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10.1 Malga Ciapèla

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10.1 Malga Ciapèla 10.1 MALGA CIAPÈLA - OMBRETTA DI MARMOLADA MALGA CIAPÈLA-OMBRETTA DI MARMOLADA-OMBRETTOLA apart from a few short steeper stretches. Army vehicles, including artillery, went MEN AND EVENTS: MEMORIES OF THE GREAT WAR up this track during the Great War to bring provisions and ammunition to the Ezio Garibaldi saved by an anonymous DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE The Costabella-Marmolada sector HQ, under Brigade-Colonel Peppino Garibaldi, soldiers on the firing line on the Ombretta side of Marmolada. The short cut, a steep infantryman Uphill, sometimes on slight inclines and sometimes steep under the overhanging south wall the son of Ricciotti and the grandson of Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Hero of Two Worlds, path, is a turning up on the right, whereas the mule track, wider and with hair- During one of the innumerable attacks on of Marmolada to the 2,080-metre-high former Ombretta Refuge, now named Falier. Ren- was at Sottoguda, in a house that still exists next to the Ai Serrai Hotel, which has pin bends, goes towards Le Pale del Fop (2,550 m). Taking the path to the left, Col di Lana, while leading his troops to the dezvous: Sottoguda. Provincial road SP 641 to the Fedaia pass goes through the picturesque now been transformed into a general store. you will get to a fork leading to the Franzedas valley. Keeping right, you get to the attack Lieutenant Ezio Garibaldi was wound- Serrai gorge (also negotiable on foot, 2 km) to Malga Ciapèla (Rocca Pietore) at 1,449 me- In May 1915 a 9th Army Corps garrison was stationed at Malga Ciapèla, in a num- beginning of the Ombretta valley, which opens up to show the gigantic south ed in the throat by a splinter, probably from tres. You can also get to Malga Ciapèla along the SP 641 by car instead of entering Sot- ber of barrack buildings with dormitories, facilities, stores and motor vehicle parks. wall of Marmolada and the Pale di Fop to the left. At the end Mount Ombrettola shrapnel bursting in the air above the in- toguda. There is a car park outside the bottom Marmolada cable car station. The first sec- There was also a hospital at Malga Ciapèla, in the hotel of the same name, which (2,931 m) closes the valley with Sasso Vernale (3,058 m) and the eastern Om- fantry. He fell to the ground bleeding and tion of the cableway goes to Serauta-Punta Rocca at 2,950 metres, where you will find the has been reconstructed and enlarged. Near here there was a Revenue Guard detach- bretta peaks (2,653 m). unconscious while his men went on with the Marmolada Great War Museum with a restaurant and various facilities. The Punta Serauta ment in a small masonry barrack building that still stands, modernised and with some Unique in shape, the Fungo di Ombretta (the Ombretta Mushroom, 2,653 m) stands action. There was no time to stop to come and Vu saddle War Monument area goes from about 3,000 to 3,065 metres. The second ca- minor alterations. out against the sky in rather an irreverent attitude, overlooking the Venice Alpine to the assistance of those who fell. When ble car section takes you to an altitude of 3,250 metres, where there is the Grotto of Our Near the Fedaia pass at the beginning of the Arei valley there is a small cemetery Club Falier Refuge (managers: the Dal Bon family of Canale d’Agordo). During the they retreated, however, unable to sustain the Lady of the Snows dug out of the living rock by the Alpine troops and a bronze statue by in a clearing on the right not far from the road which was the temporary resting war this was the Ombretta Refuge, built in 1911 and occupied by the 206th Com- unequal fight against the Austrian and Ger- sculptor Franco Fiabene, a gift from Pope John Paul II when he visited Marmolada in 1979. place of the first dead in this sector (the bodies were transferred to the Pian di Sale- pany of the Val Cordevole Battalion commanded by Captain Arturo Andreoletti, man machine-guns, an infantryman saw the From Malga Ciapèla you can go up a first tarmac section of road by motorised vehicles. The sei War Cemetery in the 1930s). who was one of the founders of the Italian Alpine Regiment Association after the officer on the ground. He examined the body road is narrow and the direction signs by the Hotel Malga Ciapèla indicate a camp at 800 The Italian troops communicated with advanced positions on the Marmolada front war. It was destroyed by Austrian shells, re-built and dedicated to Onorio Falier, with to see whether it was dead or alive and saw m, a farm restaurant at 1800 m, and that the road is Italian Alpine Club route 610. Other line at the Fedaia pass, the Padon pass, Mount Mesola, the Antermoia valley, the funds given by his family. a red shirt under the grey-green uniform, re- Ezio Garibaldi wounded on Col di Lana, 1916. route signs point the way to a number of other high-altitude mountaineering excursions. Ombretta pass, Forca Rossa and other surrounding spots such as Col Toront, Col Da The mule track then leads into a path that passes in front of the grassy Malga Om- alised that it was a Garibaldino and lifted it DURATION Daut and Mount Migogn. On the other side of the imposing ridge of Marmolada, the bretta, 1,904 metres, an hour’s walk from the refuge. Route 610 from the Falier Refuge onto his shoulders, carried the dead weight to the first advanced first-aid post Austrians held positions on Padon, Col di Lana, Settsass, Sasso di Stria, Lagazuoi, To- leads to the Ombretta pass; the expert or the historian’s eye will see traces of the From 3 to 4 hours on a normal path, depending on walking speed: short cut 2,5 to 3,5 hours. and entrusted it to the Red Cross stretcher-bearers (he was presumably taken to fane and onwards in the direction of Cadore and Mount Piana. 1915-1917 war in every direction. Route 612 goes up the Ombretta valley; you can the Digonera hospital, ed. n.). DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY About a kilometre after the campsite, the gravel mule track can only be negoti- also head for the Banca di Valfredda saddle (2,777 m, route 678); or take route That nameless infantryman saved him from death. Ezio Garibaldi suffered all None. High mountain equipment needed. ated on foot, first climbing steeply and then continuing on a constant gradient 612 to the Bachet saddle (2,836 m) or the Ombrettola pass (2,864 m). the rest of his life, enduring serious pain because the surgeons kept him from being asphyxiated by inserting a tube of some kind into his windpipe, which had MARMOLADA been reduced to pulp. Live oral testimony from Anita Garibaldi, Enzo’s daughter, The view is taken up by the majesty of the best-known mountain group in the at the Red Cross Nurses during the Great War meeting at Arabba in July 2005 Dolomites, which stands among Veneto, Trentino and Alto Adige (South Tyrol) and the Cordevole, San Pellegrino, Biois and Fassa valleys. It culminates at a height of 3,342 metres (some say 3,44). The Austrians and Germans call it Die Marmolata. Curzio Malaparte wrote, “I have been clambering about in the rain in these mountains for a week: Col di Lana, the Contrin pass, the Fedaia pass on Marmolada ... where I fought as a private from June 1915 to the end of October 1917 ... I climb up the grassy slopes of Col di Lana, which we conquered one inch at a time under the bullets of the Austrian machine-guns and the shells from the fort at La Corte; from Caprile to Digonera, from Digonera to Pieve di Livinallongo, up the two terrible ribs of Salesei and Andraz up to the summit, up the valley that we called the Valley of Death, so full of dead was it, to Napoleon’s Hat, to the top of the mountain, and then on to the narrow rib of Mount Sief, towering over Arabba. And we were badly kitted out, badly fed, our boots without nails, almost without weapons, neither machine-guns nor hand-grenades, supported by poor artillery and only armed with the poor, dear 91 rifle.” Position at the Ombretta pass. Italian barbed wire at Serauta, 1916 (Marmolada Museum Archive). The circle shows the cave where the 15 infantrymen were buried by the mine’s explosion. Small 1915-1917 mountain gun (Bartoli Archive, Marmolada Museum). Ruins of Italian position at Ombretta/ Ombrettola. THE 15 ITALIAN INFANTRYMEN BURIED BY A MINE The Vu saddle on Marmolada still holds a last secret. On 26 September 1917 Ital- Plan of the ians and Austrians were both frantically at work digging out mine tunnels on the Austrian City of Ice saddle with the intention of blowing up the enemy ensconced a few metres away, (Marmolada so near that during the day the sentries could look each other in the eye. The Aus- Museum Archive). trians won this dramatic race against time, and in the middle of the night their counter-mine surprised 15 Italian infantrymen and their Lieutenant Rosso, who Cabled path on the had already won a Silver Medal for Valour. The explosion caused their cavern to Forcella a Vu ridge to the Vu THE CITY OF ICE saddle fitted up by collapse, burying them all.
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