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Universidade Do Vale Do Rio Dos Sinos – UNISINOS Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos – UNISINOS Daniela Maria Schmitz Mulher na moda: recepção e identidade feminina nos editoriais de moda da revista Elle. Dissertação apresentada à Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos como requisito parcial para obtenção do título de mestre em Ciências da Comunicação. Orientadora: Prof.ª Dr.ª Jiani Adriana Bonin São Leopoldo, fevereiro de 2007 Daniela Maria Schmitz Mulher na moda: recepção e identidade feminina nos editoriais de moda da revista Elle. Dissertação apresentada à Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos como requisito parcial para obtenção do título de mestre em Ciências da Comunicação. Aprovado em 20/03/2007. BANCA EXAMINADORA ________________________________________________________ Prof.ª Dr.ª Kathia Castilho Cunha – Universidade de São Paulo ____________________________________________________ Prof.ª Dr.ª Nísia Martins do Rosário – Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos _____________________________________________________ Prof.ª Dr.ª Jiani Adriana Bonin - Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos Ao Flávio e a minha mãe. Pelo companheirismo, compreensão e por tornarem este projeto possível. Acima de tudo, pelo amor. AGRADECIMENTOS Ao final de uma jornada de dois anos de estudos, dedicação, noites e compromissos sociais por vezes comprometidos, tenho a alegria de chegar neste momento e agradecer especialmente aos que estiveram comigo nesta “viagem”. À Jiani, minha orientadora que deu muitos significados importantes a este posto: companheirismo, incentivo, dedicação, aprendizado, exigência e amizade. Como numa receita construída a dois, soube usar cada um destes ingredientes na medida e hora certa. Ao Flávio, meu marido que, além de compreensivo, foi um grande incentivador desde o princípio. Tua companhia e contribuição sempre me deixaram mais feliz e confiante. A minha mãe que por inúmeras vezes ouviu “este final de semana não dá pra viajar, vou ficar estudando”. Compreensiva, amorosa e sensível, sempre soube que a distância somente física não diminuiu a bonita ligação que temos. Às entrevistadas, lindas mulheres; inspiração e aprendizado. Às ricas contribuições das professoras Christa e Nísia na banca de qualificação; às sugestões da professora Denise Cogo; às indicações de leitura da professora Thaís Furtado e o apoio em importantes momentos da professora Suely Fragoso. À CAPES, pela viabilização desta pesquisa. Às amigas Ana Soledade, Angela e Cybele pelas indicações de colegas e amigas para participação na pesquisa. À Dani Machado que esteve disposta a contribuir sempre que precisei. Às gurias que não cansaram de dizer que ia dar tudo certo: Maria, Suzi, Paula, Luz, Claudinha, Michelle e Claudia M. E à Lisbela, a maior companheira de todas as madrugadas. “Hoje, sinto que parecemos mais relaxadas perante o assunto ‘provar que somos tão boas quanto eles’. Durante um tempo, algumas décadas, para ser mais exata, nos dedicamos tanto a ser profissionais bem-sucedidas, mães excelentes e donas-de- casa eficientes que, muitas vezes, esquecemos do que éramos de verdade: mulheres. Quando voltamos a lembrar disso? Alguns podem dizer que foi quando os estilistas famosos resolveram colocar o cor-de-rosa na moda junto com as flores, os tecidos transparentes, os espartilhos e as rendas. Outros, que foi quando a prótese de silicone se tornou artigo de primeira necessidade, mais comum do que as luzes nos cabelos. Haverá aqueles, ainda, que dirão que foi quando a Miranda do Sex and the City mudou seu visual, de executiva fria para mulher apaixonada, e uma legião de fãs foi atrás.” (Paula Taitelbaum, revista Claudia) RESUMO Tendo como objetivo geral investigar o fenômeno de midiatização da moda pensando, mais especificamente, desde a relação editoriais de moda da revista Elle/recepção, busco compreender como se dá a construção de um modelo de mulher na moda neste produto e seus usos, sentidos e apropriações por leitoras da revista, mediados pela identidade feminina. Para dar conta das especificidades do problema/objeto investigado, trabalhei com o conceito de midiatização e articulei perspectivas teóricas para a compreensão do produto (campo de efeitos de sentido, contrato de leitura, modos de endereçamento, linguagem de revista) e da recepção (recepção, mediações, consumo, identidade feminina). Acerca das estratégias metodológicas, na investigação do produto, trabalhei na análise de um corpus composto por três editoriais de moda da revista Elle, examinando as propostas de feminilidade ali constituídas na relação com a moda. No âmbito da recepção, realizei pesquisa sistemática com quatro leitoras da revista Elle e, desde uma perspectiva multimetodológica, articulei um conjunto de procedimentos metodológicos que incluíram histórias de vida, observação, entrevistas em profundidade e leitura compartilhada dos editoriais da revista, para apreender os usos, sentidos e apropriações realizados pelas leitoras e as mediações da identidade feminina, das competências de moda e de revista no consumo. Como resultados, evidencio a forma como o fenômeno de midiatização da moda tem participação na conformação das identidades femininas destas leitoras, principalmente pela matriz reguladora de significações que institui, como também os modos como a identidade feminina, as competências de moda e de revista construídas em trajetória operam mediações sobre os usos, sentidos e apropriações dos conteúdos de moda. Analiso ainda como se instituem os pactos de leitura na relação leitora/editoriais de moda de Elle, a partir de relações entre as ofertas dos editoriais, a identidade feminina e as competências de moda e de revista destas receptoras. Palavras-chave: moda, revistas femininas, midiatização, identidade feminina, recepção. SUMMARY Having the general objective of investigating the phenomenon of mediatization in fashion considering, more specifically, the reception of the fashion editorials of the magazine Elle, understanding of the construction of a model of a fashionable woman in this product is sought as well as the uses made of this model, the meanings taken and appropriations made by the magazines readers, mediated by the female identity. To deal with the specifics of the problem/object being studied, the concept of mediatization is examined and various theoretical aspects to the comprehension of the product are considered (meaning effects field, reading contract, address modes, magazine language) as well as some for reception (reception, mediation, consumption, female identity). Concerning methodological strategies, in the product investigation a corpus consisting of three editorials from the magazine Elle was used, with the proposals of femininity constituted in these in relation to fashion being examined. With regard to reception, systematic research involving four readers of Elle was carried out, and from a multi-methodological perspective, a set of methodological procedures were used which included life histories, observation, in-depth interviews and shared reading of the magazine editorials, to discover the uses, meanings and appropriations that these readers made of the notions of femininity, fashion awareness and the magazine in consumption. The results show the form in which the mediatization of fashion phenomenon has had effect in the shaping of the female identity of these readers, principally in the regulating matrix of meanings that are instituted, and also in the ways in which the female identity, the fashion awareness and that that the magazine presents operate as mediation on the uses, meanings and appropriation of fashion content How the reader/Elle fashion editorial pacts are instituted is analyzed, based on the relationship between the editorial offerings, female identity and the fashion awareness and the magazine of these receptors. Key Words: fashion, female magazines, mediatization, female identity, reception. SUMÁRIO 1. DE QUE MODA ESTAMOS FALANDO ............................................................. 11 1.1 A mulher e a moda .......................................................................................................... 15 1.1.1 O corpo da moda ........................................................................................................... 19 1.2 A moda entra na moda e na mídia ................................................................................... 31 1.3 Construindo o problema de pesquisa ............................................................................... 36 1.4 Objetivos e justificativa da pesquisa ................................................................................ 49 1.5 Apresentação dos capítulos ............................................................................................... 52 2. COMPREENDENDO A MIDIATIZAÇÃO DA MODA NA REVISTA ELLE ........... 55 2.1 Compreendendo a midiatização ........................................................................................ 56 2.1.1 Moda e midiatização ...................................................................................................... 62 2.2 A moda nas revistas femininas ......................................................................................... 67 2.2.1 A produção de sentidos na revista feminina Elle .......................................................... 76 2.2.2 Pensando a construção da mulher na moda da revista Elle ........................................... 83 2.2.2.1 Ordem dos conteúdos ................................................................................................. 86 2.2.2.2 Ordem do discurso
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