© Lonely Planet 428 Index

38th parallel 41, see also DMZ Anyang Art Park 159-60 bears 63 63 CityABBREVIATIONS 113 aquariums Beomeo-sa 239 ACT Australian Capital Busan Aquarium 244 Beopju-sa 340 Territory A COEX Aquarium 118 bibimbap 68-9, 306, 127 NSW New South Wales accommodation, see also individual Sea World 113 bicycle travel, see cycling, mountain NT Northern Territory locations architecture 57-8, 111, 125 biking Qld Queensland North 380 area codes 394 bindaetteok 70 SA South Australia 385-8 Armistice Talks Hall 373 birds 64 Tas Tasmania activities 80-5, see also individual art galleries, see galleries, museums birdwatching 80, 183, 270 Vic Victoria activities arts 57-62, see also individual arts Biwon (Secret Garden) 105 WA Western Australia itineraries 24, 24 Asian Culture Complex 266 boat travel 401, 402-3 addresses 16 ATMs 393 boat trips air travel Axis of Evil 355 Busan 245 air fares 399-401 Chungju Lake 342 airlines 398-9 B Hong-do 281 airports 145-6, 398 Baekje Cultural Festival 17, 325, 391 Jungmun 300 to/from 384 Baekje kingdom 328 Mokpo 279 to/from South Korea 398-401 Baekje Royal Tombs 330 Seogwipo 298 within South Korea 402 Baengnyeon-sa 313 Ulleung-do 225 Alps Ski Resort 185 Ban Ki-Moon 341 Yeosu 272 Amitaba Buddha 229 banchan 71 Bogil-do 276 Ammaisan 311-12 bang 50, 140 Bogyeong-sa 221 INDEX amusement parks barbecue 69 Bokduam Hermitage 219 C & Woobang Land 202 baseball 51, 142-3, 249, 265-6, 298 Bomunho Resort 212-13 Chunhyuang Theme Park & Folk basketball 51, 143, 249 Bomun-sa 171 Museum 313 bathhouses, see hot springs & spas Bong-eun-sa 111 Ever Resort 158-9 bathrooms books, see literature Glass Castle 303 North Korea 383 Boriam 257 Kumdoriland 321 South Korea 395 Boryeong 331 Lotte World Amusement Park beaches Boryeong Mud Festival 17, 332, 112-13 Daecheon Beach 331-2 391, 124 Land 313 Eulwangni Beach 166 Boseong 273-4 O-World 321 Gimnyeong Beach 292 Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea World Cup Stadium (Seogwipo) Gwangan 242-3 Plantation 273 298 Gyeongpo Beach 187 Buddha’s Birthday Parade 119, 391 Anapji Pond 209 Haeundae 242, 244 Buddhism 55-6, see also temple stays 228-31, 228 Hongjodangoe Haebin Beach history 26-7 Andong Folk Village 228-9 294 North Korea 359-60 Andong Folklore Museum 228-9 Iho Beach 289 30, 170, 207, Andong Hanji Paper Museum 231 Jungmun Beach 300-1 208 Andong Mask Dance Festival 17, 229 Maengbang Beach 195 Bugeun-ni Dolmen 170 Anglican Church () 109 Manseong-ni Beach 272 Bukaksan 108 Anguk-sa 313 Naksan Beach 182 Bukchon Village 106 animals 63-4, see also individual Namhae-do 257 National Park 151-2 animals Pyoseon Beach 296 Bulguk-sa 213 Anmyeon 333 Samcheok Beach 195 Bullo-Dong Tumuli Park 202 Samyang Beach 292 Bulyeong-sa 234 000 Map pages Sangju 257 bungee jumping 176 000 Photograph pages Sapsi-do 332-3 Bunhwang-sa 212 Sinyang Beach 294-5 bus travel 146, 403, 404 INDEX 312 429

112 202 , 8 see also 320 345 Jong-il North Korea inside front cover 200-1

see INDEX (B-D) see 123 see also 373-4, North 380-1 Korea 390 South Korea North 383 Korea 395 South Korea (DPRK), North 381 Korea 390 South Korea North 350 Korea 14-15 South Korea cooking 117 117 culture language 117-18 taekwondo 114 North 380 Korea 389-90 South Korea mountain biking Ganghwa-do 170 (Seoul) 113, Seonyu-do 317 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 407 Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) 152-4, 183, Deogyusan National Park 312-13, Deogyusan National Park Deokgu Hot Springs 234 309 Deokjin Park Deoksugung 108-9, Damyang Bamboo Crafts Museum 269 dance 62 dangers Dangun 25 189, 391 Dano Festival Danyang 344-6, Dear Leader, Daegu National Museum 202 319-23, diarrhoea 409 disabilities, travellers with Democratic People’s Republic of Korea Democratic People’s D 281 Dadohae Haesang National Park Daecheon Beach 331-2 Daedun-sa 274 311 Daedunsan Provincial Park Daegeumgul 194 Daegu 200-6, Confucianism 27, 56, 57, 359-60 27, 56, 57, Confucianism consulates costs, courses 389 cards 393 credit 47-62 culture & ArtsCulture Center 279 customs regulations cycling 80-1, 402, 319 336 197 128 films halmoni 122

see also 175 see 23 338-9 see also Chungcheongnam-do Chungcheongbuk-do see see 109 109 17, 391 Museum 313 Anglican Church (Seoul) 109 Jeondong Catholic Church 308 Kyungdong Presbyterian Church Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral North 349-50 Korea 389 South Korea amusement parks food 74 itineraries 23, North 380 Korea Seoul 118 389 South Korea Chungcheongbuk-do 335-47, Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do 318-34, Chungju 341-2 Chungju Lake 342 Chungju World Martial Arts Festival Chungnam, Chunhyuang Theme Park & Folk Chunhyuang Theme Park Chunseolheon tea plantation 265 churches & cathedrals cinema 17, 58, City Hall (Seoul) 109 climate 14 COEX Aquarium 118 ‘comfort women’, 107 Changgyeonggung 334 Cheollipo Arboretum ObservatoryCheomseongdae 209 Cheong-gye-cheon 106, Cheongju 336-9, 339-40 Cheongnamdae 232 Provincial Park Cheongnyangsan 177-8 Cheongpyeong-sa Cheonjeyeon Pokpo 300 Cheonjiyeon Pokpo 297 Cheorwon 183 ObservatoryCheorwon Peace 183 197, Chiaksan National Park Chilbo 378-9 travel with, children, 118, 241 Grand Park Children’s with 33-4, 35 China, relations 164 Chinese Day Cultural Festival Chollima Speed 366 Chollima Statue 365 Chongjin 379-80 Christianity 56 Chuncheon 174-7, Chungbuk, 105,

, 243 inside

, 242 , see also 240 , 252 329 238 churches & cathedrals 316 see Cheondong Donggu 346 Daegeumgul 194 Gosu Donggul 344-5 303 Hallim Park Hwaseongul 194 Manjanggul 292 Ryongmun Big Cave 375 Sanbanggul-sa 301-2 Seongnyugul 234 North 382 Korea 394 South Korea Museum 187, 188 front cover 316-17, tourist offices 239 travel to/from 250-1 travel within 251 244 245-6 accommodation activities 239-44 drinking 247-8 entertainment 248-9 films 237 food 246-7 239 internet resources medical services 239 shopping 250 sights 239-44 subway 251, celadon 274 cell phones Central Buddhist Museum 106-7 ceramics 274, 277 Chamsori Gramophone & Edison caves Busosanseong 328-9 Buyeo 328-31, Buyeo National Museum 329-30 230 Byeolsingut Talnori Byeonsan Bando National Park C C & Woobang Land 202 146 CALT camping 386 canoeing 83 car travel 403 cathedrals, Busan Aquarium 244 Busan Metropolitan Art Museum 244 Busan Modern History Museum 244 Busan Tower 243 232 Buseok-sa business hours 388-9, Busan 237-52, Busan 237-52, INDEX Expo 2012Information Centre 272 exchange rates13, 158-9 Resort eunuchs 36 Eulwangni Beach166 ethnic groups52-3 52 e-sports environmental issues65-7,360-1 environmental hazards409-10 environment English-teaching work397 emergencies, embassies 386 electricity economy 12,43,49-50 337 Museum Early Printing E DPRK (DemocraticPeople’s of Republic Dosol-am Hermitage315 232 Dosan 153 Dora Observatory Dongnakdang 219 Donghwa-sa 206 32 Donghak Rebellion Donghae 195-6, Donggureung 152 Dongdaemun DesignPlaza&Park 108 Dongdaemun 108 Dolsan-do 273 Dolmen CulturalFestival 169-70 dolmen 170 dolharubang Doro(GhostRoad)289 Dokkaebi Dok-do 226 dogs 64,69 223-4, Dodong-ri DMZ 152-4,183,373-4, diving 81,294,298 430 DVDs 386 Duryunsan ProvincialPark 274-5 licence403 driving 71-3,361 drinks water410 drinking 000 000 front cover South Korea 63-7 Korea 360-1 North useful phrases414 South Korea 390 Korea 381 North Korea),

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (D-G) INDEX see 288 see also insidefrontcover North Korea North 195 224 see also 123

inside fish 69 films 17, film festivals 408 filariasis festivals 17,390-1 fax services F North Korea 353, 360,368 North history 33,37,43 culture 58 Busan 237 Pusan InternationalFilm Festival Puchon InternationalFantastic InternationalFilmJeonju Festival Yeoui-do CherryBlossomFestival Festival 342 Arts World Martial Festival 119 Arts Performing Seoul HerbMarket Medicinal Seoul & InternationalCartoon Seoul Festival Fringe Seoul 119 Drum FestivalSeoul 119 Pusan International Film Festival Puchon InternationalFantastic RockFestivalPentaport 164 Namdo FoodFestival 270-1 LanternFestivalNam River 256 FireflyMuju Festival 313 Lotus LanternFestival 107 FestivalKimchi 267 Daeje119 Festival Parting Jin-do Sea 277 InternationalFilmJeonju Festival Incheon BupyeongPungmul Festival Seoul 119 Hi Gwangju Biennale266 Festival Azalea 170 Ganghwa-do Dolmen CulturalFestival 169-70 Dano Festival 189,391 Chinese DayCulturalFestival 164 FestivalBoryeong Mud 17,332, Baekje CulturalFestival 325 DanceFestivalAndong Mask 229 South Korea 394 Korea 382-3 North (Busan) 17,245,391 Film Festival 119 309 119 Festival 119 Animation Festival 119 (Busan) 17,245,391 Film Festival 119 309 Festival 164 391, 125 124 , see also cinema food 68-71,391, Museum Folklore &NaturalHistory folk villages flu 408 Free Market 144, Free Market fortresses foreign exchange393 Gangneung Seongyojang 187 Seongyojang Gangneung 185-9, Gangneung 274 CeladonMuseum Gangjin 274 Gangjin 170 Ganghwa-eup 169-71 Ganghwa-do FermentedGanggyeong Seafood 253 Gangguan 177 Gangchon 214 Gampo-ri galleries ProvincialParkGajisan 252-3 G 288 Yangdong FolkVillage218-19 FolkVillage295 Seongeup Nagan FolkVillage270-1 Korean FolkVillage158 FolkVillage295 Jeju FolkVillage231 Hahoe Andong FolkVillage228-9 Sangdang Sanseong337 315 Moyang Fortress 255-6 Jinju Fortress Sanseong313 Jeoksang Hwaseong 156, Gongsanseong 325 239,241 Fortress Geumjeong Busosanseong 328-9 Korea 361 North local specialities72 290 Jeju-do 20, itineraries festivals 73 customs 74-5 courses 117 Busan 246 Festival 391 265 Uijae Misulgwan 109 ofArt Museum Seoul walk115-17, galleries art Seoul Leeum of SamsungMuseum & Gallery Lee Art Jung-Seop 367 Gallery Korean NationalArt 116 110 Art Park 297 6 6 20 , 186 7 126 , 127 INDEX 259 303 192 431 341 197

316 8 , 7 INDEX (G-H) 312 315 180-1 269 233 314 324 232 13, 347 343 316-17, 183-4, Seoraksan National Park Samaksan 177 315-16, Seonunsan Provincial Park Juwangsan National Park 232-4, Juwangsan National Park 311-12 Maisan Provincial Park 311 Moaksan Provincial Park 265 Mudeungsan Provincial Park 314-15, Naejangsan National Park Namsan 214, 215 191-2, Jeju-do 286 260, 270, National Park 269-70, Jogyesan Provincial Park 303-4, Hallasan National Park Duryunsan Provincial Park 274 Duryunsan Provincial Park 323-4, Gyeryongsan National Park Chiaksan National Park 197, Chiaksan National Park 311 Daedunsan Provincial Park 312- Deogyusan National Park 346-7, Sobaeksan National Park 340, Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park 196 Provincial Park Taebaeksan Ulleung-do 225 277 Wolchulsan National Park 343-4, Woraksan National Park North 352-7 Korea North 381 Korea 392 South Korea Bukaksan 108 Bukhansan 151-2 National Park Busan 239, 241 National Park Byeonsan Bando Historic of Geoje POW Camp 258 Park history 25-46 hitching 403-4 HIV 408 holidays homestays 386 Homigot 221 Hi 119 Seoul Festival hiking 82, 83 Heuksan-do 281 Heuksan-do Heyri 154-5, 303 199 236 212 , 8 150 210-11 244 40 34, 411 84 61 57, 59, 106, 386 45, 60 254, 258 useful phrases 414 Bokduam Hermitage 219 Boriam 257 Dosol-am Hermitage 315 Namsan 215 Seonam-sa 269 Hermitage 160 Yeongworam 145 324 accommodation 215-16 accommodation drinking 217 entertainment 217 food 216-17 sights 209, 212-14 tourist offices 209 tours 214 H Haein-sa 207 Haenggung 156 Haenyeo 295 Haenyeo Museum 295 194, Haesindang Park Haeundae 242, 231 Hahoe Mask Museum 231 288 Halla Arboretum 303-4, Hallasan National Park 303 Hallim Park Hallyeo Maritime National Park Hallyeosu-do cable car 254 hallyu halmoni hangeul hanok Hanok Maeul 307 hapkido Haslla Art World 190 health 406-10 hepatitis (A & B) 408 Herbal Medicine Market (Daegu) 204 hermitages Gyeong-dong MedicinalGyeong-dong Market Herb Gyeonggi-do 149-61, Gyeonggijeon 308 107 Gyeonghuigung 208-18, Gyeongsangnam-do 235-60, 323-4, Gyeryongsan National Park Gyeongju National Museum 209, 212 Gyeongpo Beach 187 187 Gyeongpodae Pavilion 198-234, Gyeongsangbuk-do 7 173 Kim Il-sung 370 263 326 see parks & gardens see 84 accommodation 266 entertainment 267-8 food 266-7 sights 263-6 179, 182 Gwangju 262-8, Gwangju Biennale 17, 266, 391 391 Gwangju Festival Gwangju National Museum 263-4 Gyeongbokgung 106 green tea 72, 273, 274 green Guin-sa 346-7 Guksa-dang 109 287 Gwandeok-jeong Gwanghallu-won Garden 313 Gwanghwamun 105-7 Gwangjang Market 132, Gosu Donggul 344-5 government 46 Study House 366-7 Grand People’s Grandma Bbong 277 Leader, Great Gangwon-do 172-97, geography 63 Geoje-do 257-8 Geumjeong Fortress 239, 241 Geumsan 327 Geumsan-sa 311 giardiasis 409 gicheon National Museum 325 Gongsanseong 325 goral 344 dynasty 28-9 170 Goryeongungji Palace Goseong Unification Observatory Gatbawi 206 Gatbawi Rocks 279 391-2 gay travellers 140, Sherman General 391 Gimje Horizon Festival Gimnyeong Beach 292 Gimnyeong Maze 292-3 Gimnyeong Sailing Club 292 Gimpo International Airport 146 ginseng 327 Girim-sa 214 Glass Castle 303 Gochang 315 golf 81-2, 301, 371 Golgul-sa 214 Gongju 324-7, Gapa-do 302 Gap-sa 324 gardens, INDEX internet resources 18 internet access Exhibition International Friendship insurance bites 409-10 insect influenza (flu)408 independence 39 149,161-71, Incheon-gwangyeok-si 145-6 Incheon InternationalAirport Incheon BupyeongPungmul Festival Incheon 161-6, IntangibleCulturalAsset Important immigration Iho Beach289 Igidae 241 Icheon CeramicVillage160-1 Icheon 160-1 83 ice skating I Hyangiram 273 hyanggyo Hwaseongul 194 Hwaseong 156, Hwaeom-sa 270 40 House ofSharing &spas82-3,84 hot springs Center111 Art Horim Hongjodangoe HaebinBeach294 Hong-do 281 432 000 000 cinema 58 399 air tickets South Korea 392 Korea 381 North (IFE) 374-5 vehicle 403 travel 392 health 406 150 17, 164 Training Center279 South Korea 398 Korea 384 North 114 Seoul Osaek 184 309 Jeonju Icheon 161 234 Deokgu Daejeon 321 Daecheon Beach331 Busan 241-2

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (H-L) INDEX 309 162 156 , 7 itineraries 19-24, itineraries Inwangsan 109 Jogye-sa 106-7 Jogye-sa jjimjilbang NationalParkJirisan 258-60,270, Jinnamgwan 272 255-6 Jinju NationalMuseum 255-6 Jinju Fortress Jinju BullfightingFestival 391 Jinju 255-7, Jindogae dogs64 Jin-do 276-7 Jikji-sa 207-8 Jikji 340 265 Jeungsim-sa jet lag407-8 Korean PaperJeonju Institute 308 InternationalFilmJeonju Festival 309 Hyanggyo309 Jeonju 307-9 HanokMaeul Jeonju 309 Gaeksa Jeonju 306-11, Jeonju jeongsik 330 Jeongnimsaji jeongnang 189-90 Jeongdongjin Pokpo297 Jeongbang CatholicChurch308 Jeondong 170 Jeondeung-sa 261-81, Jeollanam-do 305-17, Jeollabuk-do &Museum Shrine Martyrs’ Jeoldusan Sanseong313 Jeoksang 225 Jeodong-ri 286-92, Jeju-si Gwana287 Jeju-Mok 282-304, Jeju-do 288 ofArt Museum Jeju Loveland289 Jeju FolkVillage295 Jeju Park 302 Art Jeju 229 Jebiwon Japanese Bencephalitis408 Japan, relations with36-41,352-3 244,246 Jagalchi Fish Market 279 Jade Museum J Seoul 88 Seoul Korea 352 North history 41,45 health 407 food 69,71,73 environmental issues65 110 70-1 gates297 82,84,114, 202-3,388 255 286 307 283 19-24 , 306 262 6 259 Juwangsan NationalPark 232-4, Jusangjeolli Rocks300 Jungnim Oncheon309 300-1 Jungmun Resort Jungmun 300 107-9, Jung-gu Jung-do 174 253 Jungang LiveFish Market Jumunjin CuttlefishFestival 391 Juche 366 Area) 152-4 Security JSA (Joint dynasty30-3,34 105-7, Jongno-gu Jongmyo Daeje17,119 Jongmyo 107 152-4 Area (JSA) Joint Security Jogyesan ProvincialPark 269-70, Kring GumhoCulture Complex111, Kring Korean Wave Korean War33,41-3,353-4 Korean Wall374 367 Museum Korean Revolution 367 Gallery Korean NationalArt Korean FolkVillage158 Museum Korean CentralHistory FairKorea InternationalArt 119 FestivalKimchi 267 kimchi Young-sam44 Kim Jong-il13,355,356, 376-7 Kim Il-sungSquare 366-7 Kim Il-sung41,353-4, 355,369 Kim 44 Dae-jung Kim 83,176 kayaking 372-3 Kaesong K left luggage88 left 110 Leeum ofArt Samsung Museum Lee Myung-bak,President 13,45,46 &Park Gallery Lee Art Jung-Seop lava-tube caves292,303 language 411-17 land reclamation 66 L Church109 Kyungdong Presbyterian PalaceKumsusan Memorial 365 Kumgangsan 375-6 321 Kumdoriland 367, 368 297 Korea 366 North courses 117-18 125 68,71 (hallyu) 100-1 96-7 45,60 233 269 INDEX 433

INDEX (L-N) 258 367, 368 Art 110 Museum 369 Museum 279 Art (Gyeonggi-do) 159 Art, Deoksugung (Seoul)108 War Museum 367 69 314 Jade Museum 279 Jinju National Museum 255-6 Central HistoryKorean Museum RevolutionKorean Museum 367 Samsung Museum of Leeum Mangyongdae Revolutionary Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum of Africa 300 National Folk Museum 106 National Jeju Museum 288 National Maritime Museum 279 National Museum of Contemporary National Museum of Contemporary National Museum 110-11 of Korea Museum 106 National Palace National Science Museum 321 Museum 302 O’Sulloc Tea 367 Revolutionary Museum 379-80 Seoul Museum of Art 109 Seoul Olympic Museum 112 Shinyoung Cinema Museum 296 Sinchon Museum 378 Soju Museum 229 Sound Island Museum 300 Bear Museum 300 Teddy Tongdosa Museum 253 Traditional Wine Museum 308 Liberation Victorious Fatherland War Memorial Museum 111 34, 106 Haenyeo MuseumHaenyeo 295 Hahoe Mask Museum 231 Historic of Geoje POW Camp Park N N Seoul Tower 107 314-15, Naejangsan National Park Naeso-sa 316 music 60, 141-2 Muui-do 168-9 myeon Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral 109 (Queen Min)Myeongseong, Empress Myohyangsan 374-5 Mystery of Caves Exhibition 193 see inside

inside front inside front

see see also 278 387 cycling 244 244 Museum 187, 188 269 288 209, 212 Andong Folklore MuseumAndong Folklore 228-9 Museum 231 Andong Hanji Paper Busan Metropolitan Art Museum Busan Modern History Museum Buyeo National Museum 329-30 Central Buddhist Museum 106-7 Chamsori Gramophone & Edison Daegu National Museum 202 Damyang Bamboo Crafts Museum Early Printing Museum 337 & Natural History Folklore Museum 325 Gwangju National Museum 263-4 Gyeongju National Museum also front cover North 382 Korea 393 South Korea Liberation War 1950-3 Fatherland 367 cover 34, 106 North 382 Korea 394 South Korea Moyang Fortress 315 Mt Chilbo 378-9 265 Mudeungsan Provincial Park 313, 391 Festival Muju Firefly Muju Ski Resort 312 multiculturalism 52-3 Muryangsujeon 232 Muryeong, King 325 museums medicine, traditional 410 medicine, metric conversions, Mokpo Museum279 of Literature Mokpo Natural History Museum 279 Mokseogwon 289 money 14-15, 390, Monument to the Victorious Moran Hill 367 motion sickness 407-8 mountain biking 80-1, 313, Min, Myeongseong) (Empress Queen minbak Mineral 224 Spring Park 311 Park Moaksan Provincial mobile phones Mokpo 277-81, health 7 see also inside front 5

see also 6 see also Market 145 204 127 Busan 250 MarketFree 144, North 381 Korea 392-3 South Korea North 381 Korea 392 South Korea expat 60 modern 58-9 North 351-2, 360 Korea travel 16, 18 Seomun Market 201-2 Seoul Folk Flea Market 145 taekwondo Herbal Medicine Market (Daegu) MarketJagalchi Fish 244, 246 MarketJungang Live Fish 253 Nambu Market 309 MarketNoryangjin Fish 111-12, Gyeong-dong Medicinal Herb Gwangjang Market 132, cover May 18 Memorial 264-5 Park May 18th Massacre 265 May 18th National Cemetery 264 May Day Stadium 371 386, measures Mara-do 302 markets Maebongsan 110 Maengbang Beach 195 Magok-sa 327-8 311-12 Maisan Provincial Park Mangyongdae 369 367 Mangyongdae Palace Children’s Manisan 170 Manjanggul 292 Manseong-ni Beach 272 Mansudae Grand Monument 365 maps M leptospirosis 408 140, 391-2 lesbian travellers literature 112-13 Lotte World Amusement Park 107 Lotus Lantern Festival lyme disease 408 legal matters martial arts 83-4, 342, 391 Mask Dance Festival Mass Games 359, 371, medical services 408, INDEX national &provincialparks64-5, 225 Nari-bunji Namwon 313 Namsangol HanokVillage107-8 107 Namsan (Seoul) Namsan (Gyeongju)214,215 Nampo 377-8 Hall279 Namnong Memorial Namhan SanseongProvincialPark 160 257 Namhae-do Namdo FoodFestival 17,270-1 Namdaemun 108, 309 Nambu Market LanternFestivalNam River 256 Naksan-sa 182 Naksan ProvincialPark 182 Naksan Beach182 Nagan FolkVillage270-1 434 000 000 Deogyusan NationalPark 312- Daedunsan ProvincialPark 311 Dadohae HaesangNationalPark Chungcheongnam-do 319 Chungcheongbuk-do 336 Chiaksan NationalPark 197, Cheongnyangsan ProvincialPark Byeonsan BandoNationalPark NationalPark 151-2 Bukhansan see also Maisan ProvincialParkMaisan 311-12 Juwangsan NationalPark 232-4, Jogyesan ProvincialPark 269-70, NationalParkJirisan 258-60, 262 Jeollanam-do 306 Jeollabuk-do National Park Hallyeo Maritime Hallasan NationalPark 303-4, Gyeryongsan NationalPark 323-4, Gyeongsangnam-do 237 Gyeongsangbuk-do 199-200 173 Gangwon-do ProvincialParkGajisan 252-3 Duryunsan ProvincialPark 274-5

Map pages Map Photograph pages 13, 281 232 316-17, 233 269 270, 254, 258 324 INDEX (N-P) INDEX 312 parks &gardens 259 316 121 197 303 North Korea 348-84, North newspapers 54,386 National Centre forKorean Folk Seoraksan NationalParkSeoraksan 182-5, ProvincialParkSeonunsan 315-16, Palgongsan ProvincialPark 206-7, Odaesan NationalPark 191-2, Namhan SanseongProvincial Naksan ProvincialPark 182 Naejangsan NationalPark 314-15, ProvincialParkMudeungsan 265 Moaksan ProvincialPark 311 toilets 383 382-3 telephone services solo travellers382 refugees 374 382 postal services population 358-9 photography 382 nuclear testing12,45-6 money 382 military 357 maps 381 legal matters381 language 366 internet resources 352 internet access381 holidays 381 history 352-7 film 360,368 embassies &consulates381 353 documentaries disabilities, travellerswith383 dangers &annoyances380-1 customs 380 culture 357-60 costs 350 climate 349-50 children, travelwith380 accommodation 380 313 Arts Traditional Performing Yeonhwasan ProvincialPark 237 Woraksan NationalPark 343-4, Wolchulsan NationalPark 277 Taebaeksan ProvincialPark 196 Taean HaeanNationalPark 333-4 Songnisan NationalPark 340-1, Sobaeksan NationalPark 346-7, 180-1 315 206 Park 160 314 341 347 , 8 349 192 343 Noryangjin Fish Market 111-12, Noryangjin Fish Market opening hours388-9, ondol Olympic Park 112 219 Oksan Seowon 185-7 Ojukheon 170-1 Oepo-ri 297-8 Oedolgae 281 Oedal-do Odong-do 271-2 Odaesan NationalPark 191-2, observatories O nuclear testing45-6,355 nuclear power66 Tombs209 Noseo-dong O-World 321 O-World O’Sulloc Tea 302 Museum opera, Korean 62 palaces Pakyon Falls 373 Paju BookCity154-5 painting 60-1 Paekdusan 376-7 Pacific Land300 P parks &gardens, Park ChanHo51,324 parasites 410 Panmunjom 152-3,373-4 Palgongsan ProvincialPark 206-7, women travellers383 visas 383 travel within384 travel to/from383-4 tours 350-1 Wolmi Observatory 163 Wolmi Observatory 154 Odusan UnificationObservatory Goseong UnificationObservatory 153 Dora Observatory 183 Cheorwon Peace Observatory 209 Cheomseongdae Observatory front cover Changdeokgung 105, Changdeokgung Kumsusan Memorial PalaceKumsusan Memorial 365 Gyeonghuigung 107 106 Gyeongbokgung Deoksugung 108-9, Changgyeonggung 107 Bullo-Dong TumuliBullo-Dong Park 202 Park 159-60 Anyang Art provincial parks 28 179, 182 see also see also 8 national & national 122

inside 192 127 206 INDEX 435 116 ,

293 123 115 296 126 90-104 INDEX (P-S) 8 , internet access 88 itineraries 89 medical services 88 shopping 143-5 sights 105-13 subway 147 tourist offices 89, 105 tours 118-19 travel to/from 145-6 travel within 146-8 walking tours 114-17, Animation Festival 119 Animation Festival 119 315 180-1 accommodation 119-20, 129-32 activities 113-14 cycling tour 113 dangers & annoyances 105 drinking 136-9 emergency services 88 entertainment 139-43 119 festivals food 132-6, Seoul Drum Festival 119 Seoul Drum Festival Seoul Folk Flea Market 145 118 Seoul Park Forest 119 Seoul Fringe Festival 159 Seoul Grand Park Seoul International Cartoon & Seoul Medicinal Herb Market Festival Seoul Museum of Art 109 Seoul Olympic Museum 112 Seoul Performing Arts 119 Festival Seoul Plaza 109 Seonunsan Provincial Park 315-16, Seonunsan Provincial Park Seonyu-do 317 113 Seonyu-do Park 182-5, Seoraksan National Park Seoul 86-148, Seolbong Park 160 Seolbong Park Seomun Market 201-2 Seonam-sa 269 Seongeup Village 295 Folk Seongnam-sa 252 Seongnyugul 234 Seongsan Ilchulbong 293-4, seafood 69 seafood Secret Garden 105 (Biwon) Sejong, King 34 390 senior travellers Seodaemun Prison History Hall 109-10 Seogwipo 296-300, Seokbul-sa 241 Grotto 213-14, 362-3 193 diving 333 see 60, 62 policy 33 (Busan) 17, 245, 391 (Busan) 17, 245, accommodation 369-70 accommodation drinking 370-1 entertainment 371-2 food 370-1 shopping 372 sights 365-9 travel within 372 Sajik Daeje 119 Sajo Ski Resort 342 Samaksan 177 Samcheok 192-4, Samcheok Beach 195 Samchung-sa 328-9 Samjiyon Grand Monument 377 Samneung 214 Gongwon 112 Samreung Samseonghyeol Shrine 288 samulnori Samyang Beach 292 Sangdang Sanseong 337 Sangju 257 Sangumburi 292 Sangwon-sa 191 Sapsi-do 332-3, scuba diving, 60-1 sculpture Sea World 113 S sadae R rabies 408 rafting 83, 176 Rajin 380 Northrefugees, 374 Korean 54-6, 359-60 religion travel 15, 352 responsible Revolutionary Museum 379-80 Rhee Syngman 41, 43, 297 road rules 403 Roh Moo-hyun 45 Ryongmun Big Cave 375 367 Ryongwang Pavilion Pungnam-mun 309 Pungnam-mun Festival Film International Pusan (Kumgangsan) 376 Pyohon Temple (Myohyangsan) 375 Pyohon Temple 361-72, Pyongyang Bell 367 Studios 368 Pyongyang Film Pyongyang Maternity Hospital 369 Pyongyang Zoo 368-9 Pyoseon Beach 296 8 national & 8 see hot springs & spas 220 see 249 itineraries Park 108 Park Park 297 Park North 358-9 Korea 50 South Korea North 382 Korea 393 South Korea Busan 241 118 Park Grand Children’s 309 Deokjin Park Plaza & Dongdaemun Design GardenGwanghallu-won 313 194, Haesindang Park provincial parks 119 Festival Seolbong Park 160 Seolbong Park 113 Seonyu-do Park 118 Seoul Park Forest 159 Seoul Grand Park Spirited Garden 302 209 Park Tumuli 190 Unification Park 209 Wolseong Park Botanical Garden 300 Yeomiji 279 Park Yudalsan North 382 Korea 393 South Korea see also May 18 Memorial 264-5 Park Mineral 224 Spring Park Mokseogwon 289 112 Olympic Park 279 Park Peace 194, Park Penis Halla Arboretum 288 Halla Arboretum 303 Hallim Park Haslla Art World 190 Jeju Art 302 Park Jung-Seop ArtLee Gallery & postal services pottery 61, 277 provincial parks, pojangmacha pollution 409 pool 85 population plants 64 Pohang 220-2, public baths, Film International Fantastic Puchon Party Founding Museum 367 passports 384, 398 164 Pentaport Rock Festival phonecards 394-5 photography planning 14-18, 390, INDEX Sunshine Policy44 sunmudo Suncheon-man 270 subway systems404 Suanbo 342-3 stings 409-10 STDs 409 52 StarCraft 260 Ssanggye-sa 50-2,359, sport 302 Garden Spirited 177-8 Soyang Lake 300 Sound IslandMuseum 219-20 Songseon-ri Songnisan NationalPark 340-1, Songgwang-sa 269 Songdo 163 Sonbong 380 solo travellers Sokcho 178-9, 229 Soju Museum soju social etiquette48 soccer 51,143,359,371 Sobaeksan NationalPark 346-7, 84-5,160,185,190-1,312,342 skiing Sinyang Beach294-5 Sinseon-sa 219-20 378 Sinchon Museum Road)289 Sinbiui Doro(Mysterious shrines shopping 393-4 296 Shinyoung CinemaMuseum 27-8 Shilla kingdom shamanism 55,359 seowon 436 000 000 sports South Korea 394 Korea 382 North 347 288 Samseonghyeol Shrine Samchung-sa 328-9 Jongmyo 107 Hyanggyo309 Jeonju 110 Shrine Martyrs’ Jeoldusan Inwangsan 109 fashion 145 144-5 electronics 143-4 &crafts arts antiques 143 72-3,229

Map pages Map Photograph pages 309 52 INDEX (S-T) INDEX 84 180-1 see also individual 341 sustainable travel15, taekwondo 51-2,83-4,107,114, Taejongdae Park 241 Taeha-ri 224 Taedonggang 361 Taedong 367 Gate Taebaeksan ProvincialPark 196 Taebaek 196 Taean HaeanNationalPark 333-4 T Suwon 155-8, Sutmaisan 311-12 temples temple stays388 telephone services Teddy 300 Bear Museum tea 72,273,274 taxis 404 Tap-sa 312 Tangent 111 Taekwondo Park 313 also Guin-sa 346-7 Golgul-sa 214 311 Geumsan-sa 324 Gap-sa Donghwa-sa 206 Daedun-sa 274 Cheongpyeong-sa 177-8 Buseok-sa 232 Bulyeong-sa 234 Bulguk-sa 213 111 Bong-eun-sa Bomun-sa 171 Bogyeong-sa 221 Beopju-sa 340 239 Beomeo-sa Baengnyeon-sa 313 Anguk-sa 313 Yakcheon-sa 300 Woljeong-sa 191 Songgwang-sa 270 328 Magok-sa 106-7 Jogye-sa Jikji-sa 207 170 Jeondeung-sa Hwaeom-sa 270 Haein-sa 207 Guin-sa 347 Golgul-sa 214 Bongeun-sa 113 54-5,239 Beomeo-sa South Korea 394-5 Korea 382-3 North martial arts martial 155 ,

7 see also GreenDex see tours, information395 tourist Tongyeong 253-4 253 Tongdosa Museum 252-3 Tongdo-sa tombs toilets tipping 73 time Exhibition368 Three Revolutions 26,150 Three Kingdoms Third InfiltrationTunnel 153 theatre 62,143 DMZ &JSA153-4 Daegu 203 Busan 245 Tumuli Park 209 325 Muryeong Tomb ofKing Kongmin373 Tomb ofKing Samreung Gongwon112 Tombs209 Noseo-dong Gyeonggi-do 152 Donggureung 152 Baekje RoyalTombs330 South Korea 395 Korea 383 North South Korea 395 Korea 383 North Korea 371 North Yaksaam 265 Yakcheon-sa 300 265 Wonhyo-sa Woljeong-sa 191 Unsu-sa 312 Unju-sa 268-9 Temple of theFloatingStone232 Tap-sa 312 260 Ssanggye-sa Songgwang-sa 269 252 Seongnam-sa 241 Seokbul-sa Sangwon-sa 191 Pyohon Temple (Myohyangsan)375 Pyohon Temple (Kumgangsan)376 Naksan-sa 182 316 Naeso-sa 327-8 Magok-sa 106-7 Jogye-sa Jikji-sa 207-8 265 Jeungsim-sa 330 Jeongnimsaji 23, itineraries Hyangiram 273 Hwaeom-sa 270 Haein-sa 207 see also boat trips, walking tours walking boattrips, 23 INDEX 437 123

122 167 7 102-3 24 271 INDEX (T-Z) 388 Jongmyo 107 Gongwon 112 Samreung Seokguram Grotto 213-14, 118 Grand Park Children’s O-World 321 Land 300 Pacific Pyongyang Zoo 368-9 Rajin-Sonbong 380 159 Seoul Grand Park Wonsan 377 Ganghwa-do 169 dolmen 152 Gyeonggi-do tombs Haein-sa 207 Hwaseong 155-6, itineraries 24, Bulguk-sa 213 Bulguk-sa Changdeokgung 105, Yeongworam Hermitage 160 Yeongworam 253-4 Yeonhwa-do 237 Provincial Park Yeonhwasan 271-3, Yeosu 119 Cherry Blossom Festival Yeoui-do Yi Sun-sin, Admiral 38, 272 Yongduam Rock 287-8 Yongpyong Ski Resort 190-1 Yongsan-gu 110-11, Yeomiji Botanical Garden 300 Yeomiji 277 Yeongam 166-8, Yeongjong-do 279 Park Yudalsan Seondo 276 Yun Hot Springs 321 Yuseong Z zoos Y 300 Yakcheon-sa 265 Yaksaam Village 218-19 Folk Yangdong yeogwan World Martial Arts 342 Festival World Cup Stadium (Seoul)World Cup 110 GamesWorld Cyber 52 World Heritage sites 343 rafting 116 , see 164 passports 115 275 internet resources inside front cover hiking

see also see see see Incheon 163-4, Seoul 114-17, North 349-50 Korea 389 South Korea Museum 367 North 382 Korea 393 South Korea North 383 Korea 395-6 South Korea North 383 Korea 396 South Korea W walking, walking tours Wan-do 275-6, War Memorial Museum 111 water, drinking 410 weather 14 websites, weights, West Sea Barrage 378 West Sea Islands 166-9 white-water rafting, vegetarian travellers 74 Liberation War Victorious Fatherland video systems visas 105, volunteering 396 Wi-do 316 63-4 wildlife 277 Wolchulsan National Park Woljeong-sa 191 Wolmi Observatory 163 Wolmido 163 209 Wolseong Park 56-7 women in Korea women travellers women’s health 410 Wonhyo-sa 265 Wonju 196-7 Wonsan 377 343-4, Woraksan National Park work 397 World Cup Stadium (Seogwipo) 298 223 8 hiking 370 see Pueblo North 381 Korea 392 South Korea 19, 153 accommodation 225-6 activities 225 drinking 226-7 food 226-7 sights 223-5 North 384 Korea 146, 404-5 South Korea Gyeongju 214 Gyeongju 164 Incheon North 350-1 Korea Seogwipo 298 Seoul 118-19 value added tax (VAT) 394 vacations V Unju-sa 268-9 Unsu-sa 312 USS UN Cemetery 244 190 Unification Park United Service Organizations 118- U-do 294 Uiam Lake 174 Uijae Misulgwan 265 Uljin 234 Ulleung-do 222-8, Ulsan Bawi 183, U trekking, Tripitaka 30, 170, 207, 208 Koreana Triumphal Arch 366 tuberculosis 409 209 Park Tumuli TV 53-4, 386 typhoid 409 typhus 409 Tower of Immortality 365 Idea 365-6 Tower of the Juche MuseumTraditional Wine 308 train travel 438 GreenDex GREENDEX

South Korea is taking steps to make itself a more environmentally friendly country (see p66 ). The following is an index of the local businesses, events and organisations that have been selected by Lonely Planet authors because they demonstrate a commitment to preserving or improving the natural environment, enabling greater cultural understanding and generally contributing towards sustainability. Among the listings you’ll find national parks, restaurants that specialise in organic produce, and hotels and other businesses that take into account the environmental impact of their operations and seek to minimise this. The index is not exhaustive but does provide a place to start for those who like to make informed choices in how they spend their holiday time and money. Choosing sustainable travel products, just like running a business that tries to be eco-friendly, is not an exact science and is also a continuous process. We know we haven’t got it 100% right yet! We very much welcome feedback on our selections via www.lonelyplanet.com/feedback as well as recommendations for anything that we should be including in this list the next time around. For more information on travelling responsibly see p15 and www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO GYEONGSANGBUK-DO Manjanggul 292 attractions accommodation Sangumburi 292 Sobaeksan National Park 346 -7, Hyangchon Sikdang-Minbak 233 Seongsan Ilchulbong 293-4, 293 347 attractions Yeomiji Botanical Garden 300 Songnisan National Park 340-1, Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park 341 232 JEOLLABUK-DO Woraksan National Park 343-4, 343 Golgul-sa 214 activities Haein-sa 207 Muju Firefly Festival 313 Jikji-sa 207 -8 CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO attractions Palgongsan Provincial Park 206-7, attractions Byeonsan Bando National Park 206 Cheollipo Arboretum 334 316-17, 316 food Gyeryongsan National Park 323-4, Daedunsan Provincial Park 311 Hyangchon Sikdang-Minbak 233 324 Deogyusan National Park 312-13, Sanchang-hoe Sikdang 227 Taean Haean National Park 333-4 312 Sukyeong Sikdang 217 325 Geumsan-sa 311 Yong Gung 226 -7 Hanok Maeul 307 Maisan Provincial Park 311-12 GANGWON-DO GYEONGSANGNAM-DO Moaksan Provincial Park 311 activities attractions Muju Ski Resort 312 Dano Festival 189 Beomeo-sa 239 Naejangsan National Park 314-15, attractions Gajisan Provincial Park 252-3 314 Chiaksan National Park 197 , 197 Hallyeo Maritime National Park 258 Seonunsan Provincial Park 315-16, Naksan Provincial Park 182 258-60, 259 315 Odaesan National Park 191-2, 192 Tongdo-sa 252 -3 Samaksan 177 Yeonhwasan Provincial Park 237 Seoraksan National Park 182-5, JEOLLANAM-DO 180-1, 8 activities Taebaeksan Provincial Park 196 JEJU-DO Songgwang-sa temple stay 270 activities attractions Jeju Olle 286 Bogil-do 276 GYEONGGI-DO & attractions Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea INCHEON-GWANGYEOK-SI Folklore & Natural History Museum Plantation 273 attractions 288 Daedun-sa 274 Heyri 154 -5, 7 Halla Arboretum 288 Expo 2012 Information Centre 272 GREENDEX 439

GREENDEX Exchange Center 117 Exchange Center Sogang University 117 Sogang University 118 YBM Sisa 118 Yonsei University 107-8 107-8 Hanok Village Namsangol 113 Seonyu-do Park 117 Seoul Culinary College 117 Yoo’s Family BestFriend & Culture Language courses, cooking courses, language 128 118 106 Centre City Hall & Seoul Plaza 109 City Hall & Seoul Plaza 106 Jogye-sa Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch Branch Society Korea Royal Asiatic 118 SeoulPark Forest 111 Bong-eun-sa 108 Bukaksan Culture Bukchon Traditional , 106 Cheong-gye-cheon attractions 112 Buddhist temple programs 113 Buddhist temple programs , 113 Han River cycling Hong-do 281 Hong-do 279 HistoryMokpo Natural Museum 265 Mudeungsan Park Provincial 279 National Maritime Museum 270 Suncheon-man 277 Park Wolchulsan National SEOUL activities 440 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Tollway Mall/Steps Australia (Head Office) Freeway Tunnel Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Primary Pedestrian Overpass Secondary Walking Tour %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Tertiary Walking Tour Detour [email protected] Lane Walking Trail Under Construction Walking Path Unsealed Road Track USA One-Way Street 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 TRANSPORT %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 Ferry Rail fax 510 893 8572 Metro Rail (Underground) [email protected] Cable Car, Funicular HYDROGRAPHY UK River, Creek Canal Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, Swamp Water London W12 7TQ Mangrove Mudflats %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 BOUNDARIES lonelyplanet.com/contact International Regional, Suburb State, Provincial Ancient Wall Disputed Cliff Marine Park AREA FEATURES Published by Lonely Planet Airport Land ABN 36 005 607 983 Area of Interest Mall Beach, Desert Market © Lonely Planet 2010 Building Park Campus Rocks © photographers as indicated 2010 Cemetery, Christian Sports Cemetery, Other Urban Cover photograph: Geumsan-sa, Korea, Topic Photo Agency/Age Forest Fotostock. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing POPULATION from Lonely Planet Images: lonelyplanetimages.com. CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) Large City Medium City All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored Small City Town, Village in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, SYMBOLS electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts Sights/Activities Drinking Information for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Beach Drinking Bank, ATM Buddhist Cafe Embassy/Consulate or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Hospital, Medical Castle, Fortress Entertainment Entertainment Information 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 Christian Shopping Internet Facilities Confucian Shopping Police Station Printed by 1010 Printing International, Hong Kong Islamic Sleeping Post Office, GPO Printed in China Monument Toilets Sleeping Geographic Museum, Gallery Camping Lighthouse Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Transport Point of Interest Lookout Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and Pool Airport, Airfield Mountain, Volcano Border Crossing in other countries. Ruin National Park Bus Station Skiing Pass, Canyon Cycling, Bicycle Path Picnic Area Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Parking Area River Flow commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Eating Petrol Station Shelter, Hut Eating Taxi Rank Waterfall Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR QUICK REFERENCE MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✆ buy books ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your HOW TO USE THIS BOOK BUSINESS HOURS soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right Sleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget order. Banks 9am-4pm Mon-Fri shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get ➷ ❀ ☛ ➟ For details of map symbols, see the Map Legend on the Post Offices 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a last page of this book. clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired Pubs & Bars 6pm-1am, longer hours Fri & Sat ✍ ✍ ☎ ✈ ✆ % telephone d double rooms share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books Restaurants 11am-10pm ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ✏ get DVDs ☞ plan h opening hours dm dorm beds ✓ ✆ ☞ ✂ ✈ ✎ Shops 10am-8pm adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys book flights scam n nonsmoking f family rooms the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ rooms/areas ondol Korean-style Exceptions are noted in specific listings. recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo available rooms safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ a air-con available q quad rooms TELEPHONE find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the i internet available r rooms plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost s swimming pool s single rooms To dial listings in this book from outside Korea, dial your ✎ ✄ ✉ ✩ ☺ ✍ international access code, the country code, the provincial love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read c child-friendly ste suites or city code and then the number. hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to b subway tr triple rooms mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up South Korea country code %82 apt apartments tw twin rooms ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield International access code %001 ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ ✈ ✎ ✩ ✍ English-speaking tourist advice %1330 meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear EXCHANGE RATES the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change Prices in this book are quotes in Korean won (W). Ambulance & fire %119 get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. Police %112 make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get ☺ ✍ ☎ ✈ ✆ Australia A$1 W1059 North Korea country code %850 inspired share a story read hotel reviews get advice (on everything) book flights buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan Canada C$1 W1084 adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ China RMB1 W170 PHRASES learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ Hello. annyeong hasimnikka (polite) get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise Euro zone €1 W1724 annyeong haseyo (informal) the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant Goodbye. annyeong-hi gyeseyo (to person staying)  $ ➷ Hong Kong HK$1 W150 annyeong-hi gaseyo (to person leaving) reviews book a bed spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat Japan ¥100 W1306 Please. yuseyo Thank you. gamsa hamnida ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get New Zealand NZ$1 W838 You’re welcome. gwaenchan seumnida advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ Yes. ye/ne ✉ ☞ ✓ ✆ ☞ ✂ Taiwan NT$1 W36 check warnings read hints plan adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle No. aniyo monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road- UK UK£1 W1913 Excuse me. sillye hamnida trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate I’m sorry. mian hamnida ✈ ✎ ✩ ✍ How much is it? eolma yeyo? practise hippo safety cruise the savanna take better photos wear the right shoes, USA US$1 W1160 boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape CONVERSIONS ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a PRICE RANGES 1in = 2.54cm story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get Prices in this book include bathroom, all tax and service 1cm = 0.39in ☎ ❛ ✗ ✉ ☞ ✓ charges. Exceptions are noted in specific listings. DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan adventures make 1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get Sleeping Eating 1ft = 0.3m out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ 1km = 0.62 miles talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take Budget W150,000 >W18,000 1oz = 28g book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam (>W200,000 in Seoul) 1 imperial gallon = 4.55L ➠ ✗ ✍ 1L = 0.26 US gallons the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies 1 US gallon = 3.8L ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the 1L = 0.22 imperial gallons savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews LONELY PLANET INDEX  $ ➷ Litre of petrol W1800 book a bed spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides Litre of bottled water W600 Beer (500ml) W1500 lonelyplanet.com Souvenir T-shirt W10,000 Tteokbokki (spicy rice cake) W2000 Almost too much information 8TH EDITION USA $26.99 Published Apr 2010 For additional price information see Getting Started. First Published Apr 1988 UK £16.99

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