2013.1.4 11:50:8 AM Vol. 5 No. 4 5 No. Vol.

Winter 2012 Winter

Winter 2012 Vol. 5 No. 4

ISSN 2005-0151 ISSN ������������.indd 22-23 11 | 11

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Winter 2012 Vol. 5 No. 4

Cover

Black symbolizes winter. The symbolism originates from the traditional “five direc- tional colors” based on the ancient Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Korean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover design features Changdeok Palace. For more stories about the palace, see p. 44.

KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website (http://English.cha.go.kr) and smart devices.

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CHA News Vignettes Korean Folk Customs

Korean Empire Legation Building Repurchased Brazier and Winter Night’s Tales

The Cultural Heritage Administration and the National Trust for Cultural Heritage Prehistoric dwelling sites have traces of fireplaces, concluded the repurchase of the old legation building of the Daehan (Great ) which developed into braziers that were widely used Empire in Washington, D.C. on October 18. The Korean royal household bought before modern heating devices were invented. Most the building in 1891 but forcibly sold it to Japan for $5 in 1910. Adhering to the Korean homes used braziers called hwaro. They were as opinions of concerned experts and the local Korean community, the building will indispensible as kitchen hearths in heating houses and be used for publicizing Korean culture and the history of Korea-U.S. relations. cooking, as well as keeping embers alive, boiling water for tea or stews, preparing snacks, or heating an iron. The

braziers were diverse in material and size depending on Conference on Repatriation of Cultural Heritage usage, ranging from large cast iron braziers used in rooms Some 100 concerned experts met in Seoul on October 16-17 to discuss ways to and halls to small portable ones carried around in palanquins. Among the most increase international cooperation for the repatriation of cultural heritage. They common materials were cast iron, brass, crockery and talc. adopted the “Seoul Recommendation” to pursue legal, ethical and alternative measures concerning displaced cultural heritage. The Overseas Korean Cultural The warmth of braziers also helped fuse family bonds. During long winter nights, Heritage Foundation organized the conference with support from the Ministry of children enjoyed listening to stories told by their grandmother, sitting around a Foreign Affairs and Trade and the Korean National Commission for UNESCO. brazier and eating chestnuts or sweet potatoes freshly roasted in its fire.

Folk customs of bygone times suggest the practical and symbolic implications of World Heritage Forum Convened in Hwasun maintaining embers: the mother-in-law passed a brazier containing embers to her The World Heritage Forum Korea 2012 was convened on November 22-23 to seek daughter-in-law when a family changed hands for home keeping; and when a son policy measures and international cooperation for the sustainable preservation, moved out, the eldest son of the new household entered their new home ahead of management and utilization of World Heritage sites. Some 100 concerned experts, others, carrying a brazier with embers. In an upper-class home, the master would including local government officials responsible for management of World Heritage have a brazier placed near his guest to show hospitality, and in commoners’ homes sites, participated in the annual forum. The Cultural Heritage Administration jointly as well the elderly and the guest sat closer to a brazier. These age-old customs organized the forum in cooperation with South Jeolla provincial government and evolved into the common practice today of making gifts of matches or candles Hwasun County when visiting someone who has recently moved. 4 | 54

Winter 2012 Vol. 5 No. 4

CONTENTS

06 Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 22 Photo Gallery

Life in a Buddhist Temple Daegwan and Seonja Pass Covered in Snow Daily Routines of Monasticism Trekking Trails of Pristine Beauty

10 Special Report 30 Foreigner’s View

Mixing and Sharing Dongji, More Than Just a Short Day for Gourmet’s Pleasure

14 Human Heritage 34 Korean Heritage in the World

Warm Clothing for Everyone , the Most Korean Palace, Mun Ik-jeom Initiates Cotton Production and China’s Forbidden City

18 Modern Heritage 40 Intangible Heritage

Seungil Bridge in Cheorwon Dance in Korean Culture Witness to Tragic History of Division Arts of Dynamism amid Stillness Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 6 | 76

The quiet of the mountain monastery After the service everyone except those gives two contrasting feelings: slow with special assignments tidy up the Life in a Buddhist Temple and tense, empty and full. People seek temple. tension amid the slow pace of life in Daily Routines of Monasticism a mountain monastery, and fullness The second service, for offering amid its emptiness. The monks also breakfast to the Buddha, is conducted pursue dual tasks in their daily routine: at the hour of the snake, or around Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration they arise early and pay homage to the Photos by Lee Hyung-jun & Goodimage 10 a.m. Then the monks embark on Buddha, and then meditate, eat, and practice, their primary2 mission, which work, all the while trying to empty their is called jeongjin, or viriya in Sanskrit, minds and filling the void with the laws often interpreted as “pure progress” or

of the universe and nature, the smell “diligence.” Daily practice at seminaries 1. A tranquil night scene of of land and grass, and the sound of the generally consists of lectures and a temple covered in snow. wind. And to redeem the sentient beings discussions, while at Zen () centers with the life force thus acquired, they meditation is the only activity apart practice the way of the Bodhisattva. from brief meal breaks.

A Day in a Buddhist Temple Sutra copying is no longer widely In a Buddhist temple the day begins at performed, but it was a regular activity 3 a.m., as the altar-tending monk sets of monks at most temples in ancient out in pitch darkness, beating a wooden times. The historic Buddha’s teachings gong and loudly chanting a hymn to and discourses with disciples were awaken the community and cleanse the orally handed down for centuries. grounds before the morning service. Around the first century B.C. they began to be written in scriptures. The Apart from the ritual meaning of Sanskrit texts were introduced to China purifying the arena, the chanting 2. A monk sweeps snow symbolizes a call for all creatures in the from a temple courtyard. universe to shed illusions and unravel entanglements. Beginning with a faint whisper, the sound of the gong gradually builds up to a high pitch, trails off and then repeats the cycle in order to gently arouse the sentient beings rather than startle them. The patrol monk’s wooden gong gives way to the four percussion instruments at the music pavilion ― the Dharma drum, the great bell, the 1 wooden fish and the cloud plate. After all of them have been played, the monks who have gathered in the main worship hall begin their solemn morning service. 2 Pilgrimage to Buddhist Temples 8 | 98

3. Monks head to a worship an important part of monasticism. have developed from special delicacies 4. A monk’s dining bowl set. hall to conduct a service. The Sanskrit word for food, ahara, offered to the Buddha on the year’s first etymologically means “fetching” or full moon day at temples of the Silla “taking in something to sustain oneself.” Kingdom. In the early Buddhist monasteries, called sangha, food was not produced but Korean monks nowadays do not practice acquired through donations from the lay alms begging, while monks in most community. Monks were supposed to Southeast Asian countries maintain eat anything voluntarily provided by lay their time-honored tradition of making followers. Staples most often available the morning rounds to gather food were dried , rice cooked with bean provided by laymen, which began in 4 and barley, dried grain powder, meat, the early days of Buddhism in India. clear water, and a couple of side dishes. and cake; snacks such as plant twigs The Sanskrit word pindapata, meaning After the meal, the bowls are layered 3 and leaves, flowers, fruit, milk or honey arms gathering, is a compound of one atop the other and wrapped in a were also eaten. However, monks pinda, referring to “rice ball,” and pata, via Central Asia (Dunhuang, Gaochang, cloth. following the Mahayana school in later “to fall”; hence it means “dropping a Wujin and Kucha) along the Silk Road. years were taught to refrain from eating rice ball” in a monk’s begging bowl. They were actively translated into the “five pungent ,” such as The corresponding Sino-Korean Thousands of temples large and small Chinese, beginning around 167, after garlic, scallion, chive, leeks and hingu. word, takbal, literally means “relying nestle on scenic mountains throughout the arrival of the Gandharan scholar- Meat and alcoholic beverages were on a [begging] bowl” for a living, Korea, many of them founded over a monk Lokaksema (Chinese name Zhi thousand years ago during the Three also forbidden as they were regarded as or mendicancy. In the early days of Loujiachen) in the Han Dynasty. The obstacles to a clear mind and the path Kingdoms to Unified Silla periods. Buddhist monasticism, monks were Chinese-language scriptures were to Buddhahood. Gradually, monastic Monks at these temples exert persistent required to live with a minimum of introduced to Korea and Japan, where life allowed for a minimum amount of efforts to maintain their age-old possessions and not participate in they were used as main texts until simple food. monastic traditions to safeguard the productive activities. Later in China, modern times. integrity of their faith as well as to the founders of the Chan (Zen) school preserve their timeless value as cultural In Korea, as the royal households revised monastic regulations to allow The evening service is conducted after and historic legacies. 5. Monks meditate. embraced Buddhism, temple food the community to engage in labor as a the monks have dinner. It begins with developed in harmony with palace food. means for earning food. the tolling of the bell and proceeds in But in more recent centuries, when more or less the same manner as the Buddhism was officially suppressed, At Korean Buddhist temples, the spirit morning service. But the bell is tolled the recipes of temple food were mostly of pursuing a simple and focused 33 times in the evening, while in the passed down by word of mouth within lifestyle represented by alms gathering morning it is struck 28 times. While the the Buddhist communities. Nowadays, continues in austere mealtime practices. morning service features tea offering materials and cooking methods differ Monks eat simple meals out of a set chants, the evening service is centered from region to region, or from temple to of wooden bowls, called baru (boyu on rituals venerating the five kinds of the temple, but meat and pungent vegetables in Chinese pronunciation), in silence. Buddha-body of reality, or dharmakaya. are not used anywhere. Traditional The name baru is a compound of an Korean cookies, such as the deep-fried abbreviation of the Sanskrit word patra Dietary Routine in Buddhist Temples honey cookies (yakkwa) and grain and the Chinese letter yu, meaning a As communal life itself is practice, cookies (yumilgwa), as well as the sweet bowl. A set of baru consists of four to the dietary routine is regarded as rice with nuts and jujubes (), six bowls of varying sizes for rice, soup, 5 Special Report 10 | 1110

Eating from the Same Pot 2 Mixing and Sharing Koreans share food at the table in a rather unique manner: everyone Bibimbap for Gourmet’s Pleasure eats side dishes from the same plates and bowls instead of taking personal portions before eating. Most foreigners, Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration especially Westerners, find this custom Photos by Goodimage unfamiliar. However, Koreans have traditionally believed that sharing food means sharing one’s heart with others. 2 Hence they favor an intimate way of Mixing and sharing are two important sautéed minced , shredded grain The oldest known text on bibimbap 1. Bibimbap served in hot sharing. In Korean the word uri often stone pot. keywords that describe the dietary jelly, parboiled and seasoned mung is a late 19th century cookbook, titled means “I” instead of “we” and “our 2. Sinseollo, also called habits of Koreans. Our ancestors loved bean sprouts and hot chili sauce, and Sieui jeonseo, written by an anonymous house” actually refers to “my house.” yeolgujatang, meaning to eat mixed foods. For example, rice yeolgujatang (or sinseollo), a hot pot of author. In this book, bibimbap is referred “mouth-pleasing stew,” The Korean word sikgu or siksol, is a hot pot of beef in soup (tangban, or ), a one- beef brisket, pan- and assorted to as goldongban as well as bubuimbap, meaning “family members,” connotes brisket, fish and various bowl meal of rice mixed in hot soup, vegetables, boiled together in beef the former a Sino-Korean word and vegetables, cooked in a psychological bond stemming from beef stock. Dumplings remains one of the most favored comfort . Mixed foods are eaten in many the latter a pure Korean word, but both sharing the same pot. The warmhearted and may be also foods of Koreans today. No less popular countries, but are hardly as varied as meaning the “rice mixed with various added, depending on affection, called jeong, has long been a personal taste. are bibim guksu, noodles mixed with those in Korea. ingredients.” pillar of Korean society and culture.

Goldongban of Korea, Gudongfan of The time-honored food sharing tradition China of Koreans remains vividly alive in the custom of sharing food offerings after Sieui jeonseo describes the recipe of ancestral rites. Family members partake bibimbap: “Cook rice neatly; pan-fry of food and liquor on the ancestral altar beef liver and manyplies, and cut into after completing memorial rites, an thin slices; sauté assorted vegetables; important ritual procedure symbolizing a deep-fry kelp and smash; mix rice with spiritual communion with dead ancestors all the prepared ingredients, sprinkle and consolidating bonds between family roasted and ground sesame seeds mixed members. with salt, and ; mix everything together; pan-fry egg whites and yolk Bibimbap, a colorful and delectable dish, separately, cut in small diamond shapes; epitomizes the mixing and sharing of julienne and marinate beef, form small Korean food culture. Warm white rice balls, dust with flour, coat with egg surrounded with colorful toppings of batter, and fry in oil on a pan; put the assorted vegetables, strips of fried egg mixed rice in a serving bowl and whites and yolk, ginkgo fruit, pine nuts with pan-fried egg whites and yolk, and and chestnuts, are all mixed together meat balls; serve with medley soup.” before eating. This can easily break down barriers between strangers and China also has mixed rice with the 1 help connect with each other. same name but differently pronounced Special Report 12 | 1312

eaten in the fields during planting and country. Andong bibimbap is based on soy sauce before eating. It is also called harvesting seasons; others believe it ritual offerings handed down through Haeju gyoban, meaning the “stirred rice evolved from late dinners eaten after ancestral ceremonies of local aristocratic of Haeju,” and is eaten with clean radish ancestral rites, where family members families, while the bibimbap of Geoje soup. shared rice mixed with assorted side Island contains pickled sea urchin that is dishes prepared as ritual offerings; rarely seen in other regional versions. Healthy and Nutritious Food still others assert the dish was created Bibimbap is not only visually appealing during wartime when the evacuated Let’s take a look at the three most but nutritionally beneficial as well. It is king was served a simple meal of rice famous types of bibimbap. Jeonju a healthy food rich in fiber and vitamins 3 mixed with several vegetables due to a bibimbap typically contains a lot of bean but low in calories, with grain, acidic shortage of food supply; and yet others sprouts. Rice is cooked in beef stock 3. A dining table of as gudongfan. Therefore, some say meat and alkaline greens striking a conjecture the king’s snack eaten in made by boiling an ox head, and soy heotjesatbap, which bibimbap originated in China. The harmonious balance. Dr. Sam Rehnborg, resembles a ritual table palace developed into a popular dish. bean sprouts are added at the end to be from Andong region. ancient text Zixue jiyao (Essential president of the Nutrilite Health Institute There also are views that bibimbap cooked lightly while rice is steamed. Phonetics) contains a recipe for in the United States, has said bibimbap was devised to dispose of leftover food The cooked rice is mixed with beef is “a nutritionally perfect food in being gudongfan, which says, “Steam rice on the last day of the year, or that the shreds, spinach, crown daisy, fern brake, a rich source of carbohydrates, minerals with various ingredients, including Donghak peasant soldiers began eating bellflower root, water parsley, shiitake and protein.” It is regrettable that meat and fish, put inside.” A Ming rice mixed with side dishes during mushroom, and red chili paste more than bibimbap is gradually losing its place Dynasty classic, Gudong shisan shuo their rebellion in the late 19th century, three years old. Jeonju bibimbap is eaten in the dietary culture of Koreans. It is (Thirteen Comments on Antiques), because they didn’t have enough vessels with clear bean sprout soup, which is a an obligation of the current generation written by Dong Qichang, has a similar . tradition since the period. to revive and sustain this precious dish explanation. A 19th century Korean text, The oldest extant record on bibimbap Dongguk sesigi (Seasonal Customs in embodying admirable aspects of Korean is dated to the late 19th century, when Jinju bibimbap is relatively simple Korea), says, “People living south of food culture. the recipe was refined enough to and light. Mung bean sprouts are the river (Yangtze) cook a dish named 4. Jeonju bibimbap is be regarded as food of the nobility. added to steaming rice, instead of soy garnished with colorful panyoufan so well. It is rice cooked However, the differing views on its bean sprouts, and raw beef shreds are vegetables to be mixed before eating. with pickled fish, dried meat, raw fish origin suggest that Koreans began eating seasoned with chopped garlic, roasted and grilled meat, hence a mixed type of it much earlier. 5. Bibimbap in Jinju style and salted sesame seeds and sesame oil. features raw beef shreds. rice.” Rice is put in a brass bowl and carefully 6. Bibimbap in a modern Many Regional Varieties garnished with colorful ingredients and 4 fusion style has many as- In view of these records, Korea’s sorted young sprouts.. Bibimbap differs from region to region red chili paste, which looks so beautiful goldongban and China’s gudongfan are in material and cooking method. that the dish is also called hwaban, two different dishes, though they share Among the most famous regional meaning “flower rice.” Jinju bibimbap the same name. Koreans mix various varieties are those of Jeonju of the is usually eaten with beef soup cooked ingredients with cooked rice before southwestern province of Jeolla, with vegetables, ox blood and bean eating, while the Chinese mix rice with 5 Jinju of the southeastern province of paste. several ingredients before cooking. Gyeongsang, and Haeju of the central western province of Hwanghae, which Haeju bibimbap refers to rice cooked Differing Views on the Origin is now a part of . Andong together with winter cut into There are varied views on how Koreans in North Gyeongsang and Geoje Island small pieces in a pot greased with lard, began eating bibimbap. Some say it in South Gyeongsang also have their and then mixed with fine chicken strips, originated from farmers’ simple lunch own versions that are known around the plump soy bean sprouts and seasoned 6 Human Heritage 14 | 1514

Warm Clothing for Everyone Mun Ik-jeom Initiates Cotton Production

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Eurocreon & Goodimage

Cotton plant blooms twice a year, they saw commoners as well as bureaucrats say. First the flowers and next the cotton wearing clothing made of warm and balls blossom. Cotton balls open around durable fabrics. October, bursting forth the soft, fluffy 2 fibers that resemble white flowers. Mun recalled his fellow countrymen Cotton is ginned to separate fibers from lacking such practical clothing seeds, and the fibers are spun into yarn, materials. Back in , the majority which is used to weave a soft, breathable of people wore coarse outfits made from textile. Each ball contains three to five hemp fiber, or mulberry bark or kudzu packs of fibers connected in a single vines around the year, while a small strand that stretches about 1 kilometer. number of upper-class people could afford expensive silk garments to keep Envoy Smuggles in Cotton Seeds themselves warm in winter. Mun learned The use of cotton for fabric is believed to date back many millennia. The plant was domesticated around the fourth century B.C. in India and the 11th century during the late Song Dynasty in China. In Korea cotton began to be cultivated in the late 14th century, after Mun Ik-jeom (1329-1398), a scholar-official of the Goryeo Dynasty, brought back its seeds from a visit to 1. Cotton balls are open, Yuan China. Mun visited Yuan in 1363 revealing fluffy white fibers. as a member of a royal delegation, but was accused of collaborating with 2. A portrait of Mun Ik-jeom housed at a insurgents. He was sent into exile in memorial shrine erected Yunnan Province in southern China and at the place where he experimented cotton 1 2 1 lived there for three years. There he cultivation. Human Heritage 16 | 1716

3. Docheon Academy productivity of farming households. 5. A woman works at a founded in honor of Mun spinner to produce cotton Ik-jeom in his hometown King Sejong, who particularly yarn. in Sancheong County, encouraged cotton production, conferred South Gyeongsang Province. on Mun the posthumous title of Buminhu, meaning the “marquis of enriching people,” in reward for his contribution to the development of rural 5 economy. cultivation rather than in his clandestine Memorial Shrine and Academy transport of cotton seeds into the country. 5 Before his endeavor, most Koreans In Mun’s hometown at Sinan-ri, Sinan- had lived in hemp cloths throughout myeon, Sancheong County, a memorial 3 the four seasons. Hemp felt cool in the shrine was erected in 1461, with a summer but was of little help in fending that people in Yunnan cultivated cotton crop. But it didn’t mean they could sign personally written by King Sejo. off the cold of winter even with grass and produced textiles from its fibers, and begin ginning, spinning and weaving The shrine was burned down during or fur linings. Mun’s efforts changed that taking the plant out of the country immediately. It took another round of the Japanese Invasions of 1592-1598. the clothing of the majority of people was strictly prohibited. As the time dedicated efforts by the two men to It was rebuilt and expanded into a so they would no longer live in thin, neared for him to return to Korea, Mun devise the necessary equipment and royally chartered Confucian academy ragged clothes. Thus, he has been widely searched for a way to bring back cotton obtain the needed technology. A Chinese named Docheon Seowon. King Jeongjo respected by Koreans over the centuries. seeds. He succeeded in secretly carrying monk staying at Jeong’s house assisted wrote its sign. Mun’s descendants still home some seeds inside the lid of a them. continue to conduct memorial rites at Moreover, cotton production that had the shrine on the first day of every lunar writing brush. begun under Mun’s initiative contributed month, with cotton offered on the ritual From Mun’s hometown in the significantly to the national economy First Site of Cotton Cultivation table. mountainous county of Sancheong, during the succeeding Joseon Dynasty. As a result of arduous efforts exerted presently of South Gyeongsang Unlike the processing of hemp stalks over the next several years, Mun Province, the cotton growing and that required a lot of male labor, cotton succeeded in growing cotton. He weaving technology spread across the ginning and spinning was done mostly managed to salvage just a single shrub country. In this sense, Mun and Jeong by women and consequently increased in the first year. Then with the help of were great scientists who contributed to the introduction and cultivation of 6. First Cotton Cultivation his father-in-law, Jeong Cheon-ik, who Field in Sancheong was well versed in farming, another cotton, nationwide dissemination of its (Historic Site No. 108) three years were needed to acquire the seeds and manufacturing of cotton fabric knowledge and skill to grow a cotton and clothing in Korea. The place where they experimented and succeeded in 4. Cotton fibers before being spun into yarn. cotton cultivation in Sancheong County has been designated Historic Site No. 108.

Revolution in Clothing Mun’s historic contribution rests in the 4 settlement and dissemination of cotton 6 Modern Heritage 18 | 1918

Seungil Bridge in Cheorwon

Witness to Tragic History of Division Three feet high a huge rock rises in the middle of the river. / Up the risky cliff crawling like a squirrel, / I gaze down at the river, knowing not where to go. / Ah, here upon ending war the soldiers washed their rifles and bayonets. Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Eurocreon & Simong Agency

The famous poet Yi Eun-sang (1903- 1. Seungil Bridge on the Hantan River bears 1982) composed this poem while witness to the tragedy of passing by a solitary pavilion standing national division. on the scenic riverside. The Lone Stone Pavilion (Goseokjeong), in Jangheung- ri, Dongsong-eup, Cheorwon County, Gangwon Province, is believed to have been built by King Jinpyeong of Silla in the early seventh century. Later, King Chungsuk of the Goryeo Dynasty is said to have enjoyed strolling around the pavilion. What struck the poet were not these episodes of ancient kings, however. He recalled the nation’s recent past of territorial division and bloody internecine conflict.

2 Goseokjeong and its surroundings are among the most scenic spots in Cheorwon, a highland county just south of the Demilitarized Zone dividing the two . The area is a popular site for boating and angling these days. However, in the late 9th to the 10th centuries when Unified Silla was waning amid the rising power of local gentry, Cheorwon emerged as the capital of Later , also called Taegong, a short-lived state founded by the rebel leader Gungye, a prince of Silla, to succeed Goguryeo. There are also 1 records that in the mid-15th century, Modern Heritage 20 | 2120

would later found the Goryeo Dynasty. frame by the South Korean Army. In people by taking advantage of military Though a bloody battleground again a December 1958, the South Korean sagas. Yet, the scenery around the half century ago during the , government completed the bridge with bridge remains as picturesque as ever. the area is now shrouded in peaceful a ferroconcrete structure, resulting in The bridge silently straddles the river, serenity. A couple of placards calling an odd combination of construction probably waiting for the day when the for government support for the local methods in a single bridge. nation is reunified. farming industry and opposing a plan 4 4 for dam construction on the river adds Built by the Two Koreas Registered Cultural Heritage a little vigor to the otherwise bucolic Seungil Bridge connects Jangheung-ri Seungil Bridge is no longer used. An 4. A stone sign for Seungil scenery. Bridge. in Dongsong-eup and Munhye-ri in “Off Limits” sign went up two years 2 Galmal-eup today, its name connoting Seungil Bridge is 35 meters high, 120 ago, when a new steel bridge opened the pains of national division. There 2. Goseokjeong, meaning during the reign of King Myeongjong of meters long and 8 meters wide. Before nearby. On May 31, 2002, the bridge the Lone Stone Pavilion, the Joseon Dynasty, the famous brigand are two explanations why its present earned the title of Registered Cultural is a scenic rock standing the bridge was built, crossing the river name, Seungilgyo (昇日橋), differs from Property No. 26, in recognition for its along the Hantan River. leader Im Kkeok-jeong commanded his was impossible for over 10 days every what was said when its construction historical significance. A rare modern band of righteous thieves from a stone summer when the river rose to submerge began, Hantangyo. First, when the architectural monument combining house across the river, robbing tributary its simple footbridges made of stone or items to relieve the needy suffering South Korean Army completed the ferroconcrete and Rahmen arch pine wood. The construction of Seungil under corrupt bureaucrats. construction, the bridge is said to have structures, the bridge embodies scars of Bridge started in August 1948, when the been renamed Seungilgyo (承日橋), a division and war that strikes a chord in region was under North Korea’s control, Witness to Bloody Conflict combination of the middle character viewers even more acutely because of to connect the northern and southern of the founding presidents’ names of the pristine natural scenery around. The Leaving behind Goseokjeong and parts of Cheorwon town bisected by the the two Koreas: the South’s Yi Seung- bridge’s top plate is cracked so severely the legendary site of a Korean Robin river for military transportation. The man (李承晩, Syngman Rhee) and the along the joints that the river below can Hood’s stronghold and driving upstream design was done by Kim Myeong-yeo, North’s Kim Il-sung (金日成). Second, it be seen. Someday, the bridge should 5. The new steel bridge along the river lined with precipitous a teacher at Cheorwon Agricultural stands next to Seungil is said the first letter seung was changed be renovated using more harmonious Bridge, which is no longer cliffs on both sides, one will find a School, who had designed the chimney when a granite stele was erected in technology. in use. lonely bridge perched perilously over for Jinnampo Smelting Works during memory of Colonel Kim Seung-il (金 the river. Seungil Bridge bears witness the colonial period. Russian-style 昇日), a graduate from the first class of to a tragic page of modern Korean European technology was employed for the Korea Military Academy, who died history, which echoes the pathetic last construction. a heroic death near the bridge while years of Gungye, who named the river advancing northward during the Korean Hantangang, meaning the “River of Local seniors remember that residents of War. The monument was set up on Lamentation,” when crossing it to flee Cheorwon and Gimhwa counties were October 1, 1985, in commemoration from the army of Wang Geon, who forcibly mobilized for five-day shifts of the Armed Forces Day under the

3. The bombed-out shell to build the bridge. When the Korean initiative of the commander of the Fifth of the former Cheorwon War broke out in June 1950, the bridge ROK Army. office of the North Korean Workers’ Party is a rem- was half completed with two piers nant of the Korean War. installed to support the northern portion. The confusing explanations on the Construction was suspended with the bridge’s name aside, the imposing withdrawal of North Korean troops, structure brings back memories of the leaving the southern portion to be past military dictatorship that attempted 3 supplemented with a temporary wooden to encourage patriotism among the 5 Photo Gallery 22 | 2322 23

Daegwan and Seonja Pass Covered in Snow Trekking Trails of Pristine Beauty

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Topicphoto Agency & Goodimage Photo Gallery 24 | 2524 25

Pyeongchang in winter turns into snow country. The pristine winter scenes of the mountainous county in Gangwon Province draw people from across the country. Daegwallyeong, or the Daegwan Pass, where northerly winds rage, is an especially popular destination. Those who crave even colder and fiercer winds go trekking the ridge trail stretching from Daegwallyeong to Seonjaryeong pass. Photo Gallery 26 | 2726 27

The ridge trail from Daegwan to Seonja pass adorned with fresh snow blossoms is among the most favored winter trekking courses in Korea. Several roundish mountain peaks are connected to the smooth ridge of Baekdu Daegan, or the Great White Head Ridge, forming the spine of the Korean peninsula. Hence trekking, not mountain climbing, is the most accessible option. Anyone equipped with an outfit and equipment against biting winter cold and stormy blizzards can take on the challenge without much difficulty. Photo Gallery 28 | 2928 Foreigner's View 30 | 3130

Dongji, More Than Just a Short Day

Text by Dr. David E. Shaffer | Associate Professor of the Department of English Language, College of Foreign Languages, Chosun University, Gwangju. Photos by Topic.com & Goodimage

The more mystery an event is shrouded the age of the person it was being served 1. Red bean porridge was the most important food in, the more it is observed. So it was to. Still today one is said to become a eaten on Dongji. with Dongji in early Korea. Why did the year older if they eat a bowl of Dongji sun hide behind the mountains for so porridge – and children can become one long? Why did the moon guard such a year older for each bowl of porridge long winter night? Without the concept they consume. of an earth revolving around the sun and spinning on a tilted axis, the longest Becoming a year older is most night of the year was viewed with commonly thought of as occurring with awe – an act of the supernatural. The the beginning of the new year. The winter solstice, Dongji, was revered and association of age with Dongji porridge celebrated in magnificent fashion. Some derives from the fact that for some of these observances live on today in eight hundred years in ancient Korea, this modern, scientific world. Dongji was considered to be the first day of the new year – the day the sun Dongji Porridge began to restore itself and the hours of daylight became longer. Later, with a To many with a Korean background, the change in the new year’s day, Dongji word Dongji immediately conjures up became known as Ase, the “secondary” 2. Dongguk sesigi (Seasonal thoughts of porridge – Dongji patjuk, or Customs of Korea) con- or “little” New Year’s. tains a record about tra- simply, Dongjijuk, the red ditional Korean customs porridge still quite commonly eaten on observed on Dongji. Dongji Porridge Rituals Dongji day (December 21 this year). The porridge is made of ground adzuki Dongji porridge was not merely eaten on beans to which small, round glutinous Dongji day; it was intertwined as part of dumplings are added. For the ritual associated with the celebration. sweetening, honey was customarily Before being placed on the dining table, used. The number of dumplings, Dongji porridge has customarily had call saealsim (“bird egg yolks”) or a number of ceremonious duties to ongseoraemi, placed in each bowl of perform. The first was to serve as an

1 porridge is said to have been equal to offering in the ancestral rites held on 2 Foreigner's View 32 | 3332

Dongji. A bowl of the red porridge was in an area behind the house, as an Jeolla area, it was thought that the closer 5. Red beans and dumplings called saealsim are major also placed in each room of the house, offering to the Dongji Grandmother, the red porridge was in color to that of ingredients of Dongji as well as in the barn, the grain storage and a ritual offering was made to the horse’s blood, the better for the health porridge. shed, and the soy and kimchi storage village guardian spirit. In the South and well being of the horses in one’s area to appease the spirits Gyeongsang area, after ancestral stable during the coming year. And in services, devotion was paid to Seongju, the North Gyeongsang area, scattered Bowls of Dongji porridge were also the guardian spirit of the house, and to porridge was said to symbolize the 5 strewn on the walls of rooms and over Jowang, the guardian spirit in charge of blood of the White Horse, Baekma, 3 doorsills, often with a spoon, but in the all fortune and misfortune associated a mythical creature possessed with cinnamon, pine nuts, sugar, and Chungcheong and Jeolla areas, pine with the kitchen. Dongji porridge supernatural powers, which could 3. A charm for chasing off added for flavoring. These foods are still evil spirits. branches were used as pine is one of usually played a central role in these thereby ward off disease and misfortune common in Korea today, many of them in the coming year. the ten symbols of longevity. The red offerings. throughout the year. porridge was then scattered around Dongji Porridge Legend Dongji Foods the soy and kimchi storage area and Dongji in the Royal Palace throughout the courtyard, as well as The profuse use of red adzuki bean Dongji was more than just one day In Korea’s royal palace, Dongji and the splattered on the main gate of the house, porridge on Dongju day is said to have of the year; it was associated with the Lunar New Year were once considered all in the hope that this would keep the derived from the misfortune of a father entire month. Dongji day, the winter to be the two most important holidays of evil spirits away in the coming year and in ancient China. According to the solstice, falls in the eleventh month of the year. Dongji, or Ase, was celebrated thus bring good fortune. legend, the man was named Kung Kung the lunar calendar, which was known with a large hoeryeyeon banquet that (“Gong Gong,” in Korean, which is very as Dongjitdal, “the month of Dongji.” was attended by the king, the crown In some areas, porridge was splashed similar to the modern pronunciation of At this time of year, mandarin oranges prince, and court officials. During the on the roads and footpaths of the the word for “bean,” kong). This father and other fruits produced on Jeju Island Joseon period, royal envoys dispatched neighborhood, and around the large, had a simple-minded son, who happened were presented to the royal palace. annually to Ming China, and later to ceremonial village tree. It was believed to die on Dongji day and transformed Some of these fruit were offered in a Ching China, were called “Dongji that herein dwelt the guardian spirit of into the evil spirit of epidemic disease. ritual in front of the royal tablets before emissaries,” Dongjisa, because they the entire village, to whom homage was As a boy, this spirit had hated red adzuki being distributed to palace officials in were generally sent on or near the winter to be paid. In North Jeolla areas, rope beans, and because he died on Dongji, celebration of Dongji day. solstice. These emissaries carried with braided backwards was wound around the custom of cooking red bean porridge them Korean specialty products such as the trunk of the old village zelkova on this day is said to have developed to Cold soup, , is ginseng, tiger skins, otter furs, floral- tree and Dongji porridge offered to the drive away this evil spirit who dreaded generally eaten in the hot period of patterned rush mats, ramie cloth, silk, tree spirit. In the North Gyeongsang adzuki beans. summer, but in the and and gold to be presented to the Chinese area, a bowl of red porridge was placed Gaeseong areas, it was eaten in the cold royal court. Chinese gifts of thanks on one of the soy jars, usually stored The use of Dongji porridge, however, of the Dongji season. These noodles were presented in return. This exchange 4. A painting depicts a vil- likely predates this legend, as it has long were made of flour, and continued for hundreds of years, until lage scene on Dongji. been used in the hopes of warding off white radish or cabbage was added the end of the nineteenth century – the evil spirits and preventing the onset of to the . Another cold end of the Joseon dynasty, the end of an misfortune due to such spirits’ reputed dish popular at this time of year was era and the beginning of a drastically fear of the color red. More likely than . This was made of white different one that lead to radical being due to a disdain for beans, evil radish and cabbage in a pickled liquid of changes in the politics, economy, life, 7 spirits’ supposed fear of red porridge mainly water. A favorite cold drink was customs, and observances on the Korean arises from its redness being associated sujeonggwa. This was made of dried peninsula. 4 with blood. Accordingly, in the South persimmons added to hot water, with Korean Heritage in the World 34 | 3534

Changdeokgung, the Most Korean Palace, and China’s Forbidden City

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Goodimage & Simong Agency

Pre-modern Korea and China were Changdeokgung, Korea’s Most 1,2. Changdeok Palace is blanketed in snow. ruled by the kings of one dynasty Original Palace after another. Each dynasty built The five royal palaces of the royal palaces demonstrating their Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) are consummate architectural technology Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and aesthetic standards. Among these, Changgyeonggung, Gyeonghuigung, Korea’s Changdeok Palace and China’s and Deoksugung (or Gyeongungung). Forbidden City are regarded as the All located in the old city center of epitome of their respective palatial Seoul, they represent Korea’s ancient architecture. Both have been inscribed palatial architecture. on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

1 2 Korean Heritage in the World 36 | 3736

3. Pavilions in Changdeok Palace, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, are laid out asymmetrically along different axes.

3 5

Changdeok Palace was built in 1405, Palace are laid out asymmetrically departure from the norm of East wooden structures, the palace is said to 5. Major pavilions of the Forbidden City are sym- during the reign of Taejong, the third in horizontal schemes. External Asian palace architecture, which was have 9,999 rooms. metrically situated along ruler, and is second in age to Gyeongbok landscaping and gardening also display heavily influenced by Chinese palace north-south axes. Palace, the main palace of Joseon. It intricate designs to smoothly adapt to architecture. It probably reflects the All of the buildings in the palace are was also called Donggwol, meaning the natural topography, without making indigenous sentiment of Korean people, situated along north-south axes. The the “eastern palace.” While Gyeongbok artificial attempts. This is one reason who dislike being confined to formality. palace is divided into outer and inner Palace stands on broad flat land, why Changdeok Palace, not Gyeongbok courts. The former was used for major Changdeok Palace is nestled amid rather Palace, was named a UNESCO World state events and ceremonies, and the narrow hilly terrain. Therefore, unlike Heritage site in 1997. Central Axis and Strict Symmetry latter for residence of the emperor Gyeongbok Palace or the Forbidden The Forbidden City in Beijing was and his family as well as for day-to- City, where major halls and pavilions Harmony with Surrounding Nature the residence of 24 Chinese emperors day affairs of state. The outer court are situated along a north-south axis in from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) occupies the southern section of the 4. Donhwamun is the main Changdeok Palace was built on rolling 6. Tiananmen is the main symmetrical arrangements, buildings of palace complex, approached through gate of Changdeok Palace terrain at the foot of Mt. Maebong, an through the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). gate of the Forbidden City in Seoul. the outer and inner courts in Changdeok the Meridian Gate from the city outside. in Beijing. eastern ridge that formed the northern Its construction began in 1406, when boundary of the old city, stretching Yongle Emperor of the Ming Dynasty down from Mt. . Hence it was moved the capital back to Beijing from imperative that the ground plan of the Nanjing, and was completed in 1420, palace meld with the contours of its mobilizing one million military and mountainous backdrop. This is a unique civilian workers over 14 years. It is a feature that distinguishes Korea’s magnificent imperial residence covering traditional architecture from those of 720,000 square meters, a rectangle its immediate neighbors, China and measuring 1,000 meters from north Japan. For example, the main gate of to south and 760 meters from east to Changdeok Palace is at the southwestern west. The palace is enclosed by walls corner of the palace grounds, not on 10 meters tall and 3 kilometers long. 4 the southern meridian. This is a radical The world’s largest collection of ancient 6 Korean Heritage in the World 38 | 3938

7. The walls and pavilions 9. The Hall of Supreme of Nakseonjae, the House Harmony, the main hall of of Joy and Goodness, in the Forbidden City. Changdeok Palace.

107 7 9

Past another gate named the Gate of of Literary Glory. The inner court, East Asian royal palaces share important and social milieu of the respective eras, Supreme Harmony, the area has the separated from the outer court by an common features. Most notably, they which influenced other architectural palace’s three most important structures oblong courtyard and accessed through were built in the center of the capital, structures directly and indirectly. This the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall the Gate of Heavenly Purity, has another with major halls and pavilions laid is why the palaces constitute important of Central Harmony and the Hall of set of three halls. They are the Palace out vertically along north-south axes. cultural heritage deserving careful Preserving Harmony. They are lined of Heavenly Purity, the Hall of Union Although it deviated from this time- preservation as sources of research and up back to back from south to north and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, honored norm, Changdeok Palace inspiration for future generations. on a three-tiered white marble terrace. situated along another north-south axis. adopted the principle of “three gates On either side in the front are the Hall Many smaller buildings are clustered on and three courts,” which is seen in the of Military Eminence and the Hall both sides. Forbidden City. Unlike the Forbidden City, however, this Korean palace 8. A chimney in the court of Inscribed on the UNESCO World 10. A bronze lion guards the Nakseonjae. has green spaces dotting its hilly Gate of Supreme Har- Heritage List in 1987, the Forbidden compound and lacks lavish sculptural mony leading into the City is also known as the Palace main compound of the ornamentation. Forbidden City, where Museum. Architecturally, the palace has the Hall of Supreme a few distinctive features. First, the three Harmony stands. During the dynastic periods, palaces most important halls are situated along were not only the residences of kings the central north-south axis, with other or emperors and their families, but structures arranged symmetrically on functioned as the supreme headquarters either side. The three major halls stand of state administration. A sprawling on a three-tiered marble terrace and complex of buildings and courtyards other buildings are on lower platforms. inhabited by a large number of people, Courtyards of varying sizes separate the palaces were miniature cities. different groups of buildings. The halls Architecturally and aesthetically, they are large and gorgeously decorated in manifested the highest standards of arts vivid colors. 8 and technology representing the cultural 10 Similarities and Differences Intangible Heritage 40 | 4140

Korean dance is believed to have 1. A mural in the Tomb of the Dancers originated from the ceremonies (Muyongchong) of the Dance in Korean Culture conducted to worship heaven in ancient Goguryeo Kingdom, loca- tion in Jilin, northeastern tribal states. People young and old, both China, is among the Arts of Dynamism amid Stillness men and women, gathered to praise earliest extant historical sources on . heaven with joyous singing and dancing and to increase unity and solidarity 2. The Dance of Cheoyong Text by Park Jae-hu | Professor, Department of Dance, Cheongju University was believed to have the among each other. As time passed, power to scare off evil Photos by National Research Institute of Culture Heritage Korean dance became an integral spirits. It was designated Korea’s Important Intan- element of cultural development and the gible Cultural Heritage arts. In particular, it embodied Koreans’ No. 39 in 1971, and placed on the UNESCO spirit and lifestyle. Hence the unique Representative List of vocabulary and characteristics of Korean the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity dance, distinctive from even those of in 2009. neighboring Asian nations.

2 Korean dance is, above all, into artless movements without forced characterized by smooth curvilinear attempts. Fourth, Korean dance abounds movements emanating from the gentle in joyfulness (heung) and ecstatic hearts of people. Korea has mild excitement (sinmyeong) stemming from weather with four seasons, with its the inner resilience of Korean people natural environment also typified by who have learned through their lives gentle curves of mountains and fields, how to endure sorrow and turn it into which have influenced the inner world joy. of people that is reflected in their dance. Second, Korean dance has developed Korean dance span many forms, as an introversive form of expression, which may be largely classified into focusing more on spiritual than physical two genres ― court dances performed aspects, in contrast to Western dances 1 1 in the royal palace and folk dances generally emphasizing extroversive enjoyed by the general populace. These expression through dynamic linear two genres represent Korean dance motions of the lower body. In traditional artistically as well as philosophically. A nation’s culture is created as an Restrained but Powerful Body Korean dance, inner expressions are Folk dances are further divided into extension of the history and life of its Movements visualized as restrained movements, people, expressed in the here and now. ceremonial dances, entertaining dances, Among the diverse genres of Korea’s often described as dynamism amid Individuality and creativity are essential new dances combining traditional and traditional arts representing the nation’s stillness, or stillness amid dynamism. qualities of culture. A civilized people foreign elements, and creative dances cultural identity, dancing crystallizes In other words, emotion is condensed should be able to carry on its unique choreographed to express the thoughts the spirit and soul of the Korean people internally before it is translated into cultural identity and successfully build and emotions of individual artists. rooted in their long history. It also is a motion. Hence it obtains greater energy upon it in step with changing times. valuable cultural legacy of the Korean containing indefinite possibilities of Court Dances people awakening their sense of identity transformation. Third, Korean dance is and pride. natural as it sublimates inner feelings With3 their basic concept and purpose Intangible Heritage 42 | 4342

3. Fan dance was performed though in small scale, as members of the in traditional villages. Dancing together, 5. B-boy dancing is a major at palace ceremonies genre of Korean pop and banquets during the Yi Royal Household Music Department, villagers encouraged cooperation for culture enjoying a global Joseon Dynasty. which was reorganized into the National farm work, increased enjoyment of popularity Classical Music Institute after liberation, games and solidarity among individuals, the predecessor of the present-day and prayed for the peace and prosperity National Gugak [Korean Music] Center. of their community. Therefore, folk dances are mostly group dances with Court dances are characterized by strong regional character. They are elegant and mysterious movements typically rich in spontaneous expression accompanied by instrumental music and of personal feelings, very often hymns, which explain their meaning. humorous and satirical. Folk dances The movements are extremely restrained continued to develop into a vital aspect and refined, with the expression of communal life in villages across the of personal emotions repressed to country. 5

3 emphasize dignity. Costumes are in bright colors symbolizing yin and yang, Amid the fast changing lifestyles in Korean dance constitutes a valuable defined during the Three Kingdoms and the five elements or the five phases modern society, however, folk dances cultural legacy which has been passed period (first century A.D.-B.C. seventh of the universe, derived from ancient have gradually lost their age-old down from generation to generation of century), court dances were called Oriental philosophy. The dancers’ hands role in the community and become Koreans over many centuries. It needs jeongjae, meaning “consecration are covered with long, extended sleeves. stage performances. Among the most continued attention and care as well as of talent” to the monarchy and the renowned folk dances that continue to expertise of professional dancers and royal family. Many palace events, Some 50 kinds of court dances have be performed nowadays is a women’s researchers to preserve and develop this 6. Ganggang Sullae, a 4. Farmers’ dance is part women’s round dance, of the Namsadang Nori, including ceremonies and banquets, been handed down to today. They round dance called “Ganggang Sullae” precious heritage so it can be enjoyed was designated Korea’s a popular repertoire of required dance performances along include the “Dance of Cheoyong” (Important Intangible Cultural Heritage and appreciated by future generations. Important Intangible vagabond entertainers, Cultural Heritage No. 8 in designated Korea’s with ritual music. Court dances became (Cheoyongmu, Important Intangible No. 8), which has been placed on the 1966, and placed on the Important Intangible increasingly diverse and active during Cultural Heritage No. 39), which UNESCO Representative List, as well UNESCO Representative Cultural Heritage No. 3 in List of the Intangible 1966, and placed on the the Goryeo (918-1392) and Joseon has been placed on the UNESCO as a variety of regional mask dances and Cultural Heritage of Hu- UNESCO Representative (1392-1910) periods. After Japan’s Representative List of the Intangible music played by farmers. manity in 2009. List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hu- annexation of Korea, former court Cultural Heritage of Humanity; “Dance manity in 2009. dancers continued their activities, of Nightingales” (Chunaengmu); “Drum Dance” (Mugo); “Ball Throwing Dance” (Pogurak); and “Dance of Cranes on Lotus Throne” (Hak yeonhwadae hapseolmu, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 40).

Folk Dances With their origins in the popular lifestyles and seasonal customs of the majority of people, folk dances were spontaneously created and performed for 4 communal rites and collective activities 6 44 |

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Cultural Heritage Administration, 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4797 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr

Published | December 15, 2012

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Director of International Affairs Division management

Content | Lee Yae-na, Park Jung-eun, Kim Min-ok coordination Translation | Lee Kyong-hee

Proofreading | Ted Chan

Design ∙ Editing | Graphickorea Co., Ltd Printed by | Graphickorea Co., Ltd

Cultural Heritage Administration, 2012

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