer forgets to order something, says. He spent another 25 years in a supply truck doesn’t arrive on time or restaurants and hotels as executive there is a sales error and the wrong item chef and food and beverage manager is delivered, sales reps have to fix it. before joining Sysco two and a half years ago. He made the decision to “It’s like in the kitchen. You’re putting switch to sales so he could spend more out little fires all the time,” says Charles time with his family. Schwartz, a marketing associate with Houston, Texas-based Sysco Corp. Chefs looking to make the change from cooking to sales need more than skills needed to culinary experience and training. Neil get the joB Doherty, who studied hotel, motel and restaurant management at Galway-Mayo Sales reps must know a lot about a Institute of Technology in Galway, wide range of products. Generally, Ireland, is Sysco’s senior director of they sell everything from produce to culinary development. He is responsible

30 Sizzle Winter 14 for interviewing potential sales reps To Mitchell, flexibility is important. and maintains that the most important “Reps have to deliver their message or attribute for chefs moving into sales is a suggestions in a positive way, even if the good business sense. customer disagrees,” he says.

Gangler agrees. She recommends that Success in foodservice sales is as much culinary students take as many management organization as it is persuasion. Most and business courses as possible. reps work local sales territories out of their homes, visiting the office or opposite: This dish of Kona-chili Good computer skills, social media crusted swordfish with smoked warehouse one or more times a week as savvy and the ability to communicate white chocolate, pink peppercorn needed to solve customers’ problems beurre blanc and pickled well are other attributes Doherty seeks. or attend a meeting or training session. Texas Hill Country peaches was He leans toward those with a diverse They set their own schedules, which are developed by Neil Doherty. culinary background that allows them Photo courtesy of Sysco often interrupted by one of those “fires.” to relate to customers in all areas of the above: Neil Doherty is executive corporate chef/senior director of industry and have enough experience “If you are not fairly well organized, culinary development for Sysco to create a level of trust with customers. you’re dead in the water,” Schwartz says. Corp., based in Houston, Texas. “Chefs like to talk to chefs,” he says. “You always have to stay ahead.” Photo courtesy of Sysco www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31 the ability to control your own time, holidays at home and, in general, spend most nights at home. Some sales reps occasionally travel to food shows with their customers, but overnight travel is rare.

For those who still want to cook, there are opportunities. Gangler, who says she does occasionally miss the Friday night rush of being in a restaurant, participates in local culinary competitions.

Mitchell competes around the world and Ben E. Keith is supportive of his competition activities.

For chefs who still want to wear their three traits of a good Gangler adds, “Getting organized is at toque while working in the foodservice sales person first a matter of trial and error. Time distribution industry, there are positions Empathy management and self-discipline are available like Doherty’s and Mitchell’s. Empathy is not sympathy. It is the essential.” Such traits help reps get ahead. With both a culinary and a sales ability to identify with customers, background, Doherty was a natural feel what they are feeling and make them feel respected. room to grow to join the Sysco team in Houston 15 years ago. Among his responsibilities Focus Successful sales representatives have A person with focus is internally is interacting with the 198 chefs who several opportunities to move up. They driven to accomplish goals and work in Sysco’s business review and can stay attentive to one topic. can become culinary specialists who Focused individuals are more development department throughout assist customers with purchasing and demanding of themselves than the country. “At the end of the day, I’d of other people, and they are using a particular product line, like have to say my job is sales,” he says. But self-motivated. They are able seafood, produce or center-of-the-plate to organize themselves and rather than write orders, he works in recognize what needs to be done proteins. These specialists also help the product selection and ideation, which is in order to achieve their goals. rest of the sales team convey information the process of generating and developing Optimism to customers. new ideas. He also helps customers, A salesperson with a healthy especially multi-units and large chains, amount of optimism can be Higher positions include district sales described as someone who is with menu development and new manager, regional sales manager, vice slow to learn helplessness. This concepts. His cooking time is limited, person has persistence—a trait president of sales and president of one that is critical in the sales world. but it does include test-kitchen events of the distributor’s operating companies with customers. Source: Canadian Professional around the country. Some sales people Sales Association, www.cpsa.com. find their way to buyer positions. typical workweek Advantages of a foodservice Mitchell supports the nearly 100 sales distributor chef position include reps who work in the Dallas/Fort

32 Sizzle Winter 14 NExt issue help cake decorator wanted A recent listing for a sales representative at a major foodservice distributor included the following criteria.

Preferred Requirements: ƒƒ Bachelor’s degree in business, sales, marketing, hospitality or culinary arts ƒƒ One year of outside foodservice sales experience ƒƒ Previous experience with our company ƒƒ Restaurant management/chef experience

Competencies: To be successful in this position, the individual performing the duties must successfully demonstrate the following competencies: ƒƒ Building trust Worth branch of Ben E. Keith, which ƒƒ Building customer loyalty also includes Abilene, Texas, two hours ƒƒ Follow-up ƒ to the west. His job is a balancing act as ƒ Sales ability/persuasiveness ƒƒ Managing work he tries to meet the needs of all the reps ƒƒ Adaptability and their customers, both in person and ƒƒ Communication on the telephone. Those needs include creating recipes, helping solve logistical problems, advising on kitchen layouts and many other activities.

Mitchell works out of his home. He visits the warehouse two or three times a week warehouse. He also cooks for and holds monthly sales meetings in opposite: Patrick Mitchell, CEC, fundraising events in which his employer each city where he not only introduces AAC, executive chef/culinary participates. His workweek generally the company’s products, but offers advisor for Ben E. Keith Co. based runs Monday through Friday. “I enjoy in Fort Worth, Texas, had the generic food lessons like the difference my job,” he says. “But I would not have opportunity to work with culinary between extra virgin and other varieties been qualified for it 30 years ago.” His students last year in Croatia. of olive oil. Mitchell also meets with Photo courtesy of Ben E. Keith experience and training are what allow brokers and manufacturers’ reps to top: Charles Schwartz (on left), him to do it successfully.  evaluate products and is Ben E. Keith’s marketing associate for Houston, Texas-based Sysco Corp., liaison with local chef associations. Suzanne Hall has been writing about meeting on-site with a customer. chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her Photo courtesy of Sysco Mitchell admits he doesn’t spend a home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for more bottom: Rachel Gangler is than 25 years. lot of time cooking. He does, though, district sales representative for hold training sessions for sales reps in Ben E. Keith Co. his small test kitchen at the company’s Photo courtesy of Ben E. Keith www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 by degrees paupiettes de sole au vin blanc by degrees

Paupiettes de Sole au vin Blanc By Paul Sottile

ole au vin Blanc is a classic fish Fabricating fish is an important skill that dish that is popular in France, has several benefits for a culinarian. It S particularly in Normandy. It uses provides the opportunity to inspect the flatfish fillets, which can be stuffed with whole fish, which allows tighter quality vegetables or forcemeats, then rolled control. It is also more cost effective to into paupiettes and braised or baked in fabricate fish than to purchase it pre- wine or stock. Paupiettes are one of the portioned and the bones may be used for Paul Sottile is dean of academic most used presentations for this dish, stock to create soups and sauces. affairs, The Chef’s Academy at Harrison because of the ability to add a filling and College, Morrisville, North Carolina. Traditionally, sole is the white fish used for its elegant appearance. to prepare this dish. In the U.S., several Despite apprehension from some, the types of flounder are marketed under such accompanying velouté sauce is quite names as lemon sole and grey sole and simple to prepare. As one of the five are incorrectly sold as the highly prized original mother sauces, it is critical for white flatfish. True sole is only found in students to master velouté−a white sauce European waters.  that is thickened with a white roux. It is a great foundation sauce and can be flavored Step 1 in numerous ways. To fillet the fish, place the belly on cutting board. Make two cuts on each side behind the head. Cut on each side of the spine from head to tail down to the bones.

Paupiettes de Sole au vin Blanc with roasted potatoes and sauteed Brussels sprouts. Photos by Paul Sottile

34 Sizzle Winter 14 Ingredients Step 2 Step 5 2 gray sole With knife at a slight angle, make smooth In saucepan, evenly arrange paupiettes ½ oz. white wine cuts along the bones towards outer fin until partially submerged in fish stock or broth. Fish stock the fillet separates. Cut away fin section; Cover pan; cook at 160–180°F until just 4 oz. fish veloute (recipe below) repeat on the other side. Turn fish around; barely done, about 5-7 minutes. Do not boil. 1 oz. egg yolk repeat process on belly. The fillets on this 2 oz. heavy cream side will be much smaller. 2 t. butter Salt White pepper ½ lemon fish veloute Ingredients ½ oz. clarified butter ½ oz. carrots, onions and celery, diced small ½ oz. flour 5 oz. fish stock ½ bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 2-3 whole peppercorns Step 3 2-3 parsley stems To remove skin from fillet, place fish skin- Salt to taste side down; make a small slice at an angle Step 6 towards small end of fillet. Holding small Method In another saucepan, strain as much In small saucepan, heat clarified butter over end, gently push knife under the flesh above poaching liquid from pan as needed; add a low heat. Add carrots, onion and celery; skin to remove fillet. Make sure not to slice little veloute. Reduce by half or until it coats sweat. Do not brown the vegetables. Add into the fillet. the back of a spoon. In separate bowl beat flour; stir to incorporate. Cook for a few egg yolk with heavy cream. Add a little of minutes until roux is blond. While stirring, the hot liquid to mixture while beating to slowly add cool fish stock; bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer. Add bay leaf, thyme, raise temperature. Gradually add warm egg/ peppercorns and parsley. Continue to simmer cream mixture into reduced hot liquid. until reduces by 1 ounce. Skim off and discard any skin that forms on top. If additional stock is needed, adjust. Season with salt and pepper; strain through mesh strainer.

Equipment Fillet or boning knife Cutting board 2 saucepans, 1 with lid Tongs Step 4 Wire whip Lay fillet flat, skin side up. Roll from larger Spoon toward smaller end, allowing the more Step 7 Large mixing bowl attractive side to face outward. To finish sauce for plating, add small pieces Mesh strainer of cold butter; swirl to incorporate. Season Serving plate finished sauce with salt, white pepper and Helpful hints lemon as needed. Plate paupiettes with your ƒƒ A properly filleted flatfish should have choice of vegetable and starch. four fillets, two on the back and two on the belly. ƒƒ Save the fish bones to make fish stock. ƒƒ If fresh thyme is not on hand for veloute sauce, substitute a pinch of dried thyme. ƒƒ If sole or flounder are not available, substitute with other types of white fish or salmon.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 international flavors thailand international flavors

Thailand By Marla Simon, chef instructor at The Art Institute of Colorado, Denver, and Metropolitan State University of Denver, and a MBA student at Johnson & Wales University in Denver.

In the early 2000s, I moved to California, where I was exposed to authentic Thai cuisine in Los Angeles’ Thai Town. This elevated my appreciation for the cuisine even further. As a lover of American Thai food, I never imagined there could be a possibility that I would love authentic Thai food even more.

During a food-styling shoot in Los Angeles, I learned about a weeklong authentic Thai cooking class taught by renowned Thai chef Roongfa Sringam. The classes took place on Koh Samui, an island off the east coast of Thailand, at Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts (SITCA). I knew I had to attend this program and added it y first experience eating Thai to my mental bucket list. After several food is still a vivid memory. years of daydreaming about this trip, M At age 12, a friend took me I finally signed up for the classes to a Thai restaurant in the Chicago and embarked on an epic culinary suburb where I grew up. We shared journey to include Bangkok, Northern vegetarian pad thai and spring rolls. Thailand and Vietnam. The fresh, bright flavors and complex heat of those Thai dishes immediately After two long flights, my trip to the stole my heart. “land of smiles” began in Thailand’s

36 Sizzle Winter 14 capitol Bangkok. At first glance, experience. Hosted by Taste of Thailand Bangkok appears to be like any other Food Tours, it allowed me to see this metropolitan city. The fast pace, crowds, “village of love” through the eyes noise, extreme heat and traffic were of a local. Tour guide and company intimidating. And once I began to cofounder Puu led our group of 10 scratch the surface, I experienced a through a series of interesting locations, complete sensory overload. The sights stopping along the way to educate us and smells were unlike anything I’ve and offer samples. experienced. I could happily walk the Throughout the day, we visited an streets for hours and shop in the funky assortment of unique vendors selling markets, watch the locals’ commune on curry puffs, fresh-made curry pastes, fish sidewalks and eat street food. What was cakes, Thai desserts made from coconut top: Peanut relish with originally planned as a stopover became and exotic Thai fruits, herbal/medicinal grilled prawns. one of the most thrilling parts of my trip. Courtesy of Nahm, Bangkok drinks, traditional roast duck, fried bottom: Spicy pork salad with The walking food tour through the bananas, and lemon grass and papaya roast rice powder. Bangrak neighborhood was an exciting salads. The tour ended with a sit-down Photo by Roongfa Sringam www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 37 international flavors thailand

meal at Than Ying, a restaurant known with braised mackerel, deep-fried quail for its royal Thai cuisine. eggs and fresh vegetables; coconut and turmeric curry of blue-swimmer crab While in Bangkok, I was fortunate to with calamansi orange; soft-shell crab land a reservation at Nahm, the only stir-fried with chilies, holy basil and Michelin-starred restaurant in Thailand. green peppercorns; and coconut ash I ordered the tasting menu, which pudding with poached bananas. allowed me to pick one item from each section. The meal began with an The multi-course meal at Nahm is one of my most memorable dining amuse-bouche of tamarind pork ma experiences. The courses were light, hor (galloping horses), served with but bold with the perfect amount of pineapple and followed by a selection heat. Executive chef David Thompson of canapes. The rest of the courses creates dishes in such a way that it were served “Thai style”—everything seems possible to individually taste placed on the table at once. However, I left: Coconut and turmeric curry the aromatics and such ingredients as was instructed by the server to eat the of blue swimmer crab. kaffir lime and Thai basil in each bite. A middle: Sweet Thai wafers. courses one at a time. green mango palate cleanser was served right: Lemon grass salad with before dessert, and dinner ended with prawns, crispy squid and pork. Quenelles of steamed jasmine rice were a selection of Thai petit fours. After opposite: Roongfa Sringam served tableside along with lobster this dinner, I felt inspired and ready to teaching a Thai cooking class at and mangosteen salad; clear soup of Samui Institute of Thai Culinary immerse myself in Thai cuisine. roast duck with Thai basil and young Arts, Koh Samui. Photo by Marla Simon coconut; fresh tamarind relish with I arrived on the island of Koh Samui, Photos on top left courtesy of Nahm minced prawns, pork and chilies served and was greeted at SITCA by Roongfa

38 Sizzle Winter 14 Sringam and her devoted staff. On the The first menu item waskrung gaeng regional flavors first morning of my weeklong intensive ped daeng (red curry paste). Sringam Thai cuisine varies between the Southern, Central, Northeastern and Northern regions. professional training, I was told that I was showed me two types of mortar and Southern Thailand the only chef signed up for this course. pestles we would use in the kitchen. The food from this region tends to be Sringam typically teaches four chefs at She explained that the set used to crush spicier. Coconut is heavily used, and the abundance of fresh seafood makes it an a time on a monthly basis. Additionally, ingredients for curry pastes was made easy protein choice. Jasmine is the staple her staff hosts multiple cooking classes of heavy stone, while the other set is for rice variety. The curriculum at SITCA covers for tourists throughout the day. a wide variety of Thai food, from all four salads and is made of a lighter material– regions—but the majority of the recipes typically wood or clay. were based on traditional Southern Thai Professional chefs from all over the cuisine. David Thompson, executive chef at world come to learn from Sringam, Red curry paste is made with two types Nahm, also relies heavily on the cuisine of Southern Thailand for his menu. who has won awards for her fruit and of red chilies, garlic, shallots, kaffir vegetable carvings and has been a Central Thailand lime peel, lemon grass, galangal, black The curries of this region are less spicy than guest chef at The Culinary Institute peppercorn and shrimp paste. Seven those of the South. The artfully prepared of America, Hyde Park, New York. I royal cuisine of Thailand is historically a part small red Thai chilies were on the platter of Central Thailand cuisine. Jasmine rice was thrilled to learn that I would be of ingredients to make the curry paste. is preferred over sticky rice. Typically, the receiving one-on-one training from her. curries and noodles of this region influence When Sringam asked me how many Thai restaurants in the U.S. While Bangkok The first day began with a lesson on chilies I wanted to use in my dish, I is in Central Thailand, the cuisine varies, and it is possible to find cuisines from all regions. Thai ingredients such as lemon grass, told her to use all of them. She laughed Northeastern Thailand galangal, betel leaves, coconut cream, and said two would be enough for me. Laos and Cambodia influence the simple crispy eggplant, dried shrimp, chilies and I convinced her to let me add a third and often spicy food from this area. Sticky rice is the staple. Som tam (green papaya different types of basil. Sringam explained chili, despite her reservations. Using salad) is the region's most famous dish. that several of the ingredients used in Thai the mortar and pestle, she pounded Northern Thailand cooking also have medicinal benefits. the ingredients into a paste. Sringam Laos and Myanmar (Burma) cuisine influence the food in this region, which uses the least sugar. Sticky rice is preferred. Traditionally, food is served on a khantoke (low, round table) to diners who sit on the floor. Larb or laap, a minced meat salad seasoned with fish sauce, lime, chilies and toasted rice powder, is popular.

Interesting fact Chopsticks are not native to Thailand and are used only when eating noodles—both of which were brought to Thailand by the Chinese. Spoons are the preferred eating utensil in Thailand.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 international flavors thailand

staff shopped for ingredients at the local market to prepare the day’s mise en place. I prepared salads, soups, appetizers, entrees, noodles, curries and desserts. I lost count after 70 dishes. I was given extra instruction in the art of Thai fruit and vegetable carving. At the end of the week, I felt stressed the importance of making curry confident in my wok skills and Sringam paste from scratch. Good curry paste commended me on my mortar-and- should be made daily and is what sets pestle abilities. My tolerance for spicy the best Thai chefs apart. Many Thai food had increased, and I was able to restaurants rely on store-bought paste. handle seven chilies in my curry pastes. This is unacceptable to Sringam. Sad to leave, the hospitable Sringam sent me on my way with gifts, and I was She watched as I used the mortar and on to my next adventure. pestle for the first time and joked that I would get better as the week progressed. After I left Koh Samui, I spent time in On the first day, we whipped through six Northern Thailand and Vietnam. Now dishes to include red curry chicken with that I’m back home, my former favorite potatoes; tom yum soup with prawns; Thai restaurants seem lackluster and crispy golden cups with fried fish and uninspiring. I can tell that the bland herb salad; two types of pad thai; and a curries served at most Thai restaurants top left: Yellow rice with chicken. are made with premade pastes, and the Photo by Roongfa Sringam steamed Thai pancake with mung bean ingredients are nowhere near as fresh middle left: Papaya fruit carving by and coconut. Marla Simon. or flavorful as those found in Thailand. Photo by Roongfa Sringam My instruction continued in the same Someday, I hope to return to the bottom left: Crispy golden cups with fashion for the rest of the week. I spent “land of smiles.” I’m thankful for this fried fish and herb salad. up to 10 hours a day in the kitchen, experience and can’t wait to pass on my Photo by Roongfa Sringam rotating between the cutting board,  middle: Clear soup of roast duck. new skills to my students. right: Ma hor. mortar and pestle, and wok stations. Photos on top right courtesy of Nahm Every morning before I arrived, the

40 Sizzle Winter 14 the interview katie button the interview

Katie Button By Ethel Hammer

National Institutes of Health (U.S.) and with Ferran Adrià at elBulli, Johnny Karolinska Institute, Solna, Sweden, Iuzzini at Jean-Georges and Rene 2007; volunteer for Habitat for Humanity, Redzepi at Noma. In September 2014, Zambia, summer 2007; executive chef/ partner, Cúrate, Asheville, 2011-present; her TV series “The World’s Best Chefs” stage, Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark, premiered in Spain. She’s as much 2012; executive chef/partner, Nightbell, the star of Lisa Abend’s book “The Asheville, 2014-present. Sorcerer’s Apprentices: A Season in selected awards and the Kitchen at Ferran Adrià’s elBulli” accomplishments as the great chef himself. She has been Semifinalist, James Beard’s Rising Star featured in Glamour wearing Jimmy Chef of the Year, 2012, 2013, finalist, 2014; winner, “Top New Artist of the Choo boots, funky jeans and other Next Generation,” Robb Report Culinary slightly ghoulish clothes. However, Masters Competition, 2012; People’s seven years ago she was poised to do Best New Chef of the Southeast, Food & Wine, 2012, 2013, 2014; Cúrate listed on doctorate research on human aging. “Twelve Most Outstanding Restaurants,” GQ, 2013; host, “The World’s Best In 2007, she started a graduate study born Chefs,” first aired in Spain on Nat Geo at École Normale Supérieure in France Conway, South Carolina People, September 2014. because “It gave me an excuse to live in resides Paris,” she confesses. Asheville, North Carolina s it talent, feminine charm, With little money to eat out, she learned the trade dedication, smarts, and/or an bought cookbooks and taught herself server, Café Atlantico, Washington, D.C., I appealing willingness to ask for help 2007; Stage, front of the house, elBulli, to make pastry. She would roll it out that has catapulted Katie Button so high Roches, Spain, 2007; intern Jean- on the floor because her apartment Georges, New York, 2008; line cook, The so fast? Who is Katie Button, anyway, was so cramped. Then, before starting Bazaar, Los Angeles, 2009; seven-month and why is she the only woman in a culinary internship, elBulli, 2009. her doctorate studies, she was building recent GQ article listing Ferran Adrià’s houses in Zambia with Habitat for career path highlights culinary children? Master’s degree, biomedical engineering, Humanity and crisis hit. “I saw how École Centrale, Paris, 2007; received Button’s culinary education started happy the children were. They had joint fellowship in neuroscience, when she waitressed and later staged nothing. I had everything. But I wasn’t

42 Sizzle Winter 14 happy. I had no mission in life,” she elBulli. Then, after garnering culinary says. “I was just continuing on.” experience at Jean-Georges in New York, she returned to elBulli as a kitchen That experience changed her life. She intern. Impressed by Adrià’s ability to renounced her graduate fellowship, break barriers in the food world, Button and suddenly she went from being a learned quickly. Not afraid of what she promising scientist to a waitress working didn’t know, she soared past barriers. As for José Andrés in Washington, D.C. soon as her seven-month internship was Determined to cook, she caught the eye up, she left elBulli and started planning of Felix Meana, a Catalan from Roches, her first restaurant. at Andres’ Cafe Atlantico, who had Located in Asheville, Cúrate offers worked with Ferran Adrià at elBulli. mostly traditional Spanish tapas using “Felix says it was love at first sight, but local, sustainable ingredients. Her menu I was more wary. I’d been warned in item Esqueixade de Montana is a twist on advance that he was a heartbreaker,” a Catalonia salt cod dish made with raw she says. Now they are married and trout, fresh tomatoes, black olives, sweet expecting their first child. A girl. onion and lemon vinaigrette. Things are top left: Esqueixada de Montaña “Felix reads people well and knows what a little wilder at Button’s new Asheville from Cúrate. restaurant Nightbell, where stylish Photo by Christopher Shane they want before they do,” she says. “I get deviled eggs confound expectations top right: Boneless chicken wings an idea and run with it. He grounds me. as she stuffs smoked trout gravlux into from Nightbell. We are two parts of a whole.” Photo by Evan Sung hard-boiled eggshells. Her root beer float bottom: Gambas al Ajillo from Cúrate. But meeting Felix was more than a surprises guests with its vanilla bourbon Photo by Peter Frank Edwards budding love story. He helped her coolant, icy on the outside and creamy Photos courtesy of Cúrate and get a front-of-the-house internship at on the inside. Nightbell www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 the interview katie button

I went to elBullie initially as a waitstaff intern. I told everybody I wanted to be in the kitchen so people could see my work ethic and be my guide. When I returned to elBulli after acquiring pastry experience in New York at Jean-Georges, I think I succeeded because I learn very quickly. I didn’t know Spanish, so every morning before work and every evening after work I worked on my Spanish using Rosetta Stone. At elBullie, I worked with great people, who were also doing stages. Some were sous chefs, others had their own restaurants and most had a culinary degree. However, I asked the right questions and made few mistakes.

What was it like hosting “The World’s Best Chefs” with such chefs as Massimo Bottura, Michel What kind of little girl were Bras and Andoni Aduriz? you and how does this tie into KB: I tried to learn something at each your success? place. Initially, I was quiet and concerned KB: I was a quiet perfectionist and always with myself, but after the first three or four a little girl, not a tomboy. My other big trait places, I became confident. The scary is I’m a people pleaser. That sums me up part was not the work, but being around in a nutshell. I always try to avoid pain for chefs I admire so much. It would have other people and I am very concerned been easier had they been movie stars about their feelings. I enjoy being a chef or celebrities. Alex Atala, chef at D.O.M. so much because I’m pleasing people on in Sao Paulo, is involved in bringing a daily basis through food. indigenous ingredients from the Amazon into fine dining and showed me how to I started out to be an engineer. I found look at ingredients. He took priprioca, an the work fascinating, but ultimately it indigenous root that is used in perfumes, was not for me. When I was in school, chemical and biological engineering was and discussed with a Brazilian perfumer declared one of the most difficult majors, how to use it as a culinary aromatic. This so I picked it. In my personal life, I was resulted in his banana ravioli with lime- shy. However, throughout my life I have priprioca gel skin. always sought challenges. Massimo Butturo of Osteria Francescana The reason things have gone so well for in Modena, Italy, taught me to take time to me is because I sought opportunities. I wonder and reflect in order to be creative. wanted to work at the best restaurants in I now set aside a day or several hours the world. When I worked at José Andrés’ in the day to think or do research. He Cafe Atlantico as a server, I said to myself, also taught me to notice flavor profiles. “OK, let me do this and I’ll figure out the When he made a risotto with just rice and cooking.” That’s where I met Felix, who Parmigiano-Reggiano, the rice’s perfect knew Ferran Adrià, and that helped a lot. acidity came right out of the cheese.

44 Sizzle Winter 14 Jordi Roca of El Cellar de Can Roca in confidence and self awareness to persist. who were most Catalonia taught me to be whimsical He taught me to be patient. admired on “The and have fun, to surprise diners and World’s Best Chefsˮ? José Andrés brings a new dimension to to try to eliminate the stuffiness in fine People would invariably mention dining by having chefs serve the food at Michel Bras and Michel Guérard, the dining. We made red candy apples using his MiniBar in Washington, D.C., where two French chefs on the show. Michel isomalt—a type of stable sugar—a heat there are only 12 seats with two turns at Bras’ Le Gargouillou—a garden on a lamp and a sugar pump connected to a plate—created a revolution in the way the most each night. José has become long plastic line. It was like using glass- food and vegetables are plated. It is a good friend and helped Felix and me blowing equipment to create candy one of the most influential dishes in the open Cúrate. history of food. It does something to apples, which we then filled with cream you to hear him say, “I am not a chef. I and other goodies. What is your best advice to work like my mother who’s a cook.” He new culinarians? is so humble. Everyone admires Michel Antonio Aduriz from Mugariz in San KB: Without going to culinary school and Guérard, a leader in the invention Sebastian, Spain, is always testing of nouvelle cuisine, whose cuisine going so fast, I had to learn not to be afraid boundaries. He showed me how he paints minceur taught people that food can or embarrassed by things I didn’t know. So be light and flavorful and doesn’t have a potato with edible clay so it looks like a many young chefs are nervous and feel to be heavy to be delicious. stone. He explained how he works with they need to know everything. And this molds in a controlled way. For instance, hinders them. It is also important to ask opposite top left: Pimientos de he covered an apple with this white people to help you. As a woman, I never Piquillo Con Queso de Cabra, spongy mold, topped it with vodka and felt that men and women were treated Gambas al Ajillo and Espinacas a then let me try it. differently, but wanted to be noticed for my la Catalana from Cúrate. work ethic. Still, while many women attend Photo by Peter Frank Edwards I made carrot tartare with Swiss chef culinary schools, fewer of them are chefs opposite bottom left: Nightbell. Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park and chef de cuisine. Women have trouble Photo by Evan Sung in New York. He shared how he struggled deciding between family and work. One of opposite right: Inside Cúrate. in the beginning when the restaurant the best ways to do both is to have your Photo by Peter Frank Edwards was often empty and they didn’t know if clockwise from left above: own business.  anyone would come through the doors. Peanut butter cake, root beer float He explained how it takes time for people Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and and black forest from Nightbell. to figure it out and how it takes a lot of cartoonist based in Chicago. Photos by Evan Sung www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the quiz winter 2014 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

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1. What are apprentice Steve Boresz career plans? 6. Chefs looking to make the change from 11. What is the name of Thailand’s only a. Executive chef cooking to sales need what? Michelin-starred restaurant? b. Banquet chef a. Organization skills a. Nahm c. Baker b. Social media skills b. SITCA d. Sous chef c. Communication skills c. Sala Thai d. All of the above d. Than Ying 2. What are the three classic garnishes for Poulet Saute a la Bourguignonne? 7. Which of the following is not typical of a 12. Sous vide is also known as what type of a. Mushrooms, pearl onions and bacon foodservice distributor chef’s workload? cooking? b. Butternut squash, Brussels sprouts and a. Putting out “little fires” a. Slow cooking broccoli b. A lot of cooking b. Conventional cooking c. Mushrooms, broccoli and butternut squash c. Visiting customers c. Water cooking d. Pearl onions, mushrooms and Brussels d. Solving sales errors d. Controlled cooking sprouts 8. If sole is unavailable for Paupiettes de Sole au 13. The ous-vides method dates back to what 3. What is the presentation method for the main vin Blanc, what fish is a good substitute? time period? ingredient in the modern version of Poulet a. Anchovy a. 1960s Saute a la Bourguignonne? b. Bass b. 1974 a. Paté c. Smelt c. 18th century b. Paupiette d. Flounder d. 1995 c. Pave d. Omelet 9. Sole au vin Blanc is a popular dish from what 14. Katie Button was featured in aGQ article as French region? which famous chef’s “culinary child”? 4. When at an event, which of the following a. Burgundy a. Jose Andres should you not do if you are trying to network b. Normandy b. Ferran Adriá with hiring chefs? c. Corsica c. Michel Bras a. Get business cards from the chefs you meet d. Brittany d. Johnny Iuzzini b. Give out your business card c. Stand against the wall and look at your 10. Where did Marla Simon’s extensive 15. What is the typical fare for Katie Button’s cellphone weeklong cooking class take place? restaurant Cúrate? d. Strike up conversations with chefs near you a. Central Thailand a. Traditional Spanish tapas b. Northern Thailand b. Edgy desserts 5. Where is the first place culinary students c. Koh Samui c. Root beer floats should start networking? d. Bangkok d. Nouvelle cuisine a. At events b. In the classroom c. At restaurants d. On LinkedIn Last Bite baltimore last bite Baltimore Wondering where to eat in Charm City? Who better to ask than some of the city’s most respected chefs. Check out their dining suggestions. outstanding family dining korean roving menu meats Petit Louis Bistro comfort food Charleston Clementine 4800 Roland Ave. Jong Kak Restaurant 1000 Lancaster St. 5402 Harford Road (410) 366-9393 18 W. 20th St. (410) 332-7373 (410) 444-1497 petitlouis.com (410) 837-5231 charlestonrestaurant.com Tues.-Fri.: 11:30 a.m. - 2p.m. Mon.-Sat.: 5:30-10 p.m. clementinebaltimore.com Mon.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-4 a.m. Sun.: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Courses: 3/$79; 5/$103 Tues.-Thurs.: 5-9 p.m. Rice dishes: $9.95-$13.95 Dinner: Nightly from 5 p.m. Weekly menu: $91 Fri. & Sat.: 8:30 a.m.-10 p.m. BBQ combo for 2: $44.95 Lunch prix fixe: $29 Cheese selection: $8 each Sun.: 8:30 a.m.-9 p.m. BBQ combo for 4: $89.95 A la carte: $8-$27 Brunch: $3.50-$13 This is a favorite spot This is some of the best Dinner: $13-$25 This is my favorite for chefs after we get food in Baltimore. The Charcuterie plates: $14, $20 restaurant in off the line because service is impeccable. Baltimore. Outside it’s good Korean You pick your own Headed by Winston of the good food and comfort food and is courses with wine Blick and his good service, it is a open late. Everything service, and the menu charcuterie master, great place to take from the Korean changes weekly, so James “Killer” Wilson, the family. barbeque beef to the every time I dine, I can try something the restaurant offers –Julian Marucci, executive kimchi is delicious. some of the most new. Choosing from chef, Cinghiale and Pazo –Chris Becker, chief outstanding cured the tableside cheese operations officer/executive cart for dessert is the and smoked meats in chef, Fleet Street Kitchen Baltimore. The curing perfect end to any room is on display so special occasion meal. you can see all the –Brigitte Bledsoe, smoked meats and corporate executive chef, fish doing their thing. Miss Shirley’s Café –Shirlé Hale-Koslowski, chef/owner, Four Corners Cuisine—A Personal Chef Service

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