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This bookbelongsto: James Rushforth rockfax.com © ROCKFAX 2014, 2019 Reprinted withminorupdates November 2019 First published by ROCKFAX in August 2014 source data from openstreetmap.org Some mapsbasedonoriginal All mapsby ROCKFAX Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) (ISO 14001 printers) andFSCcertified Printed Limited inEurope LFBookServices Edited by Alan James or ascredited photography by James Rushforth by James Rushforth Text, topos anduncredited photography ISBN 978187334197 sustainable forestry made from 100% virgin fibre sourced from paper This bookisprinted onFSC-certified A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish writtenotherwise withoutprior ofthecopyright owner. permission form orby any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or reproduced, stored inaretrieval system, ortransmitted inany reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart be The Rock ClimbsRock and Cima Fanes Sud.Photo:PatitucciPhoto.com traverse of Tomaselli This page:Thedifficultandexposed starting 384 -onCinqueTorri. traverse pitchofViaMyriam (V+) -page Cover photo:Lynne Hemptononthestunning (VF5C) -page324 -on 1

Tre Cime Misurina Cortina Tofana Falzarego Valparola North Fanis Sella Pordoi Val di Fassa Catinaccio History Introduction Città deiSassi VF Col Rodella VF DelleMèsules-Possnecker Sella Towers Piz Ciavazes Sass Pordoi Face Northwest . . . Sass Pordoi SouthFace VF Cesare Piazzetta VF Via delle Trincee -LaMesola -SouthFaceMarmolada . BrigataVF Eterna -Punta Serauta . VF Marmolada West Ridge . Passo Fedaia and Pian deiFiacconi . Fedaia Pass/Marmolada Group VF DeiFinanzieri/Colac . Penia diCanazei . . VF Col Ombert/Kaiserjeger VF MagnificiQuattro VF Franco Gadoti. Val di Fassa VF Laurenzi-Molignon . VF Sentiero Massimiliano VF ValDuron . VF Catinaccio d'Antermoia Vajolet Towers Punta Emma Cima Catinaccio Porte Neigre VF Roda di Vael . Catinaccio/Rosengarten . Climbing DestinationPlanner Finding and Timing Climbing Grades Climbing Gear. Climbing . Via Ferrata DestinationPlanner Grades, GearandEtiquette . Via Ferrata Other Activities Mountain Biking . Road Biking. . Guiding Services Shops and Tourist Information . Rifugios Where to Stay When to Go Without aCar Getting There . Where are theDolomites? . Emergencies andRescue . Logistics . Rockfax Publications Acknowledgements Other GuidebooksandMaps. Symbol, Mapand Topo Key . RockfaxThe App. Culture . Geology third parties, or property arising from arising such persons seeking reliance orproperty third on thisguidebook as an assurance for parties, their own safety. judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors ofthis bookdonotrecognise for ordamagecaused to, any liability injury orby, climbers, use their own judgment as to whetherthey are proficient enough to tackle that route. Thisbook isnotasubstitute for andproperexperience grades setin this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty oftheclimbs. Climbers who attempt aroute standard should ofa particular of routes withinthisguideare recorded for historical reasons only andnoreliance shouldbeplacedonthe accuracy ofthedescription. The The inclusionofaclimbing area inthisguidebookdoes notmeanthatyou have to ofaccessortheright climbuponit. aright The descriptions ...... Guidebook FootnoteGuidebook 206 208 170 160 166 194 172 126 124 122 164 162 106 104 100 210 102 176 112 116 110 90 48 32 98 96 92 78 72 68 64 63 60 58 56 54 50 46 44 42 40 38 34 30 28 26 24 94 84 62 36 22 20 76 18 17 16 14 12 74 4 6 Odle/Geisler Group Val Gardena and Tridentina Crag Frea VF Sandro Pertini Sass Rigais Sass Dlacia Valparola North Sasso delleNove/Sass delesNu Sas dlaCrusc/Sasso dellaCroce Fanis Group . VF PizdaLech Vallon . Sas Ciampac. Oscura dellaLuna . Brigata TridentinaVF . Torre andMurdePisciadù. Brunico Punte (Zimes)diFanes andLagazuoi Grande VF Tomaselli VF Circuit VF SkiClub18 Bianchi . VF Marino VF Ivano Dibona VF MichielliStrobel Punta Fiames Ettore Bovero . and Cortina Ampezzo Basin. VF Averau Averau . Cinque Torri . AverauCinque Torriand VF Punta Anna andLamon/Formenton . VF Giovanni Lipella . Tofana diRozes . Tofana Group . VF Col deiBos/degli Col deiBos Falzarego Towers . Piccolo. Sass deStria/Hexenstein Cima Grande West andSouthFaces Tre Cime. VF Merlone Il Gobbo, Torre delDiavolo and Torre Leo. Torre Wundt . Punta Col de Varda Monte Popena Basso Misurina Area . Route Index VF DelleScalette . . VF Sentiero deLuca/Innerkofler Cima Ovest FaceCima Grande North Cima Piccolissima. Punta Frida Cima Piccola. Map andGeneral Index . Crag Index Via Ferrata Index Contents ...... The Dolomites ...... 300 234 250 248 244 238 260 296 290 282 278 272 268 292 288 302 324 424 408 406 368 360 358 356 348 344 336 328 426 422 372 350 330 448 446 442 438 436 432 430 428 454 488 482 468 464 458 486 496 495 495 490 412 276 318 416 414 418 374 474 3

Tre Cime Misurina Cortina Cinque Torri Tofana Falzarego Valparola North Fanis Val Gardena Sella Pordoi Marmolada Val di Fassa Catinaccio 4 The Dolomites Introduction Introduction The Dolomites 5

Catinaccio Located in northern and with a unique mix of Italian and Austrian culture, the Dolomites is home to some of the grandest yet most accessible climbing and via ferrata in the world.

The area is steeped in history and peppered with the names of some of ’s Catinaccio greatest historical figures - Comici, Lacedelli, Mariacher, Messner, Piaz, Preuss, Vinatzer and Val di Fassa Huber to name but a few.

The climbing offers something to appeal to every taste, where both the enthusiastic novice di Fassa Val

Marmolada and seasoned veteran are catered for in abundance; single sport crags sit next to kilometre-long traditional routes; historical 'rites of passage' run parallel to modern bolted desperates. Alongside these rock climbs are the via ferrata, historical and modern mountain routes protected with metal wires and interspersed with breathtaking ladders and unlikely Marmolada

Pordoi suspension bridges. These provide aerial assault courses which combine the thrill of an ascent on rock with the security of a protected mountain scramble and give relatively straightforward access to some of the world's most striking summits. Pordoi

Sella All of this takes place in a scenically stunning and unique environment, the bright Alpine

meadows and blue sky lending colour to these so-called ‘Pale ’. There are enough crags, Sella pitches and cables in the Dolomites to keep someone going for many lifetimes. The variety

Val Gardena of climbing combined with the rich culture and history of this amazing part of the world are what brings climbers back here time and time again. If you have already experienced the Dolomites, flick through the pages to find some of the gems hidden alongside the classics. If Val Gardena Val you are visiting for the first time, prepare to be overwhelmed by what is undoubtedly one of

Fanis the most beautiful and rewarding climbing destinations in the world. Fanis Valparola North Valparola North Valparola Falzarego Falzarego Tofana Tofana Cinque Torri Cinque Torri Cinque Cortina Cortina Misurina Misurina Tre Cime

Patrick Deacon and Lynne Hempton enjoying a night-time ascent of Via Normale Quarta Bassa (III+) Cime Tre - page 402 - with star trails surrounding the north star and in the background. 6 The Dolomites Climbing History Climbing History The Dolomites 7

Catinaccio Early History Climbing in the Dolomites has a long and illustrious history, yet when mountaineering was

first taking off in earnest in Europe following the first ascent of in August 1786, Catinaccio the peaks of the Dolomites were still relatively unknown. In the late 1830s as part of his Val di Fassa 'Handbook for Travellers' series, the Londoner John Murray III published 'A Handbook for Travellers in Southern ', one of the first guides to cover the Dolomites in any depth.

This was published at the same time as Weber's 'Das Land Tirol', a di Fassa Val

Marmolada guidebook that covered much of the same area. These sparked a number of new publications and consequently, in the latter half of the 19th century, the majority of travellers to the Dolomites were wealthy members of the British or German nobility. In 1857, inspired by descriptions of the 'Pale Alps', mountaineer and naturalist Sir John Ball Marmolada

Pordoi ventured to the Dolomites and was the first recorded mountaineer to summit one of the Dolomites' great peaks, Monte Pelmo. He was soon followed by the eminent , a Vienna-born mountaineer who Pordoi quickly established himself as a pioneer in climbing. Accompanied by the local

Sella guides Francesco Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai and Franz Innerkofler (amongst other names found

commonly on first ascent details in the Dolomites) Grohmann had made the first ascents of Sella the three Tofana peaks, , the Marmolada and in just three years. In 1864 he

Val Gardena made the first recorded ascent of Piz Boè, although on his arrival at the summit he found indications that shepherds had beaten him to it - a sign of how, for many years, the mountains were simply a way of life as opposed to a passion. In 1869 he made the first ascent of Val Gardena Val Sassolungo, in honour of which in 1875 Sasso di Levante was renamed Grohmannspitze.

Fanis Grohmann's successes, and indeed his publication 'Karte der Dolomiten-Alpen' - the first

detailed map of the area - led to an influx of pioneering mountaineers, with notable first Fanis ascents continuing into the early 1900s. Valparola North As more of the major peaks saw first ascents, climbers naturally began to search for harder lines. New techniques were developed and bolder routes attempted, with climbers such as Tita Piaz and Paul Preuss (both responsible for their eponymous crack climbs in the

Catinaccio and the Tre Cime groups) pioneering routes in the Fifth . North Valparola

Falzarego Unsurprisingly the First World War brought a halt to pioneering climbing in the early 20th Century, although it did result in a boom in the construction of via ferrata (see page 50). Falzarego Between the Wars Tofana After the First World War a new wave of mountaineers turned their sights to the unconquered

faces, with and brothers Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai tackling the impressive Tofana north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in 1933 - an impressive feat even by modern Cinque Torri standards. This sparked an increase in new and daring routes, with famous names such as Micheluzzi and Cassin making their mark and signalling what is often thought of as the

'Golden Era' of climbing in the Dolomites, characterised by bold and difficult free climbs using Torri Cinque and aid techniques only when absolutely necessary. Again the onset of the Second Cortina World War resulted in an enforced pause in climbing. Cortina Post-war Period

Misurina The post-war period saw perhaps the most controversial period in the Dolomites' climbing history, with an increase in '' style routes that prioritised a direct line over purist climbing ethics, and used pitons and other artificial means in a somewhat disproportionate Misurina scale. Expansion bolts were developed and it seemed that traditional '' had met Tre Cime its end.

Riccardo Cassin on the first ascent of the Cassin (VIII) - page 485 - Cime Tre on of Cime Ovest in August 1935. Photo: Vittorio Ratti 8 The Dolomites Climbing History Climbing History The Dolomites 9 Catinaccio Catinaccio Val di Fassa Val di Fassa Val The Modern Era Marmolada In 1971, in response to the poor ethic developed in the post-war period, the South Tyrolean , already a well-known mountaineer for his first ascents in the Dolomites and the Alps, published an essay entitled 'The Murder of the Impossible'. In it, he likened Marmolada the demise of free climbing to the death of 'the dragon', imploring the climbing community Pordoi to revert to techniques. He himself opened numerous hard free climbs

in the Dolomites, including Grande Muro on Sass dla Crusc and the Messner Route on the Pordoi 2nd Sella Tower, routes which broke the barrier into the Seventh grade, a level long thought

Sella impossible.

More recently, thanks to improved equipment, more focus on training and a revolution in Sella free climbing, many difficult aid routes have been climbed free. Attraverso il Pesce on the

Val Gardena Marmolada was first climbed in 1981 by Koller and Sustr and was climbed free just six years later by Mariacher and Pederiva. In 1982 Mariacher had also put up Tempi Moderni entirely with 'traditional' free ethics - leader-based protection and pitons. These routes were devloped simultaneously with modern bolted climbs, another of Mariacher's climbs Tempi Gardena Val Modernissimi having being opened using bolts placed ground up in 1986. Fanis The improvements in climbing techniques and the growth of have seen technical climbing grades increase dramatically. High-grade free climbs of routes such Fanis

Valparola North as Via Italia by Bubo Bole, and Bellavista and Pan Aroma by Alex Huber on Cima Ovest, demonstrate how far climbing has come in just a few short decades. Testimony to the legacy of free climbing in the Dolomites, new free climbs are seeing a

revival with routes such as Gietl and Grube's Fairplay, climbed ground-up in 2010 using trad North Valparola

Falzarego gear and pegs and named for the climbing ethic it promotes. Mountaineering in the Dolomites has changed dramatically over the years, but the result is

an area where long traditional free climbs, modern bolted test pieces and short sport routes Falzarego live happily side by side. Tofana Tofana Cinque Torri Cinque Torri Cinque Cortina Cortina Misurina Misurina Tre Cime

Dave MacLeod on the crux pitch of Bellavista (X+/8b+) Cime Tre - page 483 - on Cima Ovest. Photo: Calum Muskett

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 11 The Dolomites The Giovanni Lipella (VF4C) - page 360 - via ferrata was instru- Inset photo: Trenches from the war are still found up near Inset photo: Trenches the summit of the Lagazuoi and in many other areas of the Dolomites, providing a chilling reminder of what happened di Rozes can be seen in the background where here. Tofana the mental to the war efforts in the area. Photo: Daniel Rushforth In War the A war memorial on the summit of , summit of Col on the A war memorial Wildey Photo: Daniel of much fighting. the site After After the War and Austro-Hungary, of the defeat With Conference, Peace Paris the 1919 following encompassed a large gains territorial Italy's 90% of which was , part of the South a was followed What German speaking. program and brutal Italianisation systematic people into Tyrolean the indoctrinate to language and culture. Italian Court the from a mandate following In 1991, signed was 'Il Pachetto' of Human Rights, the harmonious promote to - an agreement Overall of the two cultures. co-existence successful and has this has been hugely been hailed as one of the world's greatest of an integration of the complete examples ethnic minority. tri-lingual, speaking most locals are Today GermanItalian, and the local dialect Ladin. the enemy lines. The two most impressive The two impressive most lines. the enemy the Marmolada on and found are examples the MarmoladaAs glacier the Lagazuoi. an 'underground revealing is slowly it retreats and Austro-Hungarians the city' dug out by the On the Lagazuoi, ice. in the preserved the bottom tunnel from dug a forces Italian of rock 1000m over through of the mountain the mines under detonate to in an attempt page 336). (see the top occupying Austrians due adopted methods were Such extreme locations which made the inaccessible to these However take. to the peaks so difficult at a high price positions came and defensive the elements holding them against simply and 1916 of 1915 The winters ordeal. an was fatalities particularly and many were harsh injuries and cold-related caused by were avalanches. Austro-Hungarian the 1917 On 24 October near the through broke and German forces Kobarid (modern day of Caporetto town of one was followed What in ). the in history, defeats Italian the greatest the which formed from retreat disorderly to 'Farewell Ernest Hemingway's basis for in the Dolomites Thus ended the war Arms'. the to pushed back were and the Italians a position , just east of river with allied troops. held which they In War the Dolomites The

networks of tunnels in an attempt to reach reach to networks of tunnels in an attempt both sides went underground, digging vast digging vast underground, both sides went had a commanding field of fire. As a result, As a of fire. had a commanding field and those occupying the higher ground the higher ground and those occupying were covered with fields of barbed wire of barbed wire with fields covered were tops, already naturally difficult to access, access, to difficult naturally already tops, became a relative stalemate. The mountain The mountain stalemate. became a relative The war on the Dolomites front quickly quickly front on the Dolomites The war via ferrata, see page 51. via ferrata, ones. For more information on the history information of more For ones. existing wires and the addition of many new new of many and the addition wires existing as via ferratta led to a rapid consolidation of a rapid led to as via ferratta mountain paths protected by wire, known known wire, by paths protected mountain advantage provided by a network by of provided advantage . The tactical . Bovero Ettore and via ferrata the approaches to via ferrata Col dei Bos via ferrata to the approaches Old Italian field hospitals can be seen on hospitals field Old Italian also the site of an open-air war museum). museum). of an open-air war also the site the northwest side of Cinque Torri (now (now Torri the northwest side of Cinque Stria, on Piramide di Col dei Bos and on Stria, di Col on Piramide visible when descending from Sass di Sass when descending from visible Cortina and Misurina. Many trenches are are trenches Many Cortinaand Misurina. and in the immediate area surrounding surrounding area and in the immediate Fedaia, Valparola and Falzarego passes and Falzarego Valparola Fedaia, of these fortifications can be seen on the of the Austro-Hungarian lines. Evidence lines. Austro-Hungarian of the Italy stationed troops parallel and just south and parallel troops stationed Italy on the mountain tops. tops. on the mountain troops time to dig in and fortify their positions time to troops inadvertently giving the Austro-Hungarian Austro-Hungarian giving the inadvertently this the Italian army advanced slowly, slowly, army advanced this the Italian and conceded to the Italian forces. Despite Despite forces. the Italian and conceded to was abandoned by the Austro-Hungarians Austro-Hungarians the by abandoned was Cortina, the then capital of the Dolomites, Cortina, of the Dolomites, the then capital up strategic positions in the mountains. positions in the mountains. up strategic from the lowlands in the Dolomites to take take to in the Dolomites the lowlands from difficult to defend and promptly withdrew withdrew and promptly defend to difficult realised that their historical border was was border that their historical realised Austro-Hungary. The Austro-Hungarians The Austro-Hungarians Austro-Hungary. explore the Dolomites. explore on war declared Italy 1915 in May and cartridges are a common site as you and cartridges as you a common site are a long period, for neutral remaining After by this guidebook and trenches, barbed wire wire barbed trenches, this guidebook and by War World First of the fighting throughout the area covered covered the area throughout of the fighting in the Second World War. There is evidence is evidence There War. World in the Second the First World War and, to a lesser extent, lesser extent, a and, to War World the First The Dolomites were a major site of conflict in of conflict a major site were The Dolomites 10 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 12 The Dolomites Geology Flora and Fauna The Dolomites 13

Catinaccio Flora There are an estimated 2400 species of plant in the

Dolomites, although a relatively low number of these Catinaccio are the native and unique to the area. The sheer Val di Fassa nature of these mountains and the variety of terrain - meadows, woodland, high mountain pastures, scree

and rock - means it is to view species from di Fassa Val

Marmolada many different altitude 'belts'. There is no need to be a horticultural expert to appreciate the beauty that these plants lend to the landscape; the vibrant colours of the meadows and the contrasting pale Marmolada

Pordoi hues of the surrounding rock is one of the sights that make the Dolomites so uniquely beautiful. Perhaps one of the most striking flowers that can Pordoi be seen whilst climbing here is the Devil's Claw

Sella (Physoplexis comosa), a rock flower which grows up

to 1000m altitude and can be spotted clinging on to Sella some very hostile terrain.

Val Gardena Other typical plants include the song-inspiring Edelweiss (which is guaranteed to start you singing however hard you try to stop it) that flourishes in For those wanting more information, 'Mountain Gardena Val The rock formations on Sentiero Astaldi on the way to Punta Anna (VF5C) - page 368 - in the Tofana Group. Photo: Peter Braun the limestone landscape; and the Vanilla Orchid, a Flowers - The Dolomites' by Cliff Booker and David Charlton is highly recommended, providing a superb Fanis wonderfully fragrant flower found in the upper Alpine means of identifying flower species in a conveniently

meadows. The elusive and much-coveted Lady's Fanis Geology pocket-sized guidebook. The Dolomites take their name from Dieudonné Sylvain Guy Trancrede Grater de Dolomieu, Slipper Orchid can also be found in certain areas of Valparola North a French scientist who, in 1788, took a rock sample from the valley and sent it off for the Dolomites. analysis. The sample, a calcium and magnesium carbonate, was heralded as a new mineral The woodland is also very varied, with a notable presence of silver birch, larch and the ever- and was given the name of its discoverer before this in turn was applied to the mountains present dwarf pine, the latter of which is vital to maintaining the stability of the rocky ground it themselves. inhabits. North Valparola Falzarego In layman's terms, dolomite is formed when magnesium-rich groundwater moves through limestone, converting the calcite to dolomite. The formation of the Dolomites began during the Fauna period, around 250 million years ago. Over the course of several millennia, marine The same factors that have contributed Falzarego sediments built up on the ocean floor. A few million years later, the sea withdrew and the to the creation of such a wide range of Tofana area of the Dolomites became a flat coastal expanse. During the Eocene period the African plant life have also affected the wildlife

and European plates began to push against one another, causing the uplift and eventual population. Tofana emergence of the Alps, and in turn the Dolomites, from the sea. One of the most common sightings is Cinque Torri In more 'recent' history, the Dolomites were also subject to considerable change during the the Alpine marmot, which has boomed ice ages of the Quaternary period (about 3 million years ago to present day), which have in recent years thanks to conservation

sculpted many of the features we see today. and reintroduction efforts. This in Torri Cinque From a climber's perspective, although similar in chemical structure dolomite and limestone turn has had a direct impact on the Cortina present subtly different characteristics. Limestone is generally more easily eroded by the golden eagle, which now maintains a

elements into smooth slabs, whereas dolomite tends to be more horizontally stratified forming stable population with a good number Cortina the characteristic towers and spires associated with the Dolomites. Consequently, limestone of breeding pairs. Chamois can

Misurina is traditionally difficult to protect whilst dolomite typically presents more opportunity for gear often been seen climbing impossibly placements because of the presence of many cracks and pockets. The range of colour found steep scree slopes, whilst the ibex,

in dolomite can also be a good indicator as to the quality of the rock: orange rock is often once native to the Dolomites, was Misurina steep, overhanging and loose, black rock can indicate a wet water streak, and grey rock first re-introduced in 1965 and since Tre Cime commonly denotes dry rock that at some point has been cleaned with rain or water and is then the population has spread with consequently more solid and dry. significant colonies moving to the Sella, Marmolada and Cristallo ranges. Robbie Thurley going head to head with the locals. Photo: Andy Griffiths Cime Tre 14 The Dolomites Culture The Dolomites 15

The rich and varied culture found in the Dolomites today is a result of a historic collision between Catinaccio three distinct and separate cultures. Before the First World War the Dolomites were shared between the Austro-Hungarians and the Italians, with the border running just south of Cortina. As well as the Italian and Austrian populations, pockets of '', a local community spreading across five Catinaccio

Val di Fassa valleys, existed in the more remote uplands of the Dolomites. Following the war and the 1919 Paris Peace Conference, Italy was granted part of the Tyrol and the -Alto Adige regions, and three cultures were amalgamated. Val di Fassa Val

Marmolada Language Today German and Italian is spoken throughout the region and, more recently, Ladin has seen

a resurgence and received official state recognition. This has formed a tri-lingual society where Marmolada every citizen has the right to speak their own mother tongue. You will often see signs in all three

Pordoi languages and, to make matters even more confusing, places often have three different names.

For example, Arabba - a village below the Padon ridge and the starting point for the Via delle Pordoi Trincee - is 'Arabba' in Italian, 'Buchenstein' in German and 'Reba' in Ladin. For the purposes of this guide the mountain, route and place names are provided in Italian with occasional German

Sella alternatives where it is the more commonly used name. Although this can be confusing, it

does mean that, if you can speak Italian or German, you will be able to communicate well in Sella the Dolomites. Whilst some English is spoken in the larger towns, you won't find many English

Val Gardena speakers once you get into the mountain communities.

Cuisine Gardena Val This rich and unique blend of cultures seems to have retained the best of each heritage,

Fanis particularly from the point of view of the tourist; the architecture is typically Austrian, complete

with stunning flower displays on each balcony, whilst the cuisine is a wonderful blend of Tyrolean, Fanis Italian and Ladin specialities. Spatzle, kaiserschmarrn and of course strudel form part of 's

Valparola North contribution, whilst traditional Italian offerings such as spaghetti aglio olio, game ragu and pizza are offered alongside the local Ladin dishes of Canederli (bread dumplings), Casunzei (half-moon shaped ravioli) or the local Fortaes cakes, fried with sugar and jam. Valparola North Valparola

Falzarego Photo: Stephen Rotondo Falzarego Tofana Tofana Cinque Torri Cinque Torri Cinque Cortina Cortina Festivals

Misurina On religious and festival days many of the locals wear traditional Tyrolean dress, creating a picturesque scene with the spires of the Dolomites framing the background. Whilst walking into

crags you will hear the distinctive jingling of cow bells coming from many of the meadows, giving it Misurina a very 'Sound of Music' feel. The passes and tourist hubs like Corvara, Selva and Cortina are lively

Tre Cime and crowded, but once you get out into the rural villages and valleys such as the Val Duron the pace of life is much slower. Traditional farming methods are still used and it feels like taking a step

Wayne Wallace on the fantastic traverse pitches of the Big Cime Tre back in history to a time when life was much simpler. Micheluzzi (VI) - page 185 - at Piz Ciavazes. Photo: Michael Stanton 16 The Dolomites The Rockfax App Symbol, Map and Topo Key The Dolomites 17

Catinaccio The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on all Route Symbols Map and Topo Key mobile devices. Descent 100m 1 A good route/VF which is well worth the effort. Catinaccio Buttress/VF on another page IV Val di Fassa The heart of the App is the Rockfax crag and route information covering A very good route/VF, one of the best on the crag 2 or mountain. page Abseil individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'areas' which correspond roughly A brilliant route/VF, one of the best in the line to printed guidebooks. The main data is sold by subscription so that 3 Dolomites. di Fassa Val you can purchase access to all the Rockfax guidebook information for a Marmolada Technical climbing requiring good balance and Equipped period of time, from one month to yearly. Once you are subscribed, you t technique, or complex and tricky moves. belay will have access to every digital Rockfax guidebook for the period of your Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs IV+ Marmolada subscription. You can download the main data and store it on your device, p or long moves off small holds. Via ferratas so you don't need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or Pordoi the topos and maps. There is also plenty of free data available without s steep rock giving pumpy climbing. subscription, enabling you to get a really good impression of what the App is like without Fingery climbing with significant small holds on Variation Pordoi shelling out any money. f the hard sections. pitch Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary (see route

Sella description) h run-outs. 50m

The Rockfax App itself is a Sella free download and incredibly A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one Approximate Lower-off r or more of the moves. vertical

Val Gardena useful in its own right. It height <30 Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward 32m V+ contains a detailed crag map k thrutchy moves. linked to the UKClimbing

A trad route which needs a full rack of gear, or a Gardena Val crags database (currently with n sport route on which a small rack is required. 25m Approximate basic information and route vertical Fanis Crag Symbols height >30 lists for around 20,000 crags worldwide). The map also Angle of the approach walk to the crag or VF Fanis with approximate time. Pitch grades Valparola North displays all the 4,000+ listings S20 mins on long from the UKClimbing Directory Approximate time that the crag or VF is in the 1 routes VI+ of climbing walls, outdoor E direct sun (when it is shining). 2 1-3 hrs 3 Approximate minimum and maximum climbing North Valparola shops, climbing clubs, outdoor- Sport route time that should be allowed. Approach Falzarego specific accommodation � (yellow dash) and instructors and guides, 3-5 hrs Approximate minimum and maximum time for 4 Trad route

amongst others. � completing a VF. (white dash) Falzarego

Sport routes on this crag. Tofana To find the App, search for 'Rockfax App' in Google or on the appropriate store. L Rock/snow Summit line

Trad routes with mixed gear (pegs, wires and Tofana UKC Logbooks M cams) on this crag. Via ferrata

Cinque Torri An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com A crag page A via ferrata. logbooks system. This database lists more than 479,000 routes and nearly 20,000 crags; so V page far, more than 39,800 users have recorded 6.6 million ascents! To set up your own logbook Footpath

The buttress suffers from seepage. It may well be Torri Cinque all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up @ wet and unclimbable in winter and early spring. Path number Cortina you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it The buttress can offer shelter from cold winds Rifugio in and who you did it with. Each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your and it may be a good sun-trap in colder weather. Track

* Cortina Lift vote to the grade/star system which is used by guidebook writers from many publishers to get Town/village Deserted - Currently under-used and usually Pass opinions on grades and quality of routes. The logbook can be private, public or restricted to quiet. Less good routes or a remote area. Misurina Campsite your own climbing partners only. Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags,

or good areas with awkward approaches. GPS Coordinates Misurina The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that of parking Main Roads

Busy - Places you will seldom be alone. map for scan

Tre Cime you can record your activity while at the crag and look at photos, comments and votes on Good routes and easy access. the routes. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC QR code for Crowded - The most popular sections of the smartphone Scale Cime Tre logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions. most popular crags which are always busy. navigation 18 The Dolomites Other Guidebooks and Maps Other Guidebooks and Maps The Dolomites 19

Catinaccio As far as we are aware, this is the first guidebook to cover a Maps large chunk of the Dolomites with trad, sport and via ferrata. The maps in this book have plenty of There are many other guides that cover more of the crags

detail and should be sufficient for many of Catinaccio and via ferrata in the area - a selection is listed below. the crag approaches and full via ferrata Val di Fassa trips. However, due to the Alpine nature Other Guidebooks available in 2014 of the Dolomites, it is advisable to take a

1:25.000 map, particularly on routes with di Fassa Val Western Dolomites 1 and 2 (2011) by Emiliano Zorzi a complex approach or for navigating long Marmolada A general trad guide, translated into English covering the via ferrata circuits. These maps have more central Dolomites and Pala, in two volumes. detail than included in this book and could

be vital, especially if you get off the beaten Marmolada Dolomiten (2014) by Ralf Gantzhorn and Christoph Willumeit track. Pordoi A German guidebook covering 50 of the best trad routes in the There are several companies that produce Dolomites, illustrated with some superb photography.

maps for the area, however the Tabacco Pordoi maps are generally the easiest to get Ferrate a Cortina (2011) by Francesco Cappellari A via ferrata guide, translated into English covering Cortina hold of. Kompass also do a good range, Sella d'Ampezzo and immediate surrounding area. covering the majority of the Dolomites at 1:50.000 and 1:25.000. The required Sella Klettern in Cortina D'Ampezzo (2010) Tabacco map number for any given area is Val Gardena by Mauro Bernardi provided on the Rockfax overview maps at General guide in German and Italian covering Cortina the introduction to each major area.

d'Ampezzo and surrounding area. Gardena Val

Fanis Arrampicare in Val Gardena (2009) by Mauro Bernardi General guide in German and Italian covering the Val Gardena Fanis and surrounding area. Valparola North Classic Dolomites Climbs (2008) by Anette Köhler and Norbert Memmel A guidebook covering 102 selected trad climbs in the Dolomites. Translated into English. North Valparola Falzarego Dolomites West and East (2005) by Ron James

General guide in English covering selected trad climbs in the Falzarego West and East Dolomites. Tofana Via Ferrata in the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 (2009) Tofana by John Smith and Graham Fletcher A dedicated via ferrata guide, written in English covering the Cinque Torri North, Central and Eastern Dolomites.

Marmolada South Face (2008) by Maurizio Giordani Torri Cinque An in-depth guide to the Marmolada South Face, translated

Cortina into English.

Tre Cime (2009) by Erik Švab and Giovanni Renzi Cortina An in-depth guide to the Tre Cime, translated into English. Misurina It is not the policy of Rockfax to replace local guidebooks, but rather to introduce climbers to the new areas. Our Misurina books are written for climbers who may be unaware of the Tre Cime wealth of climbing in an area and who are unable to acquire information via their own local sources.

Steve Ahern filling in the summit book on the top of Cima Piccola after Cime Tre climbing Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) (VI+) - page 462. Photo: Dan Arkle 20 The Dolomites Acknowledgements Photographers The Dolomites 21

This guidebook's creation was only made possible by Catinaccio While the Dolomites are famous for providingAlberto De Giuli Kelly Diggle We are grateful the following companies albertodegiuli.com dolomitii.wordpress.com the enormous support, help and encouragement of a some of the longest and most accessible climbing who have supported this guidebook. great many people. Firstly my thanks to all those that in Europe, for me personally it's the surroundingAlessandro Petri Mark Houston

Flickr.com/photos/khuzul cosleyhouston.com Catinaccio came before us: without the first ascentionists, via ferrata scenery that really sets them apart. Over the equippers and sport crag protagonists, there would have Awesome Walls - Page 2 Alessio Feci Michael Maili Val di Fassa following pages I've tried to convey this through awesomewalls.co.uk Flickr.com/photos/khuzul mmarts.at been precious little to write about. The consistently well a number of photos, sometaken by myself and maintained bolted routes and via ferrata are testament to Andreas Bengtsson Mike Meysner others kindly provided by some exceptionalMountainGuide.se 500px.com/Mike421 BMC Insurance - Inside back cover di Fassa Val the hard work of the local climbing populace, CAI and the photographers. For those who would like to see guides working within the area. This includes the many thebmc.co.uk/insurance Calum Muskett Nadir Khan Marmolada more of their work I've assembled themuskettmountaineering.co.uk following nadirkhanphotography.co.uk people who have worked hard to document, catalogue and list. Casa Alfredino - Page 37 Claudia Ziegler Nicolas Zambetti collate all the route info, providing a wealth of information Claudiaziegler.com nicolaszambetti.ch

through numerous guidebooks, rifugio guest books and casa-alfredino.co.uk Marmolada Dan Arkle Nicolò Miana web resources. DanArkle.com NicoloMiana.com

Pordoi Throughout the time spent working on the book Collett’s Climbing Technology - Page 55 and 61 Dan Patitucci Paula Hrešková Mountain Holidays offered a host of resources, not least climbingtechnology.com PatitucciPhoto.com Travelphotogallery.net Pordoi providing a much needed shower in between climbing Daniel Rushforth Radu Diaconescu stints in the van. My thanks to the Collett’s team back Collets - Page 43 Danielrushforthphotography.co.uk Diaconescuradu.com colletts.co.uk Sella in the UK and to all the staff in the Dolomites for their Daniel Wildey Ralf Gantzhorn danielwildeyphotography.com Ralf-gantzhorn.de

support, not least to Patrick Deacon who endured several Sella hours of whilst I snapped away until I finally got Crux - Page 41 Enrico Grotto Richard Felderer the cover photo I was after. crux.uk.com Enricogrotto.weebly.com rikyfelderer.wordpress.com Val Gardena Whilst working on the book the support from the English Frédéric Dorn Roberto Bellini FotoRobertoBellini.it and international climbing communities was staggering. Dolomite - Inside front cover Antecime.blogspot.co.uk dolomite.it Roberto Sysa Moiola Giuseppe Ghedina Gardena Val Thanks to all those who chipped in to share opinions, sysaworld.com climbing knowledge and provide feedback. Thanks to GiuseppeGhedina.com - Outside back cover Jan Laco Robin Van den Hende

Fanis John Scanlon and Ian Parsons for assisting with the Chatatrnovec.sk TheSevereClimber.com history of the area, David Charlton for checking the flora lasportiva.com Rossalio Patuelli Fanis text and Calum Muskett and Dave MacLeod for assisting web.tiscali.it/rossalio

Valparola North with route descriptions. The response to photo requests Mountain Guides Italy - Back cover flap was particularly impressive, breathing life and colour into mountainguidesitaly.com the guide. Thanks to all those who sent me photos; I’ve endeavoured to squeeze in as many as possible! Although

James and Lynne North Valparola too many to list here, the individual photographers are

Falzarego credited in the photo captions and I’ve assembled a list (see opposite) of websites for anyone wishing to look them

up. Falzarego My thanks to all of the Rockfax and UKC team who have

Tofana been involved; Alan James for his tireless editing, Stephen Horne for all the technical support, Sherri Davy and Rob Greenwood for selling the advertising and Jaimella Tofana Espley and Chris Craggs for proofreading and turning my Cinque Torri ramblings into cohesive text. As ever my family provided excellent support, guidance and encouragement throughout the project. Cinque Torri Cinque Finally my thanks to Lynne, who accompanied me on

Cortina countless routes, whose linguistic skills proved invaluable, who endured several years of living in a van, assisted with

all aspects of writing the book, encouraged me to keep Cortina going when I thought the project was too big and, finally,

Misurina who rescued me from an embarrassing incident on the east face of Muro Occidentale del Pisciadù, involving a

thunderstorm and a conspicuously absent rope. Despite not Misurina wishing to appear as a co-author for the book, it is as much

Tre Cime hers as it is mine and I couldn’t have done it without her.

James Rushforth, July 2014 Tre Cime flower meadows with Monte Paterno, Cima Piccola and Cime Tre the north faces of Cima Grande and Ovest. Photo: Alessandro Petri.

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 23

July 2010 June 2007

January 2015 Deep Water October 2016 Chamonix Northern Limestone West Country Climbs West

May 2014 May May 2014 May April 2009 April

Western Grit Western rockfax.com Peak Peak Dorset Bouldering February 2017 : Côte d’Azur : Côte France Rockfax produce print and app and app print produce Rockfax guides to areas all over Europe all over areas guides to Rockfax Publications

May 2012 May Dorset April 2020 April

February 2012 February 2008 New edition New Peak Limestone Peak Northern England December 2009 France : Haute Provence : Haute France

April 2015 April Eastern Grit Eastern September 2017 September

November 2011 November Southern Sandstone Rjukan February 2016 France : Lang.Roussillon France

November 2019 November

Lake DistrictLake Climbs December 2012 May 2017 May 2018 May France : Ariege France Kalymnos Lofoten Climbs Lofoten

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App has extra content App App version available version App Print version available version Print App maps geo-located App October 2017 Madrid Area

Norway

Italy Catalunya February 2016 September 2018 September North Wales NorthSlate Wales England France

January 2016 December 2015 : Mallorca Clwyd Limestone Wales Spain

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31 titles in print

El Chorro El February 2016 December 2018 November 2016 November November 2013 November

19 less than 6 years old less than 6 years 19 North Wales Winter North Wales North Wales NorthClimbs Wales South Wales Sport Climbs Wales South 22 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 25 Logistics

The Dolomites The Venice. Photo: Daniel Rushforth Venice. 24 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 26 The Dolomites Logistics Emergencies and Rescue Emergencies and Rescue The Dolomites Logistics 27

Catinaccio Emergency Services In the event of a mountain incident requiring the assistance of the emergency services: Catinaccio Dial 118 Val di Fassa Be sure to have the details of the incident and a good description of your location.

Mobile phone coverage is generally very good in the Dolomites (particularly on top of the di Fassa Val

Marmolada Sella!) although there are occasional black spots in the more remote areas.

Travel Insurance Marmolada It is strongly recommended that personal travel insurance is taken out to cover rescue, Pordoi medical and repatriation in the event of an accident.

For minor injuries and illnesses, most of the towns and villages in the Dolomites have a Pordoi small health centre which can deal with minor injuries. Some of these have x-ray facilities and will otherwise be able to advise which hospital to go to. These can be the state- Sella governed red cross or the regional white/green cross variants. Sella There are numerous pharmacies (Farmacia/Apotheke) that can process prescriptions, but

Val Gardena most prescribed medicines must be paid for. Most of the health centres accept the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) for emergency treatment and usually just take a copy of it, although some of the private clinics will charge. The same goes for hospital treatment - this must sometimes be paid for and Gardena Val claimed back through your insurance policy. At the current time, it is unclear what the EHIC Fanis situation will be after Brexit. Fanis

Valparola North Rescue Procedure If you are involved in an incident then give the rescue services as many details as you can. Try to let them know your precise location, grid reference, crag name and route name. It may take

an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any first aid you can administer North Valparola is critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the pilot by standing with Falzarego your arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and he looks like he is coming in to hover, move to a safe distance away since the helicopter will either come into land or send Falzarego a winchman down. The downdraft is considerable so collect all the loose equipment together and get someone to sit on them to stop them being blown away. Do not approach the helicopter Tofana unless directed to do so by the aircrew since the rotating blades are extremely dangerous. Tofana Smartphone Apps Cinque Torri If you have a smartphone then download the Echo112 app from the iOS or Android app store. This useful app has an SOS button that will call the correct

emergency service no matter which country you are in and send your location Torri Cinque using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can Cortina calculate your OS grid reference from your phone's GPS system - search for

Grid Reference to find one of these in the appropriate app store. Echo112 app Cortina Misurina Misurina Tre Cime Tre Cime Tre Emergency services conducting a rescue on Cima Piccola at the Tre Cime.

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 29

Croatia Slovenia Austria p.448 Tre Cime Tre Venice About 5km About Innsbruck Misurina The Dolomites The SS48 p.430 Misurina Area Misurina Milan

Nice

Switzerland France From SS49 SS51 The Dolomites Logistics Dolomites The SS51 Cortina d'Ampezzo

p.412 Cortina and Ampezzo Basin Ampezzo Cortina and - Via ferrata - - Trad climbing crag climbing Trad - - Sport crag climbing sport - Mixed and trad SP638 p.356 SS48 Tofana Group Tofana Dolomites? the are Where p.372 Cinque Torri Cinque p.290 SS48 Fanis Group Fanis p.328 Falzarego Pass p.300 Valparola North Valparola This guidebook covers the Dolomites in the Trentino-Alto Adige, , and Trento Belluno and Bolzano, Adige, Trentino-Alto in the the Dolomites This guidebook covers The surprisingly good network means that and passes in the Dolomites of roads provinces. base such as central A bases. of the suggested any can be accessed from area the entire in the stay to it is not unfeasible but access climbs in all directions, it easier to makes Corvara climbing in Cortina in the east. d'Ampezzo spend a day yet in the west Gardena Val - 70 mins Misurina to Corvara - 60 mins Vigo de Fassa to Corvara Cortina - 90 mins Canezai to or Selva 2 hours over - Just Misurina to Vigo de Fassa Pieve Malga Ciapela San Cassiano Livinallongo SS641 SS244 SS244 Corvara La Villa Badia Arabba From SS49 p.234 SS48 p.112 Fedaia Pass/Marmolada Fedaia p.160 Pordoi Pass Penia SP243 Where are the Dolomites? the are Where Alba SP242 Selva p.170 Sella Pass Sella Val GardenaVal and Alta Badia Mazzin Pera SP238 Pozza di F. SP242 Santa Christina Ortisei Vigo di F. p.98 Val diVal Fassa Logistics Dolomites The From Innsbruck From p.68 Catinaccio/Rosengarten E45

From Bolzano are a separate group and owe their name to the rock type with their big sister. shared the rock their name to and owe group a separate are unlike the so-called 'Piccole Dolomiti' (Little Dolomites) located in the Vicenzan Pre-Alps, which Vicenzan Pre-Alps, in the located Dolomites) so-called 'Piccole Dolomiti' (Little the unlike However, more recently they have been included in the classification of the Dolomites as a whole, been included in the classification of the Dolomites have they recently more However, located in the west of the Dolomite range, meant that they were long considered a separate group. group. a separate long considered were meant that they range, of the Dolomite the west in located form part of the Southern . The geographical location of the Brenta Dolomites, Dolomites, of the Brenta location The geographical Alps. partform of the Southern Limestone Italian provinces of Belluno, Bolzano, Pordenone, Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige and Udine. They Udine. and Adige Trentino-Alto Trento, Pordenone, Bolzano, of Belluno, provinces Italian Where are the Dolomites? are Where the by shared collectively in northeast and are located range a mountain Italy are The Dolomites 28 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 31 The Dolomites Logistics Dolomites The Piaz Arete/Delagokante the famous Piaz Arete/Delagokante on perched Niclevicz Waldemar Eiki Higaki Delago. Photo: page 86 - on Torre (IV+) - Getting There There Getting Getting There Logistics Dolomites The with a precise GPS location and with a precise The parking spots are indicated indicated The parking spots are

44.39626 4.19651

GPS app to take you direct to the parking spots. to direct you take app to code and open in your chosen navigation chosen navigation code and open in your QR code. Just point your phone at the QR point your Just QR code. (warning triangle etc.) before you travel. you (warning triangle etc.) before licence requirements and local driving rules licence requirements end of the journey. Check the 'Green Card' Card' the 'Green Check end of the journey. a short stint on the Italian motorway at the at a short motorway stint on the Italian with the exception of the Brenner Pass and Pass of the Brenner with the exception Navigation Satellite 15 hours. This route avoids all toll roads roads all toll avoids This route hours. 15 and finally the Brenner Pass takes around around takes Pass the Brenner and finally Ghent, Brussels, Stuttgart, Ulm, Innsbruck Ulm, Innsbruck Ghent, Brussels, Stuttgart, from Calais or Dunkerque by way of Bruges, of Bruges, way by or Dunkerque Calais from luggage allowance! The suggested route route The suggested allowance! luggage insurance at the pick-up desk. at the pick-up insurance your into climbing rack your squeeze to how often sting you for expensive compulsory expensive for you sting often the issue of trying work out gets round to be aware that the cheapest prices offered prices that the cheapest offered be aware the UK Driving from the UK is another option and Driving from the maze of companies and offers, but but of companies and offers, the maze are useful resources for sorting for through useful resources are rentalcars.com carrentals.co.uk and of the above airports. The comparison sites The comparison sites airports. of the above a visit. a visit. at all three is available hire Car card. credit very convenient and they are both well worth both well are and they very convenient driving and a licence need your will You transport into the towns from the airport the from transport the towns is into Hire Car Innsbruck is particularly is Innsbruck as recommended, hours drive away. A stop-over in Venice or Venice in stop-over A away. drive hours Treviso airports, two and a half all roughly Treviso best accessed from Innsbruck, Venice or Venice Innsbruck, from best accessed Flying is guidebook in this covered The area 30 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 33 The Dolomites Logistics Dolomites The Getting Around Without a Car Without Getting Around some public are there the Dolomites get to Once you of the major towns. transport links connecting a few might hope than you These services less frequent are of a be used the day run enough to early and rarely between moving bases for sufficient are but climb, services all the bus are Unfortunately or sport crags. is no meaning there companies, separate by operated are they them all, but one transport which covers card priced. reasonably generally the A service that covers Dolomitici - Bus 472 Passi and wait The buses passes of the . four get to link up with each other thus making it possible Arabba. and between Canazei Corvara, Ortisei, Selva, Cortina and the Pass, Bus 30/31 links the Falzarego Cime. Tre (and on Arabba and 1/3/72 links Corvara Dolomitibus Belluno). to which Bus 460 runs between Brunico and Colfosco, Badia. Val the covers Pass. the Falzarego Badia to Val Bus 465 links the Gardena. Val the Bus 350 covers runThese services between and generally mid June worth checking although it is always mid September, on the information for offices with the local tourist service. current Public Transport Public a car is full potential their to the Dolomites enjoy To hoping to those for However, recommended. highly transport are using public there the Dolomites reach airports. all three from options limited from frequently run fairly Trains - Venice/Treviso From (one or an infrequent there and from Belluno, to Venice and Arabba service Dolomitibus two to connects a day) mid to mid June from in high season - usually Corvara September. Cortina and run services Express twice ATVO Both the Services Cortina to from link back then a day. Gardena, Val the For Badia. Val and the Pass Falzarego Bolzano and to Venice from a train take to it is possible Ortisei to or Selva. then a bus a shuttle take Gardena, Val - For Innsbruck From the airportfrom a train the Hauptbahnhof then catch to a regular here From Gardena/Waidbruck. Ponte to Val For Gardena. Val service the bus (350) links up to then change and catch Fortezza to train a Badia, take (460) then run buses Regular Brunico. to a local train Corvara. the summer season to throughout a Car Without Without a Car Without

Logistics Dolomites The Sunset over the five towers of Cinque Torri. Photo: Enrico Grotto Sunset over the five towers of Cinque Torri. 32 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 34 The Dolomites Logistics When to Go When to Go The Dolomites Logistics 35

Catinaccio Average Temp ˚C Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Cortina (maximum) 6 9 15 19 23 27 29 28 25 19 11 7 Catinaccio

Val di Fassa Cortina (minimum) -5 -2 2 5 9 13 15 15 11 6 0 -4

Hours sun/day Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec di Fassa Val

Marmolada Cortina (average) 3 4 5 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 3 3 Marmolada Rain days/month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Pordoi Cortina (average) 4 4 5 7 10 9 9 9 6 6 6 4 Pordoi

Crazy weather in the Alta Badia with Sas dla Crusc just visible on . Sella Sella

Looking down the Marmolada South Face in full winter conditions. Val Gardena

When to Go Though it is possible to complete climbs during the winter months (some of the via ferrata make Gardena Val for excellent ski tours), generally speaking the season runs from June to the start of Fanis October. The guide below outlines typical conditions but as with all mountainous regions weather

can be unpredictable and snow can fall unexpectedly. Fanis Valparola North June - Many of the higher peaks and north faces will still hold snow, with most climbers seeking south-facing mountain routes or sport crags down in the valleys. High-level via ferrata are often out of condition until late in the month. The start of the flower season. Valparola North Valparola

Falzarego July - The start of peak season. Generally most routes are clear of snow. Arguably the 'prettiest' month with the flowers in full bloom and a small amount of snow capping the highest peaks. Falzarego August - Good weather albeit with a tendency for thunderstorms in the late afternoon. The end of

Tofana the main flower season is towards the end of the month. The Italian national holiday 'Ferragosto' takes place on the 15th August and the Dolomites are usually extremely busy over this week. Tofana Booking well in advance is essential as campsites and hotels will be packed, but on the plus

Cinque Torri side there are usually some excellent local festivals with live music, traditional dress and culinary specialities.

September - A generally excellent and quieter time for climbing. Be aware that some of the lifts Torri Cinque start closing from mid September onwards. Sporadic but light snowfall possible towards the end of Cortina the month. Cortina October - Most of the tourist infrastructure will have closed by this point. Climbing is still generally

Misurina good, though it can be cold on the north faces and the shorter days will make longer routes difficult. Snowfalls likely, though these often don't settle properly until November. Misurina Lifts Tre Cime Most of the lifts open around the third week of June and close in mid September, but it is worth contacting the local tourist offices for exact information if you are planning on using specific lifts during your trip. Cime Tre 36 The Dolomites Logistics Where to Stay Where to Stay The Dolomites Logistics 37

Catinaccio The Dolomites are well developed from Self-catering Accommodation a tourist's point of view and there are There are a number of mountain businesses

numerous places to stay to suit most that offer self-catering accommodation with Catinaccio budgets.

Val di Fassa the possibility of guiding on walks, via ferrata and other mountain activities. Camping casa-alfredino.co.uk - see advert below There are campsites in many of the colletts.co.uk - see advert on page 43 di Fassa Val

Marmolada main areas that cater for tents, caravans and campervans. These are usually

quite upmarket as campsites go, with Marmolada good facilities and spacious pitches.

Pordoi Consequently they are not always as cheap

as you might hope, and each person, tent Pordoi and car is charged individually so prices can add up. Expect to pay something in Sella the region of €8 - €10 per person, €10 per pitch and €4 for electric hook-up per day, Sella although these costs vary between low and Val Gardena high season. Campsites are indicated at the beginning of each of the main sections.

Wild camping rules differ from province to Gardena Val province so it is worth checking with the

Fanis local commune and tourist offices before

doing so. Fanis Campervans - Another option for Valparola North campervan drivers is the 'area attrezzata/ stellplatz', which are effectively car parks where campervans can pay to park legally for the night. There are not usually North Valparola Falzarego washroom facilities but there is often drinking water, a waste disposal tank and electricity. These can cost anything from Falzarego €8 to €25 for a night, depending on the Tofana facilities and the time of year. Tofana

Cinque Torri Hotels and B&Bs All of the main towns and villages in the Dolomites have a good range of hotels and 'garni' (bed and breakfasts) which go from Torri Cinque the very basic to the five star. They often Cortina boast 'wellness' facilities - usually a sauna

and steam room - and many offer half- Cortina board. Most are accustomed to walkers and

Misurina climbers and often have a boot room where you can dry out kit or leave muddy boots. Misurina Tre Cime

The group with Torre Wundt in the foreground Cime Tre and the Tre Cime in the background. Photo: Roberto Sysa Moiola 38 The Dolomites Logistics Rifugios Rifugios The Dolomites Logistics 39

The following is a list of the main rifugios in the Catinaccio Rifugios Val Gardena and Alta Badia Rifugios, literally meaning refuges, are more commonly mountain restaurants which offer the areas covered in this book. Although there is Stevia ...... +39 347 266 7691 often no official requirement to book, the rifugios Col Raiser ...... +39 0471 796302 possibility of an overnight stay. Some are more basic than others, and accommodation can be Catinaccio in the form of single or double rooms, the more traditional bunkroom or a combination of the can get very popular so it is advisable to ring Firenze +39 0471 796307 Val di Fassa two. Generally a full sleeping bag isn't required as there will be thick blankets and sheets, but a ahead. Some of the rifugios will speak English Franz Kostner ...... +39 333 875 9838 Jimmy ...... +39 0471 836776 sleeping bag liner is usually expected. and the tourist information offices can help if you are struggling. Pisciadù/F.Cavazza . . . . +39 0471 836292 You can stay 'mezza pensione' (half board) which will usually take the form of a set three course di Fassa Val meal and a continental breakfast; 'con prima colazione' (bed and breakfast) or simply 'solo Marmolada pernottamento' (just the stay itself). Prices can range anywhere between €18 and €80 a night, Catinaccio/Rosengarten Fanis depending on the rifugio and the board basis. Roda de Vael ...... +39 0462 764450 Santa Croce ...... +39 0471 839632 Lavarella +39 0474 501079 If you are planning an Alpine start, be sure to let the rifugio know because they will often be happy Paolina +39 0471 612008 Marmolada Pederu ...... +39 0474 501086 to leave out some bread and jam for you to enjoy at 4am! A. Fronza Coronelle +39 0471 612033 Fanes ...... +39 0474 501097 Pordoi Passo Santner +39 340 656 2228 Re Alberto I ...... +39 0462 763428 Scotoni ...... +39 0471 847330 Preuss ...... +39 368 788 4968 Pordoi Vajolet ...... +39 0462 763292 Valparola and Falzarego Passes Gardeccia ...... +39 0462 763152

Sella Lagazuoi +39 340 719 5306 Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz . . . +39 0462 760349

Valparola +39 0436 866556 Sella Passo Principe . . . . . +39 339 4327101 Dibona +39 0436 860294 Antermoia ...... +39 0462 602272 Giussani +39 0436 5629 Val Gardena Alpe di Tires +39 0471 727958 Pomedes +39 0436 862061 Micheluzzi ...... +39 0462 750050 Duca d'Aosta ...... +39 0436 2780

Ra Valles +39 0436 3461 Gardena Val Val di Fassa Col Druscie ...... +39 0436 862372

Fanis Buffaure ...... +39 0462 764101

Baita Cuz ...... +39 0462 760354 Cinque Torri Fanis Malga Crocifisso . . . . . +39 0462 764260 One of the bunkrooms in Rifugio Averau ...... +39 0436 4660 Valparola North Baita Ciampiè ...... +39 337 459398 Lavarella. Photo: Rifugio Lavarella Nuvolau ...... +39 0436 867938 Baita alle Cascate +39 330 841692 Scoiattoli +39 0436 867939 Passo San Nicolò +39 0462 601466 Cinque Torri ...... +39 0436 866853 Baita Monzoni +39 337 452935

Col Gallina +39 0436 2939 North Valparola Valaccia ...... +39 0462 764922 Fedare ...... +39 0437 720182 Falzarego Ciampac ...... +39 0462 600060 Baita Valeruz ...... +39 337 283 498

Cortina d'Ampezzo Falzarego Albergo Fiames . . . . . +39 0436 2366 Fedaia Pass/Marmolada Group Son Forca ...... +39 0436 861822 Tofana Pian dei Fiacconi . . . . . +39 0462 601412 Faloria ...... +39 0436 2737

Punta Penia ...... +39 0462 601117 A. Vandelli ...... +39 0435 39015 Tofana Passo Fedaia ...... +39 0437 722007

Cinque Torri O.Falier ...... +39 0437 722005 Contrin +39 0462 601101 Misurina Col de Varda +39 0435 39041

Fonda Savio +39 0435 39036 Torri Cinque Pordoi Pass Forcella Pordoi . . . . . +39 0462 767500 Cortina Capanna Piz di Fassa +39 0462 601723 Tre Cime Auronzo ...... +39 0435 39002 Boè +39 0471 847303 Cortina Padon ...... +39 0437 722002 Lavaredo +39 349 602 8675 Tre Cime/Locatelli +39 0474 972002 Misurina

Sella Pass Numbers beginning with 04 are landlines with an area Carlo Valentini +39 0462 601183 code. There can be between 4 and 6 numbers following Misurina Passo Sella ...... +39 0471 795136 the four-digit area code. Numbers beginning with 3 are

Tre Cime Sella Alm ...... +39 320 025 9925 mobile numbers. All numbers are given with Italian dialling Pian Schiavaneis . . . . . +39 0462 601338 code +39, after which it is not necessary to remove the '0' of the area code. Rifugio Lorenzi and the start of via ferrata Marino Bianchi Monti Pallidi +39 0462 601337 Cime Tre (VF2B) - page 424 - and Ivano Dibona (VF2B) - page 422. 40 The Dolomites Logistics Shops and Tourist Information

Catinaccio Opening Times Lifts Like much of Italy, most shops, supermarkets There is a 'Dolomiti Supersummer' card that and services close for an extended lunch accesses over 90 lifts over twelve Dolomite

Val di Fassa period, usually from 12pm or 1pm to 3pm. valleys. A day card will costs in the region of Sundays are still respected as the traditional €50, while 3 days will set you back around 'rest day', so most amenities close for €110. The slightly confusingly named 'Hiking the entire day. The exceptions are the Up' option is most applicable to climbers and

Marmolada restaurants and rifugios, which remain open works on a points system, costing between throughout the lunch period and during the €80 and €140 for a certain number of weekend. points. Each lift has a points value which is deducted from the card on each use, and the

Pordoi Supermarkets card is transferable so a party can buy one Most of the major villages have a modest pass and share the points during their trip. selection of supermarkets. Savings range from 20 - 35% on the cost Corvara - Sport Kostner Conad of individual tickets, but the remaining value Sella La Villa - De Spar cannot be reimbursed at the end of a trip so Arabba - Market Marilena, Anny Market if you are only intending on taking one or two Selva - De Spar lifts during the holiday it is usually more cost Val Gardena Cortina - De Spar, La Cooperativa effective to pay as you go. Canazei - De Spar For more see Pozza di Fassa - Coop, Alimentari DA Martin dolomitisupersummer.com In most villages there is also a local

Fanis butcher (macelleria), a bakery (panificio or Climbing Shops panetteria) and sometimes an independent Climbing, and in particular via ferrata, are greengrocer (fruttivendolo).

Valparola North very popular sports in the Dolomites and thus there are a number of excellent climbing Tourist Information shops in the area. The most comprehensive Each village has a tourist information office of these are: which provides excellent information on Canazei - Sport Amplatz Falzarego shops, services, accommodation and events Corvara - Sport Kostner in the area. They are also a good source of Cortina - Lacadelli K2 Sport up-to-date information on route conditions, lift La Villa - Sport Tony and road closures and the current weather Other options are Sport Posch in Colfosco, Tofana forecast. Intersport in Santa Cristina, Sport Samont in Corvara Tourist Office +39 0471 836176 Arabba, Lagazuoi Sport and Passion in San La Villa Tourist Office +39 0471 847037 Cassiano, Quota 1224 in Cortina, Sport De Cinque Torri Arabba Tourist Office +39 0436 79130 Grande in Sottoguda below the Marmolada Selva Tourist Office +39 0471 777900 and numerous other outdoor clothing shops Cortina Tourist Office +39 0436 869086 that sometimes stock a modest selection of Canazei Tourist Office +39 0462 609500 climbing shoes or equipment. Cortina For those travelling in from Venice or Treviso, just off the Treviso Sud motorway exit there is a large and excellent sport shop, Sportler,

Misurina which also has an indoor (and outdoor) . For those coming from the other direction, both Innsbruck and Brunico have Sportler branches. Tre Cime Craig and Michelle Young on Michelle Young Craig and - South Comici the classic - page 347 - on Arete (V-) Falzarego. Piccola di Torre Photo: Mark Houston cosleyhouston.com -

Guiding ServicesGuiding guidegardena.it -

guidecortina.com -

guidealpinevaldifassa.com -

guidealpinedolomiti.net (advert opposite) - colletts.co.uk (advert -

altabadiaguides.com -

guidetrecimedilavaredo.it Alta Badia) -

proguide.it -

(advert on page 37) on page casa-alfredino.co.uk (advert Logistics Dolomites The

Cosley and Houston Alpine Guides (International) and Houston Cosley Proguide (Corvara) Proguide Crystal (Selva) - crystalsummer.co.uk/holidays/italy/selva-val-gardena/ (Selva) Crystal Mountains - dolomitemountains.com Dolomite - holimites.com Holimites - simplydolomiti.com/en/summer-holidays/ Dolomiti (Arabba) Simply Casa Alfredino - levels of walking, climbing and via ferrata on offer in addition to accommodation and guiding. to in addition on offer climbing and via ferrata of walking, levels ( Mountain Holidays Collett's Alta Badia Guides (Corvara) with various packages full holiday companies which offer many are guides there In addition to can be found at the websites below: at the websites can be found Holidays Full All of the Guides' offices can arrange for English-speaking guides on request, and more information information and more guides on request, English-speaking for can arrange All of the Guides' offices Prices range from €90 - €350 per day, depending on the itinerary and the group number. depending on the itinerary and the group €90 - €350 per day, from range Prices options are available to individuals as a private booking (and naturally at a higher cost). at a higher cost). booking (and naturally individuals as a private to available options are The set programmes often have a minimum (and maximum) group number, although all of the although all number, group (and maximum) a minimum have often The set programmes programmes. glacier trekking, courses in rock climbing techniques, mountain biking, and children's and children's canyoning biking, mountain climbing techniques, in rock courses glacier trekking, Options include trad climbing, modern multi-pitch sport routes, a day at a sport crag, via ferrata, at a sport via ferrata, a day modern crag, sport climbing, multi-pitch Options include trad routes, requirements, or a set weekly programme of some of the most popular itineraries in the Dolomites. programme or a set weekly requirements, Most of the guiding offices offer either tailored itineraries to suit a party itineraries to either tailored or individual's specific offer Most of the guiding offices it alone, or indeed for those who simply wish to complete a route in the company of other people. of other people. in the company a route complete wish to those who simply or indeed for it alone, excellent way of seeing the mountains for those with insufficient experience to feel safe attempting attempting safe feel to experience those with insufficient for of seeing the mountains way excellent Guiding Services A guided itinerary can be an in the Dolomites. guides operating mountain qualified many are There Guide Alpine Val di Fassa (Val di Fassa) (Val di Fassa Val Alpine Guide Guide Alpine Dolomiti (Val di Fassa) (Val Alpine Dolomiti Guide Association of Mountain Guides (Val Gardena) of Mountain Guides (Val Association Guide Alpine Scuola di Alpinismo (Cortina) di Alpine Scuola Guide Guide Tre Cime (Misurina) Tre Guide 42 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 44 The Dolomites Logistics Road Biking Road Biking The Dolomites Logistics 45

Catinaccio Road Biking Badia Road biking has long been an popular activity in the Dolomites and

numerous prestigious races take place up the winding and tortuous La Villa Catinaccio Tre Croci passes. Apart from the Giro d'Italia, which usually passes through parts of S. Cristina SS244 Pass Misurina

Val di Fassa (2121m) the Dolomites and in particular often features a famous stage by the Tre Valparola (1805m) Selva Corvara Pass Cime, the Sella Ronda and the see thousands of (2168m)Falzarego SS48 Pass Cortina

cyclists taking to the passes. The roads are closed during the races making Sella Ronda di Fassa Val (2105m) d'Ampezzo travel between areas difficult unless you start very early, so it is worth (1875m) SS48

Marmolada Sella Pordoi Pass checking the race schedules before planning a climb in another valley. Pass (2239m) Livinallongo SP638 SS51 (2224m) (2236m) Arabba Canazei SS48

Pieve Marmolada Fedaia Pass SP238 (2057m) Selva di

Pordoi Cadore Pordoi Malga Rocco About 10km Ciapela Pietore Sella

The Sella Ronda Bike Day - 63km/2100m ascent Sella One of the most popular routes in the area, the Sella Ronda Bike Day is a non-competitive event which takes place in mid June. Starting in Santa Val Gardena Cristina, the roads are closed for the day and the route follows the four passes in an anti-clockwise direction, with a total length of 63km with a total of

approximately 2100m ascent. No registration is necessary. Gardena Val

Fanis The Maratona dles Dolomites - 138km/4230m ascent An immensely popular competitive but non-professional race, the full Maratona Fanis route is 138km long with a total ascent of 4230m, (although shorter routes run

Valparola North at 106km/3130m and 55km/1780m) and takes place in the first week of July. Registration is essential because there are usually over 30,000 applicants for just 9000 places and selection is via a lottery so there is no guarantee of a spot. Many tour operators offer specific packages for the race which must be booked well in advance but do guarantee entry to the competition. North Valparola

Falzarego Other suggested routes:

Falzarego Fodom Circular - 58km/1565m ascent

Tofana Badia > Corvara > Campolongo Pass > Arabba > Pieve > Falzarego Pass > > La Villa > Badia Tofana Fedaia Marmolada - 96km/3030m ascent Cinque Torri Corvara > Campolongo Pass > Arabba > Pieve > Rocca Pietore > Fedaia Pass > Canazei > Sella Pass > Gardena Pass > Corvara Cinque Torri Cinque Passo delle Erbe 102km/3353m ascent

Cortina Selva > Ortisei > San Pietro > Chiusa > Funes > Passo delle Erbe > Antermoia > San Martino in Badia > Pederoa > Badia > Corvara > Gardena Pass - Selva Cortina Misurina Misurina Tre Cime

Cyclists leaving Corvara and beginning the ascent of the Campolongo Pass in the Cime Tre non-professional and hugely popular Maratona dles Dolomites. Photo: Freddy Planinschek 46 The Dolomites Logistics Mountain Biking Mountain Biking The Dolomites Logistics 47

Catinaccio Mountain Biking Mountain biking has increased hugely in popularity and

considerable efforts are being made to promote the sport in Catinaccio

Val di Fassa the area. Many of the trails follow the winter ski , and some of the tours detailed below make full use of these. The Dolomiti Supersummer lift pass gives access to the lifts with bike transport, with prices ranging from around €50 for one di Fassa Val

Marmolada day and €100 - €150 for 3 - 5 days.

The Sella Ronda Hero - 84km/4300m ascent Marmolada The road-biking equivalent of the Maratona - a hard

Pordoi endurance test covering between 62-84km and 3300-4300m,

depending on your chosen route. It takes place in mid June, Pordoi usually a day or two before or after the Sella Ronda Bike Day, and early registration is essential as only 20% of the Sella places are allocated to non-Italian nationals. Naturally this route can be biked at any time, not just as part of the race. Sella

Val Gardena The Sella Ronda Downhill Taking advantage of the lift system, this route completes

the Sella Ronda yet reduces the total ascent to between Gardena Val 450-900m, depending on the direction. However officially the

Fanis route must be guided in order to access the Sella Ronda lifts.

Fanis Other suggested routes: Valparola North

Below Santa Croce - 18km, 800m ascent Easy but scenic route below the Fanes massif and the Sas dla Crusc face. Predominantly on gravel tracks. North Valparola Falzarego Sas dla Crusc - 56km, 1860m Cycle from Badia to Pederu then onto the Fanes massif, Falzarego then downhill into San Cassiano and back along the river to Tofana Badia. Gravel tracks and bike trails.

Tofana There are also downhill-specific trails at various 'bike resorts' Cinque Torri such as Belvedere Canazei and Buffaure Pozza di Fassa. These are open from mid June to mid September and cost

around €30 for a day pass (multi-day passes available), with Torri Cinque numerous downhill trails complete with jumps, side-slips and Cortina even a giant air bag. Cortina Misurina Misurina Tre Cime

Becki Vale mountain biking along the Padon Ridge with superb Cime Tre views of the Marmolada North Face. Photo: Richard Manterfield 48 The Dolomites Logistics Other Activities Other Activities The Dolomites Logistics 49

Catinaccio Walking one of the many trails in the Dolomites, with views of the Walking beautiful Lago di Lagacio and Fanis. Photo: Collett's Mountain Holidays The walking in the Dolomites is spectacular with well-

marked paths and idyllic mountain rifugios making it a Catinaccio good option for a break from climbing. Val di Fassa

Paragliding For a different perspective over the mountains, di Fassa Val

Marmolada paragliding is an interesting option and can be done from many of the villages in the Dolomites, especially Corvara and Campitello. Col Rodella is a particularly Marmolada popular spot for enthusiasts, and tandem flights are

Pordoi available for the uninitiated.

Horse Riding Pordoi Horse riding is another way of seeing the mountains,

Sella with treks and lessons available from Badia, Longiarù,

San Cassiano, Campitello and Santa Cristina. Sella

Val Gardena Wet Weather Options One of the most relaxing wet weather options is taking advantage of the many spa facilities in the boutique Val Gardena Val hotels. Many of these are open to non-residents and are

Fanis an indulgent way to rest aching muscles and generally get pampered. Fanis There are numerous cultural options with excellent

Valparola North museums such as the in Brunico, the South Tyrolean Museum of Archeology - home of Otzi the ice man - in Bolzano, and the two Ladin museums in San Martino in Badia Valparola North Valparola and San Cassiano. The three Regole di Cortina Falzarego museums - Paleontology, Ethnography and Modern Art - offer interesting insights into the history of the rocks themselves and the heritage of the people who Falzarego lived around them. Tofana Anyone with an interest in more recent history may be

interested in the First World War Museum at the Tre Tofana Sassi Fort on the Valparola Pass or at the Marmolada Cinque Torri mid station.

Indoor Climbing Torri Cinque Finally for those who can't bear to go a day without

Cortina training, there is a small selection of indoor climbing walls scattered around the Dolomites. Cortina Brunico +39 0474 055 005 Selva +39 0471 794133 Misurina San Cassiano +39 0471 849486 (at Hotel Störes) Campitello +39 347 9309289 Misurina Ortisei +39 0471 797275

Tre Cime Santa Cristina +39 0471 777800 Tre Cime Tre

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 51

- with view of Averau. Photo: Ladinia.it page 350 - with view of Averau. A karabiners perspective of Col dei Bos/degli Alpini (VF3B) - Via Ferrata Via The Dolomites The 50 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 52 The Dolomites Via Ferrata Introduction Introduction The Dolomites Via Ferrata 53

Catinaccio What is a Via Ferrata? Origins of the Name In its most basic form a via ferrata consists of a metal The term 'via ferrata' is used in most languages with the exception of German, which uses

(originally iron - now more commonly steel) wire that is 'Klettersteig' (climbing path). 'Via ferrata' originates from 'via attrezzata', which means 'fully Catinaccio connected to the surrounding rock at numerous intervals.

Val di Fassa equipped road/route'. Common English translations cite 'iron way', 'iron road' or 'iron path', The purpose of this wire is twofold: derived from 'ferro', meaning iron. In Italian the plural is 'via ferrate', whilst in English both 1) It provides a fixed form of which 'via ferrata' and 'via ferratas' are used interchangeably. climbers can physically attach themselves to. For the purposes of this guidebook 'via ferrata' will be used to describe both the plural and di Fassa Val

Marmolada 2) It provides an artificial aid for climbers who can use singular forms. the wire for assistance throughout the route. Though the metal wire is the fundamental feature of all Marmolada via ferrata, there are also numerous secondary elements Via Ferrata History While the construction of via ferrata is often attributed to the First World War there are

Pordoi employed as additional artificial aid. These can include (although are not limited to) stemples (large staples in the several routes that predate 1914. There is some debate as to which is the oldest via ferrata Pordoi rock), steps, ladders, bridges and walkways. in the Dolomites, though it is generally accepted to be either the Marmolada West Ridge or Delle Mèsules (Possnecker Path), with some reports of the former being constructed as

Sella early as 1903.

Nevertheless it was the arrival of the First World War to the Dolomite mountains (see page Sella 10) that provided the catalyst for construction of via ferrata en masse. Both the Italian

Val Gardena and Austro-Hungarian armies in the area found the wires invaluable for moving men and supplies through previously inaccessible areas. Via ferrata were constructed or extended to defend key positions and were often the site of vicious fighting. The legacy of this terrible conflict can still be witnessed on many of the routes, with the tunnels (Giovanni Lipella), Gardena Val trenches (Eterna Brigata Cadore), officer quarters (Ivano Dibona), lookout positions (Delle Fanis Scalette), field hospitals (Col dei Bos/Degli Alpini and Ettore Bovero) and even an original field gun (Via delle Trincee - La Mesola) still in evidence today. Fanis

Valparola North Following the war many of the via ferrata were re-equipped by CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) and used as a means of attracting tourists to the area. This was a slow process until the 1950s which saw an explosion in tourism to the area. This sudden influx of visitors rapidly

led to increased environmental concerns and led to the expansion being curtailed in favour North Valparola

Falzarego of just maintaining the pre-existing routes. More recently some new via ferrata have been constructed in the area. The first 'modern'

route was the controversial Sandro Pertini: built in Vallunga, an area covered under the EU's Falzarego 'Natura 2000' environmental protection policy, the route was hotly disputed as many felt

Tofana the route had been built purely to commercial ends with a disregard for the environmental impact. The route was closed temporarily, then officially sanctioned by the EU in 2008, and Tofana finally removed by court order in 2015. Ski Club 18 above Cortina was constructed in 2009

Cinque Torri to 'enrich the mountaineering tradition' of the area, and named after the Rome ski club of the same name, whilst Magnifici Quattro in the Van San Nicolò follows part of a First World War route and was named in honour of four mountain rescue members who were tragically killed in an avalanche whilst attempting a rescue in 2009. Meanwhile, two short routes on Torri Cinque

Cortina the two towers Ra Bujela and Ra Pegna above Rifugio Duca d'Aosta were opened in 2015.

Via Ferrata Today Cortina Today the Dolomites has the highest concentration of via ferrata in the world. This incredible Misurina network of historic and modern routes allows those with little or no technical climbing

expertise to experience some phenomenal and situations whilst reaching Misurina otherwise inaccessible peaks. Tre Cime

Climbers making their way up the initial Cime Tre ladder of Ivano Dibona (VF2B) - page 422. 4 to 6 hrs 75 min Via ferrata times S0 Grades, Gear and Etiquette Gear Etiquette and Grades, Try and leave one section of wire between one section of wire and leave Try with at the wire into clipped remain Always section until a safe wait overtaking are If you of in the event you below climbers Warn Via Ferrata Etiquette Ferrata Via 1) minimise the risk to and other climbers yourself in the case of a fall. of a chain reaction 2) least one lanyard. 3) do so. to 4) rockfall: English - 'Below' - 'Sassi' Italian - 'Achtung' German Via Ferrata Lanyards (above) - These (above) can Lanyards Via Ferrata of the sport most or bought from be hired come in many They shops in the Dolomites. although there and designs, makes different of via recently of recalls been a number have it is worth so doing some prior lanyards ferrata your It is important create not to research. or static using slings, lanyards via ferrata own huge because of the potentially that can be generated. factors fall Timing Via Ferrata with an is listed Each via ferrata time and an on route approach that the descent 'VF' time (note The times time is not included). generous a bit more this guidebook are in given the for in other guidebooks than those found said that, it is important start Having to area. to times compare your small and see how in the book. those found - A sit, or full body, harness body, sit, or full A - Harness preference. on personal depending on via a helmet Helmet - It is important wear to primarily because of the risk rockfall of ferrata, you. partiesfrom above Via Ferrata Equipment Ferrata Via Ferrata Via Dolomites The

Laurenzi Molignon. Laurenzi

require a glacier crossing. require exclusively for routes on the Marmolada that routes for exclusively a seriousness grade of 'D' has been added a seriousness grade as grading, A-C the Smith/Fletcher In addition to level. possibilities for retreat once committed, such once committed, retreat possibilities for 5+ in difficulty HVS, climb of about VI, a rock is reserved for remote via ferrata with limited with limited via ferrata remote for is reserved to equivalent be thought of as being roughly A grade 'C' A grade possibilities such as Cir Spitz V. can via ferrata The hardest and via ferrata. a route close to civilisation with good escape close to a route boulder problems Spot sportOrange routes, circumstances require. A grade 'A' is given to to 'A' is given A grade require. circumstances attempt to should be able then you climbs, to retreat or escape from the via ferrata if the via ferrata or escape from retreat to on trad Spot' level at the 'Orange operating support) of the via ferrata and the possibilitysupport) of the via ferrata are If you styles and types of climbing. distance to facilities that could offer aid and that could offer facilities to distance different across level equalise the difficulty This grade is based on the remoteness (the is based on the remoteness This grade Colour Codes Rockfax to an attempt colour codes are The Rockfax 'seriousness' of the route and runs from A-C. A-C. and runs from 'seriousness' of the route The second alphabetic grade represents the represents The second alphabetic grade even moderately overhanging in parts. in parts. overhanging moderately even included in this book. A grade 6 is steep or 6 is steep A grade included in this book. with wire protection - these haven't been - these haven't protection with wire A grade 1 via ferrata takes the form of a path the form takes 1 via ferrata A grade has led to the introduction of a grade 6). 6). of a grade the introduction has led to Quattro such as Magnifici via ferrata grade 1-5 but the construction of modern but high- 1-5 (the original Smith/Fletcher scale ran from (the original from ran Smith/Fletcher scale of the route in question, from a scale of 1-6 a scale of 1-6 in question, from of the route The number denotes the technical difficulty difficulty the technical denotes The number alphabetic grading classification. alphabetic grading This system uses a dual numeric and This system The Smith/Fletcher System The Smith/Fletcher Italian Dolomites' with a few subtle changes. changes. subtle with a few Dolomites' Italian Smith/Fletcher book, 'Via Ferratas of the book, 'Via Ferratas Smith/Fletcher This book will use the grading found in the found will use the grading This book system has yet to emerge. emerge. to has yet system for via ferrata and a European standard standard and a European ferrata via for Via Ferrata Grades Ferrata Via used systems grading numerous are There 54 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre Page 244 248 258 272 288 324 350 360 368 408 414 418 422 424 426 428 446 486 488 3-5 hours 1-2 hours 3-5 hours 2-3 hours 1-2 hours 1-2 hours 3-5 hours 5-8 hours 1-2 hours 1-2 hours 2-4 hours 4-6 hours 1-3 hours 1-3 hours 14-18 hours 1-2 hours 2-4 hours 1-2 hours Ascent Time Ascent � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 1 min 2 min 2 hours 60 min 10 min 15 min 90 min 30 min 60 min 10 min 20 min 75 min 2 hours 2 hours 90 min 40 min 50 min 100 min Closed Time Approach Approach S a S S S S S S S S D D A A D S D F F VF6 5C 5B 5B VF5 4C VF4 3B 3B 3B 3B 3B 3C 3B 3B VF3 2B 2A 2A 2B 2B 2B VF2 Tick z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z VF Destination Planner Destination VF

Sass Rigais Pertini Sandro Piz da Cir V da Cir Piz Brigata Tridentina Brigata Piz da Lech Piz Tomaselli Col dei Bos/degli Alpini Col Giovanni Lipella Giovanni Punta Anna and Anna Punta Lamon/Formenton Averau Ettore Bovero Ettore Michielli Strobel Ivano DibonaIvano Marino Bianchi Ski 18 Club Sorapiss Circuit Sorapiss Merlone del Cadin - Cima Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler Sentiero Delle Scalette

Torre

Val Gardena and Alta Badia Alta and Gardena Val Falzarego Pass Falzarego Cortina and Ampezzo Basin Ampezzo and Cortina Tre Cime Tre Misurina Cinque 94 96 72 90 Page 162 164 207 209 100 102 104 110 122 124 3-5 hours 2-3 hours 3-5 hours 1 hour 1-3 hours 3-5 hours 2-4 hours 2-4 hours 1-2 hours 1-2 hours 1-2 hours 3-5 hours 2-5 hours 1-2 hours Ascent Time Ascent � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 20 min 20 min 1.5 hours 2.5 hours 3 hours 75 min 30 min 20 min 90 min 60 min 75 min 60 min 40 min 2 hours Time Approach Approach S S A D F F S S D S F S S S 6B VF6 5C VF5 4C 4C 4D 4B 4C 4C VF4 3A 3C VF3 2C 2B 2B 2B VF2 Tick z z z z z z z z z z z z z z

VF Destination Planner Destination VF

Col Rodella Col Delle Mèsules/Possnecker Cesare Piazzetta - Piz Boe - Piz Piazzetta Cesare Via delle Trincee/La Mesola Trincee/La delle Via Eterna Brigata Cadore Brigata Eterna Marmolada West MarmoladaRidge West Dei Finanzieri/Colac Col Ombert/KaiserjegerCol Magnifici Quattro Franco Gadotti Franco Laurenzi - Molignon Laurenzi Sentiero Massimiliano Sentiero Catinaccio d'Antermoia Catinaccio Masare and Roda de Vael and Roda de Masare

Sella Pass Sella Pordoi Pass Pordoi Marmolada Val di Fassa di Val Catinaccio/Rosengarten 56 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 59

Light and dark on Cima Piccola as Jesse Mattner leads Muro Giallo/ (7a+) - page 461 - Photo: Richard Felderer Wall) Gelbe Mauer (Yellow Climbing The Dolomites The 58 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime 60 The Dolomites Climbing Gear

On the majority of the trad routes in this guide there Catinaccio Ropes is usually a variety of fixed gear of varying quality, Trad - A pair of double ropes (either 50m or 60m) is most notably on the crux pitches which often required for most of the routes in this book. This is contain a lot of pegs. However, these are rarely because of the frequent need to make large abseils found in sufficient number to protect the entire climb Val di Fassa and to reduce rope drag. and some of the climbs can be very run out. Thus Sport routes - A single rope of at least 60m is in addition to your rock shoes, helmet, harness recommended for single pitch sport climbing in the and chalk bag you will need an extensive (and Dolomites. A 70m rope is useful for Tridentina crag expensive!) range of other gear. Marmolada and Sass Dlacia, whilst an 80m rope is required for many of the (hard) routes at Eiszeit. For much Runners of the multi-pitch sport a pair of 60m doubles The length of many of the routes means a fairly is recommended for the added versatility when light rack is essential if aiming to move quickly. . Pordoi A typical multi-pitch rack will be based around a set of wires with a few duplicates in the smaller Shoes sizes, and three to four medium-sized cams. Many Though choosing climbing footwear may seem people find a set of tri-cams particularly useful for relatively simple, the hot weather and length of the Sella placing in the pockets found in dolomite rock. For routes means that a comfortable pair of rock shoes those attempting the harder climbs a set of micro is essential. Velcro fastenings are useful so the nuts and cams are useful, whilst parties attempting shoes can easily be slipped off at stances, although Val Gardena some of the extreme routes will benefit from taking make sure you don't lose them on hanging a few skyhooks. belays! It is also worth paying some thought to your approach shoes. The steep descents, often Slings on scree, are far more comfortable in a pair of In addition to this metalware, you will also need a lightweight approach shoes than tight climbing Fanis good number of slings for the numerous threads shoes. Clip them to the back of your harness or and for building fast and efficient belays. Some tat pop them in your bag; you will be glad you did. can also be useful for equalising abseil anchors Valparola North (don't be afraid to take a knife to some of the Bivvy Gear stations and clear out old tat). Some of the routes covered in this book, A set of prusiks is mandatory for the many particularly on the South Face of the Marmolada, traverses and abseil descents. A belay plate that are so long that it is normal to make two-day

Falzarego can operate in 'guide mode' is advisable to assist ascents. If you are planning to bivvy on the face with moving quickly. Finally a good number of you will need other gear such as extra warm extenders or '' of varying lengths is clothing or a sleeping bag, extra food and plenty advised to help keep rope drag to a minimum. of water. It should be noted though that climbs in The sport climbs need between 12 and 18

Tofana the Dolomites generally benefit from a fast and quickdraws depending on their length. light approach, so avoiding a bivvy where possible is to be recommended. Remember, if you take Pegs/Pitons everything you may need, it will slow you down so Cinque Torri From a British and increasingly modern climbing much that you will probably end up using it. perspective the placing of pegs on summer Alpine rock routes should be avoided if possible. On new Other Gear routes, or climbs of extreme difficulty, it may be The scale of the routes found in the Dolomites

Cortina necessary, but for the majority of routes in this book means that most parties choose to climb with a they are not required. rucksack. It is generally better for both the leader It could be argued that a set of pegs is a good and second to climb with a small sack, rather than idea as a safety precaution for retreat from the less loading up the second with a heavy bag (which Misurina well-travelled routes on the Marmolada South Face quickly gets tiring). Some food and water as well as and other faces of a similar scale; ultimately this is a lightweight windproof/waterproof layer is advised. up to individual parties to decide. A headtorch for each climber should be included for all climbs of moderate length and longer - Tre Cime attempting to abseil in the dark is not fun! A reliable mobile phone with a good battery for emergencies is recommended. 62 The Dolomites Climbing Grades Route Finding and Timing The Dolomites Climbing 63

Catinaccio The rock climbs in this book are graded A party weaving between the spectacular roofs on Route Finding using two different systems depending on Labirinto Giallo (6c) - page 187 - at Piz Ciavazes. Route finding in the Dolomites is notoriously whether they are a trad or a sport route difficult, primarily because routes often don't Catinaccio (see page 52 for via ferrata grades). follow the main line of weakness as they do Val di Fassa on other rock types such as granite. To further Trad Grade confuse things, there are sometimes many UIAA is the standard grading system used possible variants, even on the classic climbs. di Fassa Val throughout the Italian Dolomites and is Be wary of blindly following a line of pegs Marmolada used in this guide for 'trad routes' - these as this may well be a harder variant, project are routes where the majority of the route, or indeed a failed attempt at a new route. protection is hand-placed and/or contains

Furthermore the scale of the climbs gives you Marmolada fluctuating levels of fixed protection (pegs more opportunities to go wrong, especially on the or bolts). easier sections where the line is less crucial. Pordoi For routes of extreme difficulty (generally It is worth spending some time on the valley floor, VIII and above) a second sport grade has committing the route line to memory and mentally Pordoi also been provided as a useful point of marking key features; an obvious-looking line reference for climbers operating at that seen from the ground is nearly always less Sella level. apparent once on the route. The table to the right gives an Sella 6 to 8 hrs approximate grade translation. It should Route Timing Val Gardena be noted that, unlike the British system, Each topo page has an the UIAA grading system only takes S92 hrs 'approach time' and a 'climb into account the technical difficulty of Route times 4 to 6 hrs time' listed in the symbols Gardena Val the route and not the objective danger. (right). These are general times Climbs that are particularly run-out

Fanis for routes on that particular 75 min have been detailed where possible in S0 page. The times given in this Via ferrata times the route description and are denoted Fanis guidebook are a bit more with the fluttery heart symbol. This Valparola North generous than those found in other guidebooks his particularly the case on the for the area. Having said that, it is important to Marmolada South Face, The North Face start small and see how your climbing times of the 2nd Sella Tower and the Messner compare to those found in the book.

Slabs. North Valparola The shorter of the two climbing times given

Falzarego assumes the party will be moving together on the Sport Grade easier sections, that their multi-pitch ropework

Sport grades are used for single and is efficient and that there are no route finding Falzarego multi-pitch sport climbing. These routes complications. It goes without saying that this will

Tofana rely for the most part on fixed bolts for not always be the case and thus it is important protection. On some of the harder routes to allow an adequate amount of time to complete easier pitches may not be fully bolted and the route. Tofana a small rack of gear might be required to It is also important to remember that the times Cinque Torri supplement the spaced fixed protection. Colour Coding provided don't include the descents, which can This is denoted in the route description with The routes are given a colour-coded dot be complex and often involve multiple abseils. nthe '' symbol. corresponding to a grade band. The colour Indeed, it is not uncommon for the descent to Cinque Torri Cinque represents a level that a climber should be happy take nearly as long as the climb. at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder Cortina Aid Grades Finally, in summer and August in particular, than the equivalent coloured trad routes because A few routes have an 'Aid Grade' given - A0, A1, thunderstorms are common in the late afternoon/ the climber doesn't need to worry about the Cortina A2. This usually indicates routes where a single evening, thus an early start is recommended to protection. point of aid can be used to bypass a short difficult make the best of the weather. If you're planning

Misurina on using a lift for your descent it is worth section and bring the whole route down to a more 1 Up to IV - Up to 4+ manageable level. The extra grade given with the checking the time of the final lift down (this often

changes through the season). Misurina aid grades denotes the maximum difficulty level 2 IV to VI - 5 to 6a+ required in addition to the aid point. Some routes Tre Cime have a third grade given which is for the route 3 VI+ to VII - 6b to 7a when climbed totally free. Tre Cime Tre 4 VII+ or 7a+ and above

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 74 76 78 84 176 210 238 250 260 268 276 278 282 106 118 120 134 166 Page 172 194 route that takes the prominent line route that takes Summary This huge face is home to the Fedele, arguably one of the best IV+ in the Dolomites. Just be sure to wait for a dry period before your attempt. good reason. There are One of the most popular faces in the Dolomites and with of everyexcellent moderate length trad and multi-pitch sport routes grade. The sunny face comes into condition early into the season. offer a huge array of multi-pitch trad and some sport climbing The three Sella Towers comes into of varying lengths and grades, in a superb environment. The 1st Tower condition the earliest, but is also the busiest. climbing in the Dolomites, The 'City of Rocks' is one of the gems of single pitch sport scattered boulders. Despite offering a huge array of routes on the many faces of the find solitude. being popular there is so much to go at here it is easy to peaks has some great Located above the beautiful Stevia plateau, this group of good mountaineering long climbs and, despite having modest grades, often require are complex. experience as route finding is difficult and many of the descents Gardena's most famous sport crag, featuring a good range of grades Arguably the Val after heavy rainfall. on excellent rock. The crag suffers from seepage immediately the Dolomites. They are A superb pair of sport crags that are amongst the best in at least 6b to fully both fairly difficult however and you will need to be climbing crag during light rain. appreciate them. It is possible to climb at Tridentina best multi-pitch sport Often overlooked, this face and tower provide some of the north-facing aspect it can be climbing in the region. Because of the high altitude and a hot day. one of the coldest spots in the area but it is brilliant for and modestly graded multi- The aptly named 'Dark Side of the Moon' has some good pitch sport routes. Just be sure to wait for a dry period before attempting them. The sunny south face of Sas Ciampac features some beautifully-situated classic trad routes as well as a newly bolted 17 pitch sport route. The relatively long approach ensures you will nearly always find solitude here. Conveniently accessed using the Boè gondola out of Corvara, this horseshoe corrie features a number of classic chimney routes and a few harder face climbs. Because of the altitude the area can hold snow late into the season. This face features two excellent modern bolted routes, directly beneath Rifugio beneath Rifugio directly bolted routes, excellent modern features two This face the season. and late into climbable early of sun and is It receives lots Preuss. Steger the Catinaccio Group. The The big wall of a classic and not to be underestimated. centre of the east face is of cracks up the a that features Preuss and Vajolet popular tower adjacent to Rifugios A superb and the easy of the routes, coupled with lines. The moderate length number of classic season. it can get busy during peak access means short and with a number of superb famous crags in the Dolomites One of the most an amenable grade. Don't expect peace and quiet - in classic trad climbs, often at overrun making an early start essential. peak season the towers are is ideal as an evening venue, or for those after a This superb little sport crag experience to the The conglomerate rock provides a different climbing relaxing day. surrounding area. An ideal introductory pitch sport routes. venue featuring a number of amenable single Situated above the Fedaia reservoir not this quiet crag is excellent providing you're routes at an easier grade. looking for anything other than this surreal the Marmolada, directly beneath the glacier, Located on the north side of for something a bit off the beaten track. Technical crag is ideal for those looking a little cleaning. climbing on rock that still needs recommended as one of the best big walls in The 'Silver Face' can be confidently 38 pitches in length everythingthe world. With routes up to face is a major on this and good conditions are required. undertaking and careful preparation Sass Pordoi is exceptionally Despite the fairly long approach, the sunny south face of Whilst Via Maria/Mariakante popular and comes into condition early into the season. is the classic, all of the routes on this face are excellent. * * Sheltered Sun Y Y Y U Q R T U U T U E E E E E E E E W 3 - 4 min 5 - 15 min 30 min 30 min 50 min 10 - 15 min 80 - 90 min 20 min 10 min 60 - 120 min 50 min 50 min 15 - 20 min 15 min 5 - 20 min 60 - 70 min 10 - 15 min 30 min 80 min 50 min Approach S S S S S S A S S S S S S S F S S S S S ------2 1 6 2 11 15 16 45 7a+ up 7a+ VII+ up VII+ ------3 3 1 1 7 3 5 4 19 29 61 32 6b to 7a 6b to VI+ VII to - 5 3 2 5 5 5 7 1 3 2 3 2 1 4 11 10 17 55 22 5 to 6a+ 5 to IV+ VI to ------2 4 3 2 1 1 8 1 1 13 34 up to IV up to up to 4+ up to ------2 5 6 2 1 12 18 73 42 25 77 Sport 164 Routes ------2 7 1 6 2 8 4 3 1 4 7 13 12 Trad Trad Routes Destination Planner Destination

Sas Ciampac Vallon Oscura della Luna Oscura Tridentina Crag and Eiszeit Crag Tridentina and Mur de Brunico Torre Pisciadù Frea Odle/Geisler Group Sella Towers dei SassiCittà Piz Ciavazes Piz Sass Pordoi South Face Sass Pordoi Face Northwest Sass Pordoi Marmolada South Face Passo Fedaia Passo dei Fiacconi Pian Penia di Canazei Penia Vajolet Towers Vajolet Cima Catinaccio Cima Emma Punta Porte Neigre Porte

Val Gardena Val Sella Pass Sella Fedaia Pass/Marmolada Fedaia Catinaccio/Rosengarten

Pass V. de V. Fassa Pordoi Pordoi 64 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime

Catinaccio Fassa di Val Marmolada Pordoi Sella Gardena Val Fanis North Valparola Falzarego Tofana Torri Cinque Cortina Misurina Cime Tre 406 416 432 436 438 443 454 458 464 468 474 482 296 302 318 334 336 345 348 358 374 Page 292 Summary of Sass de Stria is one of the most well-travelled routes in the South Arete of Sass de Stria is one of the Whilst Averau is primarily renowned for its easy via ferrata and stunning panoramic Whilst Averau views from the summit, the Alverà route also has a good reputation and is well worth seeking out in you are in the area. which can be seen Punta Fiames is home to the classic Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete, and the long early, from the centre of Cortina itself. The face comes into condition of traffic. and complicated approach helps to moderate the amount and makes for a pleasant This small face comes into condition early in the season half day venue. above Lago di Misurina, is easily accessed via the Col de perched This small tower, and features another classic Comici offering. chairlift Varda below the superbly situated Rifugio Fonda Savio. A classic and popular tower perched unusual and engaging This trio of towers is well worth the long approach for some traditional routes. , while the south The west face of Cima Grande features the classic Dülfer Corner face hosts the Normal Route up this much sought after peak. Both are susceptible to season. holding snow and are best tackled in mid season to late multi-pitch sport routes. This impressive tower contains several excellent trad and gullies often hold snow Though the climbs come into condition quickly the descent late into the season. Cime peaks yet still well worth seeking out for the The most understated of the Tre descents mean the climbs routes on the southeast face. The sunny aspect and easy the immediate area. here are often some of the first to come into condition in Cime. The Cassin on the southeast face is The smallest of the main towers at the Tre a good preparation climb for parties considering the north faces of Cima Grande or Ovest. The Preuss Chimney on the north side is also superb. The routes here One of the six classic north faces of the Alps and highly sought after. are steep, sustained and major undertakings. The aspect and altitude mean it is best left until mid season to avoid finding ice in the upper pitches. rock and consequently not on less reassuring Much like Cima Grande only steeper, and the audacious yet brilliant Cassin Home to Alex Huber's masterpieces as popular. route. , one of the best routes in the Dolomites, this impressive this impressive in the Dolomites, the best routes Muro, one of the Grande Featuring trad climbs. tough but superb a number of wall has a looking for solitude and something is recommended for those This strange crag is more than long and tiring approach from the beaten track. The bit different away leader. sure you have a confident for by the climbing, just make compensated sport. The single and multi-pitch sport crags in the area offering One of the largest destination for hot days. makes the site a good surrounding woodland a and Lagazuoi Nord retain of Cima del Lago, Cima Scotoni The west faces you wish to in peak season if feel and are highly recommended fantastically remote superb trad routes of varyingescape the crowds. All host difficulties. The Dolomites, offering a perfect climbing. The neighbouring introduction to multi-pitch with many good low-grade routes. popular, Sass de Stria sport crag is equally heritage, Lagazuoi Piccolo also War for its First World Whilst arguably more famous enjoyable trad climbs. boasts a number of short yet modest stature but are incredibly popular and with good These two towers are only of out, just don't is particularly worth seeking reason. The classic Comici - South Arete expect to get this one to yourself! di Rozes, this sunny south face, with neighbouring Tofana Often overshadowed by the length trad routes, deserveits many enjoyable moderate more recognition. fearsome reputation. The central pillar of Pilastro di A Dolomites big wall with a the north face of Cima Grande only with far less hype. Rozes is of the same scale as are utterly superb. If you're up to it Via Costantini-Apollonio or Sognando l'Aurora feature trad and sport routes of all lengths and grades. The five towers of Cinque Torri just beware that it can get This is a must-visit spot for anyone in this beautiful area, busy during peak season. * * Sheltered Sun U U Y Y U U U U U T T U R E E E E E E E W W 45 - 60 min 45 min 50 min 50 min 50 - 55 min 60 min 20 - 30 min 30 min 25 - 30 min 20 - 60 min 5 - 20 min 15 - 20 min 40 - 120 min 45 min 30 min 70 min 120 min 90 min 130 min 10 - 25 min 45 - 100 min 5 min Approach S S S S S S G S S S S F S S S S S S S S F S ------1 1 4 3 1 1 1 1 27 83 7a+ up 7a+ VII+ up VII+ ------3 2 1 1 3 1 3 1 40 97 6b to 7a 6b to VI+ VII to - - - - 2 2 1 1 7 4 3 3 1 2 2 2 1 3 2 19 19 48 5 to 6a+ 5 to IV+ VI to ------1 1 1 2 1 2 1 4 9 3 1 18 up to IV up to up to 4+ up to ------1 1 3 1 1 29 Sport 110 203 Routes - 2 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 3 4 3 1 3 5 4 3 1 5 4 10 Trad Trad 23 Routes Destination Planner Destination

Cima Grande North Grande Cima Face Ovest Cima Cima Piccolissima Cima Cima Piccola Cima Frida Punta Il Gobbo, Torre Leo and del Diavolo Leo Torre Il Gobbo, and South Faces West Grande Cima Torre Wundt Torre Monte Popena Basso Popena Monte Varda de Col Punta Punta Fiames Punta Cinque Torri Cinque Averau Tofana di Rozes Tofana Falzarego Towers Falzarego dei Bos Col Sass de Stria/Hexenstein Lagazuoi Piccolo Punte di Fanes and Lagazuoi Grande and Lagazuoi Fanes di Punte Sasso delle Nove/Sass de les Nu Sasso Nove/Sass delle Sass Dlacia Sas dla Crusc/Sasso Croce della

Lagazuoi

Tre Cime Tre Misurina Cinqui Torre Cinqui Falzarego Pass Falzarego Fanis

P.Fanes P.Fanes

Basin Group Tofana Cortina 66 Catinaccio Val di Fassa Marmolada Pordoi Sella Val Gardena Fanis Valparola North Falzarego Tofana Cinque Torri Cortina Misurina Tre Cime