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I Love !

TheThe story story of of why why 33 foreignforeign tourists tourists fellfell in in love love with Korea. Korea. Co-plannedCo-planned by bythe the Visit Visit Korea Korea Committee Committee & & the the Korea Korea JoongAng JoongAng Daily Daily I Love Korea!

The story of why 33 foreign tourists fell in love with Korea.

Co-planned by the Visit Korea Committee & the Korea JoongAng Daily

I Love Korea!

This book was co-published by the Visit Korea Committee and the Korea JoongAng Daily newspaper. “The Korea Foreigners Fell in Love With” was a column published from April, 2010 until October, 2012 in the week& section of the Korea JoongAng Daily. Foreigners who visited and saw Korea’s beautiful nature, culture, foods and styles have sent in their experiences with pictures attached. I Love Korea is an honest and heart-warming story of the Korea these people fell in love with. c o n t e n t s

012 Korea 070 Heritage of Korea _ Tradition & History

072 General Yi Sun-sin 016 Nature of Korea _ Mountains, Oceans & Roads General! I get very emotional seeing you standing in the middle of with a big sword 018 Bicycle Riding in Seoul 076 Panmunjeom & the DMZ The 8 Streams of Seoul, and Ah, so heart breaking! 024 Hiking the Mountain Range Only a few steps separate the south to the north Yikes! ! What?! Hahaha…an unforgettable night 080 Bukchon Village, Seoul at the National ’s Shelters Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park and the Asian Art Museum, 030 Seoul Bicycle Tour a cluster of Seoul Charm 548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul, 086 Taekwondo thank you for the helmet-ful of Korean love Taekwondo is a friend of 20 years, and now I’m a Korean at heart 034 Jeju Olle Trail 092 Templestay I received a precious gift from this earth, I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows, I feel 10 Years Younger thanks to the Olle trail barely kept my eyes open during the early morning service, 040 Hiking in Island but I got to known a new side of Korea The Sanmaru-gil Road that I made, you will be shocked 098 The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain 046 Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea One of my wishes was fulfilled that day “Arigato, Gatbawi!” I was mesmerized by the sight of migratory birds I saw in Suncheonman Bay, Haenam

052 Walking on Seoul's Mountain A life spent falling in love with the four seasons of Namsan Mountain, a life already 21 years old

058 Photo Journey of Korea The intoxicating orange light from the rising sun, I had fallen in love with the East Coast

064 Tour of Island When you’ve missed the last boat, that’s when you get to see the generosity of Ulleungdo Island 104 _ Hallyu & Passion 176 Tastes of Korea _ Nature, Health & Body

106 Tour of Busan 178 It’s more affectionate because it’s loud and crazy. A spoonful of colorful ingredients, wow! Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to 184 Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area 110 Tour of Drama Filming Locations Food critic from Hong Kong can’t stop eating Namdo food Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse… 190 Korean Street Food I came to see Bae Yong-joon, and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart I tried , eomuk, , and… dak kkochi at a pojangmacha, 116 Korean Soccer and now I can’t forget the taste! I go to soccer stadiums to feel the “Real” Korea 194 Native Foods of Korea 120 Journey of Devotion beyond your imagination, Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun I was humbled by seeing how is made and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in -si, 198 Tour of Traditional Markets Such a Romantic Korea There’s nothing that Moran Market doesn’t have, 128 Best Place to Propose and here I felt the warmth of Korea I proposed to my girlfriend at Lotte World, and she couldn’t stop crying 204 Food Culture of -si 134 K-pop Live Spicy jjimdak for Lunch, Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner. Elementary English teacher during week, K-pop fanatic on weekends Fine dining from morning till night

140 Tour of the Korean Night Life Partying at clubs, noraebang, DVDbang, then relaxing at a 210 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes 148 Exploring the Alleys of Seoul 246 Travel Information Experience the Depth of Seoul in the Small Alleys Between the Tall Buildings

152 Korean Popular Music I got to know Korean songs through Chu Ga-yeoul, and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through Shim Su-bong

156 Busan's Sajik Baseball Park While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi” I too became a Citizen of Busan

162 International Airport See the Korean Wisdom at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone for Transit Travelers

168 Train Journey Romance in Public Transportation 012 | Korea | 013

A Unique Culture Based Four Seasons, on a Long History Four Different Settings

Donggureung Royal Tombs ⓒKTO Dongnamgangnu Pavilion ⓒKTO Panmunjeom ⓒKTO Bulguksa Temple ⓒKTO Gyeonghwa Station ⓒKTO Jusanji Pond ⓒKTO Seonunsa Temple ⓒKTO Jirisan Mountain ⓒKTO

Life was discovered in the Korean peninsula about With four distinct seasons, Korea belongs to the 700,000 years ago, and around BC 2000, , the temperate zone. Therefore depending on when you visit, first kingdom of Korea was born. As a country of 5000- a whole different setting will unfold before you. year history, Korea has many diverse cultures and relics, like to enjoy the changes of nature by going on trips as well as unique regional specialty products. Due to every season. Visit Korea and discover the colorful spring its proximity to the capital city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do flowers, heart-warming summers, golden autumn leaves boasts a rich collection of royal heritage sites. Home to and snow-white winters. These four unique settings will the DMZ, Gangwon-do embraces the pains and sorrows keep your camera busy the whole time. of a still divided country, and it also has many beautiful mountains and temples. The Chungcheong-do region has many hot springs and resting areas, and the Jeolla-do region is known as the home of Korea’s tastes and flavors. The city of Andong, which is the noblemen’s village visited by Queen Elizabeth II, and the millennial city of are located in the Gyeongsang-do region, and the volcanic island of Jejudo has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage. 014 | Korea | 015

Korean Cuisine Korea at a Glance and Regional Specialties Location The Korean peninsula is situated Russia in the eastern tip of the Asian continent, and along with and is it part of . China Korea Japan 2 With a total area 222,135 km , 중국 occupies 99,461 km 2 (45%), and occupies 122,762 km2 (55%). North Korea is bordered to China along the Amnokgang River (Yule River), and to Russia along the Dumangang Baechu ⓒKTO Various types of kimchi ⓒKTO Jeonju traditional bibimbap ⓒKTO Heukdweji (grilled black pork) ⓒKTO River. South Korea is bordered by the East Sea and the South Sea, which separates is from Japan, and the to the west.

To most people, the first thing they think of when they Climate hear KOREA, is kimchi. The various flavors of the Korea is located in the northern hemisphere mid-latitude, and belongs to the temperate zone with four distinct seasons. The average temperature condiments used, and the hot and spicy gochugaru (Korea in spring runs between 15–19 (59–66 ), in summer around 30 (86 ), chili powder) are what make this dish so distinct and in autumn between 11–19 (52–66 ), and in winter the temperature is popular. The one thing that best describes a country’s about -6–7 (21–45 ). culture is usually its food. Korean food is highly affected by the country’s geography. Being a peninsula, Korea is History surrounded by the sea on three sides, and the northern The prehistoric age of Korea began 700,000 years ago, and with the inflow of the Bronze Age in BC 2000, the first Korean kingdom of Gojoseon was area is highly mountainous. The major ingredients of created. Gojoseon ended in BC 108 and was followed by the Early State, Korean food are wild gathered from the the Three Kingdoms Era, the Unified Kingdom, and the mountains, fresh seafood caught from the surrounding Dynasty. In the late 14th century, after the fall of Goryeo Dynasty, the waters, and grains grown in the fields. Therefore, by Dynasty rule the nation for 500 years, and between 1910 to 1945, trying Korean food, you can taste the mountains, the seas, Japan invaded Korea and thus was under Japanese rule. After gaining and the four seasons. freedom from Japan in 1945 the Republic of Korea was formed, but in 1950, the broke out and the country was divided.

Gojoseon–Early State Unified Silla Kingdom Joseon Dynasty Republic of Korea (BC 2000–AD 180) (676–935) (1392–1910) (1945–)

Prehistoric Era Three Kingdoms Era Goryeo Dynasty Japanese Rule (700,000 years (BC 108–AD 676) (918–1392) (1910–1945) ago–BC 2000) 016 Nature 017 Kathleen Stephens Davide Macullo Peter Walshaw Bicycle Riding in Seoul Jeju Olle Trail Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain of Korea – – – Roger Allan Shepherd Michael Eschenbach Leigh MacArthur Hiking the Baekdudaegan Hiking in Geojedo Island Photo Journey of Korea Mountain Range – – – Martin Sutherland Muroya Madoka Fujii Takashi Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea Tour of Ulleungdo Island Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour

Mountains, Oceans & R o a d s

Jirisan Mountain ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd 018 | Bicycle Riding in Seoul | 019 The celebration of Chuseok has changed since I first came to Korea many years ago; it no longer feels so connected with rural rhythms and harvests. It came early this year, and the feel of summer lingers – the noisy cicadas still buzz, the tree leaves remain green. We can feel in the cooling breeze and the bluer skies that the season of “high skies and fat horses” approaches, though, and along with “lots of traffic” Chuseok remains a time in Korea to gather with family and friends, to prepare food and gifts. Children will be either adored (the very young) or admonished (the students preparing for exams) by the entire family. It’s a great time to be in Korea.

I love the countryside during Chuseok, but like many non-Koreans and an increasing number of Koreans, I’ve decided I also like staying in Seoul during Chuseok. The city is largely empty and shuttered, and we can explore at a more relaxed pace. For those of us who like exploring by bicycle, Chuseok is one of the best opportunities of the year to ride the streets and byways of Seoul without the usual crush of traffic.

In front of the Bodogak Hall White Buddha with the Embassy Cycling Team and friends ⓒTom Underwood This year the traffic was not as light as we expected, but the weather was great. Embassy officer Tom Underwood, who spends even more time on a bicycle (and planning bike trips) than I do, had developed an “Eight Rivers” tour in the Seoul vicinity he was eager to share with us. So our

Kathleen Stephens

Born in Texas, Kathleen Stephens was the U.S. Ambassador to Korea from September 2008 until November 2011. Her first experience of Korea was back in 1975 as a member of the US Peace Corp. While working as a Native English Teacher in Chungcheongnam-do’s Yesan Middle School, she passed the Foreign Service The 8 Streams of Seoul, Examination and returned to Korea in 1978 as a Diplomatic Official. ´Shim -gyeong´ is her given to her by fellow Peace Corp members and teachers. She is very fluent in Korean, and she was also and Chuseok regarded as the “US ambassador who best understood Korea.” 020

021 group circled Seoul along a route that included important historical and ancient transport links, but that can be ridden mostly on purpose- built bike trails along the streams and rivers. You might not think that it’s possible – but following the Hangang River and seven of its tributaries to the north almost closes the loop. In between is the challenging the Changuimun Gate ⓒKTO Bugak Mountain Highway. Altogether a diverse and challenging 80 km course! The Eight Rivers are the Hangang River, Changneungcheon Stream, Sunchangcheon Stream (although very small), Bulgwangcheon Stream, Hongjecheon Stream, Seongbukcheon Stream, the famous Stream and Jungnangcheon Stream.

Our first stop was at the ancient stone bridge at Gangmae-dong (Gangmaeseokgyo). Hard to believe that this was the main road between Seoul and Pyeongyang-si in Joseon Dynasty! Later, on the The nearby Haengjusanseong Fortress on Deogyangsan Mountain Jungnangcheon Stream, we passed Salgoji Bridge, or arrow-struck bridge, overlooking the Hangang River was the site of a major Korean victory which used to be the longest stone bridge in Korea. These are treasures against Japanese occupiers in 1593. The Chungjangsa Shrine there of ancient Korean infrastructure. Too few are still intact. honors General Gwon Yul, who together with Admiral Yi Sun-sin was largely responsible for the liberation of Joseon Dynasty. We entered a small theater to watch a film about this historic victory. Finding lunch on a Chuseok outing can be a challenge! Fortunately, we came across a wonderful place selling and dwaeji galbi next to the Five West Tombs of Joseon Dynasty or Seooreung Royal Tomb. You can get all the way there following the Changneungcheon Stream and Sunchangcheon Stream. Within 20 minutes of our arrival the place was full of customers, so we were not the only ones looking! Cycling Route of the 8 Streams of Seoul Sunchangcheon Stream Changneungcheon A short stretch of heavy traffic, two more streams with bike lanes, Stream Mountain Gyeonggi-do past the wonderful architectural trio of the Goryeo White Buddha, Seongbukcheon Stream Hongjimun Gate (홍지문), and Changuimun Gate (창의문) and we started Bulgwangcheon Stream Hongjecheon climbing. Stream Cheonggyecheon Stream Seoul I keep Montana close to my heart and I live for the mountains, but Jungnangcheon Stream Bugaksan Mountain is a workout, even on my new mountain bike. At Hangang River Home the top we were rewarded by this stunning view of Seoul, with very clear visibility. And then it was a straight plunge downhill back to the streams! 한강 Then we moved on to the new bike trail along Seongbukcheon Stream 022

023 to Cheonggyecheon Stream – the stream around which Seoul City Look Inside! grew. What a transformation! I expect that many readers have enjoyed strolling along the restored stream with its many attractions. One is the Cheonggyecheon Museum that celebrates the past, present, and future of the stream. A 50 meter stretch of recreated shanties over the Major Holidays of Korea: Seollal & Chuseok Cheonggyecheon Stream offers a sanitized version of the slums that grew up around the stream during and after the Korean War. The stream was Every year over 30,000,000 Koreans head to their hometown. The metropolitan area, where almost half of the country’s popular is cluttered, quiets down during the holidays. The only reason why the entire country jumps covered during the 1960s and an elevated highway was constructed over on the highway to battle the mad traffic is to join the family. that in the 1970s. There is a simulated reconstruction of the underground stream of that period. Finally, visitors see how Cheonggyecheon Stream was restored through display panels, images and models.

All in all, a good Chuseok. And yes, we even ate . A woman at the White Buddha very kindly offered us her homemade songpyeon when we rode up. Korean traditional holiday ⓒKTO

Seollal welcomes the New Year A Plentiful and Bountiful Chuseok Traditionally a farming nation, Korea values the August 15th of the is when the 24 seasonal divisions of the Lunar Calendar. moon is the biggest and roundest in the year. On January 1 of the lunar calendar, people say It was derived from the ancient harvesting their farewell to the ending year and wish for day. The most representative food of Chuseok an abundant coming year. In 1949, the Korean is songpyeon, a half-moon shaped cake. government declared January 1 of the solar As Chuseok nears, people make songpyeon calendar a national holiday. But the tradition with new harvested rice, and it has been said of celebrating the lunar New Year did not that if you make a pretty songpyeon, you’ll disappear. So in 1989, the Korean government have a pretty daughter. On the morning of also declared Seollal, the lunar New Year, a Chuseok, like Seollal, families pay respect national holiday and it is celebrated for three to their ancestors, then share a big meal. days. On the morning of the lunar New Year, Some families also go to their parents and family members gather to pay respect to their grandparents tombs with deliciously cooked ancestors. Tteokguk, or rice cake soup, is a foods. Depending on the region, bull fights, representative dish of seollal. After the ancestral carriage fights, and circle ritual, they visit family elders and bow to them dance are performed in Chuseok. Being an wishing them a long and healthy life, and in autumn harvesting holiday, Chuseok was return, the elders give them an allowance called always about eating well and staying warm, “sebetdon.” Traditional games and activities of the so much so that on this days people greeted holiday include yutnori, kite flying, shuttlecock each other by saying “no more, no less, let it game and seesaw. always be like Chuseok day.” Crossing the stone bridge in Gangmae-dong ⓒTom Underwood 024 | Hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range | 025 Whilst hiking Korea’s 735 km Baekdudaegan Mountain Range, I ended up inside one of ’s shelters. These shelters are often over-crowded with as much as two hundred other hikers’ that sleep alongside you. Some of the hikers are not so recreationally fit During the night, the place understandably becomes a cacophony of snoring, but if you forget to bring your ear plugs, then you might be lucky enough to experience the shrieking yelps of an unfit hiker as he suddenly contorts with violent leg cramps in the black night. As you lay there in the startled darkness, you hear the cramped hiker rising quickly from his bed-space only for his head to clash on the low overhanging hard beam of wood that supports the roof of the shelter, followed by a painful moan that replaces the shrieking. You try not to laugh along with the two hundred other men whom are now all sniggering in the mountain night. The final act is hearing the sound of the ailing hiker fall back to the floor on top of another hiker/s that causes a chain reaction of jerking and cursing bodies, as the night shelter lights up with hysterical laughter.

When not sleeping on ridges, you might sometimes seek shelter in rural Jirisan Mountain ⓒChoi Jung-chul minbaks (country guesthouses). However, arriving in pitch blackness, over the sounding alarm of village farm dogs is never easy. Knocking on the door of someone’s country home and then wondering what the proprietor’s reaction might be at this time of the night is…humorously

Yikes! Bang! What?! Hahaha… Roger Allan Shepherd Shepherd hiked the whole Baekdudaegan Mountain Range. Shepherd (45) was in the New Zealand Police Department, and beginning in September of 2007, he hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range in three months. From the foot of Jirisan Mountain to foot of Seoraksan Mountain, Shepherd hiked and climbed, and hiked again a full 750 km. The reason an unforgettable night was simple. He likes mountains. He said that the mountainside of Korea were as grand and beautiful as New Zealand’s Tongariro Mountain, where Lord of the Rings was filmed. He sent us a story about his experiences in Jirisan Mountain, at the Jirisan National Park’s Shelters similar to a journal of hike. You can see and feel nature and life of Korea through his writings. 026

027 anticipative. The door opens and you watch as the Korean home owner of my bag, sure enough, I saw four old ladies sitting in the bus stop almost dies of fright when seeing a white, unkempt feature standing in opposite me. I rolled over and went back to sleep, but the intensity of the his doorway. The door suddenly slams shut before anything can be said. argument amplified. I wondered when the bus might arrive to transport Ensuring the home owner that you are not a pale gwi-shin (ghost) from the this strong disagreement elsewhere…and then the thought of ‘why the mountain interior, he slowly opens the door, peering at you from the small hell’ a bus would be servicing this far off part of Korea at this time of gap and you beam a smile and slight laughter. Once accommodated, you the morning, awoke me proper! I decided to put a stop to this with my soon become treated to fine Korean hospitality and friendliness all over presence. From inside my bag, I let out a loud yawn, followed by some laughter and maekju (), and the dogs go back to sleep. rolling around. I heard the old ladies suddenly stop arguing and silence reign. I slowly unzipped my bag. I then rose out of my bag draped only One night I had slept out on a large bench under a village guardian in my underwear, and slowly but surely stretched and raised my 6 foot tree alongside a rural road. At about 5.30a.m. as I lay huddled inside my plus hiking frame high into the air. The four sat there gaping at me, sleeping bag; I heard what sounded like a bunch of old ladies having serenely acknowledging that they might be seeing things. I looked at an argument. They hadn’t spotted me yet, and as I poked my head out them rather nonchalantly, scratching my nether region. As the four old ladies sat their silently, one of them recalled her bi-lingual skills and said in a rather questionable manner, “Hello?”

Realizing the hilarity of the early morning situation, the other three burst out laughing, and I too, in my near nakedness, burst out laughing as well. The arguing stopped, and low and behold an empty bus turned up at the same time. The bus driver noticing the situation joined in the laughter as well. The giggling old ladies got on the bus forgetting their previous argument and we all waved goodbye to each other, beginning an unforgettable start to all our days in the mountains of Korea. (Published April 16th, 2010)

Women selling vegetables grown in their own farms ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd 028

029 Look Inside!

The Spine of the Korean Peninsula, Baekdudaegan Mountain Range

The Baedudaegan Mountain Range refers to the string of mountains that runs down the middle of the peninsula beginning with Baekdusan Mountain and continues on to Geumgangsan, Seoraksan, , Sobaeksan mountains and ends at Jirisan Mountain. As you can tell from the name, the core of the mountain range is Baekdusan Mountain. Koreans believe that all mountains of Korea were born from Baekdusan Mountain. Baekdudaegan makes up the “spine” of the Korean peninsula. It stretches for a total of 1,400 km and the ten major rivers of Korea, including Dumangang, Amnokgang, Hangang and Nakdonggang, are said to source out from this mountain range.

Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO

Baekdudaegan Northern Region Baekdudaegan Central Region Baekdudaegan Southern Region Being a divided nation, the northern The spine of Korea stretches along The last stretch of Baekdudaegan most region that can be reached the East Sea, and passed southern ends at Jirisan Mountain. This from Korea is Gangwon-do. When Gangwon-do it bends inward magnificent mountain rises compared to the human body, it’s to the southern provinces. The 1,916.88 m above sea level in the about where the waist would be, central region of the mountain southern region of the peninsula. hence, a much forested region. range consists of Sobaeksan Jirisan maintains the The steep and forested peaks of (1,439.5 m), Songnisan (1,058.48 and Seokraksan Mountain (1,707.9 m), m), Hwangaksan (1,111.4 m), moist and fertile. The areas and the beautiful five peaks of Sambongsan (1,177 m) and around Cheonwangbong Peak, Mountain (1,563.4 m) are Deogyusan (1,614 m) mountains. the highest in Jirisan Mountain, the two representative mountains The ridges of the central region Nogodan Peak (1,507 m) and of the province. The northern region are softer, and less rugged than Banyabong Peak (1,751 m), is very of the Baekdudaegan Mountain the northern region. The many hilly and rugged. The 300-km- Range boasts heavenly nature, and beautiful valleys enriches the eco- long Jirisan Dulle-gil Trail is masculine ridges. system of the central are of Korea. very popular amongst local and visiting hikers.

Autumn in Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains ⓒKTO 030 | Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour | 031 with the words “Busan Seoul” written on it. I had prepared for myself a construction workers’ helmet for people whom I’ll meet to write messages on it. In addition, the rest of the items I carried included a map (in Korean), a few additional sets of clothes to change into, a 548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul, raincoat, and a camera. 18 Apr (Sun) I arrived at Busan Port. I had my breakfast at thank you for the helmet-ful of and started off from there. The traffic rules here was different from Japan, so I felt a little lost in the beginning, whereby I had to get used to cars Korean love driving on the right-hand-side. Since I was a foreigner, I had a hard time reading the names of places in Korean. I am poor with directions, so I got lost from time to time, which wasted a fair bit of my time and energy. I stayed at -si that night. 19 Apr (Mon) I started off for . Since this was a country road, I didn't have to worry about getting lost. I was cycling enjoyably along a long row of Cherry Blossom trees lining the road. Going uphill was tough but going downhill was refreshing particularly for cyclists. Eventually I stopped at a temple dedicated to Bhaisajyaguru (The Medicine Buddha), and I prayed for safety on the road. The chicken soup that I had for lunch was fantastic! I stayed in Daegu that night. 20 Apr (Tue) I was so hungry that I could not move, so I ate a full breakfast. Seeing that I was on a bicycle tour, the cafeteria stall owner gave me some extra meat at no extra cost, and gave me some home- made plum juice to drink whenever I got tired. Many people have given me directions this time round. The girl at S-OIL also gave me a cup of coffee. The taxi and bus drivers, road construction workers, and passerbys

Encouraging words written on the helmet I wore throughout the whole trip ⓒFujii Takashi

I’m a 54 year old Japanese engaged in outdoor activities based on the concept of “Creating memories of our lifetime!”. This time round, I Fujii Takashi 藤井孝司 went for a bicycle tour from Busan to Seoul. The total riding distance Born 1956 in Japan, Takashi is a judge and consultant for the Japanese ISO. He wants to “make memories is 548 km, including additional distances cycled from getting lost and of life” by enjoying the great outdoors. He has climbed mountains in Japan as well as Korea including Seoraksan, Hallasan, , Sobaeksan, Geumjeongsan, Manisan mountains, and many more. In the sightseeing. spring of 2010, he rode his bike from Busan to Seoul, for a total of 548 km including getting lost a few times 17 Apr (Sat) To take the ferry to Busan, I cycled around 80 km from my and stopping over for sightseeing. He sent us his diary of his week-long bicycle journey. home to Shimonoseki. I had a cardboard box strapped to my bicycle 032

033 cheered me on with the Korean-style cheer “Fighting!”. A policeman Look Inside! called out “Ajeossi! (“Uncle” in Korean)” to me and stopped me for police questioning. ~(^^). All these encounters and verbal exchanges have made my journey enjoyable by many folds. I stayed over at - si that night. A Fantastic Riding Course, 21 Apr (Wed) Today I started off for -si. It was a one-lane road so the 4 Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road I didn’t have to worry about losing my way, so I was relaxed. The Cherry Blossoms were in full bloom so it was really refreshing as I cycled. Since I As the cycling population in Korea is growing, the number of cycling roads is also growing. In the spring of 2012, was there, I stopped at the Suanbo Spa to wash my sweat away. Although it the 1,757-km-long Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road (riverguide.go.kr) was developed as part of the Four Major Rivers Restoration Project. The cross-country road runs along Hanggang, Geumgang, Yeongsangang and was just a short while more before I reached Chungju-si, I had a punctured Nakdonggang rivers and each riverside offers a unique view and atmosphere. Here I introduce the five major tire. I asked around for people to guide me to the petrol station, bike shop, courses of the Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road. bicycle shop, and I had my tire replaced. Finally, my journey can continue. I stayed at a motel near the bicycle shop that night. 22 Apr (Thu) Distance-wise, it won’t be long before I arrive in Seoul. However, I was scheduled to meet my friends on the evening of the following day so I decided to take my time as I walked. I went for a walk at Lotte World, and cycled slowly as I shopped. I stayed at a yeogwan () Hangang River Cycling Track ⓒKTO Yeongsangang River ⓒKTO in Oksu-dong that night.

23 Apr (Fri) It was the last day of my bicycle tour. Today I set off for the ➊ Hangang River Cycling Road ➌ Geumgang River Course ➎ Nakdonggang River Course heart of the city. I stopped by a park that had a bronze statue and reliefs (Seoul) This 146-km-long course from This is a hardcore, 389-km winding carved with words declaring independence. My heart ached towards This 56 km course starts at the Ara the Geumgang River Estuary course from the Nakdonggang Hangang Floodgate and ends at the sad under the Japanese empire. I arrived at Seoul to the takes Estuary to the Andong Dam. the Paldangdaegyo Bridge. Because Station at noon. I decided to make this my last stop. I met up with my about 10 hours to complete. From the Bakjingogae section in it runs through downtown Seoul, The golden reflection of the sun Gyeongsangnam-do Province, you old friends in the evening, and my 7 day tour ended there. Although this it is easily accessible and ideal for a on Baengmagang River seen can see the entire Nakdonggang tour lasted just a few days, it had created lifelong memories for me. I now quick ride anytime. from atop Busosan Mountain is River. keep the helmet that contained messages from everybody as my treasure. Estimated time 3 hours 40 minutes magnificent. Passed Daecheong Estimated time 25 hours 55 minutes th (Published August 27 , 2010) Dam is Daecheongho Lake, which ➋ Hangang River Course has a where you can also ride your This 136 km course includes bike. ➊ ➋ Fujii Takashi's Tour Itinerary the 56 km of the Hangang River Estimated time 9 hours 40 minutes Cycling Road and continues from ➎ ➌ Oksu-dong, Seoul (Apr. 22)• the Paldangdaegyo Bridge to ➍ Yeongsangang River Course Arrive at (Apr. 23) Chungju (Apr. 21) the Chungju Dam. The highlight This is a 133-km course from Mungyeong (Apr. 20) of the Hangang River Course Yeongsangang Estuary to the ➍ Daegu (Apr. 19) Korea is Bukhangang River Railroad Damyang Dam. You can enjoy the cool Busan (Apr. 18) Japan section, which runs along a breeze and refreshing scent of trees in 460-m-long discontinued railway. the Metasequoia-lined Road. Depart Shimonoseki (Apr. 17) Estimated time 9 hours Estimated time 8 hours 50 minutes 034 | Jeju Olle Trail | 035 And Olle begins!

I returned to Jejudo Island in August, arriving from working in dynamic I received a precious gift from this earth, Seoul. My eyes were opened to Olle. I made my way across this incredible network of footpaths and trails and with each sunrise, becoming more I feel 10 Years Younger enchanted with its dazzling landscape. 339 km of passion, a triumphant success and a testament to a people that thanks to the Olle trail are open to , looking at life with widened eyes and that never tire of continued renaissance.

It has been the sensibility, enthusiasm and sheer tenacity of enlightened minds that have made it all possible. Olle’s genesis stems from the sunny Suh Myung-sook, who everyone should have the chance to meet once, perhaps as I did along its meandering paths. With sparkling inventiveness and wonderful childlike liveliness, in just three years she has stitched together extraordinary pieces of places and offers them now to us as a true gift from the earth. It is she who has reawakened the word ‘Olle’, which in local dialect refers to the path between the street and one’s doorstep; it is an emotive threshold space that lies between the precious intimacy of home and the

Baksugijeong Cliifs ⓒShin Byeong-mun genuine need to feel part of society. The ‘Olleans’ have managed to retain this meaning and its intrinsic value while amplifying and opening up these spaces and places to the world. Jejudo Island. Island of Delight. From afar, a form; In this era of mass individualism where one tends to travel more than Closer, a collection of many things… staying put, Olle is a refreshing marvel of those who understand the value From within, a world! and sense of sharing and of reconnecting people with nature. Once inside

On arrival to Jejudo Island, the metamorphosis begins; roots sprout from the feet, anchoring to the ancestral land and arms become the wings with Davide Macullo which to navigate dreams; the senses are saturated, stimulated, dancing Born 1965 in Switzerland. Macullo is a world-famous architect whose works have been exhibited in more with curiosity. One is immediately made to feel part of this ancient, than 10 countries. He has received many awards and recognitions including the top 15 architects of the world in 2010. His works in Korea include the Leeum Museum of Art and the Clubhouse at Jeju bewitching world and welcomed by its people, who live in the midst of its Phoenix Island. In April of 2011, he was invited to the Seoul National University for a special lecture. For Arts. What matters here is the serene vision of reality, a reality that wants more information on the architect or a list of his works visit his website (macullo.com). to understand the power and striking beauty of its imposing Nature. 036

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Oreum ⓒJTO Jusangjeolli Cliffⓒ JTO Rape flowersⓒ JTO Jeju Olle Trail ⓒKTO Oreum ⓒJTO

this wonderland, the uplifted spirit is embraced into a welcoming ancestral -walking across the green hills along the 10th trial, admiring the stunning nest, like a bird creating a home about its feathered body, knowing it will view to the furthest island of Korea that tells the history of the first return to familiar ground after the migration. western people who came to live in this beautiful land; rummaging at the Moseulpo Port Market where tasting the fresh delights and delicacies Olle in a day: of the smiling merchants enchants the senses; leaving the temple below and walking up the carefully tended, (seemingly infinite!) flight of steps Everything and anything can happen in a day and I had time to taste just at Sanbangsan Mountain, to reach Buddha’s rocky cave, carved out of the an unforgettable flavour of some of its 16 trails: imposing mountain. Listening to the touching stories about the island’s famous pearl diving women on the 7th trail, from genteel ladies watching over their And more; walking along salty sandy beaches, beautiful volcanic grandchildren playing in the training pool; chatting with the fisherman; landscapes and woods nestled in dreamy hills; passing the dedicated young admiring the initiative of the people that opened charming guesthouses boys pushing their fully clad girlfriends, dressed for an evening out, on and B&Bs along the breathtaking coastline; spending the entire afternoon floating sunbeds in the sea; visiting art museums, learning about Korean with Dong-soon, a friendly Golden Retriever that had escaped its history in ethnographic villages, collecting souvenirs at the local markets enclosure to guide her new companions. and… horse riding, playing golf, boating, fishing, praying, singing and meeting great people. -relaxing in the calm atmosphere of the Seaes Hotel along the 8th trial Without really having understood why, I left convinced that I became 10 and passing the off-the-beaten-track luxury resorts of the Shilla Jeju and years younger. Hyatt Regency Jeju, set in their fragrant forests and wet by the crashing waves of the sea; meditating in front of a magical view down over the Here, emerging from deep within the crust, the stacked masses of volcanic volcanic rocks and out to the horizon; tentatively tasting the infinite rock express the primeval tensions that created the earth. The glistening variety of delightful rejuvenating dishes with newly made friends, sharing waves of the sea and the wispy folds in the sky channel the imagination to the only wizened fan in the world’s best smallest beachside kitchen in distant lands, to be tracked by curious minds. order to dry off the sweat of the long day’s walk; from there just a short The atmosphere is dense with an extraordinary energy and the majesty of the walk to the fish café to watch the world go by from the ocean terrace landscape teaches us about the respect and humility of people who know that of this deceptively simple teahouse and enjoying exquisite company and harmony in nature is not replicable and that man too is part of its universe. potent potions as guests of one the many well known Seoulites who have I was led to rediscover the roots of the tree of my childhood garden, my come to escape the pace of city life. Mediterranean-Alpine oasis. I discovered a single root that stretches the globe, binding mine with the great tree of Jejudo Island. 038

039 This lesson has stayed with me since my first trip here twenty years ago, Look Inside! and deeply influenced my life. I felt at home here, within the sensibilities of Korean culture, where nature holds its powerful force, even when placed by the gardener or portrayed by the painter. Jeju Olle Trail, Since then, I have reinforced the idea that my own buildings should be an a journey to the inside of Jejudo Island extension of the senses of those who inhabit them. The current trend in Korea is walking tours. And the start of that trend was the Jeju Olle Trails. Instead of relying on the And that is what Olle is. four wheels of the car, let your two feet discover the stories hidden in the winding trails. Become one with nature and the more you walk, the closer you will be to the inside. "Olle” is the Jejudo Island dialect for alley or street. A natural organism, alive and intuitive, one that becomes the extension of the senses. It is like having a long nose, enormous ears, eyes that see 3D, a Follow the Jeju Olle Trail and circle the entire huge mouth and the longest limbs for the strongest embrace. island No instructions needed. Just like for oneself, it is enough to know you exist. Olle is representative walking trail of walking Dombenanggol, which was dubbed the that takes you through the entire island. It is a garden of the gods; the splashing waves of Life can change while walking. trail solely made for walkers, and you can walk the ocean and the parting sea of Seogeondo for as long as you want. In September 2007, Island, these are just a few sites of nature. Experiencing Olle recalls the landscapes occupied by the young Tae- Course 1, which started in Elementary suk. In the film ‘3 Iron’ by Kim Ki-duk, the quiet protagonist Tae-suk School to Gwangchigi Beach in East Jejudo People Who Help You Walk Island, and as of October 2012, there are a There is an Olle Information Desk at the Jeju sneaks into empty houses, not unlike the architect steals into his projects. total of 25 courses that circle the entire island. Int’l Airport. A local volunteer helps you walk He lives clandestinely and carries out domestic chores to cover his stay. the trial by providing any and all information That is until, when coming across a house he had believed to be deserted, you may need. From which course you should he meets Sun-hwa, a beautiful but mistreated wife. The woman secretly Olle Passport walk, to where you should sleep and eat, and observes this strange tenant who moves about the house and between One course is about 15 to 18 km, and takes boat schedules, phone numbers, etc. ask them them they try to find a way to both belong. For Tae-suk, there begins a at least four hours to complete. Although it anything you need to know may seem a bit long, the beautiful view of the [Jeju Olle] Web jejuolle.org Tel Service Bureau 064- whole new journey in search of new spaces to occupy. ocean, and unique villages of the island will 762-2190 Perhaps Tae-suk asks if the charm and beauty of finding the right living ease all the pain and fatigue. A cute souvenir spaces offers a way in which to find a true existence? is the Olle Passport, which provides useful

information of each course, and when you 18-1 Jeju Int’l Airport The simplicity of living Olle calms the spirit. complete the course, you receive a stamp of 20 01-1 19 21 completion. Beauty is enough. 16 18 01 Seeing is forgetting and forgetting frees the mind. 17 Jejudo Island 02 15 Most Famous, Course 7 03 For a brief moment, these thoughts can make a man feel he is at the The course from Oedolgae Rock to Wolpyeong 13 14 (Published October 29th, 2010) centre of the world. Port offers beautiful view of the beachside 04 14-1 and ports. A number of sites in Course 7 have 12 07-1 05 been featured in various Korean dramas and 10 06 09 08 07 movies. The lush sea pines of Oedolgae Rock; 11 10-1 040 | Hiking in Geojedo Island | 041 I’m from the , and I grew up in New England, where hiking is a joyous adventure shared by all generations. Before coming to Korea I was often too busy to spend any real time hiking. I had all but left it to youthful memories. My passion for hiking was rekindled when I came here three years ago to teach at an Uber Genius kindergarten on Geojedo Island. Everywhere you look in Korea there are splendid mountainous ridges whose sharp silhouettes are a beautiful contrast to the green slopes and sunny skies. These ridges called to me. The Geoje Sanmaru-gil Road that I made, Originally, I would hike in the traditional manner of going up, enjoying a snack with my view, and hiking back down again. But, more and more, I wanted to this awesome experience to continue. you will be Over time, I developed enough knowledge of the paths and trails through the ridges on Geojedo Island that I was able to hike many hours shocked a day. I often would spend the whole day on various trails, coming out of the woods just before dark. How thrilling it has been to trek along these peaceful trails past waterfalls, wildlife, rock face sculptures, wildflowers and ancestral graves. On these long treks, all my senses would become pleasantly exhausted. My obsession to stay out longer grew to a point where I kept searching my maps for ways to put many trails together and maximize my time. In this spirit, the Geoje Ridgeline Trail (G. R. T) was born. I founded a trail that runs along a nearly continuous ridgeline. It combines three established hiking ridgelines that run from central Jangpyeong-dong, up over Mountain clear down to the southernmost summit of Mangsan Mountain. The total distance of this trail is 30 km (19 miles.)

Michael Eschenbach

Born 1966 in the United States. He majored in film, and art collaboration, and has worked as English teacher at the Uber Genius English School in Geojedo Island since 2007. He loves nature and enjoys exploring the unexplored. He enjoy hiking and rock climbing in Korea.

Daesobyeongdaedo Island ⓒGeoje-si 042

043 The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly, and it brings the hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most prominent peaks on Geojedo Island. The highest peak, Garasan Mountain, offers views of Japan on clear days. In addition, it also runs past three fortress sites, two historical temple sites and one substantial ruin from the Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp located here during the Korean War. You can get aerial-like views of all major natural attractions on Geojedo Island: Samsung Shipping Industry, Haegeumgang Island of Geoje, Oedo Botania, Dongbaekseom Island, Windy Hill and Sinseondae Cliff film sites. You also see four of the island’s most beautiful beaches at different times during the hike. The first time I attempted the G.R.T., I did it from South to North, and a friend walked with me in the up to the Mangsan Mountain summit at the Southern end. My friend advised me to wait for a better day to begin, but I was committed to do this trek end-to-end and turn my research and idea into reality. Donning full rain gear, I bid him farewell and left the wet and windy summit into the comfort of the darkened woods. I had 5 km to hike to get to where I wanted to camp for the first night. I was carrying much more gear than my normal hikes and that slowed me down a bit as I crossed over the first five peaks of the trail. I finally settled in the woods under some trees. The rains came five times that night, as I camped beneath tarp, but I managed to keep most of my gear from getting too wet. It was a bit unusual not to be home in a dry bed after a full day of hiking ridges, but I worked through my longing for home by planning out the next day. By headlamp I glanced over my map and discovered that by going from South to North I was essentially going uphill most of the way, and that really nagged at me during the first part of the next day. The short connecting trail between Mangsan Mountain and the highest peak of Garasan Mountain turned out to be much tougher and longer with 45 pounds on my back. I had serious doubts about finishing the trail, and thought about giving up and trying it another day, but I thought about how far I had come and decided to continue. I’ve since found that the second day of this hike is when you have to do the lion’s share of the work, so it is wise to assess how you’re doing physically and mentally.

Windy Hill in Geojedo Island is a popular filming location ⓒGeoje-si 044

045 After a snack and some water, I pushed on. It was Chuseok weekend and Look Inside! not many hikers were out. I did run into a mother and daughter, who offered me rice drink and traditional rice cakes. I heartedly accepted; it was great to eat food I didn’t have to carry, and to share time on Chuseok with them. Every walker’s paradise, trail ways of Korea I covered more than 10 km that day, mostly uphill and carrying a lot of weight, but it was exhilarating, and the weather was brilliant. The storm I first started my walking journey in 2007 at the Jeju Olle Trail. There are many beautiful and scenic walking trials in this country. Restored old trails, mountain trails like the ones in Bukhansan and Jirisan mountains, and the clouds from the day before had blow away, revealing all of Geojedo Island’s 600-km-long trail along the East Sea are trail built in recent years. On weekends, people walk and search for a natural beauty. Every labored step I took was rewarded with breathtaking new walking trail, and yet there are still many more hidden trails in Korea. views. I met a few more families also enjoying the day, but essentially I was alone with all this grand Korean landscape. The G. R. T. was as great as I Jirisan Dulle-gil Road Bau-gil Road thought it would be, and I couldn’t wait to share it with others. First opened in April of 2008, as of May 2012, Along with the Jeju Olle Trail and the Jirisan After getting home, I wrote up a guide for the trail and made suggestions the entire road has been opened to the public. Dulle-gil Road, Gangneung-si’s Bau-gil Road on how to accomplish it easily from both directions. I wanted to get The Jirisan Dulle-gil goes around the entire makes up the “Top 3 trails of Korea.” The 350 the word out to Korean and international hikers and make this become foot of Jirisan Mountain, which is Korea’s km trail is divided in 19 courses, and goes a must-do hike in Korea. I have hiked Hallasan Mountain, Jirisan largest mountain, and the first mountain to around Gangneung-si. The courses include: become a national park. This 274-km-long walking the old Road, Mountain, and many more of the higher peaks in Korea, but the G. R. road is divided into 20 courses. This road is a trekking along Seonjaryeong Ridge, walking T., with its constant views of the sea and the challenge of hiking so many road of life, of self-reflection and pilgrimage. It along Gyeongpoho Lake, strolling the beaches peaks in so little time, is thrilling mentally and physically. True hikers and is a journey of responsibility and a journey of of the East Sea, and more. outdoor enthusiasts will love it. It took a week to fully recover from the fairness. Web baugil.org physical demand on my body but, two weeks later, I did it again, and Web trail.or.kr only in Korea have I know this pure hiking joy. (Published December 10th, 2010) Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road The Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road is a representative trail of Seoul visited by more 10 million hikers every year. The 77-km trail circles and Mountain. The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly, Being the first mountain trail in Korea, it has and it brings the hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most been restored and renewed to become the prominent peaks on Geojedo Island. eco-friendly trail that it is today. Each of the 21 course have a different theme and level of difficulty, so make sure to choose the one that suits you best. Web ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil

Remains of the Geojedo POW Camp ⓒMichael Eschenbach 046 | Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea | 047

I was mesmerized by the sight of migratory birds I saw in Suncheonman Bay, Haenam

In different months and in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its colour and mood. Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in the different habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me.

It was in January 1999 when I embraced the icy, cold wind of Korea for the first time, visiting the homeland of my wife. My relationship with Korea since then has been growing stronger and stronger because of Korea’s unique natural beauty.

I have been fascinated by birds since I was a little boy and I have spent all my life watching them in various places in the world. That’s why I was so excited to come to Korea, finding new birds; especially endemic far eastern species.

I started our trip at the Imjingang River and headed south along the western coast. This took us to areas such as Ganghwado Island, Gyeonggiman Bay, Namyangman Bay, Asanman Bay, -si and the Geumgang River estuary. From here we crossed to Haenam-gun, Suncheonman Bay on the south coast.

Martin Sutherland

Born 1954 in London, Sutherland is an ecology research specialist. He married a Korean woman and together have a 10-year-old daughter. He is especially passionate about birds, and he traveled around the world as the leader of bird-watching tours. In London, he worked as the manager of a bird sanctuary, and a preservation center. He is currently collecting data for an environmental effects evaluation, and is studying the ecology of birds. Since his first visit to Korea in 1999 after getting married, he has returned many times

with friends and for bird-watching. Flock of Spectacled teals in Geumgang River ⓒKTO 048

049 I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place. Huge As you know, Korea has many great areas for birding and its wetlands are numbers of waterfowl migrate to Korea for winter, to the vast areas of of international importance for migrant shorebirds, which depend on the tidal flats and coastal lakes and rivers. The numbers of birds here are west coast mud flats for feeding up on their long and hard migrations, truly impressive with thousands of geese flying overhead and countless and for wintering wildfowl. ducks including huge numbers of Baikal teal, looking like smoke from All these birds draw me back to Korea regularly. In different months and a distance when in flight. Flocks of dainty little Saunder’s Gulls and, at in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its colour and mood. one southern bay, a few relict gulls. At a dried river bed several painted Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in the different snipe: one of the first winter records in Korea. Azure-winged magpies habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me. I hope that this unique perching on branches in the early morning sun is another image fixed in Korean beauty will last for many generations to come because it is an my memory.…. I was absorbed with watching them. important asset and will be more so in the future.

After the western coast and southern parts of Korea, I headed up to Over the last decade, I have seen birding becoming a new leisure activity Junam Reservoir and across to the Nakdonggang River estuary then up in Korea. There are several bird watching organisations and web sites the east coast via Guryongpo Port and north as far as Gangneung-si and where I can view posted photographs of birds sighted. I am delighted -si where I turned inland heading for -si and then to see that Korean people are beginning to appreciate and enjoy their down to Daegu. natural environment and appreciate what beauty there is there as a contrast with the extensive industrial and infrastructural developments in I love the eastern coast, so different from the west and south. Every recent years. fishing harbour full of gulls including Glaucous gulls trying to find food around drying squid fields along the eastern coast, various divers, grebes, auks and murrelets on the sea. I was so absorbed by the birds here that my wife was complaining that I came here only for birding. My only excuse was that this first visit to Korea was too short. I was sorry for her, who was a real beginner at that time, having to manage the hard going all day long from to dusk.

Birding was an unusual hobby in Korea all those years ago. Rather than just being a foreigner, wearing binoculars and wandering around the edge of wetlands attracted passers-by even more. Some people would ask what I was up to and expressed curiosity about what they could see through a telescope. Whenever I said that I was watching birds, most looked baffled saying “What birds? Are there any birds?” But as soon as they looked through the telescope, they were amazed with what they saw, beautiful birds feeding in a mud flat.

Flock of geese in Seosanman Bay ⓒMartin Sutherland 050

051 Wildlife tourism is very common in the UK. Many companies provide Look Inside! wildlife holidays to areas all over the world. In Asia popular destinations include India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, , China, , and and so on. Many of these countries actively promote their wildlife attractions and eco-tourism in the UK. A Restful Land, Korea’s Habitat for Migratory Birds I think Korea has great potential (in terms of birds and infrastructure) to be well able to compete with these countries. With more positive Korea is a peninsula located south of the Siberian Shelf. This is why Korea has become a migratory route for birds, promotion campaigns abroad, Korea should make more practical and especially in the winter. In the ice cold days of winter, birds leave Siberia for warmer countries in the south, like Korea. Many rare birds can be seen Korea during the winter, here are some popular habitats for migratory birds. realistic efforts than now towards the conservation of important habitats and avian biodiversity. It will be a good example of the “green growth” Cheonsuman Bay Suncheonman Bay which Korea is pursuing. I hope that one day I will receive eco-tourism Cheonsuman is a large reclamation located in Seosan- Suncheonman Bay is the must-visit site for eco- travel brochures in the UK showing destination to Korea. si, Chungcheongnam-do. In 1979, it became a symbol of tourists. Picture a tall field of reeds with a trail running economic growth, for reclaiming land and turning it into through the middle and the glowing sun setting When the icy cold wind returns, I would love to stand where I was farmland, but today’s Cheonsuman Bay is more popular on the back. This is the beauty of Korea’s nature. before with my child to greet the winter birds, my old friends. My as a habitat for birds. 327 species of winter migratory Suncheonman Bay is one of the very few places daughter often pesters us to visit Korea again. I am as keen on the idea as birds were discovered in Cheonsuman, and there are where hooded cranes have been spotted wintering. she is and especially miss the bird-rich bays and estuaries of the coasts. records of more than 600,000 birds seen on a single day. Photographers and ornithologists from around the Cheonsuman is especially known for spectacled teals. world come to Suncheonman Bay for a chance to see (Published July 8th, 2011) Close to 300,000 Baikal teals have been seen in Korea on a hooded crane. a single day, that’s about 90 % of the global population Web suncheonbay.go.kr of Baikal teal. Photographers and nature journalists from around the world come to Korea in November to Cheorwon Plains photograph the herds of Baikal teals. The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Cheorwon-gun, Web seosanbird.com Gangwon-do, is where red-crowned cranes and I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place. eagles, both endangered species, winter. Red- Geumgang Estuary crowned cranes and eagles standing on snow- Baikal teals were also spotted in Geumgang Estuary covered fields is a site easily seen in Cheorwon-gun. in -si, Jeollabuk-do. As the winter days get Located within the civilian passage control line, they colder, by December the Baikal teals fly further south have strict entrance rules. Prior notice must be given to the Geumgang River, and finally all the way south to to the military base. Cheorwon-gun operates a bird- Yeongamho Lake in Haenam-gun, or to Junam Reservoir watching bus from December to February. in -si. The high waters of the Geumgang Web tour.cwg.go.kr River and the lush fields of reeds are an ideal habitat for migratory birds. The city of Gunsan built a bird watching facility in the estuary in 2003, and hosts a migratory bird festival every year. Web gmbo.kr

Hooded cranes in Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO 052 | Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain | 053

A life spent falling in love with the four seasons of Namsan Mountain, a life already 21 years old

I joined Hyatt International in 1983 and worked in and New Zealand for 8 years as a general manager. After that I was transferred to Grand Hyatt Seoul in March, 1991. Although I had visited Asia before, I had been to Korea only once. Since then, I have grown increasingly close to Korea over the years. I can say there are many reasons that I love Korea ⓒKTO but in particular I enjoy the passion of its people, the outstanding Korean food, and my life blood and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain.

When I travel the world, I always head to the local observatory located in the heart of the city, first. By standing on the observation deck, I Peter Walshaw can recognize my location and attain a feel for the city’s layout and Born 1952. Walshaw first entered Hyatt International in 1983. He started as the general manager of the atmosphere through the observatory’s panoramic view. Hyatt Regency in New Zealand, then moved to the Hyatt Regency Dubai, then to the Hyatt Regency Auckland, and in 1991 came to the Hyatt Regency Seoul. In 1994 he was the Hyatt International “Manager of the Year.” As of 2012, he is the vice president of the North Asia region of Hyatt Corporation, and When I arrived in Korea I was immediately surprised by the number of general manager of the Grand Hyatt Seoul and three other Hyatt hotels in Korea and two in . mountains. In the case of Seoul, the Hangang River passes through the 054

055 center of the city and is surrounded by mountains, so nature and the urban Tower with a cool wind at my back, I always marvel at the spectacular environment here, both live in an exquisite harmony. Namsan Mountain is skyline of the city. located only 265 m above sea level, so it doesn’t seem that high. But when I first hiked to the top of the mountain, a dramatic, scenic panorama came Going to the opposite side of N Seoul Tower, I can see the north into view that I hadn’t expected. Namsan Mountain itself is the greatest circular road leading to the castle road. I can smell the scent of lilacs and observation point for the city, and N Seoul Tower, perched on its summit, cherry blossoms in spring and hear the sound of rippling water, filled is the perfect place to take in the entirety of Seoul. From there, you can with the sounds of the lush forest in summer. In the fall, the autumn have an unobstructed, 365 degree view of the city. leaves turn into a palette of red, yellow and green colors. There is this beautiful road with different colors every season, with some of the most I hiked Namsan Mountain for the first time in March 1991 although at impressive scenery I have ever witnessed. The castle road can present you that time there was only limited access to the mountain as most of the with a perspective of Korean history and culture. I especially enjoy the area was closed off to the public. Since then walking paths and parks have panoramic views from the castle road overlook, with its views of the city been added which has made it an ideal place for recreation and walking of Seoul. A little further away, you can discover the Namsangol Hanok in a wonderful, natural and peaceful environment. Village and Chungmuro station. It takes about 3 hours. That’s not an easy walk, but well worth the effort. A few years ago I used to take walks with I love Namsan Mountain as much as anyone and I feel very lucky to live my dog. When I reached Chungmuro station, I would have to take a taxi in such a nice environment. I often think “what can we do for Namsan home because the dog was exhausted. Mountain?” Hyatt International has annually held a special event and campaign called ‘Staff Day’. We are always engaged in Namsan Mountain preservation programs. Every year 200 employees walk to the top of Namsan Mountain to clean the grounds. A few years ago we replaced the steel structures supporting the trees and planted new trees.

Namsan Mountain is changing day by day. Namsan Mountain has If someone asks me what my favorite become a resting place for people in Seoul with its well-maintained trails, Korean food is, since I have been living wild roses, lush trees and other amenities. There are an ever increasing in Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that number of people who take walks or go trekking. I usually enjoy hiking I love and sticky rice. the mountain from Grand Hyatt Seoul to N Seoul Tower, as the hotel is directly connected via a bridge to the wildflowers park. Going along the red asphalt road, I can often spot rabbits and pheasants in the wildflower park. There are constantly visible changes of the season at Namsan Mountain all the time, such as the cherry blossoms in the Spring, the autumn leaves in fall and the beauty of nature year round. After hiking around the mountain, I can quench my thirst with a drink of water from the natural, mineral-water spring, which is an excellent relief to both physical and mental stress. When I’m standing at the top of N Seoul Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒPeter Walshaw 056

057 After I go on a hike, I always have doenjang jjigae (된장찌개). If someone Look Inside! asks me what my favorite Korean food is, since I have been living in Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that I love doenjang jjigae and sticky rice. I usually order it for lunch or dinner when I eat Korean food or BBQ. The bean paste smells really wonderful in doenjang jjigae. When I Namsan Dulle-gil Road taste just a bit, I can distinguish between homemade doenjang jjigae and & Seoul Fortress Wall Road the supermarket versions. What I order from the menus reflects just how much I know about Korean Culture. Only about 260 m above sea level, Namsan Mountain has two pleasant walking trails: the quiet Dulle-gil Road that hugs Namsan Mountain, and the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, which trails along Seoul Fortress. As you walk the trails of Namsan Mountain, you will find yourself immersed in the generosity and energy of this beautiful mountain. I would say that the greatest attraction of my profession has been the opportunity to travel the world, meet different people and experience their culture. From the day I first arrived in Korea, I was attracted to the country, even to this date. Korea has become a second home to me. My life and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain, means a lot to me. By going to Namsan Mountain, I can look at Seoul’s history and culture, as well as its rapid growth and transition. I still hike Namsan Mountain and Seoul Fortress Wall ⓒLee Gang-deok drink in its energy, every day I am in Korea. (Published October 14th, 2011) Namsan Dulle-gil Road Centered on N Seoul Tower, this is road circles circling Hanyang. The fortress wall runs along the mountain. In 2011 the entire Namsan the ridgelines of Bugaksan, and Mountain became car-free, which meant that Namsan mountains, and through the reigns all driving roads became pedestrian walkways. of Kings Sejong and Yeongjo, the wall got There are 15 entrance ways to Dulle-gil Road, stronger and tougher. This 600 year old among them, the Myeong-dong Station fortress wall was heavily damaged during the (Subway Line 4) entrance by the Namsan Japanese Rule, but parts of it still remain and Public Library, and the Dongguk Univ. Station have been restored. The Namsan Mountain (Subway Line 3) entrance by the National zone on the south, starts at Sungnyemun Theater of Korea are the most crowded. A Gate and continues to Baekbeom Plaza bus runs through the section between the Jung-geun Memorial Hall Jamdubong Peak Namsan Public Library and the National Photo Island Palgakjeong Pavilion N Seoul Theater of Korea, but that is the only section Tower Pine Tree Trail National Theater that allows vehicles. The Namsan Dulle-gil is of Korea Jangchung Gymnasium. It takes 7.6 km long and it takes about 2.5 hours to about 3 hours to reach the peak and come complete. down. If you go back to the Dongdaemun direction from Namsan Mountain, going Seoul Fortress Wall Road around the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, you can Founder of the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo see National Treasure No. 8, as well as 168 built the capital in Hanyang, today’s Seoul. cultural heritage sites. N Seoul Tower is located in the heart of a colorful city ⓒvisitseoul.net And in 1396 he built an 18 km fortress wall 058 | Photo Journey of Korea | 059

The intoxicating orange light from the rising sun,

I had fallen in love with the East Coast Sunrise over the East Sea ⓒLeigh MacArthur

The cool breeze is sweeping in off of the water. The symphony of Yet, I was hooked. The amount of history, culture, and wonderful the sea's waves lap up to the shore, coupled with the various sea birds' welcoming people that one can experience within walking distance of singing to greet the morning's light is a truly peaceful time. The climax any line #2 subway station is amazing. Something was missing. I didn't of the sun breaking the horizon is both haunting and empowering. Land want my entire Korean experience to be a Seoul experience. I knew of the Morning Calm you say? I for one concur. there was more to the country. So I garnered up enough courage to leave the comfortable English confines of the big city and explore. At the same I love to travel. When I first came to Korea, one of the first things I did time, I was attempting to teach myself a new set of skills, in photography. was to buy a camera. I wanted to document the history and culture of Korea during this wonderful chance that I had. When the time came, I My quest of learning the craft of photography has since taken me all realized that one year was not long enough. I needed more time. After over the country, exploring, trying to find those once in a lifetime shots. all, I hadn't even been outside of Seoul's city limits. I couldn't believe In my travels, I have met a lot of great people. It's the people that make how big a city Seoul was, and how easy it was to spend an entire year in a country great. It's the people that you remember about a place. It's the city, until I realized I had spent 2 full years without having ventured the people that make you remember events like they were yesterday. outside the green #2 subway loop. I remember my first day in Korea like it happened last week, it really happened just over 8 years ago. It's the people that make me want to photograph this wonderful country in all its wonder and grandeur to show off to the world, and to prove to myself that Seoul alone is not Leigh MacArthur Korea, and Korea is not only Seoul. It was suggested that with all of my Born 1974 in Canada. MacArthur has been teaching English in Korea since 2003. He currently lives in -si, and since 2007, he’s been teaching photography. He travels around the country that I could write about and share my favorite has a number of photos that were featured in magazines in Korea and abroad, and places that I have photographed. I thought to myself, "Well, that's going a few works have received international recognition. He is an active member of the Seoul, Korea City Hall Circle of photographers. You can see photos by MacArthur at to be easy. I have such great memories of so many of my trips that I his website (leighmacarthur.com). could easily fill a book's worth of material." Oops, how wrong I was. 060

061 For this article, I wanted to choose one place and give to it what it I live in a city called Samcheok-si. Samcheok-si, is known for 2 things, deserves: a well thought out, detailed story and explanation of why I love really. One... the caves. Hwanseongul Cave is the largest limestone cave this area of Korea. When I started to think about which place it could be, in Asia. Considering the size of Asia, and the number of mountains there were just too many... and caves in Asia, it is an impressive title to have. All in all, there are about 55 caves located within Samcheok-si's city limits, giving it the Gyeongju-si. Check. Busan's Haeundae. Check. Seoraksan Mountain. nickname "Cave City". The second thing that Samcheok-si is known for Check. Gangneung's Gyeongpodae Pavilion and Jeongdongjin. Check is Haesindang Park, or as it's lovingly known in some foreigner circles as and check. There have been a lot of festivals, too. I could fill an entire "Penis Park". Haesindang Park really has become quite popular, not only article listing the festivals alone. with tourists but with travel and lifestyle magazines all over the world, as 2 European magazines have contacted me personally about using my The green festival in Boseong-gun... It was raining and foggy, photos of the park, and I'm sure there are a lot of other photographers and underestimating the popularity of the event, my accommodations who have come and had their photographs published as well. Those are were far from pristine, so for me, it was a perfect recipe to be a great places, and very much worth a 3-4 day vacation, to come to see. disaster, and make me miserable. I did manage to accomplish two things. First, I was lucky enough to capture, one of my all time For me, they were the selling points, they got me out here, those two favorite photographs. and remembering the strange looking trees that lined the main street. Second, Boseong-gun managed to become one of my favorite places That was 4 years ago. It's the little things that has kept me here, and in all of Korea. It was refreshing just to be there. I felt healthier just has secured my desire to stay and share Samcheok-si with the world. being there. I wanted to come here every chance I got. I still do. Samcheok-si has probably one of the widest varieties of scenery and weather in the world all within a 20 km radius. You can experience Boseong-gun is one of those places that is popular all year round except spring, summer, autumn, winter, sun, snow, rain, typhoons, thunderstorms, maybe in winter, (luckily for me) with Koreans and foreigners alike. rainbows. There are sandy beaches between rocky shores on one side, and mountains, streams, waterfalls, caves, and farmland on the other side. One of my goals is to share the lesser known areas of the country. Deer, boars, and the occasional cow running around free, not to mention

This brings me to Gangwon-do. After 4 years of living and working in Seoul, I felt it time for a change. That need for change led me to remember a time when I had visited Sokcho-si and how relaxing the morning was, as I sat on the boardwalk in Daepo Port, with my coffee, watching the fishing boats return with their catches. Earlier that morning, I had been watching the sunrise from Sokcho Beach, and the power of that first blast of orange light was intoxicating.

I had to land a job on the east coast. It really didn't matter where, it just had to be on the east coast. I love it here. This is my home. This is why I love Korea. Chuam Beach ⓒLeigh MacArthur 062

063 the sheer number of birds that call this area home, as well as the number Look Inside! of birds that stop here for a break while migrating.

Living here coupled with my enjoyment of photography has given me a much greater appreciation for nature. I can't think of many other places Leigh’s Favorite Places to Take Landscape Photos where if I turn left going out of my front door I could be at the seashore in 5 minutes, or if I decide to turn right, I'd be in the mountain forests The landscape of Korea changes with the seasons. Flowers bloom, grass gets greener, tree leaves redden and snow piles. And then again, flowers bloom. The ever changing phases of nature whisper an unforgettable story looking at a waterfall in those same 5 minutes. This is why I love Korea. to its viewers. Leigh MacArthur’s camera captured the beautiful landscape of Korea. This brings me to the people. As I stated earlier, it is the people that make the biggest impressions in our daily lives. The people here have been unbelievable. There have been many times that I have forgotten that I'm a foreigner and a visible minority. Even though I can, after 8 years, barely string a sentence together in Korean, I am treated like family. This is why I love Korea. One day last year, there was a rather amazing Chuam ⓒKTO Mureung Valley ⓒKTO Boseong Tea Farm ⓒKTO rainbow in the sky as the local baseball team that I play with was having practice. One of my teammates asked me what I was looking at. Chuam Beach A coastal cliff, clean and clear fields of winter, and the sprouting of crystal clean water sourcing waters of the East Sea, and green leaves of spring create from Dutasan Mountain trickles I said while pointing to the sky "That rainbow." sparkly white sand is what make a picture perfect scene for the down unique rock formations and Chuam Beach special. The pointy camera. mossy rocks. The sparkly clear He looked up for about 2 seconds and said "Oh." Chotdaebawi Rock, literally Address 1288-1 Bongsan-ri, Boseong- waters flowing through Mureung eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Candlestick Rock, is a favorite Valley keep shutters busy. This is a Web dhdawon.com I said, excitedly waving my hands in an arching motion, "Look at that, spot amongst photographers. true photographer’s paradise. Every morning, a long line of Address 859 Samhwa-dong, Donghae-si, Gyeongju Rapeseed Flowers it's huge!" Gangwon-do Web dhtour.go.kr photographers stand on the In the millennial city of Gyeongju, shore waiting for their chance to even spring makes a dramatic He said nonchalantly, "This is Samcheok-si. We get rainbows all the capture the glowing sun rising entrance. Silla’s Banwolseong time." over Chotdaebawi Rock. Fortress is covered in bright yellow Address 26 Chotdaebawi-gil, Donghae- rapeseed flowers. The beautiful site si, Gangwon-do Web gangwon.to This is why I love Korea. He's right. Because of all of the geographical of pink cherry blossoms filling the features, and weather patterns, Samcheok-si does seem to get an air above bright yellow rapeseed Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation flowers can only be seen for about abnormal amount of rainbows. Tea trees draw an outline along 2 weeks in mid-April guide. the foot of the mountain. Daehan Address 387-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongju- Dawon, the country’s largest Every single one, that I've seen, has blown me away. Personally, I have si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Web gyeongju. always associated rainbows with special places. This is definitely one of green tea plantation is located go.kr those special places. in Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Province. Lush green tea fields Mureung Valley show off their gentle beauty all This valley resembles China’s This is why I love Korea. (Published October 28th, 2011) year round. The snow-covered Mureungdowon Paradise. A stream 064 | Tour of Ulleungdo Island | 065 Which is the most impressive place in your trip to Korea? During the three and a half years I have lived in Korea, I am always asked the above question when I say my hobby is travelling, and my answer is “Ulleungdo Island”. Ulleungdo Island is a well known island but not many people When you’ve missed the last boat, have actually been there. A boat trip from -si in Gyeongsangbuk- do Province for about three hours gets you there. Ulleungdo Island is the that’s when you get to see 9th largest island in Korea. the generosity of Ulleungdo Island I came to know about the charm of this island in cold winter, 2002. During my language study in Korea, I came to join “Ulleungdo camp” as the only foreigner among 60 other Korean students after I learned about the camp from a bulletin board at the university. Departing from Seoul in the middle of night, I felt like I was a dead person when I arrived on the island after changing buses and boats for one and a half days. But the landscape before me blew away such exhaustion. The island seemed to remain naturally pristine and wild as if time had stopped, which made all of us fascinated. I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes a silvery universe covered in white snow. I was impressed by the color and size of the fiery sunset walking along the beach.

Muroya Madoka 室谷圆

Born 1981 in Japan, Madoka Muroya studied International Development in college and researched the regional cultures of Korea. Her first visit to Korea was in 2002 for a 6-month language learning program. She returned to Japan with unpleasant mixed feelings and unpleasant experiences of Korea, but in 2008, she came back to further study the cultural exchange between Korea and Japan. She has worked at the Busan International Film Festival and the Korea-Japan Festival, and as of 2012, is in charge of the Japanese

Ulleungdo Island ⓒKTO website of the Global U-tourism Team of the Korea Tourism Organization. 066

067 8 years later, I came to work in Korea and visited this island again on the tour for Koreans with my Japanese girlfriend during my leave at work. In 8 years, there has been a bit of change such as a few more stores occupying the center of the island and improved transportation to tourist attractions but time was passing ever so slowly and nature has remained the same as before. The changing colors of leaves was in full swing so the mountains were ablaze with many different colors and we could enjoy clean fresh air to our satisfaction.

One day, we stopped by a restaurant operated by an old couple and there were already some islanders. We decided to go to another restaurant as there were no spaces left but people squeezed, squashed and offered us seats. Although it was tight and crowded I felt like being in a family gathering. Young ladies in the crowd proposed Ulleungdo Island’s famous pumpkin : a fermented alcoholic rice drink and we toasted together. We could enjoy a delicious meal surrounded by a warm and friendly atmosphere as if we were with our old friends.

Ulleungdo Island’s beautiful landscape is well known to Koreans and we could meet a lot of tourists everywhere. We often met middle- aged tourists on a group tour laughing and talking loudly wherever we went. It is quite natural that many people gather in nice places but I felt too much noise without considering others was a bit unpleasant. Once I lined up for a rest room, but a couple of people from a group cut in before me, which made my eyebrows go up. It seemed that they had their company in front but I was not very pleasant because they never asked for my understanding. For everyone to have a pleasant trip, I felt that thoughtful conderation about others Snow covered winter in Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka and keeping orders are essential.

I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes a silvery universe covered in white snow. 068

069 I think the joy of a travel is a pleasant happening involving others at an Look Inside! unknown place. However, when I was told that the boat could not depart from Ulleungdo Island, I began to regret the trip and reflected upon my life, fearing that I would not be able to leave the island. Nonetheless this gave me a chance to know more about Ulleungdo Island and to make Ulleungdo’s neighboring island, Dokdo friends with the owner of the lodging place who gave us a discount on the room rate of our extended stay. I think I felt a real affection “200-ri southeast of Ulleungdo Island, is a lonely island home to migratory birds.” This is a song that almost every Korean will know. "Dokdo Island is Our Land." Dokdo Island is the easternmost territory of Korea, and on a which you can find only in Korea by drinking together and sharing clear day, it’s visible from Ulleungdo Island. love stories with women staying at the same lodging at night. I would like to continue my travelling in Korea in future in the search of a new encounter and to share such experiences with many people. (Published January 27th, 2012)

Dokdo Island ⓒKTO

Dokdo Island, a Treasure Trove of Island Ecology Dokdo Island is a volcanic island composed of of King Sejong), written in 1454, that Dokdo Dong-do (East Isle) and Seo-do (West Isle), and is Korean territory. Also in 1900, during the 89 rock islets. It has a total area of 187,554 m2, , officials declared that Dokdo and it is a nature preservation area designated Island is Korean territory. And finally in as Natural Monument No. 336 of Korea. It 1948, with the establishment of the Korean has a mild maritime climate with average government, Dokdo Island was given the annual temperatures of 12 ℃. On a clear day official address of “1 Do-dong, Nam-myeon, it can be seen from Ulleungdo Island, and as Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do.” a migratory route of birds, fork-tailed petrels,

black-tailed gulls, kestrels, Chinese egrets and How to Tour Dokdo Island a number of other birds can be seen on the The tour of Dokdo Island begins in Ulleungdo island. Over 60 different types of plants and Island. It takes about two hours from more 130 species of insects make up Dokdo Ulleunghang Port to Dokdo Island, and a boat Islands’ ecosystem. with a capacity of 400 passengers runs from Ulleungdo Island to Dokdo Island many times Dokdo Island in History throughout the day. Due to the unstable It was first introduced in Korean history maritime climate, about half the time the port in AD 512, when Silla’s General Isabu is closed. But, on clear days, the sounds of conquered the island, which was formerly seagulls, the emerald green waters, the rocky the autonomous nation of Usanguk. It is island and much more will draw a picture in Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka recorded in the Sejong Sillok (Royal Annals your eyes that will never be erased. 070 Heritage 071

Onrie Kompan Marco Ienna of Korea General Yi Sun-sin Taekwondo – – Tony Wheeler G. Santhasiri Panmunjeom & the DMZ Templestay – – Mary Jane Liddicoat Kogure Makoto , Seoul The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain

T r a d i t i o n & H i s t o r y ⓒShin Byeong-mun 072 | General Yi Sun-sin | 073 Korea has always been a fantastical place for me. I had visited once before when I studied taekwondo in 2000 and really enjoyed it. I finally went back 8 years later and am now planning by third trip. When I first began researching YI SUN-SIN: WARRIOR AND DEFENDER, I knew that I would eventually have to journey there in General! order to learn more about the country and its national hero. For two years, I had very vivid dreams of one day standing before the I get very emotional seeing you standing in the famous statue of Yi Sun-sin in Seoul and actually stepping inside an middle of Seoul with a big sword actual turtle ship. I was anxious to learn more about where Admiral Yi came from and how he lived his life. Two long years went by and my dream finally came true. It took me about six months to figure out the most essential things I needed to see on my trip. The Korean Tourism Organization in Chicago helped me work out all of the logistics. I couldn’t even believe that this was all really happening. Even though I was traveling alone, I was very excited to finally enter the world I had spent years reading about. In just 14 days, I traveled to almost every essential destination in Korea Bronze statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin in Plaza ⓒKTO pertaining to Yi Sun-sin, as well as other essential moments in Korean history. I visited Seoul, Jinhae-si, -si, -si, Busan, Andong-si, and finally returned back to Seoul. A few years ago, I was introduced to the KBS drama THE IMMORTAL I stood on top of a huge mountain in -si overlooking the entire YI SUN-SIN. After watching it, I was so inspired that I wanted to share village thinking of what life was like in this very place 400+ years ago. this story with everyone I knew. I wondered the same thing as I stood under the Sebyeonggwan Hall However, the TV show was very difficult to find in the US and a lot of (the very place where the Korean Navy trained during the Imjin War- people I knew found it very hard to follow. And so I set off to retell Yi Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592). Sun-sin’s story as a comic book so that people could pick it up easily. I was there. In the moment. Absorbed by total peace and tranquility. I chose to do this as a comic book because I had a life long passion for I breathed nothing but fresh mountain air in the Soraksan Mountain. working in this medium. American comics are known for stories that Smelled the harvest in Yeosu-si. It took me no time at all to truly have a strong emphasis on super heroes. However, within the last 10-15 put myself in the shoes of my case study. It was amazing! years, the industry has evolved and different genres have become more popular within the medium.

In light of stories such as Frank Miller’s 300, I decided that the American Onrie Kompan audience may find Yi Sun-sin’s story to be interesting if it was presented Onrie Kompan (26) is a young man from the U.S. who was deeply touched by the to them in an entertaining way. General Yi Sun-sin. He wrote a 12 volume comic book about the life of General Yi, and for that he came to Korea for 14 days. He said he’s writing this comic book I knew that if I was going to do this that it had to be done right. I because he believes General Yi is a true hero. He says he’s willing to go anywhere if it needed the best artists that the industry had to offer. But before that, I is related to the General. needed to do a ton of research. 074

075 Every crevice of Korea had something fresh and unique to offer. Whether Look Inside! it was watching the sunrise in the port town of Jinhae-si, marveling at the beauty of the of the Bulguksa Temple, or feeling the strong Siberian winds as they beat down on Sokcho-si. It was all very thrilling! Seoul is by far one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited in my life. A Journey Following the Life of It is so much cleaner than Chicago yet jam-packed with kiosks and food Admiral Yi Sun-sin stands and gorgeous architecture that is known only to Korea. Every time I visit this Korea, it leaves me breathless and wanting more. I Along with King , who invented the Korean alphabet, Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545—1598) is the was there for only 14 days but could have easily stayed much longer. most respected Korean figure. During the Japanese invasion of 1592, he built the turtle-shaped warship called the Geobukseon, and drove out the enemy, and he also lead the country to many victories. The life of the admiral Nothing was more rewarding though than actually standing before the continues from Seoul, all the way to Namhae. Yi Sun-sin statue in Seoul.

When I first saw it, I felt like I had discovered a rare treasure. I’ll never Hyeonchungsa Shrine forget what it was like to finally be standing before it. The house where Yi lived after he Joseon Dynasty moved in to what death, November 19 of the lunar I felt the same way as I entered the military base of the Republic of Korea got married and the shrine that used to be the Admiral’s command calendar. One of the more popular Navy and saw a large Geobukseon replica docked at the port. As I stepped preserves Yi’s memorial tables post. Geobukbawi Rock (Turtle relic sites of Yi is Jeseungdang are located here. Hyeonchungsa Rock) and Janggunbawi Rock Hall, the naval base during the inside, I imagined what it was like when soldiers were crammed inside Shrine was built in 1706 to (General’s Rock) can still be seen in Japanese Invasion of 1592. going off to war under Admiral Yi’s command. It was a dream come true. commemorate Yi’s significant Sado Island, an island in the front Address [Changnyangmyo Shrine] 8 Dang- dong, -si, Gyeongsangnam- While visiting these different villages and living my dreams, I met some contributions to the history of waters of Yeosu. do, [Chungnyeolsa Shrine] 213 Address [Jinnamgwan Hall(Jeolla very interesting people including the ancestor of Ryu Seong-ryong (a Korea. Every year on April 28, Myeongjeong-dong, Tongyeong-si, jwasuyeong Shipyard)] 471 Gunja- political ally of Yi Sun-sin during the Imjin War). I remember having the day he was born, a memorial Gyeongsangnam-do, [Yi Sun-sin Park] dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do, [Sado] 683 Jeongnyang-dong, Tongyeong- service is held in the family Hwajeong-myeon, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam- coffee with him in his home. He had never been to Chicago, which is si, Gyeongsangnam-do, [Jeseungdang shrine. Inside the museum are the do Web ystour.kr where I’m from, but was very familiar with it. Hall] Yeomho-ri, Hansan-myeon, ‘Nanjungilgi,’ a war diary he kept Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do Korea’s people take great pride in their history and culture. They are for 7 years during the Japanese Tongyeong Web utour.go.kr what make this wonderful country worth visiting. They have very proper Invasion of 1592 (Imjin War), the Tongyeong-si is where the Hadong-Sancheong Baeguijang and respectful etiquette and I have an immense amount of appreciation sword, the blueprints for the Admiral’s achievements shone gun-ro (Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s Historical for their devotion to native tradition. I’m grateful to them for being so Geobukseon battleship, and more. the brightest. The Admiral died Path of fight in a war as an enlisted man) Address 100 Baegam-ri, Yeomchi-eup, in 1598 during the naval battle of welcoming to foreigners. In 1597, Yi was falsely accused and Asan-si, Chungcheongnam-do Noryang. The very next year, the I am forever changed from my frequent visits to Korea. It is a very Web hcs.go.kr removed from his post. According to grieving people of Tongyeong- charming country filled with so much history and culture and I’m truly records in ‘Nanjungilgi’ (War Diaries Yeosu si built a thatch-roof shrine called blessed to be able to do venture out and see it. of Yi Sun-sin), he walked an 18 km In 1591, the Admiral was appointed Changnyangmyo Tomb to honor hiking trail from Hadong-gun to I now plan to attend the Yi Sun-sin festival this year and am very excited Jeollajwado Sugunjeoldosa , his patriotism. Also in Tongyeong- Sancheong-gun while serving in the about it. I will be visiting Korea again in May 2010 in order to celebrate commander-in-chief of the si is the Yi Sun-sin Park, which war as a common soldier. You can western Jeolla area, to Yeosu- houses a large bronze statue of Yi Sun-sin’s birthday and will have plenty of copies of my book on hand. follow the trail and feel the Admiral’s si. Here he began to build his the Admiral, and Chungnyeolsa The first two chapters of my book will be available for purchase and I’m compassion for his country. famous Geobukseon battleship, Shrine, which has the Admiral’s really looking forward to sharing it with Korea. Address Danseong-myeon, Sancheong- and trained his army. In later years, relics, and where memorial rites gun, Gyeongsangnam-do I really hope that they will enjoy it! (Published October 14th, 2010) Jinnamgwan Hall, the naval base of are still held on the date of his 076 | Panmunjeom & the DMZ | 077 Some places in the world you only see from one side. You look in one direction or the other, up or down, east or west, but never in both direction. So from North Korea you can look south or from South Korea look north, not many people can try both views. I’ve been very fortunate to gaze across the DMZ in both directions. I’ve travelled down Ah, so heart breaking! to the DMZ from and looked across to the south, and up to the DMZ from Seoul and looked across to the north.

Only a few steps separate Many years of intensive travel have taken me to many other strange borders and dividing lines. In 1972 I crossed the border from Pakistan to the south to the north India, the conflict between the two countries which led to the birth of Bangladesh had ended less than 12 months earlier and relations between the two countries were still raw. In 1972 the border was only open for three hours a week. Nearly 40 years later the frontier still closes down every night. It’s very far from being an open border.

In 1991 with a German friend I bicycled along the route of the Berlin Wall, it was already often difficult to trace the path of the barrier which had divided East Germany from West Germany less than 24 months earlier. Yet only months before the wall came down the division between the two Germanys had seemed indestructible. My German friends underlined that even the day before the separation came to an end it seemed like it could go on forever.

In Panmunjeom, where both South Korea and North Korea exist (South Korea to the left, North Korea to the right) ⓒTony Wheeler

Tony Wheeler

Born 1946 in London, Tony Wheeler is the founder of Lonely Planet. In 1972, him and his wife, Maureen Wheeler set off on a year-long Asia overland trip. With on 27 cents left at the end of the trip, the two decide to publish their travel diaries into the Lonely Planet. Over the years, the book reached yearly sales of over 7 million copies, that’s 25% of the industry, and has become every traveler’s bible. The couple still spends over half of the year traveling. Panmunjeom ⓒKTO 078

079 I had Berlin very much in my mind when I travelled up to the DMZ Look Inside! from Seoul. This is an artificial border I thought, the people on both sides are essentially the same, they speak the same language, until very recently they shared the same history. Throughout my travels to the north of the DMZ I could not help feeling that I was on a movie set, that what Rediscovery of the DMZ I was seeing and experiencing was not reality. I felt like I was visiting a 2 Hollywood movie version of reality, not a place in the real world. The Korean War ended in 1953 with the signing of an armistice. A 900 km DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), 2 km north and south of the ceasefire line, was created on both North and South Korea. Ironically, this area which is completely closed off is a haven of rare animals and plants. In recent years, the DMZ has become an area of That surreal existence reaches the height of unreality at the DMZ. interest in terms of ecology, research and tourism. The reality, you keep thinking, is that the two cities are just 200 km apart. Surely that division cannot be so decisive and yet at the same time so artificial? The alternative reality is that the two are a world apart, but that’s not a reality I believe in. One day the DMZ will simply disappear and a few years later – just like the Berlin Wall which disappeared so comprehensively that it was hard to even trace where it Hwajinpo Lake ⓒKTO Hantangang River ⓒKTO used to stand – it will be hard to believe it ever existed. (Published June 18th, 2010)

Panmunjeom, Proof of a Divided Nation DMZ, a Natural Ecological Treasure Trove Korea is the only divided country in the world, The DMZ divided the Korean peninsula into the and the Panmunjeom has become a symbol of North and South. The western section belongs division. It is located in -si, Gyeonggi-do, within to Gyeonggi-do and the eastern section is part military boundaries, and is the only place where of Gangwon-do. The Gyeonggi-do section of South-North talks are held. Before the Korean the DMZ crosses -si, -si, Paju-si War, it was a small rural area, but since the truce and Yeoncheon-gun, and takes less than 2 hours talks on October 25, 1953, it became the center from Seoul, which is why it is a popular “Security of attention worldwide. After the signing of an Tourism” area. You can visit the Dora Observatory, armistice in 1953, the UN and North Korea officially which is the closest observatory from North Korea, declared this area as the JSA (). and the 3rd Tunnel, which was dug by the North The area where the Military Armistice Commission to invade the South. Gangwon-do is actually and the UN War Correspondent Center were divided by the DMZ, and the province has shown located has been replaced by the Unification interest in the ecology tourism of DMZ. Trekking Park, Imjingak Pavilion, which was built to console tours are becoming highly popular for the red- the hearts of the displaced people, the Freedom crowned cranes, black-faced spoonbills, and other House, and about 10 other buildings. To the west 67 endangered species of birds that have been of Panmunjeom is Neolmundari Bridge, which spotted in the Gyeonggi-do section of the DMZ. is referred to as the “bridge of no return.” In 2011, In the Cheorwon-gun area of the Gangwon-do most of the more than 2.33 million foreign tourists DMZ, ostrich experience centers and other ecology that visited Gyeonggi-do also visited Panmunjeom. observation programs are being operated.

Panmunjeom ⓒKTO 080 | Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul | 081

Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park and the Asian Art Museum, a cluster of Seoul Charm

Bukchon Hanok Village ⓒKTO

Mary Jane Liddicoat

Born 1966 in Australia, Mary Jane Liddicoat was posted as head of education to the I had lived in Seoul for four years before I discovered its hidden charm: Australian Embassy in Korea from 2006 to 2009, and until 2011 was the Asia Pacific Bukchon Hanok Village, meaning the 'North Village'. I have now lived in LOHAS Korea Country Head. She is also the founder of the Healthy Homes Asia. She is married to Korean sculptor Choi -ho (40), who sculpted the 2 haechi statues in Bukchon Hanok Village for five years and every day I delight in walking front of the . Together they have 3 children, Sam Juhyun (7), Romy (5), my kids to the local school, weaving through the narrow alleyways and Lia (2). flagged by traditional 'hanok' houses. 082

083 The first is Jeongdok Public Library. Most Saturday mornings, we walk from our house to visit the tiny children's section on the ground floor, where our kids borrow as many books as they can about dinosaurs, insects or rabbits. They love the leafy, open space and grass where they simply run around and be themselves.

Robert Liddicoat drawing Most of all, they love sitting in the 'wondumak' raised wooden resting hut, of Bukchon rooftops spotting carp in the pond below.

A few afternoons a week, we walk to Samcheong Park. Leafy and sheltered – and full of wonderful insects to inspect – we take walks, kick balls around or just watch the kids go crazy on the play equipment.

Finally, although the area is teaming with historically valuable and downright quirky museums (the owl and the chicken museum for example), our choice is always the Asian Art Museum. Tucked away on How could I have missed it? Bukchon Hanok Village is right in the middle of Seoul between Palace and the Secret Garden ( Place), just north of the city's traditional arts and crafts Insa-dong district (where we spent many many hours).

It was actually my father, an Australian painter, who first told me about this magical area. When I came back for my second posting at the Australian Embassy in 2006, he demanded I look for a house in the area so he could paint there (which he did)!

Even my husband, a Korean sculptor, who virtually lived in Insa-dong knew very little about the magical, secret streets of Bukchon Hanok Village.

Now we do. Now we know every nook and cranny there is to know! The only problem is it keeps changing so rapidly that it is hard to keep track...

Apart from the various coffee shops where I love to sit and relax, watching the passing parade, as a family, we have three favorite places. At Bukchon with family ⓒMary Jane Liddicoat 084

085 the highest part of the Gahoe-dong hill, the air and the views here are Look Inside! spectacular.

What do we love about this area? The air, the trees, the grass, the art and culture, the well-loved, well-cared for traditional and new buildings, the Bukchon and clean streets, the organic food shops...and of course the people. The metropolitan city of Seoul is full of tall skyscrapers. But, if you search a bit deeper, you’ll be able to find the historical city of Seoul. Bukchon still preserves the homes of noblemen, and Seochon Village has portraits of the I was so surprised to find that most English-speakers like me, knew contemporary and modern Korea. nothing about Bukchon Hanok Village, that in 2007 I set up a website as a hobby to let people know about its magic (hanokgirl.net).

I even made souvenirs like none I've even found in Korea (including hanok wall print neck ties!), so that returning tourists could help promote

Seoul's hidden charm. Bukchon Hanok Village ⓒKTO Seochon ⓒSMW

What is its magic? It's certainly not simply the beautiful old buildings. Bukchon Seochon Bukchon Hanok Village has a sense of community, a sense of the value of Bukchon refers to the residential area including Along with the popularity of Bukchon, Seochon nature, of art and culture, and a sense of health and well-being. and surrounding the Bukchon Hanok Village, is also becoming a popular attraction. It is near and Cheonggyecheon Stream. separated from Bukchon by Gyeongbokgung I always feel privileged to be part of this community. And then I wonder: Being located between Gyeongbokgung and Palace. During the Joseon Dynasty, doctors, Changdeokgung palaces, it was a village of inspectors and other professionals lived here, if this is possible in Bukchon Hanok Village, why not for all parts of all loyalty and noblemen of the Joseon Dynasty. but in modern times, artists like painter Lee cities in Korea? What if all children in Korea could grow up breathing With the population rise of Seoul in the Jung-seop, poet Yun Dong-joo and Lee Sang and running in spaces like this? What spark of inspiration, excitement, joy 1930s, about 800 houses were built in the resided in Seochon. Unlike the traditional or creativity could this ignite, and what could that contribute to Korea's alleys of Bukchon. With the modernization tile roof houses of Bukchon, Seochon has a future? of the city, many hanoks, traditional Korean more mixed collection of houses including houses, were removed, but Bukchon has, modernized hanoks of the 1910s, Japanese- and still preserves tradition. Houses numbers style hanok of the Japanese colonial times, I have a strong sense that Korea is moving quickly in this direction and 11 and 31 to 33 in Gahoe-dong have been single and multiplex houses. You can see the that we will start seeing more communities like Bukchon Hanok Village especially well preserved. Unique features of transformation of Seoul through the small and in the future. It only takes people to choose it. the village include the cozy cafes and galleries clustered alleys of Seochon. In recent years, of Samcheongdong-gil Road, Jungang art museum and galleries, and art groups have As for new visitors to Seoul, I always tell them: start at Bukchon Hanok High School, where the moved into the village. Village. And they're never disappointed. (Published October 15th, 2010) Winter Sonata was filmed, on Gyedong-gil Address Sajik-dong & Hyoja-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Road, and stonewall and tile roof houses of Web tour.jongno.go.kr Changdeokgung-gil Road. Address Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Web bukchon. jongno.go.kr 086 | Taekwondo | 087

Taekwondo is a friend of 20 years, and now I’m a Korean at heart

For me, Korea is the land of the master, the “fatherland”. I started dreaming of going to Korea, which is the birthplace of taekwondo, when I was a child and began studying this martial art. I think that going to taekwondo’s homeland is also the dream of everyone who does this martial art everywhere in the world. They dream of touching Korean soil, like a Muslim who dreams of going to Mecca. The first time I entered a taekwondo School (dojang) in my hometown of Rome, I was only seven years old. I entered the facility holding my father's hand, with no idea of how important that event would be for my future. When I put on the white training clothes (dobok) for the first time and the white belt, I didn't even know that taekwondo was a Korean martial art. I started doing it just for fun. I enjoyed the fighting with the other kids my age. I found there was something magic in studying the basic techniques that are the “forms”. It Taekwondo pumsae (form) ⓒMarco Ienna gave me the desire to study the more advanced techniques. Over time, I continued to go deeper into this martial art, and I began to understand the historical and philosophical significance of the techniques. I had this urge to know more about Taekwando, which Marco Ienna became every more mysterious and fascinating to me. Born 1984 in Rome, Italy. Ienna started taekwondo when he was in the 3rd grade. I started to read books about Korea that were occasionally available at In 2006, he was the first foreigner to enter as a taekwondo major, and in 2010 he was the first foreigner to graduate Kyung Hee University with the Korean embassy. a taekwondo degree. He is the honorary ambassador for Kyung Hee University, an I discovered that Korea was three times smaller than Italy. To me, the assistant professor at the International Taekwondo Association, and he represents Kang’s Taekwondo Namchang Dojang. country seemed lost in a far corner of faraway East Asia. 088

089 I was amazed that such a small country situated in the Far East could enter the fight group. This experience allowed me not only to learn the become the leader in introducing taekwondo to the world. Today there competitive techniques, but also, thanks to the links that develop among are 200 countries in the WTF (World Taekwondo Federation), and 70 the students who have studied taekwondo for a long time, to get to million people make up the big family of taekwondo practitioners. know the long history and the profound cultural effect that taekwondo When I finished high school I persuaded my parents to let me go to has had on the tradition of Koreans and in their cultural norms. Korea. I departed with enthusiasm and full of expectations. Taekwondo became an official Olympic sport in 2000 and has spread On May 6, 2005 I got off the airplane at a foggy Inchon airport and inhaled throughout the world. Even outside of official competition, many the air of Korea. It was not as strange as I had imagined it would be. In fact, foreigners are attracted by the wide range of demonstration programmes as I breathed in the air I had a sense of knowing familiarity. I didn't think so both outside Korea and in the country. Many people, and not just those much about how and where I would start on my path; rather, I thought only who practice the sport, are starting to appreciate it. about my simple goal, which made me forget all else: I would study the roots Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the historical events that have of taekwondo. This goal brought me to Kyung Hee University (which in shaped the country of Korea. The white dobok training uniform represents 1983 introduced taekwondo as an official university department in Korea). the soul of the Korean people. All the terms used to designate the various But my lack of skills was a barrier to reaching my goal. techniques are names drawn from historical events. This gives taekwondo I understood that it was necessary to learn Korean to take an important the role of a spokesperson for the language, history and sprit of Korea. step toward achieving my goal. I took an eight-month immersion course Taekwondo also brings in a lot of tourists to the country. But that's not in the language. My diligent study allowed me to get closer to Korean all. In fact, the foreigners who practice taekwondo undertake a kind of society. I got to know the people, and I was able to practice and learn the devotion to Korea. They love all things Korean. From kimchi, which is grammar, sounds and vocabulary. My hard work paid off. I was able to pass always present in Korean food, to , the traditional colourful clothing the entrance examinations for the taekwondo department at Kyung Hee with light lines; from the typical landscape of valleys rich with mountains University. I was the first foreigner to do so. and water, to the traditional houses with their typical tile roofs. In Italy I had studied taekwondo only from a technical point of view. The philosophy of taekwondo is the same as the one that the But I felt happy and full of anticipation in thinking that in Korea I could founder Dangun gave to his people in 2333 B.C. His message was the practice taekwondo in all its facets, at a professional organization that illumination of the entire world. In fact, taekwondo is not simply a combined study with a scientific understanding of the techniques. physical exercise. It is a discipline through which one can obtain mental The four-year period I spent at the university was one of the most and physical health, enabling each individual to find the courage and intense and important times of my life. From the first year I was able to strength to fight injustice and to become a leader by example. As a leader, the individual works to build a model society. Unfortunately, the important role that this martial art has taken on in the rest of the world is not very well known back in Korea. In fact, in the taekwondo Schools there has been a kind of regression: they have been transformed into a sort of playground for children. The reason for this is that the Korean government has not been active in promoting taekwondo and in adopting solutions to protect and develop this martial art. Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the Recently there has been an increase in taekwando programmes for historical events that have shaped the country of Flying kick ⓒMarco Ienna foreigners, including demonstrations of taekwondo in front of the Korea. 090

091 Gyeonghuigung Palace, and the establishment of the ITA (International Look Inside! Taekwondo Academy) by the WTF in cooperation with the KTF (Korean Taekwondo Foundation). The ITA was created to allow all countries to send representatives to Korea free of charge. The purpose is for practitioners to learn more about taekwondo and Korean culture. It Taekwondo, the Martial Arts of Korea also provides an incentive for an exchange of ideas and to create a better world not only for martial arts but for the countries involved. The WTF China has Kung fu, Japan has karate, and Korea has taekwondo. Taekwondo became a world sport when it was included as an official category at the 2000 Sydney Olympic. Currently the taekwondo population has reached and the KTF cooperate on projects to design and develop international the 80 million mark. Taekwondo uses only the body and mind as a defense method rather than attack. programmes and competitions. This year again, the two organizations have offered many programmes: ITA (in the taekwondo department at Kyung Hee University in -si), the youth field in the taekwondo park in Muju-gun, along with international competitions: Korea Open (Gumi- si), Gyeongsangnam-do Open (Jinju-si), Chuncheon Open (Chuncheon- si), courses for instructors organized by Kukkiwon, etc. These events act as Taekwondo ⓒKTO Taekwondo ⓒKTO an incentive for the flow of foreigners who visit Korea. In the Namchung

Dojang training facility in Suwon-si, where I often go, athletes from Italy, Kukkiwon, the Taekwondo Headquarter Experiencing Taekwondo America, China, Austria, Australia and England can be seen. Opened in 1972 as the central dojang In order to get a deeper understanding of I believe that a university in Italy should establish a taekwondo department. (taekwondo gymnasium), Kukkiwon promotes the sport, you have to let your body feel it. This would give a rapid development to the sport in Italy, not only in the globalization of taekwondo. Belt test From April to the first week of November on terms of studying the technique, but also, and in particular, for spreading the are held here as well. It has produced over 8 Wednesdays at 11a.m., Saturdays at 2p.m., million dan and pum (ranks in taekwondo) and Sundays at 5p.m. a special taekwondo cultural heritage that is part and parcel of this martial art. I have therefore holders. In 1983, it started the World experience program is held at the Namsangol decided to stay and study in Korea until I have received a doctorate in Taekwondo Academy to train grand masters Hanok Village. Basic moves and forms, this field. For an in-depth training in this field you must also have a deep and send them out to the world. Over 50,000 breaking tiles and more are offered in a 1 hour knowledge of the language, history, philosophy and arts of Korea. That’s why grand masters have graduated from the class. Classes are 20,000 won per person and I have pursued a double degree with the department of Korean Culture and academy. reservations must be made at the Website. Language. I have acquired the certification to teach Korean. [Kukkiwon] Address 635 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam- [] Address 84-1 Pil-dong gu, Seoul Web kukkiwon.or.kr 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org Going forward, I think that theatre can be another way to inform the world about Korean history and philosophy. Through performances it is possible Taekwondo Meets Traditional Dance to talk in an interesting and enjoyable way about the history of taekwondo Taekwondo is also an art. Every Wednesday, by going through the history of Korea and its people and mythologies. Saturday and Sunday from April to November, a “Taekwondo Concert” is held Taekwondo was exported throughout the world by Korean instructors in at the Namsangol Hanok Village. A fun and the 1970s. They did more than diplomats did to propagate Korean culture. If interesting story of how taekwondo saves Korean government institutions were to promote taekwondo, it would become men is portrayed through taekwondo and a brand more famous and important than Samsung. It would be a major force traditional dance. There are no performances in increasing the number of foreigners who visit and take an interest in Korea. in August. (Published November 12th, 2010) [Taekwondo Concert] Address 84-1 Pil-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org 092 | Templestay | 093 Hello? I am Santhasiri from Sri Lanka. Already I have been in Korea for six years. I came to Korea for the first time in 2003 after I met a Korean monk who visited Sri Lanka. My first visit was for two and a half months and I met migrant workers from Southeast Asia and had a chance to help them. It was a very useful and meaningful experience for me and that made me come back to Korea on February 4, 2004.

I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows, With great expectations, I made my first step in a foreign migrant workers center in Bogwangsa Temple, Paju-si. After that, I worked for barely kept my eyes migrant workers in -si for a while and then came to Mahabuddha open during the early morning service, center in Gumi-si in April, 2005. In Mahabuddha center it was like a full time job for me to work for migrant workers from Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Philippines, Cambodia, Vietnam, Pakistan, etc. My main duties included but I got to known a new side of Korea interpreting for migrant workers when they go to a hospital when they are sick and helping to deal with all the different types of civil service cases from migrant workers in relation to their severance pay, industrial accidents, police interpreting, court interpreting, the Ministry of Labor, Korea Workers’ Compensation and Welfare Service, etc. Especially I am actively engaged in problem solving for migrant women from alienated multicultural families. I came to have an interest in child welfare because I care about their children. So I am studying child welfare at Gumi College 1. I would like to work for migrant workers with great passion in future, not forgetting why I chose Korea first.

The most memorable moment in Korea has been my Korean Buddhist experience for two weeks with foreign monks at Magoksa Temple in

G. Santhasiri

Born 1976 in Sri Lanka. Santhasiri studied archeology at the University of Sri Jayewardenepura and graduated in 2003. He came to Korea in 2004 and has worked helping foreign workers in Korea with interpretation and various civil matters.

108 bows at the Haeinsa Templestay program ⓒKTO 094

095 -si, Chungcheongnam-do. Magoksa Temple is an old temple even a speck of food using a spoon and chopsticks because I was poor at founded by Monk Jajang, discipline expert during the Silla using them. Kingdom and has the status of being the head temple of the 25th Buddhist diocese of the of . It was a Listening to a lecture about significance of donors’ offerings and mysterious experience I have never had before, waking up at 3:30 at devotion to food, and realizing that it is etiquette setting one’s attitude dawn and starting a day by beopgo: Buddhist drum, sound awakening all towards food and receiving it properly, I could make a real effort things in . It was such a great pain bowing 108 times for the following the discipline more carefully. Another unique experience first time in my life after yebul: Buddha worship, with many other monks was Zen meditation searching for self. I had a hard time sitting cross- at the main building of the temple. Only a person who has experienced legged because I was not used to living on the floor. Concentrating on a the bowing knows the pain which makes legs stiff and calf muscles hard. meaningful topic; mantra made me sleepy and provoked delusions unless I wasn’t even able to walk. However, I keep on bowing 108 times these sleepy. After repeated sleepiness, delusions and unbearable foot numbness days, which is beneficial to my health. from sitting for two weeks I came to learn a lot about Korean Buddhism and culture and feel as much. So I recommend a templestay without any Another memorable moment impacting on my Korean life is balu- hesitation to foreigners who are curious about Korea. gongyang: offering of bowls, which I first experienced then. Balu-gongyang is monastic table manners, using four balu (bowls) for rice, soup, side Recently Korean food is my biggest interest. At the beginning I have dishes, and water so much as one can take, and finishing food without had a very tough time getting used to Korean food. The unique smell wasting any in silence. However, it was too difficult to eat not wasting of doenjang: fermented bean paste, soup was so disgusting to block my

At Magoksa Temple in 2006 (Santhasiri is the 3rd person from the right) ⓒG. Santhasiri Magoksa Temple ⓒKTO 096

097 nostrils. However, I came to appreciate the true taste of Korean recipes Look Inside! which bring out the natural flavors without adding any seasoning or spices, having experienced temple culture for a long time. Due to the distinct four seasons, seasonal food is well developed in Korea and even the same material may give out different tastes preserved depending on Templestay, Searching My Inner Self the season. So I came to enjoy delicious doenjang soup with tofu-bean curd and diced hot Cheongyang red pepper. Well-matured kimchi: salted Templestay is a program that lets you experience the Korean Buddhist culture while spending a night a temple. It was first started with the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup to promote Korea Buddhism to visiting tourists, and to and seasoned Chinese cabbages soup captured my taste buds more than this day there are over 100 participating temples nationwide. Below are 4 outstanding temple recommended by any other food with its uniqueness. After having some oily food for a the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhist. Web templestay.com few days I am eager for doenjang or kimchi soup and I think my taste buds must have truly naturalized as a Korean native.

Today I start my mornings with 108 bows and am busy with matters with migrant workers all day but I am a happy Korean person who can eat a bowl of rice heartily and rest on the warm floor in the evening. Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO Temple ⓒKTO I became a kind-hearted person of Gyeongsang Province who goes around migrant workers’ rooms in the migrant center to see whether Jeondeungsa Temple Haeinsa Temple they are warm enough or if there are any sick people, taking after my Jeondeungsa is located in Ganghwado Island, it’s Located at the foot of Gayasan Mountain in master who always takes care of me whether I am warm enough or in been told that Jeondeungsa was built in 381 during Hapcheon-gun, this millennial temple houses the Kingdom’s King Sosurim’s reign. It is only 80,000 Tripitaka Koreana printing woodblocks, and good health. (Published November 26th, 2010) 1.5 hours from Seoul, and is popular among foreign its depositories, both registered on UNESCO’s World tourists for the many programs offered. Heritage list. It is a representative temple of Korea Address 635 Onsu-ri, Gilsang-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon that is loved by both locals and tourists, and it has a Web jeondeungsa.org special templestay program for foreigners.

Address 10 Chiin-ri, Gaya-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeong Woljeongsa Temple sangnam-do Web haeinsa.or.kr Located in Pyeongchang-gun’s Odaesan Mountain, Woljeongsa Temple was constructed in 643 during Geumsansa Temple Silla Kingdom’s Queen Seondeok’s reign, and it Although it was initially famous for the nation’s only famous as the temple with Buddha’s sarira. The 3-storied Mireukjeon Hall, in recent years, it has templestay program at Woljeongsa Temple is favored become better known for its exemplar templestay by many, including non-believers, for its flexible program. The Geumsansa Temple offers 1 night, 2 schedule. The 1-km fir tree forest trail that starts at the night and 6 night templestay programs. The most Iljumun Gate of the temple is also a famous tourist popular activity is the time spent with monks. attraction. Address 39 Geumsan-ri, Geumsan-myeon, -si, Jeollabuk- Address 63 Dongsan-ri, Jinbu-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, do Web geumsansa.org Gangwon-do Web woljeongsa.org 098 | The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain | 099 I boarded the shuttle bus near the station, and arrived at Palgongsan Mountain after a shaky bus ride which took approximately 50 minutes. I entered a restaurant located at the foot of the mountain. It was hot so I had my first kongguksu (Noodles in Chilled Bean Broth) for lunch in that One of my wishes was fulfilled that day year. After that, the bowl of warm guksu (noodles) ordered by the person sitting at the table next to me had arrived, but mine didn’t, so I hurried “Arigato, them. After waiting for my kongguksu for a long time, it finally came, the shop aunty said “Sorry to keep you waiting for so long. It should Gatbawi!” taste very good after waiting so long”. On top of hearing that, I wasn’t expecting much from a restaurant located at a tourist spot, but the soya milk was actually very rich, the richness of the noodles flowed down my throat, and the trefoil and parsley salad was so delicious, so it really surpassed my expectations, ultimately delighting me. I handed over my luggage to the shop for safekeeping, and I proceeded to start my walking journey to the heart of Palgongsan Mountain where the Gatbawi Rock Buddha statue was located. The tender green and azaleas were beautiful and the weather was so good on that Sunday, so there were many tourists. When I searched online, the one-way walking distance to the Gatbawi Rock was one hour. However, I didn’t expect to encounter so many steep slopes, and steep stairways with rocky paths. After climbing for five minutes, I wanted to give up. That was how tough it was. My knees were wobbling, but since I came all the way to Daegu, it didn't make sense for me not to do any sightseeing, so that became my motivation to go on. Gatbawi Rock at Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKogure Makoto Me Western clothing and a bag carried on my shoulders. Others Wind breaker for mountain trekking, long pants, and backpack. I obviously underestimated the difficulty level of this journey. The path to It was my first time to Gyeongsangbuk-do in Jan 2011 (this year). At that Gatbawi Rock was not a hiking or trekking trail, but rather “mountain time, my friend who live in Daegu showed me around. However, there were two wishes of mine that remained unfulfilled. One of them was to visit the Gatbawi Rock Buddha statue located on Palgongsan Mountain. Kogure Makoto 小暮眞琴 Another wish was to try out a famous Daegu dish called makchang (Grilled Born 1961 in Japan, Makoto is a government employee in Japan. Her body may be Pork Entrails). in Japan, but her heard is surely in Korea. She watches Korean dramas, keeps up with In May, I visited Daegu again to watch a musical, so I decided to make Korean news, talks to Korean friends over the phone and e-mail. And studies Korean every day hoping to come to Korea for a long-term language program. up for what I missed out the last time I came. I boarded the KTX at 9a.m. from Seoul, and arrived at East Daegu Station at 10:45a.m. 100

101 After enjoying the fantastic view from the mountain top, I gulped down the cold can of Pocari Sweat that I bought from the automatic vending machine, and started my downhill journey. The downhill path was also rocky and rough, so treaded with caution while grasping the railings. Once I reached the foot of the mountain, when I went to retrieve my luggage kept at the restaurant where I had my lunch, the aunty frying

Trail to Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto pajeon in the open saw my face and said “hey you’re back”, as if to verify that I am back in one piece, and rejoiced for me. I was quite thirsty, so I went to buy a can of beer to drink while waiting for the bus to go back. However, the bus came sooner than I expected, so I ended up drinking in the bus. Everyone was looking at me (sweats). Frantically, I took a towel to wrap it round the can (LOL). It is a Korean climbing”. Even if you are fully geared up for mountain climbing, anyone beer brand that had this diluted taste similar to Budweiser, but it tasted will still be worn out by this. There were benches for those who reached really good at this point of time. the peak of their exhaustion, which was just nice. Everyone was muttering After checking in to the hotel, I went to watch the musical I had looked "himdeuro (so tough)" in their strong Gyeongsangbuk-do accent. forward to watching so much. After it was over, even though it was Along the way when I looked at the surroundings, I realized that past 11p.m., I decided that I won’t go back to the hotel until I tried we were already halfway up, and yet the destination was nowhere in the famous makchang which Daegu was famous for, so I went to eat it sight. There was no telling how much longer I needed to walk in this living hell. Drenched in sweat, just an hour after I started climbing, my heart leapt with joy as I saw the sign that said "You are at Gyeongsang Province Gatbawi Rock". Yes, I finally arrived at Gatbawi Rock. I was like a Kappa (water imp in Japanese folklore) that emerged from a muddy swamp. So is this why this place is called Kappawi (Japanese spelling of Gatbawi Rock)? (I don’t think so). The name “Gatbawi” was made up of the names “Gat" (which refers to the traditional cylindrical Korean hat), and “Bawi” (which means “rock”), hence the name for the Buddha that appeared to be wearing a cylindrical shaped hat. Nothing to do with Kappas (LOL). Yes, I'm the Kappa here (laughs bitterly). I heard that if we earnestly recited our wishes to the Buddha who wears a cylindrical hat, our wish would come true once in our lifetime. There were many people who were on their knees praying devoutly. In fact there were so many people that you won't imagine that you're on top of a mountain. Since I struggled so hard to climb all the way up, I was greedy enough to make two wishes. Actually, one of them has already been fulfilled, so I think it was really worth it. The other one is already in progress, I think (LOL). People making wishes in front of Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto 102

103 together with a friend staying in Daegu who joined me to watch the Look Inside! musical. She was still a university student, so she had to obtain permission from her mother to join me. I heard that there was a number of shops lined up in a row that sold makchang nearby the opera house which was accessible by taxi from the East Daegu Station at minimum fare, so An Energy Filled Power Spot of Korea we proceeded to get there. We entered the shop named “Class A Year 2”. My friend ordered a mixture of makchang and samgyeopsal since she In Korea, there are many prayer-answering, energy-filled “Power Spots” like Palgongsan Mountain’s Gatbawi Rock. There are many feng shui influenced sites, and sited deemed “Holy” for religious and historic purposes. was concerned that the makchang may not suit my taste. The makchang These are “Power Pilgrimage Spots” of Korea. seasoned with not very spicy seasonings which comes with sweet potato, rice cakes, and onions, looked very much like sliced Chikuwas, but it felt Gwaneum Holy Ground Donguibogam Village elastic and the burnt portions tasted exceptionally great. In Buddhism, Avalokitesvara, the goddess of This Korean medicine themed park located in It was very difficult to communicate effectively through the phone with mercy, made a vow to help humankind, and Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do, will be my friend whom I've not seen in four months, so it was very enjoyable in Korean, temples enshrining Avalokitesvara hosting the 2013 World Traditional Medicine to meet up with her in person and chat with her. At that point, her are called Gwaneum temples. Interestingly, Expo in memory of the 400th publication mother called her on the phone to ask her to come home. That was most Gwaneum temples are famous as anniversary of the UNESCO designated when I realized it was 12 midnight. Frantically, we made a promise to “Power Spots.” The three major Gwaneum Donguibogam, Principles and Practice of Eastern meet again, and we bid each other farewell. holy grounds of Korea are Naksansa Temple Medicine. The Baekdudaegan Mountain in Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, Bomunsa Range, which begins in Baedusan Mountain, It was a very short visit, but I achieved two goals. It was a very satisfying Temple in Ganghwado, Incheon, and Boriam ends here in Sancheong-gun, and it is said (Published November 4th, 2011) trip to Daegu. Hermitage in Namhae-gun, Gyeongsangnam- that the energy of the mountains can be felt do. The Korea Tourism Organization and the strongest in this village. Sancheong-gun the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism have is also famous as the hometown of Joseon selected 33 temples and declared them as Dynasty’s greatest doctor, Jun. Other “Gwaneum Holy Grounds” and since 2011 a noteworthy attractions of the area include the special pilgrimage program is being operated. Korean Traditional Medicine Museum and the Web [Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism] templestay. Healing Experience Center. com, [Korea Tourism Organization] visitkorea.or.kr Address Teuk-ri, Geumseo-myeon, Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do Taebaeksan Cheongjedan Altar Taebaeksan Mountain (1,567 m) in - si, Gangwon-do, was the holy ground where ancestral rites for Dangun, the progenitor of a nation, were held. Cheonjedan Altar was where the rites were held for at least a thousand years, and the altar still remains to this day. People come to Taebaeksan Mountain to pray and wish upon the gods. Specially, on New Year’s Day, crowds of people climb the peaks of Taebaeksan Mountain to make their new year’s resolutions. Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKTO Address Sodo-dong, Taebaek-si, Gangwon-do 104 Culture 105

Jeffrey D. Jones Eve Sinapi Christina Ritt Matthew Ambrosia of Korea Tour of Busan Journey of Korean Literature Tour of the Korean Night Life Busan's Sajik Baseball Park – – – – Amy CHAN Min Siang & Valencia Robert Koehler Xiang Zi Tour of Drama Filming Locations Best Place to Propose Exploring the Alleys of Seoul Incheon International Airport – – – – John Duerden Alia Rachel Jones Omar Al-Nahar Jin May-ling Korean Soccer K-pop Live Korean Popular Music Train Journey

H a l l y u & P a s s i o n Rachel Jones’ room covered with posters of K-pop singers, Korean movies and performances ⓒAlia Rachel Jones 106 | Tour of Busan | 107 Since the early 1970’s I have been privileged to travel throughout Korea and I don’t believe there is a corner on the peninsula that I have not visited. I have not been able to step foot on all of the thousands of islands off the West coast of Korea, but I have certainly flown over them in both airplane and helicopter, which provided a much better view. Having seen so much and been to so many places, it was an extremely difficult decision to come up with my favorite place in Korea. Part of the difficulty is I sincerely enjoy so many places and part of the difficulty is I don’t want to disappoint any of my friends who can be found in or are from each destination.

The warmth and wide open spaces of Jejudo Island provide a welcome relief from the congestion and the hustle and bustle found at almost every other location in Korea. The majestic mountains of instill within me a sense of safety and security and seemingly assure me that I will live forever. I am simply overwhelmed with the historical significance of Gyeongju-si and marvel at the ingenuity of those who lived centuries before us. The west coast beaches of Korea are under utilized and provide welcome relief in the hot summer months, but Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO without the crowds. With so many places to enjoy, it was a very difficult choice indeed.

I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place I seem to return to time and time again is Busan. Perhaps it’s because this is where I was first introduced to Korea and learned to struggle with the Gyeongsangnam- do dialect which still sounds like everyone is fighting even when politely asking for a glass of water. Perhaps it is the rough and tumble attitude of

It’s more affectionate Jeffrey D. Jones Born 1952 in the U.S. He was first introduced to the Korean culture in the early 1970s, and has lived in Korea since 1980. He speaks very fluent Korean. From 1998 to 2002 he served as Chairman of the American because it’s loud and crazy Chamber of Commerce in Korea. Jones serves as Chairman of the Partners for the Future Foundation, advisor to the Foreign Investment Advisory Council of Seoul City, director of the Korea Green Foundation, and member of the International Advisory Board of the Federation of Korean Industries. Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to 108

109 Gyeongsangnam-do coupled with a persevering optimism that underlies Look Inside! the very rough exterior. Whatever the reason, Busan is the place I like to return to when I have a free weekend. I prefer to stay at Haeundae Beach, which now boasts of an elegant walkway along the entire beach front. Famous Attractions Where Busan can be Felt With exception of the first two weeks in August when the uninitiated should avoid Busan, there is always plenty of room on the beach and Busan is a city full of energy. Not for its natural surrounding and famous tourist attractions, but because its people. At the time of the Korean War, fleeting refugees landed in Busan. The hearts of these refugees heated despite what your Korean friends will tell you, it is okay to swim in the city. Where is the best place to meet these warm hearted people? the ocean on dates other than the first two weeks of August. My family enjoys the beach from May through September and there is always plenty of room, but even in this “offseason” you can enjoy a pickup game of beach volleyball or soccer. You can stroll the walk way and enjoy the street vendors who offer plenty to eat, a new hand drawn portrait or you can have your fortune told, but be sure to know the time of day you Busan Jagalchi Market ⓒKTO Busan ⓒKTO were born.

Jagalchi Market Gamcheon-dong Culture Village Haeundae Beach and the nearby vicinity have plenty of great restaurants This is the largest fisheries market in Korea formed Gamcheon-dong is small village on a sunny (the sushi shops are my favorites) from Western food to Eastern food in 1920. The smell of the ocean, the fisheries and mountainside. While the young generation was and everything in between and there is never a shortage of night clubs the people, and the loud and rough ajimaes (market gradually leaving the village, a group of young artists ladies) fill the entire market. Fresh fish is available put life back in the village in 2009. They painted or Karaoke Room when you are feeling a bit bored. Busan aquarium is from dusk till dawn, and on the 7th floor of the murals and installed artworks in walls and alleys small, but fun and there are plenty of places to spend your money on the market is guesthouse for foreign tourists. of the village. It has now become a popular tourist latest fashion and accessories. For a family getaway or a romantic evening Address 37-1 -dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web jagalchi attraction of Busan. for two, Busan is the place to go, but reserve early otherwise you may be market.or.kr Address Gamcheon 2-dong, Saha-gu, Busan sleeping in a tent on the beach. (Published April 2nd, 2010) Gukje Market & Kkangtong Market Bosu-dong Bookstore Alley Formed in 1945 by war refugee, Gukje Market is a In 1950, during the Korean War, a young couple representative wholesale and retail market of Busan started selling used books from a cardboard box on that carries everything from watches, machines, the Bosu-dong Intersection. This was the birth of the tools, electronics, kitchen appliances, clothing, food, Bookstore Alley and today there over 30 bookstores produce, etc. Right across this vintage market is in business. You can find old literature, foreign books, Kkangtong Market, which specializes in imported textbooks, rare books, etc. There are also many small goods. Busan eomuk (fishcake) and other Busan cafes and the Mural Village is also nearby. specialties attract shoppers from around the country. Address 119 Bosu-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web bosubook. Address Sinchang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web tour.bsjun com ggu.go.kr

I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place Haeundae Beach ⓒJoongAng Daily I seem to return to time and time again is Busan. 110 | Tour of Drama Filming Locations | 111 My first visit to Korea was in December 1972. Seoul looked interesting although a bit rural compared to Tokyo and Osaka; the people were rather friendly; and it was a pleasant surprise to see so many Chinese characters in building and attraction names and shop signs. However, other than these, my first sojourn to Korea did not really seem to have left much impression so much so that I had not returned for three decades.

Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse… But all these changed dramatically after I became a member of the Bae Yong-joon “family” in 2003. That November, with much curiosity and I came to see Bae Yong-joon, without any knowledge of what to expect, I went on an expedition to with 16 other ladies, none I had met before, and most could and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart hardly speak a word of or had ever been to the Land of the Morning Calm. The purpose of our trip was to meet our idol, to shake his hand and to have a photo taken with him after getting his precious autograph. Little did I realize that this was the start of my 30 plus trips to follow my idol’s footsteps in discovering the beauty of Korea!

The following winter, I took no time to visit Yongpyong Resort, Namiseom Island, and Chuncheon-si, so as to experience the natural beauty of Gangwon-do, and relive “Winter Sonata” through the many anecdotes and traces of my idol.

Then it was a non stop series of visits to all the unique locations I have seen in my idol’s TV dramas and movies —— the Seoul Choong Ang High School, Jukseoru Pavilion near Samcheok-si, the beach and rocks at Chuam Beach, the lighthouse at East Sea, Jagalchi Market in Busan, Oedo Botania, Resom Ocean Castle on Anmyeondo Island, Eight Scenic Views

Namiseom Island ⓒKTO of Danyang-gun, even the Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island. I slowly evolved to a true admirer of Korea off the beaten track.

Through all these journeys, I became more and more interested in the Amy Chan culture and tradition of this amazing country and its people, not to Born 1949 in Hong Kong, Chan was formerly the director of the Hong Kong Tourism Board. She is also an honorary professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, mention its breathtaking landscape. Department of Tourism, the Chairman at the Korea-Hong Kong Friendship Association, and an honorary advisor of Bae Yong-joon’s fan club in Hong Kong, BYJ Friends Forever Club. Hangul’s close resemblance to the Chinese language intrigues me. The influence of Confucianism in the daily life and human relationship is 112

113 also beyond my imagination. I have many a time been deeply touched was where my idol and his screen lover remade the happy ending of the by the close family ties and filial piety seen through tear jerking scenes animation version of their famous work on television. in Korean drama, something probably long lost and forgotten in our modernized and westernized society. My next trip to the Land of the Morning Calm? Well, I guess I must dutifully continue to follow the footsteps of Bae Yong-joon, my idol. What inspired me most is the patriotism of my idol and many of his May be this time, to the Andong Hahoe Village and Andong-si in fellow countrymen. Bae Yong-joon is probably the first artist to write Gyeongsangbuk-do to see how traditional Korean jang is made. Smells a book on his profound love for his country’s culture and heritage. He good, and tastes even better. spent months to visit the places, meet the people, take photos to record his journeys, and write with great respect and passion on what he has Gamsa hamnida, Korea and Bae Yong-joon ssi, for being so inspiring ! encountered. (Published July 16th, 2010)

It is therefore not difficult to understand why there are ladies ( yes, mostly ladies ) from as diverse places as Egypt, , Hawaii, Canada, and Australia that have frequented “Bae Yong-joon land”, to be joined by thousands of Japanese and ethnic Chinese from Mainland China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. We go to Korea, not only because we want to catch a glimpse of our idol, but to learn more about his country.

I know of “senior” ladies in the Bae Yong-joon gajok ( family ) making Amy Chan's "Bae Yong-joon" Pilgrimage special efforts to study Korean, learn to use the computer so that they can get onto the internet to follow the latest news of our idol, and some even go to the extent of taking lessons on “Photoshop” and film editing Chuncheon Namiseom in order to share beautiful images of our idol and Korean scenery with Island Jeongdongjin Seoul Choong Ang Yongpyong Chuam Beach High School Ski Resort Jukseoru Pavilion fellow “family” members. •Samcheok

Eight Scenic Views of Danyang For those bureaucrats who often doubt the effectiveness of using Resom Ocean Castle celebrities as spokespersons for Korea, and those who think the Hallyu () is but a short lived phenomenon, I wish to say, they are wrong. The impact of Hallyu is immense, although a little challenging

Jagalchi Market in Busan to be correctly measurable, but certainly is much longer lasting than Gwangju most people thought. All these enthusiasm for Korea and its glittering Geojedo Island, Oedo Island personalities may require careful management, but Hallyu is here to stay.

In April, I went with my rather jealous but kind-hearted husband to Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island Jeongdongjin and stayed at the Sun Cruise Resort. Why -- because that 114

115 Look Inside!

Hallyu Road, Famous Filming Locations in Korea

Jewel in the Palace, Winter Sonata, Star in my Heart, Autumn in My Heart, Stairway to Heaven, these are just a few 1st and 2nd generation hallyu dramas. Filming locations of these dramas have already become popular tourist attractions. Here are newer dramas and their filming locations.

Hongik University Area, Gwanghalluwon Garden Seaes Hotel This is the main setting for Moon This garden was featured in Secret Garden is a drama about the Geun-yeong’s Mary Stayed Out All , starring JYJ’s Park love story between the CEO of a Night. Being a young university area Yoo-chun. The drama draws the major department store and a stunt famous for its wild nightlife, many love story between a Joseon woman. In the drama, the two get modern and trendy dramas are Dynasty crown prince (Park Yoo- lost in the forest and somehow filmed here.1st Shop of Coffee Prince chun) and a modern day young end up drinking a mystery was also filmed here, and the actual woman named Bak-ha (Han Ji-min). that ends up changing their souls. coffee shop feature on the drama Gwanghalluwon Garden is one of The resort where they first find is still in business today attracting the top 4 pavilions of Korea, and it out about their changed souls is at crowds of people. And finally in was where the crown prince and this hotel in Jejudo Island. Crowds Love Rain, Jang Keun-suk’s studio his princess used to take walks to. of people visit the hotel to take was also located here in Hongdae. This is also where the princess was pictures. Address Donggyo-dong, Seogyo-dong found dead. This is also where Bak- Address 2563-1 Jungmun-dong, and Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul ha finds a letter the prince wrote to -si, Jeju Special Self-governing Province Web seaes.co.kr her 300 years ago. Jade Garden Address 1447 Yocheon-ro, Namwon-si, Exported to over 20 countries Jeollabuk-do Web gwanghallu.or.kr even before the end of the drama, Love Rain was filmed in Cheongsando Island this arboretum. This beautiful This is the island where the two European style garden was main characters of the drama Scent Hana’s House, played by Girls’ of a Woman, unexpectedly spend a Generation’s Yuna. Jade Garden night in a tent. Their date/business was also featured in You’re a Pet, a trip was filmed here. movie starring Jang Keun-suk. Address Cheongsan-myeon, Wando- Address San 111 Seojeon-ri, Namsan- gun, Jeollabuk-do Web sanbada.net myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do Web jadegarden.kr

Jade Garden ⓒHanwha Hotels&Resorts 116 | Korean Soccer | 117

I go to soccer stadiums to feel the “Real” Korea

Seoul World Cup Stadium filled with fans wearing red shirts ⓒKTO

It is a great way to spend your free time and watching football in Korea gives you the excuse to travel around a fascinating and beautiful country. I have sweated in the summer in Pohang, shivered in Seoul and got drenched in a thunderstorm (after the first day of the 2005 East It is this closeness between the hardcore fans and the players that helps Asian Championships if anyone remembers that) that came so suddenly define Korean football. I had the pleasure to be invited to speak at the and so heavily that my laptop was damaged beyond repair. It has never open day for Incheon United before the 2009 season. Again, I was struck been boring, always enjoyable. by the easy familiarity between the fans and their heroes. With much of European football becoming one that where clubs increasingly talk of People often ask me about the differences between football in Korea, and customers or consumers, the relationship between fans and players in England, where I am from. I try to make the point that English football Korea is a close one. The fact that all the team buses are covered with is not just about the English Premier League. That may be the most good luck graffiti scribbled by fans shows the affection and mutual popular league in the world but the country has a vibrant football scene respect that exists. from the tip of the pyramid right down through the Championship, League one, League Two, the Conference and the many more leagues This is not to say that the football scene is amateurish. It is not. If you lower down. It is these that remind me of Korean football, not so much happen to find yourself flying over Korea and are lucky enough to have a in the standard but more in regards to the people, the atmosphere and the sheer friendliness.

That is what I enjoy most about football in Korea. It is the people. This John Duerden is a league in which the clubs, the players and the fans have an incredibly Born 1972 in London, Duerden studied politics and economics in London and is close relationship. Watching Suwon Bluewings win the FA Cup recently, a soccer columnist and freelance reporter. He has had articles published in CNN, Associated Press, the Guardian and other soccer publications, and is the editor of what was striking was how the players passed the trophy to their fans Goal.com. He also writes columns for the Asian Football Confederation Website and after defeating Busan I’Park. It is something is hard to see elsewhere and Total Soccer magazine. Currently living in Seoul since 2002, he is running “Duerden’s Top Corner” in Nate.com. He is a big fan of the Blackburn Rovers. it was a pleasure to watch.

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119 window seat that you are in with a great chance of spying one of the ten Look Inside! state-of-the-art stadiums that dot the Land of the Morning Calm. The facilities are great and the football is good. Nine times Korean teams have won the Asian Champions League, the same as the combined totals of the next best two – Japan and Saudi Arabia. It is a record to be proud of. Incredible Matches at Korea’s Soccer Stadiums

So you have good football, in great surroundings that all takes place in a Begun in 1983 with only five teams, as of 2012, has 16 teams. Korea is home to the , which was included among the world’s top 10 soccer stadiums; the , which is nickname relaxed atmosphere. Compare it some European leagues where fans can’t “Big Bird” for the wing-like roof; and the Gwangju World Cup Stadium, where the legendary quarter-final match of the even take a bottle of water into the stadium, in Korea you can pretty 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup was held. Here are stadiums that re-wrote the soccer. much do what you like. Families take in pizzas, , squid, beer and anything they fancy. Daejeon World Cup Stadium Showing what Korean architectural beauty Established in 2001, this soccer stadium has a The hardcore that congregate behind one of the goals don’t eat anything is all about, the Seoul World Cup Stadium is capacity of 40,000 seats. It is the first stadium during the match. These boy and girls, and there is a good proportion Asia’s largest soccer stadium. It has a capacity in Korea to have iron framed sliding ceilings. of females, may grab a quick snack at half-time but as soon as the action of over 60,000, and it has hosted not only Home to the Daejeon Citizens FC, this was starts, they sing, jump up and down and get behind their team. Even if the 2002 World Cups, but also hosts various where the quarter finals of the 2002 World A-match games. This is the home stadium of Cup was held. the opposition are winning 3-0, there is little let up in the songs and the FC Seoul. Address 270 Noeun-dong, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon chants. When the final whistle sounds, the players head to that end of Address 515 Seongsan-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Web sisul. Web djsiseol.or.kr the stadium to celebrate the win with their fans or bow in apology if the or.kr/sub04 result is not what everyone had hoped. There is little aggression. It is all Pohang Steelyard about enjoying a out. Incheon Munhak Stadium Completed in 1990, this was the first soccer This is an all-inclusive sports complex. Home field of Korea. Although it is a rather small

to the Incheon United FC, Munhak Stadium stadium with a capacity of 20,000 seats, with I was lucky enough to be here for the 2002 World Cup when I first saw has a baseball park, track and field track, a a special 500 seats for its supporters, it is the how football could energise a nation in a way that was incredible and soccer field and more. This is where Korean pride of Pohang. It is the home of the Pohang beautiful. It was a month in which football showed the power it had to National Team made it into the top 16 at the Steelers. bring people together and to change things for the better. As exciting as 2002 World Cup Address 1 Goedong-dong, Nam-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeong sangbuk-do Web steelers.co.kr it was to see Korea defeat European giants like Italy, Spain and Portugal Address 482 Munhak-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon Web in siseol.net to go to the semi-finals and put provincial cities such as Daejeon and Gwangju on the global map, it is still in the domestic football that you can find the most joy. I have watched the Korean national team play on four continents but it is back in East Asia where it feels the best.

This is where you see the real Korea. You are greeted as a friend and you leave as one. (Published January 21th, 2011)

Seoul World Cup Stadium ⓒKTO 120 | Journey of Korean Literature | 121 My name is Eve Sinapi (in Korea people call me "Eva"), I’m 28 years old and I’m originally from Marseille in the south of France. I left France in August 2007 to come and live in Korea. I still remember very vividly that summer’s day when, alone, I boarded the plane which would take me to Korea and my new life. At the time, I was still just a girl of 24. Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun Having completed my master’s degree in teaching French as a foreign and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in Namwon-si, language in France, I decided to go and teach our beautiful language to the Koreans. And that’s how it came to pass that, at a young age, I took a plane to Korea, a distant land, situated more than 9,000 km from my Such a Romantic Korea own. On the day of my departure, although I was enthusiastic about the new experience ahead of me, I was still quite anxious. I wondered whether I would really be happy in Korea, without family, friends or anyone I knew, and without even being able to speak Korean properly, and not knowing anything about the country’s culture and customs. I was worried about feeling lonely in Korea and I wasn’t sure whether I’d be able to adapt to this new and very different life. Every time I had anxious thoughts, I would keep telling myself to ease my not insignificant doubts, "Yes! You can do it! You'll manage!" Looking back on all that now really makes me laugh. You know why? Because I’m not the same young girl I was then. I’ve been living in Korea for almost four years now and I must admit that I’ve changed a great deal. I’m no longer that anxious young girl heading towards an uncertain future, but a self-assured young woman who enjoys chatting away in Korean, writing long letters in Korean, eating Korean food at any time of day and who even tries cooking Korean dishes for her husband. And yes, my husband is Korean! We have known each other for three years and enjoy being together every day, singing our heads off Wanwoljeong is a pavilion in a pond in Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO to Korean songs and watching Korean films. Now, when I have to go back to France to see my family, I worry about going more than a week without seeing kimchi, and I wonder whether I'll be able to stomach all that bread and cheese! That’s how I am now. When people ask me Eve Sinapi how I could have changed so much in just four years, I simply tell them Born 1984 in Marseille, France. She has a master’s degree in education and her first visit to Korea was in 2003. Since then she’s worked as a visiting professor in Korea, I’ve fallen under Korea’s spell. It’s not only that I’ve fallen in love with a and has visited 2 more times. In 2008, she fell in love with a Korean man in Daegu Korean. I’ve also fallen in love with this welcoming country, the beautiful and they married in February, 2011. She lives in Daegu, and is still exploring the Korean culture. language and the Korean culture, which is so different from my own and yet so rich and fascinating. They say that when you fall in love with 122

123 the opportunity to visit "Sonagi Village", the village featured in "Sonagi" (The Rain Showers), a classic Korean novel written by Hwang Sun- won. This village is where the novel is set and I was over the moon to be able to get this unique opportunity to visit it. In actual fact, as a

In Gwanghalluwon Garden with my husband foreigner I wasn’t familiar with the novel until then, but once someone ⓒEve Sinapi summed up the story about a passionate yet pure love affair between two Korean teenagers, I was very moved and really keen to read it for I might be French but to me the atmosphere in France myself. The tragic end of the story, in particular, so sad and at the same is not as romantic as it is here in Korea. time so romantic, brought to mind Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet". It was then that I realised the Koreans are just as good at telling these sorts of romantic tales as us Europeans! It was such a joy for me to see with my own eyes Yangpyeong-gun, the backdrop of the novel "Sonagi" ("The Rain Showers") and to imagine myself as the heroine!

someone, you can change without even realising. Well, the same applies when you fall in love with a country. You can change enormously without even noticing. When people hear me talking like this, they often ask: "But what exactly is it that’s so charming about Korea? France is such a romantic country, how could you have given it all up for Korea?" The answer is very simple: Korea is also an extremely romantic country! I might be French but to me the atmosphere in France is not as romantic as it is here in Korea. Believe me, it’s true! Korea really is a romantic country! The romantic charm of Korea In my four years of living in Korea, I’ve travelled around the country a lot and discovered many places with a romantic atmosphere or significance. For instance I recently had the opportunity to go to Yangpyeong-gun, in the province of Gyeonggi-do in the north part of the country to film an episode of "Miso Korea" (Korea Smile) for the TV channel SBS. This trip gave me Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO 124

125 What really touched me about Hwang Sun-won’s novel was that the Before we were married, I had a similar experience with my husband characters are two teenagers who fall in love because of the attraction when we visited the town of Namwon-si in the province of Jeollabuk-do they feel for one another although they come from completely different where we visited the Gwanghalluwon Garden. When I saw the array of backgrounds. The young woman is from Seoul, the capital city, and different flowers and the park's beautiful natural scenery, my heart skipped suddenly has to up sticks and move to the country where she meets a a beat. In the spring sunshine, my husband and I could not stop smiling. boy who is very different to the types she met in the city. She gradually But that’s not all. Whilst visiting Gwanghalluwon Garden, I discovered learns to enjoy this new environment – the Korean countryside – the famous Korean love story between "Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong". together with him. To tell the truth, it’s a bit like the love story that Namwon-si is said to be where the legend of "Chun-hyang and Mong- played out between me and my husband. I was only young and from a nyong" originated. It is a tale of fidelity between two people who have a big French city when I moved to a small village in the Korean province truly loyal love for one another until the bitter end despite the obstacles of Gyeongsangbuk-do, where I met my future husband, before moving to life throws at them. Daegu. It’s clear that what brought us together was the fact that we come While discovering some elements of the legend for ourselves in from two very different worlds but are so emotionally connected and Namwon-si, my husband and I wore traditional Korean dress and had happy together in Korea. I can therefore really identify with this novel, our photos taken. And it was then that we vowed always to love and be and the fact I was able to visit the village of "Sonagi" in Yangpyeong-gun faithful to one another, just like Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong. It was allowed me to discover another gem of Korean literature and culture. also then that I understood that Koreans were true romantics too. And this experience also allowed me to experience a special romantic But Korea’s romantic charm doesn’t end there. There are countless other atmosphere which I wouldn’t have found elsewhere. wonders in all four corners of the Korean peninsula, not forgetting Jejudo Island, which also oozes romanticism. When I visited Jejudo Island

Hangang River ⓒEve Sinapi In Jejudo Island with my husband in 2009 ⓒEve Sinapi 126

127 in 2009, I went for a walk in a beautiful place called "Seopjikoji Coast", Look Inside! where I was captivated by the beauty of the sea, which was a much lighter blue than the Mediterranean of my childhood, but which had that same smell of iodine and that same light breeze, and straight away made me feel at home. On the cliff tops surrounded by lush green scenery, Korean Literature Introduced in the World I was admiring the tranquil beauty of the landscape with my husband when suddenly I heard the sound of a horse trotting along behind us and Since 1990, many Korean literary works have translated and published in other languages. In 2011, Shin Kyung- sook’s Please Look After Mom was translated and published in 33 languages. The world is slowly showing interest noticed a western style church in a stunning setting. On closer inspection, in Korean literature. we found out that it was the filming location of the Korean TV series "All in", a very famous show about a love story (again!) between actors Lee When was a Korean book first translated? Korean Classics Read by the World Byung-hun and Song Hye-kyo It really was amazing to see this magical In 1889, the English version of Hanguk Kim Man-jung’s Guunmong (The Cloud Dream setting with our own eyes and to feel a bit like lovers on a television show! Mindamjip (Folk Tales of Korea) was published of the Nine) and Lady Hong’s Han joong In Seoul, I once went on a mini cruise on the Hangang River, which in the United States. In 1892 the French nok (Records of Sorrowful Days) are Korean runs through the heart of the city. During the cruise, I witnessed a truly edition of Chunhyangjeon was introduced, classics still sold at amazon.com. Guunmong magnificent sunset, where the red and orange light was reflected in the and in 1893 Korean Folk and Fairy Tales was was translated by J.S. Gale in 1922, and was water of the river, lending a new charm to the city’s skyscrapers. There, published in German. The Korean classis novel published and revised a number of times by Simcheongjeon was also published in French the English title, The Cloud Dream of the Nine. too, that sunset gave me goose bumps. in1895. It has been over 100 years since the There are also 2 Japanese editions. And now that it’s springtime I’m looking forward to going to Gyeongju- first Korean literature was translated. si in the eastern part of the country with my husband to see the huge The 2000s, Glory Days of the Korean avenues full of cherry blossom in bloom and to take some photos which Who has the most translated works? Literature Abroad look like paintings as the colours are so clear and lucid. When walking Every year, poet Un is a candidate for Korean novels began to hit bookstands along those avenues and seeing the white cherry blossom falling all the Nobel Prize of Literature. Maninbo around the world in the mid-2000s. Aside (Ten Thousand Lives) and Hwaeomgyeong, from works by famous writers like Yi Kwang- around us like a spring snow shower, we can’t help smiling and feeling Avatamsaka Sutra have been translated in 15 su and Hwang Sun-won, Choi In-ho’s Firebird, the romanticism of the setting wash over us! languages. The 2nd most translated author and Park Wan-suh’s Who Ate Up All the Shinga I don’t think I’ll ever stop discovering new romantic places in Korea. I is novelist Yi Mun-yol. Yi has novels like Our were introduced translated and introduced recently heard about a small island called "Namiseom Island (남이섬)", Twisted Hero, The Son of Man, and Portrait of to the world. In 2006, famous Korean writers in the province of Gangwon-do. The island is apparently well-known my Youth translated and published in various like Gong Ji-young, Shin Kyung-sook, Kim for being the filming location of the most romantic scenes from the TV foreign languages. Next in line is Lee - Young-ha, Jo Kyung-ran and Han Gang have jun, who wrote , and Iodo. Lee’s contracted with distinguished publishes show "Winter Sonata (겨울연가)", a phenomenally successful series about a works are especially popular among German overseas. They are following the footsteps of love affair between actors Bae Yong-joon and Choi Ji-woo. I'm told it’s a readers. Novelist Hwang Sok-yong’s The novelists like Hwang Sok-yong and Yi Mun-yol, must-see for all fans of Korean television series and romantics. Which is Old Garden, and The Guest have also been who have already made their mark worldwide. why I hope to get the chance to go there soon myself! translated into 11 languages. So there we go: the romantic side of Korea is enough to exhilarate anyone, even a French woman like me! (Published May 13th, 2011)

Hwang Sok-yong ⓒSMW 128 | Best Place to Propose | 129

I proposed to my girlfriend at Lotte World, and she couldn’t stop crying

With the parade team at Lotte World ⓒMin Siang & Valencia

To Min Siang and Valensia, who live in Singapore, Lotte World is a place they’ll never forget. For as long as their love lasts, their memory of Lotte World will also last.

Min Siang: Korea, this was the land we’ve fell in love with since our first visit to the country 2 years ago. Back then, we were reluctant to go back home Min Siang & Valencia to Singapore and promised each other that we’ll come back again Groom-to-be Min Siang, Loy was born in 1985 in Singapore, and currently works at a bank in Singapore. Bride-to-be Valencia, Lin was born in 1984 in Singapore, and she someday. True enough, 2 years later, we touched down at the Incheon also works are a bank in Singapore. The two first visited Korea 2 years ago, and fell International Airport on the 21st May 2011. in love with the Korean culture; its food, its fashion, the arts and entertainment, the landscape, the weather, Korean dramas, music and everything else Korea. In May, Like 2 years back, we opted for a free-and-easy trip, preferring to be 2011, the came back to visit Korea, and Min Siang proposed to his girlfriend. unbounded by the many limitations of joining tour. In particular, I had 130

131 we visited Samcheong-dong – this place is simply marvellous. Despite the upslope walk sometimes, we found it totally enjoyable. We were amazed at how well they’ve maintained residential estates of traditional Korean houses and the peace and serenity of this place. Soon, the big day arrived, 28th May 2011 – the day which I planned my proposal for my then-darling with Mr. Shin from Lotte World. Prior to this trip, we’ve been communicating via emails and calls to finalize details, and to make sure all preparation is complete. This is also the first time we’ve visited Lotte 88 in the middle of the audience seats. With the support from the sweet host, I felt boosted with courage to stand up on the float and looking around for my boyfriend, anxiously. The dancers stepped down from the float and started dancing to the Night View of Lotte World ⓒLotte World music on the ground. I was swaying to the music along with the host till a surprising slideshow was screened. Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind for this proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well. There it was the photo of us - my partner and me. Tears of joy burst out uncontrollably as I listened attentively to the speech delivered by Min Siang. Even though, the wordings were in Korean, the screams of happiness from the crowd was exhilarating. The host was looking at me planned this to be a shopping trip for my beloved lady Valencia. Truth is, intensely and said to me - "ah... Our future lady..." sending excitement I had since long planned a proposal to my then-girlfriend, now someone to me. whom I can proudly address as my fiancée. We stayed at one of the best shopping areas in Seoul, Myeong-dong. The When the slideshow is over, he walks out with fresh pink roses and the shops available sell almost everything that we can think of, from the most proposal ring. My heart was in a flutter and tears refused to stop flowing fashionable clothes to the vast array of skincare products for men and out. The cheering from the crowd made me feel like a blushing bride. women alike. To top it off, there’re lots of heavenly food around, such as Mr. Shin and his crew were busy snapping photos of us as Min Siang the infamous Myeongdong Gyoza. Believe us - we’ve been to this place came forth to me. for our meals at least 3 times during our stay. Yes it’s that good. Although we know we could satisfy most of our shopping desires in "will you marry me?" Myeong-dong alone, I know this trip wouldn’t be complete without visiting other areas in town. We went on to other shopping havens such How could any girl resist such a pleasant surprise proposal? Almost as , where we can literally shop till we drop since immediately, I saw the smiles on everyone face and knew that they share it’s open till 4a.m. in the morning, area where the same feeling as me. I nodded and blushed. He came onboard and fashion goods are sold at reasonable prices, and joined me. Many photos were taken for us to keep as fond memories. shopping area as well, where we visited the renowned Coffee Prince The videographer has been very professional in taking down the entire Café. To take a break from the non-stop shopping endeavours we had, proposal. 132

133 The float brought us to a restaurant where we have a mini march in Look Inside! with the dancers lined up at both sides of the entrance. Friendly and approachable Mr. Shin was in great smiles when the proposal was successful. Guiding us to our table was Mr. Shin and the crew, not forgetting Lotty and Lorry - the perfect couple mascots that have Romantic Spots in SEOUL been so spontaneous in participating in the surprise planned by the management and my boyfriend. Falling in love is very easy in Seoul. With a population of over 10 million, Seoul has more romantic spots than anywhere else in the world. Amusement parks like Lotte World, observatories, parks, and other romantic places are always filled with couples in love. 28th May 2011 - a day we will never forget. A day where I have received many well wishes from the amicable locals. A day where I had my memorable proposal - that made me feel like a royal princess.

Thank you Lotte world, Mr. Shin and the team, the crowd who witnessed the proposal for your warm greetings. Loop Restaurant at the N Tower Seoul ⓒKTO Night View of the Hangang River ⓒKTO The following day came when we had to say goodbye to Korea, where we have had so much fun, laughter, joy and magical moments. We were N Seoul Tower 63 City Observatory once again reluctant to leave and really can’t wait till we visit again, for Standing atop Namsan Mountain, the N Seoul Tower The bright and colorful night scene of the skyscrapers we know how much this place amazes us and more importantly, this is offers a spectacular view of the city. The view of the sun along the Hangang River is stunning. That is why the 63 City the place we’ll always remember for our perfect proposal. setting over the Hangang River, and skyscrapers lighting Observatory is a popular date location. The observatory on up the city at night, it just couldn’t get any prettier. The the 60th floor is 264 m above sea level. The “Love Elevator” restaurant rotates a full 360 degrees every 48 minutes is another romantic feature of the 63 City. Reason why I chose to propose in Korea so that where ever you sit, you can see the entire city Address 60 -dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul First of all, we love this place since our first visit to the place. Secondly, in front of you. On the outdoor observatory, couples Web 63.co.kr I know my fiancée has always loved sweet memories and would want to secured their love by hanging a lock on the fence, and have a magical and memorable proposal. I, too, want to give her a very throwing the key over the fence. Seoul’s Hangang Park is favorite date and outing sweet and pleasant proposal. Most important of all, I want to make her Address 1-3 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Web nseoul tower.com area. You can enjoy the cool breeze of the Hangang feel like a princess on this very magical day. Having the proposal set in River while on a yacht or a duck peddle boat. If you’re a theme park, to me, is a very magical event, and even more so, Lotte Proposal Wall at Cheonggyecheon Stream the adventurous type, water skiing, wakeboarding, World is one of the best theme parks I’ve seen from all my research done Along Cheonggyecheon Stream, is a guaranteed or other water sports are also available. You can online and I’m truly amazed and proved my point correct when I visited proposal site. You can make reservations at their also plan your romantic proposal here. Contact the Website (propose.sisul.or.kr), and there is a large Website for detailed information. this place. So Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind for this screen where you can show videos or photos. About a Address [Yeouido Hangang Park] 8 Yeouido-dong, th proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well. (Published July 15 , 2011) Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, [Nanji District] 487-257 Sangam- third of the couples who fell in love here, have walked dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, [Jamsil District] 1-1 Jamsil-dong, down the aisle. Songpa-gu, Seoul Web hangang.seoul.go.kr Address 540 Majang-dong, Seongdong-gu, Seoul Web propose. sisul.or.kr 134 | K-pop Live | 135

Rain’s CD cover ⓒSMW Big Bang poster ⓒSMW

Elementary English teacher during week, 5 years ago I stumbled upon a K-POP video while on Youtube. It was Rain’s “I’m Coming.” My first reaction was “Whoa! What was that?!” My second reaction was intense curiosity. Seconds later, I began searching K-pop fanatic the Internet to learn more about Rain. It didn’t take long for me to fall on weekends in love with K-POP. I love K-POP because of the catchy beats, the innovative music videos, the amazing concerts, the handsome guys and beautiful girls, the talented singers and mostly because I appreciate the hard work it takes to become successful. K-POP groups and singers are extremely dedicated to constantly improving themselves. I also love K-POP because fans get to know their favorite idols, singers and groups very well thanks to TV performances, TV shows, concerts and fan meets. My favorite groups and singers are JYJ, Rain, DBSK (TVXQ), Big Bang, SHINEE, 2AM, FT Island, BEAST, Afterschool, KARA, 2NE1, MBLAQ, Park Hyo-shin, Seo In-, Se7en, Navi, and Clazziquai.

K-POP is special because it combines Korean lyrics with catchy English phrases. International fans might not know the Korean lyrics at first, but they can sing along with the English lyrics. K-POP is also unique

Alia Rachel Jones

Born 1988 in the U.S., Jones studied Cultural Anthropology at Cornell. She’s been teaching English at an elementary school in Daegu since 2010. She likes listening to k-pop, enjoys Lolita fashion, sawing and making beaded accessories. She’s an English teacher by day and a k-pop fanatic by night.

Neon sticks I used at K-pop star concerts ⓒAlia Rachel Jones 136

137 In my senior year of college, I won a Fulbright grant to teach English in Korea. I wanted to come to Korea because of my Korean studies and cultural anthropology backgrounds, my strong interest in early childhood development and because it was a chance to experience Korean culture. 2AM CD ⓒSMW MBLAQ CD ⓒSMW I also saw it as an opportunity to finally experience K-POP live. I’ve been living in Korea for a year now as an elementary school teacher. K-POP helps me connect with my students because they love it just as much as I do! My life in Korea has been a mix of daily interaction with my students and co-teachers and running to Seoul on the weekends for K-POP concerts.

I’ve gone to 14 K-POP concerts since last August: Park Hyo-shin “Gift because the songs are very vibrant and the idols have irresistible charm 2”, the Hallyu Dream Festival, FT Island’s “Beautiful Journey”, “JYJ The Beginning Worldwide Concert in Seoul”, Asia Song Festival/ and charisma (김준수짱!). G20 Concert 2010, YG Family Concert 2010, Clazziquai Christmas Thanks to the Internet and fans that translate Korean song lyrics and Eve Concert in Daegu, 2AM “Saint O’Clock”, Rain “Adieu! 2010”, post videos, I was able to learn about Korean music. K-POP is now a SHINEE the 1st Concert in Seoul (both days), B2ST’s “Welcome Back global phenomenon because of fans around the world that share a love to B2ST Airlines”, BIG BANG’s 2011 BIG SHOW, and the 2011 Dream for Korea’s talented singers and groups. The ease of sharing media and Concert. Also, I am an official “Cloud” (Rain’s Fan Club). information globally enables anyone to become a K-POP fan now. I spent my college years watching K-POP videos and reading English While living in Korea, my life has been very much intertwined with K-POP blogs. This helped me feel connected to my favorite groups even K-POP and I wouldn’t have it any other way. K-POP is a major part of though I was living thousands of miles away in the United States. Korean popular culture and each concert that I’ve attended has been an amazing display of fan loyalty, excitement and heartfelt enthusiasm. Being K-POP is a powerful tool for cultural exchange. K-POP was the main a part of a sea of glow-sticks and learning the fan-chants, or being down reason why I started to have an interest in Korean culture. In college, on the ground floor amidst the screaming fans trying to desperately get as an Anthropology major, I was excited about learning about different closer to the singers, creates unforgettable memories. K-POP has been a cultures. Because I loved K-POP so much, I started to watch Korean part of my life for a long time and it will continue to be. I will ALWAYS th dramas and films, I enrolled in Korean history and culture classes, I went KEEP THE FAITH. (Published August 12 , 2011) to “Korea Nights,” I went to samulnori performances, I saw traditional Korean dances, I ate kimchi in the dining hall, and I became interested in Korean language. I hung posters of DBSK and Rain in my dorm room and constantly answered questions like “Why do you like Korean music so much?” My answer was always, “Because it is awesome. You should try listening to it.” Then I would give them a list of K-POP singers and show them music videos. 138

139 Look Inside!

Ardent Fan Culture of Korea

Stars and their fans can’t be separated. Korea, the home of K-pop, probably has the most passionate and dedicated fan culture in the world. Although the large crowds of fan around the world have caused some trouble, in recent years, fans go beyond yelling and cheering for their star. A whole new culture of fans has arrived.

Ageless Fans Live Shows About 10 years ago, the crowds of people Meeting your favorite star is not so easy. But following the stars were usually teenaged you can see a free shows and performances girls. But in recent years, the age and gender of singers by going to television show of fans has no barriers. These older “big recordings. You can request tickets online. brother” and “big sister” fan groups have For dates and availability, check the Websites become a protective ring around their stars. below.

Colorful Fan Clubs [SBS Music Trend] (Inki Gayo) (Sundays 3:40p.m., Each fan club in Korea has its own distinct Live) Web tv.sbs.co.kr/gayo [KBS Music Bank] (Fridays 6:10p.m., Live) Web kbs. color. For instance, TVXQ’s color is a pearly co.kr/2tv/enter/musicbank sapphire blue and Girls’ Generation’ color is [Mnet ] (Thursdays 6:00p.m., Live) a pastel pink. Even in large concerts, you can Web mnet.mnet.com/NProgram/mcountdown2 [MBC Show Music Core] (Show Eumak Jungsim) differentiate the fan clubs by the color of (Saturdays 4:00p.m., Live) Web imbc.com/broad/tv/ balloons. Because it is so easy to tell whose ent/musiccore fan club it is, the fan culture has become more orderly and mannerly.

The Evolving Fan Culture In previous years, fandom was proved by how much they loved their stars. But in recent years that has changed. Today’s fan clubs do volunteer work, donations and such in the name of their stars and their fan club. The negative image these fans used to have is gradually changing to a positive energy and culture.

“2012 K-pop Cover Dance Festival” finalists from around the world and citizens of Korea performing K-pop flashmob featuring ’s Gangnam Style at the Gwanghwamun Plaza ⓒVKC 140 | Tour of the Korean Night Life | 141

Partying at clubs, noraebang, DVDbang, then relaxing at a jjimjilbang

Christina Ritts decided to settle in Korea after experiencing the country's nightlife. Ritts said that the Korean nightlife, including the flashing lights, crowds of people, loud music and energy, is like no other.

I still remember my first night in Korea. Flashing lights, crowds of people, loud music and energy like no other filled the bustling streets. It was like the streets of Korea came alive at night. I was surprised by all the busyness that was happening around me at 3:00 in the morning. I was even more surprised that it lasted until 7:00 in the morning. In America, most everything closes at about 1:00a.m. Experiencing this first night in Korea was a culture shock to me, but in a good way. One of the reasons why I’m still in Korea three years later is because of the nightlife here. I’ve traveled to many countries, and I have to say, the Korean nightlife is like no other.

Where I’m from in New Jersey, there is a big Korean population. There are many Korean restaurants, stores and marts. At times, when I would walk into a restaurant, I would see people with bottles of . I knew soju was Korea’s most popular alcoholic beverage and was a great way to taste the authenticity of Korea, but I actually never tried it until I came to Korea.

Christina Ritt

Born 1984 in the U.S., Ritt came to Korea in 2009 to see her sister. She was initially planning to stay only a month, but one month became two, then three, and now it’s been three years. Her hobby is learning K-pop dance moves, and she learned Korean while teaching English to elementary school students. Currently, she is traveling around Korea.

Night life ⓒChristina Ritt 142

143 The first time I tried soju, it tasted similar to , except with a lighter taste. It was good, but what I really became addicted to and still am today is fruit soju! Fruit soju is my favorite drink in Korea, and is basically soju mixed with fruit juice. There are a lot of flavors, such as pineapple, lemon, blueberry, kiwi and even yogurt. They are all so delicious, but I prefer strawberry soju the most! It tends to be a ‘girly’ type of drink because it’s pretty sweet, and at times I have to be careful how much I drink because it can taste like sweet juice. Here in Korea, you can’t drink soju without playing drinking games. It’s part of their culture. Some of the most popular drinking games played are ‘Baskin Robbins 31’, ‘Chopsticks’ and ‘Bottlecap’. These are only a few out of many games played here. When walking into a hof or a , it is common to see people of all ages (legal) shouting, full of energy and acting enthusiastically. The people around them do not care because they are probably acting the same way, and it’s perfectly normal. Koreans really know how to have a good time, and now I can’t drink my strawberry soju without playing a few drinking games. The true beauty of Korea are the illuminating views at night. One of the most spectacular views I’ve seen is the Hangang River night view in Seoul. The colors of the water sparkle and the city as a whole become magnified. The view of N Seoul Tower and Banpodaegyo bridge are some of the sites Enjoying the exciting nightlife of Korea with my sister that light up and make the city shine like a gem. As I was capturing the ⓒChristina Ritt essence of the view, I thought to myself, “This would make a perfect date place if I had a boyfriend”. I looked around me and saw many couples laying on their blankets looking into the scenery, and I felt a little envious. I knew I wanted to come back here with my future boyfriend. It truly is an amazing and romantic place to take your loved one, and is really a memorable experience no matter who you are with. An even more for everyone to enjoy. One of the most spectacular moments was when we amazing experience is to actually be part of the night scenery in Seoul. The saw the sunset. The city glowed and everyone on the ferry was taken back Hangang River ferry cruise is an enchanting and magical evening trip that by how even more beautiful the city became. Overall, the Hangang River is unforgettable. The most popular ferry port to depart from is in Yeouido. ferry cruise was breathtaking and a highlight of our evening. The ferry flows through the middle of Seoul on the Hangang River. Usually when I’m up for a night out with friends, I go to the edgy parts Feeling the gentle breeze and seeing the serene atmosphere makes one of Seoul, such as Hongik University District or Gangnam Area. These feel so peaceful. My first summer in Korea, I went on the Hangang River hot spots are filled with bars, clubs, cafes and shops on every street. There ferry cruise with my sister, and we both enjoyed every minute of it. The are a wide range of dance clubs with hip hop music, techno music, and 63CITY building and the Jamsil Sports Complex are some of the many even places to watch live music. I’m the type of person that can dance the famous tourist spots we saw. On the ferry, there is live music and a buffet night away! So naturally, I discovered many dance clubs in both Hongik 144

145 with. In America, karaoke is where one sings in front of the whole facility, and can be quite embarrassing from what I have heard from my friends. If up for a movie night, there is always a DVD room near by. Whoever you’re with, friends, family, boyfriend or girlfriend, it’s great to catch a movie on a big screen in your own private room, while sitting or laying down comfortably on a big sofa. There are even drinks and food you can purchase. DVD rooms have an array of movies to rent from, so there is a At a noraebang (singing room) ⓒChristina Ritt movie for everyone. I go to a DVD bang at least once a month, because there’s nothing like this in America, and I think the whole idea of having your own private movie room is awesome. Even though many Koreans say DVD bangs are mostly for couples, for intimate reasons, I think it’s a fun and relaxing place to spend with friends or family. Usually after a fun night

University District and Gangnam Area. Some of my favorite clubs include NB, Eden and Club Naked. What’s funny is the first time I stepped into a club here, everyone was facing the D.J. In America, everyone dances all over the place, facing all directions. I was very curious about it so I asked my friend, but she didn’t know either. Till this day, it still remains a bit of a mystery to me, but I do know Koreans love to dance and really express themselves through music. If I ever need a break from dancing, and usually I do after dancing for hours and hours, I go to a bar or restaurant , which are usually filled with people up until the early morning. Even at 5:00 in the morning, people line up at the food vendors to munch on some topokki (Small cylinder rice cakes with a spicy red sauce) and eomuk (Fish cakes on s stick). One of the first words I learned in Korean was bang“ ”, which translates to ‘room’. In Korea, many activities revolve around rooms, such as karaoke rooms, DVD rooms and . And many of these rooms are open twenty-four-seven. Koreans love to sing, and in my opinion, are quite good at it. I think they can sing well due to the numerous karaoke rooms everywhere in Korea. I can spot about 10 karaoke rooms on one street, and sometimes, even more. I am not much of a singer, so at times, I tend to get a bit nervous singing in front of my friends. But I realized nobody really cares if you’re good or not. What I like most about karaoke in Korea is that it’s private. The only people you sing in front of are the people you came Hongik Univ. Street ⓒKTO 146

147 out, I like to go to a jjimjilbang (). A jjimjilbang is a place to sleep, relax, Look Inside! and experience a bath like no other. One can’t leave Korea without visiting a jjimjilbang. Whether going just for the experience or just tired from a long night out and can’t afford to take a taxi home at 4:00 in the morning, one can always stay at a jjimjilbang for a cheap price. The average price is A Guide to Korean “Bang” around 8,000-12,000 won. I enjoy getting a scrub, massaged and soaking in a variety of baths. If I could, I would go to a jjimjilbang everyday! Although translated to ‘room’ in English, the Korean bang has a different connotation. In Korean bang refers to an area where a group of people can share their lives. Recently, many multi-purposed bangs have surfaced.

Unique ‘play rooms’ are especially popular among the young crowd. Korea is really a country that doesn’t sleep. Whether looking for a romantic night out or a place to catch up with friends, nightlife in Korea can be Why rooms? Rooms, how to have fun? for everyone. With such a variety of diverse entertainment, the Korean Used to a communal lifestyle, Koreans enjoy spending It’s easy to have fun at these “bang.” It’s all in the name. nightlife is an experience one can’t ever forget. I think I can remember time together. In the olden days, scholars would At a PCbang, you use the computer, at a singing most every night out in Korea because I always have such a great time. gather in a room and read together and chat. This room, you sing without having to worry about people Korea’s interesting and lively nightlife is truly an impressive and remarkable tradition has evolved into the “bang” culture of today. looking at you. All you have to do to have fun a “room” one. I am looking forward to having many more memorable nights and to These rooms aren’t just for communicating with is do that the name tells you. continue sharing the wonderful experiences I have had here in Korea. friends, but it is also a place of bonding. A Guide to Jjimjilbang (Published August 20th, 2011) Which “bang” should I go to? First, you have to pay, and then they’ll give a uniform The 3 most representative “bang” of Korean include and towels. There are different men’s and women’s the noraebang, where you can sing any your sections. You start by taking a quick shower, then favorite songs; the jjimjilbang, a Korean style sauna; change into the jjimjilbang clothes. You should start and the PCbang, or internet cafe. There are also with the lower temperature rooms. In between rooms sojubang, where you can sit for shot of soju with go to the ice room to cool off, an enjoy an ice cold jug friends, and DVDbang, where you can watch DVDs. of , rice punch, and eggs. Other favorite snacks Beside entertainment focused rooms, there are also include persimmon , miyeokguk (seaweed noribang, which is similar to a daycare, gongbubang, soup), or naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles). or study rooms, sleeping rooms, oxygen rooms, Inside the jjimjilbang, there are nail salons, massage kneading rooms, and much more. chairs, TVs, and more.

Noraebang ⓒKTO Jjimjilbang ⓒKTO 148 | Exploring the Alleys of Seoul | 149 too, began to change—in the 1970s, residents began building brick and concrete stand-alone houses, or munhwa jutaek (modern house). Once one of Seoul’s most affluent neighborhoods—something of the Apgujeong- dong of its day—it is now very much a working-class district, albeit one Experience the Depth of Seoul that is an outdoor museum of the city’s modern history. in the Small Alleys One small but very special piece of this history is hidden in an alleyway just off the main street of the bustling Malli Market. A seemingly ramshackle building of mixed Japanese and Korean style, the Seongwoo Between the Tall Buildings Yiyongwon is Korea’s oldest surviving barber shop. A virtual national treasure, Lee Nam-yeol has been cutting hair for 47 years; his grandfather, only Korea’s second licensed barber, founded the establishment in 1927. Little has changed over the years—even the glass in the windows, some of it held together by tape, is original. Depending on when you go, you may have to wait—word of mouth, and some write-ups in the national press, brings customers from throughout Seoul and even from outside the city, and Lee, even the perfectionist, does not rush his art. Still, waiting is part of the experience—like any good barber, Lee is quite the conversationalist, and the sound of his dancing sheers is positively entrancing. “They played

Cheongpa-dong ⓒRobert Koehler the sound of my scissors three times on the radio,” notes Lee with a smile. It’s neighborhoods such as this one that make Seoul such a fascinating place to live. It is frequently said that despite its 600 years of history as On Sunday, I was wandering about the Cheongpa-dong neighborhood, Korea’s capital, Seoul lacks the same kind of charm as other historic cities exploring its labyrinth of hillside alleyways that overlook the densely around the world. While undoubtedly less true that it used to be, the packed homes and apartments of Yongsan-gu. One of Seoul’s most typical criticism was not completely without basis—Japanese imperialism, the golmok-gil, or alleyway walks, Cheongpa-dong is like walking back in Korean War and development-era urban redevelopment had irrevocably time to the days before high-rises and skyscrapers dominated the skyline. changed the face of Seoul, destroying much of the city’s historic and During the Japanese colonial era, it was a favored by Japanese settlers as cultural heritage. To many, the city seemed little more than an uninspiring a residential district; hidden in its alleys, one can still find a few exotic gray mass of ugly concrete apartments and steel and glass towers. Japanese homes from the 1920s or 1930s, their stucco walls and Japanese- style roofs contrasting sharply with the latter constructions that surround them. After Korea’s liberation from colonial rule in 1945, wealthy Koreans Robert Koehler moved into the neighborhood; some acquired the homes left behind by Born 1974 in the U.S., Robert Koehler came to Korea in 1997 as an English teacher in Mungyeong-si, the Japanese, while others built Korean-style hanok homes, some of which Gyeongsangbuk-do. Six years later, he moved to Seoul for a job at Seoul Selection, a publishing company still stand. After the Korean War, as Korea began to develop, many parts that focuses on books promoting the Korean culture worldwide. In 2009, he wrote the Seoul Selection Guide based on his 13 year Korean experience, for which he won the “Best Foreign Journalist award at the Seoul of the district were renovated or redeveloped to use as clothing factories, Tourism Awards 2010. He is currently the editor of the monthly travel and culture magazine, Seoul. taking advantage of the proximity of Market. The houses, 150

151 I confess that I, too, initially shared this sentiment. I spent my first years Look Inside! in Korea in the picturesque and heritage-rich countrysides of southern Korea; after getting a job as a translator for a national newspaper, I moved to Seoul, but not without a sense of trepidation. To be sure, Seoul was a convenient place to live with fine shops, good schools, decent Western Newly Renovated Alleys of Seoul restaurants and—more to the point—better employment and career opportunities. But would I be happy here? Was not Seoul, in the end, a Seoul changes every day. Old buildings are demolished and new buildings come in, and new apartments are raised in small towns. As urbanization continues, many small alleys are on the verge of disappearing. But still, concrete jungle, with little in the way of spirit, history or soul? there are a few places in Seoul where you can see and feel history. Seoul’s a funny place, though—the city grows on you. They say the more you know about something, the more lovable it becomes, and that’s certainly the case with Seoul. True, the tragedies suffered by the city throughout its modern history robbed it of much of its architectural and cultural heritage. But not all of it. Indeed, a surprising amount of the

Seoul’s history still survives under a skyline of concrete, glass and steel. In Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO every neighborhood, we can find fascinating and often beautiful pieces of the city’s past. Some pieces of this heritage, like the five royal palaces Ihwa-dong Mural Village Hongje-dong Ant Village Samseon-dong Long Life Village or Bukchon Hanok Village, are obvious and visited by all. Much of the This is a representative daldongne This is a cluster of small houses Located between Seoul Fortress city’s heritage, however, is hidden away in little-visited alleyways in places (literally “moon village” for being located by the entrance of the and is like Cheongpa-dong or hidden in plain sight, with millions passing by a poor village on a hill close to Inwangsan Mountain hiking Samseon Park. Stairs, alleys and the moon) close to the young trail. The hardworking people of an embankment surrounding daily but few recognizing their true value. and lively Street of Youth in the this village are often compared the park form this village. The Not far from where I live, for example, on a high school campus secluded in area. Located on to hardworking ants, hence the houses are lined along the steep a back alley just past Yongsan Electronic Mart, is a small red and gray brick the hills of Mountain, name of the village. Many small hill that stretches toward the church on a hill that once overlooked the Hangang River. It’s an incredibly downtown Seoul can be seen alleys stem from the main street Seoul Fortress Wall. Students atmospheric place, an oasis of tranquility in the heart of the metropolis. Few from this village. In 2006, the of the village, and young art of Hansung University have people could even tell you that it’s there, however, let alone that it’s over a “Public Art Project” began the students have decorated the walls colorfully decorated the walls of renovation of Ihwa-dong. Over of the village. Love and affection the village. The murals portray the century old, or that it was built by the same French priest who built the 70 young artists painted murals can be felt in the alleys of Ant young energy and enthusiasm of more famous Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral. But its this anonymity on walls and installed art works Village. the students. Many tourists visit what lends the church, and so much of Seoul, its particular charm. throughout the village. Flowers Address Hongje-dong, Seodaemun- this village to catch a glimpse of I’ve lived in Seoul for over eight years. I’ve spent much of that time decorate the stairways and a maze gu, Seoul this cute village. exploring the cities nooks and crannies, scouring its alleys, mountains and of alleys have turned this old Address Samseon-dong 1-ga, Seong buk-gu, Seoul riversides for pieces of its history and culture. I’ve even written a guidebook village into a new art village full of to the city. There are times when I think I’ve seen it all, but hardly a week life and energy. Address Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul goes by without me discovering a new treasure I didn’t know about, or a new aspect to a favorite destination. As I sip a cup of coffee in Lee Nam-yeol’s barber shop, enjoying the sweet music of the artists’ scissors, I contemplate the beauty of this truly special city. (Published February 3rd, 2012) 152 | Korean Popular Music | 153

I got to know Korean songs through Living in Seoul for the past year and a half, I find it amazing how family Chu Ga-yeoul, and friendship values and respect is maintained given the fact that life in this well developed, advanced and colourful country can be very fast. and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through Maintaining the deep rooted heritage and presenting a shiny image of Korea in all aspects is something I feel almost everyone in this great Shim Su-bong nation is committed to contributing to. Hat’s off...

Music, soul food, is also something that Koreans have developed a great taste for. I have had the pleasure of experiencing traditional Korean How do you like Korea? A question that I have been faced with since music performances and Korean pop songs that are becoming an I arrived to Seoul in October 2010 to set up the embassy after almost international phenomenon really and simply a pleasure to experience. 49 good years of diplomatic relations between our two countries. That October Seoul was the host of the G20 Summit and our offices were In Seoul today, I enjoy Korean songs, and try to learn the lyrics as well, initially set up at Lotte Hotel Seoul in downtown’s Myeong-dong. in a bid to increase the volume of my Korean word pile and get a better understanding or a sense of what really matters to our friends here. Traffic in the capital is never easy, so I thought to myself, how would it be possible to move around 20 heads of states and their entourage and Songs I really came to appreciate in Korea are by Ms. Shim Soo-bong, what have you in such conditions? The Korean Government issued a for example, and by Mr. Chu Ga-yeoul, who I now know personally plea to the people to use public transportation during the Summit. I was I am happy to add. I first heard one of his songs being played by a live amazed how the public responded graciously and traffic was actually band at Lotte, the title “나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room for much smoother. Hence, my first developed impression on Korea that its people are really dedicated and responsible. They are also kind, supportive and helpful – especially to strangers.

Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Omar Al-Nahar ⓒOmar Al-Nahar Born 1969 in Jordan, Omar Al-Nahar learned English through pop music. He studied politics and business Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Album administration in Jordan and started his jobs at the Jordan Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1992. In October of 2010 he was the first Ambassador of Jordan to be appointed to Korea. As he was preparing the opening Titled "There are Different Ways to Happiness," of the Jordan Embassy in Seoul, he became interest in Korean song after hearing Chu Ga-yeoul’s songs. He Chu Ga-yeoul's 3rd album contains "나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room For Me?)" liked Korean songs so much that he installed a karaoke machine at the embassy and improved his Korean Ambassador Omar Al-Nahar has Chu's signed CD, and he still sings along Chu's songs by singing Korean songs. downloaded on his iphone. 154

155 Me?)” The song’s beat, the rhythm, is quite fresh and captivating at the Look Inside! same time and really got me curious about Korean music.

When I asked about the singer someone told said Chu Ga-yeoul. What came to mind almost instantly was that I really wanted to meet this Chu Top 10 Songs Koreans Love Ga-yeoul to thank him for the music... A few weeks later it so happened that I was having dinner with a good doctor friend of mine from Seoul In 2011, a list of the Top 10 most loved Korean songs was released. In memory of the 46th anniversary of Korean FM radio, the Korea Broadcasting System surveyed 26,272 radio listeners. The No. 1 song was “Gwanghwamun National University Hospital who offered to make the introduction Yeonga (Gwanghwamun Sonata)” released over 20 years ago. since, he told me, he knows Mr. Chu and that held a charity performance at his hospital before. Not too long after I had the pleasure of meeting

Mr. Chu and we had a good night out with friends. He, unsurprisingly, Learn Korean Through Even though time has changed everything without a trace, enchanted us with his crystal like voice. To my mind, he is a great singer, the Palace Stonewall Road still has couples walking hand in hand. Even though we too will be a magnificent guitarist and composer and truly noteworthy. People gone with time, down the hill on Jeongdong-gil A snow-covered church will still remain. When my heart longs for the flowery scents of May, to the snowy Gwanghwamun Intersection I come again. sing his songs all the time, and although initially I did not know what the song is about, it got me hooked to Korean songs that I am always No. 1. Gwanghwamun Sonata song of the Seo Taiji & Boys. This superstar with this song. happily sharing with Korean and other friends. A most effective tool of (Gwanghwamun Yeonga) 3-member band was a sensation and communication, if I may add, especially in the absence of my Korean Ballad released in 1988 by Lee began the hip-hop craze in Korea. No. 8. Candy language skills... Moon-sae. The lyrics portray the This was the title song of H.O.T’s first romantic atmosphere of area No. 5. Morning Dew (Achim Iseul) album release in 1996. H.O.T. started To Koreans reading this, your Republic has something good to offer to between Deoksugung Palace and This was the debut song of folk the boy-band craze in Korea. Gwanghwamun Gate. singer Yang Hee-eun in 1970. This the world in many aspects than what meets the eye really by virtue of its was an era when young voices No. 9. Gee people, their commitment and strive towards a better way life. May you No. 2. My Love, By My Side wanted to be heard. And this song This is the 2009 hit song of the (Nae Sarang Nae Gyeotae) prosper... put Korean music at a top level. world-famous girl group Girls’ Released in 1991, this is the last Generation. Their colorful skinny song Kim Hyun-shik, who died No. 6. Come Back to Busanhang How do you like Korea? I simply love it… (Published March 16th, 2012) jeans and cute choreography Port (Dorawayo Busanhangeh) only months after the release. stole the hearts of fans worldwide This was a remake of a 1970s song You can feel his love for singing through UCCs. through his voice. titled “Come Back to Chungmuhang Port” Cho Yong-pil sang the song in No. 10. Dance with D.O.C. No. 3. Because I Love You 1975 and became a national song (D.O.C. wa Hamkkae Chumeul) (Saranghagi Ttaemunae) that even spread to Japanese fans. This was a 1997 hit song of the Released in 1987, Yu Jae-ha was dynamic hip-hop trio DJ DOC. This a genius singer-song writer he No. 7. To J (Jey Ege) song got the whole country doing was killed in a car accident after This was the Grand Prize winning the “bus driver dance.” Everyone releasing only one album. This song at the 1984 Gangbyeon automatically stretched their arms song is about himself. Song Festival sung by Lee Sun- as if holding the driving wheel of hee. The words depict the sweet a bus and moving side to side. No. 4. I know (Nan Arayo) love about a person with the Release in 1992, this was the title initial J. Lee Sun-hee became a 156 | Busan's Sajik Baseball Park | 157 I’m one of those guys from the other side of the world. Though, sometimes it feels like I’m completely from another world. I even have the card to prove it. I’m a registered alien. Moving to a different country exposes us to many new experiences. And while some hit me negatively and took time to get used to, others were surprisingly refreshing. I caught While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi” myself saying, “Why don’t we do things like this in Texas?” For example, one of those was eating out of the same stew bowl with others at my table. It made me feel close to those with me. Even my germaphobe I too became friend was dipping his spoon in the same stew bowl with me before long. This new world was full of new experiences to have. a Citizen of Busan Another set of great new experiences were at the ballpark in Sajik-dong. I like my baseball as much as the next guy, but this was so much more than just baseball. You may say, “Actually baseball really isn't my thing.” That's okay. I've met several people who love going to the baseball game and still don't know the rules. There are many other things that attract people to baseball games than just baseball. It's like a party. Busan is a baseball city so fans are really passionate about the Lotte Giants. They cheer, shout, sing, boo, chant and yell even if they don't know the rules. In Sajik Baseball Park, you will find the baseball culture found in most stadiums around the world. But you will also find some very unique things. Fans don’t only do the wave, but in Sajik-dong they also do a slow motion wave and there is a special cheer for every player. Many fans make pompoms out of newspapers to cheer with. And if you're lucky enough to score some tickets on the first base side you can see the sexy cheerleaders dance and cheer. It's enough to get any red-blooded American guy's heart pumping... or any guy for that matter. Other events between innings keep the fun going like kiss time, dancing king, Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒJoongAng Daily and other performances by the cheerleaders and other mascots. On top of that, here some things that are really unique to Busan baseball. Near the end of the game stadium officials pass out garbage bags to get fans involved in helping with the clean-up, but fans fill them with air Matthew Ambrosia and tie them on their heads to show team spirit. And there are many Born 1976 in Texas, Ambrosia met Korean friends in graduate school. He was introduced to Korean food and culture through his friends, and the more he knew, variations of this too, from huge hair bows to masks to cute, eared hoods the more he wanted to know. His first trip to Korea was in September of 2001 for made from garbage bags. The fans will also sing a song of Busan pride, a mission trip, and 4 years later he finished his doctorate degree at Pusan National University. As of 2012, he is a professor at the Catholic University of Pusan. “Busan Galmaegi.” There is always something going on to keep the fans involved. 158

159 a ring on my girlfriend's finger. She became my fiancée and agreed to be my girl forever. She will be our future family’s assistant coach and will help raise our own team of little baseball players. My fiancée doesn’t know much about baseball yet. We’ve only started dating this year. But I know the best place to teach her, Sajik Baseball Park! The Giants won their game and I won my fiancée's heart. It was a perfect day, a day I will

At the Busan Sajik Stadium with my fiancé ⓒ Matthew Ambrosia never forget. This alien is feeling less and less like an alien and more and more like an authentic Busan citizen. I've had many exciting, new experiences in Busan, and I know I will have many more in the future. (Published July 6th, 2012)

One of the first things I noticed about Sajik Baseball Park was all the vendors outside the stadium selling food and drinks. Can you really buy food and bring it inside the stadium? Yes, you can! Buy chicken, gimbap, beer, or pizza in front of the stadium or go to the nearby superstore get what you want there, but avoid bringing glass containers into the stadium. And in case you didn't bring enough food, don't worry the food in the stadium is not too expensive either. Unlike at a MBL game, you don't have to get a mortgage for a mid-inning snack. Also the admission is very reasonable. General admission tickets are only 7,000 won and tickets along the baseline are only 10,000 won. The average Major League Baseball ticket is now almost $27. And with those monster stadiums in the west, you still may not be able to see very well. Sajik Baseball Park only holds 28,000 fans, you are always close to the action. However, the games on the weekends are often sold out so you have to get your tickets soon. A Korean friend can help you reserve tickets online or you can buy general admission tickets up to the day before the game at Busan Bank. Most recently I went to a game with my girlfriend. Thanks to a Kim Ju- chan homerun the Giants jumped to an early lead and held on to win the game 6-3. It was quite an exciting game. Being at the game was great, but being with my girlfriend that day was like a dream, so I asked her if I could live in that dream with her for the rest of my life. Later, I slipped Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒMatthew Ambrosia 160

161 Look Inside!

Korean Professional Baseball and its Passionate Fans

March 27, 1982 is very significant day to Korean baseball fans. March 27th is the birthday of Korean baseball. Although it has a short history compared to the States, the fans’ passion for the sport is second to none. Baseball season starts in April and ends in October, and every year eight teams play off.

Batter No. 10 Baseball fanatics dress differently. They recommends going to see a game at wear the full uniform from head to toe, and Busan’s Sajik Baseball Park. First of all, you’ll they follow the team to home and away see people wearing orange trash bags every games. They scream and shout at the top of way they can: on their heads, as ribbons, as Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo their lungs and consider themselves as part t-shirts and more. You’ll also see pompoms of the team. These devoted fans are called made of shredded newspaper. “Batter No. 10.” There are many other things that attract people to baseball games than just baseball. Food Comes First It's like a party. Know the Words Unlike ball parks in the States, in Korea, Each team has a cheer song. On critical you can bring in your own food. The times, when the team needs help, no chicken+beer combo is a must at Korean doubt you’ll hear the bleachers singing ball parks. The Munhak Stadium in Incheon, and screaming the team’s song. In you SK Wiverns’ home park, even has a “Barbecue don’t want to look like a fool, make sure Zone” so people can have a bbq while you know the words to your team’s cheer watching the game. There is also a “Green song. Samsung Lions—Daegu Changa; Kia Zone” where people can bring a spread and Tigers—Mudeunggol Tigers and Namhaeng have a picnic on the grass. Each stadium has Yeolcha; Lotte Giants—Busan Galmaegi; SK a favorite snack: Seoul’s Jamsil Stadium has Wiverns—Yeonan Budu; Doosan Bears—Ya, hamburger and chicken; Gwangju Stadium ya, ya Doosan and Apartment. has (pigs’ trotters); and Daejeon Stadium has udong. Cute, Fun and Wacky Cheering The things you see at Korean ball parks will shock you. Inflatable sticks, headbands with athletes’ names, colored handkerchiefs and boards; these are the normal cheering instruments you’ll see. If you want to see a wackier crowd, Matthew Ambrosia

Lotte fans wearing orange trashbags on their heads at Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo 162 | Incheon International Airport | 163

See the Korean Wisdom at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone for Transit Travelers

Incheon International Airport ⓒKTO

My first visit to Korea was about six years ago by . The Cabin crew offered as ‘beautiful’ service as their beautiful looks. After taking

Han Xiang Ji 韓香子 off, a member of the crew handed an ointment and bandage to me

Born 1983 in China, Han’s first visit to Korea was in 2006. Two years later she started at the end of in-flight meals. I never asked for them but she sensibly working at the Beijing airport branch of Korean Airlines as a service instructor. She was dispatched as the Transit Passengers’ Team at the Incheon Int’l Airport for 6 noticed a cut on my hand, which I had on the day before the trip. I months. Although she’s back in China now, she still misses Incheon Int’l Airport very was so impressed with her thoughtfulness which she could have easily much. She has a great interest in Korea, and the hospitality industry of Korea. overlooked as it was so trivial. I still remember the name of the ointment 164

165 and bandage and often buy them when I visit Korea. Good impressions shower, restaurants, coffee shops, duty free stores offering a wide selection about Korea remain intact in them and I believe good ties with Korea of shopping items ranging from inexpensive to famous brands, traditional may perhaps have started from that incident. Korean cultural experience zone, transfer/transit tour, bookstores and hotels. Who said 'Even a person who brushes your sleeve by is predestined by your karma?' Especially, Incheon International Airport is distinct from other airports In 2008, as if by magic, I got a job from Korean Air where my good in terms of bringing out Korea’s aesthetic beauty. Promoting inherent memory of Korea started and have worked ever since as a customer Korean culture delicately, Incheon International Airport has another services instructor in the China region. In addition I was lucky enough advantage of being the first and last place to deliver beautiful memories to get work in the Incheon International Airport branch office of about Korea to its customers. Korean Air, for six months on transfer from the beginning of this year and a chance to reconfirm profundity of karma. My favorite place in Incheon International Airport is the traditional Korean cultural experience zone. Visitors can appreciate traditional music My duty at the transit passenger team is working in the field for the and can make and take away traditional crafts. Is there any better souvenir convenience of passengers travelling to the third country using Incheon from Korea than these? Recently I dropped by the experience zone for International Airport as a transit port. Although I have worked here my friend’s wedding gift I drew traditional Korean patterns on a wooden only for five months, it was enough time to experience every aspect material provided by the zone and wrote a congratulatory wedding of Incheon International Airport which has been gaining a worldwide message with a brush. My friend was over the moon upon receiving my reputation. cordial wedding gift.

From the perspective of an airlines employee working for Incheon International Airport and as a foreigner, Incheon International Airport always brings me novelty and wonder. The best service is offered to everyone regardless of age and gender – Koreans, foreigners, departing/arriving passengers and transfer/transit passengers – whoever use the airport.

As an airlines crew member, I have used a number of airports in the world but I think Incheon International Airport is simply top notch by offering the perfect service in both hardware and software, having been selected as the world’s best airport for seven consecutive years.

First, Incheon International Airport offers the best convenience to customers by flexible operation of plenty of immigration desks, convenient transfer/transit systems, etc, depending on the number of airport users. In addition, the airport offers a variety of entertainment and amenities such as lounge, internet facility, kids’ playground, free Korea Traditional Cultural Experience Center at Incheon International Airport ⓒHan Xiang Ji 166

167 A traditional craft gallery located on the 4th floor of the Departures Look Inside! Terminal offers traditional Korean sentiment, where I sometimes time travel. You can feel the very breath of traditional Korean wisdom and pursuits of beauty can be found in traditional ceramics, agricultural instruments and apparel of old times. The Best Airport in the World for 7 Consecutive Years, Incheon International Airport I developed my own way of using the airport from a number of trips through Incheon International Airport. When I head for my destination With its opening in 2001, the Incheon Int’l Airport (airport.kr) has since become “the” airport of Korea, and a from China through Incheon International Airport, I drop by the major airport of Asia. Every year, the Airport Council International (ACI) conducts the Airport Service Quality test, and the Incheon Int’l Airport has been voted No. 1 for 7 consecutive years since 2005. This is merely a place of traditional cultural experience zone. I complete ‘my own unique artwork’ transport, it is a multi-purpose facility that please all. for about 40 minutes, go to a bookstore to buy a travel guide and move to the lounge on the fourth floor to enjoy the rest of the time at my Rest, Play and Enjoyment leisure. Over 30 million passengers stop by the Incheon traditional performances and experience Int’l Airport yearly. Being the IT country that programs, are frequented by travelers. When I come back from a trip, tired and exhausted, I go to a shower is it, the lounge provides high-speed internet, Additionally, the Traditional Craft Gallery and place. Other international airports do not offer a shower place or charge and an IT experience center. There is also a the Arrival Hall Culture Street at the Transfer even if there is one. When there is plenty of time, I sometimes get a sauna, a playroom, a golf club, and more. Lounge on the 4th floor of the Passenger massage. After recharging myself in body and spirit, I go to a duty free Additionally, there is a skating rink open 365 Terminal are also worth a visit. days of the year, and a movie theater as well. store to buy various items needed. With all good memories from the Airport Observatory, Joy to the Eyes trip and full of shopping bags big and small, boarding an airplane is All-in-one Convenience At the Airstar Terrace in the observatory on putting a ‘period’ to a satisfactory trip. The Incheon Int’l Airport offers pretty much the 4th floor of the Passenger Terminal, you everything you may need during your stay can see the busy runways. If you have some My work on transfer duty at Incheon International Airport is about to in Korea. You a rent a cellular phone, send a time to spare, the Oseongsan Observatory on end. Who said, karma is ‘ineffable’? The period when I have worked at package or letter home, rent a car, get your Island’s Oseongsan Mountain Incheon International Airport as a foreign staff of Korean Air reminds hair done, dry cleaning, wash your car, get is highly recommended. You can the entire glasses, and if you don’t feel good, there’s airport from here, and road that stretches me of my indescribable and mysterious connection with Korean Air and also a hospital and a pharmacy. There is also from the parking lot to the observatory offers Incheon International Airport and their growth will make me happy. a prayer room that can be used by anyone a spectacular view of nature. It’s 20 minutes th (Published July 20 , 2012) regardless of religion. And of course, there is a from the airport by car. business center.

Experiencing the Korean Culture For first time travelers to Korea, the airport the cultural facilities at the airport couldn’t be any more useful. The Korean Culture Museum, which is co-operated with the , and the Traditional Culture Experience Zone, which provides various 168 | Train Journey | 169 Every time I hear the chimney whistle of a train, I will have a sudden urge to go for a tour. I finally had the train ride of my dreams in Korea.

In China, the train is merely a mode of transportation, but the train in Romance Korea can be treated as a luxury hotel along the tracks. in Public Transportation Korea’s Haerang Rail Cruise started from Seoul Station, which runs at a speed of 100 km/h. The main itinerary included going through the South West (SW) of Korea, the South East (SE) Korea, or the whole of Korea for 2D1N or 3D2N, which will end back in Seoul Station.

The rooms in the Haerang Rail Cruise are in the form of clean and neat hotel-style rooms, with posh ambience-filled restaurants, and large lounge areas. Passengers can sleep in their hotel-room styled rooms, so that Haerang Rail Cruise passengers can visit many touristy places in Korea during the 2D1N (or 3D2N). Compared with the usual train express tours, Haerang Rail Cruise is not only comfy and convenient, but also brings the hotel onboard your train journey.

For this summer holiday, I wanted to have first-hand experience of the Korean culture and the passion of the Korean people. Therefore my best friend and I have decided to take the Haerang Rail Cruise to go through the SE of Korea. I heard that the famous scenic spots where many stars had their dramas filmed were in Korea. Therefore, I wanted to express for myself what it was like to be the female protagonist of a Korean drama. At 8:15a.m., we assembled at a cafe at Seoul Station. Passengers of the

Filling lunch box ⓒJin May-ling Haerang Rail Cruise shall enjoy a free cup of coffee. After allocating the rooms and distributing the keys, we were ready to hop aboard. The train’s exterior was magnificent. We could see the train’s interior design from outside. But not to worry, the windows have curtains.

Jin May-ling 金美玲 The Haerang Rail Cruise was ready to start off. I started exploring the Born 1989 in Guangzhou, Jin May-ling fell in love with Korea through dramas. In 2008 she decided to come to Korea and enrolled herself at . bedroom with a heart full of curiosity. The rooms in the Haerang Rail She joined the school’s foreigners’ service center and the leisure sports club. She Cruise were no different from ordinary hotel rooms, as they were divided took part in promoting Korea by being a supporter of Dokdo Island, a university supporter of the Visit Korea Committee, and more. As of 2012, she is a senior at into deluxe rooms, standard rooms, family rooms, and suites. Facilities such Konkuk University majoring in Business Administration. as indoor beds, bathrooms (shower rooms), TVs were in place. Here, we 170

171 can also enjoy ourselves in an in-train cinema. Apart from the facilities Performances also included performances by the train crew, whereby listed above, the deluxe rooms also come with a separate home theatre they had prepared different talent shows for passengers of different ages. and sofa seats. The rooms also came with clothes hangers, paper towels, Children’s songs were sung for children, and a gayageum performance slippers, mirrors, litter bins, telephones, and others. The bathrooms was prepared for the elderly. The passengers also raised their hands to were equipped with hair dryers, towels, a wash basin, and toiletries. cheer for the performers. The hot favorite was the magic show, whereby I couldn’t believe that I could find so much in a train. Therefore, all I the magician prepared an empty bottle to show a child that there was would need to bring onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise was just a few nothing inside. The child would verify that the magician has sprinkled sets of clothes. magic powder into the empty bottle. After tapping the empty bottle lightly, it will be filled with water. Everybody gradually opened up their The train’s lounge would include an introduction of the train crew and hearts as the crew members engaged the passengers with activities. there were performances in store for us. Before the programs started, the crew would inform all the passengers to proceed to the large lounge to During the lounge performances, the staff will prepare some wine, soft watch the performance. drinks, dried beef, fruits, and cheese, so that they can enjoy eating while After the introduction of the train crew, everyone in the train shall start watching the performance. giving their self-introductions, and the friendly service crew members shall without a doubt, provide their services with smiles, and accede to During lunchtime onboard Haerang Rail Cruise, the phones in the the reasonable requests of passengers. They are determined to strive to rooms shall ring at lunch time to inform the passenger to proceed to the create a comfortable and happy travelling and leisure environment for their dining cabin for lunch. The dining cabin was by no means inferior to any passengers. The self-introduction of the passengers was really heart-moving.

On board with us were two sisters who had lost their mother, so they boarded the Haerang Rail Cruise to lift their moods. Passengers included a family of six that was on board to celebrate their grandfather’s birthday, a sweet couple with a baby, a touching old couple whereby one was taking care of the other who was sickly, university students who were getting ready to leave their parents for further studies, and university students who are on holiday. We can see that they love and care for the person next to them, since that person is their family member or friend who is close to them, Everyone on board Haerang Rail Cruise had a touching story to tell. Be it good or bad, travelling with friends or family is a wonderful thing. Through the self-introduction of the passengers, I also felt blessed. When confronting difficulties in future, I shall recall the struggles they shared. Whenever I went for train tours with my parents or friends in China, I was happy. However, onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise, I really felt a heart- moving warmth. Haerang Rail Cruise ⓒKORAIL Tourism Development 172

173 the Haerang Rail Cruise bedrooms are slightly smaller than hotel bedrooms, and also shake regularly as the train moves. The fees charged at the scenic spots are not a lot. The Haerang Rail Cruise staff shall introduce the scenic spots while following the passengers.

Haerang Rail Cruise and its friendly crew ⓒJin May-ling Seoul Station – POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co. (site bus tour and en route factory visit) – Wolseong Yangdong Village, Gyeongju-si (experience Korean history) – Dinner (Gyeongju Hanjeongsik), Chongdong Theatre Gyeongju Performance Show – (Day 2) Jeongdongjin (view of sunrise) – Mangsang Station (ocean view) – Breakfast (hwangtae Soup) – Mureung Valley (Fun at the valley), Samhwasa Temple (Pray ordinary restaurant, filled with ambience, necessarily equipped as would to Buddha) – Taebaek Station, lunch (Taebaek Korean Beef) – Chujeon an ordinary restaurant, and with first class service rendered. Keeping Station – Group photo (train station with the highest elevation in Korea) – in line with the environmental conservation movement, Haerang Rail arrive at Seoul station. Cruise does not use disposable lunch boxes. Beef and fish will be served in these high-end lunch boxes, and they tasted unique and exquisite. On the first day we visited the POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co,. Since Taking into consideration the health of the passengers, the in-train the steel factory was very large, we went for a bus tour to view the inside kitchen staff also prepared raw vegetables, chilies, garlic, and doenjang. of the steel factory. I saw smoke coming out of their many chimneys that The beef-lettuce ssambap was very tasty. Also included were the famous formed what appeared like moving clouds. Entering the steel factory, I saw kimchi, and ojingeo . With all these, one big bowl of rice wouldn’t that the workers were wearing masks since the steel factory had a lot of seem enough. The friendly service staff will be standing around ready soot. There was no rain on that day, but the ground was full of water. If we to serve. Another plus point about Haerang Rail Cruise was that there take a closer look, there were a number of small taps along the road. Many was no surcharge on extra food consumed no matter how much you ate, trees were planted to purify the air. A while later, I saw the harbor and a since the meal price has been included in the train ticket price. large cargo ship. I was so impressed. I didn’t expect there to be a harbor within a factory. There were a number of small hills within the factory Several magazines are available in the cabins, with a whole array of the premises containing materials for steelmaking and water-park-like transport latest DVDs. The cabin also provided free internet. I have never seen a tubes. I simply can’t expect less from the world’s largest steel factory. In the train as luxurious and comfortable as this. afternoon, we proceeded to watch the signature performance of Gyeongju- si at Chongdong Theatre – Miso2. Miso was a stage performance show that Aura Tour (Around the whole of Korea through SW and SE of Korea, included the Korean national music, dance, and agricultural music. Since this and along the Yellow Sea) performance did not include any spoken lines, you won’t need to understand Korean to appreciate this performance. The performers will present their Although the Haerang Rail Cruise is slightly expensive, it includes food story to you through music and dance, and foreign tourists can relax and and lodging. Therefore, it is possible to rest comfortably in the train’s enjoy the Korean cultural performance. Not long ago, I watched a foreign hotel-room style bedroom, and enjoy views of Korea’s scenic areas while musical in Korea. Although the performance had spoken lines, I could not the train is moving. Such a tour provides a form of novelty. The beds in understand the story in the musical. However, the Miso2 performance had 174

175 me drawn into the story, and the impression left on me was deep. The Look Inside! stage itself was dazzling as the lights kept changing according to the different music, scenes, and costumes, which left us in perpetual awe. The dance moves and expressions of the performers were very lively. I have never seen such a fantastic performance. I recommend that every visitor A Romantic Train Journey to Korea or foreigner friend should watch Miso2. After the performance was over, you could take photos together with the performers, and you What’s so romantic and dreamy about a train journey? Riding the train through the night, or traveling along the coastline, taking the train wherever it is you are going to, will make your memories a bit more romantic and could also do so while donning the traditional Korean hanbok. I’ve seen a dreamy. Below are a few of Korea’s unique train rides. number of tourists from China watching the performance.

Sea Train On the second day, the train stopped at Jeongdongjin Station where the This Sea Train runs along the East Sea between do, Yangpyeong in Gyeonggi-do, Daecheon in distance between the station and the sea was the shortest in the world, Gangneung-si, Donghae-si and Samcheok- Chungcheongnam-do, and Mungyeong-si in allowing us to watch the sunrise. At around 4a.m., I donned my overcoat, si in Gangwon-do. Because the seats of the Gyeongsangbuk-do. took out my camera and hurried out of the train. I didn’t expect the train are facing the window, tourists can enjoy [Jeongseon Railbike] Address 290-4 Guseok-ri, the refreshing view of the East Sea during Yeoryang-myeon, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do train to stop by the seaside. Many people were waiting at Jeongdongjin Web railbike.co.kr the entire 58-km-ride. Every day, 2 to 3 trains Station to watch the sunrise. The morning seaside temperature was [Samcheok Ocean Railbike] Address 146-10 Gung depart from both Gangneung Station and chon-ri, Geundeok-myeon, Samcheok-si, Gangwon- freezing, but I waited a while more for the sun to rise. Finally, I witnessed Samcheok Station, and it takes about 1 hour do Web oceanrailbike.com the first streaks of golden rays rising from the east. All of a sudden, the and 20 minutes one-way. seaside was painted scarlet, so fast that no one had the time to think that Address [Samcheok Station] 51-4 Sajik-dong, Samcheok- Seomjingang Steam Locomotive this is a sunrise. When I saw the sunrise, I closed my eyes and made a si, Gangwon-do, [Gangneung Station] 118 Gyo 2-dong, This is a 10-km railroad between Gokseong Gangneung-si, Gangwon-do Web seatrain.co.kr wish. I wished to experience more surprises in Korea that I won’t forget Station and Gajeong Station in Jeollanam-do. A steam locomotive runs along Seomjingang for a lifetime. The Korean drama “Sandglass” was filmed in Jeongdongjin, Railbike River at a speed of 30 to 40 km/h. This could and “We Got Married”, a Korean drama which is a hot favorite in 4-wheeled pedal bikes run on recycled train be a time spent to yourself. It is 80 minutes rails. Depending on how hard you pedal, Mainland China was also filmed in Jeongdongjin. In future, I will want round-trip and it departs from Seomjingang you can control the speed and enjoy the to visit Jeongdongjin with my boyfriend to watch the sunrise. This is Train Village, the country’s first train-themed surrounding view and nature. Railbikes are very beautiful and romantic. park. available in Jeongseon-gun and Samcheok-si I saw quite a number of scenic views during the 2D1N, all thanks to Address 232-1 Gichamaeul-ro, Oji-ri, Ogok-myeon, in Gangwon-do, Gokseong-gun in Jeollnam- Gokseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Web gstrain.co.kr Haerang Rail Cruise. If not for Haerang Rail Cruise, I certainly won’t have been able to cover so many places in such a short time, and won’t have been able to enjoy such luxurious services either. (Published August 17th, 2012)

Seomjingang Train Village ⓒKTO 176 Taste 177

Danny Wen Marja Vongerichten of Korea Jeonju Bibimbap Native Foods of Korea - - Chua Lam Pierre Gagnaire Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area Tour of Traditional Markets - - Fouz Khalid Khan Jennifer Flinn Korean Street Food Food Culture of Andong-si

Nature, Health & B o d y

Hanjeongsik ⓒKorea House 178 | Jeonju Bibimbap | 179 To be honest, before my trip to Korea, my understanding of the country was limited to and kimchi as well as the Shin Ramen (spicy instant noodles) that do not get sodden no matter how long you cook them.

My view of was narrow as I first came into contact with it in the form of lunch box exchanges with a couple of Korean students A spoonful in college when I lived in Los Angeles years ago. I remembered the fiery kimchi which did not smell too pleasant but left an exceptional culinary of colorful ingredients, impression with its tart but surprisingly appealing taste. Unfortunately, I began to lose interest after five lunches with varying combinations of kimchi that looked about the same. However, it was because of this wow! experience that I came to know about the role and significance of kimchi in the Korean culture and it also formally opened the first door for me to Korean cuisine.

Subsequently, I followed my Korean friends to in Los Angeles and came to know about bulgogi. Not only did it change my wrong perception that Korean food only consisted of the cold and pickled kimchi, it also showed me the intricate aspect of Korean cuisine. By wrapping grilled meat that has been dipped in bean and chilli sauces and slices of garlic and some rice in fresh lettuces, one gets to savor a multi- layered symphony of tastes, not to mention balanced nutrition from the , meat and rice combination. A small bite and yet a generous dose of healthy living. It was a truly fascinating encounter.

It goes without saying that I also came to know about and enjoy the Shin (spicy) brand of Korean instant goodness through my Korean friends. It

Danny Wen

Born 1967 in Taiwan, Danny Wen is the most famous and influential travel reporter in Taiwan. Since his debut in 1992, he has published 18 guidebooks and cooking books, most of which have become bestsellers. He has appeared on TV and radio show and has also been featured on various magazines.

Jeonju bibimbap ⓒDanny Wen 180

181 bibimbap were remarkable and mind-blowing. It was already a visual treat even before I tasted it.

I could not help but keep taking pictures of this masterpiece in front of me but my friends were urging me to mix the ingredients in the pot. I Gochujang ⓒKTO did pause but was hesitant about breaking up such a work of art. Then again, I would be missing the essence of bibimbap if I did not mix its ingredients. It would defeat the purpose of me taking a three-hour ride from Seoul to Jeonju to sample the top-ranking dish in Korean cuisine. Hence, bracing myself, I lifted the metal spoon and stirred the ingredients furiously and mindlessly. “That’s right!” said my Korean friend who was beaming at me from across the table. “The more evenly mixed it is, the better it tastes.” was another of my great discoveries of fresh and interesting conveniences in life. However, after more than a decade of living in Los Angeles, my The funny thing was that although the mixed bibimbap looked far from knowledge of Korean cuisine was sadly limited to these three items. pretty, it tasted out of this world and I could not stop helping myself to it. It was such joy stuffing my mouth with it while exchanging knowing My visit to Korea proved to be an eye opener as it presented to me the looks of “This is delicious!” with those around me. diversity of the country’s cuisine in the form of ginseng chicken soup, cold noodles, chicken , tofu pot noodles and raw beef salad, as well as the delicate Korean table d'hote, which was simply delectable, and its varied methods of preparation was mind blowing. However, the most unforgettable flavor that I experienced in my Jeollabuk-do trip had to be the bibimbap which tasted out of this world.

I remember that when the waitress at the restaurant placed the brass pot of bibimbap on my table, my eyes were immediately drawn to its colorful contents and I was almost oblivious to the other delicious side dishes on the table. I gently lifted the pot and tilted it left and right as if I was closely examining and enjoying a work of art.

I was visually counting the number of ingredients that had been placed on the rice in the pot and I could not help but grin even wider as the number rose. Those sharing my table might not have heard any sigh of amazement but I was silently taken aback in wonderment. The art and aesthetics in the small smorgasbord of plebeian cuisine that was Jeonju bibimbap (bibimbap served in a hot stone pot) ⓒKTO 182

183 I was surprised, in particular, by the role of the hot sauce in bibimbap. Look Inside! I thought it would be strong and mask the other flavors in the pot. To my amazement, the slightly sweet condiment plays an important role of balancing and harmonizing the various ingredients. It also enhances their flavors and acts as seasoning, allowing one to taste the different flavors of the Useful Guide to Korean Snacks ingredients as well as stimulating the secretion of saliva with its mildly spicy taste. It was complete satisfaction on an emotional level and truly moving. Bulgogi, kimchi, ramyeon, bibimbap, etc. These are just the tip of the iceberg. Beginning with the basic table setting of rice, soup and simple side dishes of the commoners, to the elaborate 12-dish table of the king, the Korean table is an assortment of rich tastes and flavors. I cannot remember the name of the well-known person who said the Jeonju bibimbap was plebeian cuisine that was not presentable. I beg to differ and the person who made such a comment was more likely ignorant about appreciating and enjoying fine cuisine. To me, the finest cuisine is anything that tastes great or makes one’s taste buds dance with joy. Not only is the Jeonju bibimbap an artistic treat that pleases our senses of taste and sight, it is also a cultural thanksgiving. More importantly, not Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒKTO Bulgogi (grilled marinated beef) ⓒKTO only does the marriage of various ingredients and rice smell, taste and look heavenly, it is a well-balanced dish and I truly believe it should be The Basic Table Setting Guk vs. Tang vs. Jjigae The Korean table is meant to be eaten with rice, The Korean table must have a soup dish. Guk, tang, considered one of the healthiest dishes from a nutritional point of view. therefore unlike other countries, a Korean meal table and jjigae are all soup based dishes that even Koreans consists of a bowl of rice and soup, and a few side have a hard time differentiating. Guk, or soup, has I slowly finished my last mouthful and declared with a contented smile, “The dishes served at once. Although in recent years the more water than solid ingredients; tang, or casserole, three-hour journey is truly worth it for a taste of such bliss” - a statement western custom of dividing the meal in a number has less water and more meats and vegetables; and that was greeted with a round of applause from my satisfied company. courses— appetizer, entrees and desserts— the finally jjigae, or stew, has about the same amount of (Published January 7th, 2011) traditional Korean meal has only one course. both.

Odd Number of Side Dishes Noodles, a Special Dish for Noblemen Hansik, or Korean food, was traditionally a single- Noodles are normally thought of as economical and person table, and the higher your rank was in the good for a light meal. But, in the Joseon Dynasty, family, the number of side dishes on the table noodles were a specialty served to guests. Back in the increased. Rice and soup were the most basic, and days, most of the farmland was rice fields, and so flour kimchi, jjigae (stew), and condiments were not was valuable. Flour noodles were an expensive food considered side dishes. Depending on the number of that even noblemen only enjoyed on special days. side dishes the table was called sam-cheop (3-dish) This is why to this day, noodles are always served at a or o-cheop (5-dish) table. The number of side dishes Korean wedding. on the table were always odd, 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. except for that of the king, in which case it was called surasang and had 12 side dishes. 184 | Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area | 185 “Korean food is not delicious. Is there anything else to eat other than Samgyeopsal: sliced bacons?” It is easy to find those who criticize Korean food like this among Hong Kong netizens. However I would call them ‘a big fish in a little pond’. The Korean foods I’ve tasted so far were all different and distinctive in their own right. After my trip to Gwangju, I could confirm that I was not far off the mark. Food critic from Hong Kong Koreans do not react when I talk about Seoul or Busan, but they put thumbs up when they are told that I am going to eat in Gwangju. can’t stop eating Namdo food Transportation from Seoul to Gwangju was not very convenient before but it takes only four hours by car after Ex-president, Kim Dae-jung built a direct expressway.

After arriving in Gwangju, I headed for Yeonggwang-gun as soon as I did unpacking at the lodging. Crape myrtles were lined along the road all the way down to Yeonggwang-gun. I was really surprised to learn that Korea spends a lot of money for environmental landscaping. I stumbled upon a rock, carved in Chinese characters, saying “This is the first arrival place of Baekje Dynasty Buddhism”. Buddhism was introduced to Korea in AD 384. There is a Christian Martyrs’place as well as Buddhist martyrs’ in Yeonggwang-gun. Christianity (Catholics and Protestants) and Buddhism are centered on Yeonggwang-gun as its place name suitably suggests, “Spirits Shine”.

But the purpose of this trip was to look for a yellow croaker. Yellow croakers are already endangered in the South of the Yangtze River but

Chua Lam 蔡瀾

Born 1941 in Singapore. From 1963, Chua produced several movies in Hong Kong, including various Jackie Chen movies. Since the 1980s he has worked as a travel and food columnist and has published over 100 books on travel and food. He is a respected food critic with 14 restaurants. In 2007 he put together a book on Korean food.

Juktongbap (rice cooked in a bamboo canister) ⓒKTO 186

187 give out a strong ammonia smell when being fermented. But a wrap of a piece of dried yellow croaker, samgyeopsal and matured kimchi would give another distinct flavor.

Although I was full up, I had to visit other restaurants to learn about various foods in Gwangju region. This time I was in for freshwater eels. There was fire on the table and a female chef brought out two eels and

Chua Lam eating baemjangeo gui (grilled eel) ⓒJoongAng Daily began to grill one on each side. On the left hand side was an unseasoned eel and a marinated eel with hot pepper paste was on the right hand side. Before grilling, two eels were half done because they were already steamed.

I ate an unseasoned eel dipping in sauce and its thick meat was oily, shiny and delicious. A seasoned one was also soft and fresh, preserving eel’s inherent flavor without any loss or damage. I have not tasted such fresh eels for a long time. I have tried foods from the sea and the river and it was time for food taken from the mountains. So I went to try juktongbap Goseong-gun near Yeonggwang-gun is a natural habitat for them. Yellow which cooks brown rice, red jujubes and rice in a large bamboo tube. croakers captured here are sent to fisheries market all over the country. Opening the lid of juktongbap helps release the scent of rice and bamboo I asked a friend what a yellow croaker is called in Korean when I saw ever so gently. In addition to juktongbap, there is a juktongju: Bamboo them in clusters tied together. I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are . There is a hole at the back of the bamboo tube; I wonder how called gulbi in Korea. liquor was poured into it.

Koreans consider Korean beef to be a quality gift, but gulbi is considered To add more flavor to the juktongbap, I ordered a beef rib dish which to be of a higher quality. Chinese think eating fresh yellow croakers are looked different from the one I tried before. I asked the chef the name very important but Koreans have different ideas. Koreans think that dried and charcoal-grilled yellow croakers; boneless meat carved out, taken with drinks are most delicious. I purchased a few fresh yellow croakers at a local market after looking for them high and low and took them to the best local restaurant to have them cooked. At this restaurant 30 to 40 I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are side dishes are served and a main dish is gulbi. The first dish was a stewed called gulbi in Korea. gulbi, which was salted, but its original fresh taste still remained.

I was not able to eat the next dish, a dried yellow croaker (gulbi) because the texture of the meat was too tough and passed it onto Korean friends. But gulbi broth which was boiled with tofu using a restaurant’s special sauce was very delicious. Another dish was a salted gulbi, and it would Gulbi ⓒKTO 188

189 of the dish and she answered, “filial rib!” It is called a filial rib because Look Inside! the rib meat is carved and sliced to make it soft so that the elderly can easily eat the meat. As such ‘filial affection’ is a traditional Korean virtue.

Korean set meals, especially a set meal in Gwangju offers a variety Hansik Dishes Recommended by Chua Lam of dishes as good as a banquet. In a set meal, there are rice, soup and other dishes which you may like or not. Anyway there are bound to be Known as the food god of Hong Kong, food columnist Chua Lam has done interviews with JoongAng Daily newspaper in 2010 and 2011 regarding the globalization of Korean food. He enjoys Korean food, and here, he your favorite dishes among them for sure. While waiting for dishes, I introduces a few of his favorite dishes. wandered around the restaurant. Many pots were lined up in a row and all different kinds of vegetables were planted in a garden. It is important that some dishes are served with vegetables and one of them is “ kimchi”. The dish which is made of minced beef and put on a crab carapace can be found only in Gwangju. Hongeo Samhap with kimchi (fermented skate and steamed pork slices served) ⓒKTO Galbijjim (braised short ribs) served in a stone pot ⓒKTO After main dishes were served on the table, a pine mushroom dish, a pan- fried beef dish with spring onions and gulbi follow. A soup made of seaweed Jeonbok Samgyetang Gulbi gui and oysters was served but not very tasty. But once you taste soy milk you Samgyetang is a nutritious soup Yellow corvina is salted then left samgyeopsal (), and know that it is excellent with its fragrance. The dishes are not salty, therefore made by boiling a whole chicken to air dry on the beach. When kimchi. The combination of the ordinary customers can enjoy them and especially customers who enjoy stuffed with ginseng, glutinous the fish is dry, it is called gulbi. three is called hongeo samhap. rice, jujubes, milk vetch root and The best gulbi is that made with According to Chua Lam, this is an food can appreciate the flavor. Another special dish is a squid. By appearance chestnuts. An upgraded version of yellow corvina caught in March in acquired taste no other country it doesn’t seem to be special but the squid is cut in the shape of a tire and jeonbok samgyetang, is samgyetang Yeonggwang-gun, Jeollanam-do. can offer. filled with minced squid meat. There isn’t any sweet dish in Korean food with abalone(jeonbok). Abalone Although there are various way to but if you’d like a strong deep sweet taste, a pumpkin boiled with sugar adds flavor and nutrition to the cook gulbi, braised or grilled are Galbijjim would be a good choice. If you’d like a light sweet taste, a jujube tea is already delicious and nutritious the most popular. When my Hong Probably a favorite among foreign recommended. With all these delicious dishes from southern areas, who says samgyetang. Kong friends tried gulbi for the tourists, when making galbijjim, first time, they finished a bowl of pork or beef ribs are marinated Korean food is not tasty and can’t fill the stomach?(Published February 25th, 2011) Maesaengi guk rice in no time. and simmered until meat is soft Maesaengi (seaweed fulvescens) and tender. Chua Lam recommends grows in clean and shallow waters. Hongeo Samhap galbijjim to elders. It is easy to find during the cold Hongeo, or skate is fermented in winters especially in the Jeollanam- an earthen pot with salt and a do and Gyeongsangnam-do. It is bundle of straw. Fermented skate usually cooked with oysters, and it can cooked in various ways, but is high is iron, potassium, protein, no matter how you cook it, the and other vitamins. It is also good unique taste and flavor won’t for when you’re on a diet. be lost. In the Jeolla-do area, fermented skate is eaten with

Samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) ⓒKTO 190 | Korean Street Food | 191 Other people might be tempted to explore more eventful attractions but my preferred touchstone of a country’s culture is its food. And not just the cuisine found in uptown restaurants. It is the street food that so elaborately and without a shred of hypocritical pretence introduces a country to the rest of the world. Not for me the expensive eateries, I tried mandu, eomuk, gimbap, and… dak kkochi replete with hyped up ambience and a show of food bordering on the fake; and although I have had my share of the bibimbap (rice served with at a pojangmacha, red pepper sauce and assorted vegetable in a black stone pot topped with egg) and my bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef grilled on the table) and now I can’t forget the taste! along with numerous side dishes, if I want to taste the real food I will go right where it is simple, natural and easily accessible. That is to say, food prepared by ordinary folks like you and me on the streets. I arrived in Seoul on a cold, cold night shivering both from excitement of being in a new city and its freezing weather. It was a day before the lunar year holidays began and Korea seemed to be wrapping up to go on a three day break. So how was a famished Pakistani student supposed to fill up without even knowing survival Korean? Naturally, it all gravitated to street food. Armed with a Korean phrase book in my hand and a song in my heart, I went on rampage in the neighborhoods in Dongdaemun- gu. Sidewalk carts, all warmly wrapped up and managed by polite and cheerful ladies and scrumptious looking food welcomed me. It was a sight to watch the nicely laden and hygienic carts displaying their colourful fare. I could recognize some of the thing like eomuk (fish cake on a stick) and soft dumplings. A delicious fish broth, known as eomuk gungmul, was aplenty and I later learnt that it was customary for one to drink it after

Assortment of pojang macha foods ⓒKTO having a snack. There were rice cakes, collectively known as gimbap, wrapped up in seaweed and filled with various ingredients. I could taste boiled eggs, shrimps and long green chillies fried in batter along with a heavenly red pepper sauce; my favorites among the plenty of varied and wonderful street food, however, remain the goguma, sweet potatoes fried in batter; gamja, which Fouz Khalid Khan is fried potato cubes with bread crumbs and dak kkochi, or scrumptious Fouz Khalid Khan is a civil servant and is presently posted as Deputy Director of Intelligence & Investigation in the Federal Board of Revenue, Government of Pakistan. He holds degrees in electrical engineering, chicken cubes on a stick served with a variety of sauces. public administration and tax management and has 12 years of experience in various public sector posts. He joined the KDI School of Public Policy & Management in 2011 for a Masters Program in Public Policy and If you think Korean street food is all about snacks with spicy condiments, immediately fell in love with Korea. His hobbies of having gastronomic adventures and photography were you are dead wrong. Some of the most delicious pancakes, or hotteok, I more than satiated during his year long stay. He ate all the exotic foods he could including the famous sannakji (live octopus) and snapped pictures all around Korea, some of which were also published online. have eaten are sold right on the kerb in Seoul. They are filled with honey, He hopes to see more of the country and its wonderful people in future. cinnamon, peanuts and brown sugar and are rich and very satisfying. And 192

193 though you cannot escape The Paris Baguette anywhere in Seoul, yet the Look Inside! hangwa, or traditional Korean confectionary, is a lot tastier than the usual bakery fare. Made with grain flour, fruits, sweet potatoes, honey and edible roots it is a savoury treat, at once tender and not too overly sweet. And what of the beverages? Well, you need not worry about it because Food Alleys in Downtown Seoul although Koreans love their coffee (Seoul is undoubtedly the coffee capital of the world with a coffee house around virtually every street The variety of street food in Korea is endless. There’s bound to be something to suit your palate, and the price is what’s most attractive. In streets and alleys where there are a lot of people, you are sure to find a food cart. Here corner), they still have their traditional cha, or tea; sikhye, or sweet rice I introduce the most tasty and most crowded food alleys in Seoul. drink; and hwachae, or fruit punch along with alcoholic ones like soju and yakju, which are made from rice. However, what I was really dying to taste was the famous Ginseng tea. Made with the roots of Ginseng, a herb found in the mountainous regions of the country which remains one of its most famed exports, Ginseng tea made from a proper 6 year old root is known to have medicinal and invigorating properties. It is an Pojang macha (food cart) ⓒKTO Twigim (), mandu (Korean dumplings), topokki (spicy rice cake) ⓒKTO acquired taste though and may not be suitable for everyone. Perhaps less adventurous souls might prefer saenggang cha, which is made from sliced Insa-dong ginger roots and is excellent in winter months; or gukhwa cha, which is Insa-dong is a must-visit area alleys. Topokki (spicy rice cakes), university areas are the most made from flowers preserved in honey for a month. among foreigners. Lined with twigim (fritters), sundae (Korean diverse food alleys in Seoul. For food adventurers, Korea is a real treat. We have all seen YouTube hanjeongsik (Korean full course blood sausage), eomuk (fish cake) Japanese takoyaki, French crepes meal) and traditional tea houses, and mandu (dumplings) are just and Turkish kebabs, there is a little videos of guys choking on live baby octopus, called sannakji; or people Insa-dong also has a wide variety a few snacks that lure tourists. bit of the world in these university singing praises of the notoriously aphrodisiacal bosintang, or dog soup. But of street food. Especially popular Two treats that you shouldn’t miss streets. Roasted sweet potatoes what can only be experienced inside Korea (and nowhere else) is not among tourists is the kkultarae in Myeong-dong are the 34-cm- and chestnuts are always sold just the authentic flavor but the ambience of the food that the country is cart. Crowds of people gather long soft ice cream cone, and the together and are a must during famous for. around these carts to see how spiraled potatoes. the cold winter days. The Ewha Not until you have had a bowl of tteokguk, the famous rice cake soup traditional string candy is made Womans University, Sungshin known to cure hangovers or tasted kimchi, (the national dish made from from honey malt. While in Korea, Women’s University areas are Reese Witherspoon had a bite of Located near Dongdaemun Market, especially popular for their wide spicy vegetables fermented over time and eaten with almost everything sugar and peanut-filled pancakes Gwangjang Market is a haven array of street foods. and every time of the day) can you understand the rich, vibrant and made of corn flour and fell in love of traditional snacks. From the colourful mix that is Korean cuisine. Since my arrival in Seoul, I have yet with them. No matter how long filing seafood pancakes and thick to eat something that does not fully agree with my palette; the texture, the lines are, don’t make sure you mungbean pancakes, to sundae, smell and the taste is different, to be sure - but once you develop a knack try both of these treats. topokki and gimbap, there is just too for it, Korean food can be one of the most delectable stuff you have ever much to eat here. If there is a little Myeong-dong room left for desert, try the spicy eaten. No wonder Korean language does not seem to have an equivalent Often dubbed the “shopping noodles, made on the spot. of the formal Bon appetite: with food that tastes this good, perhaps they mecca,” the main shopping street th don’t need to! (Published Apri 22 , 2011) of Myeong-dong is lined with University Areas food carts all the way to the back Flooded by students, these 194 | Native Foods of Korea | 195 I was able to see Korea like I had never seen it before during May when I traveled there with a production crew to host an upcoming PBS television show. While my previous trips centered on visiting my family and polishing my karaoke room routine, this most recent trip gave me the opportunity to understand and approach my home and my culture with new information, access and authenticity. People opened their Devotion beyond your imagination, restaurants and homes for us, they showed us around their local markets and explained their signature ingredients, they brought us into their I was humbled fields and factories, into their families and their hearts. by seeing how gochujang is made Among the highlights of our trip was meeting Lee Sook-hee at her restaurant Doorae. On my first visit, Sook-hee taught me how to make homemade gochujang, a labor of love involving techniques I didn’t expect. It was enlightening to learn the steps behind what is perhaps the most significant ingredient in Korean cuisine and also slightly humbling—after seeing all the work that goes into making it, I can never take gochujang for granted. After this lesson, Sook-hee invited me to have lunch with her. Her food was, quite simply, stunning. Old school, but with such a light touch and distinctive, unmuted flavors. The meal ended with Sook- hee singing traditional Korean music unaccompanied and with great confidence and emotion. It literally left me in tears. The experience was soulful and connected, fully realized. I thought immediately that this is where I would bring my husband, Jean Georges, when he arrived to Korea with our daughter Chloe. I took them, practically straight from the airport, to Doorae. Jean Georges was equally blown away, so appreciative of Sook-hee’s talent and grace. He instantly recognized her as an Making gochujang (Korean chili paste) ⓒMarja Vongerichten extraordinary embodiment of Korean cuisine and culture.

Jean Georges was also very engaged by his trip with the in Jejudo Island. He was stripped down and dressed in a wetsuit, a face mask to seal the deal. He dove with the women, admiring their ability, skill and Marja Vongerichten lively sense of humor. I couldn’t help but be a little jealous when hearing Born 1976 in Korea. Born from a Korean woman and an American soldier, she was adopted by a family in Virginia when she was 3 years old. While working as a model and actress in New York, she met her about how they all ate sea urchin straight from the ocean. Being able to biological mother, and since then visited Korea a number of times to learn about her roots. She is also consume ingredients at their source is a bit of an ultimate for chefs, the known as the wife of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, French chef who owns more than 20 restaurants around the world including the 3-star Michelin-rated New York restaurant. The couple visited Korea in 2010 closest connection you can have with food. for about a month for the production of their documentary, “Kimchi Chronicles.” 196

197 We shared a similar experience when we visited the Amore Pacific green Look Inside! tea gardens, also in Jejudo Island, and were able to witness the entire process from the soil to the teacup. We learned how each type of tea is grown, harvested, roasted and packaged and how the ingredients are used to their full potential in the brand’s cosmetics that I continually swear by. Varieties of Kimchi and its History Seeing the care invested in each step was extraordinary; for example, the expert tea pickers do not ever wash their hands with harsh soap in order Kimchi is always present on a Korean meal. It was originally made to preserve vegetables for longer periods of time. From field vegetables, to wild mountain greens and edible plants, anything can an ingredient for kimchi. to ensure the delicacy and subtleties of each leaf. Whole cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi, young radish kimchi, etc. kimchi comes in a great variety of flavors and ingredients. Perhaps the most meaningful morning I spent during this trip was on the beach in Sokcho-si cooking and eating with my Korean family. History of Kimchi Joined by my grandmother, two aunts and cousins, we prepared and ate Kimchi is fermented food. The history of stuffed cucumber kimchi in summer; cubed soup made with local crabs, grilled squid and pork belly and vegetables, kimchi goes back to ancient times. Until the radish kimchi, soy sauce kimchi and leaf and, of course, kimchi (some of the best we had and I’m not just saying 18th century, when Korean chili powder was kimchi are autumn kimchi; and in early winter, that because my aunt made it). The meal, however, went way beyond introduced in Korea, kimchi was made by most families in Korea make gimjang, making the food. It was about being with family, about being in the place where pickling cucumber, garlic, chives and other kimchi to last the whole winter. vegetables in salt water. Although chili was you come from and feeling welcome and part of something bigger than brought into Korea in the late 16th century, it Gimjang yourself. Families not only define cultures, they transcend them—we are took over 150 years for it to be used in kimchi. Gimjang is an annual event to prepare for all connected to our homes and origins, wherever they are and however It became popular through the 1988 Seoul winter. Since vegetables don’t grow in the we define them. Olympic Games, and in 2001 it was officially cold winter, enough kimchi to last through the declared an “International Food” by Codex winter is made in around November. During This trip was intensely meaningful for me. It effectively opened my eyes Alimentarius Commission. gimjang season, the entire family helps salt and rinse tens, sometimes hundreds heads to the traditions, ideas and customs that define Korean cuisine and life. I Varieties of Kimchi of cabbage. The cabbage is soaked in salted ate old dishes and better understood their origins. I ate new dishes that There are over 200 different types of kimchi in water, then rinsed, and then seasoned with redefined the potential of Korean cuisine. I was with my family and I Korea. The taste of kimchi differs by region. The chili powder and other ingredients. met new people and I spoke with them and listened to their stories. I colder northern regions prefer baek-kimchi, felt increasingly aware, informed and touched by a culture that I am so which uses less chili powder, the warmer privileged and delighted to call my own. (Published June 24th, 2011) southern regions prefer spicier and saltier kimchi. The varieties of kimchi also differ by season: bomdong kimchi, cubed cucumber kimchi and water kimchi in spring; lettuce kimchi, chive kimchi, radish kimchi, and

Altari radish kimchi, green onion kimchi, nabak kimchi (from left) ⓒKTO 198 | Tour of Traditional Markets | 199 It was October 1st in 2008 when I opened a restaurant with my name on the 35th floor in the new annex of Lotte Hotel Seoul located at Sogong- dong and has been three years since I settled down in Korea. Although it was a short period, the first landing of Michelin three-star restaurant to Korea drew much attention from many people. Meanwhile I had difficulty at the beginning because of prejudice that ‘ is a There’s nothing that Moran Market high class and expensive dish’. As I came to be more knowledgeable about Korean food ingredients and understand Korean food culture better, I doesn’t have, kept increasing Korean food ingredients and introducing new courses. As a and here I felt the warmth of Korea result of diverse trials, I have successfully settled down in Korea.

From 2006 when I visited Korea for the first time, I have annually conducted Market research two or three times about big conventional Markets such as Garak-dong Agricultural & Marine Products Market, Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market, Gyeongdong Yangnyeong Market, Gwangjang Market in Seoul and Moran Market in Gyeonggi-do. Garak-dong and Noryangjin Markets did not appeal to me much because these well-known food ingredients markets representing Seoul were similar to large markets in France, but ‘Seongnam Moran Market’ which is an hour away from Seoul was different. Everything and anything was sold in a widely spread out open Seongnam Moran Market.

At the market entrance, street vendors selling flowers, plant pots, grains and herbs were mingling together. It was very rare to see such things in evenly arranged large markets like Noryangjin and Garak-dong Markets in downtown Seoul. I was able to peep into healthy cooking styles of Looking through Korean ingredients at a traditional market ⓒPierre Gagnaire Koreans who enjoy various grains with rice, taking a look at a variety of grains such as adlay, mung beans, Indian millets, peas, black soybeans. Also, I could see herb vendors explaining loudly the effect of the herbs such as Cordyceps militaris, cinnamon, schizandra berries, etc. Many people including myself gathered surrounding those shouting vendors and their Pierre Gagnaire diverse herbs whose smell made me feel healthy. I learned ‘health’ is in Born 1950 in France, Pierre Gagnaire became a chef at the young age of 18. In 1998 Pierre Gagnaire Paris became a 3-star Michelin-rated restaurant, and has since maintained its 3-star rating. He has opened the center of the Korean food culture. restaurants in London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai, Las Vegas, Moscow and Seoul. In a survey The French daily magazine “Le Figaro” conducted a survey rating 3-star rated Michelin chefs, and Gagnaire was voted as the best chef. 2008 Pierre Gagnaire Seoul opened on the 35th floor of Lotte Hotel Seoul. Deep in the market there were many covered wagons selling fish, meat and noodles with drinks. Even during daytime I could see Korean 200

201 middle-aged men and women in small groups of threes to fives drinking the food added beauty and form while preserving its original taste. It makgeolli and soju with boiled meat, Korean-style black pudding and upgraded the food by contemporary interpretation of colors, shapes and pan-fried food. Inside the market, we (me and my fellow chefs working placement as well as taste and health. Interior design of the restaurant was in Seoul Pierre Gagnaire) were the only foreigners with different hair distinct too. Conventional restaurants I have visited always maintained colors and could get a piece of food tasters whenever we were passing by a traditional Korean-style house but ‘Poom’ was divided into a hall those wagons. I cannot forget those kind vendors explaining with gesture and individual rooms with a whole window looking down Namsan to me when I enquired about taste and ingredients of food: A thick and Mountain with a clear view. I was impressed with the neat, modern and crispy mung bean pancake, a perilla leaf pancake filled with seasoned open style of its kitchen. Chefs’ cooking could be viewed through the pork meat and vegetables, a sweet and cold iced (makgeolli), a open kitchen, and I still remember those young chefs’ passionate and sweet rice drink (sikhye), Korean pancake (hotteok). pleasant attitude toward cooking.

Another unforgettable thing to remember was to witness selling edible Later I was able to see another aspect of Korean food through dogs. In France I had read an article about Koreans who enjoy dog meat demonstration of royal court food at Gyeonghuigung Palace the because it is good for stamina but it was shocking to see live dogs being following year. In France, there is no Cuisine Royale. Korean Cuisine sold and cooked in reality. Whatever life forms are, killing life is irritating and disgusting. I have never tasted the dog meat but I think there is no difference from Koreans eating ‘edible dogs’ to French enjoying horse meat, English eating frogs and Chinese eating monkey brains.

In Seongnam Moran Market everything was there - all different kinds of grains, herbs, flowers, flower pots, seeds, seafoods, vegetables, diverse street food, liquor, antiques, pets, edible dogs…… Looking around here and there, I could learn diversity of Korean food ingredients and feel comfortably warm and deeply affectionate culture unique to Koreans, walking in the market, having pigskin, fried small intestine, Korean popcorn, fermented skates, mung bean pancake, rice wine, etc.

As I said earlier, Korean food is excellent in terms of its nutritional values and tastes but I have never felt its style and expression are elegant and delicate. It is just healthy and warm-heatrted comfortable food. Compared to a person, it is the food like ‘Ajeossi-avuncular (in Korean expression)’ who offers extra food than the price in the Korean street markets?

However, the Korean food that I tasted in a Korean restaurant called ‘Poom’ was good enough to break the stereotypical image of the Korean food I had before. I felt like eating a French course meal because Restaurant kitchen ⓒPierre Gagnaire 202

203 Royale broke stereotypes I had about Korean food, which I considered Look Inside! being clumsy and lacking delicacy, with its flower-shaped dried persimmons served as a dessert as well as each course. I think Korean food can be more competitive than Japanese sushi or Italian pizza known throughout the world if conventional dishes representing beauty can be Korea’s 5-day market, reformed in a modern style. a cheerful market open every 5 days

Especially, kimchi seems to be a simple food but it is a very refined Although large discount stores have decreased the number of traditional 5-day markets, there are still many 5-day and fermented well-being food which is in harmony with all different markets open. Although many traditional 5-day markets have closed down due to incoming discount stores and department stores, traditional markets can still be found in the regional areas. These 5-day markets open every 5 factors. Its taste, scent and flavor are different depending on maturity. I days, and there are still 657 left in Korea. People who have been to these markets know the feeling of having to am confident that it is one of the most competitive Korean foods in the wait another 5 days for it to re-open. Loud and full of energy, there’s nothing these markets don’t have. world market. For example, Pierre Gagnaire style of cabbage kimchi, which is salted cabbages fermented with lemon skins, red pepper powder Moran 5-day Market Jeongseon 5-day Market Bukpyeong 5-day Market and balsamic vinegar, is sliced and served with Foie gras. I introduced This is largest 5-day market in It is a representative folk 5- The Bukpyeong 5-day Market this dish in the restaurants in France and Japan as well as in Korea and I Korea. An average of 100,000 day market. Opened in 1966, is famous for seafood caught in had a very good and positive feedback from customers. I think that food people visits the market when it’s Jeongseon Market sells fresh the East Sea, and fresh mountain ingredients, which are produced only in Korea or well known as the best open. The number of merchants mountain greens from the greens from the foot of the when they are produced in Korea, can be the most powerful weapon alone exceeds 1,500. First opened mountains and valleys of the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range. in 1962, Moran Market has lots Gangwon-do. This market has The fish stores inside the market promoting Korean food – not only kimchi but also doenjang, makgeolli, to see. From traditional dance many convenient facilities for are especially popular. Cod, soju, perilla leaves, schizandra berries, ginseng and . Isn’t it the and singing performances to folk tourists, it also has cultural pollack, croaker, squid, flatfish, globalization of Korean food if various Korean food ingredients and games, and of course shopping, commentators ready to help, and ray and other fish are hung from conventional fermented sauces can be reborn as a new dish, harmonized Moran has it all. Medicinal herbs in the center of the market, the the ceiling Bukpyeong market with a French recipe and the new dish can attract foreigners? from around the country, fresh Jeongseon performance is geared for locals rather than (Published September 16th, 2011) fruits, and much, much more lure and various food experiences tourists, which is why there aren’t shoppers and tourists. It is open keep tourists and visitors any performances ir shows. But on the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th, entertained. Foods you must you won’t be able to forget the and 29th day of the month. try here are seasoned gondeure warmth and affection of the Address 4190 Seongnam-dong, Jungwon- bab rice, kotdeungchigi guksu Korean people. It opens on the gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do noodles, olchaengi guksu noodles, 3rd, 8th, 13th, 18th, 23rd and 28th buckwheat pancakes, and other of the month. traditional foods of the province. Address 486-2 Bukpyeong-si, Donghae- It opens on the 2nd, 7th, 12th, si, Gangwon-do 17th, 22nd and 27th day of the month. Address 344-1 Bongyang-ri, Jeongseon- eup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do 204 | Food Culture of Andong-si | 205

Spicy jjimdak for Lunch, Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner.

Fine dining from morning till night

Not so long ago, I became a member of the board of directors of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch, a community where Korean natives and foreigners living in Korea come together to study and inform others on Korea’s appeal. About 1,000 members attend weekly lectures or go on field trips every other week to get to know Korea better. The lectures and excursions mainly focus on Korea’s history, philosophy, culture or art; out of all of these topics, I concentrate on the diffusion of Korean culture through traditional Korean foods. I hold lectures under the theme “Korea’s food” and let others know about the many appeals of Korea by leading excursions on Korean food. I strongly believe that treating foreigners or outsiders with local ethnic food allows the outsiders to encounter that country’s history, economy, and ethnic identity. This in turn leads them to experience the country’s culture in entirely. This is the reason why I decided to treat the RASKB members to Andong-si’s local unique food instead of introducing them Heotjesabap (Andong style bibimbap) ⓒKTO to the architectural aspects of the city, or other intangible cultural assets, such as Andong Hahoe Village or Maskdance Performance. On October 1-2nd, the Royal Asiatic Society, Korea Branch (RASKB) led an excursion to Andong-si in Gyeongsangbuk-do. The point of Jennifer Flinn the excursion was not only to experience the renowned Andong Born 1980 in the U.S. She became interested in Korea while working as an English teacher in Andong-si, International Maskdance Festival, but also to gain greater insight into the Gyeongsangbuk-do in 1999. She returned to Korea after studying Korean Literature at UCLA, and started her area’s unique architectural, cultural, and culinary background. own blog about Korean cuisine named Fatman Seoul (fatmanseoul.com). She is a member of the board of directors at the Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch, while going on field trips around the country with over The excursion was led by Jennifer Flinn, who appeared in the 1000 bloggers. As of 2012, she is an assistant teacher at the Kyung Hee University for Teaching and Learning. American TV series the Kimchi Chronicles and runs a food blog, with 206

207 by Andong-si’s Confucian elites, showing the syncretic tendencies of Korean religious practice. They also spent time exploring Imcheonggak Shrine, an exemplary Joseon Dynasty residential building, and a rare 7 storey Silla Dynasty brick pagoda. Afterwards they traveled by bus to the At a Andong Jjimdak restaurant with members of the Byeongsanseowon Confucian Academy to appreciate the beautiful natural Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch ⓒJennifer Flinn setting, architecture, and its connections to local Confucian culture. Dinner was an opportunity to introduce a few more local culinary specialties, including salted mackerel and heotjesabap. Heotjesabap was first served, according to legend, when a young man arrived home too late assistance from Pablo Barrera, a Fulbright scholar and researcher on for the family’s ancestral rites, but asked to be served the same meal as the connections between architecture and art and culture. They were required for those rites. In response, the family cooked up a meal of rice, accompanied by Brother Anthony, the well-known translator and vegetables and meat for a bibimbap flavored with soy sauce and sesame oil, president of the RASKB, German Ambassador to Korea Hans-Ulrich but not the conventional pepper paste, and accompanied by fried foods. Seidt and his wife. The other attendees included long-term residents of Korea and visitors spending only a few days in the country. The excursion group arrived in Andong-si and headed directly to Andong Market’s famed “Chicken Alley” to try the city’s jjimdak. The dish consists of chicken, dangmyeon, potatoes, onions and other vegetables cooked in a unique soy-based sauce. Unlike many Korean dishes that rely heavily on powdered peppers or pepper paste in order to add flavor and spice, Andong jjimdak uses fresh or dried peppers, which give the rich-tasting sauce an extra kick. Although the exact origins of the dish are a bit of a mystery, with some attributing its development to local , the first restaurants only appeared in the area about 30 years ago. Local restaurateurs adopted the dish into a way to successfully compete with the rise of fried chicken franchises, and are mostly clustered along a single street inside the market. A few years ago, Andong jjimdak became a bit of a trend, resulting in several franchises opening up around the country. None, however, can really match the depth of the sweet and spicy originals. The group dined in a converted hanok, and washed down the meal with a few bottles of local Makgeolli. Following lunch, the group toured a number of historic and cultural sites in downtown Andong-si, led by Mr. Barrera. They first visited the Taesamyo Shrine, a Goryeo Dynasty shrine that includes a juxtaposition of Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty architecture, followed by a quick walk View of Hahoe Village ⓒSon Min-ho to see a shaman tree shrine that was also the object of rites conducted 208

209 Whether the story is true or not, heotjesabap remains one of Andong- Look Inside! si’s most distinctive and popular local specialties. Salted mackerel is a similarly uniquely Andong-si dish, and results from the city’s geographic location at the highest navigable point by boat on the Nakdonggang River. Mackerel is an oily fish that spoils quickly, and before the advent Folk Villages of Korea of modern refrigeration, salting was one of the best ways to preserve the fish. Salt fish are found in cultures all over the world, and are particularly There are many folk villages in Korea that preserve its traditions. There are 7 folk villages in the country. Like the UNESCO designated villages of Hahoe and Yangdong, most folk villages were single clan villages of noblemen, popular in parts of northern Europe. However, European-style salt but Folk Village, was a village of commoners. fish are usually soaked in milk or water to remove the saltiness before cooking and eating, but in Andong-si, the distinctive salt tang became Hahoe Village Naganeupseong Folk Village its most cherished characteristic. While it can also be used in soups and An exemplary folk village of Korea, Queen Elizabeth This is a fortress village that best preserves the folk stews, the RASKB group enjoyed theirs grilled, which highlights the II, who had visited the village years back, said it was atmosphere as well as the 1,410-m-long fortress flavor of the salt and the fish’s natural oils. Some members also used the most traditional side of Korea she had seen. As wall. Established in 1397, this was a village where the the dinner hour to purchase one of Andong-si’s more potent potables, the lineage village of the Pungsan Ryu family, it still common people, middle-class, lower-class, farmers, a traditional distilled soju with a strong alcoholic punch and distinctive preserves its traditions and customs, which is why it blacksmiths, etc. lived, which is why there isn’t a sour flavor. was registered on UNESCO’s World Heritage list last single tile-roof house. All the straw-roof houses of year. Over 800,000 tourists visit the village annually, the Naganeupseong harmonize without a single The highlight of the evening was a chance to see the Seonyujulbulnori, a and people can also experience the life of the upper- one standing out. The stone-piled fortress wall, the tremendously beautiful and fascinating “fireworks” display that originated class society. deodeok root liquor, and the gayageum (12-stringed in Andong Hahoe Village. After enjoying the traditional fireworks, the Address Hahoe-ri, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsang Korean zither) orchestra are proof that the old group retired for the evening in a restored hanok. buk-do Web hahoe.or.kr village was famous for stones, songs, and liquor. On After breakfast at a local minbak the next morning, Mr. Barrera led weekends, a Korean classical music class is held in Yangdong Village the straw-roof houses, and various other experience the group through the village, pointing out important architectural As a noblemen’s village located in the northern area of programs are also offered. elements and connecting them with cultural elements, explaining how Gyeongju, this is the lineage village of the Wolseong Address Namnae-ri, Nagan-myeon, -si, Jeollanam- philosophical, religious, and personal beliefs manifested themselves Son family and the Yeogang Lee family. About 150 do Web nagan.or.kr physically in the buildings of the village. The group then proceeded to houses remain to this day, and 54 houses are over the main festival ground in downtown Andong-si, where they were able 200 years old. Yangdong is the largest folk village in Korea, and it was also registered on UNESCO’s World to visit a display of local foods, several mask dances, and a shaman gut Heritage list. The houses in this village were arranged before returning to Seoul. along the ridges of a mountain, creating stair-like Since the RASKB members are used to typical Korean foods in Seoul, view. From far away the village doesn’t look so big, they were able to learn that there is much more to Korean food, other but as you get closer, you get to see how large it is. If than being salty or spicy. There are many more places in Korea other than you want to experience life in the village, rooms are Andong-si that include local cultural and historical characteristics in their available. Address Yangdong-ri, Gangdong-myeon, Gyeongju-si, local foods. In order to help more foreigners and outsiders to experience Gyeongsangbuk-do Web yangdong.invil.org Korean foods and learn more about the appeals of Korea, the Royal Asiatic Society of Korea will continue with its efforts to spread the Korean culture through experiences with Korean food. (Published December 23th, 2011) 16 Regional Areas of Korea

Must-see Routes mustseeroutes.or.kr

In memory of the “Visit Korea Year,” we have the following “Must-see Routes.” These routes include each region’s most traditional and unique charm. Categorized into 16 different regions and 10 themes, these exceptional “Must-see Routes” offer the best a new and different side of Korea.

Seoul

Incheon Gangwon-do

Gyeonggi-do

Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do Gyeongsangbuk-do Daejeon

Daegu Jeollabuk-do Gyeongsangnam-do Gwangju Busan Jeollanam-do

Jeju Special Self-Governing Province (Jejudo Island)

Buyeo, Gungnamji Pond ⓒShin Byeong-mun 212 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 01. Seoul | visitseoul.net | 213

According CNNgo.com, in Seoul “sleeping is for losers.” Routes 1 Seoul 10 Minutes 15 Minutes 18 Minutes 20 Minutes Which means there is so much to do and see in Seoul Bukchon Gahoe Dongdaemun Leeum, Samsung Hangang at night. During the time, Seoul is fast and furious Hanok Village Museum Shopping Museum of Art Riverboat The Beating commercial area, but at night, the 24-hour opening cafes, District Hear shopping malls, theaters, singing rooms, saunas clubs, of Korea etc. make your stay in Seoul unforgettable. From dusk till Routes 2 10 Minutes 10 Minutes 5 Minutes dawn, Seoul is up and lively! It is the hottest city on earth. Seolleung Apgujeong-dong Dosan Park Sinsa-dong Rodeo Street, Garosu-gil Cheongdam-dong Road Luxury Street

Bukchon Hanok Village Seolleung 600-year-old hanok (traditional Designated as a UNESCO World house) village where aristocrats of Heritage, it is the royal tomb of the Joseon Dynasty used to live. Joseon Dynasty’s 9th king, King Seongjong. Gahoe Museum Visitors can experience folk and Apgujeong-dong Rodeo Street & traditional cultures of Korea such Cheongdam-dong Luxury Street ⓒ Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road KTO as folk paintings and talismans. Area clustered with designer brands and high-end shops. Dongdaemun Shopping District Open 24 hours, this shopping Dosan Park district has a wide selection Name brand shops and hair & of clothing, footwears, bags, beauty shops line the streets accessories and more. around the park.

Gahoe Museum ⓒKTO Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road Museum designed by world- Boutigues of up-and-coming famous architects Mario Botta, designers, restaurants and cafe Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. line Garosu-gil Road.

Hangang Riverboat Hangang River flows across the middle of downtown Seoul.

Banpodaegyo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain ⓒKTO Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art ⓒvisitseoul.net 214 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 02. Busan | tour.busan.go.kr | 215

Haeundae and Gwangalli. Just by hearing these two Routes 1 Busan 15 Minutes 15 Minutes 15 Minutes words, people will automatically think of a romantic Dalmaji-gil Busan Haeundae Busan beachside evening. People enjoying a stroll on the beach, Aquarium Beach Centum City A Port people jogging, couples on dates, or friends out partying, City Full the beaches of Busan are always filled with people of Life creating special memories. The downtown area is also Routes 2 15 Minutes 10 Minutes 25 Minutes always energetic and lively. Although loud and hectic, and Energy Gamcheon-dong Gukje Market Jagalchi Taejongdae at the traditional markets, you can hear and feel the Culture Village Market (Cruise Tour) affection of the people of Busan.

Dalmaji-gil Jagalchi Market Hill lined with galleries and art Open from dusk till dawn, it is the shop, and nice restaurants. largest fisheries market in Korea.

Busan Aquarium Taejongdae Ocean-themed aquarium with a 250-m-long coastal landform total area of 30,000,000 m2. consisting of cliffs and unique rock formations. Gamcheon-dong Culture Village ⓒKTO Haeundae Beach Beautiful beach, yacht marina, luxury hotels, shopping mall, etc.

Busan Centum City Largest mall in the world with a spa, skating rink, movie theaters, and more. Busan Centum City ⓒBusan Centum City Gamcheon-dong Culture Village Famous for murals drawn by your artists.

Gukje Market Busan’s largest traditional market, is a must-visit amongst the Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO ⓒ Jagalchi Market KTO “fashion people”. 216 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 03. Daegu | tour.daegu.go.kr | 217

Route 20 Minutes 5 Minutes 15 Minutes

Herb Hills Yangnyeongsi Jin Alley(Modern Anjirang Daegu Oriental Medicine Architecture Market Culture Center Street) Fashion & Hair,

City of Herb Hills Jin Alley (Modern Architecture Herb theme park offering various Street) Healthy Living herb related attractions and Street portraying Korea’s modern programs. architecture.

Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Anjirang Market Culture Center Cluster of spicy, Daegu-style beef Oldest Oriental herbs market in tripe restaurants. Korea guaranteeing the best herbs in the country.

Daegu is a transportation hub that connects Seoul to southern regions of Korea. It is said that there are many pretty people in Daegu, and it is famous for apples, oriental medicine and well-being tours. This Confucian city is usually very calm and quiet, but through the IAAF World Championships Jin Alley ⓒKTO Daegu 2011, it let the whole world know what Daegu was all about. Daegu is a good stop- over location when traveling from Seoul to the southern regions, and unlike other regional areas, Daegu is very hip and fashionable.

Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center ⓒKTO Herb Hills ⓒHerb Hills 218 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 04. Incheon | itour.visitincheon.org | 219

Every city has a history and culture of its own, but Routes 1 Incheon 5 Minutes 5 Minutes 40 Minutes 35 Minutes Incheon’s long and proud history has many roots. Chinatown Art Platform Songdo Wolmido Home of the Incheon International Airport, Incheon Modern Central Park Riverboat City with is where ancient dolmens of the Bronze era and the Architecture Street 3 Histories Chamseongdan Altar built in BC 2333 in Manisan and Cultures Mountain can still be seen. This is also where western Routes 2 10 Minutes 15 Minutes 50 Minutes cultures were first accepted in the 19th century. Incheon Goryeo Ganghwa Ganghwa Dolmen Site Manisan embraces history and traditional while also striving for Palace Site Anglican Church (UNESCO World Mountain Heritage) the future.

Gwandong Modern Architec Goryeo Palace Site ture Street After Mongolia invaded Korea in Centered on the first western- 1232, Goryeo moved its capital style park in Korea, this street is a and palace here. collage of modern architecture. Ganghwa Anglican Church Chinatown This basilica was built in the With the opening of Incheonhang 1900s using traditional Korean Chinatown ⓒKTO Port in 1883, Chinese people came architecture. to Korea and formed this town. Ganghwa Dolmen Site Art Platform Dolmens of the Bronze era Red brick warehouse was turned (UNESCO World Heritage). into a creative studio for arts and culture. Manisan Mountain Home of Chamseongdan Altar, Gwandong Modern Architecture Street Songdo Central Park ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City where Dangun, the progenitor Beautiful park in Songdo, the and founder of a nation, held international business district ritual services to the heavens. recently built in Incheon.

Wolmido Riverboat Starting at Wolmido, this ferry stops at Incheon Int’l Airport,

Incheondaegyo Bridge ⓒIncheon Bridge Co., Ltd. Art Platform ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City Yeongjongdaegyo Bridge and other landmarks of Incheon. 220 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 05. Gwangju | utour.gwangju.go.kr | 221

Route Gwangju 30 Minutes 40 Minutes

Juknokwon Soswaewon Uijae Museum Garden Garden of City of Art (Damyang-gun) (Damyang-gun) and Revolution

Juknokwon Garden Soswaewon Garden Uijae Museum of Korean Art 160,000 m2 bamboo garden. A Private garden built in the 1520s; Museum located at the entrance 2.2-km hiking trail winds through it demonstrates the features of a of Mountain. 300-year-old bamboo trees. traditional . Commemorates and exhibits over 60 works of painter Heo Baek- ryeon (1891–1977; penname Uijae).

Gwangju is a city of art and literature. You can see a great collection of world- famous modern art at the Gwangju Biennale, held here every fall. A number of large and small exhibits are held throughout the city and the green forests of Mudeungsan Mountain decorate the center of the city. Gwangju is also the city or revolution and freedom. The April May 18 Mangwol-dong Cemetery ⓒKTO 19th Democratic Revolution, and the May 18th Democratic Movement are very important historic events that took place in Gwangju. Recently, UNESCO added the “Documents on the pro-democracy uprising in Gwangju on May 18, 1980” on its Memory of the World list.

Uijae Museum of Korean Art ⓒUijae Art Museum Juknokwon Garden ⓒKTO 222 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 06. Daejeon | daejeontour.or.kr | 223

Route 10 Minutes 15 Minutes 45 Minutes

Expo Currency Yuseong Gyejoksan Daejeon Science Park Museum of Korea Hot Springs Mountain, Red Clay Trail City of Education, and Hot Springs Expo Science Park Yuseong Hot Springs Science theme park equipped Famous for being a favored with state-of-art technology to resting area for kings of the bring people closer to science. Joseon Dynasty, and its prime location. Currency Museum of Korea Displays and exhibits currency of Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Korea and other countries as well. Trail 200 to 300 above sea level, this 13-km-long walking trail is best when walked barefoot.

Home of KAIST (Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology), where Korea’s smartest students are, Daejeon is also a popular hot springs area. It is recorded that Joseon Dynasty’s first king, King Taejo spent a night at a hot spring in Daejeon. The hot springs area Currency Museum of Korea ⓒKTO in Yuseong is not very large, but has the longest history, and it located in the middle of the city. And, as the city of education, Daejeon has many science and technology related museums, exhibition halls and parks.

Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Trail ⓒDaedeok-gu District Office Expo Science Park ⓒKTO 224 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 07. Ulsan | guide.ulsan.go.kr | 225

Route 15 Minutes 30 Minutes 1 Hour 40 Minutes

Bangudae Cheonjeon-ri Amethyst Jangsaengpo Daewangam Ulsan Petroglyph Rock Petroglyphs Cavern Park Whale Museum Park

Industrial City Where Whales Bangudae Petroglyph Rock Amethyst Cavern Park Daewangam Park Cave painting on a 10 m wide and Man-made cave tourist area built Park centered on Daewangam Used to Live 3 m high rock surface. in an amethyst cave from over Rock Tomb, which is believed 6,500 years ago. to be where the queen of King Cheonjeon-ri Petroglyphs Munmu is buried. Rock art proving life in the Jangsaengpo Whale Museum Prehistoric Era and up to the Silla Displays everything there is know Dynasty. about whales and Korea’s whale fishing history.

Ulsan houses Korea’s largest industrial complex. Rock carvings depicting the life and cultures of the Prehistoric and the Bronze eras can be found in this industrial city. Additionally, Korea’s largest whale fishing port, Jangsaengpo, and a 6,500-year- old amethyst cave offer many Shipyard (Hyundai Heavy Industries) ⓒKTO interesting sites. But above all, Ulsan is the home of the world’s No. 1 ship-building yard.

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum ⓒKTO Daewangam Park ⓒKTO 226 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 08. Gyeonggi-do | ggtour.or.kr | 227

Encircling the entire city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do Routes 1 Gyeonggi-do 10 Minutes 25 Minutes 30 Minutes is where citizens of Seoul go to the most for a Shinsegae Heyri Imjingak The Botanical weekend getaway. Not only is it close to Seoul, Simon Premium Art Valley Pyeonghoa-Nuri Garden of BCJ Closest Weekend Outing but whichever way you go; north, south, east or Outlets Destination west, there is always something fun and exciting from Seoul to do. There are various cultural experience sites, Routes 2 35 Minutes 40 Minutes 15 Minutes amusement parks, UNESCO heritage sites, the DMZ, Donggurong Moran Museum Semiwon Sujongsa shopping outlets, resorts and much more. People Royal Tomb of Art Garden Temple (UNESCO World can escape the hectic city life and enjoy the fresh Heritage Site) outdoors.

Shinsegae Simon Premium Moran Museum of Art Outlets Sculpture art museum amid Over 250,000 shoppers visited beautiful natural surroundings. within 4 days of opening. Semiwon Garden Heyri Art Valley Self-purifying garden with over Over 380 artists, including 100 kinds of water lilies and a painters, musicians, writers, etc., large lotus garden. gather and created this artists’ village. Sujongsa Temple Temple from the Joseon Dynasty Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri located amid the 606-m-tall Built across from Imjingak Ungilsan Mountain. Pavilion, which is a painful symbol of division.

The Botanical Garden of BCJ Donggurong Royal Tomb ⓒKTO More than 1,400 species of plants and natural stones beautifully decorate the 120,000 m2 garden.

Donggurong Royal Tombs Tomb complex consisting of 9 tombs of Joseon Dynasty royalty,

Shinsegae Simon Premium Outlets ⓒShinsegae Simon Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri ⓒKTO including that of King Taejo (UNESCO World Heritage). 228 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 09. Gangwon-do | gangwon.to | 229

If you see a beautiful and romantic outdoor scene in Routes 1 Gangwon-do 2 Hours 30 Minutes 55 Minutes 35 Minutes a Korean movie or drama, it was most likely filmed Jade Garden Woljeongsa Daegwallyeong Alpensia somewhere in Gangwon-do. From hills covered with Temple Samyang Ranch Resort A Gift beautiful spring flowers to sparkling summer seas, vibrant from Mother golds and reds of autumn, and white colored winters, Nature Gangwon-do has it all. 82% of the entire province is a Routes 2 30 Minutes 1 Hour 5 Minutes 55 Minutes mountainous region, and Pyeongchang-gun, has been Sea Train Haslla Mureung Hwanseongul selected to host the 2018 . Art World Valley Cave

Jade Garden Haslla Art World Arboretum designed with the Art park offering various exhibitions concept of “Little Europe in the and performances throughout the Forest”. year.

Woljeongsa Temple Mureung Valley Houses the Seongbo Museum Beautiful valley said to be the of Buddhist Art, and a fir tree resting area of Taoist hermits. Jade Garden ⓒKTO walking trail. Hwanseongul Cave Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch Largest limestone cave with Largest ranch in the Orient with unique rock formations and rare healthy grasslands and herds of cave organism. cows.

Alpensia Resort Ski resort scheduled to be the Alpensia Resort ⓒKTO main stadium for the .

Sea Train From Gangneung-si, to Donghae- si then Samcheok-si, this sea tea runs 58 km along the East Sea.

Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch ⓒKTO Sea Train ⓒKTO 230 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 10. Chungcheongbuk-do | chungbuknadri.net | 231

Routes 1 Chungcheongbuk-do 35 Minutes 55 Minutes 35 Minutes

Jecheon Gosu Cave Jeongbangsa Chungjuho Medicinal Temple Lake A Lakeside City Herb Market Surrounded by Mountains Routes 2 10 Minutes 30 Minutes 1 Hour 25 Minutes

Sangdang Cheongnamdae Winery -sanseong National Presidential Villa Tour Fortress Museum

Situated in the center of the Medicinal Herb Market Cheongju National Museum One of the country’s top 3 medicinal Designed by Kim Swoo-geun, one peninsula, Chungcheongbuk- herb market, it circulates fresh and of Korea’s most praised architects. do is surrounded by lakes and healthy herbs gathered from the Taebaek Mountain Range. Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa mountains. Chungjuho Lake is Built in 1983, it was the vacation often dubbed the ocean of the Gosu Cave villa for numerous presidents of Stunning limestone cave formed Korea. mainland, and the ferry tour Sangdangsanseong Fortress ⓒKTO since the early Paleozoic era. offers spectacular views of the Winery Tour Jeongbangsa Temple You can taste and sample lake. Popular tourist attractions Located 1,016 m above sea level, produced in over 40 vineyards in of this lakeside province include its main shrine is surrounded by a Korea. rock face. the millennial temple called Jeongbangsa, Baekje Dynasty’s Chungjuho Lake Sangdangsanseong Fortress, the Gosu Cave ⓒKTO Large lake flowing 52 km from Chungju-si to Danyang-gun. Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa, and Korea’s only winery. Sangdangsanseong Fortress Fortress wall running 4.2 km along the ridges of Sangdangsan Mountain(491 m).

Chungjuho Lake ⓒKTO Winery Tour ⓒKTO 232 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 11. Chungcheongnam-do | tour.chungnam.net | 233

Routes 1 Chungcheongnam-do 1 Hour 9 Minutes 50 Minutes 20 Minutes

Cheollipo Cheonsuman Mud Muchangpo Health Arboretum Bay Skincare Center Beach Presented by the Western Sea Routes 2 35 Minutes 40 Minutes 55 Minutes

Baekje Gongju National Magoksa Oeam Folk Cultural Land Museum Temple Village

Touching the Yellow Sea, Cheollipo Arboretum Beginning with beautiful Stores and exhibits over 16,000 Chungcheongnam-do was magnolias, plants and flowers cultural properties including always famous for its hot springs collected from over 60 countries 19 National Treasures and 3 around the world are housed here. Treasures. and wide areas of mud flats. A number of resorts are located Cheonsuman Bay Magoksa Temple Photographers from around the Temple of the Silla Kingdom, along the beach so people can ⓒ Magoksa Temple KTO world camp out here to see flocks it boasts exquisite temple rest and relax on beach and while of Baikal teals. architecture and elaborate ornaments. also enjoying the goodness of Boryeong Mud Skincare Center nature. The province is also home Experience the amazing benefits Oeam Folk Village of Boryeong mud. Village of Joseon Dynasty nobles to Cheollipo Arboretum, the only formed about 500 years ago. arboretum in Asia to be designate Muchangpo Beach 4 to 5 times a year, visitors can see an Arboretum Distinguished for Cheollipo Arboretum ⓒKTO the Moses’ Miracle. Merit; Cheonsuman Bay, praised Baekje Cultural Land by photographers from around Cultural complex in , Baekje the world; and Muchangpo Beach, Kingdom’s last capital city. where spectacular miracle of

Moses’ can be seen. Cheonsuman Bay ⓒKTO Boryeong Mud Festival ⓒKTO 234 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 12. Jeollabuk-do | gojb.net | 235

Jeollabuk-do Routes 1 5 Minutes 45 Minutes 10 Minutes

Maisan Jinan Red Jeonju Seosin-dong Mountain Ginseng Spa Hanok Village Makgeolli Taste Town and Style of Korea Routes 2 30 Minutes 50 Minutes 15 Minutes

Chaeseokgang Naesosa Gochang Gochang- Cliffs Temple Dolmen Site eupseong Fortress

Foods including Jeonju bibimbap Maisan Mountain Naesosa Temple (rice topped with vegetables and This mystical mountain is Temple from the Baekje Kindom composed of two peaks shaped famous for the 600-m-long fir tree meat) and Jeonju kongnamul like horse ears. trail on the entrance. (bean sprout soup with rice), Jinan Red Ginseng Spa Gochang Dolmen Site Pungcheon jangeo (eel), Namwon Korean medicine facility that UNESCO heritage site with Korea’s chueotang (loach soup), and Jeonju offers one-on-one consultations largest cluster of dolmens. Jeonju Hanok Village ⓒKTO and various therapeutic treatments makgeolli table, are enough to invite using red ginseng from Jinan-gun. Gochangeupseong Fortress and keep tourists in Jeollabuk-do. Korea’s best preserved fortress Jeonju Hanok Village constructed in 1453. The most representative city of Over 700 traditional homes the province is Jeonju-si, home of (hanok) are clustered in this traditional village. Jeonju bibimbap, and Jeonju Hanok Seosin-dong Makgeolli Town Village. Other popular attractions Naesosa Temple ⓒKTO Restaurants here only charge for in Jeonju-si are the mystical Maisan makgeolli, and serve a tableful of Mountain and Chaeseokgang Cliffs, delicious side dishes.

Naesosa Temple and its fir tree lined Chaeseokgang Cliffs trail, and the UNESCO designated Created from layers of 70 million- year-old sedimentary rocks Gochang Dolmen Site. stratified by the sea. Maisan Mountain ⓒKTO Chaeseokgang Cliffsⓒ KTO 236 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 13. Jeollanam-do | namdokorea.com | 237

Routes 1 2 Hours 10 Minutes 1 Hour 1 Hour + 30 Minutes Islands dot the southern sea like the stars Uhang-ri Jindo Jodo Islands Jeollanam-do in the sky. The Boseong green tea leafs Gatbawi Dinosaur Mysterious (Dorisan Cultural Town Museum Sea Route Observatory) carpet the fields like a velvet carpet. The Landscape of radiant sun setting over the 5,000-year- Routes 2 15 Minutes 1 Hour 20 Minutes 40 Minutes the Southern Sea old Suncheonman Bay. These are just a Boseong Yulpo Seawater Songgwangsa Naganeupseong few natural attractions that can be seen in Green Tea Green Tea Temple Folk Village Fields Bath Jeollanam-do. Travelers can see the different colors of nature through the change of Routes 3 1 Hour 5 Minutes 40 Minutes 1 Hour 10 Minutes seasons. Suncheonman Odongdo Hyangiram Yeosu Industrial Bay Island Hermitage Complex Nightscape

Mokpo Gatbawi Cultural Town Boseong Green Tea Fields Suncheonman Bay Cultural town that houses the Home of Korean green tea, 40% Mudflat for-med over a period of National Research Institute of of the country’s green tea is from 5,000 years, it was voted as one Maritime Cultural Heritage, the the lush fields in Boseong-gun. of the top 10 beautiful sunsets Mokpo Natural History Museum, amongst Korean photographers. the Mokpo Ceramic Living ware Yulpo Seawater Green Tea Bath Museum, etc. Natural seawater pumped from Odongdo Island 120 m bellow ground is made Connected to Yeosu-si by a Uhang-ri Dinosaur Museum into a green tea bath. seawall road to the east, it has the Only fossil site in the world where largest group of camellia trees. fossils of dinosaurs, pterosaurs, Songgwangsa Temple and footprints were discovered in Compo-sed of more than 80 Hyangiram Hermitage a single stratum layer. wooden buildings, it became No. 1 sunrise of the southern sea, a “precious” temple for having it offers a magnificent view of the Jindo Mysterious Sea Route produced many respectable monks. Dadohaehaesang National Park Famous as the site where Moses’ and lush camellia tree forest. miracle can be seen. Naganeupseong Folk Village Village planned during the Yeosu Industrial Complex Night- Jodo Islands (Dorisan Obser Joseon era, it still preserves its scape vatory) original appearance. Largest industrial complex in the 154 islands dot the ocean like Orient, it lights Yeosu-si 24-hours Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO stepping stones in a pond. a day. 238 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 14. Gyeongsangbuk-do | gbtour.net | 239

Routes 1 1 Hour 25 Minutes 35 Minutes 35 Minutes Gyeongsangbuk-do is where Andong-si, Yeongdeok Jukdo Market Oeosa Temple Yangdong Gyeongsangbuk-do praised by Queen Elizabeth II as the most Goesi-ri Folk Village Traditional Village traditional Korean village, and Gyeongju- The Most si, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom Routes 2 35 Minutes 35 Minutes 35 Minutes Korean Place where Buddhist flourished are located. Gyeongju Daereungwon Conmaul Gyeongju in Korea Nowhere else in Korea will you see and National Tomb Hospital Namsan Mountain Museum Complex of Oriental Moonlight Tour experience more tradition, culture and Medicine history of Korea. You can spend a night at a Routes 3 20 Minutes 20 Minutes 40 Minutes traditional residence and experience the lives Byeongsan Andong Buyongdae Sinse-dong of Korea’s ancestors. Hahoe Village Cliff Mural Village Confucian Academy

Yeongdeok Goesi-ri Traditional Gyeongju National Museum Byeongsanseowon Confucian Village You can see and learn about Academy Hometown of Confucian scholar millennial kingdom of Silla in a One of the 5 main Confucian from the Joseon Dynasty, Mogeun short time. academies of the Joseon Dynasty, Lee Saek. it is a great example of Korean Daereungwon Tomb Complex wooden architecture. Jukdo Market 23 royal tombs of Silla’s kings, queens Largest market on the east coast, and the royal family are scattered Andong Hahoe Village a group of street venders formed throughout downtown Gyeongju-si. Praised by Queen Elizabeth II, this market in the 1950s. as the most traditional area in Conmaul Hospital of Oriental Korea. Designated as a UNESCO Oeosa Temple Medicine World Heritage. Surrounded by a lake and unique Eco-friendly architecture and design, rock formations, the 4 great the hospital offers a great variety of Buyongdae Cliff Buddhist monks of the Silla Oriental medicine programs. Located to the north of Hahoe Kingdom were from this temple. Village, the entire Hahoe Village Gyeongju Namsan Mountain can be seen atop Buyongdae. Moonlight Tour Houses of the village still preserve Views and scenes not viewable Sinse-dong Mural Village traditional layouts of over 500 during the day, the mystical ancient As if an art museum had been years ago. Village was designated city of Gyeongju-si unveils under brought outdoors, murals decorate Andong Hahoe Village ⓒKTO a UNESCO World Heritage. the moonlight. the walls and buildings of this village. 240 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 15. Gyeongsangnam-do | gntour.com | 241

Routes 1 Gyeongsangnam-do 10 Minutes 1 Hour 40 Minutes 1 Hour 25 Minutes Haeinsa Temple Hongnyudong Jinjuseong German Valley Fortress Village Mountain and Maritime Routes 2 National Parks 15 Minutes 1 Hour 20 Minutes 30 Minutes Dongpirang Ropeway Haegeumgang Oedo Mural Village Overlooking Riverboat Botania Hallyeosudo

Gyeongsangnam-do is rich in Haeinsa Temple Ropeway Overlooking House the UNESCO designated Hallyeosudo natural and traditional heritage. Tripitaka Koreana Printing 1,975-m-long ropeway from haeinsa Temple, which houses Woodblocks and its depositories. Mireuksan Mountain overlooks the Hallyeohaesang National Park. the UNESCO designated Tripitaka Hongnyudong Valley Koreana printing woodblocks, the Valley stretching about 4 km from Haegeumgang Riverboat the entrance of Gayasan National Riverboat touring through Hallyeohaesang National Park, Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO Park to Haeinsa Temple. mesmerizing attractions along which is often dubbed the Napoli Haegeumgang Island. Jinjuseong Fortress of the Orient, and Jirisan National Home to Chokseongnu Pavilion, Oedo Botania Park are all spectacular natural one of the three major pavilions Located within the Hallyeohaesang of Korea. National Park, this botanical attractions in Gyeongsangnam- garden offers splendid vistas. do. You can take a riverboat tour German Village Red roofs over white walls, this to see the extraordinary beauty of Ropeway Overlooking Hallyeosudo ⓒKTO village depicts a typical German the sea. farming village.

Dongpirang Mural Village Painters from around the country saved this village, which was on the verge of demolition, by

Somaemuldo Island ⓒKTO Dongpirang Mural Village ⓒKTO drawing murals on the fences of this village. 242 | 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes | 16. Jeju Special Self-Governing Province | jejutour.go.kr | 243

Routes 1 40 Minutes Jeju 55 Minutes 5 Minutes + 15 Minutes Hallasan Kimnyoung Manjanggul Udo Island Special Self-Governing Province National Park Maze Park Cave ( Jejudo Island) Routes 2 35 Minutes 45 Minutes 50 Minutes

A World Heritage Created Seongsan Bijarim Kim Young-gap Soesokkak by a Volcanic Eruption Ilchulbong Peak Forest Gallery Dumoak Estuary

The largest island of Korea, Jeju Hallasan National Park Bijarim Forest Mountain formed by a volcanic Home to over 3,000 nutmeg trees Special Self-governing Province eruption in the center of the about 300 to 800 years old. was formed due to a volcanic island. Kim Young-gap Gallery eruption over a million years Kimnyoung Maze Park Dumoak ago. Lava spewing from Hallasan Designed by maze designer Adrin Exhibits photos taken by late Fisher and built by Frederic H. photographer Kim Young-gap, Mountain, located in the center Dustin, an American who fell in who dedicated his entire life to of the island, created numerous love with Jejudo Island. taking pictures of Jejudo Island. caves, cliffs, waterfall and other Manjanggul Cave Soesokkak Estuary

natural creations while flowing Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak ⓒKTO Lava tube registered as a UNESCO Unique rock formations and a World Heritage site. dense forest created this beautiful towards the ocean. About 10% natural attraction. of this popular tourist island Udo Island Located east of Jejudo Island, it is has been designated a UNESCO often referred to as an island of an World Heritage. island. Also a volcanic island it has a circumference of 17 km.

Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak Landform created by an underwater volcanic eruption, this crown-shaped tuff cone is a Jusangjeolli Cliffⓒ KTO Udo Island ⓒKTO UNESCO Global Geopark. 244 | Recommended Routes by Theme | 245

Theme 1 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Hall → Seosin-dong Makgeolli Village → Hanok Experience Culture” Baekje Cultural Complex → Yeonipbap → Gongju National Themed ➊ Seoul “ and Home of World Cultural Sites ➋ Seoul “City Where Tradition and Modernity Co-Exist” Kimchi Museum → COEX → Bongeunsa Temple (Templestay) Museum → Magoksa Temple (Templestay) and Traditional Culture” → Korea House Must-see Routes Shrine → Insa-dong → Changdeokgung Palace → Bukchon Hanok Village → Samcheong-dong ➌ Gyeonggi-do “Birthplace of Rice and Suwon Theme 8 Natural Attractions ➋ Gyeongju “City with History and Culture of the Silla Galbi Enjoyed by Royal Famillies” ➊ Jejudo Island “Island Made of Volcanic Activities One Icheon Ceramic Village → Ssambap jeongsik → Suwonhwaseong Period for a Millennium” Million Years Ago” Fortress Bulguksa Temple → Seokguram Grotto → Yoseokgung → Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak → Abalone Dish → Seopjikoji Coast Gyeongju National Museum → Bomun Lake Resort → Jungmun Resort Recommended must-see routes of Korea ➌ Gyeongsangbuk-do “Preserving the Spirit of Traditional Theme 5 Health Care ➋ Gangwon-do “Beautiful Mountains, Valleys, and East Sea” are categorized by theme. Choose the Korean Villages” ➊ Seoul “State-of-the-Art Medical Technology and Namiseom Island → Chuncheon-makguksu → Daegwallyeong Andong Folk Museum → Andong-jjimdak → Andong Hahoe Outstand Services” Sheep Ranch → Seoraksan National Park theme of your tour and select from the Village → Buyongdae Cliff→ Old House Experience Health Screening at a General Hospital → Hanbang (Oriental ➌ Jeollanam-do “Historic Cities with Colorful Four Seasons” Medicine) Dish → Spa & Sauna → Temple Food following routes. Seryangji Lake → Full-Course Korean Meal → Soswaewon Garden Theme 2 Shopping ➋ Daegu “Home of Traditional Oriental Medicine” → Damyang Metasequoia Forest Road Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Market → Hanbang-samgyetang ➊ Seoul “Home to Chic Shopping Attractions and the → Daegu Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Medicine → Latest Trendy Items” Theme 9 Donghwasa Temple (Tea Ceremony) → Dongseongno Leisure Sports → Hannam-dong → Apgujeong-dong → ➊ Gangwon-do “Heaven of Leisure Sports Surrounded by Cheongdam-dong → Garosu-gil Road ➌ Gyeongju “Searching for Healty Traditional Mendicine in Outstanding Nature” ➋ Gyeonggi-do “Luxury Shopping Towns, Ideal for a Histric City” Conmaul Gyeongju Oriental Hospital → Ssambap → Namsan Alpensia Resort → Pollack and Buckwheat Dish → Jeongseon Weekend Sojourns” Mountain Trekking → Silla Millennium Park → Railbike → Hwaam Cave → Kangwon Land Premium Outlets → Paju Premium Outlets → Ilsan Lake Ragung ➋ Gyeonggi-do “Exciting Water Sports on the Hangang Park → Lafesta River and Cheongpyeong Lake” ➌ Busan “Vibrant, Exotic Port City” Theme 6 Ecological Tourism Misari Motorboat Racing Park → Naengmyeon and Noodle Centum City → Haeundae Beach → Nampo-dong Guje ➊ Gyeongsangnam-do “Gorgeous Coastal Landscape and Dish → Studio Complex → Cheongpyeong Water Market → Jagalchi Market → Gwangalli Beach Emerald Blue Sea” Sports Town Daraengi Village → Haemul-doenjang-jjigae and Makgeolli → ➌ Jejudo Island “Endless Attractions of the Blue Ocean” Theme 3 Beauty Care Hyangiram Hermitage → Suncheonman Bay Jejudo Island Yachting Tour → Mackerel and Hairtail Dishes ➋ Jeollanam-do “Slow City for a Leisurely Life” ➊ Seoul “Center of Luxury Fashion and Beauty Care Trends” → Soesokkak Estuary Transparent Kayak Experience → Slow City Changpyeong → Damyang -galbi → Hotel Spas → Nail Care and Skin Care → Hair Salons in Cheonjiyeon Falls Seoul → Cheongdam-dong → Dosan Park Juknokwon Garden Slow City Jeungdo Island Incheon ➌ Jejudo Island “Vacation Island with Pristine Nature at Its Gangwon-do Chungcheongnam-do “The West Coast to Soothe Your ➋ Theme 10 Best” Advanced Industry Gyeonggi-do Mind and Body” → → ➊ Daejeon “Future of the Advanced Science City” Boryeong Mud Skincare Center → Taean Seafood → Chollipo Jeju Olle Trails Mulhoe Hallasan National Park (Trails) Chungcheongbuk-do Daejeon Aqua World → Expo Science Park → Korea Aerospace Chungcheongnam-do Arboretum → Resom Ocean Castle Gyeongsangbuk-do Research Institute → Yuseong Spa Daejeon ➌ Busan “Center of Rising Medical Tourism” Theme 7 Traditional Culture ➋ Seoul “Technology for Humans, Future for Cities” Seomyeon Medical Street → Bujeon Ginseng Market → Dongnae- Daegu ➊ Seoul “Harmony of Urban and Traditional Landscapes” Jeollabuk-do Samsung Dlight → Gangnam Station → T.um → Digital Ulsan pajeon and Milmyeon → Centum City Spa Land Gyeongbokgung Palace → Seochon Hanok Street → Gyeongsangnam-do Pavilion → Hongik University Busan Samgyetang → National Museum of Korea → Itaewon Gwangju ➌ Incheon “City of Future with Unique Art and Cultural Jeollanam-do Theme 4 Food ➋ Jeollabuk-do “City of Traditional Culture and Art” Heritage” Jeonju Hanji Museum → Jeonju Bibimbap → Jeonju Hanbang ➊ Jeollabuk-do “Place to Appreciate Korean Food with a Incheon Art Platform → Incheon China Town → Tomorrow Cultural Center → Jeonju Hanok Village → Hanok Experience Jeju Rich Heritage” City → Songdo Central Park Special Self-Governing Province Jeonju Hanok Village → Jeonju Bibimbap → Gyeonggijeon ➌ Chungcheongnam-do “Home of the Baekje History and (Jejudo Island) 246 | Travel Information | 247

General Information Transportation

Currency Airports The Korean unit of currency is the won (\). It consists Cellular Phones If you forgot or can’t change your of a 50,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000 won note, and phone to roaming, KT, SK and LG, Korea’s major phone Airport Website Tel 500, 100, 50, 10 won coins. There are bank windows at service providers, have cellular phone rental booths ➊ Gimpo Int’l Airport gimpo.airport.co.kr 02-2660-2114 ➐ at the airport. ➋ Incheon Int’l Airport airport.or.kr 032-741-0114 the Incheon International Airport, and at shops within ➊ ➌ Jeju Int’l Airport jeju.airport.co.kr 064-797-2114  the airport, downtown hotels, duty free shops accept Area Codes in Korea (D.D.D.) ➋ ➍ Int’l Airport gimhae.airport.co.kr 051-972-3010 U.S. dollars. Seoul 02 Busan 051 ➎ Cheongju Int’l Airport cheongju.airport.co.kr 043-210-6114 Credit Cards There are many banks, money exchangers Daegu 053 Incheon 032 ➎ ➏ Daegu Int’l Airport daegu.airport.co.kr 053-980-5290 and ATMs throughout Korea. Major credit cards are Gwangju 062 Daejeon 042 ➐ Yangyang Int’l Airport yangyang.airport.co.kr 033-670-7114  accepted in most restaurants, cafes, malls, etc. Ulsan 052 Gyeonggi-do 031 ➓ ➏ ➑ Gwangju Int’l Airport gwangju.airport.co.kr 062-940-0214 Chungcheong Exchange Rate Gangwon-do 033 043  buk-do ➒ Muan Int’l Airport muan.airport.co.kr 061-455-2114 USD 1$ 1,098\ Chungcheong ➍ CNY 10¥ 1,757\ 041 Jeollabuk-do 063 ➓ Gunsan Airport gunsan.airport.co.kr 063-469-8345 ➑  nam-do ➒ JPY 100¥ 1,372\ Gyeongsang  Jeollanam-do 061 054  pohang.airport.co.kr 054-289-7309 EUR 1€ 1,420\ buk-do Gyeongsang  yeosu.airport.co.kr 061-683-7997 *As of October, 2012 055 Jejudo Island 064 nam-do  ulsan.airport.co.kr 052-219-6309 Sejong 044  Airport wonju.airport.co.kr 033-344-3311 ➌ Electricity  Airport sacheon.airport.co.kr 055-852-0768 The standard voltage in Korea is 220 volts, and the Internet outlet has two round holes. If you do not have a Most hotels have a computer/internet area for its Trains Express Buses multi-voltage adapter, most tourist hotels have guests. These days, restaurants, cafes, and most public To inquire about fares, hours and reservations call You can reserve tickets online at KOBUS (kobus.co.kr). adapters available upon request. areas offer free wi-fi access. If you are asked for an id KORAIL at 1544-7788. Or you can also visit their You cannot make reservations through the English and password, ask the store for Website korail.com (English site available). site, but you may check availability. Internet Cafes Being a fast IT country, internet cafe, Telephone Useful Phone Numbers PCbang in Korean, are very easy to find. You can use a Public Phones Although somewhat hard to find, public Car Rental Travel Information Call Center 1330 computer for 1,000 to 1,500 won per hour. Rental cars in Korea are very easy to find. Rental cars International Call Information Center 00794 phones in Korea are easy to use and take either phone Emergency Medical Service for Foreigners 1339 cards or coins. Coined phones charge 70 won for the first are especially convenient if you are a free-spirited Police 112 Fire & Ambulance 119 180 seconds on local calls, and 43 seconds on domestic traveler and prefer visiting random sites that come Pharmacies Operator Assisted International Call 00799 along the way. ※Call the 1330 Travel Information Call long distance calls. Phone cards may be purchased at If you are staying at a hotel, go to the front desk for International Telegram Service 00795 Center for the nearest rental car agency Tourist Complaint Center 02-735-0101 convenience stores, post offices of banks, and you may emergency over-the-counter medication. Otherwise, Interpretation Service BBB 1588-5644 call international long distance as well. look for the nearest pharmacy. (Before Babel Brigade) I Love Korea! www.visitkoreayear.com www.mustseeroutes.or.kr

Publisher Shin Dong-bin (Visit Korea Committee, Chairman) Planning Visit Korea Committee, Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper Writers Kathleen Stephens and others Compiler Son Min-ho (Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper) Planning & Design Design Soomokwon Inc. Address 34 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul Telephone 02-6272-7317 Fax 02-6272-7200

※Content of this book is valid as of October, 2012, and changes may have occurred thereafter.

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