The in-flight magazine of Air NiuginI volume 1 january – february 2017 Paradise

2017 ALMANAC The must-see events in PNG, Asia and the South Pacific

SMOKIN’ HOT ISLAND DELIGHT CITY GUIDE PLUS: How to see the world’s A photo snapshot of the Everything you need to PNG Culture best volcanoes Trobriand Islands know about Seoul Fashion Trekking

in paradise contentS

AIRLINE NEWS DEPARTURE LOUNGE THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

A message from Air Niugini’s Q&A: Winnie Kiap, PNG’s high commissioner to London 14 chairman 8 Goal! PNG’s proudest FIFA moment 15 New planes, more flights 10 A taste of Italy in PNG 16 Lounge improvements 10 Brisbane showcases PNG artists 18 F100 named after ‘Rabaul’ 12 Restoration for Raffles in Singapore 19 Streamlined air travel with online check-in 12 Beachfront glamping in Bali 20

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD

Smokin’ hot The big trek Trobriands snapshot Volcano tourists going A journey along the 220-kilometre Island life to extremes 22 Kapa Kapa Trail 30 in photos 42 Barefoot luxury Review An enviable lifestyle at Fijian resort 48 Gateway Hotel, Port Moresby 66

City guide Three of a Kind Everything you need to know about Seoul 56 Our favourite jungle hikes 68

Out There Time Traveller 70 A PNG paddling adventure 64

4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine in paradise contentS

LIVING LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT Glamour on the runway 2017 almanac PNG fashion designers The year ahead in PNG 84 and Asia/Pacific show off their labels 72 Spotted in PNG economist in Ohio 88

A piece of PNG Tapa cloth 92

Money matters PNG currency from seashells, to coins and notes 94

The rat pack Scientists catch a rare Bougainville rodent 96 Celebration of food A taste of the Ubud Food Festival 98 Air comfort 102 BRAIN GYM Gadgets and QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD travel accessories 104 How well do you know PNG Book previews 106 and the region? Take the quiz. 123

Movie previews 108 Solutions 124

STRICTLY BUSINESS ARRIVALS LOUNGE PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES PNG VISITOR GUIDE

Sweet success Advice, where to eat, hotels 126 International cocoa buyers tour PNG 132 110 Tok Pisin words and phrases Port Moresby street map 133

Lae street map 134

AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER Ocean report Credit where it’s due INFORMATION 136 The dollar value of Melanesian Ease of doing business oceans revealed 114 in PNG on the rise 119

People power Anitua is the largest and most successful landowner company in PNG 116

Cover photo: Smiling faces of Papua New Guinea. PICTURE: DAVID KIRKLAND, PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

January – February 2017 5 Paradise Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year.

BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally PUBLISHING DIRECTOR EDITOR recognised standard for environmental management. This Andrew Wilkins Robert Upe publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR STAFF WRITERS sustainable forestry practices. Robert Hamilton-Jones David James, Kevin McQuillan Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Anthony Leydin Richard Andrews, John Borthwick, John Brooksbank, businessadvantagepng.com. +61 (0)415 586 027 Greg Clarke, Matthew Crawford, Gabrielle Dunlevy, Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and [email protected] Sandhya Dusk Nand, Peter Gamgee, Bronwen Gora, photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care Michael Hince, Belinda Jackson, Brian Johnston, will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept Business Advantage International Pty Ltd Nina Karnikowski, Ben Packham, Matt Shea. responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this Level 23, HWT Tower publication may be reproduced without the written permission 40 City Road, Southgate VIC 3006, Australia AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view Tel +61 3 9674 7129 Fax +61 3 9674 0400 Michael Boyacii, Illan Kaprangi expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily www.businessadvantageinternational.com represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. DESIGN Information contained in this publication may be correct only Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may Editorial inquiries be subject to change at any time and without notice. CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE Tel +61 3 9674 7129 © Copyright. 2017. All rights reserved. The Chief Executive Officer [email protected] Air Niugini PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Paradise online Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550 www.airniuginiparadise.com

6 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Welcome aboard

he board, management and Early this year we will commence charter services to Shanghai, staff of Air Niugini join with me China, ahead of the introduction of regular services to the world’s in wishing you a healthy and largest nation. T prosperous New Year. In our March schedule, we will make further advances when As 2017 begins, we at Air Niugini Air Niugini commences regular services to Townsville, Queensland. are focused on meeting the significant This step will enhance the growth of the Jacksons Airport hub. challenges we face in a difficult Travellers from Townsville, and surrounding areas, will be able to environment for our nation and connect with our services to major destinations, including Singapore, our economy. In difficult economic Manila, Hong Kong and Narita, and soon Shanghai. conditions airlines are impacted quite On the domestic front, Air Niugini as the official carrier of the 2017 seriously. PNG Games, will be uplifting thousands of athletes to and from Our challenge is to manage a difficult Hoskins in the West New Britain Province. Over 9000 athletes from situation while fully discharging the obligations we have as the all over our country will be competing in at least 28 sports. The national carrier to provide air services to every province – and that Games will run over two weeks. includes services that are unprofitable or marginal. In conclusion, I want to take the opportunity on behalf of the whole I want to assure you the board and management of Air Niugini are Air Niugini family, and I believe you our valued customers, to warmly fully focused on doing so and, wherever possible, just not maintaining congratulate Cardinal Sir John Ribat, Catholic Archbishop of Port services but expanding them to meet the growing demand brought Moresby, on becoming the first from the Bishops Conference of Papua about by the development of tourist attractions and economic New Guinea and Solomon Islands to be made a Cardinal of development generally. the universal Catholic Church. However, it is vital we also continue with the careful expansion His elevation reflects the important contribution the Christian plans that we have been developing for implementation in 2017, churches as a whole make to the life of our many communities right and I want to outline the key components. across Papua New Guinea. Our plans centre on maximising the benefits for Air Niugini, and Air Niugini is proud to be the carrier for many of the clergy, the travelling public, of the significant re-development of Jacksons missionaries, teachers and health workers for all our churches – and International Airport, Port Moresby, funded by the National we are privileged to welcome on board our first cardinal. Government. I hope you enjoy your flight – and that we will be able to welcome To do so, Air Niugini is developing our international airport as a major you back soon. hub for the Pacific Islands, and northern Australia, connecting with the rapidly developing economies of Southeast Asia and Asia generally. At the beginning of December, our first regular service connecting Papua New Guinea and the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) commenced. This will benefit the people, and the businesses, of FSM, a regional neighbour and good friend. It will also greatly benefit Sir Frederick Reiher KCMG KBE travellers from Australia and New Zealand, as well as from Japan and Chairman, Air Niugini Limited our Southeast Asian neighbours who want to visit FSM.

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Airline news The latest from Air Niugini

Cardinal for PNG he archbishop of Port Moresby, Sir John Ribat (pictured below), has been named by Pope Francis T as one of 17 new cardinals. He is the first-ever Papua New Guinean cardinal and told local media that the appointment, late last year, came as a surprise. “If it is the will of God, then may he give me his grace and strength to fulfil this course and carry out this responsibility,” Cardinal Ribat said. Lounge improvements “I am grateful to accept this call and this appointment may come as personal, but it ir Niugini’s Destinations Gold Club A new signature breakfast hatch will see is really for the church and for our people members travelling from Brisbane chefs serving breakfast dishes to order, such of PNG.” to Port Moresby have access to as healthy breakfast bowls, bircher muesli Cardinal Ribat is from the Volavolo Athe new Qantas international lounge and French toast. The lounge will also offer village in the East New Britain Province. that was unveiled late last year. a premium hot and cold buffet. Cardinals are the most senior members The lounge – situated on two levels – offers The offering is part of the enhanced lounge of the Roman Catholic Church, after nearly 30 per cent more space than the experience available to Air Niugini’s Gold the Pope. previous lounges. Club members. Cardinal John Dew, The furnishings are inspired by a relaxed Air Niugini has also been revamping its of New Zealand, approach to living in the tropical north, lounges in Papua New Guinea, including welcomed the with timber cafe seating and low-slung the flagship Port Moresby lounge, the award- appointment and said sofas. Inset rugs bring colour and texture winning Mount Hagen lounge, Lae and Hoskins. bishops in NZ and reminiscent of the reef, sandbars and Goroka is also earmarked for a revamp. n throughout waterways of Queensland’s coast and inlets. To further improve your flying experience, Oceania are Seasonal menus are designed by Qantas see our story on page 102 about the best delighted. n food doyen Neil Perry, with a focus on comfort items to take on board. working with local food producers. New plane touches down in Port Moresby

ir Niugini’s latest acquisition, a fifth “The F70 has the ability to fly 35 per cent Fokker 70 aircraft, arrived in Port greater distances with the same load Moresby late last year. A further four as its propeller-driven competitors, and its Aare scheduled to be delivered this year. faster speed reduces flight times by Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon 20 minutes on average . It also flies 30 per Foo, says the latest arrival is a continuation cent higher than the Q400 and ATR, of Air Niugini’s re-fleeting program to ensuring customers a smoother and replace the Q400 aircraft and standardise its quieter journey.” domestic and short-haul regional international Air Niugini has 25 aircraft, including B767, operations on an all-Fokker 100/70 jet fleet. B737, F100, F70, Q400 and Dash 8s. The Dash He says the F70 has significant advantages 8s are operated by its subsidiary company, On the tarmac ... the latest addition to Air over propeller-driven aircraft in speed, range, Link PNG. n Niugini’s fleet is this Fokker 70. It is one of nine and passenger comfort. that will be delivered to boost the fleet.

10 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine airline news The latest from Air Niugini

StreamlineD air travel with online check-in ir Niugini passengers on domestic and international flights are being encouraged to make use of the Aairline’s online check-in system to avoid queuing at airport check-in counters. The airline’s general manager of customers and markets, Dominic Kaumu, says the online check-in is a self-service facility available at airniugini.com.pg. “Passengers have the advantage of selecting their preferred seats and being able to purchase other services such as extra Aircraft named after ‘Rabaul’ leg room seats, extra baggage allowances and other products that may be on offer on 100 Air Niugini has named one of its These flights cover 13 destinations in Asia, the flight.” Fokker 100 aircraft ‘Rabaul’, following Australia and the Pacific.” He says that at the end of the online on from another F100 that has been Sir Frederick also said that East New Britain, check-in process, passengers can print Fnamed ‘City of Lae’ and F70s that have and its capital Rabaul, have been nominated or email their boarding passes, and those been named ‘Mt Hagen’, ‘Hoskins’ by the National Government under its four without baggage can proceed to the and ‘Alotau’. pillars of national economic development security gate and into the boarding lounge Air Niugini chairman Sir Frederick Reiher plan as the tourism hub for the country, and without having to present themselves at said at the naming ceremony that the name therefore it is fitting to have the provincial the check-in counter. ‘Rabaul’ is in recognition of the significant capital’s name on one of its aircraft. Passengers with bags can check-in at contribution made by East New Britain Sir Frederick, Air Niugini chief executive a specific bag-drop counter without having towards the airline’s domestic routes. officer, Simon Foo, Rabaul MP Dr Allan Marat to go through the entire check-in process. Air Niugini currently operates 48 flights a and ENB governor Ereman ToBaining Junior Passengers can check-in online from week between Rabaul and Port Moresby, (pictured above) conducted the naming 24 hours up to three hours before the flight Kavieng, Buka, Kieta, Lihir, Hoskins and Lae. ceremony during a heavy downpour in Rabaul. departs. The online service is available to “Through the national hub in Port Meanwhile, Link PNG is planning new passengers travelling on all Air Niugini and Moresby, Air Niugini connects Rabaul to 55 services between Rabaul and Jacquinot Bay Link PNG destinations, except for Australia international flights a week in each direction. this year. n and Japan, which will come online later. n Hundreds attend airline’s open day undreds of people turned up for Among the staff on hand was aircraft Air Niugini’s recent open day at the maintenance engineer Walumi Nagela Vunapope School in Kokopo, East (pictured right). HNew Britain. He specialises in airframe and powerplant The day was part of the airline’s 43rd rating on the Fokker F70 and F100, anniversary activities in Kokopo. Different Bombardier DHC-8-200, DHC-8-300, and departments within the airline provided the Q400 aircraft. n career information and showcased their activities.

12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Departure Lounge News, briefings, local knowledge

Q: Where do you think the opportunities Paradise Q&A are for PNG to sell to the UK? Is it agricultural commodities like palm oil and coffee? A: They (the UK) are becoming a big nation of coffee drinkers because the young WINNIE KIAP population now prefers to be identified with coffee rather than with tea. It’s a coffee generation. So that’s the market that we PNG’S high commissioner to the UK grew up on Manus have to target. Our coffee (and chocolate from our single-origin cocoa) is already Island and now mixes in diplomatic circles in London. in the supermarkets but we have huge competition from African and American Q: It’s a long way from Manus Island 15 Realm Countries for which the Queen is producers. As a tourist destination PNG has to being PNG’s high commissioner to head of state. My role was to co-ordinate no competitor in our region. Our product – the UK. How did you get there? the countries (through their London high our cultural diversity, natural beauty of A: I was fortunate to be given a scholarship commissioners), the palace and the the land and sea, biodiversity both on land to study in Australia, where I did my portraitist. Her Majesty agreed to sit for and in the sea – is unique. You travel from secondary schooling and university. I have the portrait, and we presented it to her at one area to another only 30 minutes away been a public servant all my life – starting a small ceremony at St James’s Palace. and you are in a different language and with my first job in Tonga – and my position (The only Realm countries not to be part of cultural area. Where else in the Pacific do now is really that of a public servant. the project were Australia and Canada.) you get that? n Q: PNG’s relationships with other Q: What other things do you have to countries have grown over the past 10 or do in your role? 15 years, possibly because PNG has more A: I need to make sure to offer economically. Do you agree that the British Government people are starting to notice PNG more? and London-based A: Yes, I think so. The LNG Project multilaterals are aware increased the footprint of Papua New Guinea of the opportunities internationally and is opening up doors PNG offers and also to many other (business) opportunities. the kinds of challenges We are engaging more with the world, not that we face. Most of only in business, but also in multi lateral the time I speak not policy arenas. only for PNG, but also Q: Is your role to facilitate relationships for the Pacific Island between PNG and the United Kingdom? countries as a whole. A: PNG already has a special relationship My role also includes with the United Kingdom, because the Queen facilitating bilateral relations is our head of state. She is represented by with Cyprus, Egypt, Israel, the governor-general. That relationship is South Africa and Zimbabwe. a glue that binds PNG to the British monarchy, I represent PNG to and therefore in a sense to the UK. One these countries. of my roles is to uphold that relationship. So that includes building relationships with palace officials. Q: You co-ordinated the painting of a portrait of the Queen? A: Yes, it was for the Realm Countries to mark the occasion of the Queen becoming the longest-reigning British monarch (on September 9, 2015), overtaking Queen Victoria. Other than the UK, there are

14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE with Robert Upe

Goal! PNG’s proudest FIFA moment

apua New Guinea’s Under 20 women’s The team scored PNG’s first-ever goal in team in the FIFA World Cup soccer a FIFA tournament, thanks to speedy forward tournament, played in Port Moresby Nicollete Ageva, who beat two defenders P late last year, created a little bit of and the advancing keeper to slot the ball history in the clash against Korea DPR. into the net. “I was really excited and proud of myself, and also for proving to my country that we could achieve this,” Ageva told FIFA.com. “It was our aim for this game just to score one goal for us and for all of PNG.” There were more than 9000 people at the match, held at the Sir John Guise Stadium, The PNG team … goal scorer Nicollete Ageva is Best foot in the back row, third from right. forward and as Ageva’s teammates swamped her, ... PNG’s the crowd went into a frenzy. But Ageva, who hails from Bougainville, told Nicollete PNG qualified for the tournament Ageva in Radio NZ: “This tournament, it will bring the action because it was the host country, but did level of football in Papua New Guinea up and during not win any of its three group matches. motivate other girls to get playing soccer too.” the match It lost to Brazil 0–9, Sweden 0–6 and Korea against The tournament was won by Korea DPR, Brazil. DPR 1–7. which beat France 3-1 in the final. n

January – February 2017 15 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE A taste of Italy in PNG

Master chefs ... Alberto Annarumma and Elnava de Rosa with Airways kitchen staff (left); and two of their creations (above and below).

wo highly awarded Italian chefs such as buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, tomatoes He says of Airways: “It is at once luxurious recently completed an 11-day and lemons. and whimsical, with a DC-3 Dakota aircraft residency at Port Moresby’s Airways Chef de Rosa is a pastry chef who has set into the side of the hotel, and lobby T Hotels, where they presented their trained in Rome, England and France. decorations crafted from fuselages. dishes at the Deli KC delicatessen–bistro. Meanwhile, Airways Hotel has been named “The Vue restaurant, near the infinity pool Alberto Annarumma and Elnava de Rosa in a list of the world’s best hotels. on the seventh floor, has been renovated worked alongside local chefs during their visit. Huffington Post contributor, travel pioneer and offers brilliant food (and fresh coconut Chef Annarumma has worked in Michelin- and ‘father’ of modern adventure travel, water), with a delectable view of the Owen starred restaurants around the globe, Richard Bangs, placed Airways fifth in the top Stanley Ranges, Bootless Bay and the nearby including the Ritz-Carlton in Hong Kong and 10 hotels he has experienced. international runway.” n Four Seasons in Paris. Bangs based his selections – posted on his See richardbangs.com, airways.com.pg. He specialises in pizza and pasta and blog – on cosiness, service and ‘ineffable the use of traditional Italian ingredients quality of heart’.

16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Brisbane showcases PNG art

major exhibition of Kwoman Koromb or Spirit House PNG art is on at the builders of the Sepik, and Queensland Art Gallery the Omie barkcloth artists of A in Brisbane until the Oro Province. end of January. Its title, No. 1 PNG art cannot just sit there Neighbour, suggests its intention in silence. Storytelling is its first –using pidgin patois to underline accompaniment. There were that PNG and Australia are close. sing-sing performances at the The selection of artworks exhibition opening, along with from the 50-year period 1966 to films showing the performances 2015 is intended “to expand our of the legendary PNG band knowledge of a shared history”, Sanguma. On show ... John Siune’s Boyfriend says curator Ruth McDougall. McDougall wants Australia and Girlfriend (1999). Artists include Simon Gende, to recognise its colonial past about the exhibition, with Lucas Tangun, Lisa Hilli, Mathias in PNG and go on to rejoice in essays on individual artists Kauage, Julia Mage’au Gray and the vibrancy and strength of its and groups. n On show ... Adam and Eve (2011), John Siune; while communities No. 1 Neighbour today. carved by Lucas Tangun, is on loan See qagoma.qld.gov.au. in Brisbane from the Alcheringa include the Baining mask-makers The QAG has also published a Gallery in Canada. from East New Britain, the a lively and colourful catalogue —JEREMY ECCLES

18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Raffles restoration

ingapore’s famous Raffles arcade that includes 40 shops Hotel will undergo a major and the Long Bar, home of the restoration this year. iconic Singapore Sling. It will be carried out in Singapore Slings will continue S Ready for a facelift ... renovation work on Raffles Hotel in Singapore will get three phases, meaning the hotel to be served from the hotel’s will be able to operate as usual Bar & Billiard Room during the underway at the start of this year and will be completed next year. for most of 2017. restoration. However, near the end of the Following the work in the in 1987, Raffles is one of the blend of classical architecture year, it will close completely arcade area, some of the hotel’s world’s few remaining 19th- and tropical-garden setting. before a grand re-opening in the 103 suites and lobby will be century hotels. The most recent restoration second quarter of 2018. restored. It has gained international was conducted from 1989 to The renovation work will start Declared a National Monument recognition as an oasis for the 1991, with the hotel closing for in the heritage hotel’s shopping by the Singapore Government well travelled, with its unique two and a half years. n

January – February 2017 19 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Glamping in Bali

ali’s first beachfront park, at least four hours by Inside ... one of the luxurious tent bedrooms glamping resort has road from the hustle and bustle at Menjangan. opened in the far north of Denpasar. There are plans of the island, offering to introduce helicopter and Far north Bali ... the Menjangan B resort is sited on a peninsula. African-style safari tents with seaplane transfers. queen-size beds, polished Some of the best diving is at that are suitable for families, floorboards, television, Wi-Fi, nearby Menjangan Island, where from $US450. The villas have showers, flushing toilets and turtles, big sea fans and wall their own infinity plunge pools. timber decks with sea views diving provide the highlights. The resort opened in across to Java. Snorkellers will like it, too, and September and the guests, so The Menjangan Beach Camp there are other activities such far, have mainly been expats and Dive Resort also has a as stand-up paddleboarding living in the region. Be sure to day spa, a relaxed beach club and kayaking. get there before everyone else where meals are served (try the Beach camp tents, ideal for catches on. n fresh-caught fish), an open-air two people, start from $US230 bar, and an infinity pool with a night, including breakfast, Air Niugini flies to waiter service. afternoon tea, a 15-minute spa Bali weekly. See It’s a low-key affair, set on 16 sampler and Wi-Fi. There are also airniugini.com.pg and hectares adjacent to a national one and two-bedroom tent villas mdr.pphotels.com. Japanese wine on the rise

he Japanese love their koshu. It’s a white table wine with It’s refreshingly easy to drink shochu, sake, whisky and a flavour that sits somewhere and its purity and limpidity give it beer, and lately even their between sauvignon blanc and a ‘Zen-like’ character, according Twine, especially if it’s made riesling, and as such pairs beautifully to world-renowned wine from the emerging and increasingly with Japanese cuisine – especially authority Jancis Robinson. popular koshu grape grown in sashimi, sushi and tempura. Koshu wine is not new to the Yamanashi Prefecture (the Pale in colour and light bodied, Japan; however, its quality Bordeaux of Japan) in the foothills it’s low in alcohol with a crisp has improved dramatically over of Mount Fuji. acidity and a clean finish. the past decade. In 2010 it Koshu ... a white table wine perfect I visited Yamanashi recently and Aromatically, it’s a melange of was the first Japanese grape with sashimi or tempura. was surprised and impressed by citrus and stone fruit. variety to be certified by the European Union. Some of the better koshu I have It is starting to pop up in some of tasted include Grace, Haramo, NUMBER CRUNCH Asia’s top Japanese restaurants Katsunuma Jyozo, Kurambon, and is served at Japan’s overseas Lumiere, Marufuji’s ‘Rubaiyat’ plant species live in embassies. It’s even reached as PNG, according to the and Yamato . far south as Australia. 15,000-20,000World Wildlife Fund. So, if you’re flying to Tokyo Traditionally, wine is seldom The country has more than 2000 species of orchids and 2000 species with Air Niugini and you like served with local cuisine in of ferns. There are still remnants of most plants of Gondwanaland, a white wine, and wish to savour Japan; however, koshu is ‘super-continent’ that more than 100 million years ago included most something quintessentially starting to gain a wider of the landmasses that make up Australia, New Guinea, Antarctica, Japanese, koshu is for you. n South America, Africa, Madagascar, India, Arabia and New Zealand. acceptance, both domestically and internationally. —MICHAEL HINCE

20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller our country, our region, our world

Fascinated by nature’s spectacular fireworks, Smokin’ a breed of adventurers is chasing volcanic eruptions around the world, including PNG. Belinda Jackson hot reports. eering into a chasm in the Earth’s crust is the chance to peer into creation – pits of bubbling, boiling Plava, deep rumbling voices from our planet’s core, plumes of sulphurous gases and the spectacular, powerful arcs of red-hot, molten lava shooting into a darkened sky. PICTURES: ULLAPICTURES: LOHMANN

22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR world

Fireworks ... an observer gets close to volcanic activity in PNG.

January – February 2017 23 traveller OUR world Smokin' hot

Fire and smoke ... volcanologists are fascinated with Southeast Asia, including Mount Tarvurvur in PNG (left and main photo).

24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR world Smokin' hot

For some, it’s a glimpse into hell. For others, it’s the perfect holiday. “I guess we’re like storm chasers and people who want to see solar eclipses – we’re in the We do visit active volcanoes while they’re same family,” says Belgian geologist Dr Ingrid Smet, a guide for Volcano Adventures (VA). erupting. However, the scientific community Founded in 2014 by German volcanologist constantly monitors most significant volcanoes. and adventurer Dr Tom Pfeiffer, VA adventures across the world, from Papua New Guinea to When these volcanoes give any sign of elevated Japan and Guatemala, each destination adding action, the local authorities restrict access. its own local flavour. “Some people want to travel off the beaten track, to see new cultures and try new foods, while others travel for days specifically to see a volcano erupting and to photograph it,” says Smet of VA’s guests. First, let’s ask the most obvious question for those of us who have never chased volcanoes before: is it safe to stand on the edge of a caldera – a volcanic crater – armed with nothing but a tripod and maybe a hard hat? “We do visit active volcanoes while they’re erupting, such as Erta Ale in Ethiopia, or Kilauea in Hawaii,” says Smet. However, she says most significant volcanoes are also constantly monitored by the scientific community and local authorities, which track their activity 24/7. “When these volcanoes give any sign of unnatural or elevated action, the local authorities restrict access,” she reassures. Southeast Asia is particularly fascinating for volcanologists – from PNG to Vanuatu, the Philippines and Indonesia, entire countries were created by volcanoes, and form part of the 40,000-kilometre Pacific Rim of Fire that is home to more than 75 per cent of the world’s volcanoes.

January – February 2017 25 traveller OUR world Smokin' hot

PNG is a hotbed of volcanic activity, with a high density of volcanoes, says photographer, filmmaker and VA guide Ulla Lohmann, who has been exploring the country for 15 years. “There is always at least one volcano erupting,” she says. “It’s not only the volcanoes that are intriguing, but also the people who live close to the volcanoes and live with the permanent destruction of their environment. “I love to visit Mount Garbuna (West New Britain), a volcano that has erupted after 1700 years of inactivity in 2005, or Mount Ulawun (New Britain), one of the Decade Volcanoes (16 volcanoes across the world identified as being worthy of particular study because of their history of large, destructive eruptions and proximity to populated areas).” In 2017, VA plans to visit two new destinations, Russia’s remote eastern peninsula of fire and ice, Kamchatka, to see

Steambath ... Papua New Guinean children play in the shallows near Mount Tarvurvur.

26 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR world Smokin' hot

Land of volcanoes ... looking over New Ireland, home to the Luise caldera, which generates hot springs, boiling mud pools and gas vents (above); a villager at Matiput Island, near Rabaul, collects bird eggs as a volcano smokes in the background (left).

five of its most active volcanoes, and Around the world, some 500 million a more gentle pilot tour to Myanmar, people live on or close to volcanoes, which also includes exploration of caves, which feature in legends, songs, histories archaeological sites and its food and and even Hollywood movies. We can culture. observe, worship or fear, yet they refuse “It’s not only the volcano that counts, to be contained or controlled. but also the journey to the volcano,” “You can’t put nature in boxes,” says says Lohmann. Lohmann. “It just doesn’t fit.”

NEED TO KNOW TOURING The next Expedition Papua volcano tour takes place July 11-24. Costs PGK13,300 a person (not including international airfares). MORE INFORMATION volcano-adventures.com. READING Volcano Discoveries: A Photographic Journey Around the World (2015) by Tom Pfeiffer & Ingrid Smet, Reed New Holland, about PGK95 (hardcover), au.newhollandpublishers.com.

28 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country

Longer and steeper than the Kokoda Trail, PNG’s Kapa Kapa Trail took its toll on US soldiers during World War 2. Peter Gamgee reports. The big trek

y the light of a fire, I’m listening to a story My son, Jake, and I are trekking 220 beaches village of Buna, and Bardey Walbino about how a big snake formed the Bofu kilometres over the Owen Stanley Range on the and Didibu Iova are from the village of Laronu River and how evil spirits blocked it. little-known Kapa Kapa Trail. in the southern foothills of the Owen Stanley BThe legend goes that the warriors who It runs roughly parallel, and 50 kilometres Range. They accompany us as guides, carriers, tried to unblock the river were turned into black southeast, of the 96-kilometre Kokoda Trail. and increasingly as we travel, friends. and white birds that to this day come out before Also in our small trekking group are a few We’re spending the night at Bofu village, every flood. local people. Peter Bonga is from the northern where the welcome has been spontaneous

30 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country

On the trail ... the author beside the Kemp Welsh River (left); trekkers crossing the Mimai River (above right); celebrating after reaching a plateau (above middle); and a friendly wave from a banana farmer on the Kemp Welsh River (right). and heart warming, and we’re sharing the prize Popondetta is the capital of Oro Province General McArthur, who was the from the recent village hunting party – wild pig, and is a day’s walk plus a 30-minute truck ride commander of the South West Pacific roasted over hot rocks. away, and is also our restocking destination. Our forces, sent 1000 troops over this barely Our host, Mary, is not only feeding us tonight – ultimate destination is Buna on the coast. passable trail to cut off the Japanese but also about 30 other transient villagers from We are walking the Kapa Kapa Trail, following supply line to the Kokoda Trail and mount far-flung communities who are making their way the route taken in October 1942, by the US 126th an assault on the Japanese fortification at to the markets in Popondetta. Infantry Regiment of the 32nd Red Arrows Division. Buna.

January – February 2017 31 traveller OUR country The big trek

On the way to war ... US troops from the 126th Infantry Regiment board an aircraft at the Amberley RAAF Base in Queensland, Australia, bound for Port Moresby during World War 2 (left); the troops crossing one of many streams along the Kapa Kapa Trail (right).

The Kapa Kapa Trail took its toll on As I sit in the open guest hut in this one-family soldiers gave rise to the name of the trail, those troops. By the time they got over village, I reflect on how we started our trek the Kapa Kapa.) the ranges only a quarter were still fit 25 days earlier. At Gaba Gaba, we meet Bala, who tells us that to fight, the rest having succumbed to We travelled by truck a few hours east of Port he recalls the Americans passing by in 1942. exhaustion, sickness, tropical infections Moresby to the coastal village of Gaba Gaba. (A Bala, who must have been about 14 at the time, and injuries. mispronunciation of the village name by the US says the soldiers were mostly kind. While many

32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country The big trek

Our host feeds us boiled green bananas. It is a bit hard for our stomachs to get used to but we eat it because we know we will need the energy for the next day’s walk.

A foot soak ... trekkers cross the Avaru River along the Kapa Kapa Trail (left); the jungle path beside the Kemp Welsh River near the village of Kokenomu where villagers grow betel nut and bananas to take by raft down the river to various markets. of the locals fled, some were conscripted as the soldiers who started discarding their In the lower villages by the Kemp Welsh River Fuzzy Wuzzies to help the soldiers. full packs at this point. They dropped anything the village life is basic. They grow betel nut and After Gaba Gaba, we continue our trek they thought was not essential, including bananas to take by raft down the river to sell at alongside the Kemp Welsh River. We blankets, but regretted this later when the markets in Kwikila or Port Moresby. sweat profusely in the humidity and even they were in the damp and cold of the high At Kokenomu village, our host Debbie empties the smallest of hills has us sympathising with country. out part of her two-room hut for us to stay

January – February 2017 33 traveller OUR country The big trek

ELEVATION (metres) 3000

2000

195.0053 km 1000

37.2 O 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 DISTANCE (km)

Moments along the Kapa Kapa Trail ... the author and Bardey Walbino smell some local ginger on the side of the Mimai River (top left); a small eating house (top right); a graphic showing the elevation of the trail (middle); the author with villagers at Jaure (bottom left); coconut trees tower over the village of Umwate (bottom right). and she feeds us with their staple diet – boiled way to the central and largest village on the themselves behind enemy lines after being cut green bananas. It is a bit hard for our stomachs south side of the range, Doribisoro. off at the battle of Isuava on the Kokoda Trail. to get used to but we eat it because we know We stay overnight in a house vacated for After a six-week journey, which was undertaken we will need the energy for the next day’s walk. us, and in the intense heat of the morning sun mostly without food, Buckler and the rest of his We leave the banks of the Kemp Welsh River we follow our village guide to the grave of an party made it out successfully along the Kapa and climb up and over our first mountain range. Australian soldier, private Albert King. Kapa Trail, rafting the last section down the The track is narrow, and after a night camping Private King, who perished as a result of Kemp Welsh River. in a jungle clearing, under a tarpaulin, where the sickness, was the aide to Captain Buckler. Just after leaving Doribisoro, we visit the leeches find their way into our sleeping bags, Buckler was the leader of a party of 41 sister village of Igonomu on the other side of the we pause at the quaint village of Imiduru on the Australian soldiers from the 2/14th who found Mimai River. The access across the river is

34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country The big trek a wire-rope bridge patched up with many pieces of wood and vines. Just to be safe and sure, we cross one at a time and we are careful where we place our feet. At Igonomu we are welcomed by villagers in traditional dress and offered food for our journey up the Mimai River valley. We walk for about four hours along the banks of the Mimai River, criss-crossing this beautiful mountain stream, as we make our way to the village of Laronu and the home to Walbino and Iova. It is still hot, but the walk is pleasantly relaxing. The people in the villages along the way want us to stop and talk and share their shelter and some of the fruit they have picked. It is here that we get our first taste of the local pineapples. They are beautifully sweet and thirst quenching. Welcome ... a dance party greets trekkers Laronu village is the jewel of the Kapa Kapa as they enter Itokama Trail. Nestled in the foothills of the ranges, the village (this page); climate is temperate, the accommodation in a boys from the village of Umwate are painted comfortable guesthouse, and we find the best, up to greet trekkers albeit cold, swimming hole so far. (opposite page).

36 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country The big trek

I spend time talking to Berua about the history of the village and his recollections of the time the ‘Americans came’, while Jake is off with the older boys, trying his hand at fishing for eels in the mountain streams. After leaving the comfort of Laronu, we rapidly climb to the plateau looking over the Mimai River valley and then walk further to a remote hunting camp by a jungle stream, about 1200 metres above sea level. This is the start of a continuous climb to our highest point on the trail. Rising early, we start just before daylight. It is a matter of head down and one foot in front of the other, sometimes grabbing trees to help get up the steep and ill-defined trail. Eventually, after clambering through a moss forest that could have been the set for Lord of The Rings, we reach Niori, or Bardey’s Pass as it has locally been dubbed, just before midday. It is cold here and we put on our warmest gear while we spend a little time celebrating having reached 2750 metres, the highest point on the trail.

January – February 2017 37 traveller OUR country The big trek

Enough to feed an army ... cutting up a monster vegetable frittata for a feast at Itokama village (left); smoked fish in the village of Goreba (top right); a welcome to Bofu village (bottom right).

As the sun disappears behind the constantly Leaving some newly formed friends at New forming cloud over the ranges, we are happy Suwari behind, we walk for a couple of days, to make as rapid decent as possible to dropping down further out of the mountains to another bush camp, about 1500 metres the river systems until we arrive at the village lower. This camp is also the site of of Umwate. In the centre of the village are a grave of one of the US soldiers towering coconut trees, the first we have seen 0 and a sobering reminder to since leaving Gaba Gaba. w e us of the hard times the We are surrounded by children eager to n Buna 126th endured. engage us in a game of soccer. Their ball, which S Popondetta ta n There’s another early start is the consistency of rubber, has been crafted le the next day and we walk from the trunk of a large tree fern. y for about 10 hours through Jake is surprised and delighted when he

Kokoda Trail Kapa Kapa Trail uninhabited country to the is given one of the largest pineapples I have

remotest village on our ever seen. Laronu journey. I dub this village After a few steep hills, the terrain flattens out Port Bardey’s Pass Moresby New Suwari because it was and we walk through a series of pristine villages Ra n created just a year ago in to arrive at Itokama. ges Gaba Gaba the confluence of two rivers, We are welcomed like royalty, and villagers replacing Suwari, an old village from the surrounding area are there to greet us 0 Km 100 that had poor access to water and and share a feast of local food, the highlight of land for gardens. which is a vegetable frittata more than

38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country The big trek a metre in diameter that was cooked with For those prepared to take this journey, Today, however, the thoughts of the tragedy hot rocks, or mumu. collectively climbing 9500 metres – much and hardships then suffered are overshadowed At our next stop of Natanga, I am taken to more than a Mount Everest summit, you are by the beauty of the landscape, the sense the site of an ancient cannibalism-era village guaranteed an adventure at a grass roots of adventure, the culture and the welcoming where the huts were built in the trees. level. In many places the trail and the jungle communities along the way. On the way back to the village we visit the are the same as they were for the soldiers dancing trees of the bird of paradise – with of the 126th. two magnificent male birds in full swing, flying between two of their favourite trees. Close by is the wreck of a cargo plane that was downed in 1942 when a parachute fouled NEED TO KNOW the tail while dropping food to the 126th Infantry Regiment. The regiment’s leader, TREKKING It takes 18–20 days to complete the Kapa Kapa Trail, with some rest days. Getaway Trekking Colonel Quinn, who was on board to make sure (getawaytrekking.com.au) does an annual trek that the supplies got to the troops, was killed in includes carriers, pre-trek training, food, accommodation that crash. in tents or village huts, and an experienced guide. The cost is about PGK15,300. When we finally end this amazing adventure in Buna on the northern beaches I know READING The Kapa Kapa by Peter Gamgee is available from everestsports.com.au or online at Amazon. we will be both sad and relieved. We are thankful we have made the journey in safety, but it is going to take a big effort to return to ‘normal’ life.

January – February 2017 39

traveller OUR country

They play cricket here, riotously, about 50 a side, with a hand-carved bat and teams dressed in leis and loincloths.

A smile for all occasions ... Trobriand Islanders show their happy demeanour whether sheltering from rain, dancing in the sand, or battling it out in a tug of war (this page); Kitava girls show off their balancing skills, a dancer adorned with shells, coral and beads, and a game of cricket (opposite page). PICTURES: JOHN BORTHWICK JOHN PICTURES:

42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country

TROBRIAND ISLANDS SNAPSHOT Award-winning travel writer John Borthwick journeys to the Trobriand Islands, where he experiences enthusiastic dancing and cricket.

t Kitava, in eastern loincloths, headdresses and face- Papua New Guinea’s paint, they’re ready for a day of legendary Trobriand exuberant dancing, singing and AIslands, the welcome mat tug-of-war tussles. for our cruise ship is a barefoot Passengers from the Pacific supermarket on the beach. We Eden wander through the village come ashore to find that the with its neat wood-and-thatch local carvers, among the best in homes, yam houses and playing the Pacific, have displayed finely field. The gardens nearby are worked wooden bowls inlaid bursting with taro, banana and with mother-of-pearl, as well as breadfruit. In fact, the Trobriands’ elaborate ebony walking staves traditional diet of seafood, fruits and delicate shell necklaces. and yam is acclaimed as perhaps The arrival of a ship is important the healthiest in the world – heart in the island economy, and school disease and strokes are virtually kids have the day off. With many unknown. of them dressed in traditional

January – February 2017 43 traveller OUR country Trobriand Islands snapshot

Our next port, Kiriwina Island, home to some 12,000 people, is the largest in the Trobriands group. They play cricket here, riotously, about 50 a side, with a hand- carved bat and teams dressed in leis and loincloths. It takes place to the wild accompaniment of whistles and conch horns, and slogging a ball carved from a guava tree root. Following the cricket, on come the dancers in attire that is both demurely skimpy and elaborate.

Small enterprise ... a boy does some busking for cruise passengers with his homemade ukelele (left); a girl sells souvenir seashells on the beach (right).

44 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country Trobriand Islands snapshot

Bedecked with grass skirts, flowers, feathers, shells and boar tusks, even Christmas tinsel, the men and women dance up a storm, singing lustily and often breaking into laughter. Here, too, a pop-up beachside market appears with carved crocodiles and platters, shell necklaces, bowls and beadwork a-plenty. Our kina and dollars flow freely ashore. And then it’s time to go. The carvers head home and our good ship moves on but, I suspect, somewhat lower in the water now under the weight of all our Trobriands’ treasure.

Sheltering from the rain ... a Kitava woman casually waits out a shower under her palm frond ‘umbrella’ (left); men in outrigger dugout canoes greet cruise passengers (middle); Pacific Eden anchored at Kiriwina Island (right).

46 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country Trobriand Islands snapshot

Port Moresby

Alotau

Trobriand Kitava Islands Island group Kiriwina Island 0 100 Km

0 Km 20

John Borthwick is the 2016-17 travel writer of the year, judged by the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He travelled to the Trobriand Islands on a seven-day cruise from Cairns on P&O’s Pacific Eden.

January – February 2017 47 traveller our region

Beachfront ... a villa at Fiji’s Nanuku Auberge Resort. Barefoot luxury, Fijian style Bronwen Gora experiences the enviable lifestyle of Fiji’s Nanuku Auberge resort.

48 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

he happy sound of voices singing As the sole boutique resort on Fiji’s main Fijian welcome songs wafts through island Viti Levu, Nanuku beachfront resort is Nanuku beachfront resort the air as my taxi approaches Nanuku intimate and luxe, its collection of stylish villas is intimate and luxe, its TAuberge Resort. At the entrance I and impressive penthouse suites nestling in collection of stylish villas discover my personal choir is a male quartet landscaped grounds, footsteps from Beqa Lagoon. dressed as Fijian warriors, and they lead me Along with its stunning location, I quickly and impressive penthouse along a stone pathway to the resort’s beachside realise Nanuku’s success also comes down to suites nestling in landscaped lawn and pool. offering the perfect balance between home grounds, footsteps from I’m handed a cocktail while staff take photos comfort and over-the-top luxury. The rooms are Beqa Lagoon. of the new guest and her greeters before a palatial and the food five-star, yet the staff are backdrop of swaying palms, bright blue sea and so friendly and natural, everyone so genuinely the setting sun. Any residual city stress dissolves caring and the service so thoughtful that I’m in laughter and the warm tropical breeze. instantly at ease while living like a royal.

January – February 2017 49 traveller our region Barefoot luxury, Fijian style

On the market ... Nanuku properties for sale come with tranquil gardens and pool areas.

It is like being welcomed into a large extended edged plunge pool on the balcony overlooking she is there to look after anything I may need family. the lagoon. – dinner reservations, massage reservations, As a result I feel right at home in my I’ve just thrown my suitcase open when my ‘villa room service – anything at all. Fabulous news. penthouse suite with a spa bath is as large as mama’, Ani, comes to the door. Villa mamas are But now there is a dilemma only I can solve: my bathroom at home, and there is a horizon- assigned to every villa, I learn, and Ani explains shall I swing in the egg chair hanging by the

50 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region Barefoot luxury, Fijian style

Relax ... massage and day spa treatments are on offer at Nanuku. pool, or go explore? The latter is tempting. like snorkelling, shopping and visiting I sit on the sandy beach looking back at the Nanuku is located on Fiji’s ‘activity capital’ – waterfalls, there is everything – as well as resort, lost in a meditative trance as impossibly the Coral Coast – with no shortage of nothing – to do. clear water laps at my feet. A few metres away tropical adventures. From diving with I choose to visit Nanuku resort’s private island, a media crew photographs a model for a glossy sharks and surfing to more subdued pursuits a pretty little outcrop a short jetski ride away. publication’s fashion spread.

52 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region Barefoot luxury, Fijian style

Comfort ... the villas offer five-star interiors and views.

The next day I go on a food safari with from their hiding places, and then it’s on to a The fresh seafood proves irresistible, so I can’t a guide from the resort. We start at a local local crab farm, where I choose a crustacean go past signing up for the traditional prawn market, where I’m enlightened about all sorts for dinner. On our return, it is thankfully put cookout, also on Nanuku’s activity menu. of local fruit and vegetables. Next stop is into the capable hands of Nanuku’s chefs. Myself and a few other guests are shown how a village where local women ‘call’ prawns It is delicious. to build a fire, and then watch as our Fijian

January – February 2017 53 traveller our region Barefoot luxury, Fijian style guide hollows out a piece of freshly cut bamboo Marketing of the Nanuku Auberge property in which the prawns are cooked. development started last October and building Along with its stunning location, the lifestyle will continue over the next few years. on offer here is a major reason Nanuku is rolling Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby out Fiji’s largest and most upscale freehold to Fiji three times a week. beachfront property development. See airniugini.com.pg. A selection of chic island villas and prestige ocean-view homes is taking shape along the beach, adjacent the resort.

Resort villas ... Nanuku resort has a stunning location NEED TO KNOW on Beqa Lagoon. STAYING THERE Rooms start from PGK2600 a night for two people staying for three nights on the 'More For Less' package in any style of accommodation. Includes two 50-minute spa treatments, meals, non-alcoholic beverages, non-motorised water activities, Wi-Fi and selected cultural activities. BUYING THERE Beach Villas start from $US495,000. MORE INFORMATION nanukufiji.com

54 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller our region

City guide:

SeoulWhile the South Korean capital may seem like a city of the future, a thick vein of traditionalism runs just under the surface. Matthew C. Crawford reports.

irst-time visitors to Seoul can easily feel Seoul has an incredibly fast rate of change. its old city wall registered as a UNESCO World intimidated – after all, where do you begin A case in point is the 123-storey Lotte Tower, Heritage Site. in a city with more than 10 subway lines which has become the new city landmark after The choice is yours – see the city from a Fand well over 100 stations? just a few years of construction. At the same 500-metre observation deck or on a stroll along On top of the sheer size and scale of things, time, though, Seoul has been working to have a 500-year-old wall, or both.

56 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Seoul

Seoul sites ... the city can be navigated by foot, or ultra-efficient public transport (left); Gyeonbok Palace (middle); Museum of Modern Art (right).

GETTING AROUND SIGHTS CULTURE VULTURE Seoul’s city centre was the royal palace district Among Seoul’s five royal palaces, Gyeongbok Museums and galleries abound in the of the last dynasty, Joseon. From the main and Changdeok palaces (eng.cdg.go.kr) are Samcheong-dong neighbourhood, east of gate of Gyeongbok Palace runs Sejong Avenue, the grandest. For Changdeok Palace, be sure Gyeongbok Palace, and the touristy lanes of named after a beloved scholarly king. Though to make an advance reservation as its Secret Insadong. The city’s heavy hitters include the the city was once bounded by the mountains Garden can only be visited as part of a guided National Museum of Korea (www.museum. of Bukhansan in the north and the Han River tour. The kingly garden is photogenic in all go.kr/site/eng), an imposing edifice near in the south, it now stretches beyond the seasons, but do bring comfortable footwear Ichon Station. Entry is free for the permanent river to Gangnam. It’s possible to navigate as there’s a great deal of territory to cover, exhibitions, which are graced with national the downtown area on foot, but for longer including a few hills. After taking in some of treasures. Nearby, a short walk from Samgakji journeys, use Seoul’s ultra-efficient subway the royal sites, you may want to mingle with Station, the War Memorial of Korea (www. or bus system. Otherwise, take one of the the common folk at the gargantuan Gwangjang warmemo.or.kr) will clear up any questions many taxis. Daytime fares begin at KRW3000 Market, which has some of the best food you might have about the Korean War, or war for regular taxis. Deluxe and international stalls in the city, and shops selling hanbok, the in general. In Samcheong-dong, the Seoul taxis are a bit pricier. traditional Korean costume. To visit several sites branch of the National Museum of Modern and in one day, consider buying a day pass for the Contemporary Art (www.mmca.go.kr/eng) Seoul Tiger Bus (en.seoulcitybus.com), a hop- can be counted on for cutting-edge exhibits on, hop-off shuttle with a downtown circuit and installations. The main building dates (22 stops), Panorama Course (16 stops) and back to 1932 and was once the Defense Night Course (nine stops). Security Command.

58 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Seoul

Top attractions ... the Seoul Grand Park (left); shopping for local crafts (centre); Namsan cable car (right).

CHILD’S PLAY RETAIL THERAPY SPORTING LIFE Children are sure to enjoy the Changing of the Touted as the biggest market in the country, In terms of hilliness, Seoul stands head to head Royal Guards ceremony (www.royalguard.or.kr) Namdaemun Market has a lot on offer, including with cities like San Francisco. It even lays claim in front of Deoksu Palace, near City Hall Station. souvenirs and two colourful (but hard-to-find) to a few mountains. A hike up Namsan to the Performances take place every day, except food alleys, one specialising in kalguksu N Seoul Tower will take about 30 minutes, Monday, at 11am, 2pm, and 3.30pm, and there (noodle soup) and the other in galchi jorim though there’s also a cable car. More difficult are similar performances at nearby locations. (hairtail hotpot). The market is centrally are the grinds up mounts Bugak and Inwang, Seoul has four IMAX theatres and three large located, next to Hoehyeon Station. At the both of which follow the old city wall. For truly aquariums — the Lotte World Aquarium other end of the retail spectrum is Coex Mall sublime hiking, or even rock climbing, head to (www.lotteworld.com/aquarium/en), the Coex (www.coex.co.kr/eng), near Samseong Station Bukhansan National Park. Joggers and cyclists Aquarium (www.coexaqua.co.kr/index _ eng. in Gangnam. Said to be the largest underground favor the paths along the Han River and the asp), and Aqua Planet 63. Outside of the city shopping mall in Asia, it reopened in 2014 after various streams that feed into it, but think twice limits but easy to reach by subway, Seoul a comprehensive makeover. before entering city traffic on a bicycle. It’s also Zoo is one of the draws at Seoul Grand Park easy to find batting cages, screen-golf centres, (grandpark.seoul.go.kr/engMain.jsp). and even punching machines on the streets of Seoul.

60 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Seoul

A testing trek ... the path to Mount Inwang beside the old city wall (left); Seoul Plaza, a prime location to stay (right).

ESCAPE cuisine, take a KTX from Yongsan Station to Hotel President (www.hotelpresident.co.kr) and Travellers can quickly escape from the capital Gwangju (just under two hours). Gwangju’s Plaza (www.hoteltheplaza.com), which is run to the countryside on a train or bus. From Seoul specialties include tteok-kalbi (grilled short-rib by Marriot. In the business district of Yeouido, Station, high-speed KTX trains take just over patties), which are best sampled at a cluster of the Conrad (www.conradseoul.co.kr) offers two hours to reach Gyeongju, the capital of the restaurants in the Songjeong area. up-close views of the Han River. For affordability Silla Dynasty (57 BC to 935 AD). A visitor to PILLOW TALK paired with four-star quality, consider staying at Gyeongju should take in the timeless Buddhist The Westin Chosun (www.westinchosun.co.kr) the Best Western Premier Hotel Kukdo (premier- temple of Bulguksa and, high up on a hillside, is the country’s oldest hotel and has a prime hotel-kukdo-seoul.h-rzn.com), in the downtown the mystical sculptures of Seokguram Grotto. location next to Seoul Plaza – a public space neighbourhood of Euljiro 3-ga. A spate of The city’s other historical offerings include with a sidewalk fountain in the summer and guesthouses has been cropping up in recent ancient royal tombs just a few blocks from the an ice rink in the winter. Nearby are the swank years, though local motels, called yeogwan, bus station. To visit the heartland of Korean are cheaper.

January – February 2017 61 traveller our region City guide: Seoul

WATERING HOLES goes on. In the Gyeongnidan neighbourhood, SEOUL SPECIAL For decades, Itaewon, near next to Itaewon, Magpie Brewing Though Western-style the US Army’s Yongsan (magpiebrewing.com) has become the hub of bakeries and doughnut Garrison, has been the Seoul’s craft-beer scene on the strength of its shops can be found city’s nightlife area pale ale. While there are dozens of coffee-shop throughout the city, par excellence. chains to choose from, Hakrim Dabang is one you may notice more In recent years, of the originals. Opened in 1956 in the theatre traditional treats laid it has grown district of Hyehwa-dong, its classical music and out on counters in the trendy with refined ambiance make it an urban sanctuary. quieter, older parts of Koreans town. These colourful as well as EATS confections are rice foreigners, Korea’s national dish is kimchi – spicy fermented cakes (tteok), and they shedding cabbage – and the best place to revel in the range from rainbow some of red stuff is at Hanokjib Kimchi Jjim (hanokjib. cake (mujigae tteok) its rougher co.kr), accessible from Exit 1 of Seodaemun to half-moon cakes elements in the Station. The restaurant’s specialty, kimchi jjim, (songpyeon), which process. One of is a platter of aged kimchi and steamed pork are an essential part the holdouts from that falls apart at the touch of a chopstick. For of Korea’s harvest the old days is Seoul a perfect pairing, order a bowl of kimchi jjigae festival. Pub, which fills up with (kimchi and pork stew) and a jug of rice beer characters as the night (makgeolli).

A taste of Seoul ... the Hakrim Dabang coffee shop (left); fresh produce at Gwangjang Market (right).

62 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Seoul

TUCK IN Grilled meat restaurants are ubiquitous in Seoul – every neighbourhood has one or two, and some have a dozen. Most serve various cuts of beef and pork, and the tipples of choice are beer, soju (the local firewater), or a mix of Port Moresby the two. The tables are equipped with grills so diners can cook their own meat, pieces of which can be wrapped with condiments in leafy vegetables or simply dipped in salt or sesame oil. The well-preserved Ikseon-dong area Seoul japan has a cluster of welcoming grilled meat restaurants, with outdoor seating along the narrow lanes. They’re a South Korea short walk from Exit 6 of Jongno 3-ga Station. Tokyo

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Tokyo twice a week. Connect from Toyko to Seoul with 0 Km 800 local carriers. See airniugini.com.pg.

seoul Population: Currency: Taxi fare from International Power: 10 million South Korean airport: dialling code: 220 volts and require won KRW1000 = To downtown area +82 a plug with two Language: PGK3 KRW65,000 round prongs. Korean

January – February 2017 63 traveller our country

r sa gge fa ri r t i u o out there

E C Outrigger adventure … o IN visitors travel in canoes ro OV and mingle with locals in PR the Oro Province.

addling a bamboo outrigger from village to village There’s also the chance along remote PNG coastline may sound like an to see the world’s largest adventure only for the most intrepid travellers. butterfly – the Queen Alexander birdwing – and to P But not so. This is an experience suitable even go fishing with villagers to catch a seafood dinner. for families, and is available in the Oro Province with Visiting kids will be right in their element. The village PNG Trekking Adventures. pikininis (children) will paint them up and dress them The three-day expedition starts and finishes at the Tufi in traditional costumes. Dive and Adventure Resort and includes two overnight Sing-sings are another part of the trip, with villagers performing their stays in villages, snorkelling, visits to waterfalls and lonely white-sand traditional songs and dances. beaches, as well as swimming in jungle water holes. The village guesthouses are basic, with sandy floors, mattresses and The dug-out outriggers have large bamboo platforms on which guests mosquito nets. There is no power or running water. Light is supplied from sit. There’s plenty of time to soak in the scenery and take photos, because candles and kerosene lanterns. There are bucket showers, and pit toilets. local guides and crew do the paddling. Tufi is the only area in the southern hemisphere that has fjords, other After hugging the coastline, they’ll paddle into picture-perfect fjords and than New Zealand and Patagonia. then explore jungle-fringed tributaries. The trip costs about PGK1400 a person. The best time to visit is There’s a bit of walking involved to one of the inland villages, and also between October and June. if you choose to go on a 4am bird watching excursion to see PNG’s For more information see pngtrekkingadventures.com. famed birds of paradise. —ROBERT UPE

64 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our country

REVIEW: GATEWAY HOTEL AND APARTMENTS coralseahotels.com.pg +675 327 8255

WHO STAYS? Mix of corporate guests, tour groups and more casual travellers. HOW BIG? 194 keys (130 guest rooms and 64 apartments). COST From PGK531. CHECK IN AND OUT 12pm/10am HIGHLIGHTS Extensive conference and function facilities. Plenty to do on-site during downtime, with Jackson’s Bar, Restaurant and Gaming a great addition to the property. NEARBY The airport is barely a minute’s drive away, front gate to terminal. If you get bored with eating in, Bacchus — a terrific fine diner attached to the Airways Hotel — is just a couple of hundred metres up the road. LOCATION Situated about as close as you can get to Wi-Fi in rooms/public areas: Jacksons International Airport, Gateway’s Fee for Wi-Fi: sprawling nature means this is actually a relatively peaceful inn, particularly if you TV: take a room on the Jacksons Parade side of Air conditioning in room: the complex. Ceiling fan in room: THE PLACE Business centre: Significant renovations in 2011 have seen Gateway became a popular destination Gym: for business conferences (there are seven Room service: conference rooms, in various sizes, which can be joined together). Otherwise, it’s an understated Swimming pool: FOOD AND DRINK four-star property that’s perhaps beginning to You certainly won’t go hungry. Wild Orchid (6am Free airport transfers: show a few signs of age despite some fastidious to 10pm) is the hotel’s lynchpin, which outside Hotel arranges tours: upkeep. This isn’t a luxury resort, but the of breakfast hours serves buffet and a la carte essentials are spot on: crisp service, clean meals. But 2016 saw Gateway invest heavily in Breakfast included in room charge: public areas – which include tennis courts, a food and beverage, with three new restaurants WHAT GUESTS LIKE generously sized swimming pool and fitness opening on site. Enzo’s (7am to 10pm) offers centre – and an efficient 24-hour airport pick-up “The service from the doorman, porter, decent pizzas and burgers, while the brand new and drop-off service. concierge and front desk was good. Security is Sizzler’s (11am to 10pm) is a family restaurant good.” – Booking.com ROOMS focusing on steak and seafood. The drawcard, “Delicious club sandwiches, cookies and pizza There are three types – deluxe, premier and though, is Jackson’s Bar, Restaurant and Gaming supreme; cocktails at Jackson’s rooftop bar executive – along with a selection of studio, one, (10am to 11pm) – a slick bolthole (pictured watching the planes and sunset.” two or three-bedroom apartments. All feature above) on the high side of the precinct with – Agoda.com polished tile floors, air conditioning, satellite TV, views straight across the airfield. Also, it has fridge and tea and coffee-making facilities. The the coldest beer in town, locals will tell you. “I usually choose rooms with a balcony for the rooms include sizeable work desks and our room Departure Bar (8am to 10pm) is a relaxed lobby fresh air and to take in the the lovely garden – some way along the eastern wing of the joint to while away the hours before your flight. and pool areas.” – TripAdvisor hotel – picked up a decent connection to the Room service is 24 hours. free Wi-Fi. —MATT SHEA

66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

Three of a kind … jungle hikes

MOUNT WILHELM, CROSS-ISLAND TREK, LAVENA COASTAL TRAIL, PAPua NEW GUINEA RAROTONGA, COOK ISLANDS TAVEUNI, FIJI Wilhelm is the highest mountain in PNG – You’ll want to lace up your boots good and Taveuni is known as the garden island of Fiji, there’s a solid trail leading to the summit, but proper for this day hike, which begins on the and for good reason. It’s rugged and wild, you definitely will feel the effects of altitude north coast at Avarua Harbour and leads up covered in lush vegetation and palm trees, at an insane 4509 metres. Be prepared and the Avatiu Valley, through dense tropical forest fringed with white-sand beaches made of make sure you’re in good physical condition and a mountainous interior. Trekkers emerge at ground-up coral, and is so pretty they filmed before you attempt the four-day ascent (you the pinnacle of Te Rua Manga rock, also known the movie Return to the Blue Lagoon here. can do it in three, but why rush it)? Escape as the ‘Needle’, a remarkable rock formation Taveuni Adventures can guide you along the Trekking Adventures can take you there, using and an ancient place of worship. From there beach, through the forests and over streams a moderately difficult route from Keglsugl the track continues south, through Rarotonga’s for a full day. in the Chimbu Province. The best months to interior rainforest, passing giant ferns and SOMETHING SPECIAL climb are May to November – the weather is the Papua Stream, and ends near Wigmore’s You won’t Forget the dazzling panoramas warm during the day and quite cool at night. Waterfall on the south coast. Thankfully, you’ll take in as you meander along. Ditto for Whenever you go, the views from the top will there’s a bus there to take you back along the the dramatic waterfalls you’ll pass which, be magnificent. coast road to your starting point. complete with icy pools that are perfect for SOMETHING SPECIAL SOMETHING SPECIAL cooling off in, are your reward for working up If you decide to take on the challenge, Doing this walk with Pa Teuruaa of Pa’s Treks, a a sweat. you’ll be rewarded with one of the most colourful, dreadlocked local character who has DON’T MISS scenically magnificent areas of PNG. You’ll been guiding hikers (including the Dalai Lama) Dropping into Lavena Village on your return pass through high-elevation rainforests, across Rarotonga for over 30 years, will mean journey. moss-coated forests, alpine grasslands and you get to hear his famed stories of the island’s a glacial valley, which are home to spectacular ancient myths and legends en route. He will WEBSITE sights including abundant wild orchids and also make sure no exotic butterfly, endemic taveuni.com.au a savanna of cycads. plant or fern goes unnoticed. DON’T MISS DON’T MISS The twin lakes of Piunde and Aunde. Sitting Very experienced climbers or the ultra- on the side of the mountain looking down into ambitious can try the punishing 413-metre these glacial lakes is the perfect opportunity ascent up the sheer rock face to the top of the to soak up the serenity. ‘Needle’. It won’t be easy, but the drop-dead gorgeous views of the island spread below you WEBSITE will be worth it. escapetrekkingadventures.com.au WEBSITE pastreks.com

68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller TIME TRAVELLER

time traveller

Jimi Valley, Western Highlands, 1950 Two-year-old Susan Blood travelled in style with her parents, Captain Neptune Blood and Olga Blood, during an expedition to the Jimi Valley in the Western Highlands Province in 1950. They set out from an experimental sheep farm that Captain Blood managed at Nondugl, in the Wahgi Valley, for Sir Edward Hallstrom. A litter was constructed for Susan, carried by four men for the entire journey. The aim of the expedition was to re-establish relations with residents of the Jimi Valley and document the flora and fauna of the area, particularly birds of paradise. The journey took six weeks and involved a line of more than 100 carriers and guides, as well as a few armed policemen. Although the expedition was a well-documented success, gathering many specimens of plants and animals, the sheep farm failed. The herd was diagnosed with intestinal parasites, and the farm became uneconomic to operate and eventually closed. — JOHN BROOKSBANK If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email [email protected].

70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Living lifestyle, culture, sport, entertainment

ALMANAC 2017The year ahead in PNG and Asia/Pacific PAPUA NEW GUINEA

March 18–April 1, PNG Games June 24–July 28, July, Kokoda Trail August 5–7, Sepik River This showcase of PNG sporting PNG elections Mark the 75th anniversary of Crocodile Festival prowess will take place in Kimbe, The national and local government the Japanese landing in PNG The salt and freshwater crocodiles in the West New Britain province. elections take place across by challenging yourself on the of the Sepik River are revered The event, bringing together the country. The theme of the Kokoda Trail, uncovering the by the local communities, who 12,000 athletes from 22 provinces, elections is ‘Your Choice, Protect key battles along the route. The celebrate them with initiation was originally scheduled for last the Democracy’. 96-kilometre track links PNG’s ceremonies, dance and song. November, but was postponed pngec.gov.pg southern and northern coasts. papuanewguinea.travel because it would have clashed kokodatrackauthority.org with the Under-20 Women’s FIFA World Cup tournament in Port Moresby. papuanewguinea.travel

72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living diary

Belinda Jackson previews some of the year’s hot events, including PNG’s colourful festivals, World Cup rugby league in Port Moresby, and firewalking in Fiji.

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

August 19–20, aimed at encouraging trade October 27–December 2, November, Kenu and Mount Hagen Show between tribes, and the crowning Rugby League World Cup Kundu Festival This long-running celebration of the queen, the Hiri Hanenamo. For the first time, PNG is a host Groups from across the Milne of traditional songs, rituals and papuanewguinea.travel partner in the clash of rugby Bay province gather in Alotau dance from the tribes of the greats, which kicks off with PNG to remember the role of kundu September 16–17, Western Highlands Province facing Wales in Port Moresby on drums and dugout canoes in their Goroka Show was established to calm tribal October 28. Matches between ceremonies and rituals, with 2017 marks the 50th anniversary rivalries and retain their cultures. the 14 teams will also take place drama performances, singing and of PNG’s best-known show, where papuanewguinea.travel in New Zealand and Australia, canoe races. the Eastern Highlands reveals its with the grand final in Brisbane on papuanewguinea.travel September 16, Hiri Moale true colours in its annual cultural December 2. Port Moresby has a double gathering of more than 100 tribes, rlwc2017.com celebration with both PNG’s including the crowd-pleasing Independence Day and the Hiri Asaro Mudmen. festival, originally a gathering papuanewguinea.travel

January – February 2017 73 living diary 2017 almanac

AUSTRALIA

Footy fantastic ... the PNG Mosquitoes will be in action in Australia during August.

Brisbane March 24–26, CMC Rocks Townsville July 13–15, February 11–12, Brisbane Queensland July 7–9, Arsenal in Global 10s The Dixie Chicks headline Supercars Sydney tour The newest fixture on the Rugby Australia’s biggest country and Castrol Edge English Premier Union scene, teams of 10-a-side roots music festival in Willowbank, Townsville 400 League giants are drawn around the world, Ipswich, west of Brisbane. Now Three days of Arsenal play international friendlies including France, Samoa and in its 10th year, the cream of raucous revs, with V8 Supercars against Sydney FC and Western South Africa, to meet 10 Super the Australian scene meets including the 2016 winner, a Sydney Wanderers. It’s been Rugby Australian and New international stars. Holden VF Commodore, hitting up 40 years since the Gunners, Zealand teams over two days. cmcrocks.com to 260kmh on the circuit through one of the world’s oldest clubs, brisbaneglobaltens.com Townsville’s city centre. toured Australia. Cairns supercars.com/Townsville arsenalinsydney.com.au March 25, AFL football June 30–July 2, Laura Dance The 23-round season kicks off this Festival Sydney Melbourne weekend. Air Niugini passengers Traditional dance cycles, which May 26–June August 5–19, arriving into Brisbane will be able have been enacted for millennia, 17, Vivid Sydney AFL International Cup to see Queensland rivals Brisbane are performed on the Cape Sydney’s The PNG Mosquitoes are the and Gold Coast Suns clashing at York Peninsula. A chance for harbour lights reigning champions of this Metricon Stadium on the Gold more than 20 communities up for 23 nights, competition, which is held every Coast. The following week (March to pass on their culture and accompanied by a contemporary three years. In 2014, 25 teams 30) Brisbane plays Essendon at the compete for the festival shield. music and ideas program that including PNG’s women’s team, Gabba in Brisbane. afl.com.au lauradancefestival.com covers film, fashion, arts and Flame, competed in the league. design. More than two million The grand final will take place people visit to see the Opera in Melbourne. House, Harbour Bridge and other afl.com.au icons light the sky. vividsydney.com

74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living diary 2017 almanac

hong kong macau

January 28, Chinese November 1–30, February, Procession of September, Macao New Year Celebrations Great November Feast the Passion of Our Lord, the International Fireworks Hong Kong’s biggest party ushers It’s a month of great eating at God Jesus contest the New Year in with a magnificent festivals and eateries across the A unique Macau religious A month-long event, this highly night parade. Taste traditional city. See the best mixologists celebration when an image charged challenge attracts 10 ‘good luck’ foods, undertake temple at play in chic cocktail bars, top of Christ carrying the cross is teams from around the world rituals for good fortune, and shop chefs concocting memorable taken in solemn procession from to compete for the major prize, for bargains. menus and the city’s eat streets St Augustine's Church to the fireworks set off each weekend discoverhongkong.com turn into fun food-party zones. Cathedral for an overnight vigil. in September over the imposing discoverhongkong.com It is then returned through the 338-metre high Macau Tower. city via the stations of the Cross, macaotourism.gov.mo accompanied by a magenta-robed November, Macau Grand Prix escort and crowds of the faithful The longest-running Grand Prix in and curious. the world, this road circuit event macaotourism.gov.mo pits the world’s best Formula 3 April, A-Ma Festival drivers to follow in the footsteps Homage is paid to Macau's most of drivers who later gained fame popular deity, the Goddess of on the Formula One circuits. Seafarers, from whom Macau Motorcycle racing and sports is said to derive its name. The sedans are also included. maiden A-Ma ordered the macaotourism.gov.mo elements to calm down when December, Parade through a storm threatened a boat. The Macao, Latin City winds abated. On the spot where A giant and very colourful the boat reached land, the grateful street parade designed to October 1–31, Sixes, the green-energy ePrix, mariners built the A-Ma Temple. showcase the many facets of Hong Kong Sports Month boxing’s Battle of Victors and the A day when seafarers and their a multi-cultural Macau. As the temperature cools down, historic 1.8-kilometre swimming families visit the ancient temple macaotourism.gov.mo the sporting action hots up with race across Victoria Harbour. in the Inner Harbour. the Hong Kong Open tennis, Cricket discoverhongkong.com macaotourism.gov.mo

76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living diary 2017 almanac

MALAYSIA singapore

March 3–26, festival. The festival aims to iLight Marina Bay raise awareness of eco issues The Marina Bay waterfront through its sustainable light art becomes a gigantic public art installations. ilightmarinabay.sg gallery for Asia’s largest light

Kuala Lumpur Cultural Village, has workshops July 14–16, Rainforest World for dance, kids, meditation and Music Festival showcases local crafts. In between Borneo’s jungle reverberates with acts, go spotting for Irrawaddy the rhythms of world music. The dolphins or crocodiles. family event, held in Sarawak rwmf.net

July 15–31, ‘mod-sin’, modern Singaporean Singapore Food Festival cuisine. Take a crash cookery Food-crazy Singaporeans devour course, or mix classics with new offerings from chefs and hawkers masterpieces on the one plate. dishing up what’s been dubbed yoursingapore.com

September 15–17, Lumpur. With free concerts and F1 Petronas Grand Prix the fastest cars in the world, it’s The Formula One world one of the most affordable races championship takes place in on the F1 circuit. Sepang, an hour south of Kuala formula1.com

October 19–23, lit up with oil lamps and light Deepavali displays, taste festive sweets, get November 1–December 31, bang for your buck in the lead-up Deepavali (or Diwali) is Hinduism’s a henna tattoo or catch a concert. Malaysia Year-End Sale to Christmas, from high-end to joyous Festival of Lights. Head yoursingapore.com Malaysians are pro shoppers, and bargain basement. to Little India to see the streets love a sale. Finish 2017 with more malaysia.travel

January – February 2017 77 living diary 2017 almanac

indonesia fiji

Bali November 20, Makepung September, Bali International Buffalo races Film Festival The grand prix of buffalo races Dubbed BALINALE, international sees hundreds of pairs of buffalo, filmmakers present their work to with jockeys astride traditional locals and expatriates. Now in its wooden ploughs, competing 10th year, expect documentaries in Jembrana, West Bali. The and feature films as well as works Melaya district conducts monthly by upcoming talent, promoting heats leading up to the big race. Nadi Nadi every year, all proceeds go Indonesian cinema. balinale.com indonesia.travel Pacific Nations Cup toward charity. October, Ubud Writers’ and Jakarta Fiji, Tonga and Samoa go head-to- fiji.travel head on the rugby field between Readers’ Festival Djakarta Warehouse Project August, Indian Firewalking three rugby-mad Pacific nations. Cultural, controversial and always (DWP) Maha Devi Temple, in Suva, is the The current champion, Fiji, defends curious, this festival of words and This annual dance-music festival site of spectacular South Indian its title in 2017. worldrugby.org ideas lures the big names in print sees Indo DJs and producers meet firewalking, a religious Hindu rite and spoken word. Includes a kids’ their international counterparts July 22–29, Bula Festival that sees devotees walk through program, writing workshops and in a two-day, heart-pumping The week-long fiesta of talent a trench of fiery embers to help happening after-dark music scene. extravaganza of sound in Jakarta. nights, food stalls, bands and float discipline the mind for a truly ubudwritersfestival.com djakartawarehouse.com processions culminates in the balanced life. crowning of Miss Bula. Held in fiji.travel

78 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living diary 2017 almanac

japan van uatu

Tokyo and parks, which glimmer with November, Autumn Leaves autumn colour (koyo), and indulge If chasing cherry blossoms isn’t in seasonal sweets made from your thing, Tokyo glows in autumn. chestnuts and autumn berries. Visit the city’s traditional gardens gotokyo.org

August, Fukagawa Hachiman the streets bearing 2000-kilogram Festival carriages for the mikoshi, or gods, Get wet and happy at this massive while the crowds throw water on street water fight that pays them: a fun way to cool down in homage to the gods. Teams parade steamy Tokyo. gotokyo.org

Port Vila July, The Kiwanis July 29, Sumida River April–June, Nagol Land Diving Charity Race Week Fireworks Festival Billed as ‘the original bungy Vanuatu’s only horseracing event Dating back nearly 300 years, jump’, every Saturday the men of runs over three days during the competitors vie to win the title Pentecost Island take a 30-metre country’s Independence Day of most creative new fireworks. leap with only a vine wrapped holiday. Pack for the race ball, sumidagawa-hanabi.com around their legs. A woman first fashions on the field and race day, made the jump to escape her raising money for local charities. husband (she survived, he did kiwanis.invanuatu.net not) and it is now a fertility rite. discovervanuatu.com.au

80 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living diary 2017 almanac

solomon islands

October 2–4, a military airbase during World August 7, Guadalcanal landing of the sinking of the HMAS Solomons Dive Festival War 2, and the waters have great commemoration Canberra on August 9, 1942, Scuba divers descend on Munda, wreck diving. 2017 marks the 75th anniversary and the laying of wreaths at on the island of New Georgia, visitsolomons.com.sb of the US Marines’ landing on the American and Japanese Western Province, to explore Guadalcanal, a pivotal point in the monuments. the richness of the corals in the war in the Pacific. Events include visitsolomons.com.sb Vona Vona lagoon. Munda was military parades, commemoration

philippines china June, Wogasia Spear Festival January 30, Miss Universe Shanghai Chinese Grand Prix F1 The island of Santa Catalina 2017 May 30, Duan Wu Jie (Dragon The Mercedes team returns to echoes with bloodcurdling screams Manila’s Mall of Asia Arena will Boat Festival) China to defend its title as winner as warriors face off to shake off be overrun with beauty as it hosts Turn your hand to eating zongzis on this 5.4-kilometre Formula 1 old animosities and welcome a this year’s Miss Universe pageant. (traditional rice dumplings), racetrack, which was designed to new year of peace and fertility The crowds will pour in to see drinking xionghuangjiu (a yellow resemble the Chinese character for during this famed two-day festival. the 2016 queen, local girl Pia wine said to be good for keeping ‘high’ or ‘above’. visitsolomons.com.sb Wurtzbach, hand over the crown. evil at bay), and racing wooden formula1.com itsmorefuninthephilippines.com.au dragon boats to the beat of a drum January, Cebu Sinulog Festival April, Shanghai Fashion Week on the Suzhou River. Filipinas celebrate their acceptance April, Aliwan Fiesta This week-long festival of meet-in-shanghai.net of Christianity with their trademark Religion, culture and tradition are fashion sees kids, men and flamboyance and fireworks: woven into a gloriously spangled women prance on more than 50 the highlight of the month of three-day extravaganza that catwalks, featuring progressive festivities is a religious procession culminates in a four-kilometre designers from China and across and parade on January 15. float parade and street dance the world, in a bid to establish itsmorefuninthephilippines.com.au competition through Manila, Shanghai as Asia’s fashion capital. with rivals drawn from across shanghaifashionweek.com the country. aliwanfiesta.com.ph

Some events did not have dates finalised when Paradise went to press. Check their websites for updates.

82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living fashion

PNG’s fashionistas gathered at Port Moresby’s Gateway Hotel recently for Runway 2016. reports. GlamourSandhya Dusk Nand on the runway

Runway shows that he best of Papua New Guinea’s fashion was on show in Port Moresby recently Papua New Guinea at the third annual Stella magazine has designers and TRunway fashion parade. models with the Genevieve Igara-Falevai, the founder and co-designer of Wantok Clothing, was named skill and drive to designer of the year. gain world Igara-Falevai and her business partner Henry Iyaro were in the spotlight last recognition. year for making the PNG Olympic team’s uniforms, but it was their Iyara fashion line that was a big hit with Pacific Runway, Australia’s most prestigious judges and audiences at Runway. platform for Pacific designers, based in The collection was judged to Sydney. be the most internationally The exposure means Iyara will soon be viable, commercially stocked in exclusive boutiques in Sydney and creatively. and Fiji. It was also a “Runway shows that Papua New Guinea has big hit at designers and models with the skill and drive to gain world recognition,” says Stella founder and editor Amanda Donigi.

84 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living fashion

On parade ... the Iyara collection from Wantok Clothing (first three photos from left); judges and award winners (above); Dru Douglas designs (three photos below).

As part of her prize, Igara-Falevai won a year- potential and that potential bred perfection.” history and tales of the present and a harbinger long mentorship and a week’s on site tuition at Iyara isn’t the only collection winning kudos of PNG possibility. the Raffles College of Design in Sydney. internationally. The Runway 2016 runner-up is She enthralled the audience and judges with “Our partnership with fashion educators Florence Jaukae-Kamel, aka Bilum Meri, who her wearable art creations, some of which are from Raffles College, as well as other regional is already world renowned for her exciting take now adorning the walls of the Gallery of Modern events such as Pacific Runway, is an exciting and interpretation of the classic bilum, the Art in Brisbane, while fashion-art doyennes in step forward for our designers and models,” ubiquitous bag of PNG culture. Australia and the Pacific have snapped others up. Donigi says. Jaukae-Kamel uses the traditional method Apart from the guest international collection “I couldn’t be happier with the outcome of of weaving to create garments that are not (a selection of garments by graduate designers Runway 2016. Everyone worked to their full just apparel; they are stories, walking tomes of of Raffles College) and a ‘city living’

January – February 2017 85 living fashion Glamour on the runway

Catwalk highlights ... designs by Seri Davis (above); Tabu Pelei Warupi (above middle and right); Jenny Dalton (below).

collection by sponsor usual mix of vibrant colour and traditional PNG Jacks of PNG, 11 other patterns on modern styles; New Zealand-based designers showcased fashion artisan Dru Douglas presented amazing their collections. structural pieces inspired by PNG culture, and Among them, PNG Jenny Dalton impressed with her contemporary fashion veteran Sarah depiction of island street wear. Todd showed her One of the three international judges at

86 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living fashion Glamour on the runway

A splash of colour ... designs by Florence Jaukae-Kamel (left and second left); Wandid Amini Korimbo (above middle and right); Sarah Todd (below).

Runway was Betsabeh Sohrabi, the highly respectful of their own culture the fashion program director of fashion marketing at designers are, and that they create in collaboration Raffles College. with local artists, craftsmen and other artistic She said: “There was so much makers to capture both their past and creativity, craftsmanship and ability at their future.” Runway 2016. I am awed by what I have learned, and, so inspired. I admire how

January – February 2017 87 living spotted in

in … oh ed io tt o p S Time

14,010km E Y and E E R C I O D N LI O MIST, E motion PNG economist Eli Direye has learnt the value of effective time management while living in the US. Kevin McQuillan reports.

iving and studying in the northwest of Highlands, he tells Paradise, “Ohio’s trees and the United States with people from all lakes make me feel at home”. over the globe has been a life-changing Born in Talu village of North Waghi District Lexperience for Eli Direye, who’s on an in Jiwaka Province in the Highlands, 18-month Fulbright Scholarship at Kent State Direye is on study leave from the University in Ohio. Bank of Papua New Guinea, where While it may seem an age away from his he analyses PNG’s monetary and home village in one of the remotest parts of the financial developments.

88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living spotted in Time and motion

The University of Papua New Guinea Kent State University drew worldwide economics graduate (2010) admits to culture attention in May, 1970, when the Ohio National shock when he arrived in the US last July. We have great potential Guard shot and killed four, unarmed students “The most life-changing aspect of culture in to boost the who were protesting against the Nixon the US to me is effective time management. government’s plans to extend the Vietnam War Strikingly, I have experienced the often-cited development of PNG into Cambodia. The killings are remembered phrase ‘time means money’. if we adopt the each May 4. “Indeed, it is a precious commodity whose attitude of valuing “There is a student body that leads series immeasurable value can be appreciated if you of activities such as silent march, candle fully utilise it wisely. I note in order for you to time as a lighting, the ringing of the Victory Bell, and survive in a competitive part of the developed scarce resource. there are speeches by distinguished speakers, regions of the world like the US, you cannot including family members and eyewitnesses,” misuse time.” says Direye. Reflecting on this in relation to PNG, Direye The prestigious US News&World Report feels that “we seriously need to transform Ohio is located in the Great Lakes region of the ranked the university in the top 100 in the US in our traditional mindsets of complacency US. Inhabitants are known as ‘buckeyes’, after 2015. It was ranked by the Carnegie Foundation towards time, which often makes us to be its buckeye trees. Summers are typically hot as in the top 100 public research universities less productive”. and humid throughout the state, while winters in the US and in the top 100 in community He says: “We are indispensable assets generally range from cool to cold. And, like parts engagement. for our country and have great potential of PNG, it is earthquake prone. Direye describes it as “an ideal place to study to boost the development of PNG if we adopt “I have plans to camp in the forest and fish at because the school is equipped with modern the attitude of valuing time as a scarce the lake during weekends and semester breaks,” facilities and situated in amazing surrounding resource.” says Direye. vegetation and geographical settings. The

90 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living spotted in Time and motion

environment is truly conducive for me to international Fulbright recipients and meet accomplish my study objective successfully. The prominent Americans in their chosen field. professors are very friendly and have an open- Being the pioneer Papua New Guinean door policy to assist students”. attending Kent State University, Direye Fulbright scholarship recipients are chosen for has two key aims. He wants to perform their academic merit and leadership potential. well academically as well as participate in They receive a tuition grant for their course work international student-organised activities to and a monthly stipend to cover living expenses. show case PNG culture. They also receive travel and healthcare benefits. “I really want to leave a legacy after I graduate Direye’s research focus is entitled Measuring and return home,” he says. the macroeconomic implications of fiscal “As a representative of my society and policy in Papua New Guinea. It is an area that country, I am excited to inform the world how he believes should complement the monetary beautiful PNG is as well as the challenges we policy research agenda of the Bank of PNG. face in our pursuit to modernise our society He has the support of Dr Jan Gottschalk, economically and socially.” senior economist at the International Monetary Living in Ohio also means spending a winter Fund, who is providing guidance on technical- living in snow. Is he prepared for that? analytical aspects of the study. “This will be my first time in life to see snow. A key feature of the Fulbright scholarship After hearing about the harsh experiences of scheme is the non-academic activities designed winter, I ordered my gear for the season. I look to ensure students network with fellow forward to this inaugural experience.”

Eli Direye … has an 18-month Fulbright scholarship to study at Kent State University in Ohio.

January – February 2017 91 living culture

A PIECE OF PNG: Tapa cloth WH AT IS IT? WHO MAKES IT? Tapa is literally beaten out of Tapa was traditionally nature – a traditional cloth the domain of made from the inner bark of women, who were paper mulberry or, sometimes, the custodians breadfruit trees. of the intellectual property associated WH ERE IS IT MADE? with tattoo and tapa Most commonly, tapa cloth designs as well as is associated with the Oro the principal bark cloth Province. The villages of manufacturers. the Maisin people in the Collingwood Bay area form HOW IS IT MADE? the epicentre of commercial The inner bark layer is peeled production. Their tapa from the trunks of harvested cloth has distinctive trees and alternately black and brick- soaked in water red designs. and beaten, incorporated What has really kept Tapa is also to gradually much traditional this product alive is the produced produce a thin costume and dress into adaption of tapa for everyday in the sheet. Strips church services. Oro tapa modern use – apart from islands of of tapa are designs are usually abstract, pieces that are suitable as Melanesia. often overlaid representing totemic plants framed wall hangings, one However, crosswise and or animals and presented in can today buy tapa made what is beaten again repeated geometric series into hats, purses, bags, other little known is to produce larger or patterns. The clan tapa adornment, and even tables. that the traditional and stronger pieces of designs mimic the same WH ERE CAN TAPA manufacturing of tapa cloth blank cloth to suit particular shapes and patterns used BE BOUGHT? end uses and designs. Tapa in the traditional tattoos was, and still is, practised in Tapa cloth in some form can beating is carried out using on people’s faces in the other parts of PNG. Bark cloth be found in most hotel gift a hardwood or stone tool to Collingwood Bay area. is made in certain Highlands shops, among the artifacts regions, such as by the Fasu flatten the fibres against a HOW WAS TAPA USED displayed outside major hotels and Foi people who reside smooth log or similar. TRADITIONALLY? and is sure to be for sale in the near Lake Kutubu. They utilise HOW IS IT In Oro tapa cloth was used as irregular craft markets that larger sheets as undecorated DECORATED? loincloths for men, called koefi, are held around Port Moresby, rain capes, predominantly Oro tapa is decorated using and short skirts for women, such as the one sometimes worn by women in times dyes made from plants and called embobi. Tapa was used held poolside at the Laguna of bad weather, as well as other natural materials, using as a material for clothing hotel. in traditional dances and a variety of designs – some and as an article of wealth Remember, as with any cloth, ceremonies. Tapa has also been being clan or family specific and prestige; it was used in it is best to keep your tapa found in other provinces such while others are general or lifecycle rituals such as bride clean and dry since it will be as Milne Bay and New Ireland, ‘trade’ designs. Other designs price payments, funerals and susceptible to mould or insect where other colours such as have a religious significance other compensation as well attack if left in any damp, yellow and green have been after the activities of the as in trade with neighbouring dark spot. used in the decoration, although Anglican church which groups. these are rarer nowadays. – JOHN BROOKSBANK

92 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living culture

hroughout most of the history of what is Shell money started to decline with the On The now Papua New Guinea, its inhabitants arrival of European powers, however. The mark literally shelled out money during became the official currency of German New Ttransactions. Guinea in 1884. Between 1894 and 1911 copper, The first currencies were – in common with silver and gold coins were issued specifically for many societies around the world – seashells, New Guinea, depicting birds of paradise. Few used to settle dowries, disputes and land survive, although fakes are common. A genuine money acquisitions, and for general barter. silver five-mark coin can now fetch upwards of Such currencies went under various names $US7000, while a modest one-pfennig piece such as diwara, tambu or tabu and varied from (one-hundredth of a mark) might fetch several PNG has had a place to place. In the Duke of York Islands, for hundred dollars. variety of currencies example, diwara was made from sea-snail shells, each threaded onto a cane a finger’s throughout its width apart. A length about two metres long (the width of outspread arms) contained 320 history. shells and formed the basic unit called a param. Between 1894 and 1911 Brian Johnston Ten param was an arip, and to create a tutana copper, silver and gold or money wheel the canes of 100 arip were coins were issued for New takes a look at the rolled into huge hoops containing an impressive evolution of PNG 320,000 shells. Guinea, depicting birds Shell money is particularly associated with of paradise. Few survive. money from the Tolai people of East New Britain and New Ireland. Men started accumulating shells from A genuine silver five- traditional shells their first initiation rites as the foundation mark coin can now fetch of a money wheel with which to attract a to contemporary bride. Shell money may still occasionally be upwards of $US7000. polymer. used in remote community markets, and is ceremoniously exchanged during special events such as weddings. A deceased Tolai chief’s tutana is cut up and distributed to guests at a funeral. World War 1 saw the Germans depart. In 1914 Shell currencies weren’t officially abolished the Australian occupying forces issued poorly until 1933, although tabu was recently printed notes (commonly called Rabaul Treasury reintroduced as semi-legal tender in East New notes) for five, 10, 20, 50 and 100 marks. Britain as an alternative to the kina, with which Only 29 are known to survive, and there’s just it can be exchanged or used to pay taxes or a single 100-mark note remaining, now in a court settlements. German museum.

94 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living culture PICTURE: DAVID KIRKLAND

Shell money … traditionally used to settle dowries, disputes, land acquisitions and for general barter.

By 1915 the Australian pound had become feature a palm-lined beach and a capital letter coins. The two-kina note was replaced by a coin the official currency. Like the British pound in ‘O’ followed by a serial number. Strangely, in 2008, for example, and one and two-toea those days, it was divided into 20 shillings, collectors are more interested in the fakes coins were abolished that same year. A 20-kina each shilling into 12 pence. Both Australian produced in Australia in 1944, which fetch up note was introduced in 1977, 50 kinas in 1988 currency and coins minted for the Territory of to 10 times the price of the more common and 100 kinas in 2005. New Guinea circulated together between 1929 originals. With the exception of commemorative notes, and 1945. The coins are much sought-after by The Australian pound continued circulating PNG has produced notes in polymer since collectors. Those minted in 1936 are the rarest, after the war, replaced by the decimal 1991. These plastic-derived notes were first since they bear the image of Edward VIII, who Australian dollar in 1966. On April 19, 1975, the developed in Australia in 1988 and last longer, abdicated after less than a year on the throne; kina replaced the dollar at par, using the same are more cost-effective and have additional most other colonial territories hadn’t got around colour scheme for its banknotes; the dollar security features. to depicting him on coinage. ceased to be legal tender at year’s end. The When paper money cased to be legal tender During World War 2, the Japanese issued name of the new currency was derived from the at the end of 2014, PNG became one of just a the Oceania pound in New Guinea and various word for pearl shell in the Tolai’s region’s Kuanua handful of countries to fully convert to polymer other Pacific islands. The four denominations language. The kina has remained since, though notes in the last of its interesting evolution in (half shilling, shilling, 10 shillings and one pound) there has been some tinkering with notes and money matters.

January – February 2017 95 living NATURE

They’re like ghosts, rarely seen by scientists since they were first documented early last century.

Scientists catch rare rodent A local villager in Bougainville has helped scientists bag a reclusive giant rat. Richard Andrews reports.

fter six years of trekking some small tissue samples taken climb up high and hand-capture dense rainforests, sitting for later DNA analysis. one of the giant rats dining in out earthquakes and Dr Lavery’s team worked with a tree nest. “Another rat was Ascaling volcanic slopes, Dr Jeffrey Noro, director of The caught lower down while we were Dr Tyrone Lavery and his team have Kainake Project, a community spotlighting one night.” finally bagged the rare Bougainville conservation group named after his Dr Lavery says the rodents giant rat – with the help of an agile home village on Bougainville. have strong jaws and teeth sharp young villager. The project identifies endangered enough to crack nuts and strip “Weighing over a kilogram, species and vulnerable ecosystems coconuts. “However, you can these rats are some of the most in order to designate conservation hold them under the chin to avoid spectacular rodents on Earth,” says areas and protect them from getting bitten.” the Australian Museum biologist. hunting, logging or other Despite their size and strength, “But they’re like ghosts, rarely seen environmental disruptions. rat numbers have decreased by scientists since they were first Kainake villagers have been dramatically in the past century. documented early last century.” trained to conduct biological Camera traps left in the forest Two species of the oversized surveys as part of the project and graphically show that the Kamare, rodent were captured on southern proved invaluable in tracking down as it’s known locally, is no match Bougainville, including one little- the rats. for the large numbers of feral cats. known type that is “data deficient,” Young people are also The expedition’s findings are the according to the International encouraged to join the project’s latest contribution to research Union for Conservation of Nature. conservation efforts and local started about 100 years ago by the “No scientist has really looked school holidays freed up an extra Reverend J.B. Poncelet from the at this particular species and source of enthusiastic rat catchers Catholic Mission at Buin, in described its ecology," says to support Dr Lavery’s team. the south of Bougainville Island. Dr Lavery, modestly avoiding the “One huge benefit of working Dr Lavery has carried on term ‘world first.’ with locals is that they’re more the tradition by focusing on The reclusive rats were measured, agile than I am,” he says. “A young endangered mammals throughout weighed and photographed, with man named Francis was able to Melanesia.

96 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living NATURE

Hunting party ... scientists and locals in search of the giant rat.

The Queensland biologist’s that would elsewhere be occupied previous expedition took him by animals such as monkeys or to Malaita, a biogeographically possums.” similar island to Bougainville, in Searching for bats and rats is the Solomon Archipelago. With no walk in the park. Expeditions its rich and diverse wildlife the involve lugging heavy equipment region has been dubbed ‘the up steep, slippery hillsides, Galapagos of the Western Pacific,’ tents flooded out by heavy rain, by the internationally acclaimed and more. conservationist, Tim Flannery. Dr Lavery’s first field trip to the “Loss of habitat because of Solomons in 2010 was a real test logging is endangering unique of his commitment. species,” says Dr Lavery. “Villagers “We had to sit tight through an are pushing conservation efforts earthquake, with aftershocks that to protect the animals for future lasted through the night and the generations and we’re working to next morning. That made it quite help them.” interesting. His next mission in the region is “But so little is known about to track down and capture other Melanesia’s mammals and so rarely seen creatures, including much work needs to be done. three species of monkey-faced That’s what keeps me going.” bats – a unique mammal with prehistoric lineage, which now faces extinction. "These bats are found nowhere else in the world,” says Dr Lavery. “They evolved in the Solomons and Bougainville to take on roles

January – February 2017 97 living food festival

The warm-up act is a fried chicken morsel, atop a rujak salad – a dish from West Java of fruit salad in a chili and palm sugar dressing that's sweet, spicy and crunchy. A celebration of food

Gabrielle Dunlevy samples the delights at the annual Ubud Food Festival in Indonesia.

ith each small plate of delicate, new tastes and food for thought. delectable food that appears Tonight, chef Reynaldo de Luna II has a small enth- before me at the bar, I’m getting audience seated around the bar, watching ralled Wan education that means I’ll on as he bounces from end to end, enthusing by the local never look at the spice rack in the same about his favourite ingredients. produce you way again. The warm-up act is a fried chicken morsel, would think he just Ubud ‘gastrobar’ Spice by Chris Salens is atop a rujak salad – a dish from West Java of stepped off the plane. hosting a special event, celebrating Indonesian fruit salad in a chili and palm sugar dressing The stars of tonight’s courses are Indonesian spices with a selection of canapes and that’s simul-taneously sweet, spicy and crunchy. staples: lemongrass, turmeric and nutmeg. complementary cocktails. With it comes a lemongrass-infused, vodka- Chef de Luna darts to the other end of the bar, It’s part of the Ubud Food Festival, an annual based cocktail to cool the palate. and the next plate appears – this time cubes event drawing foodies from around the region The Spanish-Mexican chef tells us he’s been of melt-in-the-mouth pork belly, on a vibrant into Bali’s cultural heartland for three days of in Indon-esia for four years, but he’s still so yellow swirl of aromatic turmeric sauce.

98 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living food festival

Festival moments ... plenty to eat, masterclasses and long-table dinners are all part of the annual Ubud Food Festival.

Finally comes the crescendo of the event and the dish I’ve most been looking forward to – a nutmeg sorbet, served with a jam made Visitors with the fruit of the spice, and topped with to Indonesia crunchy kinari nuts. will likely discover The three-day food festival returns this year jamu, traditional tonics from May 12-14, with festival founder Janet made of herbs and spices like turmeric DeNeefe planning to involve more producers that are taken for minor ailments like upset of Indonesia’s special ingredients, as well as stomachs. those who master them in the kitchen. De Luna has another handy use for the “We will be searching high and low in turmeric root – he rubs it on mosquito bites for Indonesia and the region for the food world’s instant relief. latest movers and shakers,” she says.

January – February 2017 99 living FOOD FESTIVAL A celebration of food

Past panel discussions have featured experts talking about how Indonesia, a nation of 250 million, can feed itself in a future with vanishing agricultural lands and climate change. DeNeefe says educational events on sustainability and the slow food movement will continue, as well as the lively food demonstrations and the program of cocktail parties, banquets, picnics and markets. I can’t wait to return, because no matter how much I learn about Indonesian food, there’s always something more to discover. Three days in Ubud is not enough to eat it all, but it’s certainly a wonderful entree.

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Bali weekly. See airniugini.com.pg.

On the menu ... delicacies of all sorts are served up during the three days of the festival.

NEED TO KNOW UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL May 12-14, (ubudfoodfestival.com). STAYING THERE Plataran Ubud (plataran.com) has four-star rooms set among sprawling gardens. The Firefly Bali Bamboo Eco Cottage (glamping.com), is a glamping experience set in the rice fields. ALSO Ubud is the wellness capital of Bali, so when you need a break from the festival, get pampered at one of many quality spas like Bali Botanica Day Spa (balibotanic.com), or try yoga at Yogabarn (theyogabarn.com).

100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Living Air Travel BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

on your face and give you more Comfort items for the plane space for your eyes to flutter during REM sleep, which means they’ll help you feel fresh and ready to go. so it stays snug. Once you’ve wireless Plantronics BackBeat Pros About PGK38; amazon.com. reached your destination, it easily have a sturdy, comfortable design deflates into a compact roll which and excellent battery life, with up to you can snap onto your suitcase or 24 hours of juice with Bluetooth and backpack handle. Choose from blue, noise cancelling on, and up to 60 red, grey or yellow. About PGK95; hours if used in wired mode. Bonus, travelrest.net. they also come with a snazzy carrying pouch. About PGK845; plantronics.com. Travel blanket Better quality than you’ll find in most business or even first cabins, this cashmere cabled blanket from Travel pillow Maison Cashmere will keep you When inflated, the banana-shaped Headphones Eye mask warm and make you feel pampered Travelrest Ultimate travel pillow no matter what class you’re flying. A good pair of noise-cancelling The best thing about the tucks in above your shoulder and Available in a selection of subdued headphones will help you zone lightweight, contoured Nidra Deep crosses your body. It clips at one colours and looks terrific when used out on any plane trip, no matter Rest eye mask has to be the deep end into a plane or car seatbelt as a scarf . From about PGK688, how many screaming babies are eye cups that let you blink freely. holder, and has a string on the other maisoncashmere.com. to pull over your headrest surrounding you. The Bluetooth Like a soft pair of goggles, they rest

Incorporating the Pacific Islands Investment Seminar One strategic location. 7 & 8 September 2017 • Shangri-La Hotel, The Rocks, Sydney, Australia www.pnginvestmentconference.com • #pngconference

102 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Living Air Travel

not pack this grooming kit by enough to keep you comfy all flight with optional flavor infuser and Jack Black (yep, the actor), which long. About PGK160; acorn.com. filter add-ons. From about PGK38; fits easily into your carry-on? It cleanbottle.com. includes all-organic, fragrance 9.7-inch iPad Pro and colourant-free facial cleanser Travelling with an iPad not only and moisturiser with SPF 20, as means you’ll be in complete control well as two-in-one shampoo and of your in-flight entertainment, but conditioner and hair gel. About also that you can leave your laptop, PGK76; bergdorfgoodman.com. camera, and even phone at home. Water bottle This next generation mid-size iPad Slipper socks Taking an empty water bottle is small, slick and superfast, with These wool-blend Acorn that you get filled once you’re on an improved display and amazing slipper socks are so board means you can avoid buying camera and video capability. comfortable you environmentally unfriendly bottles Sweat pants About PGK2053; apple.com. won’t want to or constantly asking for the teeny Slim cut with stylish white-zippered take them off plastic cups as you fly. Square by side pockets, you can wear once you touch down. They have Clean Bottle is a fantastic option – these Calvin Klein track pants in a memory-foam layer for extra as the name suggests it’s square so any airport or lounge with pride, cushioning, and leather sidewalls it can’t roll off your tray table, and meaning you won’t have to get and outsoles that are durable both the top and bottom come off changed once you get on the plane. enough to wear at a campsite so you can hand wash it easily. The elasticated waist ensures you’ll Jack Black grooming kit (they were originally designed for It’s BPA-free, comes in a variety stay super comfortable. About Sometimes you just need a little camping), but are soft and warm of colours and in stainless steel, PGK605; calvinklein.com. extra TLC on a long flight. So why

Incorporating the Pacific Islands Investment Seminar

EVENT PARTNERS Unlimited business opportunities. 7 & 8 September 2017 • Shangri-La Hotel, The Rocks, Sydney, Australia www.pnginvestmentconference.com • #pngconference

January – February 2017 103 Living gadgets BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI Gadgets and travel accessories

Paperback notebook Leather-bound travel journals are beautiful, sure, but if you’re wanting to travel light this Guide to Getting Lost travel diary may be just the ticket. With a retro charm, along with 96 lined and plain pages to record your adventures on, it’s a place where you can keep your musings, diary entries and holiday snaps all in one place. About PGK39; gifts.co.uk.

Dirty duds carrier So you don’t want to pay exorbitant hotel dry- Travel scooter cleaning prices, but you also don’t want your dirty For those travels close to home, the electric- duds to odorise your suitcase, either. Enter the powered Emicro One scooter might become Genius Pack Carry-On Spinner suitcase. While it your go-to runabout. It’s motion controlled, doesn’t do your laundry for you, it does compress meaning it knows when you’re moving before it to take up less room, expelling air through a its 500-watt motor kicks in to propel it up to Lomo cinecam valve integrated into one compartment of the 25kmh. The battery takes one hour to recharge, Give your holiday home movies a hint of nostalgia luggage. Once you’re home, all you have to do it weighs only 7.5 kilograms, and there are three with Lomo’s analogue film camera, the Lomokino is pull the dirty laundry bag compartment out modes: eco for a leisurely pace, standard, and Movie Maker. Using 35mm film, a hand-crank and throw it directly in the wash. About PGK817; sport for when you’re hurrying. About PGK3626; and black leather casing, it lets you create artistic geniuspack.com. microscooters.com.au. silent films. About PGK222; amazon.com.

104 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Living gadgets

Train reaction Anyone who’s wheeled multiple suitcases around an airport or city knows how painful it can be – both emotionally and physically. The Train Reaction, which is basically a small flat rubber ladder with ends that snap shut, piggybacks your bags by strapping their handles together so they become one unit. From about PGK48; trainreaction.com.

Smart umbrella A good umbrella (and by good we mean sturdy and able to properly protect you from the elements) is Versatile hoodie a non-negotiable when travelling. Designed by American TV host Australian brand Blunt has a range (Travel Channel, National Geographic of tough, compact options, including and more) and expert traveller Zane the XS Metro + UV, which blocks Lamprey, the Adv3nture Hoodie 99.99 per cent of sunlight and more Savvy soap includes nine pockets for items like than 99 per cent of ultra-violet Ultra-portable, solid, natural and spill-proof, OneSoap hair and body wash your passport, sunnies and pen, light. It also has a water repellent can travel with you wherever you go. Just attach the suction cap to the wall including a neoprene pocket for a coating, so you can shake it dry of your hotel shower, turn it, twist it out a little, use it, then when you’re smartphone or a cool beverage. in seconds before slipping it back done pull it off the wall using the flap. Because it’s solid, you can carry it on There are underarm vents and into your suitcase. About PGK264; board and it won’t spill into your bag. Developed by a German pharmacist foldable hand warmers, and the bluntumbrellas.com.au. and doctor, OneSoap uses activated carbon to give it its glossy black colour, whole thing can be converted into and oils to give it its juicy lime smell. About PGK35; kickstarter.com. a travel pillow. Comes in a variety of colours, including grey with a red zipper, or black with a blue zipper. From about PGK250, kickstarter.com.

Clever camera Beach bats Proof that appearances can be deceiving, the retro-look Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II camera is actually a cutting-edge mirrorless camera with Take your beach paddle ball game top-performing image stabilisation, HD video capability, speed, touch-screen to the next level with this deluxe capabilities, and a wide array of add-on lenses to fit the compact body. Brazilian bat-and-ball set by An easy-to-use camera, with loads of customisable settings. Fitness watch Frescobol, handmade from Brazilian About PGK2660; olympus.com. With GPS and sleep tracking, heart- hardwood and polished to a lovely rate monitoring and music all in shiny finish. With a variety of one, the TomTom Spark is great for handle colours, it’s virtually anyone who wants to keep track of guaranteed to get you some extra their activity levels when they’re on attention next time you’re by the road. It also uses Bluetooth to the sea. About PGK582 for two; sync to wireless earphones. About frescobolcarioca.com. PGK634; tomtom.com/spark.

January – February 2017 105 Living Books BY GREG CLARKE

Fear (Text), by Dirk Kurbjuweit The Jasmine Sari (Troubador), by Among the Lemon Trees (Pan Philip Tucker Macmillan), by Nadia Marks This is the first time Dirk Kurbjuweit, an acclaimed writer and journalist from Germany, This fast paced thriller by a former counter- Nadia Marks was born in Cyprus, grew up in has been published in English. terrorism officer explores terrorism, many London and became a creative director on a This psychological thriller, a bestseller in of its complexities and some of the frailties of number of leading British women’s magazines. Germany, has been described as unsettling. those who carry it out. In this novel she has created Anna, a woman Randolph Tiefenthaler appears to have it all. London anti-terror cop Alex Cadman is who thought her marriage as solid as the Happily married with two children, he is sent to Bangladesh to share his experience ancient olive and lemon groves in Greece, a father, husband and citizen. with local police officers. He thinks his days where this story is set. But Randolph’s father has just been of working on actual terrorist investigations Yet, a revelation from Anna’s husband arrested for the murder of Dieter Tiberius, are long gone but during protests about just before their wedding anniversary shakes the basement tenant who lived in the flat anti-Muslim cartoons, Dhaka becomes an her world. Uncertain of the future, Anna below the Tiefenthaler family. increasingly tense and dangerous place to be. takes up an offer from her widowed father Tiberius had recently accused Randolph Cadman seeks haven in the Foreigners’ to spend the summer on the small Aegean and his wife of child abuse. With Randolph Club, a place detached from the majority island of his birth. unwilling to defend his family, it seems his of the local population, However, in this There, the chance discovery of letters in father was the one to act, killing Tiberius in ultimately toxic place he meets Jasmina, her aunt’s house unleashes family secrets an act of revenge. As we gain insight into the Bangladeshi policewoman who beguiles that have been hidden for 60 years. Randolph’s inner workings and his wavering him with charm and baffles him with These paper treasures partly document conscience, Dieter’s accusations may have forthright politics. a tumultuous family history, beginning in triggered a crisis that was waiting to happen. And in the luxurious club Cadman finds Greece at the beginning of the 20th century Some people may consider Fear a himself embroiled in an investigation. Can he and ending in Naples at the close of World penetrating analysis of class politics and identify the terrorists and their plot before War 2. middle-class privilege in modern society. tragedy strikes again? While confronting the family truths, Anna Indeed, Kurbjuweit may inspire readers to The Jasmine Sari is Tucker’s second novel; begins to understand that if she is ever to have a good think about family and society, his first novel, An Englishman in Terror, was heal the present, she must first understand violence and fear, middle-class privilege published in 2013. the past. and the rule of law.

106 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Living movies By GREG CLARKE

Resident Evil: The Final Chapter Silence Lion This science fiction/action-horror film franchise It has reportedly been a long-held ambition of Adapted from the novel A Long Way Home must have planeloads of followers, for this is Martin Scorsese to direct Silence, a dramatic by Saroo Brierly, this true story opens with the sixth (and final) movie. adaptation of Japanese writer Shusaku five-year-old Saroo alone and travelling The movies star Milla Jovovich, Ali Larter, Endo’s much-analysed novel about 17th- on the wrong train away from his home in Ruby Rose and South Korean actor, model century Jesuits who risked their lives to bring northern India. and singer, Lee Joon-gi. Christianity to Japan. Saroo ends up thousands of miles away in In this film Jovovich – a Ukrainian-born In 1640 a young, idealistic Portuguese chaotic and mesmerising Kolkata. Somehow cover girl, singer and actor – plays Alice priest, Sebastian Rodrigues, sets sail for he survives living on the streets, dodges all (pictured), a secret agent who joins forces Japan determined to help the brutally sorts of terror, and ends up in an orphanage. with old friends, and an unlikely ally, in oppressed Christians there. But undertaking From there an Australian couple adopts him. a battle with mutant monsters and undead God’s work is not the sole reason for While growing up in the Australian state hordes. Rodrigues’ quest. of Tasmania, Saroo finds safety and love. He This, Alice’s most difficult adventure, is The priest is also desperate to discover the buries his past and his hope of ever finding complicated by betrayal and Alice and her truth about his missing former mentor, a man his lost birth mother and his brother so as not friends’ fight to save humanity may not go who is rumoured to have renounced his faith to hurt his adoptive parents’ feelings. according to the plan, expectations, or even under torture. Then as a young adult, Saroo meets some the script fans of the Resident Evil series may As Rodrigues’ journey takes him deeper into fellow Indians who reawaken his secret be expecting. Japan and then into the hands of those who yearnings. With a small store of memories, would crush his faith, he finds himself forced and the help of some newly developed to make an impossible choice: whether to satellite-imaging technology, Saroo returns abandon his fellow Christians or his God. to India – in the land of a billion people he Andrew Garfield, Peter Parker in The plans to search out his lost family. Amazing Spider-man, plays Rodrigues. Dev Patel (pictured) from Slumdog Silence also stars Liam Neeson (pictured) Millionaire plays the adult Saroo. Lion also and Adam Driver, who plays Kylo Ren in stars Nicole Kidman (Saroo’s Australian some of the Star Wars movies. mother) and Indian actor and model Priyanka Bose.

Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our reviewed movies. For screening dates and session times see paradisecinemaspng.com.

108 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

strictly business from www.businessadvantagepng.com Sweet success looms for PNG cocoa An international delegation of high-end cocoa buyers has toured PNG, liking what they see. Ben Packham reports.

alifornian chocolate maker Brad The group is in PNG with the Pacific Kintzer plunges his hands into a box Horticultural and Agricultural Market Access of half-fermented cocoa beans, Program; an Australian Government initiative Cgroping around in the hot, sticky to help Pacific nations maximise their export mess. There’s a smell in the air that’s thick opportunities. and sweet, with just a hint of vinegar. PNG cocoa sells at about market price. He doesn’t need to have his hands in there; But the group says it’s comparable to he just wants to get closer to the beans. Madagascan cocoa, which commands a He wants to see and experience everything premium of $US800–$900 a tonne. about the cocoa that he’ll take home to “Right now I would say that PNG cocoa has his San Francisco factory to transform into the potential to be some of best cocoa in luxury, single-origin chocolate. the world, hands down,” Kintzer says. Kintzer is on Papua New Guinea’s Karkar Island, about 30 kilometres offshore from Madang Province, with a group of international cocoa buyers searching for PNG cocoa has the reliable supplies of top-quality beans. potential to be some of The cocoa trees here grow under slender best cocoa in the world, coconut palms, set against the blue–green waters of the Bismark Sea. hands down. Welshman Martyn O’Dare rushes about trying to photograph the scene, which seems to provide the perfect marketing image for his new business – Islands Chocolate and Cocoa. “It tends to have a lot of note of cherries, But the view is too vast and the coconut of almonds, of a lot of different sour tropical trees too tall to capture everything in a single fruit notes. It’s really remarkable the diversity frame. (of flavour) in PNG as well.” Also on the tour are Belgian cocoa buyer Bours, whose company Le Cercle du Cacao Mathieu Bours and his client Raoul Boulanger, sources beans for top European chocolate an award-winning French chocolate maker. makers, is also impressed.

110 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business cocoa

“We’ve had cocoa with nuts; we’ve had cocoa with really sour fruits; we’ve had cocoa with orange, which is something I’ve never had before,” he says of the flavours found in PNG cocoa. “We’ve had cooked fruits, like cooked pear – it’s really, really good.” Cocoa is one of PNG’s most important cash crops, supporting an estimated 500,000 families. Production was devastated by the arrival of cocoa pod borer in East New Britain in 2006. It spread around the country in subsequent years and destroyed 90 per cent of the cocoa crop in some areas. But the arrival of new cocoa clones has helped farmers get back on their feet. Concerns remain among some specialty buyers about ‘smoky’ or ‘hammy’ flavours Buyers and farmers ... the international delegation meets with cocoa that are often associated with PNG beans, growers at Transgogol in Madang province. caused by leaky wood-fired dryers or poorly managed fermentation. the whole potential here and with a bit of Kintzer says. “And I can do that because But the group is confident that by working work that potential will become real and we my consumer is happy to pay more for their directly with farmers, exporters and the can have a great cocoa in the end.” chocolate bar.” PNG Cocoa Board, it can source consistently The buyer group visits Karkar Island’s Consumers of single-origin chocolate are high-quality PNG beans. historic plantations, and meets smallholder like wine connoisseurs, he says. They’re “They seem really open-minded and open farmers in Madang, Morobe and Bougainville. looking for fine flavours that have their ➤ to discovering new ways of doing the cocoa,” Morobe Province’s Lower Watut Bours says. Cooperative has already earned a reputation The stories in our ‘Strictly for producing high-quality cocoa beans; “And that will help us to work together Business’ section were towards a great cocoa, because they have chocolate made from the cooperative’s cocoa won a coveted award at last year’s Salon du first published in PNG’s Chocolat in Paris. online business magazine, But its farmers are keen to learn everything businessadvantagepng.com they can from the group so they can produce and are re-published by cocoa to suit the buyers’ requirements. arrangement with Business “What we really want is to work with the chocolate makers,” Lower Watut Cooperative Advantage International. manager Sofin Matakhu says. “They can help us to improve our quality so we can meet their market. And if they can buy cocoa from us that would really help our farmers.” For the growers, it often means more work. They need to minimise or eliminate the use of chemicals, and pay closer attention to the fermenting and drying processes. But there’s a clear reward for that extra effort. Kintzer’s Tcho brand chocolate sells for $US15 for 100 grams. His clients include Silicon Valley tech giant Google, which gives the bars to its workers as treats. “I’m happy to pay a much higher price In hand ... freshly opened cocoa. for cocoa as long as the quality is great,”

January – February 2017 111 strictly business cocoa

Cocoa quest ... Brad Kintz getting his hands dirty (above); members of the international delegation Raoul Boulanger, Mathieu Bours and Kintz (right). origin in the genetics of the crop, But it’s not only about taste. “The speciality chocolate buyer “We all know about cocoa the soil where it is grown, and Consumers also want to feel – most of what drives them is from South America, Venezuela, the way in which it is farmed and a connection to the people who a curiosity,” Kintzer says. “It’s Dominican Republic, Peru. But processed. grow the cocoa. a curiosity about finding new we don’t know much about Far flavours, and learning about Eastern cocoa; from here, the chocolate in ways that they never Solomon Islands, and Vanuatu. knew about; whether that be the Papua New Guinea has such flavour profiles or the stories of a potential. It’s a big grower and where the cocoa is coming from, can get bigger.” it’s all part of the experience.” The buyers arrange for cocoa samples to be sent to them, to make test batches of single- origin chocolate from each of the locations they visit. It’s a Cocoa is one process that will help to guide of PNG’s most their ongoing discussions with growers. important cash Not all PNG cocoa farmers crops, supporting will be able to produce the an estimated premium beans demanded by these high-end buyers. But 500,000 families. it’s hoped that by building the country’s reputation as a fine flavour cocoa producer, it will lift returns for PNG cocoa farms across the board. O’Dare, who’s been making “We are the trend setters,” chocolate for 35 years, is banking Bours says. “If you have these on this instinct. luxury brands branding PNG as “In my new company, we will fine cocoa, full of flavour, you’ll be marketing PNG cocoa as have this mass market which will the new flavour on the block,” try to follow and hopefully buy he says. volumes of the cocoa.” n

112 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business oceans Melanesian oceans valued at PGK176 trillion A World Wildlife Fund report into the seas around Melanesia has calculated that its gross marine product equals the combined economies of Fiji and the Solomon Islands. David James reports.

elanesia’s ocean The WWF assesses the assets: productive coastlines “The good news is that rapid assets are worth a economic value by aggregating (focused on tourism) and carbon action on a number of key issues minimum $US548 the primary assets of the ocean: absorption. will deliver benefits for ocean Mbillion (PGK1.736 marine fisheries, mangroves, The report estimates that the systems and the people who trillion), according to the World coral reefs and seagrass. It annual ‘gross marine product’ depend on them. Wildlife Fund (WWF). then adds adjacent or ancillary of the Melanesian region “Some of the benefits could be (an equivalent of a country’s reinstated in a relatively short annual gross domestic product) period of time.” is worth at least $US5.4 billion The report lists essential (PGK17.1 billion). actions to protect the ocean This makes it the third-largest assets. They include creating ‘economy’ in the region. roadmaps and spatial planning “The ocean can be seen as and eco-system based a ‘shared wealth fund’, with approaches to resource-based the principal capital of the management. Melanesian region being eroded The report says the actual at a rate that undermines the value may be considerably higher ocean’s value for current and than indicated by the economic future generations,’’ the report statistics. It says fishing helps warns. people maintain a stable source “It is time to reset the agenda of income independent of market before this ocean capital base uncertainty, and “is an important collapses,” the report says. factor in social cohesion”.

114 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business oceans

It notes that fishing requires “While the albacore stock is very little initial investment and currently biologically healthy, training and it cannot easily be if recent effort levels are substituted by other sources of maintained the size of the stock income or food. will continue to decline as will “The value that local catch rates.” communities attribute to money, The ADB report says declining and its function in life, differs catch rates reduce the viability widely from common economic of domestic fleets, and the ability assumptions. of Pacific Island countries to levy “For example, island societies access fees on foreign vessels. assign value to items that lack “If vessels can easily shift exchange equivalents, or relative their fishing activity elsewhere, prices, and which therefore are or the rights created are freely difficult to include in a classical available to any vessel that seeks economic evaluation.” them, the system will fail,” the report says. Tuna warning It argues that to make a rights Meanwhile, a recent report by based system work there needs the Asian Development Bank Of this, around 1.6 million forced Pacific Island vessels to to be “a high level of regional (ADB) says catch rates of some metric tonnes, worth $US3.1 tie up for extended periods, or to cooperation and shared policy varieties of tuna would have to fall billion (PGK9.8 billion), was exit the fishery. development”. n by over half to remain sustainable. taken in exclusive economic The report adds that increasing zones (EEZs) of the Pacific productivity in the fisheries sector Island Forum Fisheries Agency “could help boost jobs” in PNG. (FFA) members. According to the ADB, the One area of particular concern annual tuna fisheries catch in the is albacore, a type of tuna. “For a western and central Pacific Ocean number of years, Pacific fisheries averaged 2.7 million metric tons, ministers have called for urgent valued at $US6.1 billion (PGK19.3 action to address the depletion of billion) over 2011–15. the South Pacific albacore stock, which makes up around 55–60 per cent of the catch taken in the southern long line fishery,” the report says. Fishing requires “Despite efforts to implement tighter management through very little initial the Western and Central investment and Pacific Fisheries Commission training and it (WPCFC), efforts in the southern longline fishery has cannot easily be continued to grow, depleting substituted by stocks of albacore tuna such that catch rates are often below other sources of economically viable levels for income or food. many pacific island domestic vessels. “Since 2011, persistently low catch rates have resulted in poor economic conditions for the southern longline fishery and

January – February 2017 115 strictly business Company profile

People power

riginally set up in 1989 for the people company, NCS Holdings. He says there will Anitua is the largest of Lihir Island, in New Ireland, to be no immediate change of direction. and most successful participate in the Lihir Gold project, “We are still focused on achieving the OAnitua’s portfolio includes 16 ‘Lihir Destiny’, of being non-reliant on mining company in PNG that is subsidiaries and employs 3500 people in 30 activities on Lihir, to ensure the future of locations in PNG and Australia. all Lihirians.” wholly owned by local In doing so, it has become an exemplary While the ROI (rate of return) is a key people. Kevin McQuillan company in managing tribal complexities. indicator of the company’s performance, Its founding CEO, Colin Vale, ran Anitua business excellence principles play a large meets the new chief until late last year, “taking it from a bunch of part in Anitua’s planning process, he says. companies all working individually, with no “As a group, we keep a close watch on cash executive officer, John synergies or group direction, to what is now flow, margins, profitability – delivering value Gethin-Jones. considered the most successful landowner to our shareholders.” company in PNG”, says new CEO, John With a finance and investment background, Gethin-Jones. Gethin-Jones will focus on ROI as he Gethin-Jones was, for the past five years, reviews the financials of current companies the managing director of Anitua’s largest within the group and potential business subsidiary, catering and camp management opportunities.

116 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business Company profile

The board of Anitua is made up of one representative from each of the six main clans on Lihir Island. “We consistently review our market place, our competitive environment and our own competencies. We use a number of matrixes to assess new business opportunities and determine top priority opportunities. “Most importantly, we constantly review our plans, reviewing the external environment and amending our strategic plans to suit.” The board of Anitua is made up of one representative from each of the six main clans on Lihir Island. It is an active board, says Gethin-Jones. “They are involved in assessing new business opportunities and reviewing current businesses.”

On the front line ... an Anitua concreting gang at work (left); the NCS team at Lihir Island (above). Our senior managers are ourselves on. Our senior managers are training, complemented by externally all culturally sensitive all culturally sensitive and experienced provided training programs.” and experienced in managing and delivering on landowner A founding member of the BCFW (Business expectations. Coalition for Women), Anitua has used its in managing and “Colin Vale is exceptional in his ability ‘Women in Leadership’ training program delivering on landowner to work well with landowners, and it is to develop staff to positions such as group expectations. something that I hope to be able to replicate,” HR manager. he says. Gethin-Jones regards other landowner “The other area in which we probably lead groups and multi-nationals as competitors. the country in, is our success at partnering “Being a landowner company doesn’t affect with other landowner groups on commercial the way in which we view our competitors. terms. NCS, our camp and catering We respect them and ensure we know our Anitua has three-year strategic and company, has developed a number of highly competitors as well as we can, with a view business improvement plans for each of its successful JVs (joint ventures) with small to obtaining our own competitive advantages 16 businesses, all sitting under a landowner companies, enabling them in each of our companies.” master three-year strategic plan to participate in local resource Gethin-Jones admits the downturn in for the group. projects. the PNG economy, in particular the Gethin-Jones admits “We share our expertise to resources sector, has made things tougher managing landowners and benefit landowner groups across for the group. their expectations can the country, including at Ramu “We have had to focus on costs and cash sometimes be ‘tricky’. Nickel and Hidden Valley. flow. I find that hard times sometimes bring “However, it is something “It sounds cliched, but staff out the best in an organisation. You have that we, as a group, pride really are our most important to be more creative, be disruptive in your asset,” Gethin-Jones says. thinking and look for new niches, look for Fifty per cent of new business opportunities. staff at NCS “We have been heavily reliant on contracts are women, with resources companies, but we have who receive strategies in play to ensure that our reliance Anitua CEO ... John extensive on the resources sector is not as strong in Gethin- in-house the medium to longer term. We have a ➤ Jones.

January – February 2017 117 strictly business Company profile People power focus on some new industries, which have high-growth opportunities. “The next stage of development will see Anitua enter new market segments,” he says. “We will still be heavily involved in providing a range of services to new resource projects, such as Frieda River and Wafi, and to continue to grow the group and achieve the ‘Lihir Destiny’ of self-reliance before mine closure. “We are also looking closely at the opportunities on Bougainville. A number of our companies have already been working there and we feel that there are definitely synergies with being involved there on a greater scale.” Gethin-Jones believes the PNG government needs to focus on non-resource sectors, to help grow sectors such as tourism and Of the land ... Anitua farm employees. agriculture, and to focus on exporting goods that aren’t from the resources sector. n

118 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business finance

Credit given, where it’s due

apua New Guinea has risen 14 places they decline a loan because of that, but with members and our software providers.” in the World Bank’s annual Ease of anecdotally we know our members avoid Mackinlay says the bureau has more than Doing Business report. a lot of issues when they don’t take on 290,000 consumer records and 21,000 P The report has singled out a new customers who have a poor credit history. company records. private credit bureau as having improved “We do have an accurate measurement Mackinlay was seconded to the Bureau the credit information system in PNG. of how much our members have recovered after retiring as a school principal, having Bruce Mackinlay, managing director of through listing their defaulters on the taught for 40 years in PNG. the Credit & Data Bureau, says that the database – it’s now over PGK203 million He says the availability of credit histories organisation is improving the country’s since we commenced.” is making for much greater transparency and transparency and accountability. Mackinlay says the bureau’s credit accountability in financial dealings. Mackinlay says the number of transactions reporting at the moment is only on defaults “If you are a company or an individual with being covered by the bureau has grown or failed payments, but there is an intention a poor credit history then life is difficult and sharply. “We had a quiet start: 2009 was our to expand. your records are going to reflect that. If you first full year, and in that year we did about “We haven’t got to the stage where we are a company that has never had an issue 4300 transactions. Now we are averaging have moved into positive reporting: details and you are a borrower, it is a positive. If about 16,000 a month. where people are paying off their loans with there is no adverse information that makes it “It is a bit hard to estimate how our no problems at all. a lot easier for the borrower.” n members (PNG’s lenders, such as banks) “That is probably going to happen in the —KEVIN McQUILLAN benefit from the credit history check when next 12 to 18 months. We will be working

120 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Brain gym quiz, puzzles, crossword DoubleTake Sudoku Tackle either set of these clues – you can even Fill the grid so that every column, every row and mix and match them, because the solutions are every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. the same for both sets Rating:

CRYPTIC CLUES DOWN STRAIGHT CLUES DOWN 1. Discipline lost in follower of 1. Apostle (8) ACROSS doctrines (8) ACROSS 2. Serves of ice cream (6) 1. Depict in words how Ed turned 2. Shovels news stories? (6) 1. Give account of (8) 3. Relaxes (5) on writer (8) 3. Pauses give musicians a 6. Swift punch (3) 4. Unenthusiastic (5) 6. Shot in Punjab (3) break (5) 7. London/Edinburgh rail express, 5. Edgy, ill at ... (4) 7. Highlander? Most got mixed up 4. Offhand around sable (5) Flying ... (8) 9. Keepsakes (8) in scan (8) 5. Alleviate the vowels for 8. Diamond or ruby (3) 11. Prosecute (3) 8. Jewel that can create green referee (4) 10. Dead ends (8) 12. Intergalactic (6) eyed monster, at first (3) 9. Memo sent out with reminders 13. Personal reminiscence (8) 14. Skin sensor (5) 10. Naughty child and donkeys in of the past (8) 16. Actor, ... Wallach (3) 15. The Suez ... (5) blind alleys (8) 11. A litigious woman? (3) 18. Broadcast (8) 17. Untruthful person (4) 13. Rambling tale about one 12. Head of state in comic? That’s 19. Head of wheat (3) cadet (8) great! (6) 20. Ponders (8) 16. Prophet known as eel? I say! 14. Courage shown when dentist (3) hits one (5) 18. Send out tin trams (8) 15. Is Al able to make waterway? 19. Sensitivity to music in your (5) heart (3) 17. Heard lyre has stories to tell (4) 20. Thinks calmly about what a mirror does (8)

122 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine brain gym puzzles

Create as many words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once Wheel Words only but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters. 12 Good 20 Very Good 24+ Excellent

The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION?

1. In which province of Papua 11. What is the name of the New Guinea would you find active volcano on Vanuatu’s Tanna Lake Murray? Island? Wheel2. Who W isords PNG’s PX Governor-General? 0007 12. The 2018 Winter Olympics will be in Pyeongchang in South © Lo3. Whatvatts is Puzzles a kundu? Korea. Name two other east Solution:4. Which city is further north: Asian cities to have hosted AcreLae,, CaMadangfe, Care or Rabaul?, Case, Face, Ftheare Games., Fear, Fire, Race, Rice, Rife, Rise, Safe, Sear, Serf, Sire, Afire5. What, Arise does, F theacer acronym, Farce ‘FSM’, Icier , 13.Raise Which, Sa numberfer, Scare is regarded, Ser asif , Scarce. 9-letterstand for?word: SACRIFICE. the luckiest in Chinese culture? 6. What is the capital of Tahiti? 14. What is Sina Weibo? 7. Adobo is the most popular dish 15. Where in the world would you in which country? What is it? find this iconic hotel (pictured)? 8. Why is Shibuya Crossing best known? 9. Where are you if you’re landing at the airport coded ‘DPS’? 10. Australian singer Dami Im was a big hit at the 2016 Eurovision song contest. Where was she born?

January – February 2017 123 brain gym solutions

Solutions

Wheel Words Solution: Acre, Cafe, Care, Case, Face, Fare, Fear, Fire, Race, Rice, Rife, Rise, Safe, Sear, Serf, Sire, Afire, Arise, Facer, Farce, Icier, Raise, Safer, Scare, Serif, Scarce. 9-letter word: SACRIFICE The Paradise quiz answers 1. Western Province. 2. Sir Michael Ogio. 3. A traditional PNG drum. 4. Rabaul. 5. Federated States of Micronesia. (Air Niugini has started flying there.) 6. Papeete. 7. Philippines. Pork or chicken in a sauce that includes vinegar, garlic, bay leaf, peppercorns and soy sauce. 8. The Tokyo intersection is said to be the busiest in the world. 9. Denpasar (Bali) in Indonesia. 10. South Korea. 11. Mount Yasur. 12. Sapporo (1972) and Nagano (1998) in Japan. 13. Eight. 14. One of the biggest social media platforms in China. 15. Singapore. It’s the Marina Bay Sands Hotel.

124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Arrivals Lounge Papua New Guinea visitor guide Out and about A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call. HEALTH Serious medical conditions typically require treatment outside the country. Travellers should ensure they have adequate health cover (the cost of medical evacuation alone can reach $US30,000). Visitors should also note that malaria is prevalent in PNG and there have been cases of measles and tuberculosis in some parts of the country. MONEY PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) have branches at Port Moresby’s international airport. ATMs are located around Port Moresby, Lae and other urban centres. PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND SAFETY is to buy a local SIM card and Car hire: Deal with one of the CLIMATE While the situation is not as bad pre-paid credit (including data international names and ask them With the exception of the Highlands, as portrayed by some international packs for smartphones). to provide a driver (around PGK400 PNG has a warm tropical climate. media, you should always take per day). With the poor state of The wet season in Port Moresby is It is much cheaper to make precautions, especially at night. roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/ from December to April. international calls from PNG than SUVs are recommended. vice versa. TIME ZONE COMMUNICATIONS Airport transfers: For arrival/ PNG has a single time zone, Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming Internet: Web access in Port departure in Port Moresby, any of 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT. more common at hotels, and Moresby has improved immensely the hotels listed in this guide will is also available at Jacksons EATING, DRINKING, in recent years. Although it provide a complimentary transfer. remains costly, all the Port International Airport. SOCIALISING IN Moresby hotels listed in this guide ELECTRICITY Domestic flights: Travelling PORT MORESBY provide a fast-speed internet within PNG often means taking The current in PNG is 240V AC service. In other urban centres, an internal flight (for instance, Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs. you may still be relying on dial-up. you cannot drive between Port ritziest hotel has several places For those staying longer, wireless GETTING AROUND Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini to eat. If you’re after fine dining, internet, via a USB modem is offers passengers the chance Bacchus is the place to go. For As a general rule in PNG, you need to book (and check in) online but something more casual, go available, although download to plan your travel carefully. speeds can vary. make sure you print out a copy of poolside, where Deli KC’s serves Taxis: Recommended firms are your receipt to show at the check- antipasto, salads, sandwiches, Phone: International mobile Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet in counter. Aircraft and helicopter milkshakes, espresso and a phone roaming is possible in PNG (7220 7000). charter services are available for limited Italian menu for dinner. but it is costly. A cheaper option travel to remote locations. The Poolside Bar should not ➤

126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

be missed for its garlic prawns. restaurants in Port Moresby with Fusion: This is one of the newer is tucked away in a garden The Vue Restaurant, which has a gluten-free choices. The hotel restaurants in the city and always oasis compound in Five Mile. buffet each morning and evening, also has fine dining at the Rapala seems to be doing great business. Tel +675 325 2231. as well as an a la carte menu, has restaurant, where the steaks and It’s Asian with a fusion of flavours Tasty Bites: An Indian stunning views. This is also the garlic prawns are impressive. Old- from China, Thailand and Vietnam. restaurant tucked away in the place for traditional rectangular, fashioned crepes Suzette makes Takeaway available. town centre in Hunter Street wood-fired Italian pizza. See an appearance here, too, and is Grand Papuan Brasserie: near Crowne Plaza. You won’t airways.com.pg. cooked at your table. The funky Grand Papua Hotel get a table unless you book. Aviat Club: The club is open Daikoku: The extensive Japanese bar serves up cocktails and has Tel +675 321 2222. for breakfast, lunch and dinner. menu has teppanyaki, donburi a decent wine list, along with Vision City: PNG’s first major Home-style meals include stir- bowls and a large range of sushi. some tasty tapas-style bar food. shopping mall houses an fries, toasted sandwiches and Tucked away above the SVS Grab a seat in one of the huge, increasing array of eateries. The salt-and-pepper prawns. The shopping centre in Harbour City, black leather chairs or head to cavernous Dynasty (Chinese) and burgers and the fish and chips chefs will whip up your meal at the Brasserie, which has a nightly the Ten (Japanese) are stand- are spectacular. This is a great your table. The teppanyaki menu buffet. The a la carte menu is outs.See ourportmoresby.co/ spot to sit at lunchtime under the includes several courses, so come good and the steaks are delicious. things-to-do/archives/dynasty. shady mango trees, or in the air- with an empty stomach. See See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. conditioned bar. See aviat.com.pg. ourportmoresby.co/things-to-do/ Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for HOTELS archives/daikoku. Cafe on the Edge: There are good choice here with three restaurants Airways Hotel: Airways is hamburgers here and breakfast Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: (Spices, The Italian, and Rio’s at located within a large, secure options such as eggs benedict, This has rapidly become popular the Temple), Cafe Palazzo, Lanes compound next to Jacksons avocado and the best crispy bacon. among the expat community, with Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s biggest International Airport. An inspiring The servings are generous. It is excellent coffee and homemade nightclub, The Gold Club. See setting, luxurious rooms, excellent one of the few cafes in town that cafe-style food. See facebook. lamanahotel.com.pg. service and very good food opens early; you can grab your first com/duffypng. options. See airways.com.pg. Royal Papua Yacht Club: cuppa from 6.45am. Located under Tel. +675 324 5200. Dynasty at Vision City: This Relaxed, spacious and open to the residential buildings on the new may be the biggest restaurant non-members. Comfort food, Crowne Plaza: Upmarket rooms Harbour City development, down in Port Moresby. Its size, its draught beer and an open-plan and suites in the heart of the CBD. behind the ANZ and BSP bank. See chandeliers and its gold decor bar area showing sport on large Decent gym, business centre, facebook.com/CafeOnTheEdge. make it a favourite for balls, screens. If it’s too busy, try the undercover parking, thriving café Crowne Plaza Hotel: There are dinners and parties. The menu Aviat Club in nearby Konedobu. and Mediterranean restaurant. multiple eating options at Crowne. is huge, too, with pages of See rpyc.com.pg. Tel +675 309 3329. The in-house restaurant includes Asian dishes. Don’t miss yum Seoul House: This restaurant Ela Beach Hotel and a buffet for breakfast (eggs cha on Sunday mornings. See specialises in Korean and Thai Apartments: On the fringe of the cooked to order), as well as lunch ourportmoresby.co/things-to-do/ food, cooked on the hot plate CDB, this constantly expanding and dinner. It’s one of the few archives/dynasty. right in front of you. Seoul House hotel/apartment complex is ➤

128 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

part of the Coral Sea Hotels and free buffet breakfast. See sandwiches, cakes and salads. group. Its main eatery is popular lagunahotelpng.com. Tel. +675 7217 1966. at lunchtime. See coralseahotels. Tel +675 323 9333. Golden Aviat: A good option com.pg. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the for Chinese, located on Huon Road Gateway Hotel: Another member hotel has 24-hour free airport in Eriku. Open for lunch and dinner of Coral Sea Hotels, this time transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, a and yum cha on Sundays. located next to the airport. A range conference centre, restaurants, Tel. +675 472 0486. of amenities include Port Moresby’s and the famous Gold Club. Huon Club: A private members’ largest dedicated meeting space. See lamanahotel.com.pg. club, offering air-conditioned See coralseahotels.com.pg. Tel +675 323 2333. facilities, comfortable lounge chairs, Grand Papua: This premium Stanley Hotel and Suites: Port an expansive deck overlooking the hotel opened in late 2011 and Moresby’s newest hotel (opened Lae Golf Club, a fully stocked bar features 156 suite rooms (short in July, 2016) is a luxurious 429- and Foxtel connection to preview and long stay), an executive floor, room property in Waigani, close to all the racing and sporting events. gym and conference facilities. The government offices and embassies. Tel. +675 7347 1058. separate restaurant and bar areas It has 95 long-stay apartments, Lae International Hotel: Home to are popular venues for business gym, pool, cafe, restaurants three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian meetings in town. Centrally and an executive lounge.

Pizza, Vanda, and Kokomo, which PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND located. See grandpapuahotel. Connected to Vision City Mega all serve an array of international com.pg. Tel. +675 304 0000. Mall. See thestanleypng.com. and Western cuisine, including Tel. + 675 302 8888. lunch. Serves pub-style food Holiday Inn: Located in the Indian and seafood buffets. The including burgers, steaks and government district of Waigani. EATING, DRINKING, Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) pizza, which goes down a treat Large grounds with walking SOCIALISING IN LAE is also a good place for a nightcap, with the surrounding views of the track, in a tropical garden setting. or two. See laeinterhotel.com. Huon Gulf. See laeyachtclub.com. Outdoor restaurant dining and Bunga Raya Restaurant: Tel. +675 472 7000. Tel. +675 472 4091. bar area, business centre and A local favourite, serving Lae Golf Club: Whether it’s Mountain View Restaurant: gym. Recently expanded to Malaysian-style Chinese. Located after a challenging round of golf One of Lae’s newest restaurants include a three-star Holiday Inn next door to the Lae Golf Club. or just an excuse to catch up is at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine Express hotel. See ing.com. Be sure to try the stuffed lettuce with friends, the club is excellent Mile. Open for breakfast, lunch Tel +675 303 2000. cups, laksa and claypot tofu. Tel. for a few sundowners as you and dinner, be sure to try the +675 472 7177 Laguna Hotel: The 60-room overlook the stunning green. Japanese fusion menu – it’s property is a five-minute drive Chigi’s Cafe: A delightful place Tel. +675 472 1363. the only place in town where from the heart of Port Moresby inside the temporary Brian Bell Lae Yacht Club: The perfect you can get good sushi. See and features a lagoon-style pool, store near the Lae main markets. place for late-afternoon beers, hornibrook.com.pg/crossroads/. free airport transfers, free Wi-Fi Serves good coffee, milkshakes, or just as nice for a relaxing Tel. +675 475 1124.

130 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

HOTELS Lae International: The city’s available on site, as well as a or passport, at the NAC premier hotel has recently contemporary restaurant offering information desk in the departure Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room renovated rooms, full bar service, everything from pizza and steak lounge where they will receive facility at 9 Mile. The hotel has conference and banquet halls, a to Asian and roast buffets. a username and password. a Japanese-themed teppanyaki gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. See coralseahotels.com.pg. restaurant with Asian/Western com. Tel: +675 472 2000. Tel. +675 472 3744. HELPFUL WEBSITES fusion menus, full bar service, Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg a well-equipped gym, WiFi and Lae Travellers Inn: An For general information Business Advantage PNG, complimentary transport transfers affordable option, offering clean about Lae, see lcci.org.pg businessadvantagepng.com both to Lae City and Nadzab and comfortable rooms. Just a and rainylae.com. Airport. See hornibrook.com.pg/ few minutes from the centre of PNG Tourism Promotion Authority, crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. town, the inn also has conference Free Wi-Fi at papuanewguinea.travel facilities and a small restaurant airport Lae City Hotel: One of the serving Western and Indian Port Moresby Chamber of newest hotels in town, offering cuisine. Tel. +675 479 0411. Domestic and international Commerce and Industry, a 24-hour concierge service. passengers at Port Moresby’s www.pomcci.com n Located in the main Top Town Melanesian Hotel: An iconic airport can now connect to free area, it also has an excellent cafe property located in the heart Wi-Fi. The National Airports and restaurant with Western and of Lae. The city centre is easily Corporation (NAC) announced the Asian cuisine. See laecityhotel. accessible and the hotel has development last year. com. Tel: +675 472 0138. nice rooms with harbour views. To connect, users need to A gift store and hairdresser is present a boarding pass and ID,

January – February 2017 131 arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more How much is this? One beer, please. Restaurant than 800 languages, but the Dispela em haumas? Wanpela bia plis. Ples bilong kai kai three official languages are Tok Thank you very much. Why? Long wanem? Goodbye Gudbai Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we Tenkyu tumas. outline some Tok Pisin, which is How many children do you Hello Halo the largest lingua franca of PNG. You understand English? have? Yu gat haumas Water Wara Yu save long tok Inglis? pikinini? Where do I find a taxi? Baggage Kago Bai mi painim taxi long wea? Where is my bag? Where are you from? Bag bilong mi istap we? Yu bilong wanem hap? Airport Ples balus One coffee with milk, please. Place Ples Wanpela kap kopi wantaim Where can I change my I don’t know. Mi no save. milk plis. money? What do you want? Fish Pis Wanem hap bai mi senisim Yu laikim wanem samting? Where is the toilet? moni bilong mi? Toilet istap wea?

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wan Tu Tri Foa Faiv Sikis Seven Et Nain Ten

132 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

Gerehu Port Moresby University of Papua New Guinea Morata Eight Mile Port Moresby Nature Park To Bomana War Cemetery W a Waigani To Motukea Island, the ig a PNG LNG plant and Ensisi n i Royal Napa Napa Refinery D r Port Moresby y w H Golf Club y ra National ur M t Museum er b u Parliament H Laguna Hotel Kumul Flyover PNG Erima Vision City Stanley Hotel Sir John Guise Stadium Lamana Hotel Jacksons Port City Hall International Moresby Holiday Inn Air Niugini Haus Airport W Gateway Hotel a ig a n Gordons i D Six Mile Airways r Hotel d Hanuabada R Saraga 0 100 Km en rd Ga Port Moresby Harbour g in Harbour City pr Hohola S Four Mile W Konedobu a Royal Papua rd s Yacht Club Sir Hubert Murray Rd Stadium Ta ur Boroko Taurama Aquatic am a Murray Rd ert Hwy Centre Harbourside ub H Port Moresby Crowne Plaza Badili Korobosea General Hospital Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Koki Town Two Mile Walter Bay Sabama 0 Km 1 Gabutu

January – February 2017 133 arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

Papua New Guinea University of Technology LAE Taraka

To Nadzab Airport, 42 kilometres

Crossroads Hotel Omili H d ig R h bu la m n Bu ds H w y Malahang Industrial Centre

I n H Bumneng d o e u p n e R n d d e n c Bugandi e H Golf Course Eriku D ig r r h D l e a Milford Haven Rd n c d n s Huon Club e H Bum d w b n u R e y ive p Botanical r e H d o n Gardens u I n

R d Dowsett War Cemetery Showgrounds Butibum Hotel Morobe

Sandpiper Rd 0 Km 1 PNG Lae d Lae City R n Lae Angau e v Lae City a Hospital China Town H Hotel d M r Lae International o a f l rk i Markets ha Hotel M m

Rd Lae International Melanesian Hotel Rd Hospital Butibam 0 100 Km t lia S no ag M Voco Lae Yacht Club Point Lae Port Huon Gulf

134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TOKYO

SHANGHAI

DUBAI PACIFIC HONG KONG OCEAN MUMBAI MANILA

CEBU CHUUK POHNPEI

KUALA LUMPUR NAIROBI SINGAPORE PORT MORESBY JAKARTA BALI HONIARA

PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE

SYDNEY AUCKLAND

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP

Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Pohnpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected] TOKYO

SHANGHAI

DUBAI PACIFIC HONG KONG OCEAN MUMBAI MANILA

CEBU CHUUK POHNPEI

KUALA LUMPUR NAIROBI SINGAPORE PORT MORESBY JAKARTA BALI HONIARA

PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI INDIAN OCEAN BRISBANE

SYDNEY AUCKLAND

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP

Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Los Angeles Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services PNG Tourism Pohnpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 Tel: (1) 949 752 5440 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 Fax: (1) 949 4716 3741 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected]