1 The Dolomites Catinaccio Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata Val di Fassa Val James Rushforth Marmolada Pordoi Text, topos and uncredited photography by James Rushforth Action photography by James Rushforth Sella or as credited Edited by Alan James Printed in Europe LF Book Services Limited (ISO 14001 and FSC certified printers) Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) Gardena Val All maps by ROCKFAX Some maps based on original Fanis source data from openstreetmap.org First published by ROCKFAX in August 2014 Reprinted with minor updates November 2019 © ROCKFAX 2014, 2019 Valparola North Valparola rockfax.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be Falzarego reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. Tofana This book is printed on FSC-certified paper made from 100% virgin fibre sourced from sustainable forestry Cinque Torri Cinque ISBN 978 1 873341 97 1 This book belongs to: Cortina Cover photo: Lynne Hempton on the stunning Misurina traverse pitch of Via Myriam (V+) - page 384 - on Cinque Torri. This page: The difficult and exposed starting traverse of Tomaselli (VF5C) - page 324 - on Cime Tre Cima Fanes Sud. Photo: PatitucciPhoto.com Contents The Dolomites 3 Introduction . 4 Val Gardena and Alta Badia..................... 234 Climbing History ................................. 6 Odle/Geisler Group............................. 238 Geology .......................................12 Sass Rigais................................... 244 Culture ........................................14 VF Sandro Pertini .............................. 248 Catinaccio The Rockfax App ................................16 Frea ........................................ 250 Symbol, Map and Topo Key ........................17 Tridentina Crag ................................ 260 Other Guidebooks and Maps ......................18 Torre Brunico and Mur de Pisciadù ................ 268 Acknowledgements ............................. 20 VF Brigata Tridentina ........................... 272 Rockfax Publications............................. 22 Oscura della Luna ..............................276 di Fassa Val Logistics ..................................... 24 Sas Ciampac ................................. 278 Emergencies and Rescue ........................ 26 Vallon ....................................... 282 Where are the Dolomites? ........................ 28 VF Piz da Lech................................ 288 Getting There .................................. 30 Fanis Group ................................. 290 Without a Car . 32 Sas dla Crusc/Sasso della Croce.................. 292 Marmolada When to Go ................................... 34 Sasso delle Nove/Sass de les Nu ................. 296 Where to Stay.................................. 36 Valparola North............................... 300 Rifugios....................................... 38 Sass Dlacia .................................. 302 Shops and Tourist Information ..................... 40 Punte (Zimes) di Fanes and Lagazuoi Grande ........318 Pordoi Guiding Services ............................... 42 VF Tomaselli .................................. 324 Road Biking ................................... 44 Falzarego Pass . 328 Mountain Biking ................................ 46 Sass de Stria/Hexenstein ........................ 330 Other Activities . 48 Lagazuoi Piccolo .............................. 336 Via Ferrata .................................... 50 Falzarego Towers .............................. 344 Sella Grades, Gear and Etiquette ...................... 54 Col dei Bos................................... 348 Via Ferrata Destination Planner .................... 56 VF Col dei Bos/degli Alpini....................... 350 Climbing ..................................... 58 Tofana Group ................................ 356 Climbing Gear ................................. 60 Tofana di Rozes ............................... 358 Climbing Grades................................ 62 VF Giovanni Lipella . 360 Climbing Route Finding and Timing ................. 63 VF Punta Anna and Lamon/Formenton ............. 368 Gardena Val Climbing Destination Planner...................... 64 Cinque Torri and Averau........................ 372 Catinaccio/Rosengarten ........................ 68 Cinque Torri ...................................374 VF Roda di Vael ................................ 72 Averau ...................................... 406 Porte Neigre ....................................74 VF Averau.................................... 408 Fanis Cima Catinaccio .................................76 Cortina and Ampezzo Basin .....................412 Punta Emma................................... 78 Ettore Bovero ..................................414 Vajolet Towers.................................. 84 Punta Fiames . .416 VF Catinaccio d'Antermoia........................ 90 VF Michielli Strobel..............................418 VF Val Duron .................................. 92 VF Ivano Dibona............................... 422 VF Sentiero Massimiliano......................... 94 VF Marino Bianchi . 424 North Valparola VF Laurenzi-Molignon ........................... 96 VF Ski Club 18 ................................ 426 Val di Fassa................................... 98 VF Sorapiss Circuit............................. 428 VF Franco Gadoti ..............................100 Misurina Area ................................ 430 VF Magnifici Quattro.............................102 Monte Popena Basso ........................... 432 Falzarego VF Col Ombert/Kaiserjeger . .104 Punta Col de Varda............................. 436 Penia di Canazei ...............................106 Torre Wundt .................................. 438 VF Dei Finanzieri/Colac . 110 Il Gobbo, Torre del Diavolo and Torre Leo ........... 442 Fedaia Pass/Marmolada Group ...................112 VF Merlone................................... 446 Passo Fedaia and Pian dei Fiacconi ................116 Tre Cime .................................... 448 Tofana VF Marmolada West Ridge .......................122 Cima Grande West and South Faces............... 454 VF Eterna Brigata Cadore - Punta Serauta ...........124 Cima Piccola ................................. 458 Marmolada - South Face .........................126 Punta Frida ................................... 464 Pordoi Pass...................................160 Cima Piccolissima ............................. 468 VF Via delle Trincee - La Mesola . .162 Cima Grande North Face .........................474 Cinque Torri Cinque VF Cesare Piazzetta.............................164 Cima Ovest................................... 482 Sass Pordoi South Face..........................166 VF Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler................... 486 Sella Pass ....................................170 VF Delle Scalette . 488 Sass Pordoi Northwest Face ......................172 Piz Ciavazes...................................176 Route Index .................................. 490 Cortina Sella Towers ...................................194 Via Ferrata Index.............................. 495 VF Delle Mèsules - Possnecker ................... 206 Crag Index ................................... 495 VF Col Rodella ................................ 208 Map and General Index ........................ 496 Città dei Sassi..................................210 Misurina Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper Cime Tre judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 4 The Dolomites Introduction Introduction The Dolomites 5 Catinaccio Located in northern Italy and with a unique mix of Italian and Austrian culture, the Dolomites is home to some of the grandest yet most accessible climbing and via ferrata in the world. The area is steeped in history and peppered with the names of some of mountaineering’s Catinaccio greatest historical figures - Comici, Lacedelli, Mariacher, Messner, Piaz, Preuss, Vinatzer and Val di Fassa Val Huber to name but a few. The climbing offers something to appeal to every taste, where both the enthusiastic novice di Fassa Val Marmolada and seasoned veteran are catered for in abundance; single pitch sport crags sit next to kilometre-long traditional routes; historical 'rites of passage' run parallel to modern bolted desperates. Alongside these rock climbs are the via ferrata, historical and modern mountain routes protected with metal wires and interspersed with breathtaking ladders and unlikely Marmolada Pordoi suspension bridges. These provide aerial assault courses which combine the thrill of an ascent on rock with the security of a protected mountain scramble and give relatively