w aypoints 8 geared up 40 final mile 52

A dventure C yclist GO THE DISTANCE. march 2012 www.adventurecycling.org $4.95

central america: Touring Guatemala PLUS:

Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula

Roughing it in tajikistan

Weir in Portugal – part 1 3:2012 contents March 2012 · Volume 39 Number 2 · www.adventurecycling.org

A dventure C yclist is published nine times each year by the Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscrip- tion to Adventure Cyclist and dis- counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved. Our Cover Cara Coolbaugh encounters a missing piece of road in Guatemala. Photo by t Cass Gilbert. r e lb (left) Local Guatemalans are sur- gi prised to see a female traveling by

cass bike in their country.

MISSION CYCLE THE MAYAn KINGDOM ... before it’s too late by Cara Coolbaugh The mission of Adventure Cycling 10 Guatemela will test the mettle of both you and your gear. But it’s well worth the effort. Association is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle. We help cyclists explore the landscapes and the wondrous yucatán by Charles Lynch history of America for fitness, fun, 20 Contrary to the fear others perceived, an American finds a hidden gem for bike touring. and self-discovery. CAMPAIGNS TaJIKISTAN IS FOR CYCLISTS by Rose Moore Our strategic plan includes three 26 If it’s rugged, spectacular bike travel that you seek, look no further than Central Asia. major campaigns: • Creating Bike Routes for America • Getting Americans Bicycling WINE OF THE PEOPLE: PEDALING NORTHERN PORTUGAL by Willie Weir • Supporting Bicycling Communities 34 Along with his wife Kat, the seasoned bicycle traveler finds a land of amazing variety. How to Reach Us To join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us LETTERS online at www.adventurecycling.org or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776 04 LER TTE from the Editor 44 annual report email: [email protected] 05 LER TTE s from the readers 52 final mile Subscription Address: Adventure Cycling Association LER TTE from the DIRECTOR scene from the saddle P.O. Box 8308 06 55 Missoula, MT 59807

departments ridin g sweep Headquarters: 56 Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St. 07 companions wanted 58 C lassifieds/Marketplace Missoula, MT 59802 08 WAYPOINTS 63 OPEN ROAD GALLERY 40 geared up

ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 A dventure Letter from the Editor Letters from our Readers C yclist t he steady machine Traffic regulations confusing, dangerous, and, possibly costly March 2012 reference recent only in geological terms volume 39 number 2 The more things change, the more one thing stays the same www.adventurecycling.org

editor michael deme [email protected] Yield not to temptation of an ad-libbed comedy segment which Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail art director The 20th century was a bustling innovative and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. greg siple For many years, I waved drivers through invites guests to make fairly outrageous We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do [email protected] when I stopped at intersections. comments in general. Rather than being technical editor period for modern humans, full of monu- not want your comments to be printed in Adventure john schubert That all stopped after reading about a ‘recent rant,’ it happened in 2009. Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your [email protected] mental leaps in technology and thought. The the liability I took on with that behavior. Australian cyclists immediately took name and address with your correspondence. Email FIELD editor your comments, questions, or letters to editor@ michael mccoy century started with the invention of successful human Whether bicycling or driving a motor her to task, she apologized and did, as [email protected] flight, and within 66 years the first people stepped foot vehicle, the operator who waves another you suggest, ride a bike. A quick Google adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure contb ri uting writers operator (or bicyclist) through then search of ‘Magda Szubanski bicycle’ Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. dan d'ambrosio nancy clark willie weir Jan heine on the moon. Think mundane move. Sure, becomes responsible — and liable — if brings this news article from the event: patrick o'grady about that. From a 12-sec- hand-helds are amaz- an accident occurs. www.theage.com.au/national/magdas- Copy Editor CO RREctionS: February phyllis picklesimer ond, 120-foot flight to ing machines in their I appreciate the motorists who wave anticyclist-rant-sparks-chain-reaction- advertising director an extremely perilous own right, in many me through, especially when they are 20091001-gcyf.html. a We misspelled Adam Coppola’s rick bruner 509.493.4930 expedition of approxi- ways they are much at a point at the intersection where they Here’s a look at it is from a cyclist name, giving it one “p” and two advertising@ adventurecycling.org mately 250,000 miles more technologically have no responsibility or traffic control on an Australian blog: ozsoapbox.com/ “l”s (Copolla). Adam was the winner of our 3rd Annual Bicycle STAFF through the vacuum of advanced than anything device requiring them to stop when I cycling/magda-szubanski-apologises-will- executive director space — and the key: the developed during the have a traffic control device that requires join-ride-to-work-day. Travel Photo Contest (page 52). jim sayer people returned safely Apollo program, but me, as a vehicle (including bicycle) opera- And there were many other responses a On page 56, we stated that [email protected] chief operations officer to the Earth. Shortly they rarely push anyone tor, to stop. However, I still make sure I from local riders. Deanna McMillen’s bike trip ended sheila snyder, cpa after this, human space beyond their boundries. maintain eye contact with that motorist I’m not writing to defend Magda, nor in Jasper, Wyoming. It should have membership & Development read that the trip ended in Jasper, julie huck amanda lipsey flight occurred regularly, And then there’s our and check all other intersecting routes to to even suggest she is back in the good amy corbin Joshua tack mostly through NASA’s Space Shuttle buddy the bicycle. Developed in the 19th ensure I can safely cross the intersection graces of the local cycling community, Alberta. thomas bassett alex campbell a Events we didn’t include (pages m edia Program, and there is now a growing, century and mass-produced in the 20th, and maintain my responsibilities to yield just to say that your reference to the inci- winona bateman michael mccoy albeit slowly, International Space Station it advanced very little technologically, to travelers from other directions. dent was lazily incomplete — a useful 33-35): alison riley – Berkshires to Boston: Sept. 19- pu blications orbiting the earth. especially in comparison to the previ- Paul Lloyd-Davies illustration for your point perhaps but michael deme Greg siple Almost equally impressive, the French ously mentioned machines. But maybe Great Falls, Montana taken well out of context and mis-catago- 23, berkshirestoboston.com. derek gallagher rachel stevens – Governor’s Autumn Bicycle Ride information technology and the British developed the Concorde, slow and steady wins the race. Concorde rized as ‘recent.’ john sieber richard darne an amazing passenger jet that flew at is retired. The Shuttle Program has been Australian update Elizabeth Cage Across Kentucky (GABRAKY): john eikens twice the speed of sound for extended scuttled. What endeavors are there left to I’m a member of Adventure Cycling, a Croydon Park, New South Wales Oct. 4-7, gabraky.com. torsu arlen hall mo mislivets periods of time — longer than any mili- test human limits? Sure, you could jump devoted reader of Adventure Cyclist, and – Trans New Hampshire Bike Ride, paul hansbarger madeline mckiddy tary machines of the time. off mountains in a flying squirrel suit like an everyday rider in Sydney, Australia. June 22-24, transhnbikeride.org. reout s and mapping carla majernik jennifer milyko Sadly, for many, these achievements Dean Potter, but you can count me out. But Just for the record, Australian cyclists – Lobster Ride & Roll, June 21, virginia sullivan casey greene nathan bikemaine.org taylor melissa thompson were not adequately followed up. We hop on a bicycle and ride across the U.S. or took care of Magda Szubanski when she sales and marketing haven’t been back to the moon since some other nation? Sure. Sign me up. made her ill founded remarks in the heat teri maloughney the last Apollo mission in 1972, and we I recently read a short story titled “Artie’s cyclosource ted bowman sarah raz seem to have come to the conclusion Angels” by Catherine Wells in which a office manager that robots will take over space explo- young man in a post apocalyptic world beth petersen ration. The Concorde has been retired helps redeem downtrodden people by board of directors and, although there are a few supersonic giving them bicycles that he has built. By Distinctive Bicycling Vacations since 1979 president programs sputtering along, faster-than- riding bicycles, they are rescued from what carol york vice president sound civilian travel remains elusive. seems to be a hopeless existence. It was wally werner Although it’s so far short-lived, the during the author’s tandem bicycle tour of sc e retary 21st century has been interestingly slow Arizona that the seeds of the story were andy baur t reasURer in terms of groundbreaking advances. sown, more proof that bicycling is a cre- andy huppert The century hasn’t started with near the ative force. board members jason boucher todd copley bang of its predecessor, and humans seem jennifer garst george mendes satisfied to spend much of their time Michael Deme jeff miller donna o'neal gawking at hand-held computers and Editor, Adventure Cyclist informing the world about their every [email protected]

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letter from the Director Companions Wanted Equinox Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978 Many big changes now and ahead for Adventure Cycling

Support Driver — West to East — Summer 2012 Seattle to Key West Retired businessman Looking to finish by second week of October. Retired 68-year-old male available to drive your traveling by bicycle from Seattle to Key West, Failed attempt of the Northern Tier in may of Talk about a pivotal moment, the Spring Equinox is it. Most visitors who support vehicle during the summer of 2012. or reverse course, in mid May. Just touring 2010. Did TransAm in 2007 and loved it! If Would like to support an individual or small America, seeing its people, and experiencing interested email [email protected]. come to Missoula enjoy our valley in all its lush, green grandeur, dur- group on the Northern Tier, Western Express, the freedom of the road. Expect to travel 50 TransAm, or Lewis & Clark bicycle trails. I have to 75 miles per day, depending on our experi- Australia 2012 — June through December I’m a ing the summer months. But those of us who live here know what a long, experience; I drove support for riders on the ences and sites we choose to see. Looking to 24-year-old male and I want to cycle Australia and often overcast winter we experience. Even though I love winter, I can hardly TransAm in both 2008 and 2009, and I have travel east to the Mississippi, then south along in 2012, 14,000 kilometers over a period of ridden most of the Adventure Cycling cross- the river, and east through Florida to Key West. six months. I have done two months cycling wait for that day in March (this year, the 20th) when the light dominates the dark, country routes on my loaded touring bicycle. This is only a suggested route. Those who travel Australia for fun but it was so awesome that Available from May 15 to August 15. If inter- as companions are free to suggest alternative it has turned into a bit of a dream to finish and thoughts turn to extended bike rides, lazy days by (and in) the river, picnics, ested email [email protected]. routes. If interested email [email protected]. the ride from Darwin on to Perth, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, and Cairns. The more people Vancouver to St Johns — Cross Canada On May Great Divide Mountain Bike Route A Michigan the better, for safety and fun. I’m on a budget New people and new wildflowers and … you get my drift. Underground Railroad Detroit Alternate 1, 2012, I will start a four-month trip across couple, ages 52 and 46, are looking for another so I estimate 4,000 AUS dollars for the whole routes to adventure … Change is also happening big-time at Route to major fanfare from the Midwest Canada as part of a sabbatical leave to learn more couple to ride the northern section of the Great trip (20 Dollars a day). If interested email Von_ Adventure Cycling, and perhaps its big- to Pennsylvania. I traveled for eight about rural communities in this country. The Divide Mountain Bike Route. From Banff, Canada, [email protected]. gest manifestations are the people and days in a row, meeting members, donors, route is along the Trans Canada Highway with to southern Montana. We would follow a simi- our headquarters. I’ve already written the media, and public officials — and planned stops of two to three days in a rural lar route as described in Michael McCoy’s book Oxford to Kenya 23-year-old guy looking for community in each province. We will camp Cycling the Great Divide. We would do this during some good company for an ambitious tour. about our the excitement around bike travel was most of the time, carrying all our gear with the the summer of 2012. If interested email Dan or I’ve split the tour into three legs and plan on building’s palpable. Also nearing completion is a occassional hotel stay. I’m looking for cyclists Kellie at [email protected]. spending approximately three months on each new “west huge change in our Northern Tier and from each province to accompany me for a few leg. First Leg: Oxford to Albania (England, wing,” so suf- Lewis & Clark routes. Because of the weeks at a time to help me learn more about Modified TransAmerica — West to East in 2012 France, Italy, Greece, Albania — Dalmation fice to say, it’s oil and gas boom in North Dakota, our their province. It will be an easy pace! If inter- Male (age 65) looking for companions. Ideal Coast). Second Leg: Turkey to Egypt (Turkey, going up fast current routes have become less safe for ested email [email protected]. group will be two to four people, self-contained, Syria, Jordan, Israel. Third Leg: Egypt to Kenya mostly camping, but flexible. The goal will be (Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya). I have Kenyan con- and beauti- touring cyclists. So last year, we quickly Northern Tier — East to West Starting in New laid-back travel, but with a purpose (60 to 75 tacts who run Jimba Gede Primary School in fully. We’re dispatched a researcher who altered the England. Heading west in the spring and end- miles a day, depending on terrain, weather, Mombasa that I hope to reach. If interested still on track two routes by hundreds of miles to pro- ing in Vancouver, BC or Washington. Averaging and motivation). No drama, no bosses, no judg- email [email protected]. to re-situate vide a more enjoyable riding experience 50 to 100 miles per day, but this is my first ment — just fun, but with an objective. Start on staff and host (see page 56). In record time, these new tour and I’m not sure how it will be with all the Northern Tier (Anacortes), cross the North cycling visi- routes (and maps) will be available in late the weight. I’m a 25-year-old guy so I will be Cascades to Whitefish, drop down to Missoula, Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- traveling cheap. This means camping for free pick up the TransAmerica Trail, and head east. not verify, that the persons above are truthfully tors in May May. Together, all these route additions and finding kind people who will loan their Start in early June. If interested If interested

e representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure (with a big and changes leave the Adventure Cycling l couch, but I plan on eating a lot! Looking for a email [email protected].

sip Cycling members. You can see more ads and post

party planned Route Network at more than 41,000 eg fun person for part or all of the trip. The only new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp r for July 6). miles, the largest mapped cycling system g requirment is you must know how to draft. If Northern Tier - 2012 West to East starting anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, A seven-year veteran (Jim) with our seven But the people! Talking with long- in the world. interested email [email protected]. the end of July. Mix of motels and camping. P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. newest staff members (left to right): Jim time staffer Teri Maloughney, I reminded I invite you to try out one of our Sayer, Nathan Taylor, Arlen Hall (in her that we now have 32 staff, a 50 per- routes — or one of our tours. Another back), Melissa Thompson, Rachel Stevens, cent increase over the last six years, and change we’ve seen is the surge in demand John Eikens, Alex Campbell, Alison Riley. she took a deep breath, realizing what for Adventure Cycling tours. As I write Back To The Berkshires a cool and capable crew we have. In the this, we have surpassed 925 sign-ups — last six months, we’ve brought in seven last year at this same time we were at new people (some in existing positions, 550! With All New Routes some in new spots), working on cartog- So change is all around — and soon, raphy, tours, information technology, Montana’s changing days will match our August 2 - 5, 2012 development, publications, and media mood and outlook — bright, sunny, and — all of it to provide you with the best ready for bicycle travel! information and inspiration to travel by bike. Jim Sayer Other changes are also significant. Executive Director Last month, we unveiled our new [email protected] www.MassBikePike.org

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy SOLO EXTREME BARNSTORM- Spaniard cycles the globe as adventure continues ING IOWA “In 1940, Miriam Taylor, the recreation leadership instructor Expedition cyclist Juan in Iowa’s Women’s Physical Menéndez Granados of Pravia, Education Department, was a community located in Spain’s promoting American Youth Principality of Asturias, has Hosteling (AYH). A 200-mile visited some of the world’s circle out and back to Iowa most remote places via two City had been set up with wheels — and not necessarily sleeping accommodations pro- during the tourist seasons. For vided along the route.” WayPoints instance, he made an ice cross- So begins a letter titled ing of Siberia’s Lake Baikal, for “Biking Iowa Byways” recently which he received the Spanish posted in the Alumni Memories cycling Geographic Society’s “Trip of section of the website of the with the the Year 2010” award. University of Iowa Alumni stars Juan launched his life of Association. The dispatch adventure at the age of 14, The index reads like a who’s came from Ann Hinkle Chaney when he traveled El Camino who of Hollywood stars from of Peachtree City, Georgia, a de Santiago in his home yesteryear. From beuatiful chic 1941 Iowa graduate in physi- country. Later he became the women like Grace Kelly and cal education. She continues: youngest person to complete Lana Turner to tough guys like “My friend, Bette Embick a solo bike crossing of the Humphrey Bogart and Robert Anderson … and I set out with Amazon Basin; finished what Mitchum, they’re all here. a high school friend, Christine he calls his most demanding What a trip down memory Lindall Butterfield, then work- journey to date: a coast-to- lane, not only in terms of the ranges in the world. Riding Juan says his primary goal ing in Chicago. We pooled our coast crossing of Australia; stars but the bicycles too — approximately 480 miles in in making the Tajikistan trip money to come up with a total and took a leisurely spin (not!) old Schwinns, Heros, BSAs, three weeks’ time, he reached was to complete an expedi- of $26.50 to fund our week’s — along the Canadian Western Shelbys — just about every a maximum altitude of 15,300 tion in preparation for more trip. With a late start on Day Arctic Ice Road. machine under the sun. feet while enduring night- ambitious future challenges. 1, we arrived at the Amanas Most recently, Juan com- Many of the photos were time temperatures as low as Hie is currently preparing for in time for a family-style pleted a 2011 journey over the taken purely for publicity 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and a Greenland crossing, and is meal at 40 cents each. The Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan as bicycles were somehow daytime temps typically a few writing a new book about psy- Homestead overnight with use (which borders Afghanistan involved in the film they were degrees above freezing, not to chology in extreme conditions. of our sleeping sheets cost 25 to the north). The Pamirs promoting, like the photo of mention suffering a several-day For more visit juanmenendez cents each. A coiled rope was are among the least visited W.C. Fields with golf clubs bout of digestive problems. granados.com. by the window of our second- Members of Adventure Cycling’s Southern Tier group of 2011 pose with wheels dipped in the Atlantic Ocean. slung over his shoulder and floor room in case of fire. sails attached heading toward “The second night we the ocean, but many were SOUTHERN SUCCESS TOUR d’AFRIQUE TURNS 10 slept in a clean chicken coop taken of these famous people Coast to coast, the short way equipped with cots. actually riding their bikes for A decade of Cairo to Cape Town “On the fourth day, we were enjoyment. It’s hard to pick Last November, Waypoints A goal that seemed so far next few days and re-enter the descending a steep grade favorites, but mine might be received this missive and pho- away just 62 days ago is now lives that we essentially put on 10: Celebrating Ten Years their time wondering why on when our friend from Chicago of Paul Newman and Joanna tograph from life member Ray a reality. We pedaled over hold these last two months. of the Tour d’Afrique Bicycle earth anyone would take on hit the gravel and skidded Woodward filming a bicycle- Hanson of Lander, Wyoming. 3,100 miles to reach our goal The support of our friends and Race and Expedition is a gor- such a quest and the other half across the road. She was race scene from the 1963 Ray was the leader of the self- of bicycle touring across the family members is what gave geous new coffeetable book wanting to join the adventure.” covered with road rash. We movie A New Kind of Love. contained Adventure Cycling Southern Tier states. Although many of us the strength to from the Toronto-based orga- So far, according to had to put her in the hospital Hollywood Rides a Bike group that traversed the some of us are pretty darn endure the hardships of long nizers of that epic 7,500-mile Wheeler’s foreword, 616 indi- overnight, which cost a huge was written (and the photos Southern Tier Bicycle Route, tired, we all know the meaning days in the saddle and some journey. With a foreword by viduals have completed the $6.00. Bette and I stayed at a were collected) by Stephen setting out from San Diego on of accomplishment — that is, less than adequate accommo- Lonely Planet co-founder Tony ride, apparently sometimes nice hostel in a barn. Rea, and the book was nicely September 18 and finishing setting a goal and sticking with dations and food. Being thrust Wheeler and an introduction on fat tires and other times “Bette now lives in designed by Any Inouye, both in St. Augustine on November it to the end. into a group of strangers that by Tour d’Afrique founder on skinny — depending on the Bradenton, Florida, with her seen on bicycles in their back- 21. “We endured some difficult became a team with the same Henry Gold, the 252-page riding surface du jour. Once husband, Jack. She is the sleeve biographies. “Hi! We arrived at Anastasia weather: heat in the deserts individual goal of completing volume is vicarious adventure cyclists around the world women’s golf champ at her If you have a soft spot for State Park near St. Augustine of California and Arizona and this adventure was a very posi- at its best, and is a book worth zine, describes it like this: “The get their hands on this book club, where she won by shoot- stars and bicycles of the past, in the early afternoon. With also cold temps — I would tive experience for me. Over savoring and slobbering over. challenges the riders face as that number is likely to grow ing her age, 78. Christine check this book out. It’s avail- smiling faces and shouts of never have thought that the coming weeks, months, Plus they do something really they cross the African conti- faster than ever. Priced at $80, recently died of cancer. Her able from Angel City Press joy, we rolled our loaded bikes Florida would give us frost on and years, I’ll reflect back on cool on the cover with a pair of nent on their often brutal, four- including shipping and han- husband never let her buy a (angel citypress.com, 800- across a few hundred feet of our panniers and tents three the Southern Tier tour as a bicycle wheels. month journey are described dling, the book can be ordered bicycle. I’m also 78 and keep 949-8039) and costs $20. sandy beach to access the times! We’ll travel back to our really enjoyable experience.” Alex Kerr, writing for New in amusing, no-holds-barred via www.tourdafrique.com. active with aerobics, tennis, waters of the Atlantic Ocean. families and friends over the Zealand’s Endurance maga- detail. The reader spends half golf, and also biking.”

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 C ycle the Mayan Kingdom … before it’s too late!

Story by Cara Coolbaugh Photos by Cass Gilbert If there was ever a good reason to pack be needing them. your bags and go bike touring before the As even seasoned travelers sometimes end of this year, it might it be this: the do, I landed in heaving, chaotic Guatemala world is ending. According to apocalyp- City and promptly paid an inflated gringo tic storytellers, our planet’s destruction price for a direct bus to calm and colonial is scheduled for December 21, 2012, to Antigua. In an effort to get my bike-tour coincide with the end-date in the Mayan legs under me, I purposefully selected an Long Count calendar. Even if you don’t uber-budget hostel, only to be assaulted buy into this doomsday prophecy, it’s high by an army of ravenous bedbugs sometime time to hurry south to the rough-cut gem after midnight. Thankfully, my riding part- of Guatemala. While you’re there, be sure ner Cass Gilbert arrived the next morning to check in on its neighbor, the rugged to scoop me out of my culture-shock daze Mexican state of Chiapas. Once part of and catapult us on one of his typically the same great Mayan kingdom, these two demanding cycling adventures. But, before our wheels could get rolling, I had to get some actual wheels. Along his journey south from Alaska, Cass had enthusiastical- ly tapped in to local bike culture whenever possible. In Guatemala he connected with MayaPedal, a non-profit organization that not only renovates donated bikes to sell back to the community but also dreams up bicycle-inspired machinery — bicimachinas — to assist off-the-grid households. The time here, Elf Cass had uncovered a very coolest example by far is the Bicilicuadora, special steed from among a pile of cheap r

o a pedal-powered smoothie maker, ideal for Huffys: a circa 1996 Mongoose steel-framed yl

ta the country’s incredibly cheap and healthy mountain bike. It was simple, durable, in

tropical fruit — piles of vibrant mangos, good condition, and the perfect size for me.

nathan papayas, bananas, tomatoes, and avocados An avid cyclist, I normally won’t leave River crossing. Central America is criss-crossed by many rivers, like the Usumacinta, so be prepared to load many a ferry. garnish tables at every town market. home without my bike. But the Mongoose’s regions share an undeniable natural beauty, Arriving at the MayaPedal workshop $100 asking price handily beat the cost of bike. With a month to explore the Mayan into Mexico’s Chiapas, it’s like the paper’s Picking up on the variations in color and intricate architectural structures, and simi- in the ramshackle mountain town of San a round-trip airline ticket for my trusty kingdom, our plan was to make a clock- edges stretch outward to reveal wider val- style of women’s dress — women wear larly rich indigenous culture. Miles upon Andres de Iztapa, I was awestruck by the companion. Plus buying locally meant that wise loop through Guatemala and south- leys and softer climbs. Circling east into the traditional clothes more often than men — miles of low-traffic roads and an abundance sight of hundreds of bicycles, dozens of I’d be riding a steed that could be easily ern Mexico on quiet back roads, passing Guatemalan lowlands of Petén, the sun’s is an easy way to identify transitions into of off-road options make for nearly endless oily parts buckets, walls of well-used tools, repaired at any of the hole-in-the-wall cycle through remote indigenous villages and constant heat is like a flatiron, leveling and new tribal areas. adventurous and affordable cycle touring. a bank of homemade workbenches, and a shops peppered throughout Guatemala’s taking on the mountains in our path. scorching the area into dusty submission. As if the hills weren’t enough, shortly The caveat? Be sure your gears are in good handful of eccentric volunteers tinkering hills. Eager to test my new wheels, Cass and I did mention this part of the world Continuing south back to San Andres de after departing MayaPedal and skirting working order because I can promise you’ll away like Santa’s little elves. During his I packed panniers, loaded up, and took off was hilly, didn’t I? To get a sense of the Iztapa, the humidity returns and Mother around the stunning volcanically formed on a shake-down ride in the mighty volca- torturous terrain, think of a piece of green Earth crinkles the paper once again, form- Lago Atitlán, we realized we were in the nic hills behind MayaPedal. As ever, I was construction paper crumpled tightly in a ing push-inducing vertical climbs among eye of hurricane season. A freezing, inces- thrown in at the deep end. Cass’s morning ball, then stretched out slightly to form a volcanic mounds and lush jungle. Mayan sant, and remarkably punctual deluge loop began with, and sustained, one of west-east band. That’s the profile of the culture is as varied as this terrain with burst from the sky daily at 2:00 PM, wash- the steepest climbs my legs had ever ped- Guatemalan highlands — all ups and downs over 25 different tribes in Guatemala and ing away roads, crops, and our hopes of aled. Thankfully, my new little Mongoose in impossibly steep relief. Crossing north Chiapas, each speaking a different dialect. riding some of the less hard-packed tracks. behaved impeccably, and its modest cost seemed more in keeping with our humble surroundings. Guatemalans toiling in ram- bling cornfields stopped to wave and shout encouraging words as we slowly but surely progressed uphill. Maybe Cass selected this particular ride because he knew that it would give me a good feel for what was in store for us. More likely, knowing Cass, his penchant for riding off the beaten track meant rid- ing where there’s barely a track at all. In any case, it was a smart move because that morning climb calibrated my expectations and prompted me to pare weight from my Too much of a good thing. Steep climbs and fun descents near stunning Lago Atitlan. luggage and fit a bigger cassette to the

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 Yet it was too early in the tour to give up the scheme of riding the “back route” from San Pedro to Quetzaltenango (helpfully nicknamed “Xela”). So after 60 hard miles in three long days — carrying our bikes over landslides, forging through snake- infested jungles, and pushing for hours up the steepest climbs imaginable — we reached Xela momentarily triumphant. We subsequently resolved to take an easier route north into Mexico rather than repeat (quite so soon) a neck-tensing, back-break- ing, pushing ordeal on the Guatemalan side of the border. Crossing into Mexico, I couldn’t help wondering why the Guatemalan roads were so ridiculously steep. When travel- ing abroad, I’m always amazed by what people think is or is not rideable and generally possible. Historically, Mayans had certainly not shied from a challenge. They were known for innovating calendar systems and developing the first writ- ten pre-Columbian language. They also built complex and spectacular temples that remain the visible legacy of the Mayan civilizations which spanned thousands of years before the Spanish conquest in the 16th century. Guatemala also embodies the impossible. Fragility and inequality are part of its shadow and light composition, Local tours available. Cara in front of a typical colonial building in Xela that now hosts local tour operator Monte Verde Tours. especially evident during its 36 years of civil war (1960-1996), which forced many grown models were not made for bone- hay paso” — the road was passable — what coffee — yet similar to Guatemala, indig- people under the poverty line. People shaking downhills and gravity-defying did we do? enous communities had been systemati- continue to fight for passage to a better life climbs. Then there was the other sort of We rode on. cally neglected and lacked access to basic in the U.S. Over 10 percent of Guatemala’s person. The hearty, cowboy-boot-wearing, We allowed the breakfast delights of the services and opportunities. In this environ- GDP comes from money remitted back from teeth missing, farmer/road worker/rick- bustling Ocosingo mercado — fresh papaya ment, a leftist people’s movement took root, migrants hard at work in the States. Were shaw driver who — after giving our steeds licuados and piping hot tortillas with beans inspired by Ernesto “Che” Guevara, then the short, painfully sharp roads symptom- the once over — had an intrinsic belief that — to delay us only briefly before riding given a voice by Subcommandante Marcos. atic of a lack of resources? In time, would our same gangly selves were invincible. into uncertain territory ahead. Outside Calling themselves the Zapatistas, the group economic progress spur the construction So when the crooked old man with a soli- the prosperous town boundaries, a differ- hit international news in 1994 when they of easier roads with longer but shallower tary tooth promised, despite the swarm of ent scene began to unfold. Chiapas is one led a gutsy protest against Mexico’s sign- inclines? Or were the iconic chicken buses frowning naysayers encircling Cass at the of Mexico’s richest states in terms of raw ing of NAFTA. As we cycled past junctions, — lavishly repainted ex-U.S. school buses ramshackle taxi stand in Ocosingo, that “Si, resources — including gas, oil, corn, and bus stops, and cafes in Chiapas, we noticed enjoying second lives in the fast lane thanks to supercharged diesel engines and fearless drivers — the Guatemalan answer specialist for bike tours in Central Europe to extreme terrain? It’s not surprising that pushing up silly-steep roads gives you time Visit Central Europe – a paradise for cycling to ponder such questions. As for the question of what was and Surprising density of ancient castles Vienna to Prague Greenways was not rideable, we were beginning to & fairy–tale chateaux Salzburg to Prague Beautiful and varied countryside Vienna to Krakow Amber Trail get a feel for the local barometer. To fine- Excellent network of paved backroads Budapest to Krakow Amber Trail tune our route, we exhaustively canvassed Quality accommodation

each and every person we met. Some Easy and convenient self-guided tours Passau to Vienna Danube Trail folks seemed to take a conservative and Guided tours with local guides Vienna to Budapest Danube Trail protective approach, assuming our bikes 8-day to 10-day tours Prague to Dresden and gangly selves were not up to much snuff. This view partly reflected people’s Visit www.topbicycle.com for trip descriptions, dates and prices. For a free brochure, email us [email protected] Rough roads. Cara wheels along blending with the other traffic near San Andres de Iztapa. own experiences with bikes — the home- Czech Republic Slovakia Austria Hungary Germany Poland

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG inzerat_Top_bicycle.indd 1 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVEN15.2.2008TUREC 16:51:31YCLING.ORG 15 the enduring political banners, spirited detouring to the backpacker paradise at murals, and ideological signs rallying peo- Nuts & Bolts: Guatemala the wondrous limestone bridge near Semuc ple to stand up against unrepresentative Champey. We also explored the temples government. Meanwhile, a few lingering When to go: 4-wheel-drive tracks. Unless easier-to-use transport and pyramids of one of the most notable encampments were conspicuous reminders There’s a rainy (May you’re seeking singletrack, options. ancient Mayan cities — Tikal — built up of the Mexican army’s swift response to the to October) and a dry a sturdy hardtail with no over a period of more than 1,000 years. Zapatista uprising. (November to April) season. suspension is perfect. You Maps and guidebooks: Each of these sights truly deserved the But the current atmosphere was calm, December through February can travel light, as food and Cycle Central America by guidebook hype, and our tired cycling reconciled, and, despite the intermittent has the best weather for accommodation are plenti- Ian Benford (The London legs certainly appreciated the well-timed pockets of kids yelling “Gringo!!,” the cycling. Try to avoid peak ful and cheap, and make Press, 2004) details neat respite. As expected, as soon as we crossed Zapatista heartland was friendly and wel- tourist periods around sure you have a full range ride options and ITMB’s into the rugged coffee-covered hills of the coming for tourists. In fact we encountered Christmas and Easter, and of gears! Guatemala (2005) and Alta Verapaz, the challenging climbs and kindness from a stranger that very night. expect an overall influx of Central America (2007) cool stormy weather began to crank up. The day’s riding hadn’t been too strenuous, eclectic travelers this year Getting there maps are great. A standard It’s not that we sought the most demand- but the route was longer than it seemed on due to the 2012 hype. and around: Lonely Planet/Rough Guide ing routes possible, but it didn’t take long the map and darkness was rapidly closing U.S. citizens don’t need guidebook is useful for riding with fast, belching traffic outside in. As we stood at the roadside wonder- Don’t forget: visas for visits of 90 days food and accommodation Coban — a bustling and rapidly grow- ing if we’d make the next village before Bug spray, rain jacket, and or less. Fly from the U.S. to suggestions. ing coffee town — before we hunted for nightfall, the only vehicle we’d seen all day a set of fleece/thermal top Guatemala City and catch a detour from the main drag. We took a pulled to a stop beside us. Waving, smiling, and bottoms. Weather is a bus out of the capital. Don’t miss: chance turn onto a perfectly empty stony and calling out in perfect English, Emidgo variable — mountainous Nearby Antigua makes a Tikal and Palenque temple track which led us through deep river No SAG here. Expedition touring requires you have your own tools and know how to use them. invited us to his home in the next village, locales arechilly at night, better, safer place to start/ ruins; Limestone pools crossings and over huge summits before Monte Líbano. The fact that he wasn’t while lowland areas are finish given the wide selec- at Semuc Champey; rejoining the main road miles later. Buoyed We cycled enthusiastically through a few mantly. As luck would have it, at the last even going to be there didn’t seem to be an buggy and muggy. tion of restaurants and Catholic-Shaman fusion by this lucky find, we couldn’t resist the villages until we reached the last, seemingly minute two cyclists — local guys out for a issue — he promised his wife would be just accommodations. For inter- church at San Juan temptation of unraveling one last mystery. dead-end town and “decision” junction. weekend spin — rolled up to the junction. as happy to take us in. Indeed, we had a Bike and roads: nal travel, local ‘chicken’ Chamula; Spanish School Would the thin line on our map over Tres When we inquired about the faint track Us: Was there a road to Tres Cruces and wonderful evening eating, conversing, and Main roads in Guatemala busses are cheap and will for one or more week(s) in Cruces prove to be a passable — or impos- disappearing into the sheer face of the beyond? Them: Yes, but it’s steep! finally sleeping on the roof of their fam- are well surfaced but heavy take bikes, however travel Quetzaltenango (for serious sible — apex to the off-road finale back mountain ahead of us, we received a string Figuring we were well acquainted with ily home, surrounded by silent stars and with traffic. Back roads agents (found near hotels/ students) or Lago Atitlan south to San Andres de Iztapa? of negative responses, heads shaking ada- steep, we rode on. After a deceptively rustling jungle foliage. Muchisimas gracias, range from newly paved hostels in most tourist (for a relaxed atmosphere Emidgo. and quiet to brutally steep towns) offer reliable and and kayaking). The next day we woke early, mentally and physically prepared to tackle a mas- sive climb and cycle into the unknown. Our map gave up on detail right around proved a great place to admire the simple crowd of onlookers. That molehill sur- Monte Líbano. It had a vague dotted path gowns and flowing hair of the Lacandon mounted, we made speedy progress along leading up to blue lakes at Laguna Naja and men passing by. We didn’t linger for long, new pavement all the way to Bonapak, our a weak squiggle onward to Sibal. Still, we knowing the remainder of the ride could last stop in Mexico. That night, we endured felt confident in our solitary-toothed muse be a toughie. The landslide -— which had one final bone-soaking, camera-destroying, and began climbing on an empty dirt track reduced traffic to nothing — could prove campsite-flooding, sudden deluge. into the Lacandon jungle, where the last totally impassable for us too. Even as we The next day, we bobbed across the direct descendants of the ancient Mayans cycled through the last village before the Usumacinta River in a rickety boat, and purportedly reside. Isolated and conserva- slide, people were shaking their heads and almost immediately after re-entering tive as they are, the Lacandon tribe would muttering about impossible conditions. Guatemala, the daily rains gave way to sear- ing heat and the smooth tarmac crumbled into dusty, bumpy track. For the next 100 When traveling abroad, I’m always amazed sweaty miles, we couldn’t possibly take The Amgen People’s Coast Classic Discover the beauty of the Oregon Coast in enough water, ice cream, licuados, and by what people think is or is not rideable Agua de Jamaica (thirst-quenching juice 6-day Ride 2-day Ride 4-day Ride made from water and hibiscus flowers), Full Oregon Coast North Coast Ride Central-South Coast Ride and generally possible. guiltily buying out dozens of small shops • Astoria to Brookings • Astoria to Newport • Newport to Brookings along the way from Bethel to Flores. • September 9-14, 2012 • September 9-11, 2012 • September 11-14, 2012 be impossible to miss in their ankle-length Undeterred, we rode on. After all the Now at the halfway point in our loop, • 6 days, 360 miles • 2 days, 150 miles • 4 days, 210 miles white robes and untamed, uncut, black anxious anticipation, when we finally feeling parched and exhausted, we decided • 25-82 miles/day • Limited to first 25 people • Limited to first 25 people locks. The climb proved shorter and easier reached the loose, muddy slope piled high it was time for a short break. El Petén • Open to all than expected so we decided to enjoy a lei- on top of the road, it seemed relatively region was the perfect place to rejuvenate. surely lakeside picnic lunch. But mosquito harmless. Lifting bikes onto our shoulders, For a week, we concentrated on little swarms and thick jungle foiled this plan. we clambered two feet up, slid one foot more than swimming and sunning at pris- By chance, the alternative — plastic chairs down, then over and over until reaching tine Lake Petén Itzá, gorging on delicious thepeoplescoastclassic.org outside a tiny, sparsely stocked shop — the top, much to the amazement of the organic food at Finca Isabel in Poptun and

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 was a good reminder that our efforts to head into such challenging backcountry had been well worth it. Although I never look forward to the end of a bike tour, I have to admit that the final hill up to MayaPedal came with a sense of relief and satisfaction. My trusty local bike had done me proud! We celebrated our return bicilicuadora backroadsandbeachesohio.com with one last spin on the and www.visitloraincounty.com savored the banana-papaya smoothie that 800.334.1673 came as our reward. If you’ve got strong legs, a love of fruit and tortillas, and a pen- chant for riding mountain roads, there is an abundance of route possibilities through- out the Mayan kingdom in Guatemala and Mexico. Just get there soon before time runs out!

Cara is an avid adventurer, inspired to work on ways to improve global human health and well-being — and plans to bring her bike along for the journey.

Cass Gilbert is freelance cycling journalist and photog- rapher who is currently cycling south from Alaska. You can read more about his adventure on his blog at whileoutriding.com.

Discover Queen Anne’s County, Maryland …by bicycle!

Up, up, and away. Cara climbs one of the many steep, muddy tracks that she and Cass encountered on their Guatemala adventure.

straightforward beginning led us farther With darkness falling and the summit bottom of the climb, where we found what uphill than the point of no return, we fell still nowhere in sight, Cass snagged a timely turned out to be the best pizza shop in all into a familiar pattern of pushing, and camp spot — the only relatively flat piece of Guatemala. Having spent years working pushing, and pushing for hours. At least of hillside around — and we let our ach- in the U.S. (like so many Guatemalans), the our pushing muscles were well honed from ing muscles rest. On big climbs like this, I shop owner eagerly chatted with us, prac- many previous steeper-than-steep roads, think to myself: Be patient for the top and ticing his English, while we devoured his and our minds were attuned to the rhythm stay focused on where you are; it’s not over delicious thin-crust ham and cheese pies. of footfalls instead of pedal strokes. The until you can go nowhere but down. Early With the final Tres Cruces mystery handful of people we passed along the the next day we reached that point, marked solved, we unwound our tight and aching To view the Queen Anne’s County Bike Route Map, visit track shook their heads in disbelief, but by the Tres Cruces cell phone tower, and I muscles on easy but busier roads for the they reinforced with a casual wave of felt equal measures of victory and hunger! final stint back to San Andres de Iztapa. www.discoverqueenannes.com | [email protected] | 888.400.7787 the hand that Tres Cruces was “just over We scarfed a couple of stale muffins to tide Battling once more with Guatemala’s con- Queen Anne’s County Economic Development and Tourism, 425 Piney Narrows Rd, Chester, MD 21619 there.” us over until Pachalum, a busy town at the gested traffic and speeding chicken buses

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 The Wondrous Yucatán S tory and photos by Charles Lynch

t’s a balmy mid-March evening in on the peninsula. But something is bother- bly about 100 years older than anyone else. worse. What could possibly be worse? dle up, man up, cowboy up, or whatever. pounds. The rest of the gear consists of a Tulum, Mexico, and I’m relaxing at ing me. It’s not that I anticipate this trip will It’s not so much the age difference as the When the conversation turns toward The following morning, I reassemble few items of clothing camping gear, bicycle an outdoor table under a full moon be particularly dangerous or even that dif- realization that I have considerably more at me and the details of my trip, I cover my my bike and distribute all the gear into repair tools and necessities, spare batteries, with a group of other world travelers. ficult. I have, after all, survived two other stake than I did when I was in my reckless uneasiness by joking that my Spanish is so the proper panniers. Except for an empty a journal, a couple of guidebooks, energy I haven’t yet unpacked my gear or bicycle trips on this peninsula. This one, and rambling youth. Were it not for meet- bad that I might just spend all of my time fuel bottle that TSA has deemed a potential bars, and, of course, lots of water. I know checked my bike box to make sure every- though, promises to be significantly more ing my wife 28 years ago and benefiting here at the hotel drinking tequila instead of flight hazard, everything else is in good that I’m overpacked, but who knows what thingI has arrived safely. For now, I just ambitious and challenging. I’m heading from her vastly superior judgment, my life cycling. Bana, the oldest and most experi- shape. Without the fuel bottle, the stove is lies ahead? want to enjoy the good conversation and the further off the beaten path, into the remote could have been a bucket of sour grapes enced traveler at the table, speaks up. “Hey, useless so I store it in the bike box which Later that morning, I roll my trusty steel smooth agave tequila being passed around. interior of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, rather than the richly nuanced Bordeaux man,” he says, “You just gotta put yourself I’ll reuse when I return. Even without the steed out into the open courtyard to begin This hotel marks the starting point of my about which my online research has yielded that it is today. Everyone back home is con- out there. Your Spanish will improve as you stove, my bike is comically overloaded. The my southward journey. The small group of 16-day, 450-mile, solo bicycle trek to the only marginal travel information. cerned for my safety. My oldest daughter go along.” I appreciate his encouragement. bulk of the burden comes in the form of people from the night before gather around southwestern Yucatán, an area that contains As I look around at the young group of thinks that I’m in over my head and is sure After months of planning, poring over my photo gear, which occupies one entire to wish me well and regard the amount of the largest and most dense forest remaining travelers before me, I realize that I’m proba- that I’ll be robbed, abducted, murdered, or maps and online searching, it’s time to sad- rear pannier and weighs in at a hefty 25 stuff I’ve managed to stack on the bike. It’s almost like a mini press conference needs of bed, toilet, and shower. Cost, $15. the lakeshore the next morning, I sit down with clicking cameras and many questions. Nuts & Bolts: The Yucatán In the evening, I stroll over to a brightly lit to talk with Jagger. He is young and pas- Everyone seems to be genuinely excited. See: adventurecycling.org/mag/nandb steel structure where a group of adolescents sionate about his music, earnestly explain- Then I wave goodbye and wobble off down are engaged in a lively pick-up game of soc- ing how the quiet solitude of this part the road, half expecting my tires to blow cer. I see many of these structures along the of the lagoon inspires his acoustic guitar out or the bike frame to collapse under the route, and, judging by their similar appear- playing. I laugh out loud at a phrase he weight of its rider and gear. ance, they seem to have been designed and often repeats when describing the city and Although I’ve managed to put about constructed with government funds for the the life his friends and family always urge 200 miles on my new Novara Safari tour- benefit of the community. him to lead. “I don’t need! I don’t want! I ing bike, it hasn’t yet been tested under The next morning, I yearn to take the don’t like!” he says with marked determi- the weight of a full touring load. The flex turn off east that leads to the secluded nation. After two days of talking Spanish of the chromoly steel frame actually alarms coastal fishing villages of Majahual and with him, I feel the language barrier slowly me. It’s a completely different feel than my Xcalak. They’re located just south of Punta beginning to lift. Without the distraction aluminum hybrid frame. But, as I grow Allen, where I ended my last bike trip back of electricity or noisy generators, Laguana

accustomed to the flex, I notice how it in 2008. So many roads to explore but so r Bacalar is truly a captivating place. But, I o

also absorbs shock from bumps and small little time to indulge in side trips. In the yl must move on. ta holes in the road, leading to a much more town of Laguna Bacalar, the site of the By late morning the next day, I reach the comfortable ride. I’m so pumped up over second largest freshwater lake in Mexico, a junction of Highway 186 and head inland nathan these small but delightful discoveries and refreshing light rain descends. I just make (west), away from the city of Chetumal and the prospect of finally being on the road to Mayan heritage and the prosperity it brings it inside the door of an Internet café before the Caribbean coast. Almost immediately, Standing on the shoulders of giants. Charles admires the ruins of Kohunlich. adventure that, despite a late start, I cover to Mexico‘s citizens. Viva major! A better the tempest strikes in full force. After the humidity and heat begin to press in. the full 100 kilometers to Carillo Puerto by life! With all the signage and the robust, assuring my anxious family that I’m still There is still a light ocean wind at my era or lens, but they all get a big laugh sustain me until I can reach a large town. But the end of the first day. Arriving at the cen- eight-foot-wide, paved shoulder for pedes- alive, I hop back on the bike in search of back, but the scorching sun is relentless out of my FiveFingers footwear. Late that small villages with formal-sounding names tral plaza at dusk, I try to locate the hotel trians and cyclists, I feel completely safe. Botadero san Pastor, a rustic retreat men- and the heat is intensified by the blacktop. afternoon, on the way back from the ruins, such as Emiliano Zapata and Jesus Gonzalez my guidebook recommends and suddenly Considering that this is the only highway tioned in my Rough Guide book (I prefer Up ahead, a small family is selling fresh I stumble upon the all-inclusive, luxury Ortega keep turning up, enabling me to discover that it’s the same one my son Max between Cancun to the north and Chetumal this guidebook because it’s small enough to pineapple juice alongside the road, and I resort of Explorean Kohunlich. After five replenish liquids and snack on packaged and I stayed in on a previous bike trip six to the south, traffic is surprisingly light and fit neatly into my panniers and it’s packed gratefully gulp down two large bottles. It days of hard riding and basic accommoda- goodies. I peddle onward into the rising years earlier. Already I’m missing everyone. sporadic. Often I ride in complete silence for with essential travel details). It takes a few is absolutely the most refreshing and thirst- tions, the thought of a big, clean, comfort- heat, the old man and the bike, taking long Next morning, while continuing south several minutes at a time. tries but I finally spot the small, hand- quenching liquid I find on the entire trip. able bed, sumptuous food, and an open bar breaks in the shade of the concrete bus shel- on Highway 307, I come upon a large bat- In the late afternoon, I reach the small painted wooden sign that points down It seems, though, that I am now passing out creates an avalanche of free-falling capitu- ters scattered along the way. Traffic is even talion of workers and equipment busily town of Los Limones. There doesn’t appear a narrow dirt road in the forest. When I of the rich agricultural area I first entered lation that I’m helpless to overcome. The lighter here than in the north. The few cars engaged in a chip-seal operation. Each time to be any lodging in town so I ask the pro- break free of the trees, I am stunned by the in Los Limones, and that change brings a irony of passing up a free room in town to that whoosh past appear to be rentals from I return to the Yucatán, I see more and more prietor of a tienda (a small, locally owned sight of the sparkling turquoise and mauve halt to the fresh-squeezed juices. spend $200 on a luxury resort isn’t lost on Chetumal, heading toward the complex of road improvements. There are signs posted general store found in even the smallest waters. If it weren’t for the absence of white In Francisco Villa, I’m offered a free me. Still trying to rationalize the expense ruins surrounding Xpujil. There is a lot of every few kilometers reminding drivers to towns) if he knows of a place where I can sand, I’d swear that I was somewhere along room by a woman who operates a small while riding the next day, a whacked- strenuous up-and-down climbing now as I stay alert at the wheel, to obey the speed spend the night. He calls across the street the ocean of the Mayan Riviera. I’ve never restaurant in town. I’m genuinely touched out Looney Tunes character pops into my move out of the state of Quintana Roo and limit, to maintain a safe distance between to a woman who leads me to a plain single- seen a freshwater lake bursting with so by her kind gesture, but the sleeping mind. “Humans is the cwaziest peoples!” enter Campeche. The seven to eight liters of vehicles, and to keep the highway safe and story building with weathered wooden much color and natural beauty! arrangements seem a little awkward. For he wildly exclaims. Couldn’t have said it liquids I consume each day never seem to be secure by not littering. In addition, there are doors and shutters. It’s muy basico (very My screened wooden bungalow is only the time being, I opt to bike down a side better myself. quite enough. large billboards celebrating the region’s rich basic) but clean and answers my simple $7.50 a night. Because the owner, Armando, road to the ruins of Kohunlich, a Mayan Now that I’m almost completely drained That evening, after passing through a is on his way to town, I hand him $20 and city most famous for its surviving stucco of cash, I am determined to reach the ATM military checkpoint (be sure to leave your ask if he would be kind enough to bring masks. The guards here, while friendly in Xpujil 60 kilometers west by nightfall the weapons and drugs at home, kids), I hear my back some dinner and a six pack of beer. enough, are unusually strict and won’t next day. In this part of the trip, I’m uncer- right toe-clip scraping against the road. As I That evening, Armando, his girlfriend even allow a tripod or more than one cam- tain if I can find enough water and food to pull over to fix it, I get my first flat. It’s pitch Maria, and his part-time helper Jagger, and I sit down to dinner. The conversation is in rapid Español and it’s difficult to hold onto the basic thread — something about Maria having the same astrological sign as Liz Taylor and how the hurricane of 2008 destroyed many buildings along the lake but magically passed over this very site. Just outside the range of light that radiates from the lone candle on our table, an inky blackness blocks out the rest of the world, containing us in a separate time and space. It’s one of those magical moments that I instinctively realize will be one of the high- lights of this trip. “I don’t need, I don’t want, I don’t like.” Caretaker/musician Jagger strums his guitar. After taking some photographs along

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 with me. I’m now within the boundaries I spend my last day hiking around of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, a huge the trails near the campground, climbing swathe of land protected under federal law. a 30-meter wooden tower that overlooks I’m not sure what technicalities separate a the forest canopy, and turning over rocks forest from a jungle but the vegetation and looking for scorpions, spiders, and snakes deciduous trees here are more reminiscent — things I did as a kid growing up in the of what I would describe as a forest. It’s woods of New Jersey. Then, all too soon, steaming hot (mid-90s, I suspect), and I’m it’s time to bike back into Xpujil where I probably sweating out as much liquid as I will board a bus for Tulum and the long- can put in. The cold, sweet sodas and juices awaited reunion with my wife, Ursula. I find along the way are lifesavers. We have a romantic rendezvous scheduled After dinner in Conhuas, I follow some along the sandy, white beaches of the hand-painted signs to some newly built Riviera Maya. palapas (thatch-roofed huts with stucco There’s no doubt that this bicycle adven- walls and cement floors) in the backyard ture has been physically demanding (I’ve of a local family. It’s so hot and humid that shed over 10 pounds!), but my mind is clear even with the room fan going full blast, I and my spirits buoyed. Each return visit can’t sleep. Off in the east are flickers of to this peaceful peninsula brings renewed lightning and the faint rumble of thunder. appreciation for its amazing natural beauty Finally, the storm’s cooling breezes and and rich archeological heritage, which is Time travel. Charles rides past the ruins of Chicanna, where he was allowed to ride his bike. refreshing moisture bring relief and much why I continue to be perplexed by the needed sleep. absence of bicycle tourists. In my three vis- black now. The only light I can detect is from another to stand among them. You can’t I’m now in striking range of the Simple needs met. A room with a bed and a bathroom for $15 in Los Limones. its here, I have met only one other cyclist. the town of Xpujil, another five miles to the help but imagine the power and mystical Calakmul ruins, the crown jewel of the In ending this journey, I feel as if I have west. Of course, now that I’m immobilized appeal these massive structures once held Mexican Mayan empire and my final des- to drive me to the ruins in their rental car names and dates and pointing out architec- planted the seeds for another. and in total darkness, I nervously recall a over the general populace. This was a high- tination. I locate the Yaax Che campground the following morning. Sergey, the son, is tural details. The site, though, is so enor- couple of bandito stories casually told by the ly principled and structured society with listed in the Rough Guide the following an archeologist working at a Mayan site mous and imposing, the flora and fauna so Charles Lynch lives in Fort Collins, Colorado. The semi- travelers in the hotel back in Tulum. Trying strong religious beliefs, rich cultural tradi- morning and set up a base. There is no elec- near Oaxaca. Calakmul just happens to be rich, and my body and mind so worn out retired father of six is a published writer/photographer and adventure cyclist. For more information about to ignore my paranoia and the sinister figures tions, and complicated political alliances. tricity here but there are primitive toilet his area of study. He’s a wealth of knowl- from the long journey that I’m content to cycling the Yucatán, you can email him at rimrock lurking in the shadows of my imagination, I It’s mind-boggling to contemplate the pos- and shower facilities, and the proprietors edge, explaining the significance of Mayan just wander in this incredible place. [email protected]. fumble for my headlamp and get busy finish- sible circumstances that forced people of offer simple meals cooked over open fires. ing the repairs. such a highly organized society to abandon It’s still another 57 kilometers to the ruins, In Xpujil, I’d like nothing better than these imposing sites and scatter into the and there are no services or natural water- to visit all of the dozen or so ruin sites but surrounding forest. ing holes beyond this point. TWO must limit myself to seeing only Becán and On Day 9, I’m back on the road again, A raucous family of howler monkeys ...... Chicanná in order to have enough time left heading west toward the town of Conhuas. sounds the campground alarm early the COLORADO TOURS...... to complete the rest of the trip. It’s one Scores of black and yellow butterflies from next morning. Leaving some of my gear FOR 2012 thing to read about these ruins and quite the surrounding forest share the highway at the tent site, I point my bike south down the thin ribbon of paved road that Our Hidden Treasures cuts through the thick forest. By the time I reach the ruins, it’s mid-afternoon. I’m • Spectacular Scenery tired and nearly out of water but satisfied • National Landmarks to have officially reached the ending point • Spirited Tour Guides of the bicycle journey. Walking around in • Unique Accommodations the late-afternoon light, I spot howler and HIDDEN spider monkeys, ocellated turkeys, a group The Relaxed of five or six collared peccaries, and, on TREASURES Adventure Company the way back to the campground, I have Inn to Inn & Private Group Tours an improbable sighting of Señor de la Selva himself — jaguar, lord of the jungle! I snap a quick photo just before he slips away into the deep shade of the forest. Even though he appears as only a speck in my viewfind- Book by March 31st for er, enough physical detail exists to prove Early Bird to everyone back home that I haven’t just Discount bike tours taken a picture of someone’s pet dog. That evening, new visitors enter the campground, a mother and son from Russia Dakota Bike Tours operates under special use permit of the who speak almost perfect English. As we Black Hills National Forest dakotabiketours.com Rule the airwaves. Watching wrestling, fútbol, or soaps is popular at village tiendas. become acquainted, they graciously offer

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 by Rose Moore

t’s early July in the no man’s land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, and we’re trying — without success — Ito outrun a snowstorm. This is what they Tajikistan is for Cyclists mean when they say weather can change quickly in the mountains. An Australian, I’m horrified and try to persuade my hus- band Marcin to hide under a bridge until summer begins in earnest. He is Polish and commands me to ride on. It’s the beginning of one of the most arduous and spectacular sections of a trip from Japan to Poland, which is now into its eleventh month. Unfortunately, we have also not been able to cycle for the last six weeks due to mechanical problems (a bro- ken rim) and the exigencies of the Central Asian visa process. So we are setting out in a snowstorm, carried by four spindly underworked legs, to take on the Pamir Plateau. We are con- cerned about our ability to manage the altitude after getting sick on a 4,280-meter pass in China, and we have just passed the point of no return — the Kyrgyz border post is behind us, and a 20-kilometer climb awaits us before we cross the Kizil Art Pass (4,280 meters, again) and enter Tajikistan proper. We have been obsessively researching the Pamirs for months, peculiarly deter- mined to ride here after reading a number of accounts of the suffering it entails. We are under no illusions that we will enjoy something that has caused others great pain. We expect it to be one of the jewels of our journey, and we expect to enjoy it most in retrospect. This beginning then is more or less con- gruent with our expectations. I take a grim satisfaction in this as we pitch the tent in a sheep pen 10 kilometers before the pass for an extra night of acclimatizing. Tomorrow we will be on the Pamir plateau, and because we will not descend much below 4,000 meters for the next week, we are erring on the side of caution. Rather I am taking on the role of Acclimatization Nazi and demanding that we stop after only 35 kilometers of riding. It’s also my birthday so I’m exercising my rights. It snows off and on throughout the afternoon, interspersed with periods of blazing sun. Sometimes both occur simulta- neously. Marcin cleans my chain for me as a birthday present, and we eat a birthday meal of canned luncheon meat boiled up with potatoes in a yoghurt sauce. It con- tinues to snow throughout the night. We scare each other by speculating that the car that has been stopped on the road below our camp for several hours belongs to a gang of ruthless drug smugglers. Tajikistan, thanks to its long and porous border with

Afghanistan, is one of the world’s major PSON M opium conduits. This is not acknowledged

among the people in Tajikistan themselves ISSA THO L

E Nuts & Bolts: Tajikistan — we will later hear somebody claiming in M all seriousness that the glut of luxury cars Time of year to go: Summer! permit with the visa, otherwise populated and prone to extreme either a filter or iodine for puri- on the streets of Dushanbe is due to the It takes us almost two hours to ride to a wide, dry valley on a washboard road, Between early July and late it can be obtained from vari- weather. If you need shelter in fication unless you fancy end- fortunes that are made selling Tajik water- the pass on a sticky red road that is washed enveloped in desert silence. We are heading September is best — outside ous travel agencies online or in a hurry, only your own tent can less boiling or the possibility of melons in the Russian port of Murmansk. out in many places. It gets harder and hard- for the town of Karakul on the shores of a these times, be prepared for Dushanbe. Many travellers rec- guarantee it. There are no hotels explosive diarrhea. In the morning, it snows more. I grind er to get enough oxygen, but having expe- lake created by a meteor impact millennia bitter cold. ommend Stantours (stantours. in the Pamirs — paid accomoda- my teeth — enough is enough. But then it rienced the pounding headaches and queer ago, but there’s another 4,200-meter pass to com) for their prompt responses tions take the form of home- Transportation: To get to suddenly clears to a bright blue morning, sensations that indicate real problems with cross before we get there. Special equipment to bring: to email queries and their impar- stays, which on our route can the Pamirs, unless you fancy and we’re on our way to the pass. As we altitude, we are relieved to find that we are It’s a perfect afternoon for riding — the This is not a trip to take tial advice. Note that if you are be found in Karakul, Murghab, the long route from China or leave our camp, a battered Lada passes us, only gasping like a pair of emphysemics. sun shines, and the wind (which will tor- lightly. Proper preparation and entering from Kyrgyzstan by Mamazair, Alichur, and Langar. Kyrgyzstan, the best start is by leaning crazily to one side on the decrepit After border formalities, (our details are ment us ceaselessly in the coming days) research is crucial. Windproof, land, you need to have all this jeep from Dushanbe to Khorog. road, the driver peering through a shat- written in three ledgers and we are asked is giving us a friendly push from behind. waterproof and warm clothing is documentation in advance in Food: Food in the Pamirs is (you can also ride this section in There is no traffic whatsoever and no sign essential, even in summer, as is order to enter the country. very basic and you would be 5-10 days). From here you can of human habitation. It’s just us under a camping equipment, including a wise to carry several days’ begin to ride either on the Pamir huge sky with snowcapped peaks in all stove and some way of purifying Getting there and away: worth for most of this route. The Highway or up the Wakhan directions. It’s awe inspiring and not a little water . Bring anything which From Europe, the cheapest air- Lonely Planet comments that Valley. Transport from Khorog terrifying, and we feel a slight relief when may be needed to repair your line is Air Baltic (airbaltic.com) food is ‘unlikely to be a high- further east is patchy and we meet a group of four cyclists coming in bike- spokes and a Pamir hyper- which flies from most major light’ of your trip to Central Asia depends on the vehicle being the other direction. cracker deserve particular men- capitals to Dushanbe via Riga. and the Pamirs are a perfect full — the other option is to hire This will become the norm for us as we tion on rough roads. If you run There are no direct flights from example of this. Expect to find your own car and driver to take are heading the wrong way, and Tajikistan’s into mechanical difficulty and North America. Round trip flight the sight of a vegetable a rare you to wherever you want to growing popularity with European touring have to abort your ride, you may with KLM and Air Baltica via and lovely thing. If you are com- start your ride. cyclists guarantees a steady flow heading wait some time for a vehicle to Amsterdam and Riga from New ing specially to ride the Pamirs, east from early summer onward. Many of pass, and chances are it will York will cost about $2,900. it would not be excessive to Web: Rose has written exten- these cyclists are Swiss, thanks to the strong be packed to the rafters when bring some dehydrated meals sively about her journeys at cra- development links between the two coun- it does. Route: From the the Tajik/ from home with you. The bazaar zyguyonabike.com/search/?quer tries that exist partly because the Aga Khan Kyrgyz border to Langar on the in Murghab provides an oppor- y=rose+moore&type=all (the supreme leader of Ismaili Muslims, Visas and permits: To travel in Afghan/Tajik border. tunity to restock — you can find which has a strong foothold in the Pamirs) the Pamirs you will need a Tajik staples like pasta and canned The Travelling Two: An was born and raised in Switzerland. visa and a permit to travel to Maps: The favourite is the fish, as well as some fresh food excellent resource for people But this is the first of many encoun- the Gorno-Badakhshan region Marcus Hauser map of the and snacks. There are shops in interested in bicycle travel, they ters with fellow riders, and we exchange of the country (GBAO permit). Pamirs, available in Khorog and Langar and Alichur, with a lim- focused their “10 Questions” information with gusto. In an inversion A tourist visa can be received Murghab, or online from gecko ited selection of foodstuffs. segment on the Pamir Glorious gateway. Rose poses before a small ramshackle village in Tajikistan. of the desire to shoot the messenger, we at the airport when arriving in maps.com. Highway at travellingtwo.com/ feel especially fond of them when they tell Dushanbe by plane, though Water: Easy to find, especially resources/10questions/pamir- tered windscreen. It’s a moment worth belligerently what we want by an old man us that we are more or less on the second some nationalities need a Letter Accommodations: At a pinch early in the summer when the highway. noting because we won’t see another car all doing a crossword under a sleeping bag in pass for the day. It turns out that we have of Invitation to make use of this and with some research you snow melts. However, there day — the recent upheaval in Osh, a large a shipping container, who is presumably descended so little, or climbed so gradually, service. There is also a Tajik might do this route without a are sheep and other animals city in southern Kyrgyzstan means that this one of the border guards), we are finally in that we are almost at 4,200 meters again. embassy in New York. Some tent, but bear in mind that the (besides humans) on the pla- remote highway is being used even less Tajikistan. There is a great mingling of trep- Soon after leaving them, we crest the Uy embassies issue the GBAO Pamir Plateau is very sparsely teau and you will need to carry than usual. idation and excitement as we bump down Bulak Pass and see the heart-stopping blue

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 expanse of Karakul beneath us. It has been that it will be all downhill from here to a worthy first day of cycling in Tajikistan. Poland. It’s obviously a moronic idea, but Over the next few days, we fall into a it cheers us up. Neither of us will confess rhythm. We get hungry, we get tired, we to it until later. get sunburned, and hot and cold. There is a In the morning, we climb the pass, a lot of heavy breathing of a non-erotic vari- short stiff climb, wheezing as usual. On ety. We cook up meals on our camp stove, top, Marcin wants to stop and “soak up the which we would not touch under other atmosphere” of this significant location. circumstances, and eat them with gusto. We hide behind a rock to avoid the wind We learn that lentils will not cook at 4,300 and find a desiccating turd in our mystical meters ( the boiling temperature of water is haven. too low). We cannot stop marveling at the My brake mounts are broken after suf- high-altitude light, the mountains, and the fering a mysterious blow and the brake It’s a perfect afternoon for riding — the sun shines and the wind is giving us a friendly push from behind.

wide expanse of sky. We sleep like stones. pads shift around in an unnerving manner, the son of the family who runs our home- All downhill to Poland. Marcin descends one of the many long passes the couple rode over in Central Asia. After a day’s ride from Karakul — part so I try to brake gingerly when necessary stay finds the missing piece of the mount, of it a long and gradual climb on an awful and not at all when possible. In this man- which has fallen off in the barn. He man- into the Pamir River Valley on the Afghan jeep track that leads over the pass. Buying stockpiled by the locals, so we end up buy- road into a raging headwind — we camp ner, we enjoy a fine descent from the pass ages to screw it back on with a long screw border, will become much more difficult. food in the bazaar (an assortment of ship- ing some from our homestay family. at the foot of the Ak-Baital Pass. This is toward Murghab and a rest day. It is here he has lying around. We also have to stock up at the bazaar as ping containers strung out along the river) In the morning, we ride off in the the highest pass on the Pamir Highway, that my left brake mount gives way entirely It’s a stressful way to spend our day off we expect to find no food for at least two and finding some petrol for our stove takes direction of Alichur, battling a headwind and it marks both a mental and physical and falls off the bike. Luckily I’m not rid- because without front brakes, our next days after Alichur, where we will turn off us most of the afternoon. The petrol sta- that has by now become constant. We watershed for us. We both secretly think ing it at the time and even more luckily, stage over the Karghush Pass and down the Pamir Highway and onto the remote tion doesn’t sell fuel because it has all been ride all day, stopping only to refuel at

PLANO/POWER HYBRID EYEWEAR ®

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 TGFT-AdventureCyclist-12a.pdf 1 12/12/11 1:49 PM

the Mamazair homestay where we are fed keeps a herd of yaks and has a number of sant wind. a rest. As it turns out, this day will be potatoes and macaroni with a bowl of yak windburned offspring who make them- The incessant wind, we will be remind- one of the most beautiful rides we have cream as a side dish. The owner of the selves useful cooking bread (the girls) and ed, is not only a feature of the winter ever had, sandy road notwithstanding. We homestay lives here year round (it’s about taking care of the animals (the boys.) We months. It hits us in the face as we cross have spectacular views of the Pamir River 4,000 meters above sea level and right in try, and fail, to imagine what it would be the Nayzaytash Pass and start to ride down and, later in the day, the Hindu Kush. We the path of a whistling wind), and it’s his like to pass a winter here — temperatures the Alichur Valley. Knowing the road was stop again and again to take photos, and a job to keep the Nayzaytash Pass open. He down to -40 degrees Celsius and that inces- good, we had hoped to make it all the number of times tourists in jeeps poke their Sunday - June 3, 2012 way to Alichur, but we eventually give up cameras out the window and photograph Stateline/Lake Tahoe, NV/CA - 21st Annual America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride. This ride promotes Lake Tahoe Bikeway, the plan to build and interconnect after 87 kilometers and set up camp on a us. It provokes a private glee as we pedal bike lanes/trails around Lake Tahoe, and is the culmination of the Leukemia & yurt site that is still not inhabited. In the along insouciantly, pretending it’s easy. Lymphoma Society's National Team In Training spring morning, we meet the owner of the not-yet- It’s only when the forgotten smell of grow- fund raising program. 3000 participants. erected yurt, who has spied us from afar ing things pervades our nostrils that we real- and come to invite us for a cup of tea. He is ize how barren the landscape has been since Sunday - June 24, 2012 setting out to walk to Alichur, another 20 we first climbed above the tree line almost Genoa, NV - 5th Annual Tour of the beautiful Carson Valley and Barbecue & Ice Cream Social. 44-Mile, 20-Mile Bike & Hike & Family Fun Ride. Live kilometers down the road. two weeks ago. We are off the plateau and by music, BBQ & Ice Cream Social. We aren’t far from the beautiful Akbalyk the time we finish our day, we will be below spring, and in the morning we stop off at 3,000 meters for the first time since arriv- Sunday - Sept 9, 2012 the tiny restaurant there for some fried fish. ing in Tajikistan. As we descend toward the Lake Tahoe, NV - 10th Annual. Another opportunity to enjoy the end We fill all our water bottles and our water haven of Langar on a bed of fist-sized rocks, of summer and ride around Tahoe’s 72-mile shoreline. It will also offer our famous sightseeing Boat Cruise / 35-Mile Fun Ride. Limited bags from the spring. We have heard there the green banks of the Pyanj River beckon- to 2000 participants. is no water between Alichur and the pass. ing, we declare ourselves satisfied with the

The wind mercifully has not picked up, eastern Pamir and look forward to follow- ONE Sept 23 - 29, 2012 AWESOME TOUR and as we turn for Karghush, we find that ing the river west (and downhill, of course) 21st Annual “One Awesome Tour Bike Ride Across Nevada.” Fully U.S. supported multi-day tour across the Silver State on US Hwy 50 - America’s BIKE 50 we are somewhat sheltered. We’re heading toward Poland. RIDE Loneliest Road, from the beauty of Lake Tahoe to the grandeur of the Great ACROSS south through a valley on a road that — Basin National Park. Limited to 50 riders. A partial ride option may be NEVADA America’s Loneliest Bike Tour we are gratified to find — is every bit as Rose Moore is an Australian who currently lives with her husband in Warsaw. The trip through Tajikistan available depending on rider signups and interest. horrible as we have been led to believe. It described in this article was part of a longer trip from is not only corrugated but also very sandy, Tokyo to Warsaw. More can be read about that trip at For More Info call 1-800-565-2704 and as the afternoon proceeds, it becomes crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1&doc_id=5756&v=18K. or go to bikethewest.com steep as well. We stop for lunch at a salt lake populated by birds and some sort of red shrimp. When the wind blows, a putrid smell drifts toward us. And this is not even “Stinky Lake,” which we have already passed on the highway. As the afternoon wears on, we climb and climb on the bad road. The pass is at 4,344 meters, and we don’t reach it until late in the day. It has been one of the hard- est rides so far — we have estimated 21 kilometers from highway to pass from our map, and when it turns out to be 22, the final kilometer seems eternal. But then a view of the magnificent Koh-i-Pamir range in Afghanistan opens up before us and we are rocketing downhill to the police checkpoint at Karghush in beautiful late- afternoon light. We are slightly apprehen- sive, having heard that the soldiers here have a reputation for robbing people, but we pass the checkpoint without even stop- ping and ride on until we are out of sight before pitching camp beside the Pamir +PHOTO: COLIN MEAGHER River. Afghanistan is on the other side, and Afghan dogs bark all night. In the morning, it’s hard to move. I am tired enough to cry because I drop our spoon in the sand and can’t find it. On the other hand, we are only 60 kilometers Not your KOA. A stone wall on a high pass provides just enough refuge for the campers. from Langar and have promised ourselves

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 PORTUGAL - WILLIE WEIR - 1

he air is cold and scented tresses, charming cities, coastal cliffs, and sandy with pine. beaches. It’s as if you took an entire continent and We exhale visible squeezed it with an enormous vise. Wine of the People: Tpuffs of vapor. The road is steep, Because of its small size, Portugal is often an steep enough that we wish the afterthought, an add-on to a larger European bike engineers had put in a few tour. You could pedal across it, from west to east, in more switchbacks instead a couple of days and be onto your next European Pedaling Northern Portugal of angling straight up the country if you wished. If you resist that temptation mountain pass. and linger, Portugal will reward you for it. We summit, breathing, Small can be an incredible advantage. Imagine if, no, wheezing heavily, our in the midst of a bike journey across the U.S. (let’s hearts thumping in our say you’re in South Dakota), you turned to your chests. travel partner and suggested you head back to the The view takes the West Coast because the weekend weather report rest of our breath away looked favorable. Your partner would most certainly — jagged peaks above suggest that you have your head examined. and a road winding And yet that is entirely logical in Portugal. down through a perfectly Weather looking bad up in the mountains where formed U-shaped glacier you are pedaling near the Spanish border? Just head valley. west, you’ll be at the coast in no time. You could We bundle up and soak up some sun on the beach and then pedal back glide for the next 15 kilo- up into the mountains. meters. Flanked by sheer If you glanced at the map of our route through rock walls to our right and Portugal, you’d swear we were in a constant drunken the glacial Zêzere River to stupor or that we just couldn’t make up our minds. our left. In two and a half months, we crossed Portugal no Our faces are numb from less than six times as we meandered our way from the decent, making smiling north to south. difficult, but we manage. My partner Kat and I began our journey in Our effortless descent is Madrid, Spain, and entered Portugal’s northeastern interrupted by a traffic jam of border on September 19. sheep and goats. They are prod- I’m not sure if it’s because we are getting older, ded forward by an energetic shep- or wiser, or older and wiser, but we are slowing herd and the mellowest sheep dog down. It takes an entire day to travel 40 or 50 miles we’ve ever encountered. His master when you linger over a bottle of wine for lunch or is doing all the work. He’s not just call- get invited to join the local work party. ing and yelling. He whistles, he chirps, West of the city of Bragança, after stopping to he mimics the bleats of goats, the baas of feast on some ripe figs hanging over the narrow sheep, the sharp call of a hawk. These are two-lane road, we came upon a group harvesting by Willie Weir sounds we are certain he learned from his grapes. The owner, we assumed, a young man with father, passed on from his great-grandfather. frosted hair and clean hands, was overseeing the We slowly pass through the flocks and continue picking. He seemed uninterested in the traveling down the winding road. The tinkling bells on the cyclists. But the moment we asked him about his necks of the animals, like a thousand distant ice land, he came to life and was delighted to answer cream carts, slowly fade away. our questions. This is my vision of Portugal, for now. Tomorrow The workers, about 20 men and women ranging it will change, as it will the next day. in age from 18 to 50, were hunched over with hand For a small country about the size of the state pruners, chatting and laughing as they clipped of Indiana, Portugal packs in an incredible array bunches of grapes. They filled smaller plastic bas- of travel wonders — glacial valleys, meandering kets that were dumped into larger baskets, where rivers, stately vineyards, olive groves, ancient for- the burliest men then hoisted and dumped them into the metal containers on an old tractor was sticky with a mixture of soil, sweat, and from our water bottle was not subtle or Our coastal road turned into a bike path, trailer. grape juice. He laughed and squeezed hard. refined or worthy of a rating. It was tangy which connected to a grand pedestrian and The owner filled one of our water bot- The wine of the people that we drank and a bit sour. But it was wine with a story bicycle boulevard. tles with last year’s wine. These grapes and a handshake, and we loved it. We grabbed a cute little room the size wouldn’t make it into a bottle with a label Nuts & Bolts: Portugal This was our first western European of a small ship’s cabin near one of the main at the market or wine store. This was wine See: adventurecycling.org/mag/nandb bike trip, and we were concerned that we squares. There wasn’t a place for our bicy- of the people, stored in huge glass bottles would blow through our budget. Portugal cles in the room, but the proprietors were protected by a woven plastic mesh. is surprisingly affordable, and wild camp- more than happy to allow us to lock our “Do you want to try?” the owner asked. ing is a breeze. Outside of the major tourist bikes to the banister of the staircase leading He handed me a pair of clippers. areas, if there isn’t a fence around it, you up to the front desk. Why not? For the next 15 minutes, I can camp there. This allowed us to set off on foot along clipped away. He said I was very good, We camped near vineyards and under the cobblestone streets and explore the very fast. Of course, everyone around me eucalyptus forests. We pitched our tent in main boulevards and back alleys. We had already been working for seven hours. meadows and woke to the sounds of herds strolled through art galleries and gardens, Each worker would be paid 14 Euros for of sheep and friendly shepherds. When walked along the waterfront, and stopped a full day’s work. we wanted a shower, we camped at one of more than occasionally in the pastry shops. The tractor driver, a ruddy-faced, bar- the many municipal campgrounds for 5 to The university was just beginning its fall rel-chested man with a beaming smile, 10 Euros. They were clean and virtually classes, and large groups of students in pointed to a crate of grapes and insisted empty because we were cycling outside traditional black capes paraded around that we take them all. I’m not sure how he the peak season. And when wild camp- the city, often stopping to sing or chant seemed appropriate to pedal up to those Kat’s birthday (timing is everything!). expected us to pack 25 pounds of grapes ing or campgrounds weren’t available, we (all part of the initiation for the incoming vineyards and see where our port wine had But the following morning brought clear, onto our bikes. knocked on a door and asked if we could class). begun. cold blue skies and we pedaled through the We thanked the landowner and the camp on a farmer’s property or in a family’s We walked over the bridge across the The road winds its way upriver, some- peak of fall color, traversing endless miles workers for their time and gifts. I reached garden. Rio Douro and explored the wine lodg- times near the edge of the bank of the of vineyards that dripped with fruit. We up to shake the hand of one of the men on The money we saved allowed us to es on the opposite bank. We tasted the Douro and sometimes leaving it for long were surrounded by screaming red and top of the large metal containers heaped splurge on hotels. Portugal’s main cities bright ruby ports and the aged and earthy climbs to scenic vistas. yellow leaves. EENE

with grapes. His hands being dirty, he are easy to access by bicycle. We pedaled R tawny ports, all made from grapes grown But we hit the first cold rains of the As the sun approached that low angle in G offered me his elbow. into and out of all of them. The northern- Y in demarcated vineyards far up the Douro. season and hunkered down in our tent for the sky and we begin to scan for a place to

I shook my head and grabbed his hand. It most coastal city of Porto was a breeze. CASE After four glorious days in Porto, it only 36 hours, during which time we celebrated camp, a voice called out. It was hard to find

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 the person attached to it among the vast rows of grapes. A cap, a smile, and a wave drew our attention to an old man peeking above huge rows of grapevines. Dreaming of Summer? Within minutes he had clipped off bunches of no less than seven varieties of We are too... grapes and displayed them for us to try. He was giddy with excitement over sharing his harvest with two cycling strangers. We tasted tiny, almost clear grapes; light green grapes the size of your thumb; and others the color of a rose petal. They were all sweet and delicious, but one dark-blue/purple grape was the single best grape I’ve ever tasted. It was earthy, robust, and complex. It didn’t need to be made into wine. It had already achieved greatness. We camped next to those grapevines Then the economic crisis hit — and and watched the sunrise light up thou- it hit hard in Portugal. Job opportunities sands of acres of vineyards in the Douro disappeared as fast as the buyers for all the Valley. This was wine country’s version of a new homes now sitting vacant across the New England fall. country. We coasted down toward the Douro She’d heard there was possible work in River on a magical ribbon of road. Not a Angola, and she thought of going there. single vehicle passed us. But she’d rather not leave Portugal to look Our time in northern Portugal was spent for work. A twist of fate found her in the www.co-motion.com • (866) 282-6336 on over a thousand miles of beautiful low- same position her father was in, except she trafficked roads that were eerily quiet at had an advanced degree and the debt that times. So were many of the small villages went with it. we passed through. At times we wondered She tries not to dream too big these whether entire villages had decided to go days. It only depresses her. Life goes on, on holiday together. Where were the peo- and you hope things will change, she said. ple? Especially the younger people? An entire generation’s hopes and dreams Then I remembered one of the first con- have been put on hold. versations I’d had in Portugal. She’d love to make enough money to It was in Miranda do Douro, just across travel the world, but you can’t do that the border from Spain. Hotels were run- behind the desk of a municipal camp- ning for 30 to 50 Euro; the municipal camp- ground. ground was five. “Do you know how fortunate you are to But this wasn’t your average municipal be traveling the way you do?” she asked. campground. This one sported a stunning I changed the subject. view of the town’s cathedral. It was only a We chatted some more, and I had to 10 minute walk from the town center. apologize for my entire country when she The young woman who checked us mentioned a recent report in which an into the campground quickly switched embarrassing percentage of Americans to English when she found out we didn’t identified Portugal as a city in Spain. speak Portuguese. “Americans don’t get out much,” I joked. I went back to the office after I’d set up Then it was time for me to go. She our tent. I wanted to know her story. needed to check in a French couple in a Her father, like most of the men of his camper trailer. generation, didn’t go to school beyond the I walked back to our tent. Kat and I fourth grade. He had to work in the fields. gazed at the cathedral up on the hill bathed Sometimes the family had to travel beyond in the orange glow of the sunset and won- Portugal to find work. dered if we’d ever truly understand just She, on the other hand, had graduated how fortunate we are. from high school and gone on to get her masters in zoology and animal science. The Willie and Kat’s adventure will pick up in Lisbon and future looked so much brighter for her head south in the July issue of Adventure Cyclist. generation.

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 GEARED UP - 1

Geared Up

other artificial light. It no BPA as the Mastercard commercials remind Cycling stuff for spring also features two involved, us, is priceless. by Mike Deme side windows includ- that emit light to ing the RideOut Carbon Comfort Saddle provide visibility vacuum seal ($85, rideouttech.com, 208-899-7609) from the side and of the cap. On Throughout the entire existence of a click mount that top of that, the bicycle, inventors have been try- fits handlebars of you can get ing to devise a comfortable platform Lazer Sphere Aeroshell ($20), 22 to 32 millimeters the S’well in on which to sit when operating one of ($99, lazersport.com) a snap-on cover in diameter. a variety of col- the many varieties of upright machines. Ever since I changed my photo on the that protects ors and it fits in a It seems a central focus has been the Letter from the Editor page, I’ve been you from rain, S’well Bottle standard bicycle elimination of the nose of the saddle. It getting emails asking me what kind of snow, and wind. ($35, swellbottle.com) water-bottle cage. doesn’t take much imagination to realize helmet I was wearing when it was taken. Granted, to some $35 for a water bottle! I know, you’re Of course, you can’t that a saddle without a nose might crack Most of the inquiries are made because degree, this thinking I’ve finally and completely lost squeeze a steel bottle, people like the slim profile of the bucket. cover defeats my mind. Maybe you’re right, but hear me but they make great backup bottles and It’s happened so often it got me thinking the purpose of the out. Think about it, you probably spend store nicely in panniers. If you’re trav- that I should find some helmets that are many vents, but when it’s that much on gourmet, handcrafted cof- els take you through extremely hot or similar in shape. The Lazer Sphere comes 10 degrees out or it’s pouring rain, fee in 10 days. And if you’re the type who cold climates, the insulating qualities pretty close but is a bit larger, which the advantage of the shield may appeal uses the magical brown bean at every of the S’well bottle will come in some may like (I’ve been scolded for to some. In addition you can a add win- turn to keep yourself in perpetual motion, handy. wearing a helmet that clearly, according ter padding kit ($20) and an insect net the 17-ounce stainless steel S’well bottle If you’re socially conscious, it’ll to some readers, ($20). — or not (my preference), will keep your precious energy-providing warm your insides to know that reflective material incorporated through- liquid hot for anywhere between 6 to 12 S’well donates 10 percent of sales to Louis Garneau HRS-80 out the shoe’s features, an EVA (Ethylene hours, depending on conditions. Similarly, WaterAid, an organization dedicated to ($109, louisgarneau.com/ca-en/prod Vinyl Acetate) and ultralight rubber out- it will keep your cold liquids cold within a providing safe drinking water around uct/ 305568/1487094/View_All/ sole, a lace closure mechanism (no tying), range of 16 to 24 hours. the world. the comfort code but there’s a problem TERRA_VENT _SHOES) and velcro closures over the laces and How does it do it? ThermaS’well tech- So, the S’well bottle gives you a — the nose isn’t so useless as to be cast If you’re in the mar- at the rear of the shoe. And the HRS-80 nology, that’s how (check the website for whole bunch of technology and makes aside cavalierly. Quite to the contrary, ket for a good sum- is quite light, weighing in at around 12 details). It works pretty well, and there’s you feel good at the same time, and that, the nose provides a steering and stabiliz- mer touring shoe, ounces (340 grams). And like most cycling check out the shoes, walking is pretty comfortable with- Terre Vent out cleats, a bit less so with them. HRS-80. It’s a hybrid Sigma Lightster shoe that ($35, sigmasport.com, 630-761-1106) offers If you’re interested in a simpler, less plenty of costly lighting option that still meets ventilation the German stVZO standard, you should (including check out the Sigma Lightster. It only a vent in offers one option — on — and it burns the sole) to for 20 hours. This sure makes it simple keep your to operate when you’re wearing gloves. feet from It doesn’t have an integrated battery won’t help when I wipe out.) overheating, but is powered by four double AA bat- It’s got 21 vents, weighs just a bit over something that many people don’t even teries (rechargeables are included). The 9 ounces (260 grams), and incorporates realize causes a lot of discomfort when light emitted is like nothing I’ve seen beefy, color-coded, user-friendly straps. riding long miles. You know what they before in bicycle lighting. The best way Unique to upper-end Lazer helmets is say, if you’re head and feet are happy, so to describe it is this: two rectangles, one the Rollsys Retention System which is are you. on top of the other. The top rectangle activated by a scroll wheel on top of The HRS-80 offers a lot of nice features is smaller, brighter, whiter, and is cen- the helmet and snugs the rigid internal besides ventilation including pull tabs on tered over the bottom rectangle. It’s very brace system nicely to your skull. The the tongue and at the back of the shoe, a efficient and precise, and I find it very Sphere also accepts the optional Lazer stiff sole that can accommodate SPD cleats adequate when riding where there is no

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 ing device that can be quite useful to the bottles up to 9.5 inches around, waterproof roll closure which is secured skilled rider. Some might argue differently, SciCon Micro Tools Hipo 550 ($60, which is about the size of standard by 2 tabbed elastic pull cords that attach but I’ll defend the saddle nose as some- sciconbags.com/index.php/en/component/ water bottle. to mounts on each side of the bag. Beneath thing to hang on to. djcatalog2/items/13-micro-tools-bags) All Revelate products are designed the mount mechanism on the Micro is In the interest of our readers, I’ve tried For those with Spartan tastes who like to take a beating and are hand sewn a stiffener which provides support and many alternative saddles since 1994. The to keep things simple, the Hipo 550 is a in Alaska by Eric Parsons, and many, structure. It comes in orange, lime green, verdict on each has varied from accept- spare little bag that weighs only 5 ounces including the Feedbag, are able to downright laughable. The RideOut (137 grams), attaches to the rails on your available through Adventure Carbon Comfort approaches the problem saddle, and consists of a single pocket Cycling’s Cyclosource catalog of discomfort differently, and, finally, that zips open and closed. The singular and online store (adventure I’m sold on a non-standard saddle. Much feature that makes the bag intriguing is cycling.org/store). You can see of the reason is the attachment system. Once the hardware more revealing photos of the because the Carbon is assembled and connected to the saddle Feedbag at revelatedesigns. Comfort actually rails, the bag itself simply snaps into place by road cyclists as well but they typically com/blog/index.cfm/2011/05/31/New- has a nose. It may by twisting clockwise onto the locking work best on mountain bike frames. The Mountain-Feed-Bags. be reduced in size device and is held in place when the red Feedbag is a good example of this. The and less prominent slider mechanism is engaged. It just as 3.6-ounce bag attaches to your bike at Ortlieb Micro than on a standard easily comes off by disengaging the slider 3 points by a 1.5-inch velcro handlebar ($26, ortliebusa.com/CartGenie/ saddle, but it’s and twisting counterclockwise. No tools strap, a .75-inch velcro stem strap, and a prod-225.htm or ortlieb.com, 800- there. Significantly, are required for any of the steps, including tension strap that wraps around your fork 649-1763) though, the installation. crown. This 3-point attachment system If you’re looking for a light- reduced size does SciCon throws in a micro tool and 2 provides excellent stability and, because weight waterproof saddlebag, look no and black and features a reflective patch eliminate much tire levers to make the bag more attractive all 3 points move together, steering your further than the Ortlieb Micro. This for additional visibility. The Ortlieb Micro of the numbness to those looking for a way to carry a few bike is not affected. If your road bike has a single-pocket, 4.9-ounce PU-coated nylon is available through Adventure Cycling’s caused by stan- important items along on their rides. fork crown, you might be in luck, but it’s bag holds 36.5 cubic inches of stuff and Cyclosource catalog and online store (adventure dard-length saddle not the bike the Feedbag is designed for. keeps them dry. It attaches to your saddle cycling.org/store). noses. But’s this is Motorex Bicycle Products The Feedback can hold a wide range rails by a 2-screw mount. Once attached, not the only reason (Prices vary, motorexbicycle.com, 763- of items you’d like have handy including the bag clips on and off easily. It has a the Carbon Comfort 417-1377) is so effective. Equally important are the Swiss company Motorex has been in dimensions of the saddle. At 7.5 inches fort on long rides. the business of providing quality lubricat- A salute to craftsmanship long and 8.75 inches wide, the platform Admittedly, it took a bit of getting used ing products for over 90 years and they provides excellent area on which your to, but, after a week or so of using the provide a full bicycle line that includes Bike Friday’s To celebrate our 20 years, we weight can spread, alleviating pressure Carbon Comfort, I’ve decided to leave it on Bike Clean degreaser ($15), Wet and Dry 20th Anniversary designed the ultimate touring on the perineal nerve, which is often the my touring bike. Lube ($9), Bike Shine ($17), and more. Bike Friday, and dressed it up cause of discomfort and numbness (and At 13.4 ounces (380 grams), and with One of the reasons I like Motorex, in New World Tourist. with the best of American some say sexual dysfunction) when rid- a Kevlar reinforced cover, the Carbon addition to the fact that the products are Made in the USA cycling craftsmanship. ing. In addition each side of the Comfort Comfort offers an excellent option for top notch and work very well, is that Carbon is raised allowing even less pres- those who might like to try something a they don’t sponsor professional cyclists or Adventure Cycling members, earn sure on the perineal nerve while allowing bit different to sit on when riding a stan- any other athletes. In other words, they $150 toward shipping on any new Bike ® Friday until March 31. air flow, which also adds a degree of com- dard upright bike. believe in their product enough to skip BIKE FRIDAY that method of promotion, allowing the Custom folding and travel bicycles hand-crafted in Oregon SINCE 1992 20th Anniversary New World Tourist USA performance of their merchandise to speak Visit BikeFriday.com touring / road / mountain /commuter /tandem for itself — certainly rare in these days PROMO CODE: 1841 For 2012 catalog call 800-777-0258 (although they do have a Facebook page and a Twitter account — yippie! — in case you want to follow their every excit- ing move.) Motorex also considers it important to be environmentally conscious in regard to the biodegradability and cre- ation of their products. For more about this, you can visit motorex.com/index. cfm?oid=1153&lang=en.

Revelate Feedbag ($39, revelatedesigns.com, 907-301-6678) Revelate Designs makes a variety of products designed for off-road ultralight bikepacking. Many of these can be used

42 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 43 In 2011, Adventure Cycling Association saw record levels of donations, press coverage, and social media participation, along with high numbers of maps sold, tour participants, and visitors to our 2011 Annual Report Missoula, Montana, headquarters. It was a banner year! Adventure Cycling Association

Dear Adventure Cycling Members,

2011 — 35 years since the launch of Bikecentennial — was one of Adventure Cycling’s best years, Adventure Cycling Association continues to thanks to you, our members, staff, and volunteers. Because of your loyalty and generosity, we created new routes, made cycling history, improved cycling conditions, and provided lots of inspiration! pursue our three strategic initiatives: New Routes: After finishing the Sierra Cascades Bicycle Route, our cartographers completed the • Creating Bike Routes for the Nation Underground Railroad Detroit Alternate. We researched the first half of Bicycle Route 66, and revamped dozens of existing routes and maps. Because of dramatic increases in truck traffic, we also • Getting More People Traveling by Bicycle re-routed the Northern Tier and Lewis & Clark routes to improve safety on these routes.

• Supporting Bicycling Communities Making History: Enormous efforts by staff and volunteers resulted in the first new official U.S. Bicycle Route approval in nearly 30 years — and we have now engaged 40 states in planning for new U.S. Bicycle Routes!

Improving Cycling Conditions: With other national groups, we won a major battle to rewrite national technical guidance on the use of rumble strips to emphasize cyclists’ needs. We successfully helped oppose efforts to undercut federal funding and policy support for cycling. And, we’re building new partnerships with the National Park Service, state departments of transportation, and tourism bureaus to promote and improve the bicycle-travel experience.

Providing Inspiration: Our staff continues to do what you love best, which is to share expertise and stories about bicycle travel. We published (and won a national award for) Adventure Cyclist magazine. We expanded and improved our website, forums, blog, and social media sites, and added two new websites: one brings together hundreds of bike-travel blogs (BicycleTravelBloggers.org), and another promotes short 1-2 night bike trips (BikeOvernights.org), the “gateway drug” to bike touring.

Through it all, you inspired and supported us. Some of you (1,100!) cycled to our office and many of you shared beautiful stories and pictures. More than ever, you joined, renewed, made donations, and bought maps. We now have more than 1,600 life members, and our Life Member Fund made the down payment to expand our Missoula headquarters. By this summer, we’ll have new space for our outstanding staff and volunteers to help you fulfill your bicycle-travel dreams.

Thanks so much for your support and enthusiasm — and for making 2011 one of the best years ever for Adventure Cycling and bicycle travel!

Carol York E L President

EG SIP EG

R Adventure Cycling Board of Directors G

Adventure Cycling life member Bill Montigny has cycled across r America 14 times. He always stops by our office when Missoula aghe

is on his route, and Greg Siple always takes a picture. This photo ll ga of photos within photos took more than 20 years to compose. The Most of Adventure Cycling’s staff in a moment of silliness ek E r inside our headquaters in Missoula, MT. first photo is from 1989 and the last is from his 2011 crossing. L de EG SIP R G Adventure Cycling Association is North America’s largest nonprofit California, Michigan, New England, Ontario, and South Dakota, the • The U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) garnered national and regional bicycling membership organization. Our mission is to inspire people Mid-America Trails and Greenway Conference, the AASHTO Special headlines as the work to create an official network of bike routes gained of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun, and self-discovery. Commitee on U.S. Route Numbering meeting, and the Paul S. Sarbanes momentum. In May 2011, AASHTO approved the first new U.S. Bike We enrich lives and connect communities by creating state-of-the- Transit in Parks peer group meeting. We also held many regional gatherings Routes in more than 30 years. Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood wrote a art bike routes and maps, leading unique bike tours, publishing the with our members from California and Indiana to Colorado and Virginia. widely distributed blog post about the new routes and growth of the project award-winning Adventure Cyclist magazine, working on the U.S. on his popular Fast Lane blog. The USBRS also received coverage from • For our 2011 Awards Program we received a total of 45 nominations. We Bicycle Route System, reaching out to young people, testing and Mother Earth News, Good Magazine, One Earth Magazine, The Car presented our four national bike-travel awards to the Jim’s Bicycle Shop in selling bike-travel gear, and providing bicycle-travel information. Cincinnati, OH; Kevin Cashman & Apogee Adventures in, Brunswick, ME; Connection, Public Works Magazine, Cycling Mobility, Crain’s Detroit Business, The proceeds from our tours, sales, memberships, and fundraising Donn Olson & the Bicycle Bunkhouse in Dalbo, MN; and Leslie Wills of AASHTO Journal, Streets Blog Capitol Hill, DiscoveryChannel.com, The efforts are used for our nonprofit initiatives to promote and improve Grand Haven, MI. City Fix, Bike Radar, Baraboo News Republic, Bicycle Paper, and Bicycle cycling and bicycle travel in the U.S. and beyond. Retailer & Industry News (BRAIN). We appreciated Bicycle Retailer & Industry Publications News’ extensive coverage of our work in 2011, including two guest editorials Emily Porter, Nicky Theaume, Steph Daly, Leigh Eubank, and Annalee Harris rode • We published 9 issues of Adventure Cyclist magazine, the highlight being two from Executive Director Jim Sayer. This coverage kept bicycle travel and from Boston, MA to Portland, OR. Leigh said that she was amazed by the beauty of 64-page issues in March and April. The April issue was our second Cyclists’ Adventure Cycling’s programs center stage in the cycling industry. this country. “I find myself zooming downhill, whooping and hollering and laughing out Travel Guide, a themed issue with a focus on how-to bike-travel information loud at just how beautiful everything is and how good life is!” and more. We continue to be proud of the May history issue, which features • We amped up our local Montana news coverage in 2011, enjoying multiple stories and photographs about the hardy pioneers of cycling who traveled by bike when it wasn’t as easy as it is today. And for those readers who would feature articles and other coverage in our community’s daily paper, the rather ride recumbents, tandems, fold-ups, or any other non standard Missoulian, snagging a spot as The Trail 103.3’s featured nonprofit during Creating Bike Routes for the Nation two-wheeler, we were glad to publish our June issue, focusing on alternative National Bike Month, appearing in the Missoula Independent, Helena cycles. Independent Record, as well as Montana Quarterly and Montana Headwall New Routes and Maps Existing Routes magazines, among other Montana-based media outlets. In 2011, Adventure Cycling’s Routes and Mapping Department published the While creating new routes, we didn’t forget to keep our other routes up-to- • Our excellent publications design crew teamed up with the Adventure new 518-mile Underground Railroad Detroit Alternate Bicycle Route, which date. Our routes and mapping team revised and reprinted 37 map sections Cycling tours and sales teams to create top-notch publications to help them • We published 24 editions of our popular e-newsletter, Bike Bits, which now includes the 175-mile Windsor Option. This 2-section map set was created (out of 94 total sections). Six of those reprinted map sections were converted promote organized tours, bike-travel gear, and our one-of-a-kind bike-travel reaches more than 43,955 subscribers — up nearly 4,000 subscribers over using GIS (Geographic Information Systems) software. With the publication to GIS. We received reports from cyclists about poor shoulders and heavy maps. last year. of the new route, our total number of mapped miles now totals 41,399 — the truck traffic from expanding oil and gas activity between Williston and Minot, largest mapped network of bike-friendly routes in the world. We also began North Dakota on the Northern Tier Route and Lewis & Clark Trail. In Media Social Media on-the-ground research for our next long-distance cycling route, Bicycle Route response to these safety issues, we began researching new routing through the • In 2011, we worked with many national, regional, and local news outlets to • Adventure Cycling’s blog (blog.adventurecycling.org) attracted over 156,000 66, which is scheduled for release in 2014. state. We also began re-branding our map covers with unique route decals this tell the story of bicycle travel and publicize our resources for touring cyclists. visitors and, along with our other social media channels, referred over 1,200 year. Adventure Cycling’s routes and related activities were featured in the New new visitors to our website (adventurecycling.org) each month. York Times, Men’s Journal, Sacramento Bee, San Francisco Weekly, Chicago GetTING more people traveling by bicycle Tribune, Houston Chronicle, Des Moines Register, Albuquerque Journal, and • During National Bike Month, we raised over $32,000 via our social media San Jose Mercury News, also netting headlines across the country in channels for the U.S. Bicycle Route System. publications and websites such as the Brattleboro Reformer, Portland Press Membership in the past this fund has helped us purchase our building, creating a permanent Herald, East Hampton Star, Memphis Flyer, Missouri Life, Athens Banner- • Adventure Cycling is the largest nonprofit bicycling organization in the U.S home for the organization and a great place for visiting cyclists. • Our Third Annual Bicycle Travel Photo Contest attracted more than 500 Herald, Boise Weekly, The Spokesman-Review, Bicycling, Mother Nature with 43,552 members. 5,868 new members joined the organization in 2011. submissions from over 100 photographers. • We provided over 13,000 cyclists with trip-planning information through our Network, Adventure Journal, and Bike Portland among many others. • Members reside in 52 different countries around the world, the majority live in printed materials and reached many thousands more through the vast resources • Adventure Cycling’s social media communities continued to expand. Our the U.S. but adventure cyclists also reside in Kenya, Liechtenstein, Qatar and on our website. Also in 2011, we had over 248 member shops, and our 137 • We made a nice splash in radio with Executive Director Jim Sayer appearing on Facebook community grew to over 33,000 fans. Our YouTube videos were Swaziland. In the United States, North Dakota has the fewest members (69) member clubs served more than 66,000 individual cyclists. National Public Radio’s daily news magazine, Here & Now. Jim and other staff viewed more than 68,000 times, Twitter followers topped 4,000, and our and California has the most (5,122). also made appearances on public radio’s “The Environment Report,” Montana Outreach and Education Flickr photos were viewed more than 414,000 times! Public Radio, Ohio’s WJCU, Seattle’s KUOW, Bicycle Radio, and more. • Volunteer ambassadors presented Adventure Cycling information at • We welcomed 48 new life members into the fold this year for a total of 1,627. Life-membership dollars support long-term projects at Adventure Cycling and numerous public gatherings and staff made presentations and connections at conferences including the National Bike Summit, bike summits in Cyclists featured in black & white portraits visited our office in Missoula, MT during 2011. Photography by Greg Siple.

Xiao Toa and Zhou Tong visited America for the first time to ride from Seattle, WA to Bar Bethany Hoffman was inspired to ride by Bikecentennial but, unfortunately, couldn’t Each year, we anxiously await the flow of visitng cyclists to start rolling in to our Missoula was the starting point for David, Monique, Benjamin, and Will Scharlotte for Harbor, ME. The pair said they had done many long trips in their home country, China, make it happen in 1976. Now, she feels very lucky to be able to go on long trips (this headquarters. On May 6, 2011, our first rider of the year, Eric W. Schmidgall, stopped their ride on the TransAm Trail to Jackson, WY. This was their second visit with us. In but cycling in the States was a dream checked off their list. one was from Seattle, WA to Grand Junction, CO) with her husband, Dave. by on his way to graduate school in Fairbanks, AK. 2008, they tandemed to Missoula from Oregon. Our GENEROUS Supporters Web/IT Tours In 2011, we raised $464,760 from donors. $85,000 in grant support came from the Tawani Foundation, SRAM Cycling Fund, the Surdna Foundation, • In 2011, Adventure Cycling Association launched two new websites to help • 933 riders participated in 43 Adventure Cycling tours and classes. In and The Lazar Foundation. We conducted our second social media fundraising campaign to support the U.S. Bicycle Route System raised more than spread the word about bicycle travel. BikeOvernights.org is dedicated to addition to our classic tours, we offered five brand new tours and five $32,000 as well as engaging thousands of new cyclists in this project through Facebook, Twitter, and Razoo. Public support of this project is key to the inspiring cyclists to take short overnight bicycle trips. The site is packed with variations of existing tours. New tour locations included the Florida Keys, state-by-state implementation of an official national bicycle route system. We also held our first holiday campaign and raised funds to match a total of trip narratives from cyclists across the globe and we’re adding more how-to Philadelphia to Washington (our Freedom Flyer tour), the Cascade $68,000 in challenge gifts from major donors. information and other fun content monthly. The second site, Mountains, Atlantic Coast, and Katy Trail. BicycleTravelBloggers.org, is a clearing house of bicycle-travel related blogs Donations from individuals, foundations, and businesses support advocacy and education projects including development of the U.S. Bicycle Route submitted by bloggers from around the world. Cyclists can check the site or Sales System, creation of new bike routes such as Bicycle Route 66, maintenance of map information for our established routes, distribution of youth subscribe to the RSS feed to get a daily dose of inspiration from others who • Adventure Cycling’s popular bicycle-touring maps are available online and bike-travel resources, and efforts at the federal level to secure better bicycling policies and resources. are out there traveling by bike. We also upgraded our online forums and through Cyclosource. In 2011, the sales department saw a modest 2.2% made PDF files of Adventure Cyclist magazine available to members through increase in overall map sales, selling more than 32,400 maps for the year. the website. However non-member sales revenue jumped 14% over 2010, with 70% of Adventure Cycling donors Leaders $500-$999 that growth stemming from map sales. Total sales revenue increased 7% in Hewes Agnew · Melanie Alexander · Robert Allen · Jim Alsup · American (January 1 - December 31, 2011) • Internally, we have moved our organizational email, contacts, and calendars 2011, with the average order size up 4% over 2010. Center for Philanthropy · Chris Anderson · Peter Backman · BikeQuest Bicycle Touring Co · Leslie Bohm, Catalyst Communication · Douglas to Google Apps Non Profit Edition to help lower infrastructure costs. We also Corporate Members Booth · James Cavanaugh · CFC of North Central Texas · Suanne have updated our network with new workstations, a new firewall, and a new • In the last decade, Adventure Cycling’s map sales have grown 48%, and total Titanium: Quality Bicycle Products · Salsa · Surly Davendonis · Hilary Davis · Marc de Venoge Family · John Dohner · file server in the past fiscal year. sales revenue has grown 66%. Gold: Adventure Center · AdventureCORPS Inc. · BikeFlights.com · BikeToursDirect Phyllis Duncan · Kristin Dyer and Eric Lechner · Karl Eggers · Morris · BOB Trailer · Celestron · Co-Motion Cycles · Klean Kanteen · Osprey Packs Inc. · Erickson · Paul Erikson · Fannie E Rippel Foundation · Pamela Fischer Marketing Rawland Cycles · REI · Renaissance Bicycles LLC · Sun Bicycles - J&B Importers, and Scott Spaulding · Tom Fortmann · David Frankel · Michael Freed · • We completed the fourth annual membership survey and the Publications Inc. · TeamEstrogen.com · Woman Tours Clay Frick · Johnny Gooch · Google Matching Gifts Program · Sean and Department sent out an Adventure Cyclist readership survey. Silver: Cascade Huts · ClubExpress · CycloCamping · Cygolite - Lighting Systems · Suzanne Gordon · John and Christine Graff · B Charles Graham · Bucky ExperiencePlus! Bicycle Tours · Hiawatha Cyclery · Jacob North Companies · Keen Green · Ray Hanson · Michael Held · Karen Herold · Jim and Wendy Inc · National Bicycle Dealers Association · Planet Bike · Razoo Foundation · Red • For our 2011 Share the Joy promotion, which prompted members to get Arrow Group · Rentabikenow.com · Stan’s No Tubes Homerosky · Max Horn · Carol Horner · Robert Huizenga · Andy Huppert Family · Christopher and Anne James · Peter Janick · Don Jenkins · their friends to join, we partnered with Novara/REI and product · · Bronze: 3G Mobility Alphagraphics Missoula Anderson ZurMuehlen & Co. PC · · · manufacturers such as Canari, Cannondale, Old Man Mountain, Ortlieb, · BikeQuest Bicycle Touring Co. · Hike and Bike Italy · Colorado Backcountry Matthew and Donna Johnson Walter Jung T.S. Kelso Clark Kemble · Brendan Kirby Family · Jacob Kirkman · Edward Kleinbard Family · Arkel, Detours, and BOB Trailers. Biker · ESRI · First Interstate Bank · Lorain County Visitors Bureau · Ortlieb and Tubus · Penn Trails LLC · Rocky Mtn Business Products · Silver Bike Tours/ROW Bill Lurton · MacArthur Foundation · William McCusker Family · Jeffrey Adventures · Urban Bicycle Outfitters Miller · Missoulians on Bicycles · Billie Moore Family · Mary and Bruce • We sent out more than 200,000 shop display cards to 2,200 bike shops, Moreira · Mountain Man Events · Narragansett Bay Wheelmen · National university recreation centers, and REI stores across the country to promote Philanthropic Trust · Tim Oberle · Peter O’Keeffe · Ortlieb and Tubus Grants bicycle travel. · Dania Otero-Perez · Daniel Peterson · PG & E Corporation · Charles Channel Islands Bicycle Club · SRAM · Surdna Foundation and Patricia Pint · Richard Piper · Myrna Rafalovich · Red Arrow Group • Over 2,500 branded decals were distributed on three routes: TransAmerica Inc. · Tawani Foundation · The Lazar Foundation · Terry and Nancy Reed · Christopher and Kathy Robertson · Janet Trail, Northern Tier, and Pacific Coast. Decal designs for the Great Parks SeGall · Brian Shunamon · Brian Sindt and Barbara Hays · Laurie and + Ed Stalling · Brent Studler · Sean and Sandra Sweeney · Team Skunk · and Western Express was completed. Special Recognition $10,000 Crunchy Frog Fund · Fidelity Charitable Gift Fund · William and Wayne Teumer · Guy Tiphane · VT Community Foundation/Backman & Christopher Fund · Walk and Roll Cleveland · Roy Weil and Mary Shaw · • Our success in 2011 depended in part on strong relationships. Locally, we Leola Hanna · Susan and Stephen Immelt · James Pritzker · Razoo Foundation · Steve Seay / Stephen M. Seay Foundation, Inc. Tanya Weiss · Bruce Wickert · Bob and Susan Wislow · Nancy Wright · partnered with Missoula in Motion, the University of Montana, Missoula Carol York and Pete Fotheringham Free Cycles, and Sunday Streets Missoula. On the national level, we Thomas Stevens Society $2,500 to $9,999 worked with many groups such as BicycleTouringPro.com, Adventurers and Freewheelers $250-$499 · · · Scientists for Conservation, Intaba Inc, 4K for Cancer, and Arkel. These AASHTO’s Center for Environmental Excellence · Donna Sakson and Anonymous (3) Ken and Vickie Adams Apogee Adventures Arkansas Jonathan Mark · Schwab Charitable Fund · Sid Voss · Tom Blanck · Bicycle Club · Arlington Heights Bicycle Club · Russ and Carol Atha · Karen partnerships allowed us to reach new cyclists and introduce them to the CFC of the National Capital Area · Ron Gutfleish · Robert Hughes · and Jim Badgley · Randall Barker · Arthur Bartlett · Mark Battey · Harry Belin world of bike travel. · · · · Just when we think we’ve seen it all, we have Robert Wood Johnson Foundation-Matching Gifts · Ron and Stacey Bicycle Sport Shop Michael Borck Leslie Boswell and PJ McGuire · · · riders like Jonas Winn of Moline, IL show up. He Gutfleish Foundation · Jon Spallino · Vanguard Charitable Endowment Brandywine Bicycle Club William Branstrup Jr Michael Brown Harry Brull · · · built his “tall bike” for his ride from Seattle, WA to Program · Steven and Carolyn Vonderfecht · Wally Werner · Steven and Myra Barrett Jan and Ron Brunk James Caldwell Thomas Callahan SupportING Bicycling Communities · Timothy Carey · Walter Carr Family · John Carter · CFC NorCal · CFC Washington, DC. Whalen of Greater Arkansas · John & Roxanne Chapman · Chesapeake Bay Area Thomas Stevens Society $1,000 to $2,499 2011 was an historic year in Adventure Cycling’s campaign to create better CFC · Kenneth Chisholm Jr. · John Ciecko · Alan Cole · Mark Cotovsky conditions for cycling and bicycle travel across America Staff spoke at numerous conferences about the USBRS and held regional and Almaden Cycle Touring Club · Amgen Foundation · Sarah & David and Jefferson Rogers · Robin Cotton Family · Stephen Cross · Joseph state meetings with advocacy groups, volunteers, and agency officials that Apple / Apple Foundation Inc. · Jody Auldridge · BikeFlights.com DeBrohun · Delaware Valley Bicycle Club · Sid Dillon · John Dingman U.S. Bicycle Route System yielded partnerships to support route development. Through these · Peter Bower · David Bowman · Randy Brodersen · Alan Cannon Family · Robert Dreeke Family · Michael Dreiling · Michael Dubrow · Michael Eells Family · ExperiencePlus! Bicycle Tours · David and Anne Fege · Progress on the U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) focused on three major experiences, Adventure Cycling developed implementation models, tools, and Family · Joyce Casey · David Childers · Nard Claar · Marc Clark · Warren Fellingham · Gregory Forrester · Lee Francis and Michelle Gittler · areas: building greater public awareness and communicating the benefits of the resources that will aid future efforts. A state-by-state status report is available at Matthew Cohn · Co-Motion Cycles · Marc Currie · Lloyd Davis · Davis Gwendolyn Fuehring · Philip Gash · Gateway CFC · GE Foundation · Anna system, training and working with our partners to support route development, adventurecycling.org/usbrs. The bottom line: 40 states are now planning or Family Memorial Trust · Jacques Devaud · John Emory Jr. · Evanston Ginn · Gordon Construction · Diane Haltigan Family · Steve Hammett · John and developing tools and resources to support route implementation. implementing U.S. Bicycle Routes! Bicycle Club · John Gardner, Amishland & Lakes · Todd Gardner · Andrew Gilligan · Joe Golden · Richard & Renee Goldman · Wayne & Kathy Hannon · Sheila & Reid Hansen · Paul Hanson · Peter Harkness We built awareness about the USBRS through a combination of social media National Advocacy Goodman · Robert Gubler · Paul Jakus · Michael Johnson & Carol · Heartland Velo Show · Lee Herman · Kathy Herson · Houston Bicycle and traditional channels — blog posts, articles, an online fundraising event, Adventure Cycling enjoyed some important successes for better bicycling. Bessey · Clyde Kessel · Steven Koch · AdventureCORPS Inc. · Sam Club Inc · Cammie Howard Family · Julie Huck and Ron Uchytil · Greg and both online and in-person meetings and conferences. Outcomes worth With our national partners, we helped stave off unprecedented attacks on bike Leffler & Cynthia Livingston · Nels & Liz Leutwiler · Joshua Levy & Pam Kaiser · Cap Kane · Elizabeth Kasper Garrett and James Garrett · Carole noting: the USBRS Facebook page grew to more than 19,000 fans. Exciting funding and policies at the federal level. Just as important, we helped win a Magnuson · Bryan Lorber · Patrick Mantyh · Veronica Massey Family Kirk · Lynn Klanchar & Chip Coutts · Tosha Knight · Scott Korn Family · national partnerships began developing, beginning with an offer to serve on major re-write of the key national technical guidance for rumble-strip · Arthur McMurdie · Howard Metzenberg · Melissa & David Norton Jonathan Krall · Amy Kristoff · Laird Norton Company LLC · Randy Landau · the Paul S. Sarbanes Transit in Parks peer group. The Transit in Parks program application, to ensure that bicyclists’ needs are a major consideration. We also · Overseas CFC (Global Impact) · Pacific Northwest CFC · Timothy Owen and Cynthia Lavin · Nick Lenzmeier · Carol Linden · Adam Lobert III · supports active and transit transportation projects on federal lands and the worked with numerous local and state groups to protect cyclists’ access to key Petersen · Pikes Peak Community Foundation · Christopher Puin · Thomas Lopez · Tim Love · Anne Maker · Shelia Martin Family · McConnell peer group is made up of federal land managers that are actively seeking roadways like the Blue Ridge Parkway. Finally, we continued our recent QBP - Salsa · Charles Siple · Stan’s No Tubes · John Swanson · Pierre Foundation · Bob McCoy · Sandy McCuaig · Tim McGowen · Miami innovative solutions to make public lands more accessible to cyclists, initiative to engage the global and national travel industry in promoting and Swick · TeamEstrogen.com · Paul Watkins & Ruth Runeborg · Todd Valley (Greater Dayton UW) CFC · Paul Millar · Matthew Miller and Janet pedestrians, and transit users. supporting bicycle travel. Whitehouse · Joseph Willman Family · Keith Winkle Family · Fillmore & Kaseda · Minneapolis Foundation · Frank & Deena Mitchell · Bill and Suki Sharon Wood · Malcolm Wright · Jerry Zebrack Molina · Albert Moore · Owen Moore Jr. · Larry Moormeier · Norm Moyer Marianne Mulrey and John Lacy · Barbara Murock and Carl Fertman · · Gregory & Leslie Stone · Porter & Gail Storey · Brent Studler · Ray Swartz Lyman Orton · John Osborne · Bill Pakenas · Gerard Pallotta · David · Steve Tolle · Richard Voss · Tom Wolfe Family · Chris Wood Pancost · James Parris · Claudia Perry · Jim Pietrick · Ann Pokora · Carol 2011 Fiscal Summary Prahinski · Bob and Linda Railey · REI Charitable Action Campaign · Charles Benefactor Members Reller · Scott Reynolds · Dan Rogalla · Richard Rogers & Julie Caswell · Betsy Adams · Larsen Anderson Family · Cara Barnes Family · Bob Bauer · Maurice Belanger · Harald Borrmann · Gary Botto · Caroline & Tom Merchandise Sales 20% Bobbie Rothen Family · William & Catherine Ruhling · Mike Samuelson · San Revenues and Antonio Area CFC · Debi Sanchez and Kurt Jorgensen · Santa Fe Century Britven · Robert Burpee · Allison Burson · James Carota · John Cibinic Advertising 5% · Jeff Collins · William Cook · David Cummings · Stephen Davis · James Expenses: This diagram Administration 4% & Trail Comm · John Schaffers · Matt Schuerger · John Scibek · John illustrates where Adventure Settlage · Joshua Short · Richard Slaymaker · Kent Smith · Sheila Snyder · DeVoe · Kathy Douglas · Ken Duex · Travis Dye and Megan Ashton · Cycling’s revenues come Fundraising 6% South Jersey CFC · St Mary’s Clinic · Leonard Stegman · Pamela Stewart Scott Eddy Family · Sarah Epstein · Mary Jane Evans · Mary Ferrari · John Donations/Grants 14% from and how the money is · Tracy & Mary Stollberg · Robert Sutherland · Pete Trenham Family · Paul Fey · James Fischer · Hank and Sandra Gentry · Bettina George Family · Richard & Renee Goldman · John & Christine Graff · Greg Hansen · Peter spent. In FY2011, we were Turek · A Tor Ueland Family · United Way of Ventura County · Jonathan Program Services 90% Van Haste · Hans Van Naerssen · Steven Wallaert · Polly and Phil Walsh · Harkness · Michelle and Dale Harris · Nancy Helm Family · Laura Herman · able to allocate 90% of our Big Sky CFC · Mark Wilcox · Michael Williams · Richard and Janice Witt · Jim Holland · Peter Horan · Robert Huizenga · Meg Hummon · Terry Hunley expenses directly toward Tours 33% Hilary Woodward · Kim Hynek · Michael Kaiser · Clark Kemble · Jane Kitchel · Joshua Levy our mission of inspiring and Pam Magnuson · Richard Licht · Roy Lopez · Bill Lurton · Ian Marquand people of all ages to travel New Life Members · Kenneth Martin · Nancy Mazzoli · Dean Mcclayland · Brian McCrodden by bicycle. Revenues Expenses Kevin Anglin · Vernon Begalke · James & Holly Bogin · Jim Brown · Dawn Family · Dan McDonald · Charles McGinley · Robert Mendelson · Michael Callahan · Jim Calvert · Sheary Clough Suiter · Dave Coleman · Dick Miller · Norm Moyer · Christine Newman · North Country Anesthesia · Membership 28% Combs · Andrea Commaker · Lee Cooper · Mike Cruz · Chris Davenport Donna O’Neal & Linda Alexionok · Charlie O’Reilly · John Overton Jr. · · Brian DeSousa · John Enzweiler · Pamela Fischer & Scott Spaulding · David Pariseau Family · Richard Pasiwit · Rohe Pennington · Stu Rachlin Michael & Nancy Fortney · Jerry French · Cono Fusco · Orival Greenfield · Rebecca Reno · Bruce Richbourg · Leon Robert · Richard Rogers and · Harvey & Sue Griggs · Arlen Hall & Shawn Decareaux · Fred Harris · Julie Caswell · Kenneth Rose · John Schneider · Diane Sharrock · Jerry Liam Healy · Bradley Herman · Henry Heyburn Jr. · Betsy Hunter Family and Lily Siegel · Jane Sierk · Marsha Stanton · Harold Tarry Family · Mike Adventure Cycling Association Adventure Cycling Association · Susan & Stephen Immelt · Elizabeth Labadie · Daniel Lehmann · Steve Thompson and Karen Whitten · A Tor Ueland Family · Catherine Walker and Statement of Revenues and Expenses Balance Sheet Leibman · John Maier · Phillip Martin · Veronica Massey Family · John Scott David Fuqua · George Wendel · Anne Winkes · Loretta and Tom Witt · Dick McCrary · Kathleen McHugh & Ernest Cole · David Miller · Kevin Morgan · Wright Family · Troy and Kimberly Zeleznik Revenues FY2011 FY2010 Assets FY2011 FY2010 Katherine Nelson · Rod Nisi & Debra Litzelman · Steven Powell · Jill & Del Merchandise Net Sales $257,417 $245,013 Current Assets $1,170,670 $650,243 Rasmussen · Terry & Nancy Reed · Rich & Michelle Scott · Gregg Singer · We also want to thank the numerous members who gave spe- Membership $1,180,293 $1,133,882 Long-term Assets $ 473,759 $485,295 Timothy Smith · MPJ Squier · Susan Sterner-Howe · Tracy & Mary Stollberg cial donations up to $250. Thank you very much! Tours $1,373,930 $1,441,064 Total Assets $1,644,429 $1,135,538 Donations/Grants $583,988 $469,219 Advertising $225,953 $210,029 Liabilities Cross country cyclists John Shade and Rachel Siciliano react when Other $7,775 $5,960 Current Liabilities $656,144 $534,593 their tandem weighs in at 150 lbs. Greg Siple, who initiated the Net Operating Revenue $3,629,356 $3,505,167 Long-term Liabilities $95,136 $28,548 weigh-ins last summer as a part of his visitor portrait photography Total Liabilities $751,280 $563,141 project, looks on. The new service turned out to be as popular as the Expenses free ice cream we stock for our cycling visitors. Support Services $395,107 $362,188 Net Assets Program Services Total Fund Balance $893,149 $572,397 Routes & Mapping $377,111 $344,974 Total Liabilities and Net Assets $1,644,429 $1,135,538 Outreach $52,867 $51,240 Publications $757,990 $711,266 Adventure Cycling Association is a nonprofit charitable organization as qualified Tours $1,234,764 $1,253,358 under Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. A copy of the annual audit is Membership Services $490,766 $485,570 available at www.adventurecycling.org/audit or by calling (800) 755-2453. Total Program Services $2,913,498 $2,846,408

Increase (Decrease) in Net Assets $320,752 $296,571 E E L L EG SIP EG SIP R R G G

r “4000 Miles, 2 Wheels, 1 Cause.” Young cyclists with the organization, Illini 4000 for Riders from the Fuller Center for Housing ham it up after finishing their ice cream Cancer, are all smiles when they stop by our headquarters during their ride from New in Adventure Cycling’s foyer while Teri Maloughney, Sales and Marketing Director, aghe

ll York City, NY to San Francisco, CA. snaps their photograph for our “Wall of Fame.” ga

ek r de Final Mile N ational Park. I am sorry to say you Mike and I began a 1,000-mile jour- vive such an ordeal. In my career, I was won’t get a chance to enjoy the views.” ney south to my old hometown of Fort on call for three similar bicycle accidents. With little fanfare, I was loaded and Collins, Colorado. He drove, I sat and For those unfortunate victims, there airborne. They had placed painkillers in navigated. The plan was for me to get a was no tomorrow. The one and only second chance my IV by now. I became groggy, blurry, second opinion from another neurosur- thing that differentiated me from them, Sometimes it takes a serious scare to help us realize it’s great to be alive and disconnected. I remember peeking at geon and to convalesce in familiar sur- I believe, is that I was wearing a bicycle the snow-capped mountains briefly. Alas, roundings. I told Mike a few times, “I helmet. by Jeff Sambur I would not get to enjoy my $11,000 taxi always wanted to take a road trip with During my time in Fort Collins, impor- ride to Kalispell. A plastic surgeon went you, but this isn’t what I had in mind.” tant people from my past come to visit. I to work on my meat tenderized face. Eight days after the accident, Mike smile grandly as I hug them. If the hug “I will try to stitch you to minimize and I were listening to neurosurgeon lingers long enough, I usually score a life Late lunch? Bonus miles in Glacier National Park? Early Happy the scarring, however, there will be some number two, a no-nonsense, no sugar- affirming squeeze at the end. I make sure scarring no matter what.” All in all, 20 coating doctor who calls it like he sees it. to pay that squeeze back in kind. Hour? These were some of my random thoughts as I huffed up stitches were applied to my eyebrows “Your vertebrae fractures are mild. You After all that’s happened, I real- the final pull toward the summit of Marias Pass. I was en route and right cheek. When she was done she definitely have a broken sternum. I believe ize how lucky I am to be alive. Second asked. “Would you like to see my work you will heal okay. We’ll take another set chances in life are precious and I do not from West Glacier to East Glacier, Montana, on a mellow seven- to 10-day cir- in a mirror?” of X-rays in a few weeks to see if there are wish to squander mine. More bicycling cumnavigation of Glacier/Waterton National Park. I was a mere half hour from “Sure!” I steadied myself for the view. any changes. I doubt if there will be, but awaits, just around the next corner. Holy crap! I was staring at a mini-version I’ll see you again in three weeks.” completing these decisions when I was thrust into a cave. Total darkness. of Frankenstein. In my former life, I worked for 28 Jeff Sambur’s few worldly possessions live in Tucson, No sound. No brakes screeching. The compassionate doctor Then it was time to get past the cos- years as a fire fighter/EMT for the city Arizona. He pays them a visit for a few months each winter. The rest of the time he is on the road in Barley, No thud of my inert body smashing came to my side to survey the metics. A large neurosurgeon with a stoic of Fort Collins. In emergency services, a customized Ford van. Barley is fitted out with three the sedan’s windshield. No noise as carnage to my face. She held my bedside manner approached me. “We the term “mechanism of injury” is ban- backpacks, two bicycles, one laptop, maps, a comfort- I went somersaulting, rolling, and hand as she said, “Those lac- won’t be operating on you. With all of died about to predict the outcome of an able bed, books, and plenty of cold beer. He’s the author tumbling across 25 feet of asphalt erations will need the care of a your breaks, we wouldn’t even know accident. A small 138-pound man being of Destroying Demons on the Diagonal (A Firefighter’s and gravel. When I awoke in a plastic surgeon. I can stitch them where to start. Your spinal column is struck from behind by a sedan traveling San Diego to Maine Bicycle Ride into Retirement) which can be found at Amazon.com. ditch, there was a good Samaritan for you, but they can do a better intact and not being impinged upon. We at over 50 MPH is an obvious assault upon applying spinal traction to my job.” With that sad news, I knew will place you in ICU and monitor your the body. Humans are not wired to sur- e neck. The peripheral vision from my Hollywood contract as George l X-rays. We’ll hope there are no radical sip my left eye saw the drop, drop, Clooney’s double would surely be changes or shifts in your column.” eg r drop of blood oozing from my nose. terminated. g “One question, please. What is my My right eye was swollen shut. “We’ll arrange it. The CAT- long-term prognosis?” I asked. “What happened?” I asked Montana, arrived and placed me onto an Scan of your head and brain “We don’t know. We don’t see many weakly. unforgiving backboard and cervical col- came out negative. That’s a good thing. patients like you.” “You got rear-ended by a car. Don’t lar. We raced the the emergency room, We are waiting now for the radiologist to “Why is that?” move!” She answered. “He’s coming careening down the pass and through a evaluate your neck and spine X-rays.” “Because they’re usually dead.” around. I’ll need some help here.” I esti- construction zone. A paramedic attempt- “Thanks for all the help,” I said. I whispered a lame, “Oh!” mated that I had checked out of Planet ed to get an IV into me. Twice he failed. A few minutes later, the doctor came The next few days on the morphine Earth for about two to four minutes. “Please don’t stick me again,” I said. back. Once again she held my hand. “I drip were a haze of dreaming and snip- Civilian-clad first responders assisted me “I hurt enough already. They can do have bad news. The radiologist found 11 pets of reality thrown in. Concerned as they poked and prodded my body tak- that in the ER under better conditions. I fractures in your first 11 vertebrae. You friends and family members phoned me. ing a primary and secondary survey of promise I won’t die before then.” have a broken sternum too. There will I had no recollections of the conversa- my injuries. Upon our arrival, a doctor made her also be a neurosurgeon waiting for you in tions. What I did recall was the nursing “Can you move your feet? Can you orders known. “He’ll need a CAT-Scan. Kalispell.” staff getting me up and out of bed. I wiggle them? Squeeze my hands. Are you Get a set of X-rays for his neck and “What? How can that be? I can move even walked up a flight of steps under having trouble breathing?” The questions spine. Set him up with an IV ASAP. We’ll all of my parts. Are you sure those were their watchful eye. Best of all, my older came fast and furious. I had passed the need to monitor his vital signs.” my X-rays?” I said in disbelief. brother Mike arrived from New York tests with flying colors. My spinal col- The nurses and technicians efficiently “Yes. Those were your X-rays. You will City to take care of his “baby” brother. I umn was intact and not severed. carried out her orders. I was then in the get the best of care in Kalispell. I have wept shamelessly as he entered the room. “Was it you who hit me?” hurry up and wait mode of emergency a special place in my heart for bicycle He went on to prove once again, why he “Yes. I was sightseeing and looking at medicine. A nursing student gently riders. My son was killed by a driver 20 is the best brother in the world. the mountains and drifted into you.” dabbed the grit, grime, and dried blood years ago when he was riding a bike. We Four days after the impact, I was At this time, I might have said a few from my many facial wounds and mul- will take care of you.” discharged from the hospital. My post- The evolution of bicycle safety. choice words to him. I don’t recall. I tiple areas of road rash. I even had road No wonder she was holding my hand. discharge orders were terse. “Do not Superflash Turbo don’t remember much, though I remem- rash on the tops of my feet. Apparently, The helicopter flight crew came and remove the brace!” It looked like sponge

ber he never said he was sorry. the force of the impact literally knocked checked me out. “Jeff, we are going baths and partial shampoos would be my BETTER BICYCLE PRODUCTS FOR A BETTER WORLD planetbike.com An ambulance from Browning, me out of my shoes. to give you a scenic ride over Glacier method of hygiene for awhile.

52 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 53 Share the Joy GET A CHANCE TO WIN Scenes from the Saddle Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes A FLUID SITUATION n For each cyclist you refer to Adventure Cycling, you will Photograph by Greg Siple get one chance to win a Giant Rapid 1* valued at over $1,250. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2013.

n Each month, we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Arkel, Ortlieb, and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win!

* Bicycle model may change with release of new or updated models.

Adventure Cycling Association adventurecycling.org/joy

A dventure Cycling Corporate Members Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward role in the success of our nonprofit organization. Our Corporate special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key support- about how your business can become a corporate supporter of ers. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or do and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher call (800) 755-2453.

TITANIUM GOLD

SILVER BRONZE

Colorado Backcountry Biker First Interstate Bank Penn Trails On Day 5, the weather had been perfect. At Mile 25, the Adventure Cycling group had climbed Silver Bike Tours/ up and over the Continental Divide (6,700 feet). This was followed by a long descent to the Fairmont ROW Adventures Hot Springs Resort lunch stop at Mile 40. It was here that Adventure Cycling board member George Mendes slipped into the camp store to purchase extra refreshment for the remaining 25 miles.

54 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 55 IN HOUSE IN HOUSE - LOGOS - SHARE THE JOY?

all the organizational news that will fit. online: adventurecycling.org edited by Michael McCoy NEW LOOP OPTION ON UGRR S HAre THE Underground Railroad adds options JOY WINNERS This program encourages In mid-February, Lake Erie Connector members to share Adventure Adventure Cycling and the Northern Tier, Cycling with their friends and released the final map “These new connections cycling buddies, awarding priz- section for its new create numerous new es throughout the year. While 518-mile Underground possibilities for wonder- there are monthly drawings Railroad Detroit Alternate ful one- and two-week and winners, the big ticket Bicycle Route. The new loop rides.” Maps are items were a Novara Verita, RidingSweep route provides alternate now available through a Reynolds 520 steel classic routing from the main Adventure Cycling’s roadster, and a $500 gift cer- Underground Railroad Cyclosource catalog and tificate to Cyclosource. route, and a host of new online store (adventure The winners or the Verita historic sites, for cyclists cycling.org/store). were Richard Levy and Sarah OL I BOOM AWARDS ARE THE REWARD traveling between Oberlin, Adventure Cycling’s Westendorf, five-year mem- forces Ohio, and Owen Sound, members and donors bers from Steamboat Springs, 2011 winners are revealed Ontario. supported the creation Colorado. They have a family ROUTE Departing from the of the Detroit Alternate, membership and so got to CHANGES main route in Oberlin, as did a generous duke it out over who would Adventure Cycling’s Annual and thrilled to get the award.” is to inspire a love of bicycling, We’ve been receiving alarm- the Detroit Alternate $20,000 grant from REI get the new Novara Verita, Bicycle Travel Awards recog- Donn created the “Bicycle adventure, and travel that stays

ing reports from cyclists rid- eene guides cyclists through (Recreational Equipment, donated by REI. r

nize individuals, organizations, Bunkhouse” in Palbo, with them for the rest of their g

ing between Williston and y Toledo, Ohio, and Detroit, Inc.), a retail co-op pro- Family members Ivan Napel and businesses that have Minnesota, just off of the lives.” Minot, North Dakota — on both Michigan, around Lake viding quality outdoor and Aiko Hanyu won the shop- helped to improve conditions Northern Tier after a chance • Jim Peters and Jim’s case the Northern Tier Route and St. Clair, tracing the gear and clothing. ping spree. The 11-year mem- for bicycle travelers or have encounter with some cyclists Bicycle Shop in Cincinnati, Lewis & Clark Trail — about shoreline of Lake Huron More informa- bers from Houston, Texas, inspired and accommodated in 2005. “It makes me feel Ohio, clinched the 2011 Sam extremely heavy truck traffic before heading to Owen According to Jennifer tion about the Detroit won a $500 gift certificate to traveling cyclists in some way. good to do something for Braxton Bike Shop Award. Jim and poor shoulder conditions. Sound. The maps also provide Milyko, Adventure Cycling car- Alternate and the Underground the Cyclosource catalog and “These winners make America the folks out on the road,” and his staff make it a priority The business of oil extrac- a ferry option across Lake Erie tographer, the Detroit Alternate Railroad Bicycle Route can be online store (adventurecycling. a better, friendlier, and more said Olson. Indeed. This past to encourage their customers tion in the Bakken Formation from Sandusky, Ohio, through links to other Adventure found at adventurecycling.org/ org/store). This prize is award- connected country,” said Amy summer, Donn hooked up his to become bicycle tourists by region is booming and it’s Windsor, Ontario. Cycling routes such as the ugrr. ed to the person who attracts Corbin, awards committee trailer to rescue a group of providing guidance and train- predicted to continue affecting the most new members to chair. cyclists stranded by a nasty ing. They also maintain a bank the area for the next 20 years. Adventure Cycling. • Donn Olson, recipient thunderstorm. of loaner travel cases and go to North Dakota has no immedi- Congratulations to these of the 2011 June Curry • Kevin Cashman of great lengths to accommodate ate plans to widen shoulders lucky members and to all of Trail Angel Award, was Apogee Adventures special logistical requests. One where necessary to make our monthly winners as well! “really shocked was awarded the 2011 nominator emphasized that the cycling safer. If you want to get in on the Pacesetter Award. staff at Jim’s Bicycle Shop truly Consequently, we are action in 2012, visit the con- Founded over a decade go out of their way “to help planning to change the route test page (page 54) to learn ago with the goal of creat- someone have a great touring extensively in North Dakota. For about all of the ways that you ing engaging and challeng- experience.” both the Northern Tier and the can enter to win. This year’s ing tours for high school • The 2011 Volunteer Lewis & Clark Trail, the new prizes include an Ortlieb travel aged kids, the company of the Year Award went to routing will follow much of the set, a Burley Travoy, an Old now offers dozens Leslie Wills of Grand Haven, I-94 corridor. On the Northern Man Mountain Sherpa rear of tours that teach Michigan. Leslie’s tireless effort Tier Route, the eastern third of rack, and more. The grand kids the importance made it possible to gain all of Section 3 and all of Section 4 prize is a Rapid 1 bicycle from of hard work, the necessary support for the are being re-routed. Heading Giant. persistence, designation of U.S. Bike Route east, the new routing begins All of our prizes were gen- and dedica- 35 in Michigan. Adventure in Wolf Point, Montana, and erously donated by these busi- tion. “The Cycling’s Special Projects rejoins the route at Fargo, nesses because they

point- Director Ginny Sullivan said, . 27,1963)

North Dakota. On the Lewis ct believe in the mission

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are being re-routed. Heading ll consider supporting a bicycling tion to Adventure Cycling and o west, the new routing begins rC CUSTOM FRAME The construction for Adventure these great sponsors the goals of the U.S. Bicycle nte trip lends itself well to I at Stanton, North Dakota, and as you gear up for the building confidence and Route System project.” hio Cycling’s office expansion is on schedule. The basic steel rejoins the existing route at , O 2012 touring season.

character in our stu- Learn more about the ace (not aluminum or carbon fiber) frame is in place and l p

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(5 ready for components. By late May the building will be finished and the grounds New Northern Tier can be found in Adventure e and Lewis & Clark maps will Cashman. at adventurecycling.org/ l restored so that we can properly accommodate our cycling visitors as we did this

sip Cycling’s Cyclosource catalog “Our hope awards. be available by late May. eg and online store. r PUSH America – Journey of Hope group (inset) before the building work began. g

56 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 201 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 57 ADS ADS

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58 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 59 classified ads continued Maine marketMarketplace ads start at $195 per issue. For rate information, place please please contact Rick Bruner. Phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, Email: [email protected].

VEM R OntREAL 2012 — Experience vine- yards, villages, and La Route Verte on this pedal into the heart of Montreal. 3- and lobster 4-day options departing 5/31 & 6/1. Most meals, professional guides, SAG, lifetime memories. www.localmotion.org/vermont real; 802-861-2700.

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September Escapade™ TRIRI® — S eptember 16-21, 2012. Scenic, historic tour of southeastern Indiana with inn or camping overnights at Indiana State Parks, two layover days, and ten catered meals. Contact: 812-333- 8176; [email protected]; or www.triri.org.

Oregon Memories — W hen it comes to dazzling combinations of show-stopping landscapes and world class cycling, it’s hard to beat Oregon. Whether you’re looking for the magnificent volcanic vistas and deep for- est of the Cascade Region which can be found on our Cascadian Traverse or you’re looking for the craggy coastlines and sandy beaches of our Oregon Coastal Odyssey, we have the perfect Oregon tour for you. www.adventure- cycling.org/tours (800) 755-2453.

Self-Contained Adventure Awaits — Just getting in to self-contained touring? Or maybe you’d like a laid-back week in the saddle? Spend a week biking and basking in the warmth of the sun along the Atlantic Ocean shoreline on our Cape Cod Pilgrimage, enjoy the wonderful display of greenery on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula with our Great Lakes tour, or take in the heart of New York’s Finger Lakes regions on our Finger Lakes tour; all amazing, first-timer approved self- contained tours! www.adventurecycling.org/ tours (800) 755-2453.

60 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 61 The Clubman Era Mile Supporters of Adventure Cycling’s Route Network Open Road Gallery has returned THANK YOU! greenland goes to cuba Adventure Cycling would like to thank of researching, designing, and printing by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple those who have sponsored miles or panels Adventure Cycling produced maps. Your on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, tax-deductible gift ensures that we can the Lewis & Clark Trail, the Pacific Coast continue to research new routes, update Route, and the route that started it all — existing maps, and provide our resources the TransAmerica Trail. for all cyclists into the future. Cyclists who sponsor miles and panels Please consider supporting these amaz- support the development and maintenance ing bicycle routes. $200 will support a of the Adventure Cycling Route Network mile of the Great Divide Route, the Lewis and play an important role in establishing & Clark Trail, the Pacific Coast Route or new cycling routes like the recently cre- the TransAmerica Trail. You can sponsor a ated Underground Railroad Alternate, the mile online at www.adventurecycling.org/ Northern Tier North Dakota re-route, and buyamile the upcoming Bicycle Route 66 maps. The donors listed below sponsored As a nonprofit organization, we depend miles or panels between February 1, 2011 on your financial donations. The price of a through January 31, 2012. map covers only a portion of the total cost

Pacific Coast Route Lewis & Clark Trail The stunningly beautiful vistas are a This route was created to celebrate the anni- cyclists dream as you travel along the versary of the Corps of Discovery’s 1804- Washington, Oregon, and California coasts. 1806 historic journey across the continent. It offers cyclists the opportunity to follow the $200 path of the intrepid explorers while creating John Chapman, Malibu, CA their own adventures by bicycle. Edd Cochran, Oklahoma City, OK $100-$250 “Travel is fateful to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness … Broad, wholesome views of men and The Pashley “Country” Clubman Tom Granvold, Santa Clara, CA Anonymous (1) things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.” - Mark Twain reflects on the era when one bike Thom Pence, Friday Harbor, WA Tom Duquette, Virginia Beach, VA would be used for many purposes Ellen Shapiro, San Francisco, CA Barbara Kletzke, Waukesha, WI - touring, club races and riding to Martine Bedard and Andy Holmes are artists from Rossland, British Columbia, and are in no danger Brian Shunamon, Boulder, CO Gerard Pallotta, Boston, MA work in between. With generous of letting themselves or their daughters vegetate. Sylvie is now nine and Lily is seven, but their Bruce Tiebout, Shoreline, WA Brandon Sitzmann, Washington, DC clearances under its centrepull Terry Toland, Vancouver, WA first bicycle trip was a Canada to Mexico tour in trailers when they were two and one. On this first brakes, this Clubman is equipped T ransAmerica Trail trip, Martine’s bike was carrying weight poorly in the front so on the second day Andy rode all the with modern derailleur gears for ease $800-$2,500 way back home and exchanged it for another. “That gesture,” says Martine, “illustrates true love.” of use, whilst retaining the classic The route that started it all! The TransAm Anonymous (1) Now that the girls are a little older, they can have even larger adventures. This photo was taken direct-acting down tube shifters. Trail was established for our celebration of Jody Auldridge, Ventura, CA the U.S. Bicentennial in 1976 and launched on the first leg of a 10-month trip. The family rode from their homes in Rossland to Tucson, Arizona t

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&OHMBOE Anonymous (1) jaunt around Cuba. “The girls really love to travel and don´t complain much,” says Martine. “They Since its inception, the Great Divide has Peter Bower, Phoenix, AZ loved the bike trips and we were constantly surprised at their keenness and resiliency. Even on the brought a sense of accomplishment and Michael Brown, Allentown, PA odd long day they just kept trucking.” adventure to thousands of cyclists who Timothy Carey, Philadelphia, PA “But how do they afford to take a whole year off?” you might wonder. Martine is a teacher, and have explored the dirt roads that trace the every year she allows her school to keep 20 percent of her pay. That way, after 4 years, she’s able to continental divide from Canada to Mexico. Eric Chael, Albuquerque, NM Eric Gananian, Atherton, CA take a year off at 80 percent salary. The couple is also having several art shows during their year on the road. You can view their charming and colorful work at artforpeople.ca. Hand-Built in England since 1926 $150-$200 Johnny Gooch, Bemidji, MN Jody Auldridge, Ventura, CA Jim Leake, Waynesboro, VA *Greenland the stuffed bear does not help pedal but he pulls his weight by Dan Domes, Prince George, BC Daniel Bryant Morris, Alexandria, VA For more information please visit Maria Elena Price, Fort Collins, CO looking cute at all times and being undiscerningly snuggly. BritishBicycle.com Mary McCoy, Arvada, CO Wanda Roach, Abiquiu, NM Brian Shunamon, Boulder, CO From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2012 Adventure Cycling Association. Brian Shunamon, Boulder, CO Al Slavin, Leadville, CO

62 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2012 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 63 Adventure Cycling Association Non-profit P.O. Box 8308 U.S. POSTAGE Missoula, Montana 59807-8308 PAID Adventure Cycling Association

O ld Roads, Expanding Horizons, New Friends e l sip

eg r g

Luggage transport, catered meals, camping & motel options.

Texas Hill Country • New Braunfels, TX • April 7-13 Wild Flowers & Rivers • Silverthorne, CO • Aug 11-17 Blue Ridge Bliss • Front Royal, VA • June 2-8 Oregon Coastal Odyssey • Eugene, OR • Aug 18-24 Cycle Utah • St George, UT • June 9-15 Great Lakes Relaxed • Mackinaw City, MI • Sept 8-15 Cycle Montana • Missoula, MT • June 23-29 Freedom Flyer • Philadelphia, PA • Sept 8-16 Cycle Washington II • Redmond, WA • July 16-23 Wine & Harvest • Sausalito, CA • Sept 16-23 Cycle Divide Montana • Whitefish, MT • July 14-20 C&O Canal/GAP • Arlington, VA • Sept 29-Oct 6

Fully supported tours with adventurecycling.org/toursinfo