©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to ...... 2

Map ...... 4 Welcome to 13 Top Experiences ...... 6 Korea Need to Know ...... 14 First Time ...... 16 If You Like ...... 18 COUNTRY & CITY HEALTHY TRAVEL PHRASEBOOK Month by Month ...... 21 Yin & Yang Ancient & Modern The blue and red circle at the heart of the Academics9 still quibble over whether the The original South Korean Á ag neatly symbolises not Land of the Morning Calm (a term coined • 4

only the divided Korean Peninsula, but by THOMASGETTY ARTHUR/IMAGES © travel writer Percival Lowell in 1885) is also the Á uid mix of ancient and modern an accurate translation of the old Chinese aspects of the country o՘ cially called characters by which all of Korea was once Comprehensive Itineraries ...... 23 the Republic of Korea (ROK), where the known. Dive into Seoul, the powerhouse • vast majority of visitors to this part of the of Asia’s third-largest economy, and calm world will spend their time. is the last thing you’ll feel. This round-the- is a dream destination for the traveller, an clock city is constantly on the move, its Adventurous engaging, welcoming place where the ben- ‘work hard, play hard’ population the epit- • eÀ ts of a fully industrialised, high-tech na- ome of the nation’s indefatigable, can-do tion are balanced alongside a reverence for spirit. Founded on centuries of tradition Outdoor Activities ...... 27 tradition and the ways of old Asia. that manifest in the daily pageantry of the changing of the guard at meticulously re- constructed palaces, or in the chants of a Regions at a Glance ...... 33 shaman on a hillside, Seoul is nonetheless

23

33 Itiner- Whether you’ve got a week or a month, these itineraries provide aries a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? r e g i o n s Head online to lonelyplanet.com 5 SFLCHOICE / ALAMY © Looking for other travel resources? /thorntree to chat with other at a travellers. G y e o n g g i - d o glance & Incheon G a n g w o n - d o NORTH Seoraksan Islands 333 Hiking 333 KOREA National Park Sokcho •#•# History 33 Skiing 33 DMZ & Chuncheon É Art 33 Quirky 33 Panmunjeon •#

•# Gangneung É É •# Seoul #_ •# Jeongdongjin CHINA #_ •# Island Escapes Misty Hwaseongul & •# Samcheok

Scores of islands Mountains Daegeumgul •# Haesindang flaking off like Seoraksan National É Park crumbs into the Park abounds with •# EAST SEA Hahoe Folk (SEA OF JAPAN) West Sea make for gorgeous vistas Village S e o u l perfect escapes of mist-shrouded Gyeongju History 333 from the Seoul– crags that rarely WEST SEA •# Food 333 Icheon urban grip. fail to stun. The (YELLOW SEA) •# Seokguram Shopping 333 Try historic Gang- valleys are full of Busan hwado or laid-back quiet temples, hot •# Muuido, which has springs and hiking gorgeous beaches. trails.

Historical Landmarks Historical Sites Hit the Slopes

# Given how thoroughly it was trashed The DMZ splitting Host of the 2018 – during the Korean War, it’s no small North and South Winter Olympics, miracle that so many of Seoul’s historical Korea is a must-see, Pyeongchang’s SOUTH SEA (EAST CHINA SEA) landmarks remain. A number of them as are the Unesco Yongpyong and •# Jeju-do JAPAN are meticulous reconstructions, but that World Heritage– Alpensia ski resorts doesn’t diminish their significance or listed fortress walls aren’t the biggest impact. surrounding the in- in the world but ner core of Suwon. they pack in tonnes Food & Drink of family-friendly Artistic Places Seoul is the best place in the country to options like inner- The pottery town of sample the full range of Korean culinary tube slides. delights – from hot kimchi stews and Icheon draws in sizzling street snacks to the delicate and ceramics lovers; The Unknown beautifully presented morsels that make Heyri near the DMZ up a royal banquet. DMZ border is a se- Peek into North rene village packed Korea at the north- Shoppers’ Delight with small galleries; ernmost point At all times of the day or night there’s see something dif- along the DMZ at always somewhere to shop in Seoul. The ferent in the exhibi- the Goseong Unifi- teeming markets of Dongdaemun and tions at Incheon cation Observatory, Namdaemun are must-do experiences, as Art Platform or the or go deep under is cruising the boutiques and department sculptures of An- the zone itself in stores of Myeong-dong or ritzy Apgu- yang Art Park. the Second Infil- jeong and Cheongdam. tration Tunnel in p 92 Cheorwon. p 38 p118

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 335 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine KOREA can make sense of what you see

population per sq km Korea Today ...... 336 KOREA UK USA History ...... 339 ≈ 30 people Lonely Planet in numbers

gate war with China, defeating it in 1895. After another eca e of im erial rivalry over Korea, Japan smashed Russia in ightning nava an

The Korean People ...... 359 CO land attacks, stunning the world because a ‘yellow’ country had defeated a ‘white’ power. Korea Today Joseon Royal Japan was now in a secure position to realise its territorial am itions 70 12 100,000,000 190+ Court Culture by Shin Myung-ho with regard to Korea, which became a Japanese protectorate in 1905 an (2004) details a colony in 1910, with the acquiescence of all the great powers. It was a Chan ges of Guard the facts about strange colony, coming ‘late’ in world time, after most of the world had In the Korean Kitchen .... 363 the unique Confu- been divided up, and after progressive calls had emerged to dismantle Succession issues have dominated the Korean peninsula of late. In Octo- languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered cian royal-court the entire colonial system. Furthermore, Korea had most of the prerequi- ber 2011, Park Won-soon, a former human rights lawyer and independ- lifestyle. Based on ent candidate, was elected Seoul’s mayor, ending a decade of right-wing primary sources, sites for nationhood long before most other countries: common ethnic- the superbly illus- ity, language and culture, and well-recognised national boundaries since political domination of the capital. trated book gives the 10th century. North of the border, Kim Jong-un was hailed the ‘great successor’, by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet a human context Japan tried to destroy the Korean sense of national identity. A Japa- following the death of his father Kim Jong-il in December 2011. Lit- to the now-empty nese ruling elite replaced the Korean yangbann scholar-officials; Japanese Architecture & Arts ...... 373 palaces. tle is known about Kim Jnr, the third in the family dynasty that has modern education replaced the Confucian classics; Japanese capital and expertise were built up in place of the Korean versions – Japanese talent ruled the repressive single-party state since 1948; even his birthday (1982–1984?) is unclear. North Korea analysts have since scrambled to on our Thorn Tree guide for Korean talent; and eventually even the was replaced uly 2012 with Japanese. ident Lee interpret scraps of news from the secretive country, such as the public Koreans never thanked the Japanese for these substitutions and did g-bak made appearances of Ri Sol-ju, officially acknowledged as Kim’s wife, and The Natural not credit Japan with creations. Instead they saw Japan as snatching ationally Kim’s promotion to the rank of marshal, making him supreme com away the ancien regime, Korea’s sovereignty and independence, its in- ed apology mander of the army. travel forum digenous if incipient modernisation and, above all, its national dignity. r several No such dynasties can be forged in the democratic South, where Presi- Most Koreans never saw Japanese rule as anything but illegitimate and bers of his y, including dent Lee Myung-bak served out his five-year term of office and was re Environment ...... 378 other and laced in an election in December 2012. 1894 1895 JON VINCENT ONG / JOVIJOVIJOVI / GETTY IMAGES © Peasants rise up in the Queen Min is assas- Donghak Rebellion. sinated at Gyeong- The rebels are de- bokgung palace. feated but the Joseon Posthumously named court responds with Empress Myeong- the Gabo Reform, seong, Min is consid- abolishing slavery ered a national heroine STAY IN TOUCH among other sweeping for her reforms and changes. attempts to maintain Korea’s independence.

» Gyeongbokgung Palace (p39) lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179- 918- 7 99625 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 799187 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

korea-9-cover.indd 2 31/10/2012 12:22:54 PM PAGE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE ON THE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 36 ROAD and insider tips

North Korea p302

Seoul p38 Gangwon-do #_ p118 Gyeonggi-do & Incheon p92 Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do p288 p271 Gyeongsangbuk-do Jeollabuk-do p143 p258 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do Jeollanam-do p204 p178

Jeju-do p226

PAGE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO SURVIVAL HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP 383 393 Sea International ferries are worth considering if you’re GUIDE travelling around North Asia. China Ferries link a dozen Chinese ports with Incheon (p 110 ). Japan Regular ferries shuttle between Busan and four Japanese cities: Fukuoka, Directory A–Z...... 384 Shimonoseki, Osaka and Tsushima. Faster services are available on hydrofoils (www.mirejet.co.kr) from Bu- san to Fukuoka – see p 193 for full details. Korail (www.korail.com) Transport...... 393 Korea-Japan Joint Railroad Ticket lasts a week and of- Transport fers discounts of up to 30% on train fares in Korea and to China and Japan) from Japan and on ferry tickets GETTING THERE Gimpo International Airport between the two countries & AWAY (p 90 ), Gimhae International from Busan. Language...... 398 Airport (p 192) for Busan, and Jeju International Airport Russia Entering the (p 238 ). View www.airport DBS Cruise Ferry Co (www .co.kr for information on all .dbsferry.com) runs the ferry Country the airports. ‘Eastern Dream’ that makes Most visitors don’t need a the trip from Donghae in visa, but if your country is not Tickets Gangwon-do to Vladivostok Index...... 408 on the visa-free list, you will Good deals can be found on a regular basis; check the need one (see p 391 ). online and with discount company website for fares agencies. Korean airport and the schedule, which var- departure taxes are included ies by season. Air in the ticket price. Prices of flights from Ko- Map Legend...... 415 Airports & Airlines rea can increase 50% in July GETTING Most international flights and August, and special of- AROUND leave from Incheon Inter- fers are less common during South Korea is a public- national Airport (p 90 ), con- holiday periods. The peak of transport dream come true. nected to Seoul by road (80 the peak for outbound flights Planes, trains and express minutes) and train (60 min- is early August, when it can buses link major cities, utes). There are also some be difficult to find a seat. intercity buses link cities international flights (mainly and towns large and small,

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater

distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu- tions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet off- sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Timothy N Hornyak, Shawn Low Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

SEOUL ...... 38 Around Samcheok...... 140 Jogyesan Taebaek...... 141 Provincial Park...... 211 GYEONGGI-DO & Taebaeksan Jirisan National INCHEON...... 92 Provincial Park...... 141 Park – West...... 212 Nagan Folk Village...... 213 GYEONGGI-DO...... 93 Wonju...... 142 Yeosu ...... 213 The Demilitarized Zone Chiaksan National Park. . .142 (DMZ) & Joint Security Dolsando...... 216 Area (JSA)...... 93 GYEONGSANGBUK- Boseong...... 216 Heyri & Paju Book City. . . 96 DO...... 143 Gangjin...... 217 Suwon ...... 98 Daegu...... 144 Duryunsan Seoul Grand Park...... 101 Around Daegu...... 151 Provincial Park...... 217 Anyang Art Park...... 102 Gyeongju...... 154 Wando ...... 218 Donggureung ...... 103 Around Gyeongju...... 164 Jindo...... 219 Namhan Sanseong Pohang...... 165 Wolchulsan National Park ...... 220 Provincial Park ...... 103 Ulleungdo ...... 168 Mokpo ...... 221 Icheon ...... 103 Andong...... 172 Dadohae Haesang INCHEON- Hahoe Folk Village ...... 175 National Park ...... 225 GWANGYEOK-SI...... 105 Cheongnyangsan Incheon ...... 105 Provincial Park ...... 175 JEJU-DO...... 226 Yeongjongdo...... 111 Juwangsan JEJU-SI...... 228 Muuido...... 113 National Park ...... 176 EASTERN JEJU-DO ...... 239 Ganghwado...... 114 BUSAN & Samyang Beach...... 239 GANGWON-DO. . . . . 118 GYEONGSANGNAM- Gimnyeong Beach...... 239 Chuncheon ...... 120 DO...... 178 Manjanggul...... 239 Samaksan...... 124 Busan...... 180 Woljeong Beach...... 239 Sokcho...... 124 Gajisan Provincial Park. . . 194 Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . . . . . 239 Around Sokcho...... 126 Geojedo...... 194 Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri. . 240 Seoraksan Tongyeong...... 195 Samdal-ri...... 243 National Park ...... 127 Jinju...... 197 Pyoseon...... 243 Gangneung...... 132 Namhaedo...... 199 Seongeup Folk Village. . . 244 Around Gangneung...... 136 Jirisan National SOUTHERN JEJU-DO. . . . . 245 Park – East...... 200 Yongpyong & Seogwipo...... 245 Alpensia Ski Resorts . . . . . 137 Jungmun Resort & Odaesan JEOLLANAM-DO. . . 204 Vicinity...... 252 National Park ...... 138 Gwangju...... 205 Sanbangsan & Samcheok...... 140 Around Gwangju...... 210 Yongmeori Coast...... 254 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

CENTRAL JEJU...... 254 Sapsido ...... 285 History...... 322 . . 254 Taean Haean The Culture...... 325 Sangumburi ...... 256 National Marine Park. . . . 286 Environment...... 329 Food & Drink...... 330 WESTERN JEJU-DO...... 256 CHUNGCHEONGBUK- Moseulpo...... 256 DO...... 288 SURVIVAL GUIDE...... 330 Gapado & Marado ...... 256 Cheongju...... 289 North Korea Directory A–Z...... 330 Hallim...... 257 Around Cheongju...... 292 Getting There & Away. . . 334 Songnisan JEOLLABUK-DO. . . . 258 National Park ...... 293 Getting Around...... 334 Jeonju...... 259 Chungju...... 295 Geumsan-Sa & Around Chungju...... 295 Moaksan Provincial Woraksan National Park. . 297 Park ...... 264 Danyang...... 298 Daedunsan Provincial Park...... 264 Sobaeksan National Park ...... 300 Maisan Provincial Park. . 264 Deogyusan National NORTH KOREA. . . . 302 Park & Muju Ski Resort. . 265 PYONGYANG...... 304 Naejangsan National Park ...... 267 AROUND Gochang...... 268 NORTH KOREA...... 315 Seonunsan Kaesong...... 315 Provincial Park...... 268 Panmunjeom & Byeonsan Bando the DMZ...... 315 National Park ...... 269 Myohyangsan...... 316 Gunsan & Seonyudo. . . . 270 Hamhung...... 317 Wonsan ...... 317 CHUNGCHEONGNAM- Kumgangsan...... 318 DO...... 271 Nampo...... 318 Daejeon...... 272 Sinchon...... 319 Gyeryongsan Paekdusan...... 319 National Park ...... 276 Mt Chilbosan...... 320 Gongju...... 277 Chongjin...... 321 Around Gongju...... 280 Rajin-Sonbong ...... 321 Buyeo...... 280 UNDERSTAND Boryeong...... 284 NORTH KOREA...... 321 Daecheon Beach ...... 284 North Korea Today...... 321 › Korea Top Experiences › Onsong

Saebyol R U S S I A Zarubino Undok Sonbong Rajin Musan 42ºN Fushun Puryong Shenyang Paekdusan (2744m) Chongjin

Kyongsong Huchang Orang Chasong Hyesan Ansan C H I N A Hwapyong Myongchon 41ºN Mt Chilbo ELEVATION Manpo Kapsan (1103m) Kilju Kanggye 1500m Pungson 1000m 500m Chosan Kimchaek 200m 0 Pyokdong N O R T H K O R E A Iiwon Tanchon Changjin Sakchu Pukchong 0 100 km Seoho 0 50 miles Shinheung 40ºN Uiju Sinbukchong Dandong Shinpo Sinuiju Kusong Myohyangsan Hongwon Ryongchon (1909m) Hamhung Hungnam 40ºN Sonchon Tokchon Chongpyong E A S T S E A Kaechon Maengsan Chongju ( S e a o f J a p a n ) Suncheon Kowon Mundok Yangdok Wonsan Kangdong 39ºN Pyongyang Tongchon Hoeyang Nampo Kosong 39ºN Kumgangsan Sariwon Ichon (1639m) Sohung Pyonggang Hwajinpo Sinchon Chorwon Kimhwa Changyon Pyeongchang HWANGHAENAM-DO Sokcho Ryongyon Kumchon Cheorwon Skiing at Alpensia and Haeju Kaesong DMZ Paro Lake Yongpyong resorts (p137) Ongjin Janggok Samyeongsan 38ºN (1198m) Panmunjeom Dongducheon Soyang Lake Heyri Chuncheon Sobaeksan National Park Ganghwado Hongcheon Do a Templestay at The DMZ Incheon Guin-sa (p300) 38ºN 14 Feel the chill of International Incheon SEOUL 4 Alpensia GANGWON-DO 5 Ulleungdo the Cold War (p93) Airport Wonju Donghae 10 Chiaksan Suwon (1288m) Samcheok Hahoe Folk Village Dokdo GYEONGGI-DO Seoul 11 Jecheon Taebaek Charming village of Historic and contemporary Chungju traditional houses (p175) 1 37ºN nonstop metropolis (p38) Chungju Lake Sobaeksan Uljin Cheonan CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO (1439m) Taean Haean Sobaeksan Maritime Gyeongju W E S T S E A National Parkk Cheongju National Park Grand remains of 37ºN ( Y e l l o w S e a ) CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO Jeomchon Bulguk-sa temple (p158) Anmyeondo Gongju Songnisan Hahoe Juwangsan Boryeong (1058m) Folk Village (721m) Daecheon Yeongdeok Suwon Daejeon GYEONGSANGBUK-DO Walk around 1 14 Gimcheon Hwaseong Fortress (p99) 3 Busan S O U T H K O R E A Seafood, beaches 36ºN Gunsan Deogyusan Yeongcheon Pohang (1614m) and cinemas (p180) Jeonju Daegu Gyeongju Boryeong JEOLLABUK-DO 9 Naejangsan Get dirty at the (763m) 36ºN mud festival (p285) Ulsan Jeju-do Namwon GYEONGSANGNAM-DO Natural wonders, Gwangju Jirisan 7 splendid hiking (p226) Jeonju (1915m) 6 Jinju Masan Untouched-by-time BUSAN JEOLLANAM-DO hanok village (p260) 35ºN Suncheon Samcheonpo Mokpo Geojedo Boseong Yeocheon Hongdo Tongyeong Jangheung Yeosu Jeju-do Heuksando Haenam Goheung Dolsando JEJU-DO Jeju-si 35ºN Dadohae Haesang Jindo Jindo Hallyeohaesang National Park Hallim Hallasan National Park Tsushima Honshu Hajodo Wando Oenarodo Yeondo Hallasan (1950m) National Park Wando Dadohae Haesang Bogildo National Park Jungmun Seogwipo Cheongsando J A P A N 0 40 km To Jeju-do S O U T H S E A 0 20 miles Geomundo (See Enlargement) ( E a s t C h i n a S e a ) 34ºN 124ºE 125ºE 126ºE 127ºE 128ºE 129ºE 130ºE 131ºE 132ºE AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Coordinating Author; Seoul, Gyeonggi-do & Incheon, Jeju-do Long before he became a travel writer and photographer, Simon spent several years living in Japan. It was from here that he first visited Seoul in 2004. He next returned in 2009 to coordinate Lonely Planet’s Korea, spending six weeks exploring Seoul and the surrounding areas. For this edition he spent two months living in Seoul before heading to Jeju-do and loved pretty much every minute. Simon has writ- ten scores of other titles for Lonely Planet and other publishers, and has contributed features to many travel magazines and newspapers around the world. Read more about Simon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/simonrichmond Shawn Low Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Shawn grew up in hot, humid, food-crazy Singapore but later made his way to less hot, less humid, food-crazy Melbourne (Australia, not Florida). He’s spent the last six years working for Lonely Planet: as an editor, commissioning editor, author, TV host and travel editor. Exploring more than half of Korea via car, bus and ferry is a hard job, but someone’s gotta do it. So he did. Post-trip hunger pangs have already struck though… Find Shawn on Twitter @shawnlow. Read more about Shawn at: lonelyplanet.com/members/shawnlow Timothy N Hornyak Gangwon-do, Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do A native of Montreal, Tim wrote his master’s thesis on Korean reunification after a research stint in Seoul. He went on to write about Japanese technology for media including CNET News and Scientific American, and has contributed to nine other Lonely Planet guidebooks including Japan and Montréal & Québec City. He firmly believes that his home- town’s greatest contribution to life on Earth is the perfection of the bagel. Read more about Timothy at: lonelyplanet.com/members/timothyhornyak Yu-Mei Balasingamchow In the Korean Kitchen Yu-Mei lives in Singapore and is the co-author of the popu- lar history title Singapore: A Biography. She has covered Vietnam and Korea for Lonely Planet, as well as Singapore and Taiwan for other publications. Her favourite Korean comfort food is dubu jjigae and her favourite Korean tipple is makgeolli (best enjoyed after a bracing hike up the nearest mountain). Follow her at www.toomanythoughts.org. She tweets at @bubblevicious. Read more about Yu-Mei at: lonelyplanet.com/members/tym

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 9th edition – February 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 918 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 23

Itiner- Whether you’ve got a week or a month, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a aries lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com /thorntree to chat with other travellers.

NORTH Seoraksan KOREA Sokcho National Park •# DMZ & •# Chuncheon É Panmunjeon •# •# Gangneung

É É •# Seoul #_ •# Jeongdongjin CHINA •# Hwaseongul & •# Samcheok

Daegeumgul •# Haesindang É Park Hahoe Folk •# EASTSEA Village (SEAOFJAPAN)

Gyeongju WESTSEA •# (YELLOWSEA) •# Seokguram

Busan

•# #–

SOUTHSEA (EASTCHINASEA) Jeju-do •# JAPAN

Two weeks South Korea’s Highlights

Set aside four or five days for Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around the lake and sample the town’s famous chicken dish, dakgalbi. Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho, then hike around the stunning peaks and water- falls of . Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view well- preserved Joseon-era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge caves Hwanseon- gul and Daegeumgul, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures. Travel back to feudal times at Hahoe Folk Village. Continue delving into Korea’s past at Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days explor- ing royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram. The dramatically located port of Busan with its beaches, fish market and urban buzz is worth a few days. From here you can fly to Jeju-do, a beautiful island with amazing vol- canic scenery best enjoyed on leisurely hikes. 24

NORTH KOREA

Incheon International Airport PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #– •# Incheon EASTSEA •# (SEAOFJAPAN) Muuido & Ulleungdo •# So-Muuido

•# Suwon WESTSEA Danyang Guin-sa (YELLOWSEA) •# •#

Mallipo É Chungju •# Limestone Beach •# É TNRARIES ITINER •# •# Caves Taean Haean É Woraksan •# National Park National Park Anmyeondo; Cheongju •#Khotji Beach •# •# Songnisan #– •# Gongju •# É National Park Sapsido •# •# •# •# Daejeon Andong Daecheon Buyeo •# Yuseong Beach Hot Springs Pohang •# Bogyeong-sa •#

Two weeks West To East Sea

From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Direct buses from here mean there’s no need to head into Seoul to reach Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the meticulously reconstructed for- tress wall, explore the palace and tuck into the town’s famous galbi (beef ribs). Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops; hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dynasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night before ferry-hopping through a few of the 130 islands and islets of the Taean Haean National Marine Park; the largest island is Anmyeondo, where you can continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach. Travel inland to Daejeon, where you can soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. From here make your way to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book, then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m- tall gold-plated Buddha statue. Chungju, home of the World Martial Arts Festival, is the gateway to the lovely Worak- san National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, small-town Korea at its most charming. From here explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park. Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages; it’s also famous for its soju (Korean-style vodka). It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang, where you should ignore the steelworks and focus in- stead on the temple Bogyeong-sa in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls. Afterwards board the ferry to Ulleungdo – a sparsely inhabited, ruggedly beautiful volcanic island that is a truly off-the-beaten-track experience. 25

Jeonju •#

•# É Jinan Deogyusan Gunsan É •# Maisan National Park •# Provincial •# •# Seonyudo •# Moaksan Provincial Park

Park; Geumsan-sa •# Tap-sa É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Gochang; Moyang Fortress

WESTSEA •# (YELLOWSEA) Damyang •# Gwangju

É Busan •# TNRARIES ITINER

Mokpo Gangjin

•# •#Namhaedo É •# Hongdo Suncheon •# •#Yeosu •# •# Bay Dadohae Boseong Daehan •#Dolsando •# Hyangiram National Park Gangjin •# Dawon Tea Celadon Plantation Museum SOUTHSEA (EASTCHINASEA)

Two weeks The Deep South Trail

It’s less than three hours from Seoul to Jeonju, the start of this 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-developed region, which offers the opportunity to visit hundreds of unspoilt islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions. Jeonju, provincial capital of Jeollabuk-do, has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and buildings; it’s also the birthplace of the classic rice dish bibimbap. Use it as a base for visiting the sixth-century temple Geumsan-sa in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can climb a pair of ‘horse ear’ moun- tains and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the temple Tap-sa. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park. The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese colonial period buildings and a well-curated modern history museum; from here hop on a ferry to the relaxing tropical island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small is- lands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful. Bronze and Iron Age tombs registered with Unesco dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress. Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Shop for bamboo products in Damyang, then take the train to Mokpo port for boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park. Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at the Gangjin Celadon Museum, and taste food and drinks made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. Go birdspotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay, then continue to Yeo- su, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff. For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on pictur- esque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at the bustling port of Busan. 26 NORTH KOREA Heyri

•# É #_ Seoul West Sea É Islands #• •#Everland Resort; Suwon •# Korean Folk Village É Karma Korea Kids Korea PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Danyang •#Sobaeksan WESTSEA National Park (YELLOWSEA) EASTSEA

(SEAOFJAPAN) – •# Daegu

# Gongju•# Jinan É •#

É É É

TNRARIES ITINER Gwangju •# •#Busan

SOUTHSEA (EASTCHINASEA)

Jeju-do •# JAPAN

Two weeks Two weeks Karma Korea Kids Korea

Temples feature on this itinerary. In This two-centre itinerary is ideal Seoul learn about Buddhism during for parents looking to balance their a Templelife program at Seoul’s Jogye- own travelling needs with those of sa or Bongeun-sa temples. their toddlers and teens. Seoul has Danyang is the transit point for Sobaek- an abundant number of kid-friendly attrac- san National Park, where you’ll find highly tions, including parks, aquariums and, in modern Guin-sa, headquarters of the Cheon- summer, outdoor swimming pools. Older tae sect. From Gongju, one-time capital of kids will most likely be happy cruising the Korea’s Baekje dynasty, visit Magok-sa, a capital’s vast shopping malls and depart- remote and ancient temple with a hall of ment stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s 1000 pint-sized disciples that are all slightly pervasive pop culture. different. Day trips include the beaches of the West Daegu is the base for trips to stunning Sea islands, Korea’s biggest amusement Haein-sa, housing a World Heritage–listed park Everland Resort and the Korean library of over 80,000 14th-century wood- Folk Village. These last two can just as blocks, and Jikji-sa, a magnificent temple easily be visited from Suwon, where every- dating to the 5th century. one will have fun hiking around the walls Jinan is the access town for Tap-sa, a tiny of an 18th-century fortress. North of Seoul, temple surrounded by two ‘horse ear’ moun- the modern village of Heyri is an opportu- tains and an extraordinary sculptural gar- nity to relax and distract small children with den of 80 stone pinnacles (or towers) that some inventive sculptures and art exhibits. were piled up by a Buddhist mystic. From Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, an island Gwangju, visit Unju-sa, with its fine collec- blessed with a fascinating volcanic land- tion of stone pagodas and unusual twin and scape and dozens of sandy beaches. Amuse- reclining Buddhas. ment and water parks, cycle and skate hire, Finish in Busan, home to Tongdo-sa, said and a whole raft of adventure activities from to be Korea’s largest and most important quad biking to scuba diving are possible on Buddhist temple; it has an excellent Buddhist this fun-packed island with plenty of world- art museum containing 30,000 artefacts. class resorts. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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