PANEL TASTING Roussillon reds This region might be synonymous with Languedoc, says Rosemary George MW, but the two areas are distinct, with Grenache to the fore here, as well as experimentation Roussillon, which coveRs the whole of the department 0 5 10 15 of the Pyrénées-orientales, is often grouped with the A9 languedoc as languedoc-Roussillon – in reality it is quite kilometres COTES DU N distinct, with its own history and traditions. Roussillon did MAURY ROUSSILLON- not become part of France until 1659 and it remains very VILLAGES Maury catalan in atmosphere, with the Pyrenees providing a point of contact, rather than a barrier with spain. Perpignan, the Rivesaltes capital, enjoys a spanish influence in the way that narbonne, not so many kilometres further north, does not. FRANCE Perpignan Although the grape varieties of languedoc and Mediterranean Roussillon are similar, it’s really Grenache that accounts for Sea the typicity of Roussillon. The original vocation of much of COTES DU the region was vin doux naturel, the fortified wine of Maury, ROUSSILLON Banyuls and Rivesaltes, for which Grenache is well suited. The development of dry table wines has been a much more A9 BANYUIS Céret AND recent development. This was a region that has been PYRENEES COLLIOURE dominated by village co-ops, but things are changing, with a growing number of talented independent vignerons A7 maintaining vineyards of old carignan as well as Grenache, Bordeaux Port River ALT Vendres and following organic viticulture, if not natural winemaking. Bay of FRANCE Biscay Rhône EMPORDA River Divided territory Toulouse Garonne Marseille Three river valleys break up the countryside – the Agly, Têt PYRENEES Figueres and Tech – and the soils comprise limestone, clay, schist, LANGUEDOC- ROUSSILLON quartz and granite. essentially the appellations of Roussillon NAVARRA A7 divide into two, with larger and simpler côtes du Roussillon covering 118 villages in the southern part, while smaller SPAIN Barcelona CATALUNYA Mediterranean SPAIN côtes du Roussillon villages feature 32 villages to the north Sea of the Têt adjoining the appellation of corbières. it only produces red wine and four villages have been singled out for recognition (caramany, latour de France, Tautavel and l’esquerde), but any difference is hard to discern. The village that does stand out is Maury, with vineyards on an Roussillon: know your vintages island of schist, surrounded by a sea of limestone. The Maury sec Ac was created in 2011, and recognises the 2013 A late harvest; wines with higher 2009 Another great vintage, similar considerable improvement in the table wines of the area. acidity, giving freshness. to 2007. last, but by no means least is collioure, the twin of the vin doux naturel Banyuls, except that the appellation for 2012 lower yields; quality varies 2008 More approachable than 2007. collioure followed 35 years later in 1971. The same vineyard within the different parts of Roussillon. can make either appellation, as they come from the same 2007 Great vintage; balanced and grape varieties. it all depends on the wine grower. 2011 Rich, concentrated vintage; the structured and drinking well now. Another village worthy of note is calce. Gerard Gauby wines need time. was a pioneer here in the 1980s and others have followed 2006 hot summer, with ripe wines. his lead. There are now at least six estates in this village 2010 A ripe year boasting rich wines. Drink up. close to the Agly valley, lying between the Pyrenées and corbières. For Gauby the character of calce is determined by the old vines and by a freshness coming from a climate that is influenced by both the sea and mountains. Roussillon: the facts Although calce may fit into the côtes du Roussillon Production figures for principal red appellations in 2013: villages Ac, many of the wines are labelled iGP côtes IGP Côtes Catalanes 3,814ha catalanes, or even vin de France. The grape varieties are Collioure 325ha usually the same as for the appellation, but maybe not in the Côtes du Roussillon 4,473ha correct proportions, as three varieties are required for côtes C du R Villages 1,741ha du Roussillon villages, and the quest for experimentation Total of whole area 22,019ha leads to single-varietal wines, or a blend of just two. Rosemary George MW is is a calce represents the nub of experimental winemaking in Grapes Grenache noir 4,737ha; syrah 4,190ha; carignan previous Decanter World Roussillon, and an example that is being followed elsewhere 2,659ha; Mourvèdre 782ha Wine Awards Regional Chair in the region, as Roussillon tries to shake off its reputation Production (2013) 26 co-ops account for 70% of the for Languedoc-Roussillon for simple quaffing wine. it is now a region of considerable production (versus 64 accounting for 78% in 1996), with and writes on www.taste individuality that can stand alone, without the languedoc. 380 independent cellars (as opposed to 324 in 2000). languedoc.blogspot.com ➢ DECANTER • February 2 0 1 5 | 7 5 PANEL TASTING Roussillon reds have been tasting full-bodied wines that would Entry criteria: The results cheer you up enormously on a winter’s day.’ producers and UK Highly Recommended simon Taylor agreed: ‘we tasted a lot of wines agents were invited 17–18.25pts (90–94pts) A poor result given the high expectations of the tasting. nevertheless the broad côtes du Roussillon that were either just primary fruit and not much to submit their villages appellation, as well as Maury, provides some decent drinking. christelle Guibert reports else, or were spoiled by excessive and/or poor latest-release dry oak.’ Field agreed that this tasting should have Roussillon reds been ‘a revelation’ but found that some of the (minimum £8 retail The souTh oF France has enjoyed a great reputation of ‘We should have been tasting ‘old traditional ways’ were still in evidence. price). One wine per late as the source of exciting wines, many of great value The scores looking at the different appellations, Field felt producer was Domaine Boudau, Padri, Côtes du (see p82). But our panel of experts was far from ecstatic the côtes du Roussillon villages Ac showed best, premitted from wines that would cheer you up 82 wines tasted about this selection of latest-release Roussillon reds, while the individually named villages had too these appellations: Roussillon Villages 2012 Decanter average score: 17.25/20pts expecting much more character on show. on a winter’s day’ Rosemary George MW many reduced wines and were overoaked. ‘The Côtes du Roussillon, 0 (90+/100pts) with only 6% of the wines rated above Recommended, Outstanding iGP côtes catalans, where we expected to find Côtes du Roussillon it was a very disappointing result. simon Field Mw felt that who think you can just buy three hectares of old vines and more excitement, were also a disappointment Villages (and Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 17 Roussillon was still in the shadow of neighbouring then can charge £30 in your first vintage. These are very 5 almost across the board.’ he said. with a minimum named villages), Rosemary George MW 17 Simon Taylor 18 languedoc. ‘Both the wine trade and consumers associate often wines made from low-yielding hillside vines and Highly recommended retail price in this tasting of £8, Taylor felt that Côtes de Catalanes, PoA Hourlier Wines Roussillon with Grenache – high-alcohol vin doux naturel. which tend to be more expensive than the wines from the the quality of the basic côtes du Roussillon wines Maury Sec and harmonious nose of plush raspberry coulis, black The region is a catalan enclave between France and spain languedoc or even the southern Rhône.’ 47 was poor. ‘if you were in the languedoc, this level Coullioure fruits and a savoury hint. very ripe, rounded and Recommended where everything seems neither French nor spanish, and so The results also showed how difficult the 2013 vintage of quality would cost you around £6.50.’ well-textured, with a meaty Mourvèdre element. it’s taking a lot longer for the region to find its place.’ was – the majority of the wines submitted. Roussillon 28 on a positive note, Field found the selection Decadent flavour of tapenade with nicely This lack of a regional identity is not the only problem. producers may have claimed 320 days of sunshine but, Fair of dry Maury wines the most interesting. ‘it’s an integrated oak and tannins. Youthful but drinking ‘Roussillon also has a big divide between what the growers according to Rosemary George Mw, many wines tasted individual style. You could substitute them for well now. Drink 2015-2020 Alcohol 14.5% are doing, and the very low-cost bulk wine,’ explained Field. green – ‘a word you don’t associate with the south of 2 valpolicella Ripasso or Amarone because they ‘You can get a côtes de Roussillon, bought in bulk, for under France’. she described the vintage as ‘a tricky one, with Poor feel quite late-picked, quite dense, quite E1 a bottle, but even the international buyers tend to look to Grenache suffering from coulure, and where yield was concentrated and slightly Porty in style.’ spain for value. At the other end of the spectrum, you have down and producers had to keep on their toes all the time.’ 0 The panel found a few wines where the terroir Faulty growers trying to follow the path set by Gérard Gauby George also cited oak as a major issue. ‘A lot of wines stood out or, as Field put it, ‘where the difference [Domaine Gauby], who are trying to make Grenache more were spoiled by clumsy oak management or inappropriate between the schist, the decomposed granite or Domaine Seguela, Les Candalières, elegantly by growing grapes higher up.’ oak ageing – even by using the wrong barrels.