©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Korea

North p306

Seoul p38 Gangwon-do Around #_ p119 p94 Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do p293 p276 Gyeongsangbuk-do p147 Jeollabuk-do p263 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do Jeollanam-do p182 p208

Jeju-do p231

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Korea . . . . . 4 SEOUL...... 38 Ulleungdo ...... 172 Korea Map...... 6 ...... 176 Hahoe Folk Village. . . . . 179 Korea’s Top 13...... 8 AROUND SEOUL. . . . 94 Gyeonggi-do ...... 95 Cheongnyangsan Need to Know...... 16 Provincial Park...... 180 The Demilitarized Zone First Time Korea...... 18 (DMZ) & Joint Security Juwangsan Area (JSA)...... 95 National Park ...... 180 If You Like…...... 20 Heyri...... 98 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Suwon & Around . . . . . 101 BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAM- Itineraries ...... 25 Anyang Art Park...... 104 DO...... 182 Outdoor Activities. . . . 29 Donggureung ...... 104 Busan...... 185 . . . . . 104 Regions at a Glance. . . . 34 Gajisan Icheon ...... 105 Provincial Park...... 197 - Geojedo...... 198 gwangyeok-si ...... 106 Tongyeong...... 200 Incheon ...... 107 Jinju...... 201 Yeongjongdo...... 112 Namhaedo...... 204

FLICKR RENAN4 / GETTY IMAGES © Muuido...... 112 West Sea Islands . . . . . 115 National Park – East . . . .206 Ganghwado...... 116 JEOLLANAM-DO. . . 208 GANGWON-DO. . . . . 119 Gwangju...... 209 Chuncheon...... 121 Damyang...... 215 Samak-san ...... 125 Unju-sa...... 216 Sokcho...... 125 Gurye...... 216 Suncheon & Around . . . . 217 National Park ...... 129 Yeosu ...... 218 GANGNAM (P52), SEOUL Gangneung...... 134 Boseong...... 221 Pyeongchang ...... 139 Gangjin...... 222 Gohan...... 141 Haenam...... 222

FIDELIS SIMANJUNTAK / GETTY IMAGES © Odaesan Wando ...... 223 National Park ...... 142 ...... 225 Samcheok...... 143 Dadohae Haesang Wonju...... 145 National Park ...... 229 Chiaksan National Park ...... 145 JEJU-DO...... 231 GYEONGSANGBUK- Jeju-si...... 233 DO...... 147 Eastern Jeju-do. . . . . 241 Daegu...... 148 Gimnyeong Beach. . . . . 241 Manjang-gul ...... 242 TRADITIONAL Gyeongju ...... 158 Pohang...... 169 Woljeong Beach...... 243 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . . . . . 243 Taean-haean Korea Today...... 340 National Marine Seongsan-ri History...... 343 & Sinyang-ri ...... 244 Park ...... 291 Seongeup The Korean People. . . . 363 Folk Village ...... 247 CHUNGCHEONGBUK- In the Korean Southern Jeju-do. . . . 249 DO...... 293 Kitchen...... 367 Cheongju...... 294 Seogwipo...... 249 Arts & Jungmun Resort Songnisan Architecture ...... 377 & Around...... 254 National Park ...... 298 The Natural Sagye-ri...... 256 Chungju ...... 299 Environment...... 382 Central Jeju...... 257 . . . . 306 Hallasan SURVIVAL National Park ...... 257 Pyongyang...... 308 GUIDE Sangumburi ...... 260 Kaesong...... 319 Western Jeju-do. . . . . 260 Panmunjom & Moseulpo...... 260 the DMZ...... 320 Directory A–Z...... 388 Inland Region...... 261 Myohyangsan...... 321 Transport...... 397 Hallim...... 262 Hamhung...... 322 Language...... 402 Wonsan ...... 322 JEOLLABUK-DO. . . 263 Kumgangsan...... 323 Index...... 410 Jeonju...... 264 Nampo...... 323 Map Legend...... 422 Naejangsan Sinchon...... 324 National Park ...... 269 Paekdusan...... 324 Muju & Deogyusan Chilbosan...... 325 National Park ...... 270 Chongjin ...... 326 Gochang Rajin-Sonbong ...... 326 & Around...... 272 Understand Byeonsan-bando North Korea...... 327 National Park ...... 273 Survival Guide ...... 335 Gunsan & Seonyudo...... 274 SPECIAL FEATURES

CHUNGCHEONGNAM- Outdoor DO...... 276 Activities...... 29 Daejeon...... 277 The Korean Gyeryongsan People ...... 363 National Park ...... 282 In the Korean Gongju...... 283 Kitchen ...... 367 Magok-sa...... 285 Arts & Buyeo...... 286 Architecture ...... 377 Boryeong The Natural & Around...... 289 Environment. . . . . 382 Sapsido ...... 290 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25

Itineraries

NORTH KOREA •#•# Sokcho DMZ •# Chuncheon É É •# É Gangneung Seoul #_ •# CHINA •# Jeongdongjin

•#Samcheok Hwanseongul & •#

Daegeumgul •#Haesindang É Park

Hahoe Folk •# E A S T S E A ( S E A O F J A PA N ) Village É

Gyeongju W E S T S E A •# ( Y E L L O W S E A ) •#

•# Busan

# –

S O U T H S E A ( E A S T C H I N A S E A ) Jeju-do •# JAPAN

2 WEEKS ’s Highlights

Access the best of Korea on this trip taking in the dynamic capital Seoul, the southern , lost-in-time country towns, quirky sights and beautiful Jeju-do. Spend four or five days in Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around Uiam Lake and sample the town’s fa- mous chicken dish, dakgalbi. Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho then hike around the stunning peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view well- preserved -era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge Hwanseongul and Daegeumgul caves, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures. Delve into Korea’s past at serene Hahoe Folk Village and Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days exploring royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram. Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where you can enjoy amazing volcanic scenery on leisurely hikes. 26

NORTH KOREA

Incheon International Airport PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #– •# Incheon •# E A S T S E A É ( S E A O F J A PA N ) Muuido & Ulleungdo •# So-Muuido

•#Suwon W E S T S E A ( Y E L L O W S E A ) Danyang •# •# Guin-sa É É Mallipo É

Chungju •# •# Limestone É

It Beach •# É •# Caves i nerar Taean Haean Woraksan National Park National Park •# Anmyeondo Cheongju •#Khotji Beach •# •# Songnisan f# Gongju •# É National Park i es •# Sapsido •# •# •# •# Daejeon Andong Daecheon Buyeo •# Beach Yuseong É Hot Springs Pohang •# Bogyeong-sa •#

3 WEEKS West Sea to East Sea

This cross-country itinerary is ideal for those looking to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy trails. From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the me- ticulously reconstructed fortress wall. Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops – hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dy- nasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night. Return to Daecheon and continue north by bus to Anmyeondo, the largest island in the Taean Haean National Marine Park. Continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some the new Haebyeongil trails through the park. Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m-tall gold-plated Buddha statue. Chungju is the gateway to lovely Woraksan National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, which is small-town Korea at its most charming. Explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park. Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages. It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island. 27

Deogyusan National Park

Jeonju •#

•# É É Jinan É É •# Gunsan •# •# Moaksan •#Maisan Provincial Park

Seonyudo•# Provincial •# É Park Ta p-sa PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•#Gochang; Moyang Fortress WEST SEA () •#Damyang •# Gwangju É

É Busan •# It i nerar

Mokpo •# •# É •#Namhaedo

Hongdo & •# Suncheon É É Gangjin Heuksando •# Bay •#Yeosu •# •# Boseong

•#Dolsando i es Dadohae Daehan •# Haesang Hyangiram National Park Dawon Tea Plantation SOUTH SEA (EAST CHINA SEA)

2 WEEKS The Deep South Trail

This 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-industrialised region offers the opportunity to visit scores of rural islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions. Jeonju has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and build- ings. Use it as a base for visiting the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between a pair of ‘horse ear’ and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the Tap-sa temple. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park. The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese- colonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful. Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress. Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park. Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste products made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. Go bird spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff. For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on picturesque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at Korea’s second-largest city, Busan. 28

NORTH KOREA Heyri •#

Seoul É #_ West Sea •# É Everland; Islands •# •# Korean Folk Village Suwon É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# Danyang •#Sobaeksan National Park W E S T S E A

( Y E L L O W S E A ) E A S T S E A

# – ( S E A O F J A PA N )

•#Daegu Gongju•# É •#

É Jinan É É •# Tongdo-sa

It Gwangju•# •# Busan i nerar i es

S O U T H S E A ( E A S T C H I N A S E A ) City & Country JAPAN Seoul & Jeju Jaunt Jeju-do •#

2 2 WEEKS City & Country WEEKS Seoul & Jeju Jaunt

Some of South Korea’s top temples feature This two-centre itinerary is well suited to on this route linking its two main cities. parents travelling with kids. In Seoul attend a Templelife program Seoul’s many parks, interactive muse- at Jogye-sa or Bongeun-sa. Danyang is ums and, in summer, outdoor swimming the transit point for Sobaeksan National pools are ideal for family fun. Older kids Park, where you’ll find modern Guin-sa, will most likely be happy cruising the capi- headquarters of the Cheontae sect. tal’s vast shopping malls and department stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s per- Daegu is the base for trips to stunning vasive pop culture. Haein-sa, housing a World Heritage–listed library of more than 80,000 14th-century Day trips include the beaches of the woodblocks, and Jikji-sa, a magnificent West Sea islands; Korea’s biggest amuse- temple dating to the 5th century. ment park, Everland; and the Korean Folk Village. The latter two can just Jinan is the access town for Tap-sa, a as easily be visited from , where tiny temple surrounded by two ‘horse ear’ Suwon it’s fun to walk around the walls of an mountains and an extraordinary sculptur- 18th-century fortress. North of Seoul, the al garden of 80 stone pinnacles (or towers). modern village of Heyri offers inventive From Gwangju, visit Unju-sa, with its fine sculptures and art exhibits. collection of stone pagodas and unusual twin and reclining Buddhas. Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, blessed with a fascinating volcanic landscape and From Gongju, one-time capital of Ko- dozens of sandy beaches. Amusement and rea’s Baekje dynasty, visit remote Magok- water parks, cycle and skate hire and a sa, with a hall of 1000 pint-sized disciples whole raft of adventure activities, from who are all slightly different. quad biking to scuba diving, are possible Finish just outside of Busan at Tongdo- on this fun-packed island with plenty of sa, which has an excellent Buddhist art world-class resorts. museum containing 30,000 artefacts. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 422

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Rebecca Milner Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do Lucky for Rebecca, Korea is just a short flight from her home in Tokyo. Previous trips had already sold her on the charms of makgeolli and jjimjilbang, so she jumped at the chance to explore the country’s southern reaches for this edition. Highlights included eating live octopus in Mokpo, steaming in the saltwater baths in Hampyeong and having morning tea on the veranda of a 100-year-old home in Jeonju. Rebecca has also written Lonely Planet’s guides to Tokyo and Japan. Follow her on Twitter @tokyorebecca. Rebecca also wrote the Arts & Architecture chapter.

Phillip Tang Gangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Phillip Tang spent this trip inviting himself to Korean homes, tagging along to local street eats and being out- hiked by Koreans twice his age bolting up mountains. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Mexico and Peru, and for other publishers. Find his photos, tweets and articles from this Korea visit through philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the In the Korean Kitchen, The Natural Environment and Survival Guide chapters.

Rob Whyte Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeju-do A Busan resident for more than 15 years, Rob spends several weeks each year backpacking across the country in search of secluded getaways. One memorable discovery on this journey was a hamburger restaurant on Udo, which has an amazing collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia including a first edition of the book. That discovery was a reminder that we have everything we need for a magnificent journey. Rob also wrote the Korean People chapter.

Contributing Author North Korea The author of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Coordinating author, Seoul UK-born writer and photographer Simon first co- ordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 9th edition of Korea and 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and travelling down to Jeju-do. For Korea 10, Simon co-ordinated the general coverage of the country and covered central, northern and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoyable but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, as well as the Korea Today and History chapters.

Megan Eaves Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor, Megan has worked on Lonely Plan- et’s China guide and is a recent convert to the delights of the Korean peninsula. Originally from New Mexico, she is a mountain girl at heart and an avid skier. For this edition, she researched Korea’s winter activities, downing as much kimchi, fried chicken and soju as she could in between stints on the country’s many snowy slopes. You can follow her on Twitter @megoizzy. Megan contributed to the chapters Gangwon-do, Around Seoul, Chungcheongbuk-do and Jeollabuk-do. Read more about Megan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/meganeaves Trent Holden Around Seoul Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing as- signments, this is Trent’s first gig working on theKorea book for Lonely Planet. He researched the regions surrounding Seoul, where he was blown away by the area’s diversity and beauty. Trent has worked on over 20 books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – February 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 500 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ABCDEGF H e# 05km GANGBUK- ABC D EGF H J KLM Greater Seoul 02.5 miles GU 0200 m D3 Gwangjang Market J7 Bukhansan NOWON- e# 00.1 miles 1 National

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