Index 2018

1/5th Royal Welch Fusiliers 110, 114 Aguja Poincenot 1st Battalion Manchester Regiment 107 Whisky Time 313 1st Gurkha Rifles 111 Aguja Rafael Juárez 1st Royal Berkshire Regiment 110 Los Millenials 313 2nd Battalion Hampshire Regiment 114 Aguja St Exupery 320 2nd Battalion Highland Light Infantry 106 Aguja Val Blois 2nd Battalion Rifle Brigade 110 La Torcida 313, 314 2nd Battalion Royal Scots 106 Ahmad, Yeop 216–7 4th Battalion Black Watch 107 Ahobamba valley 304 5th Battalion Oxford & Bucks Light Infantry 110 Aiguille d’Argentière 242 5th Gurkha Rifles 108, 109 240, 241, 242 8th Battalion King’s Royal Rifles 110 East Ridge Integral 243 9th Battalion Sherwood Foresters 110 Aiguille du Grépon 376 9th Royal Warwickshire 110 Aiguille du Jardin 12, 243 11th Battalion London Regiment 114 West Pillar Direct 11 14th Royal Warwickshire Regiment 112 Aiguille du Moine 233, 235 28th Chasseurs Alpins 107 Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent 239 11, 367, 368 A Airy, George 353 Abadi, Sajad Ali 99 Ak-su 283 Abaitua 263 Aksu valley 283 Achi 108, 109 Ala Dag range 376 Adamello 126 Albert, Kurt 362 Adams, John 241 Risk and Freedom: Record of Road Safety Alborz 99 Regulation 162 Alcocer, Cristopher 312 Adamski, Janusz Adam 266 Aleta de Tiburón 313 Adam Smith, Janet 178 Alexander the Great 38 Adams Reilly, Col 243 Alexandra Supernova 282, 285 Adams, Ruth 394 Alhuina gorge 292 Aden 385 Allahabad 377 Adriatic Sea 118, 125 Allan, Sandy 250, 276, 384 Adventure Scientists 159 Allaucawanka (Allachuanca) 294–5 Aemmer, Rudolph 234 Allen, John 422 Afanasiev, Viktor 275 Allen, Rick 240, 241, 262, 276 Afghanistan 40 Allers, Leon 379 Agassiz, Louis 156 All or Nothing 253 Aguja Chilena 309 Allwein, Dr Eugen 189 Aguja Desconocida 313 Almaraz, Guillermo 310 Aguja Flor de Pupusa 309 Alone on the Wall, book 342 Provi­dencia 310 Alpenkorps 122 Aguja Guillaumet 314, 320 Alpine Group 30, 31 Amy-Vidailhet 312 Alpine Club vii, viii, xi, 29, 30, 31, 105, 106, 107, Disfrute la Vida 312 113, 156, 161, 188, 206, 219, 222, 225, 226, 227–9, Pilar del Quinto Sol 312 230, 232, 233, 235, 259, 318, 352, 355, 382 Plata o Plomo 312 Alpine Club Library 213, 386, 428 Aguja Iñaki Coussirat Alpine Club of Pakistan 337 San Percutori 309 Alpine Club Photo Library viii Aguja Intihuasi 309 Alpine Journal viii, 105, 107, 132, 143, 178, 179, Aguja Janajman 206, 228, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 346, 443 Wash’n’go 309 Alpini 118, 122, 124 Aguja Julio Altamirano 309 Alpinist 178, 179 Aguja Mermoz 312, 314 117, 174, 219, 224, 225, 227, 233, 239 Jardines Japoneses 312 Alvarez, Al 178 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 453

Alvey, Carl 19 review 331 Alzamora, Lucas 311 Arughat Bazar 151 Ama Dablam 340, 395 Ascent 355 review 333 American Alpine Journal 58 Ascent of John Tyndall (The) Amery, Leo S vii, 112 review 352 Ammann, Jean 348 Ashburner, John Night Naked 438 obituary 375 Among the Summer Snows Askole 43, 82, 85 review 361 Asperity 62 Amorós, Consuelo 304 Asquith, Herbert 113 A Mountaineer’s Life Assam 356 review 335 1950 earthquake 152 Ampleforth College 387 Association of British Members of the Swiss Anasazi 343 Alpine Club 385 Anderegg, Jacob 222 Astorga, Chantel 66, 68, 69, 70, 257 Andermatten, Franz 222 At-Bashi range 281, 285 Anderson, Dave 280 Atherton, John 443 Anderson, Lloyd 379 Aubers Ridge 167 Ang Nima Sherpa 264 Auer, Hansjörg 431 An Introduction to the Birds of Malaya 213 Aurelius, Marcus 95 Annapurna 262, 351, 420 260, 308 Annapurna Base Camp 150 Austro-Hungarian empire 118 Annapurna III 362 Ayres, Harry 394 25, 180, 318 Anthoine, Mo 347, 348 B Anti-Atlas 334 Babanov, Valery 275 Antonio ‘Sevi’ Gómez Bohórquez Babolin, Mara 280 article: ‘Peru 2017’ 286 Bachelard, Gaston 191 Anzac Cove 108 Badal Peak 273, 275 Aonach Dubh Badriashvili, Archil 269 Trapeze 250 Badwal, Gajendra 322 Aoraki Mt Cook 315–6 Badwal, Surendra 322 Appalachian Club 355 Baghdad 114 Aravis 15 Baillie, Rusty 400 Arbuthnot, Lt G A 105, 115 Balicki Denjongpa, Anna 196 Archer Hirst, Thomas 353 Ballard, Tom 279 Ardang 325 Ball, Dave 439 Arelovich, Lisandro 311 Ball, John 433, 435 Arête des Bouquetins 246 Baltoro 278 Arganglas 334 Baltoro 79, 80, 336, 337 Argan La 258 Baluchistan 96 Argentière 12 Banco de Bosques 308 Arjuna 3–10, 253, 254, 255 Band, George 199, 320, 395, 443 Gandiva 9 Band, Susan 443 Arjuna South 3, 253, 323 Baneh (Pistacia atlantica) 98 Arkaitz Ibarra, Vasques 310 Banerjee, Argha 322 Arman Sar 279 Bangor University 140 Army Chaplain Service 106 Barker, Jack 303–304 Army Service Corps 114 Barnaj I 253, 256, 259 Arnold, Dani 244, 278 Barnard, Michael 250 Arosio, Titio 298 Baró, Oriol 287, 292 Artists of the Alpine Club (The) 445 Bartholomew, Doug 250 Art of Freedom Barun valley 395 454 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Bass, Malcolm 432 Bevan, D L 376 article: ‘The Mind Has Mountains’ 131 Beyul Dremojong 196 Bates, Bob 343 Bhaktapur 149 Bath University 163 Bhatia, Sonali 258 Batian 400 Bhatti, Col Abdul Jabbar 267 Battle of Caporetto 120 Bhote, Samden 269 Battye, Maj H M 105, 109 Bielby, Mark 325 Battye, Maj Legh Richmond 109 Bielecki, Adam 262, 277 Battye, Richmond Moffat 109 Bierling, Billi 272, 399 Batura 278 Bietschhorn 233 Batura glacier 135 Bihar-Nepal 1934 earthquake 152 Bau, Alessandro 247 Billon, Leo 246 Bauer, Paul 189, 200, 207, 211 Biner, Joseph 444 Baumgartner, Ruedi 370 Biner, Viktor 233 Bazman 97 Bingham, Hiram 305 Beaven, Bill 394 Bin Laden, Osama 42 Beckey, Fred 58, 60 Bintley, George 412 Cascade Alpine Guide 381 Bird, Maj L W 110 Challenge of the North Cascades 379 Birkbeck, John 433, 435 Climber’s Guide to the Cascades and Olympics of Birnie, Eugene St J 210 Washington 381 Biswas, Dr K 214 Mountains of North America (The) 381 Biven, Peter 401 Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 381 Black Watch 112 obituary 378 Blixen, Karen 397 Range of 381 Blodig, Karl 11–2, 18 Beckey, Helmy 379 Boardman, Pete 333 Belleville, Max 134 Boardman Tasker Award 180, 183 Bellò, Tarcisio 280 Bodet, Stéphanie 240 Benet, Romano 263 Boesam 321 Bengal Cavalry 109 Bonamore, Virgilio 123 Ben Hope 250 Bonatti-Vaucher 246 Blue River 250 Bonatti, Walter 80 Turf Factor 250 Bond, Megan 379, 382 Bennen, Johann Joseph 223 Bonhomme, Paul 245 114, 249, 250 Bonington, Chris 333, 391, 413, 421 Optimist’s Arete 251 Bonington, Helen 334 Berg, Alik 290–2 Bonington, Wendy 333, 334 Berg, Bengt 205, 211 Bonney, Rev T G 435 Berge, Ola 48 Bonniot, Max 246, 247 Berg, Felix 262 Borchers, Heinz 274 Bérhault, Patrick 245 Borkoldoy range 281, 326 Berlin 126 Bosch, Andres 278 Bern 169 Boswell, Greg 248, 250, 338 Bernard Meldrum, John 345 Botor, Jaroslaw 277 Bernasconi, Matteo 298 Boudhanath 149 Bernays, David 158 Boyle, Alan 438 Bernese Oberland 223 Spirits of the Dolomites 433, 437 Bernet, Jean 234 56 Berry, W K A 38 Breevoort, Margaret 226 Bersaglieri 123 Breithorn 171 Bertheau, Therese 48 Breitwangflue 244 Berwald, Olaf 358 Bremer-Kamp, Cherie 193, 199, 200, 201 Bessot, Aurélien 312 Living on the Edge 191 Beta Block Super 244 Brenner, Julius 189 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 455

Brenva Spur 222 C Bressard, Christophe 244 Cairngorms 250 Brezovjak, David 285 Calabuig, Diana 287 Briggs, Ben 316 Caldwell, Tommy Briggs, Dave 419 Push (The) 438 Bright, Miles 319 Camasa, Yjegual 288–9 Britannia hut 385 Cambridge 385 British Antarctic Survey 400, 417 Cambridge University Club 376 55, 380 Canterbury University Tramping Club 394 British Mountaineering Council vii, 29, 30, 182, Cape Helles 108, 109 285, 399, 418, 419, 422 Caporetto 124, 125 British Psychological Society 132 Caprez, Nina 240 British Stauning Alps Expedition 319 Capusan, Vlad 312 Britten, Benjamin 404 Cararach, Roger 295, 296 Broad Peak 276, 331 Cardell, Maria 283 Broda, Fips 58 Carey, Mark Brower, David 365 article: ‘Lessons from the Andes’ 154 Brown, Hamish 391, 392 Carfrae, Capt C F K 1, 110 Brown, Joe 199, 362, 365, 391, 395, 407 Carlyle, Thomas 353, 354 Brown, Les 420, 421 Carnic Alps 118, 120, 121, 126 Bruce, Lt Col C G 108, 109 Carn Mor Dearg 249, 250 Carpathians 118 Bruchez, Vivian 239 Carratt, Steve 279, 322 Brunken, Lance-Corporal 122 Carrington, 30 Bryant, Dan 395 Carr, Rachel 324 Buachaille Etive Mòr 248 Carter, Jimmy 381 Dingle 250 Cartwright, Jules 30, 339 Holy Grail (The) 250 Cascades 380, 381 Orphan (The) 251 Casella, Mario 351 Buchan, John 113, 178 Casey, Richard 214 Greenmantle 113 Cassin Ridge 68 Mr Standfast 113 Castañeda, Koky 296, 298 113 Thirty-Nine Steps (The) Castle Peak 256 Buckingham, Guy 131, 136, 144 Catarata de Gocta 286 Buckle, Derek 259, 323 118 Buckley, Nigel 355, 442 Cavaro, August 287 Budhi Gandaki valley 149, 150, 152 Cavassa, Diego 310 Buffet, Charlie 350 Cave, George 93, 279, 322 Bukkehøe 50 article: ‘Half a Route in Shimshal’ 86 Bullock, Nick 338 Cawood, A H 220 Bullock Workman, Fanny 178 Central Alps of the Dauphiny (The), book 369 Burbridge, Charlie 432 Central Karakoram National Park 82 Burgener, A 226 Cerro 34 Leguas 311 Burgun, Jean 20–28, 318 Cerro Adela Sur 312 Burke, Bill 269 Cerro Chaltén 313 Burke, Chris 262 Cerro Colorado 308 Burke Khang 268 Cerro de los Caranchos 311 Burke, Mick 333, 401 Cerro Horqueta 311 Burma 211 Cerro Kishtwar 253, 254 Burnley 115 Cerro Pastos Largos 310 Burns, Cameron M 382 Cerro Pollone Burns, John D 366 Maracaibo 312 Butler, Richard 308 Cerro San Lorenzo 308 Bygdin 45, 48 Cerro Solo 456 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

French Connection 311 Cima Piccolo 244 Los Gringos No Comen Llajua 311 Cima Undici 119 Cerro Torre 73, 320, 362 Cima Uno 119 Cerro Zanskar 260 Cime di Lavaredo group 244 Cesen, Aleš 3, 253 Civetta 247 Chacraraju 339 Clark, Bev 401, 407 Chacraraju Este 289, 290 Clarke, Charlie 376 Chakdor Ri Clark-Lowes, Danny 386 Treasure of Zanskar 259 Classics Routes in the Écrins Chaltén massif 311 review 369 El Calafate 308 Cleare, John 402, 411, 444 Chambers, Mark 325 Clifford, Adrian 13, 31, 33, 156, 159, 161, 220, 222, obituary 383 223, 233 Climber & Rambler 414 Chamoux, Benoît 349 Climbers’ Club 29, 418 Champéry 171 Climbers (The) 335, 364 Champion, Sir Harry 211 Climb magazine 249 Changabang 332 Clogwyn Du’r Arddu 375 Chang-Ho, Kim 81 Clouet, Aymeric 295–6 Changi prison 213 Clough, Ian 333 Chañi 309 Club Alpin Français 107 Chapursan valley 321 Coast Range 55–8 Charakusa 279 Cobbler (The) Charakusa valley 254, 275 Punter’s Crack 250 Chardonnet glacier 241 Cohen, Geoff 80, 346 Charles Marriott archive 443 Coire na Ciste Charlet, Jean 234 Rogue’s Rib 250 Charlet-Straton, Mary Isabella 234 Cojup valley 158 Charterhouse 209 Col 12, 243 Chase, Brian 375 Col de la Grand Rocheuse 12 Chasen, Frederick 212 Col de Lana 120 Chaupiwanka (Chaupihuanca) 293–4 Col de la Pilatte 223 Chenab river 3 Col des Aravis 245 Chiantar glacier 280 Col du Berard 161 Chilas 42, 43 Col du Géant 155 Chimanimani 400 Coles, Rebecca 33, 324 China 381 Colgrove, J B 220 Chinese Mountaineering Association 264 Collie, Norman 116 Chin, Jimmy 280 Collins, Michael 358 Chitral 37 Collister, Rob Chomolhari 206 Days to Remember 438 Cho Oyu 262, 269, 331 Colton, Nick 324, 362 Choppal, Ang 38 Community Action Nepal 152, 347, 348 Chorley, Lord Roger 444 Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix 228 Christchurch 20 Concordia 79 Chulu West 269, 270, 271 Conefrey, Mick 341 Church Door Buttress Conlon, Clay 279, 322 Lost Arrow (The) 250 Constable Point 319 Churchill, Winston 38 Constant, Sébastien 369 Cicerone Press 414 Conterno, Nehuen 300 Cima Grande 244 Conti, Roberto 293 Cima Ovest 244 Conway, Martin 187 Cima Ovest di Lavaredo 244, 376 Cook, Drew 259, 323 Cima Piccolissima 244 Coolidge, W A B 107, 369 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 457

Cooper, James 325 Dangar, Fred 401 Cooper, Tarquin Danphe Sail 269 article: ‘Forgotten Frontier’ 117 Dardanelles 107 Corax, Janne 310 Dare Gol 95, 96 Corbie 112 Darjeeling 194, 196, 206 Corboy, Devin 293 Davidson, Ken 419 Cordillera Blanca 154, 158, 287, 290, 300, 320 Davidson, Ross 89–93, 279, 322 Cordillera Huarochirí 299 Davie, Mick 288 Cordillera Huayhuash 154, 295 Davis, Dennis 420, 421 Cordillera Occidental 305 Davis, Steph 280 Cordillera Real 320 Davy, Ryan Sean 266 Cordillera Urubamba 301 Dawes, Johnny 362, 439 Cordillera Vilcabamba 303 Dawson, Glen 365 Coropuna Casulla 305 Deborah 380 Coropuna Central I 305 Degasper, Celso 406 Coropuna Central II 305 della Bordella, Matteo 298, 312 Coropuna Este 305, 306 de Magalhaes, Herbert Hafers 233 Coropuna Este II 305 Demirkazιk 376, 406 Coropuna Norte 306 Dempster, Kyle 134 Coropuna Oeste 306 63–70, 380 Corry, Maj J B 35, 106 Denham, Scott 358 Cortina d’Ampezzo 119 Dennistoun, Lt J R 53, 112 Costa, Marcos 81–4, 278, 321 Den Norske Turistforening 46 Cotter, Ed 316 Denny, Glen 337 Cotter, Guy 264 Dent Blanche 233 Council for National Parks 334 Dent de Géant 13 Courtenay, Ted 419 Dent d’Hérens 233 Couvercle refuge 11, 14 171 Cox, Neil 325 de Saussure, Horace-Bénédict 155 Craig, Bob 379 Desécures, Julien 246 Craiglockhart War Hospital 111 Destivelle, Catherine 343 Crampton, Phil 263 Détrie, Mathieu 247 Crauford Grove, Florence 226 Devil’s Reach Around, (The) 290 Craven, Rith 287 Devil’s Thumb 58 Crocket, Ken 344 Dharahara tower 149 Crooks, Jim 379 Dhaulagiri 263, 264, 276 Cross, Joan 405 Diamir valley 42 Crowley, Alesteir 366 Diamond Ridge 60 Croz, Michel 223 Dimai, Angelo 437 Cuillin Ridge 249 Dimai, Fulgenzio 437 Culbert, Vance 58 Dinwoodie, Dougie 345 Cummins, Savannah 259 Dionisio, D 300 Cunningham, Johnny 400 Di Ponio, Steve 288 Curran, Jim 336 Dittmann, Tim 256 Curry, Duncan 251 Dixon, Nicholas Scarth Cust, A 220 obituary 384 Cwm Idwal 234 Djengi-Djer 281, 285, 325 Djengi-Djer Peak 283 D Dodge, T A 300 Dag, Ala 406 Doiseau, Eric 247 Daily Telegraph 38, 164 Dolomites 118, 119, 122, 244, 247 dal Pra, Petro 247 Dom 233, 376 Damavand 96 Done, 2nd Lt N S 113, 329 Dance, Ted 420 Donini, Jim 276 458 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Doré, Gustav 368 article: ‘India 2017’ 252 Douglas, Ed viii, 178, 359, 362, 371 article: ‘Pakistan 2017’ 273 Magician’s Glass (The) 438 Emily Peak Douglas Gillespie, Lt Alexander 127 La Vengeance de Robîne 278 Downes, Bob 420 Empire Forestry Journal 211 Drei Zinnen hut 119 Empire Way glacier 61, 62 Driver, Felix 208 English Opera Group 405 Drozdz, Piotr 33 Eqipo Femenino de Alpinismo 287 Dru, Becky 320 Erhard Loretan: Une vie suspendue, book 350 Drummond, Ed 337, 339 Esfinge 320 Dry, Jonny 340 Estcourt, Nick 333 article: ‘Challenging the Mountaineer’s Etzel, Lorin 260 Gaze’ 187 Evans, Brian 414 Dudra, John 58 Evans, Charles 394, 395 Duff, Mal 383, 384 Evans, Denise 443 220 Evans, Hannah 251 Dufton, Jesse 319 Evans, Paul 178, 181, 182, 185 Duhamel, Capt Henri 105, 107, 369 Everest viii, 20, 107, 148, 194, 209, 261, 264, Duke of Edinburgh Award 375, 413, 416 266–269, 272, 277, 352, 440 Du Puy, Matt 262 1924 expedition 206 Durand Line 38 1933 expedition 206, 210, 215 Durtler, Bill 58 1963 expedition 380 Dusic, Matjaz 259 Everest Base Camp 148 North Col 210 E Everett, Alistair 319 118 Evind Årtun, Bjorn 134 East Greenland 319 Ewen, Capt G T 107, 237 East Phunangma glacier 258 Exum, Glenn 365 Eavis, Andy 326 Echevarría, Evelio 364 F Echoes, book 338 Fabeiro, Andrés 310 Écrins 33 Fairley, Bruce 58 Edlinger, Patrick 362 Fairley, John 444 Edmundson, Henry 376 Falak Ser 38, 39 Edwards, Amelia 434, 437 Falketind 46, 49, 50 Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys 433, Falkland Islands 384 437 Fall of Heaven: Whymper’s Tragic Matterhorn Climb Edwards, Guy 58 review 367 Egerton, Mary 355 Farewell to Yak and Yeti? Egger, Fritz 233 review 370 Egger, Toni 362 Farrar, Captain 235 Egypt 108 Farthest North, book 342 Ehrig, Tom 313–4 Father and Sons Wall 63, 68 Eichorn, Jules 365 Fauna Preservation Society 213 Eiger 350 Faux, Ronald 332 Elbrus 226 Favresse, Nico 339 El Calafate 308 Fedolfi, Enrico 247 El Capitan 410 Ferguson, Alex 419 Electricwala, Huzefa 258 Ferguson, Rob 422 Elie de Beaumont 315, 316 Ferrari, Kevin 293 Elkins, James 178 Ferreri, Julieta 305–6 Ellis, Ben 315, 316 Ferrier, Kathleen 405 El Matédor 314 Feuillarde, Michel 246 Elson, Timothy Field (The) 215 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 459

Figg, Paul 131, 136, 137, 142, 144 Garwhal Himalaya 142 Finch, George 183 Gasherbrum I 79, 82, 273, 275 220 Gasherbrum II 79, 82, 84, 85 First World War xi, 117, 120, 122, 126, 344 Gasherbrum III 80, 84 Fitzroy 314, 320 Gasherbrum IV 32, 80, 82, 85, 321, 331 Fixmer, Lindsay 259 Gasherbrum V 85 Fontán, Carlos Soria 263, 264 Gaza 77, 113 Food and Agriculture Organisatio 377 Gelashvili, Bakar 269 Forbes, James 353 Gelpke, Ludwig 233 forest dormouse (Dryomys nitedula) 99 Geneva 156, 174 Foster, Peter viii Geographical Journal 234 article: ‘The Alpine Club at War: 1914-18’ 105 George Starkey hut 428, 443 Fotheringham, Jim 324 Geremia, Nicolo 247 Foucault, Michel 194 German Alpine Club 154, 157 Fowler, Mick 3, 32, 255 German High Seas Fleet 112 Francis, Henry 285 118 Frank Smythe archive 443 Getzlaff, Felix 313 Fransson, Andreas 316 Gezart 285 Fraser, J W 234 Ghale, Ash Bahadur 151 Freeman-Attwood, Julian 324 Ghale, Suka 151 Frendo, Christophe 245 Ghana 377 Freshfield, Douglas 220, 235, 435 Ghedina, Giuseppe 434 Fronia, Rafal 277 Ghosh, Gautam 264 Frost, Hamish 133 Gibson, Lt H O S 77, 114 Frosty’s Vigil 249 Gietl, Simon 244, 260 Fuhrer, Hans 58 Gifford, Terry 178, 344, 440 Fun or Fear? 63 article: ‘Mountaineering Literature as Dark Furuhata, Takaaki 260 Pastoral’ 177 Fylde Mountaineering Club 384 Gilbert Chase, Anne 68, 70, 257–8 Fynn, V A 234 Gilbert, Di 262 Gilbert, Richard F G Big Walks (The) 389 Gabriel, Robert 365 Classic Walks 389 Gadgil, Rahesh 258 Exploring the Far North-West of Scotland 389 Galán, Pedro 286 Memorable Munros 389 Galdebergtinden 50 obituary 386 Galdhøpiggen 49, 50 Wild Walks 389 Gallagher, Rod 375 Young Explorers 387 Gallipoli 108, 114, 118, 341, 373 Gilbon, Matthieu 245 Gallwas, Jerry 409 Gil, Fátima 287 Galván, Mariano 276, 295 Gilgit 43, 87 Gálvez Aramburu, Jorge (Coqui) 301–2 Gilgit Baltistan Scouts 43 Gamble, Tim 163 Gilgit Scouts 42 Gandini, Carlo 434, 438 Gillian, Stuart 325 Gandiva 3, 253 Gill, John 365 Ganesh 148 Gillman, Peter 367, 439 García, Jonatan 263 Gill, Michael 340 García, José L 295 Giordani, Maurizio 247 Gardiner, Frederick 226 Gjende 47 Garhwal 260 Gjendebu 47 Garibotti, Rolo Glacier Peak 234 article: ‘Argentina & Patagonia 2017’ 307 Glasgow, John 316 Garrard, Rodney Glen Coe 250, 251 article: ‘Lessons from the Andes’ 154 Glittertind 49, 50 460 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Glyndebourne 404 Grossglockner 125 Gogarth Gross Grünhorn 348 Strand 5 Grupo Arista 309 Gollancz, Livia Gspaltenhorn 233 obituary 390 Guanaco Yacu 311 Gollancz, Victor 390, 392 Guerra, Juan 311 Gomersall, Tim 249 Guigonnet, Benjamin 247 Goodeve, Capt T E 105, 114 Gukov, Alexander 276 Goodfellow, Basil 444 Gulabgarh 3 Goodhart, Jamie 259, 323 Gully of the Gods 250 Goodwin, Stephen 335, 350 Gunj-e Dur glacier 279, 322 Gorakh Himal 324 Gunj-e Tang valley 87 Gordon, Seton 215 Günzel, André 269 Gorkha 146, 147, 148, 152, 153 Guru Rinpoche, see Padmasambhava 188 Gough, Peter 316 Gutiérrez, Lauro 310 Gough, Richard 440 Graham, Christopher 320 H Graham, Pete 3–10, 74, 234, 253, 320, 323 Hackett, Albert 444 Graham, Rick 5 Hagshu Nala 256, 260 Grajciar, Martin 283 Hahn, Kurt 375 Grand Canyon 337 Haig, Sir Douglas 114 240 Haileybury 110 Grande Enciclopedia Illustrata della Montagna 363 Hainz, Christoph 260 Grande Fourche 240–1 Hakuna Matata 247 11, 18 Hák, Zdenek 273, 275 9, 16, 32, 60, 246, 254, 260, 367 Haley, Colin 64, 313 Grand Tournalin 368 Halley Bay 180 Granowski, Damian 246 Hall, Henry 58 Grant, Tom 316 Hamilton, David 316 Gravina, Dorothea 406, 407 Hamor, Peter 264 Gray, Dennis 391 Hampstead 333 article: ‘Falak Ser: The Road To Heaven’ 37 Hanna, Noel 268 Great Outdoors (The), magazine 414 Hannay, Richard 113 Greene, Raymond Hanoverian Reserve 122 Moments of Being 210 Hansen, Peter 218 Greenland 49, 368 Haramosh II (6666m) 177 Gregson, Jim Hardie, Norman article: ‘Jotunheimen: the Rough and the In Highest Nepal 395 Smooth’ 44 obituary 392 Gregson, Sandra 49 On My Own Two Feet 394 Greig, Andrew 383, 384 Harding, J G R 407 Summit Fever 383 Harding, Tom 325 Grenadier Guards 115 Hare, Sue 444 Grey Corries 249, 250 Har Har Mahadev 255 Griffin, Jonathan 312 Harlin, John 333, 407 Griffin, Lindsay 382, 433 Harrison’s Rocks 334 article: ‘Alps & Dolomites 2017 239 Hartree, 2nd Lt C A 114, 203 Grigor-Taylor, Barbara 442 Harvard 156 Grimes, Niall 138 Haston, Dougal 345 Grindelwald glacier 171 Haute-Savoie 15, 107 Grinstead, Jack 316 Hawley, Elizabeth 271 Grobel, Paulo 269 obituary 396 Groher, Michael 260 Hawthorn, Uisdean 3–10, 63–75, 249, 253, 320, Grohmann, Paul 434, 437 323 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 461

Hayat, Karim 87–93, 279, 322 Holdsworth, Connor 325 Hayat, Rahim 89, 93 Holdsworth, R L 38 Hazara Expedition 109 Holecek, Marek 273, 275 Head, Maj Bernard 110, 114 Holland, C F 234 Heald, Nathan 288–9, 293, 301–2, 303–4 Holler, Thomas 260 Heckle, Hilda 442, 444 Holmes, Steve 251 Heftye, Thomas 46 Holzer, Andy 265 Heights of Reflection Homer hut 316 review 356 Hong, Sung-Taek 266 Helander, Clint 71 Honnold, Alex 342 Helliker, Matt 339 Alone of the Wall, book 180 Hellstugutindane 50 Hooge 110 Hemingway, Ernest 120, 125 Hooker glacier 315 Farewell to Arms 125 Hooker valley 234 Hemming, Gary 407 Hooley, Dan 357 Henderson glacier 27 Hopkinson, Col Bertram 115, 116 Hendevade 406 Hörnli ridge 233 Hennessey, Sam 256 Horseshoe valley 27 Henry, Susannah 440 Hôtel des Neuchâtelois 156 Hercules Inlet 26 Houlding, Leo 19–28, 318 Herman, Loreto 334–5 article: ‘The Spectre: An Antarctic Diary’ 19 Herrington, Jim 335, 364 House, Bill 56, 380 Herzog, Werner 357 House, Steve 29, 30, 352 Hesket Newmarket 382 Houston, Charlie 343 Hesleden, Dave 56 Hoyle, Tom Hezar 94, 99 article: ‘New Zealand 2017’ 315 Hicks, Callum 250 Hrubý, Zdenek 275 Hillary, Percy 341 Huagurunchu South Face (Huaghrunchu) 320 Hillary, Sir Edmund 316, 393, 394, 395, 398 Huamán, Frank 299 review 340 Huandoy 288 Hillary Step 261, 262 Huandoy North 289 Hill, Geoffrey 377 Huantsán 292 Hilton, James 187 Huantsán Oeste 293 Himachal Pradesh 253 Huaraz 155, 157, 158, 288 Himalaya 32, 37, 111, 142, 143, 147, 148, 152, Huascarán 154, 158 190, 239, 253 Huayana Potosi 320 Himalayan Club 189, 195, 206, 207, 210, 258, Huaytapallana 157 395 Huber, Alexander 244, 278 Himalayan Database 272, 398 Huber, Thomas 254, 260 Himalayan Index 442–3 Hudowski, Tadeusz ‘Tad’ 442 Himalayan Journal 210, 213, 214 Hudson, Charles 220 Himalayan Trust 341, 398 Hudson, Sally 283, 325 Himalchuli 418 Hughes, Glyn 318, 442, 443 Hindu Kush 37, 376 Hughes, Luke 324 Hindu Raj 280 Hughes, Mollie 265 Hiraide, Kazuya 273, 274 Humantay 320 Hispar 278 Humantay South? 303 Hispar Muztagh range 86 Humar, Tomaz 362 Hjelledalstind 46, 50 Hummingbird Ridge 337 HMS Moorsom 111–2 Hunter 380 Hodgkin, Robin 180, 402, 416 Hunt, John 341, 389, 394 Hodgson, Cdr J C 111 Huntley, Rowan 442 Hodler, Ferdinand 169–176 Hurrungane 47, 50 Høgruta i Jotunheimen 51 Húserka, Ondrej 284 462 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Hushe 43 Jensen, Susan viii, 432 Hutt, Michael 187 Jerez, Negro 309 Hutton, James 185 Jezebel 69 Huxley, Thomas 354 Jinnah Peak Ghotolti Dreams 280 I Jirishanca 295, 296 Idwal Slabs 234 Tambo, Churros y Amigos 296–7 Illimani 321 John Muir Trust 285, 389 Imperial College, London 183 Johnson, Alexa 340 Imperial War Museum 105 Johnson, Val 360 Imtiaz Sar 279 Jones, H O 227 Incahuasi 310 Jones, Trevor 420 Indian Air Force 264 Jornet, Kilian 265 Indian army 105 Joshua Tree 337 Indian Cavalry 114 Josserand, Gilles 406 Indian Forest Service 206, 208, 209 Jost, Matija 259 Indian Mountaineering Foundation 253 Jotunheimen 45, 47, 48, 50, 51 Indus valley 37 Jourdain, Didier 295–6 Inglis Clark, Capt C 114 Joy Division 357 Innerkofler, Sepp 118–120 Jugal Himal 148 Innsbruck 154, 158 Julian Alps 118 Inschallah 260 Julipar pass 42 Intelligence Corps 113 Julipar Peak 41 International Festival of Mountaineering Jungfrau 171 Literature 335 Jurado, Marco 299 International School of Mountaineering 281, 285 Jurau A 298 Inyanga 400 Jurau B 298 Iran 95, 98 Jutland 112 Iranshahr 97 Ireton, Sean 356 K Isherwood, Dick 272, 378 K2 32, 276, 277, 334 Islamabad 87 K7 West 273, 275 Isle of Arran 184 Kaberi glacier 279, 280 Isonzo river 118, 124 Kabru 187 Italy 118 Kaçkar mountains 407 Itinerari di Pace sul Carso della Grande Guerra 125 Kahiltna glacier 68 Itsogwanka (Itsochuanca) 293–4 Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde 263 Ives, Katie 178 Kamet 274 Kammerlander, Hans 260 J Kangchenjunga 187–201, 207, 209, 262, 349, Jablonski, Wadim 31 395, 443 Jackson, Roland 352 Kangchung 323 Jager, Claude 246 Kangla Kang 324 Jaldapara 213 Kapadia, Harish 444 Jam Crack podcast 138 Karakoram 39, 42, 43, 79, 142, 275, 277, 280 Jamyang Ri Karakoram Highway 42 Chunka 259 Kargel, Jeffrey 159 Janhukot 131, 133, 144 Karimabad 87 Jannu 30 Karlen, Nachele 309–10 Jardine, Ray 181 Karnischer Höhenweg 125 Jasper, Daniela 244 Kashevnik, Anton 276 Jasper, Robert 244 Kashigaon 149–151, 152 Jebel Rum 337 Kashkaratash valley 285 Jeffryes, Benjamin 391 Kashmir 253 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 463

Kastengren, Magnus 316 Kosterlitz, Mike 401 Kasthamandap 149 Krakow University Mountaineering Club 33 Kathmandu 147, 152, 370 Krasnansky, Martin 240 Kathmandu valley 147, 148 Kratochvil, Pavel 240 Kazakhstan 282 Kristians glacier 377 Keates, Bob 376 Krištoffy, Jozef 284 Keir, Norman 345 Kronig, Aloys 233 Kellas, Alexander 234 Kronig, Heinrich 233 Kendal Mountain Festival 337, 338, 350, 439 Kubrick, Stanley Kennedy, E S 220, 379 Full Metal Jacket, film 138 Kennedy, Michael 276 Kuh-e Bazman 96 Kerman 99, 101 Kuh-e Hezar 94, 98, 99 Keswick 384 Kuh-e Joupar 99, 100 Keswick Museum and Art Gallery 442 Kuh-e Palvar 100 Khalkhal pass 278 Kukuczka, Jerzy 275 Khalkhal valley 278 Kullu valley 377 Khalkhal West 278 Kumar, Ravi 264, 267 Kurtyka, Voytek 275, 331–2, 349, 365, 438 Saber 283 Kut 111 Khurdopin glacier 321 Kyrgyz Alpine Club 282 Khurdopin Sar 279 Kyrgyzstan 281, 283, 285, 325 Kichatna Spires, Alaska 319, 410 Kyrkja 45 Kichik-Alai range 281 Kyrkjeglupen 45 Kiełkowski, Małgorzata 363 Kijai Nala 253 L Kinhorn 233 Labbre, Pierre 246 Kinniburgh, David 427 Lacan, Jacques 357 Kinshofer route 42 Lacedelli, Francesco ‘Checo’ 434 Kinzl, Dr Hans 154–7 Lacedelli, Lino 434 Kiris valley 280 Ladies’ Alpine Club 390 Kirkpatrick, Andy 359 Ladies’ Scottish Climbing Club 390 Kirkus, Colin 443 Ladurner, Daniel 244 Kishtwar 3, 253, 376 Laffey, Aiden 278, 322 Kleslo, Michal 281 Lagazuoi 120 Kleslo, Michel 285 Lagginhorn 222, 233 Klimczak, Tomasz 246 Lake District 385 Knight, Lauren 319 Lake Garda 118, 126 Kniven 50 Lake Geneva 170, 171, 172, 174, 175, 176 Knubel, Joseph 227, 232 Lake Huandoy 288 Knubel, Nicklaus 226 Lake Palcacocha 154, 155, 157, 158, 159, 160 Knubel, Peter 226, 227 Lake Parón 288 Kobarid 124 Lalezar 99 Kobusch, Jost 269, 270 Lama, Ang Tshering 267 Koh-i Bandaka 332 La Máscara 313 Kohistan 42, 43 Lambert, Sam 312 Koirala, B P 397 Lamjung 146 Kolahoi 387 Lamprecht, Toni 284 Koldedalstind 50 Lancaster University 334 Komissarov, Vladimir 282, 285 Langdung 269 Kondus valley 279 Langtang Lirung 148, 149 Konigspitze 244 Langtang valley 148, 152 Koppes, Michele 322 Langtang village 148, 149 Korly-too 285 Larkya Lha 269 Korten, Matías 313 Larsen Ice Shelf 400 464 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Last Hillwalker (The) London Opera Players 405 review 366 Long, Adele 363 Latok I 273, 275, 278 Longarone 124 Laumann, Pablo Maximiliano 300 Longland, Nick 419 Lauper, Hans 233 Longland, Sir Jack 180, 413 Lawford, Anna 432 Loos 129 Lawrence, Frieda 179 Lorenz, Konrad 215 Lawrence, Kate 440 Loretan, Erhard 348 Lawson, James 279, 321 Night Naked 438 Leach, Tim 362 Lovatt, Jerry 336, 432 Leaning Tower 410 Lovell, Arminel 324 Lee, Bob 379 Lovelock, James 421 Lee, Ellie 320 Lovelock, Jim 420 Lee, George 412 Lowe, George 68, 276, 316 Le Grammont 171 Lowe, Jeff 276, 343 Leh 256, 259 Lt Denzel 122 Leirhøe 44 Luby, Robert 240 Lejuszewski, Karol 31 Lugmayer, Karl 336 Lemayer, Johannes 244 Lukla 271 Lenzspitze 233 Lunger, Tamara 262 Leopold, Aldo 218 Lunn, Arnold 227, 232 Lepcha 187, 188, 196, 198 Lurcher’s Crag Le Royaume de Noir 244 Wolf Whistle 250 11, 247 Jaws 250 Lester, Jim 139–40, 143 Luwak Jalak pass 215 Le Tour 223 Lyall, Alan 367 Lewis, Matthew 325 Lydon, John 143 Lhakpa, Pasang 377 Lykken, Knut 48 Lho La pass 148 Lyngen peninsula 387 Lhopo 187, 188, 196, 198 Lynn, Dame Vera 405 Lhotse 265, 266, 349, 380 Lyons Ewing, David 325 Lièvre, Christophe 15 Lyskamm 226, 227, 233 Life and Climbs of Voytek Kurtyka (The) 331 Lima 157 M Limits of the Known Macdonald, Kevin 357 review 342 MacFarlane, Robert 194 Linda glacier 234 Mountains of the Mind 191 Lind, Charles Machado, Marcelo 312 An Afterclap of Fate 207 Machu 278, 322 Lindfield Roberts, Quentin 290 Machu Picchu 305 Lindic, Luka 246 MacInnes, Hamish 345 Linek, Vladimír 284 MacIntyre, Alex 332, 350 Linighan, James 324 Mackiewicz, Tomek 277 Link Sar 279, 280, 321 MacLean, John 251 Linz 156 Macleod, Dave 249 Liska, Don 381 MacLeod of MacLeod, Flora Livingstone, Tom 29, 30, 31, 319 28th chief of Clan MacLeod 387 article: ‘Alaska: Fun or Fear?’ 63 Madariaga, Juan Ramon 263 Lloyd George, David 113 Maddeh Kuh 96 Lloyd, Hywel 445 Madonna della Difesa church 119 Lobo Villarroel, Rodrigo 311 Madoz, Iker 295–7 Lobuche East 270 Maestri, Cesare 362 Lochranza 184 Maffei, Graziano 247 Lofoten 48 Magar, Hari Bahadur Budha 272 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 465

Maghull Hospital 110 Mazeno Ridge 276 Magician’s Glass (The), book 362 McCallum, Keith viii Mahabharata 9 McCartney, Simon Maidon Sar 279 Bond (The) 182 Mailing, Agustín 313 McClure, Steve 138 Main Himalayan Thrust 146, 147, 152 McCrea, Tad 312 Makalu 263, 276 McDaniel, Duncan 293 Malakand uprising 38 McDonald, Bernadette 331, 396 Malala Yousafzai 40 Art of Freedom 438, 439 Malam Jabba 40 McFarlane, Jim 394 Malaya 208, 213 McGhie, Harry 320 Malayan Nature Journal 212, 216 McGimpsey, Dave 250 Malayan Nature Society 213 McKenna, Martin 250 Malay Nature Journal 215 McKibben, Craig 81 Malaysian Naturalist 211 McMorrin glacier 401 Malczyk, Rafal 259, 323 McMorrin, Iain Mallalieu, Peter 444 obituary 399 Malla, Vinayak Jay 265 McNaught-Davis, Ian 334 Mallory, George Leigh 105, 178, 190, 194, 207, Mechi 196 366 Mediterranean Expeditionary Force 107, 109 Malte Brun 316 Meinertzhagen, Hannah 325 Malte Brun range 234 Meiringen 222 Mamores 249 Menardi, Marco 435, 438 Manali 3, 377 Mendoza 311 Manaslu 263 Mendoza, Misael 299 Manchester Guardian vii Menn, Barthélemy 169 Mandula, Ondrej 275 Mentz, Oliver 319 Mankial 38 Meredith, Philip 443 Manley Hopkins, Gerard 131 Merghazar 38 Mann, Thomas 357, 358 Merkl, Angela 357 Manshera 42 Meroi, Nives 263 Marchetti, Francesco Enrico 264 Mesopotamia 114 Marcoz, Johanna 312 Messini, Vittorio 260 di Ombretta 247 Messner, Reinhold 265, 357, 365, 367, Marmolada glacier 120 398–9 Marne 106 Meyering, Greg 300 Marseille 106 Midtre Tverråtinden 49 Martin, Scott 325 Millar, John 58 Masherbrum 402, 420 Miller, Fritz 278 Mason, Capt Kenneth 111 Miller, Tim 250 Massif des Aravis 245 Mill, John Stuart 354 Masumoto, Ryo 275 Milward, Bob 247 Mathews, C E 230 Minchinton, Maj H D 111 Mathews, William 223 Minder, Xenia 348 Matiltan 39 Mingolla, Federica 247, 279 Matterhorn 47, 115, 220, 222, 223, 226, 233, Mingora 38, 40 244, 367, 368, 376 Mischabel hut 233 Maun, Alfie 31 Mitchell, Josh 316 Mauri, Carlo 80 Mjølkedalstinden 47, 50 Maximilian Ridge 316 Mohan Bahadur Thapa 201 Máyel Lyáng 196 Mojtaba 100 Maynadier, Mathieu 247 Möller, Manuel 269 Mayr, Karl 121 61, 62 Mayr, Xari 278 58, 62 466 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Monasterio, Aritza 290–2 Mount Temple 234, 235 Monasterio-Berg route 291 Mount Victoria 234 Monks, John Sylvester 56, 380 obituary 402 Mount Zeus 58 Mons 106 Mount Herschel 393 13, 16, 155, 156, 171, 172, 220, Mount Hunter 30, 64 233, 235, 245, 246, 355 Mount Jezebel 70, 74–5 Mont Blanc range 15, 60, 240, 245 Mount Matajur 124 Monteath, Colin 396 Muchu Chhish 321 Monte Cristallo 121 Muir, John 177, 354 355 Muir, Norrie 345 Monypenny, James 311, 320 Mukar Beh 377 Moon, Ben 362 Mullah Omar 41 Moonflower buttress 64, 65 Mullen, Dennis 58 Moorehead, Catherine 439 Mulu Caves 326 Moores, Phil 288 Mummery, A F 221, 224, 226, 231, 232 Mora, Alejandro 278 Muni, Divyesh 258 Moreno, Griselda 310 Muni, Vineeta 258 Moro, Simone 262 Muratti, Glauco 311 Morrison-Bell, Maj A C 115, 233 Murchison hut 315 Morrison, Kimball 432 Murphy, Brendan 255 Morro Von Rosen 309 Murray, 2nd Lt E D 103 Mort, Helen 438, 440 Murray, Lt E D 112 Morton, Sue 205 Muskett, Calum 319 Moser, Timo 260 Muztagh Tower 383, 384 Mosetti, Enrico 316 My Life in Climbing Motta Delvaux, Marcelo 305 review 350 Mountain 414 Mýrdalsjökull 387 Mountain Craft 232 Mountaineering in Scotland N review 344 Nadelhorn 222, 233 Mountain Heritage Trust 442 Nagato, Takaaki 275 Mountain magazine 382 Nagpai Gosum II 269, 270 Mountain Protection Commission 427 Nakajima, Kenro 273, 274 Mountain Rescue Committee 422 Nakamura, Diego 311 Mount Asperity 57 Nanga Parbat 40, 41, 42, 43, 276, 277, 295, 356 Mount Cook 234 Nangpa La 126 Mount Despair 379 Nansen, Fridtjof 342 Mount Edith Cavell 410 Nardi, Daniele 279 Mount Everest Committee 206, 208 Nar Kuh 96 Mount Everest Foundation 31, 285, 318 NASA 158, 159 58 Needham, Brian 390 64 Negro Overo 311 Mount Geikie 410 Neill, Tim 338 Mount Gilbert 58 Nelhams, Adrian 285 Mount Harkeness 22 Nelion 400 Mount Hooker 410 Nepal 134, 187, 190, 337 Mount Huaytapallana 154 Nepal Himalaya 146, 149 337 Nepal Mountaineering Association 270 Mount Nathan 234 Neuve Chapelle 35, 106, 107 112 Nevado Collquepucro 300 Mount Proboscis 410 Nevado Coropuna 305 Mount Remote 58 Nevado Hualcán 291 Mount St Helens 184 Nadie Sabe Nada 290 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 467

Nevado Huandoy 288 Olavsson Vinje, Aasmund 45 Nevado Humantay 304 Old Man of Hoy 334, 419 Nevado Humantay South 303 Olson, Steve 183–4 Nevado Paca 300 Eruption: The Untold Story of Mount Nevado Pariacacca Sur 299 St. Helens 183 Nevados Siulá 298 Olympics 379 Nevado Terijuay 301 O’Neill-Dean, Richard 316 Nevado Tunsho Suroeste 300 Open Road: A Little Book for Wayfarers (The) 179 Newby, Paul 378 Oppenheim, Captain L C 106 New Statesman 178 Ordnance Survey 354 New York Times 397 Organ Pipe peaks 21–2, 318 New Zealand 30, 234 Orr, Donald M New Zealand Alpine Club 394, 395, 422 article: ‘The Mountain Landscapes of New Zealand Antarctic Research Programme 392 Ferdinand Hodler’ 169 Nicholson, Christopher 361 Group 244 Among the Summer Snows 438 Ortner, Sherry 201 Night Naked Oryx: The International Journal of Conservation review 348 211, 213, 214 Nilkanth 253, 257–8 Otto, Alison 396 Nisbet, Andy 250 Outdoor Writers Guild 414 Nodari, Francesco Rota 280 Oxford Outdoor Learning Trust 402 Noguera, Antonio 295 Oxford University Earth Sciences 149 Nolde, Emile 170 Oxford University Mountaineering Club 388 Noone, H D ‘Pat’ 216 Oxtoby, Jack 324 Normand, Bruce 278, 321 article: ‘Gasherbrum IV’ 79 P Norsk Tinde Klub 48 Packard, Bill 394 North Argan glacier 258 Padmasambhava 37, 188, 196 North Irish Horse 112 Padum 260 North Pole 368 Paiju 82 Norway 45, 46, 47, 49, 50 Pakistan 37, 87, 88, 92 No Siesta 246 2005 earthquake 152 Nothing Venture 340 Palcaraju glacier 159 Novak, Urban 3, 253 Pallacocha 305 Nowill, Sidney 376, 406, 407 Paloga river 39 Noyce, Wilfrid 401 Pamir e-Tang river 88 Scholar Mountaineers 178 Panjshir valley 378 Nunn, Paul 58 At The Sharp End, book 177 Papert, Ines 246 Nuptse 265, 352, 383, 420, 422 Papsura 377 Para Casa de Zarela 287 O Para, Jérome 247 Obergabelhorn 222, 368, 376 Pardo, José 295 O’Brien, Vanessa 276 Parenti, Silvia 293 Obscured Perception 258 Pare, Simon 358 Observer 178 Paris, Jean-Paul 246 Odell, Noel 105 Parker, Alfred 220 Ogre 334, 440 Parker, Charles 220 Ogre I 278 Parker, Sandbach 220 Ogre III 278 Parkin, Andy 362 Ogre, The Parnell, Ian review 346 article: ‘Looking to the Future’ 29 Ohio State University 158 Parón gorge 288 Olavsbunuten 47 Parr, Steve 247 468 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Parry, Arthur Haydn 404 Pirrit Hills 19 Parry, Elisabeth 404 Piruhata 321 Thirty Men and a Girl 405 Pittaway, Neil 442 Parry, Joseph 404 Piz Roseg 222 Pasha, Enver 118 Pointe Alphonse Couttet 241 Passchendaele 107, 117 Pointe de Platé 239, 244 Passu 279 Pointe Percée 245, 246 Passu Peak 274 Pokhara 146, 151, 152 Patagonia 32, 70 Poland 154, 332 Paternkofel 119 Pollard, Tim 442 Patey, Tom 334, 391, 407, 408 Pollitt, Howard 259, 323 Payne, Peter 443 Pollock, Frederick 229 Payne, Roger 32 Pollo, Pio 298 Peak District National Park 181 Ponce, Manu 286 Peak District National Park Authority 417 Pontoriero, Luis 310 Pears, Peter 405 Porter, John 30, 332, 352, 432 Pedeferri, Simone 279 Pot Miru 125 Peel, Emily 355 Potter, Emily 324 Peltzmann, Sam 161–2 Pou, Eneko 286, 295 Pemayangtse monastery 198 Pou, Iker 286, 295 Pennington, Adele 263, 264 Prabhu, Ashish 258 Perkins, Andy 255, 438 Praqpa Ri South 278 Perren, Hermann 233 Prentice, Tom 241 Perrin, Félix 369 Preston, Jonathan 250 Perrin, Jim 357 Prezelj, Marko 3, 29, 30, 253 Perry, Steve 250 Price, Tom 426 Peru 154, 156, 158, 288 Princess Mountain 60 Pethangtse 395 Pritchard, Colin 377 Petit, Arnaud 240 Prusik, Karl 120 Petit Dru 246 Prussian Guard 106 Petites Jorasses 339 Pucahirca Oeste 287 Petrecek, Tomáš 275 Pucarashta Central 287, 288 Pettigrew, Bob 375, 377 Pucher, Markus 312 Pfaff, Anna 259 Pugh, Griffith 341 Philby, Kim 397 Pumahuagangán South 295 Phupharka Himal 325 Pumori 266 Phurba, Ang 201 Punta Filip Piave 124 Amigos Perdidos 312 Piccinelli, Enrico 293 Espera que te Pegue 312 Pico Nordenskiold 309, 310 Punta Frida 244 Pierson, Billy 80–5, 278, 321 Purian Sar 86 Pigne d’Arolla 222 Putallaz, Andrés 301–2 Pik Aleksandr Blok 281, 282, 283, 285 Pyatt, Edward 363 Summer Bouquet 283, 284 Pik Chapaev 281, 283 Q Pik Irbis 283 Qaleh Hasan Ali 97, 98 Pik Korzhenevskaya 282, 285 Qanatqestan gorge 99 Pilar Goretta 314 Qanatqestan valley 99 Pilkington, Charles 230 Qife Mosibat 100 Pilley, Dorothy 234 Quebrada Chorrillos 311 Climbing Days 178 Quebrada Santa Cruz 287 Pinnacle Club 390 Quechua 157 Pinnacle Mountain 234 Queen Maud 318 Piolets d’Or 134, 331, 332, 351, 427 Queenwood College 352 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 469

R Rolwaling 269, 370 RAF College, Cranwell 333 Rommel, Erwin 124, 125 Rago, Pietro 293 Romsdal 48 Rai, Padam Jung 266 Rongdo La 258 Ralph Waldo Emerson 353 Rongdo valley 258 Ramsden, John 412 Roper, Steve 337 Ramsden, Paul 319 Roseman, Marina 216 Rangitata river 316 Rossiter, Nick 383 Rangtik Tokpo 259 Ross Sea 19 Ransmayr, Christoph 358 Rotang pass 253 Rast Darrah 377 Rote Zähne ridge 233 Ratel, Sébastien 247 Rousseau, Alan 256 Ratouis, Emmanuel 239, 244 Rousseau, Louis 262 Raukogel 121 Rowell, Galen 348 Rawalpindi 38 Rowland, Clive 347 Rawling, Gen C G 107 Rowland, Peter viii, 442, 443 Rayancancha gorge 304 Rowland, Will 325 Rayen 97, 98 Royal Albert Hall 352 Reconnecting with John Muir 177 Royal Anthropological Institute 209, 216 Reid, Capt C J 110, 373 Royal Army Medical Corps 108, 405 Remalaye 259 Royal Engineers 106, 111, 114, 115, 116 Rennard, Helen 249 Royal Flying Corps 112 Revelation Mountains 63, 69, 70 Royal Fusiliers 113 Revol, Elisabeth 277 Royal Garrison Artillery 114 Rey, Hermann 233 Royal Geographical Society 235, 318, 348 Reynolds, Kev 415 Royal Institution 352, 353 Richards, I A 178, 234 Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst 333–4 Richardson, Simon 14, 16, 59, 240, 241, 242 Royal Naval Division 108 article: ‘Game of Thrones’ 55 Royal Tank Regiment 334 article: ‘Scottish Winter 2017-18’ 248 Rubens, Des 80 Riddiford, Earle 316, 394 Rucho 260 Rigon, Francesco 247 Rucksack Club 107, 419, 422 Rimac Trejo, Víctor 300 Rucksack Club Journal 420 Rinn, Micha 59, 60, 61 Rucu Pichincha 377 Río Eléctrico valley 308 Rüedi, Marcel 349 Rio Santa valley 158 Rumpf, Jakob 234 Ripley, Tom 67 Rungofarka 253, 256, 259 Rivas Jordan, Roberto 311 Rúrec canyon 287 Rivers, W H 110 Russell C A Rizo, Luis 286 article: ‘One Hundred Years Ago’ 233 Rjukan 48 Russell, Sally 442 Robbins, Royal Ruttledge, Hugh 210 obituary 407 Ryazantsev, Vladimir 283 Rockcraft 409 Roberts, David 180, 337, 342, 349 S Roberts, Jennifer 319 Saas valley 233 Roberts, Jimmy 337 Sablé, Liz 310 Robertson, Guy 248, 250 Sadpara, Muhammad Ali 266 Roberts, Quentin 289 Saidullah 38 Robinson, Brady 280 Sajad 89, 93, 100 Rocasfoncas 309 Sakang valley 258 Roderick Peak 316 Salathé, John 338 Rogovaya, Vera 283 Salathé Wall 337 Rolling Stones 246 Salcantay Nevado 304 470 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Salisbury, Richard 398 Serra Peaks 62 Salonika 112 Seshak 99 Festival 390 Seshakh 101 Samye 38 Sexten Dolomites 126 Sancier, Pierre 247 Shadbolt, L G 108, 109 Sankt Florian 156 Shafat Fortress 260 Saser Kangri II 258 Shaksgam glacier 79 Sassoon, Siegfried 111 Shamalo, Valery 276 Sass, Paul 283, 284 Shangri-La 199 Satisfaction 275 Shankar, Ramanchandra 322 Satopanth Bamak glacier 322 Sharman, David 288 Saulnier, Nadine 310 Shearing, David 439 Saunders, Ben 19, 26 Shebbeare, Edward Oswald 189, 190, 195, Saunders, Victor 205–18 article: ‘The Peltzman Effect’ 161 Soondar Mooni: The Story of an Indian Sawyer, Charles 158 Elephant 208, 213, 214 Sayers, Dorothy L 397 Shebbeare, Rev C H 209 Scanu, Marcelo 311 Sheers, Tim 279 article: ‘Argentina & Patagonia 2017’ 307 Sheffield 178 Schaller, Adolf 233 Sherpa Akita, Pasang Lhamu 262 Schardt, Raphael 269 Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje 269 Schattenspiel 244 Sherpa, Dawa Sange 267 Schaumann, Caroline 356 Sherpa, Dawa Yangzum 269 Schaumann, Prof Walther 126 Sherpa, Kami Rita 265 Scherf, Lt Col Viktor 121 Sherpa, Lakpa 262 Schett, Markus 270 Sherpa, Lhakpa 265 Schiera, Luca 279, 312 Sherpa, Maya 262 Schönbiel hut 233 Sherpa, Mingma Gyalje 276 Schütze, Lina 286 Sherpa, Naga Dorje 268 Schütz, Jürgen 269 Sherpa, Pasang 370 Schweizer, Paul 323 Sherpa, Pasang Gomba 269 Scimitar Ridge 339 Sherpa, Pasang Kidar 269 Scots Guards 115 Sherpa, Pemba 421 Scott, Doug 152, 198, 334, 346, 375, 440 Sherpa, Pemba Tshering 269 Scott glacier 22 Sherpa, Tashi 421 Scottish Mountaineering Club 107, 344 Sherpa, Tshering 262 Scottish Wild Land Group 389 Sherpi glacier 280 Scrambles amongst the Alps 367 Sherrick, Mike 409 Scurlock, John 55, 60, 61, 62 Shimshal 87, 88, 93, 279, 321 Searle, Mike Shimshal valley 279 article: ‘The Nepal Earthquake’ 146 Shingardar 41 Seattle 379 Shipton, Eric 207, 342, 394, 443 Sebald, W G 357–8 Shishapangma 263, 331, 352, 419 Sedon, Mark 20–8, 318 Shispare 273, 274, 279 Seers, Tim 321 Shiva’s Ice 260 Seigneur, Yannick 246 Shivling 260 Seliverstov, Sergey 285 Shukpa Kunchang glacier 258 Seneca 95 Siachen glacier 79 Senf, Thomas 244 Siadak, Austin 311, 313 Sentinel Rock Siegrist, Stephan 254 Steck-Salathé 336 Siemens, Rocio 33 Septentrion Spires 58 Sientero della Pace 126, 127 Serge Gousseault 246 Sierra Club 56 Serl, Don 57–60 Sierra Nevada 381 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 471

Sikkim 187, 188, 189, 190, 196, 206, 210, 211 Steck, Allen 335 Silsoe College 377 Steck, Ueli 265–6, 350, 362 Silver Hut expedition 340, 395 Steinhaus 223 Silvestre, Ben 3–10, 74, 253, 323 Stelvio pass 118 article: ‘Arjuna’s Bow’ 3 Stephen, Leslie 435 Simón, Ester 287 Playground of Europe, The 178, 220 Simpson, Christopher 386 Steurer, Lisi 247 Simpson, Joe 191, 383 Stob Coire nan Lochan Game of Ghosts 383 En Garde 250 Touching the Void 387 Stolsnøstind 46 Sim, Will 11–18, 243 Stölzl, Philipp 357 Singalila Ridge 187 Stone, Bill 343 Singapore 208 Stone, Tony 319 Siula 154 Stonham, Lt Col C 108 Siulá Grande 298 Store Austanbotntinden 50 Skagway 58 Storebjørn 50 Skardu 43, 82 Store Skagastølstind 47, 48, 49, 50 Skautflya 44 Store Smorstabbtinden 50 Slingsby, Capt A M 111 Store Urdadalstind 50 Slingsbytinden 50 Stracey, P D Slingsby, William Cecil 47, 48, 49, 50 Elephant Gold 214 Norway: the Northern Playground 48 Strahlhorn 222 Slovak 70 Strange, Greg 344 Slovak Direct 63, 66, 68 Strauss, Richard 357 Slovenia 29 Štrba, Vladimir 264 Smith, Geoff 420 Streather, Tony 395 Smith, Ian 369 Streetly, John 420 Smith, Roderick viii, 384 Strohmaier, Josef 121 Smith, Will 279, 321 Stroude, Ben 412 Smythe, Frank 193, 197, 198, 199, 201, 235 Strutt, Captain E L 106, 112 Kangchenjunga Adventure (The) 191 Stuart, Allan Smythe, Tony 399 obituary 411 snow buntings (Plectrophenax nivalis) 99 Stump, Edmund 24, 25 Society of Friends 137 Stump, Mugs 24, 25 Solvay hut 233 Stupart, Charles 31 Somerset Light Infantry 107 Styggehøe 50 Somme 112, 117, 329 Subirana, Marc 287 Sondheimer, Ernst 392 Sugarloaf 62 Sonnenwyl, Jean-Claude 349 Sugarloaf (The) 57 Søregga 50 Sullivan, Heather I 179–80, 182 South Argan glacier 258 Sullivan, Jerome 312 Southern Alps 234 Sullivan, Mick 394 South Pole 25, 26 Sumur valley 259, 323 South Tower of Paine 319 Sun Patch Spur 275 Spectre (The) 20–6 Supersaxo, Heinrich 233 Spencer Chapman, F 208, 213 Surtningssui 50 Spiegelhalter, Sir David 162 Survey of India 187 Spilsbury, Harry 412 Survey of India officers 208 Spirig, Bruno 380 Sustad, Steve 255 Squires, Capt R D 110 Su, Steve 279 Stagnetto, Jeremy 312 Suvla Bay 109 Stanage 336 Svartisen 319 Stangl, Christian 265 Swallow, Jim 421 Staples, Dean 264 Swat valley 37, 38, 40 472 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Swenson, Steve 81, 279, 321 Tilman, H W 356, 394, 443 Swift, Wayne 379 Times (The) 211, 214, 367 Timpano, Seth 256 T Tjonneland, Emil 303–4 Table Mountain 234 Tochter, Francis 431 Tae 247 Todd, Maj O E 108 Taftan 95, 96, 98 Tofana 122 Tahir Tower 280 Tomala, Piotr 277 Tajikistan 282, 285 Tomasi, Damien 247 Taliban 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 87 Tomorrow’s World 181, 417 Taman Negara National Park 213, 215 Tonoli, Gabriele 293 Täschhorn 227, 233, 376 Toralles, Marc 295, 296–7 T&A Show, The 257 Torino, Carlitos 309, 310 Tasker, Joe 193, 194, 199, 201, 333 Torralles, Marc 292 Savage Arena 191 Torres del Paine 308, 313 Tasman glacier 316 Trailokya Mohan 149 Tatajayco 300 Trans-Siberian Railway 155 Tatina glacier 319 Tranter’s Round 249 Taussig, Michael 218 Tre Cime di Lavaredo 117 Tekiele, Kacper 250 Trenker, Luis Temiar 216, 217, 218 Berge in Flammen (film) 126 Tenchaddar 189, 192 Treppte, Rainer 278 Tensing, Nima 201 Trieste 118 Tepnadze, Giorgi 269 Troillet, Jean 348, 349 Terijuay Grande 303 Tröllaskagi 387 Terijuay massif 302–3 Trollveggen Wall 331 Terra Nova 112 Troll Wall 49, 359 Tetleh glacier 259 Trommsdorff, Christian 29 Teufelsgrat 233 Trondheim 47 Theil Mountains 26 True Summit: What Really Happened on the Thiepval Memorial 113 Legendary Ascent of Annapurna 343 Thomas, Hugh Truffer, Willi 406 article: ‘Central Asia 2017’ 281 Tubby, Col A H 109 Thompson, Capt R E 114, 425 Tucker, Charles Comyns 220, 435 Thompson, Jason 64, 257 Tuckett, Francis Fox 435 Thompson, Lonnie 158, 160 Tuckey, Harriet 341 Thompson, Molly 319 Turnbull, Dick 336, 418 Thompson, Peter 278, 322 Turnbull, Oliver 412 Three in Norway (by two of them) Turner, Gordon 443 Lees, James A and Clutterbuck, Walter J 46 Turner, Samuel 234 Three Men in a Boat Turner, Twid 319 Jerome, Jerome K 46 Tverråtindane 50 Tiarriz, Victor 433 Txikon, Alex 266 Tibbetts, Ben 161, 243 Txikon, Jabi 310 article: ‘Aiguille du Jardin’ 11 Tyndale-Biscoe, Cecil 38 Tibet 107, 211, 266 Tyndale, Lt H E 110 Tibetan Buddhism 37, 38 Tyndall, John 156, 220, 223 Tides 118 review 338 Tieck, Ludwig 357 U Tiedemann glacier 56 Ullman, James Ramsey 409 Tiefmattenjoch 233 Ultimate Challenge 392 Tietjen, Simon 325 Una Realidad Diferente 300 Tighe, Tony 333 Union glacier 19, 26, 28 I n d e x 2 0 1 8 473

University Mountaineering Club 385 Via delle Cattedrale 247 University of Arizona 159 View from the Summit 340 University of Cambridge 162 Vigdal, Johannes 48 University of Chicago 161 Vigl, Barbara 260 University of Edinburgh 383 Vilhauer, Jared 256 University of Heidelberg 156 Villanueva, Seán 312, 313–4 University of Innsbruck 154 Villanueva, Tino 256 University of Missouri 357 Vilsmaier, Joseph 357 University of Oregon 382 Virjerab glacier 279, 321 Unknown Pleasures Visdalen 50 review 359 Volcán El Muerto 310 Unsworth, Walt von Goethe, Johann Wolfgang 357 Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering 414 von Hötzendorf, Conrad 118 English Outcrops, The 412 von Humboldt, Alexander 357 Everest: The Mountaineering History 414 von Ruthner, Anthon 435 Hold the Heights: The Foundations Vormeli 48 of Mountaineering 414 Voyages dans les Alpes, book 155 Matterhorn Man 414 obituary 412 W Peaks, Passes & Glaciers 414 Waddington 58, 62 Tiger in the Snow 414 Wagner, Benno 282, 284 Walking in the Alps 416 Wainwright, Robert Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees 415 Remarkable Life of George Ingle Finch: Climber, Unteraar glacier 156 Scientist, Inventor, The 183 Uranostind 50 Waka Ñan 299 Uranostind Søregga 51 Walder, Mario 278 Urquizo Cereceda, Manuel 301–2 Walker, Horace 226 Urubamba range 302 Walker, Ian 163 Urubko, Denis 277, 283 Walker, Johnny 386 Ushu 40 Walker, Lt Col Harry 107, 129 Ushu valley 38 Walker, Lucy 226 Walker Spur 60 V Wall End Barn 413 Valderrama, Nicolás 309 Wall, Ian vii Valderrama, Nicole 309 article: ‘Nepal 2017’ 261 Vallance, Mark 180–2 Walmsley, Joe 420 obituary 416 obituary 419 416 Walton, Elijah 435 Wild Country: the Man who Made Friends 180 Wangyal, Sonam 377 Vallot, Guillaume 84 Ward, Emily 325 Vancouver 57 Warner, Chris 262 Vanhee, Siebe 312, 313–4 Warren, Charles 443 van Loocke, Koen viii Warth, Hermann 38 article: ‘All By Themselves’ 219 Wayfarers’ Club 411 Vasou, Mojtaba 94, 99 Waziristan 40 Vasuki Parbat 137, 142 Weber, Cari 310 Vaucher, Michel 406 Weber, Max 228 Vega, Vicky 287 Weber, Paul 319 Venables, Stephen 382, 438 Weilenmann, Johan Jakob 437 Venice 118, 121, 124 Weir, Tom 371 Veotindane 50 Weisshorn 223, 227 Verspeak, Simon 324 Weissmies hut 233 Vesterdalen 319 Welfringer, Symon 278 Vestre Memurutind 48 Welling, Tony 404 474 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 8

Wells, Rev E G 106 Yamanoi, Yasushi 81, 260 Welsh National Opera 406 Yanacocha pass 301 Werner, Capt C A 110, 167 Yanapaccha gorge 290 Westaway, Jonathan 188 Yangzum, Dawa 262, 371 Thinking Like a Mountain 205 Yarsa village 149, 151, 152 Westmacott, Mike 320 Yashkuk Sar II 321 Weston, Rev Walter Yates, Simon 323 Playground of the Far East, The 234 Yates, Sylvia 406 Wetzl, Peter 263 Yearsley, Simon 142 Whataroa valley 316 Yearwood, Roland 264 When Men and Mountains Meet, book 356 Yeld, George 231, 432 Whillans, Don 407, 420 Yerupaja 298 Whitwell, Edward Robson 435 Yokoyama, Katsutaka 275 Whymper couloir 12, 18 Yosemite 33 Whymper, Edward 219, 220, 223 Young Explorers’ Trust 388 Whymper Spur 246 Young, Susie 300 Wielicki, Krzysztof 277 Ypres 1, 106, 110, 114, 117, 126 Wielka Encyklopedia Gór i Alpinizmu review 363 Z Wiessner, Fritz 56, 380 Zabol 98 Wild Country, book 182 Zagros 99 Wild, Finlay 249 Zamorian glacier 258 Wills, Rusty 279 Zamorian La 258 Wilson, Ken viii Zanker, Julian 254 Wilson, Robert 333 Zanskar 256, 259 Wind Rivers 381 Zeb, Jahan 38 Winter-Billington, Alexandra 322 Zemu glacier 211 Winthrop Young, Geoffrey vii, viii, 125–6, 178, Zenz, Christian 278 191, 221, 226, 227, 232, 233 Zerain 295 Grace of Forgetting, The 125 Zerain, Alberto 263, 276, 295 Scrambles Amongst the Alps 47 Zermatt 115, 222 Wilson, E O 215 Zerovnik, Tomaz 259 Wohlleben, Michi 244 Zhang Jing Chuan 42 Wolf, Iwan 260 Zimmerman, Graham 279, 321 Wollaston, A F 114 Zinalrothorn 222, 227, 376 Woodlands Outdoor Centre 399 Zion National Park 360 Woodman Graham, William 187 Zöllner, Richard Woodman, Tim 140 article: ‘The Mountains of South-eastern Woods, Kate 412 Iran’ 94 Workers’ Playtime 405 Zopa, Thupten 371 Workman, William 188 Zsolt, Török 312 World Atlas of Mountaineering 401 Zulpich 379 Wragg, Martin 438 Zybell, Lutz 313 Wright, Chris 279, 321 Wright, Paula 179 Wykham 209 Wyn-Harris, Percy 206 Wyss, Hansjörg 308

Y Yad Sar 92, 93, 279, 322 Yaku Mama 287 Yalung Glacier 193 Yamamoto, Jorge 286