©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Korea North Korea p306 Seoul p38 Gangwon-do Around Seoul #_ p119 p94 Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do p293 p276 Gyeongsangbuk-do p147 Jeollabuk-do p263 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do Jeollanam-do p182 p208 Jeju-do p231 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Korea . 4 SEOUL . 38 Ulleungdo . 172 Korea Map . 6 Andong . 176 Hahoe Folk Village . 179 Korea’s Top 13 . .. 8 AROUND SEOUL . 94 Gyeonggi-do . 95 Cheongnyangsan Need to Know . 16 Provincial Park . 180 The Demilitarized Zone First Time Korea . 18 (DMZ) & Joint Security Juwangsan Area (JSA) . 95 National Park . 180 If You Like… . 20 Heyri . 98 Month by Month . 23 Suwon & Around . 101 BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAM- Itineraries . 25 Anyang Art Park . 104 DO . 182 Outdoor Activities . 29 Donggureung . 104 Busan . 185 Namhansanseong . 104 Regions at a Glance . 34 Gajisan Icheon . 105 Provincial Park . 197 Incheon- Geojedo . 198 gwangyeok-si . 106 Tongyeong . 200 Incheon . 107 Jinju . 201 Yeongjongdo . 112 Namhaedo . .. 204 FLICKR RENAN4 / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / RENAN4 FLICKR Muuido . 112 Jirisan West Sea Islands . 115 National Park – East . .206 Ganghwado . 116 JEOLLANAM-DO . 208 GANGWON-DO . 119 Gwangju . 209 Chuncheon . 121 Damyang . 215 Samak-san . 125 Unju-sa . 216 Sokcho . 125 Gurye . 216 Seoraksan Suncheon & Around . 217 National Park . 129 Yeosu . 218 GANGNAM (P52), SEOUL Gangneung . 134 Boseong . 221 Pyeongchang . 139 Gangjin . 222 Gohan . 141 Haenam . 222 FIDELIS SIMANJUNTAK / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SIMANJUNTAK FIDELIS Odaesan Wando . 223 National Park . 142 Mokpo . 225 Samcheok . 143 Dadohae Haesang Wonju . 145 National Park . 229 Chiaksan National Park . 145 JEJU-DO . 231 GYEONGSANGBUK- Jeju-si . 233 DO . 147 Eastern Jeju-do . 241 Daegu . 148 Gimnyeong Beach . 241 Manjang-gul . 242 TRADITIONAL HANOK Gyeongju . 158 Pohang . 169 Woljeong Beach . 243 Contents UNDERSTAND Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . 243 Taean-haean Korea Today . 340 National Marine Seongsan-ri History . 343 & Sinyang-ri . 244 Park . 291 Seongeup The Korean People . 363 Folk Village . 247 CHUNGCHEONGBUK- In the Korean Southern Jeju-do . 249 DO . 293 Kitchen . 367 Cheongju . 294 Seogwipo . 249 Arts & Jungmun Resort Songnisan Architecture . 377 & Around . 254 National Park . 298 The Natural Sagye-ri . 256 Chungju . 299 Environment . 382 Central Jeju . 257 NORTH KOREA . 306 Hallasan SURVIVAL National Park . 257 Pyongyang . .. 308 GUIDE Sangumburi . 260 Kaesong . 319 Western Jeju-do . 260 Panmunjom & Moseulpo . 260 the DMZ . 320 Directory A–Z . 388 Inland Region . 261 Myohyangsan . 321 Transport . 397 Hallim . 262 Hamhung . 322 Language . 402 Wonsan . 322 JEOLLABUK-DO . 263 Kumgangsan . 323 Index . 410 Jeonju . .. 264 Nampo . 323 Map Legend . 422 Naejangsan Sinchon . 324 National Park . 269 Paekdusan . .. 324 Muju & Deogyusan Chilbosan . 325 National Park . 270 Chongjin . .326 Gochang Rajin-Sonbong . 326 & Around . 272 Understand Byeonsan-bando North Korea . 327 National Park . 273 Survival Guide . 335 Gunsan & Seonyudo . 274 SPECIAL FEATURES CHUNGCHEONGNAM- Outdoor DO . 276 Activities . 29 Daejeon . 277 The Korean Gyeryongsan People . 363 National Park . 282 In the Korean Gongju . 283 Kitchen . 367 Magok-sa . 285 Arts & Buyeo . 286 Architecture . 377 Boryeong The Natural & Around . 289 Environment . 382 Sapsido . 290 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 Itineraries NORTH KOREA Seoraksan National Park •#•# Sokcho DMZ •# Chuncheon É É •# É Gangneung Seoul #_ •# CHINA •# Jeongdongjin •#Samcheok Hwanseongul & •# Daegeumgul •#Haesindang É Park Hahoe Folk •# E A S T S E A ( S E A O F J A PA N ) Village É Gyeongju W E S T S E A •# ( Y E L L O W S E A ) •#Seokguram •# Busan # – S O U T H S E A ( E A S T C H I N A S E A ) Jeju-do •# JAPAN 2 WEEKS South Korea’s Highlights Access the best of Korea on this trip taking in the dynamic capital Seoul, the southern port of Busan, lost-in-time country towns, quirky sights and beautiful Jeju-do. Spend four or five days in Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around Uiam Lake and sample the town’s fa- mous chicken dish, dakgalbi. Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho then hike around the stunning peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view well- preserved Joseon-era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge Hwanseongul and Daegeumgul caves, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures. Delve into Korea’s past at serene Hahoe Folk Village and Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days exploring royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram. Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where you can enjoy amazing volcanic scenery on leisurely hikes. 26 NORTH KOREA Incheon International Airport PLAN YOUR TRIP #– •# Incheon •# E A S T S E A É ( S E A O F J A PA N ) Muuido & Ulleungdo •# So-Muuido •#Suwon W E S T S E A ( Y E L L O W S E A ) Danyang •# •# Guin-sa É É Mallipo É Chungju •# •# Limestone É IT Beach •# É •# Caves I NERAR Taean Haean Woraksan National Park National Park •# Anmyeondo Cheongju •#Khotji Beach •# •# Songnisan f# Gongju •# É National Park I Sapsido •# ES •# •# •# •# Daejeon Andong Daecheon Buyeo •# Beach Yuseong É Hot Springs Pohang •# Bogyeong-sa •# 3 WEEKS West Sea to East Sea This cross-country itinerary is ideal for those looking to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy mountain trails. From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the me- ticulously reconstructed fortress wall. Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops – hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dy- nasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night. Return to Daecheon and continue north by bus to Anmyeondo, the largest island in the Taean Haean National Marine Park. Continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some the new Haebyeongil trails through the park. Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m-tall gold-plated Buddha statue. Chungju is the gateway to lovely Woraksan National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, which is small-town Korea at its most charming. Explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park. Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages. It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island. 27 Deogyusan National Park Jeonju •# •# É É Jinan É É •# Gunsan •# •# Moaksan •#Maisan Provincial Park Seonyudo•# Provincial •# É Park Ta p-sa PLAN YOUR TRIP •#Gochang; Moyang Fortress WEST SEA (YELLOW SEA) •#Damyang •# Gwangju É É Busan •# IT I NERAR Mokpo •# •# É •#Namhaedo Hongdo & •# Suncheon É É Gangjin Heuksando •# Bay •#Yeosu •# •# Boseong •#Dolsando I Dadohae Daehan •# ES Haesang Hyangiram National Park Dawon Tea Plantation SOUTH SEA (EAST CHINA SEA) 2 WEEKS The Deep South Trail This 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-industrialised region offers the opportunity to visit scores of rural islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions. Jeonju has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and build- ings. Use it as a base for visiting the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between a pair of ‘horse ear’ mountains and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the Tap-sa temple. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park. The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese- colonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful. Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress. Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park. Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste products made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. Go bird spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff.